BK Magazine 825

HOW HIGH CAN BANGKOK GET?

The city wonders when the smoke bubble will burst.

WHO’S IN CHARGE?

BK EDITORIAL

Managing Director Dietrich Neu

Managing Editor Tyler Roney

Deputy Editor Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

Senior Writer Porpor Leelasestaporn

Art Director Wirankan Saisombut

GROVE: COCONUTS BRAND STUDIO

Senior Brand Editor Julianne Greco

Associate Thai Editor Pakvipa Rimdusit

Branded Content Writer Moe Thet War

Senior Project Manager

Sirinart Panyasricharoen

Senior Account Manager Hafiz Rasid

Senior Digital Account Manager

Nuttajuk Kittichailuk

Art Director Tan Kar Liang

Senior Graphic Designer Umporn Jiaranai

Production Manager Komkrit Klinkaeo

Head of Business Development Elizabeth Chua

Senior Business Development Managers

Piti Rungrojanaluck, Sophia Ong

Business Development Manager

Chalida Anuwattanawong

Publisher, Printer, and Editor Tara Rattanaphas

BK MAGAZINE IS A COCONUTS MEDIA PUBLICATION.

Founder and CEO Byron Perry

Head of Content & Production Vim Shanmugam

Head of Operations & Talent Clarissa Cortes

Advertise with us advertising@coconuts.co

WHERE TO FIND US!

COCONUTS BK LIMITED

111 Room 5A, 5th Floor

We Space Building, Soi Thonglor 5

Khlong Tan Neua, Wattana

Bangkok, 10110

Tel: 02-041-5755

Email: info@bkmagazine.com

BY THE NUMBERS

THE AQI TIMES

The government’s budget for the environment for 2023 accounts for 0.003% of the total budget.

Source: Move Forward Party, “Dust Budget: Better but not enough,” Jun 2, 2022

Bangkok’s AQI reached 220+ in early February

Most areas in Bangkok have air quality ratings 3 times higher than the acceptable level announced by WHO. had inhaled smog equivalent of smoking 1,261 cigarettes per year.

Source: The Standard, “Revealing data for the year 2021,” Jan 18, 2022

YOU SAID WHAT?

“The rich guests get entangled with police and then by the last episode they leave scot free.”

HOT OR NOT

The current budget could translate into 3,665,268 (Xiaomi 3C) air purifiers.

“I know a few exclusive clubs in Bangkok with better returns for your money.”

Is ‘White Lotus’ coming to Thailand?

The sex-fueled, star-studded dark comedy might be coming to an island near you—if the creator’s recent holiday is anything to go by. Writer and creator Mike White posted a video of himself on a Thailand beach. It was enough grist for this particular rumor mill. Four Seasons was the early favorite but told BK no filming was ongoing.

Chocolate whopper, big flopper

Two years ago, Burger King released promo pictures of flame-grilled chocolate patties on April’s Fool Day. Now, the monarch of ground meat has followed through, and these chocolate (bun) whoppers are already in Thailand. The questionable combination is a collaboration between Burger King and Hershey’s.

Really, Really Loud

For one of the hottest live shows in all of Southeast Asia, the full set list for Rolling Loud includes a bevy of A-list talent. Cardi B of WAP fame, hip-hop legend Travis Scott, and domestic abuser Chris Brown will all take the stage Apr 13-15 at The Legend Siam Amusement Park. Tickets, though, ain’t cheap (B15,000).

Alas poor Yona

The New Year came with the news that a hot new floating party island, Yona Beach Club, would be opening in Phuket—and days later the idea was sunk. Phuket officials scuppered plans, saying it wasn’t up to code. Lacking permits and as a potential pollution and noise issue, the floating beach club was ordered to cease operation.

Source Coconuts Bangkok, “Air so dirty that Bangkok should work from home.” Jan 26, 2023

Daily Average PM2.5 AQI 2020 2021 2022

— Facebook user Sumet Ninsuvannakul on the rumor HBO’s The White Lotus could be set in Thailand.

The worst of the smog is over, but it’ll be back

— Facebook user Leandro Nicolas Gerardo

on the opening of Soho House

in

Bangkok. “Burger King tastes like normally...I can’t imagine this invention is any better.”

— Instagram user travel4food_withjake on the announcement of a new chocolate whopper at Burger King.

NIGHTLIFE Paradise gone BAD

It’s official and the winners have been chosen. If you missed it, we’re bringing back the much-hyped Bangkok After Dark (BAD) Awards in March. The awards celebrate the very best of Bangkok’s nightlife industry: the bartenders, speakeasies, hole-in-the-wall drinking spots you didn’t know about, hi-so rooftop cocktail bars and more. If it deals with booze in Bangkok, we’re using our borderline problematic drinking habits to crown the best of the best.

In March, we’ll be hosting an invite-only awards party at Paradise Lost at Siam@ Siam to hand out the awards and celebrate the nightlife scene. That same day, BK will release a print guide to hundreds of locations around Bangkok announcing the winners. If you miss that, we’ll be releasing digital content on the BK website cataloging all the winners.

RESTAURANTS

Does the long queue make your food better?

Have you ever queued for your food or heard about hours of wait time (Jay Fai, for example) and still stand in the heat and wait? Maybe bars blast about being a speakeasy through every social media channel and doing everything but standing on the street and shouting about it? There’s intrigue and excitement, but is it actually better at a hardto-book/hard-to-find place?

That’s subjective, sure. But does it sell? Also, sure. The harder it is to get something, the more the people want it. It’s the “look at me” culture of exclusivity on social media. Look at me, I’m eating at No Name Noodle, and you could never book here! Some places might actually sell good food or good drinks

(we actually love No Name Noodle but wish they would expand). Don’t get sucked into the marketing scheme.

CITY LIVING

The new downtown park may finally open Several metal-sheeted hovels belonging to longtime residents were recently demolished, clearing the way for Pathumwananurak Park behind the Central World shopping mall to open, 49 months after it was finished

The park spans 40 rai and was completed in December 2018, according to developer Landprocess, which built it for the Crown Property Bureau. Landprocess is headed by landscape architect Kotchakorn Voraakhom, who is also credited with Bangkok’s Centenary Park

A sign at the park declares it to be an “Oasis in the City” that offers a “fresh remix of nature, open air and flowing waters.” It’s divided into five sections including a water purification center, outdoor theater, walking path, green forest and rest area.

BK NEWS QUIZ

1) How much money do you need to pay for a private police escort from the airport?

a. B5,000

b. B4,500

c. B7,000

d. How dare you. The venerated police would never do such a thing.

2) What’s the Thai military’s most recent Guinness World Record attempt?

a. World’s largest mango sticky rice

b. Sexiest uniforms

c. Most cronies in political office

d. World’s largest Muay Thai wai khru ritual

3) A 16-year-old tennis player killed a man while driving a BMW. What did the Lawn Tennis Association of Thailand do after learning of his crime?

a. Banned him from all matches

b. Bought his BMW at a discount

c. Apologized to the victim’s family

d. Made him a national team member

4) What’s the new name for Bang Sue Grand Station?

a. Krungthep Mahanakorn Central Terminal

b. Krungthep Central Aphiwat Terminal

c. Krungthep Aphiwat Central Terminal

d. Hua Lamphong II

Answers: 1) C – B7,000 buys you a police pick up and escort from the airport. The story went viral after Chinese Tik Tokers shared the “grand service,” and after initial denials, several officers believed to be involved were fired. Problem solved. 2) D – Competing against no one, 3,600 military recruits dressed in Muay Thai gear for the wai kru ceremony. 3) D – Deja vu? The Lawn Tennis Association of Thailand not only let the sportsman continue to compete but also put him on a national team. However, after online pressure, the player withdrew. 4) C – No one knows why they want to change the rail station name all of a sudden, but they (or rather we) paid B33 million for it. So why not?

Paradise Lost

Weed has been decriminalized for more than nine months.

Since June 9, 2022, fresh off the heels of an economy ravaged by a pandemic, Bangkokians have been getting high with careless abandon. First, there were reluctant streetside sellers and trucks; now well-lit Sukhumvit haunts sell buds from around the world, and there is hardly a major soi absent a glowing marijuana leaf—seven for indica, nine for sativa, of course.

There are weed and wine pairings, 420-friendly restaurants, and even clubs are now boasting their own inhouse dispensaries.

But how long can the good times last?

HOW HIGH CAN BANGKOK GET?

Grinderss Green

THE BUBBLE

Since decriminalization, more than a million people have applied to grow cannabis via the government’s app. Similarly, over 5,000 licenses to buisinesses offering cannabis have opened, according to the Public Health Ministry.

Some of the most striking dispensaries on Sukhumvit are the startlingly well-designed Cloud Nine in Nana across from Korea Town and the kooky Kush House near Phrom Phong— both interests of the Panthera Group.

“We’ve got six now, and we’ll open up another 10 in the next five months,” Benjamin Baskins, CEO of OG Retail Company with Panthera, told BK in January. “We’re going forward, man.”

And why not? The boom is on. This industry could be worth B33 billion by 2025 and B322 billion by 2030 according to Grand View Research. So, there’s plenty of room for even more dispensaries cluttering up the city’s population-heavy areas.

The first few months saw skyrocketing sales and have been buoyed by the influx of tourists and the obvious high season in December. Sales have seen boom after boom.

Now, Benjamin and a number of other weed business owners are going to be targeting Silom, where, apart from the usual tourists, an influx of Chinese visitors are expected in the coming months. Wonderland, on Sukhumvit, is already advertising in a number of languages on bright pink weed signs, including Chinese. China has been tightening its weed laws in recent years, so it’s expected to draw intense attention from curious travelers.

“I think…like America, there were a lot of small guys, they got their dispensary licenses and then ended up selling out to the big boys, or some of them went out of business for a variety of different reasons, whether it’s cashflow issues or not being able to keep up with all the documentation and the paperwork.”

Thailand’s weed scene may seem Wild West from the outside, and enforcement of the

laws at the moment is, at best, lax. However, behind the scenes those trying to stay above board need to keep up with the authorities’ capricious requirements—along with a mountain of paperwork.

That mountain got considerably bigger at the start of the year with the announcement that anyone purchasing cannabis products will need to produce either a Thai national ID .

Each month, registered shops are required to submit reports on sales and purchases to the government so that sales and traffic in cannabis can be tracked from a central database. Those failing to do so will have their licenses revoked. BK visited a number of dispensaries who were not yet compliant with this new rule, which could spell trouble down the road.

“Clean invoices, purchasing from local farmers that have the growing licenses and sales licenses. They require that now,” Baskin says for advice on people hoping to start up a dispensary now. “Just have a good council. Make sure you get good advice. The laws are changing all the time.”

Wonderland BKK

THE FUZZ

Since the good times began, growers, producers, dispensary owners, and smokers have been worrying about ever-more stringent ad hoc requirements or perhaps even re-criminalization.

Within days and weeks of the decriminalization of weed in Bangkok, weed trucks took to the street—driving through Nana, parked in Khaosan, thumping music in Thonglor. It was a popular way, especially for tourists, to grab an Instagram snap and a joint.

But along with vending machines and online sales, weed trucks, some still wet with their new 420 paint jobs, were a casualty of some of the first weed restrictions following decriminalization.

Nuttavat “Beam” Chuleekiet owns one of the few remaining weed trucks in Thailand—and it’s stationary. Due to relevant loopholes, Beam continues to operate Zaza Medical in J Avenue.

“I disagree,” Beam said when asked about the laws that ended weed trucks. “But I support that every seller needs to have a license and be educated.”

Beam echoes many of concerns held by those worried the weed boom has gone too far and too fast.

“Having a truck on the street everywhere made it uncontrollable and might enable teenagers or kids to reach cannabis easily without being educated first,” Beam says. “It does affect our sales but as a Thai citizen and stoner, we support control…I worry about many dispensaries taking advantage of new users.”

Even the progressive Move Forward Party has stated the current state of the weed laws must change. The original purpose of decriminalizing weed was for “medicinal” purposes and the government remains staunchly opposed to recreational use. In November, recreational smoking inside businesses was banned and flower buds became a controlled substance.

A September vote for clearer—and likely more strict— weed laws was kicked back for redrafting; now, with an election in the offing, business owners could be stuck with the current laws for some time.

In many dispensaries, proprietors refuse to roll a joint for you or sell pre-rolled joints worrying that it violates the laws for products and extracts. Decriminalization was never going to be a clear affair. Even when the laws are clear, enforcement can be, at best, capricious.

Commercial advertising, for example, appears to have been part of November’s spate of restrictions, but that can be hard to define, especially in terms of what constitutes a cannabis product—and, of course, who is doing the advertising.

Even the cops seem to be in on the weed boom. The police print and online magazine (pitakchon.com) is hailed as News Guardians of the Public Peace Police. Amongst the stretched, pixelated photos of the arrested are full page ads for dispensaries.

GoodNeighborsFarm

THE FUTURE OF FARMING

While the current weed culture in Bangkok is definitely rowdy and saturated, full of young adults acting all hyped up (and annoying) like it’s their first time getting high, we can expect something a little more mellow in the future.

Good Neighbors Farm in Khao Yai focuses specifically on CBD products. Their latest product line is Diip, CBD oil with a third-party testing system to make sure it’s clean and free from any harmful

Sakonpob “Pob” Kittiwarawut, the managing director, says he’s not worried that the THC market seems to be growing much faster than CBD culture.

“For CBD, you can expect a steady growth. It will not be hyped up like the THC market, but it will definitely grow bigger and bigger,” Pob says. His customers are those who are either already familiar with the benefits of CBD or have been using it to treat illnesses and want to explore more. Pob also thinks the CBD businesses will be more stable and easier to scale compared to THC.

Farmer Supachai “A” Sriprapa—the man behind a family-run, homegrown Grinderss Green—originally started growing weed to treat his cancer-addled dog. He was too late, but continued to research weed farming. His weed is grown with imported fertilizer lab-tested to be clean and safe when inhaled and free from toxic heavy metals.

Right now, customers just buy whatever is available without caring about their weed’s safety or pedigree, perhaps focused only on how different weed smells. “But in the future, when the market is done with the saturation and hits its peak, there will definitely be more people who care about how their weed was grown or how clean it is, or stories about the farming behind the buds,” A says.

Customers at the moment don’t walk into a dispensary and ask where or how their buds were grown or cultivated. But that is going to change.

“Organic culture has become a big part of our agriculture now, and it’s growing. I think eventually it will move onto weed,” says chef Napol “Joe” Jantraget, chef and partner at Samlor and newly opened Thai fine-dining spot Nawa, where he and his team source local and organic ingredients. “Weed culture could shift to be like food culture.” ●

HAVE YOUR SAY

Grinderss Green

Good Neighbors Farm

ENJOY BITE-SIZED LARB SKEWERS AT AN ISAAN IZAKAYA

There are fun northern flavors hiding above the Jim Thompson Art Center.

Porpor Leelasestaporn

The buzz: The Jim Thompson Art Center is getting spicier with this izakaya perched on its rooftop. But this is no ordinary drinking spot. There’s an Isaan spin on the usual yakitori to turn them into bite-sized larb skewers to enjoy with selected craft beer both on tap and by the bottle.

The vibe: After exploring the art space, climb upstairs to find Larb Siab. With an orange metallic roof, uncomfy steel chairs at the bar, and table seatings with concrete floors, the place is reminiscent of street side food stalls. Hit it early to enjoy the view and sunset or round up your friends for a night out.

The food: With the craze on mala beef skewers in Bangkok, owner Arthit “Fai” Mulsan , formerly a morlam arts curator for the art space and Isaan culture scholar, believes Isaan food culture could do better. So, he began experimenting on his creations from scratch, starting by selecting part of the beef to hone taste profiles. The result was larb siab: addictive, bite-sized skewers complete with toasted rice powder, bird’s eye chilis, lime juice, and fish sauce. His basic

skewers, ranging from B30-40 each, include beef onglet, shank, duck thigh, and pork intestines—dried and crispy on the outside as they should be. His special bites see Isaan sausage (B40) stuffed—and later torched— with cheese, a combination we never saw coming but is delightful in an unusual way. There are also vegetarian options available, from grilled eggplants and okra to orinji mushroom, all finished with his homemade nam prik pao sauce.

Why we’d come back: While Bangkok may never experience a shortage when it comes to finding rooftop drinking spots, Larb Siab offers a very affordable spot and cheap food to pair with your beer drinking. With the chill vibe and friendly chatter from the owner and the staff, it won’t disappoint. ●

4/F Jim Thompson Art Center, 10/1 Kasem San Soi 2, 098-361-9389. Open Wed-Sun 5-11pm.

FRAN’S

58, Soi Ngamdupli, 02-002-1303. Open daily 8am-6pm.

Bangkok’s food scene has been under siege by the culinary might of Iberry Group, a restauranteur behind several notable names like premium beef noodle chain Thongsmith, Thai-Vietnamese restaurant An Com An Ca, and this massively popular brunch spot, Fran’s. Ever since the venue first opened its doors in August, 2022, the popularity shows no signs of waning, and practically no one seems to be immune.

Lines and queues show early in the morning; even the online bookings require reservation one month in advance, and the available time slots rarely allow people with real jobs a spot on weekdays.

For all the craze, it is justified, really. After all, the venue combines the might of the restaurateur group and guidance from Chalee Kader (100 Mahaseth, Mickey’s Diner, and Wana Yook). With its photogenic, glasshouselike setting filled with natural light, it’s no surprise to see foodies, hipsters, and locals alike flocking to taste the magic here.

When we look past those magical elements, however, we see the venue for what it really is, and like any other restaurant, certain major flaws—big ones, we’d say— prevent it from reaching greatness.

The Achilles heel is the consistency of the food. This is typical of the places where head chefs don’t regularly station. When Kader is

here, the food is excellent; when he’s not, the quality tends to slump—completely boiled eggs for the eggs Benedict, for instance, has been a previously reported complaint.

Luckily, our experience when dining there didn’t suffer that fate. Our velvety bacon and scrambled eggs (B390) arrived with a glossy sheen and a soft, creamy texture. On top is a massive chunk of juicy maple syrup glazed bacon, which looks perhaps even better than the menu. But to our surprise, we couldn’t taste a trace of sweetness; the syrup in the bacon was imperceptible, rendering it to a mere insipid hunk of meat.

Another matter is the cost. The dishes since opening five months ago have skyrocketed from their initial prices. Our steak and eggs, another of its showpieces featuring thinly sliced hanger steak served alongside sunny side up eggs and fried sweet potatoes, sets you back B880 compared to the original price of B790. Admittedly, the quality is undeniably good, but for this price, we could get real butcher work from elsewhere for lower prices. The fried sweet potatoes on the side are a real showstopper, even more satisfactory than the steaks.

This isn’t to say that our time wasn’t pleasant. The salmon pesto pasta (B380) was even better than some pasta-focused places in Bangkok, arriving with a hearty portion (enough for two). But the most vaunted dish we had was the simple flan (B160); the rich, soft, cloudy texture melted inside. Perhaps, in retrospect, we should have ordered more of this instead of the steak plate. ●

GINZA SUSHI ICHI

3/F, 999 Gaysorn Center, room 3F-08 , 02-250-0014. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am2:30pm; 5:30-10pm. (Closed on Toyosu Fish Market holidays)

Far from your average sushi restaurant, Ginza Sushi Ichi is affiliated with the Michelin-starred Tokyo restaurant of the same name. Smartly dressed bilingual waitresses guide you to the twin 11-seat dining rooms centered around sushi preparation areas. The interior goes heavy on hinoki wood for a calming environment. Ginza Sushi Ichi boasts flying its fish straight from Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market and is the first Bangkok restaurant to promise that, no matter what day you dine, the fish will have been at the market less than 24 hours before service. The omakase service style means the chefs decide what you eat, all of whom are trained by Masakazu Ishibashi, the acclaimed head chef of the Michelin-star mother branch.

Exclusively for Citi and UOB Credit Card members

Get 10% discount for Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige, Citi Premier, Citi Mercedes, Citi Royal Orchid Plus Preferred and Select, UOB Infinite and UOB PRIVI Miles Or

Get 5% discount for other Citi and UOB Credit Cards on food only when spending THB 10,000 or more /sales slip (for lunch) or when spending THB 17,000 or more /sales slip (for dinner)

(excluding other promotions)

1 Jan ’23 – 31 Dec ’23

Terms and Conditions apply

New Japanese joint in Phrom Phong serves fresh, addictive bowls of udon

Phrom Phong may be saturated with Japanese restaurants, but this udon specialist—despite opening for just two months—is garnering crowds for its gigantic bowls of freshly made udon noodles. Between the alleys in Sukhumvit Soi 43, Udon Sakaba Kitaro Labo not only serves dense noodles with delectable variations but also dubs as a spot for premium-quality sukiyaki to get you out of your post-work funk. Set in a two-storey shophouse, Udon Sakaba Kitaro Labo is decorated with simple wood furniture, with the majority of seating traditional low Japanese tables on the first floor. If you arrive in a large business group, head upstairs to find enclosed private rooms on the second floor.

1/2 Soi Saeng Mukda. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2pm; 5-10pm.

The much-hyped No Name Noodle expands its ramen empire to Thonglor

The brains behind No Name Noodle, Shin Inoue, is teasing his cult of ramen followers with a new noodle place: The Shoyu Stand, soon to open at J Avenue Thonglor Soi 15. Though not much information about his new location is known, we’re quite sure you can expect the same quality—and difficulty booking—his new shoyu place. Opened in early 2022, No Name Noodle has been fully booked—to the point that even media outlets have to join queues like everyone else. As of now, you can expect more updates from the restaurant’s Instagram. Hopefully, this iteration will ease up on the rules. J Avenue, Thonglor Soi 15.

This boxy bakery in Asok churns out intensely rich soft-baked cookies

There’s a new cookie spot you’ll want to check out the next time you hit Asok. The tiny, minimalist, clean-looking bakery The Cream Factory boasts six different flavors of their NYC-inspired cookies, complete with crunchy outsides and moist, luscious insides. Priced at B120, their basic flavors include double choc, OG chocolate chip, and peanut butter. The special cookies, meanwhile, will set you back at B130, featuring the tangy lemon cheese pie, miso white choc, and strawberry cheesecake (B150). Can’t make up your mind? Order a box of all six flavors for B770. As the venue doesn’t have any seating, you have to grab their cookies on the go.

BTS Asok, 39/1 Soi Sukhumvit 21. Open daily 10am-9pm.

Udon Sakaba Kitaro Labo

No Name Noodle

The Cream Factory

Asian smokehouse Aromkwan makes its comeback in Ekkamai

Formerly at Yen Akat, the much-loved Asian smokehouse Aromkwan makes a return to the scene with its new Ekkamai location, introducing the first batch of its a la carte dishes. In a two-storey house in the residential side of Ekkamai, the new Aromkwan is more spacious, with more casual seating on the first floor and a long table for the “chef’s table” upstairs. Like his old space, you can expect Vishanu “Bank” Prempuk to go into full gaga mode during the chef’s table session (B1,500/person), with his almost theatrical performance reminding you of a wrestling arena with the backdrop of old-school Malaysian music.

145 Pridi Banomyong Soi 14, 094-235-6662. Open TueSun 5pm-11pm.

Serving instant noodle inspired dishes, Mama opens its first restaurant

Ask what the Thai national dish is, and kaprow, padthai, or tom yum kung might pop into your head. But you absolutely can not forget about the long-standing favorite for the thrifty: an instant cup of Mama noodles. Recently, the instant noodle brand unveiled its first restaurant chain, Mama Station , dedicated to churning out their affordable bowls of noodles and other dishes inspired by their products. Located in Mini Mall Phetkasem 98, the first branch of its kind boasts a variety of noodles, ranging from the all-time classic moo sab (minced pork) for B49 to Korean-inspired flavors like stir-fried Korean hot sauce (B89) and Korean hot pot noodles (B139).

Mini Mall Phetkasem Soi 98. Open daily 11am-8pm.

Taking Japanese fireside dining to another level

Soho Hospitality—the team behind Above Eleven, Cantina, Havana Social, Soho Pizza, and Charcoal Tandoor Grill—has birthed their latest baby, Yankii, a Japanese restaurant in robatayaki style, equipped with a full bar. Robatayaki is basically firesidestyle dining, where you get to sit next to a bunch of ingredients and a charcoal-lit stove. You can ask them to grill everything you see in front of you. It’s fun, lively, and super casual with the staff shouting their welcomes as soon as you walk in. The dining area is on the upper floor above the bar—inspired by dagashi shops from the 50s and their colorful candies—to continue your drinking upstairs with the grilled bites.

Skyview Hotel, G/F, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-821-6808. Open daily 6pm-2am.

GINZA TENHARU

3/F, 999 Gaysorn Center, room 3F-23 , 02-070-0014. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am2:30pm; 5:30-10pm. (Closed on Toyosu Fish Market holidays)

This is not Bangkok’s first tempura omakase—a chef’s selection of premium deep-fried produce served around a sushi-style counter—but it is its most pedigreed. Tenharu is here thanks to the one-Michelin-star Ginza Sushi Ichi team, and like that restaurant, this one also hails from a renowned mother branch in Tokyo. It’s true omakase style: 12-person counter with an immaculately understated design with two chefs manning a pair of glass entombed frying stations, where they conduct the cooking in a light atmosphere. Enormous Hokkaido scallops, decadent Kobe beef, nori stuffed with sea urchin and other such highly prized produce—all jetpropelled from Japanese markets—gets delicately fried in sunflower oil and served plate by plate to customers.

Exclusively for Citi and UOB Credit Card members

Get 10% discount for Citi ULTIMA, Citi Prestige, Citi Premier, Citi Mercedes, Citi Royal Orchid Plus Preferred and Select, UOB Infinite and UOB PRIVI Miles

Or

Get 5% discount for other Citi and UOB Credit Cards on food only when spending THB 10,000 or more /sales slip (for lunch) or when spending THB 17,000 or more /sales slip (for dinner)

(excluding other promotions)

1 Jan ’23 – 31 Dec ’23

Terms and Conditions apply

Mama Station

Aromkwan

Larder’s new breakfast menu is simple but radiates quality

Phrom Phong’s rising star brunch spot

Larder has launched their new breakfast menu, bringing together personalized dishes and showcasing some mouthwatering Polish staples. Dubbed Brekkie 2.0, the menu, though simple, has depth and effuses with the chefs’ personal touches. Their guacamole topped with gooey a poached egg and crispy rye crackers (B260), for instance, distinguishes itself from the regular mashed avocado by mixing it with coriander oil.

The hard-to-book Thai restaurant

Baan Nual moves to a new location

The two-table Thai restaurant Baan Nual is moving from their original location in Sam Sen to Fueang Nakhon Road in Phra Nakhon, according to recent Instagram posts. The new location doesn’t look like a rustic, traditional Thai-style wooden house anymore, but it appears to have a bigger space and is still keeping with the local shophouse-style vibe. The new venue should be ready around midyear. Baan Nual serves no-BS Thai dishes in big portions; they send diners a list of dishes

available on the day of booking to order in advance. Then they prep exactly what you order and you won’t be able to order anything on the spot.

The Loft is serving art-inspired cocktails until the end of March

Waldorf Astoria’s skyhigh bar The Loft has been low-key serving an art-inspired cocktail menu and will continue until the end of March. And it is worth checking it out. The menu is a collaboration with Thai street artist Piyasak “Muay” Khiaosaard who created a digital art print based on each drink. Muay is a self-taught street artist who uses technology to create digital art in unusual, colorful contexts. He also hopes his wild animal art can start a conversation. Created by the Italian bartender Michele Montauti, this menu is not technically a vermouthfocused menu, but Montauti knows all about vermouth and how to use it.

Kiri Tsukemen is already causing long queues

The people behind Thonglor’s beloved Kansai udon specialist Tsuru Udon recently unveiled

Kiri Tsukemen. Each option arrives with a burning stone bowl to keep your experience going. The menu—just like its compact space—sees their thick, bouncy noodles (B350) laden with slices of sous vide pork shoulder, fermented bamboo shoot menma, and perfectly soft boiled egg with a dipping sauce of your choice. Here, you get to choose from five different dipping sauces, boasting both tonkotsu (pork bone) and chicken bone broth.

New brand for healthy foodies open for delivery in Sathorn

Co-founders Nisha Phongpetra and Prima

Pattaropong have opened Good Roots , a delivery-only natural foods brand based in Sathorn, a new eatery for health-conscious foodies launched in January. The brand will focus on nutrient-dense ingredients, and diners can order from salads, bowls, and sandwiches. Salads on offer include tuna nicoise (B290) and steak and kale (B350). Though only for delivery at the moment, Good Roots plans to open a physical dining spot in the coming months. ●

Kiri Tsukemen The Loft

Larder

20 PLACES THAT MAKE SONGWAT THE COOL SIDE OF YAOWARAT

From a legendary 60-year-old braised goose stall and an authentic Hakka holein-the-wall to emerging hip businesses, this side of Yaowarat extends its charm.

LEGENDARY FOOD STALLS

Kanomjeeb Arlian

There’s a little stall with an aunty on the corner of Songwat’s entrance that serves affordable, unique shumai. For over 80 years, the dumpling cart has been passed through family hands to a fourth generation owner who blends pork, shrimp, and fried egg into her dumplings. Priced at B4 for pork and B5 for shrimp, these dumplings are perfect to start your morning stroll in Songwat.

Urai Braised Goose Noodle

Regardless of how much money you make, your chances of tasting this delicious goose palo during the weekend are zero if you arrive without a reservation. This 60-year-old restaurant has secured a top place among locals as one of the best Chinese goose spots in Bangkok. The small plate of braised goose will set you back B120, but according to local tips, the half-sized portion of the whole goose (B800) is better for sharing with four-five people.

Wooden Barrel Guay Jab

Entering A Nia Keng alley, you’ll find one of the best guay jab spots in Bangkok hidden between

the floral murals and metal carts along the trail. Sixty years ago, the original owner learned how to keep his noodles fresh and springy by putting them in a wooden bucket, hence the name. Order a bowl of guay jab (B80) with crispy pork belly, pork intestines, and hearts and innards of your choice.

Yok Hua

Past the A Nia Keng shrine you’ll find this authentic Hakka restaurant on the first soi to your left. Originally run by a 90-ish-year-old amah who moved to Songwat 20 years ago, she passed the robe to her daughter-in-law, serving their unique khaomakHakka noodles (B250) and notable for its pinkish hue from the red yeast.

Gu Long Bao

This long-standing Teochew bao stall has been molding salapao for over 100 years. This OG stall wasn’t part of Songwat’s streets at first, but the family’s main kitchen always has been. Four generations have passed on the art of bao-making. Known for its yellowtinted flour from mixing sweet potatoes in the dough, the steamed buns feature a variety

of fillings, ranging from pork and salted eggs to the housemade sweet taro. Gu Long Bao officially joined the Songwat community with its new, youthful-looking branch last year.

Limlaosa

Ask any local in Songwat about their favorite food stall and this 80-year-old fishball noodle stall is likely at the top of their list. Try their classic dry noodle (B60): a tang from jigchow (sour black soy sauce) encompasses the bouncy fish balls and Chinese fish sausage. The fish dumpling in the bowl may seem dull, but delights await inside.

Noo-ri Chestnut Ice Cream

Twenty years ago, the daughter of Yaowarat’s long-serving chestnut business found a way for people to enjoy kao lat in the most intriguing way: Instead of roasting them by flame, freeze them and turn them into irresistible ice cream toppings. Order a bowl of coconut milk ice cream (starting at B40) topped with frozen chestnut, the latter of which provides nutty toffee-like taste profiles. There’s also an adult option (B90) where they blend vodka into the mix.

Urai braised goose

A Nia Shrine

Porpor Leelasestaporn

NEW WAVE

E-ga Food Lab

Don’t let the name fool you. The venue may have “lab” in the name, but E-ga doesn’t put you on a rollercoaster of foams, bubbles, and gels. Instead, the venue goes for homey dishes unique to different regions across the country. On our last visit, we tried the deep-fried redtail catfish sourced from Kanchanaburi served with a thick molasses-like dipping sauce; the crisp skins when dipped into the sauce are beautifully simple and straightforward.

great grandfather has been transformed into her culinary space with a flying banner celebrating the long history of Thai-Chinese cuisine. With its judicious mix of rustic and contemporary design, the place is renowned for its aesthetics, winning BK’s Top Tables 2022 for Best Restaurant Design. Her 20-course experience boasts hyperlocal ingredients through networks of fishers and local suppliers.

Opium

FV

It’s a cafe that doesn’t serve coffee. The venue specializes in fruit and vegetable-based concoctions made from Thai ingredients you may not know. Maiyarap, or the sensitive plant, for example, is turned into a refreshing beverage (B105). At FV, you are also encouraged to try some of their rare-find treats—from the late Thai cuisine specialist Srisamorn Kongphan—which will be rotating throughout the seasons.

Rongklannuer

Breathing new life into a crumbling two-storey shophouse in Songwat, this hipster magnet drew people of all ages when it first opened in December last year, with crowds as thick as the broth. Try the emperor braised beef noodle (B250), the most lavish option on offer and featuring a medley of braised beef, beef balls, sliced tenderloins, tendons, and beef tongues— all topped with sweet chili oil and crisp garlic.

We didn’t land on moon since 1987

After capturing a fanbase in the north for nine years, the popular bar from Chiang Mai landed on Songwat’s quiet streets. This place is decorated with the owner’s various memorabilia, with hand painted pictures, random photographs, and personal letters. Drink-wise, grab classic drinks like mojitos, long islands, and gin and tonics for B150-260.

Potong

A historic building that once belonged to celebrity chef Pitchaya “Pam” Utarntham’s

One thing that always impresses at this Chinese-themed bar perched atop Potong is its unlimited growth potential. The bar boasts a 20-page menu divided into specific taste profiles, and one day you may find those old drinks have been swapped for a new batch with the same numbers. At Opium, there’s a promise of good food which we rarely find at bars in Bangkok, like the Wild Kiss (B350), grilled pork tongue skewers with caramelized exteriors saturated and tenderized with perilla seeds and finished with tangy sauce.

STAYS

Hostel Urby

Offering a more laid-back riverside hangout to the five-star hotels, this playful Songwat hostel has something for everyone. Climbing the staircase to the 4th floor, you’ll find the hip cafe Woodbrook and hostel bar Barbon where you can either order a cup of coffee or beer to enjoy the breezy riverside hangout spot on large cushions.

Baan Songwat

If hostels are not for your liking, why not book a whole house? At Baan Songwat, you get four bedrooms that come with a spacious living room perfect for any family or large party who are planning to explore this side of the city. The spot is also close to the public transport like MRT Wat Mangkorn.

Luk Hostel

Just a stone’s throw from the bustling side of Songwat, you’ll find this cool-looking, raw-concrete hostel located in the quiet

Soi Vanich in Sampeng, boasting over sixstorey-high cafes and the rooftop Rise Bar.

CULTURE AND ART

Mesa 312

Mesa in Spanish means table, and like any other table its main function is to foster collaboration and esprit de corps for creative minds. Inspired by the time she spent teaching and visiting Chinatown, the owner Myriam Rueda hopes Mesa 312 can be a cultural hive where people can exchange ideas. The studio also dubs as her Spanish language teaching center, so head there if you need your español brushed up.

Luang Kocha Itsahak Mosque

Named after a Malaysian nobleman who acted as an interpreter for King Rama V, this mosque is one of the few European-style colonial mosques in Thailand. Despite its status as a private property, Luang Kocha Itsahuk Mosque is also open to the public who wish to partake in the ceremonies.

A Nia Shrine

Nestled in an alley of the same name, this little shrine offers a dose of peace amidst the bustling backdrop of the community. Legend has it that during the influx of Chinese immigrants to the area in the reign of King Rama V, the community was crowded with households and was prone to fires, so people erected a shrine to honor Guan Yin as a way to ensure the community’s safety. The shrine is also notable for the peculiar position of its incense holders as they are all reversed—a ritual to deter bad luck.

Play Art House

Walking past the faded facades of architecture along Songwat’s streets, you’ll notice this cheerfully blue art space that stands out from the crowd. Formerly used as the owner’s family storage for footwear, Play Art House embodies the owners’ love and passion for art and exhibitions, curating artwork from both old and emerging faces on the scene. ●

Hostel Urby

Play Art House

REAL WILDLIFE LOVERS GO TO KAENG KRACHAN

Khao Yai? Too touristy. Huai Kha Khaeng?

Too far. Khao Sok? Too flooded. Kui

Buri? Too simple. Thailand’s abundance of national parks can seem at first a bit dizzying, but for those who care about the wildlife experience, Kaeng Krachan is the best option, bar none.

Some might know Kaeng Krachan for its landed rice barges at the plush Kaeng Krachan Boathouse or perhaps the touristy (and very fun) rapids of the Phetchaburi. But there is an honest-to-goodness wildlife safari experience to be had here for those looking to get their boots dirty.

WHERE TO GO

The first entrance for Kaeng Krachan is only about two and a half hours from Bangkok. This is where you’ll find the slightly touristy eponymous lake and swimming monkeys. The more southerly entrance at Kaeng Krachan Protection Unit KBR 2 is where things get properly wild.

Kaeng Krachan is newly Unesco-ed and Thailand’s second largest national park, so there is plenty to explore. For the safari, you’ll need to drive—or hike if you’ve got the mettle—the hours-long rough road up to Phanoen Thung Camp.

WHAT TO DO

Tourists give Kaeng Krachan’s mountain roads a miss for one reason: It’s bloody difficult. You’re going to need either a guide or a 4x4 and experience with extreme roads. There’s more than one wrecked, abandoned truck on the way up, and you can just forget about going in the wet season.

Along the way you’ll find gibbons and gray langurs galore in the early morning, along with a preponderance of hornbills, bee eaters, and photogenic birds of every shade. For the photographers among you, the trees are ancient and tall, so 300mm is the absolute minimum. Other animals creep through the dark forests, and, with the right guide, you might even have the rare chance to spot a clouded leopard or, who knows, even a panther.

From the foggy mountain views at the top of Phanoen Thung Camp you’ll find a habituated sun bear that visits scraps thrown away by the camp concession area.

For you, likely, this will be the end of the line, but you’ll notice that this is where their trip begins for hardcore hikers on their way to Tho Thip Waterfall and other hidden spots.

Nature guarantees nothing. If you absolutely must get a glimpse of animals ethically, Wildlife Friends Foundation of Thailand is less than half an hour away.

WHERE TO STAY

There’s no reason you can’t stay somewhere near the river or lake and drive down later, but—assuming you’re not camping—it should be Baan Maka Nature Lodge

Bird blinds are found throughout the property, and the rooms are affordable in the extreme. Here, you’ll find guides to take you up the mountain, drongos on the branches, odd insects galore, and visiting creatures from the surrounding grounds.

But, and this is truly remarkable, it is run by staff who actually care about wildlife. And that is, frankly, a rarer find than tigers.

Similarly, Baan Maka Nature Lodge provides an astounding night walking safari through the grounds for a spot of herping and, if you’re lucky, a slow loris climbing silently through the trees. Keep your head on a swivel and look for the red of their reflective eyes.●

Tyler Roney

SHOPPING

Swarovski is doing a pop-up store

Austrian crystal brand Swarovski is currently doing a pop-up store at Central Embassy, 2/F until May 1. The pop-up store isn’t hard to spot with its coloredblock octagons in electrifying pink and green, metallic sculptures, and, of course, the iconic swan. Customers can shop for special limited release items and collectibles from this pop-up store that include special shoe collaborations with two of the world’s leading fashion brands: Aquazzura and Golden Goose. Swarovski is also offering ang pao and other gifts for visitors to this new pop-up.

SHOPPING

Casetify teams up with Mickey Mouse and Friends

Hong Kong-based tech accessory maker Casetify has teamed up with Disney for its latest collection, featuring Mickey Mouse and friends, available starting in January and running until it sells out. There are 12 designs for this collaboration ranging from pop-art texts of characters’ names to character portraits. There are also cases for accessories like for your Air Pods or MacBook as well as Apple Watch straps. This collection is now available at the website and the Central World pop-up store, however, all designs are not available at the pop-up store. Prices range from B1,199-2,599.

STYLE

Thai ‘XL’ singer Silvy launches her own swimwear brand with Valentina Ploy

Italiana is a swimwear project by Thai-Italian singer Silvy and ThaiItalian pop-folk singer Valentina Ploy, who competed in The X Factor (Italy) and The Voice Season 6, to empower women to feel beautiful in their bodies. Silvy first entered the music industry at 15 when she competed in the popular TV singing competition, The Star. She faced criticism for her body as she didn’t look like the typical super thin and pale Thai celebrity. But that didn’t bring her down, and she made a comeback last year with her single, “XL” in which she sings about being comfortable and feeling beautiful in her own skin. The first bikini set is called Aperol Spritz and is in a glittery brownorange-ish color, just like the color of the eponymous Italian aperitif.

STYLE

I Wanna Bangkok opens its first flagship store

You’ve probably seen these bold red letters: graffitied on a wall, stenciled on a T-shirt, spread across someone’s Instagram. Now you can shop for I Wanna Bangkok products with its first ever flagship store on Narathiwas Road. Originally started in 2014 as a project to promote Bangkok, two artsy Bangkokian fashion grads, Adisak “Beam” Jirasakkasem and Supakorn “Grofe” Buaruan, created the brand as an alternative to the usual hooks of temples and tuk tuks.

THEATER DIRECTOR LONGS TO SHINE A LIGHT ON CREATIVE PLAYS IN THAILAND

Rangsimun “Potae” Kitchaijaroen helped bring the first ever immersive musical theater performance to Bangkok. What’s next?

From Nov 5, 2022 to Jan 28, Bangkokians were fortunate enough to experience the immersive musical “Luna.” Immersive musicals are where the audience is free to wander about, follow characters, ask questions, and blend into the play itself—physically and emotionally. Event organizer Castscape and up-and-coming 31-year-old director Rangsimun “Potae” Kitchaijaroen made this performance possible—arguably the first experience of its kind in Bangkok. BK speaks to Potae about what it’s like to be working in a niche arts industry in a country that doesn’t always see value in the arts.

Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

What did you want to get out of this project?

I wanted to come back to the theater community as much as possible because I grew up with this community. I used to be a very introverted person but the theater community changed me and made me a more sociable person. So, for “Luna,” what I wanted the audience to get out of it was to remind them that just because you see someone, or know someone, you don’t know their full story. In the last scene of “Luna,” the audience from both sets (there are two entrances and two sets where spectators participate in either a village or a forest) join together in the forest and they realize they don’t know what the audience in the other room saw. So, it’s important to listen to each other and share and try to understand each other.

What’s the most challenging thing about being a theater director in Thailand?

For people to understand what I do. When people come to see a play, they only get to see the final result but not the process behind it. And of course, they don’t have to see the process behind it as a viewer, and if I tried to explain all the challenges behind the scenes, it would make me look like I’m finding excuses. There are so many obstacles and so much work that goes behind the scenes. As a director, I have to let go and accept that this is the final result after all the work and unseen challenges—and take all the criticism. Do you have a full-time job?

Yes, I do. I work as a content analyst. Why do you still need a full-time job when you’re already a theater director?

It’s almost impossible to make money from being a theater director. I’ve been involved

in the theater community as a hobby, as my passion, because I truly believe that a play is another way to communicate and send a message to our society. “Luna” is my breakthrough, the first ever commercial project where the actors and myself got paid. Prior to this it was all community theater projects. I’m glad Castscape contacted me and provided me with this opportunity. The government and private sector could be a good support for this industry. However, the theater community is not prominent enough yet for sponsors to notice or see that giving money to this industry can benefit them. So, for directors to survive, they need to have other jobs. There have been so many talented people who eventually gave up on this passion.

Where do you see the theater industry in five years?

Before Covid, the future was looking very bright. Some actors were involved in several plays at once. There were two to three plays a week. Now, we are back at square one. Though, I still believe it will bounce back. What kind of help do you wish you could get?

I want people to see the importance of plays, musicals, and art. Right now a lot of people still have questions, like, “Why do we need art curriculums in schools?” “Why do we have to pay to see this ‘entertainment’ when there’s Netflix or the internet at home?” There are so many types of art that still need to be explored. If you think the theater is niche, the opera and ballet people have it even worse than us. So, what we have to do is make people realize that art is important in our lives, that paying this amount of money is worth it.