Growing Up With Shanghai- Wenmiao Lu | 与沪成长- 文庙路

Growing Up With Shanghai 与沪成长 Wenmiao Lu 文庙路

Recorded and Edited by Terence LLoren Photos by Shen Yi Shanghainese Transcription by Jenny Zhang

Growing Up With Shanghai- Wenmiao Lu, No. 13, June 2016.

Published by BIVOUAC RECORDING. This book (contents, images, and design) is Copyright 2016 Bivouac Recording and may not be reproduced without permission. The audio is released under the Creative Commons License BY-NC-SA and is free to download and share as long as they are: credited to 'Bivouac Recording', are for non-commercial use, and must be under the same license if used in your work. Bivouac Recording still retains the copyright of these recordings. 'Growing Up WIth Shanghai' is a Bivouac Recording project. info@bivouacrecording.com http://www.bivouacrecording.com 录音师，编辑：罗天瑞 摄影师：沈祎 吴语译音：张依群 与 沪 成 长 — 文 庙 路 ，2016 年 6 月 。BIVOUAC RECORDING 出版。本刊物为双月刊。该书版权属于。未 经 许 可 不 得 翻 印 。 该 音 频 在 Creative Commons License BY–NC–ND 下发布。 该音频均可免费下载与分享，但 必须符合以下条件：标明版权属于 ‘Bivouac Recording’ 所有；非商业性用途；不进行任意修改。Bivouac Recording 仍保留此作品的版权。与沪成长是 Bivouac Recording 的一 个项目。在中国上海记录设计。

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关于与沪成长

About GUWS

“ 与沪成长 ” 是一系列与上海年轻 人一起完成的 “ 声音漫步之旅 ”。 他们生于 80 和 90 年代，这些语音不 仅记载了他们对成长之地的亲切回忆 也从讲述者的角度对地理地点讲行过 去和现在的对比。同时讲述者会通过 本身的成长经历也反映了过去 30 年 里上海的讲步与发展。这些实地录音 由讲述人操沪语完成同时录音也捕捉 纪录到当日真实的环境声音供世界各 地的听者感同身受。

“Growing Up With Shanghai” is a series of soundwalks with young Shanghainese who were born and raised during the rapid modernization of their city in the 1980s and 1990s.

These recordings capture not only their most intimate memories as they grew up, but, when contrasted with the present state of each location, also reveal the progress and growth Shanghai has undergone in the past 30 years. The current sounds of Shanghai, including that of the Shanghainese dialect, create a comprehensive present-day audio document that future generations can experience.

Wenmiao Lu

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文庙路

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简介

Introduction

本书为《与沪成长 — 文庙路》语音 文档的辅助文本。书中记录语音文档 中对话译音，对照英文翻译，地点照 片以及与语音文档相符的路线图。

This book is a supplement to the Growing Up With Shanghai- Wénmiào Lù audio track. It contains dialog transcripts and translations, area photographs, and a route map.

用触屏手机下载音频，请扫描左边的 二维码。如已用触屏手机阅读本文， Please download the audio for this 请点击二维码继续阅读全文。 walk by using your mobile device to scan the QR codes on the left. If you are *（ 手 机 版 使 用 Adobe Acrobat 阅 读 already using a mobile device to read 器） this, click the QR codes to follow the links. 本 书 每 页 文 字 顺 序：沪 语 译 音 （左）；普通话翻译（中 )；因为翻译 * (Use Adobe Acrobat reader for mobile.) （右） The three transcriptions / translations 如有兴趣与我们互动，请将您对这段 in this book follow this format on each 路线上的任何感想，照片通过扫描左 page with text: Shanghainese 边二维码快捷上传到我们的官方微博 transcription (left column); Putonghua 和脸书页。 translation (center column); English translation (right column).

As you walk, feel free to upload your thoughts and images onto the project pages on Facebook or Weibo by scanning the corresponding QR codes on the left.

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Wenmiao Lu 起点 : 中华路和文庙路交界东北角。 时 间：2010 年 7 月 8 日 上 午 11： 09。

[0:03] 阿拉现在嘞文庙，箇搭我已 经有蛮长时间呒没来过，感觉上变化 还是蛮大嗰。因为我小辰光蹲嘞嘞离 箇搭弗算很近，但是过来蛮方便嗰， 初中、高中都蹲嘞箇搭附近读嗰。我 小辰光，箇搭是南市区，文庙属于箇 搭标志性嗰地方。当时走过 273 号， 是一片卖玩偶之类嗰商店，箇一带有 几个特色：一个是书店，一个是卖小 商品嗰商店。

[1:00] 现在走过嗰是：现在叫上海市 黄浦区青少年活动中心，老早是南市 区少年宫，嘞箇搭我从小一直嘞箇搭 嗰地方，老早嘞箇搭读书啊，上奥数 班。。。，以后有一段辰光嘞箇搭开 会、参加一些活动等，现在箇搭门也 关了该。

[1:29] 箇搭附近有一个中学叫：敬业 中学。我老早嘞离箇搭大概 15 分钟 左右（路程）嗰大同中学读书嗰。经 常礼拜五放学早嗰话，会畀同学一道 过来，因为箇搭有书店，还有小姑娘 蛮喜欢嗰商店好来兜兜。讲到书店就 走 到 273 号 ？274 号 ？ ？273 号 ， 箇 3

起点 : 中华路和文庙路交界东北角。

Starting point: Begin at the north corner of ‘Zhōnghuá Lù’ [ 中华路 ] and 时 间：2010 年 7 月 8 日 上 午 11： ‘Wénmiào Lù’ [ 文庙路 ].

09。 Recorded July 8, 2010 at 11:09 A.M. [0:03] 我们现在在文庙，这里我已 经有很长时间没来过了，感觉上变化 [0:03] We are now on Wénmiào Lù. 还是很大的。因为我小时候住在离这 The Wénmiào Lù Temple is quite an 里不算是很近，但是过来 很方便的 icon here in the Nánshí District. It’s 地方，初中、高中都在这附近读的。 been a long time since I’ve been here, 我小时候，这里是南市区。文庙属于 so I can tell a lot of changes have taken 这 里 标 志 性 的 地 方 。 刚 刚 走 过 273 place. I didn’t live near this area, but it 号，是一家卖玩偶之类的商店，这一 was convenient to come here from 带有几个特色：一个是书店，一个是 where I lived, and my middle and high 卖小商品的商店。 schools were nearby. When I was a little girl, I would always walk passing [1:00] 现在走过的是：现在叫上海市 the store at #273 Wénmiào Lù, which 黄浦区青少年活动中心 1，原来是南 specialized in toys and novelties. There 市区少年宫，在这里我从小一直在这 were really two main features here, the 里的地方，以前在这里读书啊，上奥 book market and the gadget stores. 数班。。。，以后有一段时间在这里 开会、参加一些活动等，现在这里门 [1:00] [Walk east on Wénmiào Lù.] We 也关着。 are now walking passing the Huángpǔ Activity Center for Adolescents [ 上 海 [1:29] 这里附近有一个中学叫：敬业 市 黄 浦 区 青 少 年 活 动 中 心 ] 1, which 中 学 2。 我 以 前 在 离 这 里 大 概 15 分 used to be a kid’s activity center of the 钟 左 右 （ 路 程 ） 的 大 同 中 学 3 读 书 Nánshí District. The door is closed now. 的。经常周五放学早的话，会和同学 I used to attend classes for the Olympic 一起过来，因为这里有书店，还有小 Math Competition [ 奥 数 班 ] here. I 姑娘很喜欢的商店可以来兜兜。讲到 also attended some meetings here and 书 店 就 走 到 273 号 ？274 号 ？ ？273 took part in some activities.

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文庙路 片书店老早会一直来买点教辅、小说 号，这家书店以前会一直来买点教 [1:29] There is a middle school nearby, 之类嗰。 辅、小说之类的。 called ‘Jìngyè Middle School’ [ 敬 业 中 学 ] 2. My school is a 15 minute walk [2:04] 箇 搭 人 还 是 蛮 多 嗰 ， 箇 搭 生 [2:04] 这 里 人 还 是 很 多 的 ， 这 里 生 from here. It was called ‘Dàtóng Middle 意一直蛮好，主要也是学生来买点 意很好，主要也就是学生来买点书。 School’ [ 大同中学 ] 3. When it came to 书。 Friday, I would come here with my [2:34] 文 庙 实 际 以 前 还 有一个 很 大 classmates after school, since some [2:34] 文 庙 实 际 老 早 还 有一个 很 大 的特色就是拍大头贴。高中、初中时 book stores and gadget shops were 嗰特色就是拍大头贴。箇么 高中、 经常与同学一起没事做，会过来的拍 here, which attracted girls like me. 初中时经常畀同学一道呒没事做，会 张照，然后大家感到很开心的。现在 Here is the bookstore that I mentioned 经常过来嗰拍张照然后大家感到蛮开 很多商店因为马路整改等（原因）已 before.

We are now at 心嗰。现在蛮多商店因为马路整改等 经拆了，像现在走过的 245 号，249 273?…or…274?…It is 273. This is the （原因）已经拆脱嘞，像现在走过嗰 号这种店也是这里属于标志性的，还 bookstore that sold textbooks and 245 号箇种噢 249 号箇种店也是箇搭 有十字绣啊。。。商店。总的来讲小 novels 4. 属于蛮标志嗰，还有十字绣啊。。。 姑娘会来得多比较一点，男孩子可能 商店。总嗰来讲小姑娘会来得多比较 会对这里的动漫等比较感兴趣的。 [2:04] It’s still very popular among 多一点，男小囡可能会对箇搭嗰动漫 students who are the major customers 等比较感兴趣嗰。 [3:14] 文庙还是非常出名的小吃一条 here. 街 ， 比 如：这 里 买 的 烧 烤 等 ， 鸡 [3:14] 文庙还是非常出名嗰小吃一条 翅。。。基本上双休日，还有星期五 [2:34] In the past, another major 街 ， 比 方：箇 搭 买 嗰 烧 烤 等 ， 鸡 人很多的。更加出名的是前面一家 feature of Wénmiào Lù is taking 翅。。。基本上双休日，还有礼拜五 “ 西北郎烧烤 ”，待会儿会经过。 headshots. I would come here with my 人侪是人蛮多嗰。更加出名嗰是前头 friends during middle school and high 一家 “ 西北郎烧烤 ”，等脱一歇会 [3:43] 这里就是文庙了，文庙对我 school years, taking photos and killing 走过嗰。 来讲是属于特别是高中时候可以讲 time. But now, giving way to the road （是一个）非常难忘的地方，那时因 construction, some shops have been [3:43] 箇搭就是文庙了，文庙对我 为面临高考，复习功课等比较辛苦， torn down. Such stores like #245 [ 文庙 来讲特别是高中可以讲（是一个）非 基本上高中生在周六会在学校补课 楼 ] and #249 are also iconic, since they 常难忘嗰地方，箇辰光因为面临高 等，因为有时候看书，看书看得心情 offer hand–cross embroideries. In 考，复习功课等比较辛苦，基本上高 会烦躁的，我有时候会与朋友或一个 general, there are more girls in this 中生嘞周六侪会嘞学堂补课等，因为 人跑到里面来，因为里面的环境很好 area, while boys were more interested 8

Wenmiao Lu 有辰光看书 看书看得心情会烦躁 嗰，我有辰光会畀朋友或一嗰人跑到 里向来，因为里向嗰环境老好 ，畀 外面嗰热闹 熙熙攘攘嗰侪是人，或 者侪是老多商店老拥挤、嘈杂嗰 环 境相差老大嗰。里向有一只花园还有 一个小嗰池塘，有辰光会有三三两两 嗰游客进来，会参观一下里向物事。 另外考大学之前会畀朋友一道过来， 因为里向有求签嗰嘛，会大家约好写 好心愿，讲要考同一个大学或者考试 要考嘞好呀等，那伊写嘞红纸头上， 挂嘞嘞当时里向有几棵树上向，然后 求孔夫子保佑阿拉。最后还算是比较 顺利嗰吧。

与外面的熙熙攘攘的全是人，还有很 多商店很拥挤、嘈杂的环境相差很大 的。里面有一只花园还有一个小的池 塘，有时候会有三三两两的游客进 来，会参观一下里面东西。另外考大 学之前会与朋友一起过来，因为里面 有求签的嘛，会大家约好写好心愿， 讲要考同一个大学或者考试要考得好 呀等，写在红色纸上挂在 当时里面 有几棵树上，然后求孔夫子保佑我 们。最后还算是比较顺利的吧。 感觉孔夫子还是，很帮我们的忙。

看书，感觉是很好的一个让自己安静 下来的地方。进大学以后，反正每次 [5:20] 当有时周六上午蹲嘞学堂上 再过来，会再到文庙再来看看。 好课会过来随便吃点物事，然后蹲嘞 里向看看书，感觉是蛮好嗰一嗰让自 [5:52] 我记得当时写的字条，与我朋 己安静下来嗰地方。进大学以后，反 友故意将它挂得很高，唯恐被人看到 正每趟再过来辰光侪会再到文庙 再 或者时间长了会掉了，所以就将它绑 来看看。 在树的很上面，但后来再去找也没找 到，不知道在哪里了。 [5:52] 我记得老早写嗰字条畀我朋友 诚心拿伊挂嘞老高，常怕畀人家看到 [6:15] 这一带就是讲的吃的东西比较 或者辰光长了会落脱，所以就拿伊绑 多，像 “ 西北郎烧烤 ”、卖奶茶、 嘞树上嗰老上头，但是后头再去寻也 卖包子的地方有蛮多小的点心。 呒没寻到，弗晓得嘞该里了。 9

[3:14] Wénmiào Lù is also famous for

its snacks offered here, like barbecue and chicken wings. People would come here on Friday and at the weekends just to eat. ‘Xīběi Láng Barbecue’ is the most famous one, which we will pass later.

[3:43] Here we are at Wénmiào Lù Temple,

which

gives

me

an

[5:13] 考进大学之后，还过来还过愿 unforgettable memory. At that time,

[5:20] 当有时周六上午在学校上完课 [5:13] 考进大学之后，还过来还过愿 会过来随便吃点东西，然后在里面看 觉着孔夫子还是蛮帮阿拉嗰忙。

in the comic books.

high school students went to school on Saturday to have classes to prepare for the college entrance exams. After a tiring day of studying, we would get so frustrated and stressed. So I would I come here, alone or with my friends.

Wénmiào Lù Temple was so quiet and it gave you a feeling of comfort and tranquility, unlike the noisy and messy surroundings outside its walls. It was such a big contrast between the crowded shops and fussy environment outside. There is only a garden, a pond, and a few people wandering around inside– it’s just peaceful. Another thing I remember was that there were these prayer sticks which decide one’s fate and destiny. We wrote our best wishes

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[6:15] 箇一块就是讲嗰吃嗰物事比较 [6:36] 现在往左边走，这一条叫 “ 学 on red paper sticks– such as wishing 多，像 “ 西北郎烧烤 ”、卖奶茶、 工街 ”，也算是在文庙路上，旁边 卖包子嗰地方有蛮多小嗰点心。 有一个很大的书市，我记得很小的时 候，外公就带我到文庙的书市来兜， [6:36] 现在望左面走，箇一条叫 “ 学 这里面有杂志、还有书。。。一般全 工街 ”，也算是嘞文庙路上，旁边 是老师傅在摆摊，书也不贵，还会打 有一嗰老大嗰书市，我记得老小辰光 点折扣，小孩嘛买几本回家看会很高 外公就带我到文庙嗰书市来，兜里向 兴的。 有杂志、还有书。。。一般侪是老师 傅嘞摆摊，书也弗贵，还会打点折 [7:24] 这里一带的生活目前在上海来 扣，小人嘛买几本回家看会老开心 说是比较艰苦的，老城厢嘛 以前是 嗰。 南市区，刚才也看到了有阿姨在倒很 旧的马桶，现在上海实际上已经不常 [7:24] 箇 搭一带 嗰 生 活 目 前 嘞 上 海 见了，但在这里这种生活状况还是 来讲是比较艰苦嗰，老城厢嘛老早是 很普遍的。 南市区，刚刚也看到了有阿姨嘞倒老 旧嗰马桶，现在嘞上海实际上已经弗 [7:57] 现在走到了 “ 上海文庙书摊 汏看得到嘞，但嘞箇搭箇种生活状况 交易市场 ”4，里面的基本上书都是 还是蛮普遍嗰。 用平板车拉的。大概在我小时候文庙 是属于很出名的，基本上大家买书都 [7:57] 现在走到了 “ 上海文庙书摊 会想到这里，但是现在上海又造了很 交易市场 ”，里向嗰基本上书侪是 多大的书店，这里的生意， 相对没 用平板车拉嗰。大概嘞我小辰光文庙 以前好，可能有很多人会在这里，淘 书属于老出名嗰，基本上大家买书侪 点旧书 还有买杂志、漫画之类的东 会想到此地，但是现在上海又造了老 西。 多大嗰书店，箇搭嗰生意相对呒没老 早好了，可能有蛮多人会嘞箇搭淘点 [8:54] 在初中、高中时与同学一起在 旧书还有买杂志、漫画之类嗰物事。 这里兜过书店，有时有人会对我讲这 书大多数是盗版的，相对来讲比较便 [8:54] 嘞初中、高中时畀同学一道嘞 宜打点折扣，不知真的假的。但是我 箇搭兜过书店，有辰光有人会畀我讲 感觉比较幸运的是，这样一个书市到 11

that we would all go to university with all of our friends or just having a good result in the exam– and then hung them onto the tree as a prayer to God. As it turned out, our prayers came true in their own way.

[5:13] During my college years, I would still come back here since it seemed to be so helpful to me.

[5:20] The Wénmiào Lù Temple is a

perfect place. It helps people calm down a bit. I remember after school on Saturdays, I would eat some dinner and then read some books inside Wénmiào Lù Temple. Even after I entered University, I would still come back every once in a while to have this experience.

[5:52] I still remember that my friends

and I would deliberately hang the red paper sticks high on the tree next to the temple to prevent other people from taking them, or to protect them from dropping. But our efforts were no use– when we came back to look for them they were all gone.

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Wenmiao Lu

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文庙路

Footnotes

注脚

1) Wénmiào Lù # 273. [ 文庙路 273 号 ] 2) Pénglái Lù #345. [ 蓬莱路 345 号 ] 3) Nán Chē Zhàn Lù #353. [ 南 车 站 路

1) 文庙路 273 号。 2) 蓬莱路 345 号。 3) 南车站路 353 号。 4) Located between Mènghuā Lù and

353 号 ] 4) Located between Mènghuā Lù and Wénmiào Lù on Xuégōng Jiē.

Wénmiào Lù on Xuégōng Jiē.

5) 文庙路 159 号。 5) Large flat bed carts.

6) Literally meaning “Dream Flower Street” 7) Literally meaning “Pre–school Street” 8) #36 Xuégōng Jiē. [ 学宫街 36 号 ] 9) #159 Wénmiào Lù. [ 文庙路 159 号 ] 10) Literally meaning, ‘A lane with the width of a half circle’.

11) Literally meaning, ‘Willow River Road’.

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