Bold issue #45 City Escapes

Amazing places

to wake up

in Europe

CAPITAL COOL LIMA’S FOODIE HOT SPOTS COOL SANTO DOMINGO

Posh Palm Beaches Great Scottish Escapes

CHICAGO

OUR LITTLE BLACK BOOK

2 boldmagazine.ca June/July 2018

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6 boldmagazine.ca June/July 2018

CONTENTS JUNE/JULY 2018

In This Issue 44 PERFECT PERUANA

58 FORTUNA FIRENZE

52 DAYDREAMING IN THE NEW WORLD

64 HIGH WATER MARKS

Sarah Treleaven explores Lima through cuisine that’s both traditional and transformative

In Italy’s most loved city, Doug O’Neill sets off a marital dispute when he questions the local obsession with luck

Some places are made special by their proximity to water, as Liz Fleming discovers in her exploration of eight beautiful destinations

While the Dominican Republic is best known for its beaches, Waheeda Harris got lost in history walking the streets of Santo Domingo

Overlooking both the Adriatic and the ancient Old Town from Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik

8 boldmagazine.ca June/July 2018

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CONTENTS

36

17

JUNE/JULY 2018

26

Also in This Issue 12 EDITOR’S NOTE 14 CONTRIBUTORS

on where to stay, what to eat and what to do in Chicago

22 TRAVEL TWO WAYS: A Scottish

76 TRAVEL INTEL: Our tips on airports, duty-free and other travel challenges

manor in the highlands, and one in the Hebrides

24 WANDERLUST: A stylish oasis in Texas wine country

26 DINE: It’s not such hard work catching your own dinner 28 DRINK: The family behind one of the world’s most-awarded rums 30 FOOD DIARIES: The lives of chefs

Connie DeSousa and John Jackson in photos

32 POV: The pros and cons of travelling solo 33 WEEKENDER: The Palm Beaches’ new swagger

36 GLOBETROTTER: Singer and cinematic

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71 INSIDER’S GUIDE: Our little black book

17 STAY: Eight hot hotels that bring nature’s beauty right to your room

38

38 INSPIRED BY: Palácio Belmonte (for her) and Palácio Tangará (for him)

tour guide Aloe Blacc shares his travel philosophies

82 WORTH TRAVELLING FOR: San Juan

Chamula, Chiapas, Mexico

82

EXTRAORDINARY STORIES “Travel is a great way to experience things you normally wouldn’t in your everyday life—you learn so much and the real adventure lives in that.”

Avioner® STEPHANIE STERJOVSKI

FEED THE NEED TO TRAVEL with AND DISCOVER THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND EXPERIENCES THAT MAKE A TRIP UNFORGETTABLE. TURN TO PAGE 40 June/July 2018 boldmagazine.ca

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Broad Cities

It’s long been my position that every city of a reasonable size must have something worth discovering, otherwise no one would be living there. Even people who live to work need some sort of fun and beauty in their lives. As a visitor, then, it’s a matter of discovering a city’s soul, whether it’s worn on its sleeve or buried in an obscure neighbourhood. Beautiful courtyards may lurk beyond ugly streetscapes, an innovative art scene can distract from disappointing meals and a compelling history may be sufficient compensation for a lacklustre topography. Not every city can be Paris, nor should it be. Even sweaty Jakarta, with its wall compounds and endless traffic jams, has fabulous shopping malls.

Cities do have their detractors. On a recent trip to Hawaii, I noticed that people from the state’s more bucolic areas would talk about Honolulu—a lovely, easy-to-get-around beach city, with eating and shopping options you wouldn’t expect in a mid-sized metropolis—as if it were something out of Blade Runner, just as Canadians talk about Toronto as if it was a complete dystopian. I think it’s mostly reflexive jealousy or a lack of curiosity. Cities are unique, in the way that small towns can feel like they’re all the same. So sometimes cities require a learning curve, as they slowly reveal their virtues.

Thankfully, the cities we visit in this issue of BOLD require no effort at all to enjoy. Florence (page 58) is perhaps the most predictable—it’s a perennial favourite for good reason. Firenze’s delightful combination of history and beauty have, for generations of travellers, made it a destination against which other cities might be measured.

We chose Lima (page 44) because of its food, of course, and because it’s one of the most underappreciated Latin American capitals. When the fog clears, Lima’s a gem. And Santo Domingo (page 52), we chose purely for the element of surprise: Yes, you can have a cosmopolitan, urban experience in a region best known for its beaches and natural beauty.

Chicago and The Palm Beaches also make appearances in this issue, though if you really need to get out of town, there’s always rural Scotland, Texas wine country or a fishing expedition. Like any good city, we don’t want anyone to feel left out.

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12 boldmagazine.ca June/July 2018

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CONTRIBUTORS JUNE/JULY 2018

ON THE COVER Touring the grounds of São Lourenço do Barrocal Estate in Alentejo, Portugal.

Marlon J. Moreno Publisher + Editorial Director Luis Chavez Associate Publisher, Special Projects Paul Gallant Executive Editor Liz Fleming Associate Editor, Digital Magda de la Torre Americas Editor CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Andrew Brudz • Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Liz Fleming • Waheeda Harris Vawn Himmelsbach • Ruth J. Katz Doug O’Neill • Sarah Treleaven ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN Laura García PHOTOGRAPHY Tishan Baldeo

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44

52

ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH Writer

SARAH TRELEAVEN Writer

WAHEEDA HARRIS Writer

TEXAS, DISRUPTED

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based freelance writer who specializes in topics of food and travel.

She’s also the co-author of two Globe and Mail bestselling cookbooks and is a regular contributor on CBC Radio. When she’s not writing, she’s likely off on a road trip adventure with her husband and two kids.

PERFECT PERUANA

Sarah Treleaven is a Canadian journalist who divides her time between Toronto and Jerusalem. She started out her career at O, the Oprah magazine, in New York City.

She has since written for a wide range of publications, including National Post, The Globe and Mail, Toronto Star and ELLE magazine, just to name a few.

DAYDREAMING IN THE NEW WORLD A traveller from an early age, Waheeda Harris has been writing about our planet for the past 10 years. She appreciates good design, the aisle seat on a plane and one switch to turn off hotel-room lights. She’s grateful to learn about the planet every day.

WEB DEVELOPER Rahul Nair SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Juan Felipe Galán ADVERTISING & SALES United in Change Media Yvonne Xenidis Chief Revenue Officer 416-624-5496 yvonne@unitedinchange.com For Lifestyle and Co-Branded Partnerships, Promotions, Reprints and Sponsorships inquiries marlon@morenoco.com • luis@morenoco.com Phone: 1.416.323.7828 extension 25 PUBLIC RELATIONS AGENCY Jesson + Company jessonco.com info@jessonco.com 77 Bloor St. West, Suite 1200 Toronto, ON M5S 1M2 CORRESPONDENCE The Hudson Bay Centre 20 Bloor St. East, P.O. Box 75075 Toronto, ON M4W 3T3 BOLD ® is published bimonthly by Moreno & Company Inc. Opinions expressed in BOLD® are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers. BOLD® does not assume liability for content.

All prices quoted are in rounded Canadian dollars, accurate at press time, unless otherwise noted. www.boldmagazine.ca

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because of your rich colonial history

GRANADA Located near the shores of Lake Nicaragua, Granada is one of Nicaragua’s most important cities historically and is currently one of the nation’s tourism hubs. Founded in 1524 by Francisco Hernandez de Córdoba, Granada has a rich colonial heritage, seen in its architecture and structure. Pictured here, Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral - built around 1525.

Ostensibly the first European city in mainland America, the city of Granada was not only the settlement of the conquest, but also a city registered in official records of the Crown of Aragón, and the Kingdom of Castile in Spain.

Style MEN’S EDITION

The Essential Reference for the Fashionable Traveller

FALL 2018

AGENDA SEE. EXPERIENCE. HEAR. SHARE. GO.

RINGSIDE VIEWS Europe’s chicest hotels have as much to love outside as they do in. Here, eight unforgettable places to hang your hat. BY ANDREW BRUDZ

LE DOMAINE MISINCU THE LOCATION: Cap Corse, Corsica THE OUTSIDE: Splendour in the Mediterranean.

Corsica’s Cap Corse, a peninsula on the northern tip, is where this five-star, eco-friendly boutique hotel is set against 85 acres of parks, gardens and coves in the island’s last remaining untouched region. Experience it all with guest-only access to a fleet of Tesla cars.

THE INSIDE: While the outdoors is unspoiled, guests of the hotel are anything but! Modern luxury gets the Corsican treatment with local fabrics, materials and woods.

THE RATES: Rooms from $320/night. hotel-misincu.com

June/July 2018 boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA

[ STAY ]

HOTEL TWENTYSEVEN THE LOCATION: Dam Square, Amsterdam, Netherlands THE OUTSIDE: Perfectly situated at the city centre, with a glimpse of the lively square and up close to some of the Dutch capital’s most glorious architecture, including the 17 th-century neoclassic Royal Palace, which is still in use and open to the public.

THE INSIDE: The hotel’s interior is just as striking, with lush, international finishings: Nepalese carpets, handmade Italian curtains and velvet wallpaper by Pierre Frey France, with artwork from Amsterdam’s own Cobra Art. THE RATES: Rooms from $840/night. hoteltwentyseven.com

THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Hotel TwentySeven is in the heart of Amsterdam; cocktails in Bar TwentySeven; the master suite; the lobby of São Lourenço do Barrocal; the exterior of the estate.

SÃO LOURENÇO DO BARROCAL

LEFT TO RIGHT: Picnic bicycles for guests, interior details of the bar.

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THE LOCATION: Monsaraz, Portugal THE OUTSIDE: An orange grove, vineyard, estate lake and vegetable garden are just a few of the sprawling sites you can enjoy from this working-farm-cum-luxury-hotel in Portugal’s untamed Alentejo region.

THE INSIDE: With 200 years of family history, it’s no surprise that the 40 rooms of this white stucco beauty are filled with vintage homestead artefacts. But it’s also mixed with all the comforts and trappings of a modern boutique hotel.

THE RATES: Rooms from $220/night. barrocal.pt

THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The pool at Nobu; Nobu’s chic restaurant; the view from Grand Forest Metsovo; GFM’s organic bean and chicken salad; the pool at GFM.

NOBU HOTEL MARBELLA THE LOCATION: The Golden Mile, Marbella, Spain THE OUTSIDE: Earning its moniker, gold sand beaches stretch alongside the palm-tree-lined streets on one side and the blue-onblue skyline on the other. The strip joins the charming old town with the glamorous nightlife of Puerto Banus.

THE INSIDE: Mediterranean cool abounds throughout the 49 room, adults-only hotel, with cream hues, light wood and a spa overlooking the sea. When you’re ready to get the night going, a convenient mixology cart serves up in-room cocktails.

THE RATES: Rooms from $350/night. nobuhotels.com/marbella

GRAND FOREST METSOVO THE LOCATION: Metsovo, Greece THE OUTSIDE: Experience mountaintop tranquility at this secluded five-star hotel. It’s nestled among the peaks of the Pindos, near the Arachthos, a calm mountain river, wooded trails and caves. Stop along the way for a picnic—with baskets available from the hotel.

THE INSIDE: Lodge meets lux. Suites’ floor-to-ceiling windows and private balconies provide views of the natural splendour and twinkling city lights below.

Restaurant Metsovo 1350m offers traditional and regional fare, and a panoramic rooftop view.

THE RATES: Rooms from $185/night. grand-forest.gr

June/July 2018 boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA

[ STAY ]

HOTEL EXCELSIOR DUBROVNIK THE LOCATION: Dubrovnik, Croatia THE OUTSIDE: This 1913 villa once welcomed royalty (both Hollywood and otherwise). Today, you can feel like a king or queen while overlooking the old town below.

For the best view of the walls of Dubrovnik, sit on the terrace at the hotel’s restaurant, Sensus. You may even get to oooh and aaah at a fireworks display.

THE INSIDE: A 2017 reno added a sleek, modern addition, known as The Tower, with rooms featuring bright bursts of colour and decadent furnishings.

THE RATES: Rooms from $300/night. slh.com/excelsiordubrovnik

SEVERIN’S—THE ALPINE RETREAT THE LOCATION: Lech am Arlberg, Austria THE OUTSIDE: One of the world’s premier skiing destinations, the peaks of Arlberg mountain is just a lift ride away. And when you’re not on the slopes, relax on your suite’s terrace or balcony overlooking the village and landscapes.

THE INSIDE: Retreat to your warm, cozy—yet surprisingly tech-savvy—suite, where ancient Tyrolean wood and log fireplaces combine with iPad lighting controls and hidden sound systems.

THE RATES: Open from December to April, rooms from $1,000/night. severins-lech.a

THIS PAGE FROM TOP: See the sea from the Abakus piano bar; interior of a Severin’s suite.

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SANDHOTEL THE LOCATION: Reykjavík, Iceland THE OUTSIDE: Past meets present at this boutique hotel, created from a historic row of townhouses each more fascinating than the last: a former home of Nobel Prize-winning author, Halldór Laxness; Sandholt, a bakery making the country’s most famous cinnamon buns; and the former home of gentlemen’s store Guðsteinn Eyjólfsson, first opened in 1918.

THE INSIDE: Bask in modern luxury and art deco stylings, artwork by Icelandic artists, and plush fabrics from the city’s oldest tailors.

THE RATES: Rooms from $380/night. sandhotel.is

One of the plush rooms at Reykjavík’s Sandhotel.

June/July 2018 boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA [ TRAVEL TWO WAYS ]

MANOR IN THE HIGHLANDS HOW TWO DIFFERENT PROPERTIES SHINE VERY DIFFERENT LIGHTS ON THE PLEASURES OF SCOTLAND

BY RUTH J. KATZ

THE TORRIDON I am immediately captivated by the selection of books proffered in my sumptuous room at The Torridon, a stunning hotel tucked into a corner of the northwestern Highlands, not far from Achnasheen. A weathered copy of The Complete Poultry Keeper and Farmer beckoned, along with a half-dozen other eclectic reads, all perfect to peruse in front of the fireplace in the comfy library/ living room.

The Torridon is, as you might guess, flanked by breathtaking scenery, in the middle of what feels like nowhere. After driving for an hour through wilderness, you are suddenly rewarded with the unexpected vision of the regal manor house, the one-time holiday home of Englishman William King-Noel, the first Earl of Lovelace, and a distinguished scientist. Built in 1887, the estate is a fine specimen, as the website notes, “of the kind of Scottish holiday home that the English nobility enjoyed after Queen Victoria made the Highlands of Scotland ‘respectable’ again.”

Respectable, indeed… and homey. There is a cache of Scottish sweets adjacent to the coffee service and a furry Highland cow on the bed, a stuffed-animal replica of the real bovines ambling around the front yard, adjacent to Loch Torridon. Walking down the gentle embankment, I see blazing heather in a half-dozen shades of mauve and amethyst.

Yet in the middle of this “nowhere,” I am graced with every amenity. Despite being told I might enjoy lunching at the Applecross Inn on a remote peninsula some 45 minutes away, I am happy to stay put to savour the treats on the grounds: an award-winning, fine restaurant, staffed by polished and knowledgeable servers; a more casual eatery in the inn on the grounds; a gin and whisky bar (where the barkeep gave us one of the best Scotch tastings I have ever enjoyed—no wonder, as the bar is stocked with 350 varieties of malt whisky); and activities to while away a few days in Gaelic paradise.

Set on 58 acres of both rugged and bucolic parkland and surrounded by the Torridon Mountains, the property calls for an almost mandatory guided walk with a park ranger. Other activities include more serious guided mountain tours, kayaking, rock climbing, gorge scrambling, archery, clay-pigeon shooting, mountainbiking, canoeing and just strolling through the splendidly fragrant kitchen garden. thetorridon.com

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MANOR IN THE HEBRIDES LEWS CASTLE Another spectacular manor house awaited me in Stornoway, on Lewis Island in the Outer Hebrides, a two-and-a-half hour boat ride from Ullapool on the mainland. In all of the Hebrides there are some 20,000 residents, and Lewis is home to half that number, with 80 per cent of that population in Stornoway, the island “metropolis.” There are nearly as many lochs (6,000) in the Outer Hebrides as there are residents.

Overlooking colourful Stornoway harbour, the regal Gothic-revival-style castle, now a self-catering retreat, was built in the mid-1800s by Sir James Matheson, a wealthy merchant who developed the surrounding area. Over the years, this regal structure functioned as a hospital during the Second World War, a college, a school and now a destination for getaways and events. Painstakingly restored with many Hebridean details and locally sourced furnishings, the retreat’s apartments are sleek and modern, furnished in neutral tones, but with surprisingly bold splashes of unexpected colour—royal blue chairs, chartreuse throw pillows, a vermillion footstool, a lemon-yellow piano bench, all against period details.

Natural Retreats, which owns and manages the property, has designed the floor plans so that sleeping chambers, kitchens and living rooms can be reconfigured. The well-equipped kitchens are immaculate. Although staff will stock the fridge and cupboard with anything you request, it’s a short walk off the castle grounds into the quaint town, where the main street is lined with charming shops, restaurants and services—even a Tesco superstore.

For those who don’t feel like cooking, there is light fare in the Castle’s Storehouse Café, but you’re more likely to want to wander into town to one of the restaurants. Check out the cozy Digby Chick where contemporary Scottish fare is prepared. Around the corner is a very well-stocked Harris Tweed boutique— this island is the official home to all “official” Harris Tweed. And should you care to explore Harris, you’ll be rewarded on the rugged west coast with some of Scotland’s most striking beaches. lews-castle.co.uk

THE DETAILS The Torridon and Lews Castle are two of the nearly three dozen destinations in the Luxury Scotland Collection, which includes five world-class golf venues, three castles, five city hotels and a wide range of majestic, country-house hotels. naturalretreats.co.uk; luxuryscotland.co.uk; visitscotland.com

June/July 2018 boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA [ WANDERLUST ]

W

TEXAS, Disrupted In the heart of Texas wine country, a town stakes its claim on doing better than BBQ. It turns out that if you build luxury, they will come

24 boldmagazine.ca June/July 2018

hen Richard Bropae found himself opening a business in Fredericksburg, a small Texas town between Austin and San Antonio, he wasn’t entirely convinced that the community would be able to support his vision for a sophisticated complex celebrating art, design and fine dining. But his partner (in business and in life) chef Jordan Muraglia had family in the area and the beautiful historic building that the pair managed to find through Murgalia’s father was not only perfect, but affordable, leading them to open Vaudeville in 2012.

Vaudeville is a multi-floored wonderland housing a high-end design and housewares shop, a basement bistro and wine bar, an upstairs art gallery showcasing modern Texas artists and an exclusive semi-hidden ultra-posh supper club that’s only open three nights a week. It would be a destination spot even in a large, cosmopolitan city. In rural Texas, it’s a revelation.

“We decided to call it Vaudeville because we have so many different avenues coming together,” says Bropae. “Plus the building we’re in is from the Vaudeville era—and there’s the concept where we were coming to town and really developing a new kind of act.”

Fredericksburg has not been known as a particularly glitzy destination. The town itself is small and full of rural Texas charm, with a vague European influence leftover from the community’s German founders. It’s home to the National Museum of the Pacific War and President Lyndon B. Johnson’s country home, down-home pie shops and “Sunday houses,” one-room rental properties originally used by farmers coming into town for Sunday church services dot quiet residential streets. The main street boasts an old five-and-dime and is intentionally devoid of chain stores or restaurants to reinforce that “aw shucks” appeal.

“The main street is devoid of chain stores to reinforce that ‘aw shucks’ appeal”

Still, Vaudeville’s decidedly glamorous presence in Fredericksburg isn’t out-of-place. Among the peach orchards and wildflower patches that make up the rolling hills of Texas Hill Country, opportunistic farmers grow grapes and make wine, setting up elaborate tasting experiences to draw in day-tripping urbanites from San Antonio and Austin. With more than 50 wineries in the area, the competition for tourists is palpable.

Some forward-thinking wineries like Kuhlman Cellars offer special food-pairing tastings in slick private tasting rooms. Others, like the familyrun Narrow Path, set up shop right in downtown Fredericksburg to give visitors a chance to sample right on the main street.

Wine tourists also tend to expect fine food and, following Vaudeville’s lead, local chefs have stepped up to create worthy menus. As a result, Fredericksburg is not nearly as BBQ-centric as neighbouring Texas-proud cities. The Cabernet Grill, led by locally celebrated chef Ross Burtwell, serves Texas-casual fine dining fare that begs to be paired with local wines, while Otto’s slyly capitalizes on Fredericksburg’s German history, with hip takes on Bavarian classics, prepared with fresh Texan ingredients.

Bropae doesn’t pretend to suppose that Vaudeville has been the sole catalyst in Fredericksburg’s rise. But with other destination businesses like the boho-chic clothier Magnolia Pearl’s flagship store having opened in recent years, he certainly does see his neighbours clueing into the idea of creating high-end businesses to draw visitors, even if only for the evening or weekend during a trip to San Antonio or Austin.

“Some people refer to the timeline of the town as being ‘pre-’ and ‘post-Vaudeville’ and the town has changed in the last six years,” Bropae adds. “But that’s not just because of us—we were the first ones in town selling luxury, but the movement was happening, we were just pushing it further.”

—ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Spotted prawn from the kitchen of FrederIcksberg’s Vaudeville; a landmark on the town’s main street; life and business partners Richard Bropae and chef Jordan Muraglia; an excursion into Grape Creek Vineyards.

FRIENDLY AS A TEXAS SMILE Getting There Getting to Fredericksberg is a relaxing roll through rural Texas by car. The drive is an hour and a half west from Austin or an hour and 15 minutes northwest from San Antonio.

The Wine Texas wine may seem like a novelty, but the state is actually one of North America’s first wine-producing regions. While many of Texas Hill Country’s wineries use grapes from other parts of Texas (primarily the Texas High Plains in the northwest corner of the state) or California in their blends, the region is prime for growing Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

Stay Fredericksburg has a number of standard hotels, but it’s best to book a room in a historic compound like Hoffman Haus, which features a number of small houses that date back as far as the late 1800s, or Cotton Gin Village, an actual village of rustic cottages similar to Fredericksburg’s famous Sunday houses. hoffmanhaus.com; cottonginlodging.com

June/July 2018 boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA [ DINE ]

Off the hook

WHEN DEEP-SEA FISHING AT A LUXE RESORT, IT REALLY CAN BE ALL FUN AND GAMES WITHOUT THE HASSLE OF CUTTING AND CLEANING YOUR OWN SUPPER

“W 26 boldmagazine.ca June/July 2018

here do we put down the lines?” I ask the captain as our boat gets further from shore.

“We’re midwater trawling right now,” he tells me and I take notice of the four lines extending out from poles mounted at the rear of the vessel.

“Well, that was easy. What next?”

“Another drink?”

From the outset, I wasn’t keen on fishing, even with One&Only Resort’s Catch Cook Cocktail program. Sure, the resort itself was fantastic. Sure, spending four hours on a 15-plusmetre yacht, sailing through beautiful turquoise water sounded fantastic.

But I’d rather be sailing with a cocktail in my hand, not a rod and reel. Never much of a sportsman, the idea of fishing conjured childhood memories digging for worms and being scolded for doing a poor job of cleaning off the scales.

But Catch Cook Cocktail, which One&Only offers at its Palmilla resort in Los Cabos, Mexico, and at the Le Saint Géran resort on Mauritius, turned me into a serious fisherman.

At least for a day. (I tried it in the Bahamas, off Nassau, where it’s no longer available from One&Only.)

Nibbling on seafood prepared by the chef, beer in hand, I waited for one of the lines to go taut so I could take my turn. And just when I least expected it, one of the lines went taut.

Stuart—call him our fishing assistant and coach—helped me get set up in the fighting chair and corrected my posture for pulling and reeling, pull and reeling for our midwater trawling.. My colleagues had already brought in a small tuna and a couple of barracudas—not the best results, but not awful for a group of amateurs.

When I took the rod, it soon became

apparent that I had a substantial adversary on the other end of the line.

“Maybe an hour?” Stuart told me.

“It’s big.” Apparently I was in for a battle. I leaned in to let the line go slack, then reeled in, trying to find my rhythm. Pull back, reel, repeat. A little like sitting in a rocker as someone tries to tug you out of it. My hours at the gym had not been for naught.

Less than 30 minutes later, I had him: a 45-pound wahoo that was, I can boast, the catch of the day.

“Enough for maybe 30 people,” Stuart laughed.

“Depends on how hungry people are!” I replied, taking a step back to let the crew do the dirty work.

Back on terra firma, there were decisions to make. Working with the chef, our group helped plan a meal based on our catch. With such fresh ingredients—the fish arrived in the kitchen at about the same time we did—we agreed that the simplest preparations would be best. Wahoo blackened on a grill, served on a bed of vegetables and grains, preceded by sashimi made from the tuna. The barracudas were, unfortunately, not up to snuff.

While our dinner was being prepared, we sauntered over to the bar where, under the watchful eyes of one of the resort’s mixologists, we made our own cocktails. A couple of brave souls tried their own experiments, but

I was happy to have been assigned to the margarita—a drink I’ve tasted enough to know right from wrong. I wasn’t spending my whole day out of my element.

At the end of our meal, my fellow diners teased me and thanked me for my impressive catch. But the truth is, it was mostly just luck. And a seamless program that allowed me all the pleasures of bringing home dinner with none of the downside. There is such a thing as DIY luxury. —PAUL GALLANT

“WHEN I TOOK THE ROD, IT SOON BECAME APPARENT THAT I HAD A SUBSTANTIAL ADVERSARY ON THE OTHER END OF THE LINE”

HERE’S THE CATCH… The One&Only Catch Cook Cocktail package includes a four-hour fishing expedition on a yacht, a cooking class with the resort’s culinary team, a cocktail class with a mixologist, signature welcome tequila drinks, other drinks and snacks and the priceless pleasure of eating what you caught. The fish you’ll catch depends on the location, the weather and your skill and perseverance. A three-night culinary adventure at the Palmilla in Los Cabos starts at US$5,805 for two people in an ocean-view suite. At Le Saint Géran, a fourday package starts at US$5,388. oneandonlyresorts.com

June/July 2018 boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA [ DRINKS ]

Rum Genius THE RICHEST MAN IN CENTRAL AMERICA MAKES IT HIS MISSION TO REFINE THE MOST TROPICAL OF SPIRITS PHOTOS BY ALEXA CUDE At the top of Cerro Negro volcano, in Nicaragua’s Cordillera de los Maribios mountain range, our host pulls out a bottle of 25-year-old Flor de Caña rum, a hip-hip-hurrah for having successfully made the onehour hike up the steep slope. It also works as a shot of liquid courage for the next step in our group’s Nicaraguan adventure: shooting down the 728-metre-high volcano on a board that resembles an old-fashioned sled.

The surf down—which took me less than three minutes, even after an injury-free wipeout that threw me head over heels into the dust—is exhilarating. So is the drink, which won Best Rum of the Year at last year’s International Rum Conference in Madrid. With the taste of fruit, almonds and caramel, this is the longest-aged Flor de Caña rum on the market and it can put many single-malt whiskies to shame.

Carlos Pellas Chamorro, whose family owns Flor de Caña, has been a champion of making rum an elevated and sophisticated experience, not just something to be cut with cola while on a beach holiday. With rum aged in oak bourbon barrels for between four and 25 years (the mesmerizing 30-year stuff is currently only available by barrel pull when visiting one of their properties), the family has reset global expectations of what rum can be. At one tasting during a trip hosted by Flor de Caña, we’re asked to pour some 25-year onto our hands. At first it seems like wasteful blasphemy, but it’s a clear demonstration of the rum’s refinement: there’s no sticky texture whatsoever.

The Pellas family is the richest in Central America, with dozens of businesses ranging from car dealerships to luxury resorts to banking and insurance, and at least three private islands, to their name. Which makes them extraordinarily suitable advocates for the finer things. In 1875,

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The boat ride to one of the Pellas family’s private islands.

Pellas Chamorro’s great grandfather, Francisco Alfredo Pellas Canessa, moved from Italy to Nicaragua to oversee the family’s shipping company.

When a transoceanic canal was built in Panama, rather than Nicaragua, a very disappointed Francisco Alfredo moved their investments from shipping to sugarcane production, an industry from which a fortune—and a knack for rum production—was born.

The family’s original mansion, an enormous marble-filled Europeanstyle villa built in 1927, still stands guard over the main square of Granada, one of the country’s most prestigious addresses. Their US$250-million, 1,670-acre Mukul resort, on the country’s Pacific coast, might be the poshest in Latin America. Staying in one of Mukul’s luxury villas, I had my own private steps leading to the huge, surfer-friendly beach… for the rare times I got bored swimming in my private pool. I’m told that many Pellas family members have been so taken with Mukul since it opened in 2013, that they have all but forsaken the family’s usual party place, located on a private island in Lake Nicaragua.

Perhaps eager not to appear spoiled or indulgent to their fellow country people, the Pellas family takes their philanthropy and corporate social responsibility very seriously. Both Carlos Pellas Chamorro and his wife Vivian Fernández were severely burned in a 1989 plane crash, and one of Fernández’s passion projects is a care unit for children who have suffered from burns. The distillery itself is powered entirely by renewable energy, and every year the company plants 50,000 trees to protect water resources and wildlife in the region.

As their rum offerings increasingly skew toward the connoisseur (though the five-year rum is, so far, their bestseller in Canada, providing exceptional bang-for-the-buck for an aged spirit), the image as exemplary corporate citizens remains as important as the rum itself. On my visit, we spent as much time visiting the burn unit and the well-appointed company school as we spent indulging in the luxuries the family has the power to deliver. Knowing all this, indeed, makes the rum taste better, especially with a few from atop a volcano.

Since my visit, Nicaragua has been going through a political crisis that has been shaking the country to its core. As a fan of the country, it’s been heartbreaking to watch. But I am confident that the spirit of the country and its people will eventually make it through; Nicaragua is still worth celebrating. —PAUL GALLANT

MORE THAN MOJITOS Though rum is thought to have been first distilled in Middle Europe in the Middle Ages, the drink has become closely associated with the Caribbean, the colonial-era epicentre of its key ingredient, sugarcane.

But the history of rum cocktails is as fascinating as the history of rum itself.

THE FLIP Invented as early as the 1600s, this mixed drink was originally composed of warmed rum, beer, molasses and egg. A more modern version might combine two parts rum, one whole egg, half part simple syrup and one part cream. Try it with nutmeg.

THE MACUÁ Composed of two parts white rum, two parts guava juice, one part lemon juice and sugar to taste, this Nicaraguan answer to the Cuba Libre is named after a native tropical bird. It was invented in 2006, in answer to a national competition.

THE ZOMBIE Credited with rum’s resurgence in the early 1900s, the Tiki trend made this tropical drink world famous. The drink contains one part dark rum, one part light rum, one part apricot brandy, one part lime juice grenadine and orange juice.

DAIQUIRI Made with rum, fresh lime juice and sugar, this is the simplest and most satisfying of cocktails. But its origins are contentious. The strongest claim goes to Jennings Cox, who was in Cuba during the Spanish–American War, and might have been inspired by the Canchánchara, a blend of rum, lemon, honey and water.

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AGENDA

[ FOOD DIARIES ]

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5

Flesh &Blood CONNIE DESOUSA and JOHN JACKSON have elevated the art of the grill—and the global reputation of Canadian meat

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caught up with Top Chef Canada finalist Connie DeSousa and her partner-in-food John Jackson just after they toured the Mayan Riviera, showing off their skills with Canadian beef. Which is their thing. Since the co-owners/co-executive chefs of Calgary’s acclaimed Charcut Roast House first met in 1999, and then worked together to open the restaurant of San Francisco’s St. Regis Hotel, they have championed carne Canadiense like no others. Their East Village Charbar, led by chef Jessica Pelland, lit its Argentine woodfired grill back in 2015, expanding their meaty empire in Calgary. But the duo are frequently on the road. This spring they biked almost 500 kilometres over the course of three days, as part of the Chefs Cycle for No Kid Hungry ride in California. The Golden State has a special place in DeSousa’s heart. “San Francisco is where we fell in love with food. The dishwashers were more educated about food than we were coming into it,” she says. —PAUL GALLANT

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1. DeSousa: We did an event with Sheldon Simeon, who was on Top Chef Seattle. He came to Calgary and took part in our Pig and Poke collaboration, which was great fun. Maybe we look a little scary, but that’s not blood on the blade. Those are blossoms.

Jackson: I bought one of my little Japanese paring knives and Connie got a beautiful knife that was manufactured in Japan.

2. Jackson: That was launching our newest catering venture and Roger Mooking flew in from Toronto. He’s a riot, super fun guy. We had a taco station with crab, oysters, shrimp and a tableside station with homemade guacamole.

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3. DeSousa: We were in London a couple of years ago for Meatopia UK, which is a giant barbecue-themed event that started in New York. That’s Francis Mallmann in the scarf. He’s from Argentina, very passionate and unique. He’s a real master of open-fire cooking and storytelling by cooking.

The venue is in what was an old tobacco dock in London, where all the tobacco trading used to happen, so it’s used to a lot of smoke. We fell in love with the Argentine wood-fired grill. We’ve got two of them, one in the Charbar, the other at Rooftop. You have to be able to control the distance from the fire, and it lets you use all the meat juices and fat instead of it dripping away.

Jackson: We’re with Chad Rittenhouse, who is the executive chef of events and catering at Charbar.

4. Jackson: We were cooking at a shellfish festival with chef Michael Smith, doing PEI beef on the shore for about 200 people in the rain.

DeSousa: We built a structure for the fire out of cinderblocks to create a rotisserie and served giant ribeyes.

They were eating seafood all week so they were very happy to see us coming.

Jackson: It was about an hour from Michael Smith’s place, the Inn at Bay of Fortune.

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4 a list of ingredients that are indigenous to Alberta and each chef made a dish based around one. We made honey-cured trout.

6. Jackson: After Alberta hosted Cook It Raw, we went to the event in Ørland, Norway, and that’s me diving for sea urchins off a small island there, which has a population of 12. It was the first time I had done dry-suit diving.

We learned all about the local cuisine, the wild game.

DeSousa: I went foraging in a helicopter. We found seaweed and local herbs.

7. That’s the Veneto region of Italy, near Venice, where we source some of the wines in our restaurants. We brought our chef de cuisine Brody Ashton along with us on this trip. We made a stuffed pig, with sausage meat and dined al fresco.

Jackson: This was during the crush season so the grapes were at the perfect ripeness to be picked for wine. We picked some ingredients from the trees for dessert.

5. This is Raw Alberta, which is part of Cook It Raw, founded by Alessandro Porcelli, where chefs from around the world gather at a place to identify a region’s culinary identity, the terroir. In 2013, we were invited to Cook It Raw in Charleston, South Carolina, and we pushed for Cook It Raw to come to Canada. We brought everybody to Kananaskis to show them what we think is the most beautiful part of Alberta. This photo was taken after a day spent on the lake. We identified

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AGENDA [ POV ]

Solo, but never alone Travelling on one’s own may seem like a daunting proposition, but SARAH TRELEAVEN has learned to love the liberation it brings

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ears ago, I went to Paris all alone for six weeks and I was often vaguely miserable. It was my first experience of being truly alone for any extended period of time.

I found Paris undeniably enchanting, but my lack of fluent French and the city’s sometimes-icy formality meant I went days without conversations beyond sad-sack Skype calls with my family. It was autumn, the most beautiful time to be in Paris, and I would stop to buy sweet spongy little cannelles, bring my notebook down to the Seine and sigh audibly, trying to figure out why I wasn’t enjoying the experience more.

Eventually I found myself sitting in some of the more touristy cafés, hunting to chat with another anglophone. I smiled extra hard at random strangers in elevators, willing them to engage with me. My desperation peaked when a Good Samaritan neighbour with passable English knocked on my door to tell me that he could see me through my window when I was changing my clothes. Instead of being embarrassed and speeding through the interaction, I actually tried to prolong it, asking him about all kinds of things I wasn’t really interested in, including his car.

Still, by the time I left Paris, something had changed. Instead of a constant thrum of anxiety, I’d eased into doing things at my own pace.

I realized how little of my life had been spent in service of my, and only my, wishes and expectations. I realized I could, at any given time, do whatever the hell I wanted. Once I came to that realization, the thrill was enormous.

I’m far from the only one who thrives on the idea going on my own.

Recently, Intrepid launched a new line of tours designed for solo travellers who don’t want to travel alone. This year, Abercrombie & Kent started offering a discount for solo travellers, and the Solo Travel Awards were launched. Many cruise lines are dropping single supplements and offering more and more activities aimed at solo travellers. It makes sense: Exodus reports that 50 per cent of the clients who book their tours are solo travellers.

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Solo travel isn’t perfect. It can be more expensive and periodically lonely. When you sit down to dinner, you can’t order as many dishes and if you see something extraordinary, there’s no one there to share it with. And while most places in the world are reasonably safe, there is an additional layer of wariness that creeps into those late-night walks home alone.

I remember my first night alone in Mexico City, slightly unnerved by the city’s reputation and uncertain about the boundaries for tourists.

When I asked about safety at the front desk of my hotel, they reassured me and suggested a nearby taco stand and a mezcaleria a few blocks away. As I stood on the street, awaiting my pork tacos, I felt my shoulders relax. Later, sipping a flight of different mezcals served by a remarkably welcoming bartender in a dimly lit, very hip room, I realized I wasn’t just not lonely; I was actually thrilled to wrap myself up in the city’s vibrant, colourful, busy fabric without any interference.

When you travel with others, there’s a huge focus on the relationship you share, as you compromise over activities and try not to step on toes. But when you travel by yourself, the relationship you focus on is your relationship to the place—and it can change the way you experience the world.

I’ve been back to Paris solo at least a half dozen times, and I’ve learned to appreciate the best things about being in there alone: peaceful, window-shopping strolls down Rue St. Honore with only an ice-cream cone for company; reading in Place des Vosges while stretched out over soft grass; a leisurely stroll through the Centre Pompidou; and evenings spent sipping sweet kirs and feeling like I have all the time in the world.

It can be both tough and liberating to be alone in Paris, where everyone is seemingly in love and late night, wine-heavy meals are de rigueur with every other table seemingly full of lifelong friends. I’ve now learned to appreciate the full range of company on my travels: the trips with friends and family, the strangers you meet along the way, and the sometimes strange and often wonderful space of being on your own.

Every solo trip gets easier.

Illustration by Laura García

“It’s only when you’re alone that you realize where you are.You have nothing to fall back on except your own resources” —Paul Theroux

BOLD STYLE GEAR UP. PACK. TAKE OFF.

Heaven Itself

(NOT THE WAITING ROOM)

While The Palm Beaches are as posh as ever, VAWN HIMMELSBACH discovers that an infusion of young blood has brought the Florida community a more contemporary sensibility June/July 2018 boldmagazine.ca

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BOLD STYLE [ WEEKENDER ]

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step onto the grass in wedges, flute of champagne in hand, following the lead of the locals. It’s half-time, and a sea of floral sundresses and Lilly Pulitzer-print rompers flood the polo field to partake in the tradition of divot stomping. Several women teeter on stilettos while attempting to stomp down patches of grass torn up by the horses’ hooves.

I’m at the International Polo Club in Wellington in The Palm Beaches, Florida, and here—in the Coco Polo Lounge—the price of admission is worth every penny. The Pavilion Champagne Brunch, held on Sundays during polo season, is an elaborate affair that includes everything from lobster tail to oysters on the half shell, along with prime views of the match.

There’s also the occasional B-list celebrity and MVP polo player, not to mention a Veuve Clicquot bar, crème brulée stand and DJ. That’s because here in the lounge, it’s as much about seeing and being seen as it is about guys with mallets galloping around on horses.

After the match, with a new appreciation for both the sport of polo and the sport of socializing, I head back to the swanky Eau Palm Beach Resort & Spa in Palm Beach proper—an island known for its celebrity residents and multimillion-dollar mansions —connected to the mainland by three drawbridges. As my driver Roy points out, “It’s the only known area where there have been Bentley-on-Bentley accidents reported.”

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The county, however, is known as The Palm Beaches, made up of 39 cities, towns and villages stretching along the coast from Boca Raton in the south to Jupiter in the north. While each has its own distinct personality, there’s one common thread: this is no longer “Heaven’s waiting room.”

On the island, there are only 9,000 year-round residents, but they have an average net worth of US$23 million, according to Leslie Driver, who runs Island Living Tours. Of those residents, 31 are billionaires. “We are fuelled by hedge-fund money, Wall Street money, and our age has dropped radically,” she says. “You’ll see it in the juicing bars, yoga [studios], even the stores on Worth Avenue have changed for this new demographic.”

Along South Ocean Drive are homes of the rich and famous, including Trump’s lavish Mara-Lago estate, built in 1927 by cereal-company heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post. Nearby is a beach house owned by rocker Rod Stewart, or, as Driver calls him, Palm Beach’s favourite celebrity: “He’s at Starbucks twice a day, stands in line like a regular guy, talks to anybody. He’s always humming.”

While there’s still old money here, self-made entrepreneurs are moving in, changing the demographic. Indeed, Eau Palm Beach hosts “tap takeovers,” showcasing local craft beer at its al fresco Breeze Ocean Kitchen. There’s tableside margarita service and refillable growlers you can take to the pool. Even the Forbes five-

PREVIOUS PAGE: Lounging by the pool at Boca Raton Resort Club. THIS SPREAD FROM LEFT: The palatial entrance of the Boca Raton Resort Club; riding out the chukka at the International Polo Club Palm Beach; the upscale shopping and dining district of Worth Avenue; enticing small plates at the Swank Table event; sitting down for Swank Table field-side.

star Eau Spa has a distinctly youthful vibe. Forget detoxing: this adult playground offers a “self-centred” water garden for “me” time, along with champagne, couture cupcakes and South Beach tunes.

Historic Worth Avenue is changing, too.

John F. Kennedy used to frequent Ta-boo, a bistro that opened in 1941, “with or without his mistresses,” says Marianna Abbate, president of the Luxury PR Group, during a guided walking tour. His stylish wife Jackie was a fan of local designer/socialite Lilly Pulitzer’s iconic print shift dresses—and a Lilly Pulitzer location is set to open on Worth Avenue later this year.

This historic strip, lined with high-end retailers, features Palm Beach’s iconic Mediterranean-modern architecture, with colourful awnings, tiled staircases and wrought-iron balconies. Charming side alleys, known as vias, open into hidden courtyards, dripping with bougainvillea.

Top luxury brands are still here, but smaller boutiques are moving in, featuring independent or lesser-known designers, such as luxury resort wear brand Socapri (its only location outside of Italy) and Via Capri, 34, a line of handmade Caprese sandals.

Just a few years ago, you could “bowl down Worth Avenue” during the off-season, says Abbate. Now it’s becoming a year-round destination, a trend that’s

likely to continue with the advent of Brightline, the new high-speed train connecting West Palm Beach with Miami, Fort Lauderdale and, later this year, Orlando.

Boca Raton is changing, too, and overcoming its reputation as a retirement community. This is reflected in recent changes to the historic Boca Raton Resort & Club, a Waldorf Astoria property that opened in 1926 and now includes five hotels, 13 restaurants, two 18-hole golf courses, seven swimming pools, a full-service marina and a halfmile stretch of private beach over 356 acres.

While the iconic pink hotel inspired by Spain’s Alhambra Palace retains its old-school glamour, the focus here is on “barefoot luxury.” Regular activations appeal to a younger demographic, such as pop-ups and pop-ins, like SUP lessons with Hampton-based Paddle Diva, a nitrogen margarita bar or full-moon yoga with a live DJ. There’s a FlowRider surf simulator, poolside reggae on Sundays and Paws in Paradise, where four-legged friends can paddleboard with their owner.

While The Palm Beaches remains all about ultraluxury, the newer, younger demographic has a sense of contemporary playfulness that makes the destination worth rediscovering.

PALM BEACH FOODIE It’s Saturday night, and I’m dressed up for a night on the town… or, rather, the farm. At the end of a dirt road in the middle of nowhere, I arrive at Swank Farms, with 20 acres of hydroponic and organic produce.

In the middle of it all is a handbuilt outdoor pole barn, strung with twinkling lights. A woman is crooning into a microphone, while guests sip handcrafted cocktails adorned with wildflowers.

This is one of the exclusive al-fresco dinners held November through May at Swank Farms, featuring master chefs using local ingredients. Tonight, chef Sean Brasel of Miami’s Meat Market is serving up a five-course meal using the veggies grown right beside us. It’s part of the growing foodie scene in The Palm Beaches, highlighting fresh, local ingredients.

In West Palm Beach, the tomato pie is a highlight at The Regional Kitchen & Public House, helmed by Executive Chef Lindsay Autry, a Top Chef alum and 2018 James Beard Award semifinalist. In fun and funky Delray Beach, head to happy hour at Salt 7 for inventive cocktails and duck fat fries.

And in Jupiter, check out the newly opened 1000 North, backed by the likes of Michael Jordan, Ernie Els and Rickie Fowler. swankspecialtyproduce.com; eatregional.com; salt7.com; 1000north.com June/July 2018 boldmagazine.ca

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[ GLOBETROTTER ]

Photo by Xxxxx

BOLD STYLE

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A RO U N D T H E WO R L D W I T H S I N G E R - S O N GW R I T E R ( a n d , n o w, m o v i e s t a r )

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Aloe Blacc

n the new Imax film America’s Musical Journey, now playing at Montreal’s Science Centre, host Aloe Blacc takes viewers to the home of Louis Armstrong, to Motown Studios and to Seattle’s Pike Place Market, considered to be the birthplace of grunge. Best known until now for his vocals on “Wake Me Up,” a megahit for Avicii, the Swedish DJ and producer who passed away earlier this year, and for his own 2010 hit “I Need a Dollar,” Blacc proves to be an affable guide to the breeding grounds of some of the most seminal sounds on the planet. The singer-songwriter takes us along to New Orleans, Chicago, Nashville, Miami and New York to explore the roots of American music. But Blacc’s yearning to see the world is not restricted to the 50 states of the union. “Brooklyn in the Summer,” released this spring, is the first single off a new album expected later this year.

Where in the world have you felt happiest?

I feel happiest In Los Angeles, where I’ve made my home and where my family is. I’m a Southern California native, so I have made a lot of good memories in L.A. To get away from it all, I go to...

Australia, where I can relax, shut off the phone and just be with family. My wife, Maya Jupiter, was raised there and we have a place near the beach for vacations.

Which is your favourite hotel and why?

The Steigenberger Hotel in Frankfurt, Germany. It’s extremely private, with amazing rooms and the most ornate breakfast buffet I’ve ever experienced.

Confession time: name one thing you’ve taken from a hotel.

I’ve never done anything crazy, but I really appreciate good quality soaps and lotion and like to have them at home. So if a hotel has one that I like, I’ll bring it home and ask Maya to look up the brand to see the ingredients and buy some.

What’s the one thing you pack for every trip?

My electric shaver. That way I can choose to have three-day stubble or a fresh clean shave, depending on how I feel. You never know when you might get invited to an imperative event that you have to clean up for.

Who is your favourite travelling companion?

Maya is the best travel companion because she will find the most interesting attractions for us to visit and activities to do. My dad is pretty cool, too. I bring him around every now and again; it’s nice to have him with me to hang out and spend time together so he can experience what I’m up to.

Who is the most interesting person you’ve met on your travels?

President Obama is definitely one of a few interesting people. I also quite enjoyed meeting Richard Branson and also the Dalai Lama.

What inspires you to keep exploring?

Exploring helps me with my creative development as an artist. I’m always inspired by the places I visit and the people I meet.

“You never know when you might get invited to an imperative event that you have to clean up for”

What’s your essential item for making travel more comfortable?

Definitely a Do Not Disturb sign. While there isn’t anything specific I bring with me to make a trip more comfortable, I think bringing a really good carry-on suitcase makes all the difference in the world. That way, you know you’ll be able to fit everything and don’t need to worry about waiting at baggage claim.

What’s your guilty pleasure while travelling?

Definitely trash TV! I don’t watch TV at home often so I find myself watching all the mind-numbing reality shows that cable has to offer.

Which is your road most travelled?

Most people would be surprised to hear that it isn’t NYC, but I’d say it is L.A. to Berlin. I had early success there with my hit song “I Need a Dollar” and it has become like a home away from home.

What would be your trip of a lifetime?

Spending a few months exploring all the wonders of the world with Maya and our kids.

I lost my heart in…

Paris, France. It’s a magical city and I really enjoy my visits to perform, record or just hang out.

Which travel experience most changed your worldview and why?

Traveling to Ghana and visiting the rural areas, as well as the metropolitan city of Accra, because I got to see people that live directly from the land and who struggle to get by, in contrast with the people in a big, bustling city, trying to live the modern life. It gave me a deeper appreciation for the quality of life I live in the United States.

Tell us about a time when you got lost or otherwise knocked off course.

I was working for a big corporation after university and got laid off. I wasn’t sure whether I wanted to find another job, go back to school or focus on music. I inevitably chose music, and it worked out being the right choice. That said, there was a time when things weren’t picking up and I thought maybe I should cut my losses and get a more traditional job, but I stuck with my gut and things turned around and I’m extremely grateful.

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BOLD STYLE [ FOR HER ]

Inspired by

PALÁCIO BELMONTE

Flower earrings in gold, $283, Annie Costello Brown (anniecostellobrown.com)

Mikado dress, Fuzzy print, $3,400, Marni (marni.com)

Serpenti Forever bag, $3,500, Nicholas Kirkwood (farfetch.com)

Eggplant Creme nail polish, $15.95, bkind (bkind.ca)

Star Bracelet Magical Woodlands Collection, 18k white gold, blue sapphires and diamonds (4.52cts.) $44,000, Mindham Fine Jewellery (midham.com)

Floral Eau de Parfum 50ml, $92, Coach (thebay.com)

The mood: MODERN ROYALTY

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his spectacular Lisbon property dates back to 1449, and every inch reflects the foundation of nobility that dominates contemporary Portuguese culture and design. Iconic 18th-century blue-and-white tiles line the walls, grand chandeliers hang in the ballroom, and framed photographs and maps dot the walls and ancient arches of the eclectic café. The Palacio’s Cultural Club celebrates music, contemporary art and history, while the blossoming organic garden and black marble pool offer both elegant views and an uncommon respite overlooking the Tagus River. Each glamorous suite—many with private terraces—tells a distinct style story, with ornate bird cages, antique lamps, beautiful woven rugs and original frescoes. And even the spare but exquisite Leopold restaurant weaves a narrative that brings together old and new, celebrating the culinary traditions of Portugal through a highly modern lens. Within the walls of this ancient palace, feel like modern royalty as you celebrate a full spectrum of Lisbon’s cultural legacy. —SARAH TRELEAVEN

101 Ointment Multi-Balm Coconutter, $19, Lano (sephora.com)

Tsubaki™ Swirl Two-Part Gel & Cream Moisturizer, $28.50, Boscia (sephora.com)

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Ballet pump in Silver tone “Dior Baby - D” “Mary Jane,” $1,300, Dior available in boutiques

Organic Facial Scrub, $49, Idoine (idoinebio.com)

A spring/summer 2018 catwalk look, Azalea dress, $6,050, Mary Katrantzou (marykatrantzou.com)

Candy bling red raspberry lip gloss, $34, Marc Jacobs Beauty (sephora.com)

BOLD STYLE [ FOR HIM ]

Inspired by

PALÁCIO TANGARÁ

The mood: URBAN SANCTUARY

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Runway shot, Bustle s/s 2018 collection by George Pimentel

Psychedelic floral print swim shorts, $68, Ben Sherman (ben-sherman.ca) Gold plated sunglasses, $675, Cutler and Gross (cutlerandgross.com) Smart luggage with power generating wheels “ESCAPE,” $1,050, Rollogo (rollogo.com) MW60 Wireless over-ear headphones, $599, Master & Dynamic (baybloorradio.com) Bleu de CHANEL Parfum, 100ml, $163, CHANEL (holtrenfrew.com) Leather sandals, $380, Officine Générale (officinegenerale.com)

Pro-Collagen Marine Cream 30ml, $80, ELEMIS (elemis.com) The Renewal Oil, 1oz, $305, La Mer (shop.nordstrom.com) Runway shot from spring/ summer 2018 collection, Bustle (bustleclothing.com) All-leather weekender “Douglas,” $1,650, WANT LES ESSENTIELS (wantlesessentiels.com) I.N.O.X. Professional Diver watch, $675, Victorinox (swissarmy.com)

n Burle Marx Park, in the centre of vibrant São Paulo, this spectacular palace hotel blends the best of both worlds: Close proximity to the heart of a vertical urban jungle and a total immersion in decompressing natural surroundings. Nominated by global luxury travel network Virtuoso as one of the top best hotels for design, Palácio Tangará is the perfect place to absorb São Paulo’s chic, tropical vibe. Purify mind and body at the Flora Spa by Sisley with a phytoaromatic body treatment, or luxuriate with a freshsqueezed juice around an outdoor pool surrounded by lush greenery. When the sun begins to set, enjoy a glass of wine from the hotel’s extensive cellar before moving on to fresh seafood or a prime cut of beef at the one-Michelin-star Tangará Jean-Georges, from world-renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Then, end your evening with a nightcap at the Parque Lounge and Terrace, or head out to experience Brazil’s legendary nightlife. —ST

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EXTRAORDINARY STORIES WELL TRAVELLED

“Travel is a great way to experience things you normally

wouldn’t in your everyday life — you learn so much and the real adventure lives in that” Stephanie Sterjovski DIGITAL & LIFESTYLE INFLUENCER

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ultural exploration. Limitless adventure. Joyful discovery. Those of you who love to travel, to go beyond your borders (yet, at the same time, go deeper into your own backyard), you are a true traveller and these words are a part of your language. And for true travellers, the need to feed your wanderlust is a part of who you are. Taking in the sights, then going further–the history, the locals, the traditions, immersing yourself in the who, what, why and how of where you are, in the moment. A moment that will last a lifetime in your memories. The tastes, the smells, the sounds of where you are fuel the passion for discovery of a new destination, or a more meaningful rediscovery of a timeless favourite place, somewhere you’ll return again and again. We have a name for these travellers– we call them Avioners ®.

One of these Avioners is Stephanie Sterjovski, digital influencer and founder of the SS LIfe + Style blog, where she shares her stylish take on fashion, design, travel and more with her followers–and her husband.

“Travel is a large part of what we feel our calling is,” says Stephanie. Being an Avioner, she adds, has made it easy for the couple to explore places they have on their where-to-next list, since an RBC Avion card allows cardholders to travel where they want, when they want without flight restrictions or blackout periods. “Seeing the world inspires us, gives us energy and teaches us a lot about perspective.”

We asked Stephanie to share with us how she feeds her need for travel through, as she puts it, “seeking out beauty in all aspects” of a new destination, through authentic experiences, culinary pursuits and simple moments for both you and your travelling companion– and how you can, too.

Some travellers prefer to explore and experience cultural and culinary traditions. But sometimes time is of the essence. Where does one start when visiting somewhere totally new?

Stephanie Sterjovski: “I love immersing myself in the daily life to take in a cultural environment– roaming around to discover food, shops, art, and where locals would typically spend their time. I also love sightseeing and going to big, historical places.” When in Rome, Stephanie wanted to see the Vatican and the Colosseum. With a travel plan and Avion, including redeeming your points for flights and hotels, you can feel stress-free when you arrive, and free to visit some of the world’s greatest wonders–making memories and the most of precious time. “Food, too, is a great way to experience a culture, you can learn so much about their way of life and their traditions just by how they prepare their meals.” During her Mediterranean cruise, Stephanie strolled through the village of Sorrento, “buying cherries off a local street vendor and walking around letting my eyes feast on the culture. Sometimes simple moments like that help me understand the culture a lot more than the typical tourist stops.”

Many people travel with their partner, or friends and family. But, everyone has different interests, from shopping to museums. Any tips on how to keep everyone engaged?

walking for hours exploring the daily life, cafes, shops, restaurants, beaches....” With all the travel tools available to Avioners, such as the ability to redeem points for vacation packages, and car rentals, it’s easy to strike the right balance. Look for a guided tour in an area of your destination that combines both history and shopping, suggests Stephanie. “We usually do the more adventurous stuff the first few days, something he wants to do, and then wind down with more relaxing things (my specialty).”

Authentic experiences are an important element of travel now. How can travellers take some of that authenticity home as a memento of their travels?

Stephanie Sterjovski: “I love buying things for our home that remind me of places we have visited. Local, street artisan souvenirs (supporting them always feels great, too!) and I collect rosaries (I have one from almost every place I’ve been to). I’ve collected some really pretty hats, jewellery, straw bags and shoes.” While in Italy, for example, Stephanie found quality leather sandals in the local bazaars. Buying local, looking for things like wood, beads, straw, leather or other natural textiles that are native to the place can make beautiful reminders of where you’ve been.

Stephanie Sterjovski: “Travelling with a partner who has other interests is all about compromise.

My husband likes helicopter rides, while I love

About to take-off on a trip? Keep us posted and show us how you feed your need to travel using #Avioning Avioners Can Do That.

Plaza de la Revolución by Adam Grzesiczak

BOLD Partnerships

EXTRAORDINARY EXPERIENCES

FEED THE NEED TO TRAVEL: Discover the people, places and experiences that make a trip unforgettable. with

A 1930’s car travelling through the Plaza de la Revolución, Cuba.

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INTO THE NEW

BOLD Partnerships

THIS SPREAD FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Hanging out in front of the Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski La Habana; some spices Grenada is famous for; the Alcázar Colón Museum in Santo Domingo.

A

n intrepid traveller knows that in this world, there are still plenty of paths less travelled, destinations yet to be discovered by tourists.

How do we satiate our wanderlust and feed the need to travel and seek out the unknown? Of course, we’re not suggesting going to extremes. It’s more about easing into the undiscovered and using the experts to help us get there. Destinations in familiar places, such as the Caribbean, still have plenty of places that demand a closer look. Travel rewards programs can help you do that. Take the RBC Visa Infinite Avion card, for example, as your guide to exploring the unknown: it brings the world in focus, and makes it even easier to just go.

Take the renaissance of some of the Caribbean’s most interesting colonial cities–yes, we’re suggesting adding a city stop to some of

your favourite, easy-to-get-to beach destinations: If you’re a music lover or looking for history that reveals a pre-cold war glamour, Havana, Cuba, is that place.

For Spanish colonial architecture and soaking up the sun in a cafe where the coffee is roasted in house, head to Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic. And, if you prefer a slice of life where English and French colonialism meet, add a little spice to your travels with a visit to St. George, Grenada.

BOLD Partnerships

In Havana, we feed the need to In Santo Domingo, we feed the travel for… throwback glamour, need to travel for… colonial architecture and café culture music and dance There’s a reason Havana has been immortalized in song, in script and on the screen (think the “Copacabana”, Ernest Hemingway, “Our Man in Havana” and “The Buena Vista Social Club”). In the post-war/pre-cold war/pre-revolutionary era of the last century, Havana was the hotspot. Music, a mash-up of Afro-Jazz, tinged with Spanish undertones gave way to Salsa dancing - all the rage with the monied set and Hollywood glitterati. You can still take lessons today at some of the dance schools, or just spend a few nights observing and partaking with the joyful locals–all of whom seem to know how to dance–in some of the famous nightclubs in the capital.

This is a place where some of the world has yet to visit–and now is the time, before an influx of travellers changes this favoured Canadian getaway forever.

A stroll along the city’s malecón, or promenade, which hugs the sea, is a perfect people-watching spot. The breeze is light and constant, straight off the crystal blue of the Caribbean.

In town, vintage cars drive the avenues while local artists are setting up shop in colonial buildings long abandoned by the revolution. Cocktail culture is strong here, and suits the sunny climes: Daiquiris–a favourite of Mr. Hemingway–and the everpopular and refreshing Mojito, are always on the menu at hip and happening bars and hotels, with alcohol, or without. Take your pick! Cuba libre, indeed.

An easy ramble up the cobblestones of the New World’s oldest boulevard leads to the Cathedral of Santa Maria la Menor, the America’s oldest cathedral. Still standing proudly, it was built in the first half of the 1500s in honour of St. Mary of the Incarnation. It is at once breathtakingly gothic and medieval and at the same time, regal. A cornerstone of colonial Santo Domingo, and at which the first cornerstone of the great explorer family Columbus, was placed by Diego, son of Christopher himself. The cathedral sits in the “Zona Colonial,” surrounded in a walled, fortress-like neighbourhood of architecture from the 1500s. Rumour has it that there may still be remains of Christopher buried deep in the cathedral. A mystique lingers more than 500 years later.

Not far is the Plaza de Espana, where the Alcazar de Colon palace throws its imposing gaze over the square. The palace was once home to Diego and his entourage, and where the Columbus family set up a makeshift court in the name of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella.

But en route, there are tiny counter-style cafes and colourful artists’ shops worth exploring. Roasting and sipping coffee are also artforms here; do not miss it if you enjoy a beautifully balanced brew. It’s as intoxicating as the music that wafts over the air from these little hot spots, where daily life can be observed and friendly conversation can take place with locals.

Walk the footsteps of Columbus, and once on the Plaza de Espana, take a seat at one of the many cafes and bars that line this grey-and-white-paved outdoor meeting place, soak up a little sunshine and take in the scene.

In St. George, we feed the need to travel for… Old World charm meets Caribbean spice The combination of French sophistication and English ingenuity have helped maintain its original city boundaries, where both the Catholic Church, built in 1818, and the Anglican Church, built in 1825, still stand as monuments to human endeavour. Unique, fish-scale patterned roofs decorate houses, and much of the original Georgian architecture has been maintained or lovingly restored. It is a seamless mix of picturesque Caribbean with the allure of the Old World. The city stretches its arms out to sea, welcoming seafaring visitors while hugging the coast with its sparkling horseshoe-shaped harbour, said to be one of the most beautiful in all of the West Indies. Divers will delight in the underwater sculpture park, where you can swim among the art and the marine life. Foodies will revel in the variety of spices and chocolate. It’s the sweet life.

Want to feed your need to travel? As an AVIONER® you can do that. Discover how an RBC Avion card Spices photo by Josefine Granding Larsson

makes it easier to explore the places you’ve always wanted to go – or revisit a culture that’s made a difference in your life.

rbc.com/avion

Perfect Peruana

While peruvian cuisine has gone haute cuisine all around the world, SARAH TRELEAVEN finds that the wonders of Lima’s top chefs are rivalled by the country’s classic dishes

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One noon,

after

I lingered over a $200 tasting menu in a pretty yellow 300-year-old hacienda in San Isidro, one of Lima’s swankiest neighbourhoods. The young staff at Casa Moreyra worked quietly and efficiently, and I watched a floor manager swiftly reject two spotless plates as a new table was being set. This was a new venture by chef Gastón Acurio, one of the world’s greatest ambassadors for Peruvian cuisine, and the vibe was similar to many of his restaurants across South America: chic and exclusive, with a kitchen sufficiently exposed that you could hear the commands being issued.

The intent of the meal was to evocatively capture the experience of a Peruvian childhood I did not actually have—the most literal Proustian meal I’ve ever been served. Each dish was presented with an explanation that didn’t always make sense: “This is a reminder of a dish that our mothers used to make but we didn’t appreciate.” Another was meant to bring to mind trips made to the beach after school, while another was a tribute to a certain type of avocado that was slowly being destroyed by modern agriculture’s monoculture. But the impact was nevertheless highly impressive: a series of small plates combining unlikely flavours like sugar candy with anchovies, red peppers with olive meringue, sea urchin and apple ceviche, and asparagus with caviar.

Restaurants like this are now popping up across Lima, a city finding a way forward and emerging from a stubborn reputation as both dangerous and unappealing. The Shining Path guerrillas have receded and greater prosperity has arrived for many Peruvians. The culinary scene has been essential to the lifting fog. Peruvian food has become both popular and revered all over the world—including London, New York City, Hong Kong and throughout South America—and now Lima itself is having its own boom, with boundary-pushing upscale restaurants popping up in increasingly manicured neighbourhoods.

At La Mar, well-heeled locals with quilted Chanel bags snack on leche de tigre mixed seafood ceviche. IK showcases some of the

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country’s finest ingredients, from plump langoustines to tender river fish—all against the elegant backdrop of a two-storey living wall. Bravo Restobar is the brainchild of boyish celebrity chef Christian Bravo, who experiments heavily with local offerings, like spicy alpaca ribs.

But Lima, like all of the world’s best food cities, offers a spectrum of experiences, from high to low.

And so, a day after my superb and very expensive tasting menu at Casa Moreyra, I found myself meeting with a guide named Cesar, who was committed to showing me the less glamorous, but nevertheless essential, big five of Peruvian cuisine: antecucho, ceviche, picarones, arroz con leche and the Pisco Sour.

Cesar and I met in Barranco, a nexus of the young, hip and middle class, with an enviable waterside location, to wander and sample in this vibrant cobblestoned neighbourhood.

I confessed to Cesar that I had already tried the Pisco Sour—the sweet and tart concoction of clear Pisco liqueur, lemon juice and icing sugar—on my own, multiple times, since my arrival. So Cesar guided me towards Ti Mario (Uncle Mario) for antecuchos— marinated and grilled cow hearts served on a skewer.

OPENING SPREAD: A butler enters the lounge at Lima’s Hotel B, which also serves as a gallery. THIS SPREAD FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: A selection of ceviche for tasting at Casa Moreyra; Lima’s the perfect place to explore a fusion of Japanese nigiri and traditional Peruvian flavours; freshly caught fish; chef Gastón Acurio, one of the world’s greatest ambassadors for Peruvian cuisine, chats up some potato farmers. THE FOLLOWING SPREAD: A selection of fresh seafood on display at La Mar Cebichería.

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They were slightly chewy and very firm, a little spicy and intensely meaty. Cesar and I made small talk about quinoa (really), and then I asked him about how people are coping with increasing prices. Quinoa is now double the price of chicken, he reported, but, for those who can afford it, there are “300 to 400 per cent more restaurants” in Lima than 10 years ago.

We moved onto ceviche at Picos, where we took a seat on the patio next to fire pyramids and listened to a soundtrack of mostly Depeche Mode until our order arrived. Picos’ sea bass ceviche has fish cured in lime, accompanied by diced onions, bell peppers and cayenne. The dish was simple but complex, with an immediate burst of tart, salty and spicy complementing the seabass’ soft flesh. The role of ceviche in Peruvian cuisine can’t be underestimated; it serves as a cornerstone and has traditionally been consumed by mid-afternoon in order to take maximum advantage of the freshness of an earlymorning catch. But in the summer months, Cesar told me, locals now liked to go out late to eat ceviche and salsa dance (not at the same time).

At Acantilado de Barranco, a cliffside spot overlooking a private beach, expensive new seaside apartment complexes and a private marina, we tried the first phase of dessert: picarones. Several Peruvians mentioned to me, more excitedly than casually, that there are more than 2,500 types of potatoes in the country, and starches play a prominent role even in sweet dishes. Picarones are little donuts made with sweet potatoes, pumpkin, flour and sugar, and topped with syrup made of sugarcane, cinnamon and cloves.

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THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A sea urchin makes the perfect ingredient; one of the rooms at Museo Mario Testino, celebrating one of Peru’s creative exports; Hotel B’s rooftop provides great city views; a stroll through Lima’s Museum of Modern Art; photos and artwork create delight in Hotel B’s lounge.

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ESSENTIAL LIMA Stay The Belmond Miraflores Park is a lovely five-star property in the swish Miraflores neighbourhood.

Perched on the edge of a dramatic cliff plunging to the beach—with a particularly spectacular view from the rooftop pool—the hotel is surrounded by parkland and lots of dining options. For those looking for something a little more boutique, Barranco’s intimate Hotel B is housed in a beautifully renovated colonial building and the rooms have an airy, designforward feel. The hotel’s lounge is a great place to relax into a club chair and sip Pisco Sours. belmond.com; hotelb.pe

Shop

They look like chubby little onion rings, and they’re completely delectable: crispy and soft, with a hint of spice.

Our last stop was a little stand on wheels, but licensed by the city, where a woman wearing a long white coat was serving up arroz con leche, a pleasant and creamy rice pudding topped with grated cinnamon. I was full, as I had been since shortly after arriving in Lima days before, but I took a seat on a nearby wall and soldiered through the pudding, a pleasing mush that, in its own way, invoked the sweet and gooey confections of childhood. Cesar beamed at me as I enjoyed the dish, proud of a food culture he referred to as “the culinary capital of the Americas.”

When we finished near Barranco’s central square, Plaza des Armes, it was late but the streets were bustling. Nearby, grand colonial haciendas were being reclaimed as boutique hotels, high-end apartment buildings and stores selling scarves knit from the softest baby alpaca hair. Small crowds of students and young families, couples leaning into each other as they walked to and from restaurants or stopping to window shop, surrounded us. For most, Gastón Acurio’s Casa Moreyra, along with the ventures of many other celebrity chefs, would be out of reach. But despite the Starbucks and the Pinkberry, Peruvians across a spectrum appear content to embrace their own cuisine: more ceviche, more potatoes, more of everything now being proudly dispersed across the globe.

The Inca Market is your best bet for souvenirs, including silver jewelry, leather goods and handicrafts. If you’re looking for something a little more local, try any number of Peruvian design shops. Kuna sells soft babyalpaca items, like cozy scarves and sweaters. Michelle Belau designs a full range of floral and feminine clothing. Dédalo Arte y Artesanía is perfect for browsing; the sprawling shop sells work by a collection of Peruvian artisans, including everything from felted purses to ceramic housewares. kunastores.com; michellebelau. com; dedaloarte.blogspot.ca

See When you’re not eating and shopping, hit MAC (Museo de Arte Contemporáneo), Lima’s contemporary art museum, and MATE Museo Mario Testino, an impressive collection of the Peruvian fashion photographer’s work. maclima.pe; mate.pe

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Daydreaming

in the New World

IN

BUSTLING SANTO DOMINGO, WAHEEDA HARRIS EXPERIENCES FLASHBACKS TO WHEN THE COLÓN (AKA COLUMBUS) FAMILY PRESIDED OVER THESE VERY STREETS

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OPENING SPREAD: Inside Santo Domingo’s Alcázar de Colón Museum. THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Interior of the neoclassical National Palace, designed by Italian architect Guido D’Alessandro; the Alcázar de Colón Museum at night; a soldier guards the Faro de Colón, Santo Domingo’s impressive cathedral.

More than 500 years later, I’m walking across the expansive Plaza de España in downtown Santo Domingo, the shouts of souvenir sellers and the excited chatter of students on a field trip leading me to the entrance of the historic Alcazar de Colón, his former home.

My arrival is without the pomp and circumstance of a 16th-century representative of the Spanish court, but on my first visit to the first Spanish capital of the New World, I’ll visit buildings and ruins that are the lasting legacy of La Familia Colón, aka Columbus Family.

Cristobal (better known in English as Christopher), who first landed here in 1492, Bartolome, his brother who founded Santo Domingo in 1498, and Diego, Cristobal’s son, who arrived in 1509 to rule in the name of the king and oversee the spread of Spanish rule in the New World. Spanish colonialism started here, and its lasting effects of how they shaped our times has made the Colón Family contentious figures in world history.

While the Dominican Republic is best known for its beaches, its capital, Santo Domingo, is the largest city in the Caribbean, bigger than Port-au-Prince, San Juan or Havana. And the modern city has

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all the restaurants, clubs, boutiques and vitality a visitor could want for a sophisticated urban holiday. But during my wanderings around its streets, I find my imagination is as taken by the city’s past as in its present. Governor Colón, often depicted with a sharp-edged suit of armour, remains a figure as intriguing as he is controversial.

Located in the heart of the Ciudad Colonial of Santo Domingo, the Alcazar de Colón is the oldest viceroy residence of the Americas. The former 50-room mansion is now a museum, with the lifestyle of the 1500s on display: delicately carved furniture, massive tapestries, portrait paintings by European artists and mannequins sporting the elaborate clothing of the period. I can imagine the lengthy meals held in the ornate dining room, Colón and his family sipping the wines brought from the Old World, as their residence became the starting point that led to the birthplace of many firsts in the Americas.

Santo Domingo’s Ciudad Colonial, contained within five square kilometres, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1990. Completed in 1505, the Fortaleza Ozama is the city’s fortress, built to defend the city from the sea, and the oldest military construction of European origin in the Americas. The battlements where soldiers

Photos courtesy of the Dominican Republic Tourism Board.

IN

1508, DIEGO COLÓN WAS PROCLAIMED GOVERNOR OF THE INDIES BY FERDINAND II OF ARAGÓN AND SET OFF WITH HIS ENTOURAGE OF FAMILY AND SPANISH COURTIERS TO THE ISLAND OF HISPANIOLA.

would have lined up with their rifles ready to battle the enemy for Governor Colon are now a place for tourists to snap selfies in front of the Homage Tower.

My next stop is the Puerta de San Diego, the former main entrance gate of the city, attached to the original wall that surrounded the city, the first fortified city of the Americas. Explorers Ponce de León and Vasco Núñez de Balboa passed through this gate, hoping, like Cristobal Colón, to make discoveries in the name of the king. I’m sure these adventurers were just as eager to find a place to relax as I am when I find myself a seat at one of the popular outdoor cafés for a cold libation, which are mainly populated by tourists during the day and reclaimed by young locals in the evening.

Up the hill from the Plaza de España is a simple two-storey building, originally opened in 1511.

Within was the Real Audiencia, the first royal court of the New World, which oversaw all of the Spanish colonies. This is where Colón governed Spain’s conquests, which then included what is now Jamaica, Cuba and Puerto Rico, and disciplined those who didn’t follow the rules with death sentences. The Museo de la Casas Reales has occupied this building since 1973, when it was restored to its 16th-century style, a museum dedicated to the history of Hispaniola and Spanish colonialism. In its high-ceiling rooms, Colon and subsequent colonial officials would have written their documents of law and passed swift judgement. Centuries later I’m left to wonder June/July 2018 boldmagazine.ca

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A statue in honour of Fray Antรณn de Montesinos, who preached against the enslavement and harsh treatment of the Indigenous peoples of the island.

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SANTO DOMINGO ESSENTIALS

Stay

how much of the present—how the city looks and functions, how its citizens think of their relationship to the city, their country, to their colonial past—has been shaped by their decisions.

Despite Santo Domingo’s population of more than 2.2 million, the historic district is intimate and pedestrian-friendly. I try to picture Colón and his wife, Doña María (a cousin of Ferdinand II), promenading the new streets of Santo Domingo in the tropical heat and humidity. The power couple probably created their own Spanish court at their newly constructed residence, granting entrance to those titled families who arrived from Spain, offering stories and news from the homeland. The Colon Family wanted the quick transformation of Santo Domingo into a city that mirrored their Spanish homeland and established a cathedral, university and hospital, all firsts in the Americas.

Spain, of course, is where Diego Colón’s life ended, after he was recalled back to Spain for not obeying orders. Cristobal Colón is officially buried in Seville’s Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See in Spain, but it’s said he wanted to be laid to rest in the New World. In Santo Domingo, locals believe Doña María Colón’s influence resulted in Cristobal’s and Diego’s bones being returned to the island and interred in the crypt at the Basilica Cathedral of Santa Maria la Menor.

Visitors are left to contemplate whether that’s true, and on the legacy of the Colóns, whose influence continues in the Dominican Republic—and across the Americas—more than 500 years later.

Since 1956, El Embajador: A Royal Hideaway Hotel has been a social centre for the city’s A-listers and Hollywood stars, playing a leading role in The Godfather II and hosting runway shows by Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera and Elie Saab. Now sporting a contemporary style with historic accents, thanks to a recently-completed renovation, each floor displays oversized photographs of the city’s firsts in its hallways. barcelo.com

Eat Colourful Jalao is a contemporary Dominican restaurant in the Ciudad Colonial featuring modern art and traditional kites on the wall, live music and a menu with tasty Dominican home-style options such as ceviche morir soñando (shrimp marinated in orange juice, milk and cane sugar), bombones de yuca (croquettes with cheese and cassava) or grillada jalao (grilled creole blood sausages and pork with plantain). jalao.do

Do Visit the Faro a Colón (Lighthouse to Columbus), opened in 1992 to honour the 500th anniversary of Colón’s arrival on Hispaniola.

Within the 10-storey concrete structure is a museum, and also a mausoleum, where some believe the remains of Cristobal Colón are held. godominicanrepublic.com June/July 2018 boldmagazine.ca

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View of the Arno River from Ponte Vecchio.

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Fortuna, Firenze In the birthplace of the Renaissance, DOUG O’NEILL discovers a people who take the idea of good fortune as seriously as they take their food, art and architecture

Photos by Michelle Lee

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PREVIOUS SPREAD: The Arno River flows gracefully through the heart of Florence. THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The head of a Medici lion on display at the Loggia dei Lanzi; the bell in Giotto’s Campanile; the Gioconda Royal Suite at the St. Regis; Florence’s cathedral remains one of the world’s architectural icons; a sculpture of Menelaus holding Patroclus; the city seen from Giotto’s Bell Tower; an espresso cup; it’s always a good time for gelato.

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Being party to

marital discord on the

They say a wise man doesn’t challenge a strong-willed Florentine woman. I, clearly, was not wise. I told Signora B. my own good-luck story, involving Il Porcellino, the little pig of Florence, a bronze statue of a wild boar which sits outside the 16th-century market of Loggia del Mercato Nuovo. By tossing a coin into the boar’s mouth and rubbing its snout or belly, visitors are rewarded with good luck, often in the form of a return visit. My own belly-rubbing gesture two decades earlier not only rewarded me with this second visit, but also, I believed, helped me retrieve a lost passport.

“So, my good friend,” she said slowly as if talking to a confused child, “you’re here again in Firenze because you rubbed the belly of a boar—and not because you simply bought a plane ticket?”

And thus the two of them debated loudly until our train pulled into Stazione di Santa Maria Novella, where I wished my new friends buongiorno.

Snippets of the debate replayed themselves as I navigated once more Florence’s narrow medieval streets. I revelled in the good fortune of my return visit as I gazed up at the red-tiled cupola of the iconic Duomo and ambled across Piazza della Signoria to ogle yet again at the statue of David. After a full afternoon that included Fra Beato Angelici’s frescoes inside the Museo di San Marco, I sat at an outdoor café at the edge of Piazza della Republica and basked in the city’s charms.

There’s something ethereal about the main square of Florence as the afternoon sun fizzles and casts its buttery glow onto the earth-brown tones of the medieval buildings. I was glad to be back.

My thoughts turned to the doubtful Signora Bianchi the following morning when I revisited “The Bridge That Wouldn’t Die,” which is how many Florentines describe Ponte Vecchio, the famous medieval arched stone bridge that spans the Arno. Of the thousands of bridges bombed to smithereens during the Second World War, Ponte Vecchio was the only one spared. Some believe it was a matter of essere baciato dalla fortuna—that it was kissed by good fortune. Just saying.

The artful lures of Florence, like the

train from Rome to Florence

was not my intention.

But I found myself to be the cause of a rift between my train compartment companions, true Florentines, freely and loudly vented passions at each other, ignited by my seemingly innocent question, one that had been brewing in my thoughts since my first visit to Florence 20 years earlier.

My theory, really just a conversational gambit, went like this: “Are Florentines more so than others motivated by the quest for good luck? Would you say there are more good-luck customs in Florence than in most other Italian cities?”

Signor Bianchi, sensing a kindred spirit, smiled: “Of course, it’s our affinity for luck that brings us happiness. It’s in the small things, like touching iron, that brings us la fortuna, as we say, and love. And remember,” he continued, turning to his wife, “what my nona used to say about touching the hump of a hunchback for good luck?”

Signora Bianchi’s eye-rolling confirmed they were not of two minds: “E basta. What nonsense. That’s silly superstition. Finiscila!”

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FLORENCE ESSENTIALS

Stay The Westin Excelsior is Renaissance palace outside, contemporary chic inside. Enjoy 360-degree views at the SE•STO on Arno rooftop restaurant, while dining on lime-infused scallops, Barbary duck and spaghetti with clams. westinflorence.com At the St. Regis Florence, on-site Restaurant Winter Garden by Caino has one Michelin star. stregisflorence.com

THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Dropping by for afternoon tea at the St. Regis; Florence Cathedral is the largest brick dome ever constructed; the living room of the Signature Suite of the Portrait Firenze Hotel.

refurbished Uffizi Museum, still held me in their clutches. But I was also taken by the new face of the city, which included the ultra-modern Opera di Firenze, a huge, tilted cube of Tuscan marble, terracotta and gold. In the culinary scene that once favoured (almost exclusively) traditional Tuscan food, I scrolled through menus highlighting sushi and dim sum as well as lamb dishes from Abruzzo. I was smitten with the bohemian Le Murate Caffè Letterario bar in the Santa Croce neighbourhood. First a monastery and then a prison, it’s now a literary café popular with artsy types and the Florentine version of hipsters (without the plaid).

I’d heard whispers about the burgeoning hotel dining scene so I saved my final night for the SE•STO on Arno, the elegant rooftop restaurant at the Westin Excelsior. I’d just ordered a glass of Tuscan dry white when a large group, celebrating a birthday, invited me to join them. Florentine hospitality. Magnifico! As the evening of shared stories, plump gnocchi and copious amounts of vino drew to an end, Giuseppe, the birthday boy, thanked me profusely for joining his party.

“My cousin cancelled at the last minute. Without you at our table, we would have been 13. Such an unlucky situation that would have been!

Buongiorno e grazie.”

Before leaving Florence I paid one more visit to Il Porcellino. Rubbing his belly 20 years ago had led to this return visit. Who knows, perhaps I’ll be third-time lucky.

All the rooms at Portrait Firenze feature vintage celebrity photographs.

The Michelin-starred Borgo San Jacopo restaurant serves risotto with cabbage pecorino and truffle or seawatercooked lamb. lungarnocollection.com

Eat Trattoria Cammillo, located in the Oltrarno neighbourhood on the other side of the Arno River, has operated as a family-run restaurant since 1945. Must-order-dish: traditional peasant soup called ribollita.

Gelato is integral to any Florence visit. Vivoli Gelateria artigianale has been making it since 1930. Recommended flavour: tangerine.

Note: Always look for a gelateria that describes itself as “artigianale,” which means the gelato is homemade with fresh natural ingredients, no artificial colouring and no preservatives. vivoli.it June/July 2018 boldmagazine.ca

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WHY WE TRAVEL

HIGH WATER

MARKS W

hether it’s an ocean, lake, river or lagoon, when we find ourselves gazing out on a large body of water, we sense the potential adventures the world can offer us. In this roundup of eight dreamy destinations, including several stellar over-water properties, LIZ FLEMING makes sure that the sound, or rush, is never far from your holiday experience

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Luang Prabang, Laos Just a 10-minutes drive from Luang Prabang, you’ll discover an idyllic, virtually untouched forest with a river and a waterfall. There, the Rosewood Luang Prabang Resort’s 22 spacious waterfront accommodation give guests a chance to commune with nature in open-air showers and tubs and on wrap-around decks. The blend of Lao tradition and French colonial style informs the interior design and the architecture makes for pure enchantment. rosewoodhotels.com NESTLED IN NATURE: The former capital of the kingdom of Laos, Luang Prabang’s historic buildings are remarkably well preserved. The Green Jungle Park Hoikhua Waterfall opened in 2015, making it easy to experience cultural shows, local products, zip-lining and elephant rides.

The view at the Rosewood Luang Prabang Resort.

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Huahine, French Polynesia

Xxxxx

You might think that the luxurious Royal Huahine Resort, located in one of the most stunning spots in all of French Polynesia, would come with a price tag to keep you awake all night. Surprisingly, the 18 garden bungalows, 11 beach bungalows and 11 stunning, over-water bungalows are a beach bargain. From sumptuous king-sized beds, you can enjoy all the modern amenities of your airconditioned luxury suite, and never take a step over your vacation budget limit. royalpolynesiahotel.com THE ISLAND WAY OF LIFE: Of the many gorgeous destinations of French Polynesia, these two islands are where it’s most possible to live like a local. The villages are quaint and the pace of life is rejuvenatingly slow.

Park Hyatt, St. Kitts If your work-weary soul is aching for the solace of sandy beaches and crystal clear water, what you need is an island that is virtually untouched. On Banana Bay, you’ll find the one-of-a-kind Park Hyatt St. Kitts, which just opened last year. The 126-room property overlooks The Narrows, a majestic strait separating St. Kitts and its volcanic sister-island, Nevis.

A DEEPER DIVE: The Park Hyatt St. Kitts offers five immersive island excursions that have been curated to acquaint guests with the nation’s multi-layered history through walks with historians, rainforest excursions or visits to UNESCO sites. hyatt.com

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Chiquibul National Park, Belize

The limestone hills and valleys of the 13,000-acre Noj Kaax Meen Elijio Panti National Park are filled with acres of jungle, steep ravines, spectacular waterfalls, wild rivers and rare and endangered flora and fauna. But that’s just the tip of Belize’s iceberg. Less than an hour away, visitors can explore the Mountain Pine Ridge inside the 264,000-acre Chiquibul National Park and Caracol Archaeological Reserve.

JUNGLE SANCTUARY: Adventurous travellers can hang their hats at the Blancaneaux Lodge, once the private jungle hideaway of film director Francis Ford Coppola. Open to the public since 1993, the 20-room lodge dominates the shores of Privassion Creek. thefamilycoppolahideaways.com

Lago Petén Itzá, Guatemala

Looking for an eco-friendly lodge in a fascinating historical setting? You’ll find it at the Las Lagunas Boutique Hotel. Its 19 welcoming over-water bungalow suites are surrounded by Mayan ruins in a lush natural setting. Jaguars, ocelots and monkeys might be found in the surrounding jungle. laslagunashotel.com TRIPPING IN TIKAL: Although the Guatemalan government has been investing in tourism infrastructure in the area around Lago Petén Itzá, the Mayan ruins here, including Tikal, have lost none of their romance and mystery. Las Lagunas sits on the edge of a private reserve of more than 200 acres.

Roatán, Honduras For those who live to dive and snorkel, the CoCo View Resort is engineered to make your visit a complete pleasure. With 16 spectacular rooms housed in picturesque duplex bungalows, there’s the undeniable romance of an over-water setting, combined with the convenience of at-your-door diving amenities. cocoviewresort.com REEF LIFE: The largest of Honduras’ three Bay Islands, Roatán is the closest to the Mesoamerican Reef, the second largest in the world, after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. Although the natural wonder remains at risk from climate change, recent conservation efforts have notably improved its health.

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Dreaming of getting up-close-and-personal with the natural world? The Galรกpagos Islands deserves a spot on your must-see list. Home to one of the most diverse collections of wildlife on the planet, this group of more than 120 islands and islets was where scientist Charles Darwin formed many of the ideas in his book, On the Origin of Species. Today, nature lovers from around the world visit to see giant tortoises, albatrosses, short-feathered penguins, marine iguanas, sea lions, frigate birds and more.

EXPLORE BY BOAT: Metropolitan Touring, one of the oldest tour operators in the Galรกpagos has recently refurbished its Yacht Isabela II. Journeys begin at Santa Cruz Island or Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, depending on the itinerary. metropolitan-touring.com

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Photo by Michael R Perry

Galรกpagos Islands, Ecuador

Neuchâtel photo courtesy of the Swiss Tourism Board.

Monruz, Switzerland When you think of Switzerland, ski chalets might immediately come to mind. But Hotel Palafitte, on beautiful Lake Neuchâtel in the country’s Three Lakes Region, features ultra-luxurious bungalows built on stilts. Europe’s sole over-water accommodation, Hotel Palafitte offers not only jaw-dropping views of one of the most spectacular lakes but also outrageously luxurious amenities. Opulent lakeside rooms offer unobstructed views of the water from every vantage point, even from the bathtubs. palafitte.ch FANTASY ON SCREEN: Nearby Neuchâtel is the capital of the canton, and has an exceptionally charming Old Town, even by Swiss standards. Every summer the city hosts an International Fantastic Film Festival, screening fantasy films and related genres. nifff.ch June/July 2018 boldmagazine.ca

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LUXURY DESTINATION WEDDINGS & HONEYMOONS

WINTER ISSUE 2018-2019

Exploring the Windy City’s diverse neighbourhoods, from the Gold Coast to Magnificent Mile, is key to discovering what makes Chicago tick. (Please, don’t call it Chi-town.) Doug O’Neill helps you prepare for the perfect blend of sophisticated culture and Midwestern hospitality S TAY Panoramic views and posh rooms are the stuff of Chicago hotels

E AT

DRINK

Deep dish pizza is a must, but so are the award-winning eateries

Chicago mixologists think outside the glass

SEE & DO Impressionists, improv, innovative theatre and more

our insider’s

guide to Chicago skyline photo by Thomas Hawk.

CHICAGO

INSIDER’S GUIDE TO CHICAGO

S TAY

Panoramic views & posh rooms are the stuff of Chicago hotels ROOMS WITH A VIEW OR TWO Bedding down for the night in a Mies van der Rohe building is part of The Langham allure. Rooms offer panoramic views of Lake Michigan and the Chicago River and there’s that 20-metre swimming pool. From US$383. langhamhotels.com BOOK-LOVER’S DREAM Staying in the Author Suite on the 46th floor of the Four Seasons Chicago means you have the hotel’s extensive literary collection all to yourself. The award-winning Allium Restaurant & Bar promises fine lobster nachos and a Chicago Dog “with house-made everything.” From US$358. fourseasons.com/Chicago PORTABLE VIP Through the Keys to the City program, guests at the Peninsula Chicago get special access to VIP lounges in the city, personal tours of the Michelin-starred Grace Restaurant and are fast-tracked through museums and gallery lineups. From US$535. chicago.peninsula.com EVERYTHING OLD IS NEW AGAIN Thanks to a $100-million renovation, the 434-room RitzCarlton Chicago has swapped its traditional design for a more modern vibe. Great views of the pier from the Rooftop at Torali bar or from a treadmill in the fitness centre. From US$329. ritzcarlton.com MAKE IT A SPA DAY After a day spent touring the Windy City, spoil yourself with the Waldorf Cleanse in the spa at the Waldorf Astoria Chicago. Well-appointed rooms on the northwest corner of the hotel overlook the iconic Gold Coast neighbourhood.

From US$375. waldorfastoriachicagohotel.com

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OPENING PAGE: Xxxx ON THIS PAGE: Xxxx

E AT

Deep dish pizza is a must, but so are the award-winning eateries ON THIS PAGE: Xxxxx

OH, FOR THE LOVE OF GOAT! Top Chef winner Stephanie Izard, who’s behind a trio of successful Chicago restaurants, serves up sophisticated takes on traditional diner food at Little Goat Diner. The Goat Almighty Burger includes pickled jalapenos and piri piri. Her other two restaurants are Girl & The Goat and Duck Duck Goat. stephanieizard.com FROM A SOW’S EAR James Beard award-winner Jimmy Bannos, owner of The Purple Pig, has a thing for pork.

Try the pork saltimbocca with prosciutto and honey or the sweet and crunchy pig’s ears. thepurplepigchicago.com MICHELIN-STARRED DINING Chicagoans who’ve patronized Grant Achatz’s three-Michelin-starred Alinea now line up for the chef’s themed tasting menu at his latest eatery, Next. Insider tip: The prix-fixe menu costs less on weeknights. nextrestaurant.com NO-FRILLS THRILLS BYOB. Minimalist setting. No coat check. The cooks at Michael Carlson’s 26-seat Schwa Restaurant serve your food. The menu changes every six weeks, but almost always includes the popular parsnip custard with candied sweetbreads. Book ahead. schwarestaurant.com THE ART OF DONUT-MAKING How about a Whiskey Caramel Old Fashioned with Pecans? The Doughnut Vault specializes in artisanal donuts at its two locations (North Franklin and North Canal). doughnutvault.com PREVIOUS PAGE: Chicago’s skyline reflected in the Cloud Gate sculpture

by Sir Anish Kapoor. THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The lobby of the Waldorf Astoria Chicago; dining at The Peninsula Chicago; the crunchy pig’s ear with fried egg by Haas and Haas; mille-feuille with caviar

by Allen Hemberger; the terrace of Doughnut Vault; the lobby of the Langham Chicago.

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INSIDER’S GUIDE TO CHICAGO

DRINK

Chicago mixologists think outside the glass A CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE WITH THAT COCKTAIL? Gin-infused cocktails rule at the Victorian-style Scofflaw Bar in Logan Square. Complimentary chocolate chip cookies are served at midnight. scofflawchicago.com CREATIVE COCKTAILS IN FULTON MARKET If you’re thirsty and peckish in Fulton Market, The Aviary serves a five- or seven-course cocktail-and-food tasting menu that should satisfy both needs. Try the Scots Pine, a blend of yuzu citrus juice, elderflower and tequila. theaviary.com BEHIND THE FAÇADE The James Beard award-winning Violet Hour Bar is dedicated to artisanal cocktails. Consider the Eeyore Requiem: campari, vermouth, Beefeater gin, Cynar, Fernet Branca and orange bitters. No cell phone use inside the lounge. theviolethour.com WHEN THE SUN GOES DOWN Enjoy the sunset, drink-in-hand, at the Signature Lounge at the 96 th where a sprig of rosemary packs a wallop in the apple-spiced martini. signatureroom.com

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THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The interior of Violet Hour; a selection of cocktails from Scofflaw Bar; Carbon & Carbide Building (now Hard Rock Hotel Chicago); the essential Chicago Architecture Foundation River Cruise; the Jay Pritzker Music Pavilion; Chicago’s famed elevated trains; mixing the Juliet & Romeo cocktail at the Violet Hour.

SEE & DO

Impressionists, improv, innovative theatre & more THE RIGHT CRUISE Riverboat cruises are plentiful. However, Chicago Architecture Foundation’s tours are led by specially trained docents who are well-versed in the architectural wonders along the Chicago River. architecture.org/experience-ca HEIGHTS OF FANCY Catching the view from the Skydeck atop the 412-metre Willis Tower is a rite of passage for firsttime visitors to Chicago. Insider tip: arrive just before dusk to glimpse the cityscape at night. theskydeck.com THEY’RE FUNNY THAT WAY Tina Fey and Steve Carell crafted their improv at the Second City Comedy Club in Chicago. For great sketch comedy, book tickets for Mondays at 8pm or weekends at 4pm. secondcity.com GET YOUR GAME ON Wrigley Field encapsulates more than 100 years of baseball history. Remember that tours held on gamedays do not include a Club House visit. mlb.com/cubs/ballpark/tours PLAN YOUR ART ATTACK! The Art Institute of Chicago is mammoth. If strapped for time, head directly to the Impressionist galleries.

Expect fewer lineups at lunchtime and early afternoon. artic.edu NOW FOR SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT The Neo-Futurists have been performing fast-clipped experimental theatre since 1988. In their Too Much Light Makes the Baby Go Blind, the troupe performs 30 plays in 60 minutes. Oh, and your ticket price is determined by a throw of the dice. neofuturists.or June/July 2018 boldmagazine.ca

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TRAVEL INTEL Our tips and tricks to navigating the world

Over-the-Top Airports

MAKING A BIGGER SPLASH

DON’T KILL TIME—BRING IT TO LIFE

Munich’s Flughafen München Franz Josef Strauß welcomes travellers with a mind-bending seasonal lineup of entertainment that ranges from a full-on Oktoberfest Hall to a gingerbread-filled traditional Christmas market, to an indoor learn-to-surf wave pool. But Munich hasn’t cornered the market on entertainment. At Singapore’s Changi Airport, travel-weary passengers can slip into a bikini, head for the rooftop pool deck, and loll by the palm trees. Longing for a breath of fresh air?

You’ll find that nature comes right into the terminal at Kuala Lumpur International Airport, where a living rainforest in the heart of a busy terminal creates a natural space to unwind.

The best airports can make time disappear. On Osaka Bay, Japan’s Kansai International Airport, passengers can grab a seat and enjoy heartpounding views of incoming and outgoing flights from its unique Sky View observation deck. It’s like trainspotting—just a whole lot more exciting.

At Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport, one of the busiest in Europe, you can improve your mind at a free outpost of the world-famous Rijksmuseum, then dive into a library filled with 1,200 books translated into 29 languages

by Dutch writers. You’ll find e-books and music by Dutch artists that can be downloaded to a laptop or mobile device—all at no fee. Kinda makes you hope for a longer layover….

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Illustration by Laura García

If you think airports are nothing but departure lounges and fast food outlets, it’s time to let your imagination take flight. Airports around the world offer features so enticing, they might make you want to miss that next connection

FIT TO FLY Keep your fitness goals on track at the airport and work out all the kinks and cramps that result from not springing for a business class seat. These airports have your heart health in mind: Dallas/Fort Worth Airport has both a LiveWell indoor walking path that stretches for a healthy seven-tenths of a mile and a free yoga studio.

The G-Force Health Club in the Dubai Airport is open 24/7 and offers workout facilities, private showers, steam rooms, saunas, Jacuzzis and both Swedish and shiatsu massages.

At the Detroit Metropolitan Wayne County Airport, you can use the airport gym and rent shorts, shoes and a T-shirt from the adjacent Westin Hotel.

If you have a layover at Switzerland’s Zurich Airport, you can rent bikes, inline skates and Nordic walking poles in the airport for hiking in the surrounding countryside.

Baltimore-Washington International Airport offers Roam Fitness, a full-service workout centre, complete with rental clothing, shoes, showers and even healthy post-workout food.

The Kempinski Hotel Fit & Fly Spa in the Munich Airport not only has a 17-metre long pool and 130 square metres of workout equipment, but also personal trainers, professional physiotherapists and massage therapists.

The Fairmont Vancouver Airport Hotel Fitness Facility has treadmills, elliptical trainers, bicycles, rowing machines and weight machines. For $18, you can use the gym, pool, shower and towel service and for $10 more, rent Fairmont FitClothing, an assortment of Reebok attire.

DIY AIRPORT WORKOUT No fitness facilities to be found in the airport you’re in? Look for any bit of empty floor space and do three to five rounds of this workout circuit: one-minute sets of lunges, chair dips, pushups and squats. Be sure to give yourself a one-minute rest between each set and two minutes between rounds.

BOLD QUERY WHAT ABOUT MY SERVICE DOG? We were all fascinated by the recent controversy surrounding the traveller whose service animal—a large peacock—was turned away from a United flight. You probably aren’t packing a peacock, but how do you know if your service animal is allowed to accompany you?

Every airline has its particular set of guidelines, rules and restrictions, so do your research before arriving at the airport. You may only need to provide “credible verbal assurance” that your pet is a service animal, but if questioned, you might also require a Registered Certificate Identification card, written documentation, specific harnesses or tags.

Even more important is the need to check that the destination you’re bound for will accept your pet. You need to arrange all necessary travel documentation, and required health certificates for all the countries you’ll be visiting, before you fly.

Wondering where to start? The consulate or embassy of each country can provide you with all the information you’ll need on import and export regulations, vaccination and documentation requirements.

89 PER CENT

Experts tell us that the benefits of travel are almost instantaneous. Even after just a day or two of holiday time in a new place, 89 per cent of people report a significant drop in stress.

WHAT WOULD YOU NEVER TRAVEL WITHOUT? We asked our favourite frequent flyers to tell us what they’d never leave home without:

Great headphones and a hot playlist on Spotify. Plug in and tune out the rest of the plane.

At least two pens. You know the guy next to you will never have one when it comes time to fill out the customs forms.

Travel insurance. Boring, we know, but vital if you fall off your surfboard, break a leg in Australia and need to get home.

Q-tips. For some reason, these staples of the North American drugstore are rare and precious creatures in other countries.

A notebook. Save your phone battery by keeping a small notebook handy to write down addresses, restaurant names and directions to that great beach.

First-aid kit. Stocked with bandages, painkillers, nausea and diarrhea remedies, cold and flu meds and a good anti-itch cream, this could be a lifesaver.

Chargers for all your devices. Too late and you forgot? Ask at the hotel. Guests often forget their chargers when they check out and many front desks have a box full of them.

DEALS AT THE DUTY FREE?

We all wander through the airport duty free shop wondering the same thing: “Are there bargains?” Definitely not.

Before you buy, do a bit of research or use the free airport WiFi to check prices as you shop. Electronics aren’t usually a good choice (you’ll find much better deals online), and leather goods, sunglasses, cosmetics, jewelry and perfumes aren’t big bargains either. The one advantage you might find is that some cosmetic companies offer appealing travel sizes or combination compacts you won’t find elsewhere.

Where you will save money is on items that are normally burdened with heavy “sin taxes” like liquor and tobacco. Those items are definitely cheaper at the duty free shop but beware—you could find even better deals at your holiday destination.

Either way, before you buy, be sure to check your customs limitations for the return trip.

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Stay Connected

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INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS

BY CARLSON WAGONLIT TRAVEL

DISPATCHES FROM CWT INSIDERS: THE NEW, THE COOL AND THE EXPERIENCES WE CAN’T STOP TALKING ABOUT. Photos by Clare Mulvale

BOLD Traveller Promotion in partnership with

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BOLD Partnerships

ELEVATING YOUR TRIP FROM THE ORDINARY TO THE EXTRAORDINARY Technology makes it easy to book travel yourself–but why would you? A great travel advisor is your number one travel essential–your personal travel expert. A CARLSON WAGONLIT TRAVEL Advisor will elevate every trip from the ordinary to the extraordinary.

We asked our outstanding team of CWT Travel Advisors for their top three reasons to put Europe on your bucket list any time of the year!

WHAT ARE THREE MUST-VISIT REASONS TO PUT EUROPE ON YOUR BUCKET LIST THIS FALL? There are dozens of reasons to visit Europe, in every season. However, fall is a great time, as the crowds are thinner and many hotels and tour companies offer reduced prices to entice those of us who have more flexible schedules.

This will make a massive difference, say, if you’ve been yearning to tick off visiting Venice from your bucket list. Standing in St. Mark’s Square on a sunny fall day in late September versus hot and sticky late July is a far more pleasant experience.

Reason #1.

Go to Venice, before Venice changes forever.

Ask your CWT Travel Advisor to tell you when is the best time to go, and in this case, not just for less crowded piazzas, but for safe water levels. Venice is sinking, after all.

Reason #2.

Greece never gets old, it just gets better.

There are new hotel developments, and not just on the islands. There’s the brilliant repositioning of the Acropolis museum as well as big dollar infusions from the likes of the Niarchos family, of the shipping magnate fame. The Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center has now been open for a year, housing the National Library of Greece and its ancient treasures, as well as the National Opera–all a beacon of the new wave in Athens.

Reason #3.

The food. We’re beyond spaghetti in Piazza Navona (wait, that’s still a good reason), but now agritourism, locavorism, chef- and learning-to-cook-centric itineraries abound from the top of Spain to the heel of Italy’s boot.

Consider it the new pilgrimage.

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BOLD Partnerships

Set Sail Your Way

BY LIZ FLEMING Whether you want to join two, three, four or even six thousand of your closest friends on one of the largest ocean cruise ships at sea-like sparkling, floating towns complete with restaurants, theatres, fitness centres, shopping and much more-or you’re longing to escape on a sleek schooner with just the captain for company, there’s a cruise that’s exactly right for you.

Cruises come in all lengths, styles and price points from cost-conscious to over-the-top-luxurious–and with itineraries that explore rivers, lakes, oceans and seas around the globe.

The questions are…how, when and where would you like to set sail?

1

Are you a foodie? The bigger the ocean cruise ship (from 200-6,000 guests), the more restaurant choices and the more luxurious the vessel, the more famous the chefs and cuisine aboard. River cruise ships also offer spectacular dining but their smaller size limits the number of restaurant choices.

2 3

Are you all about the view? River cruise ships rarely sail more than a mile from shore and most feature staterooms with expansive windows and balconies so you’ll never miss a thing!

Do you live for entertainment? The biggest ocean cruise ships have the most going on. Swim, play in a waterpark, ice skate, take cooking classes, ride bumper cars, try indoor skydiving and more. By night, bounce from casino to cabaret, symphony to art auction, dance club to jazz bar–there’s never a dull moment.

4

Love feeling like a local? Sleek river cruise ships can sail into ports too small for their ocean-going sisters. When you disembark for shore excursions, not only are you part of a far smaller group of travelers (from 89-200 guests per ship) but you’re also right in the heart of everything, with no need for any transportation but your feet.

WHY A TRAVEL ADVISOR MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE...

Of course, you can book your own holidays, but why not take advantage of the CWT Travel Advisor eager to offer expert advice to create a personalized itinerary? Let an expert match you with the right destination and venue, making sure that all your travel preferences are included.

What you want to experience on your vacation matters– relaxation, adventure, culture, family time–and you have your own, unique definition of what “relaxation” or “adventure” means.

A CWT Travel Advisor will talk you through every step of the planning process to determine your needs, and provide the best guidance and options.

Carlson Wagonlit Travel’s trusted, experienced travel advisors are part of full-service travel agencies specializing in group tours, ocean/river cruises, adventure escapes, exotic vacations and more. They work closely with trusted partners who have a proven track record of offering experiences people love, along with value-added, high-quality products and services.

The access CWT travel advisors enjoy, through their large network, means they can offer you exclusive offers and perks. In fact, if you’re an RBC Rewards member, you can use your points to book a trip through CWT and earn points–even when you redeem–exclusively with CWT.

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WORTH TRAVELLING FOR

THE MAGIC OF THE MYSTERIOUS y second feeling on stepping inside Mexico’s Iglesia de San Juan is one of frustration—no cameras are allowed. Drat. Because my first feeling is, “Holy cow.”

Located about 10 kilometres from the Chiapas state capital, San Cristóbal de las Casas, the highland town of San Juan Chamula is populated mostly by indigenous people who speak the Tzotzil language.

From the outside, the Iglesia de San Juan looks like a pretty, traditional colonial-era church, painted white with a colourful arched door frame.

But the men in black fur coats and cowboy hats standing guard suggest that this is no ordinary church or perhaps not even a “church” at all.

Inside, it’s like nothing I’ve experienced before. Though filled with statues of Roman Catholic saints, the religious practices taking place within its walls speak more to pre-Columbian beliefs. Each saint, I’m told, is analogous to a Mayan god, and each has a mirror on his or her chest in order to ward off evil.

On the altar, where a crucified Christ would typically be, is a statue of Saint John the Baptist. The nave has no pews, and is encircled by sturdy

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wooden tables, each covered with hundreds of candles that burn day and night. Hanging from the ceiling are swatches of fabric, which make the space feel more like a tent than a permanent structure. Scattered over the floor are pine branches, which fill the church with the sweet smell of a forest.

I watch individuals and families clear spots on the floor for their prayers, using wax to affix candles to the floor and ensuring that bottles of CocaCola and bottles of local moonshine are close at hand. They kneel and chant in the Tzotzil language, occasionally stopping to take a drink with the seriousness a Catholic might take a sip of wine from the chalice. My guide tells me that the gas from the cola clears out bad spirits, while the warming effects of the alcohol represent the power of the sun illuminating the body.

When their prayers are complete, attendants scrape the melted wax from the floor and re-cover it with branches. I have no idea what any of it means, but I do know this: it’s beautiful. —PAUL GALLANT

San Juan Chamula church photo by Casey Mirch.

M

San Juan Chamula, Chiapas, Mexico

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