2014春夏 潮流
2014春夏 第十四期 推广定制生活品味的SCABAL行动
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We work mainly with international advertisers. If you are interested in our advertising rates, please contact : LEO bvba, Erik De Ridder edr@eventbox.be or +32 (0)486 13 13 13 Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for the views and opinions expressed in this magazine by authors and contributors. Bespoken is neither responsible for nor endorses the content of advertisements printed on its pages. Bespoken cannot be held responsible for any error or inaccuracy in such advertising material. Editor WILFRIED REDANT Publisher LEO bvba Project Coordinator JP TALBOT Styling SYLVAIN GADEYNE Graphic Design BERT WAGEMANS Writers JAMES DREW JACQUES LEGROS JOANNA PAYS ANJA VAN DEN BORGHT JP TALBOT DAVE LACKIE SIMON CROMPTON Proofreading JAMES DREW & COLIN MOORS ReadRight.be
Photographers KRIS DE SMEDT SCABAL Boulevard d’Anvers, 33 B–1000 Brussels Belgium Phone : + 32 (0)2 217 98 49 www.scabal.com Do you have any suggestions or feedback ? Let us know at www.bespoken.com Read Bespoken on your iPad : www.bespoken.com/ipad
E D I TOR I AL C O MMEN T
A HISTORY OF VALUES AND RESPECT
D
ear reader,
While working on the regular update of our corporate strategy, certain fundamental questions always arise. Where is our world going? Where is luxury consumption going? What are the upcoming trends? It is very hard, these days, to find the answers to these questions.
Two things seem to provide common ground, however – change and uncertainty are becoming the norm. With such uncertainty, values are the only substance that will hold things together. Values have always been very important to Scabal, and this is not just a marketing phrase. One of the values that we would like to underline in this particular issue is that of ‘Respect’. Respectfulness is a character trait that typifies the ‘Gentleman’, one of the main themes of this 14th issue of Bespoken. Not only does he respect others, he also certainly respects himself. This shows in his clothing, and the way he adapts his attire to his personality and physical shape. Our new creative director has dedicated some very special attention to ‘the fit’, and will explain its theoretical background. To some, the concept of ‘The Gentleman’– and we do feel that it is a concept – is outdated and old. On the contrary, we believe that the gentleman is back, and that this world of uncertainty and constant change requires men that defend values and have a style to go with it. As part of his general attitude, the gentleman is also respectful of the environment. What is more ecological than a natural fibre? Obviously natural wool, silk and cashmere are very prominent in the Scabal Fabric collection, but linen has also become an increasingly important item of choice. We will talk about its origins, history and particularities. Looking ahead, there are reasons to be optimistic. Even though things are certainly not moving forward as rapidly as they should, trend researchers are detecting a greater common awareness of global challenges. Thankfully, the luxury industry has embraced this feeling. Sustainability is the new luxury! Some of the luxury car models that are being introduced by leading brands are a proof of this latest paradigm. After 75 years in the business – yes, Scabal is proud to celebrate three quarters of a century in the trade – we can certainly say that our business model is sustainable, and we intend to continue this way. As always, we wish you very pleasant and ‘gentlemanly’ reading, Peter & Gregor Thissen
Bespoken is printed on environmentally friendly, fair-trade paper.
© Scabal
‘THE GENTLEMAN DOES NOT ONLY RESPECT OTHERS, HE ALSO CERTAINLY RESPECTS HIMSELF’
Scabal Executive Chairman Gregor Thissen and his father Honorary Chairman J. Peter Thissen YEARS
Gregor Thissen, Scabal Executive Chairman
This indicates a key article available in a variety of languages at Bespoken.com 3
75 SCABAL I N F I GUR E S
A world of men and bespoken creativity
Scabal celebrated its 75th anniversary last year. Here are some of the highlights of its extraordinary history. By Wilfried Redant
THE 1930’S to the acquisition of the Feintuch and 1938: German entrepreneur Otto Hertz Westtuch companies. (1903 – 1991) starts his business in BrusTHE 1950’S sels, Belgium. 1950: A special ‘Export’ department was created at Scabal Headquarters to follow up the increasing demand for fabrics in several European countries.
1962: First steps are made into the Japanese market. In 1966 Scabal introduces its fabrics in Japan in collaboration with Itochu, who has remained our privileged partner till today. 1964: At the traditional wool sale in
1953: Scabal buys Wainshiell, whose origins date back to 1807 and who had by 1830 established an excellent reputation in Warwick Street, the centre of woollen merchanting in the West End of London. Scabal invents the famous fabric bunches and introduces the Superlana collection.
THE 1940’S In a difficult after-war climate, the Scabal brand and company name - Société Commerciale Anglo Belgo Allemande Luxembourgeoise - is officially launched on the 18th of June 1946.
Australia, a record is set for the purchase price of a bale of wool that was three times the previous price. Scabal obtained full ownership of this unique lot and gave the collection the name ‘Ultimus’, the most expensive cloth in the world.”
THE 1970’S 1949: Opening of a Scabal office on Hed- From 1907 they were registered on Savdon Street in London, while extending ile Row and Scabal have maintained a 1970: J.-Peter Thissen, Otto Hertz’s most presence on the German market thanks presence there ever since. valued associate, is elected to manage the company. 1958: Scabal, pioneers in the digital field, introduce IBM computers in a newly 1971: Scabal commissions famous built and larger office (read more on painter Salvador Dali to imagine what pages 24-25). will be men’s fashion in the 21st century. Dali produces 12 exclusive paintings THE 1960’S for Scabal that are still owned by the 1960: Scabal launches its “International company. conferences” in Knokke Le Zoute in Belgium. 1972: Scabal opens a showroom on Savile Row, London and introduces its fabrics range in the US. 4
than the first Super 100’s - and called it “Jewel”.
THE 1980’S Leather and velvet packaging are used for luxurious bunches. Special boxes are made to introduce the top range of Scabal fabrics. Exclusive cars such Scabal provides fabrics for several films as Bentleys and Rolls Royce, as well as made in USA. A close and longstanding yachts, appear on window displays. Senrelationship thus commences with the sation, Nobility and Velours are only a few Hollywood film industry and Broadway, of the remarkable bunches that appeared for whom Scabal becomes a privileged during this flamboyant period in fashion fabrics provider. Scabal has notably history. provided fabrics for The Godfather, Casino, Men in Black, The Aviator and 1982: The Scabal descriptive labels on many more. In London, Scabal begins a the fabrics are now printed. Up till then close collaboration with theatres in the all had been hand written. West End. Several accessories are made under the name “Scarab” to complement the fabrics range. In the eighties sweaters, shirts, belts, and many more items were added under the same name. 1973: Scabal acquires the Bower Roebuck fabrics mill in Huddersfield, Yorkshire. The firm has produced exquisite fabrics since 1899, when Messrs Bower and Roebuck registered the company and renamed the mill as Glendale Mills. 1989: Scabal builds its new warehouse of over 6000 m2 near the heart of Brussels. 1974: Scabal launches its first ready-to- Scabal acquires the Tailor Hoff factory wear range and supports it with the first at Saarbrücken, on the Franco-German border, and starts to develop its ‘madeadvertising campaigns. to-measure’ system. Scabal pioneered a finer wool than the standard “Super 100’s”. Scabal’s own THE 1990’S mill in Yorkshire was the first company 1991: Scabal converts 12 Savile Row, to manufacture cloth classified as Super London into a flagship store carrying all 120’s - approximately one micron finer clothing, fabrics and accessories.
The quest for ever finer wools is continued by being the first to launch a “Super 150’s” under the bunch name “Golden Carat” using 15.3 micron wool. This prestigious cloth is top of the line, with the weaving process exclusively at Scabal’s mill. These are now international standards of quality and excellence and
will later be followed by finer and finer wools that were previously thought to be beyond technology: Super 180’s and Super 200’s. Son of Mr. Peter Thissen, Gregor Thissen joins the company. 1994: Scabal launches a full range of accessories and achieves another breakthrough in textile technology by producing the lightest cashmere suiting ever made. “Fascination” is the result of a very close co-operation between spinners and weavers, with textile engineers having to adjust their machinery to spin cashmere at less than 15 microns. 1997: Scabal creates Initials: a Super 150’s fabric can be woven with the
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initials of yourself or a loved one in the pinstripe.
After incorporating both gold and diamonds in its cloths, Scabal introduces Lapis Lazuli, an ancient stone that has 1999: Scabal launches its “Sartoriale” always appealed to man’s imagination. line, a handmade product for the most demanding suit wearer. Later this line 2004: In the continuous quest for softer will be renamed N°12, the house number and more luxurious fabric, Scabal has of the Scabal store on Savile Row in combined the softest wool in Super London. 200’s with Vicuna to create a sensational quality “The Star”.
THE 2000’S
size outfits respecting the finest tailoring 2005: Scabal launches a comprehensive, traditions. unique online fabrics catalogue with photos of over 5,000 fabrics, including 2010: Treasure Box was launched to mark the innovation of Scabal to include Scabal launches the first Dali fabrics collec- extensive search functionalities. precious stones into fabrics. At the same 2006: Gregor Thissen becomes Scabal time Platinum was added in the range to Co-CEO. From here onwards, father meet the growing demand of the luxuriand son work together on a daily basis, ous fabrics with exceptional look and feel. in both a family and international spirit. 2011: Scabal adopts a new logo, a mix Scabal launches Yangir for suits, a fabric between the historical lion monogram softer and finer than cashmere named after and the modern logo used for the clotha wild, rare mountain goat which inhabits ing line, also known as finished products. the Mongolian high mountains and is called “the golden fleece” by specialists. An iPad app is launched to read the Bespoken magazine digitally. tion in honour of the 12 paintings Dali had made in 1971, with his vision on men and In the summer Scabal launches Summit. fashion in the 21st century. To pay homage Highly skilled craftsmen have spun Scabal produces the most exclusive to Dali’s vision, Scabal have recreated and woven this exceptional cloth and diamond cufflinks to celebrate 10 years fabrics for six of the works of art which are have called it themselves their lifetime of the Diamond Chip fabrics range. presented in a book and were available in achievement. a strictly limited quantity. To illustrate his A first monobrand store is opened in future looks, historic fashion plates were Scabal pushes the boundaries once more Germany, the chosen city is Frankfurt. put next to his most daring paintings. by introducing the possibility to weave a complete text into the stripe of a Super 2012: Bespoken celebrates its 10th 2001: Scabal launches the Diamond Chip 180’s and cashmere cloth. edition and is also published in Russian exclusive fabrics, a most innovative way and Chinese. to interpret the most exclusive collection. 2007: Scabal launches its international From there on more precious stones and magazine Bespoken. 2013: Opening of a flagship store in Brussels, Belgium, as well as a new store metals such as gold, platinum and lapis lazuli are used to launch exquisite ranges In collaboration with London College in Beijing, China. gathered in a Treasure Box. of Fashion and Mr. Alan Cannon-Jones, its Director, the drawings that Dali made Scabal launches the Peace Fund using 2003: Scabal strenghtens its presence in in the seventies for Scabal come to life. the Private Line cloth to bring a message France by opening a shop-in-shop in the Twenty years after the master’s death of peace and support to Doctors Without they are reproduced by students in life Borders. famous Printemps department store. 2000: A partner store and shop-in-shop is opened in Turkey.
Scabal shoes and bags ranges are born. New headquarters are built in Brussels
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I NT ERVIEW
THE GENTLEMAN
Actor Simon Baker is one of Hollywood’s best-dressed leading men…and one of television’s most private actors. Here, The Mentalist star agrees to a rare interview and makes a case for the return of gentlemanly behavior. By Dave Lackie
To start, you’ve been described as TV’s true gentleman. How do you respond to that compliment? Simon Baker: Being a gentleman is an interesting concept. Most people think of it in a particularly old-fashioned way. But I think a gentleman is a timeless concept. It used to be that you were born into being a gentleman, but these days you can become a gentleman. For me, it’s aspirational to be a gentleman. As a child, I was brought up being taught respect, manners, courtesy, humility and that was the way you approached life, what you aspired to be. I think that now the idea of fashion and masculinity successfully meld together. It’s acceptable to be masculine, independent, and strong, and at the same time to be socially aware of the way you carry yourself, the way you appear, your sense of style, your own sense of being. I think we have come a long way in that regard. Now we have what can be referred to as the modern gentleman, someone that is aware of how they present themselves.
Are good manners a thing of the past?
What’s the most important thing you’ve learned in your career?
S.B.: I feel chivalry is a little lost these days. If you accidentally cut someone off in Los Angeles, you find someone hanging out the window swearing at you. But if you offer to help someone, it’s remarkable the reaction you get. It’s so not expected. That said good manners are very important to me.
S.B.: The biggest lesson I’ve learned in Hollywood is fame is fleeting. I’ve been in this business long enough to know that all of this is fleeting. What’s important is that I’m comfortable with myself – that I’ve been straightforward and honest with everyone. My family is my focus and if it ends tomorrow, there are plenty of other things I’d like to pursue that the world doesn’t have to know about.
What gentlemen do you most admire? S.R.: I admire how actors like Cary Grant and Jimmy Stewart dealt with press and their image. It was a simpler time back then and actors could present an image of ease, elegance and grace. What I particularly liked about Jimmy is that he felt authentic all the time. You always felt that he was being true to himself. That’s something I really appreciate. But I’d don’t fall for nostalgia. I never try to mold myself after anyone.
Tell us about your style on The Mentalist. S.B.: The three-piece suit look that I wear on the show is something I came up with myself. My character, Patrick Jane, is a con man who practices sleight of hand. So I thought the idea of wearing a waistcoat lent to that nicely. I took the idea from a Charlie Chaplin character. The costume 9
‘BEING A GENTLEMAN IS A TIMELESS CONCEPT. IT USED TO BE THAT YOU WERE BORN INTO BEING A GENTLEMAN, BUT THESE DAYS YOU CAN BECOME A GENTLEMAN.’
© Givenchy
Simon Baker
designer on the show has all the suits made.
Tell us about your personal style. S.B.: I appreciate beautiful things. I like a well-cut suit. I like things that look good to my eye. But I’m not a slave to it. I can appreciate the beauty of an Apple iPhone as much as a beautifully crafted pair of shoes. Of course, if I find a dress shirt that fits me well, I’ll buy a couple at once. I like to be efficient. I like classic things with a healthy dose of rebelliousness and audacity. I like to look presentable. There’s a sense of self-pride when you dress well. A man should wear his clothes, the clothes shouldn’t wear the man. He should find clothes that underlie the essence of who he is. 10
Who are your film icons?
What was your worst fashion mistake?
S.B.: Marcello Mastroianni was the actor I most admired growing up. The guy was just so cool – even when he was being humiliated in a movie. Jean-Paul Belmondo is also innately cool. I looked to European actors for inspiration. I think part of the appeal here was an Australian lad watching a foreign film with subtitles.
S.B.: The worst fashion mistakes are always made out of nostalgia. I remember in 1991, I had landed some regular acting work and was making good money. There was this black Quicksilver leather jacket with the logo across the entire back that I spotted when I was 17. It looked so cool to me then. So I decided to buy it. When I got home, I was so excited to show my wife. She took one look at it and said, “What is that?” I never wore it.
What do you like to do when you aren’t working? S.B.: When I’m not working (which is rare these days), I love to spend time with my family. My kids love to play tennis. And my youngest son is into making stuff so we spend a lot of time in the garage taking apart things. I love it.
What advice would you give guys today? S.B.: The most important lesson I’ve learned so far in life is to be patient. I kind of feel like I spent most of my 20s being impatient. Now that I’m in my 40s, I’m more accepting of the quiet times. It’s okay to be patient.
DRESSING WITH PERSONALITY It doesn’t do to look perfect. To borrow from Hardy Amies, it is good to look as if you have forgotten all about your clothes. Even if you have chosen them with care. Simon Baker in his role as The Mentalist is a perfect example. He has a distinct style, instantly identifiable in his trademark three-piece suit and open collar. In the waistcoat on its own, particularly, he stands out from all around him without appearing to make any effort to do so. Style is subtle. So how does one replicate that subtle air? Don’t just wear a waistcoat, obviously. It is about the attitude that the clothes present, rather than the clothes themselves. For example, a dark tie and white linen handkerchief will always be correct. But it is also a touch formal and hard to harness as an expression of personality. Try mixing up the materials or textures. A wool handkerchief, for example – it has the same matte texture as the linen, and therefore compliments it in the same way, but has none of the formality. Usually such hanks work best in wool/silk mixes, to retain a little bit of body and lustre. Mix up patterns too, always making sure to keep adjacent ones in radically different sizes. And add a little unexpected colour, always dark to start with – dark purple, deep green, burnt oranges, all so much easier to work in than primary colours. In the end, it is about finding a language with which to express yourself. Just try and whisper rather than shout.
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S C ABAL SHOP S
SPREADING THE WORLD Thanks to additional locations, the spirit, style and unequalled quality of Savile Row are now accessible in other cities – the entire range of 5,000 fabrics, Made-To-Measure suits, N°12 and accessories are available to a wider audience. By James Drew
S
BEIJING
cabal is proud to announce the opening of its first store in China. Located in the China World Mall in the Chaoyang District, Beijing, it offers all Scabal’s customary lines, fabrics and accessories. Based on the store concept that was recently launched for the new flagship store in Brussels, it is a comfortable and luxurious store that has been built to cater for the most demanding suit wearer.
and restaurant strips. Store manager Douglas Zhu told Bespoken: “I joined Scabal’s retail team in November 2011, when Scabal first indicated that it wanted to develop the China market – a potentially huge future market. I very much appreciate Mr. Thissen giving me the opportunity to join Scabal’s programme.”
PARIS
The Scabal Made-To-Measure store in Paris is set to move from Square de l’Opera to the prestigious Avenue George V. To provide customers with only the finest service and attention The store is located in Chaoyang which to detail, the store is accessible by is home to the majority of Beijing’s appointment only. Together with its many foreign embassies, the well-known presence at Le Bon Marché and through Sanlitun bar street, as well as Beijing’s our multi-brand resellers, Scabal is growing central business district. The now sure that Paris and its visitors can Olympic Green, built for the 2008 Sum- benefit from Scabal’s apparel to the mer Olympics, is also in Chaoyang, and fullest. Allow Laurent and Guillaume the area is also home to Silk Street, and to guide you and provide style advice many other market areas, shopping malls, with an exquisite French touch.
China World Mall No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue Chaoyang District, Beijing, P.R.China +86–10–59 611 105 scabal.store@scabalchina.com
LONDON
And, last but not least, Scabal is renovating its world-renowned Savile Row flagship store according to its latest shop concept. The address is unique – it is the playground of only the world’s finest tailors, and Scabal is proud to have a store that offers its entire range in a sophisticated but comfortable setting, with Ricky Sahota, store manager, able to tailor you to perfection with his many years of experience. Scabal has always been historically based in Savile Row, the famous street in London where bespoke tailoring first saw the light of day. Right in the heart of the city of London, Scabal dresses men of exceptional reputation. As Retail Sales Manager Ricky Sahota told Bespoken last winter: “The renovation started on 25 November 2013 and we will be re-opening early February – the whole team is very excited!” All stores: www.scabal.com/stores
19, Avenue George V 75008 Paris, France
12, Savile Row W1S 3PQ London, United Kingdom
+33–1–42 66 93 59 shopparis@scabal.com
+44–20–77 34 89 63 shoplondon@scabal.com 13
M R. VOY A GE R
Soft jacket, Chinos, Shirt, Shoes, Bag, Socks and Belt: Scabal
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FABRIC N°801943 AND MR. VOYAGER
Always cheerful and rarely seen without a smile, Mr. Voyager doesn’t like the grass to grow under his feet. A man of many parts, his entrepreneurial zeal is matched only by his stamina for a fulfilling social life. It’s often difficult to know where work ends and leisure time begins with this radiant and charming fellow. Central to his summertime wardrobe is fabric n° 801943, a pure linen cloth with an indigo ground shade and a clever double windowpane overcheck. The natural finish and feel of this St. Tropez cloth are so well suited to the soft make of the slim-fitting jacket. The perfect complement is a pair of neat chinos. With his smart overnight bag, Mr. Voyager is all set to charm whoever he meets next.
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M R. VOY A GE R : H I S A CC E SSO R I E S
CASUAL SUMMERTIME
ACCESSORIES
Whether at home or on the road, Mr. Voyager appreciates the practicality of his chosen accessories - according to his own image and tastes, they represent a gentleman of “savoir-faire� and a businessman who knows how to enjoy the finer things in life.
Bag: Weekender briefcase in ultra-soft calfskin. Two-tone colour with contrast stitching. Adjustable shoulder strap with leather finish.
Shoes: Dynamic Derbies made of soft suede calf leather. Rubber sole for extreme lightness.
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Belts: Belts in French calfskin with brass buckle. Elk printed with stitching and edges in white contrast.
Polo: Polo shirt in fine crĂŞpe made from pure cotton Pima Peruvian dyed yarn.
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Drive a new Lexus IS 300h from € 36.900, inc. VAT. Come see for yourself at the Open Door Days on June 22 and 23. Find your nearest Lexus dealer on lexus.be Lexus. Big Luxury, small taxes.
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MR. VOYAGE R : H I S F A V OUR I T E D EST I N AT I O N
THE EVER CHANGING CITY During his frequent travels around the world, the Qatari capital of Doha has become Mr Voyager’s favourite city destination. In constant evolution, since his first visit a decade ago, Doha’s skyline has changed almost beyond recognition. Besides the new surprises that await him on each visit and its fascinating architecture, it is the city’s startling contrast between modernity and mystical that Mr Voyager finds so attractive. By Joanna Pays Aspire Tower
R
ising out of the desert, on the coast of the Persian Gulf, Doha’s origins began centuries ago as a pearl fishing and trading centre. Moored along the Cornish, Doha’s shoreline promenade, traditional Dhow boats as used by the pearl fishermen can still be found. The Dhows, in their reincarnation as floating restaurants, now make the ideal vantage point for admiring the mirage-like spectacle of Doha’s skyline reflected in the sea.
Besides billion dollar commercial and residential real estate ventures, Qatar’s energy revenues have been invested in
Souk Waqif
futuristic infrastructure projects. The Qatar Foundation has been spearheading the country’s drive to position itself as more than just a carbon-based economy, but as a major international player in education, sports excellence and the arts. Amongst these impressive initiatives is Doha Education City, a vast complex of educational institutions, including campuses of world leading universities.
being Doha Sports City, known as the Aspire Zone. Constructed prior to the 2006 Asian World Games, the Aspire Zone will again take centre stage in 2022, when it plays host to the FIFA World Cup. As a keen sportman, Mr Voyager appreciates Doha’s range of other state-of-the-art sporting venues such its championship level golf club, the Al Shaqab equestrian centre and the international motor-racing circuit. When time permits, Mr Voyager heads beyond WORLD CLASS the outskirts of the city in a 4-wheel SPORTING FACILITIES drive vehicle for an adrenaline-fuelled The Qatar Foundation has also been pro- adventure across the desert. moting the construction of championship level sporting facilities, the most visible Exotic and fascinating, Doha is a city of contrasts - from its deserts and palm trees, to shimmering skyscrapers. The city combines the most ambitious of architectural design with gracious oriental forms and labyrinth-like souks, where the sound of call to prayer echoes across the air. However of all of Doha’s wonders, it is the Aspire Tower that resonates the most with Mr. Voyager. A 300 metre torch-like structure, topped by a massive flame-shaped cauldron, its avant-gardiste architect Hadi Simaan describes the building as “a celebration of earth and sky”. From the tower’s observation desk with its 360 degree views over the city, the sea and the desert, Mr Voyager can only agree. 19
White Shadow
Art Luxury & Investment presents
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MR. VOYAGE R : H I S W A TCH
OCEAN WATCH Mr. Voyager likes to vary the watch he wears depending on the occasion, or even his mood. He is particularly fond of one of the timepieces in his collection. Practical and resistant, it has accompanied him to the four corners of the world…and its oceans.
T
he Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GMT GoodPlanet is a very special watch for Mr. Voyager. Naturally, he appreciates it’s technological performance, as the descendant of the first true diving watch, created in 1932. Moreover, this wristwatch serves as a tribute to GoodPlanet Foundation and the work it does for the environment and underwater ecosystems. Mr. Voyager first discovered the Foundation when he was in Shanghai, during the screening of the Planet Ocean documentary by Yann Arthus-Bertrand and Michael Pitiot. These two French film makers and Swiss watchmaker OMEGA were making a stop in the city, as part of their world tour to bring ecology to the forefront of public awareness and encourage people to take action.
© Hugues Vitry
By JP Talbot
The film, which can be viewed for free on the internet, was made in the most extreme geographical locations. Its objective is to advocate a greater respect for the world we live in. Since its premiere in June 2012, Planet Ocean has been presented to enthusiastic audiences in major cities around the world.
was designed with adventurers in mind and is water resistant to 60 bar (600 metres/2000 feet).
The timepiece features a bold blue lacquered dial with applied indexes. The bright orange GMT scale on the bezel ring and central GMT hand make it possible to track two separate time zones, ideal for Mr. Voyager who enjoys explorSEPARATE TIME ZONES ing the planet’s oceans, lakes and rivers The Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M at first-hand. The caseback, engraved GMT GoodPlanet is clearly inspired with “GoodPlanet Foundation”, features by the diverse colours of the ocean, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and is available with a classic stainless making it possible to see the Co-Axial steel bracelet or a sporty blue rubber calibre 8605 mechanization within. strap. Like all of OMEGA’s Seamaster Planet Ocean timepieces, this model OMEGA has committed a portion of the proceeds from this model to fully funding a project for preserving the mangroves and seagrasses in south-east Asia. This project includes the education of the local population about the conservation of these important natural resources that are such a critical part of a balanced eco-system. www.goodplanet.org www.omegawatches.com 21
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MR. VOYAGE R : H I S C A R
POWER TO THE GREEN STATUS
PORSCHE CAYENNE HYBRID S 2013 To respond to his cravings elsewhere, both for work and relaxation, Mr. Voyager has decided to combine what is useful and pleasant with the eco-friendly. He has opted for the new Porsche Cayenne Hybrid S 2013, the perfect vehicle to go beam a legendary broad smile in the environs of Saint-Tropez, for example ... By Jacques Legros
S
eeking new impetus, top-of-the-range SUV manufacturers have decided to gamble on hybrid technology, a movement that Porsche also adheres to with the launch of the Cayenne Hybrid S 2013.
Far from the previous restyling, this time Porsche has spared no stylistic effort and has refined the profile of the new model to obtain a silhouette that is simultaneously both more fluid and sharp, reminiscent of the 911 or of the Panamera. With a muscular bonnet, the rear wings are not to be outdone; the greatest novelty arising from the distinctive rear view with clustered light modules and a completely redesigned tailgate. Even if it seems smaller than the first generation, the new Cayenne has however been enlarged in three dimensions including an increased-volume luggage compartment. In addition, it is lighter, through the use
of lightweight materials. This benefits the hybrid version, which is made heavier by the batteries. The interior is also restyled with a central console inherited from the Panamera, while the space is structured following the extended powerful lines recalling the body design. Finally, for an even more sporty feel, the ‘cockpit’ design better envelops the driver, who will also appreciate the new sports wheel. Another important innovation is that the hybrid version operates a V6 of 333 hp in tandem with 228 V batteries capable of providing an additional 47 hp. This electricity will be of great value and a source of economy, especially in urban areas. By contrast, in requesting the two sources of energy via the kick-down, Mr. Voyager will benefit from only 20 hp less acceleration than that with the Cayenne S V8 petrol version. Consequently there will be accelerations worthy of its S acronym, but without having to draw on the mechanical ... 23
IT SPEC I A L
NEW-LOOK WEBSITE
As is always the case when the New Year arrives, Scabal has not forgotten its endless batch of good resolutions. But the brand has not simply rested on its good intentions: after several months of preparation, it has now launched its completely redesigned website, and this is the occasion to remember that the brand has always been among the trend-setters in the IT sector… By Jacques Legros
A
lthought very respective of its history GLOBAL EVOLUTION R A H B E R T O U N E S Q U E visual communication aux Briques 56, 1000 Bruxelles t +32 498 59 36 57 info@sarahbertounesque.be www.sarahbertounesque.be andS Aapproach to a traditional Quai product, Thanks to its management’s visionary spirit, Scabal underScabal has always been open to new stood the complete relevance of investing in computor science. technology. But let us return to the Its IT service has never ceased to develop, following in the prehistory of IT…it was in 1958 that wake of global computing developments. The first central the world discovered the ‘miracles’ of computor was joined by a second – a rare occurrence for a company of this size – then came the Windows generation. computer science. Although the customized mainframe system met expectations, Among the forefathers in Belgium, Scabal was one of the need for external interactions and network technologies the first companies to obtain one of the first computors led Scabal to move to a more flexible standard system. flown in from across the Atlantic. This was in effect a central computer (mainframe) bearing the logo IBM, ADDED VALUE which required 30 m² space and provided a laughable True to its image as a computing pioneer, already back in 2000 performance compared with current facilities. Scabal set its sights on SAP, a powerful ERP system with a 24
multitude of possible combinations and more customization and integration possibilities. As claimed in the saying “it’s not the technology that matters, but what you do with it”, and today this system can above all support new developments and projects with high added value. And all this, while eliminating to the highest degree internal operational needs, with a particular concern for transparency.
MORE ATTRACTIVE AND AESTHETIC
The visible interface of this hidden computing facet of Scabal, its website (www.scabal.com) has been treated as we have mentioned to a facelift. On the site, new technologies have been utilised to give Scabal an original and far more attractive and aesthetic image. You will also find the huge catalogue with its 5,000 fabrics launched in 2005. Its extended search possibilities and easy ordering for Business customers remain SERVICE PROVIDER unique in the fabrics trade up to today. In addition, Scabal Since the 1950’s, the biggest change has been that now the continues to be present on the social networks (cf. frame). In whole of society is connected. IT now affects all departments, short, a New Year which for Scabal already means increased and is no longer the unique preserve of the accounting visibility... department. The IT department has in fact become the service provider for those who manage the needs of the company, from the purchase of raw materials to billing, order processing and production, and from marketing to human resources.
REAL TIME
A characteristic that is specific to Scabal – the company has pushed the SAP system and its various modules to their limits, which is inherent not only to the complexity of Scabal’s projects and products, but also to their willingness to work as much as possible in real time. Each incoming order is immediately processed and integrated into the flow up until delivery and invoicing. This is a feat that once again multiplies their flexibility and performance. Without this powerful system Scabal could not carefully manage its wide range of 5,000 fabrics or its incredible range of options for a bespoke suit (embroidery, types of linings, buttons), which translates into endless combinations and therefore a 100% personalised suit of unparalleled quality.
FOLLOW SCABAL ON THE SOCIAL NETWORKS: www.facebook.com/scabal www.twitter.com/scabal www.youtube.com/scabalfashion www.vimeo.com/scabal www.pinterest.com/scabal www.foursquare.com/scabal www.linkedin.com/company/scabal www.google.com/+scabal www.instagram.com/scabal
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SCABAL C L OTH TR E N DS
SPRING-SUMMER
2014 CLOTHS
Technical expertise driven by contemporary creativity has produced an outstanding cloth collection for Spring-Summer 2014. From highly desirable entry-level suitings to the most luxurious and refined specialist qualities, Scabal’s discerning clientele will find much to delight them in the new season’s selections. By Wilfried Redant
CAPRI 501081-501121
LONDONER 752641-752690
the cloth has an ideal weight. The weave construction gives nice fall, drape and a Colourful as a rainbow, the Capri shows This collection is made for real metropol- soft, elegant sheen. all shades you may wish for, including itan business men. Londoner presents the new fashionable shades flashy lime, a sophisticated Super 140’s cloth made ST. TROPEZ coral-red, turquoise, steel blue, dress in England with a light weight of 250g. 801921-801945 blue, berry, dark violet and sedge green, St. Tropez presents a big range of pure grey melange and bright navy. Elegant, attractive window-pane checks linens, pure cottons as well as cool as well as soft pastel stripes introduce summer blends. The fresh cool wool in a solid plain the collection of 50 articles. weave construction offers dependability With its comfortable wearing properties and variety and weighs 260g. The range follows elegant stripes on these natural fibres are really essentials bright mid blue, grey, navy or brown for the hot summer season. The colour HEROIC ground weave and ends up with formal palette contains pastel shades as soft 703551-703621 blue, mint-green and light grey as well herringbones, self stripes and plains. The Heroic answers the demands of as fashionable summer darks like brown, today’s man. A medium weight of 280g The choice of pleasing designs looks navy and brown-red/dark rust. makes the cloth suitable for all year again more attractive on this fine yarn YOUNG GENERATION round and the wide choice of the 71 count and gives an elegant appearance. articles offers variety in design and shade. 801951-801970 The sturdy twill weave of the Super 100’s COSMOPOLITAN Scabal’s Young Generation reflects the 752691-752699 actual trend for very casual jacketings Wool gives reliability, elegance and good A luxury summer blend of fine Super 150’s in plain and semi-plain designs. The wearing properties. with shiny Silk and cool Mohair is created collection shows therefore a variation NOBILITY under the name Cosmopolitan. As the of different composition and structures 852251-852270 name lets imagine, this is an ideal cloth for based on linen and cotton. Shades are A composition of silk and wool offers a elegant globetrotters maybe even fond of mainly more discreet: beige, brown and comfortable summer blend in a luxury the vintage red cocktail. The cloth offers a blue are most important. perfect, elegant look even in the hot sun. manner. Stay cool and comfortable wherever you are. COLIBRI Soft and pastel shades as mellow rosé, 802011-802022 sky blue and soft green underline the SHUTTLE This collection is really no “mainstream”. smooth character of the cloth. No less 752701-752712 Colibri shows 12 brand new jacketing important and elegant are mid to dark Elegant, urban suitings in a fine Super designs, 100% pure new Wool, woven in 120’s quality are offered by the Shuttle Scabal’s mill in Huddersfield, England blue designs. collection. With a reduced colour palette in unique and fascinating designs. That’s The collection of 20 new articles offers of blues, greys and browns the collection not a collection for the faint hearted fashionable checks, as well as hound- lives from its light- dark contrast which persons but for everybody who wants stooth, plains and semi-plains. makes it an exciting proposition. At 250g to make a statement in fashion. 26
FRESH Fresh is Scabal’s new jacketing collection made out of fine pure new Wool. In addition to the nice handle of the lightweight cloth, a special cool finish gives extra wearing properties. This special finish leaves nearly no surface fibers which makes the fabric very clean allowing air to circulate more easily and therefore ventilate the wearer. The volume of the cloth is reduced with extra press. This thin fabric does not insulate the body and is therefore cooler as there is no trapped air. Both make the cloth feel lighter and more comfortable permanently. On top of this the finish gives the fabric an advanced moisture management which means that sweat is conducted away from the body and dissipated through the fabric as one knows from the effect of outdoor clothing base layers. The quick drying properties offer comfort even during hot summer days. Lusty shades as red, summery turquoise, pea-green and azure underline the fresh feeling of the cloth. To view all new fabrics, visit www.scabal.com/fabricscat
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There is a reason why you have never seen this model, Raidillon is exclusively limited to 55 original Masterpieces.
S C ABAL SPR I N G- S UM M E R 2 0 1 4 T R EN D S
SUIT: Londoner, Super 140’s 100% wool, 2/2 twill stripe, 250 grams, made in England * fabric n° 752657 SHIRT: ref. E4 3079 Oxford-patterned shirt made from two-ply fabric in natté weave. TIE: Brighton, 3100 Tie in silk satin weave. SHOES: Classics collection, model L 506 00 Polished French calfskin with Goodyear welded sole. SOCKS: Pacific Filoscozia socks made with the finest Egyptian cotton with reinforced heels and toes that are knitted by hand. HANDKERCHIEF: York, 7255 Cotton and linen handkerchief with printed and hand-rolled edges.
MODERN BRITISH LUXURY 29
SUIT: Silver Cloud, Super 120’s 100% wool, 240 grams * fabric n° 703324 SHIRT: ref. F1 3099 Super-fine poplin shirt made from compact cotton. TIE: Oxford, 2075 Refined summer tie in airy natté weave. SHOES: Classics collection, model L 526 00 Classic moccasin from shiny polished French calfskin. SOCKS: Pacific Filoscozia socks from finest Egyptian cotton with reinforced heels and toes that are knitted by hand.
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SOFT JACKET: St. Tropez, pure linen, 2/2 twill check, 270 grams * fabric n째 801939 TROUSERS: Chino, model C 451 00 Pure cotton gaberdine chinos, piece dyed with sartorial details. SHIRT: Ref. F2 3171 Patterned plain-weave shirt with soft button down collar. TIE: Birmingham, 6092 Pure linen plain-weave tie, piece dyed. SHOES: Seasonal collection, model L 533 01 Derby in ultra-light calf suede.
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SOFT JACKET: Young Generation, performance linen wool, 280 grams * fabric n째 801963 TROUSERS: Jeans, Weekend, J 402 00 Jeans made from precious original Japanese denim (Kuroki) with two different finishes, classic or sport. SHIRT: Ref. E4 3090 Sportive shirt in plain pure linen, slim fit with soft collar. SCARF: Chelsea, 8085 Superfine pure cotton voile scarf in multicolour print. SHOES: Seasonal collection, model L532 01 Unlined sneaker from laser-cut calfskin nappa with ultra-light soles.
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JACKET: St. Tropez, pure linen, 2/2 twill check, 270 grams * fabric n째 801937 JEANS: model J 401 00, 55514 Piece dyed five pocket jeans in pure cotton gaberdine. SHIRT: Ref. F1 3107 Slim-fitting super-fine cotton shirt with soft collar. TIE: Birmingham, 6091 Pure linen tie with multicolour print. SHOES: Seasonal collection, model L530 01 Nubuck sneaker with contrast stitching. HANDKERCHIEF: York 7256 Cotton and linen handkerchief with printed and hand-rolled edges BELT: Devonport 1 Nubuck belt with hand finished brass buckle.
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JACKET: St. Tropez, pure linen, 2/2 twill check, 270 grams * fabric n° 801934 JEANS: Model J 401 00, 55513 Piece dyed five pocket jeans in pure cotton gaberdine. SHIRT: Ref. E4 3072 Jacquard weave shirt with casually soft BD collar. TIE: Oxford, 2075 Refined summer tie in airy nattÊ weave. SHOES: Seasonal collection, model L531 01 Super lightweight moccasin, deerskin-printed calf leather, contrast colour stiching.
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周末轻便装：款型 I 303 00 无衬修身罗织弹力棉外套 牛仔裤：款型J 401 00, 55513 匹染五口袋纯棉华达呢牛仔裤 围巾：Westminster, quality 8064 亚麻棉混纺提花围巾 衬衫：编号F1 3107 修身超细纯棉软领衬衫 手帕：Quality York 手工卷边亚麻棉混纺印花手帕 皮带：Canberra 1 带撞色接缝边和铜包扣的麋鹿印花小牛皮皮带 鞋子：季节系列，款型L531 01 超轻运动款鹿皮印花莫卡辛牛皮鞋
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周末轻便装：款型 I 302 00 匹染弹力棉外套 衬衫：F1 3107 修身超细纯棉软领衬衫 围巾： Westminster, quality 8064 精细亚麻棉混纺提花围巾 牛仔裤：款型J 401 00, 55513 匹染五口袋纯棉华达呢牛仔裤 手帕：Quality York 手工卷边亚麻棉混纺印花手帕 雨衣：周末系列，款型 I 322 00 休闲款轻便雨衣 皮带：Canberra 1 带撞色接缝边和铜包扣的麋鹿印花法国小牛皮皮带 鞋子：季节系列，款型L531 01 超轻运动款鹿皮印花莫卡辛牛皮鞋
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外套：圣特罗佩，纯亚麻条纹，240克*面料n°801945 裤子：纯亚麻，英格兰制造，260克*面料n°801945 POLO衫：亚利桑那，菲尼克斯款型 埃及棉与Filoscozia纱混纺精细罗织polo衫 包：款型 V 603 01, art. 666 22 极软小牛皮制成的撞色缝线双色公文包 鞋子：季节系列，款型L 533 01 极轻小牛皮德比鞋
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柔布外套：圣特罗佩，纯亚麻，2/2斜纹布格纹，270克*面料n°801939 裤子：纯亚麻，英格兰制造，260克*面料n°801945 POLO衫：亚利桑那，菲尼克斯款型 埃及棉与Filoscozia纱混纺精细罗织polo衫 包：款型 V 605 01, art. 666 22 极软法国小牛皮周末款 鞋子：季节系列，款型L 533 01 极轻小牛皮德比鞋
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针织衫：达科塔，芝加哥款型 纯秘鲁丝光棉开衫 裤子：纯亚麻，英格兰制造，260克*面料n°801945 鞋子：季节系列，款型L531 01 超轻休闲款鹿皮印花莫卡辛牛皮鞋
提示：FILOSCOZIA是一个注册商标，此商标代 表所用为最好的长绒、具有天然光泽、强捻以及 经过丝光和烧毛处理的纱线，它是最好的夏季织 袜用棉纱。
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Drink our know-how wisely.
全定制(BESPOK E) 服 务
半定制 (MADE TO MEASURE) 半定制西装完全取决于现有版型。再在此基础上，根据穿着者的身材比例和肩宽等情况作出细 节上的调整。但如果版型本身不尽完美，那么在此基础上调整后的效果也会幼稚简单。就像孩 子画笔下的大人。 Simon Crompton 撰
S
cabal本季从多个不同方面改进了半定制系统，其中包 括对衣袖、袖窿和肩部的改良。
最轻巧布料无缝（好吧，可以有接缝，但为平滑的接缝） 覆盖，当关节活动停止时，布料可以回到初始状态，而不 出现皱褶。
上臂衣袖被加宽，但袖窿保持原尺寸，这样活动会更自如。 袖窿本身经过略为新颖的平滑剪裁，使前臂活动空间更大。 这谈何容易。除上述增加肩部空间外，新Scabal半定制系 人们很少感受到后袖窿的约束，但人人都体会过向前伸手 统还改良了西装的结构，方法是使用一个可在西装内尽可 时感觉到的向后阻力。我们可否浪漫地设想一下，人人都 能活动的有延展性的软肩垫。肩垫、帆布和布料的常见缺 能自由自在地伸手拿到面前的东西？ 点是肩部容易出现皱褶，因此肩垫有更多自由，穿衣效果 就更好。 其他的改动包括衣袖线条和肩部所占的空间，其中衣袖经 过曲线设计，更方便手臂向前活动。通过加大略微向前和 “自由”是一个贯穿整个系统始终的主题。这可能是现代西 向后的空间，使这个复杂的关节有更多空间向各个方向活 装的终极目标，即保持永恒不变的优雅裁剪，但也要实现 动。 现代生活方式要求的自由自在。我们都希望想动就动，想 抱就抱；如果既能行动自如，又能仪表堂堂，那就最好不 如何处理肩部的活动，可能是西装制作中最复杂的环节。 过。 其他关节都不能向如此多的方向活动和均衡用力。肩关节 被锁骨、肩骨和肩胛骨所包围。在中间是由肌腱和肌肉组 成的复杂网络。所有这些部位必须用方便关节自如活动的 41
全定制服务
丈量的重要性 沟通很重要。半定制是可达到奇效的神奇系统。这个系统的关键是裁缝师或店主准确量体裁衣。 Simon Crompton 撰
细
看一下卷尺是否拉紧。卷尺略松会使腰 衣效果的完美，可能一开始会跟客户聊一些与衣服完全无 围增加1厘米，也可能使胸围增加2厘米， 关的话题。 因此卷尺丈量的松紧度必须一致。如果 卷尺高低不平，背面略低于正面，这样 Scabal不在网上出售半定制西装，这是因为没有什么能跟 也会导致丈量尺寸增加。 私下接触真正的专业人士相提并论，没有什么能替代触摸 面料和试衣的真切感受。Scabal体恤各位工作繁忙，因此 仅列举以上两例，说明为什么丈量时需小心翼翼。庆幸的 可亲往您的办公室、家、酒店等地提供半定制上门服务。 是，您在Scabal的个人助理经验非常丰富，他会极其严谨 经验丰富的工作人员会在合理的时间内高效率地为您丈量 地为您丈量合适的尺寸。他见过各式各样的西装和客户， 尺寸，有些工作人员还会应您的要求提供最得体的穿衣风 深知如何正确运用系统。例如，他知道许多客户在照大镜 格指导。 子时会姿势僵硬。如果这种姿势被原模原样地照搬到西装 制作中，那么制作出来的衣服可能不会完全合身。所以经 主要的工作现已完成。所以可以轻松一会儿了，好好享受 验丰富的量衣师为了让客户感到自在放松，也为了最后穿 在Scabal裁缝店的时光吧。 43
F O CUS先生
西装、衬衫、领带、雨衣、鞋子和包：Scabal 44
面料N°752658 和FOCUS先生
Focus先生不是因为不得已才穿西装，而是因为他真心想穿。对 这个充满自信和智慧的企业家来说，裁剪得体的西装就像第二层 皮肤。他总是忙于处理许多项目，因此穿着舒适是首选，这是他 为什么钟情Scabal伦敦人系列中轻便而可靠的面料n° 752658 的原因。这款用途广泛的斜纹布面料重250克，由高档超级140 支澳大利亚美利奴羊毛制成。这款在位于英格兰哈德斯菲尔德 的Scabal自有工厂生产的面料品质一流，Focus先生对其赞不 绝口。他穿上这身无可挑剔的行头，在商务交际时总是英姿飒 爽、自信满满。细条纹西装是经典的商务西装设计款型，但自 信的Focus先生总是希望能更彰显现代时尚气息。新颖的亮蓝色 底色绝不会让他失望。
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F OCUS先生 ： 他 的 裁 缝 店
HENRY POOLE & CO
萨维尔街的奠基人 作为国际鉴赏大师，Focus事事要求最高水准，不论是选择手表、汽车还是西装，他都希望极致 舒适、优雅和实用。他对自己的品味和格调极其自信，时间就是他最宝贵的资产。Focus先生在 伦敦时总会前往造访情有独钟的萨维尔街裁缝店Henry Poole & Co.。 Joanna Pays 撰
两
个多世纪以 的共同点是追求完全的舒适，需要展 店里，因为他们认识这里的员工，而 来，Henry Poole & 现充满自信的形象。不论是商务西装， 且店里融洽的氛围也让他们想起了私 Co一直为全世界的 还是全套周末轻便着装，我们都能提 人会员俱乐部。在舒适的休息室，他 王公贵族和各界名流 供完全定制化的产品、服务和专业意 们可以欣赏我们工厂裁缝师的精湛技 制作高级服装。该店 见。我们在量体裁衣时还会考虑客户 艺。他们可以在壁炉旁边的一张深皮 在绅士服装定制业界享有盛誉，如今 的形体和姿势，以期达到尽善尽美的 革扶手椅上休息，品上一杯25年的芝 大名鼎鼎的鲍斯博物馆还对其制作的 穿衣体验。就像经典不衰的百达翡丽 华士，讨论下一季的潮流服饰。” 精美服饰举办了大型展览会。Henry 手表，我们的客户即便将我们的服装 最上乘的面料 Poole的历史可追溯到1806年，店主 穿十年都不会过时，依然彰显自信魅 James Poole在当年创立了他的伦敦 力。” “说到面料，我们的客户常常希望淘到 服装店。该店在拿破仑战争时期以制 轻便且适合商务旅游的服装。想要有 作高品质军礼服而闻名，1846年James “在我们的客户看来，时间是最重要 的儿子Henry接手后扩大了店铺规模。 的。上班之余的闲暇时光，对他们来 款有型、适合白天和晚上穿着的奢华 正门口变成萨维尔街15号，其他裁缝 说弥足珍贵。购物或许不是他们最爱 冬装，Scabal的Eton超级130支面料绝 店随即迁址到附近，萨维尔街自此初 的消遣方式，但他们非常喜欢来我们 对是热门选择”Simon Cundey称，“ 具规模。大概在同期，Henry Poole & Co收购了Napoleon III和Edward VII 定制服装店。因此Henry Poole开始 接触欧洲上流社会，并获得他众多皇 家授权中的第一个。1890年，Henry Poole成为欧洲最大的全定制裁缝店， 总部拥有300多名员工。 全定制产品、服务和专业意见
董事总经理Simon Cundey是继创始人 James Poole之后的第七任接班人，他 的职责是让裁缝店的遗产和传统一直 延续下去。“Henry Poole在风格上从 来不拘一格，这话确实不假。我们有 朴实典雅的客户，也有有品味、爱奢 华的客户。我们的客户遍布各个领域， 从皇室、政界到商界、娱乐圈。他们 46
在更温暖的季节，可以选择具有高捻 系数的超级100支面料，比如Monza就 不错。关于面料图案，我建议商务人 士至少要拥有一款带鸟眼花纹的服装， 这也是我个人最爱的图案之一。说到 运动夹克，我钟爱Saxony Tweeds和 蓝绿混色窗式格纹面料，它们可与法 兰绒或蓝色牛仔裤完美配搭。在萨维 尔街12号，我们与Scabal为邻。我们 旗下两家公司已建立了特殊关系，很 多布匹都专供Henry Poole使用。例如 Legend系列，这个系列以特别为Henry Poole的传奇客户打造的图案为基础， 比如为Randolph Hearst定制的黑蓝精 纺白条纹面料
HENRY POOLE在鲍斯博物馆举办展览
过。上乘面料在男装中的运用，为这 些杰作锦上添花，当中有著名的Bower 鲍斯博物馆(Bowes Museum)举办的“ Roebuck工厂制造的面料，该工厂位于 萨维尔街的奠基人Henry Poole & Co： 制衣和纺织历史可追溯到中世纪的哈 定制艺术和羊毛布料”(Henry Poole 德斯菲尔德镇。 & Co Founder of Savile Row: The Art of Bespoke Tailoring and Wool “这个展览能受到鲍斯博物馆的邀请， Cloth)展览，是男装界的一大盛事。 我们深感荣幸，”Simon Cundey说，“ 这个博物馆本身就拥有大量华美的永 我们终于有机会展出有不同历史的各 久藏品，馆内设有闻名于世的时装和 色服装系列。” 纺织品展馆。Henry Poole展览是对 萨维尔街裁缝业和传统英国工厂制造 鲍斯博物馆举办的Henry Poole展览将 的布料至高无上地位的隆重庆祝。参 一直持续到2014年5月11日。 展的历史和当代服装大部分来自Henry Poole的资料库，且此前从未公开展出 47
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FO CUS先生：他 的 腕 表
LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR HANDWERKSKUNST 无法抵挡……Focus先生在刚刚过去的秋季到香港旅游时，恰好赶上A. Lange & Sohne重新 发售一款制作精良的腕表（限量发售15枚），其无与伦比的魅力让他完全无法抵挡。 JP Talbot 撰
L
ange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst把两 大经典复杂装置与A. Lange & So ¨hne最著名 的腕表LANGE 1的典型 设计相互结合。日历 显示巧妙地排列于时间显示的外围， 并附设专利月份外圈，不同信息如日 期、星期、月份、闰年和月相显示均 一目了然。另一重要设计是所有万年 历显示皆可瞬间推进。这些显示在表 盘结构中完美融合，再三细看更能发 掘这款腕表巨作的复杂技术。为确保 腕表清晰易读，附设专利停秒功能的 精密陀飞轮装置，只有透过底盖才能 窥见。
表盘以实心白色黄金打造而成，此特 别版更结合罕见的tremblage雕饰和 浮雕技术。各项手工制作的细节均一 丝不苟，而这次更是Lange首度以手 绘方式，创作大日历显示的蓝色数 字。 毫无疑问，Handwerkskunst这项特 质亦可用来形容表厂自制L082.1型 机芯的装饰。这些传统装饰与崭新机 芯设计形成鲜明对比。浮雕陀飞轮和 中间轮夹板构建出整个附设专利停秒 功能的陀飞轮装置。相同的手工雕刻 技术亦用作装饰大型21K金中置自动 转盘和铂金离心轮。三个轮系桥板 则都以太阳纹作点缀。陀飞轮框架 上方的镜面抛光亦是Lange品质的典
型标志。四个螺丝固定黄金套筒和 一个陀飞轮钻石端石轴承，更可谓朗 格“Handwerkskunst”的压轴设计， 精美绝伦。 直径41.9毫米的铂金表壳与各种贵金 属设计相互融合，引人注目。表壳底 盖上的A. Lange & So ¨hne 标志及版 本序号均以手工雕刻。 这款珍稀藏品已于2013年底限量发售 15枚，并且只在全球十一间A. Lange & So ¨hne 专卖店独家发售。 www.alange-soehne.com
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F OCUS先生 ： 他 的 座 驾
魔鬼藏在细节里 路虎•全新一代揽胜运动版
3月底，Focus先生就身在纽约，他当然不会缺席在第八大道举行的会议。在让人不禁想起好莱坞大片的场景 中，演员Daniel Craig驾着路虎 全新一代揽胜运动版穿越纽约街道，揭开了它的神秘面纱。迄今为止速度最 快、反应最灵敏、响应最迅速的路虎车型，接受了英国演员的检验，这位演员受邀参加这款车型的全球首发会。
JP Talbot 撰
F
ocus先生必须彻底忘记对旧版路虎 揽胜运动 版的了解。虽然2013年推出的车型与之前车型 有些类似，但它不仅仅是“发现”车型的“运 动”版，相反它的外观造型承袭了大哥的线条， 这款全新的路虎车型几个月前才刚从索利哈尔 (Solihull)生产线下线。不论是伦敦的狭窄巷道，还是东 萨塞克斯蜿蜒的道路，“运动版”都如鱼得水，而且它的 安定性能比该品牌其他任何车型都更胜一筹，在人迹罕至 的路段也有超卓表现。多功能性是Focus先生选择这款独 特车型的原因之一。他仍然记得两年前的一个春夜，他不 得不半途返回奇尔特恩丘陵(Chiltern Hills)。要是他驾 驶的是真正具有越野性能的汽车，他就可以绕过大雨造成 的滑坡，那他在周末狩猎的计划也就不会泡汤了。
驾驭新境界
全新路虎 揽胜运动版不仅动力十足、霸气外露，而且还 特别融入了前所未有的细节和多重选择。揽胜运动版的 内部完美体现了路虎的发展历程，路虎在1970年首次提 出“luxury 4x4”概念，该车型既拥有路虎特有的舒适 性，又具备超凡的越野性能。点烟器在当时还是第一代路 虎的一个选择，此后，得益于索利哈尔的能工巧匠和设计 师的贡献，该车型便格外注重细节和英伦优雅风范。2014 版更侧重于运动性能，主要体现在前排座椅，而捷豹也采 用了这种设计。不过，其他优雅元素的运用并未削减该车 型的运动特性。路虎 全新一代揽胜运动版的设计师们矢 志追求完美，注重每一个细节，甚至连缝制方向盘上高品
二氧化碳补偿 除了柴油混合动力版，Focus先生还十分关注该品牌的碳排放补偿计划。该公司携手碳补偿专业机构 Climate Care，大力投资避免或减少二氧化碳排放的项目。这些项目补偿在制造和装配车辆过程中以 及新车首个45,000英里（72,000公里）所排放的二氧化碳。 路虎专注于可持续发展的三个主要工作：由矿物燃料向可再生能源转变、发展可再生技术及改善社区 和工业的能源效率。项目包括：塔吉克斯坦的两个大型水力发电站、土耳其和中国技术先进的风力发 电场、俄罗斯供热和发电厂、乌干达的高效炉灶配送以及中国的燃料发电项目。这些项目有助于减少 污染以及为当地社区创造就业机会。
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质皮革所用缝针的大小和形状也不放过。Focus先生曾一度 认为他会选择增压车型及其红色Brembo制动钳，但是…… 柴油混合动力
全新发动机的运用很快让他改变了心意。路虎已推出过首 款耀世柴油SUV混合动力车，特有三种驾驶者可选模式， 配有路虎3升SDV6柴油发动机和功率为35千瓦的发电机，并 且搭载8速ZF自动变速器。发电机可产生170牛米的扭矩， 帮助车辆加速，还能为纯电动模式(EV Mode)下的车辆提 供驱动力。在驾驶者可选纯电动模式下，路虎混动车型的 速度最高可达30英里/时，而且在柴油发动机无缝重启前 可最多行驶一英里。
此外，在转速为4,000转/分时，柴油发动机和发电机的输 出达到340马力，在1,500-3,000转/分时，扭矩高达700牛 米。该车型可在七秒内实现62英里/时（100公里/时）加 速，带来强劲的瞬变和中等运转性能，最高时速达140英里 （225公里），而其二氧化碳排放量却减少了26%，降低至 169克/公里，综合油耗相当于44.1英里/加仑。 科技无处不在
路虎 全新一代揽胜运动版提供全面的连通性配置，使车 辆、商务活动和家庭生活保持无缝连接。“互联车辆”技 术可以让驾驶者通过安装在智能手机上的应用，检查车辆 状态，而且还提供被盗车辆追踪、紧急呼救和路虎辅助呼 叫等支持功能。全新一代揽胜运动版的另一项独特创新是 涉水感应(Wade Sensing)功能，在水中行驶时，能为驾驶 者提供水深信息。对驾驶者更为有利的是，现在全新一代 揽胜运动版的最大涉水深度在原有车型基础上增加了150 毫米，达到850毫米。最重要的是，不论会议地点设在市 区还是北方山区，Focus先生都可以准时出席。
www.landrover.co.uk 51
CO O L 先生
夹克、修身牛仔裤、衬衫、鞋和手绢：Scabal 52
布料N° 801988 与COOL先生
你从未见过Cool先生面露忧虑。人生是一场大冒险，Cool先 生享受其中的一分一秒。他热爱传统价值观，但他更希望提 炼传统价值观，并将其融入现代生活方式。因此他钦佩布料n° 801988的技术进步也就不足为奇。在我们专业的英格兰约克郡 纺织厂里，工匠采用弗雷斯科风格的稀松织法编织这款布料，使 其表面酷劲十足。经过干燥处理后，这款Fresh系列的230克布 料变得既柔软又光滑，真的让Cool先生的半衬里休闲夹克衫显 得更酷了。这款布料特别的表面几乎没有残留任何表层纤维，令 布料看起来异常光滑，且减轻了布料的重量，让穿着者觉得衣服 更轻盈和更舒适。此外，这款布料表面具有先进的吸汗除湿功 能，可从身体表面吸收汗水，并通过布料排散到空气中。而布 料快干的特性，即使在炎炎夏日，也能令穿着者倍感舒爽。由 于Cool先生很少在一个地方停留太久，因此这款纯澳大利亚美 利奴羊毛布料的高抗皱性能，令他感到非常满意。
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COOL 先生： 他 最 喜 欢 喝 的 酒
那就是 GIN O’CLOCK 谈到鸡尾酒，金汤力（Gin and Tonic）仍是最时尚优雅的鸡尾酒之一。因此，酒市上充斥着各 种各样的全新金汤力——其中一些的品质远胜其他。多年来，Cool先生已成为品鉴金汤力的行 家。在这段时间里，他掌握了深厚的相关知识，并清楚地了解了他所希望品尝的金酒。了解他的 偏好…… Jeroen Coteur 撰
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金
酒以蒸馏发酵谷物酿造而成。除杜松子 外，其他草药和香料共同赋予此酒特别的 口味。经典的金酒口味极干，因此极少纯 饮。由于酿造方法不同，不同种类的金酒 亦有所区别。
兰苹果。这些材料让Caorunn散发出浓郁的花果和柑橘酒 香。London N1金酒酒体呈非常独特的蓝宝石色，这是使 用栀子花所产生的效果。该酒的口味基于四大要素：来自 北伦敦的泉水、来自萨福克和诺福克的极优谷物、精细的 蒸馏过程和取自世界各地的十二种草药和香料。亨利爵士 金酒(Hendrick’s Gin)也是Cool先生最喜欢的金酒之一。 这款老牌金酒拥有极好的杜松子味道，还添加了柑橘和黄 瓜等独特秘方，而瓶装更是具有老式药剂瓶的鲜明外观。
伦敦干金酒
最出名的金酒毫无疑问当属伦敦干金酒。伦敦干金酒并非 指产地，而是指单式蒸馏法，即所有成分同时蒸馏。蒸馏 后仅允许加水。Cool先生最宠爱的伦敦干金酒是经典的布 睿克金酒(Broker’s Gin)。这款金酒拥有干纯的杜松子口 味，入口即化为柠檬和橙子的微妙柑橘滋味。收口还有额 外的黑胡椒香味，真是令人回味无穷。五十磅金酒(Fifty Pounds Gin)亦是传统伦敦干金酒的上佳之选。这款金酒的 材料精心挑选自世界各地的供应商，包括亚洲、南欧及中 东。五十磅金酒的质地稍显油润，散发出柑橘、薄荷、薰 衣草及杜松子等浓郁酒香，并最终化为Cool先生特别喜爱 的极新鲜香味。
完美搭档
尽管不同金酒的风味各有千秋，但Cool先生喜欢把金酒和 汤力水调成金汤力鸡尾酒饮用。他先将玻璃杯装满冰，再 加入45至60毫升金酒，最后倒入汤力水直至杯满——最好 用单瓶倒汤力水，但绝对不要用苏打枪。金酒与汤力水混 合后会产生浓郁的香气，这股辛辣的香气缠绕着他，久久 无法散去。 最好的汤力水
蒸馏金酒
汤力水的选择是鸡尾酒成功的关键。但幸运的是，Cool先 生拥有所有必要的先备知识。Thomas Henry汤力水柔滑丰 蒸馏金酒是金酒的另一个大类，其在蒸馏过程后加入其 润，其口感与金酒浓郁的香气和味道相辅相成，是衬托金 他汁液或在蒸馏时添加额外的材料。Cool先生最近喜欢 酒的完美之选。每100毫升仅含不到10克糖的蓝桉树汤力 上了斯隆干金酒(Sloane’s Dry Gin)。这款荷兰金酒的 水(Fever-Tree Tonic Water)，是金酒的健康搭档。Indi 九种特殊植物成分被分开蒸馏，再以完美的比例和平衡进 & Co是产自塞维利亚地区的西班牙汤力水。相比其他汤力 行混合，因此产生柔润新鲜的口感。Caorunn是一款苏格 水，Fentimans汤力水的甜度稍低，因此可完美承托更辛辣 兰金酒，除传统的六种植物材料外，它还添加了苏格兰的 的金酒。Q汤力水是产自秘鲁的优质汤力水，含有奎宁并用 独特风味，包括野生花揪莓果、铃石楠、蒲公英和苏格 龙舌兰作为天然甜料，可产生非常特别的余味。
潘海利根JUNIPER SLING淡香水 Cool先生不仅喝金酒，偶尔还在身上擦一些……Olivier Cresp 从伦敦干金酒中汲取灵感，打造出这款完美的香水。这款香水就 像一瓶金汤力鸡尾酒，初调为新鲜的杜松、清凉的当归和白兰地， 中调为黑胡椒、小豆蔻、软皮草和鸢尾花，令人怦然心动，为之 一振。基调是红糖、黑樱桃和琥珀的融合，性感而独特。一种广 受欢迎的标志性烈酒，以这种方式变成了一款复杂而感性的香水。
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White Shadow
Art Luxury & Investment presents
Georges Cuyvers WWW.WHITESHADOW.BE - ARTISTS
FO CUS先生：他 最 好 的 旅 行 回 忆
东方印象 和多变的性情一样，旅行的方式也不一而足。当出发去探索庞 大的亚洲大陆的一小部分时，FOCUS先生选择亚洲东方快车 (Eastern & Oriental Express)作为出行方式，以缅怀世纪 初诞生的伟大列车。 JP Talbot 撰
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一天，这是东方快车计 划从新加坡到缅甸蒲甘 的旅程时间。在这段宁 静安详的行程中，旅客 可伴随铁道与河流的韵 律节奏，尽情欣赏东南亚的自然风光。
雕花。所有空调包厢均配有套间浴室和 厕所，以及大型落地窗。而最极致奢华 的总统包厢，白天更是被布置为豪华休 息室。晚上，总统包厢被改装为温馨的 卧室，设有两张豪华单人大床。随着列 车缓缓启动，我们也告别了新加坡的都 市景观，进入乡村田野。坐在视野良好 的游览车厢中，绿油油的稻田和橡胶园 相继映入眼帘，给人的感觉如入画境。
最后四天的行程始于蒲甘，主要是在 河上乘船参观。蒲甘这座古老的城市 曾是印第安纳琼斯系列电影的拍摄地， 被誉为万塔之城，忽必烈可汗千年之 前曾洗劫过这座古城。在前往曼德勒 的途中，Focus先生在游艇的高级客 舱中欣赏着令人痴迷的缅甸美景。他 在熙熙攘攘的新加坡，旅程始于安静 表示，当他的游船经过河岸边的小村 而又奢华的莱佛士酒店，这幢当地标 庄和农场时，此情此景让他感慨不已。 志性建筑因其白色柱廊及殖民地风格 对于Focus先生来说，体验这种宁静 而远近闻名。对于Focus先生来说，前 在曼谷的文华东方酒店度过温馨一夜 而具有异域情调的生活方式，将成为 两天是到乌节路上琳琅满目的商店购 后，将转乘飞机前往缅甸仰光，总督 他最美好的回忆。与他纷繁嘈杂的日 物的绝佳良机，但去车站汇合前在码 官邸饭店在此期待旅客大驾光临。这 常生活相比，这种生活简直是天壤之 头吹吹海风也是不错的选择。一旦到 个世界用鲁德亚德 吉卜林的话来形容 别…… 达车站，这趟亚洲冒险才算真正开始。 毫不为过：“缅甸不同于你所熟知的 任何一个地方”。 www.orient-express.com 亚洲东方快车让您完全摆脱日常生活 烦恼。其姊妹列车是欧洲传奇的威尼 Focus先生十分喜爱城镇的殖民地 斯辛普伦-东方快车，其提供各种奢华 氛围，但他也喜欢游览仰光大金塔 的木镶板包厢——卧铺、国宾、总统 (Shwedagon Pagoda)和坐落于皇家湖 套间——所有包厢均饰有精细的木刻 岸的卡拉威宫(Karaweik)。
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COOL 先生： 他 最 喜 欢 的 旅 行 目 的 地
上海：
不只是商务旅行 Cool先生经常在世界各地出差。但他丝毫不介意，因为每次商务旅行都能给他充足的时间来探 索一座城市。因此他最喜欢的目的地之一，毫无疑问当属上海。在这座大都市里，他已寻找到现 代与传统的独特结合：从浦东商业区忙碌的活动到老城区正宗的文化氛围。 Jeroen Coteur 撰
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C
ool先生来上海——中国的经济和金融中心出差 时，通常会在上海的商业区浦东停留很长时间。 因此，他一般会在金茂大厦订一个酒店房间。金 茂大厦高达421米，是上海最高的建筑之一。开 了一整天会之后，疲惫的Cool先生通常希望喝 杯酒放松下。因此他会前往大厦88楼的九重天(Cloud 9) 酒吧，手举他喜爱的金汤力鸡尾酒（见第54页），享受俯 瞰上海的惊人美景。
湖心亭茶楼
外滩
回到现实
但Cool先生也很喜欢在老城区散步。他从浦东跨越黄浦 江，来到他最喜欢的上海景点：外滩。在外滩，他开始沿 着长1.5公里的人行漫步道散步，从外白渡桥一直走到延 安路。沿着这条人行漫步道，他经过了许多给人留下深刻 印象的建筑，其中大多数都起源于殖民地时代：前英国总 领事馆、南京路购物街两旁的和平饭店、拥有引人瞩目、 高大钟楼的海关大厦、拥有巨大圆顶和宏伟大厅的汇丰银 行办事处……在人行漫步道南端，他止步于荷兰皇家壳牌 公司的前办事处门前。
回到宾馆后，Cool先生依旧眺望灯火通明的美丽外滩一小 会儿，从中辨认方才途经的大小建筑，然后拉上窗帘，为 智能手机记录的来日日程做好准备：晨间七时半，上海环 球金融中心早餐会……
Cool先生未打算直接回宾馆，于是只身探索这片历史名 地，来到始建于明朝的著名园林——豫园。豫园内的湖心 亭茶楼无疑最让Cool先生心动。夜幕降临后，这座传统 中国建筑风格的两层茶楼灯火熠熠，美不胜收。坐在茶楼 里，Cool先生欣赏着近旁的喧嚣市景，品尝种类繁多的茶 水。每次来都给人不落空的新鲜感。
发展永无止境
夜晚沿着外滩散步，四下一片灯光璀璨，带给人独一无二 的感受。为了保护外滩历史印记的完好无损，上海颇费了 一番功夫，比如限制外滩周围建筑物的高度。从外滩还能 眺望浦东宏伟的摩天大楼，其中一座便是Cool先生整日辛 勤工作的地方。回想20年前，黄浦江对面的这块土地还只 是当地农夫的耕田。自那时起，浦东就喊出“发展永无止 境”的口号，高楼大厦争相拔地而起，直冲云霄。先是地 标性的东方明珠塔（1994年落成，高468米），后有更高 的金茂大厦（前有介绍）、上海环球金融中心（2008年落 成，高492米），还有预计今年建成的632米高的上海中心 大厦。
交通方式 上海有两大机场：一是虹桥机场，过去曾是国际机场， 现在主飞国内航班。另一个1999年开放的上海浦东机 场，已取代虹桥机场主飞国际航班的功能。其第四、 第五条跑道和两个新航站楼等扩建工程正在如火如荼 地进行之中。90多条航线将上海浦东和全世界近200 个不同的目的地连接起来。
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诱惑
给人意外惊喜的礼物和配饰 送礼不挑场合。出乎对方意料之外的小小礼物，往往会有特别的价值。巧妙的送礼者会赠送对 方一般不会购买，但却实用的趣味物件。好礼无价…… JP Talbot 撰
LE CHAMEAU Le Chameau皮靴时尚新 潮，实用性强，保证100% 防水。鞋面以两种棕色作 醒目搭配，由全粒面革和 正绒面革拼接而成。皮靴 内衬Gore-Tex隔膜，可完 全防水。Jameson证明， 在确保实用的同时，更可 兼得舒适或潮范。 www.lechameau.com
采用中国涂漆的 CARAND’ACHE
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ˊ ROMANEE-CONTI
Carand’Ache是少数几家使用中国涂 漆的西方制笔商。细腻珍贵的材料搭 配象牙白涂漆，充分烘托出Varius型 号雅致的外观。Varius China Ivory 自来水笔书写工具为瑞士制造，在全 世界终生保修。
红酒资深爱好者和上等红酒爱好者能一眼看出：Romanée-Conti是勃 艮第数一数二的好酒。Romanée-Conti的葡萄园可追溯到中世纪。现 在的生产仍然严格奉行有机种植原则。玩耍游乐之余，品上一杯红宝 石色佳酿，最是惬意。存窖期可达20至40年。
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Sartorial巧妙地融合了英国香料传统和服装定制裁剪， 其香型最早源自萨维尔街的一间裁缝工作室。现代缝纫线 弥散这种芳香之气要归功于蜂蜡，每根线在缝纫前都要滑 过蜂蜡块。在甜腻香氛的营造下，不禁让人联想到一幅怀 旧画面：烟熏色细木柜上，一双巧手揉擦着布料，裁剪下 散发油亮光泽的面料。 www.penhaligons.com
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面料介绍
亚麻态度 拥有独一无二特性的亚麻面料是纺织历史中的传奇。它十分亲肤，制作过程对环境的影响很小。 已经创造辉煌历史的亚麻纤维，将继续挑战设计师的创造才能。 JP Talbot 撰
亚
麻制衣的起源仍然是 个谜。据考古学家估 计，亚麻的使用最早可 追溯到36,000年前。早 在罗马帝国时代，亚麻 面料就在经济中占有举足轻重的分量。 过去亚麻主要种植在今天法国和比利 时所在的区域。凯尔特人以亚麻的名字 Bel’ch命名该地区，罗马人更其名为 Belgae，后来成为Belgium（比利时）。
现在亚麻仍多产于欧洲，其优良的质 地决定它不仅可用于纺织业，还可用 于建筑材料、体育设备、汽车制造等 等。亚麻不仅有绝佳的隔热性，而且 轻盈坚韧，难怪用途如此广泛。
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亚麻在纺织行业中也自成一派。众所 周知，亚麻面料可令穿着者维持适度 的体温，因此在炎热国家广受欢迎。 它的纤维过敏性低，不刺激皮肤，舒 适感极佳。更有研究发现，选用亚麻 寝具还能改善睡眠。
需求量，令其在其他纤维中脱颖而出。 在欧洲，亚麻加工和制作耗费的能源， 要比使用煤电的国家制作纺织品的耗费 低得多，温室气体排放也大大低于若干 其他行业。在用于制衣的天然纤维中， 亚麻最易染色，当然，亚麻最普遍的 颜色还是天然的淡褐色。
传统与生态 亚麻系列
亚麻的特性之所以广为人知，不仅仅 是因为有千年的研究历史，还因为亚 麻的种植成功避免了工业化生产。天 然种植意味着亚麻比其他纤维的环境 友好程度高50倍。从种植阶段开始， 亚麻的整个生命周期都表现出优良的 生态影响。极低的能源、水和杀虫剂
尽管在文明观念产生以前就已出现， 亚麻仍然是加工难度很高的面料。在 设计师眼里，亚麻是优雅的典范，也 是艰深的难题。亚麻易皱，亚麻制衣 尤需在特色和手感的品级上下足功夫， 因此成为大时尚设计师宠爱的元素。
好莱坞经典影片的观众一定还记得， 那漫步于开罗或卡萨布兰卡街道上一 身白色亚麻西装的男主角……
在第12期的《Bespoken》中，我们曾介绍亚麻和亚麻面料的材料特 性。现在我们要从穿着者的角度诠释这种珍贵的天然纤维，即我们 所谓之“亚麻态度”。
Scabal亚麻系列随您挑选。我们 提供100%纯亚麻系列、复古亚麻 系列、Riviera和Lagoon系列（ 棉、丝、羊毛和弹性纤维混纺）以 及2014年春夏新推的St. Tropez和 Young Generation系列。如欲查找 有关系列，可通过您的Facebook、谷 歌、Twitter账户或电子邮件地址，注 册登入www.scabal.com/vip。
亚麻着装不仅仅代表选择了一种亚麻夹克、衬衫或长裤。选择亚麻 材料，就等于选择一种着装态度和文化观念。亚麻易皱，在所有天 然纤维中弹性最差，这大家都知道。那为什么选择它呢？ “我们的信念是：再没有比刚刚熨好的亚麻服装更有清新又浓郁的夏 日味道了。我们喜欢刚穿上时的光滑熨帖，也同样喜欢穿过后的褶 皱，因为褶痕记录了我们的动作，也让面料越来越柔软。”Scabal 创意总监Detlev Diehm说道：“它让我们珍视穿着它的时刻，并 渴望穿上刚刚熨好的亚麻衬衫、外套或夹克，继续享受清新一夏。 谁还在乎它过一会儿就皱呢。所有美好的时光大概都是如此吧！”
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WHITE SEATING SYSTEM RODOLFO DORDONI DESIGN
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下一 期 ： 201 4 年 7 月 在下期的《Bespoken》中，您将赏阅世家宝2014-2015年新推秋冬系列。在www.scabal.com/vip注册获得本刊的发布提醒， 或在www.bespoken.com/ipad查看您的iPad应用。 65
The
Art of progress. The new Audi A8 instantly intrigues with its impressive sculptural line and its exceptional charisma. Once inside, however, the art of perfection is sure to take your breath away, as high-tech innovation has been reconciled seamlessly with the warmth of a sober yet luxurious interior.
Model shown with options. Environmental information (RD 19/03/2004) : www.audi.be
5,9 - 9,2 L/100 KM â—† 155 - 216 G CO2/KM.
David’s favourite expression is The Balvenie PortWood.
He has a skill no machine has. He can smell the future. Evolved over half a century, this sense detects The Balvenie’s character years before it emerges. Without his nose, its distinctive traits would be lost in time, wood and spirit. He helped pioneer the art of finishing, influencing the whisky by maturing it in more than one cask. He’s been nosing The Balvenie so long, he lives and breathes it. It’s what he knows.
Ons vakmanschap drink je met verstand. Notre savoir-faire se déguste avec sagesse.
www.omegawatches.com
IN THEIR OWN LITTLE WORLDS The tiny precision components in our mechanical movements dance to the rhythm of our lives – and they have been with us on some of mankind’s greatest adventures.