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T H E P R E M I E R P E T & AV I A RY B I R D M AG A Z I N E VO L 3 2 I S S U E 8 • A P R - M AY 2019
Malabars MUTATIONS IN
FINCHES
BLUE & GOLD MACAWS Pet Parrot Behaviour
Bird Health
Emergencies
Quakers Fischer’s Lovebirds Yellowfronted Parrot
CONTENTS april–may 2019 VOLUME 32 ISSUE 8 T H E P R E M I E R P E T & AV I A RY B I R D M AG A Z I N E VO L 3 2 I S S U E 8 • A P R - M AY 2019
Malabars
FINCHES
BLUE & GOLD MACAWS Pet Parrot Behaviour
Bird Health
Emergencies
Quakers Fischer’s Lovebirds Yellowfronted Parrot
COVER IMAGE MALABAR PARROT MALE PETER ODEKERKEN
J WELCH
MUTATIONS IN
FE ATU RES 425
THE MALABAR PARAKEET By Rosemary Low In terms of plumage colour, elegance and fineness of feather, Rosemary says the Malabar Parakeet is hard to beat.
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THE YELLOW-FRONTED PARROT By Dr Daniel Jedlicka Little has been known about this Ethiopian native until recently. Daniel shares his keeping and breeding experiences.
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BREEDER INTERVIEW: MARK CAUDWELL By Jade Welch Mark became involved in aviculture almost by accident when he was offered a free aviary, but he has never looked back. His passion is Rainbow Lorikeets and their mutations. PHOTOGRAPHING THE POHNPEI LORIKEET By Peter Odekerken Peter travels to the island of Pohnpei, in Micronesia and shares the dedication needed to capture bird images in the wild. ARE PARROTS LIKE US? By Dot Schwarz Is anthropomorphism always a bad thing? Seeing the similarities between ourselves and our parrots can deepen our understanding of them and improve our husbandry. SEX-LINKED EDGED IN AGAPORNIS FISCHERI By Wicus Van Der Merwe Wicus uncovers the existence of a sex-linked incomplete dominant mutation in the Fischer’s Lovebird. FLORIDA ALLIGATOR FARM SPREADS ITS WINGS By Vickie Lillo Vickie visits a zoological park dating back 125 years, which has gone from ’gator-wrestling to playing an important part in bird conservation.
REGU L A RS 428
MUTATION MUTTERINGS: QUAKER PARROT UPDATE By Paul Court and Ray Chapman
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BREEDER PERSPECTIVE: BLUE AND GOLD MACAWS By Andrew Rankmore
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FINCH CHARM: REVIEWING REPUTATIONS By David Pace
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THE WISE OWL: OUR GLOBAL FUTURE By Dr Milton Lewis
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Blue Quaker Parrots
CLASSIFIEDS
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HOOKBILL HOBBYIST: NOISY PARROTS—A PROBLEM THAT CAN MULTIPLY By EB Cravens
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WHAT’S NEW • DVD: Eclectus Parrots Reviewed by Sheryll Steele-Boyce
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PET PARROT BEHAVIOUR: MAKING FOOD A MOTIVATOR By Hillary Hankey
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HOBBY HINTS: NEST-CHECKING WITHOUT THE FUSS By Paul & Michelle Court
A PARROT’S LIFE: BRINGING HOME A ‘PRE-LOVED’ PARROT By Rachel Ward
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AVIAN HEALTH WITH DR BOB: EMERGENCIES—TREATMENT AND PREVENTION By Dr Bob Doneley
YOUNG BIRD KEEPER: WHEN THE ALLURE OF AVICULTURE COMPELS ME By Noah Till
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WILD CORNER: THE IMPRINTING PHENOMENON By Dr Claude Lacasse
CONSERVATION: • LPF: Yellow-naped Amazon Numbers Declining Rapidly By Dr David Waugh • WPT: Blue-fronted Amazon— Caatinga Project By Carolyn Pradun
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ABOUT BIRDS: THE AUSTRALIAN WHITE IBIS By Kit Prendergast
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LAST CHIRP: • Northern Avian 2019 Conference • Orange Bird Sale Attracts over 6700 Birds
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P ODEKERKEN
Malabar Parrot pair, male on left—note the turquoise ring below the black neck ring and red mandible compared to the female on the right
THE Malabar PARAKEET AUTHOR AND IMAGES ROSEMARY LOW HOW DO WE JUDGE which are the most beautiful parrots when they are all so wonderful? We might consider plumage colours, elegance and fineness of the feather. One species which excels in all these qualities is the Malabar Blue-winged Parakeet Psittacula columboides. Streamlined in appearance, with an extremely long tail, it is undoubtedly elegant. Its plumage, like that of most Psittacula species, is very fine, giving a mirror-smooth finish. Its colours are subtle, and those of the male are exquisite. DESCRIPTION The male has the loveliest pale turquoise ring below the black neck ring, typical of most males of this genus. His head is grey suffused with turquoise, and his underparts are mainly a soft grey. When he turns to present his back view, it is perhaps even more beautiful. His very long tail is soft turquoise tipped with white, with the underside yellow. In both sexes the upperparts are bluish-green and the feathers margined with a whitish or
yellowish colouring. The female differs in that she lacks the turquoise neck ring, and her head is grey. Adult birds can also be sexually distinguished by the black upper and lower mandible of the female. In the male the upper mandible is red. Body size is slightly smaller than that of the Indian Ringneck Psittacula krameri. Newly fledged young resemble the female, except for the beak colour, which is pale orange, and the iris, which is dark instead of pale yellow. During a recent visit to Loro Parque, Tenerife (where my photographs were taken), I stood for a long time in front of the aviary of the beautiful pair there. The longer you look, the more the beauty of the plumage reveals itself. BREEDING HISTORY In the early years of the 20th century, these parakeets were occasionally imported. The first recorded breeder was the renowned aviculturist the Duke of Bedford. (His title was then Lord Tavistock.) In 1926 his pair
hatched a chick, which was unfortunately killed when the nest box fell to the ground. In 1927 the four eggs laid resulted in four fledged young. Lord Tavistock and his friend Alfred Ezra were perhaps the only breeders until Keston Foreign Bird Farm was successful in 1950. This species was still occasionally imported into Europe in the 1970s when a couple of breeders in the UK reared young. In Europe it has fared better than in the UK. From Denmark, my friend Povl Jorgensen told me: ‘When I started keeping them 20 years ago they were very rare, but they are quite popular now in Europe and, in the hands of very keen breeders, so the number has gone up in recent years. A Dutch breeder is very successful and I believe he has 8–10 breeding pairs. A friend here in the UK has five pairs and several breeders in Denmark have one or two pairs. They are not as easy to breed as Plum-heads P. cyanocephala and more sensitive to cold weather—they can cope but their feet very easily become frostbitten’.
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F I N CH CHARM AUTHOR AND IMAGES DAVID PACE
Once known as difficult to keep and ‘soft’, the Gouldian Finch is now regarded as one of our most free-breeding finch species
Reviewing Reputations
Gouldian and Crimson Finches HAVE YOU EVER WANTED TO KEEP a particular species but, for whatever reason, felt cautious about taking the plunge and obtaining them? It may have been that the high price tag put the species out of your reach, or a feeling that your aviary was not suited to them. Maybe it was concern over the diet and the need to supply copious amounts of livefood; something you read or heard from another breeder? GOULDIAN FINCHES The ‘Heartbreak Bird’ Two species fell into this category for me. The first was the Gouldian Finch. When I entered aviculture in the mid-1970s, everything I read about the Gouldian Finch described it as ‘soft’ and the term ‘heartbreak bird’ was often used in the hobby. At the time, I ignored these descriptions and purchased two legally wildcaught juvenile individuals from a dealer. Until the early 1980s, Gouldian Finches were legally caught for the avicultural trade in the north-west of Australia until finally, and rightly, trapping was banned. My new Gouldian Finches were placed into my one and only south-facing aviary during the month of June in Melbourne. They obviously didn’t last long. From memory, they didn’t last 36 hours! The
critics were correct, I concluded— Gouldians were soft, and yes, I was heartbroken! Looking at it in retrospect, of course, my aviary faced south (the worst possible direction for any finch species), together with the fact that these were recently wild-caught birds from the tropics, and were uncoloured juveniles— anyone today could see this episode would end in tears for both the Gouldian Finches and this aspiring young bird breeder. Nest Inspections Today the Gouldian Finch has a different reputation. It is a free-breeder to the point that many are bred in spite of what we do. One breeder in Geelong, Victoria, posted a photo of a nest with nine growing chicks! I remember the first time I bred Gouldian Finches, I was careful not to go near their nest box until experienced Geelong aviculturist John Carty suggested I take the nest box down and have a look. I was torn. I had never gone near a finch nest for fear of parents abandoning their eggs or chicks—something that was, and still is to this day, the regular mantra of many breeders. I did take the box down. I was delighted to see a nest full of eggs. Many inspections later, the chicks fledged and flourished.
Gouldian Finches certainly tolerate regular nest inspections, and I am discovering many finch species do, including Diamond Firetails. I have bred several hundred Diamond Firetails since the late 1990s and always believed they would not tolerate nest inspections. Recently I had a pair of Diamonds build a nest in their holding aviary. I decided to use a dentist’s mirror to view their nest daily, as I had never dreamed of inspecting the nests of this species, and wanted to document the life cycle within their large dome-shaped nest. Once again there was no ill effect and the parents raised a clutch of four chicks. Many a time it is stated a bird will abandon their nest if disturbed, however, I suspect their instinct to reproduce is far stronger than we give our birds credit for. Sure, nests of young are lost from time to time, but was it really because of an inspection or were there other factors at play such as weather, a break in routine, dietary issue or a night fright? Mind you, I’m not advocating sticking fingers into nests or the over-disturbance of parent birds, but rather a common sense approach to understanding our birds will often breed in spite of what we do.
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THE YELLOWFRONTED PARROT AUTHOR AND IMAGES DR DANIEL JEDLICKA DLICKA
Yellow-fronted Parrot male
IN THE WILD Diet & Behaviour The Yellow-fronted Parrot feeds on different seeds, nuts and fruits, and is sometimes spotted in the maize and local teff cereal fields. It also searches for insects such as ant colonies in the broadened base of Acacia thorns. Mainly in the early morning and in the evening, when it is most active and searching for food, a sharp high whistle is heard. During hot days it keeps quiet and unnoticed in the vegetation. At dusk it hides from potential predators in the densest parts of the high crowns of trees. Yellow-fronted Parrot young female
THE YELLOW-FRONTED PARROT Poicephalus flavifrons is endemic to the Ethiopian highlands and lowlands of central and northern Ethiopia. This area includes the Simien Mountains, a section of which has been designated national park, including Ras Dashan, the highest peak in Ethiopia (4550m). The Yellow-fronted Parrot is found in lowland areas above 300m and up to 3200m in its preferred mountainous regions. It lives in Acacia, Ficus, Hagenia, Podocarpus, Juniperus and introduced Eucalyptus forests. It is usually seen in pairs or small groups. It was originally described in two subspecies—P. f. flavifrons and P. f. auranticeps, but is today considered monotypic. Due to distance, accessibility difficulties of its natural habitat, and the frequent tribal and cross-border clashes in the region, the species is not presently threatened. However, it cannot escape problems of habitat destruction due to deforestation by local populations needing firewood. Until recently very little information was available about this bird. The first and only photo I saw of a Yellow-fronted Parrot for a long time was in the early 2000s, and that was of a stuffed bird exhibited in the Addis Ababa museum. The Yellow-fronted Parrot is a middle-sized parrot of about 28cm in length and weighing 120–205g. The basic colours are two shades of green—the wings and back in darker green, and the lower parts of the body in lighter green. As its name suggests, the front and upper part of the head are a shining yellow.
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IN CAPTIVITIY The care and keeping of these parrots is scarcely mentioned in any available literature, and I have found no published documentation about breeding this bird. Housing I have been keeping Yellow-fronted Parrots since 2010. I keep the birds together in an aviary, measuring 10m x 3m x 2m high. In the breeding period and during winter, every pair has the use of a closed nesting shed measuring 2m x 1m x 2m high, where food and fresh water are served. They also have access to a nesting box. The shelters are heated, with the temperature not dropping below 15ºC. Diet & Behaviour The birds are served a mixture of grains, nuts, fresh fruits and vegetables, with vitamin and mineral (mainly calcium) additives. Occasionally they are given fresh branches, which they love to bite. The birds are most active in the early morning from dawn and in the evening. During this time, they clean and feed themselves, fly within the aviary, communicate noisily and make symbolic clashes. Only rarely do they bathe in a water bowl, but they love to soak completely when rain falls. Pairs spend their days sitting and resting side by side on the perch. During the night they sleep with their heads laid on their back, between their wings. In the mutual aviary, young birds also have an opportunity to find a partner.
Pohnpei Lorikeets visit bananas at any time, with more frequent visits in the late afternoon when the flowers produce greater quantities of nectar
Photographing the Pohnpei Lorikeet AUTHOR AND IMAGES PETER ODEKERKEN
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PET PAR R OT BEH AVI OUR AUTHOR AND IMAGES HILLARY HANKEY
J WELCH
Making FOOD a Motivator
Through primary reinforcers like food, we can build secondary reinforcers, like scratches, talking, bathing, and so on
A QUESTION I GET ASKED MANY TIMES in parrot behaviour consulting sessions and on social media is how to train a parrot with positive reinforcement if it doesn’t care about food treats. How do you start training if you can’t even get the parrot to make a move towards the food or if it keeps dropping the sunflower seeds you offer? While it’s true that we don’t always need food treats for positive reinforcement to work, there are many scenarios in which food treats help jumpstart our progress with our companion animal towards strong secondary reinforcers. The good news is that all of us are, at some point during our day, motivated by food to do something—walk into the kitchen, make a sandwich, or otherwise essentially change what we were doing in order to eat. So it is with our birds. How motivated they are depends on a few things in their learning history and diet composition. So let’s start at square one.
IDENTIFYING ‘TREATS’ The first thing we do is look at what the bird is eating overall and which items it eats first. We call this ‘reading the bowl’. Now, there is a lot we can go into about diet and nutrition requirements, but to keep our focus on training and behaviour, we will stick to the basics. Birds, like the rest of us animals, for the most part favour fat, carbs and sugar. Their base diet is usually pretty high in fibre, and those bits high in the good stuff are the extra good stuff that help them in the breeding and chick-rearing season. Every bird has its preference, but the items that typically get eaten first when offered freely are the nuts, seeds, bananas, and grapes. These are also items that should be fed only in small amounts, if at all. When we find the food items that get eaten first, we remove these from the diet. The idea is not to feed the bird less, but to hold these as the desserts—the incentivisers or training treats. Your parrot does not get these items ‘for free’
Food isn’t always the way to influence better behaviour, but it can be a strong incentive
outside of a training session, in its food bowl, toys, or just for being cute. Doing so will devalue the strength of the treat. For instance, in my case, cake with buttercream frosting is a strong reinforcer. I don’t get it a lot because it’s not a healthy treat. Do a few chores for cake? Sure thing! If I got cake three times a day with no contingencies for it, its value would diminish and, at some point, it would no longer be valuable for me to even get off the couch for that reinforcer. Removing valued food items from your parrot’s diet to use as training treats is important. The composition of the rest of your bird’s diet will also influence its relationship to food. A diet that contains a lot of ‘people food’, which usually means it is high in fats, salts and carbs, can not
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A PA R R OT’ S LI FE AUTHOR RACHEL WARD IMAGES PARROT LIFE
Bringing Home A ‘PRE-LOVED’ PARROT AS MUCH AS WE WANT TO BE THE FOREVER HOME for our parrots, more often than not they will be re-homed many times in their lifetime, no matter how good the owner’s intentions are. Their long lives and the changing nature of ours means that, sadly, they cannot always stay with us on our journeys. This makes re-homing a very common method of acquiring a ‘preloved’ bird. These parrots may be old and have outlived their owners, or they may be young and are re-homed due to changes of circumstances. They may have developed behaviour problems that have been left untreated and become unmanageable for the previous owner. They may have escaped their previous home and their owners cannot be found. What we do know, is that no matter how young or old they are, every parrot has a learning history based on their experiences and associations from their previous homes—what we like to call ‘behavioural baggage’. FIRST CONSIDERATIONS When bringing a re-homed bird into your home, the first thing you need to accept is that even though it is the last thing on your mind, you too may need to re-home it one day. This makes your main training goal to prepare the bird as best you can to make any future transitions less stressful, by reducing any fearful, aggressive or stereotypic behaviours, and teaching new skills to help it cope with change (such as comfort inside a carrier). This begins with a thorough assessment over the first month as you get to know your bird, then working through behavioural issues—sometimes quite advanced ones that may have caused the bird to be re-homed in the first place. Luckily, even the worst behaviour can improve with the right management plan.
A new parrot may not want to interact with you straight away, so give them space and choice
Before you commit to the new parrot, you need to be savvy about what type of behaviour you can accommodate in your home, otherwise there is a high chance it will need to be re-homed again in the future. (For example, a bird that is deathly scared of dogs probably won’t be the right bird for you if you have a pack running around.) Gather as much history as you can on the bird. Find out if it has had any previous health concerns. Learn what phobias it has by asking previous owners and closely monitoring its body language in different scenarios, with different objects and people. Do the same with things that bring it joy. Find out every little bit of information you can, and make sure you meet the bird prior to bringing it home. Some birds and people just do not fit—don’t force it! GETTING TO KNOW EACH OTHER Remember, first impressions count. Create a positive relationship with the bird over a few visits first if possible. A good tip is when you walk into the room or area to meet the parrot for the first time, pretend
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BIRDKEEPER.COM.AU | VOL 32 ISSUE 8 | APR-MAY 2019
to ignore it, no matter how friendly it is. Keep your attention on other things (like chatting to the owner). Have a relaxed posture, keep your shoulders facing away from it, and don’t shield your face with sunglasses or a hat, as the parrot will be assessing your eye position to see whether you are a threat or not. Being a prey species, your new parrot will appreciate having time to size you up and make sure you aren’t a threat, without your direct attention. Once the parrot has gone back to normal relaxed activities, or has stopped trying to get your attention, you can approach it. Many keen parrot enthusiasts make the fatal mistake of approaching the cage straight away, fronting up to a bird they don’t know and saying ‘Hi!’ loudly. Imagine how this would feel to a small creature with limited space to move away from a perceived threat! You can create a lasting impression with a parrot just from the way you interact with them that very first time, so don’t rush it. If it’s a poor impression, it can take some time to modify. Once the parrot is relatively comfortable
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SF Edged male (left) and Edged female Fischer’s Lovebirds
Sex-linked Edged Agapornis fischeri
I STARTED BREEDING THE AGAPORNIS FISCHERI Edged mutation in 2015. I acquired what I was told to be a Double Factor Dominant Edged (DF Edged) female for this purpose. At the time, and up to now, it was the only recognised Edged mutation in the White Eye-ring group of Agapornis. (The mode of inheritance is autosomal incomplete dominant.) It was a Blue series bird and because it was a double factor (DF), it was nearly white in appearance. Since it was a DF bird and an autosomal incomplete dominant mutation, one would expect that all the offspring would visually show the Edged mutation, even when paired with a non-edged partner. This is in line with existing literature on this mutation. I initially paired this female with a Green/Turquoise male. The first nest produced results exactly as expected—all three chicks were single factor (SF) Edged. All three were sexed as males, which was nothing strange. The second clutch was four chicks, of which only one was an Edged. When I made inquiries, I was told that females sometimes do not show the Edged mutation clearly. This seemed to make sense when the only male in this nest was also the only Edged, while the three females displayed no sign of this mutation. I was, however, not totally convinced. Why would some females not show the Edged mutation while others did, and would they transfer the edged gene even if they do not clearly display the mutation? Subsequent breeding results of this female from 2015–2018 confirmed the same breeding results without exception. None of the female offspring showed the Edged mutation, while all of the male offspring were SF Edged. The total number of chicks sexed was 39, of which 22 were SF Edged males and 17 were non-edged females.
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AUTHOR AND IMAGES WICUS VAN DER MERWE
The original supposed ‘DF’ Dominant Edged Fischer’s Lovebird female
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