Bold Issue #30 New Favourite Escapes

INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS

HONG KONG NOW

WHERE TO GO NEXT

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Egypt South Africa Martinique Salzburg

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Explore the beauty of Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour from the deck of a traditional Chinese junk ship.

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Sophistication Served Sky-high Whether transiting through Frankfurt on the way to Singapore or whiling away a weekend in a Munich museum, connoisseurs of air travel shouldn’t miss the long-haul Lufthansa experience.

Upgrade Yourself Their newest offering, Lufthansa’s Premium Economy Class, is an enticing choice for leisure and business travellers seeking a service upgrade without sacrificing affordability. Located between Economy and Business Classes, Premium Economy passengers enjoy 50 percent more seat room while being permitted a second piece of luggage up to 22kgs. Height-adjustable footrests, extra storage, electrical sockets, travel amenity kits and meals served on porcelain tableware round out this new level of personalized, tailored care now offered on all flights departing Canadian Lufthansa gateways (YYZ, YVR, YUL).

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Setting Standards Sky-high

Celebrating 60 years of Long-Haul Excellence Renowned for its First-Class lounges – each an icon of epicurean and lavish amenities (think cigar humidors, vintage cuvée, bubble baths, chauffeured transport directly to the aircraft) – it’s no surprise Lufthansa delights in defining the leading edge of luxury air travel.

But the real heart of the airline rests in its 60-year history as aeronautic innovator, setting new standards in all classes of service that keep pace with the evolving needs of the long-haul traveller. As the first airline to serve freshly-brewed coffee onboard in 1955, Lufthansa is leveraging its pedigree and applying it to the 21st Century. The results are worth fawning over - it’s positioned to become the Western Hemisphere’s first 5-star airline.

“We are listening to our customers, listening for what they want,” says CEO Karl Garnadt. “The consistency of our product is extremely important.” Overseeing 130 long-haul aircraft that fly more than 15 million passengers a year to 1300 worldwide destinations while keeping a close ear to passenger feedback has allowed Lufthansa to establish new initiatives that translates passengers into loyal guests.

It’s a strategy Lufthansa has extended to all facets of its service – from the fleet-wide wireless broadband Internet, FlyNet, to the celebrity chefs that bring hautecuisine concepts up to 30,000 feet. “I hope Lufthansa guests are just wowed with their eyes and then once they’ve started eating just wowed again,” says Grant Mickels, Executive Chef of Culinary Development, of what he playfully describes as “down to earth” food.

By adopting regional menus sourced with local, seasonal ingredients, this is a sophistication of air travel found across the service range and that speaks directly to Lufthansa’s commitment each one of its passengers.

The Future of Flight Travellers in 1955 could know little of the advancements that would sweep the airline industry in 60 years.The same might be said for travellers in 2015. Lufthansa already has its eyes set on the next 60, bringing their “Made in Germany” seal of quality to redefine the travel experience.

Contents Egypt, Giza, saddled camel resting near the pyramids

Features 37 Hong Kong Now Beneath Hong Kong’s ultramodern surface, Vawn Himmelsbach finds a city experiencing an artful renaissance.

43 Egypt On the path of history, hospitality and warm bread.

48 Cape Town, High and Low Looking for luxury without the price tag? The time to visit South Africa is now.

53 Decoding Martinique Great beaches, unspoiled natural beauty with a French joie de vivre.

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Contents

8

22 #Trending: Take a dip at one of these overwater resorts

25 #HereandNow: Palacio Belmonte a stunning sculpture, a synthesis of Portuguese history

The Cover: Red Lanterns at the Ocean Terminal, Hong Kong

28 #HereandNow: The Hills are Alive with the sights of Salzburg and the Sound of Music

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thisisegypt.com

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From new takes on classic destinations to off-the-beaten path secrets, let Exodus Travels introduce you to your world beyond sightseeing.

Cultural • Hiking • Cycling • Wildlife *Statistics based on feedback from 2014 up until the time of publication.

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SPECIAL FEATURE

El SALVADOR’S

BEACH ESCAPES Boasting two national parks, some of the best surf breaks in the world, wonderful museums and vast, haunting Mayan ruins, it is only a matter of time before all of the major tour operators begin to catch on. Our advice: Get on board to El Salvador now.

THE BEACHES EL TUNCO In recent years Playa El Tunco has come to be known as El Salvador’s most popular beach, but leisurely swimmers be warned; this particular stretch of sand is not the place to go for a relaxing dip. Rather, the intense playa lures surfers from near and far to hit the waves hard and, surviving that, to head straight for the numerous clubs that El Tunco’s thriving nightlife scene offers.

EL ESTERON One of El Salvador’s best kept secrets is the charming Playa El Esteron. Largely uninhabited and mostly ignored by the backpacker set, this sleepy beach on the eastern coast of El Salvador is the perfect compliment to perhaps too many nights spent partying in El Tunco. While away your days prowling for turtles, sipping pina coladas and basking in the sun.

EL SUNZAL Although El Salvador has carved a well earned place for itself in the extreme travel sector, the charming country has more than just the thrill of the surf to offer. Take Playa El Sunzal for instance, its pearl grey sands, myriad of lodging options -- from luxury to low-cost -- and its close proximity to the local water park, Parque Acuático El Sunzal, make it an ideal locale for solo travellers and families alike.

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Publisher’s Note

WHEN THE WORLD IS YOUR SUBJECT MATTER there is always a sense of awe and excitement in discovering something new – even about destinations you believe you know well.

I have always thought that our publication should be reflective of the moment. In this issue, we bring you three very different travel destinations that, despite the challenges of unimaginable wars and conflicts, share something in common: each is rich in culture, tradition and history. Above all, these destinations are #bold.

I have travelled extensively, wandering with a backpack through Central America and as a rolly-saddled business traveler in Brussels. With each trip I take, I realize anew that we are all interconnected in this journey of discoveries.

By pointing the way to distinctive indelible travel experiences, we realize that our raison d’être is to be a bold inspiration for travellers - thus it’s a privilege to bring you face to face with the wonders of the world. I hope you enjoy this issue as much as we’ve enjoyed creating it.

Safe travels!

Marlon J. Moreno Publisher

Young woman outside the Al-Hakim Mosque, Egypt. Photo by Osama Qandil

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Thank you for the type of adventure dreams are made of! Cycling the Cape Peninsula, champagne atop Table Mountain, coming face to face with elephants on safari, the unbelievable meals - the moments I’ll remember forever are endless. Thank you for taking care of all the details so I could make the most of South Africa.

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TO U R S TO 1 0 0 + CO U N T R I E S WO R L DW I D E C U LT U R A L

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HIKING & TREKKING

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WILDLIFE

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C YC L I N G

INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS

MARLON MORENO Publisher + Founder MATT LONEY Associate Editor MAGDA DE LA TORRE America’s Editor Art Direction and Design Peter Wootton F22 Visual Communications Inc. 1.905.985.8885 f22visual.com

VISIT THE WORLD’S MOST VERTICAL CITY,

ON POINTS.

CARLOS BOLIVAR Photography CHRISTYAN ESTRADA Production Assistant RAHUL NAIR Web Developer Public Relations Agency Jesson + Company jessonco.com 77 Bloor St. West, Suite 1200 Toronto, ON. M5S 1M2 info@jessonco.com MEDIA SPONSORSHIPS marketing@boldmagazine.ca CORRESPONDENCE The Hudson Bay Centre 20 Bloor St. East P.O. Box 75075 Toronto, ON. M4W 3T3 BOLD® is published bimonthly by Pulso Media Group Inc. Opinions express in BOLD are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers.

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www.boldmagazine.ca Inspiration for Travellers ®

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ADVERTISING For Advertising, Promotion, Reprints and Sponsorships inquiries marketing@boldmagazine.ca phone: 1.416.323.7828 extension 25 phone: 1.647.780.8082

CONTRIBUTERS Vawn Himmelsbach Writer Hong Kong Now - page 38 Only in Hong Kong you’ll have Pantyhose tea — a Hong Kongstyle milk tea brewed in a large tea sock that looks an awful lot like pantyhose (but isn’t).

Waheeda Harris Writer Egypt the land of hospitality - page 44 What sets Egypt apart? The Egyptian people, excited and proud to show off their country to visitors.

Subject to availability. Some restrictions may apply. For complete terms, visit rbc.com/travelredemption. † To receive the 15,000 bonus RBC Rewards points, your application form must be approved by us. Upon enrolment, 15,000 bonus RBC Rewards points will appear on your first monthly statement. This offer may not be combined or used in conjunction with any other offer. Royal Bank of Canada reserves the right to withdraw this offer at any time, even after acceptance by you. ®/™ Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC and Royal Bank are registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. ‡ All other trademarks are the property of their respective owner(s).

Anita Draycott Writer Cape Town, the land of luxury - page 48 The magic of Cape Town, lies in the remarkable mountain and ocean scenery combined with a sophisticated city vibe.

Short trips to the U.S.

Why you need travel insurance for those weekend vacations Most people think about getting travel insurance for a vacation to Europe or the Caribbean, but when it comes to weekend trips to the United States, many people don’t even consider insurance. For travellers who need emergency medical assistance during their trip, this can be a costly oversight. In fact, a 14-day U.S. hospital stay for trauma associated with a motor vehicle accident could cost around US$363,000.

“Whether you’re planning a weekend trip across the border to shop or attend a sports event, emergencies can happen — even on a short trip,” says Isabelle Forget, Head of Travel, RBC Insurance. “The cost of medical services in the United States can be very high, and Canadian government health insurance plans typically only cover a small part of these costs.”

RBC’s emergency medical insurance coverage comes with a variety of value added services, including:  One of the largest and most experienced 24/7 global emergency travel assistance networks in the world  Assistance from multilingual representatives who speak a minimum of two languages

RBC Visa‡ Infinite Avion® cardholders also have the ability to add on to the trip cancellation and interruption insurance coverage included on their credit card, which can also be purchased separately.

Trip cancellation and interruption covers your non-refundable travel arrangements when you have to cancel your trip, come home early or stay later at your destination.

 Access to an emergency medical team of specially trained, multilingual co-ordinators, doctors and nurses who are available to help clients who become injured or sick while travelling

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“Having comprehensive travel insurance, whether it’s through a premium credit card such as the RBC Infinite Avion card or a separate insurance package, will help give you the peace of mind you need while travelling,” explains Isabelle.

For more information, visit www.rbcroyalbank.com/travelinsurance

® / ™ Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. Used under licence. ‡ All other trademarks are the property of their respective owner(s).

Underwritten by RBC Insurance Company of Canada. In Quebec, certain coverages underwritten by RBC General Insurance Company. VPS91386

109725(04/2015)

Your World THE BEST OF THE GOOD LIFE

FRENCH IMPRESSIONS AFTER 25 YEARS, LOEWS’ CHIC-BOUTIQUE HOTEL VOGUE HOLDS ITS OWN IN THE HEART OF MONTRÉAL

Your World HOTEL VOGUE

N

estled neatly on Rue de la Montagne in Montreal’s Golden Square Mile, the old home of Canada’s Anglophone wealth, Loews Hôtel Vogue stands out from its competitors as the city’s benchmark of modernism and luxury. The boutique property, which is consistently ranked among Canada’s finest hotels, is also a consistent showcase for forward-looking mode and sophisticated design.

Officially opened in 1991 by Senneville Hotels Inc., the property originally served as the offices of American oil company Texaco but was redesigned Belcourt properties under the name Luxurious Hotel Vogue. The hotel, now a Loews Hotel Management holding, is this year celebrating its 25th anniversary and guests can expect subtle nods toward this accomplishment. The Lux Lounge, the hotel’s handsomely appointed, wood-paneled lobby bar, strikes quite the contrast from the bright lights and deco feel of the rest of the lobby.

The contrast of black and white bring freshness to the floor plan and the generous glass windows let plenty of light into the space and

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connect it to the street. It is open, airy and inviting. This year only, the bar is serving a special commemorative cocktail, the XXV. Guests who opt for the 25th anniversary package can also expect a complimentary travel pouch designed exclusively for Loews by celebrated Montreal fashion designer Rachel F. In 2013 the hotel was entirely renovated at a cost of approximately $10 million.

The 142 guest rooms now feature mutedcolours and contemporary style, which serve to highlight the Vogue prints that adorn the wall above the headboard. These chic elements are in keeping with the hotel’s overall modernist style and the artistic accents – such as the pendant chandelier and warped glass table that adorn the lobby.

The façade too received a facelift, with a newly remodeled canopy that brings to scale the pedestrian, inviting them to visit the hotel’s lobby. An addition to the property is La Société Bistro – the second property of the famed Toronto restaurant – whose gilded entrance beckons guests to enjoy its refined cuisine.

Visitors to Montreal will love the hotel’s location just off Rue Saint-Catherine, particularly those in need of some retail therapy. The high-end boutiques such as Holt Renfrew and Ogilvy are mere steps away as are the many museums and parts of McGill University’s historic campus. loewshotels.com/montreal-hotel; doubles from $259. - LIAM WILKINSON

TRANQUIL

ESCAPE

THRILLING ACTIVITIES

With 365 beaches, yachting, and exclusive accommodations the islands of Antigua and Barbuda have something for everyone to "Fall in Love."

HISTORIC SITES

www.visitantiguabarbuda.com | www.antiguabarbudabuzz.com

Your World TRENDING

Diviners THE

The allure of the sea is like a siren’s call.

Irresistible, it’s within us – our bodies, after all, are made up of almost two-thirds water.

Take a dip at one of these overwater resorts

Thailand Where are we? Point Yamu by COMO, Phuket What we love: Less than 30 minutes from Phuket international; less travel time means more time to get into the swim of things, in the pale blue of the Andaman Sea, with private terrace views of Phang Nga Bay. Rooms are a light touch of ocean-inspired turquoise and cool white hues. If you’re up for an outing, the resort has its own private island, a 40-minute cruise away by boat, where you can hang all day at the COMO Beach Club. And, speaking of private, with less than 80 rooms, you may just feel like you own the place. comohotels.com/pointyamu

Mexico It’s rare to find a property that features “overwater bungalows” in North America or the Caribbean, but Rosewood Mayakoba makes the most of its freshwater lagoon by suspending 18 suites over it.

The familiarity of Playa del Carmen as a getaway is enticing; the seclusion of the property and the plunge pools inspire serenity. www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/ mayakoba-riviera-maya Myanmar (Burma) This emerging destination already has a few heavy hitters in the hotel industry there. Shangri-La has an outpost in Yangon (Rangoon) and Novotel, better known for its business hotels on this side of world, has added a luxury property.

Novotel Inle Lake Myat Min features overwater villas that blend the hotel’s mid-century modern architectural aesthetic seamlessly with its natural, lakeside surroundings. Soaker bathtubs, king-sized beds, a living room that’s fit to entertain in, it all encourages lingering. www.novotel.com/gb/hotel9395-novotel-inle-lake-myatmin/index.shtml

Sri Lanka Tri Hotel on Koggala Lake in Galle is nestled in an island promontory, with waterside views, holistic treatments and Sri Lankan cultural experiences on the menu. The push here is sustainability – including living walls and solar power – meets luxury and, with only 10 light-filled suites, it’s hard to get any more luxurious than that. Trilanka.com BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

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Your World BEAUTY ESSENTIALS

Landing Gear No one feels like a million bucks after a long flight, but these carry on-sized editors’ picks go a long way toward getting you touchdown ready A spritz built for two. Hermès Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate was made to share, for her and for him. Crisp citrus and vegetal notes energize the senses while white musk adds a hint of masculine-meets-feminine edge.

Canada-en.hermes.com

Ready, Set, Go. The anti-pollution complex, aloe vera and rose floral water in Clarins Fix’ Make-Up spray do double duty, to protect, hydrate, refresh and soothe skin while in flight. Gentlemen, this one will work for you, too. www.clarins.com Brighten up. No sleep on the plane?

Hydrate under the eyes with Arbonne Calm Soothing Eye Gel to reduce puffiness for an instant, rested look. arbonne.com Royal Treatment. Repair and plump the skin with Guerlain Abeille Royale Daily Repair Serum, which infuses the skin with the natural healing properties of bees, including honey and royal jelly. guerlain.com/ca/en-ca

Soothe Operator. Too much sun exposure?

La Mer Renewal Oil to the rescue. Infused with the company’s nutrient-rich Miracle Broth and sea-sourced ingredients, it promises to boost the skin’s natural barrier. www.cremedelamer.com

In-flight facial. His: Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream for men helps to diminish lines while energizing the skin. And Hers: a lightweight moisturizer, such as La Prairie Skin Caviar Luxe Cream, absorbs quickly, allows for easy reapplication and protects skin from dehydration on board. www.elemis.com; www.laprairie.com

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Here & Now

INSPIRATION + BEAUTY + DESIGN

WORLD CLASS IN A

BATHROBE They say a man’s home is his castle. In Lisbon, Nelson Carvalheiro checks into a palace – and meets its warm and welcoming king

Here & Now PORTUGAL

A

s I walk into the cobblestone courtyard, passing beyond imposing red gates, I come to face an elderly man lying on a sofa reading a book. He is dressed in a fluffy white bathrobe, smoking a Partagas nº4 and sipping, from what I could tell from the aroma, freshly brewed coffee. He jumps from the sofa at the sound of my footsteps, opens his jade eyes wide and quickly extends his hand to greet me. “Bonjour, Monsieur. You must be Nelson! I was expecting you, welcome to Palacio Belmonte!”

At most world-class hotels you expect that your first welcome encounter be with a snappy doorman or a grim smiling hotel manager. Not here. Frederic Coustols, owner and lover of all things green and boutique is quick to explain that his Lisbon property is a luxury guest palace, rather than a hotel. “I bought the place to be my house and only after realized that it has 400 windows!” he says. “After all, I need some help to open and close them.”

I couldn’t help laughing and feeling an immediate connection with Frederic’s eccentric and dreamy alter ego – he calls himself a “landscape collector.” More so, when I see for my own eyes what he has set out to achieve while spending 10 years of his life and $26 million of his hardearned Euros in refurbishing Palacio Belmonte. “Breakfast is made to your order and there is no time limit – you can have it whenever and wherever you want,” he informs me. He continues to explain how the house is in balance with nature and its origins. “We rebuilt this house using the charter of Venice, and we kept the same natural ventilation heating and cooling techniques. If you like air-con, then I suggest the Ritz down below.”

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Once the House of the Earl of Belmonte, and with an intricate connection to the Portuguese Discoveries, the Belmonte is a stunning sculpture, a synthesis of Portuguese history. Frederic’s genuine taste mixes rare Portuguese antiques collected over the years, mixed with his personal collection of paintings and sculptures, bringing the house back to its past “splendour.” He then decided to open it to a very few for whom luxury is synonymous with simplicity and encountering one’s emotions.

The common area, eloquently dubbed “Piano Nobile” – noble floor – is where I found the latest and most impressive refurbishment made to the Palace when it was still under the rule of the Belmonte Family. Madly enriched by the spice and commodities trade from their concessions on the Portuguese overseas colonies, they spent today’s equivalent of 6M€ in azulejos – the tin-glazed ceramic tilework that’s famous in this region of Europe – spanning 38 panels with more than 58,000 individual azulejos. The themes range from biblical

scenes, Portugal of the Discovery Ages, even an interpretation of Homer’s Odyssey.

And it doesn’t stop here. The floor is lined with 300-yearold Russian fern wood. Frederic tells me that the wood was traded by the Earl for wine. “So typical of the Portuguese to give away what they have best.”

Making my way up the stairs – there are 13 sets of them, with more than 500 steps altogether – I begin to feel how much of a historical maze this property is on the inside. Room after room, corner after corner, going from a 7m-high ceiling to narrow, one-person passages made for children. It would be a challenge for the most experienced of explorers, so don’t be embarrassed if you get instantly lost. Frederic has set up the Belmonte’s top Bartolomeu de Gusmão Suite especially for me. Entirely built within a 7th-century Moorish Tower, this multi-level marvel is an ode to sober, small-detail design among an ancient backdrop.

With an octagonal living room lined with more Portuguese azulejos and an intimate pastel-salmon room with windows overlooking the old town of Alfama, it is a match for any Presidential Suite anywhere else in the world. As if it wasn’t enough, the snail stairs lead us to the suite’s private 20-sqm terrace… And wow. A view of Lisbon’s soft light, red corrugated-roof tops, endless varieties tile patterns and paintings, bright yellow creaking trams, winding narrow

streets that suddenly expand into a praça or empty out into the formidable river Tagus. I just love the way this city waves its silhouette down to the river as if itself was made from the water of the sea. It’s a cinematographer’s dream.

Frederic tells me that this terrace has witnessed its share of romance and marriage proposals. “We get our Michelin Star Chef José Avillez to come especially for the guests and they can have candle- and moonlit dinner here. So far, all the girls have said yes!” Frederic explains that it is his (and the Belmonte’s) philosophy to have the city’s restaurants do the job of calling to the palates of his guests. “The chef can come any time you want, but I am determined to make you walk the cobble streets and taste the good Portuguese food that is available in every little eatery.” The insider Lisbon knowledge is another great attribute and, by what I have experienced so far, I will trust where Frederic sends me.

He grabs me by the arm and says there is still a lot more to see, so we venture through the palace to other bespoke rooms, the Ricardo Reis and Alberto Caeiro Suites. “They are all named after historical Portuguese artists, writers, philosophers and thinkers,” Frederic says. “I want this house to be an ambassador for Portugal.”

On the way to the organic garden, I look out the floor to ceiling windows of the Maria Ursula room into the courtyard, where I can have a full frame view of the Belmonte family’s coat of arms, magnificently engraved in limestone above the big red gate that marks the entrance to the Palace. Who would have thought that perched on the top of Lisbon’s highest hill stands a private Mediterranean garden. The scent of blossoming wild orange trees fill the air, while the foot paths are covered in their white petals.

A sky-high fern, a pomegranate tree, a small organic potager and some wild rose bushes make up the green background of a place specifically made to relax, read or dream.

Frederic explains how he strategically planted the purple bougainvillea over the black marble swimming pool to disperse a purple hue into the palace when the midday sun shines a spotlight on the water. “It is salt water you know,” he adds. “No chlorine to hurt your eyes and the children love it. I am sure they do – I love it, too.”

If you are looking for gold plated luxury and overwhelming grandeur, Palacio Belmonte is definitely not for you. But if you don’t like hotels and are looking for a place where you are treated as an individual in every way, a place with a thousand stories with no crowd, no noise, no chocolate on the pillow, no television, just fresh air, space, light, your own laughter and music, then this is right up your alley. What makes the Belmonte so special, so unique, is Frederic’s ability to take a 10-suite home and add panoply of influences (from himself and from the house) and convert them into a palace. palaciobelmonte.com; Terrace Suites start at 600€ night BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

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Here & Now SALZBURG

THE HILLS ARE

ulie Andrews, playing Maria von Trapp in the film The Sound of Music, extoled her favourite things – bright copper kettles, silver-white winters, raindrops on roses, and so on – but I have other favourite things in Salzburg: the exquisite Hotel Sacher and its delectable, eponymous torte; the remarkable Salzburg Festival; the trick fountains (jeux d’eau) of the Hellbrunn Palace; and the legendary local bonbon, the Mozartkugeln. And did I mention the maestro himself, Mozart?

Some 300,000 tourists annually might also add that their favourite things here are the sights and sites of the film The Sound of Music, which just celebrated its 50th anniversary.

I have come to Salzburg and Salzburgerland to share in those festivities, as the film is inextricably entwined in the DNA of the city. Arguably, one of the top-grossing films of all time (when adjusted for inflation), it is the basis of a half-day tour.

I wanted to see as much as possible before attending the gala

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CLOCKWISE FROM THE FAR LEFT: Cityscape of Salzburg; Marionettentheatre Sound of Music, Salzburg; View of Kapitelplatz (Chapter Square); Jedermann’s open air performance.

party at the legendary Felsenreitschule, the Summer Riding School, a dramatic concert hall carved partially out of the face of a mountain.

My first stop was the rococo Leopoldskron Palace (Schloss Leopoldskron), just outside Salzburg, used for many scenes in the movie; the most well known was shot in the back yard, lakeside, where the von Trapp children and Maria inadvertently tipped their canoe and fell into the drink! Built by Leopold Anton Freiherr von Firmian, the Prince Archbishop of Salzburg, the palace was opened in 1736. One of its later, prominent owners – theatre impresario and director Max Reinhardt – is credited with co-founding the worldrenowned Salzburg Festival. It was also on the grounds that Liesl and Rolf sang their duet “Sixteen Going on Seventeen,” in the gazebo-music pavilion. Because of the heavy tourist traffic, the gazebo was moved to the grounds of the Hellbrunn Palace.

The Hellbrunn is a magical place, indeed; built in the early 17th century by Markus Sittikus von Hohenems, another Prince Archbishop of Salzburg, it is dotted with hidden fountains that could suddenly spray the Archbishop’s unsuspecting dinner guests with mists of water. There are also fanciful grottoes that feature delightful, mechanical, musicaltheatrical tableaux, one with 200 automata that represent various professions; as they sway and gesticulate, they charm viewers of all ages.

The vibrantly hued Mirabell Gardens in town was used peripherally only in the “Do-Re-Mi” sequence, but it, too, is BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

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Here & Now SALZBURG WHEN YOU GO For a pleasant and relaxing trip to and from Austria, fly Austrian Airlines Business Class; service is superb, flat beds are comfy, and the lounges at both departure points— North America and Austria—are well equipped with the amenities a traveler needs and wants. On board, the Flying Chef and the Coffeehouse in the Sky make the dining experience an A-plus.

Sound of Music Tours are staged by panoramatours.com.

For general travel information: austria.info; salzburg.info; salzburgerland.com

worth more than a mere look-see. The nearby Nonnberg Abbey is still an active convent (only the church is open to visitors) and it is where Maria (née Kutschera) became a novice in 1924; and it was also where she and Georg von Trapp were married. In the celluloid retelling, however, their nuptials took place in the quaint village of Mondsee, in St.Michael’s Basilica at the Mondsee Abbey.

About 30 miles south of Salzburg, in the countryside of Salzburgerland, you can hike the approximately threequarter-mile Sound of Music Trail, which starts in Werfen and ends at the Gschwandtanger plateau, where Maria and the children picnicked, and where she taught them “Do-Re-Mi.” There is a trompe l’oeil viewing station here, in which you can magically see them all frolicking!

You may also want to add a few other stops on your cinematiclocation trip: Aigen, where the actual von Trapp homestead stood; Schloss Frohnburg (Frohnburg Palace), which served as the exterior of the von Trapp home, where, upon von Trapp’s (played

by Christopher Plummer) return home from a trip, he tore down a Nazi flag affixed to his front door. Prancing down a tree-lined roadway, outside the palace, Maria sings “Confidence,” as she makes her way to the von Trapp home for the first time.

It is safe to say, because so many locations here are infused with Sound of Music associations, that the hills are virtually alive with music. Add Mozart into the mix, and you have an even greater symphony. And, as an aside, take a tip from my guide, which will enable you to be a musical pro here, too: Singsong “my little old la-aa-dy” a few times, et voilà! You are an expert yodeler!

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Summer in Salzburg with view to the Mirabellgarten.

OPPOSITE; Hotel Sacher terrace and superior suite; Cityscape at night.

TRAVEL INTEL UPGRADE AND TRAVEL SMARTER: OUR CHECKLIST TO NAVIGATING THE WORLD

The Insider’s Top 15 Make travel a necessity, not a luxury. These tips will help you be less of a tourist and more of a traveller. Because when the travel bug bites, no Benadryl pen in the world is going to make the itch go away

By Doug Wallace

PRE-TRIP PREP 1. Collect points Get smart with your money in ways that go beyond just tucking away a few dollars every paycheque. Find a credit card that offers the best travel points option and use it – at the grocer, at the drugstore, even to buy a take-out lunch – racking up the points with every cent you spend. The interest rates will be high, so pay it off completely every month and never run a balance.

Travel cards are rated annually, so research the reviews to find the one that’s right for you.

2. Shop smart Start hunting for vacations well before the sun, ski or European season begins. The earlier you book, the better the price – and the more likely it will be paid for before you

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even step on the plane. It also doesn’t hurt to have your travel plans firm in your mind, ready when the price is right. If seeing the Northern Lights in Iceland is on your bucket list, sign up for the Icelandair newsletter and wait for the sale. Ditto discount travel outfits like Hipmunk.

3. Time it right How flexible are you? Travelling just before or after high season can lead to savings, and some destinations offer huge deals during their lowest period. Think Mexico in September, Europe in November, New Zealand in June.

The day of the week matters, too.

Flying on a Tuesday or a Saturday will net you cheaper fares and less-crowded planes. This also goes for extended long weekends away: Saturday to Tuesday is always cheaper than Thursday to Sunday.

4. Do your homework Sure, winging it works to a certain extent. But to get the most out of your holiday, research it until your eyes bleed. Hit the Internet to read absolutely everything you can about your destination, including the reviews of other travellers.

Discover what you want to explore, how to get there and how long it will take to cover the ground so you don’t waste precious vacation time sitting on the computer in your hotel room. Make dinner reservations in advance from home: Cities like Boston seem to have way more people than restaurant chairs.

5. Pack early Haul out a suitcase and throw in the seasonal stuff you know you’ll need right away. This is also a good time to discern if anything needs to be mended, dry-cleaned or replaced. Start a list on your phone and add to it as things occur to you, and make another list of stuff you need to buy. Then do a big wash several days beforehand and throw all your favourite items into the suitcase. Is there going to be a washer and dryer at your destination or a laundromat nearby? This can halve the amount of clothes you need to take.

IN TRANSIT 6.

Leave early

It’s surprising how many people have to race to the airport. Not you. Not even if you’re flying at 6 a.m. Book a car service the day before, so you have a set time of departure. That extra half hour of pottering around the house is not worth missing the plane over – you can lounge in the airport lounge.

As well, who knows what kind of a mess the highway could be in?

What if it’s closed? What if you have a fender bender?

9.

Beware of germs

From the second you board the plane until you are at your destination, never touch your face.

Eye and nose rubbing is taboo.

Wipe down arm rests and your tray table – especially the latch – with a disinfecting towelette, ignoring the looks you might get. In the lavatory, use the anti-bacterial gel instead of the soap and water. Bring a small bottle of your own gel to use once you’re back at your seat.

ON THE GROUND

7. Be efficient Eliminate pocket fishing at airport security by putting everything in your jacket and nothing in your pants first thing in the morning.

Don’t wear any clothing that comes with any excessive metal hardware, and be up-front about any metal joints or limbs. Pack your belt in the carryon so we all don’t have to watch you take it off and then put it back on again, and wear loafers so you don’t have to deal with shoe laces. And for God’s sake wear socks.

8. Tune out Get a good night’s sleep the night before you leave – no hangovers allowed. Speaking of which, alcohol just tends to make an in-flight nap more fitful. Choose a window seat nowhere near the bathroom or the galley noise and avoid the bulkheads where parents with infants tend to get seated. A neck pillow and earplugs go without saying. Keep sleep aids simple.

11. Beat jetlag

10. Don’t work Resist the urge to work on the plane. Power-down and give your brain a break. Load your iPad with that documentary you’ve been meaning to watch or review a language app of the country you’re heading to (quietly, of course).

Brush up on the news of the day at your destination, so you’ll have something to add to the local chit-chat. This is an especially good idea if you’re travelling on business and meeting up with foreign colleagues.

For overnight flights, tell yourself: “It’s currently 4 a.m. where I’m landing” the moment you get on the plane. The power of suggestion can work wonders for resetting your inner clock. Upon landing, try to adjust to your destination’s time as quickly as possible. If it’s morning, have breakfast. If it’s 3 p.m., go shopping. If it’s midnight, go to bed. Resist the urge to cave and have a nap.

12. Save and splurge Smart travellers get the fact that they need to cut corners in some areas so they can afford something else down the road. If you’re spending a small fortune on flights, save on the hotel or rent an apartment. Or take the money you saved on that web deal and spend it on a nice meal or a massage. Backpacking for a week and dog-tired?

Splurge on the thread count on the last day. Never likely to visit your destination ever again? Splurge on something memorable.

14. Talk the talk Remember that when you are in a foreign country, you are the foreigner, so at least try to speak the native tongue of the country you’re visiting. While you may never master Turkish or Japanese, you can learn how to say hello and goodbye, please and thank you.

You should also be able to count to five, order a beer and ask for a receipt, so pack a pocket-sized phrase book and use it. People are so appreciative when you make an effort.

15. Go off-script You know what they say about the best-laid plans. Travelling isn’t really about hotels and shops and museums, it’s about people and stories and food. Pack your sense of adventure and allow things to happen to you. Travelling is also a great chance to step outside yourself without being self conscious, so don’t pass that up.

Talk to strangers, learn how to throw a pot, go to a yoga class for the first time in your life, smoke a cigar. Live in the moment and learn how to improvise.

13. Sleep when you can Travelling is hard work. Even lying on the beach all day gets tiring, right? Learning how to catnap – on the plane, bus, train, wherever you can catch a few winks – will help you last from morning to night with nary a yawn in sight. You just never know when noisy neighbours or a sick child are going to keep you up all night. Rather than bore yourself to death shadowing an avid shopper, find a nearby park bench and doze off.

Doug Wallace is in a cab to the airport practically every other week.

He can help you make every holiday minute count at TravelRight.Today www.travelright.today

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The iconic Clock Tower.

HK RBC AVION PRESENTS: HONG KONG 速

“Hong Kong’s art scene has ventured beyond the conventional museum and gallery space”

Art display from the Almine Rech Gallery.

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HONG KONG NOW Beneath Hong Kong’s ultramodern surface, Vawn Himmelsbach finds a city experiencing an artful renaissance

T Photo by Jessica Hromas

o the first-time visitor, Hong Kong can feel overwhelming: a concrete maze of mile-high skyscrapers, thick as a forest, with dozens of cranes on the horizon. There’s a feeling of motion, of a city on a mission to modernize. But spend some time here, and you start to sense something else: a grassroots, indie spirit in its neighbourhoods. Hidden doors to trendy bars, renowned chefs in intimate, hard-to-find restaurants, crumbling historic buildings housing carefully curated art galleries, old warehouses converted into creative hubs for artists and designers.

Just a few years ago, Hong Kong was considered a cultural desert.

Now it’s experiencing what some are calling a ‘creative awakening.’

There’s still, however, a tendency to rip down the old in favour of new development, but some young designers, artists and entrepreneurs are turning the “old” into something new.

“Hong Kong’s art scene has ventured beyond the conventional museum and gallery space,” says Alan Lo, co-founder of Duddell’s, a space for food, art and socializing. With independent art spaces in residential apartments, performance art in public parks and museum-quality curated exhibitions in shopping malls, Hong Kong’s new cultural context is constantly evolving and integrating art into the daily lives of the people of Hong Kong.

“Art is now closer to people than it has ever been before,” says Lo. “Duddell’s was conceptualized with this in mind, bringing art to the people in a fresh new way and offering an all-round cultural expeBOLDMAGAZINE.CA

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FROM TOP: PMQ or Former Police Married Quarters has been revitalized as a creative hub for local design talents, which is located in the middle of SoHo, in Central, Hong Kong; Designers Rex Yam and Joey Ku - founders of 22 Degrees North - a concept store to promote local brands.

rience – a place where you can eat, drink and socialize while appreciating the art within our venue.”

Duddell’s has been designed to emanate the eclectic home of an art collector – one that also happens to have a Michelin -star Cantonese restaurant. When it first opened in 2013, though, Hong Kong’s local art community was still in the midst of development.

“With Duddell’s, we wanted to build a community around art, providing the public with a space outside of the more known commercial gallery context, to collaborate with local and international curators in a unique way,” says Lo.“We were also looking for a space for people to convene and share ideas.”

With this in mind, Lo invited cultural leaders such as Yana Peel and William Zhao to form an art committee focused on planning a year-round art programme that would include exhibitions curated by prominent art personalities as well as a continuous series of art talks, performances, film screenings and other events by Hong Kong’s cultural innovators.

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Today, Hong Kong’s art scene is booming, but Lo says this is way overdue.“With China becoming an economic superpower and [a] growing collector base in Southeast Asia, Hong Kong naturally became the epicentre of art trade in Asia,” he says. “M+ is only three years away and no doubt it’s going to be the most important institution in Asia.”

Scheduled to open in 2019, M+ will be a museum of visual culture focusing on 20th and 21st century art, design and architecture. Designed by Swiss architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron – known for the Tate Modern museum in London and Beijing’s Bird’s Nest stadium – M+ is being built on reclaimed land. And, according to the West Kowloon Cultural District, the architects are “excavating a ‘found space’ for large-scale installations from around the existing Airport Express train tunnel that runs underneath.”

Despite this boom, it’s not easy for local artists and designers to make their mark in Hong Kong, or on a global scale.

Rent is expensive in a city that has no space to expand outward – only upward. So they’re reclaiming urban spaces, from old tenement buildings to warehouses and industrial zones.

Artist Lee Kit and curator Chantal Wong are two of the city’s entrepreneurial forces that have created a grassroots non-profit arts space called ‘Things,’ located in Sham Shui Po – a gritty, seedy historic area in Kowloon. Located in a tong lau (historic tenement building), it offers a programme of events and exhibitions, and is meant to provide a space for experimentation and dialogue beyond Hong Kong’s glitzy high-end galleries.

As described on the “Things” website: “Recent political developments in Hong Kong have triggered a spirit of political and civil urgency amongst the city’s population.

These resistance movements are not only shifting the sciopolitical landscape but have also roused a creative awakening amongst the people of Hong Kong and inspired a profound reimagination of the city and its citizens. It is vital at this juncture to provide platforms that continue nurturing this sense of curiosity, especially in a city where imagination and experimentation continue to find little structural support.”

A walk through the streets of Sham Shui Po, alongside second-hand electronics shops and haberdashery stalls, reveals young entrepreneurs having found affordable spaces to set up shop – from coffee houses to vintage bike shops to 100ft Park, a new mini-art space. There’s also 22 Degrees North, set up by designers Rex Yam and Joey Ku as a concept store to promote local brands (including their own), as well as provide a meeting point for local creative professionals with regular art and cultural events.

Around Hong Kong, there’s an emergence of these new spaces – some run by artists, others run as public-private partnerships.

Alan Lo, co-founder of Duddell’s, a space for food, art and socializing; Duddell’s Interior; Art display from the Atlas Gallery - Art Basel 2016.

One such partnership is PMQ, near the art galleries and boutiques of Sheung Wan and Hollywood Road. Originally the campus for Queen’s College, the site was transformed into the Police Married Quarters after the Second World War and, eventually, fell into disrepair. Now, those residential units have been converted into design studios, shops and restaurants, with spaces for pop-up shops, exhibits, events and even a night market. Efforts have also been made to maintain the original features of the site, such as the rubble retaining wall.

The mission of PMQ is to nurture ‘create-preneurs’ and to support Hong Kong’s creative industry through collaboration between design talents and business professionals. “PMQ wants to be the unique platform for Hong Kong’s creative industry to promote the appreciation of creativity and design among the public,” says Victor Tsang, executive director with PMQ. A panel of experts selects applicants based on their creative

portfolio, business plan and willingness to work with other designers in PMQ. The successful applicants then enter into a two-year contract with PMQ, receiving subsidized rent as well as other supports while they build their business.

There are more than 100 creative enterprises here, and visitors can meander through the complex, watch artists at work and buy their wares – from fashion to jewellery, ceramics, leatherwork and home décor – directly from the artists themselves.

“We hope these local talents can open their markets from PMQ, and that eventually they will be able to sustain their business and continue to thrive without our help,” says Tsang.

“Our tenants have, from time to time, shared that it could not be possible for them to start their studios if not for PMQ.” Aside from a growing number of spaces for art, design and culture, there are also more events that showcase Hong Kong’s creative side. Indeed, Hong Kong’s ‘coming out’ is often associated with Art Basel in 2013 – when the world’s most BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

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While Hong Kong is home to myriad commercial galleries in Central – Pedder Building alone houses Gagosian, Ben Brown Fine Arts, Lehmann Maupin, Simon Lee Gallery, Hanart TZ and Pearl Lam Galleries – Ooi also recommends a visit to Para Site, a non-profit contemporary arts centre. It was founded in 1996 as an artist-run space, making it one of the oldest independent art institutions in Asia.

And anyone visiting Hong Kong should check out the South Island Cultural District (SICD), she says, which was founded in 2013 and is now a destination for 22 local and international art galleries, studios and non-commercial art institutions. But Ooi’s personal favourite? “I’d definitely recommend a visit to the Hong Kong Museum of History in Tsim Sha Tsui East, where I’ve seen some really lovely shows of ceramics and historical artifacts.”

While Hong Kong’s creative side is still taking shape, it’s an exciting time for up-and-coming local artists and designers.

This creative awakening provides opportunities for the public – and international visitors – to see Hong Kong in a new light, where ‘old’ and ‘new’ co-exist to create something wonderfully unique.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Temple Street Market at night; Bodhi Wishing Shrine; Art display at Art Basel. OPPOSITE: Tian Tan Buddha.

prestigious art fair began holding an annual event in Hong Kong.

Events such as Art Basel, as well as Art Gallery Week and various other art fairs that take place throughout the cultural calendar in Hong Kong, provide a number of platforms to highlight local and international talents, says Adeline Ooi, director of the Asian branch of Art Basel.

“The art scene in Hong Kong has definitely become more diversified and dynamic as a result of the growth of the art market and the increasing numbers of galleries opening here from all over the world,” she says. “We’re also, this year at Art Basel in Hong Kong, seeing increased interest in photography and precisely curated booths – a number of galleries are choosing to exhibit only one or two artists.”

This year, 25 galleries from Hong Kong will participate in Art Basel, taking place in March. New entrants include Blindspot Gallery and Galerie Ora-Ora, which will be participating in ‘Insights’ for the first time. Another highlight will be the unveiling of a new work by Hong Kong artist Samson Young, who was awarded the first BMW Art Journey in collaboration with Art Basel – a prize that saw him travel across five continents recording the sounds of historic bells.

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WALK LIKE AN EGYPTIAN On the path of history, hospitality – and warm bread

By Waheeda Harris There is a welcome chaos in the city of Cairo: from unrelenting traffic on the streets to the constant chatter of sidewalk vendors and shopkeepers, the cacophony becomes its own symphony within this metropolis of nine million.

As my group gathers in the shaded courtyard garden of the Cairo Marriott, the heady scents of brewed coffee and fresh baked bread are our first signs of Egyptian hospitality.

Within minutes of expressing curiosity at the source of said scent, our server happily brings us a steaming plate of bread, handmade by a group of bakers at the outdoor oven. It is the first of many friendly gestures in a country who Dazzling Sunset in Giza, Egypt.

has welcomed visitors for centuries.

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B

eing a part of the first tour group lead by Insight Vacations in Egypt in three years, our group was unanimous in a long-time dream to visit this ancient land, despite the recent years of political unrest. Our Insight guide Mohamed Raghab, with Masters degrees in Egyptology and Tourism, is like a traveller concierge eager to show us his country’s past and present, promising daily lessons in deciphering hieroglyphics, with our group’s assurance to be good students.

The next day brings us to the city of Luxor, the former capital of Thebes, and the starting point of our lessons.We’re soon walking in the footsteps of the ancients, entering the Karnak Temple, the second largest ancient temple site in the world after Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, and seeing the rebuilding of the Avenue of the Sphinxes. We’re led

by Mohamed to the immense entrance of Luxor Temple, built in 1400 BCE and flanked by sandstone sculptures of Ramses II. It seems fitting to end our day of exploration in the shadows of the ruins, hearing the distinctive call to evening prayers and surrounded by small groups of friendly locals, acting as tourists in their country. We realize how lucky we are to be in Egypt without crowds surrounding us.

Welcomed into our new home, Uniworld’s River Tosca ship, the effusive staff greet us with cool scented towels to wipe away the dust, ask about our day in Luxor and offer iced glasses of fresh squeezed juice. Lively discussions of the day dominate dinner, and I have to pinch myself that I stood in the Luxor Temple, in the same spot where its builder Amenhotep III also stood more than 3000 years ago. Soon we’re headed to bed, early, excited for tomorrow’s explorations.

Mohamed leads us into the famed Valley of the Kings, explaining its complex history as we explore the tombs of pharaohs Ramses, Seti, Tuthmosis and the famous boy king, Tutankhamen. After walking the immense mortuary temple of Queen Hatshepsut, Mohamed suggests a stop in a local village for tea. As we walk, I see a group of kids playing.

They immediately crowd around to high-5 me when I put out my hand in welcome. They ask in Arabic if I’m from Cairo, because I’m wearing sunglasses, like big city ladies, making Mohamed laugh as he explains who I am. The women of the household stop their chores to smile and wave as I say my goodbyes to my tribe of new friends. At tea at a local cafe, a villager comes to tempt the group with colourful scarves and, as we buy, our gift with purchase is, yet again, warm bread.

Back on the ship, the crew welcomes us with icy bottles of water, and we’re soon sailing south, waving at the locals on the riverbanks.

We become adventurers with A-list amenities: one moment we’re in the shade of Edfu and Kom Ombo’s sites, learning about Egyptian deities and expanding our knowledge of hieroglyphics, the next we’re pampered with cocktails and canapés on the Tosca’s upper deck,

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CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Insight Vacations’ tour Director Mohamed with guests at the entrance of the Luxor Temple; Sphinx at the Luxor Temple; Merchant in an Egyptian Bazaar; High tea ​service a​ t the Old Cataract Hotel; Traditional Bazaar; local woman baking bread.

gazing at the Nile’s surrounding farmlands by day and endless stars in the evening sky at night. As I look over my photographs before bedtime, I feel like I’ve found treasure like Indiana Jones, but one that will never be taken from me.

As the Tosca glides south in the late morning sun, a member of the crew leads us in a relaxing yoga class. But then the tables are turned, with one of our group teaching tai chi basics, and our teacher now student, laughing at his lack of grace as we enjoy the camaraderie of ship life. We learn about modern day life of Egyptians from the crew, how tourism has been affected by the country’s political instability and their wish for tourists from around the globe to come once again to their country.

The post-dinner entertainment starts with a whirling belly dancer and then it’s time for the crew to take centre stage, joyously singing Arabic folk and pop songs and encouraging the group to dance.

As we shimmy in the makeshift disco, we’re soon breathless with laughter at ourselves and grateful to the crew for another dose of Egyptian hospitality.

Arriving in Aswan, a quick visit to the famous dam and tea at the Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Hotel is followed by a flight to Abu Simbel, the only Egyptian temples built to worship a king. There are fewer than 20 people on the grounds, and as our group explores the buildings, the local guards ask for pictures with us and inquire if we’re hungry, as always, wanting to welcome us.Two flights and we’re back in the noisy confines of Cairo, back to the scent of the bread at the Cairo Marriott. A scent that none of us will forget. The scent of an Egyptian welcome.

WHEN YOU GO Images courtesy of Insight Vacations

Insight Vacations offers six guided itineraries to Egypt, including the 10-day “Wonders of Egypt” and 21-day “Land of the Prophets” journeys, travel in business class coaches, and the services of a personal Egyptologist. Signature Experiences include a four-day cruise along the Nile River.

For more, visit www.insightvacations.com or call 1-866-747-8120.

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Cape Town

HIGH AND LOW LOOKING FOR LUXURY WITHOUT THE PRICE TAG? THE TIME TO VISIT SOUTH AFRICA IS NOW

BY ANITA DRAYCOTT

C

apetonians have a right to be smug. The sheer grandeur of Cape Town’s setting, crowned by Table Mountain with sweeping bays and mountainsides cascading down to sugary beaches, makes it one of the most scenic cities on the planet.

Sir Frances Drake wasn’t exaggerating when he said this was “the fairest Cape we saw in the whole circumference of the earth.”

A stroll around the city centre reveals remnants of a vibrant and sometimes tumultuous

history. Up until the late 1800s Cape Town was a thriving port and sea link between Europe and the East. There’s a unique style here where whitewashed gabled Cape Dutch buildings sit beside monuments to British imperial legacy – reminders of the early Dutch settlers and the British occupation. Down at the Waterfront you’ll find the four life-size sculptures of Nobel Peace Prize laureates Desmond Tutu, Albert Luthuli, FW de Klerk and Nelson Mandela, who helped create democracy in South Africa after apartheid.

The sculptures represent the diversity of this city of 3.75 million and, unlike frenetic Johannesburg, there’s a casual vibe here. No jacket, no tie, no attitude. Even better, our Canadian dollar is much stronger than the South African Rand, so you can afford to live it up at bargain prices. Here’s where to get the best bang for your Rand.

Breathtaking view of the Delaire Graff Estate.

Cape Town

Life-size sculpture of Nobel Peace Prize laureates Albert Luthuli, Desmond Tutu, FW de Klerk and Nelson Mandela, who helped create democracy in South Africa after apartheid.

The “you only live once” splurge list

Taste the Test Kitchen The Test Kitchen was chosen as Restaurant of the Year 2014 in South Africa by Eat Out. It also ranked 28th in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants (sponsored by S. Pellegrino and Acqua Panna). After a recent lunch at chef/owner Luke Dale-Roberts’ culinary laboratory, I can vouch that those lofty accolades are well deserved. The team serves multi-course tasting menus with the option of pairing each course with a wine selected by the sommelier, or an exotic tea, such as Pink Flamingo. There is also a vegetarian menu. My Lunch Discovery included trout ceviche, langoustines with pickled shitake, curried kingklip, spring lamb and stout sponge cake. Be sure to reserve far in advance.

The Old Pink Lady Capetonians call the landmark Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel “the old pink lady.” Situated a short stroll from downtown, the pastel pink old gal is quite a charmer. This is the place to celebrate with high tea. The Librisa Spa carries skin care products using ingredients harvested from the Kalahari Desert.

Taste the Wine The jewel in the crown of the Western Cape properties is the Delaire Graff Estate, owned by the British diamond magnate Lawrence Graff.

Situated on the crest of the vertiginous Helshoogte Mountain pass between Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, there appears to be not a blade of grass nor flower bed not perfectly manicured. Inside the jasmine-scented entrance, visitors may gawk at the Delaire Sunset, the largest fancy vivid yellow square emerald-cut diamond in the world, weighing in at 118.08 carats.

The tasting room, set up like a lounge, uses only the finest Riedel stemware. There is, of course, a Graff jewelry shop should you wish to purchase some baubles along with your bubbles. The restaurant

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serves bistro-chic cuisine inspired by daily produce from the estate’s gardens. The property is dotted with splendid sculptures by South African artists. Just up the hill the Relais et Chateaux Delaire Graff Lodges & Spa offers villa-style accommodations. If you only visit one wine estate, make it this one.

Room with a View Open the door to the entrance of the Cape View Clifton boutique hotel and you’ll be gob smacked by the view of the sea and beaches below.

Every luxuriously appointed seafront suite has a private balcony.

This is a spot for the discerning traveller who doesn’t want to be the anonymous guest in room 2004.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Balcony view from the The Belmond Mount Nelson; Delaire Graff Wine Lounge Interior; The Test Kitchen entrance; Delaire Graff Restaurant Bar; View from the pool at the Cape View Clifton boutique hotel; Interior garden and pool view at the The Belmond Mount Nelson.

Cape Town

​Lobby at the Grand Daddy Boutique Hotel; Vintage Airstream trailer roof top. ​

The “cheap thrills” save list

Saturday at the Neighbourgoods Market On Saturdays the Neighbourgoods Market, located inside the Old Biscuit Mill, is the place to stroll and graze. Vendors dish out all sorts of goodies from smoothies to pizza to dim sum to curries.

Java Jolt Owner David Donde has made coffee his lifelong passion and Truth, at 36 Buitenkant Street, is a shrine to the beans. The scene at Truth is “steampunk.” Think neo-Victorian retro punk inspired by the 19th century steam-powered machines. The wait staff wears outlandish costumes including funky hats, aviator goggles, leather jewelry, aprons and vests. If you’re serious about your java, Truth offers barista courses for fun or your future career in coffee.

on the roof. Each one is decorated with a different South African theme (safari, wine lands, beach house, etc.) You can also watch a movie under an African sky at the Pink Flamingo Rooftop Cinema.

Of All the Gin Joints Downtown at 219 Bree Street, head into Mother’s Ruin Gin Bar for a choice of more than 70 brands of today’s trendiest liquor. Mother’s Ruin, a moniker that the spirit earned in the 1720s, when it was the most widely abused form of alcohol in the world, is the first dedicated gin bar in Cape Town. Union Jack cushions and more whimsical touches play tribute to the tipple’s British origins.

Tapas for Two The unique tapas and presentation at the Chefs Warehouse & Canteen are so good you won’t believe the price. Approximately $45 buys multi courses of tapas of the day for two. The funky canteen with communal tables is also a shop selling cookware, gourmet groceries and cookery books.

Glamping at the Grand Daddy The Grand Daddy Boutique Hotel offers nice rooms but you might consider “glamping” in one of seven vintage Airstream trailers located

FROM THE LEFT: The Chefs Warehouse & Canteen, Mother’s Ruin Gin Bar, Truth Coffee Interior by Haldane Martin, Photo Micky Hoyle.

Decoder

STAY EAT SEE+DO SHOP

INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

Great beaches, unspoiled natural beauty – but what really sets it apart is its European joie de vivre. Mark Stevens leads the way through this French Caribbean Island

Decoder MARTINIQUE

STARTING POINT

Get the Lay of the Land Pointe du Bout This community comprises Martinique’s chief resort area, occupying the southern shore of Baie de Fort-de-France.

Stay

Fort-de-France Martinique’s capital features a gorgeous cathedral, three forts, unparalleled shopping, formal gardens and nearly a hundred restaurants, from Creole to Thai. Don’t miss: Schoelcher Library for its architecture, shopping on Rue Victor Hugo.

The North Here are the emerald sky-reaching slopes of Mount Pelée volcano and mountain streams meandering through pristine stretches of rainforest.

The South Some of the island’s most beautiful scenery – from ocean views of sapphire seas to undulating meadows where sugar cane sashays in the breeze.

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Where to check in: Here, the spots we’re excited about HOTEL LA PAGERIE

HOTEL BAKOUA

Given its proximity to bistros, shops, three great beaches and a stone’s throw to Fort-de-France (via scenic ferry ride), Hotel La Pagerie is a natural. Casually elegant, the property offers an open-air lobby with an airy bar situated to one side, a poolside restaurant and gorgeous gardens surrounding a freeform pool flanked by courtyard inner-facing rooms. Serene greens and calming blues dominate the colour scheme. hotel-lapagerie.com/en/

With its own beach (and a fabulous beach bar on stilts right in the water) this hotel offers rooms with private balconies and sea views with Creole-influenced architecture and furnishings, strategically located at Pointe du Bout. hotel-bakoua.fr/en

LE CAP EST LAGOON RESORT AND SPA Decidedly upscale and located on the windward side, this resort is both secluded and elegant.

Creole-meets-Asia in suites, some with private pools, are decorated with natural fabrics

and exotic woods. Tired of fun in the sun? Book a spa treatment. capest.com

CLUB MED BUCCANEER’S CREEK Brought to you by the people who invented all-inclusive, this property located near one of Martinique’s best beaches takes all the worry – and thinking – out of your getaway. Located in a prime scuba destination, the resort has whimsically painted rooms and suites surrounded by lush gardens, snug in the shelter of emerald mountains. clubmed.ca

Eat Where to dine: The Island’s hottest tables LE PITAYA Located right beside the pool at La Pagerie, Le Pitaya, like the hotel itself, combines casual and elegant. From simple offerings like grilled sirloin (both beef and potatoes perfectly prepared) to mains like Asian-infused rack of lamb, this is the perfect location – since you’re staying here anyway – for “dining in.”

Rated one of Point du Bout’s top restaurants.

selling point? Best rum list on Martinique.

BISTRO D’EN FACE

LE PETIBONUM

Great spot for an evening cocktail or a casual lunch or dinner.

A well-stocked deli at the rear offers delicacies you’d expect to find in Paris, the surroundings (including a stainless steel bar imported from France) scream savoire-faire. One more

Hosted by a quirky chef, this beachside eatery is casual but still downright haute cuisine.

Creole-inspired, its appetizers are as appealing as its mains, though you can still get a burger.

Biggest selling point? One of the nicer beaches on the island, a mere 20 metres from the surf.

DRINK THIS

RHUM AGRICOLE

TI PAYOT, LES ANSES D’ARLET Must-do if you’re hitting the beaches in the south. Think beach hut – brightly painted trim, thatched roof, rudimentary tables. Menu casual and limited but the ambience is worth it – hilly surroundings and yachts swinging gently at anchor.

They use local sugar cane juice as opposed to molasses, resulting in a unique flavour they take seriously. Martinique even has a system – AOC Martinique Rhum Agricole – a sort of rum VQA. But don’t worry, there’s always enough to go around.

Ten distilleries on Martinique, a multitude of rum-tasting tours (see See+Do)

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Decoder MARTINIQUE

See+Do Three places worth the detour.

KAYAK NATURE EVASION Get back to nature with a bit of exercise; take a break from sun, sand and shopping. Kayak across limpid sky-blue waters with great views of Fort de France in the distance, stands of mangrove dead ahead. Sign up for a quick introduction, book a full day kayak adventure or even bond with the birds during a nocturnal excursion

DOMAINE EMERAUDE A regional National Park area, this estate boasts breath-taking views of Mt. Pelée, formal gardens surrounding an excellent

interpretive centre and nearly 4 km of trails through rainforest that offer insights into local flora and fauna.

DEPAZ DISTILLERY There are rum tours in the Caribbean and there are rum tours! This one is a must-do for three reasons. First, the views are spectacular – vistas of both sea and mountains. Second, it’s self-guided so you can go at your own speed. Finally, rhum agricole is unique to the French Caribbean islands (think hard to get) and you get to taste some at the end of your tour.

Shop LA GALLERIA

POINTE DU BOUT

Though Rue Victor Hugo is the chief shopping destination in Fort-de-France (a must-do for fashion and art), Galleria Mall is one of the biggest malls in the Caribbean, with 140 shops and boutiques. Catch up on Paris fashion, accessorize, titillate the senses with that perfect perfume, then do lunch.

Located in one of the more popular resort areas, shops along rue ChaCha include men’s and women’s fashion. Nearby Village Creole – replete with pastel-painted gingerbread trim and wroughtiron balconies – has restaurants, more than 20 different shops (mostly clothing and accessories) and live entertainment nightly.

behold Steps from Pointe Du Bout beach and nestled within the heart of lush tropical gardens sits Hotel La Pagerie, as timeless and elegant as the Island of Martinique itself.

Martinique itself.

Equipped with a fully renovated spa that offers the gamut of rejuvenating treatments – from Caribbean themed sugar cane scrubs to traditional Indian Abhyanga warm oil massages – and an authentic creole restaurant, La Pagerie has its visitors so spellbound by its offerings it’s a wonder they ever venture off the grounds. the grounds.

Hôtel La Pagerie | La Pointe du Bout | 97229 Trois Ilets | Martinique, French West Indies Email: resa@hotel-lapagerie.com | Tel: +596 596 660 530 |

Beyond PEOPLE & PLACES

#WISHTOBEHERE:

THE JEWEL OF THE DANUBE

As darkness descends on Budapest, the city’s shimmering lights come alive, dancing across the Danube River. This gem of a city’s breathtaking architecture includes the stately 19th-century parliament building, keeping watch over Budapest.

When night falls and the parliament is illuminated, its soaring dome and neo-gothic towers take on a dazzling gold radiance that won’t soon fade from your mind’s eye. But your mind is not playing tricks on you. It really is gold: 40 kg of the shiny stuff, along with 500,000 precious stones went into the construction of its 691 rooms and 20 km of corridors.

Designed by Hungarian architect Imre Steindl, it was inspired in part by the Palace of Westminster and was inaugurated in 1896 to celebrate the country’s 1000th anniversary. There’s a magic quality to it, basking in its own reflection at the water’s edge. You can’t help but fall under this city’s spell. — Lauren Wildgoose Photo by Tishan Baldeo

gs ba r you “ Pack visit us. and comeentôt! ” À bi - Coralie

ALL INCLUSIVE CLUB MED BUCCANEER’S CREEK FROM

$

2 399*

Air-included 7-night for a departure from Montreal on March 17, 2016.

1-800-CLUB MED (258-2633)

*Canada only. Sample price is per adult, based on a 7-night stay on double occupancy in a Club category room at Club Med Buccaneer’s Creek, Martinique for a departure on March 17, 2016 from Montreal, round-trip flights with Air Transat and transfers to/from the resort included. This offer is valid for new individual bookings only for select travel date March 17, 2016. Subject to capacity control and may increase at any time. Prices include the GST and PST Club Med is not responsible for errors or omissions. Club Med Membership fees of $60 per adult and $30 per child are additional. Void where prohibited or restricted by law. For travel services booked with a Québec Travel Consultant, prices exclude the clients’ contribution to the Indemnity Fund, which amounts to $1 per $1,000 of travel services purchased. Québec permit.

GUERLAIN BOUTIQUE & INSTITUTE 110 Bloor Street West, Toronto 416.929.6114