The lifestyle Journal

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Dopo un numero milanese completamente dedicato al vivere “green” e ispirato dalla bellissima manifestazione Orticola, che ogni anno a maggio invade i Giardini di Palestro con piante, fiori e signore in cappello très chic, “The Lifestyle Journal” dedica l’uscita in concomitanza con Pitti Immagine Uomo al “verde” fiorentino e toscano.

D’altronde, quale regione italiana incarna meglio lo stile “country chic” e la bellezza del vivere in campagna con semplicità e gusto? Firenze stessa si trova ai piedi delle colline, circondata da parchi e giardini; i suoi abitanti sono persone semplici e schiette, ma con uno stile e un’originalità speciali. Per rappresentarli al meglio, abbiamo scelto Costantino Ruspoli, fotografo di fama internazionale e “cittadino del mondo”, con un forte legame con la Toscana e la sua campagna, Firenze e i suoi personaggi illustri ma, soprattutto, interprete di quello charme che in queste pagine vogliamo rappresentare.

Vi portiamo, poi, alla scoperta dei parchi cittadini e dei giardini degli hotel più lussuosi, dove concedersi una “pausa rigenerante” nella calda stagione. Ma anche dei sentieri campestri più pittoreschi, dei giardini privati e delle ville rinascimentali di maggiore pregio. Il tutto accompagnato da consigli d’eleganza per la stagione e l’autunno che verrà, in perfetto mood campestre.

Un’altra declinazione del grande stile italiano che, durante Pitti, Firenze incarna più che mai.

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รจ registrato presso il Tribunale di Milano autorizzazione numero 672 del 21 dicembre 2010

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BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN

ROEDERER_MONS105.pgs

26.10.2011

10:08

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In apertura: la casa toscana di Costantino Ruspoli In queste pagine, foto di Costantino Ruspoli: Firenze, Collezione Lungarno; Restauro dell’Officina Profumo Farcmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

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In questa pagina: la marchesa Bona Frescobaldi ritratta da Costantino Ruspoli; un ritratto di Costantino Ruspoli.

Nella pagina accanto: Nencia Corsini e Gianluca Gori ritratti da Costantino Ruspoli

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In apertura: il Giardino dell’Orticoltura In questa pagina, dall’alto: Villa Bardini, l’Orto Botanico, la fontana del Giardino dei Boboli, Palazzo Corsini; Parco Peyron a Fiesole, disegno del Giardino di Boboli di Palazzo Pitti (nel cerchio)

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Emporio Armani - Ermanno Scervino

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Salvatore Ferragamo - Mallfashion - Dior Homme

Ovadia - Ermenegildo Zegna - Ovadia

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Andrea Pompilio - scarponcini Santoni - Boss Orange - 1000 Mile - Trussardi

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NATURA,

UOMO E PROGRESSO:

UN PERCORSO ECO-SOSTENIBILE

32 Via dei Birrai è un birrificio artigianale.

La filosofia aziendale è data dallo stesso movimento del cerchio nel quale risulta inscritto il logo: una linea curva in grado di disegnare il ciclo della tradizione dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;arte birraia e portarlo alla scoperta di percorsi non ancora tracciati.

32 Via dei Birrai rappresenta la perfetta equazione tra gusto e design, tra ricerca e metodo, senza mai sconfinare nella massificazione industriale.

Lo dimostrano le certificazioni ottenute, che ne garantiscono i parametri di qualitĂ .

32 Via dei Birrai

Via Cal Lusent, 41, 31040 Pederobba, Treviso - Italia +39 0423 68 19 83 - www.32viadeibirrai.it

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)KKM[[WZQ ยนKW]V\Za KPQKยบ Cappelli 01 Dunhill 02 Lock & Co 03 Burberry Prorsum 04 Lanvin 05 Folk-Cotton 06 Lock & Co 07 Woven Straw Fedora 08 Salvatore Ferragamo (indossato)

Zaini 09 Roll Top 10 Sandqvist Rucksack 11 Whillas & Gunn 12 Herschel Supply Co. 13 Bill Amberg

Scarpe 14 Alberto Moretti Arfango 15 Burberry Prorsum 16 hook + ALBERT 17 Salvatore Ferragamo

And more...

18 Gallo 19 Persol 20 Tortoise Glasses 21 Spitfire

/D FKLFFD 22 bicicletta โ Vestitaโ Sartoria Cicli Milano

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Va' dove ti porta il business

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di Gordon Sorlini

SarĂ sempre piĂš casual, ma un casual elegante, lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;uomo delle prossime stagioni. E dove va il gusto segue il business. Ma quali sono le reali prospettive per questa fetta importante di made in Italy che deve fare i conti con una crisi che dura da anni e non dĂ segnali rassicuranti?

Prima uno sguardo ai numeri. Secondo Claudia Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Arpizio, partner della multinazionale della consulenza Bain, nel 2011 il mercato â&#x20AC;&#x153;uomoâ&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; inteso non solo come abbigliamento, ma anche â&#x20AC;&#x153;hard luxuryâ&#x20AC;? (gioielleria, orologeria), accessori in pelle, calzature, cosmetici, fragranze e altri accessori â&#x20AC;&#x201C; valeva 72 miliardi di euro a livello mondiale. Nel periodo 2011-14 questo mercato è previsto in crescita del 9-11%; il solo segmento abbigliamento nel 2011 valeva 24 miliardi, il 33% del mercato, e le previsioni sono di unâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;espansione dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;8-10% entro i prossimi tre anni. La crescita maggiore verrĂ dagli accessori in pelle (+17-19% entro il 2014), che partono però da una base piĂš modesta (7 miliardi nel 2011, pari al 9% del totale del mercato uomo). (segue a pagina 12)

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Trend

Il nuovo formale sceglie, invece, forme destrutturate e piĂš morbide Pag. 18

Produzione

Per battere la crisi un mix di eccellenza e idee nuove da tramutare in business. Pag. 31

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Focus

PiÚ che saturo è un mercato maturo. Le nuove città da conquistare. Pag.3

Retail

Come il negozio deve interagire con i social network, fondendo luogo fisico e digitale. Pag.41

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VAMPIRO E GENTILUOMO

Le fiere delle vanitĂ (maschili)

*

"

Una babele di marchi, una giungla di eventi, un intrecciarsi di presentazioni, sfilate, chilometri e chilometri macinati nei corridoi dei saloni e per saltare da una location allâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;altra.

Un totale di circa 1300 marchi di abbigliamento e accessori non solo da uomo, poichĂŠ anche le precollezioni donna giocano sempre piĂš dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;anticipo. Il tour delle fiere italiane parte da Firenze con un calendario ricco di appuntamenti e guest sempre piĂš qualificati, da Carven a Valentino, da Andrea Pompilio a Peter Pilotto. Per arrivare a Milano con le passerelle degli stilisti e le presentazioni, facendo tappa a White con tante new entry fra cui Daniel Andresen, Fagassent, Isabel Benenato, Catâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s by Tsumori Chisato. (pag. 15)

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Abito a due bottoni, camicia bianca e cravatta sottile: la divisa del giovane manager è firmata Gucci.

Come quella per Robert Pattinson in Cosmopolis.

Sono i film che influenzano la moda o viceversa?

Fatto sta che lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;abito di Gucci indossato da Robert Pattinson nel thriller Cosmopolis presentato a Cannes diventerĂ la divisa di lavoro dei giovani manager rampanti. Poco importa se non sono belli e affascinanti come lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ex vampiro adolescente di Twilight. Quello che conta è essere impeccabili in un completo nero a due bottoni (quello di Gucci è il modello Signoria), con

taglio sartoriale, da abbinare alla piĂš classica delle camicie bianche e da accessoriare con una cravatta sottile, una cintura in pelle con fibbia argento e stringate rigorosamente nere. Niente di piĂš tradizionale e scontato forse per i business men che frequentano Wall Street o Piazza Affari, ma che regala fascino ai giovani arrampicatori sociali. Poco importa se quando si toglie la divisa da lavoro lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;uomo predi-

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lige giacche morbide e destrutturate, giubbotti realizzati in materiali tecnici e performanti, mocassini e stringate dai trattamenti used, comode borse al posto delle rigide 24ore o griffati porta iPad. Perchè è in questa direzione che ha virato nelle ultime stagioni la moda maschile, come dimostra il crescente spazio riservato al casualwear nella quasi totalità delle collezioni. Ma come ha detto Umberto Angeloni,

ceo di Caruso, nellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;articolo a pagina 12 â&#x20AC;&#x153;dopo anni in cui lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;uomo si è riempito il guardaroba di capi informali, a poco a poco ritornerĂ a investire nel formale. Eâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; una questione di cicliâ&#x20AC;?. Deve averlo pensato anche la costumista di Cosmopolis, Denise Cronenberg, quando ha cucito addosso a Eric Parker/Pattinson quellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;abito elegante e costoso, trovando in Gucci il partner ideale per questa scelta.

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$11$ 35$1'21, Classe 1975, lombarda verace, è una penna disinvolta in cucina... Attuale brand director de “La Cucina Italiana”, Anna Prandoni si occupa da oltre dieci anni di enogastronomia, con particolare attenzione alla storia dell’alimentazione e alla sua influenza sulla cultura e la società italiane, prima in qualità di direttore della Scuola de “La Cucina Italiana” e poi di web editor del sito della rivista. Ha firmato una rubrica di ricette e itinerari golosi per le pagine lombarde del “Corriere della Sera” e collaborato a Identità Golose e alla Guida de “L’Espresso” con il ruolo di ispettore.

Ha scritto numerosi libri sull’argomento e curato, per la casa editrice De Vecchi, una collana dedicata alla cucina della salute, una alla cucina etnica e i volumi relativi alla cucina regionale italiana.

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)(51$1'$ 52**(52 Giornalista storica de โ Il Sole 24 oreโ e caporedattore del settimanale โ Nรฒvaโ , cura anche un blog che aggiorna quotidianamente con le piรน interessanti (e strampalate) news dallโ universo del โ food & wineโ , dal caro-prezzi delle tazzine cinesi alle produzioni emiliane danneggiate dal terremoto. ร appassionata di cibo per merito di una nonna, cuoca straordinaria, ma, a quanto pare, non ne ha ereditato le virtรน culinarie: gli amici, insomma, di solito preferiscono invitarla a casa loro. Di sangue piemontese, ama i vini rossi e gli agnolotti, tanto quanto le piรน spericolate invenzioni eno-gastronomiche. Si occupa di chef e artigiani del gusto da anni, e non finisce mai di stupirsi. Che non si mangiasse solo per nutrirsi, invece, lo aveva capito da un pezzo.

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Il primo giardino è alimentare. Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;orto è il primo giardiM]ZW ! ! no. Ă&#x2C6; atemporale poichĂŠ non soltanto fonda la storia dei giardini, ma la attraversa e la segna profondamente in ogni suo periodo.

Il primo giardino è un recinto. Conviene proteggere il bene prezioso del giardino; la verdura, la frutta, e poi i fiori, gli animali, lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;arte di vivere, quello che, col passare del tempo, continuerĂ a sembrarci il ÂŤmeglioÂť. Ă&#x2C6; la maniera di interpretare il meglio che, a seconda dei modelli di civiltĂ , determinerĂ lo stile dei giardini. La nozione di meglio, di bene prezioso, è in continua evoluzione. La scenografia destinata a valorizzare il meglio si adegua al cambiamento dei fondamenti del giardino, ma il principio del giardino rimane costante: avvicinarsi il piĂš possibile al paradiso.

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ISBN

Quodlibet Gilles ClĂŠment Breve storia del giardino

Gilles ClĂŠment

le Natioes e scritorie e con e il Parc i Branly, azione di radotti in 22 publide (Deri1). Presso del Terzo i (2005) e

*773;

978-88-7462-426-3

14,50 euro

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LA TUA NUOVA SEDE A MILANO Nel cuore pulsante della Milano più di tendenza, si trova Biblioteca della Moda un vero e proprio “Media Relazionale” per la Comunità Internazionale della moda e del design, un luogo che coltiva stretti rapporti con le Case Editrici, le Istituzioni, le Associazioni di Categoria, gli Enti Fieristici, Stampa, Buyer, oltre a quelli con il mondo della distribuzione italiana ed estera.

Da oggi è stato concepito un “CARNET D’ENTRATE“ che dà diritto ad utilizzare a singole giornate o anche per poche ore Biblioteca della Moda come la “TUA SEDE MILANESE” per: -RICEVERE I PROPRI CLIENTI E FORNITORI -UTILIZZARE LO SPAZIO per Campagne Vendita, o per semplici giornate di lavoro -PARTECIPARE AD EVENTI, MOSTRE e FOCUS GROUP Per eventuali sopralluoghi ed informazioni: E-mail b.badioli@bibliotecadellamoda.it T.02-83311205 www.bibliotecadellamoda.it | www.milanofashionapartment.it

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Un momento della presentazione del libro

Le mele di La Trentina

I prodotti BioAppetรฌ

Lโ allestimento floreale di FLM Giardini

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Ursula Crespi Morbio e le figlie

“Mazzolin di Fiori” di Andrea Salvetti

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“Apple” di Lisa Pappon per Bull & Stein

Premio “Io Donna”: da sinistra, Diamante d’Alessio, Francesca Marzotto Caotorta, Anna Peyron e Gianluca Brivio Sforza

Giulia Santagostino

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Chelsea Flower Show 2011

Festa delle Rose (Rosazzo)

Alcuni allestimenti di Orticola 2012

Franciacorta in Fiore 2012 Vannozza della Seta Paravicini

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Giorgio Forattini

Da sinistra: Sofia e Liliana Dates

Ipomea del Negombo

Herbaria 2010

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8MZ QVNW" ___ KZ]KQIVQ Q\ Elena Santarelli

Dita Von Teese indossa il braccialetto Cruciani C four-leaf

Aida Yespica

Laura Pausini indossa il braccialetto cuoricini Cruciani C

Belen Rodriguez indossa i bracciali Cruciani C

GRAFICA SILVIA DEL VESCO

www.i-adv.net

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/41 16,1:1BB1 41.-;<A4-

HOTEL AC HOTEL FIRENZE BY MARRIOTT - Via Bausi,5 - +39.055.3120111 - it.ac-hotels.com - ADLER CAVALIERI HOTEL FLORENCE - Via della

Scala, 40 - +39.055.277810 - www.hoteladlercavalieri.com - ASTORIA HOTEL FLORENCE - Via del Giglio, 9 - +39.055.2398095 - astoria.boscolohotels. com - BALESTRI HOTEL FLORENCE - Piazza Mentana, 7 - +39.055.214743 - www.hotel-balestri.it - ART HOTEL FLORENCE - Via Ghibellina, 174 +39.055.284363 - www.borghesepalacehotel.com - CONTINENTALE - Vicolo dell’Oro, 6r - +39.055.27262 - www.lungarnocollection.com - CAROLUS HOTEL FLORENCE - Via XXVII Aprile, 3 - +39.055.2645539 - www.carolushotel.com - CASA HOWARD GUEST HOUSE HOTEL FLORENCE - Via della Scala, 18 - +39.06.69924555 - www.casahoward.com - COSIMO DE’ MEDICI HOTEL FLORENCE - Largo Alinari, 15 - +39.055.211066 - www.cosimodemedici.com - CROCE DI MALTA HOTEL FLORENCE - Via della Scala, 7r - +39.055.218351 - www.crocedimaltaflorence.com - FIRENZE GRAND HOTEL VILLA CORA - Viale Niccolò Machiavelli, 18 - +39.055.228790 - www.villacora.it - FOUR SEASONS HOTEL FLORENCE - Borgo Pinti, 99 - +39.055.26261 - www.fourseasons.com/florence - GRAND HOTEL ADRIATICO FIRENZE - Via Maso Finiguerra, 9 - +39.055.27931 - www.hoteladriatico.it - GRAND HOTEL BAGLIONI FIRENZE - Piazza dell’Unità Italiana, 6 - +39.055.23580 - www.hotelbaglioni.it - GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR - Piazza d’Ognissanti, 1-3 - +39.055.27161 www.starwoodhotels.com - GALLERY HOTEL ART - Vicolo dell’Oro, 5 - + 39.055.27263 - www.lungarnocollection.com GRAND HOTEL MINERVA - Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 16 +39. 055.27230 - www.grandhotelminerva.com JK PLACE FLORENCE HOTEL - Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7 - +39.055.264 5181 - www.jkplace.com - HEMINGWAY - Piazza Piattellina, 9 - +39.055.284781 - www.hemingway.fi.it - HOTEL CARAVAGGIO FLORENCE HISTORIC CENTER - Piazza Indipendenza, 5 - +39.055.496310 - www.hotelcaravaggio.it - HOTEL FENICE PALACE - Via de’ Martelli, 10 - +39.055.289942 - www. hotelfenicepalace.it - HOTEL LUNGARNO - Borgo San Jacopo, 14 - +39.055.27261 - www.lungarnocollection.com - HOTEL KRAFT - Via Solferino, 2 +39.055.284273 - www.krafthotel.it - HOTEL HELVETIA & BRISTOL FLORENCE - Via de’ Pescioni, 2 - +39.055.26651 - helvetiabristol.warwickhotels.com - HOTEL EXECUTIVE FIRENZE - Via Curtatone, 5 - +39.055.217451 - www.hotelexecutiveflorence.com - HOTEL LORENZO IL MAGNIFICO - Via Lorenzo il Magnifico, 25 - +39.055.4630878 - www.lorenzoilmagnifico.net - HOTEL MACHIAVELLI PALACE - Via Nazionale, 10 - +39.055.216 622 - www.hotelmachiavelli.it - HOTEL PERSEO FLORENCE - Via de’ Cerretani, 1r +39.055.212649 - www.hotelperseo.it HOTEL ROMA - Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 8 +39.055.210366 - www.hotelromafirenze.com - HOTEL ROSSO 23 - Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 23 - +39.055.277300 - www.hotelrosso23.com - HOTEL SAVOY - Piazza della Repubblica, 7 - +39.055.27351 - www.hotelsavoy.it - HOTEL TORRE GUELFA - Borgo Santi Apostoli, 8 - +39.055.2396338 - www. hoteltorreguelfa.com - HOTEL VICTORIA - Via Nazionale, 102 - +39.055.287019 - www.hotelvictoriaflorence.com - MALASPINA HOTEL - Piazza Indipendenza, 24 - +39.055.489869 - www.malaspinahotel.it MARTELLI HOTEL FLORENCE - Via Panzani, 8 +39.055.217151 - www.hotelmartelli.com MONTEBELLO SPLENDID HOTEL FLORENCE - Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 14 - +39.055.27471 - www.montebellosplendid.com - SAN GALLO PALACE - Via Lorenzo il Magnifico, 2 - +39.055.463871 - www.sangallopalace.com/it - STARHOTELS MICHELANGELO - Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 2 - +39.055.2784 - www.starhotels. com/hotels/michelangelo - STROZZI PALACE HOTEL - Via dei Vecchietti, 4 +39.055.283898 - www.strozzipalacehotel.it - RELAIS SANTA CROCE - Via Ghibellina, 87 - +39.055.2341195 - www.relaisantacroce.com - UNIVERSO HOTEL FLORENCE - Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 20 - +39.055.293890 - www. hoteluniversoflorence.com - THE WESTIN EXCELSIOR FLORENCE - Piazza d’Ognissanti, 3 - +39.055.27151 - UNA HOTEL VITTORIA FLORENCE - Via Pisana, 59 - +39.055.22771 - www.unahotels.it - VILLA MEDICI GRAND HOTEL FLORENCE - Via Il Prato, 42 - +39.055.210664 - www.villamedicihotel. com - VILLA LA MASSA - Via della Massa, 24 - +039.055.62611 - www.villalamassa.com - VILLA LA VEDETTA - Viale Michelangiolo, 78 - +39.055. 681631 - www.villalavedettahotel.com - VILLA SAN MICHELE - Via Doccia, 4 - +39.055. 5678200 - www.villasanmichele.com

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