GCI Magazine 07-08 July August 2016 by Bel SPA

CONTENTS JULY/AUGUST 2016

n VOLUME 184, NUMBER 6

features 6 Curl Power Inside the textured hair categoryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s boom.

10 Rule-breaking Beauty Two design projects present unique approaches to fun, playful and beautiful packaging.

20 Solving the Fragrance E-commerce Problem The power of connections and engaging consumers on their own terms. BY RACHEL TEN BRINK

22 What the Consumer Sees at Retail Understanding the gulf between the retail plan and reality.

24 3 Secrets of the New Premium Beauty Consumer A shift away from status-driven purchases and toward those that provide an experience and distinct benefit is remaking this growing category. BY ILDIKO SZALAI

28 A Whole New Man Say goodbye to the metrosexual and say hello to the post-recession man and the skin care brands that speak to him. BY LISA DOYLE

32 Target Practice Unlocking the true power of your audience streamlines your brand-building efforts and spares you from unnecessary costs. BY SHERI L. KOETTING

36 Rewriting the Beauty Rules How millennials are driving innovation toward individualistic, digitized consumers.

departments 4 Spark: What Does the Consumer Know? BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

6 10 14 18

Insights & Breakthroughs Beauty Buzz Brands & Benchmarks Brand Strategies

20 Beauty Channels 48 Ingredients & Claims 50 Packaging Innovations

BY JAMIE MILLS

40 Building a Better Foamer New research yields foamer packaging concepts that optimize the consumer experience.

44 Coming Clean on Beauty Inside Credoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest expansion and the future of the natural, organic, vegan and ethical consumer.

www.GCImagazine.com

resources 54 Products & Services Showcase 56 Advertiser Index

Contents

Jo-El M. Grossman Jeb Gleason-Allured, 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com Nicole Urbanowicz, 1-630-344-6053/nurbanowicz@allured.com Jennifer Novoseletsky, 1-630-344-6045/jnovoseletsky@allured.com Mino Zaccaro, 1-630-344-6067/mzaccaro@allured.com

Kim Jednachowski, 1-630-344-6054/kjednachowski@allured.com Paige Crist, 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com Kasia Smialkowski, 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

Linda Schmitt Marie Galvan, 1-630-344-6027/mgalvan@allured.com 1-888-399-0899/customerservice@gcimagazine.com

Lisa Hede Hon Bannapradist Bryan Crowe

Janet Ludwig George Fox Linda Getner Sandy Chapin Rose Southard Maria Romero

Allured Business Media 1-630-653-2155 • fax 1-630-653-2192 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA www.Allured.com

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Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.GCImagazine.com/subscribe In the US, telephone: 1-888-399-0899, Outside the US, telephone: 1-847-559-7557 (9 AM–5 PM Central, Mon-Fri) | Fax: 1-847-291-4816 E-mail: customerservice@gcimagazine.com Print subscriptions: United States—FREE one year; all other countries—US$89 one year, shipped by air. Single copy (U.S. Only), US$10. Periodicals Postage paid at Carol Stream, Illinois, and additional mailing offices. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective. Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published ten times per year as Jan./Feb., March, April, May, June, July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403 USA. Copyright 2016. Free subscriptions to Global Cosmetic Industry are available to qualified individuals. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Replacement issues are available only through single copy sales. Single copies: $20; GCI Directory Issue: $35 (Add $10 per order shipped to Canada; add $15 per order to all other countries.) Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream IL 60188 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Global Cosmetic Industry, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.

Members of the American Business Media. All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA. Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documents referred to within or affiliated with this publication. www.GCImagazine.com

2 Contents GCI July/August 2016

CONSUMER GOODS

LEND GLAMOUR T O D A I LY L I F E

w w w. m a n e .c o m 2011

SPARK

n BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

What Does the Consumer Know?

I JEB GLEASON-ALLURED Editor in Chief jallured@allured.com @GCI_Magazine

GCI MAGAZINE EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD ALISA MARIE BEYER

Coastal Salt & Soul

MARIE ALICE DIBON

Alice Communications, Inc.

ADA POLLA

Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group

ART RICH, Ph.D.

A. Rich Development

RICK RUFFOLO

R4 Innovations

CRISTINA SAMUELS

Mode Cosmetics

LAURA SETZFAND Epiphany

n 2011, Forbes contributor Chunka Mui offered Steve Jobs’ famous dictum on the value of consumer research: “A lot of times, people don’t know what they want until you show it to them.” However, Mui countered, “I actually think Jobs was right but only in the very narrow category to which he aspired: where his products, such as the Mac, iPod, iPhone and iPad, either redefined or created product categories.” So maybe the question isn’t about what the consumer knows but rather what type of innovation a brand is delivering that dictates the insight strategy. Last year, April Long, executive beauty editor at Elle Magazine, discussed the various types of innovation at an FGI breakfast, including the pivot, which repositions an existing technology to enhance its utility and success; the refinement, which creates differentiation and elevation of an existing offering/category; and the lightning bolt, which involves the introduction of a completely new concept or product category. At a more recent FGI event in New York, Elle beauty director Emily Dougherty highlighted one recent example of the lightning bolt, BitterLaceBeauty’s prism cheek highlighter, which comprises a pan of multicolored pigments that can be swiped by finger onto one’s cheek for a prism effect. Sold by the small brand on Etsy, the product unexpectedly took off on social media, creating immediate sellouts and long delays for replenishment orders. Who could have predicted such success? And what possible consumer research could have yielded such a product? Returning to Mui’s point, Steve Jobs, for all his vision and brilliant execution, was a refiner at heart. No one remembers the AT&T FlashPAC (launched: 1996). Or The Audible Player (launched: 1998). Or the Diamond Rio (launched: 1998). Or the Archos Jukebox (launched: 2000). But we all remember the iPod (launched: 2001)—not because it was the first MP3 player, by a longshot—but rather because it was the most perfectly refined. Jobs, in fact, learned much from the consumer through the failures of his predecessors and leveraged that knowledge and his own visionary, contrarian design principles to create the first truly iconic product of the 21st century. So maybe it’s not about asking what the consumer knows, but rather what each development project needs them to know in order to ensure product development success. I hope you enjoy our special double-issue. See you again in September. n

Daily news, insights and trends: www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter 4 Spark GCI July/August 2016

INSIGHTS & BREAKTHROUGHS Curl Power The textured hair category—particularly curls—is undergoing a significant evolution, according to several experts and brands in the hair care world. Significantly, natural hair concepts have begun to span traditional ethnic silos, creating new mainstream approaches to designing brands and products. TextureMedia’s TextureTrends 2016 noted that the textured hair care category was created by consumers who suffered a lack of relevant products for their wavy, curly and coily hair, which should be surprising, considering that more than 60% of the population has naturally curly, coily or wavy hair. The report concludes, “It is a market that cannot be ignored.”

Brands Catching Up There have long been brands focused on multicultural consumers, which have a deep knowledge of their consumers’ needs, including ingredient concerns. One example, among many, is London-based Twisted Sista Salon Performance Styling Products, which recently introduced larger sizes and an organic coconut lime fragrance. The paraben- and sulfate-free products tackle curl concerns by offering moisture, frizz control and styling options. The line now includes the Frizz Control Straightening

Blow Dry Cream (7.5 oz), which keeps hair straight, smooth, soft and protects hair up to 450 degrees of heat from a blow dryer or flat iron. Other products in the line include Luxurious Clarifying Shampoo, Intensive Leave-In Conditioner, 30-second Curl Spray, Curl Activator Crème and Amazing Dream Curls Gel. The line includes ingredients such as coconut, avocado and almond oil. Meanwhile, Dove Hair has embraced the curl trend with the launch of its recent #LoveYourHair campaign, which seeks to “broaden the definition of beautiful hair by celebrating all hair [types, textures, styles, colors] and inspiring real women to do the same.” The effort specifically targets traditional narrow perceptions of what hair types are considered to be beautiful. Dove Hair explained that 86% of U.S. women believe that media and society put a lot of pressure on women to have hair that looks a certain way. A few months earlier, Dove Quench introduced the Dove Love Your Curls Emoji Keyboard to correct the longstanding dominance of straight-haired female emojis. The new emoji keyboard is available for free on the Apple App Store and Google Play, featuring 27 curly hair designs with selectable skin tone and hair color, resulting in 131 variations.

“Once I really started to embrace my curls, my entire world changed, and it’s made me the woman that I am today,” said Pantene spokesperson Jillian Hervey, lead singer of Lion Babe.

“When 73% of people in this country claim to use emojis every day, they’re very quickly becoming the new currency of communications,” said Rob Candelino, vice president of hair care marketing. “But even though one in three women in the U.S. have naturally curly hair, they can’t find emojis on keyboards that look like themselves.”

#StrongIsBeautiful and #HairTruth

CURLY HAIRED CONSUMERS BY THE NUMBERS • 81% of female hair care consumers feel that the hair depicted in advertising and the media makes women feel bad about their own hair* • 11% of women love everything about their hair and wouldn’t change anything about it* • 90% of women agree that they need to embrace their own hair and stop comparing themselves to others* • 75% of women believe they would have greater self-confidence if they didn’t feel that they were being judged by their hair* • 10% of women and 40% of girls like their curly hair** • Coily-haired consumers spend an average of $37 a month on products, 20% more than straighthaired consumers*** • 77% cocktail products on a regular basis*** • 47% rank reviews as the most important purchasing consideration of a new product*** • 44% rank ingredients as the top purchasing consideration of a new product • 50% say a sample encouraged them to purchase a product*** • 54% consider shea butter the most desirable ingredient, followed by argan oil • 11% of coily consumers rank frizz as a concern, while 46% of wavy-haired consumers rank it as their top concern*** • 42% of women with coily hair wear their hair natural most of the time*** • 47% of these women rank ingredients as a top purchasing consideration of a new product*** *Dove Hair research; **Dove Quench research; ***TextureMedia’s TextureTrends 2016 report (www.texturemediainc.com)

Pantene has partnered with R&B/soul singer Jillian Hervey, lead singer of Lion Babe, for the #StrongIsBeautiful TV, print and digital advertising, in-store, public relations and social media campaign, which offers insights into strengthening curls and fighting frizz. Pantene’s latest initiative seeks to move the frizz conversation from a focus on humidity to the subject of hair strength. As such, the campaign will highlight the Pantene Pro-V system. #StrongIsBeautiful also resets the brand’s focus on long, straight hair to one that embraces all hair types and textures. “Once I really started to embrace my curls, my entire world changed, and it’s made me the woman that I am today,” said Hervey. “Keeping my curls strong and healthy is so important, and thanks to Pantene, I’ve finally uncovered a routine that allows my curls to be practically frizz-free.” Similarly, P&G has expanded its My Black is Beautiful (MBIB) #hairtruth program with a partnership with celebrity natural hairstylist, Felicia Leatherwood.

6 Insights & Breakthroughs GCI July/August 2016

INSIGHTS & BREAKTHROUGHS

The effort specifically targets traditional narrow perceptions of what hair types are considered to be beautiful. The campaign declares “healthy hair is the truth” and features brands like Pantene’s Expert Collection, Head & Shoulders’ Moisture Care Collection, Herbal Essences’ Hello Hydration and Aussie’s 3 Minute Miracle Moist. The initiative will include hair education and styling tips on social media, as well as educational webisodes.

Curls Run the World Sephora’s “It’s a Curl Thing” campaign is making it easier for consumers with curly hair to find hair care products on its website. The limited-time section divided curly hair into four types—wavy, curly, coily and tightly coiled—with a definition under each type. When a consumer clicked on the hair type according to the guide, she would see different products that she could use on that specific hair type. The products were organized with shampoos, conditioners and detanglers, hair masks and treatments, stylers and hair oils for each type. In addition, there are helpful tutorial videos. Sephora also partnered with MadameNoire, an African American lifestyle site, to launch a four-part digital series, “Curls Run the World,” featuring natural hair influencers, including hairstylist, Monica Stevens (Mo Knows Hair), fashion blogger Yolanda Renee, Rozonda ‘Chilli’ Thomas (lead singer of TLC) and poet Aja Monet. The series focuses on black women embracing their hair types, as well as products aimed at particular textures. With new marketing campaigns surfacing daily, as well as the growing realization of the power of the multicultural market, the beauty agenda is expanding to encompass every hair type for every consumer. n

Sephora’s “It’s a Curl Thing” campaign is making it easier for consumers with curly hair to find hair care products on its website.

London-based Twisted Sista Salon Performance Styling Products recently introduced larger sizes and an organic coconut lime fragrance.

What Happens When the Mirrors Get Smart? Augmented reality has already impacted mobile retail and top beauty brands. Now, it’s coming into consumers’ homes. SimpleHuman has launched a stainless steel, Wi-Fi-enabled Sensor Mirror Pro Wide-View, which features side panels and retails for $400. In addition to featuring more than 50,000 color variations, including presets, the mirror’s Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connections allow the device to connect to apps to control lighting settings (including lighting based on selfies or via images captured by linking to a Nest Cam) or link to Amazon Echo and its Alexa app, which enables the mirror to take verbal commands—no hands required. The smart mirror can be charged and run for weeks without additional power and senses the user as they approach. When low on power, the mirror can email an alert to the user or use a link to an online calendar to create lighting situations based on a day’s activities. n

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Insights & Breakthroughs 7

INSIGHTS & BREAKTHROUGHS

Shiseido Q&A: Propelling Innovation at the Local Level Shiseido recently enhanced its global R&D infrastructure to boost the consumer relevance of its beauty innovations. The company has unveiled an upgraded consumer research and product development facility in East Windsor, New Jersey, which will collaborate closely with the New Yorkbased Makeup Center of Excellence, which is headed by president Jill Scalamandre. These sites are part of a larger innovation network that includes the U.S.-based Center of Excellence in Digital, Europe’s Center of Excellence in Fragrance and Japan’s Center of Excellence in Skin Care.

Putting Excellence into Action The company is already leveraging this network as part of its recent acquisition of prestige and luxury beauty company, Gurwitch Products, which has brought Laura Mercier and RéVive into its portfolio. According to an official announcement, Gurwitch’s 2015 sales totaled $175 million. Shiseido is looking to expand the reach of Laura Mercier and RéVive in the United States and internationally, particularly Asia, as the prestige beauty category continues to heat up. The company’s Global Centers of Excellence for skin care, color cosmetics, digital and its Americas Innovation Center will leverage “consumer-facing marketing activities” and “collaborative expertise” to enhance the offerings of Laura Mercier and RéVive, according to Shiseido. The goal is to optimize the product development process and boost the brands’

Shiseido is looking to expand the reach of Laura Mercier and RéVive in the United States and internationally, particularly Asia, as the prestige beauty category continues to heat up.

Shiseido has unveiled an upgraded consumer research and product development facility in East Windsor, New Jersey, which will collaborate closely with the New York-based Makeup Center of Excellence, which is headed by president Jill Scalamandre.

marketing impact and awareness around the globe. Shiseido notes, “The brands will also be able to leverage Shiseido’s regional infrastructure in the Americas and shared resources to improve productivity and effectiveness.” Of the brand synergies, Marc Rey, president and CEO of Shiseido Americas, said, “Laura Mercier’s classic French elegance and artistry perfectly complements the unique styles and offerings of NARS, bareMinerals, Shiseido and Clé de Peau Beauté to create a formidable portfolio of prestige makeup. And RéVive, with its proven restorative formulas and use of Nobel prize-winning technologies, is a terrific fit with Shiseido’s skin care heritage.” “Shiseido has the tools and expertise to help these brands continue to thrive, and shares Gurwitch’s unwavering dedication to empowering customers and celebrating individual beauty,” added Candace Matthews, who oversees the Gurwitch Products business and is president of the Americas region for Amway. “I am excited to see what’s in store for these brands and their customers as part of the Shiseido organization.”

Where Innovation is Going Recently, Global Cosmetic Industry spoke with Yoichi Shimatani, chief research and development officer, Shiseido Co. Ltd.,

regarding the future of innovation at the company and its implications. GCI: Why is regional innovation so important to the company? Shimatani: Shiseido’s global strategy for the future, Vision 2020, will enhance brand value for consumers worldwide by propelling innovation at the regional level and creating innovative products based on consumer insights and values. The global centers of excellence are a tremendous resource for the entire Shiseido family and allow us to make the most of our organization’s global footprint by tapping into local expertise. We aim to create products that deliver incredible results, marketed in new and innovative ways that really speak to our consumers wherever they may be. GCI: How do the different centers of excellence coordinate in developing new products with regional or local relevance around the world? Shimatani: Shiseido has established “Centers of Excellence” in regions where key brands are based and expertise is found. The goal is to help break down silos among Shiseido’s portfolio of brands so that best practices can be shared and innovation in both product development and marketing

8 Insights & Breakthroughs GCI July/August 2016

Color Makeup is Going Premium in the U.S. Yoichi Shimatani, chief research and development officer, Shiseido Co. Ltd., recently told GCI, “Restructuring our R&D function around the globe builds on our heritage of innovation and consumer insights to create products that our consumers around the world are passionate about and have a genuine emotional connection with.”

“We want consumers to be at the center of all our activities, from R&D, marketing and communications, to ensure that we have an understanding of our customers’ behavior and attitude toward skin care and cosmetics.” —Yoichi Shimatani, chief research and development officer, Shiseido Co. Ltd. can be unlocked, thus strengthening the company’s global resources for the benefit of every brand and every customer. The newly expanded Americas Innovation Center will strengthen Shiseido’s consumer research, information development and product development in the Americas, and will closely collaborate with Shiseido’s recently launched Center of Excellence for Makeup, which is based in New York. Shiseido R&D has been developing many cutting-edge technologies and will continue to strengthen this function furthermore. Our Global Innovation Center (GIC) will be established in 2018 at the center of Yokohama city, a core area of the Japanese fashion source. We will increase the investment in basic research at GIC and www.GCImagazine.com

leverage the global R&D network to develop outstanding products and services for our global consumers. GCI: How do the changes at Shiseido reflect broader trends in beauty and consumers’ lives? Shimatani: Restructuring our R&D function around the globe builds on our heritage of innovation and consumer insights to create products that our consumers around the world are passionate about and have a genuine emotional connection with. We want consumers to be at the center of all our activities, from R&D, marketing and communications, to ensure that we have an understanding of our customers’ behavior and attitude toward skin care and cosmetics. n

A move toward premium offerings will drive the U.S. color cosmetics segment toward revenue of $13 billion by 2020, according to a new Technavio (www. technavio.com) report. Future growth will be led by a focus on premium offerings, social engagement and more. The segment percent value breaks down as follows: • Face makeup 44.06% • Eye makeup 32.21% • Lip makeup 12.85% • Nail makeup 11.89% The U.S. face makeup market was valued at $5.04 billion in 2015, led by contouring products such as bronzers. The U.S. eye makeup market was valued at $3.57 billion in 2015, led by eye color products, brow products and niche offerings. “In 2014, the premium lip color segment generated more than USD 420 million worth of sales in the U.S. alone, while the eye makeup segment generated sales of over USD 1,100 million,” said Technavio analyst Brijesh Kumar Choubey. Choubey added, “Manufacturers in the U.S. market are keen on expanding their presence in the luxury segment. To achieve this, vendors are extending their presence in a wide spectrum of products ranging from bath products to nail polishes.” n

GCI’s daily newsletter: breaking news and insights. www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter Insights & Breakthroughs 9

BEAUTY BUZZ Rule-breaking Beauty

hen Sephora was gearing up for its biggest beauty launch ever—900 doors in 22 countries—for Marc Jacobs Beauty, the retailer sought to have its packaging feel like an Apple product, filled with subtle details. Sam O’Donhaue, the partner/ founder/creative director at Established New York, interpreted this mission by delivering key elements, such as a hyper-thin frame for a curved compact case with mirror. The design expert contrasted this project with another for H&M during the recent Cosmopack New York International Business Forum & Exhibition, which featured a selection of Italian beauty supply chain companies and more than 150 buyers coming from the United States, Canada, Chile, Brazil, Mexico, Guatemala and Peru.

Proportion Play O’Donhaue’s playing with proportion extended to the line’s sevenpanel eye shadow palette and its “chubby” and “cute” blush case, which has a button that is twice the size of comparable products on the market. Why do it? Because it’s fun—and, as O’Donhaue put it, the Marc Jacobs Beauty brand could “get away with it.” The design project infused “juicy” shapes and products that looked like candy, foundations that looked like pills and elegant lipsticks in a posh nude case, pushing the brand toward the border of credibility and fun. The overall design concept moved Marc Jacobs Beauty toward prestige and away from the young feel of offerings like Lola.

relied on execution, which requires creative leaders to be heavily involved with engineers, approving every element. The results included hexagonal mascaras and relaunches of products in different case colors, like white and blue. This was backed up by the brand’s campaigns and Sephora’s in-store experience, which included unique fixtures and furniture in designated spaces, as well as small touches like offering shoppers black macarons.

The Dangers of too Much Fun Conversely, O’Donhaue worked on a project for H&M’s beauty products, which had struggled under a redesign that included iterations that were deemed to be “too fun.” Rejected concepts included a candy theme, a beauty addiction concept with a pharmaceutical bent and another that was all about the runway, featuring an on-stage. Most of the designs were too loud, O’Donhaue said, adding that if the brand was seen as “too fun” it risked losing credibility. What H&M wanted was a prestige feel, million-dollar look and low cost. Not so easy.

H&M wanted a prestige feel, million-dollar look and low cost for its packaging. Not so easy. But doable.

Overcoming Limitations

The design project for Marc Jacobs Beauty’s packaging infused “juicy” shapes and products that looked like candy, foundations that look like pills, elegant lipsticks in a posh nude case, pushing the brand toward the border of credibility and fun.

Small Touches To add fun to the sophistication, the packaging developed by O’Donhaue included fun touches like complexion sticks in deodorant shapes and lip pens that were crayon-shaped. All of this, of course,

O’Donhaue explained that controlling costs meant the inclusion of many stock components and just a handful of custom pieces to make them special. As a result, the design team used classic, prestige finishes—gold, ivory and black—to lend credibility. Every compact was presented in half-and-half (i.e., gold and black) to create some fun with stock elements that suddenly felt customized. The products also featured fashion photography on pack, with some feeling more serious and others more playful. In the end, O’Donhaue said it was important to have respect for the engineering to understand what was possible. He added, however, that it is sometimes necessary to push engineers out of their comfort zones in order to truly push boundaries.

10 Beauty Buzz GCI July/August 2016

BEAUTY BUZZ

events

Beauty That Translates Lan Vu, founder and CEO of BeautyStreams, discussed how global brands are waking up to a multicultural world. The importance of multiethnic consumers has been well documented, with trends from Asia, including the cushion compact, spreading rapidly around the world. Vu presented an in-depth analysis of color palettes around the world and cautioned that personalization requires companies to be culturally fluent. For instance, while white might connote cleanliness and purity in the west, the same tonality is associated with death in Asia. Similarly, red is seen as passionate in West, while the color signals luck and happiness in the East. Meanwhile, the influencers are changing. Vu pointed out that so-called “ethnic minorities” in the United States are expanding and will eventually comprise the majority of the population, particularly Hispanics. Lebanese bloggers are driving the beauty agenda in the Middle East and Africa, while North Asia is dominated by Korea and South Asia is mainly influenced by Thailand. Sub-Saharan Africa—particularly Nigeria—is embracing a more regional approach to beauty. For instance, said Vu, African consumers are focused on more natural looks that tout African pride. These consumers are no longer trying to copy European or American beauty norms. Vu’s presentation concluded with regional palettes. For instance, U.S. consumers prefer a strong emphases and contrast on the eyes and mouth. Latin Americans prefer strong red lips, while European trends are driven by a more natural look that emphasizes only the eyes or mouth—rarely both at once. Sub-Saharan African palettes were modern, comprising mahogany, plum, cherry lips, purple sparkle eyes and golden-toned nails. n

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2016 July 13–14—Sun Protection & Anti-ageing Skin Care Conference; Hilton Hotel Singapore; www.summit-events.com July 24–26—Cosmoprof North America; Las Vegas, Nevada; http://cosmoprofnorthamerica.com August 24–25—Indie Beauty Expo; The Waterfront; http://indiebeautyexpo.com September 7–8—in-Cosmetics North America; New York City, New York; www.in-cosmeticsnorthamerica.com September 7–8—MakeUp In New York; www.makeup-in-newyork.com September 13–14—Aerosol & Dispensing Forum and Packaging of Perfume, Cosmetics & Design (ADF&PCD New York—1st Edition); New York; The Altman Building & Metropolitan Pavilion; www.adf-pcd.com September 21–23—LuxePack Monaco; Grimaldi Forum; www.luxepack.com

Beauty Buzz 11

BEAUTY BUZZ

Honoring Fragrance’s Greats

osted by Alec Baldwin, this year’s Fragrance Foundation awards honored the global industry’s fine fragrance achievements in a variety of categories: creativity, marketing, consumer choice and packaging. Leslie H. Wexner, CEO, L Brands, was inducted into the Hall of Fame and Joanna Coles, editor in chief, , was presented with the Gamechanger award. Sophia Grojsman, vice president, IFF, was awarded the Lifetime Achievement award for her unprecedented work in the global fragrance industry for nearly 50 years. Beginning her career as a lab technician for IFF, Grojsman’s work as a perfumer has spanned across decades for the world’s most well-known fashion houses and brands. In her acceptance speech, Grojsman mused, “You have to know what a woman knows and what she wants. My perfumes are very feminine and very bright. I am glad that so many enjoy them.” Considered to be a pioneer in the industry, Grojsman is the nose behind many lauded creations, including Calvin Klein Eternity (1988), Elizabeth Taylor Diamonds and Rubies, Lancôme Tresor (1990), Prescriptives Calyx (1990) and Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne (2000 with Sophie Labbé).

Social Media Campaign of the Year: Maison Martin Margiela

The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2016 Winners

360-Degree Marketing Campaign of the Year: Modern Muse Le

Fragrance of the Year, Women’s Luxury: Tom Ford Noir Pour Femme – Tom Ford Beauty

Fragrance of the Year, Men’s Luxury: Tom Ford Venetian Bergamot – Tom Ford Beauty

Fragrance of the Year, Women’s Prestige: Marc Jacobs Decadence – Coty, Inc.

Fragrance of the Year, Men’s Prestige: Dior Sauvage – Parfums Christian Dior

Fragrance of the Year, Women’s Popular: Victoria’s Secret Forever Sexy – Victoria’s Secret

Fragrance of the Year, Men’s Popular: Nautica Life Energy – Coty, Inc.

Packaging of the Year, Women’s: Marc Jacobs Decadence – Coty, Inc.

Packaging of the Year, Men’s: John Varvatos Dark Rebel

Replica – L’Oréal

Rouge Eau de Parfum – Estée Lauder

Breakout Star: Narciso Rodriguez NARCISO Eau de Parfum – Beauté Prestige International

Interior Scent Collection of the Year: La Collection 34 – Diptyque Bath & Body Line of the Year: Mimosa & Cardamom Body Creme and Body & Hand Wash – Jo Malone

Indie Fragrance of the Year: Voulez-vous coucher avec moi – Kilian Perfume Extraordinaire: Chanel Misia – Perfumer: Olivier Polge Fragrance Hall of Fame: Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue – P&G Prestige

Consumer Choice, Men’s: Dior Sauvage – Parfums Christian Dior Consumer Choice, Women’s Prestige: Versace Eros Pour Femme – Euroitaly

Consumer Choice, Women’s Popular: Victoria’s Secret Forever Sexy – Victoria’s Secret

Media Campaign of the Year, Women’s: Miss Dior Blooming

Hall of Fame: Leslie H. Wexner, Founder, Chairman, CEO, L Brands GameChanger Award: Joanna Coles, Editor in Chief,

Media Campaign of the Year, Men’s: Dior Sauvage

Lifetime Achievement, Perfumer: Sophia Grojsman, Senior

– Elizabeth Arden

Bouquet – Parfums Christian Dior – Parfums Christian Dior

Cosmopolitan magazine, Editorial Director, Hearst Magazines Perfumer, Vice President, IFF n

In-depth event coverage in your in-box:

www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter 12 Beauty Buzz GCI July/August 2016

Following Packaging Trends at LuxePack

Mohawk was honored for its environmentally and socially responsible business practices.

his year’s LuxePack New York featured 3,768 visitors and 240 exhibitors, including packaging suppliers for the cosmetic and fragrance industry.

Metallize It Key trends included metallization processes, including metalized bulbs, micro-engraving and metallic reflections on glass bottles. For instance, SGD’s “Metal ‘In” technique gives the illusion of precious metal floating inside a packaging bottle, while Virospack’s metallized luxury droppers featured subtle shines and light reflections.

Recyclable Packaging Simplified packaging design was highlighted by the “raw materials in packaging” trend, characterized by Nate Packaging’s custom tooled recyclable lipstick packaging comprising 100% polypropylene, eliminating the need for multiple resins. Pujolasos Wood & Pack showcased bottles and outer packaging that were fully recyclable, including the internal perfume formula, which was made up of cornsourced alcohol and a blended aloe base.

Green Leaders Meanwhile, Burt Rigid Box Inc. and Mohawk won the event’s green awards, which honor the best sustainable design integrated into the production process. The best sustainable product award was given to Burt Rigid Box, Inc. for its Godiva’s Casual Gift Boxes, which employ Envirofoil. The challenge for the supplier had been to develop a new and improved wrap for the brand’s boxes that would replace its expensive, multi-layer coated stock with a more cost effective and production- and environmentally friendly alternative. Envirofoil also managed to help Godiva reduce costs. Mohawk was honored for its environmentally and socially responsible business practices, including matching 100% of its electricity with wind power renewable energy credits and being the first U.S. premium paper mill to shift toward carbon neutral production. Mohawk displayed its Superfine paper grade at the event, including its Superfine 150 cover, which is engineered for the digital printing of luxury packaging, hang tags and print collateral. The company continued to highlight its focus on texture, color and thin-to-thick caliper. n www.GCImagazine.com

Beauty Buzz 13

BRANDS & BENCHMARKS Australia’s Adorn Cosmetics has launched an eco-luxe range of cruelty-free vegan Style Icon Organic Lipsticks and Lip Glosses. The collection includes four organic lipsticks named after sophisticated icons, Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly. The six lip glosses are named after contemporary icons, including Cate Blanchett, Stella McCartney, Amal Clooney, Princess Diana, Angelina Jolie and Scarlett Johansson. The line “allows women to make ethical and sustainable cosmetic choices without compromising on quality, style or luxury,” said Adorn’s founder, Briony Kennedy. n

Natural beauty brand Mother Dirt is launching what it claims are the first-ever consumer products containing AOB, or ammonia-oxidizing bacteria, which “consume the irritating components in sweat and ... keep skin clean and clear.” On the heels of the launch of the National Microbiome Initiative by the White House Office of Science and Technology policy, Mother Dirt parent AOBiome is wrapping up testing of therapeutic applications of AOB. Mother Dirt’s AOB-powered products include: AO+ Mist (100 mL; $49), Mother Dirt Shampoo (100 mL; $15) and Mother Dirt Cleanser (100 mL; $15). The AOBiome research seeks to better understand how microorganisms in and on the body behave and what functions they perform, which could yield further breakthroughs in beauty and personal care. AOBiome has conducted initial studies on acne and Keratosis pilaris, and is continuing to research the importance of AOB to the skin microbiome and overall health. n

NARS has introduced its peachy pink Special Edition Orgasm Blush. The original blush is being offered in a limited-edition, over-sized custom compact designed in collaboration with Fabien Baron of Baron & Baron. The compact is being launched with a #whatmakesyoublush hashtag etched on the mirror and is priced at $39 at Sephora and department and specialty stores. n

3LAB Skincare’s Anti-Aging Cream helps reduce wrinkles, improve facial volume and firmness, hydrate and condition skin, reduce irritation and hypersensitivity, and brighten the skin. The complex is formulated to maintain and regulate skin homeostasis, increase elastin and collagen production from the inside out, and reduce visible signs of aging. Ingredients include marine cultivated algae, sea water and Capparis spinosa (caper bush) fruit extract. n

International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. has created PuraVita, the first Cradle to Cradle Certified fragrance (Gold level certified, with Platinum in Material Health), which adheres to strict sustainable design principles. The scent features notes of green apple, wood, apricot and vanilla. n

Smashbox has partnered with social media influencer Lilly Singh to introduce a signature shade of its Always On Matte Liquid Lipstick, “Bawse.” The lipstick is described as: “A bold matte red that warms up any complexion, it stays put for hours, looking as fresh and flawless as it did at first swipe. The precision tip can be used to expertly line and simply fill them in.” The shade is available at Sephora and via Smashbox’s website ($24). A commercial has been shot at the brand’s Smashbox Studios. The YouTube star, known as Superwoman, noted, “Bawse is one of 20 colors available in the range. It’s matte, long-lasting and 110% certified Bawse by yours truly as I even helped design the packaging.” n

14 Brands & Benchmarks GCI July/August 2016

BRANDS & BENCHMARKS

Dial-up internet, Melrose Place, pagers, Crystal Pepsi and Cucumber Melon: the ’90s are gone, but not forgotten, especially for Bath & Body Works. The brand is relaunching eight of its iconic scents from the 1990s. Celebrating these discontinued fragrances, the brand is tapping into consumers’ olfactory nostalgia, which was recently leveraged by Eurofragrance for its #Rememories scents. The fragrances will be reintroduced in several formats: Fine Fragrance Mist ($14), Ultra Shea Body Cream ($13), Shea & Vitamin E Body Lotion ($12.50) and Shea & Vitamin E Shower Gel ($12.50). Returning scents include: Sun-Ripened Raspberry (launched in 1996), Country Apple (launched in 1997), Cucumber Melon (launched in 1998), Freesia (launched in 1998), Brown Sugar & Fig (launched in 2005), Mango Mandarin (launched in 2002), Cotton Blossom (launched in 2000) and Peony (launched in 2004). n

Avon is teaming up with Sofia Vergara to launch So Very Sofia by Sofia Vergara, a new fragrance. Vergara aimed for the fragrance to speak to today’s strong, independent woman. It is a floral-based scent with warm and fruity tinges, launching exclusively through Avon this fall. The fragrance has juicy notes of passion fruit, evolving to reveal Flor de Mayo orchid, the national flower of Colombia. n

The Whitening Capsules Line by Accoje comprises a whitening capsule ampoule, Accoje whitening capsule essence and Accoje whitening capsule cream. The line includes ingredients such as Neolitsea aciculate (Blume) Koidz extracts and lotus extracts. n

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Brands & Benchmarks 15

BRANDS & BENCHMARKS

The Next Generation of Disruptive Cosmeceuticals Dermatologic Cosmetic Laboratories (DCL) has relaunched its skin care brand with a new modern design. Recently, Cherry Robinson, CEO of DCL, gave Global Cosmetic Industry some insights into the story behind the brand. GCI: What is new with the brand? CR: Over 35 years ago, our senior vice president of R&D, Joel Rubin, was convinced there was a way to incorporate gylcolic acid into the development of a commercial product that could be used at home rather than the physician’s office. That groundbreaking discovery led to the first breath of cosmeceuticals and DCL was born. Now we introduce the next generation of cosmeceuticals that will be just as disruptive to the industry as our first product was all those years ago. GCI: What made you relaunch the brand? CR: We believe everyone should have access to science that will result in beautiful skin. With state-of-the-art technology, we are the global authority for all products, of any nature, that may be applied to your skin. That’s a lot of ground to cover given there is six square feet of it that surrounds and protects your body. We collaborate very closely with leading researchers and dermatologists worldwide to develop highly efficacious, topical treatments in luxurious formats and textures. This is done from

our flagship innovation and development facility in East Haven, Connecticut. GCI: What did the relaunch consist of? CR: We know that beauty is more than skin deep and skin is more than a surface. Our proprietary Total Skin technology reinvents category standards. DCL has pinpointed the skin’s four most important building blocks to achieve optimal skin health—stratum corneum, epidermis, dermal epidermal junction and dermis. By targeting these zones with peptides, retinoids, vitamin C and AHAs, DCL offers the most comprehensive skin care line to not only correct skin conditions, but also to maintain overall skin health. With more than 40 products in the range, the brand provides customized, head-to-toe skin prescriptions for each patient and consumer. The collection is a one-stop shop for everything skin organized by categories, which include: brightening, anti-aging, retexturizing, antiacne, pore refinement and oil control, hydration, sensitive and post procedure, sun care, hair care and hand and body. GCI: What is included in the new launch? CR: Beyond technology and texture, we believe your skin care ritual should encompass joy. That is why we enlist the help of designers, photographers and artists who are the absolute best in their field. DCL creates a multisensory skin care ritual with elevated packaging photographed by renowned still-life photographer, Daniel Lindh. Creative visuals featuring supermodel Egle, photographed by sought-after fashion photographer, Karen Collins bring the advertising to life. GCI: What are some key ingredients you use in the products? CR: Our scientists amaze me every day. They have a way of incorporating the most efficacious active and natural ingredients, in the most inspiring ways, to create first to market and best in class formulations. For example, our Skin Renewal Complex SPF 30 is a powerhouse 5-in-1 hydrating emulsion, with 10 percent glycolic acid, to retexturize skin, DNA repair and a full SPF 30 to protect. All of this in a gentle formula that is so lightweight on skin, you don’t even know it’s there. Products have been clinically tested and are non-comedogenic, free of parabens, sulfates, phthalates and formaldehyde, and are never tested on animals. GCI: What do you love most about the brand? CR: It works. Really. n

16 Brands & Benchmarks GCI July/August 2016

*ZIV] HE] ERH IZIV] I\TIVMIRGI SJ SYV PMJI MW HITMGXIH SR SYV WOMR ERH EPP XLI WXSVMIW [LMGL EVI EFSYX XS FIGSQI SYVW [MPP FI [VMXXIR SR MX EW [IPP =SYV FIEYX] VIǼIGXW ]SYV I\TIVXMWI ERH WLS[W LS[ XLI TEWWMRK SJ XMQI QEOIW ]SY I\EGXP] [LS ]SY EVI 1YFVM^SP OMR (EVI JIEXYVIW IVIRI 'IEYX] MXW PEXIWX GSRGITX JSV XLI RI[ TIVGITXMSR SJ FIEYX] 4ǺIVMRK JSVQYPEXIH WSPYXMSRW XS LIPT [SQIR JIIP FIEYXMJYP XLVSYKLSYX EPP XLI WXEKIW SJ XLIMV PMJI IQFVEGI XLI TEWWEKI SJ XMQI ERH GIPIFVEXI XLIMV VIEP WIPJ Lipotec LLC. Tel: +1 (201) 8501213 - E-mail: salesoffice@lipotec.com REQUEST A SAMPLE / USE CODE: GCI07 ® 2016 The Lubrizol Corporation.

Accelerating your creativity

BRAND STRATEGIES L’Oréal as Startup Incubator When L’Oréal announced the appointment of Lubomira Rochet as chief digital officer in 2014, chief executive JeanPaul Agon said, “Digital expertise will shape the iconic brands and companies of the 21st century. The mission of this new organization ... is to accelerate L’Oréal’s digital transformation regarding consumer experience, service-based innovation, customer service and technology platforms.” Since then, the company’s NYX brand has opened a series of digitally integrated stores, L’Oréal has opened a technology incubator located in San Francisco, introduced the virtual makeover app, Makeup Genius, and launched My UV Patch, a stretchable skin sensor designed to monitor UV exposure and help consumers educate themselves about sun protection. Meanwhile, competitor Coty has acquired digital marketing firm Beamly to up its digital game and Sephora has launched virtual makeover app upgrades for mobile shoppers. The message is: Go digital or go home. Two years after Rochet’s appointment, L’Oréal has announced an investment in “digital accelerator and incubator,” Founders Factory. The deal renders L’Oréal the exclusive beauty tech startup partner for the firm. According to the companies, L’Oréal and Founders Factory will invest and scale five early stage startups and co-create two

new companies, which will produce products and services, from scratch every year. Rochet noted, “This strategic investment will give L’Oréal direct access to a powerful global ecosystem of exciting startups and innovative technologies at their earliest stage allowing us to invest in and nurture innovative business models based on digital platforms to better serve consumers’ aspirations.” Rochet and other L’Oréal executives will represent the company on the Founders Factory board of directors. Three L’Oréal executives will also hold seats on the beauty sector committee of Founders Factory. n

LATEST ACQUISITIONS • Puig, hoping to have captured 12% of the global selective perfumery market by 2020, has taken a minority stake in EB Florals. • Revlon has acquired Coty’s Cutex businesses, as well as Elizabeth Arden, the latter for approximately $870 million. • Johnson & Johnson is set to acquire Vogue International for $3.3 billion in cash, expanding its position in the hair care market. The list of potential buyers had included Unilever, Henkel & Co KgaA, and L’Oréal. Interestingly, Vogue tried selling at $800 million three years ago, but a lawsuit put a halt on the process, and Carlyle Group acquired a 49% stake in the company. • Godrej Consumer Products Limited (GPCL) has recently completed its investment into Strength of Nature LLC, expanding its holdings in the multicultural hair segment. Strength of Nature recently boosted its ethnic hair care holdings by acquiring Motions, Just for Me, Consort and Groom & Clean brands from Unilever.

• Shiseido has entered into an agreement with Alticor Inc. to acquire its subsidiary Gurwitch Products, LLC. The Gurwitch portfolio includes skin care brand RéVive and luxury cosmetics and skin care brand Laura Mercier. n

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www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter 18 Brand Strategies GCI July/August 2016

BRAND STRATEGIES

The Beauty of Private Equity The private equity investment trend in beauty has continued as Permira Funds announced a partnership with the founders of John Masters Organics Inc. (JMO) and Styla Inc. to boost the global expansion of the organic brand. The announcement follows Brynwood Partners’ sale of High Ridge Brands to Clayton, Dubilier & Rice, a deal valued at $415 million. At a recent Fashion Group International event in New York, Rich Gersten of Tengram Capital Partners noted a decline in generalist investing, though Permira Funds holds a diverse array of brands, including Hugo Boss, Valentino and Dr. Martens. Why is more private equity and investment banking turning to beauty? For one, said Gersten, beauty is a large and growing industry that is highly fragmented, with niche and indie brands offering unique investment opportunities. Under the current deal, Permira will acquire a majority of the shares of John Masters Organics Inc. and its exclusive Japanese and East Asian distributor, Styla Inc. The enterprise value of the deal is JPY 37 billion/approx. $336 million.

John Masters, the founder of JMO, and Yoshimune Noda and Maiko Noda, the founders of Styla, will continue to be involved in the combined businesses under the new partnership. JMO’s unique positioning has focused on “urban wellness, providing luxury, organic beauty that treats both its customers and the earth with respect.” The brand is available in more than 40 countries, in part due to the Styla partnership, which has been in place since 2007. By acquiring JMO and Styla, Permira is looking to further expand the brand around the world. Meanwhile, Brynwood Partners has announced an agreement to sell High Ridge Brands to Clayton, Dubilier & Rice, a deal valued at $415 million. Brands included as part of the deal include Rave, VO5 and White Rain, among others. Henk Hartong III, president and CEO of Brynwood Partners, noted, “Clayton, Dubilier & Rice is a well-respected private investment firm with the leadership, capital and vision to take the company to the next level. Under Brynwood Partners’ guidance, High Ridge Brands’ management created a personal care platform with leading brands in the U.S. hair care and personal cleansing segments. The High Ridge Brands platform highlights our unique capabilities in the corporate carve out sector, having built the company through a series of acquisitions from some of the leading global consumer products companies.” n www.GCImagazine.com

Brand Strategies 19

BEAUTY CHANNELS Solving the Fragrance E-commerce Problem n BY RACHEL TEN BRINK, CMO & CO-FOUNDER OF SCENTBIRD

elling fragrance is a conundrum—on one hand, millennial consumers “think department stores are dull and unexciting,” according to a recent Forbes Magazine piece by Walter Loeb.* On the other, it’s a category in which consumers require a physical interaction with the product. E-commerce continues to grow steadily and now represents about 9% of beauty sales, yet fragrance under-indexes the category. The reasons seem obvious. Consumers perceive prestige fragrance as a luxury product and are not willing to shell out $90 or more without having sniffed the product first.

Consumer Disconnect Scent is so personal that even a glowing recommendation from a trusted source, compared to when it actually gets on your skin, may end up not suiting your taste. If a consumer wants to bypass mainstream fragrances for the fastgrowing niche segment, it can be difficult to find a place where they can test the fragrance first. Consumers are hungry for information to help guide them through the process. This is where the internet comes in. But, there is so much out there, and it can be difficult to know where to start, what to look for and who to trust.

Why does fragrance under-index in the e-commerce channel? And how can it be turned around?

Speaking Consumers’ Language Scentbird (www.scentbird.com) was built solve this problem. We started as a recommendation engine, building an algorithm using 500,000 authentic reviews by real women to match consumers with the right scent. We took a different approach than most manufacturer or retailer algorithms. Instead of complex industry terms, we used the key

Scentbird’s Trendsetter box for men.

words real women use to describe their scent—for example, “smells like grandma,” or “shower fresh”—to find their perfect match.

Making Connections However, we realized that we had to build a bridge. Recommendations will only take the consumer so far. Consumers need to interact with the scent, live with it for a while and then make a decision. Millennials are curious, empowered customers who want to discover and experience products on their own terms. They are also a community that looks for information and trusts influencers and each other much more than they trust brands. We see the incredible power of social media and peer-to-peer recommendations to feed consumer interest in fragrances.

On Their Own Terms

Millennials are curious, empowered customers who want to discover and experience product on their own terms. * “Why Don’t Millennials Want to Shop at Macy’s?”; www.forbes.com/sites/walterloeb/

We are thrilled to see the growth of Scentbird. We have grown 50% since March 2016 and attest much of it to the millennial consumer focus. NPD (www.npd.com) has reported on the upswing of fragrance consumption, with millennials using more fragrance than prior consumer groups and looking for a scent to “make a statement.” Scentbird will be there to help them discover their dream scent on their own terms. n

20 Beauty Channels GCI July/August 2016

BEAUTY CHANNELS

Joya Blends Fragrance Production and Retail in Single Space Joya, a New York-based fragrance house, has opened its flagship location in Brooklyn’s Clinton Hill neighborhood, creating a unique industrial perfumery site in the city. The space houses small batch perfume blending, candles, soap and ceramics production, and diffuser blending. The retail space displays Joya’s core collections and products from 10 Corso Como, Claude Galien, Calepino, Pendleton Woolen Mills, Fog Linen Work, Steidl, Abrams Books, Morris Kitchen, Malin + Goetz, Apothecanna, Le Baigneur, Inventory, Tunica, Sarah Cihat, Geoffrey Young and Mungo Murphy Seaweed. The site’s gallery-style shop highlights the brand’s craftsmanship and was designed by architecture firm Taylor and Miller under the direction of founder Frederick Bouchardy. The retail gallery comprises large floating steel and wood veneer surfaces suspended by steel rods from the factory ceiling. Their associated display niches are wrapped in an oak wood veneer. The factory side of the surfaces, on the other hand, are left entirely bare, as are all of the structural angles, associated tack welds and electrical conduit. The entire display is fabricated in the United States. n

The site’s gallery-style shop highlights the brand’s craftsmanship and was designed by architecture firm Taylor and Miller under the direction of founder Frederick Bouchardy (pictured).

Say, “I Do” to the Allure Bridal Beauty Box Before walking down the aisle in summer 2016, brides can prepare with the first Bridal Beauty Box, created by a collaboration between Allure and BRIDES. This special edition Bridal Box will feature 10 beauty samples organized by Michelle Lee and Keija Minor, Allure and BRIDES editors. The 5,000 custom-designed boxes also include a mini magazine with content from both brands. The Allure Bridal Beauty Box includes the following: • AERIN Matchbox Fragrance Gift Set • Fresh Black Tea Age-Delay Eye Concentrate • KAPLAN MD Lip 20 Gloss Deluxe Sample in rosewood • Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer (oil-free) • Mally Evercolor Starlight Waterproof Liner and Brush Duo in Black Navy • Lauren B Nail Laquer in Sunset Tower • Lauren B Top Coat • DHC Deep Cleansing Oil Facial Cleanser • Pur~lisse White Tea Sheet Mask • Rimmel Wonderlash Waterproof Mascara “With the rise of social media, a bride’s wedding day has truly become her red-carpet moment, making finding her perfect beauty

look more important than ever,” said Michelle Myers, publisher and chief revenue officer of BRIDES. Future beauty boxes from the collaboration will feature travel essentials, back-to-school products and a grooming theme. n

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Beauty Channels 21

BEAUTY CHANNELS

What the Consumer Sees at Retail

Sunscreen had a large percentage—66%—of its displays outside expected aisles. While placement in unexpected aisles can create strong adjacencies, this is not a foolproof strategy.

here’s often a gap between a brand’s merchandising plan and its execution, and gaining a clear understanding of that discrepancy’s impact on performance in real time is difficult. Now, a new insights program from Quri is looking to leverage real-time data to paint a clear picture of the retail reality for personal care, sunscreen and insect repellent brands.

Plan Vs. Reality Retail can be a messy business. And the gap between brands’ plans and reality are becoming ever more complicated in the age of escalating SKUs, premiumization, diversified consumer bases and tech-enabled shoppers. Stores may be contracted to carry merchandise, but is it being placed properly? Is every product variation or scent being presented? Is there a tag on the shelf? How many facings are the brands getting? Is the display plan being followed and does their quality meet expectations? Are brands getting the eye share and mindshare they planned for? Are their brand presentations being hurt? In addition, brands must know whether stock is keeping up with high and low periods throughout the seasons. While retailers may do their best to provide inventory systems, they don’t provide the onshelf reality confronting the consumer.

Getting a Clearer Picture Now through Labor Day, Quri will leverage its Performance Driven Merchandising framework to measure overall display presence, display type and on-shelf availability details of several consumer product categories, including personal care (Dove and Colgate), sunscreen (Neutrogena, Coppertone and Banana Boat) and insect repellant (Repel and Off!). Conducted at 1,000 Walmart and Target stores monthly in the United States, a large flexible workforce will gather real-time, ondemand data using the EasyShift app, which gives Quri the speed and agility to capture large amounts of information as needed. The data will include photographs, providing analysts with an in-store view from their desks. Quri notes, “Collected routinely in thousands of stores daily, this data provides the information currency needed to help manufacturer’s make routine, efficient improvements to the merchandising process across all functions at all levels of the organization including customer business teams, category management, brand management, trade planning and all major headquarter functions coordinating with these teams to hit annual sales and profit targets.”

22 Beauty Channels GCI July/August 2016

Global Cosmetic Industry will present periodic insights drawn from Quri’s real-time performance tracking, providing an in-store view of how brands can optimize their spends and improve sales and margins in-cycle.

What’s Happening On-shelf Quri’s first Summer of Merchandising data collection period took place over seven days, ending May 25, 2016. The data uncovered outof-stock rates of 1–17% and off-self display presences of 16–74% in the period leading up to Memorial Day. Drilling down, Quri’s data found that on-shelf availability (OSA) of insect repellant was very low (35%), which could be improved over the season, particularly in the wake of consumer fears over Zika virus and other insect-borne ailments. Sunscreen and personal care brands posted OSAs of 71% and 81%, respectively, compared to top-performer carbonated beverages (97%). Out of stock percentage for personal care was 7%, and 3% for insect repellant. Out of stock rates were elevated for sunscreen, at 14%. Everyday shelf tag presence for the categories was as follows: personal care (86%), sunscreen (78%) and insect repellant (35%). Again, repellant was markedly low compared to all other categories.

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Promo tag presence for the categories was as follows: personal care (19%), sunscreen (25) and insect repellant (0%). Average number of facings per brand per store was 1.4 for personal care, 1.2 for sunscreen and 0.6 for insect repellant.

What’s Happening Off-shelf Sunscreen boasted an off-shelf display presence of 74%, according to Quri’s data. Sunscreen had a large percentage—66%— of its displays outside expected aisles. While placement in unexpected aisles can create strong adjacencies, this is not a foolproof strategy. Sunscreen had a high display presence (74%), while personal care and insect repellent were significantly lower, at 51% and 36%, respectively. Insect repellent had 58% of displays outside expected aisles, while personal care only had 39%. All three categories’ primary display vehicle was the endcap. While the information gathered covers just one week, additional data accumulated over the coming weeks and months will paint a clearer image of how brands and categories are performing. n

Beauty Channels 23

THE CONSUMER ISSUE

Secrets

of the New Premium Beauty Consumer A shift away from status-driven purchases and toward those that provide an experience and distinct beneﬁt is remaking this growing category.

∑ Consumers are increasingly focusing on experience over ownership and purchases that are more result-driven and individualized, all of which is a boon for premium beauty. ∑ Although premium buyers’ purchasing decisions are partly status-driven, their most desired product features also highlight that super high-quality and value for money are equally important. ∑ Given that high efficacy claims are the foundations of premium positioning, monitoring feedback about quality and product experience must be the most important aspect of managing brand perceptions. 24

The Consumer Issue

n BY ILDIKO SZALAI, SENIOR BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE ANALYST, EUROMONITOR INTERNATIONAL

remium beauty growth reached historic highs—6%—in 2015, supported by a growing shift toward higher-quality and more personalized solutions. Consumers are reassessing their values and priorities and are increasingly focusing on experience over ownership. To justify spending on premium, expectations are shifting from status-driven purchases to those that are more result-driven and individualized. The Euromonitor International Beauty Survey found that not all consumers with premium preferences follow up with an actual purchase consistently, but only buy

premium items where they see value in spending more. This gap is most significant in hair care, with only 11% of total market size generated by premium products, while half of consumers express premium preferences. Understanding their secrets can help brands capture new growth.

Secret

More Extensive Beauty Routines In terms of number of products used in their hair and skin care routines, weekly premium beauty buyers tend to have more extensive grooming regimens (F-1 and F-2).

GCI July/August 2016

F-1. Hair care routines by premium vs. non-premium buyers Extensives (4-7 Hair care products used weekly)

Moderates (2-3 Hair care products used weekly)

Minimalists (0-1 Hair care products used weekly)

■

Premium buyer

10%

■

20% 30% 40% % of respondents

50%

60%

Non-Premium buyer

F-2. Skin care routines by premium vs. non-premium buyers

Extensives (8-14 Skin care products used weekly)

Regional differences are significant. For example, in China, Thailand and South Korea, more than 50% of premium buyers have extensive skin care routines, using between eight and 14 products per week. However, in Western Europe, particularly France, Germany and the United Kingdom, less than 25% of premium buyers have skin care regimens involving more than eight products a week. Given the strong influence of Asian beauty on international markets it is likely that beauty routines in developed countries will include more products, and premium beauty brands will need to keep expanding their portfolios. Global premium lines have already introduced Asia-influenced products such as emulsions, essences and facial mists—integral steps in Asian beauty regimens—including Estée Lauder Micro Essence or Lancôme Hydra Zen Neurocalm Emulsion Moist. Any strategy to upgrade consumers to the premium tier requires portfolio extensions with distinct and targeted product benefits. Addressing more specific concerns naturally leads to routine expansion and further product adoption.

Secret

Moderates (4-7 Skin care products used weekly)

Demanding Higher-quality and International Status Minimalists (0-3 Skin care products used weekly)

■

Premium buyer

■

5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% 35% 40% 45% % of respondents Non-Premium buyer

Although a number of niche, local/regional brands are currently showing strong growth performances in premium skin care, such as Sulwhasoo or Rodan + Fields (pictured), their market value share gain is strongly driven by their international expansion. www.GCImagazine.com

The differences in the most desired product features for premium versus value buyers are most significant when it comes to quality and international presence. Although premium buyers’ purchasing decisions are partly status-driven, their most desired product features also highlight that super high-quality and value for money are equally important (F-3). Beyond price and performance, premium values are also shifting toward ethical credentials, authenticity and connection with the brand’s story and ultimate personalized experience. In terms of brands, it is twice as important for premium buyers that a brand has an international presence than for value buyers. Although a number of niche, local/ regional brands are currently showing strong growth performances in premium skin care, such as Sulwhasoo or Rodan + Fields, their market value share gain is strongly driven by their international expansion. Entering new geographies has long been an essential part of successful premium brands’ growth strategies, but The Consumer Issue 25

THE CONSUMER ISSUE

F-3. Skin care: premium vs. non-premium buyers desired product features Suited to my skin type Value for money Super-high quality Functions and/or benefits Natural or organic Strong or well known brand Multi-functional benefits Ingredient formulation International brand Claims on label 0

■

Premium buyer

■

30 % of respondents

Non-Premium buyer

F-4. Premium hair care buyers’ purchase influencers Beauty blog post or expert review Social networking site Doctor or medical professional recommendation Online user reviews, communities or forums TV ad Information or recommendations from spouse/partner Previous personal experience Free sample Sale/discount offer in-store 0

30 40 50 % of respondents

it also needs to be exploited as a brandbuilding tool. Successfully leveraging international presence means increasing alignment with local beauty cultures and habits and addressing market-relevant concerns. Global premium lines have already introduced Asia-influenced products, such as emulsions, essences and facial mists—including Lancôme Hydra Zen Neurocalm Emulsion Moist (pictured).

Secret

Brand Perception Management is Critical and Difficult Brand perception is the least controllable element of premium positioning in comparison to pricing or distribution strategy, which both have a major impact on how a brand is perceived beyond its efficacy (F-4).

Given the strong influence of Asian beauty on international markets it is likely that beauty routines in developed countries will include more products, and premium beauty brands will need to keep expanding their portfolios. Given that premium buyers are more digitally influenced than the general population, campaigns on social media and user review sites are powerful platforms for controlling premium perception. Premium beauty brands setting up or facilitating digital forums targeting premium buyers aid product and brand awareness, and enhance usage frequencies and extend grooming routines. For example, in 2015 Estée Lauder Companies launched Estée Edit, an online magazine that spreads the brand’s vision across beauty and lifestyle. Consumers blogging and reviewing iconic brands offer the company access to public opinion and a forum to interact and shape perception. Brand perceptions evolve over time, which makes managing them more challenging. And so it is essential to counteract all negative influencers with quick responses to any dissatisfaction that is expressed by consumers. Given that high efficacy claims are the foundations of premium positioning, monitoring feedback about quality and product experience must be the most important aspect of managing brand perceptions. The perception of premium products is also changing over time, influenced by the latest trends. Currently, beyond high efficacy, strong influencers are ethical claims, authenticity, connection with the brand’s story and product experience. n

26 The Consumer Issue GCI July/August 2016

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THE CONSUMER ISSUE

A WHOLE NEW

MAN

Say goodbye to the metrosexual and say hello to the post-recession man and the skin care brands that speak to him. n BY LISA DOYLE

∑ The long-lasting effects of the recession have led to a narrowing of the gender gap, and fewer differences in the expectations placed on men and women, personally and professionally. ∑ Men can be reached by appealing to their hearts, but might need to try a product in order to recognize its necessity. ∑ To capture the potential billion-dollar opportunity in men’s skin care, Western brands will have to look toward Asia for inspiration.

The Consumer Issue

elieve it or not, it has been more than 20 years since the term “metrosexual” was first coined. In 1994, writer Mark Simpson used it in The Independent to describe “perhaps the most promising consumer market of the decade.” In 2016, could that still be true? While the term is now an outdated relic, the idea behind it isn’t—it’s simply evolved over the years. Savvy brands can reach the metrosexual’s descendants and hold onto him for the long haul.

Men Have to Keep Up In 2008, the recession—or “mancession,” as it was known to many for affecting, by some estimates, up to 80% more men than women—was a major factor in changing the way men viewed themselves. “Men have now come to understand that looking good isn’t about vanity—it’s about survival in a lot of ways,” explained Joseph

Scott Grigsby, VP global marketing and creative, Lab Series skin care for men. “In the mancession, men had to go home and blow the dust off their resume, and also work on their personal appearance,” added Katie Gray, Lab Series’ director of global communications. “There was more competition with other men, more women in the workplace and other men entering the workforce.” She added, “It was hard for men to bounce back, and the long cultural shift led to more women in the marketplace—they’re surrounded by very competent women all the time, and men have to keep up.” Indeed, the long-lasting effects of the recession have led to a narrowing of the gender gap, and fewer differences in the expectations placed on men and women, personally and professionally. Crispin Reed, managing director of London’s JDO Brand Design and Innovation, noted the prevalence of today’s “measured man,” a well-rounded

GCI July/August 2016

users are actively seeking products with not only aesthetic benefits, but preventative ones as well. “Prevention is more and more understood, particularly by millennials— the younger generation understands the need for products to preserve the skin capital that they have, to prevent aging from happening,” said Grigsby.

Trying is Believing

individual who is as nurturing and caring as he is professional and progressive.

Prevention is a Core Belief There’s an art to connecting with today’s finely-tuned man. “The two critical factors behind successful advertising are: A razor-sharp positioning that exploits a competitive point of difference; and embedded within this positioning, liberating insights that dig beyond behaviors and attitudes to reveal the true beliefs of the consumer,” said Reed. Today’s consumers’ true beliefs— particularly with millennial men—often trend toward the progressive. They’ve embraced the idea of being proactive rather than reactive when it comes to environmental issues and politics—and they apply the same ideology to their personal selves. According to the NPD Group’s (www. npdgroup.com) 2015 Men’s Grooming Consumer Report, younger facial skin care www.GCImagazine.com

To reach this key market, Lab Series recently held an event for 40 influencers in New York to experience its new Urban Blue Detox Clay Mask. Gray noted, “Because it was the first mask we had launched in a while, we wanted to make a splash and treat them to the ‘timeout moment’ and detoxifying experience, and they could see the benefits immediately.” An added bonus was the uptick gained via social media, from the videos and photos posted by the influencers who loved the mask, plus the other Lab Series products they’ve added to their cabinets since the event. “Men in the U.S. need to expand their skin care regimen a little—they just don’t know they need a product until they try it,” added Gray.

The Power of Relationships Hitting men in the heart can often pay off well. “Brands that successfully talk to the ‘measured man’ are those that can also strike the right tone of voice to validate the contrasting, and sometimes conflicting, emotions that he experiences, appealing to both the ‘hunter’ and the ‘carer,’” said Reed. One brand that has done well in this arena is Unilever’s Dove Men+Care, especially with its “Bonds of Real Strength” campaign. Launched this past March to coincide with the NCAA March Madness college basketball championship season, the campaign featured a series of videos with sports heroes, including past and present University of Connecticut head basketball coaches Jim Calhoun and Kevin Ollie, celebrating the true friendships these men have forged through coaching, competitive sports and cooperation. The Consumer Issue 29

THE CONSUMER ISSUE

“The proverbial white whale is the potential billion-dollar opportunity in mobilizing men to adopt facial skin care,” said Karen Grant, global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group. “The definition of male strength is shifting to include other values, and the care men show for their friends is a big part of that,” said Jennifer Bremner, director of marketing, Unilever, in a statement regarding the campaign. “By celebrating ‘Bonds of Real Strength,’ Dove Men+Care hopes to reveal what male friendship really looks like today, and the maturity, masculinity and care that defines guys’ relationships.”

Look East for What’s Next According to The NPD Group, just 22% of men regularly use facial skin care, meaning this segment has the greatest opportunity for growth. “The proverbial white whale is the potential billion-dollar opportunity in mobilizing men to adopt facial skin care,” said Karen Grant, global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group.

For a preview of what’s on the horizon for Western men’s skin care, brands can look toward Asia. “A lot of times, we at The Estée Lauder Companies look to the Asian man to give us clues on trends,” said Grigsby. “The Asian male is more advanced than the Western male [in adoption of grooming products] and gave himself the permission and the right years ago to have great skin, and uses five to seven products in his regimen. We know they’re starting to use masks in their routine, and gravitating toward sensorial products that provide a cooling sensation, tingling and instant results you can see visibly.” Reed cited South Korea in particular as a country to watch as its men’s skin care market catapults to the top. “South Korea is a very important market when it comes not just to general personal care, but also aesthetic and invasive beauty

To reach the key male grooming market, Lab Series recently held an event for 40 influencers in New York to experience their new Urban Blue Detox Clay Mask.

treatments adopted by men,” he said. “This is a growing area, and more and more men are accepting the idea of invasive treatments to combat the aging process in particular.” n

LISA DOYLE was formerly the associate editor of GCI magazine and is a freelance writer in the Chicago area. Her work has also appeared in Skin Inc. magazine, Salon Today, America’s Best, Renew, Modern Salon and Writer’s Digest.

30 The Consumer Issue GCI July/August 2016

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THE CONSUMER ISSUE

TARGET PRACTICE

Unlocking the true power of your audience streamlines your brand-building efforts and spares you from costs. n BY SHERI L. KOETTING, MSLK

H ∑ Brands that succeed understand their audiences. ∑ A well-targeted brand can more easily develop a voice and well-honed messages. ∑ In addition, proper audience targeting allows brands to focus budgets and messaging on the channels that matter most to their audience.

The Consumer Issue

ave you ever wondered how some brands appear so confident in their efforts, seeming to make swift decisions with ease? These are brands that have an intrinsic sense of who they are and the customers they serve. An essential part of making clear, objective choices is to truly know your customer. These insights allow brands to select where to invest time, energy and dollars in order to provide the best value to their customers. After all, what’s best for your customer is what’s best for your business. Knowing your target audience enables brands to perform effectively.

Objective Design Decisions When making decisions, teams naturally gravitate toward considerations of cost, budget, schedule and other logistical factors. However, many times they are not considering the customer. But if you know what your customers need and what they value, you possess powerful tools to unlock your business potential. This is also helpful during the creative process. We use our customer profiles to

evaluate design options, visuals, etc., turning what could be a subjective evaluation into an objective review. Remember, it is not about you; it is about them.

Selecting the Right Brand Image-makers There is no substitute for brand ambassadors, bloggers and real people to tout the benefits of using your product. Even model imagery can be powerful at setting the overall tone and building inspiration around the brand. However, if your customers cannot identify with the people in these images, your efforts will fall flat.* Knowledge of your audience makes the process of selecting people to represent the brand more meaningful. Instead of *As Global Cosmetic Industry noted last year, Datamonitor Consumer (www.datamonitor.com) has shown that 45% of consumers want their looks to reflect their age, and 55% believe that images of beauty showed on advertising are unrealistic. Consumers are tired of unachievable beauty models that are so ideal they are impossible to reach by regular consumers. Because shoppers feel they are not represented by the current standards of beauty, the logical step is toward something real.

GCI July/August 2016

Retailers also want to see that you have a plan for outreach to build customer awareness. just focusing on the next pretty face, you can ask yourself if that person embodies attributes that your customers possess. Are your customers seeking the reassuring voice of authority? Would straight talk add a breath of fresh air to the conversation? Do they prefer a gentle, more emotional touch? Maybe they’d like to hear real experiences from people just like themselves. The key to unlocking the appropriate brand tone lies in knowing the educational level of your audience. How much time do they typically invest researching your product? Customers who are already familiar with a product category generally respond well to industry lingo. If they are new to the category, you may want to adopt a more friendly tone and lend credibility to your content with real-world feedback from people just like them.

If your multiple audience profiles span a broad range, you may want to have two levels of content on your site—one track which gives a simplified overview and another which digs deeper with more technical content.

Choose Your Message Hand in hand with tone of voice is an understanding of which messages will be most meaningful to your audience. By understanding their biggest desires, you can create copy that speaks to these points directly. These messages might become targeted campaigns or key callouts on your website. If you have several customer profiles, you may begin to look at their shared interests in your products and create top-level copy that calls attention to these key benefits. That information might then be included on individual packages or as a brand-wide tagline.

Are your customers seeking the reassuring voice of authority? Would straight talk add a breath of fresh air to the conversation? www.GCImagazine.com

The Consumer Issue 33

THE CONSUMER ISSUE Pinpoint the Ideal Social Media Platform Not every social media platform is appropriate for every brand. Look at the preferred media of your target audience and layer that with the key messages you are trying to convey. By doing so, you’ll have crucial insight into what platform is right for you. Some messages are best expressed with imagery, some are better with words or video, some are best revealed over time. When you understand who you are trying to reach and which ideas you are trying to convey, you can triangulate the social media platform(s) that are right for your brand. I believe it’s always best to find the right platform, penetrate it successfully and gain a following before considering expanding onto other platforms.

Focus Your Budget If knowing your customer is helpful in narrowing down the choices of social media platforms, you can imagine how critical it is in defining the other marketing

opportunities. From traditional media advertising to tradeshows, events, and other disruptive marketing ideas, there are endless creative ways you can reach customers and no shortage of places to spend money. Knowing your audience allows you to put yourself in their shoes. Consider where they might be most receptive to information. Where might they be most apt to try something new or pause to read a message? How might you be able to pique their interest or introduce them to a need that they might not have even considered? Fully immersing yourself in the experience from your customer’s point of view is a great way to unlock some creative solutions for reaching your audience.

Give Retailers Confidence in You Savvy retailers are going through the exact same exercises as you. They are intimately aware of their shoppers and what they seek. Retail buyers expect to see a clear presentation outlining your product’s appeal and why it’s meaningful to customers.

Retailers also want to see that you have a plan for outreach to build customer awareness. This gives them greater confidence that your product will fly off their shelves. Armed with this data, a retailer can comfortably stock your product. If you cannot provide this information, they will likely ask you to go back and do your homework. As you can see, your brand benefits from knowing your customers. When you don’t, you risk false steps and will surely incur unnecessary costs. Put your target audience first and you will streamline your brandbuilding and marketing process overall. Only then can you become one of those confident brands who are able to make swift and accurate decisions. n

SHERI L. KOETTING is the co-founder and chief strategist of MSLK, a branding agency based in New York. MSLK specializes in helping beauty brands find their voice in today’s crowded marketplace through 360° brand positioning—from overall brand strategy to brand identity, packaging, retail experience, websites and social media campaigns. Contact: sheri@mslk.com

34 The Consumer Issue GCI July/August 2016

THE CONSUMER ISSUE

How millennials are driving innovation toward individualistic, digitized consumers.

∑ Millennials are rewriting the rules with their individualistic purchasing decisions and digitized nature, meaning beauty brands have to rethink their approach to innovation. ∑ These consumers have unprecedented access to celebrities via social media and seek to replicate their looks, while also demanding a direct conversation with the brands that serve them. ∑ Brands can succeed by reaching out to consumers for their input on product facets, leveraging the momentum of social media celebs and providing new means of self-customization.

n BY JAMIE MILLS, ANALYST, CONSUMER INSIGHTS, CANADEAN*

ged 18–34, millennials have a reputation for being more demanding, more savvy and more connected than the generations preceding them. They are anticipated to yield significant global influence over the coming decade and, according to Pew Research (www. pewresearch.org), already account for one in three workers in the United States alone, making them the largest generation in the nation’s workforce.**

Millennials, therefore, offer significant opportunity for beauty brands, particularly as they are the most appearance-conscious age group, according to Canadean’s 2015 research. However, this is not without its challenges. This cohort is rewriting the rules, with their purchasing decisions being driven by their individualistic and digitized nature. As a result, beauty brands have to rethink their approach to effectively meet the needs of this discerning and complex audience.

*jamie.mills@progressivedigitalmedia.com **According to Pew, there are 75.4 million millennials in the United States, with growth driven by immigration of young people.

The Technology Divide Looking at specific behaviors and attitudes, millennials are defined not

THE CONSUMER ISSUE only by their youth but by the societal situation at their point of maturity. Mobile connectivity, the internet and endless information access are all the norm for this cohort. According to Canadean’s research from 2014, 86% of millennials said they owned a smartphone, compared to 75% of 35–54 year olds. This shows that although consumers as a whole are keeping up with the integration of technology into everyday life, millennials are leaping ahead.

Setting the Selfie Standard Social media is an integral feature of millennial lifestyles. The concept of online sharing as well as engagement with imagebased platforms has resulted in a range of behaviors such as selfies becoming commonplace. Consumers are closer to celebrities than ever before through social media platforms such as Instagram. And celebrities have set the “selfie standard,” with flawless appearances in the images they share. This is driving the desire of consumers to replicate this in their own images.

Canadean’s research highlighted that 60% of millennials agreed that they prefer to be unique and stand out from the crowd, compared to just 47% of 35–54 year olds.

Brands Need to Listen This type of sharing has led to greater empowerment of millennials. They want their voices to be heard and influence their peers and the wider online community with their opinion, be it on a product, experience or event. As a result, social media and online communities have removed the barriers to direct brand-

consumer conversations, making this a growing expectation for millennials. This desire is evident in that, according to Canadean’s Q4 global survey 2015, two in five millennials say that they share an update on an activity or experience once a week or more. This places more pressure on brands to effectively listen and engage with these vocal consumers.

A Fascination With Self The world is progressively more globalized, with marketing messages and product offerings increasingly homogenized. Millennials, who are rejecting this phenomenon, seek out alternative solutions that represent their individual style, values and concerns. This sentiment is illustrated by Canadean’s research from 2014, which highlighted that 60% of millennials agreed that they prefer to be unique and stand out from the crowd, compared to just 47% of 35–54 year olds. Therefore, it is essential for brands to appreciate this unique and individual focus.

Authenticity and Uniqueness

Estée Edit, launched earlier this year, leverages the popularity of Kendall Jenner (left) on social media.

This fascination with self has driven a desire for a greater understanding of personal behaviors, be it consumption, state of health or achievement of goals, which can create demand for personalized technologies that can help to inform more effective product choices and personal management. At the same time, millennials’ desire to stand out is behind brands’ quest for customized solutions which can best suit individual consumer needs. This demand for

38 The Consumer Issue GCI July/August 2016

uniqueness also propels the appeal of brand and product authenticity, “real” messages and brand values that align with their own.

Ask Your Customer Many brands have used a combination of these behaviors to inform their brand and product strategy to effectively capture the needs of this audience. One such company is Glossier. The brand developed its Milky Jelly Cleanser by asking the readers of its online magazine and followers on social media what their dream face wash was. Glossier encouraged consumers to give suggestions, from the type of texture and fragrance to product pricing. By doing so, the brand ensured that it conveyed an authentic and genuine message in terms of listening to individual customer opinions, valuing their needs and giving them the satisfaction of turning their ideas into a tangible product.

Photo-ready Beauty Another example is Estée Lauder’s The Estée Edit, launched earlier this year. Predominantly comprising makeup, the range targets millennial-typical behaviors such as sharing selfies online with products including the Flash Photo Powder, designed to make the user “photo-ready.” Similarly, the brand seeks to resonate with this younger audience’s desire to be unique with the slogan “a declaration of who you are and who you make yourself up to be.” By leveraging the popularity of Kendall Jenner

www.GCImagazine.com

Glossier developed its Milky Jelly Cleanser (pictured) by asking the readers of its online magazine and followers on social media what their dream face wash was.

on social media, the brand can effectively speak to a generation of consumers who are connected to this celebrity on social media. The range also places Estée Lauder, whose products often focused on meeting the needs of older age cohorts, in touch with a younger consumer base.

Consumer-created Color Facilitating customization for millennials, the Mink digital make-up pen allows users to transform the colors from any image (for example from a photograph) into a cosmetic using a combined smartphone app and make-up pen device.

The system gives consumers greater freedom in their beauty choices as they are not confined to the cosmetic colors available off the shelf, but can create their own exclusive palettes to suit their personal taste.

This is the Future Millennials will continue to play a leading role in shaping innovation of the future. Their behaviors will influence the generations which follow them and beauty brands will need to ensure that they effectively engage these consumers to better succeed in the rapidly evolving beauty landscape. n

The Consumer Issue 39

THE CONSUMER ISSUE

New research yields foamer packaging concepts that optimize the consumer experience.

∑ Foamer products are popular for their convenience, ease-of-use, sustainability profile and other facets. ∑ Tricorbraun’s research found that design upgrades, such as sturdier vessels and wider finger pads, could enhance foamer packaging for several categories. ∑ It also discovered that, squeeze-foam packaging featuring lock-back closures and other design elements can further enhance the consumer experience.

he consumer’s interaction and experience with personal care products is determined by a complex range of facets, including:

• Aesthetics (i.e., texture and scent); • Performance and experience (i.e., cleaning ability, speed of application for kids, ease of product control and engagement); and • Package size.

Foam formats address several of these factors simultaneously, which is why Tricorbraun recently held a series of indepth consumer panels (see: Qualitative

Focus Group Design) to assess the pros and cons of non-foaming, foaming and squeeze-foaming packaging. The research gauged participants’ interaction with each format and recorded their preferences, needs and wants, and points of satisfaction and dissatisfaction. The resulting insights, which were shared exclusively with Global Cosmetic Industry: • Highlighted gaps between actual and desired performance and functionality • Clearly identified preferred categories; for foaming; and • Highlighted structural design opportunities for the vessel to improve consumer satisfaction and engagement

Why Foam? The reasons behind foam’s popularity are easy to understand. First, the format requires no propellants and less water compared to other categories, which boosts its sustainability profile while lowering costs for manufacturers (less packaging and formula required). For the consumer, foam formats offer convenience in the guise of easy and rapid application (perfect for baby products) and wash-off, and less messiness compared to gels or lotions. In addition, foam products impart a fun factor for children.* As one Tricorbraun panelist noted, “Foam is more fun for them [small children]. … It’s like playing like it’s shaving cream.”

Panelists described squeeze-foam packaging as fun, quick and easy.

*However, foams aren’t without their downsides. While foam is smooth, its gentle texture might lead consumers to feel its cleaning power is relatively low. This perceived lack of substantivity might inhibit the format in facial cleansers, in which it may not feel sufficiently substantial.

With these factors in mind, Tricorbraun’s researchers examined consumer panelists’ attitudes toward foamers to better understand where the technology can best be leveraged and for whom.

www.GCImagazine.com

Foam at Home and On-the-Go The Tricorbraun research concluded that children and moms/women are the primary demographics for foam formats, which are mostly used in the kitchen and

The Consumer Issue 41

THE CONSUMER ISSUE For facial cleansers, panelists’ needs included performance (vessel stability, clog-free dispensing, easy product evacuation and dose flexibility, secure sealing), compact formats and aesthetics (attractive enough to leave out on bathroom counter).

Give It a Squeeze Panelists described squeeze-foam packaging as fun, quick and easy. The ideal applications for squeeze-foam formats include: • Facial skin care • Sun care • Kids products and baby care • Body care • Shampoo • Hair care • Personal hygiene The foam-squeeze format’s fun, kid-friendly aspects are among its greatest advantages, according to the panelists.

bathroom and in travel scenarios (travelsized products), followed by men and teens, in the following applications: • Hand soap • Baby wash • Pet • Automotive Children and baby applications include body wash, shampoo and hand soap, while adult applications include hand soap, facial cleansers and body wash.

Packaging Design Implications In addition to product or category experience, consumer expectations can be shaped by experiences in unrelated segments. For example, the high functionality of a pet care product

might drive a consumer’s expectations in the shampoo category. As a result, Tricorbraun’s research looked across personal care categories, including hand, facial and baby care, the findings of which are applicable in other categories, such as auto and pet care. The panelists tested gel/lotion pump, foam pump and squeeze foamer formats. The packaging facets most desired for hand soap included speed and ease of use (ergonomic/one-handed use/kid-friendly design), clean dispensation, wide finger pad and vessel base, and general visual attractiveness. Baby wash design needs similarly focused on ease of use (one-handed use, fast and easy dispensation, stable vessel), aesthetic excitement (visually attractive and fun for kids) and performance (secure sealing, prevention of water entry).

QUALITATIVE FOCUS GROUP DESIGN Tricorbraun’s foamer qualitative focus groups were screened for the following respondent criteria: • Women age 30–55 • 50% Caucasian and 50% other race • 30% working full time; 70% working part time or not working • 30% have a child three or under; 70% have at least one child four to 10 years

One panelist remarked on the packaging format’s ease of use and functionality: “So for a positive, though, for shampoo or something, you can squeeze it on their head and not have it running all down before you get the soap put away.” The advantages of the foam-squeeze format, according to the panelists, included experience (fun, kid-friendly), functionality and convenience (one-handed use, controlled dose, simple application, prevention of water entry/secure sealing), and aesthetics (modern, attractive). Based on the panelists’ feedback, the ideal squeeze foam format would be invertible, feature a lock-back closure, and be available in traditional and travel sizes.

Applying the Research Tricorbraun’s research concluded that opportunities for better consumer engagement with foamer packaging exist. As mentioned previously, key needs include sturdier bottles, wider finger pads, cleaner dispensing and, in some cases, improved sealing. By leveraging these insights, brands can better engage consumers through their packaging and enhance the overall brand experience. Tricorbraun’s team has noted that these takeaways can be further enhanced with additional ethnographic research that can help brands to customize the research for particular products, lines or consumers. n

42 The Consumer Issue GCI July/August 2016

BEAUTY CHANNELS

Inside Credo’s latest expansion and the future of the natural, organic, vegan and ethical consumer.

∑ The retailer’s motto and selection of natural, organic and vegan skin care, body care and cosmetics feed into several booming beauty categories. ∑ Only with expanded innovation have the makeup and fragrance areas expanded, enabling natural/organic brands to deliver competitive experiences. ∑ Today’s ethical consumer base continues to gain critical mass across the United States and world, creating new opportunities for niche brands that pack an emotional connection.

n BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED, EDITOR IN CHIEF

hen Credo Beauty, an online retailer of “clean” brands, opened its first physical store in San Francisco in 2015, it was following a broader trend that saw pure-play online retailers, such as Violet Grey, expand into the omnichannel, even as brick-and-mortar retailers, such as Sephora, boosted omni-channel tools, such as the Sephora Color IQ. “The flurry of online retailers entering the physical world signifies yet another paradigm shift in beauty retailing,” said Karen Doskow, director of Kline’s

(www.klinegroup.com) consumer products practice, in 2015. “While everyone else has been flocking online, online pure plays are becoming physical. Omnichannel retailing strengthens both ways, as retailers and marketers strive to offer channel-agnostic consumers the convenience of shopping in physical stores and online.”

Clean, Good, Beautiful and Growing Credo Beauty’s promise to consumers is based upon the three pillars of clean (“Ingredients that are safe and healthy.”),

good (“Brands that are sustainable and have ethical sourcing.”) and beautiful (“Product that is effective, looks and feels good.”). The retailer’s motto and selection of natural, organic and vegan skin care, body care and cosmetics feed into several booming beauty categories. For instance, the global organic personal care market is expected to reach $15.98 billion by 2020, according to Grand View Research (www. grandviewresearch.com). Meanwhile, Kline has forecasted the natural personal care market to reach $46 billion by 2018. And, according to Transparency Market Research, the geographically fragmented global organic personal care products market will expand to $13.2 billion by 2018, representing a CAGR of 9.6%. These categories have certainly been aided by the last great recession in the United States, which greatly eliminated over-indulgence and consumption for consumption’s sake. In the wake of the economic turmoil, consumers have focused on authenticity, origin and emotional fulfillment. As a result, they have turned to brands and media outlets that present conscientious consumption without sacrificing functionality, including disruptors, such as Tesla and Shinola, and media outlets, such as mindbodygreen and Well+Good. Given the consumer dynamics and robust growth ahead, it’s no surprise that Credo Beauty is eyeing expansion beyond its pair of retail flagships. In a recent interview with Global Cosmetic Industry (GCI), Shashi Batra, founder and CEO of Credo Beauty, spoke openly about the retailer’s mission, focus and ambitions for future expansion.

Credo Beauty’s promise to consumers is based upon the three pillars of clean (“Ingredients that are safe and healthy.”), good (“Brands that are sustainable and have ethical sourcing.”) and beautiful (“Product that is effective, looks and feels good.”).

Developing the Product Mix Batra, a member of the original team behind Sephora’s launch, said the Prince Street location for the inaugural New York store was chosen for its lively neighborhood feel. Consumers there look to discover new stores and brands, he said, and are ripe to be surprised and delighted. The Credo Beauty team developed a mix of products for the brick-and-mortar stores that have relevance to the clean beauty consumer and no undue overlap. While the assortment Credo Beauty carries in New York mirrors the West Coast location, the emphasis from category to category sometimes varies.

In conversation with Global Cosmetic Industry, Shashi Batra, founder and CEO of Credo Beauty, echoed a common refrain in the natural and organic beauty world, noting that the United States has banned significantly fewer beauty care ingredients compared to the European Union, creating uncertainty among consumers regarding what is natural and what is safe.* Credo Beauty has communicated its commitment by posting a “dirty ingredient” list on its website,** which includes materials, such as mineral oil, coal tar and parabens. The site also includes explanatory text for the reasons behind the exclusions, lending the retailer an extra layer of transparency. Batra added, “We focus on beauty after the ingredient conversation has passed.” *For a counterpoint and deeper read into The Safe Cosmetics Modernization Act, read the Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors’ (ICMAD) “Looming Cosmetics Legislation: What You Need to Know” at www.gcimagazine.com/business/management/regulation/ **http://credobeauty.com/pages/dirtyingredients

www.GCImagazine.com

Building a Competitive Experience Batra explained that while earlier generations of natural/organic beauty brands had to sacrifice style for efficacy or ethics, this is no longer the case. The category was historically focused on skin care and body care as a result of technical limitations. Only with expanded innovation have the makeup and fragrance areas expanded, enabling natural/organic brands to deliver competitive experiences. Indeed, today’s innovators and consumers can have it all. At the same time, natural beauty and personal care products were traditionally sold in venues, such as natural food stores, which lacked experienced staff. Many of the products on display in such venues would tend to have lackluster packaging. The goal of Credo Beauty was to deliver more expertise to shoppers online and in-store, while carrying conscientious brands with a more aspirational positioning. Batra and his team discovered that more than 100 brands met Credo Beauty’s ethical and aesthetic values. As a result, the retailer can easily provide customers with a “clean swap”—a high-quality natural or organic alternative to a conventional product—at numerous price points. Credo Beauty shoppers appreciate its specialization, said Batra, and the level of Beauty Channels 45

BEAUTY CHANNELS

Shashi Batra, founder and CEO of Credo Beauty, spoke openly about Credo Beauty’s mission, focus and ambitions for future expansion.

expertise the staff delivers. This gives the company an advantage over retail giants to service niches.

Meet Your Makers Credo Beauty works closely with brands to maximize relevance and engagement for consumers and fill gaps in current product offerings. For example, eco-luxury brand Plume recently debuted a natural lash and brow growth serum at the retailer, which, “promotes growth and fullness of lashes and brows using 100% natural, non-toxic ingredients without synthetic chemicals.” Batra explained that clean beauty brand leaders are “very passionate makers” that are virtual rock stars to their consumers. This is the result of a more “intimate connection” between brands and consumers, powered by social media and heightened by realness, or authenticity.

Consumers respond to the personal stories and passions behind the brands—illnesses, the birth of a child and so on—which create a potent connection. Unlike traditional brands, which might have once relied on “spin,” Credo Beauty’s brands focus on “saying who you are and being personal,” according to Batra. These, he said, are the disruptors.

No Limit to Growth The retailer supports brands by sharing customer feedback, sales trends and inspiration for new products that fill a particular gap in the current mix. This led GCI to question whether the retailer, which knows its customers better than anyone, might one day launch its own private label products. Batra countered that it is “difficult to do one thing well, and almost impossible to

do multiple [things] well.” With its plate full, Credo Beauty is cognizant of gaps that need to be filled in relation to conventional brands—but nothing is in the works at the moment. Instead, Credo Beauty is focused on continued expansion. Batra noted that, as the clean beauty “movement” and its mantra of sacrificefree conscientious consumption spreads, more and more communities in the United States will have the momentum to support retailers like Credo Beauty. The retailer will pursue new locations—including within other Manhattan neighborhoods—where there is sufficient critical mass. That momentum is likely to continue to grow, creating new reach for ethical beauty. n

46 Beauty Channels GCI July/August 2016

THE INDUSTRY LEADER IN PATCH TESTING TEST WITH THE BEST! • FDA REGISTERED •

“THE FINE ART OF PERSONAL SERVICE”

INGREDIENTS & CLAIMS How Does It Feel?

rands are looking for new concepts, textures and formats that offer performance and novelty and help them stand out to consumers. This was the focus of Croda’s recent open-house corresponding to the 2016 NYSCC supplier’s day in New Jersey.

Beauty Ice Cream The company presented a range of formulations that have been performance- and stability-tested for new and unique effects in formulations. An ice cream emulsion provided a cooling sensation to skin while imparting hydration. The formulation contained Arlacel, Crodamol and Volarest and had a light and fresh feel upon application.

Pollution Defense A pollution defense pressed serum had the appearance of a gel and the richness of a cream, providing a smooth glide on skin. The formulation, which contained Crodamol SSA, ViscOptima SE and Volarest FL, repairs and smooths skin.

Smoky Eye A vibrant matte smoky velvet eye shadow had a silky, cushiony skin feel and long-lasting moisturization activity. A body cloud moisturizer

was easily absorbed in the skin without a greasy feel, while a marshmallow facial cleanser had an indulgent feel that left the skin soft and smooth.

Getting Inspired Croda’s global teams collaborate on trends and formulations to maximize relevance. For instance, its pre-shampoo oil primer borrowed inspiration from Indian rituals. The formulation is intended to be used prior to shampooing to maintain moisture during shampooing. The company is also tracking the rise of food ingredients in beauty and personal care—including peas, chia seed and goji berry—as well as their resonance with health and wellness consumers. This is exemplified by its almond milk yogurt, which fortifies the hair against damage and moisturizes the scalp.

K-beauty and Clouds Croda is also following the trend of elaborate Korea-based skin care rituals. As a result, its teams have created a skin highlighting cream that creates new highlights on the user’s face. The company has also developed a skin tightening primer for smoother, tighter skin. The idea is to allow consumers to look like themselves—but better. The company’s body cloud moisturizer—which had a watery and light texture upon application for quick-breaking high delivery of moisture—was developed by its Brazilian team, offering a unique texture with just a handful of ingredients, including Crodamol IPIS, ViscOptima SSA and ViscOptima SE. This formulation efficiency is critical as cost and sustainability demands grow around the world. This sustainability approach focuses less on naturals than on becoming greener overall, for instance employing RSPO palm oil and improving the total sustainability profile of products. The company’s forthcoming Atlas Point plant will also boost Croda’s green positioning.

The Limits of Trend Transfer

The open house included a tour of Croda’s new facilities, which were recently expanded.

Croda’s experts cautioned that sensory preferences are highly specific to cultures. For instance, South Korea has very light textures for some products at the early stages of 10-step rituals, which may not translate to the United States since those consumers use fewer steps. The key is to listen to the consumer and formulate accordingly. n

NYSCC: Unlocking Beauty Care Innovation

he NYSCC Supplier’s Day in Edison, New Jersey, featured a range of suppliers and ingredients. During the event Green Biologics announced that it is constructing a facility to produce renewable n-butanol and acetone. The n-butanol, combined with naturally derived acids, can produce esters for the cosmetic and personal care industry. The bio-acetone is being touted as an alternative to petroleum-based acetone. Here, Global Cosmetic Industry presents a small sampling of the innovations on display.

New Shea Sonneborn LLC launched Shea X Active Base Emollient—shea functionalized petrolatum, composed of a highly concentrated,

physically optimized matrix of shea butter and petrolatum. Shea XP offers the skin benefits of shea butter for a wide range of markets and applications.

Hair and Moisture Lonza presented the foam-boosting Polyaldo 10-1-CC polyglyceryl ester for personal care surfactant cleansing systems such as baby shampoos, hand washes and facial cleaners. BASF displayed Plantasil 4V, a cost-efficient compound with a strong conditioning effect for shampoos. The ingredient improves wet combing and sensorial performance on different hair types, according to the company, equivalent to those of siliconecontaining benchmarks.

48 Ingredients & Claims GCI July/August 2016

Dow Corning’s Dow Corning 3901 Liquid Satin Blend for leavein hair care formulations was originally launched for skin care. The ingredient is intended for high-performance hair care that offers curl retention, smoothness, shine, stylability, enhanced dry combing, and frizz and static control. The ingredient was demoed in a range of applications, including anhydrous serum, water-in-oil cream, water-insilicone cream, oil and water phased spray and oil-in-water soft wax. AkzoNobel’s ElfaMoist AC humectant is appropriate for longlasting skin care products. The material can deliver skin hydration that lasts for 30 hours.

Stay Preserved Schülke & Mayr GmbH introduced euxyl K 940 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin), which serves as a liquid cosmetic preservative. Combining preservative actives with the emollient and booster, in addition to having stability to hydrolysis and pH, this globally approved ingredient delivers a product for a wide range of formulation types. The ingredient has efficacy against bacteria, yeast and mold. Another benefit includes having a mild, liquid blend for leave-on products such as wet wipes.

Get That Feeling Shin-Etsu introduced its KSG-710 emulsifying silicone elastomer, which allows for quick-breaking creams and a soft skin feeling, making it suited for skin care and makeup applications. The material was demoed in a moisture surge lipstick, in which the ingredient created an optical blurring effect. Evonik presented its organo-modified silicone emulsifier ABIL Care XL 80 and polyglyceryl-based ISOLAN GPS. The ingredients can be applied to light sprays and rich creams.

White Peony-like Aceto Corp.’s inter’actifs cosmetic division introduced an active ingredient, WhitePeoD, which functions like vitamin D in lotions and gels. WhitePeoD is a white peony flower extract rich in kaempferol glycoside and activates vitamin D receptors, stimulating occludin and claudin synthesis and improving the barrier function, making it applicable in antiaging and moisturizing formulations for sensitive skin. The Chinese-compliant white peony extract helps reduce transepidermal water loss of dry, rough skin in people suffering from a lack of vitamin D. n www.GCImagazine.com

Ingredients & Claims 49

PACKAGING INNOVATIONS Zanders has launched Zanpack, a new range of boards crafted from FSC-certified and sustainable pulp with a special surface and pure whiteness used to bring out the full intensity of printing inks. The range includes three grades: Zanpack silk, Zanpack silk2 and Zanpack touch, which are aimed to be eye-catching on the shelf and to feel good to the touch. Zanpack silk is double-coated on one side, with a smooth surface and matte silk touch. It also has a special lick coating on the reverse. Zanpack silk2 is two-side double-coated grade, producing identical print results on both top and reverse sides, ideal for premium items. Zanpack touch has an uncoated surface, giving it a grainier, more natural touch suitable for brands that emphasize organic and natural properties, or an individual and hand-crafted feel. n

Qosmedix has introduced two 5-ml travel-friendly fragrance bottles featuring a refillable base that allows users to transfer liquids without using a traditional funnel or pipette. Available in two styles, the refillable spray bottle (Part # 29394) and refillable roller ball bottle (Part # 29395) allow consumers to easily create their own travel size version of their favorite scent. These items are packed with a separate adapter piece, which will help them fit almost any perfume bottle. These fragrance bottles can also be used in a retail setting to create travelsize promotional giveaways during special events. n

VariBlend’s Fusion Pod dispenser is a multi-element system the keeps actives apart—in a self-contained pod—from the main ingredient until the moment of usage. This packaging is suitable in a variety of regimen-based product categories that deliver a different multi-element formula over time. For example, categories include skin care, sunless tanning, hair care or products that require ingredient separation or precise mixing and blending at the moment of application. n

VHS tapes, which went the way of the dinosaur in the wake of DVDs and streaming services, are getting a new shelf life as fragrance keepsake packaging. LA fragrance house Xyrena’s CEO and perfumer, Killian Wells, has combined the art of fragrance and packaging by releasing extrait de parfum in collectible, retro VHS (branded XHS by Xyrena) keepsake cases. The videotape packaging of these XHS cases aligns with Xyrena’s socially responsible sustainability mission. XHS packaging utilizes original, retrofitted molds used decades ago by major film studios like Disney and Fox. Four new fragrances were released in the XHS format, including Basic Bitch, Pool Boy, Hellanut and Cinemaniac, and come presented in a black clamshell case disguised as a video cassette, complete with cover art inspired by the fragrance inside. n

Innovation and breaking news daily: Subscribe to GCI’s newsletter at www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter 50 Packaging Innovations GCI July/August 2016

PACKAGING INNOVATIONS

It’s Time to Think Pink

Redken used pink for its Pillow Proof Blowdry Two Day Extender and Express Primer.

Pantone has nominated pink the color for 2016 in a light transparent rose quartz version.

Pink can be theatrical, dreamy, rare and luxurious, making it ideal for packaging designers. Pantone has nominated pink the color for 2016 in a light transparent rose quartz version, which has triggered a chain reaction, according to Milan-based Icma, which specializes in finishes for paper and card for packaging. This pink revolution comes following a period in which the hue was relegated to perfumery and confectionery, characterized “mostly in simpering, delicate and lyrical tones,” according to Icma. Now, pink is at a turning point. For instance, Juicy Couture featured pink in packaging its fragrance Viva La Juicy Rosé, Redken used the color in its Pillow Proof Blowdry Two Day Extender and Express Primer, and Victoria’s Secret used pink to make it Eau So Sexy. n

52 Packaging Innovations GCI July/August 2016

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Products and Services Showcase 55

AD INDEX The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.

PAGE

ADVERTISER

PHONE

WEB SITE

AMA Laboratories, Inc.

1-845-634-4330

www.amalabs.com

Baralan USA

1-718-849-1600

www.baralanusa.com

BASF

1-973-245-6000

www.carecreations.basf.com

Bioscreen Testing Services

1-310-214-0043

www.bioscreen.com

Centerchem, Inc.

1-203-822-9800

www.centerchem.com

Classic Cosmetics, Inc

1-818-773-9042

www.classiccosmetics.com

Clinical Research Labs, Inc.

1-732-981-1616

www.crlresearchlabs.com

Coast Southwest, Inc.

1-714-524-2777

www.coastsouthwest.com

Compax Packaging

1-888-550-8050

www.compaxpackaging.com

Diamond Cosmetics

1-954-572-3462

www.diamondcosmetics.com

East Hill Industries, Inc.

1-972-367-6060

www.packagingcosmetics.com

Fenchem Biotek Ltd.

86-2584-572-922

www.fenchem.com

Fusion Packaging

1-214-747-2004

www.fusionpkg.com

Gordon Laboratories, Inc.

1-310-327-5240

www.gordonlabsinc.com

HCP Packaging

1-203- 924-2708

www.hcpackaging.com

JSN Packaging Products, Inc.

1-949-458-0050

www.jsn.com

Lady Burd

1-800-345-3448

www.ladyburd.com

Lipotec, LLC

1-201-850-1213

www.lipotec.com

Luxe Pack Monaco

33-4-7473-1693

www.luxepack.com

Mane USA

1-973-633-5533

www.mane.com

McKernan Packaging Clearing House

1-775-356-6111

www.mckernan.com

Pilot Chemical Co.

1-513-326-0600

www.pilotchemical.com

Simplex Filler Co., Inc.

1-707-265-6801

www.simplexfiller.com

Spectra Colors Corp.

1-201-997-0606

www.spectracolors.com

Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc.

1-800-985-2228

www.sundeepinc.com

Unique Distinctions Inc.

1-877-898-1538

www.uniquedistinctionsinc.com

Welch Holme & Clark Co., Inc.

1-973-465-1200

www.welch-holme-clark.com

Cover 4

Cover 2

5 Cover 3

17, insert 53 3

56 Ad Index GCI July/August 2016

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