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CONTENTS

JUNE 2017 | VOLUME 185, NUMBER 6

FEATURES 10 The World of Beauty on Display at Cosmoprof North America 2017

The digital path to purchase, experiential retail, going green and packing it all up. BY DANIELA CIOCAN

14 Skin Care Trends Drive Hair Care Growth

Migrating anti-aging and anti-pollution claims, new formats and a focus on scalp care can recharge the segment; plus: 2016 global market values by region. BY HANNAH SYMONS

18 U.S. Hair Care: New Growth, New Benefits The rise of skin care-inspired claims, more targeted products and rapid innovation are changing the hair care space.

22 5 Things to Know about the Beauty Care Market in the Middle East and Africa

Despite economic challenges, the region boars strong growth leaders and has enticed new investments from both global multinationals and local players.

26 Choosing the Right Beauty Care Manufacturer

Selecting a manufacturer depends on the brand’s in-house expertise, its goals, packaging needs and other considerations. BY ADA POLLA

30 Emerging Beauty

By thinking local, brands can capture growth in newer, dynamic markets. BY LISA DOYLE

36 Awareness, Education and Conversion: Your Digital Marketing Ecosystem

How to maintain an ongoing dialogue with your consumer. BY SHERI L. KOETTING

40 Bringing LED Devices Home

Jessica Abrams, director of product development for Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare, outlines the development process and consumer trends behind the SpectraLite EyeCare Pro LED Device.

46 Clairol’s Latest Launches Go Bold, With No Regrets

Heather Carruthers, VP, global and U.S. marketing, Clairol, discusses the brand’s latest launches. 2 Contents Global Cosmetic Industry | June 2017

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CONTENTS 30

EDITORIAL

Director Editor in Chief Research Analyst Assistant Editors

Digital/Social Media Editor

Jo-El M. Grossman Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com Nicole Urbanowicz | 1-630-344-6053/nurbanowicz@allured.com Jennifer Novoseletsky | 1-630-344-6045/jnovoseletsky@allured.com Savannah Saunders | ssaunders@allured.com Brooke Schleehauf | 1-630-344-6032/bschleehauf@allured.com Lisa Schryver | 1-630-344-6068/lschryver@allured.com Audrey Latimer | 1-630-344-6067/alatimer@allured.com

ADVERTISING SALES Business Development Manager Kim Jednachowski | 1-630-344-6054/kjednachowski@allured.com Business Development Manager Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com Fragrance Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT Marketing Specialist Marie Galvan Marketing Specialist Alyssa Derby Customer Service 1-888-399-0899/customerservice@gcimagazine.com

DESIGN Graphic Design Manager Senior Graphic Designer Production Manager

DEPARTMENTS 6 Spark: 5 Things Hair Care Is Learning from Makeup and Skin Care

Lisa Hede Hon Bannapradist Bryan Crowe

CORPORATE Partner & President Partner & CEO Controller Digital Products Director Executive Assistant

Janet Ludwig George Fox Linda Getner Rose Southard Maria Romero

BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

8 Markets & Trends 40 Skin/Sun/Anti-aging 46 Hair 52 Makeup 54 Bath/Body/Fragrance

RESOURCES 55 Products & Services Showcase 56 Advertiser Index

Digital Edition Exclusive

OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS Allured Business Media 1-630-653-2155 • fax 1-630-653-2192 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA www.Allured.com

Alluredbooks Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit Skin Inc. magazine Face & Body Midwest Spa Expo and Conference Face & Body Northern California Spa Expo and Conference Face & Body Southeast Spa Expo and Conference Perfumer & Flavorist magazine World Perfumery Congress Flavorcon

Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.GCImagazine.com/subscribe In the US, telephone: 1-888-399-0899, Outside the US, telephone: 1-847-559-7557 (9 AM–5 PM Central, Mon-Fri) | Fax: 1-847-291-4816 E-mail: customerservice@gcimagazine.com Print subscriptions: Available free to qualified individuals located in the United States. All other countries may subscribe to the digital edition. Periodicals Postage paid at Carol Stream, Illinois, and additional mailing offices. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective. Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published eleven times per year as Jan., Feb., March, April, May, June, July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403 USA. Copyright 2017. Free subscriptions to Global Cosmetic Industry are available to qualified individuals. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Replacement issues are available only through single copy sales. Single copies: $20; GCI Directory Issue: $35 (Add $10 per order shipped to Canada; add $15 per order to all other countries.) Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream IL 60188 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Global Cosmetic Industry, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.

Inside the CVS Beauty Makeover Turn to Page DE1 of your digital June edition BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

@GCI_Magazine

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Members of the American Business Media. All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA. Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documents referred to within or affiliated with this publication. www.GCImagazine.com

4 Contents Global Cosmetic Industry | June 2017

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SPARK

| BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

5 Things Hair Care Is Learning from Makeup and Skin Care

H JEB GLEASON-ALLURED Editor in Chief jallured@allured.com @GCI_Magazine

GLOBAL COSMETIC INDUSTRY MAGAZINE EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD ALISA MARIE BEYER Coastal Salt & Soul

MARIE ALICE DIBON Alice Communications, Inc.

ADA POLLA Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group

ART RICH, Ph.D. A. Rich Development

RICK RUFFOLO R4 Innovations

CRISTINA SAMUELS Mode Cosmetics

LAURA SETZFAND Epiphany

air care doesn’t always get the same headlines as skin care and makeup, but the category is taking some lessons from these two high-profile segments. In addition to providing global and U.S. hair care market figures (Page 17 and 18, respectively) and offering insights from Clairol’s vice president of global and U.S. marketing, Heather Carruthers (Page 46), this month’s issue provides some insights and examples of how the category is evolving.

1. Multifunctionality Like skin care and makeup bridge products, hair care brands are finding that multiple benefits within one product can appeal to consumers seeking fewer steps in their beauty care routines.

2. New claims Want to know how hair care claims will evolve? Keep an eye on skin care. As skin care adopts emerging claims such as anti-pollution and IR defense, hair care has taken notice.

3. Situational beauty As noted in a recent Kantar* report, situational care that changes with the occasion or season can allow consumers to get the right result for the right moment, as seen with Clairol’s Color Crave Hair Makeup, a washable hair color product that allows consumers to achieve on-trend looks without the commitment of permanent color for festivals, birthdays and other special occasions. Situational hair care could also include lines designed for specific seasons or life stages.

4. Scalp care is skin care Consumers and brands are increasingly bracing the notion that healthy scalps equal healthy hair. From special serums to exfoliating shampoos and UV-defense products, scalp care is entering a skin care-inspired renaissance.

5. Multicultural matters

Just as makeup brands both large and small have broadened their skin tone options, traditionally “ethnic” and mainstream brands alike have modified their marketing strategies to embrace textured hair consumers of every background. While the move promises growth for some brands, marketers must beware of alienating their core consumers (Page 48). We hope you enjoy this months’ issue. We’ll see you in July.

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*www.kantarworldpanel.com

6 Spark Global Cosmetic Industry | June 2017

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MARKETS & TRENDS Consumers by the Numbers During in-cosmetics Global in London, Lia Neophytou, associate analyst with GlobalData.com, presented some key statistics behind millennials’ mindsets and motivations.

Social Media and Appearance • 64% of millennials believe that being active on social media is important • 87% find their looks and appearance in general to be important • 60% desire to stand out from the crowd

New Product Discovery on Social Media • 59% find new experiences more exciting than new products • 63% are more likely to trust blogger and user reviews over brand claims • 39% of 18–34-year-olds are interested in, but not yet purchasing, beauty products/trends depicted on popular social media channels (compared to 22% global average) • 67% of millennials are intrigued by the idea of co-creating products with brands Neophytou noted that social media can influence offline innovation. For instance, clown contouring led

to rainbow makeup palettes, while L’Oréal’s Feria Smokey Pastel hair colors were inspired by Instagram posts. As a result, brands have secured blogger endorsements and co-created products, as with Kendall Jenner’s Estée Edit collection and Kylie Jenner’s Kylie Cosmetics brand. How important is this? According to Neophytou, Kylie Cosmetics has about 12.5 million followers on Instagram, compared to MAC’s 14.5 million.

a b b ( d a p ( a g

Beauty = Wellness • 89% of millennials consider eating healthily important for wellness • 34% exercise several times a week, creating opportunities for beauty care brand innovations such as Sweat Cosmetics, Birchbox’s Arrow brand and products such as Shiseido’s Sports BB Broad Spectrum SPF 50+ WetForce • 56% of millennials believe that beauty and grooming products can help them achieve a natural appearance; this is about accentuating features, rather than masking them (ex: Milk Makeup and Glossier’s simple beauty products)

Smarter Beauty • 69% of millennials are interested in smartphone-connected tools and devices in their grooming routines

L’Oreal’s Feria Smokey Pastel hair colors were inspired by Instagram posts.

to deliver made-for-me solutions (ex: HiMirror Plus, Keratase Hair Coach and Color Me Automatic Foundation Applicator)

Male Beauty Growing According to Neophytou’s data: • 72% of millennial men believe their looks and are important • 44% have been made more selfconscious of their appearance due to social media n

Millennial Beauty: Natural & Easy According to a recent Mintel analysis (www.mintel.com), 71% of millennial consumers are likely to wear a natural makeup look, with 59% claiming to spend 20 minutes or less on their regular beauty routine; 18% say their beauty routine consists of four steps or less. The products that have benefited most from this trend are: • Eyebrow pencils: 46% of women aged 22-39 use one daily (up 9% since 2011)

• Mascara: 79% use mascara, compared to 73% five years ago • Lip care products: 77% use these products today, compared to 73% in 2011 “Women of all ages are embracing their natural beauty, especially among America’s millennial generation who are using color cosmetics to enhance their features in order to look like the best version of themselves,” said Margi Nanninga, beauty and personal

care analyst at Mintel. “Brands have an opportunity to promote themes of self-expression and embracing natural beauty in product marketing in order to reach this active and engaged consumer market. Short beauty routines underscore that millennials are strapped for time and emphasize efficiency, highlighting the importance of products that can be applied quickly and easily, as well as those that can multitask.” n

8 Markets & Trends Global Cosmetic Industry | June 2017

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How Mass & Premium Beauty Are Growing The premium beauty sector will contribute an additional $20 billion in revenue to the industry by 2021, according to Irina Barbalova, global lead, beauty and personal care, Euromonitor International (www.euromonitor.com). In a presentation delivered during the 2017 in-cosmetics Global in London, she added that the global spend on premium beauty and personal care will grow 19% between 2016 and 2021 (faster than the rise of spend on luxury and health and wellness), totaling $127 billion. About 54% of this growth will come from the U.S. and Chinese markets.

KanS grew by 18.3% in 2016, placing it among one of the fastestgrowing premium beauty brands, according to Euromonitor data.

Other highlights included: • Mass color cosmetics posted a CAGR of 6.5% last year, but the premium category generated a CAGR of 8.6%, Euromonitor noted. • Premium skin care grew by 5.2% last year, compared to 4.6% for mass. • Premium hair care grew by 5.3% last year, compared to 3.5% for mass. The fastest-growing premium beauty brands, according to Euromonitor are: • Smashbox (19.9%) • Bulldog (19.2%) • KanS (18.3%)

Euromonitor outlined regional growth as follows: • Latin America: 9.2% • Africa and the Middle East: 8.7% • Eastern Europe: 6.8% • Asia Pacific: 5.2% • Oceania: 4.6% • North America (excluding Mexico): 4% • Western Europe: 1.8% Notable high-growth countries included: • Egypt: 16.6% • Bangladesh: 13.3% • Indonesia: 10.6% n

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Markets & Trends 9

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MARKETS & TRENDS

The World of Beauty on Display at Cosmoprof North America 2017 | BY DANIELA CIOCAN, Marketing Director Americas, Cosmoprof

osmoprof North America (CPNA), taking place at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas, Nevada, July 9–11, 2017, prides itself on being the only trade show of its kind to feature more than 1,100 exhibiting companies covering all facets of the industry under one roof. While that number may seem daunting, small up-and-coming brands have a strong voice and stand out in the carefully crafted special areas throughout the show. Whether introducing new special areas or offering leading educational sessions, the event is full of trend directional initiatives, including the following.

The Digital Path to Purchase There are two extremes in retailing today, one where technology rules and the other where the human touch is at the forefront. Sephora is a great example of a retailer that has successfully incorporated technology into its business. This goes beyond traditional e-commerce methods to instore experiences. Through the ModiFace-powered Sephora Virtual Artist applications, consumers use interactive mirrors to try on a plethora of makeup shades, access tutorials from leading online influencers and much more. MatchCo, on the other hand, uses its digital prowess to customize makeup. Users download the company’s app and take images of various parts of their skin. MatchCo scans and analyzes these images to create custom blends of foundation that are unique to each user.

During a CPNA conference session titled “Beauty + Tech = A Beautiful Marriage,” the founder and CEOs of MatchCo and ModiFace will join the industry manager of Kline Group’s consumer products practice to discuss the best non-intrusive ways to use technology to help move more products and connect with consumers. Moderated by WWD’s Critical Mass reporter, Faye Brookman, attendees can expect to gain key learnings from these leaders.

“One of the biggest challenges, especially in stores without service, has been finding the right shade,” said Brookman. “Too often, women get home and are disappointed, which reflects poorly on the brand and the store. Technology is answering the need, offering easy ways to see beauty looks. And while it may seem [the technology] would take customers out stores, it is more of a discovery that still drives shoppers to physical stores for purchase.”

10 Markets & Trends Global Cosmetic Industry | June 2017

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Jeb Gleason-Allured, Global Cosmetic Industry’s editor in chief, will moderate a session, “Disruptive Beauty,” which will focus on the underlying consumer and tech trends driving the latest market innovations and their future implications. Attendees will hear from Google, which will address beauty trends derived from its data, as well as executives from Madison Reed and HiMirror. Gleason-Allured explained, “Silicon Valley-style thinking is reshaping the beauty industry with an increased focus on innovation, the consumer experience and all-mighty data.”

Experiential Beauty Retail While it’s no surprise that technology has changed the beauty landscape, traditional brick-and-mortar outlets have had to evolve to draw consumers offline and into the store. For almost

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Ron Robinson has led his namesake beauty boutiques with great success by drawing in visitors with engaging events, including complimentary Yoga Saturdays (pictured).

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MARKETS & TRENDS

40 years, Ron Robinson has led his namesake beauty boutiques with great success and a loyal following. Robinson cleverly combines fashion, art and culture into the fiber of his business— creating a community around his stores and drawing in visitors with engaging events, from complimentary Yoga Saturdays to book signings and artist receptions. “Our events and various gatherings are not new for us; we have been doing this for years,” said Robinson.

“They are only a small part of the overall connection that we make to our customers. For years we have been involved as a social and community connection. Ultimately, the product we offer and the service we provide needs to speak to our customers, it has to be consistent and honest.” While these events help drive traffic, it’s critical that the retailer maintain a reputation for providing chic, new brands his consumers have come to rely on. Helping fill his beauty line,

Robinson participates in CPNA’s Discover Beauty Buyer program, along with more than a dozen other leading national retailers. Featuring hidden gems from across the globe, the Discover Beauty special area offers participating buyers the opportunity to meet one-on-one with pre-selected, upand-coming beauty brands on display. “Finding unique and interesting product is part of our ongoing ethos,” said Robinson. “We look for these in places that we have learned from experience will be productive for our time investment. I have found several items, gained inspiration and ideas and made great networking contacts from the special Discover Beauty program at CPNA. That’s why I continue to return.”

Going Green

The Discover Green area of CPNA features more than 40 companies from around the world.

While some retailers and brands are innovating with technology, others are taking the lead by going back to their roots—literally. Green beauty products, focused on delivering clean, natural solutions, is quickly becoming one of the hottest product categories, and the cosmetics industry is delivering! There are a multitude of stores and brands vying to provide solutions to a more discerning, health-conscious and fickle clientele—people who are asking tough questions, expect transparent answers and know they have lots of choices. “What Women Want from Naturals,” a conference track moderated by Mary Bemis of Insider’s Guide to Spas, will provide insights and data on the market opportunities, as well as legal implications. The track will include expertise from green retailer The Detox Market to the founder of a vegan luxury cosmetics company Intelligent Nutrient. These trends can be viewed in action in the Discover Green area of CPNA, which features more than 40 companies from around the world. These carefully selected brands had to adhere to a checklist of both innovation and compliance on ingredients. To see the full 2017 lineup, visit: http:// cosmoprofnorthamerica.com/

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Green Leaf exhibitors, visit: http:// cosmoprofnorthamerica.com/ exhibition/special-areas/discovergreen-leaf/. “Our market is growing up so fast, and our consumers are becoming so sophisticated that it’s really important to be able to gather the cutting-edge companies in the very best venue,” said Mary Bemis, curator of Discover Green and Discover Green Leaf. “At CPNA, Verescence [formerly SGD] will display a wide range of stock bottles and personalization techniques (colors, shapes and decoration) that can transform La Collection bottles and jars into customized creations,” said Sheherazade Chamlou of Verescence.

exhibition/special-areas/discover-green/. CPNA is also launching a new special area, Discover Green Leaf, which will bring qualified spa and specialty retail buyers face-toface with pre-selected companies. Participating specialty retail and distribution companies include The Detox Market, Pharmaca, Sprouts, Universal Companies and VIP. com, which will take part alongside multiple chain spas such as Auberge, American Leisure, Destination Hotels, Milk & Honey Spa, and Sego Lily Spa. For the lineup of Discover

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Packing it All Up Whether focused on green beauty or online appeal, one thing all brands have in common is a fundamental need to identify the right formulation and package to stand out on store shelves or online. To that end, CPNA has introduced a new special area, Discover Pack, as well as several education sessions to help take business owners from concept to creation. Discover Pack will feature pre-selected brands such as Albea, Chromavis Group, East Hill Industries, Naturich Labs Inc., Pennelli Faro, So Pack and Verescence. Participating brands will enjoy exposure in the high-end, dedicated space and benefit from one-on-one meetings with key U.S. and international buyers who are seeking innovative packaging and formulation solutions.

“At CPNA, Verescence [formerly SGD] will display a wide range of stock bottles and personalization techniques (colors, shapes and decoration) that can transform La Collection bottles and jars into customized creations,” said Sheherazade Chamlou of Verescence. “Participating for the first time in the highly coveted Cosmoprof Las Vegas exhibition, we look forward to reconnecting with major distributors and brands on the West Coast.” Attendees can also hear from high-profile companies and media outlets, which will address topics to assist product developers in creating compelling products. From consumer trends like whimsical design and product packaging innovation to connected packaging and omnichannel successes, CPNA has created 10 packaging focused sessions. To see the full conference lineup, visit: http:// cosmoprofnorthamerica.com/category/ packaging/. From online to on-shelf, CPNA provides all beauty pros a chance to discover and be discovered. Welcoming more than 33,000 attendees, the 2017 event promises to not disappoint and will allow visitors to see these trends and more come to life. n

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HAIR CARE FOCUS

Skin Care Trends Drive Hair Care Growth Migrating anti-aging and anti-pollution claims, new formats and a focus on scalp care can recharge the segment; plus: global market values by region.

• In 2016, overall hair care grew by a healthy 4% to $72 billion. • Growth has come from skin careinspired concepts, including scalp care and anti-aging products.

| BY HANNAH SYMONS, Beauty and Personal Care Analyst, Euromonitor

• In the future, sustainable and gentle hair care solutions will create new opportunities for brands facing skeptical consumers.

@GCI_Magazine

14 Hair Care Focus

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Global Cosmetic Industry | June 2017

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n anti-grooming movement has swept across the west, pioneered on the one hand by the ethically minded and, on the other, by a snubbing of conventional grooming expectations. This movement has enveloped nations that strategically prop up the hair care market. The global sprawl of deep-seated hair care usage, however, is giving rise to favorable regional diversity and a throng of growth pockets. In 2016, overall hair care grew by a healthy 4% to $72 billion, bookended by 9% value growth in the Middle East and Africa, and 0.2% in Western Europe. (For global market figures, see F-3.) So with recovery somewhat in the offing, how can a healthy growth trajectory be sustained?

Skin Care Trends for Hair When it comes to trade-offs between a lower price and specific product features, consumers exhibit similar attitudes toward skin care as they do hair, making an undeniable case for the replication of skin care trends in hair. For example, hair masks are in a strong position to benefit from the growth momentum of facial masks. Realizing value growth highs of 4% in 2016, face masks bucked the

F-1.

Gently Does It Parallels with skin care cannot be drawn without reference to the natural narrative, which is aiding sector growth as healthier priorities lead consumers to overhaul their bathroom cabinet. Globally, premium hair care’s plight has been abetted by the desire for milder and sustainable formulations, which come at a price; the segment continued to trend ahead of mass in 2016 with 5.3% and 3.5% value growth, respectively. Long-established claims such as “free from” continue to be covetable in markets such as Asia Pacific, evident in the 104% value growth in 2016 of Malaysian brand See Young, which won the domestic popularity race for its premium range of silicon-free hair care. An Eastern influence is tangible in mature regions too, breathing new life into the core shampoo market.

Balding is a concern for 10–20% of male consumers across all generations. In both Western Europe and North America in 2016, shampoo built on the disappointment of the previous year, recording respective 1.5% and 3.7% value growth rates, respectively. A barrage of novel claims such as probiotic and gluten-free have had a hand in this success, migrating from food labels to skin care jars and, eventually, to hair care bottles. For example, U.S.-based Mother Dirt markets a shampoo that is certified for compatibility with the skin’s natural microbiome, along with Illumai, which works on the premise of “preserving the healthy biome provided by Mother Nature.”

Euromonitor International Beauty Survey—Hair Care vs. Skin Care Path to Purchase Selection: Trade Offs vs. Lower Price

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stagnancy in skin care in Western Europe, pointing to a lucrative loophole for hair masks. More than 50% of respondents to a Euromonitor survey expressed a preference for proven efficacy over a lower price, spelling further good news for mask formats, which often command a higher price tag compared to conventional products (F-1).

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HAIR CARE FOCUS

U.S.-based Mother Dirt markets a shampoo that is certified for compatibility with the skin’s natural microbiome.

Innovations rooted in Ayuverdic medicine are poised to gain traction as well, originating from unlikely beauty trend-setter India. Whilst the majority of brands on the market at present have a skin and body focus, including Arya Essentials and Jiva Apoha, the opportunities for hair care remain abundant.

Anti-aging Hair Care for the Young The differences between hair and skin lie in age. While consumers start to pay particular attention to skin care in their 30s, hair care is more a younger generation’s arena. Even hair loss treatments show a higher ratio of daily use among under-30s, compared to any other age group, according to

Euromonitor International’s Beauty Survey (F-2). Hair loss treatments have immense untapped potential, with one in five male consumers in the 45–49 age group reporting hair loss concerns; balding is a concern for 10–20% of male consumers among all generations. For example, hair loss treatments are providing some respite for the floundering Japanese hair care market, growing healthily at 4% in 2016, as the wider industry suffers at the hands of an aging population. There is scope to breathe new life into the wider hair routine from the perspective of age, focusing on preventative benefits to engage those crucial young consumers. Personal care routines typically minimize

In 2016, overall hair care grew by a healthy 4% to $72 billion, bookended by 9% value growth in the Middle East and Africa, and 0.2% in Western Europe. with age, which is working to Japan’s disadvantage, but anti-aging hair care innovations for the young could encourage more extensive regimes. Inevitably, then, new product development needs to appeal to a younger demographic, as hair loss concerns are higher among this more image-conscious age group, unlike anti-aging skin care, where the most frequent users lie in the 40–49 age bracket. In the wider hair care sphere, antiaging hair care ranges are multiplying, utilizing familiar ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, antioxidants, amino acids and retinol, including Living Proof’s Timeless Pre-Shampoo Treatment and the Alterna Caviar Anti-Aging Bodybuilding Conditioner.

F-2. Euromonitor International Beauty Survey: Application of Hair Loss Treatments—one to two times

per week (2016)

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F-3. Global hair care market values, 2016 Living Proofâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Timeless Pre-Shampoo Treatment (pictured) and the Alterna Caviar Anti-Aging Bodybuilding Conditioner signal a pivot in hair care toward anti-aging claims.

(source: Euromonitor International)

Geographies Asia Pacific

2016 22.6

Eastern Europe

3.6

Latin America

11.8

Middle East and Africa

5.5

North America

13.9

Western Europe

13.8

Research Sources: Beauty and Personal Care: Euromonitor from trade sources/national statistics

This is a potentially risky punt on age segmentation, considering that a fresh dialogue in anti-aging is getting louder, one that shuns negatively-laden language in favor of more neutral and targeted labels such as hydrating.

Note: Historic regional/global values are the aggregation of local currency country data at current prices converted into the common currency using fixed exchange rates; www.euromonitor.com.

Opportunities for the Next Generation A mindful generation need not spell trouble for hair care. Instead, a newfound consciousness should be viewed as an opportunity for the development of sustainable and gentler product alternatives to conventional launches that can uphold the frequency and length of current regimes. By the same token, concerns about aging, water scarcity and other issues could lengthen hair care routines by prompting consumers to add additional steps and products, including anti-aging treatments and styling agents that help them achieve a perpetual just-washed finish. n

HANNAH SYMONS is an industry analyst at the Euromonitor International Beauty Desk. In he r current position she is responsible for publishing research studies related to corporate strategies, market entries, competitive intelligence and opportunity analysis in the global beauty and personal care industry. Symons has a particular interest in fragrances, hair care, color cosmetics and digital influencers in beauty. Prior to Euromonitor, she worked in Merchandising at Molton Brown London and as a blogger community manager in Hong Kong. Hannah holds a BA in English (European) from the University of Leeds. www.GCImagazine.com

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Hair Care Focusâ&#x20AC;&#x192;â&#x20AC;&#x192; 17

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HAIR CARE FOCUS

U.S. HAIR CARE: NEW GROWTH, NEW BENEFITS The rise of skin care-inspired claims, more targeted products and rapid innovation are changing the hair care space.

• The premise of “healthy scalp, healthy hair” has led to a range of new product innovations in the hair care space. • Today’s baby boomer embraces an “aging well” philosophy that leverages one’s natural looks and hair care products that gracefully engage the passing of time. • In response to rising R&D needs, as well as concerns over speedto-market, a number of beauty and personal care suppliers have instituted new collaboration models to accelerate their clients’ innovation.

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Problem-solving Shampoos

ccording to figures from Kline Group’s Cosmetics & Toiletries USA report, the value of the U.S. hair care market was about $13 billion at the retail level, up 0.6% from 2015. For a breakdown by product category, see F-1.

Shampoos recorded a solid performance in 2016, Aslanian noted. Shampoos that offered targeted treatments for specific hair care needs drove the category, with marketing claims like volumizing, thickening, color protection and preservation. Double-digit growth Indie brands such was also recorded by as Not Your Mother’s offer products for niche, independent specific hair types, brands, such as Not with problemYour Mother’s, which solving solutions. offers products for specific hair types, with problemsolving solutions.

Multicultural Hair Care on the Rise According to Naira Aslanian, project manager, Kline Consumer Products, multicultural hair care has recorded the highest growth among all categories in 2016. Brands such as SheaMoisture continued to record solid performances due to their natural positioning and their mission to help all consumers with textured hair to manage their curls. Following the rise and triumph of indie brands that offer products for consumers of all races and ethnicities, conventional brands have increased and expanded their product portfolios to include a broader spectrum of consumers.

F-1.

Hair Coloring Thrives Online Even though the box coloring and mass market coloring segment recorded a decline in 2016, Aslanian identified a rise of online companies such as eSalon and Madison Reed,

U.S. hair care market breakdown by product category; total value: $13 billion (2016)* Multicultural/ethnic hair care

Hair coloring products

14%

Shampoos

34%

20% Hair styling products and sprays

24% Conditioners

*Source: Cosmetics & Toiletries USA; http://www2.klinegroup.com/cosmetics

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HAIR CARE FOCUS

treatments and hair masks, Jindal explained.

Something Extra

When StriVectin entered the hair care space with products such as the Ultimate Restore range, it signaled an uptick in claims migrating from the skin care space to hair care.

which offer personalized, salon-quality colors to consumers.

Scalp Care on the Rise Beauty mashups are all the rage, with products such as anti-pollution makeup driving new innovation in the beauty space—and hair care is no exception. Leading the way are a wide array of skin care-inspired breakthroughs that are expanding the range of claims across product categories. The premise of “healthy scalp, healthy hair” has led to a range of new product innovations in the hair care space. For instance, when StriVectin entered the hair care space with products such as the Ultimate Restore range—comprising a shampoo, conditioner, Deep Repair Mask and Densifying Foaming Treatment—it signaled an uptick in claims migrating from the skin care space to hair care. Sarah Jindal, senior innovation and insights analyst, beauty and personal care, Mintel, recently told Global Cosmetic Industry that StriVectin leveraged its skin care technology for scalp care to address thinning and lost hair, as well as other hair care needs. Another example is the Clear brand, which focuses on scalp care. Its range includes Extreme Damage Relief Shampoo, which comprises ceramides and keratin to support scalp barrier strength and prevent hair breakage, the Hydration Fix range, which includes aloe and marine botanicals for moisture and shine, as well as the Color & Heat Conqueror

Shampoo, which contains antioxidantrich botanical extracts to promote the scalp’s moisture barrier. Scalp care has been a boon for exfoliating hair care products as well, including Briogeo Scalp Revival Charcoal + Coconut Oil Microexfoliating Shampoo, Christophe Robin Cleansing Mask With Lemon, Mustela Foam Shampoo For Newborns and Keranique Micro-Exfoliating Follicle Revitalizing Mask. While scalp care products such as massaging and exfoliating solutions are widely embraced in Asia, an increased focus on this critical skinhair intersection is taking hold in the west, with launches such as Verb Bring Your Own Verb Dry Shampoo, DevaCurl Buildup Buster Micellar Water Cleansing Serum, Christophe Robin Cleansing Purifying Scrub with Sea Salt and Rahua Color Full Hair Mask. These products highlight a wider increase in rinse-off hair

A rising number of styling products are incorporating additional benefits, such as color protection, anti-aging, hair loss prevention or antipollution defense, as seen with Amika’s The Shield Style Extending Spray.

In addition, a rising number of styling products are incorporating additional benefits, such as nourishment, color protection, anti-aging, thickening, anti-hair fall or anti-pollution defense. Recent examples include Amika’s The Shield Style Extending Spray, Moroccanoil’s Hydrating Styling Cream and Phyto’s PhytoSpecific Moisturizing Styling Cream.

Hair Care for Everyone

W w

Traditionally, beauty and personal care consumers have responded to getting older by using products that mask the signs aging, including antiaging skin care and hair coloring solutions. But Jindal explained that today’s baby boomer knows that they’re not going to be 25 again and instead are embracing an “aging well” philosophy that leverages one’s natural looks and beauty care products to more gracefully engage the passing of time. For instance, many consumers no longer attempt to mask gray hairs. One high-profile brand, White Hot Hair, offers hair care for older consumers with white and gray hair. The products are formulated for specific texture changes related to age. White Hot Hair’s range includes the smoothing and brightening Brilliant Shampoo, which includes blue lupin extracts for diminished dullness and yellow tones, as well as Croda’s Keravis hair strengthener; the Glorious Shampoo, which combats the dulling caused by environmental pollutants and moisturizes with white truffle; and the styling Shooshing Crème, which comprises white truffle and is formulated for short hair that requires greater volume, texture and definition. As highlighted by White Hot, brands are increasingly aware that one product cannot fill every consumer’s needs. In hair care, this includes products formulated for specific life stages. According to Theresa Yee,

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White Hot Hair offers hair care for older consumers with white and gray hair.

monitor the condition of their skin and hair in real time. Famously, Yee noted, Kérastase recently partnered with Withings to unveil the world’s first-ever smart hairbrush. The Kerastase Hair Coach Powered by Withings and its accompanying smartphone app are intended to help consumers prevent aggressive hair brushing—which often leads to damage, breakage and split ends—by using sensors built in to the hairbrush to inform users of the state of their hair and how they should be taking care of it.

Rapid Innovation senior editor for beauty at WGSN Fashion, brands will focus products on different hair types, seasonal and weather conditions, etc. Yee added that skin care brands such as GeneU have taken personalized products to the DNA level, a trend which could eventually manifest in the hair space.

High Tech Hair As biome-friendly brands and genetic testing concepts proliferate in the market, at-home solutions are becoming increasingly sophisticated. Yee noted that, in the era of fitness and health trackers, it’s not far-fetched to assume that consumers will want to

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Trends are all well and good, but executing on emerging opportunities is a significant challenge for brands of every scale. In response to rising R&D needs, as well as concerns over speedto-market, a number of beauty and personal care suppliers have instituted new collaboration models to accelerate their clients’ innovation. For instance, following the merger of the Dow Corning silicones business into Dow, the company has launched LabSense, which combines its scientific, ingredient and market insight resources to assist customers in speeding up product development in markets around the globe. According to Stéphanie Sandrock-

Beunat, global strategic marketing leader, skin care, for The Dow Chemical Company, the combined business bring together specialized and sensorial ingredients, including rheology modifiers, silicones and conditioning agents. Dow’s market intelligence has tracked a number of trends, including multifunctional and sensorial products, anti-aging claims, longlasting performance and more. In the “natural hair” space, Dow has created demo formulations comprising organic and silicone ingredients that offer hydration, softness and control to textured hair, without diminishing natural waves. The company has also leveraged its silicone emulsifier for oil-in-water formulations such as facial lotions, sun care products and color cosmetics. Dow can also apply silicones to formulations to restore damaged hair, reduce combing force and protect against breakage. According to Sandrock-Beunat, the supplier has also developed applications for strong emerging categories like night hair masks, which can condition overnight and reduce frizz. As the market has shown, consumers are seeking new claims and individualized solutions, even as suppliers and brands move faster to address them. n

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REGIONAL FOCUS

Things to Know about the Beauty Care Market in the Middle East and Africa

• While the wider Middle East and Africa market is challenged, key local markets, including Pakistan and Egypt, are driving rapid growth. • Multinational players, including Amazon and Unilever, have established greater footholds in the region, signalling faith in future growth. • Meanwhile, local brands, which are attuned to local needs, continue to emerge.

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Regional Focus

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For ma brands manuf Africa

Despite economic challenges, the region boasts strong growth leaders and has enticed new investments from both global multinationals and local players.

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e 1.

It’s Big

According to Euromonitor International (www.euromonitor.com), the beauty and personal care industry’s retail value in the Middle East and Africa totaled $29.9 billion in 2016.

For many multinational beauty and personal care brands, Dubai is often a gateway market and manufacturing hub for the larger Middle East and Africa region, but it’s far from the only growth area.

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The Middle East Is Challenged, but Opportunities Remain

For L’Oréal, the Middle East and Africa were the weakest among new markets in the first quarter of 2017. The company reported that sales in the region were down 18.8% on a like-forlike basis, and down 16.3% based on reported figures. The company noted that petroleum-dependent Saudi Arabia continues to slow. In reporting its latest results, Estée Lauder noted that the Europe, Middle East and Africa (EMEA) regions collectively reported a net sales gain of 13% in constant currency, with a 30% rise in global travel retail. However, the Middle East and Turkey continued to represent economic difficulties, according to the company. Excluding the Middle East, the total EMEA region grew 15%. In the Middle East, Estée Lauder reported declines in inventory tied to weaker retail traffic. The negative sales trend is expected to ease somewhat, according to the company. Despite these challenges, there remain growth opportunities in the region. For instance, L’Oréal reported continued growth in Pakistan and Egypt. In addition, L’Oréal Luxe performed particularly well in the Middle East. And countries such as Iran continue to see demand for hair and skin care, fragrances, eye makeup, nail polish and prestige beauty, according to the

organizers of Iran Beauty & Clean.* In fact, the country’s beauty care market is poised to be worth $5 billion this year.

Amazon Is Staking a Claim

Multinationals Are Investing Locally

Recently, Amazon purchased the largest Middle Eastern online retailer, Souq.com, for a reported $650 million (according to CNN). Souq. com currently carries about 2,200 beauty products, including SKUs from Clinique, Lancome, Philips, Calvin Klein, e.l.f, Shiseido and Joelle Paris. The 12-year-old retailer boasts more than 45 million site visits each month and has operations in the United Arab Emirates, the troubled market of Saudi Arabia and the booming market of Egypt. Leveraging its technology and expertise, Amazon is betting on taking Souq.com to the next level.

Unilever, which, along with Beiersdorf and L’Oréal, is among the top personal care players in the Middle East and Africa, recently opened a new 100,000-square-meter factory in Dubai in order to stamp its regional products with “Made in the UAE.” The facility will produce 500 million products, totaling 100,000 tons of liquid product each year, with 80% of the goods exported to the broader EMEA region. Brands that will be manufactured at the site include Dove, Fair & Lovely, Lifebuoy, Vaseline, Clear, TRESemme and Sunsilk. Meanwhile, K-beauty giant Amorepacific has launched a play for the Middle Eastern market via a deal *www.cosmoprof.com/iran-beauty-clean/

Regional Focus

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REGIONAL FOCUS

Amorepacific will open the first Dubai Etude House store in the second half of 2017.

with retailer Alshaya Group. As part of the agreement, Amorepacific will open the first Dubai Etude House store in the second half of 2017. Citing forecasts that the Middle Eastern cosmetics market would grow at a CAGR of 15% through 2020, totaling $36 billion, Amorepacific is hoping to tap into a “rich and diverse demographic including local Emiratis, transit travelers, tourists and expatriate workers,” who are seeking fragrance and color makeup. The Dubai expansion is expected to be the gateway market to the Middle East for Amorepacific, which established a fully owned subsidiary, Amorepacific ME FZ LLC, in 2016. Following the initial Etude House opening in Dubai, Amorepacific will launch further locations in Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, UAE, Qatar, Bahrain and Oman.

Beauty by and for Africans is Emerging

Multinationals are responding to changing local consumer needs in Africa, while local players are launching brands built with local insight and evident pride in the continent’s rich resources. L’Oréal East Africa’s Dark and Lovely brand recently launched its Au Naturale natural care range to meet emerging demands for less invasive hair products. The range includes a Super Quench Leave-In Spray, Soak It Up Oil Cocktail, Lock It In Sealing Cream, Sulfate-Free Shampoil Shampoo, Deep Conditioning Delight Haircare, Easy Twist Gel N’ Butter and Anti-Shrinkage 10 in 1 Styles Gelee, and Knot Out Conditioner. The products focus on natural ingredients

such as coconut and mango oil, bamboo milk, jojoba and peppermint. Local brands have already tapped into the natural hair demand. For instance, Kenya’s Marini Naturals has introduced products such as Curl

L’Oréal East Africa’s Dark and Lovely brand recently launched its Au Naturale natural care range to meet emerging demands for less invasive hair products.

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Uganda’s Amagara offers skin care comprising natural botanical extracts, including shea butter, avocado oil, cucumber, carrot, vanilla and papaya.

Magic! curling gel, which comprises flaxseed and promises to “bring out your natural God-given curls,” and Goodbye Tangles! leave-in conditioner and detangler, which is formulated to ease the combability of natural hair. In body and skin care, Kenya’s Keyara Organics declares itself “authentically African,” with ingredients sourced from the continent, including Moroccan argan oil, Ghanaian cocoa butter, Ugandan shea butter, Kenyan coconut oil and South African marula oil. The brand’s products include Shea & Mango Body Butter and Shea & Aloe Hair Food. Uganda’s Amagara offers skin care comprising natural botanical extracts,

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including shea butter, avocado oil, cucumber, carrot, vanilla and papaya. The brand’s range includes Papaya Body Butter, Carrot Body Butter, Cucumber Body Butter, Mango Hand Lotion, Watermelon Hand Wash, Lemon Hand Wash and Peppermint Shower Gel. In color, Kenya’s Pauline Cosmetics offers lip sticks in shades like Red Wine, Marvel, Revel and Royal Diva; face powders in shades such as Cocoa and Sahara; and eye shadows in shades such as Smoky Eye and Natural Radiance. SuzieBeauty Ltd., meanwhile, was launched in 2011 by Suzie Wokabi, who received makeup artist training at MAC Cosmetics in Los Angeles and held roles in fashion and beauty from

SuzieBeauty offers products for the face, lips and eyes, as well as brushes—all targeted to the darkskinned African woman and the Kenyan climate.

Kenya-based ElsaKim has introduced colors with playful names, including Turquoise Away.

2001 to 2007, when she returned to her hometown of Nairobi. SuzieBeauty offers products for the face, lips and eyes, as well as brushes—all targeted to the dark-skinned African woman and the Kenyan climate, according to the brand. The brand has now begun distribution beyond Kenya. Finally, ElsaKim, which claims, “Durability to the external factors and shine creates a permanent and breath taking results on nails,” has introduced colors with playful names, including My Warm Plummy Heart, Turquoise Away, Sugar Coat Rose, Daisy Sweet Corn and Strawberry Cream or Me? n

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BEST PRACTICES

Choosing the Right Beauty Care Manufacturer Selecting a manufacturer depends on the brand’s in-house expertise, its goals, packaging needs and other considerations.

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ou have crafted your brand story, and you have the idea for the next best-selling product in the market—but how does this concept go from being an idea in your head to a product on your consumer’s bathroom shelf?

To Private Label or Not to Private Label That is the question. The answer will very much depend on the expertise you have available to you. If your team has chemistry and pharmacology expertise, it is recommended that you create your own formulations. This builds value in your business in the form of intellectual property, and ensures that your product formulation will be different from everything else on the market. The downside is that this process can be challenging, lengthy and onerous. Creating a formulation from scratch will involve much testing, tweaking, and reformulating until you have something you like. Stability testing will be necessary once you have finalized the formulation, which will add to your launch timeline and costs. If your team does not have the knowledge to create formulations, working with a turn-key manufacturer and selecting formulations based on a menu of options will be the easier way of proceeding. This is called private labeling. The benefits to you is that the entire process is easier and quicker than creating a formulation from scratch. The downside is that you do not own your intellectual property, and that you are limited in your choices by the menu that your manufacturer has to offer.

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| BY ADA POLLA, Alchimie Forever

The Third Way The hybrid option is often the path taken by niche brands. This may be viable if you have specific ideas about what you want your formulation to be, do not want to do private label, yet do not have a team of chemists and pharmacologists in-house. This path requires a more involved partnership with your manufacturer, who also becomes your R&D lab. Hence, the importance of selecting the right manufacturing partner.

What to Look for in a Manufacturer In 2013, when Alchemy Forever decided to switch its manufacturing from Switzerland to the United States, we interviewed a number of potential

It is extremely important that the manufacturer operate an R&D lab, as many issues can come up when formulating and manufacturing, especially when utilizing ‘natural’based ingredients.

DEFINING YOUR BRAND STORY “I have found crafting a brand story that resonates with the consumer, sets it up for success and differentiates it from the millions of competitors to be the biggest challenge in brand development. Here are some the lessons I learned along the way.” Read more in the March edition of Global Cosmetic Industry. www.gcimagazine.com/magazine/pastissues/2017/march

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BEST PRACTICES

manufacturing labs. Our criteria were as follows: • Certifications held • Upfront formulating commitment/ cost • Minimum order size • Sourcing of raw material • Storage of bulk product for multiple fills • Expertise in sunscreen formulation and regulations • Packaging restraints • Where products can be found (NDAs prevent the identification of brands) • R&D expertise • Location F-1 details the feedback our interviewing project yielded. In a recent conversation with Gogi Sangha, CEO and president of G.S. Cosmeceuticals (Livermore, CA), I found that his perspective mirrored

ours when it comes to manufacturing criteria. When asked about the top concerns that a brand should consider when picking a manufacturer, Sangha replied: 1. “That the manufacturer has historical knowledge and experience with the type of products that the client is looking to manufacture.” 2. “That the manufacturer operates under a nondisclosure and confidentiality agreement.” 3. “That the manufacturer is a cGMP facility (follows current good manufacturing practices).” 4. “That the manufacturer has a robust quality department.” 5. “That the manufacturer has sizeable R&D support, and technical transfer capabilities.” 6. “That the manufacturer has the capacity and willingness to grow with customer.”

Sangha added, “It is extremely important that the manufacturer operate an R&D lab, as many issues can come up when formulating and manufacturing, especially when utilizing ‘natural’-based ingredients. An R&D chemist has an intimate and higher understanding of the chemistry behind the raw material, processing and formula itself; this knowledge is pertinent when developing any new formulation.”

A True Partnership What does Sangha look for in a potential customer/partner? “That they have a marketing plan for the brand, that the brand is properly financed and has a good understanding of the types of products and raw materials they want to use in their formulas,” he explained. The relationship between and brand and its manufacturer becomes a true partnership, a bit like a marriage,

F-1. Private label manufacturer assessment chart (data: 2013)

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with ups and downs and easier times and harder times. The key is for the foundation of the relationship to be based on trust, common interests, and respect for each other’s expertise. Switching manufacturers is very challenging—even if you own your formulations—so picking the right one the first time will save headaches, heartaches and dollars.

Selecting Packaging Partners Selecting packaging is another essential part of bringing your product from concept to reality. For most smaller brands, stock packaging will be the fiscally responsible strategy. Custom-made packaging, while more unique and offering more options and choices, is often prohibitively expensive. When selecting a packaging supplier, Alchimie Forever looks at: • Responsiveness of team • Quality of product offering • Breadth of product offering • Minimum order size • Printing options (silk screen, etc.) • Sourcing options: made in China, made in USA, made of recycled materials, etc. The best resources when looking for packaging suppliers are tradeshows.

Don’t Scrimp on Legal Last but not least, following our industry’s regulatory guidelines is key. This means that there is one more

Make sure that your manufacturing partner meets all of your criteria.

partner in the process of evolving a product from an idea to a physical reality: a lawyer. As a bootstrapped company, Alchimie Forever has always paid attention to costs and budgets. However, our FDA legal expert was one area where the company decided not to over-economize. We chose someone with significant FDA experience and who works in a large law firm. This was still less expensive than the alternative. Our expert continues to advise us on labelling, claims, INCI listings and new regulations in the industry. The sunscreen regulation in particular has continually evolved in the last few years, and is particularly tricky to keep current on. An additional resource to consider is the ICMAD “A Simplified Guide to

LET’S HAVE A CONVERSATION This marks the second of a series of article that I will be writing for Global Cosmetic Industry magazine this year on what it takes to build a beauty brand. The ﬁrst of the series covered crafting your brand’s story. Throughout the rest of the year, I will cover topics ranging from distribution to ﬁnancing. I will be sharing my own experience in building Alchimie Forever, my family’s Swiss skin care brand, and I will be reaching out to my network of other beauty brand owners, advisers, and professionals in the industry to share their expertise. I look forward to your feedback, and welcome comments and questions at ada@alchimie-forever.com.

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Cosmetic Labeling.”* While this is not an alternative to legal counsel, this guide provides valuable information on the topic. Keep in mind as well that different countries will have different regulations. If you plan on selling your products in Europe, for instance, speaking with an expert on European regulations and REACH will be necessary.

A Collective Effort Dreaming up a product and creating a brand story that will resonate with the customer is just the start of any project. Transforming that dream and story into a reality involves a number of partners, ranging from manufacturers to suppliers to lawyers. Being able to find and work with these partners requires a budget and financing—which will be explored in the third article in this series. n *www.icmad.org

ADA POLLA (ada@alchimie-forever. com) is the co-creator of the Swiss antioxidant skin care line, Alchimie Forever, which launched in the U.S. in 2004. Her strategic focus and implementation have yielded double-digit annual revenue growth for the company. Polla holds an MBA from Georgetown University, majored in art history and political science at Harvard University, and graduated magna cum laude with a Bachelor of Arts degree in 1999. She is also a Global Cosmetic Industry editorial advisor. Best Practices

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BEAUTY BREAKTHROUGHS

“Our objective is to take into account cultural references while creating unique brand experiences,” said Clarins’ Isabel Martins; photo courtesy of Clarins.

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EMERGING

BEAUTY By thinking local, brands can capture growth in newer, dynamic markets. | BY LISA DOYLE

s the economy continues to globalize, so does the beauty and personal care market. Rising urbanization and incomes, increased access to the internet and social media, and other factors are reshaping purchasing habits across virtually every corner of the globe. “All emerging regions have been growing quickly these last few years,” explained Isabel Martins, international marketing manager, emerging and export markets, at Clarins Group. “Consumer demand in beauty is growing strongly thanks to dynamic economic development and rising disposable incomes.” While cultural identities must be taken into account in every market, one thing remains the same: responding to the needs and trends of the region is of the utmost importance. According to our experts, here are some of the key elements to watch as these regions’ market growth continues to accelerate. www.GCImagazine.com

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BEAUTY BREAKTHROUGHS

Women Powering the Middle East

Two thirds of Chinese beauty care launches were offered at a mass price point of less than RMB 100 (approximately $15).

As societal changes begin to sway market preferences in the Middle East, the beauty industry would be wise to take note. Fortune recently noted that the female workforce in Saudi Arabia has grown by more than 48% since 2010, and women are on track to soon outnumber men in the nation’s universities. Thus, Reportlinker.com anticipates that the country’s makeup market will grow at a CAGR of more than 11% between 2017–2022, due to not only the increased amount of consumers seeking work-appropriate looks, but also thanks to the increasing availability of cosmetics through online and brick-and-mortar retailers. These trends are not only unique to makeup, as skin care is on the rise as well. “We experienced double digit growth in most of the markets in the Middle East, where

One of Clarins’ top sellers in the Middle East is Mission Perfection, which addresses pigmentation, discoloration and overall redness in the skin.

we decided to open a subsidiary in 2013,” said Martins, who noted that among the region’s best-sellers is Mission Perfection, which addresses pigmentation, discoloration and overall redness in the skin. These trends are not limited to the wealthiest countries in the region. Martins explained, “In the Middle East, Iran is now opening up and showing its full potential. Turkey remains a major growth engine in Western Europe.”

Asia Pacific: the New Beauty Leader The female workforce in Saudi Arabia has grown by more than 48% since 2010, and women are on track to soon outnumber men in the nation’s universities.

By 2020, the swiftly emerging middle classes in China and India will propel Asia Pacific into the top spot among global color cosmetics markets, according to forecasts from Euromonitora. Jin Zhang, principal of Asia Wisdom, agreed: “China and India are always the biggest growth opportunities for brands in this region. Color cosmetics are growing, and so are foundations. There’s been a lot of innovation in the past few years.” Much of this growth is due to launches from within Asia, rather than brands entering from an outside market. According to Mintelb data, more than 50% of new lip color www.euromonitor.com www.mintel.com

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HALAL COSMETICS ON THE RISE

Much of Asia’s beauty care growth is due to launches from within the region, including brands such as Chando and Herborist.

offerings in 2015–2016 were from Chinese brands, such as Chando and Herborist. Moreover, two thirds of these launches were offered at a mass price point of less than RMB 100 (approximately $15). This does not mean the Chinese market is impenetrable, by any means, but that paying attention to local markets within any country is key. “Our catalogue being very rich, we are now able to personalize beauty routines to customers’ needs despite the diversity of emerging markets,” said Martins, noting that Clarins’ top sellers in Asia include White Plus, a super-whitening range of skin care, and Shaping Facial Lift, which focuses on contouring the natural roundness of the face. Staying focused on consumer preferences behooves a brand looking to enter the Indian beauty market. Many Indian consumers keep an emphasis on tried-and-true Ayurvedic beauty, and outside brands are wise to take this into account when entering the market. In Avon offers the Indian addition to its full market a range of line of traditionally products, including Western products, its Avon Naturals Avon also offers the Ayurvedic Whitening Cream. Indian market the www.GCImagazine.com

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Economic growth in markets such as Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia, paired with significant Muslim populations and product certification bodies such as Jabatan Kemajuan Islam Malaysia, will drive significant growth in the halal cosmetics sector. According to Grand View Research*, the halal cosmetics market worldwide will expand to $52.02 billion by 2025. Notable halal beauty care brands include Ivy Beauty, Amara Cosmetics, Clara International, Sampure, Mirror & Makeup London and OnePure Brands such as SimplySiti made Malaysia a leading market in halal personal care and beauty launches. “Countries such as Malaysia and Indonesia together accounted for nearly 60% of the Asia Pacific revenue in 2015,” according to the analysis, led by the skin care and makeup categories. Malaysia accounted for more halal personal care and beauty launches, compared to the United Kingdom and the Philippines, largely due to local brands such as SimplySiti and Ivy Beauty. Despite the dominance in Asia Pacific, halal beauty is spreading to markets such as the United Kingdom. There, the Asda grocery chain stocks a private label line of halal skin care and cleansing products. The retailer will also launch an Eid Gift range, comprising male and female cosmetics. n *www.grandviewresearch.com

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BEAUTY BREAKTHROUGHS

EMERGING MARKETS LOOK TO LICENSING

By 2020, the swiftly emerging middle classes in China and India will propel Asia Pacific into the top spot among global color cosmetics markets.

One thing many emerging countries have in common? Youth. On average, they have a higher population of young people, compared to mature markets. Often, this translates to a market more interested in buying licensed products featuring celebrities and characters. Korean celebrities in particular are finding that licensed skin care has been a natural way for them to build their own brand. Actress Lee Young-ae launched her Lyanature organic skin care line in 2015, and has expanded to bath and shower products, a baby line, accessories and multiple retail outlets in upscale Seoul neighborhoods. Likewise, Ji-won Ha’s new J.One line of moisturizers and masks has been appealing to her fans in her home country, and is now attracting new devotees in the United States via Sephora and QVC. Ji-won Ha’s new J.One line of moisturizers and masks has According to Euromonitor’s Color Cosmetics Path to Purchase Beauty Survey, the eye makeup category in Thailand, China, Colom- been appealing to her fans in her home country, and is now bia, India and the Middle East are the most receptive to licensing. attracting new devotees in the We’ll keep a close watch on which celebrities come aboard. n U.S. via Sephora and QVC.

Avon Naturals Ayurvedic Whitening Cream, Ayurvedic Whitening 3-in-1 Cleanser and Herbal Bleach.

is headquartered in Mauritius’ BioPark and is developing new cosmetics ingredients from the local flora. Brands will want to keep an eye on the next emerging African nations as well. Martins noted, “In Africa, Nigeria has to be considered as a new opportunity. This market is stimulated by a young and fashion-conscious middle class population, and the demand for beauty, including skin care, is huge.”

Local Needs and Ingredients The whitening trend of Asia is comparable to the brightening trend in Africa—and a savvy brand will capitalize on both. “Our objective is to take into account cultural references while creating unique brand experiences,” said Martins. “All of our best-sellers in emerging markets have been created to adjust to customers’ habits and needs, while still offering the best natural plant extracts, a fantastic sensory experience and a proven efficacy.” In Africa, Bright Plus is a regional best-seller for Clarins, due to its success in brightening the complexion, while preventing and treating hyperpigmentation, dark spots and dull skin. In addition to brands conscientiously entering the market, the African market is building from within. Notably, indigenous crops are making their way into beauty on a larger scale. Argan oil, for instance, has benefited the Moroccan economy and global

Localizing Ideas In Africa, Bright Plus is a regional best-seller for Clarins, due to its success in brightening the complexion, while preventing and treating hyperpigmentation, dark spots and dull skin.

consumers for years, and now South Africa is following suit with locally grown rooibos in skin care. Rooibos’ zinc and alpha hydroxy acids and antioxidant properties make it a perfect addition to moisturizers and cleansers—in fact, Mintel states that South Africa claims 56% of the rooibos soap launches from the past five years. Elsewhere, firms such as Biolabex are leveraging indigenous ingredients for 21st century innovation. Biolabex

No matter which emerging market a brand enters, researching and truly understanding the end-user and keeping her as the primary focus will pay off in the long run. Zhang explained, “The beauty market is idea-driven. You can carry on with the same global architecture of your idea, but you need to bring this idea into the local market with relevance. You need to make sure to offer the ideas differently for each market.” n

LISA DOYLE was formerly the associate editor of Global Cosmetic Industry and is a freelance writer in the Chicago area. Her work has also appeared in Skin Inc., Salon Today, Modern Salon, Master Barber and Writer’s Digest.

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DIGITAL MARKETING MUSTS

Awareness, Education and Conversion: Your Digital Marketing Ecosystem How to maintain an ongoing dialogue with your consumer.

• Successful brands ensure consumers can find them via SEO, social media and infleuncer partnerships. • Once a brand has the consumer’s attention, it must tell them a compelling story, without overwhelming them with boring product details. • Once the consumer is ready to buy, the user experience must be tooled to make search and purchase as easy as possible.

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Digital Marketing Musts

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uccessful beauty brands are in constant dialogue with their followers, building new relationships while nurturing current ones. To achieve this, you need to create a fluid ecosystem of pathways that connect your social platforms, blog, emailers and print collateral. These all feed to your brand’s digital home, the website. If done successfully, this system provides entry points for both new and existing customers, allowing for the exchange of fun, valuable content, while leading to sales.

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| BY SHERI L. KOETTING, MSLK

From Stranger to Repeat Customer The process begins with awareness— gaining maximum exposure to the right people. Once you reach your audience, you need to entice and educate them with content that speaks directly to their needs and motivations. Those that see the value of your product offering will then be ready to buy your product on a conversion-friendly site. Brands with powerful digital ecosystems are able to turn strangers into followers, followers into customers

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and customers into repeat customers. There are many ways to do this at varying complexities and price-points. For brands looking to take their first steps, these methods are a good place to start.

4 Awareness Tools This stage is about building consumer consciousness of your brand.

1. Organic SEO and Authority Building The starting place for successful digital content is a smart SEO strategy, optimizing your content both on and off your website. On-site SEO is about properly placed keywords, which should be defined during the content planning stage. These phrases come directly out of your brand story and should represent the way your target customers search in their own natural language. Off-site SEO is about getting links to your site on prominent media sites, beauty and lifestyle sites, and blogs.

Instagram is an absolute must for beauty brands.

Write articles and look for places to engage with potential customers. Your efforts will enable your brand to get exposure to the followers on each of these sites, while raising your own site’s ranking.

Successful brands require a fluid ecosystem that connects social platforms, blogs, emailers, print collateral and websites.

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2. Social Media Command two or more platforms that align with your brand’s content. Focus on sites where your target audience will be most receptive to receiving information from you. Since beauty is so mood-driven, platforms that focus on imagery are always a best bet. Facebook is great for broad exposure. It is essential to include images or videos in your timeline posts, which statistically get the most engagement. Plan to use paid advertising and boost important posts, such as those related to a specific campaign. Set a budget and target a specific demographic to get your message to the most appropriate audience. In addition to posting on your timeline, you’ll want to engage with users in relevant groups. Participate in discussions, link to articles, and give free advice in an effort to get people to like your page. Instagram is an absolute must for beauty brands. The best way to tap into the community is to encourage fans to feature your product in their images. Most power-Instagram users want to be famous, so it’s a win-win! Getting your brand into their images exposes you to all of their followers. Digital Marketing Musts 37

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DIGITAL MARKETING MUSTS

Twitter is good for listening and building relationships with influencers and customers. Find trending hashtags that are most relevant and follow people that use this hashtag. As you start to build a network of followers, consider introducing a unique onbrand hashtag that your followers will want to adopt.

3. Influencer Marketing Again, social media should be used to tap into the power of influencers. Depending on your category, this may include stylists, doctors, health gurus and beauty advisors. If you can get them on board with your brand’s message, their loyal fans will follow along! Keep in mind this is a pay-to-play space, so be prudent. If your budget is tight, do a paid campaign for a short, concentrated duration in order to gain followers. Then you can engage and follow up, before repeating the same process.

4. Print Collateral, Sample Packs and In-Person Events Yes, this is an article about digital marketing, but don’t underestimate

the power of tangible promotions. If an idea or campaign has traction on digital, solidify it in print. Making something tangible naturally makes it more special and memorable. If done effectively, a printed piece or sample pack should serve as a reminder to go online later, driving consumers to your website with a clear call to action. Do your research to understand where your followers are likely to hang out, and get sample packs into those places. This may include relevant retailers, tradeshows, salons or spas. Consider Birchbox or other sampling/subscription boxes to reach a large network of beauty enthusiasts. Remember that this will be your first impression, so it’s important to include enough of the brand story that potential customers are enticed to learn more and go to your website. With a bit of science and creativity, using a combination of these methods is a sure way to get you found. You are reaching people in the places and platforms they go to regularly, where they will be most receptive your message. Without these promotional efforts, potential customers may never discover your brand.

Brands that offer valuable education are able to forge deeper, more loyal connections with their customers.

Education The education stage is about building interest and brand love. It starts with great content on your social platforms and continues on your website. Product education is the fuel to engage with your followers. And we’re not talking about long passages of boring copy that describe what your product does. Successful education is highly visual, interactive, fun and shareable. It comes in many forms, including get-the-look videos, product tips and tutorials, interviews with influencers, before-and-after stories, ingredient features, technology visualization—the opportunities are endless. The idea is to create informational and aspirational content that speaks directly to your customer’s pain-points and motivations. Education can also be less productcentric and focus on brand values. You can bring awareness to a related issue through a cause marketing initiative, or show a more authentic side by posting about your office/employee culture. Consider the flip side for a second. Brands without education struggle to find relevant things to say, resulting in reduced engagement. To overcompensate, they offer too many product promotions and discounts, leading customers to expect regular offers, which equates to lost revenue. In contrast, brands that offer valuable education are able to forge deeper, more loyal connections with their customers. Education should be sprinkled everywhere in the ecosystem. Content on your social platforms and emailers should be excerpts that tease more extensive content available on your website. More specifically, emailers are a great way to directly engage with customers on your mailing list, offering content and personalized tips that they may have missed during the week. To put your customers on the path toward conversion, be sure to display products alongside educational features. On your website, there are two places this can be done. On your

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blog or news pages, you can have an area with links to product pages, related to the content of your article. On individual product pages, this strategy should be done in reverse. Have educational excerpts such as ingredient features, clinical trials or brand ambassador endorsements. This content serves as validation, so visitors discovering a product for the first time won’t need to leave the product page to learn more.

Conversion This final stage is about making it so simple for customers to buy that they can’t resist. Once you’ve enticed your followers with great educational content, you have earned their trust and they will be in a purchasing state of mind. Now they should be led to pages where products are available for purchase.

Navigation and Features It is imperative to gain a good understanding of how your users search for information in the category, which informs the navigation and feature set. Some customers may search by benefit, while others may search by problem, step in the beauty regimen or ingredients. User tests can provide valuable insight before making crucial navigation decisions. Filtering on product landing pages should be tied to the size and variety within your product line. If you have a robust offering, having the right filters and sorting tools can make or break the experience. For smaller product lines, keep it simple; don’t over-scale with extra features that people won’t use. A good user experience connects visitors to the right product for their needs in the quickest possible way.

Individual Product Pages: Content + User Experience When users finally arrive on your individual product pages, you need to make it as easy as possible for the user www.GCImagazine.com

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to buy. This is accomplished through a delicate balance between having the right content on the page and good user experience. Individual product pages need to leave as little to the imagination as possible. In the digital world, users don’t have the luxury of being able to touch your product, so you need content that directly makes the case for the product. This should include: • Multiple views of the product with the ability to zoom. • Full transparency about what’s inside product. Be sure to repeat the full product description and ingredient list as text on the page. • Reviews and testimonials from customers. • Endorsements from brand ambassadors/influencers. • Social proof—social media feeds that showcase customer-generated content. • Clinical trials, if they are available or appropriate. • Key ingredients and proven benefits. • Third-party endorsements or seals, which could include beauty awards. Having this content serves as validation and prevents customers from leaving the product page to go elsewhere. Including the right content on the page is half the battle, however. The other half is about making smart design decisions for a seamless user experience. Space, color and typography should be used to clarify information and visually lead users to purchase areas. Indisputably, the most important call to action on the individual product page is the buy button. Color should be used to bring this to the top of the visual hierarchy so it is clearly distinguished from other secondary links on the page.

Turning Customers into Repeat Customers We’ve explored the journey of courting strangers and turning them

Some customers may search for products by benefit, while others may search by problem, step in the beauty regimen or ingredients.

into customers. However, the digital ecosystem is far from linear. At the same time, you should be using the touchpoints to engage with existing customers in order to turn them into repeat customers. To do this effectively, make sure the educational and fun content you are putting on social media caters to both new and repeat customers. Continually drive fresh content to your site in the news/blog section, so customers have a reason to come back. When customers return to your website, reordering and replenishment should be very easy. If they are logged in, their previous order should be no more than one click away.

Assess, Adjusts and Repeat Once you have built this system and used it for a period of time, remember to test and assess what is working and what isn’t. Make adjustments and test again. There is no one-size-fits-all solution. Brands that are able to be nimble and adapt, win. Your efforts will pay off with long-term growth. n

SHERI L. KOETTING is the co-founder and chief strategist of MSLK (http://mslk.com/brand-services), a marketing and design agency based in New York. MSLK specializes in helping beauty brands find their voice in today’s crowded marketplace through 360° brand positioning—from overall brand strategy to brand identity, packaging, retail experience, websites and social media campaigns. Contact: sheri@mslk.com. Digital Marketing Musts 39

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SKIN/SUN/ANTI-AGING Bringing LED Devices Home Jessica Abrams, director of product development for Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare, outlines the development process and consumer trends behind the SpectraLite EyeCare Pro LED Device.

he dermatology devices market is projected to grow from an estimated $8.66 billion in 2016 to $16.05 billion by 2022, according to data gathered by Scalar Market Research (www.scalarmarketresearch). The expansion of the market has created opportunities for athome devices, as seen with the widespread TV advertising centered on the Neutrogena Light Therapy Acne Mask.

The Eyes Have It Recently, Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare launched its SpectraLite EyeCare Pro LED Device for at-home use. Retailing for $159, the FDA-cleared anti-aging device provides professional-quality light therapy via 72 LEDs that comprise full-spectrum therapeutic light for the reduction of the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as the diminished appearance of dark under-eye circles. Each hands-free treatment takes about three minutes, satisfying consumers’ increasing demand for quick, convenient beauty solutions. The mask includes a USB charging cord and a detachable, adjustable head strap to accommodate various head and facial dimensions. Jessica Abrams, director of product development for Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare, recently told Global Cosmetic Industry that Dr. Gross derives insights from his clinics, where LED therapy is among the top treatments. According to Kline Group data (www.klinegroup.com), LED therapy is also the leading beauty technology used by consumers in the home. Yet, while most LED masks and devices focus on the whole face, Dr. Gross and Abrams identified an opportunity to focus on the eye area, where facial aging first begins to show.

Easy, Convenient and Effective Abrams and Dr. Gross knew the device they were developing needed to deliver convenience and efficacy in the home, while addressing the two main zones of eye area aging: crow’s feet and the 11s between the brows. Understanding that even the best technology can sometimes be cumbersome and unpleasant to use, Abrams and Dr. Gross also focused on the consumer experience. For instance, they knew that most current devices suffered from lengthy treatment times, often requiring the user to hold the device by hand and move it from treatment

In order for a mask to prove its worth, it must deliver results beyond those provided by topical products, explained Jessica Abrams, director of product development for Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare.

region to treatment region. Abrams explained that, for eyes, most devices often require three separate phases of each treatment: one for each eye and another for the 11s. Consumers also expect quick results, so Abrams and Dr. Gross selected four LED light wavelengths to simultaneously address various depths of the skin. The shallowest segment of the treatment can show cosmetic improvements in just a few weeks, while collagen builds up in the deeper layers of tissue over several months. Beyond the strap, which allows the mask to fit comfortably on faces of various sizes, the LED device comprises a silicone interior for maximum comfort. In addition, the mask dimensions were tweaked to ensure standard distance between the lights and the face.

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Meet the LED Device Consumer The ideal consumer for the LED mask is, of course, anyone looking to diminish the signs of aging around the eyes, but by creating a hands-free, single-phase, Instagrammable mask, Dr. Gross and Abrams tapped into the demands of older and younger consumers alike, as well as men. Abrams noted that while men buy just a portion of the brand’s masks, it is likely that women may be purchasing the mask for their husbands and boyfriends, or even share their masks with their significant others. While the SpectraLite EyeCare Pro LED Device is modestly priced relative to some other LED devices, the product still sits firmly in the prestige space. Higher-end consumers, who may also be clients of Dr. Gross’ clinics, might use the device for maintenance between treatments, while others may use the mask as a primary component of their at-home ritual, said Abrams.

The device must also offer convenience, Abrams reiterated. As a result, the LED mask offers a short treatment time, is wearable and is easily incorporated into consumers’ daily routines, helping to prevent product abandonment. Finally, she said, the LED mask has a “cool factor,” making it ideal for Instagram selfies.

Retail Rollout

Measuring Success In order for a mask to prove its worth, it must deliver results beyond those provided by topical products, said Abrams. In fact, she explained, the mask can actually enhance the penetration of the topicals used after LED treatment.

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The SpectraLite EyeCare Pro LED Device is designed for at-home use.

As of press time, the SpectraLite EyeCare Pro LED Device is exclusive to Sephora.com, but will eventually roll out to brick and mortar stores, the spa channel and global retailers.

What’s Next in Devices? While current product development focuses on efficacy, ease of use and prevention of device abandonment, Abrams explained that future iterations could prompt consumers regarding aspects of their beauty routines or even offer insights on products. She added that claims will become more powerful and that devices will promise ever-faster results. As wearable technology expands, other sectors could see activity, including in the hair health and regrowth areas. Devices may also become more directly tied to specific topicals, creating new synergies within treatments and new functionality, as well as opportunities for brands to drive product sales. n

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Cosmoprof Bologna Unmasked The 50th edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna hosted more than 250,000 visitors from 150 countries, as well as 2,677 exhibiting companies from 69 countries. Among the myriad of trends on display, masks took center stage.

Timeless Truth Trading Co., Ltd. presented a range of masks, including the Sakura Clarity Pure Cotton Maskm Hydra-Intense Black Charcoal Mask, Horse Oil Demulcent Mask and Immortelle Rejuvenation Herbal Bio Cellulose Mask.

The ChinUp Mask Trial Pack “can reduce the appearance of your double chin by up to 2 cm+ in only 30 minutes,” according to the brand, and retails for $39.95.

OhK! Life’s range of K-beauty masks offer the category’s signature inventiveness. The brand offers a wide array of formats and ingredients, including coconut, avocado and gold dust.

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PinkFrogs Cosmetics won Cosmopack’s The Wall Award 2017 in the “Best Formula Skincare” category for its Sleeping Metallic Mask, which comprises a vegetable polymer that creates a memory effect that molds to the face without dripping.

Patchology offers hydrating and illuminating masks, depuffing under-eye products and more, including the PowerPatch Dark Spot Corrector , which “lightens age spots, liver spots, acne scars, and sun damage amid the harsh urban sun,” according to the brand, and comprises alpha arbutin, retinol and niacinamide to reduce the appearance of melanin and hyperpigmentation. The product includes 56 Dark Spot Corrector Patches and one tube of Dark Spot Protector Sunscreen Gel Broad Spectrum SPF 30 for $60.00.

Barber Pro’s range of male-centric masks.

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Egg White Pore Foam by SkinFood ($11) reportedly regulates sebum and eliminates clogging impurities while helping to purify and tighten the pores. The foam also eradicates bacteria and energizes the skin by gently removing dirt, oil and other impurities. Key ingredients: egg whites, protein and albumen.

MEN’S SKIN CARE BY THE NUMBERS* $2.87 billion: value of global men’s skin care market (£2.3 billion) 73%: portion of men’s skin care attributable to the mass market 57%: growth of men’s skin care between 2009 and 2014 1%: growth of men’s skin care between 2014 and 2015, due to the popularity of facial hair 5.52–5.85%: range of annual growth expected for the category through 2020 *M&H Plastics Market report; www.mhplastics.com

The Moisturizing, Relaxing, Revitalizing, Nourishing and Healing collections by Treets Traditions feature formulas based on ancient traditions with a modern flair. The Moisturizing line protects and hydrates the skin using oils and seeds. Relaxing uses traditions from Asia as an inspiration to create massage, bath and exfoliation products out of extracts and oils from flowers and plants. The Revitalizing line uses exfoliating herbal therapies to promote healthy beauty. Nourishing provides extracts from nuts and seeds to load the skin with healthy vitamins and nutrients, and the Healing line includes products that are made from herbs and oils that moisturize and heal the skin over time. Key ingredients include passion fruit seed oil, coconut oil, cranberry seed oil, citric acid, grape seed oil, kukui seed oil and rosemary leaf extract. Products in the collections range in price from $12 to $26 and are available at Ulta.com.

The Oxy OnThe-Go Acne Stick ($5.99) features an effective, easy-to-use and mess-free acne treatment containing benzoyl peroxide (5%). Conveniently packaged in a slim, solid form, the stick is designed for easy spot treatment while at school or traveling.

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The Pacifica Target Collection includes Coconut Probiotic Mineral Bronzing Sunscreen Spray SPF 30 (pictured), Mineral Face Shade SPF 30, Mineral Face Stick SPF 50, Mineral Sunscreen Spray SPF 30, Mineral Sunscreen Spray SPF 50, and Sun Lipcare Mineral Balm SPF 30 in Clear, Nude and Peach. Each product offers UVA and UVB protection and is formulated with caffeine and probiotics. The Good Housekeeping Institute’s Beauty Lab subjected Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Cream to a clinical and blinded consumer study that sought to find out if the $25 product could stand up against creams in the prestige market. According to Good Housekeeping, at the three-hour mark, Olay moisturized 400% better than a cream nearly 18 times its price and beat all other products tested. In addition, Olay increased moisture by 50% on average over a 24 hour period and, when blindfolded, consumers preferred Olay 80% of the time over the expensive creams, stating it felt “rich” but not heavy.

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in-cosmetics Global Recap: Skin & Sun Sensitive Skin Sensitive skin impacts more than half of the world’s population, according to figures presented by Evonik at incosmetics Global. For instance, 51% of American women and the same portion of Indian women claim to have sensitive skin, compared to 60% of French women. In addition, men comprise a significant portion of those with sensitive skin. Skin sensitivity can be impacted by environmental pollution, sun, wind, shaving and cleansing, social and psychological stress, and temperature variations, which can trigger redness, irritations, dryness, and stinging, itching and burning sensations. To address these issues, Evonik has introduced Tego Pep 4-Comfort, a tetrapeptide that “selectively relieves typical symptoms of sensitive skin” and “counteracts overreactions triggered by repeated contact or external irritants such as heat.” In one shaving study, the ingredient reduced redness and itching by 70% and burning by 56%. Tego Pep 4-Comfort can be applied at levels of about 2–4% in aftershaves, creams and lotions, sunscreen products, after-sun products and cosmetic products for daily care regimens, particularly for sensitive skin. Meanwhile, Mibelle has introduced SensAmone P5, a biomimetic peptide based on a sea aneomone protein that can immediately comfort sensitive skin, according to the company, while minimizing the skin’s response to stress and reducing the itching sensation of sensitive skin. The ingredient can be applied to sensitive skin care, neurocos metics and comforting formulations.

Skin Recharge Lipotrue introduced Sirtalice, which induces a V-lifting reshape on the face in 30 minutes, with long-lasting efficacy, while also providing a recharging cooling blast to the skin. The ingredient is aimed at consumers with on-the-go lifestyles, primarily in urban centers. The company also launched Pauseîl, “a retreat for your skin,” which boosts radiance by 40% in seven days, seals the skin barrier and boosts hydration. Merck presented its RonaCare RenouMeris sustainable anti-aging marine-derived active ingredient, which supports collagen formation and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. The company’s liquid RonaCare Pristine Bright reportedly boosts the appearance of lighter skin and minimizes the appearance of age spots.

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Innovation Under the Sun New and unique sun care innovations are always front-ofmind at in-cosmetics. This year, Hallstar was awarded the 2017 Global in-cosmetics Innovation Silver Prize for its antiaging ingredient, Micah. The functional ingredient “halts the photo-aging process before it starts,” according to Robert Hu, vice president of R&D. He added, “Independent clinical research shows that Micah … prevents 100% of free radicals, ROS, inflammation, and DNA damage from UVA and visible light, at a use level of only 0.2%.” Lucas Meyer Cosmetics/IFF presented Melinoil, an oilsoluble skin photoprotector that can be applied in antiaging, anti-wrinkle, hair care, sensitive skin, sunless tanning, pre-sun and other sun care products. The China-compliant a-MSH biomimetic peptide (INCI: Isopropyl Palmitate (and) Lecithin (and) Water (and) Acetyl Hexapeptide-1) reportedly strengthens the natural skin photoprotection, enhances skin pigmentation (by 54%), reduces skin redness and soothes sun-damaged skin, and limits skin photoaging and premature aging. The three-ingredients-in-one format of the product allows for more efficient formulas, as well as multifunctionality, according to Lucas Meyer/IFF. Sonneborne presented Shea XP, an active base emollient that improves trans-epidermal water loss performance and skin protection, in addition to anti-inflammatory and antiaging activity. Shea XP can be formulated into an array of applications, including skin care creams, lotions, ointments, balms and body butters, sensitive skin applications and color cosmetics. According to the supplier, “Shea XP meets the OTC monograph as a skin protectant, allowing for a silkier skin feel in topical ointments.” n

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HAIR Clairol’s Latest Launches Go Bold, with No Regrets Heather Carruthers, VP, global and U.S. marketing, Clairol, discusses the brand’s latest launches. As Clairol unveiled the launch of its Color Crave Hair Makeup and Color Crave Semi-Permanent Color, Jeb Gleason-Allured, editor in chief of Global Cosmetic Industry, interviewed Heather Carruthers, VP, global and U.S. marketing, Clairol, to discuss the brand, its evolving consumers and what’s next in the hair color sector. Here, we present Carruthers’ first-person insights.

Experiment with No Limitations Color Crave Hair Makeup is a washable hair color option that was created to achieve on-trend looks without the commitment of permanent color or the investment in time and money required to achieve these looks at a salon. It features 3D micro-crystals that temporarily bond to the hair’s surface and coat each strand. We created this knowing that there are consumers who want to play with hair color as often and as easily as they play with their fashion or color cosmetics, for example, like trying on a different shade of lipstick every day. They’re looking to play with color to help express themselves and for that instant gratification. With Color Crave Hair Makeup, they can experiment daily with no limitations.

Easy Application We wanted the application process to be as easy as possible, even for people who have never colored their hair. We created a squeezable tube with a sponge tip applicator tool that makes the application process quick, easy and fun. Just shake, swipe and blow dry to seal in the color.

Quick and Easy SemiPermanent Color Color Crave Semi-Permanent Color offers high-definition color for non-permanent wear with a creamy, no-mix, no-drip dye that

coats the hair’s surface. We created the formula to make the process quick and easy for the consumer.

Inspiring Confidence In terms of packaging, one of the biggest barriers with home coloring is wondering how the results will look on your current hair color. We felt it was important to include in the packaging how it would look on blonde, brunette or bleached hair to help consumers choose and apply even the boldest colors with confidence.

Unapologetically Experiential Compared to Gen X and Baby Boomers, Gen Z express themselves through fashion and beauty on a daily basis. They’re more unapologetically experiential in these areas compared to older generations. Gen Z wants to experiment with hair color as often as they experiment with makeup, with the freedom to switch up their look on their terms.

Total Control This young consumer is constantly craving new looks to complete her unique style. She doesn’t necessarily see at-home color as a chore, but more of part of her beauty regimen to express herself and be in total control. She wants options for day-to-day when it comes to hair color and wants the option to change it up without a heavy investment of time and money.

Event-ready Hair Most recently, hair color has been in demand among festival goers and, through social media, festival style is driving trends even for consumers who aren’t attending. Leading up to Coachella we saw every trend, from holographic hair to highlighter hair.

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Young consumers are very much making decisions per event, and most decisions around hair color are driven by temporary looks using hair chalk or wigs, which is why our new Color Crave offerings are more relevant than ever. In addition, consumers want to accentuate their hair color for big life occasions such as prom, sweet 16, graduation or their 30th birthday bash. Consumers are eager and looking to change up their hair looks, and these products give them the freedom to experiment on their terms.

Bold, Expressive and Safe As consumers are looking to be more expressive with their color, they’re also increasingly concerned with the health of their hair. They want to feel good about the products they’re using and how they’ll affect the look and feel of their hair in the long run. As the color expert, it’s our job to constantly innovate to feed their cravings for natural looking color and bold, expressive looks, while developing formulas that address their concerns about damage and preserving the health of their hair. Color Crave is a major step forward in expanding their options and giving them new ways to experiment with color that are limited only by their creativity. n www.GCImagazine.com

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Data: Color Rules Salon Hair Care

In 2016, according to Kline Group (www.klinegroup.com), coloration services were the largest U.S. salon service category, comprising 31% of salon revenue and representing 7% growth for the year. The fastest-growing color services were: • Men’s lightening • Men’s coloring • Balayage/hair painting • Semi-permanent color • Bleach and tone The fastest-growing color shades in 2016 in order of growth rate were: • 58%: silver shades • 26%: bright color shades • 17%: black shades The top three color care shampoos purchased by salons in 2016 were: • Matrix Biolage Colorlast • Redken Color Extend Magnetics • Redken Color Extend The top three color care shampoos purchased by salons in 2016, according to Kline, were: • Matrix Color Obsessed Conditions • Vibrant Sexy Hair Sulfate-Free Color Lock Conditioner • L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil Color Grow The top three salon treatments of 2016, according to Kline, were: • Olaplex Hair Perfector No. 3 • Pureology Color Fanatic Hair Treatment Spray • Redken One United Multi-Benefit Treatment n

Is “Textured Hair” a Whitewash?

Shea Moisture has had its Kendall Jenner-Pepsi moment. Recently, the traditionally African American-centric hair care brand released a Facebook video, which prominently featured white women. The brand’s legacy customers responded immediately, with Twitter users such as @girlswithtoys declaring “SheaMoisture is CANCELLED.” The brand almost immediately removed the video and posted an apology, noting, “Wow, okay—so guys, listen, we really f-ed this one up. Please know that our intention was not—and would never be—to disrespect our community, and as such, we are pulling this piece immediately because it does not represent what we intended to communicate.” The “textured hair” strategy leveraged by large and small brands alike has dominated the “ethinic” hair care discussion in recent years, with marketers focusing on problem-solution and texture-not-ethnicity paradigms to create the widest possible audience for their product ranges. But, according to a must-read deep-dive story from Racked writer Morgan Jerkins*, this has come at a cost. The journalist notes that stylists and consumers have accused African American hair care brands of reformulating to skew their products toward white consumers. At the same time, models of color say they have experienced a lack of emphasis in favor of their white counterparts as part of a wider effort to appeal to the Caucasian hair care market. Striking a balance between fully respecting one’s traditional consumers while aggressively pursuing new marketshare will be tricky. Jerkins’ story closes by asking the questions that are surely on the minds of many traditionally African American-centric brands: “Ideally, a market for black-oriented hair products can be seen as both mainstream and black-centered, not two labels that run directly opposite from one another. As a company expands, what or who gets erased in the process? Is it possible to maintain a loyal clientele of black consumers the more mainstream a company becomes? Can you have black models in advertisements and reference black people in sales pitches and still be considered mainstream?” n *www.racked.com/2017/4/5/15189534/whitewashing-natural-hair-carecarols-daughter-shea-moisture

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in-cosmetics Global Recap: Untangling the Latest Hair Innovations Next to skin care, hair care is one of the leading innovation spaces for functional and active cosmetics. This year’s in-cosmetics Global featured a wide range of new introductions. Naturex presented Tillandsia Eutectys BP (INCI: Propanediol, Betaine, Aqua, Tilandsia Usneoides Extract), also known as Angel’s Hair, which is derived from a plant that clings to trees and collects runoff water for its nutrition. Applied in hair care, the ingredient can boost hair suppleness in masks, lotions, spray hair creams, conditioners and shampoos. It can also reduce friction and ease combability. Givaudan introduced ResistHyal a bioactive ingredient that acts on the keratin infrastructure to offer multifun ctional effects on dull, coarse hair, including hydration, thicker and tighter cuticles, anti-frizz, shine, softness and pollution defense. Chemyunion presented Go Blond (INCI: Water (and) Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract (and) Polyquaternium 7 (and) Sericin (and) Fibroin (and)

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Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate (and) Guar Hydroxyp ropyltrimonium Chloride), which reduces damage caused during the hair coloring process by forming a film around the hair. Go Blond can reportedly positively impact the melanin of hair without upsetting the underlying hair structure. n

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Packaging and design matters. Suave Professionals recently played a social media prank by “launching” Evaus, a new hair care line targeted toward millennials. The brand’s experiment generated a video showing beauty influencers reviewing the “new” hair care line, which was simply repackaged Suave, which the influencers had been trying out for 10 days. It wasn’t until the end of their reviews that the influencers learned the on-trend products were in fact Suave Professionals products available via drug store channels. “We’re asking women to look past the label and reconsider Suave,” said Jennifer Bremner, marketing director for Suave. “Give it a try. We’re confident women will love their hair, and they’ll love what they paid to get that hair.”

Clean it Up Shampoo ($10) and Soften Up Conditioner ($10) by Eva NYC have launched in U.S. Costco stores. The shampoo and conditioner feature ingredients that provide vitamins and nutrients to moisturize and promote anti-breakage, including argan oil, keravis protein, and vitamin A and vitamin E.

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MAKEUP Athleisure Makeup by the Numbers Consumers’ greater focus on wellness is creating a wide array of opportunities for beauty brands, including innovators such as Sweat Cosmetics and Kinx Active. But how big is the opportunity? NPD.com recently put some numbers to this burgeoning trend. Prestige makeup sales rose 11% in the 12 months ending in February, totaling $7.6 billion, according to NPD. The segment accounted for more than 80% of the industry’s total gains. The rise of wellness has boosted long-lasting and waterproof products, according to the firm’s analysis. But there have been other key gains across the makeup segment. • 8%: growth in the foundation category, led by multifun ctional formulations; basic foundation sales actually declined for the period • 13%: long-wear foundation sales gains • 17%: sales gain of concealers • 7%: sales gains in powders, which surpassed blush sales • 31%: sales gains of eyebrow color • 18%: lip color sales gains • 16%: face primer sales gains • 6% eye primer sales gains • 23%: lip primer sales gains • 16%: sales gains in waterproof mascara • 7%: sales gains in waterproof eyeliner “In today’s image-driven society, the bar has been raised to maintain a perfected ‘natural’ appearance virtually around the clock,” said Karen Grant, global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group. “With heightened focus

Maybelline New York debuted a range of forthcoming products during the annual Met Gala. Gigi Hadid (pictured, courtesy of Getty Images) wore the Master Prime in Blur + Illuminate, Brow Precise Volumizer in Blond and Superstay Matte Ink in Loyalist (pictured), among other makeup.

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on appearance, the door opens for manufacturers and retailers to fill the need for consumers seeking increased usage of beauty products that can hold up to the rigors of our active lives—including a workout—to look good before, during, and after working out.” n

The Elke Brow Collection includes the Brow Scrub ($21), which encourages hair growth by removing dead skin and preventing dryness at the root of the brow, the Brow Serum ($24), which repairs and boosts eyebrow growth by breaking down dead scalp cells, and the Brow Smooth ($19), which hydrates and softens hair. Key ingredients include virgin coconut oil, sugar, aloe vera and pro-vitamin B5.

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Created in conjunction with designer Rebecca Minkoff, the spring 2017 nail color collection by Essie features six Baja, Calif.-inspired hues. “The sapphire waves crashing on the sandy shore and the brilliant, creamy pink sunsets over the cactus-ﬁlled desert provide the perfect backdrop for a selﬁe or two,” said Minkoff of the inspiration for the latest collection. Colors include On the Roadie, a vibrant Kelly green; Excuse Me, Sur, sun-kissed coral mango; Backseat Besties, a delicate pink plumeria; B’aha Moment, a pink pomegranate; Designated DJ, a plum sangria crème; and All the Wave, a sapphired indigo.

Morphe has introduced the Ready, Set, Gold! palette ($22.99), which mixes matte and shimmer with metallic shades of polished copper and gold. The eyeshadow palette includes 35 shades that range from dark chocolate to pigmented shadows for a bright pop.

Kylie Cosmetics has launched its hotly anticipated collaboration with Kim Kardashian West. The set of four KKW Crème Liquid Lipsticks offer sheer to medium coverage and come in a subtle range of tones named Kimberly, Kim, Kiki and Kimmie.

Becca Cosmetics and Chrissy Teigen have partnered to create a limited-edition Becca x Chrissy Teigen Glow Face Palette ($46) that features Teigen’s favorite highlighter, the Shimmering Skin Perfector Pressed in Rose Gold, plus three new shades created in collaboration with the model and celebrity. Also included are Skin Perfector Pressed Highlighter in Beach Nectar, Sunlit Bronzer in Malibu Soleil and Luminous Blush in Hibiscus Bloom. 52

Makeup

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YBFBeauty’s Dripping Bling Illuminating Crème ($24.80) is a paraben-free silky textured cream that can be applied directly to the skin or layered over foundation. The crème contains ultra-ﬁne particles of crushed faux pearl pigments to deﬂect light and illuminate the skin, helping create the look of naturally radiant skin. Ingredient highlights include Cera alba (beeswax), Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, mica and silica.

Four years is equivalent to a millennium in social media terms. It was in 2013 that Michelle Phan, one of the early influencer wave’s leading lights, launched EM Cosmetics with L’Oreal. Whether hindered by a pricing misalignment or something else, that partnership was dissolved and Phan took back control of EM Cosmetics. Now, the line has been rebuilt and is set for relaunch. EM Cosmetics’ Infinite Lip Cloud is a long-wearing, non-drying matte liquid lipstick that melds the benefits of a lip primer with that of a traditional liquid lipstick. The line is available in seven shades, from Spanish Earth to Crimson Red to Rose Nude to Ultramarine Violet.

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BATH/BODY/GROOMING/FRAGRANCE

Baby Dove, the company’s first new U.S. category since Dove Men+Care in 2010, has been launched with Rich Moisture and Sensitive Moisture ranges. Rich Moisture is hypoallergenic, with pH-neutral, tear-free cleansers and a fragrance specifically developed for delicate baby skin. Sensitive Moisture is fragrance-free for sensitive skin and is hypoallergenic, with pH-neutral, tear-free cleansers. The products include body wash, baby lotions, Sensitive Moisture Hand and Face Wipes, and Rich Moisture Shampoo.

Van Der Hagen’s Natural and Organic Shave Oil ($7.99) minimizes razor burn by lubricating the beard and skin for a closer shave. The shave oil provides a protective barrier that prevents dry skin by using natural and organic ingredients.

DuPont Surlyn ionomer resins can reportedly achieve a one-step frosted effect for cosmetic caps, bottles and jars. According to the company, the effect is achieved directly from the mold and can enable fine details, tactile quality and consistency. Surlyn has the ability to copy fine, intricate details of a mold to achieve a high gloss design with an entirely, or partially, frosted appearance.

The Live Clean Fresh Water, Argan Oil and Coconut Milk collections use naturally based ingredients that are biodegradable and recyclable. All products are certified organic and vegan. The collections include Liquid Hand Soap ($4,29) and Hydrating Body Wash ($5.99) and include ingredients such as vitamin E, rosemary, chamomile, panthenol, hyaluronate, argan oil, grape seed oil, olive oil and coconut milk.

Tenzing’s Face Moisturizer ($20) comes in sandalwood and sage mint, soothing and nourishing the skin with antioxidant protection. The Pre-Shave Oil ($22) conditions and stimulates skin repair to allow for an easier and more comfortable shave. The Shave Cream ($24) strengthens and hydrates the skin to prevent razor burn and protect against the harsh effects of shaving. Key ingredients include aloe, coconut oil, glycerin, lavender oil and grape seed oil extract.

Design firm Design Happy worked with Hawkins & Brimble to design its British male grooming brand. The range evokes classic barber aesthetics, with a design update. Richard Bray, design partner at Design Happy, noted, “The approach was to appeal to a more premium market with a focus on modern effortless grooming, using inspiration from simpler days to formulate the basis for the naming, ingredients and brand.” Hawkins & Brimble is distributed via 15 online outlets and will be appearing in European Etos stores.

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PopWhite utilizes FDA-approved Red 33 and Blue 1 colorants to create the brand’s signature purple formula, which reportedly reduces the visibility of yellow dental stains. The peroxide-free color-correcting Primer (toothpaste; $24) and Toner (oral rinse; $24) help whiten, brighten, polish and clean teeth, while freshening the breath. Ingredient highlights include xylitol, sorbitol, peppermint oil, coconut oil, Red 33 and Blue 1.

Terpene Cosmetics’ Anti-Aging Night Cream, Body Milk and Shower Gel include hemp terpenes and nonpsychoactive cannabidiols, which are thought to have anti-inflammatory properties. The Anti-Aging Night Cream ($74) works both on the surface and underneath the skin to hydrate and soften. The Body Milk ($38) nourishes the skin with long-lasting hydration that leaves the skin feeling silky smooth. The Shower Gel ($28) uses a terpene aroma that enhances the bathing experience. Key ingredients: Terpenes, cannabidiol, tocopherol, coenzyme Q10 and hyaluronic acid.

The Jack Black Razor and Shave Program has introduced the Razor ($15), Classic Shave Kit ($29) and Bump-Free Shave Kit ($29) to help men achieve a clean shave. The Razor is a five-blade, stainless steel razor that uses a weighted handle and non-slip grip. The Classic Shave Kit contains Pure Clean Daily Facial Moisturizer, Beard Lube, Double-Duty Facial Moisturizer, a razor and two replacement cartridges.

Saverglass has introduced Meiji, a perfume and cosmetics bottle inspired by Japanese design. The Meiji is available in 100 ml and 50 ml capacities, both of which are available in an extra white flint finish. The dimensions are as follow: height, 21.4 mm (100 ml) and 100.4 mm (50 ml); weight, 175 g (100 ml) and 105 g (50 ml); base section, 40.9 mm (100 ml) and 38.5 mm (50 ml); shoulder section, 33.4 mm (50 ml); body section, 47.1 mm (100 ml) and 105 mm (50 ml); and glass base thickness, 12 mm (100 ml) and 10 mm (50 ml). The Nateeva (www.nateeva.com) range of scents celebrate the islands of Jamaica, St. Martin and the Bahamas ($125/each) and were developed by fragrance evaluator Hope Freeman and perfumer Laurent Le Guernec. Nateeva Jamaica, an “ode to the Lingum vitae flower,” includes notes of mandarin, frangipani and coconut water; Nateeva Bahamas “captures the yellow elder flower,” and includes notes of linden blossom, ginger and sandalwood; and Nateeva St. Martin evokes hibiscus flower, along with notes of vanilla, mimosa and sheer musk. The brand is rolling out further scents, including Nateeva St. Thomas, Nateeva Dominican Republic and Nateeva Aruba, as well as body lotions, body washes, candles and diffusers. The scents are available at the brand’s site, as well as retail outlets on the namesake islands.

Aqua Velva celebrated the brand’s 100th anniversary with the launch of its 5-in-1 Sensitive After Shave Balm, which relieves redness, itchiness, ingrown hairs, dryness and irritation, which are reportedly the top-five shaving-related issues men with sensitive skin experience. According to an AquaVelva survey of men who shave, 71% said their skin is sensitive all or some of the time after they shave. However, only 25% of men said they were frequent users of after shave.

54 Bath/Body/Grooming/Fragrance Global Cosmetic Industry | June 2017

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PRODUCTS and SERVICES

showcase

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

PACKAGING

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PRIVATE LABEL

Products and Services Showcase 55

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AD INDEX The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.

PAGE

ADVERTISER

PHONE

WEB SITE

BASF

1-973-245-6000

www.carecreations.basf.com

Bioscreen Testing Services

1-310-214-0043

www.bioscreen.com

Brookfield Engineering Labs, Inc.

1-508-946-6200

www.brookfieldengineering.com

Centerchem, Inc.

1-203-822-9800

www.centerchem.com

Classic Cosmetics, Inc

1-818-773-9042

www.classiccosmetics.com

Cosmetic Group USA, Inc.

1-818-767-2889

www.cosmeticgroupusa.com

Cosmopak USA/Cosmopak Europe

1-516-767-9119

www.cosmopak.com

Covestro/Bayer Materialscience AG

49-2184-7669-757

www.baycusan.com

drom fragrances international

49-89-7944-25-0

www.drom.com

Evonik

1-804-452-5616

www.elements-of-care.com

Cover 3

Fusion Packaging

1-214-747-2004

www.fusionpkg.com

Pilot Chemical Co.

1-513-326-0600

www.pilotchemical.com

Spectra Colors Corp.

1-201-997-0606

www.spectracolors.com

Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc.

1-800-985-2228

www.sundeepinc.com

U.S. Nonwovens Corp.

1-631-952-0100

www.usnonwovens.com

11 3 17 Cover 4 43 1 Cover 2

9 47 5

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DIGITAL EDITION EXCLUSIVE CVS is presenting more on-trend brands and better-for-you beauty products.

INSIDE THE CVS BEAUTY MAKEOVER How this pharmacy giant is revamping its stores to focus on wellness and trend-forward beauty and personal care. | BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED, Editor in Chief

VS Pharmacy’s transition from sick care to self-care began in 2015 with the rollout of better-for-you beauty products. Today, the new store format has expanded to more than 800 stores, with 3,400 more featuring expanded beauty offerings. Now, the company is taking the next step in its evolution, further expanding better-for-you beauty and an unexpected mix of on-trend and K-beauty brands.

Meet the CVS Shopper According to company representatives, 80% of CVS customers are women, most of whom have very little time for themselves. Many of these consumers choose to “cocktail” their beauty choices, freely mixing mass and prestige brands, always on the hunt for “what works and what’s fun.” The pharmacy retailer recognized an opportunity to enhance its selections for these savvy time-starved shoppers as they wandered the aisles while

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waiting for a prescription to be filled. The result is a mix of brands that delivers innovation to the consumer that give them joy and confidence that they can trust.

Targeting “Ingredients of Concern” The broader CVS strategy to support consumers’ self-care manifests in beauty primarily through ingredients and efficacy. As technology has advanced, brands and retailers have found it increasingly feasible to remove “ingredients of concern” from their shelves. To that end, CVS has announced that, by the end of 2019, it will remove parabens, phthalates and the most prevalent formaldehyde donors from its 600 store-brand brand beauty and personal care products, including lines from CVS Health, Beauty 360, Essence of Beauty and Blade. (The Promise Organic line contains none of these ingredients.)

As part of the #LongLiveSkin campaign, the retailer has removed any non-broad-spectrum sun care products from its shelves, as well as those with an SPF below 15. CVS representatives explained that 70% of CVS pharmacists are asked about skin care conditions daily, including advice on OTC products. (Pharmacists give consumers feedback based on ingredients, but do not recommend specific brands.)

In response, the retailer assessed the top prescriptions related to skin care, including those treating chronic conditions such as acne and eczema, as well as those treating episodic skin care issues such as rashes, burns and sunburns. CVS also gathered data on skin-related side effects related to prescription drugs, most commonly dryness and photosensitivity. The retailer used this data to curate an

#LongLiveSkin Skin is a massive category for CVS, which carries more than 700 derm-related SKUs. So, in addition to revamping store brand formulas, the retailer is giving consumers dermatologist advice on how to take better take care of their skin, in particular the importance of SPF.

The Saem Urban Eco Waratah Eye Cream.

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The new CVS skin care aisle.

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DIGITAL EDITION EXCLUSIVE

assortment of products that will be situated beside the pharmacy checkout for maximum convenience. These stations will also include educational materials for those who don’t have a chance to consult directly with a pharmacist.

Going Natural and Organic for Parents and Babies With its revamped brand mix, CVS now carries about 2,000 organic, natural and “natural-inspired” beauty products, according to the retailer. For instance, CVS now carries Organic Doctor, an organic-certified brand from the United Kingdom. The brand features a range of “Snail Gel” powered skin care products, which offers on-trend hydration. (In a nod to its customers’ sensibilities, CVS notably does not use the term “snail mucus.”). The NSF-certified, CVS-exclusive Promise Organic line introduced its line of face and body products in 2015; now, the brand is expanding into baby care. The move is in line with a broader trend of brands pushing into the baby care space. For instance, Dove recently launched Baby Dove, its first new U.S. category since Dove Men+Care in 2010. Targeting parents seeking safer, gentler products for their children, the CVS line comprises body lotion,

Elisha Coy Brightening Ampoule Solution Mask.

replenishing body wash with oatmeal, synthetic chemical-free sunscreen and a gentle diaper rash ointment.

Expert-approved Skin Care Efficacy is a critical element of the CVS skin care strategy, which is why the retailer has expanded its range of dermatologist-tested brands with a point of difference. For instance, the company’s Skin + Pharmacy Advanced Acne Therapy Kit leverages Microsponge technology that encapsulates active ingredients for a slow time release and less skin irritation. Meanwhile, its sun products that include an SPF amplifier to allow consumers to apply fewer ingredients while still delivering a higher SPF protection.

and niche brands,” according to a company statement. “A beauty discovery zone highlights on-the-go options at checkout.” CVS has also partnered with Peach & Lily’s Alicia Yoon, who has been a critical element in K-beauty’s expansion across virtually every retail channel. Yoon’s curated selection of more than 100 K-beauty products, dubbed K- Beauty HQ, will be available in more than 2,100 CVS Pharmacy locations. Some products will be exclusive to CVS. Yoon’s selections focus on “innovative, eye-catching and easy-tounderstand products, including benefitfocused masks, multi-step skincare regimens, whimsical cosmetics and innovative ingredients like egg oil, snail mucin and more,” according to CVS. The K-beauty collection will include Yoon’s new brand, Peach Slices, which will be exclusive to CVS, offer fun and ease to consumers, and comprise ingredients such as honey and yuzu. Other CVS exclusives include Frudia skin care, which is waterless and fruit-based, comprising only active ingredients for targeted skin benefits; Elisha Coy, which incorporates

K-beauty at the Pharmacy

Holika Lazy&Easy Smooth Egg Skin Peeling Gel.

Alongside its push to deliver betterfor-you beauty, CVS is increasingly focused on the trend-forward brands that retail for a premium and create savvy consumer excitement. “To help improve customer exploration and inspiration, a new ‘trend wall’ has been added to 2,000 stores featuring new launches

Peach Slices Hydrate Mask.

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Frudia Pomegranate Nutri-Moisturizing Sheet Mask.

naturally derived ingredients such as snail mucin to help replenish skin’s moisture and support cell regeneration; JJYoung by Caolion Lab, a pore-focused brand offering steaming and cooling for on-the-go facials; and the Ariul EGG Collection, including egg oil, which helps reduce inflammation, boosts elasticity and fights free radicals. Non-exclusive best-selling Korean brands include the Ariul mask brand with a juice-cleanse-inspired line; The Saem natural products that include materials such as mineralrich water from Iceland and waratah from Australia; the Holika collection, comprising Sanrio-inspired Gudetama peeling gels and oil-to-foam cleansers. CVS will provide in-store K-beauty education and a dedicated online hub for trends and product and ingredient information.

correcting balms, contour powders and highlighting powders. Now, CVS is debuting a range of on-trend and socially trending brands, in line with competitor Walgreens’ plan to add NYX Professional Makeup products to nearly 2,000 stores across the US and Puerto Rico. For instance, the retailer is adding a selection of WunderBrow products, including the Wunder2 smudge-proof brow gel, which lasts for two days. The brand, which is exclusive to CVS in the physical retail channel, was first introduced in a pilot program across 500 stores. Its success has led the brand to expand across 4,000 stores, according to the retailer. CVS is also bringing Tigi Cosmetics’ professional salon cosmetics into the mass retail space for the first time. The brand retails for a price point higher than a typical CVS beauty offering and features prestige packaging and formulations. The company is also stocking Vinylux nail products which, in line with the CVS ingredient focus, are made without formaldehyde, toluene, DBP, formaldehyde resin, camphor, xylene or parabens. The products last seven days and do not JJ Young Pore Steam Cleanser. require the use of light

Wunder2 Wunderbrow Gel.

treatment, adding additional value and health benefits. Future introductions will include lip plumping products and lash extensions, according to CVS.

Beyond Beauty The CVS better-for-you ethos spans all of the retailer’s categories, including dietary supplements that offer hair and skin benefits, as well as an expanded sleep-focused selection. While there are no beauty-specific brands in the sleep expansion, there is a more holistic view of sleep that comprises sleep supplements with melatonin, humidifiers, sunlight simulators, white noise machines and therapeutic pillows. This could be an area for potential growth for the beauty and personal care space. n

Beyond the Salon CVS carries its own exclusive beauty brands, including Beauty 360’s national brand-equivalent products, as well as the MUA (Make Up Academy) color cosmetic line, which includes makeup brushes, eye makeup and a Tips & Tricks range comprising illuminizing primers, finishing powders, mattifying balms, color

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