INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS
$5.95
Croatia Denmark France Italy Norway Spain Sweden UK & Ireland
+ Amsterdam
EXPLORE VENICE OF THE NORTH,
ON POINTS.
ANY AIRLINE, ANY FLIGHT, ANY TIME. AVIONERS CAN DO THAT. ®
Take a tour through the historic canal system of Amsterdam. With 165 of them, Amsterdam actually has more canals than Venice. Start Avioning today with 15,000 Welcome points.† Visit rbc.com/avion or call 1 800 769-2511 to apply.
Subject to availability. Some restrictions may apply. For complete terms, visit rbc.com/travelredemption. † To receive the 15,000 bonus RBC Rewards points, your application form must be approved by us. Upon enrolment, 15,000 bonus RBC Rewards points will appear on your first monthly statement. This offer may not be combined or used in conjunction with any other offer. Royal Bank of Canada reserves the right to withdraw this offer at any time, even after acceptance by you. ®/™ Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC and Royal Bank are registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. ‡ All other trademarks are the property of their respective owner(s).
97%
98%
of our travellers would recommend Exodus to their friends*
of our travellers think that we design and operate trips to benefit the local community and environment*
4.7 out of 5.0 of our travellers would recommend Exodus to their friends*
Tours To 100+ Countries The World - Beyond Sightseeing For over 40 years, Exodus Travels has been creating life changing tours for people who people who want to experience a world beyond sightseeing. Whether you have a yearning to take a trip back in time, immerse yourself in a new culture, experience the great outdoors, or meet people that inspire you with wonder, Exodus has the adventure for you. From new takes on classic destinations to off-the-beaten path secrets, let Exodus Travels introduce you to your world beyond sightseeing.
Cultural • Hiking • Cycling • Wildlife *Statistics based on feedback from 2014 up until the time of publication.
EXODUSTRAVELS.COM / 1-800-267-3347
Contents
May/June 2016 Big Ben and the London Eye - Aerial view of London.
Features 47 Amsterdam, by design The intimate atmosphere of this Dutch city entices, its architecture invites one to take a closer look.
54 Adriatic Anew The lure of Croatia’s historic Dalmatian coast.
60 A Study in Contrast At once luxurious and charming, The Luberon region of Provence entices Jacqueline Swartz to revel in its duality. .
66 DECODING the United Kingdom and Ireland Special Insider’s Guide
8
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
Contents
10
May/June 2016
20 #Globetrotter Around the world with Benoît Gouez, Cellar Master at Moët & Chandon
26 #Style Explore Paris like true Gentlemen do
The Cover Oh Happy Days in the Adriatic Coast
41 #HereandNow Europe’s New Wave
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS
CONTRIBUTORS Inspired by our European destinations, we asked our contributors about their favourite discovery while in the destination. Here is what they had to say … MARLON MORENO Publisher + Founder MATT LONEY Associate Editor MAGDA DE LA TORRE America’s Editor
David Lasker Writer - Amsterdam (p48) “De Poezenboat, the cat house boat, the world’s only floating animal shelter, on the Singel Canal near the Central Station.” David Lasker is a cum laude Yale graduate and award-winning journalist. Next week, the former principal bass of the Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra is recording a CD of new Canadian music with the Scarborough Philharmonic Orchestra Wind Ensemble that will be distributed worldwide by the Naxos label.
Art Direction and Design Peter Wootton F22 Visual Communications Inc. 1.905.985.8885 f22visual.com PAIGE GORDON Coordinator CARLOS BOLIVAR Photography CHRISTYAN ESTRADA Production Assistant RAHUL NAIR Web Developer Public Relations Agency Jesson + Company jessonco.com 77 Bloor St. West, Suite 1200 Toronto, ON. M5S 1M2 info@jessonco.com
Waheeda Harris Writer - Croatia (p54) “Croatia had many welcome surprises from the Dalmatian coast like lemon liqueur and amazing fresh oysters.” Waheeda Harris is a travel journalist and the co-author of the Night + Day Guide to Toronto (Pulse Guides, 2008)
MEDIA SPONSORSHIPS marketing@boldmagazine.ca CORRESPONDENCE The Hudson Bay Centre 20 Bloor St. East P.O. Box 75075 Toronto, ON. M4W 3T3 BOLD® is published bimonthly by Pulso Media Group Inc. Opinions express in BOLD are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers. BOLD does not assume liability for content.
www.boldmagazine.ca Inspiration for Travellers ® Jacqueline Swartz Writer - France (p62) “The lavender museum! What a wonderful surprise was to learn about the different qualities of lavender, and which one you can ingest as a remedy.” Jacqueline Swartz has written about philosophers in France, Ayurvedic medicine in India and food in New Orleans. She has written for Conde Nast Traveller in the UK. She has written about architecture, European cultural trends, food - and about her native city, San Francisco, where she will be in a few weeks, looking at what is “trad and rad”.
ADVERTISING For Advertising, Promotion, Reprints and Sponsorships inquiries marketing@boldmagazine.ca phone: 1.416.323.7828 extension 25 phone: 1.647.780.8082
“Inspiration Vawn Himmelsbach Writer - Scandi-Chic (p41) “I was in awe of the fish markets - only in Scandinavia are fish markets so hip and stylish! Now I understand why they eat mackerel for breakfast.” Vawn Himmelsbach is writer and editor based in Toronto. She has covered technology and business for almost two decades, for media outlets such as CBCNews.ca, The Toronto Star, The Globe & Mail, Metro News, ITBusiness, PCworld Canada and Computerworld Canada. She also spent three years abroad, working as an Asian correspondent.
12
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
for Travellers”
A World of Possibilities
PROMOTION
Take Me There
For Those Who Prefer to Explore The city of Amsterdam is perfect for travellers. Sure, you can take boat tours through 165 canals – that’s actually more than Venice – and you can visit a wide range of museums – more per capita than anywhere else. But, Amsterdam is also a great place to rent a bike and ride with the locals to sites visitors don’t often get to see. Get out of the city center and explore the shops, cafés and galleries of Noord, Amsterdam’s version of Brooklyn north of the IJ river. You can even stop for a pint in a windmill – an actual windmill! This is the Amsterdam you won’t see in tourist guides. You see, there are two ways to explore a new destination. First you have tourists; those who are happy to stick to the travel guide itinerary and to take photos of famous and familiar landmarks. But then you have travellers. These are the people who like to wander off the beaten path. They might go down an alleyway just to see where they end up. Travellers eat at the local independent café. They find a city’s third-most popular art gallery and buy a unique piece to display in their home. And sometimes they sit peacefully on a park bench just to watch the locals go about their day.
According to Glenn DeSouza, VP of Retail Cards at RBC, “We have another word for these travellers. We call them Avioners®.” “In the same way that these travellers aren’t limited by the tourist guide, Avioners don’t accept limitations on their travel plans and they would never carry a travel rewards card that would place such limitations,” he says. In fact, with an RBC Avion® credit card you just don’t have to face those kinds of restrictions. You can book any flight, with any airline, at any time. And with Payback with Points you can redeem your RBC Rewards® points toward anything and everything you purchase with your Avion card. Simply use your points to make a payment directly toward your credit card balance. But more importantly, you can redeem points on everything you purchase for your trip. So not only can you do things like book flights, hotel rooms, and car rentals; you can also explore medieval castles and try famous Dutch cheeses – all ON POINTS! Avioners can explore and experience any new destination. So, ask yourself: are you a tourist or are you an Avioner?
Explore the world, ON POINTS Easy to understand travel rewards. No seat restrictions. If there’s a seat available, you fly – even during peak seasons. Plus you can also use your points to cover airline fees and taxes.
Earning points is simple and easy. You can feel confident knowing that you’ll earn RBC Rewards® points every time you make a purchase on your credit card.
Use your points toward all your purchases. With Payback with Points, you can redeem your RBC Rewards® points toward anything and everything you purchase using your Avion® credit card. Simply use your points to make a payment directly toward your credit card balance.
AVIONERS CAN DO THAT ®
To learn more visit rbc.com/avion All rewards are subject to availability and are subject to change without notice. Some restrictions may apply. For complete terms, visit rbcrewards.com/terms. ®/™ Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC and Royal Bank are registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. ‡ All other trademarks are the property of their respective owner(s).
Publisher’s Note
The Grand Canal at night
I’M IN VENICE AS I WRITE THIS LETTER... sitting out on a small trattoria looking out at the Grand Canal. I arrived earlier today -- easing into the time zone and relaxing before the busy few days ahead. I went on a couple of interesting walks to get reacquainted with the city and I am now pensively watching the sun setting on San Georgio Maggiore, after a delicious faraona al vino rosso con tartufi - guinea- hen with mushrooms. I first came to La Serenissima - the City of Canals fresh out of university. I was 20 then and I had never been to Europe. Crossing the pond in those days was so much easier - no security lines, no restrictions - no visas required - while crossing the borders – and the jet lag didn’t hit me then as it does now. And while my budgets then were more constrained than they are today, the best experiences in this sensuous city are there for everyone – just meandering along the canals and sitting in one of the many small piazzas. This trip I checked into Aman Canal Grande Hotel, set in a 16th-century palazzo. Restored by world renowned architect Jean Michel Gathy of Denniston Architects, and a veteran Aman collaborator - this property pays homage to its original roots. Last year it was the setting for the wedding of George Clooney to his bride Amal Alamuddin. More than a hotel, Aman Venice is home to museum-quality treasures including Tiepolo
frescoes, gilded ceilings and centuries-old leather wall coverings. It offers the rare privilege of space in the centre of the Floating City. This short Italian interlude got me thinking about how long a visit to an interesting destination needs to be before it can be called a Rediscovery? Our issue Europe’s Next Wave is very special - because it brings to life many of the wonderful things that we associate with this continent: rich architecture, design, fashion, food - and history. Despite of some of the challenges it is facing in 2016 - chief among them - safety and security - and the ongoing refugee crisis - one of the most important humanitarian issues of our time we can take comfort that wherever we travel in Europe, the sense of community, honed over centuries runs deep in the DNA – sacred and strong. We cover Europe in every issue of Bold, but we are delighted to bring you a range of stories show-casing the continent’s variety, complexity and enduring appeal. Safe travels
Marlon J. Moreno Publisher
PROUD PARTNERS OF BOLD MAGAZINE 10
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
SOPHISTICATION
Served Sky-high Whether transiting through Frankfurt on the way to Singapore or whiling away a weekend in a Munich museum, connoisseurs of air travel shouldn’t miss the long-haul Lufthansa experience.
Book your flight now at lufthansa.com
Setting Standards Sky-high
Celebrating 60 years of Long-Haul Excellence
Upgrade Yourself Their newest offering, Lufthansa’s Premium Economy Class, is an enticing choice for leisure and business travellers seeking a service upgrade without sacrificing affordability. Located between Economy and Business Classes, Premium Economy passengers enjoy 50 percent more seat room while being permitted a second piece of luggage up to 22kgs. Height-adjustable footrests, extra storage, electrical sockets, travel amenity kits and meals served on porcelain tableware round out this new level of personalized, tailored care now offered on all flights departing Canadian Lufthansa gateways (YYZ, YVR, YUL).
Renowned for its First-Class lounges – each an icon of epicurean and lavish amenities (think cigar humidors, vintage cuvée, bubble baths, chauffeured transport directly to the aircraft) – it’s no surprise Lufthansa delights in defining the leading edge of luxury air travel. But the real heart of the airline rests in its 60-year history as aeronautic innovator, setting new standards in all classes of service that keep pace with the evolving needs of the long-haul traveller. As the first airline to serve freshly-brewed coffee onboard in 1955, Lufthansa is leveraging its pedigree and applying it to the 21st Century. The results are worth fawning over - it’spositioned to become the Western Hemisphere’s first 5-star airline.
“We are listening to our customers, listening for what they want,” says CEO Karl Garnadt. “The consistency of our product is extremely important.” Overseeing 130 long-haul aircraft that fly more than 15 million passengers a year to 1300 worldwide destinations while keeping a close ear to passenger feedback has allowed Lufthansa to establish new initiatives that translates passengers into loyal guests. It’s a strategy Lufthansa has extended to all facets of its service – from the fleet-wide wireless broadband Internet, FlyNet, to the celebrity chefs that bring hautecuisine concepts up to 30,000 feet. “I hope Lufthansa guests are just wowed with their eyes and then once they’ve started eating just wowed again,” says Grant Mickels, Executive Chef of Culinary Development, of what he playfully describes as “down to earth” food. By adopting regional menus sourced with local, seasonal ingredients, this is a sophistication of air travel found across the service range and that speaks directly to Lufthansa’s commitment each one of its passengers.
The Future of Flight Travellers in 1955 could know little of the advancements that would sweep the airline industry in 60 years.The same might be said for travellers in 2015. Lufthansa already has its eyes set on the next 60, bringing their “Made in Germany” seal of quality to redefine the travel experience.
Your World THE BEST OF THE GOOD LIFE
A TRAVELLER’S TALE Around the world with Benoît Gouez - Cellar Master at Moët & Chandon
Your World GLOBETROTTER
For Benoît Gouez, Cellar Master at Moët & Chandon since 2005, the champagne business was not on his radar - “I’m not from the wine world. I arrived here through a series of encounters, circumstances and above all, intuition!“ he says. Gouez, grew up in Normandy and became interested in growing grapes and making wine, only after he enrolled at Montpellier SupAgro, an international centre for higher education in agriculture. Benoît Gouez’s passion and expertise drove him to capture the spirit of Moët & Chandon Champagne, which he has been enhancing with boldness and elegance, vintage after vintage. In 2013, the magazine “Wine Enthusiast” crowned him “Winemaker of the year 2013”. “The fact that I am not from a wine family allowed me to be more open,” he says - as he speaks about the journey that placed him on the path to becoming head of one of the most important champagne houses in the world. We caught up with this globetrotter as he embarks on an ambitious world-tour, promoting Moët & Chandon’s newest, most luxurious Champagne yet, the MCIII - a unique blend of six vintages aged across three separate ageing processes, producing a Champagne that is light, fruity yet complex without over empowering the palate. Gouez pauses and takes a sip – transporting us to the vineyards of Épernay near the ancient city of Reims. - Marlon Moreno
6
4 20
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
1
10
1. Where have you just come back from? I just returned from Madrid, Spain 2. Where in the world have you felt happiest? Definitely in Sydney, Australia 3. Name a place that most lived up to the hype?
4a
New-York, USA 4. Which is your favourite place and why? Restaurant Ledoyen in Paris, France. The cuisine of my dear friend Chef Yannick Alléno is the most creative yet authentic and sophisticated I have ever tasted. A meal there is a travel on its own. 5. What’s your guilty pleasure while travelling? Visiting the best restaurants around the world and experiencing the most authentic local food. 6. Which is your road most travelled? The road to Brittany. Going home, back to my roots. 7. Who is the most interesting person you’ve met on your travels? Roger Federer. He is a legend but so approachable. So smart. 8. What do you pack first? Swimsuit and sunglasses!
9
9. What would you like in your mini bar? A mini-Moët ! 10. “lost my heart in...” Tokyo, Japan. I am in love with any kind of Japanese food and it match so well with Moët & Chandon.
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
21
Your World TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
Nothing’s as glamorous as summer Italian Style exploring Portofino. Paige Gordon Portofino is one of the most beautiful, picture-perfect fishing ports in the Mediterranean with pretty pastel coloured houses. This is the exquisite summer playground of an international tribe of beautiful people. They come for Mediterranean gardens overlooking a postcard harbour, bottomless glasses of prosecco mixed with fresh jus d’orange, and wisteria-scented al fresco dinners that last for hours.
inspired by PORTOFINO
2 3
6
8 7 5
1
4
22
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
1. Canfora Capri sandals, $490; canfora.com. 2. Dolce & Gabbana’s Claudia Carretto print bucket bag in leather, $2,495; dolcegabbana.com. 3. Pomellato necklace Capri in matt rosé gold with lapis and rock crystals, $16,380; bandierajewellers.com. 4. Turquese swim trunks, $230; turquese.com. 5. Giorgio Armani’s SUN di Gioia $95; holtrenfrew.com. 6. Missoni Mare’s fringed crochet-knit poncho, $255; net-a-porter.com/ca. 7. ANCIENT GREEK SANDALS - Clio metallic leather and suede, $185; net-a-porter.com/ca. 8. Tuttolente by RETROSUPERFUTURE sunglasses, $295; retrosuperfuture.com
thisisegypt.com
Your World ON THE MAP
High Spirits As the temperatures rise in the Spanish capital, Madrileños look upwards, heading to one of the city’s rooftop bars in the hope of catching some of that elusive breeze. Here’s our pick of the very best. The Roof – ME Madrid Where: Plaza de Santa Ana 14 (Sol/Las Letras) The Vibe: One of Madrid’s most exclusive terraces, The Roof is achingly hip with low lighting, mozas who resemble supermodels and a strict door policy. If you want to feel a cut above the rest, see and be seen and sample some of the capital’s most expensive cocktails, The Roof is the place for you. The View: The hotel is on Plaza Santa Ana, one of Madrid’s most beautiful squares, opposite the Teatro Real, or Royal Theatre. - Lola Brown
Your World STYLE
WHY GO, Ah, Paris. C’est si bon! With its picturesque neighbourhoods, tree-lined boulevards and easygoing café culture, Paris holds a special place in the romantic imagination and springtime is when it bursts into bloom, like Ms Edith Piaf into chanson.
5
1
1. Givenchy’s Gentlemen Only Parisian Break Limited Edition, $96; theybay.com 2. JIMMY CHOO Belgravia Croc-Effect Leather High-Top Sneakers, $832; mrporter.com. 3. Rimowa’s Salsa Air, $475; rimowa.com 4. SAINT LAURENT Surf Aviator-Style Metal Mirrored Sunglasses, $435, mrporter.com 5. LEICA T 701 Silver Compact Camera, $2,200; mrporter.com 6. ClarinsMen Anti-Fatigue Eye Serum, $40; clarins.ca
26
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
Stay
Hôtel Henriette, is one of Paris’ newest boutique offerings. Designed by fashion editor Ms Vanessa Scoffier, the bohemian interiors combine vintage Danish teak with contemporary accessories, rattan furniture and flea-market finds. The chic (but surprisingly cheap) city-break hideaway also boasts a conservatory winter garden that opens onto a pocket-sized stonewalled patio.
3
2
6 4
Your World EDITOR’S PICK
simply
grand Confidently adorning the Dam Square opposite Amsterdam’s Royal Palace, the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky charms guests back to La Belle Époque
T
his year celebrating its 150th anniversary, the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky certainly does its name justice. The flagship of the three NH Collection hotels in the Netherlands, it is also easily one of the country’s most renowned – a reputation that has only grown since its latest 38-million-euro renovation. One of Amsterdam’s immutable icons, the striking property overlooks the storied Dam Square and its national monument in the heart of the city. From the street, its classical façade sparks the imagination with the promise of all the sophistication the past can muster; yet it holds a secret origin story. The Grand Krasnapolsky does not shy away from modernity – in fact, it has a long history of leading the way in hospitality innovations. First founded as a small coffee shop by A.W. Krasnapolsky, the hotel has long outgrown its humble origins but has retained its charisma and long-standing pledge to hospitality. It was the only hotel in Amsterdam at the end of the 19th Century to have hot water and telephones in all of its rooms. So innovative was this turn-of-the-century hotelier that he was the first to integrate bathrooms with hotel rooms and introduced the concept of room service. With such a pedigree, The Grand Krasnapolsky is assured in its history and elegance and can therefore be styled in a distinctly modern aesthetic without losing its ageless charm. Lead by Spanish interior designer Ramon Esteve, the design of the rooms marries natural materials and forward-looking stylings, such as unique light fixtures and brushed metals accents. Several of the property’s more striking features, such as the breathtaking breakfast room – the Wintertuin (Winter Garden) – where soaring greenhouse ceilings, potted palms and striking chandeliers will transport visitors to another era entirely. For those who are more inclined to follow their tastebuds, the White Room by three Michelin starred chef Jacob Jan Boerma is an experience not to miss. Further indulgence can be found in the climate controlled pastry room just off the lobby, which showcases splendid sweet delights for the eyes and palette. With a history that is just as much of an attraction as its comforts, a truly unbeatable location, and splendid design, it is easy to see why The Grand Krasnapolsky is a secret no more. www.nh-hotels.com/hotel/nh-collection-amsterdam-grandhotel-krasnapolsky; rates from $290. For more BOLD in Amsterdam, turn to page 47. — LIAM WILKINSON
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
27
Let Thailand bring you to your senses.
The sun glimmering on majestic golden temples from an opulent past. The ethereal sound of the khim’s strings. The indelible, relaxing aromas of jasmine and lemon grass. The tingly, spicy taste of ripe mango. The feel of a revitalizing, tranquil massage. Distinctly Thailand, in every sense.
TRAVELLER’S PROMOTION
The Luxury of a
In the Land of Smiles, history and tradition run deep. We visit the birthplace of the now renowned Thai massage, get the treatment and honour and iconic ode to Buddha along the way
PRODUCED BY
Photo by Swadric ABDOURAZAKOU
PROMOTIONS
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
TRAVELLER’S PROMOTION
Wat Po. The Grand Palace. The Temple of the Reclining Buddha. The Wat Po Thai Traditional Medical and Massage School. Wait. What? Temples and Palaces and a Buddha – and Massage? Yes.
A
mong the walls of the stunning Wat Po sits the traditional massage school, opened in 1955 and under the auspices of the Thai Ministry of Education. But this is not the first “school” here. In 1782, after King Rama I founded Bangkok, he took up the task of restoring the temple to its former glory, a royal monastery. During this time, his majesty declared the temple Thailand’s first open university, and a place where Thai Traditional Medicine techniques and the arts could flourish. And they did. The treatments, sometimes known as TTM, are now practiced by therapists the world over. And, although TTM basic principles of traditional medicine and wellness are hundreds of years in the making, it is these same principles that are the inspiration to many spa treatments we experience today, and the precursor to why Thailand has gained a reputation as a luxury spa destination. But here, surrounded by the spectacular beauty that is Wat Po, there’s an essence to having the treatment that is almost indescribable. Upon entering the temple grounds, there’s a change. The sunlight bounces and reflects off the glimmering stupas, whitewashed buildings seem even whiter, painted murals that story-tell the travels of the Buddha that line some of the interior walls are more vibrant. The ruby and saffron robes of monks coming for daily prayer offer a stark contrast to the stone walkways, their smiles, however, fit right into the daily happiness factor of these people. Generous, outgoing, kind, quick to laugh. These are traits that the Thai people carry and show to the world – I like to call it the Thai effect. It is, however, a different story once inside the massage school. A large, spare room, rectangular – not quite as long as the room the Reclining Buddha occupies, but it seems so as you are escorted to your massage bed. En route,
32
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
it’s a sea of the same: flat, palette-like mattresses lined side by side along the hardwood floor; therapists dressed in white or bright yellow, teak-lined windows letting in the natural light. Before taking your own reclining pose, you’re asked to change your clothes into robe-like garments. There’s a private change room at the back, and your therapist waits for you while you disrobe. Once back at your assigned spot, you are asked to lie down. That’s when the real fun begins. A 30-minute treatment runs the wellness gamut, from relieving muscle fatigue to reducing tension to joint mobility, the hands – and elbows, and knees, and feet – work in harmony to get the kinks out. This is by no means a soft touch. TTM is serious business. It’s not that it’s rough either, just targeted and deep. Limbs are pulled, necks are stretched, backs are put back into place. Therapists, dressed in white or bright yellow climb up, around and over your body and around the mattress to use resistance and theirown muscles to stretch, pull and work out yours. It may not sound relaxing but, after a half hour of this studied manipulation, you emerge, well, relaxed. Maybe even a bit lighter? It is said to aid lymphatic drainage. Or is it younger? TTM can improve the immune system’s functionality, giving it an anti-aging benefit. And absolutely feeling a sense of calm. Once outside, the bright sunshine is still doing its dance with the Wat Po’s array of colourful sculptures, stupas and smaller shrines. A stop to give a nod to the Reclining Buddha is necessary, to pay respect to this culture. He is as exquisite as his surroundings, the soles of his feet alone are a marvel of mother of pearl carvings and imagery, taller than most humans; his golden head tilted just so, as if to say, “Don’t worry, be happy.” Thai effect, indeed. www.watpomassage.com
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
33
TRAVELLER’S PROMOTION
REJUVENATE Chiva Som, Hua Hin
T
his is one of the original getaway spas, blazing a trail of luxe wellness since opening in 1995. Devotees such as Kate Moss and Madonna came to detox; now next gen spa-goers can Botox while they cleanse, making it a consistent game-changer on the spa landscape. Health and overall wellbeing is the goal, with an analysis of your physical condition upon arrival – the spa also features a medical wing where the aforementioned Botox and fillers, too, are administered. Food is simple and fresh, and the menu benefits from Thailand’s long growing season. Sleek, modern upgrades to the rooms give off a calming vibe, while the disconnection from the world (read no cell phones or computers) is strictly adhered to outside of guest bedrooms. Take advantage of the property’s beachside location; walks on the long stretches of sand along the Gulf of Thailand can be as therapeutic as a day of treatments on the spa beds. What to try: The Chi Nei Tsang massage that’s said to aid digestion; if you’re looking for a bit of a refreshed look, book a jowl-tightening treatment
34
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
Editors’ Tip: Book now for next year, as its popularity has never waned. And check the retreat’s calendar, as over the course of the year, there are visiting and consulting experts in everything from Tai Chi to Rolfing to Acupuncture. www.chivasom.com
TRAVELLER’S PROMOTION
RENEW Kamalaya, Koh Samui
H
anging above the beachside crowds of this popular holiday destination in the Gulf of Thailand, Kamalaya is perched high up a steep hillside within the island’s rainforest. The jungle setting encourages a quieter meditation, but also a sort of natural networking with other guests that only a remote locale can inspire. And remote it is: architecturally, it’s ensconced in the surrounding flora and fauna, but with an airy outlook that’s nothing but the deep blue sea. It’s like it, too, is one of the gnarly trees, anchoring its giant roots among the bougainvillaea and banana trees. If yoga and Eastern leaning wellness is your thing, this is the place. Its founders are a husband and wife team, mixing his yogi training and her Chinese medicine practice. But this doesn’t mean the spa’s gone soft. Intensive fitness classes in the top-notch gym, including posture-inducing pilates, are on the class calendar; hikes around the 9-acre property – a night-time stroll to an ancient
Buddhist monk’s cave – and mentoring sessions provide balance to an otherwise otherworldly experience. Of course, being on an island, the beach is never too far away, so if you hear the sea’s siren call, you can meditate on that, too. What to try: Yes, book a meditation session. Former Buddhist monks are among the teachers. www.kamalaya.com
TRAVELLER’S PROMOTION
RECHARGE Six Senses,Yao Noi
A
nother island destination, Ko Yao Noi sits in Phang-Nga Bay of the Andaman Sea, between Phuket and the mainland city of Krabi, making it fairly easy to get to. Sports medicine is one of this world-renowned outfit’s focuses, where technology and Asian techniques are combined to create individualized wellness plans. This year, the spa has also opened its new wellness pavilion, complete with gym and an elevated yoga platform. But the platform is not the only thing that’s elevated: feel like you want to soar through the air with greatest of ease? Flying yoga hammocks have been installed, and yoga classes have been tailored to utilize them, giving
36
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
guests a lightness of being – not to mention an easing on their aching, jet-lagged joints! – and a body altering experience in yoga that is fun and also challenging, without the strain. Sleep health, diet, holistic therapies and more are available, with physiological biomarkers of the individual patient taking the lead. But sometimes the body craves a little more physicality. The wellness pavilion is also stocked with high-tech gym equipment for both cardio and resistance training, but the coolest kid on the block here is a science-based program called Fusionetics. It’s a 10-year program in the making, researched by sports medicine pros, athletes and scientists, all about analyzing how your body moves, and then tailoring a training program that will make the most of your personal fitness level with a mind to improving it, while reducing the risk of injury. Couture fitness? We say, why not? What to try: Sunrise yoga, a daily salutation to the sun that’s free to all guests. www.sixsenses.com/resorts/yao-noi/ destination
TRAVELLER’S PROMOTION
GENTLEMEN 137 Pillars House, Chiang Mai
T
he idea of a massage is nothing new, but many men still seem to think that encompasses a vigorous Swedish rubdown with Sven, the massive-armed masseuse. Not that we’re knocking that (we’re fans of massive arms, after all) but at 137 Pillars House, the spa directors have registered a heightening awareness of the benefits of spa-style wellness and treatments from the male persuasion. To wit, they’ve developed a new menu, aptly called “Time Out.” From hot-oil massages to body scrubs, it’s a top to toe offering that’s time, so to speak, has come. And boys, do get a manicure. There’s something about being buffed and polished, including your paws. Oh, and there’s something about having said treatments in a teak, 18th century colonial homestead in a leafy enclave of northern Thailand. Bliss. What to try: Go the whole nine yards and book the 120 minute men’s package, which includes the above going deep tissue, detoxing and a facial. www.137pillarshouse.com BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
37
26
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
SPECIAL FEATURE
An effervescent week-long trek through Northeastern Italy’s Prosecco wine region, resplendent with nature, medieval cities, and of course, charming wineries
B
etween the crowded canals of Venice and the ashy rocks of the Dolomites rests the unexpectedly lush Strada del Prosecco, Italy’s oldest wine route. Grapes produced here are used solely for Italy’s most famous sparkling wine, Prosecco. Over seven days, we will explore the enchanting Prosecco Hills, up close and personal. We strap on our shoes for all manner of terrain, including cobble-stone streets, dirt roads and forest trails, taking us through picturesque rolling hills, charming villages, and inside local wineries. Don’t worry-there will be lots of chances to stop and savour local old-style cuisine and some refreshing bubbles along the way.
GRAPE EXPECTATIONS An aerial view of the Prosecco hills vineyards; Glera grapes.
IT TAKES A VILLA There are no shortage of towns to visit in the area, each with its own unique charms, fascinating history, and stunning buildings. After arriving from Venice, the first town we visit is Cison di Valmarino, one of the best-preserved villages in the area. Inhabited since perhaps the Prehistoric times, Bronze Age artifacts still remain here, and it was an important defense position against the barbarian invasions of the Middles Ages. The gentle walk follows a waterway and crosses tranquil woodlands, passing by the ancient Castel Brando, which offers panoramic views of farms and villages below. Built in the Roman Age, the monolithic medieval castle soars 370 metres above sea level, built into the Dolomites rocks. Over the years, it has been used as everything from a military hospital to monastery, centre for spiritual studies to a 4-star hotel. Not far from Castel Brando is the small town of Follina, immersed in Veneto’s lush landscapes. There are lots of lovely, authentic restaurants around, but it’s most famous for its 12th-century Cistercian monastery of Santa Maria. Don’t miss the stunning cloister! Across the Piave River is Maser, home to the Villa di Maser (Villa Barbaro), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built by master Italian
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
39
WINE & DINE (clockwise) Refreshing Prosecco cocktails; the Prosecco Hills are alive; grilled sardines; the opulent exterior of the Villa di Maser
steep slopes make it only possible to do the work by hand. The majority of the winemakers span fifteen towns and 20,000 hectares, including fraziones, San Pietro di Barbozza and Santo Stefano. This makes is the ideal location to meet local producers (with generations of wine-making history), tour their twisty vineyards, and learn their process. Oh, and sample their deliciously bubbly creations!
PROSECCO BY THE BOTTLE
• Made in the Veneto region from Glera grapes • Fermented in stainless steel tanks, rather than in the bottle • Intensely aromatic and crisp, with apple, pear, white peach, and apricot notes • Two varieties: Frizzante (lightly sparkling) and Spumante (full sparkling) • 11-12% alcohol • 121 calories per glass • 150 million bottles produced each year
architect Andrea Palladio, six of its rooms are adorned by beautiful frescos by Paolo Veronese. And most impressive is the romantic city of Treviso, with its dramatic protective city walls and tranquil waterways. It’s also the birthplace of delectable Italian dessert, tiramisu, so you’d be wise to sample some while you’re here! THE FULL MONTE Venture away from town to experience the extraordinary natural wonders and untouched
splendor of the Italian countryside, from stunning mountaintop vistas to serene waterways. Head beyond Treviso’s walls to follow the Sile River, the longest river of resurgent waters in Europe. You will have the chance to see some of the country’s local flora and fauna, including the colourful Kingfisher. For a bit more exercise (and to burn off that tiramisu), climb Monte San Giorgio, another UNESCO site, since it contains the single best known record of marine life in the Triassic, period. Its unique combination of tropical lagoon environment, separated from the open sea, and diverse marine life, made it an ideal location for fossil preservation. But for the best views in the area, visit the top of the 1570-metre Monte Cesen, humble by Alps-standards, but the highest in the area. It offers
a stunning panorama, stretching as far as the Eastern Alps, Dolomites, and even Venice. GET THEE TO THE WINERY And let’s not forget the reason we’re here: the wine! Veneto is one of the world’s best yet largely undiscovered wine regions. The endless rows of grapevines on its hills are dedicated exclusively to Glera grapes, used for Italy’s most prized sparkling wine: Prosecco. Valdobbiadene, the capital of Prosecco country, is a wine growing paradise on the edge of the Alps, providing the perfectly cool climate for grapes. But the
Inspired by the way our editors travel, BOLD magazine presents a series of premium itineraries for extraordinary places around the globe, available for purchase through EXODUS Travels; offering cultural, hiking, wildlife and cycling tours to 100 + countries worldwide. CALL 1-800-267 3347 or VISIT WWW.EXODUSTRAVELS.COM
Here & Now
INSPIRATION + BEAUTY + DESIGN
Europe’s New Wave The bronze sculpture ”Woman by the Sea” by Ivar Johnsson and the The Seamen’s Tower was erected in memory of Swedish seamen who perished on board Swedish vessels in the First World War. The names of 684 Swedish seamen, including 36 women, are engraved on the tower’s plinth.
Scandi Chic
Here and Now EUROPE’S NEW WAVE
Forget palm trees and tropical beaches – Scandinavian cool is hot – Vawn Himmelsbach
At one time, Scandinavia brought to mind ABBA, furniture that requires assembly and mackerel -based culinary traditions. But now it’s a hotbed of design, décor, fashion, literary mysteries and Nordic noir. It also has one of the hottest culinary scenes in Europe, with Michelin-starred chefs turning traditional dishes into New Nordic fare. The allure of Denmark, Sweden and Norway is amplified by their high rankings on global prosperity and happiness indexes. Despite long, cold winters, Scandinavians know how to celebrate life. And perhaps that’s even more of a draw than their charming cities and breathtaking natural landscapes. There’s plenty of culture here, with cobbled city centres, historic timbered houses, crumbling castles and old Viking ships. It’s a region of stunning natural beauty, with lakes and forests in the south and glaciers and fjords in the far north. Even its dark winters are drawing visitors from around the world to witness the red, blue and purple lights of the aurora borealis in the Arctic Circle, and perhaps catch a glimpse of wild reindeer. Though Scandinavia is sparsely populated (more so as you travel further north), travelling here is surprisingly easy. Though Scandinavian languages
appear completely incomprehensible to most native English speakers, most people here speak excellent English, and infrastructure is on par with Germany (the trains actually leave on time). There are plenty of short-haul flights with national airlines; travel by train is easy and comfortable, and border crossings take place without having to get out of your comfort-class seat (Eurail now offers a Scandinavia Pass that covers all three countries, as well as Finland). Hop off at any central station, and you’ll be within walking distance of swanky hotels. It’s also a great way to experience the countryside; the route from Oslo to Bergen, for example, is considered one of the world’s most scenic train journeys, as you ascend into rugged mountains past snowfields reminiscent of Antarctica. Whether it’s soaking up the relaxed vibe in Copenhagen, eating your way through Sweden or going snap-happy with your camera in Norway’s unearthly landscapes, you may find you don’t ever want to leave this part of the world.
C
openhagen is considered the world’s ‘happiest’ capital city, regularly topping the list of global happiness surveys. It’s easy to see why, as you wander the streets of this storybook city that blends its 1,000-year-old history with edgy, modern cool. Along narrow, cobblestoned streets, past castles, canals and bell towers, you’ll discover restos and cafés that are somehow minimalist and cozy at the same time, and will entice you to stay awhile. In Copenhagen, there are plenty of attractions, like the Rosenborg Castle, the Tivoli Gardens (which inspired Walt Disney) and the Carlsberg Museum. But one of the city’s biggest attractions is its culinary scene. No one used to travel to Denmark for the food. Then noma opened its doors – repeatedly named the best restaurant in the world – and we saw the rise of New Nordic fare that has made the city a global hotspot for cuisine. While it may be near impossible to get a reservation at noma, there’s no shortage of opportunities to expand your waistline in Copenhagen. The city has 18 Michelin stars – more than any other Scandinavian city – and 10 Bib Gourmand restaurants, which emphasize value for
Copenhagen, Denmark quality. It also has a growing street food scene: Head to Torvehallerne, a luxury food market with delis, bakeries, cafés, cheese shops and vegetable stands. Or, check out Copenhagen Street Food – across the harbour on Paper Island, but just a 10-minute bike ride from the city centre – which offers up food trucks in a distinctly maritime setting. The Danes also have a thing for gourmet hot dogs – and they do it in style. At Foderbrættet in the hip Vesterbro district, for example, gourmet hot dogs are paired with Champagne. Shopaholics will get their fix in Copenhagen. After all, the city has one of the longest pedestrian shopping streets in Europe: Strøget. You’ll find the usual suspects, along with top Danish brands renowned for their clean, simple lines and quality materials. It’s well worth taking the time to explore side streets and discover small boutiques with up-and-coming local designers. While there’s plenty to see and do, the true pleasure of Copenhagen is wandering its cobbled streets, sipping a beer on a terrace by the canal and letting yourself get lost in the fairytale surroundings that once inspired Hans Christian Andersen. Dine: Marchal, in Hotel D’angleterre Dish: The chateaubriand, served with marrow, potato puree, dried cheese and truffle gravy, will melt in your mouth; for dessert, go for the pine oil ice with crispy pear and stick celery juice with chanterelle ice cream. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
43
Gothenburg, Sweden
W
hile Stockholm is a must-see, Gothenburg is one of Sweden’s up-and-coming destinations – a former industrial town that has transformed itself into a cultural hub, turning abandoned buildings into funky, urban spaces for art, dining and festivals. With a charming city centre built around canals, it’s also becoming known for its gastronomic scene. Gothenburg’s coastal location provides easy access to fresh fish and shellfish from the cold, clear water of the North Sea (here, fish and shellfish grow slower, developing a fuller flavour). Indeed, a trip to the fish market should top your list of must-dos. This isn’t just any fish market: Feskekorka is built like a wooden medieval stave church dating back to 1874 with a sleek, modern interior. It’s the perfect place to pick up some fresh prawns to enjoy by the edge of the canal. And don’t miss the Swedish tradition of fika – having coffee and a cinnamon bun (or other pastry). This is a social institution; it’s mandated at work. And somehow, despite this higher-than-average consumption of cinnamon buns, Swedes tend to be slender and fit. The city is brimming with cafés, some cozy and comforting, others modern and minimalist – and a few tucked away in hidden alleyways
or courtyards. In Magasinsgatan, a trendy, cobbled street that’s home to independent designer shops, you’ll find Da Matteo café with its sourdough bakery and ACNE-clad hipsters – considered one of the best cafés in all of Sweden. Seven restaurants in Gothenburg have been awarded a Michelin star, but there’s a range of culinary options to suit every budget; don’t miss the local food market for lunch or a snack. For Swedish comfort fare, try local institution Kometen, run by chef Leif Mannerstrom, or head to Michelin-starred SK Mat & Manniskor to sample more traditional Swedish dishes. To help you eat your way through Gothenburg, you can book foodie tours and lobster safaris, or go fishing and oyster picking along the coast. The west coast stretches from Gothenburg to the border of Norway, dotted with thousands of islands with smooth, granite rocks and quaint fishing villages. Best way to see it? Explore it by kayak, followed by a seaweed bath at the spa. Dine: Restaurant Gabriel (in Feskekorka) Dish: This is where you’ll find about 90 per cent of Sweden’s weekly allotment of rare flat oysters, best served with Ostronporter, a porter-style beer brewed with oysters.
attractions). Be sure to try a local specialty: fish cakes and spicy shilling buns. In the land of the midnight sun, strawberries, morello cherries, plums and Hardanger apples are particularly juicy, thanks to all that summer sunshine. Bergen is also the perfect base for day trips and outdoor adventure, from fjord tours and river rafting to kayaking, climbing, abseiling, glacier walks, cycling trips and, in winter, Nordic skiing. The region’s coastline offers up thousands of islands to explore, perfect for adventurers, nature-lovers and photographers alike. One of Norway’s most popular fjord tours is Norway in a Nutshell, which allows travellers to experience the Flåm Railway and a fjord cruise on the Nærøyfjord. The trip is offered year-round and takes about nine hours – passing through some of the most stunning landscapes in Norway.
B
ergen is the gateway to Norway’s rugged fjords, but it should be considered more than a stopping-off point – it’s a destination unto itself. This charming city grew up around its harbour, as a hub of commerce, seafaring and craftsmanship. Surrounded by seven mountains, the city’s colourful red-roofed wooden houses cling to the mountainsides, linked by steep, narrow streets (berg is an old Norse word for mountain). Back in the 13th century, the Hansas (a league of German merchants) opened one of their four European offices at the wharf, called Bryggen. Hundreds of years later, Bryggen is still here, with its medieval wooden houses, and has gained a place on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. This northern city – as far north as Anchorage, Alaska – has long been a cultural hub, home to one of the world’s oldest symphony orchestras and the country’s first national theatre. Yet, from the city centre, it only takes about 10 minutes to reach the top of a mountain, with access to plenty of hiking trails. On a balmy summer evening, sip beer on the wharfside; if it’s chilly, slip into a cozy wine cellar. Snack on smoked salmon and fresh shrimp from the highly popular Fish Market (one of Norway’s top tourist
Bergen, Norway
Dine: Enhjørningen (The Unicorn) Dish: Considered the best seafood restaurant in Bergen, order the catch of the day (you can’t go wrong) or try the lettsaltet lysing (salted hake) with creamed carrots and bacon. The smoked salmon here may be the best you’ve ever had.
LIVE BOLD. WANDER FAR BOLDINSPIRATIONS.CA
A RBC AVION PRESENTS: AMSTERDAM 速
A friendly, welcoming vibe is part of Amsterdam’s architectural DNA. You sense it stepping into the city’s oldest bar, the Café In ‘t Aepjen, dating from 1544. A picturesque example of a brown café, so-called for the dark wood and smoke-stained walls, the place is blessedly free of the deafeningly loud ambience of bars and restos in, say, New York. You don’t have to shout yourself hoarse to converse with pub mates.
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
49
Top: The foyer at the Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol Bottom: Cyclists enjoying a sunny day
That sentiment of intimacy replicates on an architectural and city-planning scale, making Amsterdam an unusually enjoyable city for walking and biking. Think of the metaphor of the cat and the carton: If I leave an empty cardboard box lying about the living room, Gloria will snuggle inside it instead of napping out in the open on the couch. So after several hours of sightseeing the big museums and monuments along the wide-open main boulevards, the 100-plus kilometres of narrow, intimate, tree-lined canals beckon. The three main canals, Herengracht, Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht, forming concentric water jackets around the city, were dug in the 17th century during the Dutch Golden Age when the Netherlands was briefly the wealthiest nation in the world. Now, Amsterdam’s split personality reveals itself. Yes, there is the Bright Lights, Big City, but then turn a corner and the canals instantly transport you to another, more tranquil place resembling the frozen-in-medieval-time Bruges, in nearby Flanders. Water is an acoustically absorbent material, so a canal-full of it helps cut down on noise from the cobblestone pavement, enhancing the feeling of peace and quiet. Rows of delightfully quirky gable-roofed houses line the 17th-century Canal Belt, placed on UNESCO’s World Heritage list in 2011. The window openings in the jostling facades act as private box seats to rubberneck the open-air summer concerts on the Prinsengracht Canal. Watching the neighbours watching the concert can be as entertaining as watching the musicians, who sit on a stage on a pontoon floating in front of the Hotel Pulitzer. Le tout Amsterdam turns out: stylishly coifed ladies in designer outfits and men in business suits in the exclusive ticketed seats near the stage; others watching for free from boats. The coziness principal, if we can call it that, surely drove the jungle-gym design aspect of the famous 3D Amsterdam sign (and its Toronto knock-off), where snuggling opportunities—the loops in the lowercase “a”s, for instance—attract kids of all ages, who giggle with delight as friends snap their pictures. The Amsterdam sign fronts the Rijksmuseum, the country’s principal fine-arts museum, where Rembrandt’s Nightwatch plays the art superstar counterpart to the Louvre’s Mona Lisa. However, while Paris’s art palace greets visitors with American architect I.M. Pei’s chilly glass pyramid erupting from an empty, wind-swept plaza, the Rijksmuseum sits on the grassy Museumplein (museum quarter). Here, the Rijksmuseum engages in urbane conversation with its arts-and-culture neighbours, the Van Gogh and Stedeljk (modern art) museums and the Concertgebouw concert hall. The Museumplein’s stands of trees, bike paths and walkways—and the tilting, grassed-over roof of the entrance to the underground parking adjacent to the Van Gogh Museum entrance—encourage sitting, meandering and casual encounters. As part of the Rijksmuseum’s recent 375-million-Euro renovation, the 1885 building’s inner courtyards were linked to form a 24,000-square-foot skylit atrium where masses of art-loving humanity pass through the array of multi-level entrances to exhibition areas and elevator pods popping up from the floor like a ship’s funnels, or congregate at the big circular Grand Central-reminiscent information desk. The perfect vantage point to watch this hellzapoppin’ spectacle is the museum café and lounge, elevated on a platform at one end of the atrium and boasting excellent food and friendly service.
50
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
Clockwise from top left: Exterior of the Rijksmuseum; typical home in Amsterdam; Almere district; the Canal belt; Van Gogh Museum; traditional cheese market.
If you have a bucket list, even if you’re not into classical music, do visit the Concertgebouw. Yes, the resident orchestra of the same name is superb. But the star of the show is the hall’s acoustics. Critics and conductors consistently rate the 1887 building as one of the three greatest concert halls in the world (along with Vienna’s Musikvereinsaal and Boston’s Symphony Hall). The secret is the architecture: a shoe-box shape, with narrow width and high ceiling, flat floor, a raised platform with amphitheatre seating for the musicians at one end, and a shallow balcony around the three other sides. The direct sound from the stage blends with the slightly delayed reflections from the hard plaster surfaces of the walls and balcony soffits. The hall’s unusually long (2.2 seconds) reverberation time acts like the sustaining pedal on a piano. These interactions reinforce bass frequencies and give the music a full, rich, tone—the aural analogue to chocolate sauce or plush velvet. If you’re in town for more than a day or two and want a break from the tidy downtown ’hoods, take a walk on the wild side and join the hipsters riding the free public ferry that departs every 15 minutes from the Amsterdam Central Station dock to Amsterdam-Noord. You’ll glide by the brightly graffiti-ed, rusting Soviet Zulu V class submarine—a venue for private parties—located in the Maritime Quarter, the former NDSM shipyard. That submarine is a harbinger of gritty, raw, and oh-so-cool things to come. Near the ferry dock, industrial artifacts abound, such as the hulking, twisted torso of a gantry crane, with trees growing inside its trusses and weeds obscuring the black and yellow zigzags on its train-wheel bogies. Speaking of cranes, the district’s Crane 13 morphed last year into the Faralda Crane Hotel, whose website advertises “spacious and high-end suites” accessible by way of a “private panorama elevator” in “the highest crane hotel in the world.” Almost anywhere the eye alights in Amsterdam-Noord’s former port area, you’ll see graffiti. But in a profusion, variety and pristine condition that bespeak approval from city hall. Indeed, the city sponsors the most gifted graffiti creators and designates walls where budding young Jean-Michel Basquiats can legally do their thing. Not that street art here is confined to the sides of buildings. Some of the most painterly, sophisticated graphic creations adorn shipping containers or weathered concrete remains. Feeling peckish? Shamble over to the vibrant bohemian resto Noorderlicht Café, set within an acrylic Quonset hut, where you can catch a live samba band and then browse next door at the flea market. For one-stop shopping for a meal, free music and a relaxing urban beach ambience, make the short walk to Pilek, a trendy, Texas-themed restaurant whose walls comprise stacked used shipping containers; acid-blue corrugated rusting metal walls form the primary decorating motif. Seek and ye shall find! Just take care not to trip on bits of broken concrete and shards of steel rebar. We did say it was the wild side, after all.
52
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
Images courtesy of Insight Vacations
Adriatic Anew The lure of Croatia’s historic Dalmatian coast – Waheeda Harris
View of the Adriatic Coast
A From L to R: Diocletian’s palace; beachgoers during the summer; cobble stone street with arch in the old town of Dubrovnik; Marco Polo’s alleged house of birth in Korula.
Residents are happy to carry on the tradition of choosing indulgence over work
s I stroll along the waterfront of Old Town Split, I see laid-back locals gathered for their afternoon ritual – steaming espresso and conversation. I had planned to discover the Old Town’s hidden gems, but I realize, it’s more important to sit in the sun and gaze at the azure Adriatic Sea. Well, they do say when in Rome… and, like the Romans who arrived here in third century BCE, residents of this Croatian city are happy to carry on the tradition of choosing indulgence over work, within the Old Town’s most famous site: Diocletian’s Palace. This extensive network of narrow pathways, sunny courtyards and underground storehouses was built as the retirement home by the Emperor who had left behind the massive Roman Empire to focus on the good life. Souvenir shops and stylish boutiques are easily found within the palace limestone walls, while the 3,000 residents of the Old Town cajole visitors with traditionally embroidered textiles and glasses of Plavac Mali, a Croatian red varietal sourced from the country’s viticulture epicentre, the nearby islands of Vis and Korcula. Now I understand why Diocletian wanted to stay here: his Roman love of luxury and beauty would have been satiated at every turn. Greek settlers arrived on these shores in the 5th Century BC, bringing their wine growing abilities to this arable land. Vineyards and orchards are a regular sight as the road takes me from Split through the Neretva River Valley, a fertile delta known for oranges, pomegranates and tangerines. I stop at a roadside stand high above the valley to taste sugar-coated orange peel and dried fruit, a perfect afternoon pick-me-up as the road heads back down to sea level. The Adriatic’s brilliant range of blues welcomes me back while along the quiet Peljesac Peninsula, the small towns and villages a gateway to off-shore islands. I wish I could dive into the crystal clear waters, joining the Italians, French, Hungarians and other Eastern Europeans who regularly visit this holiday hot zone, retracing their ancestors steps, who wanted to make Croatia their irresistible prize. At the town of Mali Ston, the imposing Wall of Ston may have been built to keep out invaders trying to lay claim to the Republic of Ragusa, a territory established in the 13th century that stretched down to Dubrovnik. Now it’s a historical footnote of the numerous foreigners who came to lay a claim here, like the Ottomans, Venetians and the French, under Napoleon, and the Germans and Russians in the 20th century. The French emperor became a noted patron of Bay of Mali Ston oysters, which has been producing the tasty bivalves since Roman times. A small boat takes me to a family oyster farm
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
57
“I’m considering
myself becoming a resident, adding myself to the list of foreigners who have wanted to occupy Croatia’s alluring Dalmatian coast.
”
and I’m willing to channel my inner empress to taste the bivalve for its worthiness. This is the ultimate farm to table experience: as soon as the oysters are pulled from the water, the shells are pried open and quickly eaten, the salty and briny taste and scent a welcome experience to my very happy palate. A four hour drive brings me to Dubrovnik, a walled medieval city with a modern welcome. The Franjo Tudman Bridge, completed in 2002, is a sleek entry to a city that has seen its fair share of invaders and, now, is deemed worthy of visitors as fuel for their Instagram feed. As the capital of the Republic of Ragusa, this fortified city is a shrine to limestone architecture sourced from the island of Brac, resulting in its becoming a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979. I choose a walking tour to learn about Dubrovnik’s history and its present day starring role as a location for HBO’s award-winning series Game of Thrones. Now Europeans, Americans and Canadians make up an endless stream of visitors and arrive via cruise ships for a quick hit of Croatia while a younger set hoping to spot the Mother of Dragons enjoy lunch at the narrow cafes found among the limestone walkways that circle the city. After seeing how the Game of Thrones production team transforms the old town into King’s Landing, I’m spending my afternoon walking the two kilometres along the top of the wall, gazing at the Adriatic Sea once again. I stop at the famed Buza Bar for a late day libation in the sun, and with a glass of Croatian wine, I’m considering myself becoming a resident, adding myself to the list of foreigners who have wanted to occupy Croatia’s alluring Dalmatian coast. L to R: View of Dubrovnik Cathedral; the serene blue of the Adriatic Coast.
58
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
Aerial view of Luberon
At once luxurious and charming, the Luberon region of Provence entices Jacqueline Swartz to revel in its duality
hat a series of delights – shadows on ochre-washed stone, colours as vivid as the tomato and lavender that grow here, perched villages, as they are called, high above fields of olive groves and almond trees and the local Cavaillon melon known all over France. This is Provence’s Luberon, an area designated as a “regional natural park,” even though it includes towns and villages. The region offers experiences both luxurious and rustic, each with its own charms. But the overwhelming aura is pleasure, no matter what the price tag. The epicentre of luxe in this region is Gordes, the terraced hilltop village that has attracted artists and movie stars for decades. Officially designated one of the most beautiful villages in France, it features five star hotels, as well as boutiques run by Parisians who are there
62
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
Previous page: The sunrise and lavender fields. This page clockwise from top left: tomato and eggplant salad; exterior of Les Gordes Manger Restaurant; colourful home; fresh vegetables in the local market.
only during the season. But along the spiraling cobblestone paths, past fountains and arches, and houses built in grey and white stone, you can find unpretentiousness, too. The restaurant Gordes a Manger consists of eight tables set outdoors under a sycamore tree. The food is organic and scrupulously seasonal. “Don’t ask me for a tomato in winter,” insists chef Jacky, who owns the place with his wife Christine. I am having lunch here with my art teacher, Jean-Claude Lorber. His paintings have been displayed in galleries in Paris and London, but he also sees teaching as a calling. I have been staying at the arist’s other creation, his restored stone farmhouse called the Mas des Amandiers, (www.mas-des-amandiers.com). On the first floor are light-coloured stone floors, woven rugs and a few well-placed pieces of
local wooden furniture. On the second floor there are three spacious rentable bedrooms and baths. Breakfast, laid out by his wife, Chantal, includes local goat cheese and bread still warm from the bakery. The artist’s studio is a few steps away, and you can take classes with Jean-Claude, whether or not you stay at the Mas, a local word for farmhouse. A few kilometres away is Cavaillon, the transportation hub of the region. Not as glamorous as Gordes, it’s a market town of 25,000, where people live all year round. On market Monday, the entire centre of the town is filled with stalls offering everything from fruit to scarves. There are enticing fabric and cookware stores selling updated versions of the familiar Provencal designs, as well. Cavaillon is also BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
63
Experiences to be had at the Hôtel Le Mas des Grès This page clockwise from top left: afternoon aperitifs; guests dining al fresco; home made jams; deluxe rooms: Opposite: guest relaxing in the garden.
the point of departure for dozens of hikes, horseback riding and mountain climbing, much of it organized by the tourist board (www.parcduluberon.fr). As if to emphasize the point, rising up behind the tourism office is St. Jacques hill, which is on the pilgrim walk to St. Jacques de Compostelle. To scale Cavaillon’s culinary heights, I visit its Michelin-starred restaurant, headed by chef Jean-Jacques Prevot. Restaurant Prevot (www.restaurant-prevot.com) is elegant but not formal, with pastel walls, white furniture and flowers, and inventive seasonal menus. Chef Prevot is famous for his creativity and high spirits, trading his toque for a Panama hat. The menu in May featured asparagus a dozen ways. One prix fixe began with scampi with hazelnut, green asparagus
64
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
and foie gras cream. It ended with panna cotta with asparagus mascarpone mousse with lime and almond biscuit. In the nearby countryside is a rustic paradise, Le Mas des Gres (www.masdesgres.com). It’s a 14-room country inn situated in a garden, with tables outdoors framed by a grapevine. At apertif time, those tables hold exquisite tidbits of olives, aubergine and tomato, served beneath thick, gnarly plane trees that look like something Cezanne might have painted. Le Mas de Gres is Table d’Hôte, so guests eat dinner in the large dining room. (Wine is included, of course.) Chef Thierry Crovara, who resembles the late Pavarotti, owns the inn with his wife Nina; he is chef and host. One memorable meal featured scallops on spinach
and lobster sauce. Dessert was a poached peach in almond milk. The Mas offers a variety of activities, from cooking lessons to cycling, truffle hunting in season to wine tasting in the local vineyards. For me the best tour is accompanying chef Crovara to the local farmer’s market, watching him as he sniffs the tomatoes and chats with the farmers. In the afternoon I pick thyme and rosemary from the back garden and help make the tapenade for the aperitif, using black olives and thyme, capers, anchovies and garlic and lemon juice. Then I observe Chef making an easy dish called a Tian of Provencal vegetables: a version of ratatouille that is baked in the oven for 20 minutes, then tomatoes are added for another 20 minutes.
It’s hard to leave such a convivial place, but it was time to go up again, to the impressive 17th century village of Menerbes, rising far above the green fields. This is where Picasso’s mistress, the photographer and artist Dora Maar lived, in a house given to her by her rejecting lover. Nearby, is the House of Truffles and Wine. The building was once someone’s mansion. Today, in the “cave” below is a wine cellar and tasting bar. On the sunny terrace above, I lunch on three succulent courses of truffled dishes, including guinea fowl studded with truffles on top of polenta, and a dessert of caramelized baked apple with truffles. Over a glass of chilled wine, I look out at the green valley below and marvel at the pleasures of the Provence experience – both luxe and rustic. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
65
Beyond PEOPLE & PLACES
INSIDER’S GUIDE SPECIAL:
United Kingdom and Ireland Where to see and be seen in England’s capital, sip a wee dram – or three – in Scotland, and sleep like a Guinness in rural Ireland - MURIEL PRATS
Image courtesy of ‘VistBritain/Andrew Pickett
London, England The view from Victoria Tower of the Houses of Parliament, the River Thames, Westminster and Westminster Bridge, to the Millennium Wheel and other landmarks in the evening as the light fades.
Beyond PEOPLE & PLACES This is a hot year for Great Britain and Ireland. From the 400th anniversary of the death of Shakespeare to the 40th anniversary punk (God Save the Queen!) to the farewell of Downton Abbey, Lady England is getting her game on. Ireland and Northern Ireland continue to play host to our fantasies, featured as the backdrops to Game of Thrones and Star Wars. And, speaking of the Queen, her majesty Elizabeth II has just celebrated her 90th birthday. Getting there starts here at home. Via Toronto, Air Canada has four daily flights to Heathrow (twice daily from Vancouver, as well); Air Canada Rouge flies to both Edinburgh and Dublin. The airline has also launched a Vancouver to Dublin route. www.aircanada.com WestJet has just launched its service into London’s Gatwick from Toronto and flies non-stop to Glasgow, Scotland via Halifax. www.westjet.com
Starting Point
LONDON Royal watchers will prefer the areas of Knightsbridge/Kensington and Belgravia. Bohemians revel in Mayfair and Marylebone, while rock ’n’ rollers might want to spend a night or two in Shepherd’s Bush, or in Chelsea channeling their best Keith Richards. Hipsters are flocking to north London, to the pubs and restaurants of Islington and Angel; entertainment seekers still make the West End shows of Soho and Covent Garden’s theatre district. What’s your passion? In London, you can satiate your craving for just about anything. Art and History? Most galleries and many museums are free.
Stay
THE ZETTER TOWNHOUSE If the Marylebone location or the authentic Georgian architecture isn’t enough, then living vicariously through the home’s fictional former resident, the wicked Uncle Seymour, should be. The Zetter Group founders have filled the townhouse with paraphernalia so eclectic, one can only order a meticulously crafted cocktail and sip it all in. Don’t forget to give Uncle Seymour a nod: his likeness hangs over the fireplace in the parlour named for him; after a nightcap slip into one of the 24 bedrooms, but don’t count on Seymour’s ghost making an appearance. www.thezettertownhouse.com
Here, the most noteworthy and long standing favourites
HOTEL 41 If you prefer rubbing shoulders with Buckingham Palace types, being within walking distance of St. James Park and Westminster, yet maintain your incognito self, this is the spot. This private hideaway, part of the four- and five-star Red Carnation Hotel collection, invites one to sleep in (hot water bottle between the sheets at turn down is a warming touch), laze about and just be at home. Between the genuinely happy staffers to the exclusive executive lounge – stocked with all sorts of complimentary sweet and savoury treats, and a host who knows how to pour a proper gin and tonic – we didn’t want to leave. www.41hotel.com
THE LANESBOROUGH A poster child for the “everything that’s old is new again” adage, this Knightsbridge monument to the Regency period was recently stripped to the bones and then reupholstered to a grandeur that may just be its original heyday’s match. The 93 rooms are filled with crystal, antiques, 18th-Century art and a touch of mahogany to richly round things out. Opulent? Yes. Old-school, why not? A butler at your service? Naturally. Lanesborough.com
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
69
Eat
BELLANGER From the team that brought London The Wolseley (tip: book breakfast at the Wolseley, which is partly owned by Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter, then walk it off along Piccadilly), this new brasserie is adding a bit of upper crust to the slightly edgy Islington ’hood. It’s a taste of the French region of Alsace, and the tarte flambées are thin, crispy crunches of savoury goodness. www.bellanger.co.uk
BROWN’S HOTEL This Rocco Forte outpost may be a mainstay in Mayfair, but its fare served up in its dining spaces is ever evolving. Currently, Forte has enlisted the taste and nutritional guidance of Brit chef Madeleine Shaw to develop Rocco Forte Nourish. Shaw’s innovative healthier choices can be had from breakfast in HIX Mayfair to The English Tea Room (have afternoon tea here, and pair it with a glass of bubbles) as well as at the Donovan Bar. www.roccofortehotels.com/hotels-and-resorts/browns-hotel
Drink ARTESIAN AT THE LANGHAM, LONDON There’s something about having a cocktail in what’s been voted the “world’s best bar.” There’s something even more interesting about having said cocktail arrive at table in a glowing box, the thorax of an oversized copper insect or in the belly of a lego-like mammoth. Part theatre, part glamour and all mixology, Artesian is civilized entertainment with a rather artful twist. www.artesian-bar.co.uk
71
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
DUKES BAR Being in the St. James neighbourhood puts this spot under “hot,” particularly when it comes to royal watching. Prince Harry and his dad, the Prince of Wales, both have their offices just down the way at St. James Palace, and it’s not unheard of that Harry stops in
for an after-work drink. Nostalgia lives, as 007 creator Ian Fleming was a regular – it’s said that it was here that the term “shaken, not stirred” had its start, as did James Bond’s favourite martini, the Vesper. www.dukeshotel.com/dukes-bar/
See+Do TAKE IN THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD …with a glass of Champagne in hand, of course. London may not be known for its skyscrapers, but the Shard, the tallest building in Western Europe, also features London’s highest champagne bar. The views really are spectacular, from the Tower Bridge and the Tower of London (where Ann Boleyn lost her head) to St. Paul’s (where Charles and Di tied the knot) and beyond. And, there’s nothing like gourmet popcorn with your bubbles. www.theviewfromtheshard.com EXHIBITIONISM: THE ROLLINGSTONES Whether you’re a stones fan or not, you won’t be able to deny the pop appeal of the Stones, their key influence on the rock genre and, heck, the boys in the band helped to curate the show. Plus, it’s housed in Chelsea’s Saatchi Gallery. We like it, like it, yes we do. Until Sept. 4; www.saatchigallery.com
CELEBRATE SHAKESPEARE Commemorate the 400th anniversary of the Bard’s death with a visit to the historic Globe Theatre and take in the permanent exhibition and tour. Events, performances, even a bite to eat at the Swan just across the street, will put you in the mood for life in the playwright’s England, circa 1616. All the world really was his stage. www.shakespearesglobe.com
SCOTLAND
Drink Where to sip a wee dram – or three 1. GLENMORANGIE, Loch Ness: This distillery, owned by luxury brands house LVMH, sits on the banks of the Moray Firth, not far from the famed lake where Nessie the monster has been spotted on and off since anyone can remember. But, memory is served better when a tasting of Glenmorangie’s finest is poured. Book a master class with the head of distilling and let your palette develop its own muscle memory. www.glenmorangie.com/en/experiences
2. THE MALMAISON, GLASGOW: Built in a former Greek Orthodox Church, the hotel’s design works with the eclectic shapes of the interiors – perhaps a bit of divine intervention? Rooms are cozy, while the two-story high wall of beer barrels in the Chez Mal Bar hints at craft suds on tap aplenty. Yes, you can get good Scottish whisky here, too, but sometimes you just want a cold and frosty brew. www.malmaison. com/locations/glasgow/
3. FOLLOW THE WHISKY TRAIL ON THE ISLE OF ISLAY. This tiny island, the southernmost of the Inner Hebrides, just off the southwest coast of Scotland, is home to eight distilleries with such powerhouse names in the business as Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Laphroaig. If you like peaty, smokey single malts, it’s worth the short plane ride for the day. www.islayinfo.com/islay_ whisky_distilleries.html
IRELAND
Stay Ashford Castle, County Mayo Once the home of nobility as well as the Guinness beer clan, this 13th Century manse still stands tall on the edge of Lough Corrib, aided by the fact that the property was lovingly restored by the Red Carnation hotel group. The family run operation is also behind such award-winning properties as Hotel 41 (see above) and the Milestone, both in London, as well as Cape Town’s 12 Apostles and The Chesterfield in Palm Beach, Fla. And who wouldn’t want to have a fling in a real-life castle? There’s something extremely sexy about a luxe getaway that offers earthy pursuits, such as horses, hawks and hikes in manicured gardens and ancient woods, which gives the impression you have the place all to your self. Inside the castle, do as the nobles would do: soak up the Hammam-inspired spa, sit for afternoon tea or simply sip Irish Whisky and socialize. Slainte!
Editors’ note: Insight Vacations’ offers exclusive local experiences, and one of the only tour companies that features a two-night stay at Ashford on its Irish itineraries. www.ashfordcastle.com. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
74
Beyond #WISHTOBEHERE
For so much of Antigua’s allure is that island’s relationship with the surrounding Caribbean. More than seventy thousand people make landfall here come April for the Classic Yacht Regatta – a parade of tall ships – and Antigua Sailing Week – the Caribbean’s biggest sailing event. Come during Sailing Week and you can book a berth on a race boat (lessons included) or charter your own boat – with or without skipper – to explore a ransom of postcard-perfect anchorages. Truly the land of sea, Antigua, but that hardly tells the entire tale. Antigua’s ensemble of charms is not a tropical trio but a harmonious quartet. History is as important a character in our island extravaganza as is the sea. Sometimes, they share the stage in bravura performances.
TRANQUIL
ESCAPE
THRILLING ACTIVITIES
With 365 beaches, yachting, and exclusive accommodations the islands of Antigua and Barbuda have something for everyone to "Fall in Love."
HISTORIC SITES
www.visitantiguabarbuda.com | www.antiguabarbudabuzz.com
TIPTOE THROUGH THE TULIPS IN AMSTERDAM,
ON POINTS.
ANY AIRLINE, ANY FLIGHT, ANY TIME. AVIONERS CAN DO THAT. ®
Subject to availability. Some restrictions may apply. For complete terms, visit rbc.com/travelredemption. ®/™ Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC and Royal Bank are registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. ‡ All other trademarks are the property of their respective owner(s).