THE
SEASON’S
BOOK
AUTUMN-WINTER 2014
‘My Father André Van Noord is a Model, Photographer, Artist and a Good Man.’ Parker Van Noord
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THE
SEASON’S
BOOK
AUTUMN-WINTER 2014
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Father & son: Cortina 6
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Father: Weekend collection Son: Finest Jacketings 8
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Father & son: Overcoatings Father’s suit: Cortina 10
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Father & son: Outdoor collection 12
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Father: Casheen Son: Royal Silk 14
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Father & son: Eton 16
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Father: Fidelio Son: Eton 18
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Father’s coat: Ultra Silk Siberia. Suit: Orchid Son: Luxxor 20
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Father’s trousers: Monterey Bay Son: Festival 22
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Father & son: Festival 24
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Father: Fidelio Son: Finest Jacketings 26
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LOOKBOOK
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Kentucky, the luxurious chunky knit cardigan can be worn in place of a jacket, paired with a smart pair of chino-style trousers in a Super 120’s flannel. A wardrobe staple with a luxury edge.
Weekend Collection, as an easy as well sartorially refined wardrobe piece, this jacket complements any type of casual or semi-formal outfit. 30
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Royal Silk, the 100% silk quality for autumn-winter weighing just 210g. The cloth’s brushed finish resembles brushed cashmere and makes it warm despite its light weight. The touch of this cloth needs to be experienced!
Casheen, the brushed finish produces a 100% cashmere cloth with an incredible touch and a particular appearance of the subtle check. 32
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Finest Jacketings, a collection of timeless classics for jacketings including herringbones, hopsacks as well as plains for an elegant look.
Casheen, the brushed finish produces a 100% cashmere cloth with an incredible touch and a particular appearance of the subtle check. 34
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Alpaca, a superb cloth that weighs 600g but when worn feels luxuriously light. With a combination of 72% alpaca and 28% fine merino wool, the cloth has unusually long surface hair, which makes it warm without feeling heavy and a silky pleasure to the touch.
Overcoatings, this double breasted and sartorial coat made in 100% camel hair is very warm and almost as soft as cashmere. A very durable fabric. 36
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Cortina, offers 25 designs in a milled semi-flannel finish. Qualities include Super 100’s, 120’s, 130’s and some 150’s, with weights ranging from 290g up to 360g. 38
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Super 180’S & Cashmere, is a small range that combines a Super 180’s merino wool with 1% cashmere. The result is a truly luxurious soft quality that weighs 340g.
Eton, a Super 130’s quality weighing 280g will continue to be a best-seller all year round for suiting. 40
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Orchid, is a Super 150’s merino wool quality of 240g. The natural fragrance that discreetly permeates the suiting is of unique appeal.
Luxxor, is a very refined suiting collection that combines a Super 150’s merino wool with 10% cashmere. 42
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Fidelio, offers a double plain weave, which is a traditional technique that uses a double warp. The result is a nicely supple, crease resistant cloth at 340g. Here it comes in a typically British diamond pattern and a subtle luxurious sheen. 44
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Overcoatings, a perennial quality in pure cashmere, dense and supple, that keeps the cold away in a most pleasant manner.
Festival, is an impressive bunch of 63 designs that provides a vast range of options for special occasion jackets. 46
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THE WORLD OF SCABAL
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THE CRAFT
The ready-to-wear collection takes a completely new approach to tailoring. Scabal’s new Creative Director Detlev Diehm has taken a very careful look at how the shoulder functions and has come up with a new shoulder line, which he describes as “an eminently elegant look in its relaxed way, using an unobstructive sartorial architecture”. The collection continues to veer towards elegance and refinement. The range is defined by its luxurious subtle character. The major items are underpinned by coordinating accessories of corresponding quality and good taste. The single-breasted suit with two side vents remains the most popular style, although there is a noticeable increase in the popularity of double-breasted suits, which have always been the exclusive domain of the made-to-measure connoisseur. Some jackets in response to an overwhelming desire for comfort are unlined and horn-effect buttons complete the picture of elegance. Also making a return are front pleats in trousers. While most Scabal trousers still have
flat fronts, the fuller cut of some trousers for the more fashion-conscious wearers – full around the seat, but with narrow tapering legs – benefits from two neat pleats at each side. Shirts are kept clean and uncomplicated with textures and stripes against predominantly white backgrounds. The favoured collar types are spread, a higher button-down and a Kent. Scabal’s technical expertise in yarns is evident in the knitwear it proposes. These are wardrobe basics with a luxury edge. Coats change their role from that of an often overlooked item to the centrepiece in the modern man’s wardrobe. Scabal has produced some irresistible styles that will tempt even the most elegant of dressers. True to Detlev Diehm’s notion that tailoring should be “well-shaped and elegant”, Scabal’s new jackets have no fashion gimmicks, but focus instead on high quality fabrics made in England, flattering designs and excellent manufacture in Germany. 51
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THE CLOTH
The new ‘bunches’ of Scabal suiting cloths, that form the cornerstone of the collection, are available in a very wide range of different designs, weights and colours. We only use the very finest yarns to create luxurious cloths that drape elegantly to create a beautiful silhouette that exudes an air of luxury. The majority of our cloths are woven at the Scabal Mill in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, England. In addition to impeccable classic designs, the new collection includes subtle intricate designs, false plain fabrics with a discreet pattern and double weave cloths that were popular over 20 years ago. We have created ultra-refined suiting that is aimed squarely at the high-end market and that takes its inspiration from luxurious designs from the eighties for a luxury vintage look. The designs are more than they seem at first glance. If you look at the fabrics from a distance they seem almost plain, but if you look more closely you soon discover the complexity of the soft, subtle and exquisite designs. Jacketing cloths play a more important role in this collection. In addition to their excellent suitability for informal wear, finely tailored jackets are increasingly acceptable for business wear. Scabal’s extensive range of options
includes a wide variety of attractive designs. Classic designs include: Herringbones, Glenchecks, Houndstooth and Hopsacks. Thanks to our in-house technical expertise, we have been able to add a 100% silk quality to this collection. The cloth’s brushed finish resembles brushed cashmere and makes it warm despite its light weight feel. We have also created a brushed finish on 100% cashmere that looks as good as it feels. Would you like a Royal Orb, a Stag’s head, a Tudor star, a coat of arms, crossed golf clubs or the Scabal lion woven in your cloth? Although these cloths have been conceived for jacketing, they would also make very striking suits for confident dressers. Scabal has also projected itself into the party season and produced an extensive range of cloths that are ideal for jackets for special occasions. Fancy stripes, pure silk, elaborate velvets, jacquards and embossed designs are available for that unique jacket. A typical example of the restrained extravagance in this technically advanced bunch is a cloth that has a navy and black “camouflage” design that is magnificent made up into a tuxedo. 53
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THE STORY
the birth of scabal Scabal was founded in Brussels, Belgium, in 1938 by the German entrepreneur Otto Hertz. It started off life as a small company acting as a local supplier of cloth for men’s garments. At the time, the company employed just five people. Scabal rapidly acquired a reputation for innovation – in particular for its concept of ‘bunches’ which was a new way for tailors to present fabrics. By 1950, Scabal was already recognized as a leading cloth supplier to the world’s master tailors. Shortly thereafter, Scabal set up on the legendary Savile Row in London, where three centuries earlier, the concept of ‘bespoke English tailoring’ first saw the light of day. Scabal’s expertise actually goes all the way back to 1807 and the creation of the company called Wainshiell that Scabal subsequently acquired. the next stage By 1970, Scabal employed several hundred people throughout Europe, and the brand’s reputation was growing exponentially. J.-Peter
Thissen, Otto Hertz’s most valued associate, was appointed to manage the brand. Dali projected a vision of men’s fashion in the 21st century for Scabal and produced 12 exclusive paintings. Scabal provided the fabrics for several films made in USA. This marked the start of a long lasting relationship with the Hollywood film industry and Broadway and Scabal became a privileged supplier of fabrics. Among the portfolio of films for which Scabal supplied fabrics are The Godfather, Casino, Men in Black, The Aviator to name but a few. Scabal embarked on cooperative ventures in London with the West End theatres. In 1973 Scabal purchased a leading woollen mill in Huddersfield, Yorkshire, a part of England that had been historically renowned for producing the most refined fabrics. Technical innovations flourished at Scabal’s mill and new qualities were constantly being created. These include the first Super 120’s and 150’s fabric, Lapis Lazuli and Diamond Chip (with fragments of precious stones integrated into the weave) and the ultimate Super 250’s. Scabal is generally recognised as one of the 55
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founding fathers of the ‘Superfine’ fabrics classification (Super 100’s, Super 120’s, etc.). from sheep to shop In 1974, the company began to produce and sell its own suits and in 1989 it acquired its own garment factory that had been founded in the thirties on the Franco-German border. It continued work on its project for made-tomeasure garments. The Scabal style was born– a traditional and timeless look, accentuated by the perfection of its cut and a choice of more than 5,000 different fabrics. scabal today In 2006, Gregor Thissen, the son of J.-Peter Thissen was named CEO of Scabal. Father and son now work together full time in an ambiance that revolves around family values and international expansion. At the beginning of 2000, Scabal created an online fabrics catalogue which sent a message to the world demonstrating the future-oriented culture of the company. In 2007, Scabal launched Bespoken, its own international magazine, to promote its vision of the ‘tailor-made’ gentleman lifestyle. Stefano Rivera joined Scabal in June 2014 and succeeded Gregor Thissen as CEO in
September. He is now responsible for the dayto-day management of the group. Today, Scabal has its own stores as well as ‘shop in shops’ in London, Paris, Brussels, Berlin and Beijing. You will also find Scabal at superior tailors and authorised stockists in over 65 countries.
we never cut costs when it comes to quality Scabal controls its entire production process – from the selection of raw materials, innovation, development, design, weaving and quality control to marketing. The Scabal credo is ‘We never cut costs when it comes to quality.’ We like to push our limits and never compromise on materials. Only the noblest fabrics and yarns such as superfine wools, ranging from Super 100’s to Scabal’s own Super 250’s, vicuna, cashmere, silk, cotton, linen and mohair provide the results and comfort worthy of the Scabal name. Our passion is to transform these fabrics into custom-made garments. We do all within our powers to ensure the perfect fit and indisputable, timeless elegance. We have a strong conviction about ensuring our customers to have complete confidence when it comes to the origins of the products
purchased from us. When you choose Scabal, you are choosing the invaluable benefits that come from a fully integrated company with its own production facilities and full control of all the processes. Our customers are able to enjoy all the advantages of our ‘people and service first’ guarantee. tradition & know-how passion for cloth
The widely reputed Scabal fabrics are the fruit of a combination of cutting-edge techniques and craftsmanship. The company produces more than 5,000 different fabrics that are available all year round. Scabal has also created a range of luxury fabrics that include the finest wool, Vicuna and innovative creations such as fabrics with embedded gemstones. These exclusive fabrics are produced entirely at the Scabal Mill in Huddersfield, England. You can discover all the fabrics online in our extensive digital fabrics catalogue. hand-crafted for you
The notion of ‘made-to-measure’ has been the cornerstone of Scabal’s activities for more than 30 years. Scabal created its own system that is based on clients’ preferences. It offers more than 200 personalisation options. Quality suits, jackets, trousers, waistcoats and coats
are available in many different styles with a delivery time of three weeks. We have a full range of ceremonial wear for your wedding or formal occasions. Your own creation, made by Scabal. n°12
‘N°12’ is the ultimate range of Scabal’s madeto-measure suits. The collection is hand crafted according to the strict bespoke tailoring traditions of Savile Row. The name ‘Scabal N°12’ refers to the house number of Scabal’s flagship store on Savile Row. Suits are entirely cut by hand. Shaped shoulders and tailored waists create a stylish look. All the elements, even the invisible ones, are prepared and sewn together by hand. Scabal attaches the greatest importance to details and finish, two hallmarks of the noble tradition of bespoke tailoring. accessories
Scabal’s first range of accessories was launched more than 15 years ago. Today, they are hand made and are characterized by the excellence of the finish and the high quality of the raw materials used: ostrich leather, calfskin, Egyptian cotton, silk, cashmere, etc. The collection includes shirts (ready-to-wear and made-to-measure), ties, gloves, scarves, knitwear and belts. 57
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REFERENCES
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jacket, Cortina, Super 100’s, ref. 703658. Trousers, Flannel and Saxony, pure wool, ref. 702817. Shirt, ref. E3, art. 4071. Scarf, Enfield, art. 8115/2. Handkerchief, York, art. 7257/6. SON: suit, Cortina, Super 100’s, ref. 703654. Knitwear, Tampa, quality Texas. Handkerchief, Bradford.
FATHER:
FATHER:
suit, Eton, Super 130’s, ref. 752747. Shirt, FL, quality 224031, colour 651. Knitwear, Ohio, model Miami, colour 14. Tie, Liverpool ref. 60201/3. Belt, Canberra 2-A. Handkerchief, Como 632/1. SON: suit, Eton, Super 130’s, ref. 752782. Shirt, FA, quality E34088, colour 607. Tie, Oxford 2090/7. Handkerchief, York 7257/7. Belt, Brisbane2, colour 2.
Dover, art. 6071/5. Belt, Geelong, art. 2. Handkerchief, printed wool, York. SON: jacket, Finest Jacketings, Super 130’s, ref. 802055. Trousers, Ascona, pure cotton, ref. 500995. Knitwear, model J40100, quality 55511/2. Belt, Silverto, art. 5. Gloves, model G12100, art. 40061/4. Handkerchief, York, quality 7257/3. -
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jacket, Weekend collection, model 54146, art. S0571/15. Jeans, Weekend collection, model J40200, art. 55512/1. Shirt, Weekend collection, MO 606057/480, art. 4237. Knitwear, Ohio, model Chicago. Tie, Milano, model Tie-F. Belt, Silverto. Handkerchief, Bradford. SON: jacket, Finest Jacketings, wool and cashmere, ref. 802074. Trousers, Panache, pure wool, ref. 500986. Fully fashioned wool, silk & cashmere turtle neck, Ohio, model Tampa, colour 2. Handkerchief, Dover, art. 6071/10. FATHER:
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pure camelhair coat, Overcoatings, ref 851929. Suit, Cortina, Super 130’s, ref. 703665. Shirt, model FA, quality E3, art. 4037. Tie, Dover, art. 6071. Gloves, model G 12400, art. 40064/2. SON: pure cashmere coat, Overcoatings, ref. 851925. Knitwear, Ohio, model Tampa, colour 2. Handcrafted umbrella with peccary covered handle, U 202 02, art. 33500/3. FATHER:
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jacket, Outdoor collection, S19100, quality 70200/3. Fully fashioned sweater in finest wool, silk and cashmere blend, Montana, model Tampa, colour 3. Gloves, model G 12200, art. 40062/4. SON: down filled short jacket, Outdoor collection, S19000, art. 70100/2. Jeans, ref. 402 00. Guernsey-style sweater in two-ply merino wool, art. Oregon, model Miami, colour 1. Gloves, model G12400, art. 40064/3. FATHER:
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jacket, Casheen, pure cashmere, ref. 852272. Trousers, Flannel and Saxony, woollen flannel, ref. 702817. Fully fashioned wool, cashmere & silk turtle neck, Ohio, model Tampa, colour 11. Belt, Darwin 2. SON: jacket, Royal Silk, pure silk, ref. 852281. Trousers, Flannel and Saxony, Super 120’s, ref. 702828. Knitwear, Dakota, model Miami, colour 1. FATHER:
Pure camelhair coat, Overcoatings, ref. 851929. Shirt, F2 W 4215. Woven pattern silk tie, Brighton, 3200/5. Bacground fabric, Panache, Super 100’s, ref. 500963. Page 37 - left to right
Suit and background fabric, Cortina, ref. 703673. Shirt, E3, art. 4037. Fine printed wool tie, Devonport 2/6. Handkerchief, printed wool, quality York. Suit and background fabric, Cortina, ref. 703665. Shirt, E3, 4037. Tie, Dover, 6071/6. Handkerchief, printed wool, York.
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suit, Fidelio, pure wool, ref. 703647. Shirt, F2, FA, art. 4192. Tie, Brighton, quality 3209/8. Belt, Brisbane, art. 3. Handkerchief, Aosta, quality 651/3. Left side: shirt, Twill, quality F2, art. 9192. Tie, Oxford, 2091/9. SON: 3-piece suit, Eton, Super 130’s, art. 752773. Shirt, model MO, quality F2, art. 4168. Tie, Liverpool, art. 6201. Handkerchief, Bradford, art. 7265.
Chunky knitted cardigan, art. Kentucky, model Lexington, color 1. Shirt, G3, art. 4237. Printed fine wool tie, Dover, 6071/7. Ivy-league sweater in finest merino wool, Kentucky, model Lexington, color 1. Background fabric, Panache, Super 100’s, ref. 500963. Jacket, Weekend collection, I 3036 00, quality 89026/1. Shirt, G3, art. 4237. Fully fashioned wool, silk and cashmere blend sweater, Ohio, Chicago, color 2. Handkerchief, printed wool, York. Background fabric, Panache, Super 100’s, ref. 500951.
Suit and background fabric, Super 180’s and cashmere flannel, ref. 752821. Super 170 finest cotton shirt with delicate check, D3, art. 4020. Printed tie in fine wool, Dover, art. 6071/7. Suit and background fabric, Eton, Super 130’s, fabric ref. 752782. Superfine cotton twill shirt, F2, art. 4192. Printed fine wool tie, Dover, art. 6071/7. Handkerchief, printed wool, quality York.
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Jacket, Royal Silk, pure silk, ref. 852281. Shirt, F2 W 4215. Fully fashioned sweater in extremely warm and soft yak wool, Dakota, model Miami, color 1. Background fabric, Flannel and Saxony, Super 120’s, ref. 702828. Jacket, Casheen, pure cashmere, ref. 852275. Lightweight cotton flannel shirt with soft collar, G3 4237. Ivy-league sweater in finest merino wool, Kentucky, model Lexington, color 1. Handmade bow tie in printed wool, Dover, 6071/1. Handkerchief, York. Background fabric, J40300, quality 55521/3.
Suit and background fabric, Orchid, Super 150’s, ref. 900667. Delicately striped shirt of finest cotton, F2 4180. Pure wool hopsack tie, Dover, 6074/3. Suit and background fabric, Luxxor, Super 150’s and cashmere, ref. 752853. Superfine satin shirt, PP1 803, luxury popeline 330/3. Woven pattern silk tie, Brighton, 3200/5.
FATHER:
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double breasted coat, Ultra silk Siberia, pure silk, ref. 900636. Suit, Orchid, Super 150’s, ref. 900667. Shirt F2, quality 4180, colour 658. Tie, Dover 6074/3. SON: 3-piece suit, Luxxor, Super 150’s and cashmere, ref. 752853. Shirt, PD1 241. Tie, Brighton, art. 3200. Shoes, model L 506 00, quality 555 66/1. Socks, Southern, colour 3. FATHER:
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shirt, ME, quality PE1/992, colour 602. Trousers,
Monterey Bay, wool and mohair, ref. 703432. Braces, Vicenza, quality 802, colour 1. Bow tie, Milano, art. 221/5. SON: tuxedo, Festival, viscose and wool, ref. 852336. Trousers, Monterey Bay, Super 100’s and Kid mohair, ref. 703432. Shirt, ME, quality PE1/992, colour 602. Bow tie and cummerbund, Milano, art. 221/5. Page 23
camouflage tuxedo jacket, Festival, wool and acetate, ref. 852330. Trousers, Monterey Bay, Super 100’s and Kid mohair, ref. 703432. Shirt, ME, quality PE1. Bow tie, Milano, art. 221/5. SON: tuxedo, Festival, wool and silk, ref. 852335. Trousers, Monterey Bay, Super 100’s and Kid mohair, ref. 703432. Shirt, ME, quality PE1. Bow tie and cummerbund, Milano, art. 221/5. FATHER:
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suit, Fidelio, pure wool, fabric ref. 703631. Shirt, Model MO, quality F2, art. 4168. Printed tie in finest wool, FATHER:
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Jacket, Finest Jacketings, wool and cashmere, ref. 802074. Fully fashioned wool, silk & cashmere turtle neck, Ohio, model Tampa, color 11. Background fabric, Overcoatings, Cavalry Twill, ref. 851937. Jacket, Casheen, pure cashmere, ref. 852272. Fully fashioned wool, cashmere & silk turtle neck, Ohio, model Tampa, color 11. Handkerchief, printed wool, York. Background fabric, Panache, Super 100’s, ref. 500964. Page 35 - left to right
Coat, Alpaca, alpaca and wool, fabric ref. 852293. Superfine cotton twill shirt, F2, art. 4192. Printed fine wool tie, Dover, art. 6071/7. Background fabric, Eton, Super 130’s, fabric ref. 752782.
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Suit and background fabric, Fidelio, pure wool, fabric ref. 703631. Soft collared Royal Twill shirt, F2, art. 4168. Printed tie in finest wool, Dover, art. 6071/5. Handkerchief, printed wool, quality York. Suit and background fabric, Fidelio, pure wool, fabric ref. 703637. Shirt, F2, art. 4180. Jacquard weave finest silk tie, Brighton, art. 3207/7. Handkerchief, printed wool, quality York. Page 45 - left to right
Cashmere coat, Overcoatings, pure cashmere, ref 851925. Tuxedo shirt, PE 1292, model ME, collar 602. Bow tie, Milano, PAP2. Background fabric, Monterey Bay, Super 100’s and Kid Mohair, ref. 703432. Camouflage tuxedo jacket, Festival, wool and acetate, ref. 852330. Shirt, popeline Super 140/2. Satin bow tie, Milano, PAP 1. Background fabric, Monterey Bay, Super 100’s and Kid Mohair, ref. 703432. 59
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CREDITS
editor
photography
Gregor Thissen
Lifestyle images: Stefan Armbruster & team
creative director
Lookbook: Filip Vanzieleghem
Detlev Diehm
All other photos: subject to Scabal copyright
project coordinator
print production
Kristel Geets
Olivier Dengis, Mistral
content coordinator
make-up
Anaïs Lambert
Rebecca Despeghel
graphic design
styling
Sarah Bertounesque
Sylvain Gadeyne
Scabal thanks Top Secret Communication in Brussels and Slaets in Antwerp for the help with the following accessories: Jaeger Le Coultre watches & Oliver peoples sunglasses.
to thank the six hundred people who put their motivated and dedicated hands to ensuring the ongoing development of Scabal’s activities.
Scabal would like to give special thanks to the Van Buuren Museum and Hotel Metropole in Brussels for their invaluable contribution to the production of this catalogue. Stefano Rivera, the CEO of Scabal, would like
Nothing in this catalogue may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher. © SCABAL – Rue du Chantier/ Werfstraat 5, 1000 Brussels – Belgium – T +32 2 217 98 49 – www.scabal.com 61
www.scabal.com