Cover Foto: Lauri Laan
180° by Matthias Diether
Staapli 4, Port Noblessner
10415 Tallinn Tue-Sat 18 - 23 +372 661 0180 180degrees.ee
Texts: Heidi Vihma Designer: Aleksander Karu Translator: Juta Ristsoo
Photos: Kaupo Kalda (5), Lauri Laan (6,7) visitestonia.com (47, 51), privat collections
Our small country is filled with large flavours, exciting and unique eateries. Savouring Estonia has selected the best of the best. No matter whether it is a fancy, fine dining restaurant or the vendor of simple street food, they are all places where we eat, where we invite our friends and acquaintances, and that we are always happy to recommend to foreign visitors. Estonia has always been a border country both geographically and gastronomically. Like other Nordic countries, we prefer pure and fresh flavours. However, these have been enriched by both our close neighbours the Russians, as well as the Germans, with whom we shared a cultural space for centuries. Yet today, the local flavour palette includes the entire world – we are curious and open to trying new things. The high quality of our restaurants is proven by that fact that, in 2022, several Estonian restaurants came under scrutiny by the MICHELIN Guide. One MICHELIN Star was awarded to two restaurants, five others received the Bib Gourmand designation. and two were awarded the MICHELIN Green Star.
Katrin Weiss Restaurant Critic Best Guides OÜ
Wishing you flavour journeys filled with new experiences,Heidi Vihma Estonia Estonia
Fine dining hasn’t meant classical restaurants with white tablecloths for a long time now. Today, fine dining restaurants can be very unique and special. But basic truths never change and they still value the completeness of the experience, and turn their attention to all aspects thereof. These are places where the food and service are first class, and the menu represents the head chef’s unique creations that are born of commitment. In these places the beverage menu is outstanding, the design supports the whole, and attention is paid to the smallest details.
In some cases, the line between fine dining and casual dining may be paper-thin, but usually casual restaurants do not set goals that are comparable to fine dining. Instead they focus on the atmosphere. The casual style gives chefs the courage to try various flavour combinations and techniques, and provides the guests with a pleasant atmosphere in which to enjoy them. Under the heading of casual dining, we have collected those restaurants and cafés that provide a gastronomical experience, pleasant service and relaxing atmosphere. These are places where you can also stop by for a drink, snack or light meal.
The fact that street food can also be gourmet food is proven by the best street food vendors around the world. During the last few years, local gourmet street food has also developed in Estonia. Initially indeed based on examples from the rest of the world, since Estonian street food is still developing. A new phenomenon on the Estonian culinary landscape is the chef going and ‘mixing with the people’. Searching for new challenges, internationally experienced top chefs are establishing street food kiosks, and applying their high culinary experience in a new context and raising street food to a totally new level.
During the last ten years, the Tallinn restaurant landscape has undergone exceptional rapid development. Good restaurants of various styles, which value local ingredients, can be found in every neighbourhood. The greatest concentration of restaurants, cafes and bars is in the Old Town, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. But when seeking gastronomic adventures, one shouldn’t limit themselves to the main thoroughfares, but also pop into some of the back streets. In the city centre, it’s worth visiting the Rotermann Quarter, where there are many special eateries. Some of the fancier fine dining restaurants are located outside the city centre in Kadriorg, Pirita and elsewhere. The street food is concentrated in trendy Kalamaja, especially around the Baltic Station, and in Pelgulinn. Tallinn is a food capital that deserves attention.
180 Degrees, a fine dining establishment located in historic Port Noblessner, serves a four- and a six-course tasting menu. The flavour experience is completed by the visual enjoyment provided by the sea view and the kitchen in the centre of the dining room, which is open on three sides. The head chef is Matthias Diether, a Michelin-starred chef from Germany, whose ambition is to raise the quality of the local cuisine to a new level. The taste experience providing culinary brilliance is perfected by the relationship between food and drink.
Sustainable and seasonal
Fotografiska gets its inspiration from traditional local production methods and the changing of the seasons on the land, at sea and in the woods. Based on the sustainable thinking of our ancestors, nothing is wasted, the raw ingredients include everything from the blossoms to the roots and from the snouts to the tails. The principle of sustainable enjoyment is not only adhered to in the kitchen, but recycling is also highly regarded throughout the restaurant. Head chef Peeter Pihel is probably the Estonian food authority who has attracted the most attention, having had a brilliant career at the Alexander restaurant in the Pädaste Manor, as well as at the Fäviken Magasinet in Sweden and Fulgurances in Paris, which are among the best in the world.
Modern meat restaurant
The founders of the Härg (Ox in English) Restaurant are three Estonian meat specialists and grill masters – Enn Tobreluts and Andres Tuule. The menu favourites include highquality steaks, slow-cooked meat, and grilled dishes. The menu also features lamb, pork and duck dishes, fish, seafood, vegetarian dishes and healthy salads. The Härg’s modern interior design, which has been deemed worthy of a nomination for the annual prize awarded by the Estonian Association of Interior Architects, makes it special and festive. In the summer the restaurant expands onto the terrace, and the courtyard can accommodate larger groups of guests.
The founders of the Pull (Bull in English) Restaurant include Enn Tobreluts, Estonia’s most authoritative meat specialist and grill master, and therefore, one can be sure that the meat dishes served here are outstanding. Most of the dishes are prepared over an open fire. And it is definitely worth trying the ‘dirty steak’, which is cooked in charcoal, and has become one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. The menu also includes fish and vegan dishes, but it is the very plentiful and highquality meat selection that is so impressive. Fresh salads and a large selection of wines to accompany the meat are also on offer.
A restaurant that breaks culinary taboos has established itself in the historical building on Olevimägi at the back end of the Old Town. Chef Joonas Koppel dares to offer unconventional food experiences, but does so in a very glamorous way, i.e. more haute couture than smart casual or boho, to use fashion terms. The menu includes surprising taste combinations and harmonies, and a play of colours and forms. Inspiration from various national cuisines, along with diverse ingredients – both classical and contemporary – are used to shift the limits of traditional tastes. The gastronomic experience is framed by an interior design that doesn’t lack self-irony or a bit of black humour.
Smak, built in a warehouse of Tallinn’s former cargo port, is romantically bright and airy. The mood is complemented by the artworks displayed on the limestone walls. The soul of the restaurant is chef Dmitri Rooz, one of Estonia’s top chefs, who has represented Estonia at the Bocuse d’Or competition one of the world’s most prestigious cooking competitions. The menu changes seasonally and provides experiences for every occasion. Smak’s menu is like an improvisation of well-known themes, with “something more” being added to the original favourites, i.e. some unexpected addition, some new flavour nuance or even a technological stunt. Whereas the surprises are never intended to be just tricks, but rather as an expansion of one’s culinary horizons.
Restaurant Wicca is located just thirty kilometres from Tallinn in LaSpa, one of the most popular spa hotels near Tallinn. The menu improvises with Estonian food traditions combining the old and the new in unexpected, but always delicious, ways. Restaurant Wicca offers something unique that can seldom be found elsewhere, be it novel flavour combinations or special, yet to be widely discovered, ingredients. All of these are sourced locally from small-scale farmers and producers, as well as from the forests and meadows. Restaurant Wicca head chef Angelica Udeküll also introduces Estonian flavours in her signature TV cooking show.
The Kolu Inn at the Open Air Museum in Rocca al Mare serves traditional Estonian food in an original 19th-century building. The menu is focused on century-old traditions, but also makes some detours into the present day. As is typical of farm food, the dishes are simple, but prepared with a warm heart and skilful hands. In modern terms, the dishes at the Kolu Inn can be described as the most authentic slow food. The menu includes pork and porridge, sauerkraut, pea soup, and other simple farm dishes that fewer and fewer members of the younger generation still know how to prepare.
Here’s a truly authentic Thai restaurant in the Old Town of Tallinn. Chef Khampan Pukdangpan and his team will make sure you experience the warm hospitality and genuine flavours that are typical of the charming Kingdom of Thailand. Here, the perfect balance of salty, sweet, sour and bitter will take you on an exotic journey. In addition to working in Thailand and Estonia, chef Khampan Pukdangpan has also practiced his cooking secrets in world-class restaurants in Fiji, Maldives, Seychelles, Morocco, and the United Arab Emirates. Many of the dishes are prepared quickly at high temperatures to preserve the beneficial properties of the food, with the focus on the texture, colour, and harmony of the various tastes.
Platz was one of the first restaurants to establish itself in the newly renovated historical Rotermann industrial district. And it secured the best location at the crossroads of the pedestrian pathways. The minimalist Scandinavian-style interior and diverse menu are ideal for a nononsense business meeting, quick lunch or a formal dinner. On several occasions, Platz has been chosen as the restaurant with one of Estonia’s best beverage menus, which is much more diverse than usual. The terrace, which is an integral part of Platz in the summer, is a great place to rest and observe the hustle and bustle of the city.
Tsunft is simultaneously a bakery, deli, wine bar, café, lunch restaurant and, during the second half of the week, an evening restaurant. They call themselves a workshop for breakfast, lunch and dinner in the Uus Maailm, i.e. a neighbourhood that has become one of the trendiest areas of Tallinn in recent years. A creative approach and fresh local farm products dominate at the restaurant. In addition to delicious lunches and dinners, Tsunft has become famous for its open tartare sandwich, which is considered the best in the city by customers who appreciate steak tartare. The wine bar offers a wide selection from the Old World, including biodynamic and natural wines, as well as grower-champagnes.
The largest food court in Estonia
The Balti Jaama Turg is a renovated, modern universal market. It includes trendy secondhand shops, stalls loaded with fresh berries, fruits and vegetables, various cheeses, meats directly from butchers, chocolate shops and so much more. In addition to all that, Balti Jaama Turg has the largest food court in Estonia, where you can find burgers that have been chosen as 4th best in all of Europe, wraps, baos, vegan street food, fresh pastries and handmade French fries. The food court and market offer both Estonian, as well as other national cuisines, i.e. Japanese, Ukrainian, Georgian, Chinese, Italian, French, South African and many more.
Uulits, the only local street food chain, which can also be considered the pioneer of street food in Estonia, offers traditional street fare with a healthy and contemporary approach. This is gourmet street food, prepared in the style of a first-class restaurants the burgers are prepared to order and everything is made on-site – beef burgers, burger wraps, salads, sauces and fries. Starting years ago with a modest kiosk, the chain has expanded to several locations in Tallinn, Viimsi, Tartu and summer season pop-up in Pärnu.
Viru Burger started as a summer popup restaurant located on the roof of the Viru Keskus shopping centre. Today it has expanded to three locations: in the Volta House and Mustamäe Centre in Tallinn, as well as Tartu city centre. American-style smashed burgers, which have been made in the U.S. for almost 70 years are on the menu: the burger patties are cooked on a flattop grill under a special weight. The burgers are particularly juicy when prepared this way. Like in any proper burger, the meat, condiment and salad are well-balanced. The meat arrives at the restaurant from South Estonia. The sauces are made on-site. And the buns are baked fresh every day. In addition to the classics, the menu also includes an Animal-Style Burger with bacon that is flavoured maple syrup, a Truffle Burger with truffle mayonnaise and a vegetarian Scamburger.
Tööstuse 47d, Tallinn, A.H Tammsaare tee 104a, Tallinn, Küüni 7, Tartu
Viru Keskus is an urban game changer, and not only in terms of space, but also in its radical approach to food and beverage. The Viru Keskus Food Hall, launched in 2022, features 16 unique restaurants and bars, creating an authentic and cosy place for socialising. What makes this food hall unique is the combination of local heroes and international superstars and even Michelin-starred chefs all coming together under one roof to satisfy the needs of the modern customer. Whether you’re looking to have a quick bite or an enjoyable dinner with friends, world-quality coffee, a pint of the best craft beer or a healthy lunch, you can enjoy it all here.
Viru väljak 4/6, 10111 Tallinn, Eesti
The pizzas at Kolm Tilli are made in a woodfired oven, and the pasta is made by hand on site. Mikkeller, one of the world’s top five craft beer producers offers mouth-watering roasted chicken wings with its craft beer, and KÜLM, a farm ice cream maker, is also present. Pavlova enchants with its desserts. Papermill serves coffee. And F. Burger offers artisanal burgers. Asian street food is represented by KimiJim, Hawaiian flavours by PokeBowl & Meze, South American cuisine by Stereo StreetFood, Uzbekistan by its own Samsa Family Bakers, and oriental flavours by MySushi and CHI. Refreshing the food selection are the pop-up restaurants that have found a home in an iconic Airstream food truck.
Viru väljak 4/6, 10111 Tallinn, Eesti
Tartu is not only a university city, but also a city of good flavours. Its numerous restaurants serve exciting flavour experiences, whereas many of the raw ingredients came from local small producers and farms in South Estonia. During the summer, pop-up cocktail and wine bars, for taking time out in Tartu style, appear on the Emajõgi River promenade. The year’s greatest food event is the Food and Wine Festival in August, when good food and drink occupy the entire city for three days. Other contributions are made by the Tasty Tartu Restaurant Month and the Home Café Days in May, August and September.
Enchanting atmosphere, delicious flavours
The GMP Pühajärve Restaurant is like a hidden jewel on the shore of the picturesque Lake Pühajärv in South-Estonia. It has been among the best eateries in Estonia for years, by serving top-quality culinary arts. The menu includes many elegant dishes prepared from local ingredients, which always provide a positive surprise. Head chef Koit Uustalu’s efforts are not limited to what is prepared in the kitchen. And the entire team works hard to give the guests a warm welcome and make sure they feel comfortable. And these same values guide the entire staff at the GMP Clubhotel as a whole.
GMP Patisserie
Paris in the heart of Tartu
The excellent choice of flavours at the Joyce restaurant is a delight. The proprietors have discovered that elusive something that makes a good restaurant into an excellent one. The menu creates unexpected harmonies, by passionately combining continents and lands. These result in some of the city’s most exciting flavour games, which are played with youthful fervour. Joyce is focused on two values that are understood around the world: ‘joy’, which results from time spent in good company; and the ‘choice’ of impressive flavours that will please any guest.
Only a short drive from Tallinn is Lääne-Viru County, the land of historic manor houses and the picturesque north coast. The special nature and cultural heritage of Lahemaa National Park, with its bogs and giant boulders, provides the joy of discovery, as does the winding coastline with its shady coves and windy capes. The local “summer capital” is Võsu with its beautiful sandy beach, promenade, romantic cottages and various summer events.
The small village of Võsu on the northern coast of Estonia could be called the gastronomic centre of Lahemaa National Park. A significant part of the village life and activities revolves around the Mere 38 restaurant where nothing is improper. The menu depends on what the sea currently provides, but also on one’s mood, weather and appetite. Joonas Koppel, who’s been the chef at some of the capital’s top restaurants, blends the world’s flavours and local ingredients with a light summery playfulness, and combines the classics with the latest gastronomic trends. The result is quite whimsical, providing novel experiences for even the most experienced foodies. The cosy atmosphere is enhanced by the sea and the sandy beach that is only a short walk away.
If, restaurants elsewhere that appreciate local food try to obtain their raw materials from suppliers within a radius of a hundred kilometres, on the islands and in Lääne County, one doesn’t need to travel that far – almost everything exists locally. Through the ages, much of the staple food has come from the sea, which is why the fish dishes prepared there are better than anywhere else. Because the soil layer is thin, the coastal meadows have not been ploughed into fields, and the sheep and cattle are able to graze in the heritage landscapes as they’ve always done. The grain comes from the fields. The mushrooms and berries from the forests. Valuing seasonal local ingredients and a curiosity about the world’s gastronomic innovations has made sure that the eateries of the quiet resort town of Haapsalu, as well as the restaurants of Kuressaare, the largest city on the islands, have a place on the gastronomic map of Estonia.
Fish Cafe at the End of the World
In the small Dirham fish café, located in the far corner of Lääne County, where the bounty of the sea reaches the table, the menu is as changeable as the sea itself. Freshly caught fish from the sea or smoked at the local fishery, the harbour and fishing boats, the terrace on a sandy beach, as well as the rushes and sunset view, have all made this small eatery so popular that advance bookings are recommended. The dishes are simple, but full of surprising flavours. Dirham’s chef has discovered new nuances for preparing the most ordinary local fish, like Baltic herrings and sprats. The wine selection is not large, but harmonises well with the dishes. The service is low-key, and homely, as is typical of the countryside.
In Haapsalu, the newly restored Friedheim villa provides culinary and drink experiences in the Von Gernet café-restaurant. The restaurant has been named after the Gernets, the noble family who formerly owned the building. As is appropriate to its status, the menu caters to the food preferences of the tsarist court and is based on 19th-century cuisine. The classic style has been supplemented with modern ideas from both European and Russian cuisine. The restaurant’s flower-drenched terrace opens directly onto the seafront, providing enchanting sea views. The eye-catching interior design features spacious windows, a von Gernet family photo and display case filled with sumptuous patisserie, i.e., French-style pastries. The Villa Friedham boutique hotel and Von Gernet Restaurant are part of the GMP Group, which has garnered fame among gourmets with the highly regarded Pühajärve GMP Clubhotel restaurant and GMP Patisserie café in Tartu.
