BESPOKEN 1 by Scabal

be spo ken Autumn/Winter 2007/08

Autumn - Winter Trends :

In the whirl of London

Ties with history N°12, Savile Row Meet the Michelin Guide Publishing Director

www.SwarovSki.CoM TEL. +32 (0) 2 481 05 25

SANDS OF TIME LIGHT TAKES ROOT

Editorial comment We work mainly with international advertisers. If you are interested in our advertising rates, please contact Jérôme Stéfanski, jerome@togethermedia.eu, or +32 (0)475 41 63 62

Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for the views and opinions expressed in this magazine by authors and contributors. “BESPOKEN” is neither responsible for nor endorses the content of advertisements printed on its pages.“BESPOKEN” cannot be held responsible for any error or inaccuracy in such advertising material. Editor-in-Chief : Jérôme Stéfanski Executive Editor Gregor Thissen Project Manager : Kristel Geets Advertising Coordinator : Salwa Souirat

Cover Credit : Christophe Gilbert Journalists : Raoul Buyle Gaëtan Cordier James Drew Alex Hewetson Amandine Maziers Jessica Nibelle Hélène Noël Jérôme Stéfanski

e live in a world of globalisation and standardisation. All over the globe, products and consumer habits look more and more alike. Mass media and the Internet increasingly dictate our thinking. At Scabal, we feel that the individual needs to find his own space. We do not look to follow the growing phenomenon of selfishness and isolation. We try to provide the opportunity to express oneself freely and in style. Clothing says a lot about its wearer. A suit should never be chosen merely to have an imposing presence. One should choose it to reflect oneself. The choice of garment style and cut is important in projecting your own image. Above all, the selection of fabrics offers infinite personalisation possibilities. Choice is the real expression of luxury. This is not ostentatious, but an intimate luxury.

Our magazine is dedicated to personalisation. Twice a year, we want to present not only Scabal’s latest contribution to this concept, but also offer an insight into the world of personalised luxury. We wish you an enjoyable and informative experience with this first edition of Bespoken. Happy reading. J.P. & G. Thissen

Concept & Graphic Design : Dansaert&Fils Creative Director : Marcel Ceuppens

The Intimate Expression of Luxury

J.P. Thissen, Chairman & his son Gregor, CEO

Translation : Attimedia S.A. James Drew Proofreading : James Drew Together Media rue d’Alost 7 (Centre Dansaert -2nd C) B-1000 Brussels Belgium Phone : +32 (0)475 41 63 62 info@togethermedia.eu www.scabal.com www.bespoken.com SCABAL boulevard d’Anvers 33 B-1000 Brussels Belgium Phone : + 32 (0)2 217 50 55 Bespoken

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Editorial comment

The Intimate Expression of Luxury Temptations Me, myself and I The Accessory Makes The Difference

Ties with history This is Scabal

Luxury likes contrasts The Scabal group across the globe Integrated process Modern-day goldsmiths

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Denis Bruyère : the endless search for perfection SCABAL NEWS

N° 12, Savile Row SCABAL ACROSS THE WORLD

Harry & Larry

Autumn-Winter 07- 08 trends

In the whirl of London Cult of Sport

Offshore : the height of luxury Terra incognita

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The island of Ngor, a square kilometre of serenity Rare Fabrics

Wool runs in the blood The Gourmet place

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From perfection to exception. A conversation with Jean - Luc Naret Small details make the difference Exceptional machines

B for B

Exhibitions

From “The City” to the “Big Apple” The pleasure of giving Scabal worldwide

Bespoken

Temptations

Pinel & Pinel’s i-trunk

Pinel&Pinel are famous for their exclusive humidors and cigar cases, but their latest creation is something completely different. The “i-trunk” is an all-in-one “rolling office”, equipped with an iMac G5, a JBL Creature sound system and a Canon mobile printer. The casing is made of leather and wood, with knobs and handles in solid brass. If you don’t like the white casing, you can choose from around 50 or so different colours. 5.500 € approx. www.pineletpinel.com

Just another portable video player ? Why bother, when you have your iPod ? Think again. This smart little fellow is the latest portable video player from Archos. It can store up to 85 movies, 300,000 pictures or 15,000 songs. It has a 4.3-inch ultra sharp video screen - its great contrast and sharpness make it easy to watch, even for two people. It can play the widest range of video formats, views PDF documents and connects to the Internet when a wireless network is available. Best of all, it only needs finger-tip control, thanks to its fantastic touch-screen. 499,99 € www.archos.com

Customized garage

Thanks to Vault, your new fourdoor saloon will at last find a setting worthy of its ravishing appearance. Specialists in garage storage, Vault proposes a wide range of furniture and materials designed to make the garage of your dreams a reality. Prices on request. www.showroomgarage.com

Bespoken

Archos 604 WiFi

Monaco Sixty Nine Wristwatch by Tag Heuer

This elegantly styled Tag Heuer wristwatch proves yet again that the Swiss can tell the time. There’s only sixty minutes in an hour, but they called it Sixty Nine, because the watch can be flipped over. On one side, you have the classic, square-cased Monaco dial and hand-wound movement ; on the other, there’s a high-tech digital quartz display. Its sleek and geometric design will draw attention to your timekeeping for years to come. 4.900 € approx. www.tagheuer.com

M8 Digital Camera by Leica

Companion 5 Multimedia Speaker System by Bose

You don’t have to be a computer geek to enjoy a movie, music or a game on your computer. For your pleasure, Bose has introduced the Companion Multimedia Speaker System, which turns your computer into a complete entertainment hub. The system has two visible speakers and a hideaway woofer module - it’s easy to install, as a simple USB connection does the trick, and no further work is required. The surround sound is amazing, and you can also connect your MP3 player, and upgrade it to a premium sound system. 500 € approx. www.bose.com

Davidoff Medium Matte Red Mahogany Travel Humidor

“Have a cigar !”, as Pink Floyd told the world on their 1970s ’Wish You Were Here’ album. Offer a real Havana cigar from your genuine mahogany humidor, and you really are in business. The Davidoff Medium Matte Red Mahogany Travel Humidor holds up to seven cigars. 450 € approx. www.davidoffmadison.com

The perfect combination of music and design

Regarded as one of the top three piano-makers in the world, Fazioli is constantly on the lookout for innovation. Developed in collaboration with NYT Line, this exclusive musical instrument combines performance and contemporary design to perfection. Just as consonance and dissonance are organised in music, so M. Liminal’s shapes and colours are combined in asymmetric designs. Both music and the sea inspire the M. Liminal design : the shape of the side evokes the profile of a wave, while silver calls to mind the blinding mirror of the water, illuminated by the sun. M.Liminal: the music of shape and the design of sound. Prices on request. www.fazioli.com

Since time immemorial, Leica cameras have set the standard for photo-shoots, so you may already have seen many pictures snapped by one. The Leica M8 series digital camera has the same trustworthy authenticity. Beneath its nostalgic casing lies state-of-the-art technology : its combination of lenses with sensor and high-performance picture-editing generates an outstanding 10-million-pixel picture quality. You want more ? Try out the à-la-carte system to create your unique personalised Leica M digital camera. Recommended retail price 4.250 € www.leica-camera.com

Exclusive Mp3 player

Gresso, manufacturer of “Gold” luxury mobile phones, announces its new collection of exclusive Mp3 players, “The Symphonia”. The rare and prestigious African Blackwood, from which Gresso’s Blackwood&White Gold and Blackwood&Pink Gold phones are made, is more than 200 years old. The front panel of the Symphonia Blackwood&White Gold is made from 18-carat white gold, and it’s 18-carat pink gold for the Symphonia Blackwood&Pink. The Gresso Mp3 player has a built-in FM tuner, features 1 gigabyte of internal flash memory, and supports Mp3, WMA, ASF and OGG music formats From 3.000 and 5.000 € www.gresso.com

Bespoken

Me, Myself and I

Relax

Drink

Everybody knows that a healthy diet is a must if you want to feel good but this is often hard to maintain when life is one long round of working dinners and social occasions. Your liver understands, that’s for sure. It has to work through all the consumed fats and alcohol, storing the toxins that you take in every day. But there’s hope. Berry Blaster is a new drink that helps you lower your cholesterol rate and works against the detrimental effects of everyday life. This concentrated fruit-juice and green-tea mixture gives you more energy and stimulates liver detoxification. It’s a tasty, healthy drink that fits perfectly on your breakfast table and gives you a fresh start every morning. 17,95 € www.vitsdirect.co.uk

Make-Up

For those who like to cheat as much as women, Guerlain has developed Terracotta Men. This manly, elegant compact is home to a matt and natural bronzing powder exclusively designed for gentlemen. The beautiful contemporary item contains a generous brush to assist in its application. Prices on request. www.guerlain.com Bespoken

What better way to conquer stress than by taking a few minutes off every day ? After the warmth of a long bath or relaxing shower, there’s nothing like having a luxuriant soft towel in which to wrap yourself. Santens’ new Bamboo towels are perfect - their fabric is completely natural and combines cotton and bamboo fibres, giving the towels a silky softness and better absorption. The soft colours, ranging from white, sand and honey to a wide range of pastels, evoke an ideal atmosphere for well being. 13,95 € (small) - 28,95 € (large) www.santens.com

Caviar

The pleasure afforded by genuine luxury is priceless. This is why researchers at the prestigious Swiss La Prairie laboratories have developed this caviar face cream, with highperformance caviar extracts combined with marine proteins, to transform your face. From dull and tired, your skin is reborn and takes on a lustrous, glowing hue. The results are immediate, the improvement spectacular. 50 ml : 300 € www.laprairie.com

Shave These days, fresh, soft, well cared-for skin is essential for men. Acqua Di Parma understands this, and has introduced a contemporary interpretation of classic shaving accessories, combined with sophisticated Italian design. A much sought-after item, the pure badger-hair shaving brush has a handle in wengé wood and burnished brass. The harmoniously curved shape of the razor and the distribution of the weight at the base of its handle mean that it sits easily and snugly in the hand, ensuring a safe and perfect shave. For use with Gillette Mach3 blades. Italian refinement in all its splendour. Pure badger-hair shaving brush : 240 € Razor : 195 € www.acquadiparma.com

Bike

Having a hard time fitting sport into your crowded agenda ? Then this Pinel&Pinel bike combination is your route to better physical health. The trunk contains a Brompton foldable bike and fits neatly into a corner of your office, handy for a quick ride between meetings. The casing is made of leather and wood, with knobs and handles in solid brass. Don’t like the colour ? No problem, you can select between ten colours for your bike and there are about 50 leather colours to customise your trunk. 5.500 € www.pineletpinel.com

www.breitlingforbentley.com

PRESTIGE AND PERFORMANCE. Each inspired by its own “winged B” symbol, Breitling and Bentley share the same concern for perfection. The same extreme standards of reliability, precision and authenticity. The same unique blend of prestige and performance. Whether in the Breitling workshops or in the Bentley factory in Crewe, cutting-edge technology is placed in the service of noble traditions. Symbolising this communion of ideals, Breitling participated in styling the instrumentation of the Bentley Continental models, the most powerful ever built by Bentley.

EXCLUSIVITY AND TECHNICAL EXCELLENCE. For devotees of fine mechanisms, Breitling has created a line of exceptional timepieces named “Breitling for Bentley”. Representing the culmination of sophisticated aesthetic research, these wrist instruments mirror the signature features of the famous British car manufacturer. Dedicated to the automobile world, they incorporate several exclusive technical characteristics and are propelled by high-performance “motors” patiently assembled by watchmakers at the peak of their art. Time is the ultimate luxury.

BENTLEY MARK VI

The greatest luxury in life is time. Savour every second.

ÂŠ C. Gilbert

Seven Fold Tie by Scabal

The Accessory Makes The Difference

tieS with history If you had to define “chic” with one item of gentleman’s clothing, you might well choose the tie. Adroitly knotted, nonchalantly loosened, brilliantly reinvented - let’s take a look at an accessory that can change everything

Classic dinner-table discussion : tie or bow tie ? Bags, belts, cufflinks – other accessories remain inconsequential by comparison. The tie has become indispensable, for the businessman, the dandy, the chic chap. But, what you may not know, is that it was at first a military attire. In 1974, Chinese archaeologists discovered the tomb of Emperor Qin Shihuangdi, buried around 250 BC, surrounded by some 7,500 terracotta soldiers, all wearing ties. Texts from even earlier describe Chinese soldiers wearing a silk fabric around their neck. The same was true of Roman soldiers, who protected their throats from the cold in this way when they were conquering colder climes than their native Italy.

Centuries later, Louis XIII was in the habit of hiring Croatian mercenaries, who sported cloths of lace, silk, cotton or linen (according to their rank) around their neck. Their style was much-admired and copied, and the tie quickly replaced

ruffs and jabots. Legend has it that it is they that gave the item its name in French (cravate) - it is “hrvat” in Croatian, difficult to pronounce in French, so it quickly changed into “krvat”, then “cravate”.

Clever knots

It was in fact a dandy who gave the tie a philosophy - Oscar Wilde, master thinker on matters serious and trivial, offered a simple truism : “A well-knotted tie is the first serious step that one takes in life.” Changing fashions have provided the tie with a host of knots, as well as discarding others as being too demanding or demonstrative. And history has sometimes played tricks on tie-wearing gentlemen. In 1692, the troops of the Field Marshal of Luxembourg and William III were facing each other at Steinkerque. Voltaire recounts that “the men were wearing lace ties around their necks, which needed a lot of time and patience to be tied and set in place.” In their haste to prepare for battle, they had nonchalantly tied their ties

around their necks. This style became the tie knotted “à la Steinkerque” a simple knot. Certain styles have stood the test of time, from the simple Steinkerque to the more complicated Windsor knot. It’s all a question of style, but certain types of knot work better with certain ties. For example, the bulky Windsor is only possible with a fine tie, whereas a simple knot will work better quality with a thicker cravate. In his “Physiology of grooming”, Balzac refers to the time spent in front of the mirror on account of not having tied his tie correctly: “It is not through studying or working at it that you manage to get it right. Tying your tie is something done spontaneously, instinctively and with inspiration. A well-tied tie is one of those traits of genius that is sensed and admired, not analysed or taught. Also, and I dare say this with all the force of conviction, the tie is essentially romantic ; the day it is subject to rules or fixed principles, it will cease to exist.” A.M.

Bespoken

THE SEVEN FOLD TIE IS a single piece of silk cut in the bias and folded seven times by hand The must HAVE : a sette pieghe tie

You could call this the last word in ties, the summit of the genre, veritably, the work of an expert. In 1924, New York tie-maker Langdorf revolutionised the tie world by simplifying the way it was made : a cut in the bias and assembled in three parts so that the tie sat better. But, it is still old-style folding that remains the collectors’ obsession. The sette pieghe tie (“seven fold” in Italian) is a single piece of silk cut in the bias and folded seven times by hand. With no assembly or cutting, this expertise is kept alive in Italy, and it is here that Scabal cuts and folds its ties. An art close to origami, where its hand-made origins can be seen in every fold… and where every tie is genuinely unique.

The ASCOT Knot

1. Pull the ascot around the back of the neck as you would a tie. Let the left end hang a little more than two inches longer than the right. 2. Wrap the left end one and a half times over the right. Continue around, as if you were going to complete a second turn, and push the left end up, through the neck loop, so that it emerges over the top. 3. Centre the top flap so that it is the only visible portion of the ascot.

Spread the sides slightly, creating a “waterfall” of fabric from the base of your neck. Shallow creases should be visible. 4. Undo the top button of your shirt. Tuck the ends of the ascot into the mouth of your shirt and centre it. 5. Secure the ends of the ascot with a stickpin if desired. Traditionally worn at the hunt, at Ascot Races (in the presence of the Queen of England, naturally), or with a frock coat at a marriage. Generally pinned.

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The PRINCE ALBERT Knot

The Sette Pieghe Tie by Scabal

Private class

The tie knot is something that deserves close attention - for the gentleman with a sense of detail, tying your tie should be a pleasure and not a daily chore. Our stylist will guide you step by step towards the most original and elegant knots.

Bespoken

1. Start by passing the broad end to the left over the narrower end. Then back under the narrow end. 2. Pass the broad end back over the narrow end. 3. Repeat the first step by passing the broad end back under. 4. R epeat the second step by passing the broad end back over the narrow end.

5. Pass the broad end behind the knot and through the loop around your neck. Pull the broad end underneath the outer layer of the knot. You want to be original but still terribly smart ? The elongated Prince Albert knot (named after the husband of Queen Victoria) is the one for you. Elegant with all designs, particularly with stripes, like the Cross knot, it gives body to fine cravates.

The CROSS Knot

1. Start with the wide end extending further down on the right. Pass the wide end over the narrow end. 2. Wrap the wide end under the narrow end. 3. Pull the wide end over and then underneath the outer layer of the loop around your neck so the seam on the wide end is showing. 4. Take the wide end and pass it to the opposite side, around the knot. 5. Pass the wide end up from underneath and behind the knot and through the loop that is formed. Here

the knot takes on its final shape carefully adjust the knot, holding the wide end gently between your thumb and index finger, and pull on the narrow end. If both ends don’t meet perfectly, simply start over and adjust the length of your tie accordingly. Make sure your collar falls nicely all around, and centre the knot as best you can. Undoubtedly, the most difficult knot to tie. Original, without being whimsical. Sophisticated, but not overelaborate. Not suitable for bulky or knitted ties. Particularly elegant with a striped design.

The HALF WINDSOR Knot

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The BUTTERFLY Knot

1. Begin with one end in left hand, extending 1.5 inch below other and in right hand. 2. Cross longer end over shorter end and pass up through loop. 3. Make front loop of bow by doubling up shorter and hanging end and placing across collar points. 4. Hold the front loop between the thumb and index finger of left hand. Drop long end down over front.

5. Place right index finger pointing up on bottom half of hanging part. Pass up behind front loop. Nudge resulting loop though knot behind front loop. Hold the bow at both folded ends and pull carefully to tighten the knot. Obligatory with smoking jacket (Black Butterfly) or with a dress suit (White Butterfly). Apart from that, the Butterfly is at home with a tweed jacket. In The City, to wear the “Butterfly” is a mark of imagination and independence.

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1. Put the tie around the back of your neck so that the wide end hangs down on the side of your right hand, a little more than twice as low as the thin end. 2. Wrap the wide end once around the thin end a few inches below your neck, pulling the wide end toward the side of your hand. Slip the wide end through the front of the V shape made by the knot, pulling it out toward the side of your right hand. 3. Wrap the wide end around the front of the knot. Slip the wide end through the back of the V shape made by the knot. Tuck the wide end into the front loop of the knot. Pull down gently on the wide and thin ends from below the knot until the knot is tight. Grasp the thin end with your left hand, and slide the knot up to your neck with your right hand. To be worn only in emergencies, particularly with a tie that’s fine or a large collar. Better to wear a Cross Knot – far more elegant. R.B. Bespoken

This is Scabal

Luxury likes contrasts Scabal cultivates luxury in its own way. Uniquely. A company that juggles cloth and clothing, and which maintains a genuine family structure, even with its 600 employees worldwide. Luxury likes contrasts, especially when they are well woven

“Private Line” integrates the text of your choice 14

Bespoken

he story begins in Brussels, in 1938, with a cart brimful of high-quality fabrics, travelling the streets from tailor to tailor. Today, the process is still the same, the only difference being that the cart has been replaced by highly sophisticated international transport companies. From humble origins, the company has become an internationally renowned supplier of luxury fabrics, with more than five thousand different articles to choose from at any time and new collections containing over 500 additional designs coming out every season.

It is this combination of eye and hand that makes the difference. A Scabal

garment is a genuine made-to-measure item. The personalised garment is at the core of Scabal’s success. There are no fewer than eighty possible options for a jacket and trouser, from the cut itself to all the details that make the suit unique : special pockets, open buttonholes, topstitching or personalised embroidery for a monogram. The customer designs his suit himself, as Gregor Thissen, Scabal’s CEO, explains : “The customer is his own designer. He is placed at the centre of the creative debate, but it is the behind-the-scenes work that makes the personalisation possible”. Though factories are normally associated with mass-production, Scabal has created a unique production facility whereby the garments are made on an individual basis. Here too, the eye and the hand play a key role. A.M. © C. Levêcque

Scabal has also become a producer of mens ready to wear, made to measure, and hand made garments. A full range of accessories (ties, shirts, belts, knitwear) is also on offer. Scabal is not afraid to see things on a grand scale. It developed in Europe, before investing in the American and Asian markets in the 1970s. Scabal is now available in more than sixty countries, but is still a company with a family feel to it – despite its 600 employees around the world – in which employees still describe the Chairman as “Father Thissen”.

done in-house. Scabal is one of those companies that takes charge of the process from A to Z - not far from the fabric stocks, a few floors above, Scabal’s packaging is hand assembled. The labels are printed, embossed or hot-gilded. The fabrics are brought together, again by hand. The hand is everywhere, and it is here that the company’s strength is most evident. Though it is the hand that cuts, that weaves, the eye plays an equally important role. The machines may roll and unroll the fabric, yet it is the eye that ensures complete quality-control, metre by metre, across the whole width, for every fabric and every roll. And it is the eye that checks the garments individually at the end of the chain, before they are sent to their future owner.

At Scabal, the human hand still reigns supreme. Even if Yorkshire’s machines do the weaving, it is still people that who manipulate and control them. Depending on the season, up to 800 individual lengths are cut, packaged and distributed daily from the Brussel’s headquaters to the world’s leading tailors, retailers and designers. The most prestigious ranges are even individually packed and presented in luxury boxes, along with their certificate of authencity, signed by the Chairman himself. Everything is Box packaged by hand in Brussels Bespoken

The Scabal group across THE GLOBE

n Brussels, Scabal deals with all their international orders, marketing, logistics, accounting and human resources. All the stock of fabric is held in Brussels, where Scabal also has its own printing facility.

cabal has production facilities in Saarbrücken (Germany) for the Ready-to-Wear and Made-toMeasure collections, and in Italy for the Accessory line.

ost of Scabal’s fabrics are produced in it’s own mill located in Huddersfield (England), a town long-famous for its weaving tradition.

worlwide network of subsidiaries and independent agents handle the sales and distribution of fabrics and garments. J.D. View of Huddersfield (England) 16

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Integrated process

The manufacture of a made-to-measure Scabal suit employs every European section of the group. Each stage is of the utmost importance – this is why Scabal has established an international network, in which each department specialises in one area of expertise, all of which combine to complete the garment

4. The fabric then travels onward to Germany, where the Saarbrücken craftsmen assemble them with unrivalled precision. 5. From Germany, the garment is then sent to the customer via the Brussel’s logistic centre. So, only three to four weeks after the first in-store measurement, the customer is invited to try on his made-to-measure suit. © P. Lemaître

J.S.

3. The cloth, as with most of the 5,000 fabrics offered by Scabal, will have been woven in England, in their Huddersfield mill. Here, the craftsmen work the fabrics like goldsmiths, in an atmosphere where know-how and innovation always goes hand-in-hand.

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2. The customer’s measurements and personal choices are then sent to Brussel’s headquarters, where the order is processed and the fabric cut.

1. Gentlemen of taste who are eager to acquire a Scabal made-to-measure suit can visit one of the 400 outlets around the world that carry the Scabal mark. Here, under the watchful eye of a clothing specialist, the customers may choose the cut, fabric, lining, buttons and other personalised features that will make the garment unique and perfectly match the desired image of its wearer.

Bespoken

Modern-day goldsmiths

Denis Bruyère : the ENDLESS search for perfection

Denis belongs to that category of gentlemen who are rethinking the art of tomorrow far away from the world of industrial production. This traditional cabinetmaker works the most delicate materials with a goldsmith’s precision. Mother-of-pearl, tin, ivories and tropical hardwoods take on life under his experienced hand, in a process combining traditional know-how with modern techniques. We discover a fascinating personality and a trade in which passion rules

Bespoken

When a plan appears like a true work of art...

ÂŠ C. Delfosse

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Like his creations, Denis is a sophisticated, elegant man of a rare sensitivity.

While most creators of modern furniture use modern industrial techniques, Denis takes advantage of a rich heritage that he uses as a means of artistic expression. The stylistic originality of his works is simply timeless, and free from the constraints of fashion. And it is for this reason that the artist enjoys international renown in his field. Denis began his career as a wood specialist at the end of the 1970s, leaving the design college in which he had enrolled a year earlier: “There, we were too subject to the constraints of industrialisation. Any item created had to be made by machines, so that it could subsequently be mass produced. This ‘industrial side’ really bothered me.” The young man from Liège (Belgium) began with restoring old furniture, and attended courses in cabinet-making. He travelled frequently, to France, Germany, and the Netherlands, and, as he met people and was given jobs, the cabinetmaker gained the necessary experience to open his own workshop. For several years he restored old furniture, scrupulously respecting the original techniques that had been used to make each piece. His reputation became such that, aside from private customers, many museums were soon calling on his services for the restoration of exhibition furniture. In what was quite a natural evolution, the restorer turned towards the creation of objets d’art. After having learnt many techniques, Denis Bruyère imagined small objects which he gave “an extra bit of soul”. 20

Bespoken

Denis at work

“As I had had a taste for high-level work on account of a number of exceptional items of furniture I had been entrusted with, I put these techniques to the service of my creation,” he explains. His savoir-faire allows a higher level of communication between the artist and his client. So, he makes many ornamental boxes : for cigars, jewellery, or those with no specific function but which always reveal a secret, a desire, a feeling. Into them, he embeds fine abstracts, pearly motifs and metal castings. Sometimes, he adds an opening mechanism, which accentuates the magic and sophistication of his work. In 1996, he was discovered. During the biennial antiquarians’ fair in Paris, Denis Bruyère met gallery owner Gismondi who fell under his spell and suggested that he put on an exhibition in Monaco. This was the opportunity for the cabinetmaker to devote himself exclusively to his art. “My craft is the story of a passion that was born slowly, is constantly evolving, and seizes different opportunities.” It took this “goldsmith of wood” a whole year to make a unique item of furniture commissioned by a rich English collector.

While his pieces are generally the result of several months work, this creation surpassed anything he had previously achieved. Jane Lewis, wife of a famous antique collector, placed an order in 2002. She wanted a writing desk for their residence in the Bahamas. Desiring an exceptional contemporary work, she had spent two years on a worldwide quest to find the craftsman who would be able to make her dream reality. She found Denis Bruyère. A few days later, the artist found himself in charge of the design, without any instruction other than what we could call a “brief brief” : “I like crazy furniture and shells”. So, Denis set to work. Drawing inspiration from marine elements, he devised a creation set with precious woods, which gave it a noble character : “I went myself to get the maple wood from the forest,” he recalls. Extravagant, original, incredible… there are not enough superlatives to describe this unique piece, which was valued at more than 100,000€ by the gallery where it was exhibited.

Denis Bruyère is once again working for billionaires, his clients Irish this time. However, the artist remains discreet about the budget and names of his employers. Eighteen months have already been devoted to the creation of this monumental project. It all began when his sponsors asked him to build a library for their castle in Shannon. Denis accepted, but after much research and reflection, he ended up suggesting a much more daring and original idea than the initial project. Taken aback but curious, the Irish noblemen gave the artist the go-ahead.

“My craft is the story of a passion that was born slowly, is constantly evolving, and seizes different opportunities” © C. Delfosse

Precision and know-how

The project, which has been christened “new town for Martin’s town”, is expected to take several years. It is made up of a series of sculpted ‘towers’ which will be set in one of the halls of the castle. Each has a particular meaning. One is a replica of the Empire State Building. Inspiration for another, which is set with columns, comes from neo-Gothic architecture. A third tells of the conquest of space with frescos and symbols. Every item of furniture is made of rare and precious materials and woods including Palissandre de Rio, wavy maplewood, amaranth wood. But, setting aside this extravagant adventure, Denis Bruyère still has a taste for simple things. What’s more, the artist refrains from working solely for multi-millionaires and insists that his work addresses everyone. Thus, for Valentine’s Day 2007, he created a chest of drawers with curved, sensual, mysterious forms. Two silver beetles walk along the varnished wood from which a drawer detaches itself. To penetrate its secret, you have to find the mechanisms of this item in curved wood, which, once triggered, will open Pandora’s Box for you. C.D. Bespoken

SCABAL NEWS

N° 12, Savile Row The world’s most prestigious tailors are located in Savile Row, London, a street strewn with legends and captivating anecdotes

“N°12” Garment by Scabal

cabal is pleased to announce the creation of its “N°12” Collection, a premium range of garments handcrafted according to the strict bespoke-tailoring traditions of “The Row”. The launch coincides with the refurbishment of Scabal’s London flagship store, located at number 12, Savile Row.

Above all, it’s British

No doubt that Phileas Fogg, who lived at number 7, would have done all his clothes shopping at Scabal and, as the perfect gentleman, would have worn “N°12” with pride. The hero of Jules Verne’s “Around the World in 80 Days” would find complete satisfaction at Scabal, such are their efforts to satisfy customers, who value detail and are driven by a constant search for perfection. An eminent member of the famous Reform-Club, Mister Fogg was known for his refinement, his taste for travel, but also for his rigour. The story tells that his servant James Forster was dismissed “ for bringing him water for his beard that was heated to 84 degrees Fahrenheit degrees, instead of the requested 86 degrees”. As a replacement, Fogg engaged a young Frenchman named Jean Passepartout, whom he instructed in the fine art of English etiquette, of which Fogg was a master. So, if our dear Phileas was indeed English etiquette personified, it seems highly likely that Scabal would also have been his trusted companion. Indeed, the exceptional quality of Scabal fabrics is the foundation of a clothing collection intended for gentlemen who like contemporary elegance and can recognise quality. In this context, the fabric is to be cherished. The fabric collections have long-since been imported from Great Britain. With the passing of the years, the English style has seen many adaptations in its evolution to a more

modern style, without ever forgetting its elegant roots. The new line, “N°12” represents this trend perfectly. Tradition re-examined and modified according to today’s taste. The Autumn-Winter 07/08 season announces the launch of “Scabal N°12”, a line of top-of-the-range garments, which stresses the importance of tradition. Scabal CEO Gregor Thissen presents “N°12” as “the latest addition to the Scabal range”. He adds : “Our wish is to combine our unequalled tradition of fabric with the originality of the hand-made garment. The principle idea was to create a very prestigious range that blends modern comfort with traditional elegance. We paid particular attention to the presentation of the “N°12” garment in order to highlight its exclusiveness.” Matthias Rollmann, Director of Finished Products at Scabal, agrees : “We attach the greatest importance to details and finish. These are two elements that are characteristic of the noble tradition of hand-made clothing for example the buttons are double-stitched, first with cotton thread, then with silk. The armholes are sewn and stitched by hand so that the shoulders and chest keep their shape, with an elegant aspect that only hand-made clothing provides.” Rollmann continues : “Cut by hand, the Scabal “N°12” garment fits the shape of the body to perfection. The soft shoulders contribute to the silhouette’s refinement. All sections of the garment, even those hidden from view, are prepared and put together by hand. The inter lining is made of layers of cameland horse-hair, pre-washed to guarantee the stability of the garment. All of these components contribute to the comfort, lightness and elegance of the garment.”

It is my “N°12” !

Personalisation is at the heart of Scabal. And the “N°12” Collection is no exception. Jackets, trousers, waistcoats and coats are available in many different styles. Moreover, the “Scabal N°12” garment is available with your choice of lining and buttons, your name embroidered in the lining, open buttonholes and many other personalised options. According to Gregor Thissen:

“Given the artisanal nature of the manufacturing process, a “Scabal N°12” garment’s creation is spread out over six weeks, a waiting period that we intend to maintain in the interest of the garment’s quality. This is the price of excellence and the excitement of anticipation.” Equal in terms of elegance and comfort, a “N°12” garment is perfect for both the mature businessman and the young man with refined taste – it’s the ultimate man’s suit.

Savile Row revival

Scabal’s flagship store re-opened its doors at 12 Savile Row on 2 April of this year, and welcomes clients in a relaxed and elegant environment, in which contemporary design and tradition work in perfect harmony. Neil Hart, Sales Director for the UK market, spoke exclusively to Bespoken. Bespoken : The new look for Scabal’s London store coincided with the launch of the N°12 line. When did the two projects come together in your mind ? Neil Hart : We wanted to give the flagship store a makeover for some time. We also wanted to use the store to communicate more effectively what Scabal stands for – modern British luxury – and for that reason some slight re-designing and new merchandising was required. Our wish to have a superior, hand-made garment line was also in our minds for some time, so it made sense to try and combine these two new and complementary projects. Through good organisation, and a good deal of luck, we managed to achieve it ! What were the main areas of the shop designer’s brief ? We wanted to create a warm, friendly and luxurious environment to showcase our complete range of products – from cloth through to garments, along with some of our accessories. At the same time, we wanted to send out a very clear signal about what Scabal stood for, namely modern, British luxury. We insisted very strongly that the colour, materials, furniture as well as Bespoken

the overall feel of the store, needed to reflect this. How long did it take ? It took several months to identify the right shop designers. We spoke with a number of leading companies and asked them to submit their plans for our consideration. Once we had selected the company, things moved quite quickly. We saw them in Brussels and I met several times in London to go over the plans for the project. There were also much emailing and phone conversations. The physical work took around three weeks, with a whole army of builders/painters/

For those customers who prefer a little more privacy, we have created a separate VIP room at the back of the store. So far, our loyal customers have warmly welcomed the change, but we have also seen a new breed of shoppers visiting our store, which is very encouraging for the future. Any events planned to celebrate this re-opening ? Currently we are going for a “soft” relaunch, though we have plans for a number of small, intimate events in-store for a select number of key existing and potential clients later in the year.

How important is Scabal to Savile Row ?

Scabal has actually been on Savile Row for more than 40 years and it was in 1991 that its then cloth showroom became a fully fledged Scabal flagship store. Scabal has supplied, and indeed continues to supply, the leading tailors on Savile Row, such as Henry Poole , Gieves & Hawkes, Huntsman, Anderson & Shepherd. They often bring clients to our store, since we have the complete Scabal cloth collection available, in addition to a number of cut lengths of cloth in our more expensive fabrics, such as Gold Treasure or Diamond Chip. Scabal is seen as one of the main players on the Row, not only because of our flagship store, but also through our Scabal cloth bunches that are highly visible in all of the establishments on Savile Row. Our presence on the Row clearly underlines our origins and our attachment to British style and fashion. The “N°12” range is exclusively available in 12 cities worldwide : London, Hong Kong, Moscow, St Petersburg, Astana, Maastricht, Den Haag, Rotterdam, Hamburg, Berlin, Nüremberg and Bucharest. In the coming months, more stores will be adding the “N°12” range. For more information, go to www.scabal.com J.S.

electricians working 24/7. The speciallymade furniture was produced off-site and brought in at the end when the major construction works had been completed.

A warm, friendly and luxurious environment

“Scabal has actually been on Savile Row for more than 40 years”

What was the public’s reaction to the new look ? Savile Row can be quite a daunting place. We wanted to provide a relaxed and informal environment, yet at the same time provide a highly professional and attentive service. We deliberately keep both double doors open, even in winter, to entice customers to come and look around. A key feature is the sitting area in the centre of the store, where we like to feel that a conversation can be enjoyed between our sales staff and the potential customer, to find out exactly what his needs are and where perhaps Scabal can help. 24

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Scabal’s flagship store at 12, Savile Row

SCABAL ACROSS THE WORLD

Harry & Larry

In 1954, Harry Rosen and his brother Lou opened a menswear store in Cabbagetown, Canada, with only $500. 53 years on, Harry Rosen is now a 16-store operation across the country and is, quite simply, where gentlemen of good taste go to look their absolute best

Bespoken: Larry, what was the dream that drove Harry and Lou back in 1954, armed only with $500 ? Larry Rosen : The story of how the store began is now legendary – they faked it, stacked it full of boxes, made the store look full, while selling the concept of made-to-measure clothing. But, right from the beginning, Harry never faked his philosophy, which was about servicing customers, understanding and then satisfying their needs. It was, and still is, all about good-quality clothing to complement who you are – made-to-measure, well-advised good-looks is why we now have a € 150 million annual turnover. What can the gentleman of good taste expect from a visit to your store ? We’re talking about assisting men to develop a confident personal image – you come in, we offer you the right stuff, and we stand by it. You leave Harry Rosen happy with your look, and we’re happy. Harry Rosen organised two fund-raising runs in spring 2006, in Toronto and Vancouver, in support of prostate-cancer research. Can you tell us a little about this ?

We believe that a company such as ours should always give back to our community, so we consulted with our associates, asking how they felt we should “ive back”. We decided that, as we are dedicated to gentlemen, the under-funded area of prostrate-cancer research needed our support – and the run-offs we organised have raised, to date, around $1,500,000, and the donations keep coming in, to fund research progress which is very, very important.

tradition passed from father to son, with remarkable parallels to the Scabal story… Harry’s son Larry was appointed Chairman and Chief Executive Officer in 2000, having worked his way up in the company for more than 20 years. He found some time in his busy day in Toronto for a talk with “Bespoken”.

You use many Scabal fabrics in your range – a working relationship that you’re obviously comfortable with ? Yes, we do a lot of Scabal business – we have tremendous respect for the company, as we believe that their values and ours go hand in hand. Our customers appreciate the enormous variety of luxury fabrics offered by Scabal, along with their unique collections, such as “Summit”and “Tribute to Dali”. In fact, several years ago, we organized a succesful Dali event in a number of our stores throughout Canada, where we were able to show a number of the originals that Scabal had kindly loaned us. I believe that this was the first time that the pictures had been shown outside Europe. Although your father Harry stepped back from day-to-day operation of the company in 2005, he is still very much involved as executive chairman in an advisory role. Do neither of you plan ever to retire ? When I’m 75 as my father now is, I hope still to be working in an advisory role too, perhaps to my own three sons. I just hope that I am able to do as wonderful a job as my father did. So, we’ll see... For more information on Harry Rosen, go to www.harryrosen.com H.N.

Larry Rosen

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Autumn-Winter 07-08 trends

In the whirl of London

London, capital of extremes and opposites. Where traditional combines with contemporary, the familiar with the unknown. An attractive city with residents that include locals, tourists, businessmen, artists and VIPs. It is in this city where some distinguish themselves by being different and fight against the tide of conformity

t an hour when some are opening their eyes, others are finishing their full English breakfast. And, very often, this copious meal is the first business meeting of the day. For those men who always want to be first, every detail is of great importance, as much in their appearance as in their attitude.

Suit, “Lifestyle”, wool and cashmere, ref. 701696. Coat “Luxury Overcoatings”, wool and cashmere, ref. 851361. Shirt, tie and gloves: Scabal accessory line.

Suit “N°12” collection, “Luxxor”, Super 130’s, ref. 750718. Shirt, tie, handkerchief and belt: Scabal accessory line. “Luxxor, a Super 130’s with cashmere and vicuna offering an attractive range of colourful stripes, weave and yarn effects and the original paper press finish.

Suit, “Lifestyle”, Super 100’s, ref. 701704. Shirt, tie and handkerchief : Scabal accessory line.

n selected places, considered as much for their sumptuousness as their relaxed atmosphere, it is not always easy to make a mark. Because, with too much luxury, luxury becomes commonplace. In such environments, an exclusive style is the only real wealth.

Suit, “Lifestyle”, wool and cashmere, ref. 701703. Shirt, tie and handkerchief: Scabal accessory line. The “Lifestyle” suiting range is available in a wide choice of fancy stripes, plains and check designs.

here are 307 languages in London and it is 10 times larger than Paris. There is a place for everyone, in a climate that is tolerant of looks, ethnic groups and ways of life. It’s difficult to stand apart from the crowd when a thousand contrasts are to be seen on every street corner. Except, of course, when the worship of individuality is sought out.

Suit, “Lifestyle”, Super 100’s, ref. 701704. Shirt, tie and handkerchief: Scabal accessory line. The “Lifestyle” collection offers a sporty but also modern, elegant look both in pure wool and wool blended with cashmere or silk.

frantic ballet in the heart of the City. Where futuristic offices and the churches of the architect Christopher Wren come together in a maze of narrow streets, the white-collar workers are frantic, driven by the same ambitions and the same look. But, sometimes, there’s the appearance of a rare bird, determined to sing its own song.

Suit “N°12” collection, “Luxxor”, Super 130’s, ref. 750718. Shirt, tie, handkerchief: Scabal accessory line.

ell me what you wear, and I will tell you what you are looking for. In Mayfair or elsewhere, when the perfect fit is combined with luxury cloth, the wearer is uplifted. No effort is required – all that’s needed is to be oneself.

Jacket, “Gallery”, wool and cashmere, ref. 851556. Trousers, “Flannel”, pure wool, ref. 500212. Shirt, tie and belt: Scabal accessory line. The new edition of “Gallery” offers a large assortment of luxury jacketings in fine wool qualities, some blended with cashmere, lambswool, alpaca and silk. New fashion trends can be found in the innovative check designs in a winter warm soft flannel. The collection also comprises classical check designs in modern shades and is completed with elegant herringbones.

lack Cabs prepare to enter the traffic jams. Difficult to distinguish, as they all have the same colour, the same shape and are all for hire. Even their drivers seem to be production-line designed, as are their passengers. With some elegant exceptions, of course.

Photos : C. Gilbert Text : G.Cordier

Suit “N°12” collection, “Luxxor”, Super 130’s, ref. 750718. Shirt, tie, handkerchief and belt : Scabal accessory line.

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Cult of Sport

Offshore : the height of luxury

Aside from the great skippers who pit their strength against each other in the legendary sporting regattas such as the America’s Cup, the Rum Run or the Sydney Hobart, the private owners of luxury yachts also face off against each other on the water. On board, these Rolls Royce’s of the seas not only enjoy maximum comfort, but are also equipped with the latest technology in the nautical industry. Welcome to the private world of exclusive yachting ; welcome to a world without limits

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Christophe at the heart of the action Bespoken

Feeling of relaxation

A buoyant industry

Luxury yachting has modernised but basically nothing has really changed since the days of Aristotle Onassis, the Greek ship owner and famous jetsetter of the golden sixties. He owed his multi-million pound empire to boats… “The sun never sets on my ships”, he told a journalist at the end of his life. Today, we can see that the sun has never set on the sailing world, either, which is still a must for the international jet set and the world’s newly wealthy. The manufacturers of these luxury boats have the wind in their sails, as evidenced by the booming order books of the Italian, Swedish, Australian and South African shipyards which provide for excellence as regards quality (the yachts are produced in very small numbers and the work is still done by craftsmen). The owners call on these super architects to give their boat a special design and to guarantee exclusive equipment that can be personalised. Thanks to the use of high quality materials, we are witnessing a great harmony between the yacht’s lines and the elegance of the interior architecture, without ever losing sight of the essential factor: the passion for sailing.

A leitmotif : personalisation

World leader in terms of value for money, the German firm Hanse has developed the “Individual Cabin Concept”, a service that enables future owners to give free rein to their creativity by combining the options proposed at leisure. An online configuration program enables you to adjust the hull, the bridge, the nautical equipment, the sails and rigging, the motor and the electronic equipment, but also the interiors. In all, 42

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there are no fewer than 70 possible variations with which to create your individual model, without compromising in any way on your personal requirements and tastes. Established in 1897, the very prestigious French group Couach specialises in the design of customised yachts. The brand’s strength is and always has been built on a know-how where the human hand remains irreplaceable. Far beyond mere decoration, the shipyard pushes its idea of personalisation to the limit, via its five highly specialised departments (design, composite, sewing, joinery and outfitting of superstructures). Christelle Bouillet is a seamstress at Couach and gives shape to the future owners’ most personal wishes. Her role is to identify each customer’s wishes, guide them step by step, and then look for the fabrics and forms that would suit their project. “We make unique collections for each boat: mattresses, bedspreads, cushions, curtains, hung ceilings… here the trend is for all trends ! And therein lies the job’s appeal”, she explains passionately. Couach regularly invites its customers to visit its magical site located in the heart of the Arcachon basin, to involve them in the process of their future boat’s construction. Every day, in this experts’ workshop, 300 craftsmen help make the customer’s project as exceptional as it is unique. The expression “Yacht Couture” is used here to refer to the core of the century-old company’s activity. “Yacht Couture” can be defined as the art of treating and harmonising the prestigious raw materials that guarantee the exclusive character of each boat: bronze, Burma teak, mahogany, sycamore, precious leathers, crocodile skin, rare fabrics, or even cashmere.

Every year, from St Barth’ to St Tropez

These extremely luxurious yachts are mainly intended for leisure. Inside, we find all the material comforts that the owners have at home, but also a hotel service worthy of the finest five-star establishments. Every year, following the example of the leading hotels and restaurants, the world of luxury yachting rewards the best gastronomic chefs working on board the yachts. Better known by the name “Bateau Gourmand” (Gourmet Boat), this prestigious ceremony takes place in July in Sardinia, at the very trendy Yacht Club Costa Smeralda. The most important rule

governing the competition is that the chefs have to cook the dishes that are entered in the competition in the kitchens of their boats. Luxury yachting is certainly a means of satisfying one’s passion for sailing, but there are also rendezvous that cannot be missed if you want to keep your place in this very select club. In February, for example, it is good form to sail around St Barthélémy, in the French Antilles. The done thing is to show up and drop anchor at Cannes in September for the Regates Royales. In October, you are expected in the port of St Tropez to take part in the Voiles de St Tropez. To facilitate the owner’s task, and to keep him satisfied, the skipper and his team take responsibility for taking the boat from one point of the globe to another. But instead of sailing, the yacht often flies off in the hold of a cargo plane.

A toy worthy of a Formula 1

Christophe Gaugier took the bait at a very early age. He feels like a fish in water when he talks about sailing and that’s normal, since the sea is his passion. Skipper and photographer, Christophe has taken part in some of the most prestigious regattas in the world. He tells us about luxury yachting competitions, a world apart into which he first set foot many years ago: “Luxury yachting is associated with the search for elegance but also performance. These boats are invited by the most renowned clubs, and meet in private regattas ‘ for fun”’. There is nothing particular at stake in these races, nor any outrageous sponsoring. Unlike “sporting” regattas, in which there is an obligation to achieve a result and perform well, luxury regattas only take place for the pleasure of the competition. It is a game, but a very high level game, since Christophe Gaugier likens these races to a “private Formula 1s”. To gain a few grams, the boat is often made of titanium and carbon – very costly, extremely light materials which have the advantage of being very resistant.

These luxury regattas last for a week on average. Special parties are held in the evening. “You also talk business on those occasions”, Christophe admits.

Around luxury yachting

Luxury yachting has many partners. The passion of the jet set and the very wealthy for this activity leads to the development of many economic sectors. For example, yachting has seen the birth of a specialist press and companies providing services and assistance. The delicate manual work, such as woodwork, upholstery, marquetry, the working of leather and gilding with fine gold have also received a boost thanks to the luxury industry. In haute couture, like yachting, made-to-measure is the requisite and the most sophisticated owners are already busy adapting their boats to their wardrobes, in the “Luxury Travel” perspective that Scabal holds so dear. For those who do not have ten million euros with which to treat themselves to such a toy, hiring a luxury yacht remains one way of satisfying this devouring passion. Others will have to make do with admiring and dreaming when they contemplate the new Swan and Wally on display this winter in the Monaco, Barcelona or London boat shows. J.N.

Formula 1 of the seas

The “Yacht Couture” concept well-illustrated

owners who know how to handle such machines and few who are interested in the way they work. “A yacht is jam-packed with devices which are complex to run, such as the electronic systems, transmission systems or even the desalination units (making between 1,200 and 2,000 litres of fresh water every day)”.

At racing times, the members of the on-board crew number 20 to 25. They are responsible for the navigation since the owner is rarely the skipper. “That creates a special relationship, since the owner has to agree to submit to the decisions taken by the skipper, who is legally recognised as being the authority responsible for the boat”. According to Christophe Gaugier, there are few Bespoken

Terra incognita

The island of Ngor, a square kilometre of serenity

Senegal… land of hospitality and warmth. Located at the westernmost tip of Africa and exposed to all the winds of the world, the country very quickly came to the attention of European tourists, who started to flock here. Dakar is a bustling, polluted city where the new businessmen rub shoulders with traditional merchants. You’d be hard pressed to imagine that a few kilometres from here, north of the Cap Vert peninsula, there is a place that does not know the meaning of stress or crowds. A quiet, peaceful place where time seems long since to have stood still

The port of Ngor

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ll you have to do is leave the city centre behind you, head for the Dakar coast and take your place in one of the coloured dugout canoes. The crossing only takes a few minutes, and we can already make out a little corner of paradise. It’s only a few kilometres away from the hustle and bustle and dust of the Senegalese capital, and yet the island of Ngor has managed to preserve its wild charm and exceptional beauty.

Trendy desert islanders The two hundred or so inhabitants of the little island, which measures one square kilometre, lead a bohemian and nonchalant life. Strangely, the tourists do not flock to the white sand beaches of Ngor, choosing rather to crowd onto those of its larger neighbouring sister island of Gorée. That suits the inhabitants of what is also nicknamed “trendy Ngor” just fine. It is perhaps this discretion and tranquillity that attract Senegalese artist. Some fifty musicians, sculptors, writers and above all painters have come here to seek a new breath of

inspiration. It has to be said that whatever the time of day, the palette of colours that the landscape here offers leaves you speechless… The French painter Christian Soto fell in love with the place. But, before 1999, he had never heard of it. The local artists he met there quickly welcomed him into their clan. And it is not so much the pure and enchanting beauty of the place, as the legendary hospitality and humour of the Senegalese that prompted the painter to set down his bags and stay at Ngor for two years… “It’s a laid-back life, a life on the margins.” In a nutshell, the life of a desert islander, in which you experience Bespoken

the strange feeling of being cut off from the world. The fact that there is no electricity on the island no doubt heightens this impression, for here it’s candlelight or nothing ! During the day you feel good… The green and blue dugouts providing the shuttle service to and from Dakar pitch from side to side on the azure sea. The waves crash on the rocks. The burning sun is like a caress on the skin. Ngor is also a landmark for gourmets since its waters are brimming with treasures for the palate. At lunchtime, you can fill yourself on tuna, grilled giant prawns and monkfish kebabs. At sundown, the inhabitants meet for a chilled mint tea (or a palm beer for the more daring) in one of the two bars on the island. Pre-dinner drinks are a pretext to go back in time and revive the oral tradition... The Grios recount the legends of Africa to the dreamy and nostalgic, whilst musicians bring the stories of peoples of the past back to life to the rhythm of their djambés.

The island of fringe painters

Ngor has become the fashionable place for young Senegalese painters who express their art through an explosion of warm and luminous colours. Constantly on the lookout for inspiration and new experiences, Christian Soto quickly adopted the working method of the local artists. “You work in the old way”, he explains, with a smile. “In Europe, you find all the supplies you want. There are specialist stores on every street corner, whilst in Africa artists pay more attention to the materials. You save”. Senegalese painters do not buy a readymade canvas. They buy linen by the meter in the market and call on woodworkers to mount it. Things found on the ground are recovered and stuck on the painting. So a nail, a piece of string or a few grains of sand will become integral parts of the work. At Ngor, Christian Soto learnt to work in a more reflective manner, playing the card of simplicity by using very refined whites. Using the thickness and roughness of the canvas, his techniques are very minimalist. Today, when 46

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he looks at his Senegalese canvases, Soto confides : “I loved what I was doing there, but this style of painting did not tally with what I was used to doing. These paintings were not well enough composed and did not meet with success in Europe”. However, the French painter feels he has developed thanks to his African experience and is aware that it was a necessary stage in the evolution of his art.

“Inspiration from meeting people”

The only white man among black artists, Christian discovered “a special thing about Ngor”. It is not so much the colours of the landscape, however splendid these are, but rather the atmosphere among the people that made him feel good. Everyone has a specific or atypical story. Everyone knows everyone else on the island. However, community life brings about a veritable relationship of hierarchy among the artists. At Ngor, there are also stories of local rivalries, often concerning plagiarism among the painters and sometimes also because of women. Christian Soto felt “non-standard”, and thus also alien to the quarrels. The painter’s wish was first and foremost to capture the best of the men and women of Ngor. He has taken his inspiration from the meetings and exchanges he had with his African friends. A word, a phrase or an association of ideas can be the starting point for a painting. For two years, Christian lived a life on the fringe. But one day the painter came back to earth and decided to go back home: “I think if I’d stayed there I would have rested on my laurels and I wouldn’t have been able to exhibit as much as I do now. But it’s difficult to come home when you’ve experienced a life without worries. You quickly get used to that”. Whilst the Frenchman would like to go back to Ngor more often, his Senegalese painter friends dream of coming to the West to make a name for themselves in the business. One of them has been lucky. Moktar fulfilled his dream, even though it meant leaving his nearest and dearest and changing his life. Today, his paintings have been displayed in galleries

in France and Luxembourg. His brothers back home envy what he has done. But as they wait for an opportunity to break into the art world and fly off to Europe, they’re still fiddling about and lounging around at Ngor. J.N.

Le Méridien Président Hotel Pointe des Almadies B.P. 8181 · Dakar · Senegal T. : (221) 869 6969 www.dakar.lemeridien.fr

This is one of the most beautiful hotels in West Africa. The waves break on the shore and white breakers are formed on the sand... that’s the view you have from your room or suite at the Méridien President Hotel in the capital of Senegal. The establishment’s 372 rooms are surrounded by 35 hectares of luxuriant vegetation. Equipped with the most extensive meeting and conference facilities in the west of the continent, the Méridien President is a magnificent place for conferences and corporate events. Pleasure trippers come to enjoy the unique range of sports on offer, including water sports, deep-sea fishing, golf and tennis, the magnificent and protected sea views, and the pleasant moments of relaxation offered by the Méridien President. Rates : 236 € to 457 € for a double room HOW TO GET THERE :

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Soto’s studio Bespoken

Rare Fabrics

Wool runs in THE blood

The comfort of super-fine wool, the softness of cashmere and the elegance of silk. The seduction of the one-off design and the allure of subtle colour. At Scabal, the art is in the fabric from which the garment is born

The art of fabrics by Scabal Bespoken

Scabal has been a pioneer with regards fabric innovation

n the beginning, there is the raw material. It is the comfort of natural fibres that still inspires elegant wardrobes. The art of weaving is about including and understanding the subtlety of the mixtures silk, mohair, cashmere, wool, etc. Then the work begins with the colours, a never-ending story. At Scabal, fabrics are born that bear its name, synonymous with prestige and quality. They’re used by the world’s leading tailors, retailers and designers. Scabal has been a pioneer with regards to fabric innovation. Early on, Scabal understood that the most interesting evolution as regards fabrics lay in their increasing lightness. Scabal was the first to distribute and promote the famous Super 100’s, Super 120’s, and Super 200’s as well as other fine wools. This grading system refers to the fineness of the wool fibre. Recently, Scabal has launched “Summit”, a Super 250’s, woven with the world’s finest wool. This cloth is produced according to traditional artisanal methods in Scabal’s own mill in Huddersfield, England. At the end of the production process, the Summit Collection is given a special “paper-press” finish, which further increases its comfort and splendour. At Scabal, the quality of the materials and the creative design are the foundations of the garment.

As good as gold

Famous throughout the world, Scabal is a purveyor of international style and elegance that has invigorated the male wardrobe. 50

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Scabal offers more than 5,000 fabrics

Scabal provides the perfect combination of made-to-measure and ready-to-wear garments. A universally recognised skill even by Hollywood stars, who frequently order their garments using Scabal, in particular, the cloth worn by Daniel (007) Craig, in Casino Royale. It should be noted that the famous spy On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, created during the Cold War by Ian Fleming, has iconic status. Copied, parodied, caricatured, James Bond nevertheless remains a reference point as regards male elegance. Without doubt, the most coveted male image on the market ! Today, the Scabal label, with a flagship store on the famous Savile Row, Mecca of British elegance worldwide, is associated with the world’s most prestigious establishments, and is pushing back the limits, with increasingly refined fabrics. Within the Scabal collection, one discovers exceptional fabrics, such as “Gold Treasure”, and “Diamond Chip”. Another contains the mystical “Lapis Lazuli” stone, without forgetting, of course, a unique wool-mohair blend that’s ultra-fine. Some years ago, Scabal bought a remarkable bale of mohair wool

in South Africa. Undoubtedly the finest, most expensive mohair ever, it was baptized “Kharisa” by Scabal, which means “exceptionally soft” in Bochimane. This wool (a combination of Super 180’s and mohair) once woven provides an exceptionally soft and luxurious fabric. These exceptional qualities were obtained via rigorous genetic selection of goats over 100 years, with the South African climate and nature providing the rest. More recently, Scabal launched “Gold Treasure”, a Super 150’s 22-carat gold thread, made from an exceptional Australian merino wool. A unique collection, heavily promoted on the Gulf coast by Luis Miguel, the most famous Latin American singer who has sold 50 million albums and won seven Grammy Awards. Clearly, this entertainer also adores “Diamond Chip”, a Super 150’s and silk combination, containing diamond fragments that are sprinkled into the wool after washing and combing. The fabric obtained is remarkably light and visually dazzling. Also waiting to be discovered is “Yangir”, a fabric that’s even softer than cashmere. This precious cloth takes its name from a wild goat that lives in the mountains of

Mongolia, Turkestan and Nepal. Its wool is of an exceptional softness, and is extremely rare – with its production barely exceeding a few hundred kilos per annum. The ‘Golden Fleece’ of the 21st century. Cashmere also comes from the undercoat of a goat that lives in the Himalayas. It continues to be the focus of all desire, a fabric from which the goat-sheering provides only limited quantities.

be it for summer or winter. Scabal pushes even further the luxury component by allowing you to personalise your own individually made length of cloth. The “Private Line” collection integrates the text of your choice, for example your name, and the text is woven as a discrete stripe. What could personalise a suit more than having your name written into the garment ? The possibilities are endless…

The cashmere that Scabal has chosen for its “Romance” collection, has passed through a rigorous selection process, in which only the longest fibres are retained, in order to produce a light fabric. This 100% fine-combed cashmere is ideal for naturally elegant jacketing,

In spite of its international dimension, Scabal knows how important it is to remain true to offering a personalised product and service, whether it be within their cloth or garment collections. R.B.

In spite of its international dimension, Scabal knows how important it is to remain true to offering a personalised product and service

“Yangir”, is even softer than cashmere

The Gourmet place

From Perfection to Exception. A conversation with Jean - Luc Naret

In 1900, the Michelin brothers created the first edition of their guide for travellers touring in France, to advise them about rooms with a view in which to rest peacefully and to enjoy unforgettable meals. Since then, the famous red address book, not unlike its faithful readers, has taken more than a trip or two, to our great delight. Jean-Luc Naret, publishing director of the prestigious gastronomic guide, talks to Bespoken

Jean-Luc Naret: I am the sixth director of the guide since its foundation. However, I am the first to have been recruited outside the company. Until then, all directors were former Michelin staff-members. I was never an inspector myself. The Michelin top executives and I simply met and decided to work together. It was a mutual desire. Since you arrived as head of the red guide, you enlarged its coverage considerably. In 2006, it was the United States’ year, with New York and a large exposure of San Francisco’s centre and surroundings. Just after that huge success, you sent Michelin inspectors in Tokyo and, now, it’s the turn of Los Angeles and Las Vegas. How do you choose the restaurants to review ? Each inspector is appointed to a particular district in the city and receives a list of interesting establishments to visit. When we arrive in a new country, our inspectors work in pairs. A newly recruited and intensively trained local inspector accompanies an experienced one from the current team. The first teaches the second his culture and high standards; the second coaches his new colleague on Michelin methods and values. Together, they undertake another crucial mission: to explore their area, to talk to chefs and, above all, to listen to them. In New York, the first year, we added 350 addresses to the original list. It’s a constant learning process. After two years in the country, Michelin is now fully integrated. In the Japanese cuisine tradition, the visual aspect is paramount. Not just for the pleasure of the eyes - it’s an authentic language. Did the inspectors incorporate that aspect into their reviews ? Of course we did ! That is exactly why local knowledge and sensitivity are priceless. When the time arrives to decide if a chef deserves one

Bespoken: You’ve been the director of the Michelin Guide since 2003, which is universally acclaimed as the gastronomic reference “par excellence”. One doesn’t become head of such a prestigious publication by chance. Could you tell us how it happened ?

Jean-Luc Naret

jean - luc naret in a few dates 1963 : born on the 6th of march 1982 : graduates at ehp (école hôtelière de paris) 1982 : director of the venice-simplon- orient express train 1984 : deputy director of the bristol hôtel, paris 1990 : general director of the one&only saint-géran, mauritius 1992 : contributes to the reopening of the lost city palace, south africa 1994 : contributes to the reopening of the ocean club, bahamas 2000 : takes the lead of the reopening of the sandy lane, barbados, quickly considered as world best resort 2001 : operationsdirector for his highness the aga khan’s hotels group 2003 : publishingdirector for michelin group jean-luc naret lives now in paris with his wife and three children. or more stars, the dialogue between the two experienced inspectors guides the final decision, which is always a joint one. Could you explain the difference between a good, a very good and a great chef ? What makes a particular cuisine unique ? Product quality is an essential condition. Chefs use a majority of ingredients that are provided by local agriculture, which they

know perfectly. The transmission of knowledge, of know-how, of wisdom, from one generation to the next is also impossible to circumvent. It is very clear in France, for example, where all the promising young chefs have spent the first years of their career working with prominent and respected individuals. Then comes their individual talent. Each great chef is different from the other. Some of them need to be in their restaurant all the time. When we were in San Francisco for the first edition, I invited a chef to the ‘Stars Presentation’ ceremony. He declined politely and explained to me that he was expecting guests that evening and could not leave the restaurant; he had to welcome and serve them. For that man, to attend the event would have been totally inappropriate. You too, your entire career is based on the fine art of hospitality. What transforms a very pleasant stay in beautiful surroundings into an unforgettable dream ? If you had asked me what was my trade, I would have replied “Dream Maker”. Of course, you have to assemble a highly talented team but you succeed only when you create memories. My personal formula is S=W+1 (*). When you arrive at a hotel and the valet waits for you to park your car, that’s good service but expected. If on top of that he calls you by your name, it’s better, and if the morning after you notice that your car has also been washed, that’s different, unique. It is great to have your luggage taken care of but if you discover after 12 hours on an plane that your bath, at the right temperature, is waiting for you, that’s exceptional. A three-starred chef would do something comparable. You said in another interview that you would certainly return to the world of hospitality. Do you have a project in mind already ? My mission within the Michelin group is not yet finished. I have so much to do and to prepare and to give to the next generation ! H.N. * “Success = Wishes + One

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Small details Make the Difference

While I was talking with Jean-Luc Naret about Tokyo, he told me that there are establishments where the water used to cook in the kitchen, comes only from Kyoto, because any other water, even if it is perfectly pure and of crystal transparency, would be just “unsuitable”

pparently, it would lessen the “nabemono” or “gohanmono”. Mr Naret defines this attention to detail as the key to any unique experience. It reminded me of angora wool from the Camdeboo region, with its Bushmen’s ancestral hills and dolerite pillars. When the wool was found, its exceptional quality impressed Scabal’s experts and they used it to create a fabric that was baptised “Kharisa”. Reminiscent of the Tokyo chef cutting artfully into the day’s vegetables that he intends to serve his guests, each Scabal garment is cut separately, according to centuries of strictly observed traditions of British tailoring, which include the ‘Sartorial’ sewing style. Far from restraining their creativity, both chefs’ and tailors’ mastery opens new avenues of complete freedom to explore, and brings creations unlike anything else in the world, like inviting a grand chef to prepare a romantic diner shared in the perfect intimacy of your home. Or, why not ask to observe and participate in the kitchen ? It would be the perfect meal.

You can count on great expectations from a Scabal personalised garment, too. Like the meal, it would in fact be your own creation, as you will have complete freedom to choose the cut, the fabric or even have your name embroidered in the lining and buttons engraved with your initials – it’s for you, and for you alone.

It sounds too good to be true, but it can actually happen.

There are gourmets travelling from far away to dine at certain famous

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Personalised cooking

restaurants, with owners who have worked their entire lives to deserve such deference. For the same reason, Scabal is acclaimed worldwide for the quality of its work. H.N. For more information on the possibilities of chefs in your home : www.prestige-vip.net

Iced desserts by Pierre Marcolini.

Pierre Marcolini puts a new spin on great patisserie classics. Try a sorbet, ice cream or crunch for an exquisite gastronomic experience. Oviedo Milk chocolate, vanilla ice cream, hazelnut nibs. Envol Dark chocolate sorbet, orange crème brûlée ice cream, crunch with caramelised avola almonds and a praliné cream. Delvaux Milk chocolate ice cream, raspberry sorbet, vanilla ice cream with cocoa chips.

www.marcolini.com B r u s s e l s -

A n t w e r p e n -

P a r i s - T o k y o -

N e w - Y o r k - K u w a l t Bespoken

B for B Exceptional machines

The destinies of master watchmakers and car manufacturers have always been intertwined. It would be difficult to assert otherwise, given the degree to which timepieces and luxury cars share the same values: prestige, precision and know-how. Firmly established in their respective activities, the notion of timelessness unites the car sector and watchmaking forever. The emergence of this mutual dependence is relatively recent. Originally, only the car industry used the services of watchmakers, the main objective being to constantly improve the performance of gas-guzzling high-power cars. But over time, the car sector has come to be seen as a buoyant means for communication aimed at showcasing and stressing the mechanical performance of Swiss-made timepieces. We highlight a textbook case reflecting the partnership of these two luxury markets: Breitling for Bentley

Ravishing lines, comfort and irreproachable mechanics characterise the Continental GT 56

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ÂŠ Breitling For Bentley

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An alliance is born under the sign of the winged “B”

For the general public, the Breitling label is traditionally associated with the world of aviation, so it is not surprising to learn that in 1936 Breitling launched a chronograph for the aircraft cockpit. Thanks to its two wings, the watchmaker’s logo reinforces the link to the aeronautical world. The recent advertising campaign also conveys this

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message by sporting John Travolta, a figure as well known for his talent as an actor as for his great enthusiasm for flying. If we look a little more closely at the beginnings of the celebrated Swiss watchmakers’ history, we will see that initially Léon Breitling did in fact develop chronographs and meters intended for the automobile sector. His son Gaston followed the path he had set out on and contributed to the brand’s success story. One of its special models, which was patented and christened

Vitesse, met with a huge success among the police, which used it to measure speeding. Today, Breitling has literally changed sides and cooperates closely with Bentley, a manufacturer that develops engines capable of reaching in excess of 300 km/hr. The policemen of the Swiss corps of mounted constabulary of the beginning of the century must be turning in their graves... During the Geneva International Car Show in 2003, Breitling thus officially launched a new collection of prestigious watches

The same watchword : personalisation

It is revealing to underline that the process of manufacturing a Bentley involves 750 people and only two robots. At Breitling, as at Bentley, it is therefore the craftsman’s hand that gives birth to the most beautiful machines. It is eyes and fingers that guide the tools to fashion the noblest materials and reveal all their lustre. Concern for a job well done,

a passion for detail and the search for excellence are the watchwords of a tradition in which time is not a factor in the accomplishment of perfection. The vocation of the two brand names is to manufacture exceptional products and to meet the requirements of the most demanding customers. It is in this perspective that Bentley developed the Mulliner workshop. Mulliner’s origins go back to 1760. In 1959 this prestigious company was bought by Rolls Royce and Bentley, which joined forces with another

produced in association with Bentley. Breitling For Bentley is more than a traditional case of co-branding. It is a genuine alliance based on common values such as performance, tradition and precision. So it is that Breitling took part in the on-board instrumentation of the Bentley Continental GT, voted “the most beautiful car in the world” and backed Team Bentley when it won the legendary Le Mans 24 Hours Race in 2003.

The Bentley Continental GT, voted “Most Beautiful Car In The World” Bespoken

ÂŠ Bentley

The process of manufacturing a Bentley involves 750 people - and only two robots 60

Bespoken

Every hour pointer on the dial is made in natural, hand-cut mother-of-pearl. A veritable masterpiece

major firm, Park Ward, three years later. During the “sharing” that took place between BMW and Volkswagen at the time of the acquisition of the two brands in 1998, Mulliner was attached to Bentley, which turned it into its department devoted to the personalisation of interiors and bodywork transformation. In this secluded workshop, several hundred craftsmen and technicians work metal, wood and leather in order to fulfil the most specific wishes of the future owners. Between technology and tradition, the notion of personalisation is taken to the extreme here. The Bentley Continental GT has been available in a Mulliner version since 2005. On the outside there is just one change: seven-radius alloy wheels, cast in two pieces, fitted with Yokohama Advan 275/35ZR20 tyres. The interior offers new seats proudly sporting the embroidered winged “B”, leather trim padded with a diamond motif and a pinked-leather roof vaulting. In order to accentuate the sporty personality of the Continental GT, Bentley has added pedals to it and a sporty looking footrest in perforated alloy, a chrome and leather clad gear lever, and a choice of accessories in dark walnut or black ebony lacquer. The manufacturer also regularly offers the possibility of personalising

the “standard” Continental GT. Thus, magnolia-coloured leather trim is available, and the consumer can choose between fittings in aluminium with diamond finishing, or ash-olive wooden or Vavona wall lights. Several options will delight the most refined of drivers : multifunctional steering wheel clad in two-tone leather, embroidered seats and door panels, seats decorated with embossed emblems and deep-pile or genuine sheep’s wool carpet. In this spirit of exclusiveness, an extraordinary timepiece is born the Mulliner Tourbillon chronograph. The innumerable possibilities for personalisation of this chronograph are directly inspired by those offered by the Bentley Mulliner workshops. Only a few dozen chronographs will be made in the next few years, at the rate of two a month. Genuine works of great expertise, these chronographs house an exceptional motor and are fitted with movements certified as chronometric by the COSC (the official Swiss Chronometer Inspection Body), the highest distinction in the field of reliability and precision. These noble machines are patiently manufactured and assembled by hand in the workshops of Breitling Chronométrie, with the aid of cutting-edge equipment and according to the highest quality standards.

The addition of exclusive modules, optimisation of components, adjustments in sensitivity and fine-tuning of the different functions are some of the measures making it possible to enhance the performance of the movements and better prepare for the COSC’s ruthless tests, just as an engine is “honed” to gain in power and reliability. Over the ten months needed to make it, every timepiece undergoes more than 100 tests. Before taking them to the road, the watches pass a technical test, lasting between three days and a week at least. Although exclusiveness comes at a price, it also has its privileges, since each Mulliner Tourbillon is personalised by its future owner. Depending on his preferences, he will choose the type of casing (in platinum or yellow gold), the colour of the dial or the shade of the bracelet in crocodile skin ; not to mention the decoration in precious wood on the back of the watch (offered in six types of wood). This masterpiece also has an exceptional heart: the hand-wound Calibre Breitling 18B, a Tourbillon chronometer exclusive to Breitling for Bentley. The rotary movement is one of the most sophisticated and hard-to-make watchmaking complications. The pendulum-spiral and escapement are housed in a mobile cage which pivots on itself - an ingenious construction making it possible to cancel out operating differences when the watch is in vertical position. The Calibre Breitling 18B has another specific characteristic : its “30-second” chronograph mechanism stands out on account of its central hand making a full turn of the dial in half a minute instead of the usual 60 seconds. What on the face of it looks like a surprising configuration enables a very precise reading of the fraction of a second, in this case 1/6. The movement is also fitted with a 15-minute accumulator and a hand calendar. Protected by a sapphire glass, the decoration in precious wood is offered in the same shades and tree species as the Bentley Mulliner wood panelling. J.S. Bespoken

Exhibitions

From “The City” to “the Big Apple”

Italy – Venezia

52nd international art exhibition

Think with the Senses. Feel with the Mind. Art in the Present Tense.

10.06 > 21.11

Art and Architecture sections Palazzo Giustinian Lolin, San Vidal, San Marco 2893 30124 Venezia T. : +39-041-5218711 E-mail : infoarchitettura@labiennale.org www.labiennale.org “While this show looks forward, it does not look back” (Robert Storr). This year, the famous international exhibition will present 91 artists from 77 countries, a record number, with works created in co-operation with the Venice Biennale for the occasion. It will be shown in the historical city centre, as well as at the Giardini and Arsenale. Since last year, these locations have been the permanent seat of the new Italian Pavilion, making its debut in 2007 as an area of future development for the Biennale exhibition spaces, with a show under the direction of Ida Gianelli, being one of the main novelties in this year’s edition. 62

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The Biennale’s curator is the influential, soon to be Dean of Yale University, Robert Storr. He is the first American in charge since the first Biennale in 1895. His artistic project also includes a Turkish Pavilion, as well as a show representing African contemporary art. Namely, the “Check List” exhibition from the Sindika Dokolo African Collection of Contemporary Art, Luanda, Angola, by curators Fernando Alvim and Simon Njami. The show will be hosted by the Arsenale Artiglierie. The African exhibition has been selected by a panel of experts invited by Robert Storr Meskerem Assegued, Ekow Eshun, Lyle Ashton Harris, Kellie Jones and Bisi Silva. Impossible to miss, and also an excellent reason to spend time in the Doges’ city.

maker and curator. With art historian Ruth Noack as curator, he will, in line with documenta’s philosophy, show art from the most varied regions of the world and in all conceivable media. documenta 12 follows three main thoughts, taking the form of the following questions. Is modernity our antiquity ? What is bare life ? What is to be done ? Answers to be revealed this summer.

nce, I used to take long-distance flights just to check if Louise Bourgeois was still alive. In NYC, I fell under the creator’s “Mother” spider, while trying to take a picture, just below the monster’s belly. The sky was turquoise, the occasional clouds immaculate, and the New York policeman who took care of me was so gentle, I was ashamed.

Germany – Kassel documenta 12 16.06 > 23.09

Documenta und Museum Fridericianum Veranstaltungs-GmbH Friedrichsplatz 18 34117 Kassel T. : +49-561-70 72 70 E-mail : info@documenta.de www.documenta12.de Taking place every five years, documenta is regarded as one of the most prominent exhibitions of contemporary art, drawing praise from all over the world. Organised for the first time in 1955 by artist and art educator Arnold Bode following Nazi dictatorship, its purpose was to reconcile German public life with international modernity. Nobody would have thought at the time that the exhibition, often called the Hundred Day Museum, would become an unparalleled success. More than 50 years later, the 12th documenta will take place this summer, under the artistic direction of Roger M. Buergel, an internationally active exhibition-

Spain – Barcelona fundació joan miró Sean Scully

28.06 > 30.09 Fundació Joan Miró Parc de Montjuïc, s/n 08038 Barcelona T. : +34-934-439 470 E-mail : fjmiro@bcn.fjmiro.es www.fjmiro.cat A retrospective on the work of Sean Scully, discreet Dubliner, who combines different pictorial styles : Geometrical Abstraction, Minimalism, Conceptual Art, and Abstract Expressionism. By changing constantly, Scully progressively creates a language of his own. By viewing his paintings, drawings and photographs together, the aficionado will be able to see the consistency emerging in his work.

United States New York

Lucian Freud : The Painter’s Etchings Ensor’s Grave by Louise Bourgeois

United Kingdom – London

Tate Modern

Turner Prize Retrospective

11.10 > 27.01

tate modern

02.10 > 06.01

Tate Modern Bankside London SE1 9TG T. +44-20-7887 8888 E-mail : visiting.modern@tate.org.uk www.tate.org.uk Since the mid-1980s, the visual-arts scene in Britain has changed enormously and, as an annual event throughout this period, the Turner Prize has both witnessed the metamorphosis and played an important role in this deep transformation. Winning artists have included Richard Deacon, Lucian Freud, Damien Hirst, Howard Hodgkin, Steve McQueen, Malcolm Morley, Gillian Wearing and Rachel Whiteread. This exhibition presents a chronological selection of key works shown over 23 years, allowing reflection upon some of the more significant moments in the recent history of British art. Turner Prize 2007 will also be hosted by Tate Liverpool from 19 October 2007 to 13 January 2008.

Louise Bourgeois

Tate Modern Bankside London SE1 9TG T. : +44-20-7887 8888 E-mail : visiting.modern@tate.org.uk www.tate.org.uk The first major showing since 1995 of the work of the French-born artist Louise Bourgeois, the exhibition at last provides the opportunity to embrace her work in its entirety. Over an exceptionally long career, Bourgeois has explored most of the major international avant-garde artistic movements of the 20th century, from Surrealism to Conceptual art, but shehas always remained uniquely apart, deeply inventive and definitely at the forefront of contemporary art. Engaging in an extraordinary diversity of modern and traditional techniques, Bourgeois has explored a wide range of styles from abstraction to resolute realism.

MoMA The Museum of Modern Art 11 West 53 Street New York, NY 10019-5497 Tel. : +1-212-708 9400 E-mail : info@moma.org - www.moma.org One of the foremost figurative artists working today, Lucian Freud has redefined portraiture and the nude by endlessly scrutinising the human body. Famous for his paintings, his etchings have however become integral to his practice. This exhibition will present the full scope of Freud’s achievements in etching, including some 75 examples ranging from rare, early experiments in the 1940s to the increasingly large and complex compositions created since the early 1980s. A dramatic and unusual cross-media installation, it will also include a selection of related paintings and drawings, illuminating the mysteries of the relationship between Freud’s etchings and paintings. The artist is not a traditional printmaker. He treats the etching plate like a canvas, standing the copper vertically. He depicts the same models in etching as in painting but with their figures dramatically cropped or isolated against empty backgrounds. The etchings thus achieve an unedited sense of psychological tension. H.N. Bespoken

The pleasure Agent Provocateur Maîtresse Don’t ever offer this to your mistress. She would never forgive your lack of delicacy. You’d do better to buy her one of the mind-blowing seductive lingerie sets for which Agent Provocateur is renowned. No, this scent is probably more suitable for your wife. Being offered a perfume called “Maîtresse” will tell her that you still love her and that, even after all the years you’ve been together, you still want her. And, when this treatment has the desired effect, you won’t need a mistress ! Agent Provocateur Maîtresse, with the scent of white lotus. 100ml : 94 € - 50ml: 62 € www.agentprovocateur.com

Montblanc 100 Years Skeleton Bohème 3

A Love (Hi)Story Antwerp jewellery designer and Art Academy teacher Anne Zellien has a passion for “Sentimental Jewellery”, a style that was very popular in 17th and 18th century Europe, which established a bond between the lady that wore it and the gentleman who bestowed it upon her. Messages and symbols, as on this lovely pendant, are very important to the fairer sex. Anne Zellien owns an exclusive shop in Antwerp’s very trendy Kammenstraat. You can always give her a call, if you want a woman’s advice on the perfect love gift. locket + chain : 520 € www.annezellien.be

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You were seriously considering expressing your love for her by SMS or email ? Come on : you can do a lot better than that. Think : have you ever seen a pile of neatly folded emails, tied up with a red ribbon and kept in a precious cedar box ? No ? Fancy that. It’s time to sit down and get to work : write her a real letter in your finest hand, and send it to her in a beautiful box, along with this glorious white-gold fountain pen, encrusted with real diamonds. The pen comes in three colours: white, blue or light-cognac, and each colour is absolutely limited to three worldwide ! Guaranteed. It’s up to you: time to choose between her or that new Aston Martin ! 147.000 € www.montblanc.com

of giving Cameleone Pequignet, peerless manufacturer of Swiss timepieces, launches a dazzling new watche collection - Cameleone. The latest addition to the widely recognised and aristocratic Pequignet range, entirely crafted in gold and diamonds, has the most refined of features: 18 ct gold set with 42 extra white diamonds, sapphire glass, and a mother-of-pearl dial set. Prices on request. www.pequignet.com

Vertu Constellation The love of your life is an exclusive, discrete and elegant lady, so she deserves a telephone to suit her image. Like all the mobile phones designed by Vertu, the new Constellation is hand-assembled in their UK workshops. This little jewel has stainless steel and leather finishing, and its ceramic buttons guarantee a lightness of touch and unparalleled solidity. The indispensable “Concierge” button gives you direct access to a stateof-the-art call centre, capable of satisfying all your desires… 3.700 € www.vertu.com

Clicquot Loveseat From famous designer Karim Rashid, the Clicquot Loveseat offers a new way to sit - pretty in pink ! The seat’s design is trailblazing - two huge flower petals come together on a chrome-plated pedestal, topped by a “pistil” in the shape of an ice bucket in the brand’s signature colours. The Loveseat continues Clicquot’s tradition of exceptional objets designed for sumptuous entertaining , beautifully adapted to Veuve Clicquot’s image. Prices on request. www.veuve-clicquot.com

Loewe Individual Limited Edition Swarovski

If you were hoping to watch the football on television accompanied by your good lady, look no further. Loewe has found it for you, by joining forces with Swarovski, the famous Austrian label-leader in the crystalware market. Loewe Individual Limited Edition Swarovski comes in two colours, Light and Dark Crystal, in a limited series of 1,000 in each colour, and offers the following characteristics : 32inch screen, HD ready (1366×768 pixels), built-in TNT receiver and 80Gb hard disc, Loewe Image+ technology and… 5,600 Swarovski crystals. 7.000 € www.loewe.com

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SCABAL WORLDWIDE : CLOTH

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or our Scabal corners in Le Printemps de l’Homme, 4th floor, 61 rue Caumartin, 75009 Paris, phone +33-1-42 82 55 33 or +33-1-42 82 40 32, scabalfrance@wanadoo.fr

VENEZUELA +58-212-264 6914 inversionesmarumi@gmail.com ASIA & OCEANIA AZERBAIJAN +99-412-989 484 salamzade@rambler.ru

More luxurious than ever, remarkably comfortable and perfectly personal, the new Scabal Spring 2008 Collection opts for new avenues, not well-trodden paths. In the next edition, we invite you to discover our latest range in the heart of the English countryside, with gentle strolls, and no rain ! G.C.

Bespoken

HONG KONG +852-25-433 694

Visit our Flagship store AT 12 Savile Row, W1S 3PQ London, phone +44-20-77 34 89 63, info@scaballondon.com

A DAY IN THE COUNTRYSIDE

BRUNEI - CAMBODIA - INDONESIA - LAOS MALAYSIA - MYANMAR - PHILIPPINES SINGAPORE - THAILAND - VIETNAM +65-63-36 0070 heefabric@hee.com.sg

Scabal Made-to-Measure +52-55-5660 75 40 cincu@prodigy.net.mx or alejandrocarreon@prodigy.net.mx

NEXT ISSUE : FEBRUARY 08

AUSTRALIA +61-3-5989 8601 tonywain@ozemail.com.au

and KaDeWe, 1st floor, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, phone +49-172-70 55 297, scabal@schiemann-berlin.de For other LOCATIONS, visit our store locator on www.scabal.com

PLUS ANCIENNE MAISON DE CHAMPAGNE DEPUIS 1729 Ruinart Belux - Chaussée de Waterloo, 868/870 - 1180 Brussels Tél: 02 373 51 10 - Fax : 02 374 92 24 - Email : info@ruinart.be - www.ruinart.com Notre savoir-faire se déguste avec sagesse