INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS
Barbados ih ne State of
10
Mind
Suns
RSVP
TRIPS OF A
LIFETIME
PLUS Nepal, Thailand, Wyoming, Belize, Colombia
2 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
SWIM WITH THE LOCALS,
ON POINTS.
ANY AIRLINE, ANY FLIGHT, ANY TIME. AVIONERS CAN DO THAT. ®
Be sure to visit Carlisle Bay, Barbados where you can swim with and feed sea turtles! Start Avioning today with 15,000 Welcome points.† Visit rbc.com/avion or call 1 800 769-2511 to apply.
Subject to availability. Some restrictions may apply. For complete terms, visit rbc.com/travelredemption. † To receive the 15,000 bonus RBC Rewards points, your application form must be approved by us. Upon enrolment, 15,000 bonus RBC Rewards points will appear on your first monthly statement. This offer may not be combined or used in conjunction with any other offer. Royal Bank of Canada reserves the right to withdraw this offer at any time, even after acceptance by you. ®/™ Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC and Royal Bank are registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. ‡ All other trademarks are the property of their respective owner(s). BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 3
Cycling South Africa Tour
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CONTENTS
Trips of a Lifetime #4 2016
Lagoon Water Villa at The Six Senses Laamu Hotel, the Maldives.
Features 48 Barbados RSVP On the 50th anniversary of its independence from Britain, Barbados gears up to celebrate in the most luxe way. Your presence may just be required. By Doug Wallace
56 Wild, Wonderful, Wyoming Going where the deer and the antelope play, Nicola Blazier takes a nostalgic pause and relives a moment from her youth.
62 Eagle, Play, Ah Anita Draycott, takes in the fun and games and golf of Thailand. And, after the games, spa traditions reboot the body for another day of play.
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Flying High Lufthansa Style The airline’s newest offering, Lufthansa’s Premium Economy Class, is an enticing choice for
When you carry the most passengers of any other airline in Europe, you can’t help but be in tune to the many facets of customer experience in today’s crowded and competitive first-class market. Lufthansa is constantly upgrading and innovating, its researchers extensively canvassing passengers to pinpoint their changing tastes. “We are listening to our customers, listening for what they want,” says Hans DeHaan, Lufthansa’s Director for Canada. Overseeing 130 long-haul aircraft that fly more than 15 million passengers a year to 1,300 worldwide destinations while keeping a close ear to passenger feedback has allowed Lufthansa to establish new initiatives that translate passengers into loyal guests.
“The consistency of our product is extremely important.”
Book your flight now at lufthansa.com
leisure and business travellers seeking a service upgrade without sacrificing affordability. Located between Economy and Business Classes, Premium Economy passengers enjoy 50 percent more seat room while being permitted a second piece of luggage up to 22 kg. Height-adjustable footrests, extra storage, electrical sockets, travel amenity kits and meals served on porcelain tableware round out this new level of personalized, tailored care now offered on all flights departing Canadian Lufthansa gateways (YYZ, YVR, YUL).
The Lufthansa on-board experience is uncluttered, thoughtful, efficient and comfortable. The humidifiers in Lufthansa A-380 Airbuses are good news not only for the passenger’s comfort, but also for their sense of taste, which diminishes considerably at 30,000 feet. Your perception of savoury and sweet is also affected at this altitude – all due in part to the humidity and low air pressure. This is one of the reasons why some airline chefs choose umamicentred flavours for in-flight menus – with things like tomatoes, mushrooms, spinach and shellfish – as the on-board climate may actually enhance this particular taste category. Humidity aside, Lufthansa is also on the forefront of everything from seat engineering to the little bonuses that brighten up your flight, forever evolving to stay in step with the not just today’s trends, but the future of travel.
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D E P A R T M E N T S
World
Your
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ON OUR RADAR + TRENDS
Eat your way through Colorado; meet our Globetrotter Daniel Fraser, our editors’ picks of the best beauty and fashion essentials for the fall.
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DISCOVERIES + DESIGN
A godfather of Hollywood embraces the culture and natural beauty of Belize; While in search for clarity our writer Vawn Himmelsbach climbs the highest mountains the Himalayas; Explore Medellin - Colombia’s capital of cool design and innovation.
CONTENTS Trips of a Lifetime #4 2016
Here&Now
37
Upgrades Travel the world on plane, bicycle, catamaran and camel. Our definite list of 10 can’t miss destinations.
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46 With the help of our travel expert Michael Smith find out what to do when your bags take their own vacation.
Guide The
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Insider Toronto: how to take care business like a local.
70
Worth Travelling For The Aenaon Villas capture the mystical spirit of the once charred island of Santorini using a natural tone against the unmistakable blues of the Aegean.
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Publisher’s Note UP NEXT: Cartagena de Indias, the second oldest city in Colombia, is the undisputed queen of the Caribbean coast. A city so pregnant with the magical realism that inspired one of the most imaginative writers of the modern era, Gabriel García Márquez. Once known as a major trading port, especially for precious metals, it’s now Latin America’s hippest global destination with boutique hotels, fusion-forward restaurants and new design and fashion labels. Tourists are descending on its galleries, strolling idly down its byways, revelling with locals in public plazas. Look for more on Cartagena in our upcoming Winter Escapes issue.
Why we will never stop having the trip of a lifetime. “It was the trip of a lifetime.”
It’s a destination I’ve dreamed about since I was a child, first seeing it in the black and white pages of my family’s worn out edition of Encyclopedia Britannica. And in this moment, it feels like the trip of a lifetime – the culmination of a lifetime of dreaming bigger and bigger.
How many times have we heard this proclamation from a friend or a travel
Throughout the pages of this issue, we offer you a springboard
brochure, a shop-worn phrase, ubiquitous to the point of meaningless?
for experiences and destinations that will inspire you, spanning
Yet it persists, and it means something important and personal to everyone who
the globe from under the sea to the tops of mountains.
has ever uttered it. It might even mean something different every time we say it.
This fall, I am heading to New Zealand on a whale watching
The “trip of a lifetime” is in your 20s, getting your first taste of the world beyond
excursion with my husband, once again satisfying the curious
your hometown. It’s in your 40s, when you have a little more money to spend
boy I once was, what feels like a lifetime ago.
and are bringing along your longtime partner. And it’s in your golden years, when you think you’ve seen it all, but are somehow awed again by the splendor of this
Safe Travels
glorious planet. I write this letter just after watching one of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever seen, over the majestic Mayan ruins of Tikal, Guatemala, the ancient pyramids peeking out from their jungle canopy.
Marlon J. Moreno, Publisher
PROUD PARTNERS OF BOLD MAGAZINE 10 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
8348RBC_Bold_Barbados_FeatureStrip_FA.indd 1
2016-08-31 12:51 PM
CONTRIBUTORS
Inspired by this month’s features, we asked our contributors for their ultimate Trip of a Lifetime.
Doug Wallace
47
Writer
Barbados RSVP Doug Wallace is an award-winning writer, editor, content curator and travel authority. Doug’s ultimate Trip of a lifetime would be to take six months and visit all the places on his Top 10 list in one continuous stream – Italy, Austria, Croatia, Slovenia, Norway, Morocco, Thailand, Cambodia.
Nicola Blazier
Writer
Wild, Wonderful, Wyoming Nicola Blazier is with a Toronto-based communications specialist and dreams of the cowboy culture and life in the saddle. Nicola’s ultimate trip would be either at a ranch in Wyoming or sipping spritzers overlooking the volcano in Santorini.
56 Anita Draycott
62
Writer
Eagle, Play, Ah Anita Draycott has been a Toronto-based journalist, editor and photographer for more than 25 years. A self-confessed golf addict, she has chased dimpled white balls over six continents. For Anita, her ultimate Trip of a Lifetime must include a golf course.
INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS
MARLON MORENO Publisher + Editorial Director MAGDA DE LA TORRE America’s Editor CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Liam Wilkinson • David Locke • Muriel Paras • Michael Smith • Vawn Himmelsbach Meagan Drillinger • Andrew Brudz • Gustavo Reid ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN Laura García CARLOS BOLIVAR Photography • RAHUL NAIR Web Developer PUBLIC RELATIONS AGENCY Jesson + Company ⁄ jessonco.com / info@jessonco.com 77 Bloor St. West, Suite 1200 Toronto, ON. M5S 1M2 ADVERTISING For Advertising, Promotion, Reprints and Sponsorships inquiries marketing@boldmagazine.ca / phone: 1.416.323.7828 extension 25
Artwork inside the citizenM Hotel, Tower of London. Photo by Richard Powers
12 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
CORRESPONDENCE The Hudson Bay Centre / 20 Bloor St. East P.O. Box 75075 / Toronto, ON. M4W 3T3 BOLD® is published bimonthly by Pulso Media Group Inc. Opinions express in BOLD are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers. BOLD does not assume liability for content. www.boldmagazine.ca MEDIA SPONSORSHIPS marketing@boldmagazine.ca
A World of Possibilities
PROMOTION
Take Me There
For Those Who Prefer to Explore Barbados is a great place for travellers. Famous for beaches and resorts there are may reasons to vacation in this friendly island nation. But Barbados is more than just that. Steeped in colonial history it’s also home to a wide range of cultural attractions. You can visit Codrington College, one of the oldest education institutes in the Americas. Or take in the beauty of nature at Harrison’s Cave. You can even party on a pirate ship! This is the Barbados experience that true travellers crave. You see, there are two ways to explore a new destination. First you have tourists; those who are happy to stick to the travel guide itinerary and to take photos of famous and familiar landmarks. But then you have travellers. These are the people who like to wander off the beaten path. They might go down an alleyway just to see where they end up. Travellers eat at the local independent café. They find a city’s third-most popular art gallery and buy a unique piece to display in their home. And sometimes they sit peacefully on a park bench just to watch the locals go about their day.
According to Andrea Metrick, Senior Director of Retail Cards at RBC, “We have another word for these travellers. We call them Avioners®.” “In the same way that these travellers aren’t limited by the tourist guide, Avioners don’t accept limitations on their travel plans and they would never carry a travel rewards card that would place such limitations,” he says. In fact, with an RBC Avion® credit card you just don’t have to face those kinds of restrictions. You can book any flight, with any airline, at any time. And with Payback with Points you can redeem your RBC Rewards® points toward anything and everything you purchase with your Avion card. Simply use your points to make a payment directly toward your credit card balance. But more importantly, you can redeem points on everything you purchase for your trip. So not only can you do things like book flights, hotel rooms, and car rentals; you can also take in a cricket match or sip on some local Barbadian rum – all ON POINTS! Avioners can explore and experience any new destination. So, ask yourself: are you a tourist or are you an Avioner?
Explore the world, ON POINTS Easy to understand travel rewards. No seat restrictions. If there’s a seat available, you fly – even during peak seasons. Plus you can also use your points to cover airline fees and taxes.
Earning points is simple and easy. You can feel confident knowing that you’ll earn RBC Rewards® points every time you make a purchase on your credit card.
Use your points toward all your purchases. With Payback with Points, you can redeem your RBC Rewards points toward anything and everything you purchase using your Avion® credit card. Simply use your points to make a payment directly toward your credit card balance.
AVIONERS CAN DO THAT ®
To learn more visit rbc.com/avion All rewards are subject to availability and are subject to change without notice. Some restrictions may apply. For complete terms, visit rbcrewards.com/terms. ®/™ Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC and Royal Bank are registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. ‡ All other trademarks are the property of their respective owner(s).
ON OUR RADAR + TRENDS
A mixologist preparing cocktails inside stylish Cooper Lounge on the upper level of the gorgeously renovated Union Station, a Beaux-Arts style building with huge arched windows.
ELEVATED EATS Touring Colorado isn’t just about the skiing. Craft beers and innovative chefs have taken the state’s dining scene beyond the Denver Omelet. By DIANE SLAWYCH BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 15
Your
World
SPOTLIGHT
BOULDER DUSHANBE TEAHOUSE Like the Sink, the Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse is an attraction in its own right. More than 40 artisans in Tajikistan created this beauty, which was entirely built by hand in Dushanbe, the capital, and sent as a gift to their sister city, Boulder, where the structure, which had been disassembled for transport, was rebuilt. Between sips of Fujian white tea, with its naturally sweet finish, I admired the artistry around me – the Fountain of the Seven Beauties, the hand-painted and carved ceiling. Though tea is
IF THIS IS MILE-HIGH DINING, BRING IT ON. After a week-long road trip through 10 cities and towns in Colorado, which has the highest elevation of any state, we dined in no fewer than 24 restaurants, bistros and breweries, and – biggest surprise of all – nearly every meal was exceptional. Who knew? What enhanced the dining experiences even more, were the many unique features, and sometimes locations, of the restaurants themselves. We had dinner at the base of tumbling waterfalls in Colorado Springs; lunches in breweries in Fort Collins and Buena Vista; and in Denver found satisfying nosh in some unlikely places including a converted iron foundry, a bi-level shipping container, and a trendy new social hub – would you believe – Union Station!
the specialty (choose from 100 premium loose leaf teas), breakfast, lunch and dinner are also served and the menu offers the most eclectic international fare I’ve ever seen, including everything from Persian Orange Koresh to Lapsang Souchong Bulgogi. You’d think a place that tackles so many types of ethnic cuisines couldn’t possibly do them all well, but the food here typically garners “excellent” reviews from diners.
LOCAL TABLE TOURS
BOULDER For dinner, we let Megan Bucholz of Local Table Tours bring us to some of the new dining hotspots. At Wild Standard, where the interior is made of 95 per cent recycled materials, we sat by Great food with loads of atmosphere is
the light-filled front window, as bowls of clam chowder and plates
something U.S. President Barack Obama
of calamari, mussels and oysters arrived in quick succession. The
experienced first-hand in 2012 on a
chicken was a particular standout. Our guide ushered us out before
surprise visit to Boulder’s oldest restaurant,
we got too full to enjoy the embered beet tartare and cornmeal
The Sink, located on The Hill near the
encrusted Colorado trout at our next stop, Arcana. For dessert, we
University of Colorado.
walked over to Piece, Love & Chocolate, which doesn’t just sell fine
The funky, must-see eatery that specializes in burgers and pizza, is a visual stunner with graffiti and counter-culture artwork covering every inch of wall and ceiling. Obama left his signature on the wall too, and the Sinkza pizza he ordered - a classic with pepperoni, sausage, black olives, green peppers, and red onions - has since been renamed the POTUS (“President of the United States”) pie, in his honour. No word on whether he smothered honey on the big, floppy “ugly crusts” like the locals. Celebrities and film crews have passed through too, though the most famous employee was Robert Redford, who worked here as a janitor in 1955.
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local and imported chocolates, it celebrates them, judging by the interior’s festive décor!
BEER
During our travels through the north and central part of the state we became immersed in local beers – Colorado has no fewer than 230 craft breweries. I liked the Shot Down, a chocolate stout I tried at the Fort Collins Brewery, and the popular Fat Tire beer I sampled on an excellent tour of the New Belgium Brewing Company. The cyclist in me liked the name as much as the taste of this malt-heavy amber ale. The words “health conscious and environmentally friendly”, “locally grown,” “organic” and “sustainable,” showed up on a lot of menus. Good vegetarian dishes and gluten-free items were common, as was the nutrient rich grain quinoa, even in small town
DENVER
eateries in Buena Vista and Salida. Many restaurants where we dined were committed to environmentally friendly practices that included composting, wind power, eco-friendly packaging and recycling and zero waste. In Denver, Bamboo Sushi claims to be the “world’s first certified sustainable sushi restaurant,” while Snooze, my new favourite breakfast spot, which is known for a creative twist on classics, has received several accolades for its environmental initiatives.
Seventy miles north, Denver’s trendy dining spots are nothing if not eclectic, which is what you’d expect for a capital city. Tour the home of the “unsinkable” Molly Brown and see the Daniel Libeskind addition to the Denver Art Museum, but don’t miss out on the innovative culinary scene. Have lunch at Avanti, a food hall with several ethnic eateries (Japanese udon, Spanish paella, Venezuelan arepas – stuffed corn-based flat bread – and more) where chefs cook in shipping container kitchens on two floors. Or check out The Source, another unique space that is off-the-beaten-track. Located in a former 1880s iron foundry in the River North District, this collective of food artisans and retailers also has bars and two restaurants.
DINING IN THE WILDS
We ordered marinated fish and griddled tacos at a Mexican cantina called Comida after sipping cocktails at RiNo Yacht Club, a bar inspired by social drinking culture from around the world. Downtown, another good bet for cocktails is the stylish Cooper Lounge on the upper level of the gorgeously renovated Union Station, a Beaux-Arts style building with huge
Fine cuisine with atmospheric surroundings remains the focus at places such as Restaurant 1858 in Colorado Springs. It’s situated at the base of the reopened Broadmoor Seven Falls – the only Colorado waterfall on the National Geographic’s list of international wonders. Named for the year the Colorado gold rush began, this upscale restaurant with a rustic ambience serves local cuisine (trout is popular) inspired by immigrants who traveled west to seek their fortunes.
arched windows. Nearby Larimer Square, on the oldest street in the city, immortalized by Jack Kerouac, is beautiful at night when it’s lit up with tiny white lights. We had dinner here at TAG restaurant, which marries Pan-Asian with local ingredients to magical effect. While eating our way through the mountain state, I often wondered how Coloradans keep so trim with all this good food. I used to attribute it to all that hiking and cycling. Then I learned of a study in the journal Obesity that found sedentary men ate 730 fewer calories when at an elevation of 8,700 feet. The message was clear. Don’t worry about gaining weight in Colorado, a state with many regions that are more than 8,000 feet above sea level. Eat to your heart’s content! It’s okay to indulge.
EAT TO YOUR HEART’S CONTENT! IT’S OKAY TO INDULGE.
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 17
Your
World
GLOBETROTTER
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DANIEL FRASER IS ALL THAI’D UP
The adopted son of Thailand returns to Canada with plenty to smile about. Eleven years ago, Daniel Fraser left his native Canada and moved
Where have you just come back from? The deep south of
to Thailand. But this wasn’t the typical expat-heads-to-South-East-
Thailand, Pattani Province, an undiscovered treasure and easy-to-
Asia story. And nothing about Fraser’s life has been typical since.
get-to spot, with a fascinating mix of Malay, Thai, Chinese, Buddhist,
His arrival in Bangkok came at the personal request of the Thai
Muslim, Portuguese and other European influences.
Royal family. They invited him to teach at the Chitralada Palace under
Where have you felt happiest? The peaceful villages along
the direction of Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn, the second daugh-
the Mekong River in eastern Thailand. Slow, picturesque, locked in
ter of King Bhumibol Adulyadej.
time, refreshing.
A decade later, Fraser is a bona fide Thai celebrity. He’s appeared in print and television ads across Asia, starred in feature
What area lived up to its hype? The Dolomites in Italy! What is your favourite destination? Northern Thailand, an
films, and became an ambassador for the Tourism Authority of
adventure playground with amazing biking, hiking, paddling, river-
Thailand. He hosted the popular TV show Long Krung on Thai PBS,
side villages, rolling hills, great food and crisp mountain air.
and since February 2016, has hosted Long Ruk Yim, a show exploring Thailand’s hidden gems. He was in Toronto recently promoting his latest endeavour, a luxury tour company called Smiling Albino (an homage to the sacred
What is your favourite hotel? Wow, hard question! If choosing one I’d say Shinta Mani in Siem Reap, Cambodia. The way they make you feel, for such a reasonable price, is extraordinary. What’s your guilty pleasure while travelling? In every hotel
albino elephants belonging to the royal family.) It offers individually
I visit, I order a club sandwich. Sounds silly... but it tells you a lot
crafted adventures in Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar, and Nepal.
about the hotel!
BOLD caught up with Fraser on his visit home, to find out some
Confession time: what have you swiped from your hotel
of his favourite places around the world, dream trips, and what he
room? Soap! I’m addicted to it. Can’t stop. I stock up in each hotel
always steals from hotel rooms!
I visit. I have an enormous collection which takes up my counter. This is ridiculous. Must stop. What is your road most travelled? The amazing stretch of the Mekong River between the Golden Triangle and the Laos border at Chiang Khong. True cycling bliss! What is one of the most persistent misconceptions about Thailand? There are great multi-cultural experiences available here, not just the amazing food. Thailand is the size of France, but most people only visit the same two or three places. What responsibilities do we have as travellers? Finding ways to experience and preserve the best of an area, or a society without changing it. Always ask yourself: did our visit make it better than it was? What would be your “Trip of a Lifetime”? Motorcycling across Russia, in the summer, perhaps with some luxury glamping, fulfilling one of my dad’s dreams of the 1960s. Complete this sentence: I lost my heart in: Cuba in 1992! Amazing locals. Became instant friends with an entire country.
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 19
Your
World
THE ESSENTIALS
WHAT TO PACK FOR … LONDON
Heading for a quick jaunt to London? Here, all the essentials that will make you feel cozy and stylish this fall.
On Our List Located above Tower Hill, citizenM Tower of London, the Dutch chain’s third hotel in Britain alongside citizenM Bankside and citizenM Glasgow gives you a sweeping view of this beautiful city, including the Tower of London, The Gherkin, The Shard, Tower Bridge and, in the distance, Canary Wharf. Designed by the acclaimed Amsterdam-based creatives of Concrete, the building’s glass and limestone facade blends in with its surroundings. Walls are lined with trademark floor-to-ceiling bookshelves stocked with coffee-table books, sculptures and souvenirs that celebrate Britain (toy Morris Minors, miniature postboxes and vintage cricket bats) as well as large pieces of contemporary art by artists such as Julian Opie, Dominic Harris and Peter Lamb. Furniture from Vitra, citizenM’s long-term partner, is used throughout the hotel, showcasing classic pieces from designers such as Verner Panton, Charles & Ray Eames and Jean Prouvé. In the centre of the new hotel are the self check-in terminals, arranged in circles around small sapling trees, which allow a swift and easy check in and out in seconds. Oversized shelves let the guest enter the humorous world of citizenM. Filled with travel and art books and unique objects that reflect aspects of traditional British heritage, citizenM’s love for quirky details will delight guests looking for a smart fix of trademark Brit wit. citizenm.com/destinations/london/tower-of-london-hotel
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CLOCKWISE FROM THE LEFT Coach 1941 Patchwork Snake Handle Rogue Satchel $1,380; coach.com Cutler and Gross 1162 Dark Turtle sunglasses $612 cutlerandgross.com Lemlem Petal Nadia Scarf $195; lemlen.com J.Crew Coco tweed coat $368; jcrew.com Hunter Original Tour Rain Boots $165; ca.hunterboots.com Kendall & Kylie - Ayla 2 Over The Knee Boot $275; ts.townshoes.ca YVES SAINT LAURENT Black Opium Nuit Blanche Eau de Parfum $50 30ml; holtrenfrew.com Beautycounter Rejuvenating Eye Cream $69; beautycounter.com
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 21
THE BUZZ ON
SPECIAL FEATURE
There’s lots to love about Central America’s smallest country– especially its coffee. We explore the Coffee Route’s lush terrain, charming towns, fascinating history, and smiling people. Don’t let the name fool you. El Salvador’s Ruta de las Flores is all about coffee! Touring the region is a must for coffee lovers wanting to know more about where their morning staple comes from, and anyone who wants to experience nature on a grand scale, rural El Salvadorian life, and tasty food!
SOWING THE SEEDS What’s now known as El Salvador was first inhabited by the Pipils of the Nahuat people, and Mayans for hundreds of years prior to the 16th century. Their history leaves a permanent mark on the landscape in the form of the pyramids in San Andrés and Tazumal. But in the early 1500s, incoming Spanish conquerors took over most of Central and South America. The area was under Spanish rule and renamed El Salvador after Jesus Christ, “The Saviour.” It remained this way until the signing of the Act of Independence in Central America in 182. After briefly joining the Federal Republic of Central America later with other Central American nations, El Salvador became adamant about its sovereignty, going it alone after 1822. Around this time, the area began to cultivate coffee, which was becoming an increasingly popular delight around the globe. Just in time, too, as El Salvador’s main export, Indigo-dyed textiles, were becoming less popular due to new, synthetic (and cheaper) dyes becoming more readily available. By the mid-19th century, coffee was responsible for half of the country’s export revenue. And by the turn of the century, coffee was virtually its only export crop.
THE SHADE OF IT ALL Western El Salvador, with its rich, volcanic soil, mountainous landscape, and high rainfall, was an ideal location for cultivating coffee beans. The country became known for its distinct shade coffee plantations, with a grid of coffee plants surrounded by other trees, creating the shady canopy under which the beans could thrive. Aside from producing a unique bean, the crisscrossing lines of green foliage in the mountains create a striking visual element for those down on the ground.
EL SALVADOR SPECIAL FEATURE
In contrast to the complex, authoritative coffees from neighbouring Guatemala and Costa Rica, El Salvador’s beans tend to be gentler, less acidic, and soft – perhaps due to the more delicate conditions in which they’re grown.
TAKE “RUTA” Western El Salvador is coffee country, and nowhere more so than the seeming misnomer, Ruta de las Flores. The area is, in fact, named for the colourful bursts of flowers that adorn coffee plants each May. But don’t be fooled, it’s coffee that brings people here, namely to the five charming towns that make up the region – Nahuizalco, Salcoatitán, Juayúa, Apaneca, and Ataco – along a 35-kilometre stretch of mountainous landscape. Cobblestone streets, whitewashed colonial architecture, and impressive churches make up the charming backdrop. It’s hard to resist the country’s favourite snack food, the pupusa, a thick corn tortilla typically stuffed with cheese and beans, as well as chicken, chicharrón or shrimp. The decadent treat is also the only known cause of “pupusa belly,” afflicting many local men, much like “beer belly” in other parts of the world. There are also friendly locals, still perhaps unaccustomed to seeing foreign visitors, and plenty of places to sample the coffee! Chicken buses, colourfully painted school buses common across Central America, are an endlessly amusing mode of transportation from town to town. Juayúa is the largest town among the five. Its bustling plaza is alive with street vendors selling colourful textiles and juice-filled pineapples, children riding on the backs of horses, and a jam-packed strip of outdoor restaurants. But the main attraction in town is the Iglesia de Cristo Negro, an imposing, white church flanked by gently-swaying palm trees. A few minutes away, locals swim and play beneath the waterfalls of Los Chorros de la Calera. Less than 20 kilometres down the ruta is Ataco, a town known for the vibrant murals covering most of the walls of its buildings. Indigo dye workshops, handicrafts, and nice restaurants surround its centre square. Café La Casona provides a chic yet warm setting for a coffee, before hitting the streets again. Take the short hike up to the white-cross-adorned La Mirador de la Cruz for a view of the entire town, once a haven for artists looking to escape the dangers of the civil war. Apaneca provides a welcomed sense of tranquility after the comparative hustle & bustle of the other towns. The quiet town provides a perfect view of the mountaintop coffee plantations, while peaceful Laguna Verde, or Green Lagoon, adds to the town’s meditative atmosphere. And there’s some fun to be had with dune buggy rides and zip lining.
ONE LAST THING You can’t leave the region without visiting the stunning Lake Coatepeque. The crater lake is surrounded by lush, green mountains. Take a boat ride around the lake, go for a swim, and then enjoy some delicious seafood from the lakeside and mountainside restaurants that dot the perimeter. See locals fishing, relaxing on decks jutting into the water from vacation homes, and splashing around in the water.
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SPRING 2017
DISCOVERIES + DESIGN
A godfather of Hollywood embraces the culture and the natural world at his Belize retreat By MEAGAN DRILLINGER
Here&Now DESIGN
Previous page: River front cabañas. On this page: Spa treatment room. Next page: A private cabaña, with hand-woven thatched roof; the interior of an spacious bedroom with hand-woven bedspreads.
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A
rust-coloured road curves gently
delicacies, along with a wine list of Francis Ford Coppola wines.
through thick forest, sloping its
And just past the welcome desk, surrounded by screened-in
way up out of the lush, steamy
windows is Jaguar Bar, a hand-carved slate bar marked by
jungle surrounding San Ignacio
ceiling fans from the set of Apocalypse Now, framed photos of
Belize. The humidity softens
archaeological digs and handmade furnishings. In the true spirit of
slightly as the landscape gives
disconnecting, the lodge is the only place on property where wifi
way to pine and oak forests, rocky paths and mountain streams. This is Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve, a 107,000 acre
is accessible. Stepping out from the lodge gives way to stone steps that
forest that houses a secret, swanky hideaway – the Blancaneaux
trickle down the hillside and lead to the individual cabanas and
Lodge owned by none other than Francis Ford Coppola.
villas. These rise from the jungle on stilts and have soaring, hand-
Blancaneaux Lodge, one of two Francis Ford Coppola hotels
woven thatch ceilings. Furnishings for each villa were selected by
in Belize, is an earthy oasis amid a sea of protected forests.
Francis and Eleanor Coppola from Mexico and Guatemala. Bright
The Lodge sits on a hilltop overlooking a ravine, with cabanas
splashes of tropical colour offset the warm wood tones, with pops
and villas that dot the ridge down the hillside to Privassion
of culture from the hand-woven bedspreads, carved animals and
Creek. Coppola discovered Blancaneaux Lodge in 1981 while
masks. The spacious bathrooms do not skimp on style with tiled
searching for a jungle hideaway in the Maya mountains of Pine
Japanese baths and local herbal soaps.
Ridge. He came upon the abandoned lodge and converted it
At the bottom of the hillside on the banks of the creek sits
into a family retreat, before opening it to the public in 1993.
the open-air Waterfall Spa, accented with a hot pool heated by
Today the understatedly elegant resort is comprised of 20 rooms
hydro-electricity. Spa treatments use only locally sourced organic
that overlook the creek, which runs the property with tumbling
ingredients, and the one to try is the Thai massage. The spa staff
waterfalls that create refreshing swimming holes.
was professionally trained in the ancient techniques at the Wat
Arrival at the resort begins with a drive down a rocky road to
Pho Temple in Bangkok. The resort also has a swimming pool,
the entrance of the main lodge. The lodge seamlessly blends the
horse stables, an organic garden and a long list of excursions
rustic and remote vibe of the forest with refined elegance and
and activities that travellers can add to their stay. These include
charm. Designed by Mexican architect Manolo Mestre, in a joint
everything from mountain biking and hiking, to a full-day
effort with Coppola, the lodge and villas feature decor based
excursion to the Caracol Archaeological Reserve.
loosely on indigenous designs Coppola had seen in the Philippines
Francis Ford Coppola gained fame for his superlative cinematic
while filming Apocalypse Now. Wood floors and beamed ceilings
attention to detail and artistic eye, but he has seamlessly
set the base, with accents of mahogany furniture. Just off the
translated these skills into designing a one-of-a-kind sanctuary
main reception area, behind a roaring stone fireplace, is Montagna
truly fit for the red carpet.
Restaurant, the main dining area of the lodge. Here guests can
thefamilycoppolaresorts.com/en/blancaneaux-lodge
expect a menu of locally grown produce, and imported Italian BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 27
Here&Now THE TAKEAWAY
I
woke with a startle in the middle of the night to pitchblackness. My heart was pounding like an out-of-control jackhammer. I pushed my way out of my sleeping bag, gasping for oxygen, and then – slammed with a wall of -8 °C air – dove back in. In that moment, it occurred to me that I probably
shouldn’t have rented a sleeping bag. Why didn’t I spend the cash and buy
The
Mountain In search of clarity, one woman goes to the greatest heights. Words and photos by VAWN HIMMELSBACH
a proper down-filled bag before I left on this trip? Then other questions flooded my brain: What had I been thinking? Why on earth was I doing this? But I didn’t have to. I could turn back in the morning. I just had to make it through the night. The next time I awoke, it was to my alarm clock and the early morning light streaming into the teahouse, perched on the Himalayan mountain range. And, by the time I was settled around the yak-dung fire with the rest of my group – about a dozen Aussies and Kiwis – loading up on carbs and drinking Nescafé, it was clear I had no intention of turning back. Turns out I wasn’t the only one who had an altitude-fuelled panic attack in the middle of the night in Lobuche, at 4,900 metres above sea level – two of my trekking companions also had a rough night. We all had a good laugh about it before setting out that day in hopes of reaching our Holy Grail: Everest Base Camp. The trek to Base Camp involves a 45-minute flight from Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital, to the village of Lukla at 2,840 metres above sea level – the runway literally dropping off the edge of a mountain – followed by a two-week hike through the Himalayas. Base Camp, at 5,364 metres above sea level, marks the end of the trail for hikers, and the beginning of the climb for those attempting to climb Everest. It’s a challenging trek, one that requires both physical and mental stamina. While it doesn’t involve any mountaineering, there’s still no guarantee you’ll actually make it to Base Camp. Altitude sickness can affect anyone, no matter what your fitness level. And the weather is notoriously unpredictable; your fate lies with Mother Nature.
28 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
THAILAND Because there is only one trip of a lifetime. With it s breathtaking vistas, unforgettable jungle treks,splendid beaches, spectacular retreats, glimmering temples and world class cuisine, it is no wonder that the people of Thailand welcome their visitors with a serene sense of pride that is at once heartwarming and uplifting.
The true beauty of Thailand begins with its people. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 29
Here&Now THE TAKEAWAY
I
’ve never been one to obsess about ticking something off a proverbial bucket list, nor did I have life-long desire to see Everest. But at a time in my life when I faced a lot of career and relationship questions, I felt the need to get away – as in, the-other-side-of-theplanet far away. Not to run away, but to clear out the clutter in my brain, to give myself time and space to think. Or maybe to not think.
And an epic trek seemed like the logical thing to do. It’s entirely possible to do this trek on your own (and hire a Sherpa guide and
porter in Kathmandu). There are also group tours, ranging from moderately priced to those with a hefty price tag. You sleep in simple teahouses (there aren’t any Hiltons high up in the Himalayas) and eat simple meals (I had a lot of dal bhat and the occasional $5 Snickers bar that had long passed its expiration date). After a few days, there are no more hot showers (or showers, period). And in many cases, the toilets consist of a hole in the ground – albeit, with the prettiest scenery you’ll ever see surrounding a hole in the ground. It’s not everyone’s idea of a good time. But there’s a reason why this part of the world attracts so many hikers and climbers. The Himalayas are breathtaking; they’re awe-inspiring. The route to Base Camp, surrounded by the world’s highest snow-capped peaks, is actually referred to as ‘the steps to Heaven’ – and it’s an accurate description. But it’s more than that. You’re pushing yourself to your limits, challenging yourself to do something you’re not sure you can do. Hiking at high altitude, with steep ascents and descents, is one hell of a cardio workout. The altitude also affects your body and brain. I lost my appetite (when I needed it most) and felt overemotional and giddy – I was either in tears or hysterically laughing. On the morning we set out for Base Camp, I was struggling to breathe and my legs felt heavy, like I was wearing ankle weights. Maybe that’s when I finally understood the concept of ‘being in the moment.’ Problems back home seemed oh-so trivial. In fact, I wasn’t thinking about them. I was literally taking life one step at a time. Gasping and wheezing, I did eventually make it to Base Camp. Standing there with my trekking companions, I felt a profound sense of accomplishment. We cheered and snapped photos and took sips of Everest Whisky. And then, not sure what else to do in this barren patch of snow, we turned back. I didn’t have an epiphany on that mountain. There was no miraculous revelation about my life’s purpose; there were no answers to my problems. But something else happened. Straggling behind the others, it was getting dark by the time I arrived back at the teahouse. As I approached, a Sherpa standing near the doorway pointed behind me. Turning to look, I saw the mountain range in shadows, with Mt. Everest peeking out from behind, lit brilliant pink by the setting sun. It lasted about 20 seconds. And then it disappeared into the shadows. You can’t plan for those moments. They just happen. And that, I suppose, is why we find ourselves on a mountain, with a hammering heart, in sub-zero temperatures, doing something we didn’t think we had the strength to do.
“Mother Nature took my breath away” 30 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
Because for 20 seconds, Mother Nature took my breath away – and that had nothing to do with oxygen deprivation.
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 31
SPECIAL FEATURE
PARADISE FOUND
There is still untouched nature on this blue planet. In Ecuador, discover a wealth of wonders
I
n the heart of the Amazon, about a three hours by canoe down the Napo River, lies a place unlike any other on Earth. Perched on a small ridge at the edge of the great Añangu jungle lake, you can find one of Ecuador’s precious gems, the Napo Wildlife Center Ecolodge. It is an ethereal place seemingly unchanged by time; the dense rainforest and dark waters having given up their secrets to
the precious few who call this place home. To the local communities, this place is Yasuní – sacred land. Here, there is an abundance of life like few places on Earth; one hectare contains more living organisms than the entire European Continent. Its treasures, the multiplicity of species living in the most biodiverse ecosystem on the planet, have long been protected by the steadfast stewards of this place, the Kichwa Añangu. While the world undergoes the greatest extinction since the annihilation of the dinosaurs, the Añangu jungle and its protectors have become one of the remaining beacons of hope. As dozens of species go extinct worldwide every day, this veritable hotspot of life becomes ever more precious and ever more sacred. To the Kichwa Añangu, Yasuní symbolizes the abundance of life. It speaks to a world that will never be fully discovered nor fully understood, a miracle of nature.
SPECIAL FEATURE
T
hose with the rare privilege of visiting this place will find themselves treated to some of the natural world’s greatest displays. After taking a short plane ride from Quito, guests arrive at the small town of El Coca. From there, they are silently guided along the Napo river where they can expect to see electric eels and stingrays
swimming alongside them. Looking to shore will reveal even more colourful displays. Jaguars, tapirs, peccaries and even anacondas have all been seen by visitors traversing the ancient winding paths through the forest. Indeed, this small protected tract of land is home to 60 percent of all new world wild cats. Before you realize it, the river slowly widens and opens on the beautiful serene waters of Añangu Lake – home to hundreds of freshwater fish species including piranhas, giant “pirarucú” lung fish, sting rays and peacock bass but also to giant otters and the endangered “charapa” turtle. Guest will first catch a glimpse of the lodge rising from the jungle’s edge on the opposite side of the lake. The jutting roofs of the 12 cabins and four suites rise above the canopy as the homes of the Kichwa have for centuries. Many will choose to simply relax in these beautifully appointed accommodations but there is no shortage of activities for those looking to absorb all this place has to offer. An early morning hike to a parrot clay lick will be rewarded with the colourful cacophony of 11 species of parrots, parakeets and macaws. Unforgettable views can be had from the canopy tower on the Napo. At 36m high, the tower allows guest to ascend through the different levels of the forest and emerge to a view previously reserved for the jungle’s cornucopia of bird species. This is a mecca for birders who can spot flocks of colourful tanagers, blue and yellow macaws and a variety of toucans that can be seen nowhere else. Those without an eye for feathered friends will still delight in the packs of spider monkeys who search the treetops for fruit. The evenings hold even rarer delights. Moonlight paddle boat rides offer excellent opportunities for safely getting closer to the caimans and watching night-monkeys and other wildlife on the margins of the lake. It is a unique experience under the many millions of stars all set against the back-music of hundreds of frogs, toads, insects, nocturnal birds and the splashes of fish and caimans as they feed and mate. One of the best ways to experience the Amazon is through the eyes of the locals and the Añangu community has made an effort to showcase how their ancestors lived, hunted and fished before gasoline and gunpowder. This information was passed down through the memory of the grandparents who inhabited the banks of the Napo River. It is knowledge freely shared with the community’s guests at the “Centro de Interpretación” or the Kury Muyo. There, visitors are invited to join women and mothers of the community who show them, through music, dancing, etc., their ancestral traditions and way of life. The hospitality of the local communities is such that even this deep in the Amazon jungle guests can still experience all it has to offer in style and comfort. The cabins all feature electricity, ventilation and plumbing and are beautifully furnished in keeping with the colours and materials of the rainforest. The restaurant serves a variety of dishes from the local specialties
For a close-up view of the Amazon wildlife in the Yasuní National Park, a sacred land considered one of the most diverse areas on the planet, book a premium tour or customized your own journey with the Napo Wildlife Center Call from Canada 1800 250 1992 or the US 1866 750 0830 www.napowildlifecenter.com
to something more familiar, all with the aim of providing the most relaxing and enjoyable experience. Far from the troubles of modern life, the Napo Wildlife Center Ecolodge offers solace and relaxation through the timeless customs, traditions and legends of the Kichwa. Book an unforgettable four-day trip through the majesty of the Amazon.
1CITY, 3WAYS:
IT
MEDELLIN,Colombia by S I M O N W I L L I S
DO
takes a mere first glimpse to fall in love with Medellín.
Fuelling the city’s fashion trends is Vía Primavera – two streets of boutiques run exclusively by Colombian fashion designers and enthusiasts. Every product, ranging from luxury dresses to hand-made jewellery, is manufactured 100 per cent sweat-shop free and uses local materials. On a sun-blushed afternoon, you’ll notice fashionistas sauntering the streets, interspersing shopping indulgences with artisanal coffee at Café Velvet cafevelvet.co or sumptuous hot chocolate and gourmet truffles at Me Late Chocolate melatechocolate.com
The descent from the airport winds through the Andean Mountains, past forests and street food vendors before the sprawling city
of terracotta-hued houses and towering buildings reveals itself. Once inside, indulge in a flourishing cuisine scene that fuses local classics – rich coffee, tropical fruit juices and meaty stews – with experimental dining of the highest order. During the day, the temperature (we know Medellín as the City of Eternal Spring) calls for skirts and shorts, so take time to wander around newly-renovated museums,
STAY
not forgetting Fernando Botero’s huge disproportionate statues, surrounding the 19th century-built Museo de Antioquia. Then, picnic under the palms and explore the sprawling neighbourhoods on the city’s emblematic metro and cable car system. When night falls, the parks and plazas throb with salsa, vallenato and reggaetón, luring paisas (as the locals are known) and travellers with a penchant for partying and dancing. 34 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
The glitzy, tree-laden Parque Lleras boasts its fair share of luxury hotels, and the Charlee is one of the finest. Easily noticed thanks to a huge multi-coloured monkey emblazoned on its side, the Charlee enchants guests. A wide selection of Balinese-designed rooms span from the glamourous to the downright exotic – find a private Japanese teppanyaki grill in one, Jacuzzis or balcony gardens in others. Come nightfall, party at the rooftop pool and cocktail lounge, Envy, which often welcomes live bands and international DJs. thecharlee.com/en/
Here&Now THE TAKEAWAY
EAT El Cielo’s reputation runs beyond Colombia. Medellín-born Juan Manuel Barrientos, named one of Latin America’s top 50 chefs, fronts a team that crafts the ever-evolving menu in a food lab, also located in Poblado, with each dish springing its own surprise. Whether sipping a love potion with a partner, munching on edible tableware or breathing in dry ice billowing from your plate, a visit to ‘the heaven’ is unforgettable. elcielorestaurant.com/es
DRINK Medellín’s compact mall Rio Sur, located on Poblado’s so-called ‘millionaire’s mile,’ attracts the city’s glitterati. Delaire Sky Lounge couples stunning panoramic city views with an extensive cocktail list and fabulous fare ranging from cheese boards to stone oven baked pizza – delaire.co. Later on, head to the intimate Attic Bar Loft that pulses with international dance and, eventually, hip-grinding reggaetón music. riosur.com.co
STAY Hotel Piedras Blancas provides the perfect base to explore the nearby ecological park, Parque Arvi. Located 45 minutes from Medellín, this luxury hotel sits among the towering vegetation and some of its pristine rooms overlook a tranquil lake. Campers sleep under the stars next to the seductive water and families enjoy the BBQ facilities before mountain biking, tree climbing or tackling the nearby high-altitude ziplining course. comfenalco.travel/HotelesComfenalco/HotelPiedrasBlancas.aspx BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 35
Here&Now THE TAKEAWAY
DO What better way to grasp Medellín’s unique beauty than by soaring above the olive-hued Aburrá Valley mountains. Paragliding Medellín offers 20-minute tandem flights (no experience required) with bilingual instructors. If you are keen to make a habit of sailing over the landscape, then join a course and prepare for a solo venture. Take-off is from San Felix, 35 minutes from the city centre. paraglidingmedellin.com
STAY Set in the affluent Poblado neighbourhood, Art Hotel Boutique is making waves thanks to its creative industrial design and dedication to local artists. As well as showing free movies every weekend in its diminutive in-house theatre, the swanky lobby doubles as a gallery, exhibiting work from Medellín’s burgeoning artist scene. Rooms contain exposed red brick walls and the central metal staircase leads up to the bar, restaurant, sauna and gym. en.arthotel.com.co
EAT Those looking for a voyage into adventurous gastronomy should head to El Rancherito. Medellín’s iconic restaurants serve high-quality, local fare including the mammoth, bandeja paisa. This dish, translated as paisa tray, was historically eaten by Antioquia’s mountain workers who relied on the extraordinary amount of calories from the pork belly, sausage, eggs, rice, fries, beans, avocado, minced beef, fruit juice and a sweet banana. Just try to finish one alone! elrancherito.com.co
DO Located between Poblado and downtown, Ciudad Del Río provides the playground for Medellín’s hipsters. Every evening, this rolling green park attracts dreadlocked musicians strumming acoustic guitars, gymnasts tip-toeing across slacklines and BMX riders spinning shapes on the floodlit skate park. Over the weekend, rugs and elegant picnic sets adorn the grass while rows of food trucks swirl out scents of sizzling arepas (cornbread), pulled pork sandwiches and juicy hamburgers. Open-air concerts and gastronomy festivals swell the crowd and Colombia soccer matches, beamed on a large screen, attract a sea of yellow supporters. The adjoining Museo de Arte Moderno de Medellín (Modern Art Museum) hosts social and political talks as well as weekly musical documentaries. For a cup of true artisanal Colombian coffee head to the stylish Cariñito Café and for high-quality cuisine and live jazz, Bonuar fits the bill.
PLAY While the world recognises Colombia as having a sublime soccer team and superstar cyclists, another sport holds tradition here. Tejo, a thudding, banging and often smoking activity, originates from native aborigines and encompasses most of the country. Estadio Polideportivo Sur, located in neighbouring Envigado, throbs on an evening with participants throwing metal stones at an angled clay board 22 metres away. Hit certain spots on the clay to gain points and a huge explosion from the embedded gunpowder. Oh, and consuming local cervezas (beer) is obligatory. 36 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
DANCE A visit to Medellín wouldn’t be the same without surrendering to the seductive salsa rhythms. DanceFree provides the ideal starting spot, whether you’re dipping your toe in or eager to showcase your moves. Every Thursday evening, locals and foreigners gather for free salsa and bachata lessons followed by a late-night danceathon. The more adventurous head downtown on Tuesday evenings to El Eslabón Prendido where a live band entertains a throbbing, sultry crowd that often bursts onto the street.
10 TRIPS
YOU MUST TAKE NOW The worldly editors of BOLD have teamed up with the travel gurus at EXODUS Travels for a list of 10 can’t-miss destinations. Spanning the globe on plane, bicycle, catamaran, and camel, our picks range from under the sea to the tops of mountains.
Ready, set, go!
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
DIVING IN Where:
Maldives How long:
MALDIVES
6 nights How much:
$3,015
Why you should go NOW: Picture “paradise” and you’re probably imagining something close to the Maldives. The 26 ring-shaped atolls that make up the island nation are surrounded crystal blue waters. Spend six nights floating atop the Indian Ocean on a Turkish Gulet, a traditional, two-masted wooden safari boat, amidst coral reefs, bioluminescent bays, and lagoons. Dive in to snorkel with Whale sharks, Manta rays, Bottlenose dolphins, and Olive Ridley sea turtles. At night, climb out on deck of the Felicity to watch millions of stars twinkle above you.
KENYAN SAFARI
Where:
Kenya’s Masaai Mara How long:
7 days
How much:
$5,965
Why you should go NOW: With its massive plains, distinctive acacia trees, and millions of migrating wildebeest, Kenya’s Masai Mara is the safari experience at its best. Tag along with award-winning travel photographer, Paul Goldstein, to 580 square miles of vast grasslands, home to the largest concentration of large mammals on the planet. It’s the ancient homeland of the Masaai tribe who still inhabit the area, along with zebras, Thomson’s gazelles and predators. With some coaching and advice from Goldstein, you can get some of the most incredible photos you will ever take. It’s a one-of-a-kind experience for both nature lovers and photography enthusiasts! 38 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
SWEDEN Where:
Artic Sweden
ON ICE
How long:
6 nights How much:
$3,605
Why you should go NOW: You’ve never stayed anywhere like Sweden’s famous Ice Hotel. In the small arctic town of Jukkasjärvi, it’s built each year using ice and snow. Mush Mush with a team of huskies, sledding through silent, forest trails. The area is also the perfect place to explore Lapland’s frozen lakes, deep woods, and to “oooh” and “aaah” at the sight of the spectacular aurora borealis, also known as the Northern Lights.
COLOMBIA
PICTURES Where:
Colombia How long:
9 nights How much:
$2,865
Why you should go NOW: Colombia is South America’s big comeback success when it comes to travel. The country once known more for its drugs and violence has shaken off its old reputation and earned a new distinction for its warm people, colonial style, and picturesque landscapes. Hike Andean peaks and coffee-covered hills, stroll the cosmopolitan streets of Bogota and the beaches of Tayrona National Park. Cartagena, on the coast of the Caribbean Sea, is as popular for its vibrant architecture as it is for its rousing nightlife, while the charming town of Villa de Leyva is home to the largest cobbled square in the country.
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 39
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
SICILIAN Where:
Sicily
KISS
How long:
7 nights How much:
$1,995
Why you should go NOW: Your taste buds would never forgive you for missing out on some of the best flavours of Italy! Come with an empty stomach to experience authentic Sicilian specialties from cannoli to arancini. Be sure to leave some room for the sumptuous wine tastings in Marsala and Etna. Then burn some calories while exploring the area’s unique heritage sites and Baroque cities and try your own hand at cooking in classes with local chefs in Trapani.
ADORE
ECUADOR
Where:
Galapagos Islands, Ecuador How long:
6 nights How much:
$3,342
Why you should go NOW: Visiting the Galapagos has never been this luxurious! Venture to Ecuador’s fabled islands, home to some of the planet’s most unusual and rare creatures, including fur seals, marine iguanas, giant tortoises, penguins, and the Magnificent frigatebird. Snorkel in the idyllic bays and coves surrounding the islands. And you’ll do it all while staying aboard the Queen Beatriz, a luxury class, modern catamaran, complete with lounge, dining room, Jacuzzi, and comfortable suites, for three days (plus a 3-night hotel stay).
POLISH IT OFF Where:
Poland
How long:
7 nights How much:
$1,345
Why you should go NOW: Forget the stereotypes of communist apartment complexes and bland food. Instead, discover the vibrant historic cities, beautiful countryside, and modern creativity. Over the course of a week, you can get a taste of rural life in the scenic Tatra mountains, visit the Castle of the Teutonic Order in Malbork (the largest castle in the world by surface area and a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and experience the profound, emotional power of Auschwitz. From the pastel buildings in the capital of Warsaw to the jazz bars of Krakow, Poland surprises at every turn.
AIR
JORDAN
Where:
5-star Jordan How long:
8 nights How much:
$2,175
Why you should go NOW: See some of the world’s most fascinating sites—in 5-star style. Float in the Dead Sea, a salt lake more than 400m below sea level, Earth’s lowest elevation on land, with therapeutic, mineral-rich mud. Spend two full days exploring the tombs and temples in the famous archeological site of Petra, known as the “Rose City.” Over 2000 years old, it was the former capital of the Nabatean Kingdom. Think camping can’t be luxurious? Wait until you see the 5-star campground in the dramatic desert wilderness of Wadi Rum.
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 41
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
GREAT Where:
Spain’s La Rioja wine region How long:
6 nights
SPAIN
How much:
$1,615
Why you should go NOW: Cycle through one of Spain’s most beautiful regions for an up close and personal encounter. There is no better way to see the famous winemaking region. Medieval architecture abounds in the provincial capital, Burgos, the journey’s launching point. From there, the Via Verde cycle route guides cyclists through the Demanda mountain range and rolling country sides, to the rich, fertile soil of the La Rioja valley. Stay fueled up on exquisite local tapas, pinchos, and, of course, plenty of exquisite wine samplings.
EATING IN
VIETNAM Where:
Vietnam How long:
9 nights How much:
$1,545
Why you should go NOW: There’s more to Vietnamese cuisine than the ubiquitous pho. Take a culinary journey through Vietnam to experience the complex, rich and aromatic flavours. In each new breathtaking setting, there is an equally impressive set of new tastes to savour. The towering limestone pillars of Halong Bay make for an eye-catching backdrop while sampling the freshly caught seafood by candlelight. Grab a fresh beer, or bia-hoi, and a seat on the sidewalk to enjoy the best of Hanoi’s street food. Take a short bike ride to the scenic Tra Que farming village outside Hanoi to see the vast herb gardens. Then try your hand at mastering regional dishes in a series of cooking classes. 42 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
Inspired by the way our editors travel, BOLD magazine presents a series of premium itineraries for extraordinary places around the globe, available for purchase through EXODUS Travels - offering cultural, hiking, wildlife and cycling tours to 100 + countries worldwide.
• CALL 1-800-267-3347 • VISIT WWW.EXODUSTRAVELS.COM
It’s not fun being without your belongings , but dealing with the airline can be infuriatin g. If you find yourself empty handed at the carousel , here ’s what you need to know to get you reunited with your belongings and back to enjoying your trip .
Stay put: I know it ’s tempting to want to get to th e hotel and deal with it later after a long flight . The best thing to do , howeve r, is go straight to an airline agent and gets the paper trail going. Get a trackin g number and the right contacts .
2 3 4 5
Ask and negotiate: Know where you stand when it comes to expenses. Will you be reimbursed if you need to buy clothing? If so, the full-price or only some of the cost? Will the airline pay for delivery of the bag? Can you get a refund for the checked bag fee? All good questions you should ask before getting a nasty surprise.
Check-in: Make sure you’re checking in with the airline to make sure they are on top of it. Have that tracking number from earlier handy.
Luggage that wants to be found ‘Smart’ luggage is the biggest trend in travel gear at the moment. From bags that can be used to charge your devices to carry-ons that you can drive you to your gate (we’re not kidding, google ‘Modobag’). But one big selling point for a lot of bags is tracking devices. Here is luggage that won’t get away from you so easily:
Samsonite GeoTrakr™ 29” Expandable Spinner Samsonite partnered with tracking device LugLoc® to create their GeoTrakr range. The bag uses GSMGPRS Technology that can track the location of your bag directly back to an app on your smartphone. It
Become a bookkeeper: If you need to buy clothes or rent gear, make sure you keep the receipts. Don’t go spending too much though; the airline might not pay the full value.
is FAA, TSA and FCC compliant and boasts a 15-day battery life. Its weight comes in at 12.5 lbs with dimensions of 29.0” x 20.5” x 11.0”. samsonite.ca
It’s gone!: It’s rare, but sometimes the bag just can’t be found. This is where you will find airlines have limits to their generosity. For instance, Air Canada has a limit of $1,500 CAD per passenger if you flew within Canada. The amount can go higher if you declare it in advance and additional charges are paid – like equipment aiircanada.com/en/travelinfo/airport/baggage/ delayed.html
Bluesmart One The original smart suitcase comes Equipped with 3G Cellular Data and GPS to help track it down. It also has USB ports to help you charge your phone and tablet on the go. It’s TSA-approved lock, FAA-compliant and weighs in at just 9.4 lbs with dimensions of 22” x 14” x 9”. bluesmart.com
Trunkster
CHEAT SHEET
This carry-on has a unique zipperless design and boasts USB ports, charging cable and a built-in scale.
Here are some handy tips to avoid any future headaches: Keep the sticker! That little sticker the agent usually puts on the back of your ticket – keep it! Better yet, take a photo of it. What are you packing? Catalogue the items in your bag and take a photo. If you’re feeling lazy, at least take the photo.
The tracker is an optional extra on this model that weighs 10.3 lbs with dimensions of 22” x 14” x 9”. So, if you often come home with more than you left with, and tend to check on the return leg, this bag is a good option. trunkster.co
Keep clicking. While you have your phone out, also take a photo of the bag. This will help when trying to explain what it looks like. Saying it’s black won’t help. Leave a clue. Put a copy of your flight itinerary in your bag. It might be the message in the bottle for your lost luggage. Tag it. Do you have a luggage tag? Is it up to date? Near and dear. No valuables in your checked luggage. If you can’t afford to lose it, then it goes with you on the plane. If you need to check it, you might want to double check your insurance or talk to the airline about declaring it for an extra fee.
Atlantic Unite 2 This luggage has innovation starting with this patent pending Link2Go allows you to connect luggage back to back with Velcro straps to roll two or more pieces with just one hand and a integrated USB port allows you to charge your electronic devices wherever you are. Features 8-wheel spinners rotate 360°. Dimension: 21 x 14.75 x 9” 6.9 lbs. holiday.ca BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 45
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RBC AVION PRESENTS: BARBADOS ®
8348RBC_Bold_Barbados_EditorStrip_FA.indd 1
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The Marina in all its glory at the Port Ferdinand Luxury Resort and Residences.
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RSVP On the 50th anniversary of its independence from Britain, Barbados gears up to celebrate in the most luxe way. Your presence may just be required By DOUG WALLACE BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 49
W hen your villa has a private
Happily, however, the food culture doesn’t borrow too much from the Brits. No Heinz salad cream, brown sauce or things baked in a pie here – this part of my week of indulgence was full-on island style. Quite simply, the food in Barbados is incredible, right from the
elevator to the
high-end restaurants to the food trucks on the street corners. Even Chefette, the island’s fast-food chicken chain, is something to write home about. Parking-lot food stands and main-street takeout counters are crowded with locals and tourists waiting patiently for
beach, nicknamed the Bikini Lift,
their turn to order. And for good reason: They harbour some of the most delicious home cooking you will ever taste. The Oistins fish fry is a Friday-night highlight, with dozens of open market stalls sizzling with goodness in the island’s south end. For the food festival, the outdoor stage here was ablaze the night of my visit with cooking demos from international and local chefs, including cool culinary star Marcus Samuelsson and top Barbados
you know you’re in for a good week.
S
uch was the case when I checked into Saint Peter’s Bay Luxury Resort & Residences on the sun-kissed northwest coast of Barbados. This was home base while I ate my way around this sublime Caribbean nation, devouring everything in sight during the Barbados Food & Rum Festival, the pinnacle food event in the Caribbean. Thankfully, I brought along my hollow leg.
Canadians get along well here, as I seemed to run into quite a
few. In fact, Canada accounts for almost one-quarter of the island’s tourism business. This must have something to do with the British connection; we can relate to other colonials in a way that the Americans can’t. Couple that with a low crime rate and public access to 100 per cent of the beaches, and you’ve got a true paradise. And not only are Bajans very much on top of what makes their tourism tick, they are also quite possibly the nicest people on the planet. Despite celebrating 50 years of independence from Britain this November 30, Barbados is still heavily influenced by its former governors, evident in its buttoned-down vibe – polo pitches, linen suits, drinks trollies, you get the picture.
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chef Duayne Holligan.
A boat in Bathsheba beach.
From left to right: a perfectly prepared seared tuna salad; the Marina view from the Harbourside Villas at Port Ferdinand Luxury Resort.
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T
oronto’s Craig Harding was the guest chef on my night at The Cliff Beach Club, a dramatic outdoor retreat with tiers of tables cascading down to the torch-lit seaside. I can still taste the barracuda crudo with mango, pink peppercorn and citrus sauce, and the sweet potato and lamb agnolotti; a fine marriage of Italian and Bajan flavours. Canadians love the fact that this restaurant’s
top dessert is The Flaming Snowball: a strawberry and ice cream concoction covered first in meringue and then Grand Marnier. Cin Cin by the Sea owner Larry Rogers was the perfect host during a stop at his top Prospect-region restaurant, also beautifully situated on the ocean with a spectacular view. The comfortable lounge is a design addict’s dream, perfect for a pre-dinner drinks, even if you’re dining elsewhere. Rogers opened the new Primo Bar & Bistro in the St. Lawrence Gap area last year to rave reviews. Propping up all the incredible food in Barbados with smart rum cocktails is the order of the day – Barbados is by all accounts the birthplace of rum, after all. Mega-distiller Mount Gay dates back to 1703, when it was discovered that the molasses they had been discarding after processing the sugar cane fermented quite nicely. Traditional rum “shops,” roadside one-room bars where people gather to watch cricket and play dominos, are scattered throughout Barbados. Don’t be afraid to belly up for a rum punch or a Banks beer. Later in the week, I took advantage of my resort’s house boat and meandered up the coast to the Port Ferdinand Luxury Resort and Residences, a new 120-slip marina for the international yachting crowd surrounded by 82 elegantly designed homes. I wasn’t at all surprised to hear that Sophie, Countess of Wessex, had dropped in a week or two before my visit. With a tagline of “The Life That You Deserve,” the marina is one of the island’s most extravagant showpieces, a pampering playground complete with a restaurant and pool in the middle of the main pier, plus The Sandbox Tree Spa. Here, holistic and ayurvedic treatment methods are underscored with luxurious organic body products. During the daytime in Barbados, when you’re not at the pool, your itinerary needs to focus on the waterfront; hitting the beaches and the reefs is a no-brainer. The west and south coasts offer one stretch of finely ground coral sand after another – take your pick. Then, take a catamaran cruise, go kayaking or paddle boarding, or just sit on a lounger and enjoy the million different shades of blue. There are also dozens of dive sites to sink your mask into, with Barbados Blue at Needham’s Point Pebbles Beach being the dive shop of choice – an excellent launching point to shipwrecks in Carlisle Bay.
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Aerial view of the Saint Peters Bay Luxury Resort.
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A couple paddling at the tranquil Bathsheba beach.
T
he easy going east side of Barbados is where
teams in a season that runs from January through May. Royal
locals go to relax on the weekend – or surf.
connections abound here as well, as Prince Charles and Prince
A day trip to the rugged Atlantic coastline of
Harry have both played polo in Barbados many times.
Bathsheba will reveal stunning views, plus
I wound up my week at a beach party at the Hilton Barbados
a few hints of the island’s colonial past,
on Needham’s Point, dancing with men in stilts, lounging by the
particularly if you venture into the Atlantis
shore and cramming in the barbecue fare – beef brisket, pork loin,
Hotel, which dates back to the 1880s. Make
savoury shrimp; all so delicious. San Francisco celebrity chef Chris
a pit stop on the patio before taking a hike
Cosentino arrived on the scene via Seadoo to blaring James Bond
along the old railway tracks to watch the surfers at the Soup Bowl,
theme music, racing in to do a summer salad demo for a pumped-
a world-famous reef break.
up crowd. After, Rapper Peter Ram helped keep the afternoon’s
And when the beach gets boring? You head to the sports pitch,
energy levels high.
of course. Cricket isn’t the only game in town, either: At Holder’s
Back at the Saint Peter’s Bay pool for a final dip, squeezing
Polo Field, unending glass of Champagne in-hand, I cheered on the
every last second out of the incredible rum punch in my now-
ponies in grand style. The popularity of polo in Barbados reaches
swollen hand, I wondered if I could turn my Barbados visit into an
back to colonial times, the first match being played in 1884. The
annual event. I’m sure my hollow leg could handle it.
Polo Club regulates four playing fields, welcoming international
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Bajans are very much on top of what makes their tourism tick, they are also quite possibly the nicest people on the planet
WORTH TRAVELING FOR This year’s Caribbean Food & Rum Festival is November 17 to 20. Other signature annual events in the run up to Independence Day include the Barbados Open Water Festival on November 2 to 6, and the Run Barbados Marathon on December 2 to 4. Go to VisitBarbados.org for details.
Barbados is one of the international capitals of cricket.
Today Polo in Barbados is a popular sport, played by international teams to a local home crowd and their supporters who visit with them, to a loyal local crowd of polo enthusiasts and tourists.
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Wonderful, Wild,
On this page: On this page: a mule deer roaming in the wilds. Opposite page: a Chestnut Leopard Appaloosa Mustang.
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Wyoming
Going where the deer and the antelope play, NICOLA BLAZIER takes a nostalgic pause and relives a moment from her youth. Photos by Flash Parker, Sheridan Travel & Tourism
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years ago I was on a quest to find something different. This time I was looking for what might still remain the same.
When I was a toddler, we had an old gramophone – the kind you would wind up and
the scratchy music would ring out old (really old) familiar songs. My parents bought it so I wouldn’t play with their stereo. I had just a few records of my own to play – but one of them was “Home on the Range”. I would play that song over and over again and maybe in some way it gave me the inspiration years later to go and find where those buffalo roamed and the deer and the antelope played. My first trip to Wyoming was with my best friend in our late 20s when we were both running away from broken relationships. There is a theory that when things go askew in your life, head to the mountains, or the ocean, something bigger than you are, to put your problems in perspective. So, we set out on our own kind of “Thelma and Louise” adventure (minus the epic plunge) from Toronto to Wyoming. The road trip was in a Jeep Wrangler, not exactly the smoothest ride, but it was a perfect vehicle at the time. The bumpy journey added to the healing experience. We had Garth (Brooks), Lyle (Lovett) and Dwight (Yoakam) tunes blaring on the car stereo as we made our way across the Midwest.
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Pronghorn antelope enjoying a stroll in the desert, Sweetwater County, Wyoming.
F
rom Toronto, it is about a three-day trek through southern Ontario and then once over the border, through Michigan, Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska and South Dakota until you hit Wyoming. We ended up at the HF Bar Ranch in Saddlestring (just outside of Buffalo, WY), one of the oldest dude ranches in the state. It was midSeptember, which is off-season, and when most of the East Coast folks had
headed home and, along with the owners and wranglers, we had the ranch virtually to ourselves. We rode horses all day and played poker with the ranch hands at night while learning the art of sipping Wild Turkey bourbon. If you have experience riding horses, have ridden a few times with the wranglers and can prove you are capable and know the trails, the wranglers will typically let you go out unescorted. We were pretty good riders, having taken English riding classes in our early teens, so off we went to explore the many trails and spectacular views around the HF Bar ranch. There was something about being on a horse – mine was an Appaloosa named Chocolate Chip – with the Big Horn Mountains as the backdrop and the beautiful big blue skies above that made me feel totally at ease and relaxed “at our home on the range.” It was on that saddle, in that spectacular setting that I experienced my “Aha” connected-to-nature and all-that-is-good moment. After that experience, I often thought of that wonderful time sitting in the saddle being so relaxed and happy and if I would ever experience it again. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 59
The annual Eaton’s Horse Drive (each May) sees cowboys from nearby Eaton’s Ranch run their thundering herd through the heart of Historic Downtown Sheridan in a unique spectacle that thrills thousands of spectators.
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I
did not register that it had been more than 20 years since my first trip to Wyoming until I was actually on the plane out to Sheridan (via Denver) early this summer. This time, I was going out for a meeting with a pre-trip to The Ea-
tons’ Ranch in Wolf – another one of the oldest ranches in the country with 135-plus year history. Eatons’ Ranch is a dude ranch as well as a working cattle ranch, located 18 miles west of Sheridan on 7,000 acres of rolling hills, grassy meadows and pastures, hidden valleys and creeks on the eastern slopes of the Bighorn Mountains surrounded by the bluest skies you can imagine. As soon as I arrived at the Eatons’ ranch, I was back on the saddle in every way. After checking into our rustic and comfortable log cabins with all the necessities a cowgirl could possibly want, I immediately set out for an afternoon ride. This time I was on a dun named Juggler who remained my horse for the next few days and in my cowgirl soul, even after check-out. There is something to be said for places that have returning guests year after year and The Eatons’ Ranch is one of them. The ranch has been hosting multiple generations of families for years. Grandparents who came when they were once kids now bring their adult kids and their grandchildren and all have many stories
I will not wait another years to return.
to share. Activities beyond horseback riding abound at the ranch including fishing, trap shooting, hiking, swimming and simply just being with nature. Breakfast, lunch and dinners are all served in the main dining hall where guests enjoy tasty, homecooked meals around big, family-style tables and where families and friends alike share their experiences from the day This trip confirmed that Wyoming remains the wonderful place I remembered.
Clockwise: Welcome to Wyoming Signage; inside Sheridan’s legendary Mint Bar; a cowboy and cowgirl statue at the Historic Sheridan Inn; our writer Nicola kissing a horse. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 61
Eagle, Play, Ah
In Thailand, women play an important role in the golf courses as caddies as seen here in the Summit Green Valley Golf Course, Chiang Mai.
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GO FORE IT: Anita Draycott takes in the fun and games and golf of Thailand. And, after the games, spa traditions reboot the body for another day of play
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Caddies are compulsory at almost every course and they are usually very well trained women and who, for 18 holes, become a butler, a valet, a cheerleader, a partner and a strategist!
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My
conversation with the taxi driver from the Phuket Airport began with him describing his six frugal years as a novice monk eating one bowl of rice a day in a jungle temple. Then he noticed
my luggage included golf clubs and began chattering enthusiastically about how he recently broke 100 using his new set of Callaway clubs. My driver had graduated from monk to hacker. Golf in Thailand began in 1923 when King Vajiravudh The Great agreed to the construction of the first course, Royal Hua Hin. Today there are about 250 courses in the Kingdom attracting swingers from all over the world. Golf, plus whatever other Siamese sybaritic pleasures our foursome could discover, was why we’d come to the “Land of Smiles.” Swingin’ the Blues Just minutes after landing at the Phuket Airport, we were teeing off at the Blue Canyon Country Club’s Canyon Course. Playing a round of golf here entails following in the footsteps of such legends as Tiger Woods, Nick Faldo and Ernie Els as many of Asia’s top tournaments have been hosted on this lush course by Japanese designer Yoshikazu Kato. Carved into the edge of a canyon, the fairways unfold across a verdant valley dotted with freshwater lakes. Number 13, the 390-yard signature hole, is also christened “The Tiger Hole” as Mr. Woods blasted 270 yards across the canyon from the black tees to the green. My favourite is number 14, a drop-dead gorgeous par-three that plays onto an almost-island green in the shape of Thailand from hugely elevated tees. Blue Canyon’s Lakes Course, also by Kato, features water on all but the 17th fairway. It’s a gentler test than the Canyon Course with gigantic greens and generous fairways. Caddie Chat In Thailand, caddies are mandatory and almost all of them are women. Each player receives her or his own caddie and cart for the round. At Blue Canyon, my caddie told me to call her Bun. Soaking wet she probably weighed about 67 pounds. After a few holes Bun had my game sized up and knew exactly what club to hand me. These tiny gals, clad in pantsuits and oversized visors in club colours, sometimes speak little English, but invariably they enhance your golfing experience. Bun made sure I had plenty of cold coconut water, she wrapped chilled towels scented with lemongrass around my neck, shielded me from the sun on the greens with an umbrella and fanned me with her “Hello Kitty” fan. As much as I love playing golf in Thailand, I must warn you that it is usually hot and humid, so you must stay cool and hydrated. Wearing two gloves also helps with slippery grips.
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A chef preparing a meal for the guests at the Baba Poolclub.
Pampering at Sri Panwa We stayed at the cliffhanging Sri Panwa resort in Phuket where luxury and a cool, hip vibe co-exist effortlessly. Their motto could be: “No jacket, no tie, no attitude.” Our huge penthouse villa offered commanding views of the surrounding islands and the Andaman Sea as we soaked in our own infinity plunge pool. The décor is contemporary and the hightech amenities include lighting dimmer switches with the choices of “welcome, romantic, sexy and off.” The kitchen was equipped with a full-size refrigerator, Nespresso machine, soft drinks, beer and snacks. Guests are transported around the vast resort via shuttle vans. Just call your butler and your chariot awaits. We had lots of dining options. You’ll enjoy tasty Thai dishes at Baba Soul Food. However, if you want to eat al fresco under the stars with the sea stretched out below, opt for the Baba Poolclub where tropical cocktails such as a Baba Tom Yam (vodka and lime juice flavoured with chilies and lemongrass) tempt. The extensive menu offers Japanese sushi, wood-fired pizzas, burgers, Wagyu steaks and the fresh catches of the day. Now I understand why Baba Poolclub has been named one of the world’s top pool bars. Later, head to Baba Nest, the rooftop bar for a nightcap. At the resort’s Cool Spa, a waterfall provided soothing background music while my masseuse, Vi, contorted me through the various positions of a two-hour Thai massage. Ingredients for various exotic treatments, such as mango, coconut and tamarind are often picked from Sri Panwa’s own herb and veggie garden. There are plenty of activities to keep you from leaving Sri Panwa, including tennis courts and boat service to nearby islands, but our top priority was Red Mountain Golf Club, billing itself as “the most exciting golf course in Phuket.” I might add the most dramatically beautiful and my favourite in all of Thailand.
On this page: traditional Thai dishes, infused with curry, spices, hot chili peppers, lemon grass and basil.
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Red Hot Golf Designed by Jon Morrow on what was a former tin mine, Red Mountain dips and dives to take full advantage of the dizzying elevation changes and red rock outcroppings. It’s a challenge but there are all sorts of risk and reward options along the 6,900 serpentine yards. And in keeping with the Thai caddie experience, I had the ever-enthusiastic Sarika to help me find my errant Titleists and humour me with cheers and claps when I managed par. Natural waste bunkers, towering precipices, deep ravines and flooded gullies are all seamlessly integrated. And as you weave your way through Red Mountain, you are rewarded with panoramic views over Phuket before heading back down another gully lined with tropical forest. The elevation changes so drastically on this layout that golf carts are compulsory. Every aspect of Red Mountain ensures that players are captivated by the exciting diversity of play and the spectacular natural scenery. The par-threes on Red Mountain are most memorable. The third requires a carry over what looks like an excavation zone; the spectacular signature 17th has elevated tees and a postage stamp green. Pick the right club and a birdie is yours.
Thai One On
Planning a trip to Thailand? Check out the following: Tourism Authority of Thailand na.tourismthailand.org Sri Panwa www.sripanwa.com
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Guide The
Toronto’s natural tendencies blend seamlessly with its urban flavour, and diverse cultural, sporting and after-dark pursuits. A city of 140 neighbourhoods, a lakeside landscape of beaches, sailboat-dotted marinas, and a skyline of glittering skyscrapers, Canada’s largest city defies just one description. We call it the Big Smoke – the capital of Ontario, it hugs the Great Lake of the same name. Welcome to a city within a park. This green space by the lake is home to 1,600 public parks and 600 km of trails. In early 2015, Toronto was found to be the world’s best city to live in by the Economist magazine’s Economist Intelligence Unit study, based on safety, liveability and cost of living. Here, how to take care of business in one of the friendliest, most diverse, and multicultural cities in the world. By MURIEL PARAS 68 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
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Canoe’s dining space and the Bison Tenderloin Carpaccio by Cindy La.
WHERE TO DROP YOUR BAGS 1 The Omni King Edward Conveniently located in the St. Lawrence neighbourhood, this hotel affectionately known as the “King Eddy” has been the choice of Queen Elizabeth II. And Hollywood royalty, too. Richard Burton proposed marriage to Elizabeth Taylor here in the 1960s. Old world charm with modern amenities; afternoon tea here is a most civilized must-do for traditionalists. omnihotels.com/hotels/toronto-king-edward
WHERE TO GO FOR LUNCH WITH PROSPECTIVE CLIENTS 2 Canoe: For a full-on Canadian experience. A champion of artisanal Canadian cuisine, executive chef John Horne is at the helm of this flagship of the city’s popular Oliver & Bonacini restaurant group. The Gold Medal Plates winner forges, and forages, new Canuck cuisine ground on a seasonal menu basis. His food pairs perfectly with the spectacular views of Lake Ontario and the glittering metropolis below. Tip: Vegans and vegetarians can call ahead for a customized tasting menu. oliverbonacini.com
Insider secrets 3 For Oysters: The Ceili Cottage A traditional Irish pub, this affordable Leslieville spot is a neighbourhood favourite, and a draw to weekend brunch types. On Sunday, dinner is a classic hot roast, while Paddy, champion Oyster shucker and Guinness World record holder, shows off his skills nightly. Tip: Sip from more than 100 types of Irish Whisky and 12 beers from around the world, only on tap. ceilicottage.com 4 For a dose of Art: The Art Gallery of Ontario Recently revamped by Toronto-born super architect Frank Gehry, the AGO is also home to an impressive collection of Henry Moore sculptures. Get lost in Canadiana with paintings from the Group of Seven, in the water-coloured world of impressionists and go back in time with some of the word’s old masters. Don’t miss The Idea of the North: The Paintings of Lawren Harris, and exhibit of the Group of Seven painter’s works, curated by the American actor, Steve Martin. He is, after all, a wild and crazy guy. ago.net
5 Distillery District Formerly the grounds of the Gooderham & Worts whisky distillery, this historic, pedestrian-only cobblestoned area is home to several unique retailers and restaurants, including Soma, a chocoholics paradise, and Mill Street Brewery, where they brew the amber fluid and offer inexpensive beer tasting tours. Soulpepper Theatre Company also presents its live lineup here.
Plus, 2 patios that rock the urban hotel vibe 6 Deq at the Ritz-Carlton. The inner “courtyard” on the park feel will have you thinking you’ve left the city; the interesting, yet somewhat pricey cocktail menu will ground you back in the city. But who cares? You only need one. The Drake Sky Yard rooftop. Sushi? Check. Happy Hour prices? Check. Celeb spotting? Naturally. When you’ve had enough sun, head to Underground and get your groove on in this basement dance hall.
North America’s fourth largest city (after Mexico City, New York and Los Angeles), with nearly 3 million people – and its greater metropolitan area, the GTA, supports more than 5 million.
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Into the Blue
S
antorini is a place of mystical proportions, where the panoramic villages cling to the steep slopes reminiscent of cream running down the sides of a cake berg. Here, you find the Aenaon Villas, perched on the very edge of the island’s famous Caldera in a secluded position, set between Imerovigli and Oia and
the brainchild of Giorgos and Alexandra Alexiou. Giorgos has the architectural eye and Alexandra is the hand of style that narrates the soul of Santorini, fittingly, in white – her favourite hue. The Aenaon Villas is like a boutique hotel, but has the luxury of being more private, born of a dream 15 years in the making: smooth, layered white interiors reference contemporary lines of design, which are cleverly provoked by the traditional crafted elements of sun-bleached woods and quarried stone – the signature of identity, locality and simplicity. Serenity is the foundation here, so when Giorgos and Alexandra decided to design the spaces around the villas, they opted for a room-pool-service concept rather than a full kitchen: simple tastes of the island including the sweetest Santorini tomatoes you have ever tasted, are matched with fond favourites – from the breakfast on your private terrace looking into the infinity of the Caldera to the classic Greek salad served poolside
THE AENAON VILLAS: The Design. The Vibe. The View.
or a little pre-sundowner snack, you won’t starve here. Caldera-watching on the island of Santorini is as natural as the Aegean is blue and from this style perch, you can enjoy this wonder without the crowds, a true front-row luxury. aenaonvillas.com
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Magda de la Torre
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EXPLORE THE UNDERWORLD,
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Harrison’s Cave, Barbados
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