Fall Travel Inspirations (Bold Magazine Issue 47)

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CONTENTS FALL 2018

In This Issue 48 HELLO KITTIES!

The story of pan-Asian style is a multilayered conversation between destinations like Taipei, Hong Kong, Tokyo and Seoul. You can witness it on runway, but Vawn Himmelsbach has discovered it’s better to hit the streets

54 A VERY BROOKLYN SITUATION

In New York City’s Williamsburg, Sarah Treleaven finds that hipsters who, a few years ago, would have been happy with a Pabst Blue Ribbon have refined their palates and their sense of style

60 COMING UP FOR AIR

In the far north of Germany, the seaside retreat of Sylt attracts the Deutsch jetset and those in need of rejuvenation and reinvigoration, writes Nancy Truman

66 TENNESSEE HOMESICK BLUES Nashville is the home of country music, but for Waheeda Harris, it’s more important as the stomping grounds of Dolly Parton

71 Isn’t Just a Great Golf Round at Sea Island!

71% sunny days in January

•

71º average high temperature in February

(And zero snow days)

fishing Stream lf u G e and r-shor e, nea r o 6 h s In

Three ch ampion ship golf courses

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CONTENTS

14

20 41

Also in This Issue 12 EDITOR’S NOTE 14 EDITOR’S ITINERARY: When you’re

40 LOCAL EXPERT: Alessandro Balestra of Montage Los Cabos on the pleasures of Baja California Sur

searching for style, it helps to set yourself amongst the style leaders

41 INSPIRED BY… Mandarin Oriental Milan

16 CONTRIBUTORS

42 GLOBETROTTER: The Shaw Festival’s

20 COCKTAIL CULTURE: A beginner’s tour of London’s cocktail experts

22 DRINK: A classic Jamaican rum, an

organic farm and great company

71

FALL 2018

24 STAY: West Hollywood’s new Kimpton La

Peer delivers comfort and style amidst the L.A. sprawl

26 WANDERLUST: The disconnected

Tim Carroll shares his travel philosophies

71 INSIDER’S GUIDE: Our little black book on where to stay, what to eat and what to do in Vienna

76 TRAVEL INTEL: The best cities for bleisure, plus other news 82 WORTH TRAVELLING FOR:

Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort, Thailand

pleasures of train travel

28 ROAD TRIP: Three of Canada’s most beautiful waterfront drives 30 TRAVEL TWO WAYS: Whether by the sea or in the jungle, Bali never disappoints

32 FOOD DIARIES: The life of chef Ryan Campbell in photos

35 CRUISE: A roundup of the most luxurious round-the-world journeys 36 WEEKENDER: The weirdness of Portland, Oregon, just got chic-er

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EDITOR’S NOTE

In search of the latest style The first time I visited Los Angeles so many runway seasons ago, I expected to find myself at the beating heart of brash, disposable American-style conspicuous consumption. While that may have been true—in L.A., the consumer truly is king—the Angeleno displays of status did not take any form I recognized. At a time when people in other cities were wearing brands blazoned across their chests, eyeglasses and belt buckles, the people I saw on my tour of trendy clubs were logo-less, signalling their fashion savvy by means I could not recognize. It was their peers, other Californian movers and shakers, they were trying to impress and it didn’t matter if a Canadian thought their outfits looked kinda meh.

Back in West Hollywood recently to visit the chic new Kimpton La Peer Hotel (the story’s on page 24), I saw that, in these days of globalized fashion, L.A. style forever remains ahead of the curve. Electric rental scooters have become the new hipster accessory, signalling a cheery celebration of the sunny West Coast weather, mixed with an impatience with traffic and the government’s sluggishness at combating it.

Style has always been in dialogue with the world and the times. In this issue, Sarah Treleaven visits another fashion epicentre, Brooklyn (page 54), which has most definitely grown up, while Vawn Himmelsbach traces the cultural currents of the latest wave of pan-Asian style (page 48). On a much more relaxed excursion, where yoga pants might suit just fine, Nancy Truman visits the resort island where that German jetset retreats for the eternal pleasures of spas and brisk walks (page 60). Elsewhere, Waheeda Harris gets up close and personal with a style icon who needs no introduction (page 64).

While social media, Instagram especially, tickles our senses with visual delights, true style also plays out in touch, taste and smell.

The texture of bed linens in a favourite hotel or the sound absorbency of a wooden feature wall reflect the creativity and skill we expect from master designers.

In a lecture I once attended, Toronto artist and writer Maggie MacDonald argued that the answer to the downside of consumer culture— overconsumption and overflowing landfill sites—was not to shun material things, but to love them more dearly, to take objects more seriously and consider their entire lifespans. That also goes for how we show our love to our favourite destinations: with great care, respect and attention to long-term sustainability. The answer to the clamour of our modern times is more thoughtfulness, as well as joie de vivre.

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EDITOR’S ITINERARY

2016 exhibition runs from October 7 to January 6, 2019, offering up the most comprehensive West Coast exhibition to date of the work of Adrian Piper, featuring more than 270 works from the wide range of mediums that Piper has explored for over 50 years.

Piper shaped the form and content of Conceptual art since the 1960s, exploring political, social and spiritual themes with humour and wit.

Check out dazzling, rare artifacts used by the boy king himself at the King Tut: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh exhibit, on display at the California Science Center to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the discovery of King Tut’s tomb.

UNIQUE EXPERIENCES

A pop of pink in L.A.’s Mural District.

Whether you travel for food and culture, for glamour or for the outdoors, Los Angeles is a city that truly has it all. Cool skyscrapers are situated amongst rolling hills with amazing hiking trails, while the beautiful beaches have waves surfers dreams about. A modern city set against breathtaking natural spaces, anyone can have the ultimate Los Angeles experience on any type of budget. Enjoy a fancy meal at one of the city’s top restaurants or hit up L.A.’s abundant food truck, food hall and strip mall scenes for cheap eats. With plenty of free things to do, an art scene that extends beyond museums and the potential to rub shoulders with the stars, you can have a taste of every kind of lifestyle. Los Angeles is a city you won’t want to miss.

Time to redo your bucket list, L.A. STYLE 14 boldmagazine.ca

Celebrating graffiti’s movement from vandalism to contemporary art, Beyond the Streets is the premiere exhibition of graffiti, street art and beyond. The first Banksy piece to be revealed in seven years is on display amongst paintings, sculptures, photos, illustrations and more, in a 3,700-plus-square-metre space.

The Hammer Museum’s Adrian Piper: Concepts and Intuitions, 1965-

Image courtesy of Los Angeles Tourism.

MUST SEE

Established in 1901, the Angels Flight railway has carried millions of Angelenos up and down the steep incline of Bunker Hill. Though the 100-metre trip only lasts 30 seconds, it is believed that Angels Flight has carried more passengers per mile than any other railway in the world, making it not only the shortest in length, but also the most travelled. The “world’s shortest railway” has been in more than 100 movies and tons of TV shows, including La La Land where Ryan Gosling and Emma Stone take a romantic ride.

Lost Spirits is an incredibly creative and critically acclaimed distillery, famous for its innovative processes.

The company produces rum and whisky with the taste of decades-aged spirits in only a few days. Plus, the everexpanding grounds offer a whimsical, Willy Wonka-esque experience, transporting consumers into a theatrical universe involving talking computers, jungle boat rides and a deranged carousel.

Clifton’s Republic, a legendary, 83-year-old Los Angeles landmark—the oldest surviving cafeteria-style eatery in L.A. and also the largest public eatery in the world—recently reopened in 2015.

Its five storeys offer an immersive and truly distinct hospitality experience, fusing seasonal Californian ingredients with classic dishes, alongside museumquality natural and scientific artifacts.

EXTRAORDINARY STORIES “I love to inspire others with my photography to go explore more of the outdoors”

FEED THE NEED TO TRAVEL with

JAMIE JUSTUS OUT ADVENTURE PHOTOGRAPHER ®

AND AVIONER

AND DISCOVER THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND EXPERIENCES THAT MAKE A TRIP UNFORGETTABLE. TURN TO PAGE 44

Cover photo by Oliver Sjöström

CONTRIBUTORS FALL 2018

ON THE COVER The famous Handara Bali gates lead the way to adventure.

Marlon J. Moreno Publisher + Editorial Director Luis Chavez Vice President, Operations Pina Russo Chief Digital Officer Paul Gallant Executive Editor Liz Fleming Associate Editor, Digital Magda de la Torre Americas Editor CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Victoria Bass • Elizabeth Chorney-Booth • Jay Fleming Liz Fleming • Vawn Himmelsbach • Ruth J. Katz Doug O’Neill • Sarah Treleaven • Nancy Truman ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN Laura García PHOTOGRAPHY Tishan Baldeo WEB DEVELOPER Rahul Nair

48

60

35 & 71

VAWN HIMMELSBACH Writer

NANCY TRUMAN Writer

LIZ FLEMING Associate Editor, Digital

HELLO KITTIES!

Vawn Himmelsbach is a Toronto-based writer and editor who developed a love of travel after three years of solo backpacking in Asia; and she’s been on the road ever since. As a regular contributor to travel and lifestyle publications, her travels have taken her to some of the world’s most exotic locales, from the cobblestone streets of old Tbilisi in Georgia to the ancient Guge Kingdom in western Tibet.

COMING UP FOR AIR Nancy Truman is a Toronto-based travel writer.

A summer in Europe as an au pair sparked a passion for meeting people and enjoying new cultures and food. Her pieces have appeared in the National Post, Vancouver Province and Toronto Sun.

AROUND THE WORLD IN A STATEROOM & INTEL Liz Fleming has explored the globe from the Arctic Circle to the lost Incan world of Machu Picchu. She’s worked as a syndicated Canadian Press columnist and had her articles appear in major newspapers and magazines across North America. Editor-in-chief of Cruise & Travel Lifestyles magazine, she’s passionate about introducing her fellow explorers to the adventures waiting from pole to pole.

SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Juan Felipe Galán ADVERTISING & SALES United in Change Media Yvonne Xenidis Chief Revenue Officer 416.624.5496 yvonne@unitedinchange.com MEDIA SALES PARTNER Linda Angellotti 416.831.6069 linda@unitedinchage.com For Lifestyle and Co-Branded Partnerships, Promotions, Reprints and Sponsorships inquiries marlon@morenoco.com • luis@morenoco.com Phone: 1.416.323.7828 extension 25 PUBLIC RELATIONS AGENCY Jesson + Company jessonco.com info@jessonco.com 77 Bloor St. West, Suite 1200 Toronto, ON M5S 1M2 CORRESPONDENCE The Hudson Bay Centre 20 Bloor St. East, P.O. Box 75075 Toronto, ON M4W 3T3 BOLD ® is published bimonthly by Moreno & Company Inc. Opinions expressed in BOLD® are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers.

BOLD® does not assume liability for content.

All prices quoted are in rounded Canadian dollars, accurate at press time, unless otherwise noted. www.boldmagazine.ca

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INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS

AGENDA SEE. EXPERIENCE. HEAR. SHARE. GO.

Drink Britannia!

WHERE TO TIPPLE IN TRUE LONDON STYLE

boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA

[ COCKTAIL CULTURE ]

A CITY OF CONTRASTS, LONDON IS SIMULTANEOUSLY THE CRADLE OF POMP, PAGEANTRY AND HISTORY, WHILE ALSO A BIRTHPLACE OF MANY THINGS GROUND-BREAKING AND CUTTING-EDGE. YOU MAY STILL ENJOY A SIMPLE FEED OF FISH AND CHIPS AND A PINT, BUT TODAY LONDON IS ARGUABLYTHE GASTRONOMIC AND TIPPLING CAPITAL OF THE WORLD. HERE ARE JUST A FEW PRIME SPOTS TO IMBIBE IN STYLE. ANITA DRAYCOTT REPORTS

Clubbing it The Langham London was opened in 1865 by HRH The Prince of Wales as Europe’s first “Grand Hotel.” The Grand Dame has since welcomed such illustrious guests as Emperor Louis Napoleon and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, who used it as a setting for several Sherlock Holmes mysteries. Membership in Langham’s club comes with perks like breakfast, afternoon tea and evening canapés, fine Champagne and a selection of wines and cocktails. Although London features more than 3,500 pubs, many serve mediocre microwaved pub grub. Not so at the Langham’s Wigmore tavern. Order a pint of their very own Saison beer and a Scotch egg with an Indian twist. langhamhotels.com

The planet’s best bar?

In 2017 the American Bar at The Savoy was named World’s Best Bar. To toast the marriage between HRH Prince Harry and Meghan Markle, they created The Royal Welcome, a blend of Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto, Bombay Sapphire gin, Champagne syrup, yuzu, Peychaud’s bitters and English sparkling wine. fairmont.com/savoy-london A most manly tea The Sanctum Soho on Warwick Street has created Gent’s Afternoon Tea. The ultimate indulgence for the peckish man, it includes tempura oyster, meaty savouries, scones and clotted cream, brownie, Chantilly cream and strawberries, a tankard of Jack Daniel’s Gentleman Jack and a cigar on the rooftop. sanctumsoho.com

Bird’s eye views Climb aboard the Coca-Cola London Eye, the world’s tallest Ferris wheel and you’ll have 360-degree views of famous landmarks such as Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament. But did you know that there are beverage packages? You can add a glass of Pommery Brut Royal Champagne to your ride (which includes priority boarding) or enjoy a gin and tonic with access to the preboarding lounge. londoneye.com

Ginstitute 101 Arrive at The Distillery on Portobello Road where your Gin Instructor will have a Tom Collins waiting. Learn about the long and often miserable history of the spirit from its origins as a medicine to its current “ginaissance.” In the Still Room, choose the botanicals to define the gin you will make and then take home. theginstitute.com

COCKTAIL CRAWL Eating London’s Twilight Soho Food Tour is a moveable feast that proves that Londoners know how to party. First stop is Bodega Negra for tacos and margaritas.

At the London Gin Club, enjoy a G&T with gin-infused beef pie. Cured Spanish hams and cheese are on offer at Enrique Tomas. At Pix Bar, try Basque tapas called pintxos with sweet white wine. At Opium, drink a Champagne cocktail served in a teapot and tuck into dim-sum dumplings. Your final stop is Basement Sate for a tequila-spiked nightcap and a decadent hazelnut praline pastry. eatinglondontours.co.uk

The Savoy’s Royal Welcome cocktail is named in honour of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle.

20 boldmagazine.ca

because of your rich colonial history

GRANADA Located near the shores of Lake Nicaragua, Granada is one of Nicaragua’s most important cities historically and is currently one of the nation’s tourism hubs. Founded in 1524 by Francisco Hernandez de Córdoba, Granada has a rich colonial heritage, seen in its architecture and structure. Pictured here, Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral - built around 1525.

Ostensibly the first European city in mainland America, the city of Granada was not only the settlement of the conquest, but also a city registered in official records of the Crown of Aragón, and the Kingdom of Castile in Spain.

AGENDA [ DRINK ]

A

WHERE RUM’S THE THING A 270-year-old distillery drops SARAH TRELEAVEN into an unexpectedly enchanting evening

22 boldmagazine.ca

At a certain point, the bus won’t go any further so we get out and walk. High above the beaches and far from the resorts, we are on the top of one of Jamaica’s many jungle-covered mountains—not the first place I would have looked for dinner in a tropical paradise.

But Stush in the Bush, a small organic farm that’s grown into an elegant restaurant and event space, has become a destinationdining paradise (the owners call it “sexy vegetarianism”) that’s well worth the trek.

As soon as we arrive, one of the owners, Christopher, a handsome dreadlocked man of indeterminate age, takes us on a tour of the medicinal corner of the farm, where he and his partner, Lisa, grow lemongrass for detox purposes, allspice leaves for an upset stomach and aloe vera for pretty much everything else.

We mingle over cocktails on the top of this mountain, surrounded by thick brush but never far from a spectacular view over the Jamaica’s northern coastline. I feel like I’m a long way away from Jamaica’s superb but no-fuss roadside jerk spots.

Dinner is served in a modest wooden building with two long communal tables, a small library, a wood-burning fireplace and a peaked tin roof that provides a particularly lovely soundtrack when a warm rain briefly falls. The tasting menu is comprised of vegan dishes made almost entirely from the produce and herbs grown on the farm, including a playful amuse bouche of watermelon tartare—meant to mimic tuna—on crostini and topped with chopped scallions, activated charcoal fettuccini with a rich Puttanesca sauce and a rich flourless chocolate cake.

All dishes are paired with Appleton Rum, from a spicy Dark ’N’ Stormy to straight-up aged sipping rum. It’s very appropriate, given that rum is pretty much the national drink.

Roadways are dotted with small “rum shops,” basic structures serving up rum, soft drinks, fried plantains—and walls decorated with pictures of near-nude women. As one frequent visitor describes, when building a house in Jamaica, there are three things that need to be secured in advance: all four corners of the building, a goat to be sacrificed and rum for the workers.

When we finish, Christopher and Lisa send us off with a farewell love letter, describing the romantic story of how they met. A decade earlier, they became smitten when Lisa, a teacher from New York City, was on vacation in Jamaica, and they made a series of impulsive decisions that led to them living together on Christopher’s family farm before it had any running water.

Lisa had the idea to grow boutique greens— baby kales and chards and whatnot—just as that kind of thing was becoming fashionable, and they found an easy market at the upscale hotels that line Jamaica’s coast. Then they were asked to host a dinner one night, and the rest is history.

As they tell this story, they both appear radiant, possibly due to the power of their everlasting love, and probably at least partially because their diet largely consists of micro-greens and gingersorrel smoothies.

In fact, the whole place had a bit of an ethereal quality, a dream-like sequence that seemed less and less possible as we descended the steep hill and returned to the familiar beachside landscape of Ocho Rios.

Most visitors to the Caribbean turn, understandably, toward the sea. But there’s a little slice of paradise among the clouds if you know just where to look. stushinthebush.com

THE MASTER BLENDER’S DREAM Delicious food is abundant across Jamaica, but, in some ways, rum is the heart and soul of the country. This year, Appleton Estates, the oldest continuously run distillery in Jamaica, with roots going back to 1749, opened a brand new visitors centre in St. Elizabeth parish.

The Joy Spence Appleton Estate Rum Experience is a US$7.2 million, 24,000-square-foot facility named for the woman who holds the position of Master Blender. She’s a first in the spirits industry. With interactive experiences inside and out, visitors can learn about the process of distilling rum, from sugarcane juicing to aging.

They can also enjoy rum tastings, buy rum-related souvenirs and sample spicy Jamaican jerk barbecue. appletonestate.com

boldmagazine.ca

23

AGENDA

[ STAY ]

WeHo Confidential KIMPTON’S NEWEST HOTEL OPENS IN THE LITTLE CITY THAT’S L.A. AT ITS HUGGABLE BEST

24 boldmagazine.ca

Photos by Jose Banuelos

A

t first, the stretch of La Peer Drive between Melrose Avenue and Santa Monica Boulevard doesn’t strike a visitor as the most obvious base for a glamorous Los Angeles visit. There’s a lumber store, an upholstery place and—of course, this is L.A.!—a film production company that doesn’t look like much from outside. But the Kimpton La Peer Hotel, which opened its doors in January, is, in fact, at the epicentre of Los Angeles chic.

Steps from the most of-the-moment fashion and design boutiques on the continent, the 105-room boutique property sets out to be something of a salon and crashpad for the best of Southern California’s creative culture. The tiled entryway on the Art Deco building gives it a keepsake-box feeling, while the gorgeous, art-filled spaces by Icelandic-Californian Gulla Jónsdóttir are as delightful as they intimate, with a lobby full of playfully comfy furniture looking out onto an elegant terrace bar and lounge. A visitor could easily spend hours and days soaking up sun and cocktails by the pool, imagining the Hollywood deals and indulgent dinner plans being made all around them. While Kimpton La Peer is right in the middle of the TMZ (L.A.’s “thirtymile zone” where so much celebrity gossip occurs), the place is amazingly devoid of attitude; the paparazzi—one night during my visit there were half a dozen of them outside the nearby celebrity haunt Craig’s—might as well be on another planet.

La Peer is the new kid on the hotel block in West Hollywood, but it makes a great metaphor for the city itself: an easygoing and stylish solution to the conundrum of visiting Los Angeles.

Sure, the second biggest city in the United States has lots of attractions, beaches, great shopping and fantastic eats. It’s long been a destination for starstruck movie fans. But there’s that nagging problem: L.A.’s a sprawling, traffic-jammed city where

OPPOSITE PAGE: Kimpton La Peer’s artsy reception desk; the chill-out lobby.

ON THIS PAGE: The La Peer bar; a light lunch at Viale dei Romani; there’s nowhere better than poolside WeHo.

the cool is spread out. Visitors need to have a clear idea of what they’re going to see and do, and how they’re going to get there. For example, while the best galleries, such as The Broad in downtown, the Getty Villa in Malibu or the new Marciano Art Foundation in Central L.A., are free, they all require advanced, timed tickets and are miles and miles from each other. Los Angeles stubbornly remains an insider’s city, where a visitor rarely just stumbles onto fun.

The exception: West Hollywood. A tiny municipality of about 37,000 people, covering less than five square kilometres just east of Beverly Hills, WeHo is maybe the only place in Los Angeles where you can go out for a walk and, without trying, find a great place to eat or drink. Located midway between western beach communities like Santa Monica and Venice, and rapidly gentrifying downtown L.A., WeHo’s a hop, skip and Uber from most of L.A. cool.

Until it was incorporated in 1984, WeHo was mainly known as a lightly policed stretch of Sunset Boulevard and Santa Monica Boulevard, the place you could find booze during prohibition, where speakeasies stayed open late. Marilyn Monroe, who liked a good party (perhaps too much), lived here in the early 1950s.

Charlie Chaplin’s former acting studio, now repurposed as the intimate V Wine Room, was also here.

Starting in the 1940s and ’50s, WeHo also became a place where gay and lesbian people could be themselves away from the watchful eye of the overzealous LAPD. Over time, the LGBT connection also made WeHo a magnet for all sorts of creative types, whose ingenuity and business acumen lured rich and famous shoppers and partiers from staid Beverly Hills and other parts of L.A. The late interior designer Phyllis Morris, famed for her high-end custom furniture, launched her career here in 1953 with her Poodle Lamp, which she delivered to clients in her convertible pink Cadillac. Morris’s daughter Jamie Adler now runs the company and is in the process of taking it to the next level with a real-estate deal that could transform WeHo. “I’ve lived my whole life in West Hollywood,” Adler tells me one night over cocktails and sushi at Catch LA, a scene-y rooftop spot with a view of the grandly chunky red, green and blue Pacific Design Centre,

WEHO ESSENTIALS EAT An upscale bistro for the avocado-toast crowd, The Henry has quickly become a neighbourhood haunt since it opening last spring. It’s got the cocktails and vegan options you’d expect in WeHo, but they also work magic on ahi tuna and wagyu beef. thehenryrestaurant.com Hollywood stars and star makers hang out at Cecconi’s on Melrose, but the modern-day Italian on the menu is equally attention-getting. Side note: What might be the cheeriest ever Damien Hirst artwork hangs in the private dining room on the way to the washrooms. cecconiswesthollywood.com

where many of California’s top designers have their HQ. Adler is one of the principals behind the Robertson Lane project, a proposed mixed-use restaurant, hotel, retail and event space complex that would create a pedestrian lane between La Peer and North Robertson Boulevard, a street that’s already home to fashionable restaurants and boutiques.

The project makes Kimpton La Peer’s location seem extremely prescient. There’s even talk of turning a stretch of Robertson Boulevard into a pedestrian zone—a daring proposition for L.A., but not so crazy in progressive, pedestrianloving WeHo. The creative problem-solving that makes West Hollywood such a fun and easy destination also ensures that it’s an everchanging one. And in trend-driven L.A., that’s exactly what visitors expect.—PAUL GALLANT

Short of getting invited to a mansion hanging off the slopes of The Bird Streets neighbourhood, the rooftop of The London offers one of the best views of L.A.’s west side—and the east side on a good day. The hotel’s poolside Boxwood on the Roof restaurant has just the right mix of scene, cocktails and raw-bar bites. thelondonwesthollywood.com DO Walking takes too long, driving is a pain. If you want to see West Hollywood and neighbouring Beverly Hills up close and personal, take a guided electric bike tour with Bikes & Hikes LA. The aerobic and green approach will make you feel better about your unhealthy obsession with celebrity gossip. bikesandhikesla.com boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA [ JOURNEYS ]

TRAIN OF The slower pace of rail travel, SARAH TRELEAVEN, THOUGHT writes adds to the joys of just staring

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he night I boarded The Canadian, the iconic train that travels from Toronto to Vancouver, the train was already running several hours behind schedule. I went to bed immediately upon boarding and when I woke up the next morning, we had lost even more time.

But what I didn’t anticipate was just how little the time seemed to matter once onboard. Very quickly, the days simply stretched out before me, punctuated by the occasional meal, making conversation in the lounge, hopping off the train in small towns for very brief stops, indulging in an Old Fashioned in the bar car, and then being lulled to sleep every evening by the sounds and motion of the rails.

The road trip is a well-worn Canadian pastime, but a train can provide a similar adventure without the stress of driving. Around the world, there are daytime and overnight rail routes that wind through mountains, stretch towards eastern inlets or offer stops across spectacular landscapes or major urban centres, allowing passengers to stop and sample. You can gaze through the glass tops of sleek bar cars while taking in the spectacular natural scenery, dine on gourmet meals or recline in a roomy armchair and relax with a book until it’s time to retire.

Canada offers two truly luxurious options. The Rocky Mountaineer pairs rail travel with overnight stays in some of Canada’s most iconic five-star Fairmont hotels; the food and wine is heavily regional (with menus curated by some of Vancouver’s top chefs) and the glass-top viewing cars are plush and spacious.

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out windows

“I loved the opportunity to just step off into the unexpected”

The second one, VIA Rail’s all-inclusive Prestige class, which I took, offers cabins with queen-size beds (complete with crisp white Frette sheets and adorably tiny but highly functional ensuite bathrooms), personal concierge service, access to a VIP lounge, room service and soft leather loungers in front of panoramic windows.

Aboard the Canadian, my days were pleasantly full but never felt too busy. Shortly after waking, I headed to one of the old-fashioned booths in the dining car for a full breakfast before staking out a spot in the glass-top panorama car. The train stopped often—sometimes somewhere but often in the middle of nowhere—and I loved the opportunity to just step off into the unexpected.

In Winnipeg, where we stopped to load and unload passengers, we spent about 90 minutes wandering a downtown market and walking alongside the river—not enough to become local experts, obviously, but enough to satisfy curiosity.

But the best part was just staring out the window. While I loved the rocky, forested terrain of northern Ontario and the golden, gently rolling fields of the Prairies, the truly show stopping landscapes arrived when we crossed into Alberta and then British Columbia. You take a massive risk going by often-delayed sleeper car. We passed through Jasper National Park—arguably the most stunning mountain landscape on the journey—in the middle of the night. But crew consoled us by noting that we would see the spectacular Fraser Canyon by day, a portion of the itinerary that’s typically scheduled for pre-dawn hours.

I had heard from many people that this trip really brings home the expanse and diversity of the country. That felt true. As the train slowly made its way across a track that’s a key part of Canada’s history, what really struck me was the patience this trip nurtured. The schedule was permanently delayed (we made it into Vancouver almost 12 hours late), there was no WiFi to rely on, and activities were limited. But there was a comfort and ease in simply taking a seat in front of the big window, with either a mug of coffee or a glass of wine, and just watching the world unfold.

GET THE MOST OF TRAIN TRAVEL

LIFE-CHANGING TRAIN JOURNEYS

PACK ACCORDINGLY While you can procure all of your food, beverages and general necessities aboard a long train journey, consider packing snacks for between meals, reading materials, a tablet or laptop for watching movies and warm socks for curling up in a lounge chair.

VENICE-SIMPLON ORIENT EXPRESS This is the classic luxury train trip, winding between London, Paris, Verona and Venice.

Perfect for anyone who wants to feel like they’re in an Agatha Christie novel. Expect plush Art Deco furnishings, well-mixed martinis and white-glove service.

PLAN SOME EXTRA TIME IN YOUR FINAL DESTINATION When we arrived in Vancouver, I didn’t want to get off the train. I certainly wasn’t ready to go home. I was happy I tacked on a few days to explore Vancouver instead of heading straight to the airport.

MAHARAJA’S EXPRESS These once-in-a-lifetime journeys are a great way to travel across northern or southern India.

Cabins (named after precious gems) combine modern conveniences with classic Indian style.

Unwind over a glass of Champagne in the Safari Bar, or dine on Indian and international cuisine at the two restaurants.

PLAN TO RELAX You might think that a long train trip is the perfect place to finally get some uninterrupted work done, but that’s not exactly the way life on the rails works. Instead, prepare to be absorbed by the scene unfolding outside your window and to make conversation over meals and evening cocktails with people from all over the world.

BELMOND ANDEAN EXPLORER South America’s first sleeper train has beautifully designed interiors that reflect Peruvian culture, and an observation car with an outdoor terrace. Menus incorporate Peru’s remarkable natural ingredients, and off-train excursions include a visit to Lake Titicaca and lunch on a private beach.

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AGENDA [ SHORE DRIVE ]

Shore Things THREE ESSENTIAL DRIVES ALONG CANADA’S MOST STORIED WATERWAYS

Get off the Hike the Skyline Trail here

Fancy homes and chic shops

official trail and

head to Meat Cove Catch the ferry to Newfoundland

around here

Living history

in Louisbourg

S

ome of Canada’s most beautiful drives are also some of its most storied routes. Following the water’s edge on or near our three ocean coasts, we can trace a history of Indigenous culture, European settlement, how this country has changed and the nature that never seems to change. —PAUL GALLANT

CABOT TRAIL, NOVA SCOTIA When John Cabot (aka Venetian explorer Giovanni Caboto) arrived in Cape Breton in 1497, the Mi’kmaq had been there for almost 10,000 years. You can see why early Scottish settlers felt at home here—the west side evokes their native highlands—while the Acadians tended toward the more gently rolling east side. The construction of the road circumnavigating the island, completed in 1932, helped connect Cape Breton’s isolated fishing villages to the world, and made it much easier to enjoy their charms. cabottrail.travel INSIDER TIP: Leave the trail itself and drive up through Cabot’s Landing Provincial Park to take in the spectacular views around Meat Cove.

PROCEED ON FOOT: Jump out of your vehicle for a two- to three-hour hike on Skyline Trail.

ST. LAWRENCE RIVER, QUEBEC Get off the dull Trans-Canada Highway to explore the 1,197-kilometre river that’s the very lifeline to the heart of North America. French navigator Jacques Cartier arrived here in 1534 and within a few hundred years, the fertile land adjacent to the river was sectioned, Frenchstyle, into long, narrow strips of farmland.

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The Bas-Saint-Laurent on the south shore and the Charlevoix on the north contain some of the finest eating in La Belle Province.

INSIDER TIP: It’s almost 10 hours of driving, plus a 90-minute ferry ride, to circle the north and south shores between Quebec City and Rimouski. Highway 138 along the north shore through Charlevoix is considered more scenic, but the south shore has more things to see and do.

CYCLING THE SEAWAY: The 40-kilometre Circuit des Églantiers, part of Quebec’s Route Verte, takes cyclists through charming towns and along charming waterfront vistas. cyclingquebec.com HAIDA GWAII, BRITISH COLUMBIA The beautiful mostly oceanside drive from the Village of Queen Charlotte to Haida Gwaii’s North Beach can take as little as an hour and 40 minutes. But the adventure of touring this remote and magical archipelago (also known as the Queen Charlotte Islands) by vehicle begins long before heading north on Highway 16. The drive from Vancouver to Prince Rupert takes about 17 hours, then there’s the eighthour ferry.

INSIDER TIP: The southernmost island is accessible only by floatplane or boat. If you go independently, you must pass an orientation, offered every day in the summer in the port town of Skidegate. pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/bc/gwaiihaanas EXPLORING THE WILDERNESS: From North Beach, walk through the rainforest for the 30minute hike up Tow Hill, which guards over the shoreline and the spectacular views.

One of the coastal views on Haida Gwaii.

AGENDA [ TRAVEL TWO WAYS ]

SPIRITUAL IN UBUD RETREAT OR RECHARGE? HERE, TWO DIFFERENT APPROACHES TO MAKING THE MOST OF BALI

BY VICTORIA BASS

MANDAPA, A RITZ-CARLTON RESERVE, UBUD

I

ntense green strikes in contrast to deep sky blue.

Rainforest, rich with plant life so profuse it seems straight out of pre-historic times, collides with the white water of the river. Monkeys leap from tree to tree, looking for their own brand of daily mischief. Away from Bali’s beaches, and into the inland jungles of Ubud, is where I get the vibe.

There’s a low hum, like a mantra, into which my body has tuned. At Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, I’m given a glimpse of ultimate luxury meets privacy meets remoteness: A one-bedroom villa, complete with its own infinity pool, overlooking the Ayung river below. Rafters paddle by, their hollers and commands the only sound breaking the deafening roar of the birds, and the bees, and the breeze, rustling through the flowers and the trees. I perch on my elbows, and watch them go by. One of them looks up, spies me and waves. I wave back, smile and push away from the pool’s edge. Suspended in the water, I look to the sky. Blue fills my view, jungle green in my periphery.

Ubud is a sanctuary for yoga enthusiasts, for seeing wildlife such as the island’s monkey population and for those seeking that feeling of being unplugged. In town, not far from Mandapa, are strings of shops selling all manner of meditative accoutrements, including the riotous print baggy pants that shouldn’t be worn anywhere else but Ubud. Local restaurants with groundbreaking chefs tap into the area’s bounty of organic ingredients to serve residents opting for plant-based diets.

One restaurant in particular, Locavore, capitalizes on farmto-table, ethically raised and eating local, current buzzwords of the dining scene. Chef Eelke Plasmeijer brings his Dutch sensibility, merging it with his partner chef Ray Adriansyah’s Indonesian roots to create a uniquely Ubud style cuisine.

Mackerel mixes with duck egg, Hamachi gets a caffeine fix cured in local coffee and herbivores have their own menu, too. Banana mingles with pickled shallot, while shoots, flowers and leaves are foraged from the surrounding area for just-picked-today crispness on the palate.

And this is the beauty of Ubud. It is a fresh escape, a healthy journey into the heart of Bali. ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/indonesia/mandapa

SEASIDE IN NUSA DUA

THE ST. REGIS BALI RESORT, NUSA DUA

T

he sun is setting. Flames dance in front of our eyes.

Spinning, drawing circles in the air, leaving a trail of gold, only to fade out and reignite into the next spark. Torches are held high, moving through the dark, in a nightly ritual called the Fire Dance. It’s a visually arresting Balinese tradition that heralds the end of the day.

We’re near the southernmost tip of Bali, on a stretch of peninsula called Nusa Dua. The area is known for its resorts, a built-up complex of hotels and villas that run the gamut from Novotel to the St. Regis, where, by the way, we’re experiencing this Fire Dance performance.

By day, the hotspot is the water. The beaches are pristine, stretches of fine sand for strolling and Indian Ocean surf that’s good for swimming, kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding. There’s the odd surfer, too, and me. The view of the great big blue is unfettered; from my beachside lounger at the St. Regis Bali, I’ve got a front-row seat to serenity for the mind and vitamin D for the body. Just off the limits of the resort’s private stretch along Geger Beach, Balinese children are dipping a toe, some laughing and shouting and running along the sand, while others dive right in. Some are climbing up the cove to visit the Geger Temple. It’s been raining, but today the sky is clear, the sun is hot, the salt-dusted sea air restorative. There are few Westerners taking advantage on this day, making my solo stint during shoulder season a luxury beyond even the experiences the St. Regis can provide. But provide the resort does, with villa suites seemingly floating in a large salt water lagoon that winds its way through the property.

The sun begins to dip in the sky. The Fire Dancers will soon begin their nightly greeting of the dusk. But there’s time to indulge a little in a glass of champagne in the King Cole bar terrace, inspired by the original that the Astor family built in the flagship St. Regis property in New York City. Complimentary canapés arrive at table to enhance the bubbles, and suddenly a drum sounds from below.

The torches are lit, the drumming thrums and the dancers begin their swing. It’s hypnotic. Though it’s difficult to follow the golden trails left by the flames, it’s nearly impossible to take our eyes away from the spectacle. stregisbali.com boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA [ FOOD DIARIES ]

Bandit’s lair

When long-time Buca chef RYAN CAMPBELL decided to open his own Italian eatery, he couldn’t have imagined how long it would take to realize his vision

I

n January, Ryan Campbell made the leap from being a chef to being a chef/co-owner when, with partner Giuseppe Marchesini, he opened Il Covo on Toronto’s College Street. Over the years, Italian restaurants have gone in and out of fashion in the city’s Little Italy, and their cicchetti menu—small Venetian-style dishes intended for sharing—both fits in and stands out. Part of the team that opened Buca King Street and Buca Yorkville (Buca’s where Campbell met Marchesini), Campbell does, in fact, have ample startup-kitchen experience. But with Il Covo, he took particular pleasure in helping create the dining-room décor. The name translates as “hideout” or “lair,” so the atmosphere is mid-19 th-century Italian cowboy saloon. “Giuseppe is from Basilicata, in the south of Italy,” says Campbell. “In his hometown there used to be bandits and even to this day, some of these bandits are folk heroes, so we wanted to evoke that.”

What gave Campbell, who is from Ajax, Ontario, his affinity with Italian cuisine? When he started his career as a sous chef at North 44, the menu encompassed Japanese, French, Spanish, Italian and other influences. That allowed him to figure out which he liked best. A trip to Italy confirmed it. “I realized Italian food was something I could eat and cook every day and be happy,” he says. —PAUL GALLANT

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1. This is my all-time favourite food photo, stella di ricotta in brodo, which is buffalo ricotta cheese, mixed with ground parmigiano reggiano, whole eggs and a little bit of nutmeg. It’s baked in the oven and then we cut out a star shape, put some fresh-picked thyme on it and pour this broth on top. The broth is a very clear chicken broth. It’s so clear it doesn’t look very flavourful, but when you drink it, it is. It’s all about underwhelming and overdelivering.

2. That’s Sarah Fiore [just after she was named one of the Top 30 Under 30 by the Ontario Hostelry Institute], simply because of how proud of her I am. She started off as a co-op student at Buca on King Street and was known for working her ass off. She was in school full-time, living in Vaughan and working full-time.

The majority of her training is savoury, but she has a great knack for creating pastries.

3. That’s my sister. We’re very close, always have been.

We’ve been lucky to have a great friendship ever since we were kids. She’s always been so supportive. She’s a super emotional girl who will cry if she’s happy and she was so proud to eat in my restaurant, that she knew I’d do one day and I finally did it after so many years of hard work. If I remember right, she has the insalata liquida, the ippoglosso, halibut with smoked pine-nut milk, and the tramezzino fritto.

4. Everybody was waiting for the restaurant to open and it took a long time. We had to fire a contractor from the job. When the plates came in, it was a big step—we’re almost there. So this was the first photo I shared to let everybody know we were close. They were all custom made by Patrick Young Ceramics. They’re sincerely artisanal things; his hands are on every single dish. A lot of people say food is art and we do plate things to have things work a certain way. So the plates are almost like a canvas that I can create on.

5. That’s my main partner Giuseppe and I. He’s the general manager and sommelier. Getting that green pass, which allowed us to bring food into the restaurant, was a big, big day.

Giuseppe and I had so many headaches getting to that point, over about a year. We feel like we experienced every problem possible. Everything single you can point to in the restaurant, I have a story about how difficult it was to get it done. To have a smile on our face that day was a big accomplishment.

6. I lived for a year in Rome after living in Lombardi in Northern Italy. These days I can’t get enough of Rome. But when I lived there, they were very tough times. As Italian is not my native tongue, I had difficulty working in kitchens, where English isn’t really spoken, and it took me a long time to find a home. I lived in a hostel for three months while working 16 hours a day, six days a week and I’d be living with five or six people in my room and people are pretty much having a party every day. Looking back, I miss those times. I have different problems to deal with these days, different challenges. boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA [ WANDERLUST ]

CAPE ADVENTURE ON THE SOUTHERN TIP OF AFRICA, THREE SPECTACULAR DAY TRIPS OUT OF CAPE TOWN INTRODUCE YOU TO ANIMALS, NATURAL BEAUTY AND A LITTLE CARDIO TEXT AND PHOTO BY JAY FLEMING

THE BIG FIVE For many visitors, the high point of any trip to South Africa is a wildlife excursion, and Kruger National Park is known as the go-to safari location for big game.

The trip to Kruger, however, is a long one, requiring overnight stays and a flight to either Durban or Johannesburg. If you’re hoping to see the “Big Five” (lions, leopards, rhinoceros, elephants and buffalo), but don’t have the time to get to Kruger, check out the Aquila Private Nature Reserve, just a two-hour drive from the Cape.

The roads are a bit rough, and the truck doesn’t take bumps slowly, but the experience of being mere metres away from some of Africa’s largest animals is a humbling and inspiring moment. The reserve offers half-day, full-day and overnight safari experiences. Even the half-day includes a buffet lunch, a two-hour safari drive, four of the big five and a ride back to Cape Town before sunset. aquilasafari.com

PENGUIN PATROL Cape Point, the dramatic stretch of coastline where the Atlantic and Indian oceans collide, is a stunning spectacle. The jagged rocks of Cape Point froth at the edges from the ocean’s waves, and beyond the rocks is an endless skyline. The next piece of “land” to the south is Antarctica.

The day includes two hours to roam the park, taking in a wide array of scenery and animals, including baboons, springbok, ostriches and any number of lizards. The park is also home to the smallest, but most diverse of planet Earth’s six kingdoms of flora: Fynbos, the plants that

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form the natural scrubland of the region. And then there are the penguins ....

City Sightseeing’s day tour picks up travellers in an airconditioned bus in the morning for transportation to the park.

Guests can explore with or without the guide. The hike up to the lighthouse provides the best view of the coastline and wildly churning oceans below.

After a few hours in the nature reserve, the bus turns back to the Cape, with a pit stop at Boulder Beach, known for its famous African Penguin colony. This naturally occurring colony of penguins frolic happily—and very photogenically—on the beach. citysightseeing.co.za

SUNRISE HIKE Cape Town sits in the shadow of Table Mountain, a dominant rock formation that’s a magnet for both tourists and locals. But no visitor should miss Lion’s Head, the less-climbed cousin.

This mountain juts defiantly from the earth in a sharply pointed contrast to the flat features of Table. For a truly spectacular experience, get to the base of Lion’s Head an hour before local sunrise time, and climb all the way to the top. The climb is moderate difficulty, and should take no longer than 75 minutes.

In those early morning hours, the crowds are thin, and the views of the city and coastline below are staggering. Since the path winds 360 degrees around the mountain, you’ll be overlooking the shimmering city lights, as well as Camps Bay beach and the magnificent coastline below.

AGENDA [ CRUISE ]

AROUND THE WORLD IN A STATEROOM WHAT THE MOST LUXE SHIPS HAVE IN STORE FOR YOUR ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME CRUISE If you have a couple of hundred thousand dollars burning a hole in your pocket, you likely have enough for you and your favourite companion to enjoy a top-of-the-line round-the-world cruise. The term “world cruise” is a bit of a misnomer, since ships don’t sail completely around the world, but instead visit most major tourist areas, beginning and ending in some of the world’s great port cities.

Generally offered by premium or luxury lines, world cruises tend to use smaller, more intimate ships with itineraries typically stretching from 100 to 180 days, with as many as 40 days at sea. —LIZ FLEMING THE SHIP

SILVERSEA SILVER WHISPER silversea.com THE DATES: January 6, 2020

THE ITINERARY 62 ports, including Papeete (Tahiti), Mumbai and Dublin, in 32 countries visiting all seven continents

THE ULTRA-LUXE OPTION A two-bedroom suite of 117 square metres, including the veranda and marble bathrooms

MUST EXPERIENCE Wander the ruins of Ephesus, an ancient Greek city on the shores of Turkey

THE VOYAGE: 140 nights

CUNARD–RMS QUEEN MARY 2 cunard.com

46 ports in 24 countries, with overnights in Hong Kong, Cape Town and Dubai

Huge duplex with two marble baths and private exercise equipment

At sunrise, photograph Lisbon’s stunning Tower of Belém, built in memory of Portuguese explorer Vasco de Gama

47 port cities in 23 countries, with overnights in Sydney, Singapore and Mumbai

The space includes dining area, guest bathroom, living room veranda, private workout area, powered by hightech entertainment systems

Feel the rugged landscape and the salt sea air seep into your senses while hiking mountain trails in Norway’s majestic fjords

THE DATES: January 10, 2020 THE VOYAGE: 134 nights

CRYSTAL–CRYSTAL SERENITY crystalcruises.com THE DATES: January 6, 2020 THE VOYAGE: 104 nights

PRINCESS–PACIFIC PRINCESS princess.com THE DATES: January 5, 2020

43 ports in 26 countries, with 12 late-night stays in places like Melbourne, Phuket and Tahiti

Stunning master bathrooms with whirlpool tub; floor-toceiling sliding glass doors to a private balcony

Photograph your own face in the reflecting pool in front of India’s most fascinating architectural masterpiece, the Taj Mahal

THE VOYAGE: 111 nights

REGENT–SEVEN SEAS MARINER rssc.com THE DATES: January 24, 2020

66 ports in 30 countries, including New Zealand, India and Guatemala, on six continents

Two expansive bedrooms, living area, marble bathrooms and balcony

Tour the wine cellar and see the art collection at the the 13 thcentury Il Borro Tuscan Villa and Village

THE VOYAGE: 131 nights

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STYLE [ WEEKENDER ]

ARTISANAL EVERYTHING

THIS SPREAD: The splendid atrium at The Nines Hotel; fitness buffs on the Eastbank Esplanade.

THOUGH OREGON’S MOST FAMOUS CITY PRIDES ITSELF ON ITS WEIRDNESS, IT’S NOT HALF-BAD AT CHIC, EITHER

THIS PAGE FROM TOP LEFT: A wall of beer at Hopworks Urban Brewery; a mural imitates life at Oaks Bottom Wildlife Refuge; the lobby at the Hi-Lo Hotel; Portland’s famous food carts; the Koi Pond at the Japanese Garden; pizza at Pioneer Square; a rooftop view; crossing the esplanade; the Portland Mercury Wall at Powell’s City of Books. OPPOSITE PAGE: The city’s signature White Stag sign.

Photos courtesy Travel Portland

A

s I lounge in my guest room at the boutique Hi-Lo Hotel in downtown Portland, it’s delightfully obvious that I am surrounded by the exact kind of trendy chic for which the Pacific Northwest city is known (and lovingly teased). The ultrahigh exposed ceiling reveals the building’s early-1900s pressed-concrete construction.

A feature wall, which conceals a modern clean-lined bathroom, is made from exquisitely weathered wood, stamped with a logo from a local reclamation company to ensure it’s not mistaken as faux-distressed manufactured product. I glance out the window and see, among the rows of white terra cotta-clad buildings in various states of restoration, exuberant rainbow-haired 20-somethings headed off to Pride events, fitness enthusiasts jogging along the sidewalks and smiling tourists carrying lavender hand-dipped ice-cream cones from the nearby Pine Street Market.

The Hi-Lo—the name references the contrast of “highbrow” fashion and “lowbrow” vintage industrial details— feels like a microcosm of the city itself.

Portland’s position as a beacon of hipster culture is well earned. Tucked away in the Pacific Northwest, the cost of living is less expensive than fashion hubs like New York, Los Angeles or even nearby Seattle, allowing more space for independent creativity to blossom. The surrounding forests, nearby coast and expanses of Oregon farmland have long attracted nature lovers and artisans, as well as misfits who never quite fit into the more financially cutthroat corners of America.

Gentrification has certainly reshaped Portland over the decades, but not too much— the city is friendly and safe, but still feels thrillingly unpolished. As I walk, shop and eat my way through town, I can’t help but notice how Portland embraces its quirks, celebrating a juxtaposition of modern luxury and homespun culture—both the “high” and the “low.”

Portland’s famed food and drink culture reflects this aesthetic. The city is, after all, the birthplace of culinary icon James Beard; his lingering impact is indelible. Oregon is a major producer of Pinot Noir grapes, beer hops, hazelnuts, heirloom fruit and vegetables, and cattle and dairy products, all of which inspire local chefs and food artisans. There are independent eateries, bars, cafés, fancy donut shops and food carts lining every commercial street, both downtown and in eastside areas like the restaurant-rich Division neighbourhood.

(Home to the justifiably hyped Pok Pok Thai restaurant—expect to wait in line, possibly for hours, but it’s worth it for the food, the cocktails and the ramshackle ambience.) At Tusk, an eastside Middle Eastern restaurant, I giggle at a menu promising “aggressively seasonal” cuisine. Yet those two words sum up Portland food to a T. On the high end, I visited the opulent Nines Hotel, which is located in another gleaming downtown heritage building, in this case, formerly a ritzy Meier and Frank department

store. The Nines is home to two highly rated restaurants: the Asian-inspired rooftop Departure and the rustic-cool Urban Farmer Steakhouse.

Both redefine the concept of “hotel restaurant” by taking advantage of The Nines’ rooftop garden and bee apiary, in-house fermentation programs and the hotel’s close relationships with Oregon farmers and producers.

Over on the “lower” side, I can’t ignore the city’s ubiquitous food carts. Unlike other locales’ polished food trucks, which often offer precious and overpriced versions of street food, the Portland carts are the real deal. Permanently positioned on the edges of urban parking lots, a typical cart will specialize in a type of global cuisine, without bells and whistles. There is no pretense—just affordable servings of tacos, Korean barbeque, Indian curries, Ghanian rice bowls, Japanese noodles and pretty much every other food imaginable.

While just about every restaurant in Portland

offers a local selection of boozy beverages, there are also plenty of places to go primarily to drink.

High-end cocktails abound at Pépé le Moko, a 36-seat downtown basement bar. Walking through the door, I am told to expect a “four- to five-hour wait” (Portlanders have a notorious willingness to line up for drinks, brunch, ice cream or just about anything else). Once inside, at last, I learn that the bar’s classic cocktails and speakeasy vibe are worth it. Nestled underneath an old hotel in a tunnel-like room designed to accommodate antique water systems, Pépé embodies both glamour and grit; it makes me feel like an instant Portland insider.

Copious eating and drinking are a definitive part of any Portland experience, but even temporary Portlanders have to balance that consumption with some fresh air and physical activity. Almost every local I talk to says they like to get out of town to go hiking or biking whenever they have free time, but there’s also plenty of natural wonder within the city limits. Washington Park is a massive green space west of downtown that encompasses the Oregon Zoo, the World Forestry Centre, the International Rose Garden and, my escape destination of choice, the 4.9-hectare Portland Japanese Garden. Another uniquely contrasted experience, the carefully designed and manicured gardens offer a blend of rugged Pacific Northwest greenery and painstakingly landscaped Japanese traditions, earning it bragging rights as

the most authentic Japanese garden outside of Japan.

I take a short but steep hike up Mount Tabor, a volcanic cinder cone on the east side that offers a panoramic view of the entire city. Kieron Weidner, a local tour guide, points out Portland’s extreme greenness.

“You don’t really see any houses among the trees from up here—but you’re looking at densely populated areas,” Weidner says. “People move here specifically for that greenness.”

We gaze at what essentially looks like a field of green surrounding downtown—it is hard to believe that that canopy of trees is concealing thousands of homes and businesses. After breathing in in the clean Pacific Northwest air for a minute, Weidner concedes that we’ve earned ourselves some ice cream.

For those who prefer urban hiking, most of Portland’s neighbourhoods are best experienced on foot, all the better for stumbling upon the treasures lurking on every side street: more bars and restaurants, used bookshops, independent boutiques and art galleries, as well as an endless supply of interesting and friendly Portlanders.

As I walk downtown with yet another artisanal ice cream cone, a man outside the local Scientology centre launches into a enlistment pitch, but smiles and lets me pass with a wink when he spots my melting cone—it seems even religious recruiters have respect for the cult of Portland’s food scene and don’t want to see a $5 cone go to waste.

A few blocks down the road, a single intersection is home to such visitable spots as the world’s largest independent bookstore (the overwhelmingly massive Powell’s City of Books), a bustling pizza joint and a high-end denim boutique—with anything from a protest by Anonymous to an ad-hoc barber chair occupying a portion of the public square in-between. It’s that coexistence of the high, the low, the weird and the wonderful that makes Portland such a rare treat. —ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

PORTLAND ESSENTIALS SLEEP Portland is full of funky and comfortable boutique hotels, often in refurbished heritage buildings. The Hi-Lo’s central location makes its plush lobby a great spot to sit and people watch. hi-lo-hotel.com EAT The epitome of Portland quality and relaxed style, downtown’s Tasty n Alder does fresh dishes family-style, with an emphasis on charcuterie boards, big salads and locally sourced steaks. tastynalder.com SHOP The self-proclaimed “home for badass women,” the cheeky Wildfang boutique specializes in bold graphic T-shirts and menswear-inspired trousers and button-up shirts. wildfang.com

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STYLE

[ LOCAL EXPERT ]

CAPITAL CABO

IN HIS NEWLY ADOPTED HOME OF B A J A C A L I F O R N I A , T H E M O N TA G E ’ S ALESSANDRO BALESTRA HAS QUICKLY BECOME AN INSIDER After growing up in Switzerland and working in Dubai, Maldives and Spain, Alessandro Balestra returned to the country where he was born just three years ago, establishing a new home in the Mexican state of Baja California Sur. Currently in the role of manager of experiences and communications at Montage Los Cabos, he works in PR, social media and in creating new out-of-the-box experiences for hotel guests. Since opening last spring, the stunning 16-hectare beachside property on the Los Cabos corridor has already attracted notice in The Hollywood Reporter. Celebrities love Montage for its super-private accommodations and, in addition to 122 guest rooms and suites, the new resort has 52 luxe residences. For his job, and out of a personal passion, Balestra’s made it his mission to discover the best of the area. “Now my local friends ask me where to eat and what to do,” he laughs.

“I think when you come from outside, you see things from a different perspective.” So, we just had to ask him to tell us his favourite things in Baja. montagehotels.com —PAUL GALLANT BEACH Make the two and a half hour drive from Los Cabos to La Paz, and then head to Balandra Beach. The beauty is incomparable; it seems like the colours of the bay have been handpainted. It’s the most crystal clear water I’ve seen in Mexico and it’s safe to swim because the waters of the Sea of Cortez are not so rough. It’s very quiet, but if you walk in the shallow water past the parking area, you find beaches where there are even fewer people.

Bring your own food because there’s not much around.

C O C K TA I L S There’s a building in the city centre of San José del Cabo with two of my favourite places. Downstairs there’s La Revolución Comedor, which is a place to go before or after dinner. Many of the cocktails are mezcal-based, made with fresh local ingredients.Then you can go upstairs to Dalton Gin Bar. It’s on the rooftop, so you have beautiful views of the Art District and the church. If you talk with the bartender Juan Pablo, he’ll make a drink to your taste. larevolucioncomedor.com; facebook.com/ daltonginbar TA C O S It’s a bit of a cliche to think of tacos when you think of Mexican food, because there’s so much more than that, but the tacos at La Lupita Taco & Mezcal in San José del Cabo, are excellent. It’s rustic chic and they have a great selection of regional craft beers and a great selection of mescal. Costra de Pastor tacos is my favourite. The tortilla is made of cheese. It’s not very diet-friendly but it’s worth every single calorie.

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MUSIC & DANCING Mixology Fusion Bar in San José del Cabo is my favourite club. During the week it’s a restaurant and turns into a club on Friday and Saturday. It’s a little bit hidden. There’s no sign outside and you need a password [which you can get from their Facebook page] to get in. It has electronic music and really good drinks. They sometimes bring in DJs from overseas. facebook.com/ mixologyfusionbar ADVENTURE Snorkelling with the whale shark, which can be done in La Paz. The best season to do it is October to May. They only allow three boats per shark. When they spot the shark, they stop and you put on the snorkelling gear and go out and swim. People get nervous about it, but they’re actually very gentle. You can’t touch the shark or the tour will be instantly cancelled.

JEWELRY At Manuel Sanchez Jewelry in San José del Cabo, the designer is local and he only works with the best silver from Taxco.

You can meet him and bring him and an idea and he can create it for you. You can also get a pink tequila as a special treat. manuelsanchezjewelry.com ESCAPE La Fortuna is located on the East Cape, a beautiful town right on the beach where you can go surfing. Bring an ice cooler box with cervezas and ceviche and watch the stars.

There’s no cell-phone reception so you can live in the moment with your friends.

STYLE

[ FASHION ]

Inspired by

MANDARIN ORIENTAL

MILAN

CRAZY. RICH. ASIAN. YET IT’S IN MILAN THAT WE’RE FALLING FOR OUR LATEST FASHION INSPIRATION It’s not just the capital of Italian style, it’s also the capital of cool. The industrious fashionistas are always on the lookout for what’s new and what’s next, with a nod to what’s real and ready to wear. All with a Northern Italian twist, naturally. But what’s this?

Throw in a bit of Asian fusion, a destination within the city that transports one to another continent, and you have what could be the perfect ingredients for an ahead-of-the-curve dolce vita.

At the centre of the city, just a stroll away from La Scala, and walking distance from the Duomo, the world’s most storied and still unmatched Teatro alla Scala, the Mandarin Oriental Milan is a cultural home base. Fans of the brand include the diva Cecilia Bartoli. Located in the fashionable Quadrilatero Della Moda district, the four historically significant 18th-century buildings that make up the architecture of the property are only an introduction to the city’s unique mix of business-meets-design-meets-pleasure.

Classic Milanese courtyards are framed by calming interiors with sumptuous Oriental touches. The well-honed level of service is what you’d come to expect from the venerable hotel group.

After a night or two, you may say ciao, but you won’t want to say goodbye. Grazie, bellissima! —VICTORIA BASS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Danse Lente hexagonal bucket bag.................

Acne Studios checked coat.............................

Roberto Coin Roman Barocco sunburst drop earrings……….....................................................

David Yurman single stack bracelet……............

Vivienne Tam red lace dress…………...................

Acqua Di Parma Rosa Nobile eau de parfum (50ml)……..........................................................

Tory Burch booties.…………................................

$495 $2,050 $5,900 $1,450 $3,300 $140 $398 boldmagazine.ca

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STYLE

[ GLOBETROTTER ]

A RO U N D T H E WO R L D W I T H A r t i s t i c D i r e c t o r

Tim Carroll

F

or his second season as Shaw Festival’s artistic director, Manchester-raised, Oxford-educated Tim Carroll brought in the big guns. Or rather, a singularly big gun. English comedian, actor, writer, activist and icon Stephen Fry gobbled up the notices and headlines with the world premiere of his sprawling and funny three-play Mythos trilogy. But Carroll, successor to the much-loved Jackie Maxwell, who ran the place for 14 seasons, has more than one trick up his sleeve. C.S. Lewis, Sherlock Holmes, Henry V and a Canadianized version of Chekov’s The Orchard got their time on the 2018 stages, demonstrating how elastic the mission of the festival—to celebrate the work and spirit of writer George Bernard Shaw—has become.

Where in the world have you felt happiest?

Don’t know about happiest, but the only selfie I have ever taken was outside the Sydney Opera House, to prove that I once directed a show there.

To get away from it all, I go to: The Aveyron, in France, the country where God put all the best things: wine, cheese, rivers, valleys….

Which is your favourite hotel and why?

The Ayasofya in Istanbul. It’s right next to one of the world’s great buildings, in one of the world’s great cities.

Confession time: name one thing you’ve taken from a hotel.

Only the usual.

What’s the one thing you pack for every trip?

My super-versatile plug adapter. Except when I forget it, and then I hate myself.

Who is your favourite travelling companion?

My daughter Grace. We sit in restaurants reading our books in companionable silence.

“Long story, complete with strip searches, people jumping out of moving vehicles”

What’s your essential item for making travel more comfortable?

A meaty book. Makes delays a pleasure.

What’s your guilty pleasure while travelling?

I’m trying to give up chocolate, but there’s something about the airport….

Which is your road most travelled?

London to Budapest, where I have directed seven shows and made lifelong friends.

Who is the most interesting person you’ve met on your travels?

Myself. Every country I go to seems to bring out a different version of me.

What inspires you to keep exploring?

Greed. I have amazing memories and I want more.

What would be your trip of a lifetime?

India. One day.

I lost my heart in…

Southern Ontario. Still haven’t got it back.

Which travel experience most changed your worldview and why?

Working in Romania and then Norway challenged my liberal assumptions—in different directions.

Tell us about a time when you got lost or otherwise knocked off course.

Well, there was the bus from London to Athens that was supposed to take three days and took a week. Long story, complete with strip searches, people jumping out of moving vehicles, armed police, miscarriages, breakdowns in frozen mountain passes and more. Buy me a drink and I’ll tell you.

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EXTRAORDINARY STORIES WELL TRAVELLED

“I love to inspire others with my photography to go explore more of the outdoors” JAMIE JUSTUS OUT

ADVENTURE PHOTOGRAPHER AND AVIONER ®

CAPTURING

THE MOMENT

C

ultural exploration. Limitless adventure. Joyful discovery. Those of you who love to travel, to go beyond your borders (yet, at the same time, go deeper into your own backyard), you are a true traveller and these words are a part of your language.

And for true travellers, the need to feed your wanderlust is a part of who you are.

Taking in the sights, then going further–the history, the locals, the traditions, immersing yourself in the who, what, why and how of where you are, in the moment. A moment that will last a lifetime in your memories. The tastes, the smells, the sounds of where you are fuel the passion for discovery of a new destination, or a more meaningful rediscovery of a timeless favourite place, somewhere you’ll return again and again. We have a name for these travellers – we call them Avioners ®

One of these Avioners® is Jamie Justus Out, an adventure/nature photographer who finds inspiration in the great outdoors—and hopes his work will inspire others. “For me, the outdoors is all about helping find balance in a world of fast-paced living, media bombardment and self-satisfaction. There is a connectedness that is difficult to describe, but one that allows for introspection and peace,” he says.

“I take photographs as an excuse to get outside and document those times. Having a memory or memento to look back on is fine, but even if I wasn’t doing photography I would still be seeking those times away from the crowds.”

As a photographer, Out finds himself travelling to the far-flung corners of the earth to get that perfect shot. Like earlier this year, when he visited seven countries in eight days—including a whirlwind 30 hours in India—to shoot a music video and short documentary. But it’s made easier with an RBC Infinite Avion® card, Avioners ® can travel without flight restrictions on over 130 airlines with no blackout periods.

For Out, adventure isn’t necessarily about zip lining or paragliding.

It’s about pushing your comfort level, just enough so it doesn’t turn you off from ever trying something new. “Adventure travel is all about finding something you’ve never done before and attempting it,” he says.

“Maybe it’s trying a new food or taking your first surf lesson, it really doesn’t matter. It’s all about having fun and creating lasting memories.”

His passion for travel—and for the great outdoors—started at an early age. Growing up in Salmon Arm, B.C. (the type of town that expands to twice its size in the heat of summer’s tourist season and shrinks back to a hibernation state in winter), he was surrounded by lakes and mountains, with endless opportunities for adventure.

As a boy, he spent much of his time outdoors, building forts, riding his BMX through the woods, hiking to small lakes near his house.

Even then, he recognized something special about connecting with nature in a real and tangible way. Now 35, Out lives in Vancouver with his wife and three-year-old son. A former elementary school teacher, he switched careers to focus on photography, inspired after a year teaching in China with his wife.

At the time, he wanted to document their travels for family and friends, so he started a blog called China by Day and began posting photos to Instagram. But his eye for stunning imagery gained a bigger following than first expected. “Photography was never on my radar as a creative outlet, but I started to enjoy it and gained a small following while travelling,” he says.

So when they returned to Canada, Out decided to pursue photography more seriously—and make the transition from a secure job to something much more uncertain and risky. “Having a family makes it even more challenging, but having control of my own time is something that I’m excited about and know will pay off,” he says.

Out feeds his need for travel by living simply and collecting experiences over material possessions. “I think the biggest part of travel is immersing yourself in the culture as much as possible,” he says. “I love trying out new foods, attempting to speak the language, meeting the locals and, most of all, respecting the ideals and beliefs of the people.”

It means being flexible, and not always planning out an itinerary.

“Don’t make your list so long that you’re disappointed if you don’t get around to everything, or pass off new opportunities that present themselves. I often plan trips around certain photo spots that I know I want to shoot and always leave extra time to just explore when I get there,” says Out. “I’ve had some of the most unique dining experiences or visited incredible hole-in-the-wall restaurants by asking advice from fellow travellers or the locals.”

As an Avioner®, he relates to the philosophy of empowering others to get out and experience the world around them.

“I love to inspire others with my photography to go explore more of the outdoors,” he says. “Whether it’s travelling all the way across the globe, or finding the beauty in their everyday surroundings, I hope that people take the time to escape the busyness of their lives and discover the beauty and peacefulness of nature. I think our world needs more of that now than ever.”

About to take off on a trip? Tag @RBCAvion and use #Avioning to be feature on our Instagram Channel.

Avioners® Can Do That.

BOLD Partnerships

EXTRAORDINARY EXPERIENCES

FEED THE NEED TO TRAVEL: Discover the people, places and experiences that make a trip unforgettable. with

INTO THE NEW

BOLD Partnerships

A

n intrepid traveller knows that in this world, there are still plenty of paths less travelled, destinations yet to be discovered by tourists.

How do we satiate our wanderlust and feed the need to travel and seek out the unknown? Of course, we’re not suggesting going to extremes. It’s more about easing into the undiscovered and using the experts to help us get there. A destination such as Morocco, in Africa, where legend and beauty and wonderful cultures and stories cities such as Marrakech call for exploration.

Travel rewards programs can help you do that. Take the RBC’s Visa Infinite‡ Avion® card, for example, as your guide to exploring the unknown: it brings the world in focus, and makes it even easier to just go.

BOLD Partnerships

When some of us think of Marrakech, we think of swaying palms moving to the breeze that’s laced with the scent of orange. Silvery leaves of olive trees glisten in the desert sun, while the backdrop of the Atlas Mountains do their best to throw some shade, while proudly maintaining their snowy caps. It may seem cliche, but here in Northern Africa, the oasis that is the Fairmont Royal Palm is real.

It is removed from the city’s hustle and bustle but not quite remote.

The medina and marketplace, the pulse of Marrakech, is just 20 minutes away. Stroll among the spices and the fabrics and the foods cooking on the grill, and immerse yourself in the Red City’s daily life. At the end of the day, retreat to the resort. Surround yourself in nature. Take a dip in the generous-sized swimming pool, taste local and global cuisine prepared by top chefs or practise your golf swing, before hitting the links the next day, surrounded by stately palms.

In fact, 2018 marks the first year the Fairmont Royal Palm hosts an internationally ranked Pro Am golf tournament.

The beauty is that the property is also a conduit to Morocco. The sights, the traditions and the culture of the country and of the Red City itself, is easier navigated with a hotel-arranged guide—and serves as an easy introduction to the warm and welcoming nature of the people and their unique brand of hospitality. Museums and galleries will satiate an art and history lover, while a day at the Medina or a stroll through the property’s organic farm perusing ingredients may inspire a recipe for a cooking class at the hotel that will whet the culinary traveller’s appetite—for food and adventure. Children, too, can learn about Moroccan art, food and culture, through activities lead by friendly locals with a creative knack for sharing stories, in their own designated kids club.

There’s nowhere quite like Morocco; not another place quite like Marrakech. The imperial city glimmers in the desert heat, inviting a closer look.

OPENING PAGE: The Fairmont Royal Palm lobby. THIS SPREAD: Interior decor of Le Caravane Restaurant and the Spa.

Want to feed your need to travel? As an AVIONER® you can do that.

Discover how an RBC Avion card makes it easier to explore the places you’ve always wanted to go – or revisit a culture that’s made a difference in your life.

rbc.com/avion

H E L L O

K I T T I E S! Having absorbed (and perfected) Japan’s culture of cuteness, Taiwan is ready to join Seoul and Hong Kong on the global runway, reports VAWN HIMMELSBACH

EVA Air’s Hello Kitty–inspired check-in counters.

I

t’s easy to get lost in the labyrinth of corridors at the Songshan Cultural and Creative Park in Taipei, a former Japanese tobacco factory built in the 1930s. But you won’t find factory workers rolling cigarettes.

Instead, you’ll see artists, fashionistas and coffee-drinking hipsters in this converted industrial-chic complex, housing local designers, creative incubators and pop-up shops.

The SCCP is also home to the Taiwan Design Center, which is helping local talent develop their brands. While Taiwan was once known as a post-war manufacturing powerhouse, designers are attempting to change its reputation for cheap goods, moving from “Made in Taiwan” to “Designed in Taiwan.” The focus is now on high-quality craftsmanship, where attention is paid to details such as fabric and tailoring.

This island of 23 million people was once a colony of Japan, from 1895 to 1945, an era that saw the development of education, healthcare and infrastructure. Today there’s genuine admiration for Japanese culture, with its influence felt in everything from architecture and fashion to the bite-sized shape of sushi. In the streets of Taipei, you’re just as likely to find ramen and sashimi as you will Chinese food.

Japanese films, video games and manga comic books are on display in shop windows.

Hello Kitty is everywhere—there are more than 200 licensees across Taiwan, and even the national airline, EVA Air, offers a Hello Kitty check-in counter at Taoyuan International Airport. Indeed, the animated figure has appeared on more than 50,000 products over the past 40 years, with brand collaborations that span Vans sneakers to MAC Cosmetics. Hello Kitty is part of the “culture of cuteness,” called kawaii, an aesthetic found in Japanese pop culture, from anime to manga, like Pokémon’s Pikachu.

In fashion, the kawaii aesthetic often involves lace and ruffles, but Japanese designers have also pioneered long-standing global trends such as androgyny and uneven design, finding perfection in imperfection. The ’90s saw the rise of Harajuku street style; nowadays, Japanese retailers like Uniqlo are joining the ranks of global fast fashion.

But Japan and Taiwan don’t have a monopoly on all that’s fashionable coming out of Asia these days.

South Korea, a country where music and TV dramas drive K-style, has a growing influence, while Hong Kong is bent on nurturing local creative industries to increase its soft power. Together, these nations are creating a new global dialogue about what’s on-trend.

While pan-Asian influences can be found on the runway, in pop culture and all over Instagram, it takes a visit—or several—to get a true sense of the cultures driving it all.

The Taiwanese, for their part, have a talent at synthesizing trends from Japan and, increasingly, South Korea. In accessories, from jewelry to eyeglasses and handbags, designers are focusing on industrial chic, using elements such as cement, aluminum, granite and other industrial materials to turn the mundane into works of art. Taiwanese watchmaker Sean Yu’s top-selling watch, for example, features a cured concrete dial, inspired by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, known as the King of Concrete.

The SCCP is just one place to find Taipei’s upandcoming designers. Abandoned industrial spaces are increasingly being turned into creative hubs and innovation labs. Huashan 1914 Creative Park was created in a former sake factory. In the district of Dadaocheng, historic brick buildings that once housed Chinese medicine shops and traditional tea houses are now home to the city’s young entrepreneurs. Here you’ll find ArtYard, a project that converts abandoned buildings into creative spaces such as ceramics boutiques, leather shops and art galleries.

THIS PAGE: Hello Kitty cakes at EVA Air’s VIP lounges. OPPOSITE PAGE: Young women showcasing their Harajuku fashion style; Japanese pop idols Musubizm show off Kawaii style.

“Hong Kong’s East-meets-West look still influences pan-Asian fashion today”

N

ot about to be left behind, Hong Kong, too, is fostering local creative industries.

Last year it launched a Fashion Incubation Programme at the Hong Kong Design Centre. Similar to the SCCP, the newly opened Tai Kwun is a former law enforcement complex in Old Town Central turned heritage, arts and leisure hub. Nearby is the PMQ, or Police Married Quarters, another historic building transformed into a creative hub housing almost 100 local artists and designers.

Back in the ’60s, Hong Kong reached the height of its global influence in clothing manufacturing until factories started moving to mainland China. At the time, Hong Kong was still a British colony with a large ex-pat community, and the world came here to find skilled tailors. Hong Kong’s East-meets-West look still influences pan-Asian and global fashion today.

These days, though, Seoul is considered one of the hottest fashion cities in Asia—and arguably the world—with its own version of East-meets-West. First came K-pop and K-beauty, such as lip taints and cushion foundations that revolutionized makeup, influencing international brands like Revlon and L’Oréal.

Now it’s K-fashion, heavily influenced by K-pop stars.

K-pop, in fact, isn’t just about popular music; it’s a lifestyle, intertwining fashion with music, film and television.

Even in Japan, once the style capital of Asia, teenagers have a fascination with all things Korean and are heavily influenced by K-pop.

Modern-day Seoul is all about shopping, from luxury retailers lining posh Apgujeong Rodeo Street in Gangnam to the Dongdaemun shopping district—open 9pm until dawn, if you still haven’t had your fill—with 30,000 stores in 30 shopping centres over 10 blocks.

But head to the tree-lined Garosugil shopping haven in hip Sinsa-dong for trendy, homegrown boutiques and design stores to add some “K” to your wardrobe and people-watch for local streetstyle (plus, there’s cafés, brunch spots, wine bars, beauty shops and the ever-popular Korean dessert shops).

K-streetwear, in particular, is putting Korea on the fashion map. What sets it apart—aside from the use of high-impact logos, bold colours and experimental fabrics— is its affordability. Yet, with its impeccable tailoring, K-streetwear isn’t disposable. The label Ader Error, which gained a huge following on Instagram, was a pioneer of K-streetwear, combining elements of Asian and Western streetwear. Often referred to as Korea’s answer to cult favourite Vetements, the label uses sophisticated cutting and tailoring techniques on simple fabrics.

This look, hugely popular in Japan, Hong Kong and Taiwan, is going global, worn by international celebs such as Rihanna and Rita Ora. You’ll even find Korean street style on the catwalk (at the Concept Korea show at New York Fashion Week) and in retail shops like Zara, Top Shop and H&M. And yes, there’s also a name for this Korean obsession: hallyu.

In Hong Kong, I make sure to stop by G.O.D., which stands for Goods of Desire, known for merging colonial motifs and vintage Hong Kong brands from the 1960s with contemporary design. There’s a silk tie with a motif of Hong Kong’s old tenement buildings, an Alex Croft “graffiti wall” carryall and graphic Ts emblazoned with Chinese slang (and cheeky, unprintable translations). It’s both retro-cool and ultra-modern; to me it’s quintessential Hong Kong.

TAIWAN ESSENTIALS STAY For an urban vibe, the new Amba Taipei Songshan offers minimalist, contemporary design and thoughtful extras like Apple TV. For five-star luxury, Shangri-La’s Far Eastern Plaza Hotel has the city’s highest rooftop swimming pool and signature gin cocktails in the Lobby Court. amba-hotels.com; shangri-la.com

EAT Taipei’s first-ever Michelin guide was released earlier this year, with 20 restaurants receiving stars (and 10 street food stalls making the Bib Gourmand list). For the three-star experience, head to Cantonese restaurant Le Palais. palaisdechinehotel.com

DO Taiwan is known for its green spaces; hike to the top of Elephant Mountain in Taipei and catch the sunset over the city. Or, get out of town at picturesque Sun Moon Lake, a popular cycling spot in the mountains.

THIS PAGE: An EVA Air A330-200; flight attendants buying into the Hello Kitty brand.

A VERY BROOKLYN

Brooklyn Bridge by Thomas Hawk

These days New Yorkers are crossing the Brooklyn Bridge for gourmet meals and sophisticated new fashions.

SITUATION Brooklyn Bridge by Thomas Hawk

The hipsters have grown up in New York City’s Williamsburg, where the latest hot spots are as comfy as they are cutting edge, as SARAH TRELEAVEN discovers

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The dining room at the Williamsburg Hotel; biking’s the easiest way to get around; people from all walks of life cross the Brooklyn Bridge; fire-roasted cabbage at Leuca; Westlight’s rooftop bar; an exhibit at the Food Museum.

Bridge photo by Maria Eklind; biking photo by Julen Landa; Museum of Food photo by Megan Swann

T

he last time I spent a long weekend in Williamsburg was about eight years ago, when I was much younger but definitely no cooler than I am now. The neighbourhood was then at peak hipster and much of the local economy seemed to run almost exclusively on the mix of VICE magazine, beards, spandex bike shorts, uneven haircuts, irony, disdain and cocaine that had newly colonized the area.

I stayed at a hotel near a highway because Williamsburg was too cool for big commercial hotels, and I dined at some of the neighbourhood’s excellent restaurants, including Egg (the superb crispy duck leg hash with a side of candied bacon is still on the menu) and La Superior (where I couldn’t eat enough beef cheek tacos, served with liberal amounts of salsa verde).

But I couldn’t escape the feeling that I was an outsider not because I was a tourist but because of the particular social dictates. Williamsburg certainly wasn’t a secret—referring to neighbourhoods in other places as “the Brooklyn of…” had started years earlier—but it still felt a bit like a private club, with clear in and out groups dictated largely by a specific and identifiable look. I felt weirdly undeserving of and unwelcome on my own mini vacation.

After a more recent visit, I’m pleased to announce that Williamsburg has finally jumped the shark.

Not to undermine the complexities of continuing gentrification, but the condos have gone up, the restaurant groups have moved in and the whole place appears to have not just chilled out but also grown into a more sophisticated panache.

Time Out, Fodors and Eater all recently declared the Brooklyn dining scene superior to Manhattan’s.

Many of New York City’s best and most innovative chefs—including Polo Dobkin at the Michelin-starred Meadowsweet (contemporary American), Missy Roberts at Lilia (handmade pastas and woodfired pizzas), Patty Jackson at the Michelin-starred Delaware and Hudson (contemporary American) and Fredrik Berselius at the Michelin-starred Aska (modern Scandinavian)—are based in Williamsburg.

The style in Williamsburg has shifted, too, from ad hoc neon Pabst Blue Ribbon signs and faerie lights over a weathered bar to beautifully converted warehouse spaces and businesses well integrated into renovated row homes.

Small, curated boutiques like Bird Brooklyn (clothing, shoes and accessories by independent designers), weekend markets like Smorgasbord (a seasonal outdoor food market) and culture and design centres like the Museum of Food and Drink and the Williamsburg Art & Historical Center make it easy to find activities to fill the day.

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BROOKLYN ESSENTIALS

S

everal new hotels—including, in the last two years, The William Vale, 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge, The Hoxton and Hilton Brooklyn—mean that visitors no longer have to do a daytime shuffle from their midtown suites to Brooklyn’s comparatively low-key streets.

I split my time between The William Vale and The Williamsburg Hotel, both of which combine sleek big-city design sensibility with inviting communal spaces, floor-to-ceiling glass that capture magnificent views of the Manhattan skyline, chic outdoor pools, popup partnerships and events (The William Vale has a summertime burger shack and The Williamsburg has a “DJ Vinyl Brunch”) and restaurants that serve terrific modern American comfort food.

The crowd in Williamsburg is changing, too— both locals and visitors. When I drop by Allswell, a cozy pub where the lights are dim, the staff friendly, I am completely thrilled—as I dig into some excellent lamb ragu atop fresh cavatelli—to overhear the refreshingly uncool conversations my fellow diners are having about episodes of The Bachelor and a new corporate job’s proximity to Whole Foods.

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STAY David Lemmond, general manager of the William Vale, says that the neighbourhood’s shift has felt somewhat inevitable: “Williamsburg is a coin that keeps turning and evolving, and it’s no longer just a hipster hangout. We now have a lot of people staying here who used to book in midtown.” Business travellers, bachelorette parties and young families are starting to make Williamsburg their beachhead instead of just a day trip from Manhattan.

One of my last meals in Williamsburg is at the William Vale’s Leuca restaurant, which serves southern Italian food that feels influenced by contemporary California cuisine. I feast on crusty sourdough bread served with sheep’s milk ricotta topped with hot honey and garlic, the perfect combination of creamy, sweet and slightly spicy.

Then I move onto pleasantly gamey, extremely rich goat Bolognese over fresh pasta.

With all of the changes to Williamsburg—the sky filled with cranes, the rising prices and the businesses crossing the East River—there is a question to ask about whether it’s simply becoming an extension of Manhattan. But by the time dessert arrives, an exceptionally light and subtle pistachio cake with a crust of shaved chocolate and citrus paired with olive oil ice cream (all served with an earnest smile), I realize, at that particular moment, there was nowhere else in New York City I’d rather be.

The Williamsburg Hotel is a 150-room wonder of brick, glass and steel; it’s a great pet-friendly option with a New American bistro and hotspot bar. The William Vale offers a stunning rooftop bar with 360-degree views, cultural programming (including film screenings) and airy, contemporary rooms with rainfall showerheads. thewilliamsburghotel.com; thewilliamvale.com

EAT/DRINK Williamsburg has become an embarrassment of riches for visiting foodies. Start with candied bacon for breakfast or brunch at Egg, move onto housemade ricotta topped with hot honey and delectable pistachio cake for lunch at Leuca, and then freshly made pastas for dinner at Lilia. eggrestaurant.com; leuca.com; lilianewyork.com

DO While the more activity-minded can always stop in at the Museum of Food and Drink and the Williamsburg Art & Historical Center, the neighbourhood is perfect for leisurely strolling. In between meals, stop in at Black Brick for coffee, Bird to peruse cute dresses, Catbird for jewelry and Idol Brooklyn for hip menswear. mofad.org; wahcenter.net; blackbrickcoffee.com; birdbrooklyn.com; catbirdnyc.com; idolbrooklyn.com

OPPOSITE PAGE: New York’s East River from a suite at the William Vale. ON THIS PAGE: Williamsburg provides easy access to other Brooklyn attractions, like Coney Island.

Coming up FOR

air

On the North Sea island of Sylt, known for beach holiday makers, NANCY TRUMAN discovers an invigorating wellness culture

s

tepping off the train at the Westerland station on Germany’s Isle of Sylt on an unusually hot evening, I found myself in the midst of a bikers’ convention.

With Harley Davidson owners from across Germany and Austria in town, my idyllic seaside vacation unexpectedly kicked off with a cacophony of revving motorcycles and revellers alike.

The Westerland promenade was packed, restaurants were booked solid and strandkörbs, the famous German wicker loungers that line the beach by the hundreds, were scarce. The town of about 9,400 residents, midway along the nearly 40-kilometre long west-coast beach, is home to some of Sylt’s best restaurants and high-end shops.

Though the island can accommodate up to 60,000 visitors, I had arrived when it seemed, at first, precariously close to capacity.

Sometimes solitude, saunas and spas are just the ticket for a bit of R&R, and Germany’s northernmost island, situated in the North Sea, jutting up to Denmark’s latitude, usually fits the bill. For those who imagine taking soul-searching walks along the water’s edge, waves crashing on near-empty beaches, spring and fall are perfect times to visit. But even during a peak period, I discovered that it only took venturing farther afield, to less-travelled beaches and towns, to find my idyllic Sylt vacation. The pristine, crisp sea air, void of dust and industry smog, is ideally therapeutic. A brisk walk along the water’s edge, especially when bracing winds are whipping up a sea spray rich in trace elements such as iodine and minerals, is a prescription for healthy lungs and improved skin.

Heading out to escape the crowds, I strode the relatively easy sixkilometre loop at Ellenbogen, the private nature reserve and bird sanctuary that occupies a bent-elbow shaped peninsula stretching from the town of List to the northernmost point of the island, encountering few people along its vast white-sand beaches and grassy dunes. I also walked stretches of the busy Westerland strand. I soon found my skin softer and more supple, my allergy symptoms lessened and my sleep deeper.

Members of the Naturist movement began flocking here in the 1920s, earning the island its reputation as the birthplace of modern nudism. If you want to visit one of these beaches you’ll have to start stripping down and find the FKK Strand signs (Freikörperkultur, which translates to Free Body Culture). Today, many Germans still swear by the health benefits of sweating in a hot sauna nakt before jumping into the frigid North Sea. Since the 1960s, Germany’s business and media elite have been vacationing on Sylt. Sports stars and TV hosts are often spotted in Kampen, where several own homes. But don’t expect the locals to divulge any names. They are, however, talking about the international high-profile visitors expected to fly in for detoxing once the latest outpost of Lanserhof, a world renowned, exclusive medical spa, is completed in 2020. Canadian-born Tamara Raffelhüschen, who married into a local bakery family, was quick to point out the site in List.

At Hotel Stadt Hamburg, general manager Christian Wirsich sees a different kind of visitor: repeat guests tend to be solitary people who arise early for a swim or a beach walk, undeterred by wind or rain. They are also the ones who frequent the hotel and day spas, including the hotel’s Quiara Spa. I skipped a morning dip in the North Sea, opting instead for a pampering 85-minute Classic Spa treatment, which began with the Indochine scrub—a combination of lemongrass, mandarin, bergamot and antioxidant-packed moringa powder—being applied from shoulders to toes. It left my skin feeling soft and replenished. After a quick shower, I was treated to a Thai massage that had just the right pressure to heal my travel-weary muscles. My morning treatment, coupled with a bit of sauna time and a swim in the pool, left me ready to face climbing 110 steps to the top of Uwe, Sylt’s highest dune at 52 metres above sea level, where I was rewarded with a panoramic view of the island, and a glimpse of Denmark across the shimmering sea.

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Most hotels on Sylt have upscale spas and you don’t have to be a guest to book a treatment. Westerland Syltness Center, located at the entrance to the beach, has the widest variety of treatments. Here, you can cocoon in a Cleopatra bath, which leaves your skin soft and supple, and your body and mind relaxed; or breathe easier after Thalassotherapy, a treatment that uses sea salt, algae, thermal baths and silt. Consisting of calcium, potassium, phosphorus and sulfur, the fine silt from the Wadden Sea is said to stimulate blood circulation and increase metabolic rates.

Pedalling the 20 or so kilometres from Westerland to List and the Ellenbogen, one of the more popular routes, could also have that effect. The Rasende Emma, a narrow-gauge railway that ran the length of the island between 1888 and 1970, is the basis for much of the 200 kilometres of trails here. If you tire, you and your bike can get a lift on public transit.

A week after my visit, the forecast for Sylt was a cool 17 degrees Celsius, and the bikers had gone home. While a bump in visitors from balmy temperatures is welcomed by businesses, what’s not is an increase in harsh North Sea storms brought on by global warming.

Despite erecting breakers to weaken the waves’ effects and pumping sand from the sea onto the beaches, the island loses between one and four metres a year.

As for the hundreds of German and Austrian Harley owners, all the money they spend on Sylt during those few days each June can go a long way toward slowing erosion. sylt.de; insel-sylt.de

SYLT ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE Lufthansa operates flights from Frankfurt and Munich to Westerland/Sylt Airport, which can be booked as part of your overseas flight. The island is connected to the mainland by rail and regional trains leave Hamburg-Altona hourly; there’s also two car shuttle services that board in Niebüll on the mainland. bahn.com/en; syltshuttle.de; autozug-sylt.de

STAY Historic Hotel Hamburg Stadt sports Old-World elegance and is a standout for its attention to detail and service. If you want to book a tour, a bicycle, a table for dinner or even catch a ride somewhere, just ask at the front desk. That’s also where you pick up and return beach towels. hotelstadthamburg.com/en

EAT Cyclers and hikers are drawn to Die Kupferkanne in Kampen, a Second World War flak bunker turned café, for its artsy vibe. An international selection of coffee beans are roasted and ground daily, served with freshly baked, oversized pieces of cherry and rhubarb cake. kupferkanne-sylt.de

DO At low tide, visitors can discover the fascinating ecosystem of the Wadden Sea National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2009. Be careful. While you’re out spotting glasswort and lugworms, and a multitude of bird species, the tide can change turning the narrow tidal channels into treacherous currents. A guided hike or boat tour with Erlebniszentrum Naturgewalten in List is recommended; they even provides rubber boots. naturgewalten-sylt.de

OPENING SPREAD: Sylt’s Watt landscape. THIS PAGE: Late afternoon on Kampen beach.

“Since the 1960s, Germany’s business and media elite have been vacationing here, but don’t expect the locals to divulge any names”

Tennessee

Homesick

Blues

Nashville’s Grand Ole Opry brought Dolly Parton to town, and fans like WAHEEDA HARRIS have made pilgrimages there ever since

Nashville’s Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum.

ON THIS SPREAD: An interactive Taylor Swift Studio; the Ascend Amphitheater; Dolly herself.

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Standing on the rooftop of the Kimpton Aertson Hotel, I’m treated to a sweeping view of Nashville’s Midtown neighbourhood and surrounding skyline: groups of students are walking and cycling to their classes at nearby Vanderbilt University, while traffic pulses through Music Row, ground zero of country music head offices, recording studios and radio stations.

As the newest kid on the block, this boutique hotel’s existence is a result of a growing city and its modern attributes: the au courant destination for bachelor and bachelorette parties, passionate fans coming to watch the President Trophy–winning NHL Predators and the endless stream of music lovers wanting to indulge in multitude of music options: the honky-tonk clubs of Lower Broadway, singer-songwriters jams at The Bluebird Café and in-store concerts at beloved Grimey’s New & Preloved Music in South Nashville.

For its grand opening, the Kimpton Aertson treated its guests to the sweet sounds of country music A-listers Little Big Town. The band’s lead singer, Kimberly Schlapman, with her distinctive blonde tresses, conjures up my first country-star girl-crush: Dolly Parton. No offence to Schlapman herself, but I’m suddenly transported into my own private Dollyland.

By age seven, Parton had learned to play a homemade guitar, sang in church and was soon performing on local radio and television programs in East Tennessee. Parton came to Nashville for the first time to sing on the Grand

Ole Opry at age 13, and met Johnny Cash, who encouraged her to pursue a career in music. After Parton graduated from high school in 1964, she moved to the Music City, establishing herself as a songwriter and singer, then actress and businesswoman, and has been a perennial guest on the Grand Ole Opry stage.

As Parton’s fame grew, achieving 25 number one Billboard hits over the decades, so did Nashville cement its reputation as the centre of all things country music. Both Parton and the city share classic Tennessee traits of being friendly and fun, and although I’ve never met Dolly, I know she would be as welcoming as Music City, which these days welcomes 14 million visitors a year.

Nashville likes to celebrates its own and did so last spring when Parton was honoured with a mural at the Opry Plaza by Nashville artist Scott Guion, showcasing her signature blonde hair and strumming a guitar alongside other well-known country music faces such as Blake Shelton and Little Jimmy Dickens.

There are several Dolly’s-been-there must-sees. The Grand Ole Opry, based at Opry Plaza since 1974, has been nicknamed the “Mother Church of Country Music,” though its stage hosts everything from contemporary pop bands to weekly bluegrass nights. Backstage tours provide an

opportunity to see the VIP-only areas, where local art, rare memorabilia and vintage photographs grace the walls. The Music City Walk of Fame, established in 2006, inducted Dolly in 2009, though, of course, there are also other music giants, like Alan Jackson, Loretta Lynn and Hank Williams Sr., commemorated there.

Also downtown, the collection at the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum is more than just audio clips of cowboy songs and photos of big-haired singers. Through original recordings, videos of television and concert performances, posters, handbills, photographs, instruments, clothing and cars, the museum details the history of country music and its pop culture impact. Linger over the costumes and dresses worn by performers—like the infamous marijuana leaf-embroidered suit worn by folk rocker Gram Parsons, made by infamous rodeo tailor Nudie Cohn, or the slinky (and very small) sequin dresses worn by Carrie Underwood, Shania Twain and, of course, Dolly.

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THIS SPREAD: Stars in the Music City Walk of Fame; visitors remember charts past at the Wall of Gold Records.

“The collection at the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum is more than just audio clips of cowboy songs and photos of bighaired singers. Through original recordings, videos of television and concert performances, posters, handbills, photographs, instruments, clothing and cars, the museum details the history of country music and its pop culture impact�

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NASHVILLE ESSENTIALS STAY But Ms. Parton isn’t just a glitzy inclusion in a museum display: she is also a member of the Country Music Hall of Fame, inducted in 1999. Parton is credited with being one of the women who helped revolutionize the country music industry for female performers. Parton recorded many of her hallmark songs at Historic RCA Studio B, which also offers a tour. She left her mark on the studio in another way: in 1967, rushing to be on time for her first recording at the studio, she crashed her car into the sidewall of the studio, an incident revealed in her 1994 memoir My Life and Other Unfinished Business.

A few days later, I’m with my friend Cindy at Centennial Park, sipping a cold cider from MC Pub before finding our spot on the grass to enjoy Musician’s Corner. Cindy’s a recent transplant to Nashville, lured by city’s lack of pretension and abundant affability. The park is one of many places throughout the city for new residents to find their community.

I see a young girl by the stage, dancing in the sunshine and playing her own air guitar as the performer on stage belts out a tune. Maybe one day she’ll be on that stage herself, her dreams of making music come true in Music City, just like Dolly’s.

Kimpton Aertson Hotel offers contemporary guest rooms with contemporary art and flair. Guests can lounge on the rooftop pool deck overlooking the quiet surroundings of Vanderbilt University or make their way to the honky-tonks of Lower Broadway in less than 15 minutes by taxi. Henley, located within the hotel, is a perfect place to kick off a night with a tasty house libation created by veteran bartender Jon Howard. aertsonhotel.com

EAT Located in the Germantown neighbourhood, City House offers a southern interpretation of traditional Italian cuisine thanks to the vision of Chef Tandy Wilson, the first Nashville chef honoured by the James Beard Foundation. Indulge in tasty bread gnocchi with rabbit sugo, or belly ham and mozzarella pizza with oregano and chiles. cityhousenashville.com

SEE & DO Peruse the new and preloved music collection at Grimey’s Records before listening to up and coming performers at the regularly scheduled in-store concerts. The store is also home to live music venue The Basement. grimeys.com boldmagazine.ca

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LUXURY DESTINATION WEDDINGS & HONEYMOONS

WINTER ISSUE 2018-2019

Palaces, centuries-old coffeehouses and classical concert halls have long been Vienna’s calling cards. But in this most stylish of European capitals, there are also hipster cocktail bars, jazz clubs, contemporary art, a gigantic giggle-inducing ferris wheel and a museum dedicated to made-up words. Doug O’Neill finds that Austria’s grande dame is letting her hair down S TAY Palatial hotels, rooms fit for royalty & onsite patisseries

E AT

DRINKS

Where coffee & chocolate are the stuff of dinnertime dreams

Creative cocktails, cold craft beers & champagne

SEE & DO Opera, outdoor fun & an over-the-top ferris wheel

our insider’s

guide to

VIENNA Murals inside Oslo City Hall.

INSIDER’S GUIDE TO VIENNA

S TAY

Palatial hotels, rooms fit for royalty & onsite patisseries DIDN’T THE SAXE-COBOURGS ONCE LIVE HERE? The 180-year-old Palais Cobourg boasts six wine bars, 34 luxury suites, one spa, two restaurants and two Michelin stars. The Palais Suite is graced with views of the cathedral and the lush gardens below.

From $1,760. palais-coburg.com ON VIENNA’S FAMOUS RING ROAD Built for the World Exposition of 1873, the beautifully-restored Palais Hansen Kempinski combines the trappings of a bygone era (including an elegant ballroom) with plenty of contemporary touches, such as a modernized Ottoman-style spa. From $670. kempinski.com BANKING ON CREATURE COMFORTS The Arany Spa, built in a former bank vault, is reason enough to book into the Park Hyatt Vienna, located near St. Stephen’s Cathedral.

Spa attendants use gemstones, mother of pearl and gold in their treatments.

From $840. hyatt.com PRINCELY PLEASURES Hotel Imperial Vienna was originally the home of Prince Philipp of Württemberg. The luxurious hotel is located on Vienna’s famous Ringstraße, next to Musikverein concert hall, home of the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra.

From $550. imperialvienna.com

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E AT

Where coffee & chocolate are the stuff of dinnertime dreams ON THIS PAGE: Xxxxx

CEREBRALLY GOOD COFFEE Serious-minded coffee-drinkers (Leon Trotsky and Sigmund Freud, among them) have frequented Café Central since its opening in 1876. The perfect lunch combo: iced tomato buttermilk soup and schnitzel, followed by a Viennese coffee. cafecentral.wien LUXE, LOCAL DINING When a new-ish restaurant earns a Michelin star and three Gault Millau toques so quickly, you know they’re doing something very right. Opus Restaurant chef Stefan Speiser insists on local ingredients in all of his dishes. The wild trout, pigeon and Austrian lamb get rave reviews. restaurant-opus.at HAVE SOME BUN A true and traditional Vienna coffee house, the family-owned Café Hawelka, has been brewing coffee and baking pastries since the end of the Second World War. Regulars know to ask for an order of Buchteln, jam-filled Austrian yeast buns. hawelka.at INNOVATIVE, ORGANIC & VEGAN TOO! Inside the elegant Hotel Sans Souci is The Veranda, where chef Jeremy Ilian’s innovative take on organic-only dishes (including saddle of lamb and vegan-friendly spinach yeast dumplings) has already earned the restaurant its first toque from Gault Millau. sanssouci-wien.com TORTE OF THE TOWN Three words: “Original Sacher Torte.” Sacher Café Wiens prides itself on authentic Austrian coffee-house culture, which includes, of course, sinfully delicious chocolate torte served by white-aproned staff. sacher.com

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INSIDER’S GUIDE TO VIENNA

DRINKS

Creative cocktails, cold craft beers & champagne A LITTLE BUBBLY GOES A LONG WAY Earlier this year Vienna got its first champagne cocktail bar: 26° EAST, inside the posh Hotel Palais. Finger foods include Hungarian vareniki, dim sum nibblies and samosas. kempinski.com ALL THAT JAZZ Vienna is (mostly) about classical music. For a dose of live jazz (or swing or cabaret) and a cold local brew, spend an evening at Porgy and Bess Jazz Club, which is down a hidden alleyway off Riemergasse, close to the city centre. porgy.at GUT COCKTAILS WITH A VIEW Das LOFT Bar, on the top floor of the Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom, serves up creative cocktails such as The Last Word (WAT), which splashes together Tanqueray No. 10 gin, chartreuse, maraschino, lime and absinthe.

Remember to check out the illuminated multimedia ceiling mural… before your second drink. dasloftwien.at

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SEE & DO

Opera, outdoor fun & an over-the-top ferris wheel TAKING THE MUSIC OUTSIDE Every visit should include the Vienna State Opera. Music fans can enjoy free nighttime video screenings of the concerts in open air on Karajan-Platz from April to June, September and during New Year’s week. wien.info MIND YOUR LANGUAGE Learn a bit of Star Trek’s Klingon or get a primer in Esperanto, the world’s most successful planned language, at the Esperanto Museum inside the Austrian National Library. Budding linguists can test their grammar on the popular Pac-Man game. onb.ac.at GLOBAL SPIRIT Channel your inner geography nerd at the incredibly cool Globe Museum, also in the National Library. Displays and interactive exhibits include 250 terrestrial and celestial globes from the 16th century to modern times. onb.ac.at ROUND & ROUND YOU GO Vienna’s giant ferris wheel, Wiener Riesenrad, towers 65 metres above the entrance to the Prater amusement park.

It’s worth taking a spin—especially at night. wienerriesenrad.com MOVED BY MODERN While Vienna is known for its classical art, there’s plenty of modern Austrian art, too. In fact, there are 5,000 pieces by 20 th-century artists on display at the Leopold Museum. leopoldmuseum.org A WALK IN THE PARK The beautifully landscaped Volksgarten Park, on the grounds of the Hofburg Imperial Palace, includes the neoclassical Theseus Temple, historic monuments, ornate fountains and 3,000 rose bushes in the Rosegarten. hofburg-wien.at

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ROOM ENOUGH AT THE PALACE The 1,441 rooms in the Baroque Schönbrunn Palace are a walking lesson in architecture and Austrian history. But check out the maze in the Schönbrunn Gardens. Escaping the thoughtfully-designed labyrinth is a mental challenge in itself. schoenbrunn.at

COFFEE TALK Simply asking for “a coffee” in Vienna will raise eyebrows. There are numerous variations. If you’d like a single espresso, ask for a Kleiner Schwarzer. For a double, it’s Großer Schwarzer. If you’d like a small container of milk or cream to go with that espresso, ask for a Kleiner Brauner or Großer Brauner. Many locals will (quite rightfully) insist you try a Wiener Melange, which is one shot espresso and a splash of hot water topped with foamy milk. A Verlängerter is essentially espresso diluted with hot water, while espresso topped with whipped cream is called an Einspänner.

Some (but not all) coffee houses list specialties such as Mozart Coffee, which is a whip-cream-topped double espresso with sherry brandy on the side. Cappuccino in Vienna typically has whipped cream.

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TRAVEL INTEL Our tips and tricks to navigating the world

So… what are you doing after work?

Blender travel (some call it “bleisure”) is when you mix that work trip with a dollop of vacation fun. What should you do in the late afternoon and evening when the meetings are over? Here are our picks for four great cities.

BY LIZ FLEMING

SAN FRANCISCO

Drop by City Lights Bookstore at 261 Columbus Avenue at Broadway Avenue to wander through what is arguably one of the best bookstores in the U.S., then head to San Fran’s world-renowned Chinatown to Hunan Home’s for a no-frills-butfabulous dinner. Cap off the night at Bourbon and Branch, a speakeasy style bar where you’ll have to figure out the password to get in and get served.

Reservations are required. citylights.com; hunanhomerestaurant.com; bourbonandbranch.com

LONDON

Take a walk with a purpose. Try the Literary London Pub Walk (meet at Holborn tube station), the Along the Thames Pub Walk (meet at Blackfriars tube), the Ghosts, Gaslight and Guinness Walk (also at Holborn tube) or the Jack the Ripper Walk (meet at Tower Hill tube). Show up at 7:30pm, no matter what the weather, with 10 British pounds ($17.35) in your pocket. walks.com

VANCOUVER

Tired of looking at your colleagues’ faces after a full day? Have dinner at Dark Table, a blind dining experience where only good luck, instinct, and your best table manners guide your gourmet dinner into your mouth. No cell phones are allowed, so forget trying to use that little flashlight to see what’s on the plate. After dinner, try some fun team building at Locked Canada, a game room experience where you and your team literally escape from your problems. lockedcanada.com; darktable.ca

There’s no better reason to skip that afternoon meeting than to tour the ancient, hilly streets of Lisbon on a motorcycle sidecar tour. After you’ve seen the Tower of Belem, Jerónimos Monastery, the charming districts of Alfama, Bairro Alto and Chiado, and had a ride on the Santa Justa Lift (possibly the most beautiful elevator on the planet), you’ll be ready to settle into a neighbourhood club for some local fish and a healthy helping of Fado music, Lisbon’s peculiarly tragic yet compelling soundtrack. bikemyside.com

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Illustration by Laura García

LISBON

SIMPLY UNFORGETTABLE

Solve your worst travel nightmares before they happen by packing the essentials in your carry-on—and then leaving them there between trips. Fill travel-sized containers with shampoo, conditioner, contact-lens solution to accompany a for-travel-only toothbrush, hair brush, over-the-counter meds, underwear and socks, lightweight robe and slippers, bathing suit, extra business cards, pad of paper and pen. Here’s the rest of our definitive list of things we-didn’t-pack-but-wish-we-had: • Hats for sun, rain and cold • Gloves • Off-season clothing • Sunglasses and reading glasses • Specialty batteries

• Prescription meds • Power bank • Extra charging cables • Contact-lens case filled with moisturizing lotion for the plane

PRESS SUBMIT

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PERCENT BRAZILIANS

PERCENT JAPANESE

PERCENT

SOUTH KOREANS

48 45 44

PERCENT AMERICANS

PERCENT AUSTRALIANS

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PERCENT FRENCH

PERCENT

WIRELESS IN HAVANA

The sun and sand aren’t the only things that are hot in Cuba these days. The government has announced a more rapid implementation of improved wifi coverage—one of the most common complaints visitors have about the country. WIFI will be available in 287 additional hotels by the end of 2018, with full coverage of every hotel on the island slated for 2019. Cuba also intends to offer visitors preferential rates for roaming service, now that 3G and 4G networks are available in popular destinations like Cayo Santa Maria and Cayo Largo.

BOLD QUERY I DON’T CARRY THE SLEEVE OF MY HOTEL-ROOM KEY CARD (WITH THE HOTEL NAME AND ROOM NUMBER PRINTED ON IT) IN CASE I’M PICKPOCKETED. IS THERE A BETTER WAY TO KEEP THAT INFO SAFE WHILE I’M OUT? Input your hotel name and address, along with your room number, into your phone so you won’t experience that oneMargarita-too-many memory panic. Your password will prevent a thief from getting more than a brick. Most phones back up data into the cloud, so it should be retrievable if your phone gets lost or stolen.

GERMANS

Travellers, according to Booking.com, who report they are comfortable using only their mobile device to book trips.

Canadians habits weren’t included in the survey—perhaps they were too busy travelling!using your phone, then arrive, scan and drive away. No waiting in line required.

APP-ETIZING TRAVEL There are so many travel apps out there, it can be confounding. Here are a few we’ve found indispensable.

Hopper.com Pop in your destination and rough travel dates to get predictions for price drops and alerts when those drops occur.

CityMapper.com Great for figuring out how to get from A to B on various forms of public transit, or even your own two feet.

HotelTonight.com You’ll love this for last minute hotel deals. Unlike competing discount sites, the app lets you know what hotel you’re booking before you press Accept.

Silvercar.com Love Audis? Hate standing in line? Book your rental using your phone, then arrive, scan and drive away. No waiting in line required.

LIVING THROUGH LOST LUGGAGE

You’ve just landed in Casablanca, but unfortunately, through some whim of the airline, your bags are in Cartagena, Cassis or Cologne.

Statistics from SITA, a leading specialist in air transport communications and information technology, suggest that the chance of an airline completely losing your bag (so you never lay eyes on it again) is tiny. So, in fact, is the likelihood that an airline will “mishandle” it.

There’s a mere one in 175 chance that your bag won’t arrive with you. Of those mishandled bags, just seven per cent are truly lost for good, which works out to roughly one bag for every 2,500 passengers. Here are some strategies for avoiding a luggage panic.

• When you realize there’s nothing for you on that carousel, look around the area. Your bag may have been lifted off by someone else (accidentally, of course) or it may be in the airline’s baggage office.

Stranger things have happened.

• If your bag has well and truly disappeared, give every tiny bit of information you can about it to the airline baggage-office staff, including a detailed description, your cell phone number and your travel plans for the next few days. Be sure to get the phone number of the lost-luggage desk, as well as some type of reference or claim number.

• Every airline has its particular lost-luggage policies. Some provide payments to enable you to replace essentials immediately and to cover the purchase of necessary clothing, etc. Ask what you’re entitled to. You also might want to take out some insurance of your own and investigate what insurance your credit card might provide.

• For US$5 per person, Blue Ribbon Bags will help locate and expedite delivery of lost checked bags for every flight, on every airline, everywhere in the world, no matter how many connections you’re making. For items lost more than 96 hours from the time your flight lands, the company will pay US$1,000 per bag. In the meantime, they’ll send updates every time there is a change to the status of the bag. blueribbonbags.com boldmagazine.ca

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BY CARLSON WAGONLIT TRAVEL

Saguenay-Lac-Saint by (c) Jean Tanguay

It’s all about planning and in this issue, our CWT Travel Advisors share their best tricks for navigating the busy holiday season ahead, offering tips for booking a dream safari as well as the three top destinations for solo travel.

BOLD Traveller Promotion in partnership with

HOLIDAY TRAVEL SPECIAL REPORT

We’ve had loads of questions about how to navigate busy, crowded, delay-prone airports during the holiday season, keeping your sanity and schedule intact.

From LORI ANN MOHR

Branch Manager / Carlson Wagonlit Travel Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

Plan ahead

1. Book with a CWT Travel Advisor and all aspects of your holiday travel will be scheduled before you leave – flights, accommodations, tours, concert tickets/ plays, excursions, restaurant reservations, spa appointments.

2. Arrive early – Because it’s a busy time of year, we suggest arriving earlier than usual to avoid the stress of busy airports.

3. Give yourself lots of time to check bags and get through security. The best idea?

Fly direct and avoid hassles.

Should I buy travel insurance?

Check with your CWT Travel Advisor regarding any penalties involved in canceling your trip. In many cases, you could lose the full amount so don’t assume that you’ll be ‘covered’ by a personal policy or your credit card coverage. Your CWT Travel Advisor will recommend proper insurance coverage for your trip and you’ll learn about the advantages of purchasing additional coverage.

Get a better seat

Unless you are a preferred member of an airline program or are purchasing a full-price ticket, the best time to confirm your seating is when you purchase it. If it’s not included with the ticket price, most airlines will offer paid seating and the sooner you confirm the more choice you have. Seats with extra leg room and/ or upgraded services will often cost extra. Your CWT Travel Advisor will review the fare options as sometimes it may be better to upgrade your fare than pay for seat selection. Beware of the lowest priced fares as often this will not preclude any pre-assigned seating until flight boarding.

Be happy Want to feel special without breaking your bank account?

Time at the airport can be enjoyed rather than simply endured. Airports are becoming food meccas so use GateGuru to locate stores, restaurants and spas around you.

Dying to feel like a worldly, elite traveler? For $30 dollars you can usually buy a day pass for an airline lounge to enjoy the free Wi-Fi, warm food and drinks.

Agents there may also be able to help untangle any travel snarls you’ve experienced. Use the LoungeBuddy app to locate nearby lounges and prices.

Beautiful Winter Postcard by Simon Robb

PLANNING

How much should I plan to spend on an African Safari?

Luxury safaris are gaining popularity and can easily cost more than $2000 per person per night; however, it’s still possible to enjoy a great wildlife adventure for less than half that price – provided that you take the right approach. Let our CWT Travel Advisors look after every detail for you – and remember, the price they quote will include meals, adult drinks, guided game drives and a conservancy fee.

From ZEN DE SOUZA

Manager / Carlson Wagonlit Travel Toronto, Ontario, Canada

A

n African Safari is truly a trip of a lifetime. As travel advisors, we brief all potential clients on their upcoming experience and explain what to expect including departure, the safari itself, finding the ‘big five’ and all options available at the end of the safari. Safety is always a priority, as is budget, and all arrangements are made through a reputable tour operator who uses a safe and experienced local ground handler dedicated to the well-being of our clients.

FIND THE RIGHT ACCOMMODATIONS Accommodations at the lodges must be 4-star or better, with our top picks in Kenya and Tanzania being the Sopa Lodges which are well-located in the parks and offer great value. If you would like to go a notch higher, then the Serena Hotels and Lodges brand is worth considering as is a stay at one of the Singita Game Reserves. Each lodge is well-managed with the involvement of the local community, offering sublime cuisine, award-winning wine cellars and exceptional game viewing opportunities.

DESTINATIONS Three wonderful destinations worth considering for that ultimate Safari experience: Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa. Each has its own appeal and the three are host to the world’s most popular game parks – Masai Mara National Reserve (Kenya along the Tanzanian border), Serengeti National Park (Tanzania) and Kruger National Park (South Africa). In fact, a Kenya/Tanzania combination is an extremely popular choice for witnessing the specular game migration within these two countries. Also worth considering – the upand-coming country of Botswana.

TRAVEL IN THE OFF-SEASON Low season varies from country to country but generally, the best times to go are from June to October and during the months of January and February. The months to avoid are April and May since heavy rains could make game viewing in some areas quite treacherous with vehicles getting bogged in thick mud for long periods of time.

In September and October, the airfares are much cheaper, the weather is pleasant, game is in abundance and the migration is still on.

IDEAS Heading off on a journey on your own? No worries! We’ve got a lineup of the top three safe and friendly countries for solo adventurers.

From JOHANNE ROBINSON

Branch Manager Carlson Wagonlit Travel Montréal, Québec, Canada

SPAIN The Camino de Santiago de Compostela is one of the world’s oldest pilgrimage routes with travelers having made their way across northern Spain to Santiago on ‘The Way of St. James’ for more than 1,000 years.

DENMARK Copenhagen is a great safe solo travel option, with fantastic food, great shopping and beautiful architecture as well as a warm, friendly culture. It’s an easy city to navigate and you’ll find that the best way to explore it is by bike.

CROATIA Sailing is hot right now, and with its old-world charm, amazing beaches and stunning coastline, Croatia is a great place to explore. If you’d like to join a group trip, you’ll discover that both Contiki and Just You have wonderful options for solo travelers.

CRUISE Always a great option for solo travelers, cruising is now offering fabulous new possibilities with lines such as Norwegian Cruise Lines creating special, more affordable single accommodations.

Zebras roaming freely at the Singita Game Reserve.

WORTH TRAVELLING FOR

WALKING WITH GIANTS

“I

Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort, Thailand

’d walk a mile for a Camel,” declared an ad for the R. J. Reynolds Tobacco Company in the 1940s. Well, I see you your camel and I raise you an elephant: I’d fly some 20 hours to walk with a pachyderm… and so I did. I spent a few glorious and enlightening days at the Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort, perched on a ridge overlooking the verdant jungles and silken rice paddies of Thailand, Myanmar and Laos, at the convergence of the Ruak and Mekong rivers. Among the many lures of this five-star, 160-acre resort is Camp Dara, designed as a traditional mahout village and now a refuge for some 20 rescued elephants.

Guests of the hotel can choose several elephant experiences at the sanctuary (whether you go or not, a portion of each room night goes toward the charity). In Walking with Giants, prepare to get up with the roosters to trek two hours through the jungle with a few of the “girls,”

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which might include regal giants like Pumpui and Meena. Your guide, the resident veterinarian or the property’s biologist, will teach you about these sweet mammoths and their habitat. (If you are plucky, you can even feed one of them.) Want more elephant interaction?

The Mahout Experience is a hands-on learning session, where guests observe and practice some of the 70 commands and touches used to guide and train the elephants.

If these activities aren’t enough for you, every morning a baby elephant (when I was there, it was five-year-old Ying Luck) comes to the outdoor dining terrace to be fussed over, fed copious amounts of bananas, and star in countless selfies with the guests.

Yes, I’d fly halfway around the world to do it all over again. anantara. com —RUTH J. KATZ

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Urban Souk, Morocco

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