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The book you’re holding is the second chapter in our Self Made story. The second part in our campaign to travel the world, meeting the inspirational, hard-working guys and girls that are changing cities the world over. And this time we went Stateside. To celebrate our new Spring/Summer 2013 line, we packed up and headed out to New York City. An iconic and groundbreaking city that draws people in and never lets them go, NYC was the obvious place for us to track down the people making it happen. For anyone determined to succeed, the city can give you the world, but it takes everything in return. And here in these smog filled streets, nestled between the skyscrapers, we captured the stories and the lives of those who’ve given it their all in our new film Self Made NYC. The campaign, a love letter to the city and a fearless manifesto of what exactly it means to make it on your own, features some of New York’s most exciting creatives and shows a side to the city you won’t see in the tour guides.
simply what you make it.
SS / 2013
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So here is Self Made NYC. And, as always, this is for the ones that understand that life is
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Mens Collection:
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Modelled on the streets of NY’s creative capital, Williamsburg.
WILLIAMSBURG PHOTOS: Ben Rayner Photogr aphy Assistant: Adam Gong Producer: Abby Bralove STYLING: Kylie Griffiths Make-up: Erin Green Hair: Darine Sengseevong MODELS: Tristan, Malik, Joe
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t-shirt bmga2985 postcard shorts bmla0141 aigburth 7
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8 vest bmga3055 gilnow trousers bmna1236 calderstones
t-shirt bmga2761b juror b jeans bmma0229-3 output v3 9
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trousers bmna1221c kilburn c t-shirt bmga2823 kogmore 11
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shorts bmaa0264-10264-1 vest bmga3051 manser 13
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knitwear bmfa1135 billybank
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shirt bmaa1094b moston b
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Spend just a few minutes in the company of the British photographer Ben Rayner and
BEN RAYNER: SHOOTING FROM THE HIP
you’ll wonder why he’s not the person having his portrait taken all the time. A bundle of manic energy with rock’n’roll tattoos and long red hair, he’s the embodiment of selfmotivation and his infectious enthusiasm for his work leaves you feeling inspired and full of ideas. It’s easy to see why his vivid photos look so full of life. Like all professionals who make their work appear effortless, Ben puts in hours of preparation and research before each job. As the saying goes: Fail to prepare, prepare to fail. A full-time freelancer, Ben has always worked for himself and this means he appreciates the value of each job that comes his way, whatever the size. Having made a name for himself in London shooting editorial and fashion for the likes of VICE and Vogue, Ben moved to New York a year ago to pursue his work Stateside, contributing to Nylon magazine and producing
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content for ASOS and Adidas, among dozens of others. In his spare time, Ben runs a boutique publishers for limited-edition zines called Rayner Books and sometimes drums in the punk band Throwing Up. For the Bench shoot, Ben and his two assistants worked 60 hours over four days – that’s 15 hours each day – and submitted a staggering 15,000 images for consideration. What’s his secret? “Eat lots of protein,” he says.
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Where have you been up to this last year?
Do you ever take time off, or are you always
Ben Rayner: A total mix of everything. I’ve
kind of working and shooting?
been fortunate enough to work on a lot of great
I am always working in some way or another.
projects this year, a mix of personal, branded
I do travel a lot, but this is often for work.
and editorial for a number of great people. What are the basic steps you take to get a Do you enjoy living in New York?
shoot like this off the ground?
I grew up in London so it’s a nice change. I
I am always prepared with my equipment
visit London very often so it good to have both.
and make sure that assistants are briefed. It’s important to take charge and direct
Being a freelance photographer, how self-
models also.
motivated would you say you have to be? You have to be really self-motivated and
Do you usually need an assistant to work
proactive and can’t ever take anything for
with you, or do you prefer to work solo?
granted. No job should be considered a
I usually have one or two assistants. This job
‘small’ job. You can never expect things to
was fairly intense so we constantly needed to
just come to you. Self-promotion is very
dump cards of shots as we shot a lot.
important and reminding people who you are! You’ve been living in NYC for a while now – What motivates you?
how was it shooting the Bench campaign in
LIFE! Life inspires me. I walk around a lot and
the city? Did you find new locations, did you
find motivation and inspiration in everything
surprise yourself?
around me. I am constantly creating work for
I am always on the look-out for suitable
myself alongside commissions.
locations for future shoots. I often cycle BENCH. SS/2013
around looking for places that I feel haven’t
which is part of the fun, but the final images
been used so much. This shoot was a mix of
tend to match my initial vision.
familiar locations and some new ones but shot in a way so that they aren’t necessarily
How ambitious should you be when shooting
instantly recognisable.
or planning something like this, or it always best to be realistic about these things?
Where’s your favourite place to eat in NYC?
It’s important to be realistic for sure, but one
Takahashi, this amazing Japanese restaurant
should never be afraid to experiment.
in the East Village. What are you working on next year? And your favourite bar, or place to have
A new personal book, lots of travel, and
a party?
starting a long-term project.
Max Fish is my local. I also DJ Wednesdays at Lit Lounge which is fun. I also like
Do you have any projects that you want to
Forgetmenot and Clandestino.
get stuck into? Yes, but they are all a big hush-hush!
Does the finished version of the shoot generally match with the vision you had in
www.benrayner.com
your head at the beginning? Usually a few surprises present themself
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11th STREET WORKSHOP
a closer look at New York’s hidden work stations
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Helmed by production veterans and brothers Anthony and Lou Asaro, 11th Street Workshop is a powerhouse working with a diverse array of clients with everything from set design and construction to custom fabrication, production, prop styling and more. With a massive second floor workspace above the main workshop, a formidibly jam-packed prop room and a cavernous studio space onsite, it’s no 24
wonder that 11th Street tackles everything from fashion photography projects to custom cabinets and residential construction. They
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are even working on a “redneck motorized
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recliner” fusing a cushy old sofa with a scooter and a fridge custom built for a sixpack for one lucky client. www.11thstworkshop.com 8
1. PROJECTS
2. MATERIALS
3. POWER
4. SAWING AREA
We have lots of our work
We store a large quantity
Hanging extension cords
These table saw areas are
kicking around the studio. It’s
and variety of materials so
positioned throughout
set up for cutting the sheet
important to keep the floor
that we’re ready to fabricate
the workshop allow us to
goods stored along the rear
clear; our unfinished work is
just about anything at a
reconfigure and get power
wall.
kept on racks in the back.
moment’s notice.
where it’s needed.
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5. FIRE EXTINGUISHERS
6. WALL RACK SYSTEM
7. DUST EXTRACTION
8. TROLLEY
When you work with lots of
There’s always music
The pipes running along the
We use these trollies to
wood, paints, solvents, and
pumping in our workshop.
ceiling are the shop’s dust
move props and tools around
also welding tools, things can
There’s all kinds of people
collection system.
the workshop to allow the
get ugly pretty quickly.
working here, so we listen to
staff to divide and conquer
a lot of different kinds.
projects more efficiently.
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Dorland Studio
Chris Dorland is a Canadian artist based in New York City. His studio, located in North Brooklyn, is ground zero for the conception and execution of his photomechanical paintings. Building original
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works by copying imagery and then duplicating these copies, Dorland assembles collages from found images, scans and prints them through multiple iterations, and then uses these heavily processed assemblages as the basis for his paintings. Mechanical reproduction technologies are a crucial component in Dorland’s process of 26
distancing the images he selects from their original sources. 5 www.chris-dorland.com
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1. UNTITLED 1
2. UNTITLED 2
3. Image trash pile
4. Riso Rz-220
This large piece is a new
A painting in progress. I
Source material that sort of
The Riso is a high-speed
collage. It’s a study for a
still need to add a silver
festers in piles around the
digital printing system from
large painting commission
gradient to it. You can see a
studio.
Japan. It’s sort of a cross
I’m working on with the Art
test version taped above the
between an off-set litho press
Production Fund.
painting.
and a copy machine.
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7. STORAGE RACK
8. Flying Pigeon BIKE
For handling chemicals and
Ronan and One Shot enamel
I love that bike.
paints.
sign paints. Hoards of cans of
5. Photosmart Printer
6. Nitrile Gloves
I use this printer to produce paper copies for use in collage.
spray paint, automotive paint and HVLP spray gun set ups.
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THRONE
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OF BLOOD
Located within a disused brewery in East Williamsburg, Throne of Blood Studio is home to a close knit group of friends including Max Pask and Andrew Potter of Populette, Kim Ann Foxman (ex-Hercules and Love Affair), and Brian Hersey. This studio is set up to allow these four musicians to string a diverse collection of new and vintage electronic instruments together in order to record collaborative jam sessions. Whereas much electronic music eschews live performance in favor of carefully constructed perfection, the output from Throne of Blood embraces the spontaneous, 28
improvisational serendipity that can emerge from unconventional combinations of equipment and ideas. www.throneofbloodmusic.com
1. MINIMOOG MODEL D
2. THE HUB
3. Mackie 32-8 Desk
4. Arp 2600 Synthesizer
A total classic and famous for
Assorted compressors, filters
Our old faithful. A bit worse
The rarest and most
being the first synthesizer to
and effects units, as well as
for wear, but crucial.
impressive bits of kit in the
be widely sold to musicians.
two patchbays for linking up
studio. One of these was
all the kit in the studio.
used to create R2D2’s voice in Star Wars.
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5. Moog Source
6. Bob Moog
7. Daft Punk
8. Poo and Pee plushies
A classic but deeply flawed
Action Figure of synthesizer
Daft Punk action figures to
Always there to let us know
80’s era synth.
pioneer Bob Moog is always
supervise studio sessions.
when something is total shit.
here for inspiration.
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Alchemy Paintworks
Brooklyn’s Alchemy Paintworks has operated for the past several years from a landmarked building off of Bushwick Avenue. Founded by Jason Brown after a decade spent running Jeff Koons’ stateof-the-art sculpture painting facilities, Alchemy employs techniques learned from his work with world-renowned fabricators and restorers, as well as his extensive
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research and experimentation with the latest materials and technology. Fusing art and science into a seamless whole, Alchemy now lends its unique expertise to a wide range of established artists, working in
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partnership with them to bring their singular creative vision to life.
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1. TOOLS
2. COFFEE CUPS
3. CABINETS
4. VACUUM
Workspaces littered with
A lot of coffee gets
These cabinets and flat files
This is an industrial vacuum
transfer tape, Xacto knives
consumed in the shop every
hold every kind of sandpaper
for cleaning up dust
and burnishers for masking
day. It’s essential fuel for
grit imaginable, from 40 to
produced by sanding
off areas to receive different
some very painstaking work.
diamond dust.
finishes or colors.
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5. PAINT MIXING
6. CHEMICALS
7. BUSY WORK
8. DIVIDERS
This cabinet is actually a
These yellow storage
The staff here are hard
The dividers separating the
paint mixing apparatus.
cabinets along the far wall
at work on a restoration
room are made of industrial
It contains disposable
contain all the various
job. They are sanding and
plastic and .09 micron filters.
containers filled with custom
chemicals used in our work.
cleaning in preparation for
mixtures for each project.
paint application.
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The filmmaker Ben Fries had his work cut
BEHIND THE SCENES: Director Ben Fries
Do you need to be well organised to shoot
out when he shot the documentary for Bench.
a film such as this one, or do you rely on
Tasked with telling the story of a regular day
others to be organised on your behalf?
in the lives of five busy New Yorkers, we
Ben Fries: All you can do is be as prepared
gave him just two days in which to squeeze
as possible and then once the shoot starts be
the entire shooting schedule, crossing all
ready to improvise. Nothing ever goes exactly
four corners of the city. That meant a lot of
as planned but if you’ve thought everything
running around town with his crew in a bid
through in advance then it’s much easier to
to film the subjects in various locations as
think on you feet. For this particular film,
they went about their daily routine in his
we were capturing “a day in the life” of five
intricately-crafted video piece. No matter
people in two days so organisation was really
how much preparation goes into it, filming
important in terms of coordinating everyone’s
on the streets is always unpredictable. And
schedules and making sure that we could get
Hurricane Sandy was just around the corner.
to where we needed to be at the right time.
Fortunately this wasn’t the first time Ben
The schedule was extremely tight and we had
had used his hometown as a backdrop. In
a few hiccups along the way but we were
his acclaimed video for the song ‘Cyan’ by
able to keep things moving and get everything
the British musician Kindness, Ben shot the
we needed.
singer on the streets of the East Village, while an earlier promo for the band Holy Ghost!
When you got the brief, did you storyboard
depicts a freeze frame timeline of their life in
the shoot?
NYC. He may know the city like the back of
I generally don’t do storyboards, especially
his hand, but on such an intense shoot, Ben
for a documentary-style shoot like this. When
needed his best team around him.
you’re dealing with real people and observing them doing what they do, you have to see
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what’s happening in the moment and let that dictate your shots. What I do think about is the locations we’ll be shooting in. If possible, I try to see the locations in advance so that I’m able to visualise how to shoot in the space: where is the light coming from, what are the most interesting angles, that kind of thing. How do you go about assembling a team to work with you? I have a team of people that I like to work with. On a film set it’s important to surround yourself with good people who you trust. How important is it to have good relations with the team, or is it more a case of relying on everyone being professional and simply getting the job done? Both are important. I feel you usually get the job done better if you are able to have good relationships with the team but you also don’t want to crew up with your buddies just because you like to hang out with them. Again, you have to trust your crew to do their jobs well because that allows you to focus and do your job well.
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With your work, would you say it’s best to be ambitious or should you have a more realistic outlook? It’s always good to be ambitious. As you start planning and figuring out the logistics, you’re always going to face limitations but you deal with that then. Hopefully you can use those limitations to steer the work in interesting new ways. What hours were you working each day on this shoot? We worked roughly from 7am until 10pm. Long days, even thought it only lasted for two of them. We had to cram in a lot of shooting. How do you get through the shoot in one piece? I drink a lot of coffee. Watch the film at: www.benchselfmade.com
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“Me, Sesse Lind (the Director of Photography) and the rest of the crew hanging precariously from a moving car, filming Jeff Henrikson riding the streets of Brooklyn.”
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“Getting whipped up in a breeze as we shoot Sunny on the East River Ferry.”
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“They may be similar in style but no two of Jack’s work are the same. It was fascinating to capture him working.”
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“The subway is the fastest way, unless you want to play dare devil on a bike, of getting around the city. We took it across the river with Kish.�
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together. You can see them working together in the film.�
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“Jeff and Kish have worked together before and we wanted to capture the chemistry of them
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“Jack Greer’s more devoted to his dog, Iggy, than anyone I’ve ever met. He even has a picture of him tattooed on his chest.”
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“Rufus...always keeping it positive”
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Womens Collection: Shot at the foot of the bridge into the city
GREENPOINT PHOTOS: Ben Rayner Photogr aphy Assistant: Adam Gong Producer: Abby Bralove STYLING: Kylie Griffiths Make-up: Erin Green Hair: Darine Sengseevong
vest blga2616 baycroft short blla0114 eafield
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MODELS: Dayna, Lauren, Kendall
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vest blga2629 chalfont
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jeans blma0254-7 pick v7 heavy top blea3156 allanshaw
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shorts BLLA 0111-1 DUET vest blga2583 bright again jacket blka1562 retro cag
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jacket blka1667 etherington top blga2582 danceaway
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vest BLGA 2613 DUNSLEY
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jacket blka1671 JENNING dress blsa1425 PATCHADAM
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t-shirt blga2581 thardor skirt blda0952 soo cute
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dress blsa1482 calbourne
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jacket blka1539b alberta b t-shirt blga2527 thenagain shorts BLLA 0111-9 DUET V9
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jeans blma0270-2 drumming t-shirt blga2549 sixfive jacket blka1523c fletcher c
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shorts blla0098-5 songbird v5 t-shirt blea3265 ackersley
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jeans blma0270-15 drumming v15 t-shirt blga2527 thenagain
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shirt BMAA1080B DEANSGATE B
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Once upon a time, the weary and poor of
PROFILES
New York would head for Brooklyn. Rough around the edges, the borough became the destination for immigrants looking for a new life and a fresh start in America. In recent
JACK HENRY
years, like many deprived areas in major cities, the artists began moving to the area, attracted by cheap rent and large studio spaces. The neighbourhood’s diverse cultural and social mix made it fertile ground for a burgeoning creative community who soon gentrified the area and stimulated the local economy. In the heart of this hotspot, nestled on a quiet street in Bushwick, we find the studio of fast-rising artist Jack Henry, whose provocative paintings and abstract sculpture are creating quite a buzz in the art world.
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What is it that you do?
Was there a heavy influence from your
Jack Henry: I’m a sculptor who uses
family on what you do?
found objects and cast materials to make
My dad is the director of the museum in Flint,
monuments in honour of post-industrial
Michigan, my hometown, and my mum is an
America. I also work part-time as a freelance
interior designer. So art and aesthetics have
art installer, making pedestals and stretchers
always been a focus in my family. Growing
for other artists.
up, I was always playing with Lego, building
I want my work to look like something
a tree fort, drawing or making videos with
found, as if carved out of some unknown time
friends, but I didn’t start making art seriously
and place. The theme in all my work centres
until I was in college.
around an idea that our objects will become the artefacts of our time. I’m retracing my
How did you learn the skills you needed to
steps, picking up objects that have been left
do what you do?
behind, and thinking about moments in my life
I think that any skills I’ve learned have come
that I’ve seen common curiosities: a roadside
out of necessity. I had an idea that I wanted to
memorial, a tattered billboard or a random
execute and had to figure out how to make it.
collection of objects in an empty lot that when combined create a poetic moment that
When you look back at your earlier work,
transcends the original purpose of each object.
how do you feel about it? I’ve always made things, but a lot of the stuff when I was growing up was pretty random. Most of the work I did in high school and college I wouldn’t want to show people now. But, occasionally I’ll go home and come across a little painting that I did as a kid and kind of like it.
It’s always tough picking up freelance work. Sometimes I don’t get a call until the night before and may not have many details until I get there. But being freelance does allow me a lot of time to be in the studio and I can turn down jobs if I have a show coming up or a commission where I need extra time. Why you end up in Brooklyn? I moved to New York on July 4, 2010 – about two and a half years ago. I moved straight to Bushwick and have been there ever since. I graduated from the University of Maryland and was going to be looking for work wherever I ended up living. So I moved to New York because of the opportunities. There are so many galleries, artist-run spaces and pop-up shows with really good work in them. How are the people around you important when you’re trying to make it? There is a great community of artists in Bushwick and I think I benefit from being around people who are serious about the art they make. There are so many artists making good work all the time that it motivates me BENCH. SS/2013
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How does going solo affect your lifestyle?
to get back in the studio. Plus, I figured that if there was an audience out there that would appreciate my work, with all the people in New York, I should be able to find that audience here. Do you think you’d be at the point you’re at in your career if it you didn’t live here? I feel like there is a sense of urgency in New York that I didn’t feel in other places. Time seems to move a little faster, and I get more done. And there are a lot of things to do in the city. I’m never bored. Does the city influence your work? Well, for me, it provides a wealth of discarded objects. There is never a shortage of things to pick up that inspire a piece. And I see the best art in the world. The museums are excellent and there are tons of galleries. In one afternoon I can see a variety of exciting artwork that I didn’t have access to in smaller places. Where are your favourite spots? There are some great bars in my area: 58
Bodega, Pearl’s and Miles. I can always manage to have a good evening with my friends and girlfriend. And I like going to Chelsea to check out what’s new at the galleries. But it’s New York City and one of the best things about it is there is always someplace cool that I haven’t been to. It never feels like the same routine. www.Jackhenryartist.com
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PROFILES
SUNNY SHOKRAE
Even if you’ve never been to New York, you
How do you spend your time in the city that
know exactly what the place looks like. The
never sleeps?
Big Apple has to be the most photogenic
Sunny Shokrae: Taking photos, looking at
city in the world and thanks to cinema and
photos, fixing photos, storing photos, backing
TV, endless images of sparkling skyscrapers,
up hard-drives. When that’s all done and I
yellow taxis and jets of steam rising poetically
feel good for the day, I’m all about watering
from the subway are burned into our minds
my plants, exploring the city I live in, making
from an early age. It’s one giant film set, and
trouble and remembering to call my family at
whether we like it or not, each of us falls in
least once a week.
love with NYC at some point.
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With its iconic skyline up top and
Which path led you here?
tremendous energy down below, it’s little
When I was young I got into photography
wonder that photographers travel here from
to keep an archive of my personal history
all over the world not just to snap away at
as it was happening. It was a way for me to
the famous sites, but to seek inspiration in
visually communicate the admiration and
every corner of every deli and bond with like-
affection I felt towards the people and things
minded souls. Iranian-born photographer
around me.
Sunny Shokrae was one such person who
It quickly turned into something that I
made the journey towards the bright lights
never stopped doing. I was mostly self-taught,
and over the last four years she’s made
and eventually after a degree in politics
the city her own. Her candid approach to
and working for a few years in LA, I moved
verité photography has been celebrated
to New York to do an intensive year-long
in VICE magazine and Sunny has recently
programme at ICP [International Center of
collaborated with fashion houses Opening
Photography] in photography. I’ve just been
Ceremony and Vena Cava.
learning and growing ever since, whether from a job I just did or the people around me doing the same thing. It’s always evolving and getting better and better. What is it about photography that you love? I can’t imagine doing anything else. It’s amazing to visually relate to, excite, inform or communicate with people I’ve never met and never will meet. It’s a way to talk to the world however you want to. It’s endlessly satisfying and the day that it isn’t anymore, I will find a better or new way to do it.
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How do you keep yourself motivated when managing your own career? You have no one but yourself to kick your ass into gear. You have to create your world, to meet the people that facilitate and nurture your work. And you have to know the business side as well as the creative side. But the feeling you get after you nail a project or assignment or shoot ¬makes you feel so accomplished and driven to move on to the next thing and nail that too. What role has the city played in pushing you to succeed? I moved here in May 2008 because it’s the place to be if you’re pursuing photography as a career. There are so many doors to open; there’s so much going on. There are so many people doing exactly what you’re doing that it really pushes you to work your ass off and try to set yourself apart. It’s a constant motivation and the resources and opportunities here are endless. You just have to make it happen. I’ve learned a lot about what I do and who I am by being here, but I think that happens with any big change or move. I assumed I 62
would only last in NYC two years max, but every year that goes by makes it harder to imagine living anywhere else. It sucks you in pretty hard. Where are your favourite spots? It’s an impossible question as it’s constantly changing. I love it all. Which cameras do you always carry in your kit bag? The list is long, but if I were to name four that are always in rotation, they’d be: Canon 5D, Mamiya 7, Hasselblad 500C/M and the Yashica T5. www.sunnyshokrae.tumblr.com
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NEW YORK SPRING AWAKENING BENCH. SS/2013
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A PHOTO STORY BY CHLOE AFTEL
Creatives from around the world make the journey to New York to be inspired by its imposing streets and driven inhabitants. We asked Chloe Aftel, fashion photographer, to explore the boroughs, documenting the sights through a mixture of digital, 35mm and polaroid photographs.
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“Brooklyn Sandwich Shop. One of my favorite local places, I love Fort Greene and this lunch spot is very satisfying.”
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“George Washington Bridge.”
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“Little Red Lighthouse by George Washington Bridge. What a funny little place to find a lighthouse. The bridge is always lovely, but this odd lighthouse and the park by it are charming and understated.�
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“Of course there’s tons of graffiti in NYC, but in Queens, by PS1, there is some incredible stuff, entire blocks covered in art, all different styles. It’s one of my favourite places to check in with every few months.” 71
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“The historic house trust of Staten Island has been a long time favorite. It’s a little kitsch, but it’s fun to see what the city used to look like and who lived there. Some of the houses are still inhabited and quite striking.”
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“City College. I love going way up town, as there are tons of gorgeous houses up there and it feels like it’s own little city even though it’s just a few stops on the train.”
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“Grand Central. Always a pleasure to travel through Grand Central, going upstate or around town.”
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“Vernon blvd in Long Island City is one of those beautiful areas of a changing city. There is a lot of construction and development. I always enjoy shooting around
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there.”
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“Impossible project, a place I spend a lot of time. Their latest instant film is awesome.�
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“Where I sleep.”
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MALE DENIM The summer 2013 denim collection is made up of a vivid pallete of washes - clean blues and dirty tints, cool greys and icy blues - these bright, intense shades will look fresh and new for the summer season.
output BMMA0229-3
REGULAR RISE / RELAXED AT HIP AND THIGH / STRAIGHT THROUGH LEG
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overdub BMMA0233-3
transistor BMMA0264-1
DROPPED CROTCH / RELAXED AT HIP AND THIGH / TWISTED AND TAPERED THROUGH LEG
DROPPED CROTCH / RELAXED AT HIP AND THIGH / TAPERED THROUGH LEG
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FEMALE DENIM Combined with fits for every body and every lifestyle, a selection of which can be seen across this section, these jeans will see you through everything that New York, and the world, has to offer.
fret v11 BLKA 0250-11
LOW RISE/ FITTED WAIST AND THIGH / TAPERED LEG
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plec v2 BLMA 0277-2
loudness BLMA 0290-3
LOW RISE/ FITTED WAIST AND THIGH / TAPERED LEG
LOW RISE/ FITTED WAIST AND THIGH / TAPERED ALONG LEG / CROP
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dress blsa1436 cheried
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A look at the SS13 collection against the backdrop of iconic Manhattan
CITY SKYLINE PHOTOS: Ben Rayner Photogr aphy Assistant: Adam Gong Producer: Abby Bralove Make-up: Erin Green Hair: Darine Sengseevong
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MODELS: Dayna, Lauren, Kendall, Tristan, Malik and Joe
dress BLSA1392 HIPSTA
STYLING: Kylie Griffiths
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knitwear blfa1179 fancytown shirt blaa0924 camberwell
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jacket bmka1543 ashdon jeans bmma0224-3 breaks v3 top bmga2761b juror b
89
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t-shirt blga2556 rigmorolled shorts blla0102 prancers
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her: knitwear blfa1188 fairuza him: jacket bmka1564 mizze shirt bmaa1086b roundhay b
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top blsa1456 christener
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shirt bmaa1085 otley shorts bmla0142 aintree
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t-shirt bmga2985 postcard jacket bmka1578 tbc shorts bmla0142 aintree
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dress blsa1439 pincrop
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jacket bmka1556 mizah
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t-shirt bmga2943 pontcanna
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t-shirt blga2561 timerama
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FOUNDATION
East London collective, The Stööki Craft Makers, is a creative ménage-à-trois between old friends Luke (24), Nadia (25) and Quincey
AW12 Winners:
(24). Finding common ground in a love of art,
StÖÖki
to push the boundaries of design, launching
Craft Makers
label based in London.
fashion and film, in 2011 they joined forces Stööki Jewellery and Apparel, an independent Far from being a closed creative process, everything the trio does is collaborative, presenting themed capsule collections that are born through interactive art and immersive events that encourage anyone to get hands on and creative. And people
100
are beginning to take notice with the team having worked with collaborators such as Red Bull, the Tate, the V&A, MTV and Nintendo on artistic interventions for the Stööki community. And they’ve only hit the ground running just over a year ago. So far they have independently produced two jewellery and apparel collections, with no investment, no hand outs and only their intuition and guts to guide them. And it’s these levels of dedication that made them the clear choice for this season’s Self Made £1000 prize fund.
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So what is Stööki?
events, which incorporate that element of
Stööki is a creative movement formed by
interactivity, are based on the individual items
three talented individuals. We’re split in two
within each collection.
different divisions, one side a Jewellery & Apparel Label and the other an art collective.
What’s the Stööki Curate series?
The label consists of small capsule collections
Stööki Curates is us three showcasing our
that are hand crafted and the collective
individual strengths within an artistic context.
(known as the Stööki Craft Makers)
The first one we did was heavily themed
around collaboration; we wanted to grow our
What do each of you bring to the table
community by engaging with them through
within the trio?
various mediums.
Myself and Nadia met at Sir John Cass Jewellery School and later met Luke through
How do you create your collections with no
mutual friends. I left university and was
funding behind you?
building experience within TV and marketing.
We have part-time jobs, so we all chip
Nadia was focusing on refining her craft,
in to buy materials and tools to produce
doing jobs for well known fine jewellers.
the products. The only downfall to that is
Luke always had a sharp eye for visuals since
always being limited on stock, however,
graduating from Central Saint Martins and
our audience are drawn to the element of
through Stööki his music production skills
exclusivity.
started to flourish into Stööki Sound.
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Have you hit any major obstacles along Where do you start?
the way?
We start the process with a brainstorming
We have met many! We’re taking risks and
session and it’s normally after being inspired
still learning as we go along. Being out of
by the locations we meet in. This could
out our comfort zone and knowing that our
range from the cinema, arcades and galleries
incomes are going to feel like they have been
we visit. Each piece we design and make
cut in half. In the long-run we knew it was
has its own story or theme behind it. So the
worth the sacrifice.
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Where do you find your inspiration? Between all three of us we have different sources of inspiration. Nadia loves pop art and the opportunity to work with Yayoi Kusama at the Tate was amazing. Luke has a passion for sound and he has found many ways of integrating it with the brand and I get excited with interactive art and immersive theatre productions such as PunchDrunk and Creators Project. The combination of things I
but we have formed a brother and sister
just mentioned are so vast, yet they really do
bond. It’s kind of funny that I mention that as
translate into what we do within Stööki.
all three of us are only children.
How has doing this changed your life?
What’s next for Stööki?
It’s opened us up to a lot of opportunities,
We aim to connect with a few more countries
such as this. We feel like finally we’re free
in Europe and America doing events over
to make and present what we want. We’re a
there and spreading the Stööki vision to a
close knit team that work very well together.
new audience. We’d love to have a concept
It took us a little while to get used to each
store, incorporating a creative studio, event
others personality traits and ways of working,
and retail space. BENCH. SS/2013
MORE ON BENCH We don’t just want you dressed for success, we want you equipped with the tools to get out there and get shit done. Our hard-wearing accessories are designed and crafted for the people who use them, combining both style and function for fastpaced city living. So whether on foot, bike or board, our bags are made to travel
104
with you and withstand the pace.
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PORTLAND Middle 13S1BMXA 0711 Right 13S1BMXA 0712
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PORTLAND below left 13S1BMXA 0713
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CROSS bottom left 13S1BLXA 0729 middle 13S1BLXA 0707 bottom right 13S1BMXA 0708
SPINNINGFIELD far left 13S1BLXA 0703 second left 13S1BLXA 0701 second right 13S1BLXA 0700 far right 13S1BLXA 0702
PRINCESS left 13S1 BLXA 0698 middle 13S1 BLXA 0697 right 13S1 BLXA 0699 107
MANOR left 13S1BMXA 0708 middle 13S1 BMXA 0710 right 13S1 BMXA 0709
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ARDWICK 13S1 BMXA 0715
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NORTHERN QUARTER INSIDE OUR CONCEPT STORE IN MANCHESTER, UK
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SELF MADE IN THE NORTHER QUARTER
As part of our global roll out of the Self Made manifesto, we undertook a heavy-duty project to tear up our shop in Manchester’s bustling Northern Quarter and build in it’s place a bold and unique concept store dedicated to promoting and supporting
110
people on a mission to make it happen.
New-look store upstairs showcases the new lines and capsule collections.
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Screens showcase the campaign, and content from the exhibitions
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Dr Me Collaboration
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Working closely with universities and the creative community, our transformation of the store’s previously unused basement into a constantly evolving exhibition and event space aims to give a platform to local creators on the rise and provide a blank canvas for
112
like-minded people to come to together.
The latest range from Mies Nobis, as featured in our AW12 book, on display
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Coming Up at the Self Made Gallery: 31st January THE WORLD ACCORDING TO MAS
A collection of individual photographic works by the MA photography students of Manchester School of Art. 21st February OVERSPILL
The open spaces and raw fixtures made
Focusing on the ever changing landscape
from materials salvaged from the previous
and community that lives within the
shop by our hard-grafting team, bring to life
overspills of Manchester.
the ethos of Self Made. 21st April SKETCH CITY
An Exhibition of the Manchester-based illustration collective, Sketch City. www.benchselfmade.com/exhibitions
BENCH. SS/2013
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SS / 2013
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BENCH. SS/2013
SS / 2013
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kAssel City Point Königsplatz 61 34117 0049 561 70338733 WetZlAr Forum Wetzlar Am Forum 1 Shop-Nr. 1.07a 35578 0049 6441 3834826 fulDA Buttermarkt 16 36037 0049 661 25007970 MAgDeBurg Allee-Center Ernst-Reuter-Allee 11 Shop 27 39104 0049 391 5975 4998 DortMunD Thier Areal, Westenhellweg RCT Textilhandels GmbH 44137 0231-28676877 ruhr-PArk Bochum Ruhrpark 1 44791 0049 234 3389394
neunkirchen Stumm rk-Center Neunkirchen 66538 0049 6821 9538200
Münster Rothenburg 35 48143 0049 251-9811410
luDWigshAfen Rhein-Galerie Im Zollhof 4 Shop-Nr. 1.29 67061 0049 621 62900866
osnABrück Kamp 49d (Store-Nr. 14/1) 49074 0049 541 99 89 79 40 koeln Breite Str. 169 Gertrudenplatz 50667 0049 221 25099585
heilBronn Stadtgalerie Heilbronn Heilbronn Deutschhofstr. 19 Shop Nr. 0.28 74072 0049 7131 5980720
trier Jakobstr. 9-10 54290 0049 651 9945007
offenBurg Hauptstraße 75 Ecke Fischmarkt 77652 0049 781 91980
MAinZ Seppel-Glückert-Passage 7 55116 0049 61311432446
München Hohenzollernstr. 21 80801 0049 89 38476340
BAD kreuZnAch Mannheimer Str. 157 55543 0049 671 45 302
München Hanauer Str. 68 Shop 1-365, 80993 0049 89 14303400
WinterBerg Untere Pforte 4 Einkaufszentrum “Neue Mitte Winterberg” 59955 0049 2981-820960
München Ollenhauerstr. 6 PEP Einkaufs-Center Perlach 81737 0049 89 62837164
frAnkfurt AM MAin MyZeil Zeil 106-110 (1OG312) Große Eschenheimer Str. 10-14 60313 0049 69-92884800 AschAffenBurg City Galerie Goldbacher Straße 2 Shop-Nr. 221, Ebene 2 63739 0049 6021 4584524 DArMstADt-WeiterstADt Loop5 Gutenbergstr. 5 64331 0049 6151-9069660 sulZBAch Main-Taunus Zentrum (Shop 03) Helium Textilhandels GmbH 65843 0049 69 934 902 62
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PAssAu Ludwigsplatz 1 Stadtgalerie 94032 0049 851 7567875 BAMBerg Obere Bruecke 6 96047 0049 951 9178353 erfurt Anger 1-3 (Shop-Nr. 43a) Lück & Schöne oHg 99084 0049 361 511 504 42 JenA Goethestraße 3 07743 0049 3641 3100390 AustriA Wien Donauzentrum Wagramerstraße 81 Shop Nr. 910a A-1220 0043 69918176537 innsBruck Bench Store im Kaufhaus Tyrol Maria-Theresien-Str. 31 A-6020 0043 512 214299 sölDen Dorfstr. 58 A-6450 0043 5254 2223 104 cZech rePuBlic
PlZen ingolstADt Am Westpark 6 Einkaufszentrum Westpark 85057 0049 841 993 768 99
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BENCH. SS/2013
sAn seBAstiAn Hernani 17 2004 San Sebastian
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essen Limbecker Platz 1a 45127 0049 201 36578837
Bench. SALeS
AustriA Americana Germany Markus Eibl markus@schauraum.net +43(0)662 45 33 38
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BelgiuM Americana Germany Alex Delobe alex.delobe@me.com +32(0)2 25 13 238 cAnADA Freemark Apparel Brands Inc. Marcel LaFrance mlafrance@fabinc.ca +1 514 341 7333 croAtiA Kruna Trade D.o.o Damir Sablić damir.sablic@krunamode.hr +38 521 380 255 cyPrus London Clothing Company Louis Christophi louis@london-clothing.com +35 799 49 0920 cZech rePuBlic & sloVAkiA Destiny Distribution S.R.O Lukáš Přibyl lukas@destinydistribution.cz +420734445391
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gerMAny West Americana Germany West Sascha Bergmann bench@betriebswerk-koeln.de +49(0)221 39 92 244
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