Bold Issue #46 We live for Summer by BOLD Traveller Magazine

live summer for

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FEED THE NEED TO SHUCK with

ANY AIRLINE, ANY FLIGHT, ANY TIME. AVIONERS CAN DO THAT. ®

The Malpeque region of Prince Edward Island is best known for their salty seafood of the same name. No visit is complete without a taste of the fresh oysters caught right in the harbour. Try some today, on points! Start Avioning with 15,000 Welcome points upon approval.† To apply visit rbc.com/avion

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CONTENTS JULY/AUGUST 2018

In This Issue 42 EPICUREAN ISLAND

While P.E.I. is still a playland of pristine beaches and family fun, Anita Draycott discovers that its palate has become increasingly sophisticated

46 SENSUOUS SEVILLE

It’s not just the weather that’s hot in Spain’s most alluring city. Jared Mitchell comes face to face with the passion that courses through the heart of Andalusia

50 A WALK ABOVE THE CLOUDS

The Biosphère, in Montreal’s Parc JeanDrapeau, was built for Expo 67.

Photo by Gabriel Caparó

Why waste your breath getting to the best parts of British Columbia’s Cariboo Mountains when you zip straight to the highlights with a heli-hiking excursion? Doug O’Neill couldn’t refuse a chance to jump the queue

EXTRAORDINARY STORIES “Try something you have never tried before, and make sure you sample something local that you can’t have at home” Avioner® DIGITAL & LIFESTYLE INFLUENCER

MANDY FURNIS

FEED THE NEED TO TRAVEL with AND DISCOVER THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND EXPERIENCES THAT MAKE A TRIP UNFORGETTABLE. TURN TO PAGE 38 boldmagazine.ca

CONTENTS

JULY/AUGUST 2018

Also in This Issue 10 EDITOR’S NOTE 12 CONTRIBUTORS 15 DESIGN: The Scandi utopia that urban planners and architects are buzzing about

18 TRAVEL TWO WAYS: Portugal’s Sintra

36 THE BOLD BEAUTY LIST: Our editors’

13 essential picks

55 INSIDER’S GUIDE: Our little black book on where to stay, what to eat and what to do in Oslo 60 TRAVEL INTEL: Places you really can’t

and Algarve regions are a study in contrasts

visit, plus other news

20 STAY: Luxury bathrooms worth checking

66 WORTH TRAVELLING FOR: Moss

in for

Hotel at Iceland’s Blue Lagoon

22 WELLNESS: Seven rules for getting the most out of your spa treatments

24 FOOD DIARIES: The life of chef Tim

Schulte in photos

26 DINE: The best summertime recipes from some of the world’s best chefs 29 WEEKENDER: The walk that takes from Montreal’s past into its future 32 GLOBETROTTER: Daren A. Herbert, star of The Music Man at this year’s Stratford Festival, share his travel philosophies

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34 LOCAL EXPERT: Virginia Johnson, author of Travels Through the French Riviera, shares her insider information 35 INSPIRED BY… One & Only Palmilla

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Adventures of a lifetime They say that curiosity kills the cat, and that’s certainly what I felt the time I went on a walk around India’s Kullu Valley, in the Lower Himalayan mountain range, following footpath after footpath upwards and upwards until… oh… these are cow paths. It took me several hours to painstakingly descend back to civilization, all the time wondering if I’d have to overnight (or worse) at such a high altitude. Yet the views of valley’s stunning geography—seen from the steep mountainside pastureland I spent so much time trying to escape from—remain among my most lasting memories. Mostly, the curious cat finds an intriguing new flavour combination, a novel objet d’art to take home, a life-changing revelation, a heart-racing rush of excitement or the possibility of new friendships. Adventures take many forms: exploratory, culinary, spiritual, artistic, sensual, cultural, personal and romantic, just to name a few. In this, BOLD’s Adventures issue, we can’t guarantee the latter (this issue, for better or worse, is not a sequel to Eat, Pray, Love), but we do have leads on a range of enticing endeavours for all tastes. There’s the food trail in Canada’s smallest province (page 42), the epically Andalusian passions of Seville, Spain (page 46), and heli-hiking in British Columbia’s underappreciated Caribou Mountains (page 50). Whether undertaken by car, foot, helicopter, train or through our imaginations, we define adventure by what it does to us, its capacity to push us out of our comfort zone, more than by the activity itself. Not that we’re against ziplining or surfing down the side of a volcano. But an Uber ride to a hot new club in a previously run-down strip of downtown Los Angeles can be an equally thrilling experience. Doing just that on a recent trip to L.A., I met up with a friend who ran into a friend who was out on the town with a California senator. Between drink orders and soaking up the very hip underground-y vibe, I spent a chunk of the evening watching the politician sending and receiving messages from constituents and fellow legislators, even as the clock ticked into the wee hours. For him, it was another day’s work. For me, it was a fascinating study in U.S. democracy and the strange assortment of people a fantastic venue can bring together. The right kind of adventures are something that rewires our brains, and our cultures, for the better.

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Photo by Tishan Baldeo

Paul Gallant Executive Editor

EDITOR’S ITINERARY

MUST DO: The tiny artificial island of Mexcaltitán, located northwest of Santiago Ixcuintla, is a magical place where time has truly stopped. Designated a Historic Monuments Zone in 1986, Isla de Mexicaltitán Nayarit is known for its picturesque tile-roofed homes and narrow, tranquil streets. Getting to the island is an adventure on its own, beginning with a 15-minute boat ride. Come shrimping season, and you’ll see local fishermen on the water, hauling in their delicious catch for the local Mexcaltitán restaurants.

While travel planning can be the most fascinating part of your trip, it can also be the most daunting. Consider this your personal vacation hotline, with advice from our editors.

RIVIERA NAYARIT México WHY GO: Riviera Nayarit is a destination like no other. Its versatility and distinct appeal have translated into global recognition as Mexico’s Pacific Coast treasure. It exudes eclectic charm, from the resort town of Nuevo Vallarta to the historic village of San Blas, the celebrity haven of Punta de Mita, the surfing mecca of Sayulita and everything in between. There’s truly something for every type of traveller.

WORTH TRAVELLING FOR: If you’re looking for a groovy little beach town, head for Sayulita on the Pacific coast, about an hour north of Puerto Vallarta. With a population that’s a mix of local Mexican families, expats and eclectic gringos, this town offers a great alternative to a resortstyle vacation. Sayulita is a safe, friendly surf town and, if you’re a foodie, count your blessings. The abundant eateries in Sayulita will not disappoint. Hungry? Try Sayulita’s famous fish tacos and to-die-for coconut shrimp. A typical Sayulita day begins with locally grown and roasted coffee to sip as you watch shopkeepers sweep their entryways, fish market workers set out the day’s fresh catch for display and the vegetable truck rumble through cobblestone streets. The indigenous Huichol artisans set up their vendor stalls to work on and sell their colourful beadwork masterpieces, while children make their way to school. It seems the sun is always shining in Sayulita and it’s as warm as the casual and friendly atmosphere.

Photo by Oliver Sjöström

CONTRIBUTORS JULY/AUGUST 2018 ON THE COVER Taking a dip at Uluwatu, one of the world’s top surfing destinations, in Bali, Indonesia.

Marlon J. Moreno Publisher + Editorial Director Luis Chavez Associate Publisher, Special Projects Paul Gallant Executive Editor Liz Fleming Associate Editor, Digital Magda de la Torre Americas Editor CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Victoria Bass • Andrew Brudz • Anita Draycott Liz Fleming • Waheeda Harris • Matthew Hays Ruth J. Katz • Jared Mitchell • Doug O’Neill Cathy Riches • Sarah Treleaven ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN Laura García PHOTOGRAPHY Tishan Baldeo WEB DEVELOPER Rahul Nair

CATHY RICHES Writer

MATTHEW HAYS Writer

ANITA DRAYCOTT Writer

Matthew Hays is a Montrealbased author whose work has appeared in The Guardian, CBC.ca, The Globe and Mail, Cineaste and VICE. He teaches courses in film and communication studies at Concordia University and Marianopolis College.

Anita Draycott has been a Toronto-based travel journalist, editor and photographer for more than 25 years, specializing in golf, spas and food. She has lost count of the number of countries she has visited and has difficulty picking her favourite destination on the planet, but the Hawaiian island of Maui makes her top10 list.

BRIDGE TO MODERNITY Cathy Riches has been writing about music for what seems like centuries now. She has expanded her writing realms to include travel and food and, whenever possible, all three subjects, since they go so well together. As managing editor of Toronto magazine, her home city occupies a large part of her thoughts and heart.

TAKIN’ IT TO THE STREETS

EPICUREAN ISLAND

SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Juan Felipe Galán ADVERTISING & SALES United in Change Media Yvonne Xenidis Chief Revenue Officer 416.624.5496 yvonne@unitedinchange.com MEDIA SALES PARTNER Linda Angellotti 416.831.6069 linda@unitedinchage.com For Lifestyle and Co-Branded Partnerships, Promotions, Reprints and Sponsorships inquiries marlon@morenoco.com • luis@morenoco.com Phone: 1.416.323.7828 extension 25 PUBLIC RELATIONS AGENCY Jesson + Company jessonco.com info@jessonco.com 77 Bloor St. West, Suite 1200 Toronto, ON M5S 1M2 CORRESPONDENCE The Hudson Bay Centre 20 Bloor St. East, P.O. Box 75075 Toronto, ON M4W 3T3 BOLD ® is published bimonthly by Moreno & Company Inc. Opinions expressed in BOLD® are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers. BOLD® does not assume liability for content. All prices quoted are in rounded Canadian dollars, accurate at press time, unless otherwise noted. www.boldmagazine.ca

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INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS

Style MENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S EDITION

The Essential Reference for the Fashionable Traveller

SPRING 2019

AGENDA SEE. EXPERIENCE. HEAR. SHARE. GO.

Bridge to

MO DER NI TY

A SHORT DRIVE FROM COPENHAGEN, A UTOPIAN-MINDED WATERFRONT COMMUNITY HAS BECOME A MUST-SEE DESTINATION FOR DESIGN DEVOTEES

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AGENDA

[ DESIGN ] PREVIOUS PAGE: The Øresund bridge connects the Danish capital of Copenhagen to the Swedish city of Malmö. THIS SPREAD FROM LEFT: The Calatrava-designed Turning Torso tower makes it easy to find your way around Bo01; looking down on Sweden’s City of Tomorrow.

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Photos by by Aline Lessner

s our car plunges under the sea on the trip between Copenhagen, Denmark, and Malmö, Sweden, I wonder what I’ve gotten myself into. The tunnel portion of the Øresund Bridge that connects the two countries (the title “character” in The Bridge, a Scandinavian detective series on Netflix) is about four kilometres long; the bridge itself is about eight. I’m pretty claustrophobic, so perhaps it’s better I hadn’t known about the tunnel beforehand. Fortunately, it’s wide and well-lit. After a few minutes we emerge from the engineering marvel to a spectacular view across the Øresund Strait. My friends and I are making the 45-minute trip to Malmö during our Copenhagen vacation because one of us, David Leinster, is a landscape architect who wanted to tour a renowned (in architecture circles) housing development on the city’s waterfront. For him, it’s a pilgrimage, as it is for many architects around the world. I figured I’d tag along, knowing little about the project except its odd name, Bo01, and that it’s admired for its sustainability and use of renewable energy. I don’t have expectations other than a vague picture in my mind of a practical, grey, government project. The first surprise is the Calatrava-designed Turning Torso tower, which anchors the neighbourhood. The slender, twisted 54-storey apartment building serves as a stylish way-finder for us as we navigated the numerous traffic circles, as it’s one of the only tall buildings in the area. Created as part of the European Housing Expo in 2001 to reclaim a rundown industrial port, Bo01, aka The City of Tomorrow, is a high-density housing area that feels spacious, natural and hip. Ponds, fountains, green roofs and winding planted pathways all contribute to the feeling of calm civility. “Unlike many other contemporary examples, this

SCANDI CENTRAL

neighbourhood is full of surprises,” Leinster tells us. “A small creek lined with decks and gardens, or a cozy courtyard with a rain garden and a bench to just sit and take it all in. There are nods to the past, a familiar roofline, a brightly painted front door, all wrapped in contemporary Swedish aesthetic.” Several architects were assigned different portions of the project and the result is a diversity of styles that work together amazingly well. My eyes never get bored as different shapes and colours present themselves around each corner. The Scandinavian design sensibility that I love so much is at work throughout the site: clean lines and contemporary low-rise townhomes fit together like puzzle pieces. As we stroll around the area, Leinster points out how the design of the quirky medieval-like street pattern effectively cuts the winds from the harbour, creating comfortable courtyards and gardens to stroll through and play in. As we emerge out onto the waterfront we’re greeted by spectacular views and lots of places to sit and catch some rays, including cool circular swimming platforms and wide steps that lead right down to the water, making it easy to launch a kayak or to take a dip. Even the benches along the waterfront promenade are designed to baffle the winds and make strolling more enjoyable. I imagine living just a few stylish steps from such a user-friendly waterfront. I leave with a huge bout of apartment envy, and a desire for the urban planners and politicians in my home city to become more visionary. —CATHY RICHES

Visitors can take a tour of Malmö’s Bo01 with a local resident. toursbylocals.com/ PrivateMalmoWestHarbourTour

You don’t have to cross the Øresund Bridge to see amazing Scandinavian design. Copenhagen is rich with it.

“Even the benches along the waterfront promenade are designed to baffle the winds and make strolling more enjoyable”

For fans of Scandinavian design, the Danish Museum of Design and Art should be high on your list. Contrasting with the historic former hospital that houses the collection, the museum is brimming with examples of modern furniture, clothing, art and objets. designmuseum.dk Copenhagen’s brand new street-food area, perched on the edge of the harbour, next to one of the bicycle superhighways that traverse the city, is more than just food. Committed to creativity and sustainability, food stalls and bars are situated in shipping containers, serving multiple areas for sitting, sunning and socializing. reffen.dk For a dose of both historic and modern architecture all in one go, visit The Royal Danish Library. The new Black Diamond annex is composed of two black-marble-clad cubes, joined to the 1906 original library by a bridge over the street. kb.dk

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AGENDA [ TRAVEL TWO WAYS ]

REGAL IN SINTRA SKIP THE COOKIE-CUTTER ITINERARIES. HERE, TWO DIFFERENT APPROACHES TO TWO OF PORTUGAL’S MOST FAMOUS REGIONS BY RUTH J. KATZ

TIVOLI PALÁCIO DE SETEAIS Arguably, the most popular day-trip destination from Lisbon, the town of Sintra represents one of Europe’s most splendid examples of whimsical and colourful Romantic architecture. Situated within the bucolic Parque de Sintra-Cascais, the landscape offers dense, forested mountains that give way to the rugged coastline; its hills are navigated by car along slender, coiled (sometimes heart-in-your-throat) roadways. A relatively small town, Sintra has more than its share of historic sites, monuments and palaces—from picture-perfect, opulent mansions to castles in near ruins. Not to mention, there is outstanding fine dining (think wonderfully fresh seafood) and shopping; while in the liquor emporia, look for white port, not found too often on this side of the Atlantic, and the even more rare—and new-to-the-marketplace—the splendidly rich rosé port. One palace not only worth visiting (the lush grounds are open to the public), but also worth staying in, is the Palácio de Seteais, a splendid estate that has been painstakingly restored to its former magnificence and stateliness. In fact, there is so much history to this palace that the Minor Hotel Group, the parent company of this Tivoli hotel, has a historian available to share the story and secrets of the palace. The opulent and ornate public spaces are dotted with frescoes, tapestries, sumptuous patterned carpets, prized antique furnishings and even a treasured piano, built more than 100 years ago by the renowned German master, Steingraeber & Söhne. It was constructed with gilt and inlays and owns pride of place in one of the imposing drawing rooms. You can feel like an 18th-century monarch yourself, by scheduling one of the hotel’s Dining by Design meals in a grand galleria, where you will be waited on by periodcostumed service staff, as a musician plies a harp. (There is even harp music at breakfast!) But there are two other places that are musts. Palácio da Pena is an example of Romantic architecture unrivaled in these environs; it looks as if Disney had decided to construct a few Magic Castles and cobble them together, painting them terra cotta, mustard and blush. Completed in the mid-19th century, the palace boasts a rich history and features eclectic suites and rooms, including highly Moorish décor and a surprisingly advanced cooking chamber. The other must-see is the Gothic-style National Palace, the best-preserved medieval Royal Palace in Portugal. It has been inhabited nearly continuously from the early 15th century to the late 19 th century. tivolihotels.com

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RUGGED IN THE ALGARVE

ANANTARA VILAMOURA It’s no wonder the Algarve is referred to as the Portuguese Riviera. With inviting, sandy beaches, majestic cliffs, arid, desert-like interior terrain, centuries of history, challenging golf courses and heady and hearty cuisine (bountiful seafood reigns), the local population of nearly half a million grows to 1.5 million in season. I settle in at the Anantara Vilamoura Hotel, a lush, sprawling, modern complex, awash with gorgeous tropical fauna and flora, adjacent to the verdant Arnold Palmerdesigned Dom Pedro golf course, where the Portuguese Open is staged. There is something for everyone: hot-air balloon rides that sail over orange groves and fields of cork trees (more plentiful here than just about anywhere in the world); tennis; biking; bird-watching; boating (this is home to Portugal’s largest marina and also of the Ria Formosa, snaking its way to the sea); wine-tastings, where you can savour some of Portugal’s unique grapes; and the hotel’s signature Spice Spoons Cooking Classes. For the classes, your chef-guide will start out at the renowned Mercado Loulé, established more than 100 years ago, to purchase supplies that include fish, spices, oils, chocolates, marzipan, herbed salts and mouth-watering baked goods. Take a Jeep expedition into the arid Algarve interior, where the dusty terrain is punctuated with fig, carob, kumquat, banana and lemon trees. Explore the wetlands of the Ria Formosa Natural Park via boat, and find fascinating and unique ecosystems among the nearby islets, where local fisherman harvest oysters, clams, shrimp, barnacles and fish. There are also three lighthouses in the area and you’ll likely spot myriads of exotic island creatures as they clamber around, on the way to the “forgotten” village island of Hangares (named for the airplane hangars that once serviced troops of the former residents, Portuguese Naval Aviation teams). Back at the hotel, satiate yourself on fresh seafood at Ria Restaurant, a traditional marisqueira, with its mountains of freshly-caught offerings. The hotel’s fine dining restaurant, Emo, atop the building, features not only majestic views, but also delicious, contemporary fare with a distinctly Portuguese flavour. The hotel’s award-winning spa is a veritable oasis, offering centuries-old Mediterranean therapies, timeless Turkish hammam rituals and exotic Asian treatments. vilamoura.anantara.com

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AGENDA [ STAY ]

Luxe loos

Six Senses Laamu, Maldives

Imagine lowering yourself into a glass-bottomed bathtub to watch fish swimming underneath as you bathe. The glass-floored commode room offers a similarly hypnotic view. sixsenses.com

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METRES OF ITALIAN MARBLE, TUBS LIKE PRIVATE LAGOONS, SHIMMERING CHROME, GLEAMING GLASS AND OVER-THE-TOP VIEWS. LIZ FLEMING SOAKS IN THE WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL HOTEL BATHROOMS

Southern Ocean Lodge, Kangaroo Island, Australia

Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur, California, U.S.A.

Bay Suite, Point Yamu by COMO, Phuket, Thailand

Affresco Suite, Il Salviatino, Florence, Italy

If the heated limestone floors in the giant open-concept bathroom of the Southern Ocean Lodge’s Osprey Pavilion aren’t enough to convince you that you’ve landed in the lap of luxury, the hand-sculpted granite tub will. southernoceanlodge.com.au

If you’ve always had a bit of an Alice-in-Wonderland complex, you can bathe in a teacup in the Bay Suite, at Point Yamu by COMO. More like a sculpture than a bathtub, surrounded by brilliant blue tiles and lit by globular pendant lights, the teacup tub is the ultimate place to steep. comohotels.com

Perched at the top of a 370-metre cliff, Post Ranch Inn’s ultra-glam Upper Pacific Suite invites you to celebrate the setting sun by lolling in an outdoor stainless steel hot tub or simmering in an indoor deep-soaking spa tub, before snuggling up to your wood burning fireplace. postranchinn.com

If a freestanding tub made of ancient Roman stone doesn’t impress you, look up as the bubbles rise around you. As you slip into the suds, you can bathe in the reflected glory of a fresco created in 1886 by famous Italian master Domenico Bruschi. salviatino.com boldmagazine.ca

AGENDA [ WELLNESS ]

7 RULES

…to get the best out of your spa time. Our tips for avoiding faux pas when all you want to do is recharge BY WAHEEDA HARRIS

spa visit is a worthy indulgence when planning a weekend or a week away. From hot spring pools in Chile to seaweed baths in Northern Ireland, there are many ways to benefit the body from local treatments after a day of exploration. No one spa is like another, so navigating a treatment can be tricky business. Here are seven rules, drawn from seven unique spa experiences, to help reduce your stress in the pursuit of feeling good.

Rule #1

Follow procedure. At Soak Seaweed Baths in Newcastle, Northern Ireland, they take their cues from Mother Nature, sourcing their treatment directly from the seashore outside their door. That means soaking away your cares in a bathtub filled with filtered and heated seawater and seaweed. Prior to treatment, each guest is told the steps: steam in the sauna chair to open pores before soaking in the seaweed-laden tub. A quick shower finishes the detoxification. Just remember that the side effect of becoming so relaxed can make it tough to get out of a seaweed-filled tub filled. soakseaweedbaths.com

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Rule #2

Rule #3

Listen to your elders.

Take all the time in the world.

The five-star Hotel Royal Chiao Hsi is located in the town of Jiaoxi, Yilan County, Taiwan, a secluded and restful place to indulge in the area’s abundant natural hot springs. Guests descend into the slate-tiled spa, with separate areas for women and men, to soak in two indoor pools or in the hotter outdoor pool, best experienced at night when guests can also stargaze. A side area has buckets with access to cooler water to cleanse and rinse post-soak. But check your modesty at the entrance, as the older ladies told me—no bathing suit allowed! slh.com

At Pink Sands Club on Canouan Island in St Vincent and the Grenadines, the Indonesianinspired spa retreat is found at the end of the beach. The citrus-scented wood building provides entrance to individual bungalows along the hillside, accessed by staircases and a funicular. Each guest begins their treatment with a foot soak, preparing the body and mind for the anticipated soothing indulgences. Island time determines the schedule. Leave your mobile phone and watch behind, and take pleasure in the minimum two to three hours of me time. mandarinoriental.com

Rule #6

Mother Nature sets the temperature. The lake district of Villarrica in central Chile is home to Termas Geométricas, an open-air spa, including 21 pools of geothermal water found in a small canyon. Wood walkways divide the pools, outdoor cool showers, changing rooms and black bathroom areas, while the steam creates its own diaphanous walls, momentarily concealing and revealing. Some pools offer shady areas, thanks to the lush, oversized plants found throughout the canyon. Look for the signs at each pool with the posted temperature, which range between 34 and 44 celsius. That’s a big spread—know your heat limits. termasgeometricas.cl

Rule #7

Take off the bling. The two-storey wellness hotspot at El Embajador Hotel’s Bi Wellness Spa in Santa Domingo, Dominican Republic, has an exclusive spa lounge where you can relax in the shade, dip into a plunge pool and enjoy a cocktail while looking out at the extensive gardens, right in the heart of the city. Consider a two-and-a-half-hour pampering ritual, which includes body scrub, facial and massage. But realize that getting a body scrub means the spa attendant will cleanse from head to toe (and everywhere in between). Stash all jewellery before you go. barcelo.com

Rule #4

Rule #5

No playing in the water.

Say yes to cold.

Arriving at the lowest land elevation on the planet, the Dead Sea in Israel, visitors can dip into the largest hypersaline lake in the world. Purchase mud from one of the shops found along the road and apply before getting into the water. Stepping into the sea is an odd sensation, as the water feels heavy, which makes floating easy, sinking below the sea surface impossible. Go slow. Consider wearing goggles and beware of splashes, as the salt water will burn when it comes into contact with eyes. touristisrael.com/dead-sea/289

Found within the Laurentian forest, not far from Quebec’s Mont Tremblant Ski Resort, Spa Scandinave operates yearround to help destress and detoxify. Guests are encouraged to follow the spa recommendations for hydrotherapy, by alternating hot baths and sauna with a cool dip or shower, then quiet moments in a lounge chair or hammock. Alternating temperatures increases circulation and releases endorphins, so don’t fear the cold plunge. scandinave.com

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AGENDA

[ FOOD DIARIES ]

Sehr gut! A

Lured to Vancouver by Bauhaus owner and former filmmaker Uwe Boll, German-trained TIM SCHULTE aims to make an impression on the Canadian food scene

fter Vancouver’s Bauhaus lost its founding executive chef, Stefan Hartmann, to the upscale food truck company Tacofino, owner Uwe Boll, who had a long career as a filmmaker before becoming a restaurateur, made a remarkable decision. Last year, Boll appointed co-executive chefs, asking David Mueller and Tim Schulte to share the position. Schulte, who grew up in a small German town outside Cologne, had worked at Bauhaus as a sous chef in 2015 and decided to give up his gig in Australia for the opportunity. “I kinda fell in love with this country when I was here three years ago and thought I’d love to come back,” says Schulte, who was awarded Best Chef of the Year in Germany in 2013. Just a year into his Bauhaus tenure, though, Schulte’s getting ready to take the restaurant’s concept, German-inspired global cuisine, to Toronto. The as-yet-unnamed Bauhaus spinoff is expected to open spring 2019. “I’ve never been to Toronto, but I am really excited about it. It’s way bigger, there’s more going on, it’s more multicultural and people are more open to new things.” —PAUL GALLANT

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4 1. This is me and two colleagues, Johannes, who is Swiss German, and Brody, who is from Australia. We’re very international—there’s not a lot of Canadians here. I can’t remember what we’re making. I’m pretty calm in the kitchen because I really got treated like shit for a long time back when I was younger. I was always telling myself, “I’m never going to treat people like that.” But sometimes I’m too chill and then I get hit in the face for that. 2. David Muller and I were made co-executive chefs last year. It can work well because we can rely on each other and not be worried if we take days off. We have each other’s back. Nowadays, a lot of head chefs burn out, but we can share our work. Sometimes it’s not easy to find the same approach,

but it works out. I think I’m a little bit more the creative one; it’s 6040 most of the time.

3. In Germany, white asparagus is a traditional ingredient in the springtime. We’ll usually serve a white asparagus soup, hot. But it was warm outside, so I reinvented the dish, turning it into a white asparagus mousse. Underneath there’s slightly blanched and marinated asparagus, and a cold, clear asparagus and ham broth. The idea is to mash the mousse into everything else to have a cold, crisp interpretation of a soup. 4. That’s a wild duck from here in British Columbia. One of our customers who comes in once a month to try some of our nice wines got it from a hunter and brought it in for me. I always make

sure we source our food from good farms, and I’m pretty sure this one had a good life, living wild in nature. We served it with lots of mushrooms.

5. That’s the chef Harald Wohlfahrt, who came from Germany to collaborate with us. [Wohlfahrt’s legendary restaurant, Schwarzwaldstube, maintained three Michelin stars for 25 years under his leadership.] He had recently retired and our owner had visited his restaurant, so he invited him to come over and he said yes. He was really unexpectedly relaxed and nice. We had a lot of fun with him. We did French cooking that night. He gave me advice about my future, that I really have to focus on my next two to three years to push my career.

6. Those are grasshoppers from my first trip to Thailand, sprayed with a chili-soy sauce. I’ve never cooked them myself but I’ve eaten them a lot. I was just in Mexico City, where they use a lot of bugs in their foods. I went to go to Pujol [ranked one of the world’s best restaurants]. The first few days were awkward— we didn’t know where to go and people didn’t speak English. But once we started using Uber, it was very nice.

For more information, visit bauhausrestaurant.com; for more pictures and visual stories, explore instagram.com/ bauhausrestaurant and instagram. com/timschultechef

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AGENDA [ DINE ]

GRILL SEEKERS

Warmer weather means the outdoors, the grill fired up, a refreshing cocktail in hand. Heat up and cool off with these barbecue and cocktail recipes from some of the continent’s hottest chefs BY ANDREW BRUDZ

TASTE OF CALIFORNIA NATE ROMO, private chef, Los Angeles Romo, an L.A. resident by way of Detroit, got his start in the luxe kitchen of the Ritz-Carlton before becoming the private chef to some of the biggest stars in music. The grill has been a staple of his cooking, dating back to his Motown roots, where even the frigid midwest winters couldn’t stop him. His recipes are infused with West Coast vibrancy, colour and sunshine. mychefnate.com SCALLOPS WITH SUNCHOKE PUREE AND SALSA VERDE

3 scallops 4 sunchokes (Jerusalem artichoke) 1 cup whole milk 1 bunch parsley 1 bunch cilantro 1 clove garlic 1 lemon Olive oil Nutmeg (to taste) White pepper (to taste) Salt (to taste) Peel sunchokes and bring them to a simmer in the milk. Once the sunchokes are tender, puree them with the milk and season with salt, nutmeg and white pepper to taste. For the salsa verde, chop equal parts parsley and cilantro along with the garlic. Combine with the juice and zest of one lemon.

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Pat the scallops dry and season with salt and white pepper. Heat up a small skillet and add some olive oil. Sear the scallops to medium rare and serve with the sunchoke puree and salsa verde. GINGER GIMLET

2 oz vodka or gin 1 ¼ oz St. Germain ½ oz fresh lemon syrup Small knob of ginger Fresh mint sprig In a cocktail shaker muddle together ginger and a few mint leaves. Fill shaker with ice and pour in remaining ingredients. Shake well. Strain into a glass with ice and garnish with lemon wheel and mint.

THE ITALIAN JOB EIMEAR BRAZIL & PETER BAE, Ascari Enoteca, Toronto In Toronto’s charming Leslieville neighbourhood, Ascari Enoteca puts a multicultural twist on Italian cuisine. And who better to do it than an Irish head chef and a South Korean sous chef? Eimear Brazil cut her teeth at The Waterford Castle in Ireland before coming to Toronto. And Peter Bae has been creating traditional and creative dishes at Ascari for two years. Their recipes celebrate Toronto’s lively summertime patio culture. ascarienoteca.ca COPA CON MANDORLA (Grilled pork neck with almond crunch and spring vegetables)

1.5 lb pork neck/shoulder (or four six-ounce pork chops) 4 oz slivered almonds ¼ bunch fresh marjoram (lightly chopped) 1 orange 8 oz olive oil 1 bunch (eight pieces) baby white turnips 6 oz fresh garlic scapes 4 eggs Slice pork neck into eight three-ounce rounds, place each piece between two pieces of parchment paper and gently pound out evenly into ⅛” thick, using a rubber kitchen mallet or the bottom of a flat pan. Roast almonds on a flat tray in a 350F oven until golden brown, stirring occasionally. Mix almonds with the zest of one orange, the juice of half the orange, chopped marjoram, 1 oz of olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. Peel the turnips, cut in half and roast in a pan over medium heat with one ounce of olive oil until golden brown and just tender in the middle. Season with salt and pepper. Bring two litres of water to boil in a medium pot, season liberally with salt, blanch the garlic scapes for two minutes, remove and place in ice water to cool. Remove scapes from ice water and grill on the

BBQ or over an open flame until slightly charred. Season with salt and pepper. Pour remaining olive oil into a small sauce pot with high sides. Preheat oven to its lowest possible setting (below 200F). Lace the pot of olive oil in the oven to preheat for 10 minutes. Separate the eggs keeping the yolks intact. Gently drop the yolks into the warm oil and place in the oven for 10 minutes. Preheat your grill or BBQ to high heat. Season the pork neck pieces evenly with salt and pepper, and grill to mark nicely on each side. Be careful not to overcook the meat (two to three minutes per side). Arrange the garlic scapes and roasted turnips on a flat plate, place the grilled pork over top. Place one tablespoon of the almond mixture on top of the pork and carefully place one of the confit egg yolks on top. Repeat for all four dishes. GINGER GIMLET

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BEST OF THE WEST PAUL MORAN, 1909 Kitchen, Tofino Resort + Marina, Tofino The award-winning Chef Paul Moran is a Vancouver native who has shown off his skills in Milan, Dubai and Paris. Today, he calls Tofino home, serving hungry resorters from his 1909 Kitchen. His international training and flare is deliciously apparent in these two recipes. tofinoresortandmarina.com CEDAR-ROASTED MISOMARINATED BLACK COD

4 x 7 oz portions of black cod fillets 3 ½ oz white miso paste 3 ½ oz maple syrup 3 ½ oz sake 1 oz lime or yuzu juice Cedar planks Begin by soaking cedar planks in cold water for 24 hours. Mix the miso, maple, sake and citrus juice into Ziploc bag until combined. Add the black cod to the bag with the marinade and let sit for six to 12 hours. Preheat BBQ or wood burning oven to 600F. Remove the cod from the bag and place one serving on each cedar plank. Place the plank in the oven or on the grill and close the lid or door. Roast for

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approximately eight to 10 minutes or until the fish begins to flake. Use any of your favourite summer vegetables to accompany the fish.

HATCH SMASH

1 ½ oz Jim Beam Black bourbon ¾ oz simple syrup Half lemon, muddled Soda water 2 dashes Angostura bitters Muddle lemon with simple syrup and two dashes bitters. Add bourbon. Fill shaker ¾ with ice. Shake and pour unstrained into a tall Collins glass. Top with soda. Garnish with a fresh lemon wedge.

BOLD STYLE GEAR UP. PACK. TAKE OFF.

Takin’ it to the streets COME ALONG ON A STROLL WITH A LOCAL MONTREALER THAT SETS YOU ON A PATH THAT GOES BACK IN TIME—AND INTO THE FUTURE BY MATTHEW HAYS

An intriguing lighting installation in Montreal’s Quartier des spectacles. boldmagazine.ca

f you haven’t visited Montreal since the late 1990s, when it was in a dire post-referendum malaise, you would find much of it unrecognizable. Its development remains uneven; certain neighbourhoods are booming (and suffering through the stress that comes with gentrification), in particular Mile End and Griffintown; others are suffering (especially the gay Village). But for me, the city’s central charm remains intact: like London and New York, Montreal is one of the greatest places to go for a long, extended walk. The distinct architecture, the parks, the shifting nuances of each neighbourhood, are best appreciated while walking. And when seeking inspiration, or a solution to a problem, I’m reminded of Nietzsche’s famous quote: “All truly great thoughts are conceived by walking.” What I refer to as The Greatest Montreal Walk, which takes a couple of hours, begins in the Old Port, the shore of the Saint Lawrence Seaway and in Old Montreal. Across the seaway, you can see Habitat, the iconic housing complex designed by architect Moshe Safdie, built for Expo 67. I would begin at the waterfront (McGill and de la Commune) and then recommend wandering through the cobblestone streets that feature a wide variety of cafés, restaurants, pubs and not-terribly-inspired gift shops. Many of the buildings are centuries old—one of the reasons that Montreal is often chosen as a place for filmmakers to shoot historical features, including The Curious Case of Benjamin Button and Catch Me if You Can. Buildings not to be missed would be City Hall, the Centaur Theatre, which originally housed

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Montreal’s stock exchange, and the Aldred Building, the city’s most beautiful Art Deco high rise. From Old Montreal, walk north on Saint Laurent Boulevard, also referred to as The Main, and the city’s dividing line—often thought of as between French (east) and English (west). This strip still provides a sense of how uneven Montreal’s economic revival has been. There are robust businesses next to what appear to be wholesale clearing houses and empty storefronts. On this walk, you will pass the National Theatre School and Café Cleopatra, the city’s fabled strip club and trans bar, where drag and trans performers put on outrageous lip-syncing shows. Cleopatra has become a symbol of some Montrealers’ defiant stance against gentrification and redevelopment. When private developers convinced the city to allow for a rebuilding of this block of the Main as a Times Square-style entertainment district, owner Johnny Zoumboulakis refused to sell. For many of us (myself included), this was a brave and refreshing stance against a development that would have stripped (pun intended) some of the old-school sleaze and decadence of The Main away. A further walk up Saint Laurent reveals further signs of gentrification, in particular the proliferation of mysterious shops that carry upscale merchandise, but appear to have no clear mandate. Perhaps it’s just because I’m getting older, but many of these shops are so ironic and sparsely stocked, it’s often impossible to figure out what the store’s purpose is. If nothing

Quartier des spectacles photo by Martine Doyon; Basilica and Place Jacques-Cartier photos by Stéphan Poulin; Bota Bota photo by Sid Lee

STYLE [ WEEKENDER ]

THIS SPREAD FROM LEFT: Place JacquesCartier; Interior of NotreDame Basilica of Montréal; a shopping-worthy visit to Artists’ Row; Bota Bota Spa overlooks the historic St. Lawrence River.

else, they make for a strange game of “What’s the point of this establishment?” Some philosophy books next to a vase or two, adjacent to an espresso machine. They proliferate the further north you get, culminating in the Mile End district. Jamais Assez (5155 St. Laurent) is a fine example, featuring some furniture and seriously chichi (at least judging by their price tags) drinking glasses and wastepaper baskets. On Duluth, head west to the Parc Jeanne Mance, which features a beautiful row of houses and apartments that overlook the park. A perfect lunch pit stop would be Café Santropol, boasting some of the city’s greatest sandwiches and milkshakes. The Parc Jeanne Mance is directly adjacent to Parc Mont Royal, where the GeorgeÉtienne Cartier monument overlooks the greenery. From there, it’s a half-hour walk up the mountain. I confess, having been brought up in Alberta, that I find the idea that this is a mountain comical. Once you’ve been in the Rockies, it’s really just a big hill. It’s still well worth the jaunt; the hike takes you by the giant, metal cross, which lights up nightly. (In the event of a Pope’s death, it is lit in bright purple, until a new Pope is named.) The park’s landscape was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted— widely regarded as the creator of landscape architecture—who also designed New York City’s Central Park. Ultimately, you’ll reach the lookout. There are hot dogs and ice cream on sale here, but the city should consider opening a restaurant with an truly inspired menu—it feels like an opportunity lost. But the view? Absolutely remarkable. On a clear day, you’ll feel like you can see forever.

MONTREAL ESSENTIALS Located in Old Montreal, the decadent spa Bota Bota offers a full range of treatments aboard a giant ferry. Take a sauna, get a manicure or massage, while taking in the city view. botabota.ca When it was built in 1843, the Notre-Dame Basilica was the largest church in Canada. It’s always been worth a visit, but the nightly light shows, launched in 2017 by the famed Montreal multimedia studio The Moment Factory, are not to be missed. The current show, Aura, runs Tuesday through Saturday. aurabasiliquemontreal.com Montreal’s best sandwich can be found in the Mile End ’hood at Banh Mi Banh Yiu (255a St. Viateur W.). They have delicious salads as well, and freshly made watermelon juice during the summer.

boldmagazine.ca

STYLE

[ GLOBETROTTER ]

A RO U N D T H E WO R L D W I T H T H E S TA R O F M u s i c M a n

Daren A. Herbert

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n his Stratford Festival debut, Daren A. Herbert plays the bamboozling salesman Harold Hill, whose attempt to con the residents of River City does not turn out quite as planned. The lead role in Music Man requires tremendous charisma and Herbert, who won the 2015 Dora Award for Outstanding Performance by a Male in the Musical Theatre Division for his turn as the vaudeville clown Burrs in The Wild Party, has got charisma to spare. Making his film debut in 2006’s Dreamgirls, the triple threat has appeared in an astonishing array of roles, from This Means War to Designated Survivor and Baroness Von Sketch Show. The Music Man plays at Stratford Festival’s Festival Theatre until November 3.

Where in the world have you felt happiest? We spent last Christmas Day with a family of very dear friends out in Langley, B.C., and it was the best! We used to live in Vancouver but moved to Toronto around 2013 so we hadn’t seen them all together in some time. Add to that we were able to bring our seven-month-old daughter to meet them all, their new additions included, for the first time. Since I was back in Vancouver to do a show, my dad flew in from Bermuda and my mom came over from London, England. My wife and I had enjoyed Christmas dinner with our Langley friends back when we lived in B.C. but this time, adding my parents to the dinner and musical mix took it all to the next level. My dad on keys, the usual suspects on a variety of string instruments and the rest of us, from the youngest to the oldest singing, eating and having the merriest time we could. To get away from it all, I go to: When we need a recharge, my wife and I head home to Bermuda to enjoy time with friends and family, curried mussel pies, codfish and potato breakfasts, the musical stylings of my friend Monty’s band, Working Title, Bermuda fish sandwiches and a healthy dose of the island’s natural beauty, completed by daily dips in the clear, blue Atlantic Ocean, usually in Harrington Sound or Shelly Bay Beach. We grew up swimming in those very same spots.

What’s your guilty pleasure while travelling? I try not to buy food on flights but when they bring the food cart along the aisle and I smell those pizzas… aargh! I gotta do better, I know, I know. Discipline! Which is your road most travelled? YYZ to BDA and back. YTZ to LGA is doing its best to catch up, though. Who is your favourite travelling companion? My wife, Jo. Who is the most interesting person you’ve met on your travels? That honour would have to go to a very young boy I met during military training in Kenya back in 1998. I was attached to the Royal Anglians and it was my first opportunity to travel to any part of Africa. It was an eye-opening and very challenging time. This boy, who spoke at least four languages, had no shoes and asked for nothing, managed to dumbfound some of my less “culturally sensitive” comrades to such a degree, by way of a stick-in-the-dirt geography lesson, that I literally saw a new kind of respect for African people dawn on them before my eyes. I would love to know where he is today.

“I try not to buy food on flights, but when they bring the food cart along the aisle and I smell those pizzas…”

Which is your favourite hotel and why? Nowadays, I’m more inclined to seek out a suitable Airbnb but when I was on tour, the Radisson Blu Minneapolis Downtown did make an impression on me. The lighting in both the public spaces and the rooms, the restaurant downstairs and the room they allowed us to utilize for our weekly poker night, all get top marks. Aina Nalu Lahaina in Maui gets an honourable mention since that is where we honeymooned some years ago. Beautiful place. Confession time: name one thing you’ve taken from a hotel. Oh, I’ve learned to make use of the individually wrapped soaps and minilotions, provided they are paraben-free and small enough to fit in my makeup kit. They do make great little additions. What’s the one thing you pack for every trip? I wear my backpack in a state of travel readiness every day. My mother-inlaw goes into shock when she sees me without it. My Cub Scout three-in-one silverware set (which gets moved to my checked bag so they don’t confiscate the knife at airport security—I’ve learned from experience), a pair of black boxer briefs that can double as yoga shorts/swim trunks in a pinch, GUM flossers, a travel toothbrush, Emergen-C, a few Throat Coat tea bags, a little hole puncher and some tape, in case I have to prep some new music and, of course, a charging cord for my phone. What’s your essential item for making travel more comfortable? Our Nexus cards. Those things work so well even our daughter got one when she was six months old. Indispensable!

What inspires you to keep exploring? The world is so large and varied. I’ve seen so many images, heard so many songs and read so many pages. Why wouldn’t I try to experience as much of it as I can before my time here is done?

What would be your trip of a lifetime? I’d love to trace the path of my ancestors back from Bermuda, through the Americas and Caribbean to Cote d’Ivoire, where my bompa says we came from. I made it back to Nevis, where he and my bumma were born, and I feel like that taught me so much about them as people. I want to know more about their grandparents, and their grandparents’ grandparents, back through the Maafa and down the lines of our story. I lost my heart in... Old City, Philadelphia and again in Central Park, NYC. And I give thanks every day for the second chance. I cannot imagine what my life would be without my Jo. Which travel experience most changed your worldview and why? That would have to be my nine months living in Osaka and working at Universal Studios Japan. The way of life over there was so different. The meeting of modern and traditional life, the way they blend and inform each other, was just mind blowing. The technology, the concept of space, the diet, the sheer numbers of people, the cleanliness, the work ethic—it was so much to digest. I’ve followed sumo wrestling ever since, and I hope to go back someday to see Tokyo and, maybe, catch a tournament live.

boldmagazine.ca

STYLE [ LOCAL EXPERT ]

CÔTE DE RÊVE

Virginia Johnson first visited the south of France as a teenager with her family and returned a couple of years later as a backpacker. These days, the Torontobased artist and textile designer, whose work has been part of collections at Holt Renfrew, Hudson’s Bay Co., Barney’s, Anthropologie and J. Crew, and who also illustrated a series of books for the late Kate Spade, goes back to the Côte d’Azur as often as she can. “If I’m getting someone to meet me, meeting there is always my first option.” Her debut book, Travels Through the French Riviera: An Artist’s Guide to the Storied Coastline, from Menton to Saint-Tropez, is a sparkling blend of dreamy watercolours and travel guide. Researching it has transformed her something of a local. —PAUL GALLANT

E AT

ARCHITECTURE

In Saint-Paul-de-Vence, La Colombe d’Or hotel has a humble guest house where artists like Picasso would famously trade paintings for room and board. It has famous artworks still there in the dining room, and a beautiful, beautiful courtyard with white table clothes. Even though it’s exclusive and you have to book months in advance, it hasn’t become slick or manufactured. My favourite thing is Panier de crudités, a huge basket of vegetables, many of them that come whole. la-colombe-dor.com

Henri Matisse moved to Vence in the 1940s and reunited with one of his old nurses who had become a nun by that point. They were planning to build a chapel [known as Chapelle du Rosaire] around the corner from where Matisse lived. He offered to design the stainedglass window, but ended up designing the whole thing. He did the incredible blue and yellow stained glass, he did the priests’ robes, the drawings that were painted on tiles, all of it. vence-tourisme.com

S TAY

In the 1950s, Marguerite and Aimé Maeght had an idea for an organization where art would be displayed in non-traditional ways, as part of the environment, rather than hanging on walls. They had friends of theirs work with the architect to create works of art that would be part of the architecture and the environment. Many prominent artists of the day were involved in this big project. Diego Giacometti’s works are in the sculpture garden and he also designed the furniture for the café. fondation-maeght.com

Hotel les Vergers de Saint Paul is about a 10-minute walk outside the medieval town, up in the hills with so many views to paint. It’s unpretentious, inexpensive, friendly and incredibly beautiful. The rooms are all swathed in white and navy ticking fabric from Paris, with terracotta floors. It’s without all the froufrou stuff, but still feels luxurious. lesvergersdesaintpaul.com FA S H I O N One of my favourite places to go for shopping and people watching is Saint Tropez, because it’s more glitzy than the other towns. Bla Bla Saint Tropez is my favourite shop in the whole Riviera. The two owners have a great eye for a high-end bohemian vibe. BEACH Menton has a sandy, very personal small-scale beach that’s not overwhelming like Nice. A lot of French families go there so it’s not very sceney. It’s so easy, with snack stands nearby, and the old town rising behind you. I discovered it by accident with my sister when we were in our early 20s. We had rented a car and found it while exploring one morning. We bought cheap bathing suits in town to go swimming. menton.fr

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ART

HOME VISIT I got the idea for the book when my brother and I visited the Jean Cocteau Museum in Menton, and we found out this villa, Santo Sospir, which is where Cocteau was a house guest for 10 years and where he painted all these murals on the wall. It’s such a magical spot, still lived in. It’s perched on the edge of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, overlooking the Mediterranean and it’s spectacular. villasantosospir.fr

TO R O N TO A R T I S T V I R G I N I A J O H N S O N TA K E S U S O N A TO U R O F T H E F R E N C H R I V I E R A

Tassled Earring with Garnet Arrows, $3,685, Jane Taylor (janetaylor.com)

DIANA reversible bikini top and bottom, $425, Anjuna (net-a-porter. com/ca/en)

Inspired by ONE & ONLY

PALMILLA

Red Booti print BIANCA DRESS, $300, Seraphina (seraphinalondon.com)

ROCKSTUD Sandals, $1,390, Valentino Garavani (valentino.com)

TONING BODY POLISHER, $50, 250g, Clarins (clarins.ca)

DESERT BLOOM

ong a hideaway of the rich and famous, this waterside resort belies its Baja California Sur surroundings. Here, the arid desert landscape of this Mexican peninsula has been gently coaxed and nurtured into a jungle of every shade of green imaginable. Spiky saguaro cactus trees stand tall, sentries along the meandering paths that wind their way through Palmilla, while agave and all manner of tropical flora add sculptural elements and riots of colour. The suites blend seamlessly between the gardens and the stretches of sandy beach, with views of the Sea of Cortez and of the Pacific Ocean. Blue mingles with gold, green with cream. It is tradition and the landscape that inspire the guest rooms’ interiors, travertine floors stay cool underfoot, while colourful embroideries and time-honoured patterns decorate the furniture to enliven the spirit. A butler assists in the everyday, from unpacking to booking a table at one of the seaside restaurants–or ensuring delivery of breakfast in bed or on the guestrooms’ private terraces. On the grounds of the resort, atop a hill just a climb away, sits the historic chapel, whitewashed and majestic, casting its blessed gaze over Palmilla, and out to the sea. More ancient, but no less steeped in local lore, is the spa’s latest offering, a Temazcal healing ritual. Think of this nod to indigenous culture as an age-old sauna of sorts–heat, steam, medicinal herbs and native music meld together to create a treatment like no other. A blend of history and modernity, like Palmilla itself. www.oneandonlyresorts.com/one-and-only-palmilla-los-cabos —VICTORIA BASS

VIVY Sunglasses, $605, Jimmy Choo (us.jimmychoo.com)

THE DIANA MINI TRUNK, $1,100, Christopher Howard (christopherhowardluxurygoods.com)

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Get Your Glow On

STYLE

[ THE BOLD BEAUTY LIST ]

EDITORS’ PICKS:

13 beauty essentials to pack now

WATER, BABY Dry skin will drink in L’Occitane’s AQUA RÉOTIER Ultra ThirstQuenching Gel

GOOD FOR YOU, GOOD FOR ME, GOOD FOR THE SEA Drunk Elephant’s UMBRA TINTE Physical Daily Defense SPF 30 is formulated with zinc oxide, raspberry and marula seed oils—and no chemicals

SIMPLY FLAWLESS Even out skin tone and imperfections with Chanel’s LES BEIGES Healthy Glow Gel Touch Foundation

TURN AROUND, BRIGHT EYES A cooling wand adds an extra boost to the Sulwhasoo SNOWISE BRIGHTENING Eye Serum

FRESH TAKE Sensitive skin types will appreciate the baking-soda-free, magnesium-based formula, and cocoa and eucalyptus fragrance, of made-in-Canada THE CURATOR Natural Deodorant from routine.

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POUT PERFECT DIOR ADDICT Lip Plumping Laquered Ink, Long-Wearing Colour #768 is all about the after party

PUMP IT UP Consider this a daily drink for your face: Sisley BLACK ROSE Skin Infusion

HEALING POWER Refresh and hydrate sun-kissed skin with Kiehl’s CALENDULA AND ALOE Soothing Masque

GO DEEPER Skin gets the green tea treatment to help build radiance with Amore Pacific PRIME RESERVE Epidynamic Activating Creme (Limited Edition)

BLUE MOOD

BE DAZZLING The eyes have it with the limited edition NARS NARSissist WANTED Eyeshadow Palette

From the smouldering desert heat to the downtown city streets, men’s fragrance createurs are enticed by a decidedly masculine mix of wood, smoke and spice. Go ahead, splash one on

Bergamot and wood Dior SAUVAGE Eau de Parfum $110 - 60ml (sephora.ca) TWO FACED Reveal glowing skin with Lancôme VISIONNAIRE CRESCENDO Dual Phase Night Peel

SERVE AND PROTECT Guard skin against damaging free radicals with Malin+Goetz TREATMENT OIL

BOOTY CALL Show it all off with skinsmoothing Clarins’ BODY FIT Anti Cellulite Contouring Expert

Citrus and smoke Hermès EAU DE CITRON NOIR eau de cologne $201 - 200ml (hermes.com)

Spice and suede COACH FOR MEN eau de toilette $80.00 - 60ml (thebay.com) boldmagazine.ca

EXTRAORDINARY STORIES WELL TRAVELLED

“There is nothing more beautiful than seeing the fields of

grapes, and the wineries in the region that produces award winning wines that compete on a world-wide stage” Avioner® DIGITAL & LIFESTYLE INFLUENCER

MANDY FURNIS

ultural exploration. Limitless adventure. Joyful discovery. Those of you who love to travel, to go beyond your borders (yet, at the same time, go deeper into your own backyard), you are a true traveller and these words are a part of your language. And for true travellers, the need to feed your wanderlust is a part of who you are. Taking in the sights, then going further – the history, the locals, the traditions, immersing yourself in the who, what, why and how of where you are, in the moment. A moment that will last a lifetime in your memories. The tastes, the smells, the sounds of where you are fuel the passion for discovery of a new destination, or a more meaningful rediscovery of a timeless favourite place, somewhere you’ll return again and again. We have a name for these travellers – we call them Avioners ®. One of these Avioners® is Mandy Furnis, founder of the blog sparkleshinylove, where she shares her stories, focused on the adventure of life with her family – her highschool sweetheart husband, along with their young son and their Yorkie, Maverick. Travel, home renovation and DIY projects, as well as her fashion and beauty finds, all with her family in mind, is part of Mandy’s daily inspiration. Being an Avioner®, says Mandy, has made it easier to be spontaneous. “It’s all bout being able to easily plan and then go on our next adventure” she says. “We are always travelling, and having a points card that is as flexible as the RBC Avion® Card is perfect for our lifestyle.” We asked Mandy to share with us how she feeds her need for travel with her family, with a nod to that spur-of-themoment freedom. “[Adventure] is not having a plan! Build more time into your schedule to see and explore and make the most of travelling with your family”. Avioners® can do that. And here’s how you can, too.

What’s the best way to explore new places in one’s own backyard? “When I travel somewhere new – even in Canada – I always start with learning from locals,” says Mandy. “The hotel concierge is great for tourist information, but normally I also ask cab drivers, the bellboy, and restaurant staff what their favourite things to see and do are. Their musttries are always different than the lists that the tourists follow! Head to your destination, and start with a meal, check into your hotel, or go for a walk and start chatting with everyone around you.” When Avioners® use the card with every booking or experience, it earns points that can be used toward the next adventure. So even the best adventures can be close to home? “Niagara-on-the-Lake is luckily only a few hours from us, and we feel like we are stepping into another world when we arrive,” says Mandy. “There is nothing more beautiful than the fields of grapes – and the wineries produce awardwinning wines that compete on a world stage.” The culinary adventures in Niagara-on-the-Lake are impressive as well, she adds. Travellers can dine in the barrel cellar of a winery, or have lunch packed into a basket to go with a winery bike rental for the day, “or even eat dinner while watching a concert among the vines!” Avioners® have a wealth of information and travel options at discover.rbcroyalbank.com/travel/ all at the ready when seeking new experiences. “I love shopping on the town’s small streets, heading

out on a winery tour with Crush On Niagara Tours, and eating the cheese plate from Vineland Estates Winery.” Mandy’s other must-dos include a glass of Megalomaniac Riesling; stopping at Upper Canada Cheese Company for some fresh bread and cheese; and fresh fudge made fresh in town. Any tips for travellers with kids? “My advice is to look for destinations with “experiences” on site to make sure your little one has a fun trip, too!” says Mandy. For example, Mandy and her family were able to take advantage of the wineries in Niagara-on-the-Lake that offer more than just wine tasting. “We brought our six year old with us this past winter where he had fun skating at Gretzky’s ice rink outside in the snow and drank hot chocolate while watching a hockey game on the outdoor screens.” Even the simpler things, say, taking a horse and carriage ride through the historic, small-town streets of Niagara-on-the-Lake are tailor-made for family travel memories.

About to take-off on a trip? Keep us posted and show us how you feed your need to travel using #Avioning Avioners® Can Do That.

BOLD Partnerships

EXTRAORDINARY EXPERIENCES

Photo of Wickaninnish Inn, Tofino, by Jeremy Koreski

FEED THE NEED TO TRAVEL: Discover the people, places and experiences that make a trip unforgettable. with

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INTO THE NEW

n intrepid traveller knows that in this world, there are still plenty of paths less travelled, destinations yet to be discovered by tourists. How do we satiate our wanderlust and feed the need to travel and seek out the unknown? Of course, we’re not suggesting going to extremes. It’s more about easing into the undiscovered and using the experts to help us get there. Destinations in familiar places, such as the Pacific Northwest, still have plenty of places that demand a closer look. Travel rewards programs can help you do that. Take the RBC’s Visa Infinite‡ Avion® card, for example, as your guide to exploring the unknown: it brings the world in focus, and makes it even easier to just go.

When some of us think of the Pacific, we think south, we think islands: swaying palms, blue-on-blue waves and stretches of sand as far as the eye can

see. But this is a different Pacific. A northern Pacific. Canada’s Pacific.

Vargas Island photo by Michael Becker

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On Vancouver Island, we feed the need to travel for… A reconnection with the land and the sea. Here, on Canada’s western edge, sits a different kind of island. It is here that Queen Victoria has her namesake city, the capital; it is here to where we retreat. It is also here, where a most spectacular place to which we retreat sits. Perched at the water’s edge, like a queen sitting on her throne, facing ever westward, as if daring her most loyal yet rambunctious subject to lap at her feet yet entertain her with his every weathered move. The queen, in this case, is The Wickaninnish Inn, in Tofino, B.C.; her subject, the mighty Pacific. This award-winning member of the revered Relais & Chateaux network of, well, simply gorgeous places to hang your hat, has been a beacon of rest and relaxation and a front-row seat to some of nature’s most magnificent moods. Stormwatchers gather at the Inn to take in the sea’s showy personality; the crashing waves, the surfers braving them, all while swirling pods of orca can be seen in the distance. But the ocean is not the Inn’s only muse. Chesterman Beach calls to the combers in all of us. The rainforest, ancient and resplendent with such giants as the Western Red Cedar, Douglas Fir and Sitka Spruce, begs for a mind-cleansing forest bathing walk. And the town of Tofino is about as laid back as a vacation spot should be. Back at the Inn, emersion of the Pacific Northwest comes naturally: the cuisine is inspired by B.C.’s rich bounty, from straight-from-thesea seafood to farm-fresh organic (and did we mention the wines? The list is among the best in B.C.), to the Inn’s Ancient Cedars spa, with treatments that take their cues from the rustic elements that envelop the property, and our bodies. The sea air, the mesmerizing beat of the ocean surf, and the warm welcome from our hosts at The Wickaninnish will soon have us lulled into a peaceful slumber. No matter. Tomorrow we will be greeted by more. And the ocean will be waiting. wickinn.com

OPENING PAGE: Aerial view of the Wickaninnish Inn. THIS SPREAD FROM LEFT: Vargas Island from the air; Crab Cannery at Tofino Inlet; view of Cedar Sanctuary; de-constructed tuna plate.

Want to feed your need to travel? As an AVIONER® you can do that. Discover how an RBC Avion card makes it easier to explore the places you’ve always wanted to go – or revisit a culture that’s made a difference in your life.

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Epicurean

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Island

In the Garden of the Gulf, ANITA DRAYCOTT follows the P.E.I. food trail from Rustico Harbour to the Victorian-era streets where Confederation was conceivedâ&#x20AC;Ś and sips a little moonshine along the way

St. Peterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Harbour Lighthouse. boldmagazine.ca

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THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A waterfront party; working on the farm; lobster catch at Red Head Harbour; the Oyster Obsession experience at The Table Culinary Studio in New London; lunch at New Glasgow’s The Mill; the places are set at The Table Culinary Studio; the harvest at a farm in Orwell Cove.

ext stop: the hottest meal ticket on P.E.I. In 2015 chef Michael Smith and his wife Chastity purchased The Inn at Bay Fortune where chef Smith had worked back in the 1990s. Every evening chef Smith and his “Fire Brigade” orchestrate Feast at FireWorks, using ingredients from their organic farm as well as from a roster of local farmers, fisher folk, foragers and culinary artisans. Before dinner, guests mingle and slurp freshly shucked oysters, hors d’oeuvres and cocktails served in the historic kitchen, location of chef Smith’s first cooking show The Inn Chef. At food stations throughout the garden, chefs use every form of live-fire cooking known to man, including a smokehouse, open hearth, grill, rotisserie, plancha and oven. No dials, no switches, just old-school cooking, which is served family-style at long butcher-block tables overlooking Bay Fortune. We wind up our foodie road trip in Charlottetown. Canada’s teeniest capital proved to be chock full of tasty treats. Bill and Mary Kendrick have created a number of authentic P.E.I. experiences so you can meet islanders and learn a thing or two. Highlights of their Charlottetown Taste the Town walking tour include hot and crispy fries at the Chip Shack, where spud queen Caron Prins proclaims she is vying to have her chips named Best in the World. She gets my vote. By the time we finished the tour we had sampled oysters, mussels, craft beer, Scottish oatcakes and lobster rolls. We also met some fascinating characters who know how to spin a yarn or two. I never leave Charlottetown without getting in my licks at Cows, named by some as “Canada’s best ice cream.” My favourite flavour is Wowie Cowie—vanilla ice cream chock full of English toffee, dark chocolate and caramel bits. With cone in hand, I wish farewell to P.E.I.; the diet starts tomorrow.

Lighthouse photo by Nick Jay; lobster party, and boy with lamb, by Stephen Harris; Red Head Harbour by Yvonne Duivenvoorden; Table Culinary Studio photos by Paul Baglole; Orwell Cove by John Sylvester; mussels and oysters by Dave Brosha; all photos courtesy Tourism P.E.I.

“Y

ou can go to Charlottetown, see Anne of Green Gables and then have a lobster supper, or you can have a lobster supper and then go see Anne of Green Gables,” quipped The Royal Canadian Air Farce’s Roger Abbott a few decades ago in a CBC show roasting Prince Edward Island. On my most recent visit to what’s been dubbed Canada’s Food Island, I must confess that I did devour lobster every day and I took in a performance of Anne at the Confederation Centre. But how times have changed. When it comes to fabulous food and novel experiences, Canada’s tiniest province is (pardon the pun), no small potato. For the most part, the P.E.I. landscape defines the word bucolic: contented cows graze in rolling emerald pastures, fishing boats bob in rustic harbours, iconic lighthouses dot the coastline and the red mineral-rich earth imparts flavour to everything that grows here, including the famous spuds. Imagine a big green farm floating in a sea full of fish. Whether you’ve got a craving for some freshly harvested Malpeque oysters, locally made moonshine or Canada’s best ice cream, you will never be far from a culinary treat on this 224-kilometre-long slice of bliss. My husband and I begin our epicurean romp in New London, near P.E.I.’s north shore, where chef Derrick Hoare and his partner Christine Morgan have transformed a United Church into The Table Culinary Studio. Where the choir used to sing, we now gather at individual workstations to make lunch. During our “Bounty of the Sea” session we prepare several seafood dishes, plus we learned how to shuck oysters, de-beard mussels and attack lobsters. After all the slicing and dicing, we sit down to a lunch of seafood chowder, lobster tails broiled with lime/chili butter, scallops with bacon jam, lobster and blue potato salad and lemon mousse. At the end of the meal, Christine hands out “fortune cookies” in the shape of clams, each holding a typical P.E.I. expression. One example: “If I was any happier, there’d be two of me.” After lunch we meander along the region of Queen’s County that’s aptly dubbed Anne’s Land. At Cavendish, home of the red-headed orphan’s famous Green Gables, the “Anne” thing does get a little out of control. Cavendish is littered with shopping strips selling Anne souvenirs: dolls, straw hats with fake red pigtails… you name it. We turn off the tourist track and head to North Rustico, a more authentic community known for its Acadian culture, where we rent a kayak from Outside Expeditions and paddle off a few pounds around the harbour. P.E.I. is full of foodie entrepreneurs, none very far from the others. Across a bridge and following along Hunter River, we make a quick stop at Glasgow Glen Farm where Jeff McCourt produces intriguing cheeses, including blouda, a winning combo of gouda and blue. Just a little further along the river, at the Prince Edward Island Preserve Company, kilted owner Bruce MacNaughton leads us straight to the sampling counter laden with such delights as strawberry and Grand Marnier jam and Shuckin’ Delicious oyster sauce. We soon arrive at the ultimate P.E.I. experience, New Glasgow Lobster Suppers, a no-frills, family-run island institution since 1958 that might have been the catalyst for the Air Farce joke. All-you-can-eat hot bread, brimming bowls of chowder, mounds of mussels and crisp salads precede the queen of the crustaceans—you choose the size. We finish off with a mile-high wedge of lemon meringue pie. Later, at Dalvay by the Sea, we crash for the night. Built as a summer cottage in 1896 by the president of Standard Oil, the grand Victorian summer cottage, located inside the national park, still feels more like a home than a hotel. A pre-breakfast brisk jaunt along the beach restore our appetites—must be that briny air. Islanders have been brewing moonshine since Prohibition, which lasted here until 1948 (most provinces relented in the 1920s). Now the hooch is being legally produced at Myriad View Artisan Distillery Inc., which opened in 2007 in Rollo Bay. So unaccustomed were Islanders to having a distiller in their midst that when the company first started advertising, someone told cofounder Ken Mill: “You’re just begging to get arrested.” It was more common to sell it in Mason jars out of the trunk of a car. Knowing they have their permits, we pop in for a dram of Strait Shine. Prohibition-era moonshine was unaged—it’s too hard to hide barrels from law enforcement—and Strait Shine maintains that tradition with its clear and potent elixir.

CULINARY P.E.I. ESSENTIALS Eat on the go Savour some of P.E.I.’s best bites from food trucks. Try the po’boy sandwich at The Galley in Summerside, or the Lobster Melt at Terries Berries. You’ll discover more temptations at Fun on a Bun in Montague, Furious Franks in Belfast and The Waffle Company in Charlottetown.

International allure While the island overflows with food-filled community festivals all summer long, the big one for serious gourmands is The Fall Flavours Festival, which every September features more than 100 culinary and cultural events with celebrity chef cook-offs around the island. fallflavours.ca

Shelling out Who ladles out the island’s best chowder? Or spices up the best Bloody Caesar? Find out at P.E.I.’s annual Shellfish Festival, dubbed the “Biggest Kitchen Party in Atlantic Canada.” This year from September 13 to 16. peishellfish.com boldmagazine.ca

Sensuous Seville The city that brought you tapas and flamenco has other passions in store, JARED MITCHELL reports from the heart of Andalusia

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A traditional carriage horse takes a break from its daily duties. boldmagazine.ca

hroughout Seville, the capital of Spain’s Andalucía region, national flags hang from the balconies of apartment buildings—hundreds, perhaps thousands of them—a reminder of fierce local devotion to Spain, but also a rejoinder to the fissiparous region of Catalonia and its separatist movement. I’m travelling about town with my Spanish friend, Gaby, and she departs from usual tourism diplomacy to fire some passionate words. “I have very strong opinions on this,” she says, as she lays into the would-be breakaway region to the northeast. “I love Spain and don’t see why they should have to leave such a beautiful country.” She talks at length before remembering herself and calmly reverting to an enumeration of local sights. Seville is a place that fosters such passionate love of land and heritage. And yet the city dozed for many decades in the 20th century during which it suffered economic neglect, its rich history of global trade during the Age of Exploration a distant memory. In the 1990s things turned around, with new infrastructure investment and a world’s fair. Seville once again found its passion. Today, savvy tourists skirt the crowds in Barcelona for Seville’s under-reported plazas, alleys and alcoves. It never feels full-to-bursting and even its single air terminal feels relaxed, even during busy times. Take a look at the “Mushroom,” a one-of-a-kind crazy revitalization of formerly rundown plaza in Seville’s Plaza Encarnación. Officially known as Metropol Parasol, it’s a vast canopy of interlocking wood that permits you to ramble up and down its futuristic rooftop walkways and enjoy views of the old city around you. There are other places, like Triana, on the other side of the Guadalquivir River, that are building new reputations for great tapas bars, clubs and big riverside restaurants that avoid the feeling of bus-tour feeding stations. Seville is not a bus-tour kind of place—the streets are far too narrow. Gaby tells me that the city’s 2,200 years of recorded history have seen its own sovereignty shuffled variously between Romans, North African Moors, Arabs and Castilians. In violent conquest after conquest, the city overlaid the new over the old, and that layering is still visible today. The city centre wears the epochs like beguiling robes. La Giralda, the square steeple joining Seville’s vast cathedral, was once the minaret on a Moorish mosque, reminding visitors of the towers one sees in nearby Morocco. Visible from all over town, the Catedral de Santa María de la Sede is the guiding post of a typical Seville tour. Built on the site of a mostly demolished mosque, it’s held the title of the world’s largest church since the 16th century, and looks more like medieval arena than a place of worship. Its murky nave gives an overall sense of the breadth and depth of the building. And like so many churches, later generations added their monuments, statuary, relics and doodads. Look for the extravagant but only putative tomb of Christopher Columbus (numerous other cities claim to hold his bones as well), guarded by figures representing some of Spain’s constituent kingdoms. Gaby takes me through the evocative and graceful palace and gardens known as the nearby Réal Alcázar, which is similarly layered with history. Once the court of the 11th-century Arabic Abbadid dynasty, it was enlarged to house a vast harem of 800 women and a garden where the skulls of enemies served as flower pots. Today it is one of the locations used for making the hit TV series Game of Thrones, posing as the water gardens of Dorne. Seville’s fieriness extends to its climate. Summer is an inferno of 35C temperatures, making the city the hottest in Europe. It helps to visit, as I did, in November, when the temperatures are in the low 20s during the days and cooler in the evenings when Sevillanos don jackets to promenade the old city’s stately pedestrianized Avenida de la Constitución. On the street, the city’s famous oranges hang voluptuously from the trees, although no one eats them, for they are so bitter that only the British go for them as the main ingredient in marmalade. Away from the monuments and boulevards, it’s in the backstreets where I find Seville’s calmer charms, alleys barely wide enough for compact cars to pass through. The streets snake and split in a

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THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Details of Moorish architecture of Patio de las Doncellas at the Réal Alcázar, de Sevilla; flamencodancin’ up a storm; the hyper-modern Metropol Parasol makes a statement in the old quarter; the Baths of Dona Maria Padilla at Réal Alcázar; the view from above is all colour, space and light; La Giralda, the steeple of the cathedral was once a minaret.

medieval chaos of intimacies. I take an apartment in a small hotel in the labyrinthine Argote de Molina, one of the many cramped stems radiating out from the Seville Cathedral. It’s a quiet refuge from a sudden influx of British soccer fans who have come to cheer Liverpool’s team on in its battle against Sevilla FC. Rather than succumbing to the usual fisticuffs, however, the opponents gather in the Plaza de San Francisco to see who can kick soccer balls the highest, an outbreak of gentle boyishness. Argote de Molina eventually wends its way north toward the downmarket Barrio Macarena, wherein a church hosts the bejewelled Virgin of Macarena, a holy sculpture put on parade during Semana Santa to a near-delirious reception from the faithful. Sevillanos’ religious fervour morphs into sporting mania during the Feria de Abril when the bullfighting season begins. Whether you approve of the sport or not, Spaniards flock to the riverside Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza daily to pay homage to bullfighting’s greatest venue. There, I find numerous statues of real-life bullfighters immortalized in bronze. But my attention is drawn to a statue of a woman, almost obscured beneath trees and across a six-lane arterial from the bullring. It is Carmen, Bizet’s flamboyant temptress. In his opera, a soldier is beguiled but later betrayed by Carmen, and he kills her in a jealous rage. Today, her effigy stands opposite the bullring, glaring at the stadium with contemptuous defiance, ultimately consumed by the passionate hearts of Seville.

SEVILLE ESSENTIALS Seville is not a city of towering hotels. Indeed the very best places tend to be on the small, intimate side. Hotel Palacio de Villapanes in Calle Santiago is decorated in traditional AndalucĂan style and built around a collegial courtyard. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also within easy walking distance of the railway station to the east, making for easy for day trips around the region. palaciovillapanes.com The Abades Triana restaurant, in the up-andcoming Triana district, offers superb riverside views. Seafood is their strong suit and, much like the view of Torre del Oro monument cross the Guadalquivir River, the presentation is to marvel at. abadestriana.com Avoid the bar in the undeservedly snooty Hotel Alfonso XIII and repair to the fabulous roof bar at the Hotel Inglaterra in Plaza Nuevo. Go at sunset and savour the floodlights coming on at cathedral. hotelinglaterra.es boldmagazine.ca

a walk above

o u l c ds

the

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IN THE REMOTE MOUNTAINS OF EASTERN BRITISH COLUMBIA, A HIGH-ALTITUDE LODGE PROMISES HIKING AND HAUTE CUISINE FOR THOSE WITH A TASTE FOR ADVENTURE, REPORTS DOUG O’NEILL

ormally I become impatient waiting for a ride, fidgeting whenever I’m uncertain of the ETA of my pick-up, be it a bus, subway train, airport limo or Uber. But not today. Definitely not today. I’m waiting it out with unaccustomed patience on a piece of granite, high up in the remote Cariboo Mountains in eastern British Columbia, mesmerized by the North Canoe Glacier that’s dominating the tableau in front of me. The massive expanse of snow and ice dwarfs every other landmark within sight. Even the glacier-carved lake beside it looks miniscule. I shift in my granite seat (a mite cold on the bum) to take a look at Little Matterhorn Peak. Since when did a landmass that towers 2,500 metres qualify as “little”? Directly behind me is the valley of moss-covered rocks we hiked through to reach our rendez-vous spot for our transport off the mountain top. I squint into the sun and try to make out Mount Carpe and Mount Withers in the distance, but the skies have unexpectedly clouded over. That’s when I hear the chopping sounds of the rotors on the Bell 212 helicopter, just a speck in the sky as it begins to descend out of the clouds. My ride has arrived. As soon as our merry band of eight heli-hikers has safely boarded, the helicopter lifts off and begins the return trip to CMH Cariboos Lodge, our home-base for this four-day heli-hiking adventure. Our seasoned pilot, Jens Gessner, came on a visit from Germany 19 years ago and never left. He deftly manoeuvres our aircraft up through the clouds, soaring over snow-capped mountain peaks, alpine forests, waterfalls, jagged ridgelines and rushing rivers until Cariboos Lodge comes into view. Perched on a bluff overlooking Canoe River, surrounded mostly by pine forest, is our 26-room luxury lodge, where an outdoor hot tub, sauna, a peaty scotch (for me, anyways), a soothing massage and gourmet dinner await. Such are the rewards after a day’s hike above the clouds. Austria-born Hans Gmoser, founder of CMH—the company which introduced heli-skiing in the Cariboo Mountains in the 1960s— pioneered heli-hiking at Cariboos Lodge in 1978. Gmoser wanted to make the vast wilderness available to hikers, as well as skiers. CMH eventually expanded the three-, four- and six-day summer heli-hiking trips (for novices and advanced hikers) to two of its sister lodges, Robbie Burns (in the Purcell Mountains) and Bugaboos (near Bugaboo Glacier). Cariboos Lodge put its summer heli-hiking program on hiatus about a decade ago and is bringing it back in September 2018. The lure of heli-hiking is hard to resist: a helicopter scoops up hikers from the landing pad outside the lodge twice each day (morning and afternoon) and deposits them, along with a qualified alpine guide experienced in back-country hiking, on a mountain peak, near a glacier or in an alpine meadow. There are few marked trails in the remote mountain wilderness, so no one hikes solo. But the emphasis on safety never gets in the way of luxury. In fact, there are enough creature comforts (sauna, spa treatments, yoga sessions, hot tub, music room, fitness centre and a well-stocked bar) that it’s tempting to skip a hike and hang out in the rustic chic lodge, which some guests do. (There’s no judgment in the backcountry.) boldmagazine.ca

uests dine family-style each evening, swapping photos and unforgettable moments of the day’s alpine outings. The gourmet meals are equally memorable: Angus beef is sourced from ranches known for their sustainable farming practices; a producer in Salt Spring Island supplies the goat cheese; grain-fed lamb comes from Alberta and certified organic fish from Tofino. The organic olive oil is produced by nuns outside Andalusia, Spain. It’s during the morning meal that veteran mountain guide (and lodge manager) John Mellis outlines each day’s outings. At breakfast on our last full day we learn we’re going to Milk Punch Ridge, about a 30-minute helicopter ride away.

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Milk Punch turns out to be a windswept ridge at about 2,000 metres’ elevation. “On a clear day you can see Mount Robson, the highest point in the Rockies,” says Mellis, as we exit the helicopter one more time. The trail, used almost exclusively by mountain goats, follows the spine of the ridge and ends in a vertical scramble 500 metres up, where the helicopter will pick us up. It’s a stubborn vegetation that grows on the ridge: heather, subalpine fir, crowberry, moss campion and patches of lichen. But it’s the stunted krummholtz that claim my admiration: bent, gnarled trees determined to hold their own against the incessant wind. I take heart knowing that these scrappy, persevering little trees will be here long after we’ve flown home. There’s beauty in that.

The author makes it to the top.

HOW TO GET THERE CMH transports guests in a private luxury coach from Calgary airport to the helicopter pad in Valemont, B.C. along the scenic Icefields Parkway. The Parkway passes by cascading waterfalls, dramatic rock spires, more than 100 glaciers, snow-topped mountain peaks and emerald lakes galore. Expect stops in Banff, Jasper, Vermillion Lakes, Athabasca Falls and Bow Lake. cmhsummer.com

WILDERNESS ADVENTURES AROUND THE WORLD Avellano Valle and the Lost Town: Horseback riding in the AysĂŠn Region of Patagonia, Chile. Senderos Patagonia. aysensenderospatagonia.com Wineglass Bay Sail Walk: Wilderness hiking on the east coast of Tasmania with overnights on a luxury yacht. Tasmanian Walking Company. taswalkingco.com.au Croatian Active Adventure: Rafting, sea kayaking and canyoning along the Dalmatian Coast, Croatia. Explore Worldwide. exploreworldwide.ca Whales and Wilderness Glamping: Kayaking in the Broughton Archipelago off the west coast of British Columbia to see orcas, humpback whales and bears. Spirit of the West Adventures. kayakingtours.com

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LUXURY DESTINATION WEDDINGS & HONEYMOONS

WINTER ISSUE 2018-2019

Sleepy Oslo is on the brink of massive growth, as the city anticipates a massive influx of both immigrants and Norwegians from other parts of the country. The cranes are abundant but traditions still hold, reports Sarah Treleaven. The city has developed a terrific culinary and style scene, with coffee bars that transition into cocktail bars, local fashion designers who work only with sustainable and ethically sourced materials and restaurants that challenge conventional notions of Scandinavian food. S TAY Rooms near the rail station & harbour are in high demand

E AT

SHOP

Sweet & salty mix here in classic Scandi style

For those who like it practical, warmâ&#x20AC;Ś & chic

SEE & DO A taste of the outdoors, high culture & sustainability

our insiderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

guide to

OSLO Photo courtesy of Visit Oslo, by Didrick Stenersen

Murals inside Oslo City Hall.

INSIDER’S GUIDE TO OSLO

S TAY

Rooms near the rail station & harbour are in high demand GET SMART Smarthotel is a budget option with a bit of a hostel/capsule-hotel vibe. Single rooms are tiny but affordable, and the front desk staff is friendly and knowledgeable. Located right next to the Royal Palace and surrounding park. From $81. smarthotel.no MODERN CONVENIENCE Located right in Oslo’s busy central rail station (with convenient access to the airport express train), Comfort Hotel Grand Central is a modern, clean and comfortable option adjacent to the city centre and just steps from the Oslo Fjord. From $147. nordicchoicehotels.com THE GRANDE DAME The five-star Hotel Continental opened in 1900 and still sets the standard for luxury in Oslo. In addition to 139 plush guest rooms, the formal Theatercafeen is an iconic café frequented by Norway’s cultural and business elite. From $484. hotelcontinental.no

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OPENING PAGE: Xxxx ON THIS PAGE: Xxxx

Wafffle photo by Tuuka Koski

E AT

Sweet & salty mixed in classic Scandi style

ON THIS PAGE: Xxxxx

THIS BUN’S FOR YOU The cinnamon bun is essentially Norway’s national baked good, and there is much debate about where to find the best one in Oslo. Expect a large, yeasty, generously spiced and not overly sweet pastry. Apent bakeri is a local favourite, but you might consider sampling around and deciding on your own. apentbakeri.no CATCH OF THE DAY Indulge the Norwegian love of seafood at Fiskeriet Youngstorget, a busy central fish market and restaurant. Take a table outside or grab a seat at the bar and try some nicely seasoned fish cakes, fish and chips or steamed mussels in marinara sauce. fiskeriet.net MODERN NORWEGIAN Kampen Bistro is a cozy FrenchNorwegian hybrid dedicated to the city’s increasing localism movement, and the menu (which changes frequently) is full of expertly grilled fish and shellfish, salads full of fresh herbs and nourishing soups. During the warmer months, there’s a large rooftop terrace perfect for a pre- or post-dinner cocktail. kampenbistro.no SNACK & STROLL The Mathallen food hall is a great place to eat while you browse for more. Vendors sell everything from smoked fish, fresh bread and paella to spring rolls and whole crabs, and there are also small gourmet shops brimming with small tins and jars perfect for souvenirs. Be sure to stop in at the neighbouring park to take a peek at the surprisingly raging Akerselva River. mathallenoslo.no

THIS PAGE: The “liquid waffle” at Maaemo Restaurant; seared scallop; sourcing the best ingredients at Mathallen food hall.

LUXE LOCALISM Maaemo—a chic bistro whose name translates to “Mother Earth” in Old Norse—is the world’s northernmost Michelin-starred restaurant. Book early for one of the few seats in the tiny Scandinavian modern dining room, and prepare for a lengthy tasting menu of wild, organic and biodynamic ingredients. maaemo.no

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INSIDER’S GUIDE TO OSLO

SHOP

For those who like it practical, warm… & chic SPLURGE WHILE SAVING The pricey Swedish brand Acne is a cult classic for its chic minimalism and luxurious fabrics. Oslo’s Acne Studios Archive discount annex offers a range of denim, dresses, heeled boots, warm knits and accessories from Acne’s previous seasons. acnestudios.com FROM BEAUTIFUL TO BIZARRE Fransk Bazar is an eclectic and beautifully curated vintage shop that sells everything from industrial lighting and old metal cabinets to colourful glassware and small taxidermy animals. franskbazar.no THE SOPHISTICATED SHOPPER Established in 1899, Glasmagasinet is an historic and elegant department store in the city centre that sells a range of clothing, household goods, cosmetics and other items, many by Norwegian designers. The third-floor café sells traditional open-face sandwiches and looks out over Stortorvet Square. glasmagasinet.no

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SEE & DO

Diving photo courtesy Visit Oslo, by Katrine Lunke; Opera House courtesy Visit Oslo, by Didrick Stenersen; Losæter courtesy Visit Oslo, by Didrick Stenersen

A taste of the outdoors, high culture & sustainability WATER BABIES It’s common to see groups of Norwegians braving the waters even when it’s icy cold. The lovely Oslo Fjord is lined with swimming areas, decks, small saunas and even a floating sauna made from reclaimed materials. visitoslo.com ENJOY A PERFORMANCE… OR A WALK ON THE ROOF Oslo’s highly contemporary Opera House, designed by renowned Norwegian architectural firm Snøhetta, opened in 2008. Grab tickets to see the opera and ballet companies that call it home, or simply join the hundreds of locals drawn to its appealing (and sloping) public spaces. operaen.no THE FUTURE OF FOOD The Losæter urban farm project, event space and community bakery (with a wheat field, to boot) is a surprising find in the centre of Oslo. Stop by to discuss the future of food, attend a workshop about beekeeping, or sign on for one of their weekly locavore dinners. loseter.no

LILLEHAMMER SIDE TRIP Two hours by train from central Oslo, little Lillehammer—made famous by hosting the 1994 Winter Olympics—is full of charm. The picturesque city centre is all colourful wooden houses, cafés with al fresco seating and excellent cultural institutions, including the Lillehammer Art Museum and Maihaugen ethnographic museum. Nature lovers will find great nearby camping, biking, hiking and skiing options. Be sure to sample some of the local food, including bacon and barley soup and sour cream porridge. lillehammer.com

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TRAVEL INTEL Our tips and tricks to navigating the world

Five fascinating places you’ll never visit

There’s nothing like being told you can’t go somewhere to rocket that destination straight to the top of your must-see list. But Liz Fleming reports that even the boldest of us might find these destinations daunting.

While an untouched, Indian Ocean hideaway, inhabited by people who remain apart from modern civilization, has huge Robinson Crusoe-esque caché, don’t put North Sentinel Island in next year’s vacation plan. The last two outsiders who had the misfortune to wash ashore there were killed immediately and the helicopter pilots sent to retrieve their bodies were attacked with bows and arrows. Unwelcoming, but not without reason. The indigenous inhabitants of the island have had no contact with the outside world and so have no immunity to common illnesses. Something as innocuous as a cold could wipe out the entire tribe. To protect the North Sentinel Island people—and any guests foolish enough to try to visit them—the Indian government has banned access within three miles of the shore.

HOSTILE HIPPIES

When you find the perfect surfing beach, do you want to share it with outsiders? The latterday hippy locals who call California’s Bolinas Beach home certainly don’t. Each time the county installs signage to guide tourists to this outstanding surfing hotspot, Bolinasians wait for nightfall and steal all the signs. You can try plugging the longitude and latitude into Wayz, but it might be kinder not to. The hippies who found their groove on Bolinas Beach in the mid-1960s would appreciate some peace and quiet while they surf and meditate about what’s happened to their dreams of peace and love.

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SNAKE SANCTUARY

Even if you’re a lover of reptiles, we’re guessing the idea of a 43-hectare island covered in more than 4,000 highly poisonous snakes might take the edge off your passion. Just 20 miles from the shoreline of Brazil’s São Paulo, Ilha da Queimada Grande or Snake Island, is home to the Golden Lancehead Viper, a snake so deadly its venom can eat through flesh. Every few years, a brave group of biologists venture here to do research on the creatures, but the Brazilian government has banned all other visitors.

POVEGLIA’S GHOSTS AND GHOULS

To say that the small island of Poveglia, in the Venetian lagoon between Venice and Lido, has had a tragic history is an understatement. Once home to a fort and a shipping checkpoint, the island was best known as a misery-filled quarantine station for victims of the Bubonic Plague. If that wasn’t bad enough, the island was then used as an asylum from the early 1900s until the facility closed in 1968. Apparently, the unhappy spirits of all those who died refuse to leave the island, giving Poveglia the dubious distinction of being one of the most haunted places on earth. Ghosts of plague victims, war victims and even the malevolent spirit of a murderous asylum doctor wander the hospital ruins and the deserted shores. Looking for real estate? The Italian government offered a 99-year lease for the island in 2014, but they’ve yet to have any takers.

SEED SAFETY NET

If you could manage to get yourself to the Norwegian island of Spitsbergen, approximately 1,300 kilometres from the North Pole, you’d find yourself near one of the world’s most valuable storage vaults. There, buried more than 122 metres into the side of a towering mountain, a 1,022-square-metre facility protected by highly advanced security systems houses a precious collection, one few people will ever see. Inside the vault are 840,000 samples of 4,000 different species of seeds, collected from all over the globe. In case the world ever experiences a global ecological disaster, the seed bank will be there to provide a safety net and a means of beginning again. Designed to work like a safety deposit box, organizations and governments “deposit” seed variations and are the only ones able to access them. No matter how avid a gardener you might be, you’d never get past the highly advanced security systems.

Illustration by Laura García

DEADLY NORTH SENTINEL ISLAND

WHERE’S THE WORLD’S BEST LUXURY SPA?

Top travel designer Eirini Demetelin from international luxury travel company Travel Edge had a hard time picking one spa as her favourite. But the Montrealbased expert ultimately went with Canyon Ranch in Tucson, Arizona. “It’s a Virtuoso-choice wellness resort I consider life altering,” Demetelin tells BOLD. “There, you can change the way you’re living and feeling through fabulous nutrition programs, spiritual wellness sessions, incredible spa treatments—everything from watsu aquatic massage to a prickly pear pedi—and lectures and consultations with talented medical professionals. The natural beauty of the Arizona desert, the warm weather and all the outdoor sports—there’s everything you need for the ultimate spa getaway. Best of all, if you follow through when you get home, the changes you’ve made will be lasting.” canyonranch.com

BOLD QUERY HOW DO I PROTECT MYSELF FROM PICKPOCKETS? Beware of one of the most clever tricks, the “helpful stranger” gambit. Someone accidentally bumps into you in a crowded area, spilling a drink on your clothing. “So very sorry. All my fault,” they say, eagerly helping to wipe up the mess and causing just enough distraction to keep you busy, while their nearby partner snatches your wallet or bag. If an “accident” happens, politely refuse help, move away quickly and go to the nearest bathroom to mop up the spill on your own.

VACUUM PACKING

When every inch of luggage space counts, don’t pack air! Vacuum seal bags (available in the closet organization section of department stores) can reduce a pile of space-gobbling underwear, socks, bathing suits and more to a slim packable unit, all with a simple squeeze. You’ll especially appreciate this trick when watching bulky, down-filled outdoor gear shrink to half its original size. For smaller items, a jumbo Ziploc bag, rolled to expel air, will do a great job and help you to maximize your packing space.

SOUNDS LIKE THE REAL TICKET

Rodney Williams, co-founder of the Cincinnati-based technology startup Lisnr, has big plans for replacing paper and even online airline boarding passes with a sound alternative—literally. Williams explains that currently, airline tickets require a QR code, which opens the door to fraud. “I can screenshot it,” he says. “I can share it. It’s one of the reasons why you still have to use your ID.” Williams’s plan is to use sound to create a ticketing system with the flexibility of QR codes but with far greater security. Similar systems already in use in India are proving very useful in the mobile wallet world. Lisnr will transmit data in the same way, but using ultra-sonic audio, which will be a dozen times faster. Sounds like we’ll be hearing about further developments soon.

NO-MUSS SUMMER FROLICKING Cottage life is anything but back to basics when you let someone else handle the planning.

PERCENT

OF TRAVEL PLANNING THAT’S DONE BY WOMEN.

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PERCENT

OF ALL CULTURAL, ADVENTURE OR NATURE TRIPS THAT ARE TAKEN BY WOMEN. — Stats from Forbes magazine

PERCENT

INCREASE IN THE NUMBER OF WOMEN-ONLY TRAVEL COMPANIES IN PAST SIX YEARS.

Muskoka, Ont.-based Jayne’s Cottage Concierge Services will line up everything: luxury car services to get you to and from the high-end vacation properties she suggests and books; private chefs and shoppers to provide whatever your taste buds might desire; housekeeping and child care; water entertainment rentals ranging from boats to fishing tours, trampolines, slides, jungle gyms, kayaks, canoes, stand-up paddle boards, seadoos and flyboard instruction; hot tub rentals, yoga classes and in-cottage massage treatments. All you need to do is pack your bathing suit and sunglasses! jaynescottages.com

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BY CARLSON WAGONLIT TRAVEL

DISPATCHES FROM CWT INSIDERS: The new, the cool and the experiences we canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stop talking about. BOLD Traveller Promotion in partnership with

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Travel and destination knowledge When it comes to travel, the advice of a travel advisor is worth its weight in gold. Sure, your friends and networks may have suggestions and stories of their experiences, but travel advisors don’t just have stories, they have solutions. They have the time and knowledge to listen to your needs, and then find and build the right experience for you. They have travelled the world and work closely with hotels, airlines, package providers and destinations so that they can provide you with a complete picture as they pinpoint the right vacation for you.

Access to the best value and deals

Your travel guardian angel ANNE-MARIE MARAIS

ears ago, travel advisors were the only way you would book travel. But with the birth of the Internet and booking travel online, many people turned to self-serve. However, as life gets busier, with work, family and other commitments, we feel pressed for time. And even though we may have felt like booking our own travel online was quicker, it just isn’t anymore. When we look at our lives, we do what we can to make them more efficient and easier by finding those who can more effectively manage tasks for us. Why wouldn’t we look to the expertise of a travel advisor to help us create memorable travel experiences for our families, friends and ourselves? Travel for pleasure is not just the booking of a flight. There are hotels, activities, restaurants and experiences, plus the paperwork, like visas, that must be considered and managed. When I was embarking on the trip of a lifetime to Australia and New Zealand, I looked to the expertise of a travel advisor to find me the best deals and organize the various parts of my journey. With all the international and domestic flights, ground travel, accommodations, experiences, activities and paperwork necessary for such an important journey, I knew that a travel advisor was the way to go. I didn’t want to try to keep all of this organized while I was busy working to make the money to afford such a trip, nor did I have the expertise to make this trip all that it could be. My CWT Travel Advisor made me feel important, and I was glad that they were joining me on the planning of this travel journey. Throughout the process, her excitement grew, as did mine. And it was good to know that she was there managing the planning and bookings, while working with me to ensure all my needs were being met. From first-time travellers to experienced travellers like me, using a travel advisor gives you peace of mind and opens you up to a world of destinations that you might not have previously considered. We have become accustomed to booking our travel online, but as mentioned, many of us are returning to working with a travel advisor and this is why.

CWT Travel Advisors have relationships in every sector of travel. It’s these connections that they use to help find the best deals and trips to meet your needs. These advisors are on your side and want to create the perfect vacation for you, at the best price to fit your budget. Different from when you book your travel online, travel advisors take care of all the legwork and they save you time and money. With your requests in mind, they hit the ground running to find and provide you with a variety of options. By working with a travel advisor you don’t have to spend hours online putting together what you think will be a perfect vacation. They have the insider tips that can help you with things like picking the right time of year to travel or telling you about the perks and benefits of one location over another, plus they usually have other tricks up their sleeve. From something as simple, yet beneficial, as free room upgrades, to shipboard credits, they can give you what faceless online travel booking can’t.

Service We all like to be treated well and feel special. When you book online, you’re just a credit card number. However, when you work with a travel advisor, they provide a service that can make your life and travel so much simpler and less stressful. They have travel knowledge like no one else, and they can find you the best deals while making sure that all is covered

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throughout the travel booking and enjoyment phases. Just imagine being able to tell someone what you’re looking for in a travel experience and they take care of it all. Maybe it’s a cruise you want to take. An advisor will take the time to listen to what you’re looking for and provide you with the options that will fit your taste and style. CWT Travel Advisors know how to provide the service that creates hassle-free travel planning.

Ensuring you’re covered and giving you peace of mind—before, during and after Unlike booking online and hoping for the best, travel advisors have only you and your best vacation in mind. They understand all the fine print in those terms and conditions, and know what visas and other documents you’ll need. And most importantly, they can work with you to find the right insurance to ensure coverage while travelling. When you book your travel with a travel advisor, ensure that they are associated with TICO/ACTA. With these certifications you can know that your travel advisor is working within a fair and informed marketplace so that you can be confident and protected with your travel purchases. Additionally, you as a consumer will receive professional and meaningful travel counsel from your advisor. As customer service is job one for travel advisors, they are just a phone call away for any of your questions or concerns. From A to Z, your CWT Travel Advisor is with you and ready to support you through this vacation experience. It’s like having a travel guardian angel in your corner who is watching out for you and wants only for you to have the best vacation possible.

FOR FURTHER DETAILS AND RESERVATIONS, CONTACT A CWT TRAVEL ADVISOR OR CALL 1.800.CARLSON

WORTH TRAVELLING FOR

INDOORS OUT

Moss Hotel, Blue Lagoon, Iceland

very year, hundreds of thousands of visitors slip into the steamy mineral-rich waters of Iceland’s Blue Lagoon, which might be considered the world’s largest outdoor hot tub, created by geothermally heated seawater flowing into an ancient lava field. Now they’ll be able to make their entrance from the privacy of their waterside room. The stunning five-star Moss Hotel, which opened its luxurious 62 rooms this spring, is just the second hotel to be located on the 800-year-old lava flow adjacent to the lagoon. Touted as “erasing the boundary between nature, wellness, hospitality and affluence,” some rooms have direct access to the lagoon, while all have floor-to-ceiling windows with stellar views. retreat.bluelagoon.com —LIZ FLEMING

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Bold Issue #46 We live for Summer

Articles inside

A Walk Above the Clouds

Sensuous Seville

Epicurean Island

Takin' it to the streets

Bridge to Modernity