Growing Up With Shanghai- Changchun Lu | 与沪成长- 长春路 by Bivouac Recording

Growing Up With Shanghai 与沪成长 Changchun Lu 长春路

Growing Up With Shanghai- Changchun Lu, No. 16, June 2016. Published by BIVOUAC RECORDING. This book (contents, images, and design) is Copyright 2016 Bivouac Recording and may not be reproduced without permission. The audio is released under the Creative Commons License BY-NC-SA and is free to download and share as long as they are: credited to 'Bivouac Recording', are for non-commercial use, and must be under the same license if used in your work. Bivouac Recording still retains the copyright of these recordings. 'Growing Up WIth Shanghai' is a Bivouac Recording project.

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虾米

长 Changchun Lu

Recorded and Edited by Terence LLoren Photos by Shen Yi Shanghainese Transcription by Jenny Zhang English Translation by Gloria Chiang

长春路

录音师，编辑：罗天瑞摄影师：沈祎吴语译音：张依群中英翻译：Gloria Chiang 与沪成长 — 长春路，2016 年 6 月。BIVOUAC RECORDING 出版。本刊物为双月刊。该书版权属于。未经许可不得翻印。该音频在 Creative Commons License BY–NC–ND 下发布。该音频均可免费下载与分享，但必须符合以下条件：标明版权属于 ‘Bivouac Recording’ 所有；非商业性用途；不进行任意修改。Bivouac Recording 仍保留此作品的版权。与沪成长是 Bivouac Recording 的一个项目。在中国上海记录设计。 info@bivouacrecording.com http://www.bivouacrecording.com

North北

Location of Aaron's old house (demolished) 郑奇俊郑奇俊老房子原址（已拆迁 )

#79 Changchun Lu 长春路 79 号

Changchun Lu

Starting Point #1907 Sichuan Bei Lu 起点四川北路 1907 号

Sichu

an B

ei Lu

海伦

路

春

长

四川北路

路

长春路

Changchun Lu

长春路

关于与沪成长

About GUWS

“ 与沪成长 ” 是一系列与上海年轻人一起完成的 “ 声音漫步之旅 ”。他们生于 80 和 90 年代，这些语音不仅记载了他们对成长之地的亲切回忆也从讲述者的角度对地理地点讲行过去和现在的对比。同时讲述者会通过本身的成长经历也反映了过去 30 年里上海的讲步与发展。这些实地录音由讲述人操沪语完成同时录音也捕捉纪录到当日真实的环境声音供世界各地的听者感同身受。

“Growing Up With Shanghai” is a series of soundwalks with young Shanghainese who were born and raised during the rapid modernization of their city in the 1980s and 1990s. These recordings capture not only their most intimate memories as they grew up, but, when contrasted with the present state of each location, also reveal the progress and growth Shanghai has undergone in the past 30 years. The current sounds of Shanghai, including that of the Shanghainese dialect, create a comprehensive present-day audio document that future generations can experience.

Changchun Lu

长春路

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简介

Introduction

本书为《与沪成长 — 长春路》语音文档的辅助文本。书中记录语音文档中对话译音，对照英文翻译，地点照片以及与语音文档相符的路线图。

This book is a supplement to the Growing Up With ShanghaiChángchūn Lù audio track. It contains dialog transcripts and translations, area photographs, and a route map.

用触屏手机下载音频，请扫描左边的二维码。如已用触屏手机阅读本文， Please download the audio for this 请点击二维码继续阅读全文。 walk by using your mobile device to scan the QR codes on the left. If you are *（手机版使用 Adobe Acrobat 阅读 already using a mobile device to read 器） this, click the QR codes to follow the links. 本书每页文字顺序：沪语译音（左）；普通话翻译（中 )；因为翻译 * (Use Adobe Acrobat reader for （右） mobile.) 如有兴趣与我们互动，请将您对这段路线上的任何感想，照片通过扫描左边二维码快捷上传到我们的官方微博和脸书页。

The three transcriptions / translations in this book follow this format on each page with text: Shanghainese transcription (left column); Putonghua translation (center column); English translation (right column). As you walk, feel free to upload your thoughts and images onto the project pages on Facebook or Weibo by scanning the corresponding QR codes on the left. 2

Changchun Lu

录于 2010 年 10 月 3 日下午 15：45。

Recorded October 3, 2010 at 15:45

[ 起点：#1907 四川北路 ]

[Start at #1907 Sìchuān Běi Lù]

我是 Aaron，郑奇俊。

My name’s Aaron, Zheng Qi Jun.

[0:35] 箇搭是 “ 四川北路 ”、“ 长春路 ”，箇搭是我屋里向老早蹲嘞嘞地方，第一站箇搭是 “ 四新食苑 ”，是 “ 四川北路 1907 号 ”，伊拉嗰汤团老好吃，我小辰光一直来箇搭吃汤团。阿拉姆妈一直带我来吃汤团，嘞我老小嗰辰光。我嘞箇搭一直蹲到七岁、八岁，侪搬走嗰，嘞箇之前我一直嘞箇搭嗰，吃好吃嗰物事，箇搭主要嗰是汤团。伊拉做了上海最好吃嗰汤团，我觉着！我带过老多朋友过来吃，包括中国朋友、外国朋友，伊拉也讲箇搭是上海最好嗰地方来吃汤团，而且伊拉有老多上海传统嗰糕点，还有箇种其它地方买弗到嗰，吃嗰物事，包括馄饨、面等 … 我觉着阿拉慢慢交会再过来吃嗰。

[0:35] 这里是 “ 四川北路 ”、“ 长 [0:35] This is Sìchuān Běi Lù near

春路 ”，这里是我家以前住的地方，第一站，这里是 “ 四新食苑，是 “ 四川北路 1907 号 ”，他们的汤圆很好吃，小时侯一直来这里吃汤圆。我妈一直带我来吃汤圆，在我很小的时候。我在这里一直住到七岁、八岁，才搬走的，在这之前我一直在这里的，吃好吃的东西，这里主要是汤圆。他们做了上海最好吃的汤圆，我觉得！我带了很多朋友过来吃，包括中国朋友、外国朋友，他们也说这里是上海最好的地方来吃汤圆，而且他们有很多上海传统的糕点，还有许多其他地方买不到的吃的东西，包括馄饨、面等 … 我觉得我们等一会儿会再过来吃的。

[ 四川北路向北走 ]

阿拉现在嘞 “ 长春路 ”、“ 四川北路 ” 浪向走。现在箇搭有交关商店，嘞我小嗰辰光是呒没介些多商店嗰。而且现在侬还能看到周围有交关 “ 高楼大厦 ”，有交关。老早箇

我们现在，在 “ 长春路 ”、“ 四川北路 ” 上走。现在这里有许许多多商店，在我小的时候是没有这些商店的。而且现在你还能看见周围有许多 “ 高楼大厦 ”，有许多。以前这

Chángchūn Lù. This is the place where my family used to live in. The first stop is “Sìxīnshíyuàn” at “No. 1907 Sìchuān Běi Lù”. Their Tāngyuán (glutinous riceballs) are delicious. I came here all the time to eat Tāngyuán when I was a child. My mum used to bring me here for Tāngyuán, when I was very little. I lived here up until I was about seven or eight then we moved away. Before this I would always be here eating good food. I usually ate Tāngyuán here. I think they make the best Tāngyuán in Shanghai! I’ve brought many friends over here, local friends from here and friends from other countries. They also said that this is the best place in Shanghai to have Tāngyuán. They also have a lot of traditional Shanghainese pastries and a lot of food you couldn’t get at other places, like wonton, noodles, etc. We’re going to come back and eat here later.

长春路

Changchun Lu

长春路 [Walk north on Sìchuān Běi Lù.] We’re now walking along Sìchuān Běi Lù towards Chángchūn Lù. There are many shops now that never existed when I was a child. You can also see that there are many “high-rise buildings” in the area. In the past there were mostly low-rise houses that had two or three stories. There’s a plan right now where they are renovating this area and building it a little taller. This place used to look older (than it is now), now it looks newer, for example they’ve just painted the walls here.

搭一般性侪是比较矮嗰房子，比方讲是二层楼、三层楼，现在有一种方案是伊拉会拿箇一块重新修缮一下，造得更高一些，老早箇搭看起来（比现在）旧一些，现在看起来新了交关，比方伊拉粉刷过墙壁啊 …

里大多是矮的房子，比如说是二层楼、三层楼，现在有一种方案是他们会把这一块重新修缮一下，建得更高一些，以前这里看起来（比现在）旧一些，现在看起来新一些，比如他们粉刷过墙啊 …

“ 四川北路 ” 老早曾经是上海老闹忙嗰一条路。我想，仅次于 “ 南京西路 ”“ 淮海路 ”，仅次于该两条路。而且，箇搭老早，像现在也是，平常辰光还是有交关人过来兜，箇搭畀 “ 南京路 ”、“ 淮海路 ” 弗同嗰是，箇搭有交关私人嗰，小嗰店；而 “ 南京路 ”、“ 淮海路 ” 就是一些国际化嗰、比较大嗰商店。

阿拉现在走到一嗰十字路口浪向，就是进到了 “ 长春路 ”。“ 长春 ” 嘞中文里就是永远是春天嗰感觉。我想想其实箇嗰名字老有诗意嗰。弗象我现在蹲嘞嘞地方，就只是用号码来表示嗰，比方讲几弄几号。而箇搭叫 “ 长春路 ”，侬现在可以看到箇搭，今朝天气老好，而且觉着可以一边走一边就感觉到我小嗰辰光是哪能介生活或者哪能长大嗰（氛围）。

“ 四川北路 ” 以前曾经是上海很繁华的一条路。我想，仅次于 “ 南京西路 ”“ 淮海路 ”，仅次于那两条路。而且，这里以前，像现在也是，平常时候还是有许多人过来逛，这里和 “ 南京路 ”、“ 淮海路 ” 不同的是，这里有许多私人的小店；而 “ 南京路 ”、“ 淮海路 ” 就是一些国际化的比较大的商店。 ”Sìchuān Běi Lù” used to be a very prosperous street in Shanghai. I think [ 长春路上右转 ] it’s second only to “Nánjīng Xī Lù” “Wēihǎi Lù”. Before, and as it still is 我们现在走到一个十字路口，就是走 now, there are still many people who 进了 “ 长春路 ”。“ 长春 ” 在中 come here to wander around. This area 文里就是永远是春天的感觉。我想想 compared to “Nánjīng Xī Lù” and 其实这个名字很有诗意的。不像我现 “Wēihǎi Lù” are different. There are 在住的地方，都是用号码来表示的， many small independent shops here 比如说，几弄几号。而这里叫 “ 长 while on “Nánjīng Lù” and “Wēihǎi Lù” 春路 ”，你可以看到这里，今天天 they have some bigger, more 气很好，我们可以一边走一边就感觉 international shops. 到我小的时候是怎样生活或者怎么长大的氛围。 [Turn right on Chángchūn Lù.]

现在阿拉看到嗰就是 “ 长春路 341

我们现在看到的就是 “ 长春路 341

[ 长春路上右转 ]

are

now

approaching

an 6

Changchun Lu 号 ” 、 “343 号 ” ，箇搭一块老早呒没嘎高，现在阿拉可以看到是四层楼嗰，是该种红砖瓦，箇外墙、屋顶侪是比较欧式嗰，比较西式嗰箇种样子，我弗晓得记得伊老早是做啥嗰，但伊现在看起来比老早好交关了！我刚才还看到，比方讲，伊箇一块现在属于 “ 保护 ” 起来，畀别人参观嗰箇种样子。

号 ”、“343 号 ”，这里以前没有这么高，我们现在可以看到是四层楼的，外面是那种红砖瓦，这外墙和屋顶都是比较欧式的，比较西式的这种样子，我不记得它以前是什么样子的，但它现在比以前看起来好许多了！我刚才还看到，比如说，它这一块现在属于 “ 保护 ” 起来，让别人参观的这种样子。

intersection, and walking onto “Chángchūn Lù”. “Chángchūn” in Chinese evokes a feeling of eternal springtime. Now that I think about it, this name is actually very poetic. Not like where I live right now, where all the houses are represented by numbers – for example, which block or unit number. Here you can see this is just called “Chángchūn Lù”. The 比方阿拉可以看看箇搭，现在箇搭叫比如我们可以看看这里，现在这里 weather is very good today. As we walk 作 “ 长春路老建筑 ”，伊（铭牌）叫 “ 长春路老建筑 ”，它（铭牌） we can start to feel the air of what life 讲嗰是 “ 伊嘞 1975 年嗰辰光，从四写的是 “ 它在 1975 年的时候，从四 was like when I was growing up. 层加造到六层，是有英国风格嗰清水层加建至六层，是有英国风格的清水砖墙，还有一些荷兰装饰手法砖墙，还有一些荷兰装饰手法 We are now looking at “No. 341 …”，阿拉现在看到箇搭建筑侪是建 …”，我们现在看到的建筑都是建于 Chángchūn Lù” and “No. 343”. [The 于二十世纪三十年代之前，侪是一些二十世纪三十年代之前，都是一些很 buildings] didn’t used to be this tall 老老嗰房子，而且 … 为啥现在看到老的房子，而且 … 为什么我们现在 here. We can now see four-storey ones, 嗰畀老早弗一样呢？箇块铭牌上写看到的和以前不一样呢？这块铭牌上 redbrick on the outside, with outer 嘞 “2004 年辰光，‘ 四川北路街道写着 “2004 年时，‘ 四川北路街 walls and rooftops that are more ’ 畀 ‘ 华东师范大学 ’ 合作，以道 ’ 与 ‘ 华东师范大学 ’ 合作，以 western, more European. I don’t 修旧如旧嗰原则，对箇块地区重新整修旧如旧的原则，对这块地区整治和 remember what it used to look like but 治畀修缮 …” 不过现在看起来还是修缮 …” 但是现在看起来还是很旧 it looks a lot better than before! For 蛮旧嗰我觉着可能会有交关外国人会的。我觉得可能会有许多外国人会喜 example, let’s take a look over here. 欢喜箇块地方，不过几年之前我印欢这块地方，但是几年之前我印象 This is now called “Chángchūn Lù Old 象当中，（箇搭）弗是箇嗰样子嗰。当中，这里不是这个样子的。 Architecture,” it (plaque) reads “In 阿拉现在再望前头走，箇条路就是我我们现在再往前走，这条路就是我以 1975, it grew from four to six stories, 老早蹲嘞嘞地方。可以看到箇些像别前住的地方。可以看到这些像别墅一 British-style brick walls, and Dutch 墅一样，比较大嗰房子，箇搭嗰绿化样比较大的房子，这里的绿化也是很 influences…”, the architecture we are 其实也是老好嗰。好的。 looking at right now were built in the 20th century, before the 1930s. They’re 7

长春路

Changchun Lu

长春路 [ 路口右转 ]

[ 路口右转 ]

[7:24] 阿拉现在嘞箇嗰路口是 … 阿拉现在其实是蹲嘞箇嗰小区里向了，不过阿拉可以看到街道末脚有几幢高楼大厦，其实该一幢高楼大厦就是我屋里向老早蹲嘞嘞地方。嘞该我七、八岁嗰辰光，大概十五、六年之前，阿拉屋里向箇一块就被拆脱了，然后造了比较高嗰楼。我也弗是老清爽，到底是政府还是有钞票人（买下了阿拉原先蹲嘞嘞箇块地），伊拉畀阿拉安置到了新嗰地方，比方 “ 松南 ”，等其他地方 … 就像阿拉屋里向被分到了一套房子，因为阿拉屋里向老早是交关人蹲嘞一道嗰，虽然是地方老小嗰，不过 … 我觉着交关屋里向人侪是箇样，屋里向人蹲嘞一道，就像交关其他国家一样，两代人、三代人侪蹲嘞一道，蹲嘞一道氛围侪老好，不过阿拉搬脱之后，几家人家就弗会蹲嘞一道了，虽然屋里向人还是会相互去看看，逢年过节侪会互相去看，不过我觉着箇关系就呒没老早箇么嗰好了。

[7:24] 我们现在的这个路口是 … 我们现在其实是进入这个小区里面了，但我们可以看到街的末端有几栋高楼大厦，那一栋高楼大厦就是我家以前住的地方。在我七、八岁的时候，大概十五、六年之前，我们家那一块就被拆掉了，然后造了比较高的楼。我也不知道是政府，还是谁让我们搬到了，或者是安置到了新的地方，比如 “ 松南 ”，等其他地方 … 就像我们家被分到了一套房子，因为我们家以前是许多人住在一起的，虽然是地方很小的，但是 … 我觉得在许多国家都是这样，一家人住在一起，就是两代人、三代人都住在一起，住在一起氛围都很好，但是我们搬走之后，就不住在一起了，虽然几家人还是会相互去看看，逢年过节都会去看看，但我觉得这关系就没有以前这么的好了。

我现在蹲嘞嘞地方就是像箇样嗰 “ 高楼大厦 ” 里向，我侪弗认得我嗰邻居，而且一道孛相嗰人也弗多。但像阿拉老早箇搭，大家岁数差弗多大嗰，就会嘞夏天一道出来孛

我现在住的地方就是像这样的 “ 高楼大厦 ” 里面，我都不认识我的邻居，而且一起玩的人也不多。但我们原先这里，大家年龄差不多大的，就会在夏天一起出来玩，天天晚上，很晚回家，我妈妈以前和我说过，她小的时候，他们就会拿一把躺椅，那个时候也没有空调，他们就会拿一把躺

all very old houses, and… why is it that what we see now is different from the past? This plaque says, “In 2004, ‘Sìchuān Běi Lù Street’ and ‘Hua Dong Shi Fan University’ partnered up, their principle was to restore and conserve, to repair and restore this area…” But it still looks very old now. I feel that many foreigners will probably like this area, but in my memory it wasn’t like this a few years ago. [Turn right at the end of the block.]

[7:24] Let’s keep walking forward, this is the street where I used to live on. You can see these slightly bigger houses that resemble villas, the landscaping here is also pretty good. The entrance of this street… actually we are entering a residential area but we can see a few high-rise buildings at the end of the street. That building used to be where my family lived. When I was about seven or eight, about 15 or 16 years ago, the area around our house got demolished and they built taller buildings on top. I don’t know if it was the government or whom it was that told us to move, or if they 10

Changchun Lu 相，天天夜道就老晚回屋里向，阿拉姆妈老早畀我讲过，伊小嗰辰光，伊拉就会拿一把躺椅，该嗰辰光也呒没空调，伊拉就会拿把躺椅，就睏嘞露天，困嘞外头。阿拉姆妈小嗰辰光就喜欢夜道出去孛相，该辰光阿拉外公外婆就困嘞外头，阿拉姆妈就先假装困着了，等阿拉外公外婆困着嘞，伊就去寻伊嗰小朋友孛相去了，然后第二天早上回来嗰辰光就再困到箇躺椅上，伊就畀我讲箇些老有趣嗰事情。阿拉现在还是能看到几幢老嗰房子，有可能是那些弗愿意被拆迁嗰人 … 其实有辰光还是可以做到嗰有些事情，要是真嗰弗想拆，其他人还是拿侬呒没有办法嗰。我有辰光想想阿拉外公外婆其实真嗰够好人，伊拉也呒没想太多，我想到要是伊拉弗搬嗰话，阿拉交关人家屋里向，我屋里向里嗰交关人，命运侪会弗一样嗰。。。。。。就比方阿拉外婆，伊搬到新房子之后就老是想，就畀我讲想回到原来嗰地方，想回到 “ 长春路 ” 哪能哪能嗰，而且伊蹲嘞新房子老弗开心，虽然新房子里老清爽，要水有水要电有电，不过伊就是过嘞弗开心，箇些白花花嗰墙头，而且也呒没啥人，因为老早嘞箇搭有交关畀伊一样年纪嗰人，经常串串门，但伊到了新嗰房子箇搭又呒没朋友 … 整 11

椅，就睡在露天，睡在外面。我妈妈小的时候就喜欢晚上出去玩。那时候我外公外婆就睡在外面，我妈妈就先装作睡着了，等我外公外婆睡着了，她就去找她的小朋友玩去了，然后第二天早上回来的时候就再睡到这躺椅上，她就和我说这些很有趣的事情。我们现在还是能看到几栋老的房子，有可能是那些不愿意被拆迁的人 … 其实有时候还是能做到的。有些事情，如果真的不想拆，别人还是拿你没有办法的。我有时候想想我外公外婆其实真的够好人，他们也没想太多。我想到如果他们不搬的话，我们许多户人家，我家里的许多人，命运都会不一样的。。。。。就比如我外婆，她搬到新房子之后就很想念，就和我说想回到原来的地方，想回到 “ 长春路 ” 什么什么的，而且她住在新房子很不开心，虽然新房子里很干净，要水有水要电有电，但是她就是过得不开心，那些白花花的墙，而且也没什么人，因为以前在这里有许多和她一样年纪的人，经常串串门，但她到了这里又没有朋友 … 整天窝在家里和我外公两个人，看看电视什么的，身体状况就一直不好，后来又发生了 “ 脑梗 ”，神志很不清楚，人很难受。后来我就觉得我外婆这件事情很大程度就是因为我们搬出去这

relocated us to a new place like “Song Nan” or somewhere else… I believe we were allocated an apartment. There used to be many people living together in our house, even though it was really small, But… I feel that it is like this in many countries where an entire family live together. There could be two or three generations all living together. That atmosphere was wonderful but since the move, we don’t live together anymore and although we visit each other occasionally, like during Chinese New Year or other festivals, I feel that our relationships are not as strong as before. The place where I live now is a “hi-rise building” like this one. I don’t know my neighbors and I don’t hang out much with other people. Originally, people around the same age would hang out in the summer and go home very late every night. My mother told me that when she was little, they did not have any air conditioning. Instead, they would grab a deck chair and sleep outdoors under the sky. She loved going out at night when she was little. My grandparents would sleep outside and my mother would pretend

长春路

Changchun Lu

长春路天窝嘞嘞屋里向畀我外公两嗰人，看看电视什么嗰，身体状况就一直弗好，后来又生了 “ 脑梗 ”，神志老弗清爽，人老难过，后头我就觉着阿拉外婆箇桩事体，老大程度就是因为阿拉搬出去箇桩事体，影响到伊了。我就老长时间去想箇桩事体，侬讲箇城市发展对人嗰影响是好是坏？因人而异的。交关生活水平上升了，不过侬人畀人之间嗰情感联系还是难以割舍嗰，并弗是侬物质条件好了侬就会更加开心嗰，我就觉着弗是箇嗰样子。

[13:16] 阿拉现在看到嗰箇幢伊拉叫

做 “ 红叶大厦 ”.“ 红叶大厦 ”，我看起来就老高老高，阿拉要抬头才能看到顶。箇搭大概有二十几层，快三十层嗰样子。阿拉可以从外头就看到，箇搭应该是属于比较高档嗰社区，屋里向家家侪有空调，看得出箇房子是老大嗰，而且 “ 四川路 ” 箇嗰地方离各嗰商业区侪是老近嗰。所以箇搭嗰房子应该是可以卖到老贵老贵。我也弗晓得阿拉被分畀阿拉房子辰光，是弗是拿到了公平嗰价钱。是弗是该嗰辰光能值介些多钞票，要是，我想要是阿拉当初留下来了，要嘞箇搭嗰房子会是哪能样子。老早箇搭是一大片，就是箇幢楼嘞嗰地方，老早一大片侪是比较低矮嗰房子，二

件事情影响到她了。我用很长时间去想这件事情，你说这城市发展对人的影响是好是坏？许多人生活水平上升了，但是人和人之间的联系还是难以割舍的，并不是你的物质条件好了，你就会更加开心的，我就觉得不是这个样子。

to be sleeping then sneak out once they were asleep to go play with her little friends. She would come back in the morning the next day and sleep on the same deck chair. These were the interesting stories she would share with me.

[13:16] 我们现在看到的这栋他们叫 Today we can still see a few old houses, 做 “ 红叶大厦 ”，“ 红叶大厦 ”，我看起来就很高很高，我们要抬头才能看到顶。这里大概有二十几层，快三十层了。我们可以从外面就看到，这里应该是属于比较高档的社区，家家户户都有空调，看得出这房子是很大的，而且 “ 四川路 ” 这个地方离各个商业区都是很近的。所以这里的房子应该是可以卖到很贵很贵。我也不知道我们被分到的房子是不是拿到了公平的价钱 ? 是不是那个时候能值这么多钱？如果，我想如果我们留下来了，要了这里的房子会是怎么样。以前这里是一大片，就是这栋楼在的地方，以前一大片都是比较低矮的房子，二层楼、三层楼，这儿完全是两种样子，虽然有时候看起来有些乱，但是你能闻到生活的气息。有许多的人，以前，上海人刷马桶、晾衣服等等，你能看见很多人，买菜回来也好，带着孩子玩也好，大人们买菜、烧菜、生炉子。那个时候还没有煤

perhaps there are a few people who are not willing to relocate… Actually it is still possible to do that. Sometimes, if you really don’t want it to be demolished, there’s nothing others can do about it. I think about my grandparents sometimes and think, they were really good people, simple folks. If we hadn’t moved, our families, the many people in my family, our lives would have been completely different. Take my grandma for example, she misses the old house a lot and tells me she wishes to go back to the original place, back to “Chángchūn Lù”. She said she was very unhappy living in the new house even though it was very clean and there was running water and electricity 24/7. The stark walls made her unhappy and she didn’t have any friends here. At the old place there were many people around her 14

Changchun Lu 层楼、三层楼，该完全是两种样子，虽然有辰光看起来有些乱，不过侬就可以闻到生活嗰气息，有交关嗰人，比方：老早上海人捣马桶、晾衣裳等等，侬可以看到老多人，买菜回来也好，带嘞自家小人孛相也好，大人们买菜、烧菜、生炉子，该嗰辰光还呒没煤气，屋里向生嗰炉子，用柴爿烧嗰该种，看得到交关人忙忙碌碌嗰，老有生活气息；现在去看到箇些高楼大厦，侬从外头根本看弗到人，一点生活嗰气息侪呒没，像一嗰死脱嗰城市一样，根本看弗出啥物事，我也弗晓得箇搭是啥样子嗰人蹲嘞箇搭。我就觉着老可惜嗰，交关上海人比方：十年、二十年前是啥样子 ? 其实只有嘞箇搭真正生活过嗰人侪晓得。阿拉现在可以看到，嘞高楼大厦旁边浪向嗰是 “ 长春路 101 弄 ”，箇搭是一嗰 “ 福馨宾馆 ”，“ 福星宾馆 ”，老早是肯定呒没有箇嗰。“ 福馨宾馆 ” 旁边是六层楼嗰房子，老早只是一、两层楼嗰房子，肯定是新造嗰，估计有靠二十年辰光了，对面也是差弗多嗰情况，是五层、六层楼嗰房子。我记得老早对面有交关小店，而且还是有人蹲嗰。现在箇搭是 “ 长春路 85 号 ”，箇搭其实是我老早一嗰朋友嗰屋里向，是我一嗰老好嗰一嗰朋友屋里向，现在伊拉搬 15

气，大家就生炉子，用木柴烧的那种。看得到许多人忙忙碌碌的；现在去看到这些高楼大厦，你从外面根本看不到人，一点生活的气息都没有，像一个死掉的城市一样。根本看不出什么，我也不知道这里是什么样子的人住在这里。我就觉得挺可惜的，许多上海人不知道上海十年、二十年前是什么样子，其实只有在这里真正生活过的人才知道。我们现在可以看到，在高楼大厦旁边的是 “ 长春路 101 弄 ”，这里是一个 “ 福馨宾馆 ” 但以前是肯定没有这个的。“ 福馨宾馆 ” 旁边是六层楼的房子，以前只是两层楼的房子，肯定是新造的，估计有近二十年了，对面也是差不多的情况，是五层、六层楼的房子。我记得以前对面有许多小店，而且还是住人的那种。现在这里是 “ 长春路 85 号 ”，这里其实是我以前一个朋友的家里，是我一个很好的朋友家，现在他们搬到离我家很近的，就在 “ 江湾镇 ” 这里，他们家房子很大，因为他们家以前是两层楼，这一块都是他们家，他们就被分到了很大的一个房子，可能是三室两厅还是怎么样的，我记得我以前经常去他们家玩的。现在这里的房子还在，但是好像换人了，下面开了商店。

age and they would go around visiting one another. Now, grandma and granddad spend most of their time cooped up at home, watching television or something. She wasn’t in the pink of health and later on suffered from ‘cerebral infarction’ where she became delirious. She was miserable. I felt that the move played a major role in what happened to grandma and spent a lot of time thinking about it. Do you think city development affects people positively or negatively? The standard of living may have improved for many people but interpersonal relationships cannot be dismissed. An increase in material comfort doesn’t necessarily make you happier, I believe it doesn’t.

[13:16] They call this building “Hong Ye Tower” and it is so tall that you have to tilt your head back to see the top of it. There are over twenty floors, almost thirty. We can tell from the exterior that this is a higher-end community, there is air conditioning in every household and the houses are all very big. In addition, this area “Sìchuān Lu” is close to various business districts so the houses here

长春路

Changchun Lu

长春路到离我屋里向老近嗰，就嘞该 “ 江湾镇 ” 箇搭，不过伊拉屋里向房子老大，因为伊拉屋里向老早是两层楼，整块侪是伊拉屋里向，伊拉就被分到了老大嗰一嗰房，可能是三室两厅或者哪能样子，我记得我老早经常去伊拉屋里向孛相嗰。现在箇搭一块嗰房子还嘞，不过好像调人了，下面开了商店。

[17:18] 阿拉再望前走嗰话 … 箇一块

老有劲嗰，对我来讲是块老有意思嗰地方，箇搭是 “ 长春路 79 号 ”，现在是 “ 上海虹口制衣有限公司 ”，箇搭是阿拉姆妈老早上班嗰地方。因为该辰光我还呒没读书，所以伊就专门带我来，一道去上班，该嗰辰光我还老小 … 伊拉是做衬衫嗰，我就畀带到车间里，因为伊要上班，我呒没啥物事可以孛相嗰，我就自己一嗰人孛相，伊拉箇搭有交关衣服堆嘞一道，堆得像山一样，老高老高嗰山，我就最喜欢迓嘞里向，迓嘞一堆棉布里，感觉老好老好，该嗰辰光我可以嘞箇搭孛相上一天嗰样子，有辰光就迓嘞里向，阿拉姆妈来寻我嗰辰光我就弗出来，我就迓嘞里向 “ 挖洞 ” 之类嗰（孛相），就虚拟嗰想象有坏人攻打 …… 啥物事嗰。箇嗰衬衫厂还嘞，应该是还嘞工作。因为阿拉搬脱了，所以我姆妈已经老长时间弗

probably go for very high prices. I

[17:18] 我们再往前走的话 … 这一块 don’t know if we got a fair deal with

很有趣的，对我来说是块很有意思的地方，这里是 “ 长春路 79 号 ”，现在是 “ 上海虹口制衣有限公司 ”，这里是我妈妈以前上班的地方。因为那时候我还没有读书，所以她就经常带我来，一起去上班，那个时候我还很小 … 他们是做衬衫的，我就被带到车间里，因为她要上班，我没有什么可以玩的，我就只有一个人玩，他们那里有许多衣服堆在一起，堆得像山一样，很高、很高的，我就最喜欢窝在里面，窝在一堆棉布里，感觉很好很好，那个时候我可以在那里玩上一天，有时候就躲在里面，妈妈来找我的时候我就不出来，我就一个人在里面玩 “ 挖洞 ” 之类的，就虚拟的想象有敌人攻打什么的。这个衬衫厂还在，应该是还在生产。因为我们搬走了，所以我妈妈已经很长时间不在这里上班了。后来她在其他许多地方上班，她是属于我们所说的买断工龄 —— 在中国你在一个岗位，工作了很长时间，比如三十年，公司就不能辞退你，因为辞退的话，要赔偿给你很大一笔钱，因为我妈妈也工作了差不多近三十年，厂里就和我妈妈说，我们付你一笔钱，和你划清（结束雇佣）了关系，那时候我妈妈就接受了。我想想也对，我们现在看看这

this apartment. Was it worth this much money back then? What would have happened if we had stayed on and wanted a house here? It used to be a big plot of land where this tower now occupies, full of low-rise houses that were two to three-stories tall. It is completely different now. Although it looked quite messy at times, you could smell the living spirit in the air. In the past there were many people, you could see Shanghainese washing chamber pots, hanging their laundry out to dry, coming home from grocery shopping, taking their children out to play while adults cooked and started fires for stoves. There was no gas back then, everyone had a log burner stove. You could see people going about their own businesses. Now, you hardly see a soul outside, there is hardly any signs of life, like a dead town. You don’t see anything. I wonder what kind of people live here. It’s a shame many Shanghainese do not know what it was like ten or twenty years ago. Only those who used to live here would really know. 18

Changchun Lu 嘞箇搭上班了。后来伊就嘞其它不同地方上班，伊是属于阿拉所讲嗰，买断工龄 —— 嘞中国，侬（嘞一嗰岗位）工作了老长时间，比方侬工作了三十年，公司就弗能辞退侬，因为辞退嗰话要赔偿给侬老大一笔钞票，因为阿拉姆妈也工作了差弗多有三十年，箇厂里人就畀阿拉姆妈讲，阿拉付侬一笔钱，畀侬划清（结束雇佣）了关系，该辰光阿拉姆妈就接受了，我想想也对，阿拉现在看看箇厂是一间老戆嗰厂，要是让阿拉姆妈一直嘞箇搭工作是弗可能嗰，其实后来伊嘞屋里向炒炒股票也好，嘞外头 … 其实伊做过老多工作，售票员、超市收银员里向做 … 等等交关工作，我觉着虽然也弗是啥高档嗰工作，不过我觉嘞畀上海箇嗰城市一样，箇嗰城市嘞发展，人有更加多嗰选择，人也变嗰越来越自由，对于上海人来讲，侬可以做交关多嗰事，侬弗必要一辈子窝嘞一嗰厂里。箇是好是坏，对于一嗰城市来讲是好嗰，但讲弗清爽对一嗰人嗰生活是好是坏。我小辰光嗰印象箇嗰厂是老大老大嗰，不过现在看起来根本呒没嘎高，该辰光我老小老小，阿拉看到里向其实一切老简陋，里向其实有交关（我嗰）回忆，人老矮嗰扶嘞墙嗰感觉，觉着蛮有趣嗰。 19

家厂是一间很破的厂，如果让我妈妈一直在这里工作是不可能的，其实后来她在家炒炒股票也好，在外面 … 其实她做过很多工作，售票员、收银员 … 等等许多工作，我觉得虽然也不是什么高档的工作，但是我觉得和上海这个城市一样，这个城市在发展，人也变的越来越自由，对于上海人来说，你可以做许许多多的事，不必要窝在一个厂里。这是好还是坏，对于一个城市来说是好的，但说不清楚对一个人的生活是好还是坏。在小时候印象中，这个厂是很大，但是现在看起来根本没有那么高，那时候我很小、很小，其实现在我们看到里面其实很简陋，里面其实有许多我的回忆。。。。。人矮矮的扶着墙的感觉，觉得挺有趣的。

Next to the tower is “Chángchūn Lù Block 101” where there is a “Fùxīng Guesthouse”. It most certainly didn’t exist previously. Next to “Fùxīng Guesthouse” is a six-story house, it used to be two-story so this is definitely new, maybe close to twenty years ago. The situation on the opposite side is more or less the same with some five or six-story houses. I remember there used to be several small shops across the street and some of them were shops where the owners lived. Over here, this is “#85 Chángchūn Lù”. It used to be the home of a very good friend of mine. They have since moved to somewhere very close to where I live in “Jiāngwān Zhēn”. They were allocated a very big house because this area used to be their house and they had a big twostory house, with something like three bedrooms with two living rooms. I remember I used to hang out at their place. The house is still here but I think someone else is living in it now and there is a shop downstairs.

[21:40] 我们再走下去就是 “ 长春路 92 号 ”，它这里是个幼儿园，就是我小时侯的幼儿园。离我妈妈厂很近，只有十步路。现在这里竟然还是一个幼儿园，它叫做 “ 四川北路幼儿园 ”，这里就是，我上幼儿园的地方。现在看起来和我印象当中的完全两样，它变得更加漂亮了更加的色彩艳丽了，就像许多的现代化幼儿园一样了：刷的橙色的外墙，我们也能 [17:18] Up ahead, this is a very 够看到，墙上刷了许多可爱的卡通形 interesting area to me. This is “#79 象，恐龙。。。。还有各种玩具，我 Chángchūn Lù”, it is now the

长春路

Changchun Lu

长春路

[21:40] 阿拉再走下去就是 “ 长春路 92 号 ”，伊现在是嗰幼儿园，就是我老早读嗰幼儿园。离我姆妈厂老近，就十步远。现在竟然箇搭还是一嗰幼儿园，伊叫做 “ 四川北路幼儿园 ”，箇搭就是我老早上幼儿园嗰地方。现在看起来畀我印象当中嗰完全两样，伊变得更加漂亮了，更加嗰色彩艳丽了，就像现在交关嗰现代化幼儿园一样了：刷嗰橙色得外墙，阿拉也能够看到，然后墙上刷了交关可爱的卡通形象 — 恐龙，还有各种玩具，阿拉小辰光根本呒没箇些物事，阿拉就相当于嘞一片空地上孛相。我对箇片地方还是蛮有感情嗰。 [23:04] 阿拉现在也能看到，嘞箇幼儿园边浪向还是嘞拆，我认为可能是修缮，箇搭是老低嗰两层楼嗰房子，可能是修修好吧？箇搭一块地方变嗰有些奇怪，箇嗰小区有交关房子还是老矮嗰，不过所有嗰背景侪是箇种高楼大厦，就像被高楼大厦笼罩嗰一片，老奇怪嗰存在，我觉嘞箇块地方可能也弗能再坚持多久，可能过几年箇块地区就要被完全拆掉了。因为侬也可以看到，箇周围（高楼大厦）有种一步步逼近侬嗰感觉，我觉着早晚箇些低嗰矮嗰房子就会畀拆脱，全部造现代化嗰，高楼大厦，弗管是商用还是住宅。我觉着肯定是一笔老好嗰

们小时侯，根本没有这些东西，我们 “Shanghai Hongkou Garment 就相当于在一片空地上玩耍。我对这 Manufacturing Limited Company” 片地方还是蛮有感情的。 where my mother used to work. When I hadn’t started school yet so she would [23:04] 我们现在也能看到，这家幼 bring me along with her to work. I was 儿园边上还是在拆除，我认为可能是 very young then. They make shirts. 修缮可能是（拆除），这里是很低的 There was nothing much for me to play 两层楼的房子，可能是修修好吧？这 with in the workshop while she 里一块地方变的有些奇怪，这个小区 worked so I would play by myself. 有许多房子还是很矮的，但是所有的 There were piles of clothes stacked like 背景都是这种高楼大厦，就像是被高 mountains. They were very tall and I 楼大厦笼罩着，一种格格不入的感 loved snuggling in them, it felt really 觉。我觉得这块地区可能也不能再坚 nice snuggling amongst piles of cotton 持多久，可能过不了多久，三、五年 fabric and I could stay there an entire 后这块地区就要被完全拆掉了。因为 day. Sometimes I would play hide and 你也可以看到，这周围的高楼大厦有 seek with my mother. I would pretend I 一步步逼近你的感觉，我觉得很快这 was an excavator and that there were 些低的、矮的房子就会被拆掉，造起 enemies attacking or stuff like that. 现代化的那些大厦，商用还是住宅。 This shirt factory is still around, 我觉得肯定是一笔很好的收益。但是 probably still in production. My 后来的人，就再也不知道上海本地人 mother hasn’t worked here in a very 以前是如何生活的了。我现在已经很 long time because we moved. She 少看到在其他地方，还有像我小时候 worked in several other places later on. 的这种生活氛围，很少、很少地方 In China, when you’ve worked for a 有。我觉得现在，还能看到一些老上 very long time for a company, about 30 海的影子。可能再过十年，来到上海 years for example, the company can’t 的人，就完全看不到一点老上海的影 fire you. If they did, they would have to 子了。将来所有现代化的东西都能在 give you a very large sum of money. 其他任何一个城市里看见，所以对我 Since my mother had worked with 来说，至少我亲眼目睹了这个过程， them for over thirty years, they offered 我知道以前这里是什么样子的，不管 to give her a sum of money to end their 22

Changchun Lu 收益。不过啥人下趟再来嗰话，就再怎么说我对这片地方还是很有感情 relationship. My mother accepted it. I 也弗晓得上海本地人老早是哪能生活的。 think she made the right move because 了，我现在已经老少看到了该其它地 looking at this dilapidated factory now, 方，还有像我小时侯嗰箇种生活，老 there was no way she could have 少老少地方有。我觉着现在蹲嘞上海 continued working there. It’s actually 嗰人，还能看到一些老上海嗰影子， better that she played the stock market 可能再过十年来到上海（嗰人），就 from home later on. She has done 完全看弗到一点（老）上海嗰影子 many jobs; working as a ticket seller, a 了，所有现代化嗰物事侪能嘞，其 cashier, etc. Although they weren’t 他任何一嗰城市里看见，所以对我来 glamorous positions, I feel it is just like 讲，至少我亲眼目睹了箇嗰过程，我 the city of Shanghai– as the city 晓得箇搭老早是啥样子嗰，弗管哪能 develops, people have more freedom 讲我对箇片地方还是有些感情嗰。 and as a Shanghainese, there are many things you can do besides being cooped up in a factory. Is this good or bad? It is good for a city but I couldn’t say if it made living better or worse. In my mind, this factory was very big when I was a child but looking at it now, it’s actually not that big. I was very, very young. In fact, if we looked inside now, the conditions would be so simple and crude. It contained many of my memories. A very short person leaning against the wall, it was interesting.

[21:40] Up ahead is “#92 Chángchūn Lù”. There’s the kindergarten I used to attend when I was young. It was a stone’s throw away from the factory where my mother used to work. I can’t

长春路

Changchun Lu

长春路 believe it still is a kindergarten now, they call it “Sìchuān Běi Lù Kindergarten”. It looks completely different from what I remembered it to be. It is much more beautiful and brightly colored, just like many modernized kindergartens– orange walls on the outside with lots of cute cartoon characters, dinosaurs… and all sorts of toys. We didn’t have stuff like that when we were kids and all we had was an empty space for us to play in. I still have some feelings for this place.

[23:04] We can also see that the area near the kindergarten is being demolished at the moment. Maybe it is under renovation, or being demolished. These are very low twostory houses, maybe they are just doing it up. This area is kind of strange now – there are many low-rise houses in this residential area but all sorts of towering hi-rise buildings form the background, like a square peg in a round hole. I don’t think this area is going to last very long. It will probably be completely demolished in another three to five years. You can see how these tall buildings seem to be closing in. I believe that these low-rise buildings will be demolished very 26

Changchun Lu quickly to make space for those hi-rise buildings, residential or commercial. There must be a lot gains but for people in the future, they will never know how local Shanghainese used to live. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very rare to see another place that encompasses the liveliness Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d experienced as a child, very rare. We can still catch glimpses of the old Shanghai now but maybe in another ten years, people who visit Shanghai will not be able to see even a hint of the old Shanghai. We will be able to see modernized things in any city in the future but to me, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve witnessed this entire process. I know what this place was like and I will always have feelings for this place.

长春路