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T H E P R E M I E R P E T & AV I A RY B I R D M AG A Z I N E VO L 3 1 I S S U E 6 • D EC-JA N 2019
Blue WAXBILLS HANDREARING BASICS
Finch FOCU S
Mutations in FISCHER’S LOVEBIRDS TWENTY-EIGHT PARROTS BLUE-WINGED PARROTS Motivating PET PARROTS Watering SYSTEM
CONTENTS december–january 2019 VOLUME 31 ISSUE 6 T H E P R E M I E R P E T & AV I A RY B I R D M AG A Z I N E VO L 3 1 I S S U E 6 • D EC-JA N 2019
Blue WAXBILLS Finch FOCU S
Mutations in FISCHER’S LOVEBIRDS TWENTY-EIGHT PARROTS BLUE-WINGED PARROTS Motivating PET PARROTS Watering SYSTEM
COVER IMAGE BLUE-BREASTED WAXBILL PETER ODEKERKEN
P ODEKERKEN
HANDREARING BASICS
FE ATU RES 305
HISTORY OF THE TURQUOISE FISCHER’S LOVEBIRD By Wicus Van Der Merwe Inheritance of a ‘Turquoise’ Fischer’s Lovebird, sets the author on a determined path to breed them and discover if the orangefronted mutation found in his homeland is ‘the real Turquoise’.
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NAMING OF BLUE AND PARBLUE COMBINATION MUTATIONS By Dr Terry Martin
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DIY WATERING SYSTEM By Jason Wright Providing our birds with fresh, clean water is vital. Jason shares the planning and construction details behind his automated system.
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LIFE IN THE RED CENTRE: A MAN, A CHAIR AND HIS BIRDS By Jade Welch Jade introduces us to a man successfully keeping birds, despite being disabled and living in an arid and isolated community.
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THE BLUE WAXBILLS OF AFRICA By Peter Odekerken Magnificent little birds to see in the wild or in a captive collection, the Blue Waxbill needs the care of an experienced aviculturist to breed successfully. ROD STEVENS AND HIS MUTATION TWENTY-EIGHT PARROTS By Peter Odekerken Peter admires many mutations, but never considered breeding and keeping them…until he saw Rod Stevens’ Khaki Blues. He shares some of Rod’s secrets to success. VALE: STAN SINDEL Collated tributes. VALE: NEVILLE SIMMONS Collated tributes.
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REGU L A RS
CLASSIFIEDS
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THE WISE OWL: TRAVELLING NORTH—PART 1 By Dr Milton Lewis
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AVIAN HEALTH WITH DR BOB: DISEASES WE SHARE WITH OUR BIRDS By Dr Bob Doneley
MUTATION MUTTERINGS: A DARK ON THE HORIZON By Paul Court and Ray Chapman
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ABOUT BIRDS: STOP THE MUTTONBIRD CHICK MASSACRE By Kit Prendergast
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HOOKBILL HOBBYIST: LINGERING MYTHS IN CAPTIVE AVICULTURE—PART 2 By EB Cravens
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FINCH FUNDAMENTALS: LIVEFOOD—WHO REALLY NEEDS IT? By Marcus Pollard
WHAT’S NEW • Night Parrot: Australia’s Most Elusive Bird • Finches of Australia Reviews by Peter Odekerken
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WILD CORNER: METABOLIC BONE DISEASE IN WILD CROWS By Dr Claude Lacasse
CONSERVATION: • WPT: Yellow-crested Cockatoo Campaign By Carolyn Pradun • LPF: Breeding Experiences from Loro Parque Fundación By Rafael Zamora Padrón
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A PARROT’S LIFE: TEACH YOUR PARROT TO STATION By Lee Stone
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PET PARROT BEHAVIOUR: CHANGE STARTS WITH MOTIVATION By Hillary Hankey
LAST CHIRP: • An Unforgettable Journey— 9th International Parrot Convention, Tenerife By Carolyn Pradun • Dr Bob’s an Aussie First as TJ Lafeber Avian Practitioner of the Year • Rosemary Low wins Loro Parque Gorilla Award
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FINCH CHARM: SURPRISES IN AVICULTURE By David Pace
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BREEDER PERSPECTIVE: HANDREARING BASICS By Andrew Rankmore
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South African-bred TurquoiseBlue Fischer’s Lovebirds
History of the TURQUOISE FISCHER’S
Lovebird
AUTHOR AND IMAGES WICUS VAN DER MERWE (WM BIRDS SOUTH AFRICA) CA A) HOW IT STARTED When cancer gained the upper hand on lovebird enthusiast Uncle Neels, we received a call to come and collect some Fischer’s Lovebirds if we wanted them. That is how I bought a colony of 15 Fischer’s Agapornis fischeri at 50 Rand each. I housed them in an aviary in my garden in Pretoria. That was April 2013—I had just become a new entrant in the fascinating hobby of keeping and breeding lovebirds. AQUA OR TURQUOISE? I noticed that one of the green birds in the colony was a much lighter colour than the others, more like turquoise. This intrigued me and I started doing some research and making inquiries to try and identify this bird. I initially contacted Norris Dreyden, in Cape Town, who gave me some valuable information and advice, indicating that it was either an Aqua or a Turquoise— a so-called Parblue. I was very excited as indications were that this was a very rare mutation which was only recently imported to South Africa from the United States. I subsequently also contacted Dirk van den Abeele, a well-known author and expert on lovebirds, and he advised that, in his opinion, it was a Turquoise. He further advised that it be mated to a Blue series bird in order to be able to produce TurquoiseBlue offspring, since turquoise is allelic to blue. The proverbial bug had bitten me with a vengeance by the end of 2013, and I added four new outside aviaries in order to properly house my lucky Turquoise find and his newly acquired BlueViolet Pied female, along with all the other new acquisitions I was planning to make. Disaster struck that December while we were on our annual holiday at the coast when I received a call from the house-sitter that a lovebird had died and, as Murphy would have it, it was my Turquoise. I was devastated.
The original TurquoiseBlue
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BR E E DER P ERSP ECTI V E AUTHOR AND IMAGES ANDREW RANKMORE
HANDREARING
Basics
©ABK
MOST PUBLICATIONS and journals classify handrearing as a last resort that should only be undertaken after chicks have been parent-started. Although this advice is not disputed for the average bird keeper with limited birds and experience, handrearing does offer significant advantages in contexts outside the norm. In my experience, I prefer handrearing when the parent birds are egg-eaters or breakers, don’t feed or will kill chicks, are rare and expensive, or are destined for the pet market. Often, if there are behavioural issues, I believe the birds are inexperienced, and damage or kill chicks by accident but, as a keeper, one needs to Not all hatches are perfect and if any yolk consider the species presenting with the The black wing on this Eclectus is the remains outside the abdomen and is not able issue, and also the frequency at which the result of the chick wrapping some to be pressed into the navel cavity by sterile tissue bedding around its wing, like a pair breeds. cotton tip, tying off with dental floss and tourniquet—a caution as to the choice applying Betadine™ is your best option to avoid To be honest, I rarely let first-time of bedding for each stage of life post-hatch infection parents rear their own eggs and chicks, as often I have waited many years for them to mature and start breeding in the first place. In this circumstance, Chicks should generally be taken from the parent bird’s nest just I typically take the eggs and swap them with a more common as the eye slits have started opening or are about to open. This prolific species from my yard, or give the pair plastic eggs to obviously varies from species to species but is usually 3–4 weeks ‘practice’ on. This improves the keeper’s input and control of from hatch, and can be gauged from established growth charts. incubation and raising young, thus improving the odds of getting Additionally, one needs to research the following for any viable eggs through and converting them into chicks on the each species: perch. Once parent birds have proven themselves on less valuable • Growth period (typical hatch to peak weight), or more prolific surrogate species, one may consider letting the • Nutritional recommendations for species, and birds raise their own in future. • Recommended temperatures for brooding (temperature gradient In Australia, I generally find myself on the very rare end of from incubator to room temp as growth phase progresses). the spectrum regarding how in-depth and committed we are to raising from the egg through to sitting on the perch. Hence, we HANDREARING FROM THE EGG have borrowed much in technique and problem-solving in our This is generally not by choice and deemed necessary by the early days from large facility owners in the USA. Over there, keeper due to the parent birds being known egg-breakers or handrearing on a commercial scale has been far more advanced eaters. The work and commitment involved means that one than anything I have seen in Australia, and has been perfected cannot juggle a normal day job and feed newly hatched chicks for to such a point that the market is overly saturated with birds any sustainable length of time. Hence, it is comparatively rare in available for sale and adoption. Australia. It is also almost a complete science on its own. I recommend the literature by Rick Jordan or Tony Silva to HANDREARING FROM PARENT-STARTED CHICKS those serious about delving into egg incubation, as it is well This is the most highly recommended start for the novice. beyond the scope of what I can write about here. What I can say I recommend starting with conures, Eclectus or Blue-fronted is that we have successfully been raising many species from the Amazons to build experience and understanding. By allowing egg for about 10 years and have developed many weight charts the parent birds to incubate their eggs and hatch their young, and species-specific notes concerning parent diet (allowing for the keeper requires less equipment, products, and knowledge to viable eggs with adequate nutrition), turning, humidity and egg achieve a successful outcome. weight loss, that have allowed us to typically lose less than 5% of all fertile eggs incubated. Those who handrear from the egg have the same challenges as parent-started chicks, but with additional elements that require INCA incubators For bird more caution and care. LORI 10 brooder eggs of all One of the key things to consider is that chicks that are not species! parent-started do not get the same immune system boost. This is a temporary situation that will resolve by the time birds wean, but it does need consideration. Probiotics and tight hygiene are the keys Phone: +61 (0)7 3888 1725 Fax: +61 (0)7 3888 1797 to ensuring chicks are not swamped with bacterial and/or viral Email: sales@assetdistributors.com exposure. Resistance and immunity will build over time. BIRDKEEPER.COM.AU | VOL 31 ISSUE 6 | DEC-JAN 2019
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MU TAT IO N M UTTERI N G S AUTHORS AND IMAGES PAUL COURT AND RAY CHAPMAN
‘Possible Dark Factor’ Blue-winged Parrot
A Dark ON THE HORIZON? A BIRD OF A DIFFERENT COLOUR It all started a few years ago when I came across a visibly different bird in a group of young Blue-winged Parrots purchased for an outcross bloodline for my Blue-wing breeding program. The bird’s body colour was a darker green, and the blue section of the wing was a darker blue than the other birds. I contacted the friend from whom I had purchased the birds to discuss this individual. I ended up offering it back to him as I felt bad that he may have given me something he did not even know he had. After a brief discussion, his response was a short but sharp, ‘Keep it, I’m not interested in bloody mutations’. I asked him what he knew of that line of birds and was there anything special to note. I checked the other Blue-wings he kept and there were no other birds that resembled the darker bird. After offering him a swap for some Scarlet-chested Parrots which he wanted, I also acquired the Blue-wing’s parents (which just look like normal wild-type Blue-wings). I have bred these birds each season since I acquired them and they have not reproduced anything other than normallooking Blue-winged Parrots. THE FIRST STEP At that point, my best guess on the unusual features was that it was a ‘possible Dark Factor’. Step number one was to put it to an unrelated wild-type bird and see if it even reproduced. I had it DNA sexed and it was a female, so I paired it to an unrelated male of the same age from
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Blue-winged Parrot females—‘possible Dark Factor’ (above), Normal (below)
my bloodlines. Coming up to breeding season, the pair seemed to be bonding well; there was no bickering or fighting and they regularly fed together and sat next to each other on the perches. I placed a conventional Neophema species nesting box in the aviary (12.5cm sq x 30cm deep) and closely monitored the pair, waiting to see any sign of impending breeding. To my surprise, they seemed to grow less interested in each other over time. They were not aggressive at all; they just didn’t seem interested in breeding.
BIRDKEEPER.COM.AU | VOL 31 ISSUE 6 | DEC-JAN 2019
They began feeding at separate times and even sat together less when they perched. Breeding season number one was a failure, so I broke that pair up at the end of the season and paired the female with a mature proven breeder wild-type male from my lines. When the 2017 season came around, the signs were again promising. This time I put two boxes in to give the pair a choice—a conventional Neophema box and one with a small log entrance fitted to it. It seemed to be a winner, as the young possible Dark
A PA R R OT’ S LI FE AUTHOR LEE STONE
Teach Your Parrot to
STATION For parrots prone to lunging or biting when their cage is being cleaned and/or food/water being changed, a solid station can allow you to do these chores while the bird is stationed out of the way. For birds which like to chase flockmates, fly at visitors or land in unwanted locations, a well-taught station, combined with some duration or a wait, can be used as an alternative to the undesirable behaviour/s. Finally, for multi-bird homes, teaching each bird a unique cue and providing them each with their own station can come in handy for a variety of reasons.
L STONE
C PITCHER
WHAT IS STATIONING? Stationing can be an incredibly useful behaviour to teach your parrot. It is a behaviour in which your parrot learns to target a particular perch, play stand or spot when given a verbal or hand signal. It is very much akin to place or mat training with dogs. There are many benefits to teaching station behaviour. This includes the ability to move your parrot from position to position without the need to physically handle them—great if you have an aviary bird or a parrot which bites. It can work well to get your parrot back into their cage after some time free in the house.
Kokoda, an Eclectus, is stationing during cage cleaning
1 2
Where Do We Start? Pick a station (you can teach multiple stations with unique cues, but start with one first). A good first station could be a coloured perch such as a safety pumice perch. Other station options could be particular play stands, T-stands or your parrot’s sleeping perch.
Depending on the station you have chosen— whether your bird has been exposed to it previously or if you have purchased a new perch—you may need to do some desensitisation/counterconditioning to the station first. To do this, bring the perch within sight, but at a point where your parrot is not behaving with fear or is wary of it. If your parrot is leaning or moving away from the perch, it is too close. Move it away and work at the distance they are comfortable with. When you bring the perch into sight, immediately present your parrot with a highly valued treat. Once you have given your bird the treat, remove the perch from sight again. Repeat this process, gradually decreasing the distance between your bird and the perch until your bird can take a treat with the perch directly below it, without showing any signs of fear.
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Towli, a Black-headed Caique, stationing in his cage
The Blue Waxbills of Africa AUTHOR AND IMAGES PETER ODEKERKEN
THESE MAGNIFICENT LITTLE BLUE BIRDS are found in the drier savannah and thornbush country of southern and central Africa. They belong to the genus Uraeginthus, along with Violet-eared and Purple Grenadier Waxbills. To see these gems in the wild is a great experience because they brighten up the often dry, brown grass or thornbush. I am fortunate to have seen all three blue forms—the Cordon Bleu U. bengalus, the Blue-capped U. cyanocephalus and the Blue-breasted Waxbill U. angolensis in the wild and they are all worthy to be included in any collection of finches. IN THE WILD Habitat and Diet Strangely, the three species can overlap in their distribution and have similar requirements, but I am unaware of hybridisation in the wild. They are found up to about 1800m in elevation and prefer open areas where there is sufficient bush to hide in and breed. The Blue-capped is found in even more arid environments than the other two species. Birds are said to be confiding and will often feed within villages, with, the Bluecapped said to be the shyer species. I have not had a lot of experience with the Blue-capped in the wild, but found them at Naabi Gate, in the Serengeti, feeding on grass seeds near the ablution block, with many tourists using the facilities. They stay in close proximity to a water source and, where farmers have provided tanks or troughs, they have extended their range away from natural water sources. The group feed on grass seeds that have fallen, or land on stems to feed, often pulling them down by their weight onto the ground and placing a foot to hold them in position. They also peck at fallen fruit, and love termites when they can access them. They have been seen to take flying termites, especially just before rain when termites frequently move from an existing termite mound to start a new colony. Blue Waxbills have also been recorded as taking other small insects.
To see these ‘ gems in the wild is a great experience
’
Blue-breasted Waxbill U. angolensis male perched in an Acacia thornbush
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Bl Blue-capped dW Waxbill bill U U. cyanocephalus h l male l foraging in the Serengeti, Tanzania
AVIAN HEALTH WITH DR BOB AUTHOR AND IMAGES DR BOB DONELEY BVSc FANZCVS (Avian Medicine) CMAVA
Diseases We Share with Our Birds FREQUENTLY, AFTER I EXAMINE A BIRD and work it up to reach a diagnosis, the bird’s owners are surprised by the problem. ‘I didn’t know that birds could get that—I thought that was a people disease,’ is the comment I hear all the time. Despite the obvious differences, birds and people share many anatomical and physiological similarities. And when things go wrong, the same problems can develop in both groups—often for the same reasons. In this article, I want to talk about some of these problems, what they look like, and how to prevent them. HEART DISEASE For many years vets believed that cardiovascular disease was rare in birds. What we now realise is that many birds died of infectious disease before they could live long enough to develop heart problems, and we didn’t have the tools needed to diagnose the problem in those birds that did survive the more common diseases. Avian hearts are very similar in their anatomy and function to the human heart. The main difference is the rapid heart rate needed to enable flight. The normal heart rate in a parrot is between 200–300 beats per minute and in Budgies it can be as high as 400–600 bpm. They achieve this by movement of the heart being limited within the body by being anchored to the sternum, and by having very powerful heart muscles. We see a range of things going wrong with birds’ hearts and blood vessels. Some of the problems I have seen include: • Pericardial effusion—fluid accumulating in the pericardial sac (the thin sac surrounding the heart). As fluid increases, the harder it becomes for the heart to beat normally, and it begins to fail. • Dilated cardiomyopathy—for some reason, the muscles of the heart begin to weaken; they become thin and can’t contract normally. • Cardiac arrhythmias—an irregular heart beat due to problems with the electrical conduction system in the heart. • Heart murmurs—these are found when the valves in the heart don’t fully open or close, leading to backflow of the blood between different chambers of the heart. This can be detected by a ‘whooshing’ sound when listening to the heart with a stethoscope. However, a more sinister and increasingly common problem is atherosclerosis. This is a condition of the blood vessels where cholesterol and fatty plaques form on the inner lining of the blood vessels. With time, this becomes calcified. The result is that the lumen of the blood vessels becomes much smaller, making it more difficult to get blood through the vessels to where it is needed. This problem, identical to that seen in people, is due to many years of eating high-fat diets (seed) and restricted ability to exercise. These heart diseases look very similar when first examining a patient. The bird is weak, may have increased respiratory rate and effort (because the bird is having difficulty getting oxygen around the body), and fluid oozes out of the blood vessels into the belly. Birds with atherosclerosis may have seizures or collapse if the blood can’t supply the brain with enough oxygen. Other birds may simply collapse and die unexpectedly. Using X-rays and ultrasound, vets are getting much better at diagnosing these diseases and are often able to extrapolate from human medicine how to treat a bird with heart disease. So don’t be surprised if your avian vet diagnoses your bird with heart disease and outlines a treatment plan that sounds remarkably like something your GP or cardiologist may prescribe. (Except we don’t do heart transplants…yet!)
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Cataracts in a mature-aged Kakariki—probably an age-related change
ARTHRITIS Arthritis (inflamed joints, usually a chronic problem) is commonly diagnosed in older pet birds. Just like people, the condition is more common in middle-aged to old birds, many of which are overweight or even obese. Like heart disease, vets are diagnosing this more commonly now, mainly because birds are living longer. Affected birds are often reluctant to move around much, and might shift their weight from foot to foot. If the wing joints are affected, the wings might droop a little, and the bird is reluctant to fly. Close examination by a vet often reveals swollen, painful joints with limited range of movement. X-rays are needed to confirm the diagnosis, and blood tests are often indicated to rule out underlying problems that may aggravate the condition or complicate its treatment. Many pet owners (not just bird owners) think this is normal— just part of getting old—and don’t think to seek veterinary advice. However, this is a painful, debilitating condition that can be treated (but not cured) quite effectively. Typically, a treatment plan includes painkillers, Omega 3 and 5 fatty acids, weight reduction, gentle amounts of exercise, and better perches in the aviary or cage. If your bird is limping or has a wing droop, it’s in pain. Just because it is not crying and complaining doesn’t mean it is pain-free. Remember, birds in chronic pain don’t vocalise about it because they don’t want to show weakness to a potential predator. DIABETES I am always confident that when I tell a client their bird is diabetic, they will be shocked at the news—‘I never knew birds could get that!’ Diabetes is a condition where the patient (human or avian) has blood sugar (glucose) levels that are persistently well above normal. Blood glucose levels are controlled by a complex interaction between several hormones, especially insulin. Insulin works by pushing glucose into cells, where it is used as an energy source. Diabetes occurs either when there is insufficient insulin being produced by the pancreas, or the body no longer responds to insulin. Birds with diabetes become very hungry and thirsty, pass a tremendous amount of urine frequently, and lose weight.
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