Growing Up With Shanghai- Buzhen | 与沪成长- 堡镇

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Growing Up With Shanghai 与沪成长 Buzhen 堡镇


Recorded and Edited by Terence LLoren Photos by Shen Yi Shanghainese Transcription by Jenny Zhang English Translation by Terence LLoren Growing Up With Shanghai- Buzhen, No. 20, July 2018. Published by BIVOUAC RECORDING. This book (contents, images, and design) is Copyright 2018 Bivouac Recording and may not be reproduced without permission. The audio is released under the Creative Commons License BY-NC-ND and is free to download and share as long as they are: credited to 'Bivouac Recording', are for non-commercial use, and must be under the same license if used in your work. Bivouac Recording still retains the copyright of these recordings. 'Growing Up With Shanghai' is a Bivouac Recording project.

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Guanyin Bhuddist Monastary 观音庵

Buzhen Bus Terminus 堡镇汽车站

info@bivouacrecording.com http://www.bivouacrecording.com 录音师,编辑:罗天瑞 摄影师:沈祎 吴语译音:张依群 英文翻译:罗天瑞 与 沪 成 长 — 堡 镇 ,2018 年 7 月 。BIVOUAC RECORDING 出版。本刊物为双月刊。该书版权属于。未 经 许 可 不 得 翻 印 。 该 音 频 在 Creative Commons License BY–NC–ND 下发布。 该音频均可免费下载与分享,但 必须符合以下条件:标明版权属于 ‘Bivouac Recording’ 所有;非商业性用途;不进行任意修改。Bivouac Recording 仍保留此作品的版权。与沪成长是 Bivouac Recording 的一 个项目。在中国上海记录设计。

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Buzhen Ferry Terminal 堡镇港

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Skewer Restaurant 正大街 65 号

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Buzhen Guangming Community Sports Center 崇明县堡镇光明社区 居民委员会

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Shao Nian Zhi Jia Children's Center 少年之家 堡镇南路 328 号

Buzhen Government Building 堡镇镇政府

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关于与沪成长

About GUWS

“ 与沪成长 ” 是一系列与上海年轻 人一起完成的 “ 声音漫步之旅 ”。 他们生于 80 和 90 年代,这些语音不 仅记载了他们对成长之地的亲切回忆 也从讲述者的角度对地理地点讲行过 去和现在的对比。同时讲述者会通过 本身的成长经历也反映了过去 30 年 里上海的讲步与发展。这些实地录音 由讲述人操沪语完成同时录音也捕捉 纪录到当日真实的环境声音供世界各 地的听者感同身受。

“Growing Up With Shanghai” is a series of soundwalks with young Shanghainese who were born and raised during the rapid modernization of their city in the 1980s and 1990s. These recordings capture not only their most intimate memories as they grew up, but, when contrasted with the present state of each location, also reveal the progress and growth Shanghai has undergone in the past 30 years. The current sounds of Shanghai, including that of the Shanghainese dialect, create a comprehensive present-day audio document that future generations can experience.


Buzhen

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堡镇

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简介

Introduction

本书为《与沪成长 — 堡镇》语音文 档的辅助文本。书中记录语音文档中 对话译音,对照英文翻译,地点照片 以及与语音文档相符的路线图。

This book is a supplement to the Growing Up With Shanghai- Buzhen audio track. It contains dialog transcripts and translations, area photographs, and a route map.

用触屏手机下载音频,请扫描左边的 二维码。如已用触屏手机阅读本文, Please download the audio for this 请点击二维码继续阅读全文。 walk by using your mobile device to scan the QR codes on the left. If you are *( 手 机 版 使 用 Adobe Acrobat 阅 读 already using a mobile device to read 器) this, click the QR codes to follow the links. 本 书 每 页 文 字 顺 序:沪 语 译 音 (左);普通话翻译(中 );因为翻译 * (Use Adobe Acrobat reader for (右) mobile.) 如有兴趣与我们互动,请将您对这段 路线上的任何感想,照片通过扫描左 边二维码快捷上传到我们的官方微博 和脸书页。

The three transcriptions / translations in this book follow this format on each page with text: Shanghainese transcription (left column); Putonghua translation (center column); English translation (right column). As you walk, feel free to upload your thoughts and images onto the project pages on Facebook or Weibo by scanning the corresponding QR codes on the left. 2


Buzhen 时间:2013 年 7 月 28 日上午 11:30

时间:2013 年 7 月 28 日上午 11:30

Recorded July 28, 2013 at 11:30.

起点:在轮渡站南边是一条服务路。 起点:在轮渡站南边是一条服务路。 Starting point: Service road just south 把单车停在这里从防波堤开始走。 把单车停在这里从防波堤开始走。 of the Ferry terminal. Leave bike nearby and begin at the seawall. [0:14] 我 现 在 勒 辣 嗰 位 置 是 堡 镇 码 [0:14] 我现在在的位置是堡镇码头, 头,现在看起来已经相当萧条了。桥 现在看起来已经相当萧条了。桥和隧 [0:14] I am now at the Buzhen dock. It 畀隧道开通后,基本上呒没人,现在 道开通后,基本上没有人,现在很少 looks a bit depressing. After the new 老少有人勒箇搭乘船了。基本上侪是 有人在这里乘船了。基本上都是当地 bridge and tunnel were built, there’s 当地到陈家镇去(坐船了)。但是码 到陈家镇去(坐船了)。但是码头这 no more people here. Nowadays, very 头箇嗰地方还是能唤起阿拉相当多额 个地方还是能唤起我们相当多的回忆 few people take the ferry. Only locals 嗰回忆额嗰。老早,包括像阿拉生勒 的。过去,包括像我们出生在,长在 or people from Chenjia Town take the 辣箇搭,长勒辣崇明岛上直到 20 岁 崇明岛上直到 20 岁离开崇明岛去上 ferry. This place also brings back many 离开崇明岛去上大学,勒辣额嗰 20 大 学 , 在 过 去 的 20 年 里 , 基 本 上 memories. Passing by reminds me of 年里向,基本上 “ 码头 ”,“ 码 “ 码头 ”,“ 码头 ” 这两个字在 when I was born here, growing up 头 ” 箇两额嗰字勒辣我生活中一直 生活中一直比较,比较,分量还是比 here on Chongming Dao until I left 分量还是比较重额嗰(我觉着)。当 较重的(我感到)。当小时候,在我 when I was 20. Within those 20 years, 小辰光,勒辣我老小老小额嗰辰光, 很小很小的时候,与很多大孩子在一 this ‘ 码 头 ’, these two characters have 畀老多大小人勒辣一道孛相,伊拉当 起玩,他们当时告诉我要带我去码头 always had a special meaning in my 时告诉我要带我去码头上去孛相。箇 上去玩。这时候我一听,要带我去码 life. When I was a child, when I was 辰光我一听,要带我去码头孛相,箇 头玩,这可是一件大事了。不管怎么 really young, I used to play with some 倒到是一桩大事体了。弗管哪能讲, 说,“ 码头 ” 是一个不知怎么相当 of the older kids. They said that they “ 码头 ” 是一额个弗晓得哪能相当 于有种神秘感的一个地方。这里人们 wanted to take me to the dock to play. 于有种神秘感额嗰一额嗰地方。箇搭 说在这里会有野餐,对伐?大人么会 When I first heard that they wanted to 人讲勒辣箇搭会有野餐,对伐?大人 在这里谈恋爱。作为一个小孩,作为 bring me to the dock to play, it was a 么会勒辣箇搭谈恋爱。作为一额个小 一个七八岁,八九岁的小孩来说,这 big deal. For some reason, ‘ 码 头 ’makes 人,作为一额个七八岁,八九岁额嗰 是相当神秘的一样东西。 you think of a magical place. The 小人来讲,箇搭是相当神秘额嗰一样 locals would have picnics here and 物事。 [ 向南走到系船柱子向左转到两边都 adults would come here on dates. As a 是水洼的小土路上。 ] kid, as a seven or eight years old, nine [ 向南走到系船柱子向左转到两边都 year old kid would say, this place is 3


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Buzhen 是水洼的小土路上。]

[2:01] 倷么,我跑过去 烂泥稻草,赤

[2:01] 那么,我跑过去,烂泥脚。原 来,原来这块地方下面有很多的 “ 江芦 ” 棚,现在已经少了很多。 很久以前,我记得基本上这些树全都 没有的,全是给所有 “ 江芦 ” 铺满 的,而且 “ 江芦 ” 长了很高,现在 我看这些 “ 江芦 ” 已经全拔光了。 那么,很久以前,这些坝也没有的, 坝没有的,直接是空的,到了江人直 接跳下去,跑到海滩上,我记得小时 候。直接是海滩,下面的堤坝也没有 的(这些时候),跑到海滩上,我看 见很多人端着锅子野餐,这大概是八 几年的事情(我估计),我这时候大 概 5-6 岁。有时候我心血来潮也搞一 个坏锅子,家里拿一个坏锅子,烧不 来就买点方便面,跑到江边,水没有 就长江里舀一碗水,烧开水,把方便 面朝里一扔也开始烧了。这些时候还 是比较开心的。跑到这里,让我看这 里我还是烧过的,我估计游人也会拿 点啥东西烧烧弄弄,不过现在已经冷 清很多。

脚。原来箇块地方下面有交交关关多 嗰 “ 江芦 ” 棚,现在箇搭已经少了 交交关关。老早,我记得基本上箇些 树侪呒没嗰,侪是畀所有 “ 江芦 ” 铺满额嗰,而且 “ 江芦 ” 长了交交 关关高,现在呢我看箇些 “ 江芦 ” 已经侪拔光了。倷么,原来老早,箇 些坝也呒没嗰,坝呒没嗰,直接是空 嗰,到了江人直接跳下去,跑到海滩 上,我记得小辰光。直接是海滩,下 面嗰堤坝也呒没嗰(箇些辰光),跑 到海滩上,我看见交关人端勒镬子野 餐,箇大概是八几年嗰事体(我估 计),我箇辰光大概 5-6 岁。有辰光 我心血来潮也弄只坏镬子,屋里向拿 只坏镬子,烧弗来就买点方便面,到 江边,水呒没就长江里舀一碗水,烧 开水 方便面朝里一掼也开始烧了。 箇些辰光还是比较开心额嗰。跑到箇 滩,让我看箇滩我还是烧过额嗰,我 估计有人也会拿点啥烧烧弄弄,弗过 现在箇搭已经冷清交交关关。 还有一个印象比较深的,与码头有关 的就是基本每年,我们学校里每年的 还有一额个印象比较深嗰畀码头搭界 寒暑假下来,总归会听见有人淹死, 嗰就是基本每年,阿拉学堂里向每年 尤其当然主要是暑假,天热的时候主 嗰寒暑假下来,总归会听见有人会淹 要是放暑假总归有人到长江里游泳, 死嗰,尤其当然主要是暑假,天热嗰 而且每年总归听见有人会淹死,淹 辰光主要是放暑假总归有人到长江里 死。。。我有一个好朋友对我说,他 5

pretty magical. [Walk south to the bollards and turn left on the dirt road between the pools of water.]

[2:01] Before, before this part had a lot

of river reeds. Now, there are barely any left. A long time ago, I remember these trees were not there. Everywhere was full of reeds and they grew very tall. Now, I see that all the reeds have been removed. Also, this embankment wasn’t here before. It was just open and people could just jump down right on the shore below. I remember when I was a kid, the shore was right up to the edge here. I think it was about 1989, when I was 5 or 6 years old. Sometimes I would get a broken pot, a broken pot, from home. I would cook instant noodles, run down by the river scoop up a bowl of water, boil it and cook the noodles. I was so happy. Coming here now, I see the spot where I used to cook my noodles. I think other people would also come to cook and hang out here but nowadays it’s pretty quiet. Another memory I have about the ‘ 码


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Buzhen 游泳,而且每年总归听讲有人会淹 死,淹死。。。我有一嗰好朋友对我 讲勒辣箇搭游过泳额嗰,勒辣箇石墩 下面,跳下去游泳。虽然我小辰光也 蛮喜欢游泳,弗过我还呒没搿胆量到 箇长江里游,呵。。。箇只胆量还是 呒没。

[4:07] 来箇搭,箇条路可以防止我车

在这里游过泳的,在这石墩下面,跳 下去游泳。虽然我小时候也蛮喜欢游 泳,不过我还没有这胆量到这长江里 游,呵。。。这个胆量还是没有。

[4:07] 来这里,这条路可以防止我车 子跑过去,弄了一只石墩,原来是没 有的,而且这条路如果你沿着一直 跑,脚踏车一直踏或者一直跑的话, 一直跑沿着崇明岛的沿岸一直可以跑 到陈家镇这里。这个地方现在讲起来 是比较萧条,比较萧条。。。

子跑过去,弄了一只石墩,原来是呒 没嗰,而且箇条路如果侬沿着一直 跑,脚踏车一直踏或者一直跑嗰话, 一直跑 沿着崇明岛嗰沿岸一直可以 跑到陈家镇箇搭。箇嗰地方现在讲起 来是比较萧条,比较萧条。。。 [ 在小土路上两边都是小池塘的中间 点停。] [ 在小土路上两边都是小池塘的中间 点停。] 还有这条堤坝路,堤坝路小时候印象 相当深。每趟主要来沿着堤坝一直 还有箇条堤坝路,堤坝路小辰光印象 跑,跑到岸上的地方,胆子也蛮大, 相当深。每趟主要来沿着堤坝一直 有时一个人跑,越是往前面跑,越是 跑,跑到岸上嗰地方,胆子也蛮大, 感觉到海水长江水的汹涌的时候,心 有辰光一个人跑,越是望前头里跑, 里相当害怕的,相当害怕。。。而且 越是感觉到海水长江水额嗰汹涌嗰辰 这时的父母一直会吓唬我。我有一次 光,心里相当吓嗰,相当吓。。。而 到码头上,涨潮时逃也来不及的,一 且箇辰光我嗰爷娘一直会吓唬我。我 听见海水来吓是吓的来,心里面吓得 有一趟到码头上,涨潮时逃也来弗及 来,不过感觉也蛮刺激,相当刺激。 嗰,一听见海水来吓是吓来,心里向 现在,现在,现在这种感觉已经没有 吓得来,弗过觉着也蛮刺激,相当刺 了,可能环境没有变化,只不过是我 激。现在呢,现在呢,现在呢箇种感 们人变了(我感觉),现在看看,现 觉已经呒没了,可能环境呒没变化, 在看江的感觉,与小时候感受的感觉 7

头 ’ is that every year during our schools summer and winter vacation, you would always hear of people drowning, especially during summer vacation. When its hot during summer vacation, people would just come to the river to swim. Every year you would hear about people drowning. Drowning... I had a friend that told me that he would swim here and at this stone wall he would jump in. Although I was a fearless swimmer as a kid, I never had the guts to swim in the ‘ 长 江 ’. Ah, even today I don’t have the courage to.

[4:07] Here, the road is blocked to not

let cars through. They put stones here. They weren’t there before. Also, this road if you follow it, if you pedal or go along it, if you go just follow the coast here, you would reach Chenjia Town. This place is really desolate now. Really desolate. [Stop in the middle of the dirt road between two ponds.] This dirt road, this dirt road brings back memories. I would run along these dirt dams here to the river wall


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Buzhen 只弗过是阿拉人变了(我觉着),现 在呢看看,现在呢看江额嗰感觉畀小 辰光感受嗰 感觉完全两样了,因为 可能看得多了,环境呒没啥大嗰变 化,只弗过是人嗰体会有交关物事变 化了。 [ 回到起始点,走向轮渡站。]

[5:29] 箇面 ……, 箇面有两只小嗰鱼 塘,小嗰鱼塘呢,像阿拉初中嗰辰 光,因为我有一个好朋友就蹲勒辣码 头箇搭,那我额嗰 搿嗰朋友呢,畀 阿拉屋里向初中几嗰同学相比呢,伊 拉屋里向条件相当好,因为爸爸是当 厂长嗰嘛。搿额嗰辰光,阿拉总归, 一到有空嗰辰光,如果阿拉孛相,一 般来讲侪到伊拉屋里向(去孛相), 因为伊拉屋里向花头精透。挨嗰辰 光,阿拉还呒没装电话机,伊拉屋向 已经有一部电话机了。阿拉就到伊屋 里向电话机 打打孛相孛相。我觉着 箇也是小辰光相当有乐趣嗰事了,弄 了支气枪打打,对伐?倷么伊屋里向 还有录像机额嗰,录像机,录像看 看。搿嗰辰光,搿嗰辰光也算是高档 娱乐了,绝对高档娱乐,自己屋里向 绝对呒没嗰。孛相好以后(从伊拉屋 里向)出来,出来以后,箇嗰小鱼塘 里向,阿拉大家一道汏冷水浴、游 泳。箇嗰印象还是比较深嗰,汏冷水 9

完全两样了,因为可能看得多了,环 there. Your tummy would be so full 境没有什么大的变化,只不过是人的 (from eating). Sometimes you would 体会有许多东西变化了。 run towards the river and every step forward, would remind you more and [ 回到起始点,走向轮渡站。] more of the rushing waters of the river below. It would feel pretty scary, [5:29] 这里 ……, 这里有两只小的鱼 pretty scary. My parents would try to 塘,小的鱼塘呢,像我们初中的时 scare me about going into the water. 候,因为我有一个好朋友就住在码头 One time I was on the ‘matou’. It was 这里,那我的那个朋友呢,和我们家 high tide and the waters were so 里初中几个同学相比呢,他家里条件 powerful I got caught in the current. I 相当好,因为爸爸是当厂长的嘛。那 felt so scared. I still remember the 个时候,我们总归,一到有的空的时 sound of the water around me. Now, 候,如果我们玩,一般来说都到他家 now I think about it it’s very exciting (去玩),因为他家花头精透。那个时 but scary. It feels like maybe our 候,我们还没有装电话机,他家已经 surroundings never changed, only we 有一个电话机了。我们就到他家,电 did. Now when I look at the river, the 话机打打玩玩。我觉得这也是小时候 feeling is so different from before. 相当有乐趣的事了,弄了支气枪打 Maybe because if you really look, the 打,对吗?那么他家还有录像机的, surroundings haven’t changed much, 录像机,录像看看。那个时候,那个 only we have grown to be so different. 时候也算是高档娱乐了,绝对高档娱 乐,自己家可是没有的。玩好以后 [Go back to where you started. Walk (从他家里)出来,出来以后,这个 back to where you left your bike, 小鱼塘里面,这个鱼塘里,我们大家 towards the Ferry terminal.] 一起洗冷水浴、游泳。这个印象还是 比较深的,洗冷水浴时边上全是牛。 [5:29] Over here, over here are two 这个水现在看上去还是蛮清爽的,现 small fish ponds. When I was in Junior 在不知道里面还养鱼吗,小时候是鱼 High I had a friend that lived close to 塘。玩好水么,去踢踢足球,足球我 here. Compared to all of us his was the 们也欢喜的,踢好球了嘛 到他家去 best because his father was the


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堡镇 浴辰光边上侪全是牛。箇嗰水现在看 上去还是蛮清爽嗰,现在弗晓得里面 还养鱼伐,小辰光是鱼塘。孛相好水 么,去踢踢足球,足球阿拉也欢喜 嗰,踢好球了么到伊屋里向去冲个 凉,也算是经常孛相嗰一种娱乐方 式。崇明岛上其实也呒没啥可以孛 相。

[7:00] 让 我 带 侬 到 码 头 搿 面 去 看一

看。

码头老早是热闹了交交关关,码头上 么,阿拉搿嗰辰光,流氓作风 也比 较多,打相打啦,基本上侪发生勒辣 码头上,现在呢 搿嗰那真叫 “ 三十 年河东,三十年河西 ”,搿嗰陈家 镇桥畀隧道一造好后,箇样从现在开 始肯定是开始落魄了。老里八早前, 堡镇也算是仅次于南门额嗰崇明额嗰 第二要镇啊!基本上,基本上陈家镇 挨面嗰人一直到堡镇箇段路里到上海 啥 嗰 , 肯 定 要 ,( 肯 定 是 乘 船 到 堡 镇),肯定到堡镇来乘船嗰,箇搭肯 定嗰,呒么其它选择嗰。现在好了, 箇么一来,车子也少了,原来黑车箇 搭也是蛮多额嗰,现在也呒没啥黑车 了。唯一呒没变嗰,也就箇搭电厂两 嗰烟囱了。饭店也基本上侪关光了, 人毛全无。我讲,以后,下一次箇搭 可以弄一嗰游艇码头啥嗰,倒蛮好

冲个凉,也算是经常玩的一种娱乐方 director of the local factory. At that 式。崇明岛上其实也没什么可以玩。 time, when we all had free time, we would always come here to play [7:00] 让 我 带 你 到 码 头 那 里 去 看一 because his family was pretty well off. 看。 At that time most of us didn’t have telephones but his house did so 码头以前是很热闹的,码头上嘛,我 sometimes we would just go over to 们那个时候,流氓作风,打架啦,基 his house and play with the telephone. 本上都发生在码头上。现在,现在那 I think another thing that was fun 真 叫 “ 三 十 年 河 东 , 三 十 年 河 西 when we were young was to take ”,那个陈家镇桥和隧道一造好后, branches and make them into guns, 这样从现在开始肯定是开始落魄了。 right? Another thing he had was a 很久以前,堡镇也算是仅次于南门的 video recorder. At that time owning 崇明的第二要镇啊!基本上,基本上 these things was considered a real 陈家镇那里的人一直到堡镇这段路里 luxury. I didn’t have anything like that 到上海什么的,肯定要,(肯定是乘 at my house. After we finished playing 船到堡镇),肯定到堡镇来乘船的, at his house we would go outside and 这是肯定的,没有其他选择的。现在 play in the fish ponds here. We would 好了,这样一来,车子也少了,原来 all have a cold bath here and swim. I 黑车这里也是很多的,现在也没有什 remember this quite clearly. When we 么黑车了。唯一不变的,也就这里电 would take a dip here, there would be 厂两个烟囱了。饭店也基本上都关光 cows all around here too. Even now 了,人毛全无。我说,以后,下一次 the water here looks very cool and 这里可以弄一个游艇码头什么的,倒 refreshing. I don’t know if there are 挺好的。你看,当天好的时候,这里 fish anymore in the ponds. When we 可以看得到上海的。像我原来在高中 were younger, after we played in the 里 的 时 候 , 我 记 得 有 时 候 , 晴 天 , pool we would kick the ball around. (视线)清爽的时候可以望到金茂大 We also liked playing football. After 厦和东方明珠,就在码头上,今天也 we played football we would go back 蛮清爽的,看得出,有一点影子,对 to his house and chill. This was always 吗?我记得那个时候,小时候,两艘 how we had fun. Nowadays, there’s 12


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堡镇 嗰。侬看,当天气好嗰辰光,箇搭可 以看得到上海嗰。像我原来勒辣高中 里嗰辰光,我记得有辰光,晴天, (视线)清爽嗰辰光可以望到金茂大 厦和东方明珠,就勒辣码头上,今朝 也蛮清爽额嗰,看得出,有一点影 子,对伐?我记得搿嗰辰光,小辰 光,两艘船就停勒辣箇搭,现在好 了,安静得一塌糊涂了。箇样蛮好, 我觉着箇样也蛮好额嗰,有辰光阿拉 也需要安静,太吃力了。 [ 上单车,向东沿 “ 埠镇 ” 南路骑 行。]

[9:40] 长期生活勒辣上海么,难般 到崇明来,跑过来,过来看看,箇嗰 天气我觉着还是,箇嗰气候,温度, 尤其像今朝箇样嗰天气,我觉着还是 相当舒服额的。 脚踏车,哎,脚踏车。已经有四年呒 没踏脚踏车了,四年呒没踏脚踏车 了。现在基本上侪淘汰了。 还有一趟,我印象比较深额嗰,我就 记得,小辰光,阿拉屋里向,箇搭小 额交交关关辰光了,还是勒辣我小学 额嗰辰光,七八岁额嗰样子,阿拉一 家门,爸爸,妈妈,姐姐,拿了一只 照相机来码头取景拍照,我记得,箇

船就停在这里,现在好了,安静得一 not many places to play. 塌糊涂了。这样挺好,我觉得这样也 蛮好的,有时候我们也需要安静,太 [7:00] Let me take you to the old dock 累了。 to take a look. [ 上单车,向东沿 “ 埠镇 ” 南路骑 The dock before was so busy. Back 行。] then, there would always be fights there. Now… now you can say “30 [9:40] 长期生活在上海么,偶尔到 years east of the river, 30 years west of 崇明来,跑过来,过来看看,这个天 the river” 1 . The completion of the 气我觉得还是,这个气候,温度,尤 Chenjia town’s bridge and tunnel 其像今天这样的天气,我觉得还是相 certainly began the decline of this area. 当舒服的。 Before this, Buzhen was only second to Nanmen City 2 ! Basically, before, the 脚踏车,哎,脚踏车。已经有四年没 people of Chenjia town would come to 有骑脚踏车了,四年没有骑脚踏车 Buzhen to travel to Shanghai and 了。现在基本上都淘汰了。 elsewhere. They had to come to Buzhen to get on the ferry because 还有一次,我印象比较深的,我就记 there was no other choice. Nowadays, 得,小时候,我们家里,这是我很小 it’s good too. There are less cars. 的时候了,还是在我小学的时候,七 Before, there were so many ‘black’ cars 3 . 八岁的样子,我们一家子,爸爸,妈 Now there are none. One thing that 妈,姐姐,拿了一个照相机来码头取 hasn’t changed are the two chimneys 景拍照,我记得,这个我记得印象也 of the power plant. The restaurants 是比较深的。拍照,拍照,我小时候 have all closed “ren mao quan wu” 4 . I 记得一开始拍得蛮开心的,后来拍着 said, afterwards, that this place could 拍着,我累了,后来人就不舒服了, be a yacht dock. That would be great. 后来我就哭了。这个印象我还是相当 Look, if the weather's good like today, 深的。小时候拍照,拍照,你别说也 you can see Shanghai from here. I 是蛮有情调的事,那个时候,弄了很 remember when I was in high school, 多次。 on a clear summer’s day, I could see the 14


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堡镇 嗰我记得印象也是比较深嗰。拍照, 拍照,我小辰光记得一开始拍得蛮开 心嗰,后来拍着拍着,我吃力了,后 来人就弗舒服了,后来我就哭了。箇 嗰印象我还是相当深的。小辰光拍 照,拍照,侬讲起来也是蛮有情调嗰 事,搿嗰辰光,弄了老多趟。

[11:16] 码头边上,箇额嗰是公交车终

点站。我估计,当我记事体开始,到 现在,我估计我还呒没生就有箇嗰站 头。印象当中当时人小了交交关关, 箇着站头。小辰光,小辰光箇站头对 我来讲,就像,相当于啥,就像阿拉 现在去浦东机场,跑进去额嗰感觉, 大得像啥一样,浦东机场嗰感觉。。 现在呢阿拉看看,看看像啥?坏棚棚 一只。但是我觉着箇样也蛮好,还是 蛮有历史意义额嗰,起码,到现在依 旧保留勒辣箇搭。现在弗晓得以后会 弗会关脱吗?随着乘船嗰人越来越 少,弗晓得以后会弗会关脱。

[12:24] 正好,箇搭有嗰饭店叫向明

饭店,箇嗰饭店是原来老里八早我一 嗰好朋友,高中同学伊爷娘开嗰, 伊,我 那箇好朋友基本上呢是,初 中三年和高中三年基本侪生活勒辣码 头上。箇嗰向明饭店,现在好像,现 在呢我看箇地方关门了。我反正,箇 小辰光,就是讲,从伊嘴巴里,听到

[11:16] 码头边上,这个是公交车终点 站。这个公交车终点站,我估计,当 我记事起开始,到现在,我估计我没 出生就有这个站头。印象当中,当时 人很小,所以印象当中记得很多,这 个站头。小时候,小时候这个站头对 我来说,就像,相当于什么,就像你 们现在浦东机场,跑进去的感觉,大 得像什么一样,浦东机场的感觉。。 现在你们看看,看看像什么?坏棚棚 一只。但是我觉得这样也蛮好,还是 蛮有历史意义的,起码,到现在仍然 保留在这里。现在不知道以后会不会 关掉吗。随着乘船的人越来越少,不 知道以后会不会关掉。 [12:24] 正好,这里有个饭店叫向明

饭店,这个饭店是原来很久我一个好 朋友,高中同学他的父母开的,他, 我那好朋友基本上呢是,初中三年和 高中三年基本都生活在码头上。这个 向明饭店,现在,现在好像,现在我 看这个地方关门了。我反正,这小时 候,就是说,从他嘴巴里,听到的, 就是说,有一点基本可以代表崇明的 码头有多少繁荣,人流量多少大呢。 我记得他有一次在高中里和我说,他 说,他初中的时候,有时候一天的营 业额,好的时候可能要达到利润也不 知道是营业额要达到一千元。他说, 他那个时候,抽屉里钞票自己反正自

Jin Mao tower and the Pearl Tower. Today is pretty clear, if you look, you can see a little bit of the shadow of it, right? I remember before when I was young, there were two boats that would dock here. Now, there’s a calm silence. This is also great. I think that it has also changed for the better. Sometimes we all need some quiet, it’s so tiring otherwise. [Get on bicycle. Ride east along Buzhen Nan Lu.]

[9:40] Living in Shanghai and occasionally coming to Chongming, you see? The weather, the climate, the temperature, especially today’s weather. I think it is quite comfortable. Bicycles, ah, bicycles. It has been already 4 years since I have ridden a bicycle. Four years I haven’t ridden a bicycle. Nowadays I don't use them. I have another deep memory. I remember when I was young, my family, when I was really young, in primary school, about 7-8 years old. My family: my father, mother, and older 16


Buzhen 额嗰,就是讲,有一点基本可以代表 崇明嗰码头有多少繁荣,人流量多少 大呢。我记得伊有一次勒辣高中里畀 和我讲,伊讲,伊初中额嗰辰光,有 辰光一天嗰营业额,好嗰辰光可能要 达到利润也弗晓得是营业额嗰要达到 一千元。伊讲,伊搿嗰辰光,抽屉里 钞票自己反正自己想到拿多少就拿多 少,随便就拿一些钞票,我记得那 时。可想而知,搿个辰光箇嗰码头有 多少,多少繁华啊!人流动量多少 高,箇嗰辰光。

己想到拿多少就拿多少,随便就拿一 些钱,我记得那时。可想而知,那个 时候这个码头有多少,多少繁华啊! 人的流动量多少高,那个时候。 在你的左手边,你可以看到现在这 里,我后来听见说,现在要造一座庙 啊,造一座庙。很久以前,这是叫燎 原电器厂,是我的爸爸上班的地方。 我的爸爸,他在电镀厂也不知道是电 器厂上的班,那个时候我记得他做过 办公室主任的。我小时候反正,放了 学,就从门岗上进去。有时候,门岗 还要留住我,问我去找谁?我说找我 爸爸,(他又会问)我的爸爸是谁, 然后我就把爸爸的名字报给他,然后 噔噔噔跑到办公室,找我的爸爸。现 在好了,现在崇明的经济都没有了, 现在的厂房都被外国人承包掉了,后 来基本上关光了,现在都造庙了你看 到伐?我看,庙比那种企业单位效益 要好。对伐?烧烧香,拜拜香,我看 那种和尚还养得胖的来,工资比那种 大学生高一点。怪类,怪胎,畸形社 会。

sister, took a family photo at the dock. This is my deepest memory. Picture, picture, I remember I was very happy that day. We took many pictures. After a while, I was feeling tired and uncomfortable and started to cry. Pictures, pictures. You wouldn’t believe it but it was actually a lot of fun. We really took a lot of photos.

[11:16] Next to the dock, there is a bus terminus. This bus terminus, I think, from the beginning of my memory 勒辣侬嗰左手边,侬可以看到现在勒 until now, was around since before I 箇搭,我后来听见讲,现在要造一座 was born. My impressions, of it now is 庙啊,造一座庙。老里八早,箇搭叫 that there are not so many people so I 燎原电器厂,是我嗰爸爸上班嗰地 have many memories about it, this 方。我爸爸,伊勒辣电镀厂也弗晓得 terminus. When I was young I felt that 是电器厂上嗰班,搿嗰辰光我记得伊 this terminus was like Pudong Airport. 做过办公室主任嗰。我小辰光反正, That feeling of vastness when you 放了学,就从门岗上进去。有辰光, walk into Pudong Airport. Now when 门岗还要拦老我,问我去寻啥人?我 you look at it, what do you see? A 讲寻寻阿拉爸爸,(伊又会问)侬嗰 broken shanty. I think that the change 爸爸是啥人?然后我就把爸爸名字报 is also good, it still holds the history of 畀伊,然后噔噔噔跑到办公室,寻阿 this place. Yes, at least it still has that. 拉爸爸。现在好了,现在崇明嗰经济 I don’t know if later on they will just 侪呒没了,现在厂房侪被外国人承包 堡镇在过去的几十年里,我看看没有 close it down because there are less 掉了,后来基本上关光了,现在侪造 什么大变化?变化要算建了几条马 and less people coming by boat. I don’t 庙了侬看到伐?我看,庙比搿种企业 路,其他你看这种房子,基本上都还 know if they will close it. 单位效益要好。对伐?烧烧香,拜拜 在,小时候怎么样,现在仍然怎么 香,我看搿种和尚还养得胖来,工资 样,节奏慢吞吞,蛮好,我觉得也蛮 [12:24] Oh yeah! There is a restaurant

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堡镇

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Buzhen 比搿种大学生高一点。怪类,怪胎, 好,像今天这种天色,温度么也不 here called Xiang Ming Restaurant. 畸形社会。 高,有时候么骑骑自行车,现在这种 This restaurant was opened by my 生活,我说比生活在上海,肯定要更 high school friend’s family. He, my 堡镇勒辣老早额嗰几十年里,我看看 加健康,寿命也更加长一点。 friends, and I, from middle school to 呒没啥大变化?变化要算建了几条马 high school, basically always hung out 路,其他侬看箇种房子,基本上侪还 [16:00] 小时候我记得是,一直是想 here at the dock. This Xiangming 勒辣,小辰光哪能样,现在依旧哪能 跟着那些大孩子跑到码头上面玩,因 Restaurant, I think now, now I think it 样,节奏慢吞吞,蛮好,我觉着也蛮 为我觉得这像是一个大人玩的地方, has already closed down. When I was a 好,像今朝箇种天色,温度么也弗 蛮神秘的。我的父母一直是阻止我去 kid, that is to say, from his mouth I 高,有辰光么踏踏自行车,现在箇种 的,但是越是阻止我去呢,越是觉得 heard, basically, that this is kind of 生活,我讲比生活勒辣上海,肯定要 有新鲜感,越是来劲,越是要去。有 representative of Chongming’s 更加健康,寿命也更加长一点。 时候我记得,跟那些大孩子,那个时 prosperity, that it depends on the flow 候小的是,连公交车也乘不来。不晓 of people. I remember one time in [16:00] 小辰光我记得是,一直是想 得怎么乘公交车,不乘公交车,(因 high school, he said to me that 跟牢大小人跑到码头上面孛相,因为 为)有时候没有钱,从北堡镇走到南 sometimes when the business was 我觉着箇像是一嗰大人孛相嗰地方, 堡镇,这可是桩大事了,不得了啊! good, the restaurant could earn 1000 蛮神秘嗰。我嗰爷娘一直是阻止我去 那个时候走路是什么概念啊。现在 RMB in one day. He said at that time, 嗰,但是越是阻止我去呢,越是觉着 说,走路走路,走个半个小时了不得 he could go to the cashier drawer and 有新鲜感,越是来劲,越是要去。有 了。那个时候,走路,有一种探险的 take out as much money as he wanted. 辰光我记得,跟大小人,搿辰光小, 感觉。走得有点像,有点像走了半个 You can just imagine how prosperous 连公交车也乘弗来。弗晓得哪能乘公 地球的感觉了。呵呵。。。 this area was back then! So many 交车,弗乘公交车,(因为)有辰光 people coming through here. 呒没钞票,从北堡镇走到南堡镇,箇 这里红绿灯没关系的,这里的红绿灯 可是桩大事了,弗得了啊!搿嗰辰光 就摆摆样子的,只要没有车,你就骑 On your left, you can see what I 走路是啥概念啊。现在讲,走路走 过去好了。 mentioned before. There is a temple 路,走嗰半个小时了弗得了。搿嗰辰 that was built here. A long time ago, 光,走路,有一种探险嗰感觉。走得 [ 穿过崇明新港路。] there was a factory here called 有点像,有点像走了半额嗰地球嗰感 Liaoyuan Factory. This is where my 觉了。呵呵。。。 这里的这种房子呢,这种房子呢,好 father worked. He worked at the 像是原来是有蛮多私人开的旅馆。原 electroplating plant. I don’t know if he 箇搭红绿灯呒没关系额嗰,箇搭额嗰 来码头上,船开的时候,人蛮多的, worked at the electroplating plant or 19


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Buzhen 红绿灯就摆摆样子额嗰,只要呒没车 人跑来跑去的时候,码头上生意也蛮 the electric machinery plant. I 侬就踏好了。 好的。现在我看好像码头上船也不开 remember that he was a director in the 了,人也没有了,这种小旅馆生意我 office. I remember when school was [ 穿过崇明新港路。] 估计也不灵了,退化了,退化蛮大 out, I would come to the gate and they 的。未来的趋势是:陈家镇会变的越 would ask me who I was looking for. I 箇搭嗰箇种房子呢,箇种房子呢,好 来越热闹,堡镇应该越来越清净,我 would say, “my father”. Then they 像是原来是有蛮多私人开嗰旅馆。老 感觉也蛮好。 would ask who my father was. I would 早原来码头上,船开嗰辰光,人蛮多 say his name then they would run to 嗰,人跑来跑去嗰辰光,码头上生意 [18:30] 崇明岛,崇明岛最最主要的 the office and look for my father. Now, 也蛮好嗰。现在勒辣我看好像码头上 交通工具,对大部分老百姓来讲,主 Chongming’s economy is not like it was 船也弗开了,人也呒没了,箇种小旅 要交通工具还是公共汽车、公共汽 before. The factory was sold to 馆生意我估计也弗灵了,退化了,退 车。。。这样公共汽车和上海稍许有 foreigners, then eventually all closed. 化蛮大嗰。未来嗰趋势是:陈家镇会 点不一样的地方基本上用小镇的当头 Now there is a small temple in its place. 变嗰越来越闹猛,堡镇应该越来越清 字母连接作为一个终点的一个线。我 Can you see? This kind of business has 净,我感觉也蛮好。 记得我小时候,有时自已去乘公交车 to be more successful, right? Burn the 有时一直会乘错的耶,那些时候也不 incense, pray to the gods. I see fat [18:30] 崇明岛,崇明岛最最主要嗰 懂啥 “ 南堡线 ”、“ 堡陈线 ” 有 monks there, so their salary must be 交通工具,对大部分老百姓来讲,主 许多乘错,一不小心乘错,跑到牛棚 much better than a college students! 要交通工具还是公共汽车、公共汽 镇去了,奥哟,乘错车子,小时候乘 What a strange society this is. 车。。。箇样公共汽车对上海稍许有 错车子是吓得来不知如何,是大事 点弗一样嗰地方基本上用小镇嗰当头 情,不知如何。崇明岛还是太大,交 In the last 20 years or so what changes 字母连接作为一个终点嗰一个线。我 通确实是不方便。反正我总感觉,我 has Buzhen had? There has been a few 记得我小辰光,有辰光自家去乘公交 印象中小时候的堡镇肯定要比现在的 new roads and houses but basically 车有辰光一直会乘错嗰耶,箇些辰光 堡镇要热闹的多的多,相当热闹,尤 everything is how it was when I was a 也弗懂啥 “ 南堡线 ”、“ 堡陈线 ” 其是北堡镇。现在北堡镇看看半死不 kid. Things are still moving pretty 有交关乘错脱,一弗小心乘错脱,跑 活,反正,小时候的北堡镇我记得可 slowly now. I think the change is good 到牛棚镇去了,奧奥哟,乘错车子, 能因为比启东还要好,有许多启东人 though. The color of the sky today, the 小辰光乘错车子是吓得来弗晓得哪能 做生意,摆摊都到北堡镇来,北堡镇 temperature is not too hot, riding 办,是大(du)事体。崇明岛还是忒 当时热闹得不得了。 bicycles. This kind of life, compared to 大,交通确实是弗方便。反正我总觉 living in Shanghai city, is definitely 着,我印象中小辰光嗰堡镇肯定要比 还有我记得,像我们初中的时候,包 much healthier. You live longer out 21


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堡镇 现在嗰堡镇要热闹多额嗰多,相当热 闹,尤其是北堡镇。现在北堡镇看看 半死弗活了,反正,小辰光嗰北堡镇 我记得可能因为比启东还要好,有交 关启东人做生意,摆摊头侪到北堡镇 来,北堡镇当时热闹得弗得了。

括延续到高中,每年的元宵节,我们 要拎兔子灯,扔火球。那个时候的南 堡镇,摩肩接踵 热闹的不得了,要 人挤人,真是人挤人挤死人,到这个 地步。人的密度要比你们在南京路步 行街的人更加多,这与经济发展有关 系,有许多人因为上海经济发展好了 还有我记得,像阿拉初中嗰辰光,包 都要赚钱,上海更加容易赚钱,人都 括延续到高中,每年嗰元宵节,阿拉 迁往到上海去,这里留下的全是老弱 要拎兔子灯,厾火球。搿嗰辰光额嗰 病残,所以城也基本上越来越冷清。 南堡镇,摩肩接踵 闹猛得额弗得 了,要人轧人,真是人轧人轧煞人, [ 进入崇明县堡镇光明社区 - 居民委 到箇嗰地步。人嗰密度要比勒辣南京 员会堡镇南路 269 号 ] 路步行街额嗰人还要多,箇与经济发 展有关系,有交关人看到上海经济发 有路子的混得好的基本上都出去了, 展好侪要赚钞票,上海更加容易赚钞 就这里,那叫堡镇社区文化活动中心 票,人侪迁移到上海去,箇搭留下嗰 体育场,我们小时候反正就叫体育 侪是老弱病残,所以城镇也基本上越 场,这地方我记得小时候印象比较深 来越冷清。 的,我估计我那时 10 岁还没到,那 时喜欢溜冰,现在这溜冰场还在。那 [ 进入崇明县堡镇光明社区 - 居民委 时我印象中储蓄罐里,把一只只硬 员会堡镇南路 269 号 ] 币 1 分、5 分用手抠出来,用 5 分乘 车乘到这里下来,还用掉 2 角钱,2 有路子嗰人混得好嗰基本上侪出去 角钱在这里溜半天,溜冰。那时侯溜 了,就箇搭,伊叫堡镇社区文化活动 冰鞋铁的四只轱辘,“ 咣当 咣当。” 中心体育场,阿拉小辰光反正就叫体 热闹得都是人。小时候,用小时候的 育场,箇地方我记得小辰光印象比较 眼光看看,这只溜冰场是很大的,现 深嗰,我估计我挨个辰光 10 岁还呒 在看看,现在还跑的进,隔壁里面有 到,挨个时光喜欢溜冰,现在箇溜冰 一只篮球场,那时跑得进来,所以, 场还勒辣。挨辰光我印象中储蓄罐头 专门用来健身的一个体育的高档场 里 向 ,一只 只 1 分 、5 分 用 手 抠 出 所,当时是堡镇的唯一的一个健身的

here.

[16:00] When I was a kid I remember I always followed the big kids to play at the dock because I always felt that the dock was a place for older people to play. It was a magical place. My parents always tried to stop me from going but I the more they forbade me to go, the more I felt it was more exciting, the more thrilling it was, and the more I wanted to go. Sometimes when I followed the big kids, when I was a kid, I wouldn’t take the bus. I didn’t know how to take the bus! Sometimes it was also because I didn’t have any money to take it. The bus was from Buzhen to South Buzhen. It really was a big deal! Back then the thought of walking was different than it is now. Now, walking, if you walk half an hour it’s unbelievable. Back then, walking had a feeling of exploration. Walking was kind of like, like walking around half of the world. Ha ha! Don’t mind this traffic light, it’s just for show. There is no car here. You can keep going. This house, this house, I think it 24


Buzhen 来,用 5 分乘车乘到箇搭下来,还用 落脱两角洋钿,两角洋钿勒辣箇搭溜 半天,溜冰。挨辰光溜冰鞋铁额嗰四 只轱辘轱,“ 咣当、咣当、。。” 闹猛得来侪是人。小辰光,用小辰光 嗰眼光看看,箇只溜冰场是大(du) 得来,现在看看,跑进去,隔壁里向 面有一只篮球场,挨辰光跑得勤快 来,所以,专门用来健身嗰 一嗰体 育嗰高档场所,当时堡镇嗰一嗰健身 嗰高档场所,侬看,箇种地板可以讲 呒没变动过,可以讲小辰光地板哪能 样,现在依旧哪能样子,侬看一只圈 子,一只圈子搿面风凉额嗰地方侪是 石板凳,溜溜后坐下来歇一息还溜。 箇搭一间门房间,出点钞票换溜冰 鞋,有辰光穿得溜冰鞋弗好还可以换 一双,挨个辰光几十嗰人,大嗰围牢 勒转。我搿辰光是小小囡,主要是成 年人,伊拉会溜。箇嗰印象相当深。 我搿辰光一直瞒牢爷娘跑来孛相,自 已用脱了弗少钞票,一直溜到自已会 溜为止。箇嗰印象蛮深嗰,而且我记 得两头溜来溜去,乓、乓、乓、刹车 刹弗牢最后勒辣横档停下来,手总要 撑勒箇横档上,每趟溜好回到屋里向 后,手痛得来,第二天箇搭骨头撞得 痛得来,箇印象相当深。箇地方还保 留着。 [ 离开体育场。] 25

高档场所,你看,这种地板可以讲没 有变过,可以讲小时候地板怎样,现 在仍旧怎样,你看一只圈子,一只圈 子那里风凉的地方全是石板凳,溜溜 后坐下来看一会儿还去溜。这是一间 门房间,出点钱换溜冰鞋,有时穿得 溜冰鞋不好还可以换一双,那时几十 个人,大家围着转。我那时是小小 孩,主要是成年人,他们会溜。这个 印象相当深。我那时一直瞒着父母跑 来 玩 ,(一直 溜 到 ) 自 已 用 了 不 少 钱,一直溜到自已会溜为止。这个印 象蛮深的,而且我记得两头溜来溜 去,乓、乓、乓、刹车刹不住最后在 横档停下来,手总要撑在这横档上, 每次溜好回家后,手痛得来,第二天 这里骨头撞得痛得来,这印象相当 深。这地方还保留着。 [ 离开体育场。]

[24:14] 今 天 是 礼 拜 天 了 , 人 也 没 有。

我这部破脚踏车,看它破,咕噜咕噜 声音,勾起我小辰光踏脚踏车时的回 忆,脚踏车声音没有。现在基本上全 是电瓶车,电瓶车近几年来,近四五 年来,当然不仅仅是局限于崇明岛, 应该来讲整个全国主要偏二线三线的 小地方发生的较大的变化,脚踏车基

originally had a lot of private hotels. Originally at the docks, when the ferries were running, there was so many people all over the place. The business was good here. Now it looks like the ferry isn’t running anymore. The people are gone too. This hotel I think is not doing well. It’s run down. It’s very run down. The coming trend is: “Chenjia City will become very popular, Buzhen will become very peaceful.” I think this change is good.

[18:30] Chongming Dao, Chongming Dao’s main transportation, as far as most people are concerned, the most important mode of transportation is the bus. The bus… The buses here and the one’s in Shanghai have slight differences. Basically, they use the first character of the place where the bus route begins and the first character of where the route ends. I remember when I was a kid when I took the bus, I always got on the wrong bus. Back then, I didn’t know what ‘Nan Bu route” or “Bu Chen route”meant. I took a lot of wrong buses back then. If you weren’t careful and got on the wrong bus, you would go to Niupeng City. The you would


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[24:14] 今 朝 是 礼 拜 天 了 , 人 也 呒 本上被电瓶车所取代。一千元左右买 think Oh man! I got on the wrong bus! 没。

一辆车,毕竟省力得多了。

我箇部破脚踏车,看伊破,咕噜咕噜 声音,勾起我小辰光踏脚踏车时嗰回 忆,脚踏车生意呒没。现在基本上侪 是电瓶车,电瓶车近几年来,近四、 五年来,当然弗仅仅是局限于崇明 岛,应该来讲整个全国主要偏二线、 三线嗰小地方发生嗰老大额嗰变化, 脚踏车基本上侪畀电瓶车所取代。一 千元左右买一辆车毕竟省力得多了。

[25:40] 实际上脚踏车相当少了。实

[25:40] 实际上车辆相对脚踏车相当 少了。实际上我箇部脚踏车是踏踏孛 相孛相额嗰,我自己屋里箇种车子啥 人肯踏出去。锈迹斑斑额,哈哈。 箇嗰也是印象比较深嗰,看见伐?箇 四嗰字:《少年之家》。《少年之家》。 《少年之家》。侬晓得,勒辣我小嗰辰 光,箇四嗰字嗰份量是多少重啊?箇 四嗰字嗰份量,《少年之家》 相当于 现在勒讲嗰 北京 天上人间晓得伐? 勒辣箇搭面,我畀侬讲,样样啥嗰侪 有,里面像学画图嗰,报兴趣班,对 吧?看看该种小电影啦,老师组织嗰 啥活动啦,看啥人做戏咯,反正就是 讲,畀少年搭界嗰,反正,有啥事 体,勒辣《少年之家》 进行时,箇 算是上排场了,算大事体了。里向各

际上我这部脚踏车是踏踏玩玩的,我 自己家里这种车子 谁肯骑出去。锈 迹斑斑额,哈哈。

诺,这个也是印象比较深的,看见 伐?这四个字:少年之家。少年之 家。少年之家。你晓得,在我小的时 候,这四个字的分量是多少重啊?这 四个字的分量,少年之家相当于现在 说说的 “ 北京 ” 天上人间晓得伐? 在这里面,我和你说,样样啥的都 有,里面像学画图的,兴趣班,对 吧?看看那种小电影啦,老师组织个 什么活动啦,看啥人演戏了咯,反正 就是说,和少年搭界的,反正,有啥 事体,在少年之家进行是,这算是上 排场了,算大事情了。里面那种家什 全有,喔唷,现在已经不成样子了, 里面已经都拆光了。小时候,少年之 家在我印象当中,那个地位是确实相 当深刻的。少年之家,这四个字是分 量重。 这个诺,这个是崇明县的堡镇小学。 这个堡镇小学,在我小时候印象中, 比较深的是什么呢?像我记得,那个 时候,小学五年级,六年级开始,上

When you were a kid and got on the wrong bus, it was so scary because you didn’t know what to do. It was a big deal because you didn’t know what to do. Chongming Dao is still very big but the public transportation is actually not that convenient. Basically, when I think about it, I think that the Buzhen when I was a kid compared to the Buzhen now was much more busy. Especially north Buzhen. Nowadays Buzhen looks more dead than alive. Basically, when I was a kid, North Buzhen I remember because compared to Qidong 5 it was much better. A lot of Qidong people had businesses there. They would come to North Buzhen and set up shop there. It was a very busy place.

I also remember, when I was in Middle school as well as in high school, every year during Yuan Xiao Jie 6 we would carry rabbit lights and throw fireballs. In south Buzhen, it was so crowded. Everyone was so squashed together, squashed to death. There was more people there than there was on the Nanjing Dong Lu pedestrian street, and even more on top of that. This 28


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堡镇 种物事侪有,喔唷,现在已经弗成样 子了,里向已经侪拆光了。小辰光, 《少年之家》勒辣我印象当中,搿嗰 地位是确实相当深刻嗰。《少年之家 》,箇四嗰字是份量重。 箇嗰是崇明县嗰堡镇小学。箇嗰堡镇 小学,勒辣我小辰光印象中,比较深 嗰是啥呢?像我记得,搿个辰光,小 学五年级,六年级开始,上搿个辰 光,叫啥呢?外语班,英语补习班, 外语班。箇嗰房子就是箇搭,我记得 清清爽爽,教室也估计还是箇两个教 室。挨额个辰光,印象是相当相当深 嗰,反正,住么住勒北堡镇,那么, 上课么,就踏脚踏车。踏着脚踏车, 每天反正,一嗰礼拜总归两到三趟, 我记得,有辰光嘛是双休日额嗰下 午,跑过来上,上几嗰小时额嗰课。 箇搭另外出钞票嗰。要么是夜道,放 了学,夜里总归上到七八点钟,箇搭 面总归是一种英语补习班啦。挨额嗰 辰光我总归记得,叫啥,电视英语 啊。现在勒想想,搿个辰光,一开 始,激情大(du)了交交关关,上到 一半还畀骗了,跑过来孛相孛相是真 嗰,根本弗是上课了。挨额个辰光而 且还有另外一嗰特点,搿搿辰光上课 像啥呢?踏一辆自行车,然后,每嗰 人呢,拎一只,弗是书包哦,拎一嗰 搿种像,公文包?皮包啦,其实是。

那个时候,叫什么呢?外语班,英语 补习班,外语班。这个房子就是这 里,我记得清清楚楚,教室也估计还 是这两个教室。那个时候,印象是相 当相当深的,反正,住么住在北堡 镇,那么,上课么,就骑脚踏车。骑 着脚踏车,每天反正,一个礼拜总归 两到三趟,我记得,有时候么是双休 日的下午,跑过来上,上几个小时的 课。这是另外出钱的。要么是晚上, 放了学,晚上总归上到七八点钟,这 里面总归是一种英语补习班啦。那个 时候我总归记得,叫什么,电视英语 啊。现在想想,那个时候,一开始, 激情澎湃,上到一半还被骗了,跑过 来玩玩是真的,根本不是上课了。那 个时候而且还有另外一个特点,那个 时候上课像什么呢?骑一辆自行车, 然后,每个人呢,拎一只,不是书包 哦,拎一个那种像,公文包,皮包 啦,其实是。正好里边塞一本很厚的 书,这个也是比较有特色的,每个人 进来,都是拎一个像公文包,皮包, 那个时候。那个时候还比呢,我这个 是什么包?

[28:51] 还有印象比较深的,就是什

么呢?在这个小学的对面,现在变成 其他东西了。小时候,那个时候是什 么呢?我记得那个时候,就是说,有 一家人家,专门烤牛肉串也不知道是

situation is related to the economic development of Shanghai. A lot of people, because Shanghai was doing very well, everyone moved to Shanghai because you could get a higher salary. This left the old, sick, or disabled here. So Buzhen eventually became more rural. If there was a way out, people would basically take it. [ 进入崇明县堡镇光明社区 - 居民委 员会堡镇南路 269 号 ] Right here, this is called the ‘Buzhen Cultural Community Sports Center’. When we were kids we just called it the ‘sports center’. This place has a deep meaning in my memory. It was probably when I was almost 10 years old. At that time we loved roller skating. The roller skating rink is still here. I remember I would grab one 1 fen and one 5 fen coins 7 out of my piggy bank. The 5 fen would be for the bus to get here. The rest would be to skate here. The cost was 2 ‘jiao’ to skate for half a day. At that time, the roller skates were made of metal with 4 metal wheels. ‘Ge dang, ge dang’ was the sound they would make. It was so busy, there were people everywhere. When I 30


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堡镇 正好里向塞一本老厚嗰书,箇嗰也是 羊肉串。 比较有特色嗰,每嗰人进来,侪是拎 一嗰像公文包、皮包,搿个辰光还攀 [29:00] 那个味道是,在我童年的记 比呢,我箇嗰是啥包? 忆当中,属于,基本上可以讲,没什 么可以取代这个东西的。我觉得,这 [28:51] 还有印象比较深嗰,就是啥 个味道,真的,一生当中,现在回忆 呢?勒辣箇嗰小学嗰对面,现在变成 起来,也没有什么东西比这个东西还 其它物事了。小辰光,搿嗰辰光是啥 要好吃。我记得,那个时候,这种牛 呢?我记得搿嗰辰光,就是讲,有一 肉串,羊肉串,比较少的缘故呢,还 家人家,专门烤牛肉串也弗晓得是羊 是他们比人家做的好吃,这个我现在 肉串。 还没有进一步认证过啦。我准备那么 很多年过去了,我准备去找找这个老 [29:00] 搿嗰咪道是,勒辣我童年嗰 板去,看看他做的那个牛肉串羊肉 记忆当中,属于,基本上可以讲,呒 串,这一次要好好尝一尝,到底是他 啥可以替代箇嗰物事。我觉着,箇嗰 做出来的东西好呢?还是我这个口味 咪道,真嗰,一生当中,现在回忆起 的问题。我记得我们小时候,反正, 来,也呒没啥物事比箇嗰物事还要好 来上课是假的,我记得那时候,主要 吃。我记得,搿个辰光,箇种牛肉 目的,跑过来,就是来吃一点牛肉 串、,羊肉串,比较少嗰缘故呢,还 串,羊肉串的,我记得。一块钱一串 是伊拉比人家做额嗰好吃,箇嗰我现 也不知道多少钱一串,我记得。那个 在还呒没进一步认证过啦,。我准 时候,大概,五角,五角钱还是多 备,老多年前, 老早了,我准备去 少,我记得。后来是好像涨价了。那 寻寻箇嗰老板去,看看伊做嗰搿嗰牛 个时候反正,主要来上课的目的,一 肉串、羊肉串,箇一次要好好叫尝一 开始,总归,跑过来,上课前,先买 尝,到底是伊做出来嗰物事好呢?还 两串吃吃,对伐?上课时没有心思上 是我嗰口味嗰问题。我记得阿拉小辰 课的,上课也不知道在干什么,在睡 光,反正,来上课是假嗰,我记得搿 觉,在这里,也不知道在做什么。课 辰光,主要呒事体嗰,跑过来,就是 间休息,马上跑出去买两串吃吃,第 来吃一点牛肉串、,羊肉串嗰,我记 二趟。第三趟是,放学了,还买二串 得。一块洋钿一串也弗晓得多少洋钿 吃吃。吃了不算数,还要包一点,在 一串。,我记得。挨个辰光,大概, 路上吃。这个印象太深了,这个牛肉

was young through my eyes, this place seemed so huge. Now when I take look, right next to here is a basketball court. A lot of people come here to run and exercise. Before, it was Buzhen’s one and only sports center. You can see the skating rinks floor hasn’t changed a bit. It looks just like it did when I was kid. You can see its one big circle. That rest area had some stone benches. You skate a bit, then rest, then you’d skate again. This room is where you would pay the money and get your skates. If the pair you got wasn’t good, then you could get another pair. There could be 30-40 people going around. There were some little kids skating but mainly there were older kids skating since they knew how to skate well. I remember this place quite well. I would never tell my parents I was going skating. I spent a lot of money here and eventually learned how to skate all by myself. I remember it well. I remember I would skate around twice, “pang, pang, pang” then I would try to stop at the benches but sometimes I couldn’t stop so I would grab the benches to stop me. Afterwards when I went home, my hands hurt so much. They would still 32


Buzhen 五角,五角洋钿还是多少,我记得。 后来是好像涨价了。搿嗰辰光,反 正,主要来上课嗰目的,一开始,总 归,跑过来,上课前,先买两串吃 吃,对伐?上课时呒没心思上课额 嗰,上课也弗晓得勒辣做干啥,勒辣 困觉,勒辣箇搭,也弗晓得勒辣做 啥。课间休息,马上跑出去买两串吃 吃,第二趟。第三趟是,放学了,还 买二串吃吃。吃了弗算数,还要包一 点,勒辣路上吃。箇嗰印象忒深了, 箇额嗰牛肉串、,羊肉串忒好吃了, 忒好吃了。老板叫 “ 小六子 ”,“ 小六子 ”。搿嗰辰光,我第一次吃 箇嗰牛肉串、羊肉串嗰辰光,可是平 生第一趟吃箇嗰,搿个辰光,牛肉 串、,羊肉串箇嗰物事,只有勒辣电 视上看见嗰。勒辣崇明岛上是呒没嗰 啦。第一趟吃,我估计我还呒没到 10 岁,搿个辰光,是勒辣工人文化 宫,工人俱乐部隔壁吃嗰,搿嗰辰光 是用炭碳烤嗰,勒辣搿面哗啦哗啦 扇。搿个是我第一次尝到箇嗰咪道。 搿嗰辰光还勒辣担心箇嗰物事熟了呒 没,吃了会吃坏肚皮么,。一尝,倒 是还蛮好吃额嗰,倷么好了,从此开 始就上瘾了。我问伊额嗰,箇额嗰物 事哪能弄额嗰?伊有辰光讲我勒辣里 向摆罂粟籽,罂粟籽?我怀疑有可能 额嗰,真额嗰放了罂粟籽,吃了以 后,像上腻头了,一直要想吃,一直 33

串,羊肉串太好吃了,太好吃了。老 板叫 “ 小六子 ”,“ 小六子 ”。 那个时候,我第一次吃这个牛肉串羊 肉串的时候,那可是平生第一次吃这 个,那个时候,牛肉串,羊肉串这个 东西,只有在电视上看见的。在崇明 岛上是没有的啦。第一次吃,我估计 我还没有到 10 岁,那个时候,是在 工人文化宫,工人俱乐部隔壁吃的, 那个时候是在碳烤的,在那里哗啦哗 啦扇。那是我第一次尝到那个味道。 那个时候还在担心那个东西熟了没 有,吃了会吃坏肚子么。一尝,倒是 还蛮好吃的,那么好了,从此开始就 上瘾了。我问他的,这个东西怎么弄 的?他有时候对我说在这里面放了点 罂粟子,罂粟子我怀疑有可能的,真 的放了罂粟子,吃了以后,像上瘾 了,一直要想吃,一直要想吃。

be painful the next day. This place still holds deep memories for me. [Leave Sports Center.]

[24:14] Today is Sunday so there are no people here.

This bike is a little bit broken, look, it makes a sound, ‘gulu, gulu’. It reminds me of when I rode a bike as a kid. There was no sound then though. Nowadays everyone basically has electric scooters. In the last few years, maybe the last 4-5 years, and not only limited to Chongming Dao, you could say that the entire country in second and third tier small cities have experienced this change; the bicycle has been replaced by the electric scooter. For about 1000 [31:59] 那个老板,我印象当中,高 RMB you could buy a scooter and it 中的时候,记得他的饭店搬到,搬到 would make your life a lot easier. 街上去了。现在不知道在吗,这下好 了,这个记忆是在,是将近 20 年前 [25:40] In fact, the number of bicycles 的 事 情 了 。20 年 前 的 事 情 了 , 但 is far fewer than before. I am only 是,仍然是刻骨铭心的啊。说明他这 riding this bicycle for fun now. My 个牛肉串,羊肉串,做的确实是好 house has a bicycle but who would 吃。说得我口水都流出来了。 dare ride it out now? It’s all rusty and ugly, ha ha! 我们到那里去看看去,看看那个饭店 到底还在吗? Oh yeah, this is also pretty deep in my


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Buzhen 要想吃。

看一下,看看 “ 小六子 ” 还在吗?

[31:59] 搿嗰老板,我印象当中,高 [ 走进 “ 埠镇 ” 南路 63 号左边的弄 中嗰辰光,记得伊嗰饭店搬到,搬到 街上去了。现在弗晓得勒辣吗,倷么 好了,箇嗰记忆是勒辣,是将近 20 年前嗰事体了。20 年前嗰事体了, 但是,仍然是刻骨铭心嗰啊。说明伊 箇嗰牛肉串、,羊肉串,做了确实是 好吃。讲得我口水侪流出来了。

堂。走到尽头右转。餐厅在正大街 65 号见 44 页。]

[32:41] 逆向行驶。 那时候,我在学校的时候,也经常来 吃的。 来 看一下 , 看 看 “ 小 六 子 ” 还 在 吗?估计应该回去了。

阿拉到搿面去看看去,看看搿嗰饭店 到底还勒辣吗? 服务员:你要什么? 采访者:不用,我来看看这里的老 看一下 , 看 看 “ 小 六 子 ” 还 勒 辣 板。 吗? 店主:丝瓜炒蛋好了没有啊? 采访者:牛肉串,羊肉串还有吗? [ 走进 “ 埠镇 ” 南路 63 号左边的弄 店主:不做了。有几年不弄了。 堂。走到尽头右转。餐厅在正大街 店主:现在不做牛肉串了。我是来找 65 号见 44 页。] 的, 采访者:我是来找这里以前的牛肉 [32:41] 逆向行驶。 串,羊肉串的。 搿辰光,我勒辣学校嗰辰光,也经常 店主:牛肉串,羊肉串啊? 来吃嗰。 采访者:我和你说啊,我第一次吃牛 来看一下,看看 “ 小六子 ” 还勒辣 肉串,羊肉串十岁都没有到啊。那时 吗?估计应该回去了。 候是在堡镇小学对面啊。上课的小 孩,有两个是一直来的,你怎么不认 服务员:侬要啥? 识我了? 采访者:弗用,我来看看箇搭嗰老 我还是想想还要吃那个味道。 板。 店主:不弄了。小徒弟,我的徒弟在 店主 : 丝瓜炒蛋好了呒没啊? 做。 35

memory. Do you see? These four characters: ‘Shao Nian Zhi Jia’ 8 . Shao Nian Zhi Jia. You know, when I was young how much these words meant to me? These four characters’ weight… This Children’s center, you could say this place is the a same as what the Beijing’s ‘Tian Shan Ren Jian’ is. Inside here, I tell you, has everything- you can learn painting, and other classes. You could watch movies, the teachers would organize activities, you could act in a play. Basically this place had everything that a kid would want to do or be interested in. Basically, this children’s center was so lavish. It was a big deal. Inside it had everything. Oh! It looks like its not around anymore. The inside looks like its all gutted. The Children’s center is an important memory for me. This place has a place deep in my heart. ‘Shao Nian Zhi Jia’ these four characters mean a lot to me. This place, this is the Chongming county Buzhen elementary school. What do I remember about this elementary school? I remember in 5th grade or the beginning of 6th grade I had a class, what was its name? It was a foreign language class, an after-school English class. I remember very clearly


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堡镇 采访者:牛肉串,羊肉串还有吗? 店主:弗做了。有几年弗弄了。 采访者:现在弗做牛肉串了。我是来 寻额嗰,我是来寻箇搭老早嗰牛肉 串,羊肉串嗰。 店主:牛肉串,羊肉串啊? 采访者:我畀侬讲啊,我第一趟吃牛 肉串,羊肉串十岁侪呒没到啊。搿辰 光是勒辣堡镇小学对面啊。上课嗰小 人,有两嗰是一直来嗰,侬哪能弗认 得我了? 我还是想要吃搿嗰咪道。 店主:弗弄了。小徒弟,我嗰徒弟勒 辣做。 采访者:我今朝来嗰时间弗对,侬忙 勒。。。。侬嗰娘子弗看见了, 店主:啊,乡下去了。 采访者:我一直忘弗记箇只牛肉串、 羊肉串嗰咪道,我还勒辣寻,呵 呵。。。。

采访者:我今天来的时间不对,你忙 啊。。。。你的娘子没看见了, 店主:啊,乡下去了。我一直忘记不 了这只牛肉串、羊肉串的味道,我还 在寻,呵呵。。。。 [ 离开餐厅,骑单车沿弄堂往北。]

[36:40] 这条堡镇街属于南堡镇最最 热闹的一条街了。那个时候,我记得 小时候买衣服什么的,基本上就跑到 这里的铺子上面来的。所以,相当于 你们上海的那种大卖场。也算,属于 你们上海比较高档的大卖场了。你前 面这个地方呢,原来是电影院,现 在,你看看变成什么了?

这种街啦,这种街熟悉的。小时候, 没有事情的时候,骑着自行车来兜一 圈,总归这两条街,穿来穿去就是这 [ 离开餐厅,骑单车沿弄堂往北。] 两条街。这种街,你说有什么名字, 也没什么名字。老街,它的名字就是 [36:40] 箇条堡镇街属于南堡镇最最 老街,闭着眼睛摸得着的。 热闹嗰一条街了。搿嗰辰光,我记得 小辰光买衣服啥嗰,基本上就跑到箇 [ 在堡镇政府楼停 ] 搭额嗰铺子上面来嗰。所以,相当于 伊拉上海嗰搿种大卖场。也算,属于 [37:46] 这个是个电影院,这个电影 伊拉上海比较高档嗰大卖场了。侬前 院是怎么,拆掉了,现在变成什么东 面箇嗰地方呢,原来是电影院,现在 西了啦?这个电影院呢,在过去就是 呢,侬看看变成啥了? 说,堡镇上唯一的一座电影院。其实 箇种街浪啦,箇种街熟悉额嗰。小辰 也不是什么正宗的电影院。它应该是

it was in this building here. I think that it still is in these two classrooms here. At that time, this is deep in my memory, basically I lived in north Buzhen and I would ride my bike here. Every week I would come here 2 or 3 times, sometimes it was in the afternoon on the weekends. I would come here to have class for a few hours. We had to pay for these classes. Or at night after school until around 7 or 8 o’clock I would come to the English language after-school class. I remember, what was it called? English video class. I remember when I first started, I was so enthusiastic about it. About half-way through the course I realized it was pretty much a waste of money. We didn’t have class, it was just playtime! Also, there is another thing worth mentioning- what did it look like when we came to class? Picture this, we would all ride bicycles to class, then every person would carry, not a book bag, but briefcases! Leather ones, actually! Inside would be a really thick book. This was a pretty particular thing. Every person would be carrying a leather briefcase. They would even compare the brands, ‘What brand is your bag?’ 38


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堡镇 光,呒没事情嗰辰光,踏勒辣自行车 来兜一圈,总归箇两条街,穿来穿去 就是箇两条街。箇种街,侬讲有啥名 字,也呒啥名字。老街,伊嗰名字就 是老街,闭着眼睛摸得着嗰。

叫,大会堂,应该是叫大会堂,要开 什么大会了,镇政府要开会了,就是 放在这个地方的。这里是一家大会 堂,这个地方。平时还放什么电影, 像我们这种,原来初中高中,有时 候,放寒假暑假么,包场电影这里, [ 在堡镇政府楼停 ] 我记得,这里是非常热闹。周边小流 氓蛮多。电影院也确实是,电影院, [37:46] 搿是嗰电影院,箇嗰电影院 工人俱乐部,这几个是印象比较深 是哪能,拆脱了,现在变成啥物事了 的。 啦?箇嗰电影院呢,勒辣老早就是 讲,堡镇上唯一嗰一座电影院。其实 [38:45] 现在差不多 12 点钟了,我先 也弗是啥正宗额的电影院。伊应该是 到码头上,然后开着车到南门,有两 叫,大会堂,应该是叫大会堂,要开 个朋友在等我要吃饭了,好伐?今天 啥大会了,镇政府要开会了,就是放 我们就录到这里。 勒辣箇嗰地方额。箇搭是一家大会 堂,箇嗰地方。平常还放啥电影,像 阿拉箇种,原来初中高中,有辰光, 放寒假暑假么,包场电影箇搭,我记 得,箇搭是闹猛得交交关关。周边小 流氓也有交交关关。电影院也确实 是,电影院,工人俱乐部,搿几嗰是 印象比较深嗰。

[38:45] 现在差弗多 12 点钟了,让我 先到码头上,然后开着车到南门,有 两嗰朋友勒辣等我要吃饭了,好伐? 今朝阿拉就录到箇搭。

[28:51] I have another memory about this place. What is it, you ask? Across the school, now it is something different. When I was a kid what was here? I remember there was a restaurant that specialized in making barbequed beef skewers or I think it was lamb skewers. [29:00] The taste was… in my

childhood… it belonged… basically you could say that this memory could never be forgotten. The taste was, really... In my whole life, now that I think about it, there is no other food that could compare to the taste of those skewers. I remember back then that these beef and lamb skewers, I have never compared it to the other stores because not many stores sold them. Now I am preparing, after many years, to go to the restaurant and talk to the boss. I want to finally see if the beef and lamb skewers are still as good as I remember of if it doesn’t taste as good as before. I remember the main reason we went to that ‘fake’ English class was to come here and eat the beef and lamb skewers. It was 1 yuan for 1 skewer or something like that. I think it was 5 jiao, 5 jiao for 1 skewer 40


Buzhen or something. Afterwards, the price eventually went up. Basically, right before class we would come here and buy two skewers, yeah? During class my mind was not on the lesson, I didn’t even know what the class was doing, sleeping or whatever, I really didn’t know what was happening. During the breaktime, I would run over again and buy two more skewers. The second time, the third time school was over. I didn’t count how many I ate and I would buy more to bring back home. I remember it well how the beef and lamb skewers tasted so good. They tasted so good. The boss name is Mr. Liu. Yeah, Mr. Liu. When I ate the beef and lamb skewers, it was the first time in my life that I ate something like that. Before then, I only saw it on television. You couldn’t really find it in Chongming yet. I think I was almost 10 years old at the Worker’s club. They would have some barbecue there. That was the first time that I tasted skewers. But they wouldn’t cook it well. If you weren’t careful, after you ate one you would probably get a stomachache. At first it would taste very good, but then you would start to feel sick not long after 41


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Buzhen that. I asked them one time, ‘how do you make your skewers?’ He said he put opium in mine! I highly suspect that he really put opium! After I ate it I felt sick, but I still wanted to eat more. I still wanted to eat more.

[31:59] I remember that boss, when I

was in high school, I remember that restaurant moved right here on this street. Now, I don’t know if it is still there, though. Last time I remember it was here but that was 20 year ago. 20 years ago. But this is something that is engraved in my bones, I can never forget it. This proves that the beef and lamb skewers he made were actually very good. Just talking about it makes my mouth water. When we get there let’s go in and see if the restaurant is still around. Let’s see if Mr. Liu is still around. [Enter alleyway just to the left of Buzhen Nan Lu #63. Walk to the end and turn right. The restaurant is at #65 Zheng Da Jie. [ 正 大 街 65 号 ] See page 44.]

[32:41] So much traffic here. I would 43


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堡镇 always come here to eat. Come on, let’s see if Mr. Liu is still here. I think he probably left already. Woman: “Can I help you?” Ben: “I wanted to see the boss here.” Boss: “Is the Sigua and fried egg finished yet or not?” Ben: “Do you still have Beef skewers and lamb skewers ?” Boss: “We don’t sell that anymore. We stopped a few years ago. We don’t sell the beef skewers anymore.” Ben: “Oh, I wanted to find the beef skewers and lamb skewers I are before.” Boss: “Beef skewers? Lamb skewers?” Ben: “I tell you, the first time I ever ate beef skewers and lamb skewers I was almost 10 years old. I was going to school at the Buzhen elementary school across the street. We schoolkids would always come here to eat. How can you not remember me? I still want the taste of your beef and lamb skewers. ” Boss: “We don’t do that anymore. My apprentice, he still does that.” Ben: “We came today at a bad time. You’re too busy. I didn’t see your mother today.” 46


Buzhen Boss: “Oh, she went to the countryside.” Ben: “I can never forget the taste of your beef and lamb skewers. I will still search for it, ha ha!” [Leave restaurant, ride bicycle north, following the alleyway.]

[36:40] This Buzhen street belongs to

south Buzhen. It’s the most popular street. Back then, I remember you could buy clothes and everything here. Basically you could come to these stores and buy anything. You could say it’s the same as a big shopping mall in Shanghai. I think it’s the same as Shanghai’s big shopping malls. Before, this place used to be a movie theater. Now what has it changed into? This street, this street I’m quite familiar with. When I was a kid and had nothing to do, I would ride my bike here and cruise around these two streets. I would ride everywhere around these two streets. This street’s name is… there is no name. It’s name is just ‘Old street’, I can never forget it.

[Stop in from of the Buzhen Assembly 47


堡镇

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Buzhen Hall.]

[37:46] This movie theater, this movie theater has been demolished. Now its changed into something else. This movie theater, let’s go take look what it says. It was Buzhen’s first and only movie theater. Actually it’s not really a theater. This is a big assembly hall. You could call it a big assembly house for big meetings. When the local town government wants to have a big meeting they would have it here. This is an assembly hall. When it isn’t being used, they show movies here. I remember in middle and high school during winter and summer vacation they would reserve the whole theater. I remember this place would be so noisy. There would be so many crazy kids. Actually, this movie theater and the Worker's Club are deep in my memory of this place. [38:45] Now, its 12 o’clock. Let’s go

back to the dock and drive to Nanmen. Two of my friends are waiting for me to eat lunch. Today let’s end it here.

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堡镇

50


Buzhen

Footnotes 1) Chinese idiom meaning ‘the ups and downs of life’. 2) Nanmen City is in Chengqiao City which is the largest city on Chongming. From Buzhen it is another 45 minutes drive away. 3) 'Black Cars' are unlicenced taxis. In rural areas, they are sometimes the only kind of taxis you can take. 4) ‘Ren Mao Quan Wu’ literally means, ‘not even a hair from a person remains’. 5) Qidong is a city in Jiangsu province just across the river from Chongming Island to the north. The new bridge and tunnel network has created direct link between Qidong, Chongming, and Shanghai city. 6) ‘Yuan Xiao Jie’ is the final day of the Chinese New Year celebrations. 7) Chinese currency denominations are as follows: Fen (Cent), Jiao (10 Cents), Yuan (Dollar). 8) 328 Buzhen Nan Lu. [ 堡 镇 南 路 328 号 ]

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