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India - Beyond Sightseeing For over 43 years, Exodus Travels has been creating life changing tours to India for people who want to experience a world beyond sightseeing. Whether you have a yearning to take a trip back in time to Rajasthan’s fairytale palaces, receive a blessing upon the Holy Ganges River, climb to the roof of the world in the Himalayas, trek for golden tigers, go on a spiritual pilgrimage, or simply meet incredible people that inspire you with wonder, Exodus has an adventure in India for you. From new takes on classic destinations to off-the-beaten path secrets, let Exodus Travels introduce you to the real India.
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CONTENTS
Sunny Escapes Issue #36 DECEMBER 2016 / JANUARY 2017
The view from the pool of the stunning waters of the Caribbean Sea creating a wonderful setting for Anguilla’s Malliouhana Luxury Resort.
Features 41 COOL CARTAGENA Cartagena has created a thriving food scene inspired by the city’s rich history and Colombia’s newfound optimism By Paul Gallant
50 LOVE IN THE TIME OF CLARA Cartagena’s Hotel Santa Clara reveals its stories through the eyes of literature, religion and its former incarnations By Paul Gallant
56 CRUISING FROM A TO Z A new cruiser’s guide to lure you from shore to ship By Liz Fleming
60 IN THE PURSUIT OF HAPPINESS In the land of smiles, Anita Draycott discovers a resort that stimulates her imagination to run wild
64 THE DANUBE, LESS TRAVELLED Yes, we said less travelled. On the lower portion of the storied river, we revel in the wonders of sailing from Budapest to Bucharest By Ruth J. Katz
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BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 7
CONTENTS Sunny Escapes Issue #36 DECEMBER 2016 / JANUARY 2017
10 12
Editorial Note Contributors
Your
World
ON OUR RADAR + TRENDS
15 18 20 22
Thoughtful lobby designs, the heart and soul of a hotel Well(ness) Travelled Our Globetrotter Gavin Miller takes flight Eat, Playa, Love: El Salvador’s best beaches
Here&Now DISCOVERIES + DESIGN
25
The Power of Urban Art
29
From our travel expert Michael Smith, a few apps worth exploring when booking your next hotel
Upgrades 32
101 Reasons to Fall in Love with India
Guide The
66
Our favourite Sunny Escapes
ON THE COVER The work of Colombian artist Olga de Amaral lights up the lobby of Sofitel Legend Santa Clara.
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A seductive mix of Latin vibe and sultry Caribbean heat, Colombia surpassed our every expectation! From pirate gold, dazzling emeralds and colonial drama to mind-blowing art, fairy-tale haciendas, unparalleled cuisine, cycling sundrenched beaches and mind-blowing natural diversity, our tour was the perfect fusion of excitement, surprises, variety and culture. Exodus, thank you and thank you Colombia! Stephen & Deborah Craig Colombia • April 2016
Because 97% of our customers would recommend us to a friend
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Publisher’s Note
“Curiouser & Curiouser” At their best, our travels take us away from the everyday, the expected, and the safe, with encounters that surprise us and stick in our minds long after they’re over. We often mistakenly feel that each new adventure will sate our curiosity. But instead, the opposite is true. They simply spark new wonder about what else lies in the world beyond our doorstep, cultures different than our own, and landscapes that only seem to exist in photographs. Travel opens our eyes and gives us greater insight into the world, making us wiser and more empathetic. At Bold, we are perpetually curious about the places that capture our collective imaginations. On page 41, Cool Cartagena - Paul Gallant experiences the beautifully distinct and fascinating Cartagena, Colombia. On page 64,The Danube Less Travelled - Ruth J. Katz sails from Budapest to Bucharest along the often forgotten lower Danube. And on page 60, In the Pursuit of Happiness - Anita Draycott lives otherworldly experiences in her Thai resort and by exploring beyond - learns how the locals courageously rebuilt the area after the devastating Boxing Day tsunami in 2004. We hope their stories encourage you to push yourself outside your comfort zone on your next trip! Stay curious. LET IT FLOAT! The experience I am so looking forward this winter in the Caribbean.
Marlon J. Moreno Publisher
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CONTRIBUTORS
For this issue, we asked our contributors about their favourite Winter Escape
Paul Gallant
41
Writer
COOL CARTAGENA Favourite winter escape Oaxaca, Mexico Impressions of Cartagena Cartagena is a place where you can just as easily enjoy some of the most innovative cuisine on the continent as you can find the most amazing street food Only in Cartagena Experiencing a place that so informed the literary vision of Gabriel García Márquez. Every little street and square feels like it could be the setting for one of his novels What you’d fly back for The ceviche.
Tishan Baldeo
Photographer
COOL CARTAGENA Favourite sunny hideaway during the winter? Medellin, Colombia Cartagena in three words History, Art, Culture How do you Capture the city’s essence Through the eyes of a local A must for travellers to Cartagena The many free art galleries around the old town.
41
Liz Fleming
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THE A TO Z GUIDE TO CRUISING Favourite hidden Caribbean Spot The gorgeous white sand cove beside the Crane Beach Hotel in Barbados Cruising in three words Best. Travel. Ever. River vs Ocean Cruising Both please… and often! Memorable port Barcelona, where we stood for hours, staring up at Gaudi’s incredible La Sagrada Familia Unexpected cruise experience Swimming with a group of playful sea lions on a Silversea Galapagos Islands cruise.
Ruth J Katz
64
Writer
Writer
THE DANUBE, LESS TRAVELLED I escape the NY winter and head to the the low-key and indulgent Aman resort in Turks & Caicos Cruising for beginners Do a short cruise, as it is the best way to experience a destination “appetizer.” A must do excursion Petra from the port of Aqaba. It is about 1.5 hours away by bus; once there, it is worth the near-mile trek down into the ancient settlement Best cruise meal The most flavourful and toothsome meals on a daily basis were on Aqua Expeditions’ Aria on the Peruvian Amazon.
Diane Slawych
66 Entrance to the second level of Castillo de San Cristobal Photo by Arnob Alam
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Writer
DECODING THE CARIBBEAN The Caribbean in 3 words Blue: 50 shades Favourite Caribbean destination Turks and Caicos Caribbean packing essential Swimsuit of course, but soon it will be a birkini (better sun coverage and negates the need for sunscreen lotion which damages coral reefs) Top food experience Spiny lobster with macaroni pie, plantains and a Tiger Malt Don’t leave the Caribbean without? Memorable photos and one last swim.
MARLON MORENO Publisher + Editorial Director MAGDA DE LA TORRE America’s Editor CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Liam Wilkinson • David Locke • Muriel Paras • Michael Smith • Meagan Drillinger • Andrew Brudz • Gustavo Reid ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN Laura García PHOTOGRAPHY Carlos Bolivar • Tishan Baldeo WEB DEVELOPER Rahul Nair PUBLIC RELATIONS AGENCY Jesson + Company / jessonco.com / info@jessonco.com 77 Bloor St. West, Suite 1200 Toronto, ON. M5S 1M2 ADVERTISING For Advertising, Promotion, Reprints and Sponsorships inquiries: marketing@boldmagazine.ca / PHONE: 1.416.323.7828 extension 25 CORRESPONDENCE The Hudson Bay Centre / 20 Bloor St. East P.O. Box 75075 / Toronto, ON. M4W 3T3 BOLD® is published bimonthly by Pulso Media Group Inc. Opinions express in BOLD are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers. BOLD does not assume liability for content. www.boldmagazine.ca
A World of Possibilities
PROMOTION
Take Me There
For Those Who Prefer to Explore Cartagena is a great place for travellers. There are the tropical beaches that line the Caribbean Sea. Or you can visit centuries old historical castles built to defend against pirates. But Cartagena is much more than beaches and architecture. It’s also home to thriving pastel coloured neighbourhoods filled with exquisite contemporary galleries.You can visit lively salsa clubs, stroll through the eclectic and graffiti lined streets of Getsemani, or even swim in the rejuvenating mud volcano of El Totumo. This is the Cartagena experience that true travellers crave. You see, there are two ways to explore a new destination. First you have tourists; those who are happy to stick to the travel guide itinerary and to take photos of famous and familiar landmarks. But then you have travellers. These are the people who like to wander off the beaten path. They might go down an alleyway just to see where they end up. Travellers eat at the local independent café. They find a city’s third-most popular art gallery and buy a unique piece to display in their home. And sometimes they sit peacefully on a park bench just to watch the locals go about their day.
According to Andrea Metrick, Senior Director of Retail Cards at RBC, “We have another word for these travellers. We call them Avioners®.” “In the same way that these travellers aren’t limited by the tourist guide, Avioners don’t accept limitations on their travel plans and they would never carry a travel rewards card that would place such limitations,” she says. In fact, with an RBC Avion® credit card you just don’t have to face those kinds of restrictions. You can book any flight, with any airline, at any time. And with Payback with Points you can redeem your RBC Rewards® points toward anything and everything you purchase with your Avion card. Simply use your points to make a payment directly toward your credit card balance. But more importantly, you can redeem points on everything you purchase for your trip. So not only can you do things like book flights, hotel rooms, and car rentals; you can also take a horse drawn carriage ride through the cobblestone streets of the old city or taste authentic Colombian arepas – all ON POINTS! Avioners can explore and experience any new destination. So, ask yourself: are you a tourist or are you an Avioner?
All rewards are subject to availability and are subject to change without notice. Some restrictions may apply. For complete terms, visit rbcrewards.com/terms. ®/™ Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC and Royal Bank are registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. ‡ All other trademarks are the property of their respective owner(s).
Explore the world, ON POINTS Easy to understand travel rewards. No seat restrictions. If there’s a seat available, you fly – even during peak seasons. Plus you can also use your points to cover airline fees and taxes.
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Use your points toward all your purchases. With Payback with Points, you can redeem your RBC Rewards points toward anything and everything you purchase using your Avion® credit card. Simply use your points to make a payment directly toward your credit card balance.
AVIONERS CAN DO THAT ®
To learn more visit rbc.com/avion
ON OUR RADAR + TRENDS
Lobbies have long been the heart and soul of a hotel. It is where a guest’s first entry is made and ultimately sets the tone for the entire hotel experience. Its evolving landscape reflects society’s changing needs from hi-tech integrations to dual-purpose luxury spaces. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 15
Your
World DESIGN
As Hotels.com™ celebrates its 25th birthday this year, it reveals spectacular hotel lobbies around the world that showcase some of the best lobby features that never existed a quarter of a century ago By travel expert Taylor L. Cole, APR with Hotels.com
Check-in (and out) is a hi-tech affair at the U&Me Hotel. The hotel doesn’t have a traditional lobby space (because everything here is done online, even ordering hotel services), but the check-in pod sits at the heart of Umeå’s cultural arena, Väven. You could therefore argue that the hotel has the world’s largest hotel library (Umeå City Library), a theatre, an art-house cinema, a museum, a conference centre and a deli – all accessible from the ‘lobby’ zone. umehotel.se/en
The second you step into the luxurious open-air lobby of the Lux Belle Mare in Mauritius, you know you’re in paradise. The serene setting has a stunning water feature, relaxed seating area and an unexpected but delightful waft of coffee in the air as you step inside. This is because the lobby is also home to Café Lux, an impressive coffee bar where every day you can enjoy coffee tastings from trained Baristas and even watch the coffee beans being roasted, before they’re shipped off to other hotels on the island. luxresorts.com
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Your
World
WELLNESS
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IN THE BAG Simplify your airport experience with a well-sized, cleverly designed travel bag. 1. Getting enough sleep when you’re travelling keeps your immune system strong, which means an Armand Diradourian’s cashmere & silk sleep mask is a must. $125; mrporter.com/en-ca 2. There’s nothing like sleeping through a flight and waking up ready for adventure in your destination. Pharmaton® Sleep Harmony™ is made with a patented lavender oil that relieves symptoms of stress and exhaustion, and lets you sleep better— naturally. Available at your local drug store. Retails for app. $16
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3. Keep your hands germ-free with lavender anti-bacterial wipes. $16; herbanessentials.com 4. Arrive in your destination fully moisturized with Smith Farms’ Marshmallow Face Cream. Made with natural ingredients like marshmallow root, jojoba oil and vitamin E, it applies smoothly and absorbs quickly, leaving skin hydrated and protected without making it greasy. $32.99; smithfarmsproducts.com 5. Crafted by Village Juicery nutritionist Marieke, Tusk & Fin Beard Oil is a blend
of organic sweet almond, argan, vitamin E and essential oils that soothes and protects sensitive skin. Small enough to pop in your carry-on, it’s also an effective moisturizer for the un-bearded. $26; tuskandfin.com
The bold, bright florals of this David Jones reversible solid, floral/faux leather tote, with a decorative dangle and trimmed with silver
6. For post-travel recovery, the Village Juicery Recovery Pack reduces inflammation, boosts immunity, and nourishes dry skin. It includes Hydrate & Heal juice with Vitamin C, Potassium and Magnesium; Be Clean juice with nutrient-dense power vegetables; a wholesome Earth + City Organic Cowgirl Cookie; an E3 Live Shot; and a Turmeric Shot or Immunity Shot to reset jetlag. $30; villagejuicery.com
tone hardware, are sure to liven up the dreariest of overhead bins. It’s a fun, budget-friendly option for the traveller who’s not afraid to make a statement. $60; holiday.ca
Your
World
MY TOWN
1
1 To get away from it all, I go to: My second home, Australia. 2 My favorite place to stay is: The QT Boutique Hotel in Sydney. It’s in the heart of the city and pulses with cool Australian design, only steps from the harbour and the
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Opera House. 3 Confession time! One thing I’ve taken from a hotel room is: Design and travel magazines. If there is one lying around, it generally finds its way into my carry-on. 4 My ideal travel companion is: My partner, Andrew. He and I both love to run, bike and eat our way through new destinations. 5 My guilty pleasure when travelling is: Without question, the wine! No trip to Australia is complete without a trip to at least one wine region. The cellar door experience in McLaren Vale in South Australia is my favourite. The 3 7
people are casual and friendly, the wine is to die for and the environment is breathtakingly beautiful. And all of this is within a 30 minute drive from Adelaide! 6 When it comes to packing: I have yet to get it right. I travel a lot and still over pack, forget things, and do not have a system that works. But it’s Australia, so you’ve got to be ready for the beach with sunnies, singlets and bathers are essential! 7 My favourite restaurant is: Chin Chin. Its “Feed Me” option allows the chef to take you on a glorious journey through the flavours of Vietnam. 8 I lost my heart in: Uluru, (aka Ayers Rock). The outback is just simply spectacular. The stars, the space, the colours and the landscape. It’s incredible spiritual and moving.
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Thailand Because there is only one trip of a lifetime. With it s breathtaking vistas, unforgettable jungle treks,splendid beaches, spectacular retreats, glimmering temples and world class cuisine, it is no wonder that the people of Thailand welcome their visitors with a serene sense of pride that is at once heartwarming and uplifting.
Distinctly Thailand, in every sense.
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 21
SPECIAL FEATURE
El Salvador is home to some of Central America’s most stunning and secluded beaches. Here are three of our favourite areas to check out, before they catch on!
W
ith 320 kilometres of Pacific Ocean coastline, El Salvador boasts some breathtaking golden and volcanic sand beaches, ideal for swimming, surfing, diving, and
snorkelling. A temperate climate, gentle waves, and unforgettable sunsets throughout the year mean it’s always a good time to visit. And with the small Central American nation still off most travellers’ radars, now is the time to take advantage of the secluded beaches and welcoming locals that populate its coast from one end to the other.
PLAYA EL TUNCO About thirty minutes from the airport and the country’s capital city of San Salvador, Playa El Tunco makes a logical first stop. Certainly the country’s most popular and populated beach, it’s caught on with surfers, with challenging breaks and beautiful vistas. If surfing isn’t your activity of choice, instead take the short trek to the serene waterfall in nearby Tamanique. Or, just west of El Tunco, Playa El Sunzal’s pearl grey sands offer a more tranquil setting. And its proximity to the Parque Acuatico El Sunzal makes it an ideal destination for families. At the end of the day, El Tunco’s unique rocky formation in the water, known as “The Pig,” creates a one-of-a-kind sunset. Grab a pupusa (the favourite local street food) at one of the vendors and watch the day turn to night. Once the sun sets, the town’s rousing nightlife attracts Salvadorians from across the country. Tiny beachside bars and restaurants keep locals and travellers alike fully fuelled for a night of dancing and revelling.
SPECIAL FEATURE
COSTA DEL SOL The famous Costa del Sol is 65 kilometres south east of El Tunco, in the department of La Paz. Unlike the all-welcomed vibe of El Tunco, the more exclusive Costa del Sol is known more for its luxury hotels, sailing, and its secluded grey-sand beaches, San Marcelino, Los Blancos and Costa del Sol. Visitors to the area enjoy horseback riding along the beaches, heading out on fishing expeditions, and water sports, like jet-skiing and paddle boarding. And the biggest water park in El Salvador, Atlantis, is close by. During key holidays in the country, locals descend upon Costa De Sol to celebrate, packing the hotels, beaches, and streets. Lively, colourful festivals bring the area to life with music and food, especially during Semana Santa and celebrations in honour of El Salvador del Mundo every August. The area also offers some of El Salvador’s most distinct, unforgettable experiences. Take a boat ride through the Jaltepeque Estuary, one of the country’s 125 protected areas. Get an up-close-and-personal tour of the mangrove forest, where Rio Lempa, the longest river in the country, meets the ocean, offering a unique cross section of vegetation and wildlife. The island of Tasajera is a quaint, tiny community with less than 2000 inhabitants, where you will often have an entire beach to yourself. It also offers up some of El Salvador’s best seafood cocktails. Visit at the right time of the year (between July and September), and you will have to chance to witness the sea turtle nesting period.
PLAYA EL ESTERON In stark contrast to the bustling and rowdy El Tunco and exclusive Costa del Sol, Playa El Esteron remains one of the country’s best-kept secrets, with its calmer waters mostly keeping the surfers away. But it makes for a charming, serene beach escape. Offering a more relaxing experience than other areas, there isn’t much to do besides explore the waters for sea turtles, sip tropical cocktails, and work on your tan. (We’re more than okay with all of this!) It’s comprised of three unique beaches: Intipuca Beach, Playa Las Flores, and El Cuco. At Intipuca, the river meets the Pacific Ocean creating ideal circumstances for stand-up paddle boarding. You can rent boards along the beach for reasonable prices. Intipuca is also home to El Salvador’s first microbrewery. Grab a handcrafted beer and head to the beach. Playa Las Flores offers the area’s best option for surfing, with some amazing breaks. And El Cuco is a chilled-out, black -sand beach lined with palm trees and local vendors.
With 320 kilometres of warm beaches, El Salvador’s even warmer people are eager to share their homeland with visitors. Each stop along the coastline possesses unique charms, transfixing landscapes, and new experiences, offering plenty to eat and even more to love.
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DISCOVERIES + DESIGN
THE POWER OF URBAN ART By VAWN HIMMELSBACH
Here&Now DISCOVERIES
Christopher Bratty, President of Land Development and Investments with The Remington Group, speaking at the opening of the Pride of Canada Carousel.
is transforming cities around the world – bringing locals and tourists alike back into urban centres, which for reasons of economy or strife, were once no-fly zones. And it’s happening right here in Canada, albeit for a different reason: creating community amongst urban sprawl. Markham is a major urban centre just outside of Toronto, but it’s never had a true downtown. Instead, locals and visitors would drive to Toronto to get their dose of culture, nightlife and entertainment. But a project that’s bringing urban art into a newly created downtown in Markham is aiming to change that. “Art is important to our everyday lives whether we realize it or not,” says Christopher Bratty, president of land development and investments with The Remington Group, the real estate and development firm behind Markham’s new multibillion-dollar downtown. “How do cities evolve and why do you want to live in a city and not a suburb? It is the art, the entertainment, the exchange of ideas, the socialization,” he adds. “Humans are inherently social by nature.” That was the impetus behind an ambitious $25 million public art initiative that challenges the idea of what a gallery can be, featuring work by a diverse group of international artists. The Remington Contemporary Art Gallery isn’t an art gallery in the traditional sense; instead, art can be found in both expected and unexpected places. It’s public, and it’s free. The Remington Group describes the project as a “nod to Alice in Wonderland’s trip down the rabbit hole and playing on ideas of new surrealism.” Art features prominently throughout all 243 acres of Downtown Markham, which is 10 years into its 30-year development. Glowing flowers, crystals and mushroom sculptures by Gregory Skolozdra hover above the entrance to the Cineplex movie theatre. On a street corner, a modern-day steel and aluminum Dodeca Caryatid totem pole by the sculptor Kevin Kelly supports the second floor workout spaces of GoodLife Fitness. There’s Blasted Guernica, artist Viktor Mitic’s homage to Pablo Picasso’s masterpiece; the classically trained Serbian artist combines art with destruction by blasting strategic bullet holes into canvas. And animals sculpted out of stainless steel by the Quebec artist Michel Beaudry pop up around the space. Even an underground parking lot has turned into an urban museum of sorts, with photographic renderings of prominent street art plastered on pillars and walls, such as U.K. street artist Nick Walker’s Polychromatic Beams – adding a splash of colour to a world of cement. These murals document 40 years of street art taken from the collection of ex-CIA agent Hank O’Neal, who retired in 1976 to become a photographer. “If you’re going to … create a downtown, you need to think urban,” says Bratty. “As opposed to us creating museums, we thought let’s take the idea of a museum, let’s strip the walls away and put it into the public realm.” The signature piece in the collection is a Canadian-themed carousel, the Pride of Canada, featuring sculptures by Montreal-born artist Patrick Amiot and his wife, painter Brigitte Laurent. Cities around the world have a history of carousels. There’s the vintage Central Park Carousel in Manhattan, which has been around (in various forms) since 1871 and draws 250,000 people a year. There are several carousels in Paris, including 26 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
one at the foot of the Eiffel Tower with traditional white horses. Then there are ‘modern’ carousels, such as Le Manège d’Andréa, created in 1999 from salvaged motorcycles, which has travelled around Europe. The idea behind public art – including a signature carousel – is to help Downtown Markham grow organically, otherwise “it’s a contrived Disneyland,” says Bratty. “You need to put elements in place that allow it to evolve.” The Remington Group wanted something “21st century with a nod to history,” respecting the traditions of the great cities of the world. The Pride of Canada, which opened to the public on Canada Day, is meant to serve as both a cultural anchor and meeting place. And each piece, made of recycled and repurposed objects, tells a uniquely Canadian story – kind of like a fun history lesson. Amiot spent two years searching for discarded objects from Victoria to Newfoundland – old auto parts and oil drums to used baseball gloves and provincial license plates. He then used his creative vision to turn them into whimsical objects and creatures, from a mermaid wearing a maple leaf bra to a barrel rolling over Niagara Falls and a Mountie centaur (and yes, you can actually ride them). There’s an old chainsaw blade for a beaver tail, butter knives for wiper blades, nuts and bolts for fingers. The 44-seat carousel is housed in an open-glass pavilion designed by Quadrangle Architects, and is open year-round allowing visitors to celebrate Canada’s changing seasons – all to the soundtrack of Canadian artists. And it’s outfitted with a hybrid solar-power motor, a nod to the concept of sustainability behind the piece. “The carousel is the crowning glory at this point but [the project] continues to evolve and there are other pieces we have planned,” says Bratty. They’re rolling out a mobile app, so people can customize their own art walk. They’re already bringing in street artists for a rotating mural on Enterprise Boulevard (currently the work of Queen’s-based Kid Lew), and they hope to roll out an artist-in-residence program. Whether you like a piece or not, art speaks to people. “When you see the work, it does in some way get conveyed to you,” says Bratty. “That’s how art becomes part of your everyday life, that’s how art improves the quality of your life – seeing things in perhaps a little bit of a different light.”
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: A mermaid wearing a maple leaf bra as part of the The Pride of Canada Carousel; Underground Art by ex-CIA agent and now artist Hank O’Neal; Pride of Canada Carousel created by notable urban folk artist, Patrick Amiot, and his wife Brigitte Laurent; Steel Moose by artist Michel Beaudry
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 27
Here&Now
Jingle all the way home in 25 min. THE TAKEAWAY
The fastest way from Pearson Airport to downtown Toronto. Trains leave every 15 minutes. Every day.
Hop On The UP! Get started at UPexpress.com
Download the Free UP App. The fastest way to get on board.
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Hotel booking sites for the discerning traveller By MICHAEL SMITH
Presented By
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 29
W
hen it comes to booking a hotel, all the apps and websites can all start to blur together. For the most part, the listings, prices, filters and layout all tend to be the same across the big online booking sites and apps. Yet, it seems every month I hear of a new booking app. Most tend to go to the wayside, but here are a few that should get your attention when you’re looking to book your next hotel.
Luxury Link, as the name might
JetSetter offers the basics of a
suggest, focuses on the finer hotels
booking engine, but one of the best
in the area. Although many websites
parts of the website is the curated
focus on the luxury market, what is
lists they offer. In Toronto you can
convenient about the website is that
find the ‘Royal’ collection featuring
they give prices from the different
the Shangri-la and Four Seasons or
booking websites such as Hotwire,
the ‘Posh’ listings The Fairmont and
Hotels.com, Expedia, etc. so you can
Park Hyatt, for instance. Of all the
secure the cheapest price.
apps and websites, Jetsetter ranked
luxurylink.com
as the more inspiring. jetsetter.com
Google Maps is an app all of us
Every booking engine carries a
have heard, but are you aware it can
review system for the hotel, usually
help you book a hotel? When you’re
based on peer reviews. One website
in the app or website, just search
that takes a different approach is
‘hotels’ and it will bring up the hotels
Tablet, which sends secret reviewers
near you and their pricing. The best
to each of the luxury hotels they sell
part about it being a map is that you
to give an unbiased review. Looking at
can make sure you’re booking a hotel
how Toronto’s high-end hotels ranked,
in the area you want to stay and not
their reviews seem to be on point.
booking a bed next to the airport
Another feature is a membership
because the price was right.
service where the hotels give a little
maps.google.com
extra for members like free upgrades, late check-out, meal vouchers and welcome gifts. tablethotels.com
Sometimes what works at home isn’t
Agoda.com is often cited as the
Wotif.com made its name in last minute
the best overseas. A lot depends on the
best booking site for destinations
bookings for people wanting a last
website’s presence in a region to be able
in Thailand, Japan, Hong Kong,
minute get away. One of the more daring
to drum up deals and get hotels to sign
Phillipines, Indonesia, and Taiwain.
options is the Mystery Hotel, which will
on to the platform. Here are some other
get a reduced rate, but you will only
booking options for when you’re abroad:
know the star rating and amenities of the hotel you’re about to book.
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PARTNER CONTENT
Connecting a City to the World Toronto’s UP Express demonstrates how cities need to prepare for the future I
n the 2014 UN publication World Urbanization Prospect, it was reported that 54 percent of the world’s population lived in urban areas (compared to only 30 percent in 1950), and that by 2050 that number will grow to more than two-thirds of the planet calling a city home. In North America today, 82 percent of people already call an urban centre home. When you factor in the UN’s prediction that, by 2050, 2.5 billion people will be added to the world’s urban population, it doesn’t take an expert to see that cities need to invest now to prepare for the future. A city lives on its infrastructure. Hospitals and health care nourish its body. Education feeds its intellect. Road and rail are the arteries and veins that carry life—the connections that keep the city healthy and growing. And if they don’t keep pace, a city stalls. It never reaches its potential. It’s called “Urban Mobility”—and it’s a critical part of a liveable city. The Greater Toronto and Hamilton Area (GTHA) is one of the fastest growing regions in Canada. It’s estimated that by 2031 the GTHA will be home to nine million residents, and a combined 190 million travellers will pass through its two major hubs each year: Toronto Pearson International Airport and Union Station. That’s about half the current population of the entire country month in, month out, and almost double today’s traffic. This was the scale of the challenge put to Metrolinx, the transportation agency of the Province of Ontario: How to prepare the region for travel and trade. How to ensure infrastructure contributed to the pride and prosperity of the province, and didn’t instead stand in its way.
It’s not surprising that one of the first projects out of the gate in the organization’s sizeable infrastructure plan (known as ‘The Big Move’) was the Union Pearson Express— or UP for short. UP is a dedicated air-rail link that connects the country’s busiest airport directly to the heart of the city. Launched June 6, 2015, UP is a fast, reliable and comfortable connection that joins the region to the world. While UP Express is North America’s first dedicated air-rail link, similar services have long played a critical role in global cities like London, Tokyo, Oslo, Vienna and Stockholm. Growing cities need dependable connections, and UP offers a reliable 25-minute ride from the airport into the heart of downtown, with trains leaving every 15 minutes, 19 and a half hours a day. (Just as important, it removes more than a million car trips from busy city streets every year.) Over the course of its first year of service, ridership on UP has tripled. As awareness of the service continues to grow, UP Express has become the go-to option for more air travellers. Every region has to prepare for the future in ways that make the most sense. For the GTHA, it was about creating a fast, reliable connection upon which travellers can depend, and with which the city can grow. As urban centres continue to grow and be more dependant on international connections, projects like UP will become increasingly more critical.
NEXT ISSUE: What’s important to travellers?
2.5 BILLION
By 2050, 2.5 billion people will be added to the world’s urban population.
190 MILLION
By 2031, a combined 190 million travellers will pass through Toronto’s two major hubs each year.
for more details visit upexpress.com
Punctuality: expected. Precision: expected. Everything else: unexpected. More Indian than you think
Welcome aboard Lufthansa, an airline that is more Indian than you think! The unique spirit of India is clearly evident in all Lufthansa flights. After over half a century of service to India, it is woven into our tradition of efficiency, reliability, innovation and technological excellence. You will find a touch of India at every step of the journey – be it in our hospitality, inflight meals or entertainment. Our long partnership has helped us appreciate Indian culture, and customize our products to your preferences.
Lufthansa & India
The first Lufthansa aircraft touched down on Indian soil in 1934, when a JU52 landed in the beautiful city of Jodhpur. But it was in November 1959 that Lufthansa first launched commercial services in India with a Lockheed Super Constellation flight to Kolkata. Since then, Lufthansa’s partnership with India has grown stronger every year. Over the years, the number of Lufthansa flights to and from India has climbed to 46 every week from Frankfurt and Munich to 5 gateways - Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai and Pune. Together, Lufthansa Group airlines offer 66 weekly flights to 5 gateways in India from 4 global hubs, making it the No. 1 European airline group.
Onboard
From the moment the journey begins all the way to the destination, Lufthansa passengers flying to India step into a world that is tailored to their needs. There are a variety of Indian newspapers and magazines to read, Hindi film music to listen to on dedicated radio channels, popular Bollywood films to enjoy, Indian cuisine and even garam chai to savour. Together they all lend a touch of India in the skies.
Book your flight now at lufthansa.com
Inflight Entertainment: Bollywood for me
Golden melodies or the latest Bollywood hits, enjoy the music you prefer onboard Lufthansa on its dedicated Indian music channel Rhythm of India. Just put on your headphones and relax as you get ready for a flight experience that’s distinctly more Indian than you might think!
Did you know?
Indian music was introduced in Lufthansa flights to and from India about 30 years ago in 1987.When you fly Lufthansa, it’s time to sit back, relax and enjoy some desi entertainment in the skies.
Over 50 years of trust & commitment
Our commitment to India and our effort to progressively customize our services over the past half century have received consistent appreciation from our customers, our partners, as well as all travellers flying from/to India. Year after year, we have been honoured with awards, not only in the international travel industry, but also specifically in the Indian travel arena. But more than all these accolades, it is the words of our customers that motivate us every single day to continue putting in our best effort to provide you with a home away from home above the clouds!
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Keep your eyes peeled for some of India’s wonderfully fascinating wildlife.
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India isn’t all hustle and bustle. Chill out at seven of its most exquisite beaches! 56. Remote and secluded Gokarna. 57. Stunning, peaceful Varkala. 58. Radhanagar Beach along the Bay of Bengal. 59. Water sports and dolphin sighting at Baga. 60. Tarkarli has a village vibe and coral reefs. 61. Beautiful and lively Palolem Beach. 62. Live music at the hippie-mecca Arambol.
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Sure, India has an unparalleled collection of ancient treasures, but it also has an exciting modern art scene, found at contemporary galleries across the country. 72. VOLTE, MUMBAI The boldest and most important contemporary art exhibits since 2008. 73. DAG MODERN, DELHI A chronological timeline of modern Indian art from cultural hubs to remote villages.
74. GENESIS ART GALLERY, KOLKATA Solo shows of contemporary Indian artists, by both celebrated and emerging talents.
75. MAHUA ART GALLERY, BANGALORE Showing a diverse cross-section of themes, styles, and influences for 15 years.
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Inspired by the way our editors travel, BOLD magazine presents a series of premium itineraries for extraordinary places around the globe, available for purchase through EXODUS Travels - offering cultural, hiking, wildlife and cycling tours to 100 + countries worldwide.
• CALL 1-800-267-3347 • VISIT WWW.EXODUSTRAVELS.COM
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RBC AVION PRESENTS: CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA ®
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: La Comunión’s chef Charlie Otero; Carmen’s Restaurant chef Jonathan Galindo; Hotel San Augustin’s executive chef Heberto Eljach. Cartagena’s doormen change their outfits throughout the day; a traditional palenquera fruit sellers; A delicate prawn stew with smoked peppers, coconut milk and green plantain croutons from La Comunión Restaurant; Carmen’s seared octopus, roasted garlic polenta, pickled aromatics, pistachio mole, brown butter ponzu, chorizo salt; Caribbean shrimp skewers at San Augustin’s Alma restaurant.
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The work of Colombian artist Olga de Amaral lights up the lobby of Sofitel Legend Santa Clara.
Cartagena has created a thriving food scene inspired by the city’s rich history and Colombia’s newfound optimism.
By PAUL GALLANT
Photos By Tishan Baldeo
BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 47
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: La Comunión restaurant’s Alejandro Dorante; The city’s fortifications provide fantastic Caribbean views; Local artist and tour guide Jesus Duncan; the interior at La Comunión Restaurant; Taking in an exhibition at La Presentación, Casa Museo Arte y Cultura; The work of Ruby Rumié at NH galleria; Getsemaní’s street art celebrates local heroes; The cannons didn’t always successfully repel pirates; Cannons slots provide perfect perches at sunset.
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Cartagena’s clock tower was once the main gateway to the walled city.
TRIP PLANNER
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ON THIS PAGE: Carmen’s delicate crab bisque, infused with coconut milk, passion fruit, avocado, topped with a delicate helping of caviar, served on a crab shell; Dry ice escapes from the glowing blue curacao-filled glass that holds Alma’s Restaurant Barú style fish ceviche with avocado, tomato, corn and plantain chips; La Comunión’s tasty carimañolas fritters stuffed with snapper caviar.
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BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 51
I
TRIP PLANNER t’s not just Cartagena’s food scene that’s hell-bent
At Alma, the restaurant at the heart of the much lauded
on upending expectations. Twenty years ago, the
boutique hotel Casa San Agustín, chef Heberto Eljach
Old Town was disheveled and seedy; the action for
seems intent on causing me whiplash with his eye-catching
visitors was among the high-rise hotels and office
creations. Sure, like so many other restaurants in Cartagena,
buildings of Bocagrande, the modern peninsular
seafood takes centrestage. But oh, the presentation! Dry
barrio just south of the historic centre. A more
ice escapes from the glowing blue curaçao-filled glass that
serious attitude toward the 1984 UNESCO World Heritage Site
holds a portion of Eljach’s Barú-style ceviche, named after a
recognition, combined with the opening of the icon Sofitel
local island. He admits that ceviche is not native to Colombia
Legend Santa Clara in a formerly neglected neighbourhood,
– we can let Perú and Chile argue about that one – but
changed all that. Visitors changed too, increasingly choosing
Cartagena’s chefs seem determined to welcome it into the
authenticity and cultural exploration over seaside tanning
Colombian cooking canon. “Local cuisine is not only salty,
and all-night dancing (though those remain options for those
there are lot of fruits,” says Wil Sander, food and beverage
who can’t go for long without sun and drink). Now Old Town’s
director of Casa San Agustín, translating for Eljach. “You will
narrow streets, lush greenery spilling out from second-storey
find a mix of Spanish spices. Anything fried usually comes
planters, can barely contain the visionary entrepreneurs showcasing their ideas and talent. A barbershop that looks like it was beamed out of the early 20th century does booming business right across from a luxury fashion house. Bistros and boutiques overflow into the adjacent neighbourhood of Getsemaní, where a hardscrabble past of slavery and uprising against colonial power is reflected even today in its more rebellious counterculture attitude. “Eight years ago, you couldn’t walk around here with your cell phone out,” local artist Jesús Duncan tells me as we wander some of Getsemaní’s arresting graffiti-covered streetscapes. Duncan, a costeño native with a distant Scottish ancestor, has agreed to show me and my companions Cartagena’s cultural scene, which ranges from graffiti celebrating a local “grandma” to the thoughtfully curated NH contemporary gallery. Signs of renewal are everywhere. The plush early 20th century Teatro Adolfo Mejia (Teatro Heredia) had fallen into disrepair when a 1988 restoration project set the artist Enrique Grau loose on the place. Grau created a Magic Realist ceiling fresco and curtain, both mesmerizing to audiences even when
Poolside at Sofitel Legend Santa Clara.
there’s nothing happening on stage. Duncan also points to the Cartagena International Film Festival, held each March, which has buttressed the city’s reputation as a glamorous cultural
from slavery period, then there are indigenous aspects.”
capital – Susan Sarandon, Mick Jagger and badass director
Like much of what Cartagena has to offer, the fusion
Gaspar Noé were among last year’s glittery guests. Of course, the city hasn’t conjured its confidence out of thin
can sound overwhelming. But the execution is impeccable. Each nuance of Cartagena’s culture – from the after-dinner
air. Cartagena is just one chapter in Colombia’s modern tale of
carousing in La Plaza de los Coches to the enduring stamina
creative renewal. With a stable economy and increasing secu-
of its musical performers – has been developed and refined,
rity comes a new optimism. These days, the high-stakes havoc
reinvented and then reborn. That’s why the city’s allure has
of Pablo Escobar seems like some hallucinatory digression
lasted long after the end of the era of Spanish gold. And why
in a story by García Márquez (who, by the way, lived his last
those who are separated from her find their way back, even
years in a home a stone’s throw from Cartagena’s ramparts).
after many years and obstacles.
The country’s ongoing peace process, though at times fragile, seems very close to delivering a national dream.
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TRIP PLANNER
FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Getsemanà bares its creative soul in graffiti; Global brands co-mingle with local culture in Old Town; Artist Enrique Grau helped revive Teatro Adolfo Mejia. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 53
The colourful lobby of Sofitel Legend Santa Clara.
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Cartagena’s Hotel Santa Clara Reveals its stories through the eyes of literature, religion and its former incarnations By PAUL GALLANT
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In the middle of Hotel Santa Clara’s El Coro Lounge Bar, there’s an unusual glass barricade, protecting customers from taking a fall and also guarding what’s down below. The bar itself once was part of the chapel choir for a convent, built in 1621 as the home for the Nuns of the Order of St. Claire, and below it lies what was once the crypt where senior nuns were interred. As a young reporter, Gabriel García Márquez wrote about the emptying of the burial crypt here. When one of the bodies was found to have a head of long, flowing hair, the late literary giant was inspired to write the Of Love and Other Demons, arguably one of García Márquez’s most romantic works. Making the descent from the busy lounge to the sombre crypt that unlocked the author’s imagination is a truly magical experience.
Now a Sofitel Landmark property, the space has been preserved
and honoured with the care one expects from a brand dedicated to authenticity and attention to detail. Aracataca’s most famous son spent much of his adult life in Paris, New York, Barcelona and, finally, Mexico City, but García Márquez’s inarguable bond with Cartagena is celebrated throughout Hotel Santa Clara. His most memorable quotes line the hallway facing his Cartagena home, which is right across the street and still owned by his family. The “secret passage” reminds guests that others before them have come in search of seeing the world through García Márquez’s eyes.
OPPOSITE PAGE: The Doorman at the entrance of the Sofitel Legend Santa Clara; the lushful interior courtyard and El Coro Lounge Bar. ON THIS PAGE: View of the pink dome of Cartagena’s Cathedral; Carmen Otero de Millán, Sales and Marketing Director for Hotel Santa Clara Cartagena.
Likewise, the stories of the Santa Clara nuns are also captured in the historic property. Pieces found during restoration, both colonial and pre-colonial, are carefully displayed in the convent’s old courtyard as a reminder of what’s come before. The decorative colonial-style ceiling of the hotel’s entryway has barely changed since it was finished in 1788. History also touches the very operation of the hotel. The kitchen, for example, maintains the tradition of serving sweets, breads and cakes. “This reflects what the nuns made and sold right here, to support themselves,” Carmen Otero de Millán, sales and marketing director for Hotel Santa Clara Cartagena, tells me as we tour through the property. Not that the current proprietors are above making some history themselves. When the hotel opened 21 years ago – the building had been in the meantime, among other things, a hospital and a penitentiary – the project kickstarted a major rejuvenation of Cartagena’s walled Old Town, transforming the barrio into the chic destination it has become. The Republic wing of the hotel, though also a heritage property, is more modern and is home to the pool, spa and fitness facilities. As a hub for major events, including some impressive destination weddings (about one a week, usually hosted in the room that was once the convent chapel), the hotel offers even more to talk about. During 2016’s Ibero-American Summit, King Felipe VI of Spain held meetings in the Presidential Suite Fernando Botero, named after one of Colombia’s most famous painters and designed by his daughter, the celebrated interior designer Lina Botero. Who knows what was discussed when Mexican President Enrique Peña Nieto came to lunch with the king? Perhaps one day it will be part of the legend. Botero, whose spends much of her year in Mexico City and in Europe, was delighted to bring her vision to the Santa Clara.
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“To have had the opportunity to recreate that most important space in such an important hotel was such a privilege,” says Botero, who also works to support her father’s artistry, organizing exhibits and working with publishers. “And when they said the suite would be dedicated to my father—you can just imagine.” Botero included select pieces from the hotel’s colonial collection, as well as the work of contemporary Colombia creators (and photos of her father) to create a space that’s both intimate and elegant. Certainly Hotel Santa Clara’s executive chef, French import Dominique Oudin, has his eye on creating a lasting legacy. Coming from the same region of France as Michel Bras, the chef who invented the “Fondant au Chocolat,” Oudin is equally ambitious. A Sofitel veteran who has run kitchens in Dubai, Morocco and Mauritius before his move to Colombia last fall, he’s just the man to find synergies amongst far-flung global cuisines. “When I first arrived in Cartagena, I knew it was nice, but it is very, very nice. I’ve found people to be very motivated. They have a big commitment and want to do the best,” he tells me. “I love to walk in Old Town and see the houses painted in bright colours, smell the smells. You really know you’re in a Caribbean place.” Emphasizing a health-based menu that prioritizes
philosophical about his experimentation, referencing the Chinese artist Ai Weiwei as a key influence for his surprising creations. A sweet and
fruits and vegetables, Oudin brings considerable
creamy dessert that looks like an egg has nothing egg-like about it
inventiveness to his role. His “French twist” ceviche
except for its shape. An apple-shaped triumph is more loyal to what it
sees the fish marinated with carrots, other vegetables
looks like, filled with an apple compote and cream. “It’s a piece of art,
and tropical fruits like pineapple, rather than the
then you break it,” Heideguer Aragón says. For his sculptural choco-
conventional lime juice. “We can play a lot,” he says.
late masterpieces, he sources his chocolate from traditional farmers, some of who have abandoned coca to grow cacao.
Pastry chef Frank Heideguer Aragón, who also joined the team in the past year, is even more
For a property with so much history, the job of keeping everything shipshape for the expectations of modern guests is almost unending. This is a team focused on constant improvement behind-the-scenes. A six-year plan to reinvent some of the key suites – including the Botero suite and a brand-new sea-oriented suite with an enormous amount of outdoor space – is coming to an end, but the team is focusing on creating two new suites. One is dedicated to Enrique Grau, a Panamanian-born artist who called Cartagena home and whose magical realist paintings celebrate the city and region. The other will be a spa-inspired suite for guests who can’t get enough of the hotel’s stylish So Spa.
Sofitel Legend Santa Clara Cartagena has rooms from CAD $425. For weddings, the hotel offers planning services that can take care of everything from cuisine and accommodation to flowers and themes. The So Spa has eight treatment rooms and can accommodate groups of up to five people. PHONE: (+57)5/6504700 CONTACT: reservation.santaclara@sofitel.com
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TOP RIGHT: Pastry chef Frank Heideguer Arangón. BOTTOM LEFT: Hotel Santa Clara’s executive Chef, French import Dominique Oudin. OPPOSITE PAGE CLOCKWISE: The beautifully decorated Presidential Botero Suite; The courtyard of the hotel; Interior Colonial Junior Suite; View of the pool at night.
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In the land of smiles,
A N I TA D R AY C O T T discovers a resort that encourages her imagination to run wild
ON THIS PAGE: Outdoor dinner by the beach; Swimming pool Cabanas; OPPOSITE PAGE: Grilled skewered frog; View of the interior garden.
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Back in the 1970s, Phuket and its nearby islands were the go-to destinations for backpackers on a budget. Today, however, those of us looking for four-poster beds and private plunge pools in lieu of hammocks on the beach are spoiled by choice.
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e all have our own criteria – gourmet food, a pristine beach, indulgent spa treatments, attentive staff. How about a place with all of the above, plus the possibilities of bespoke experiences tailored to your wildest imagination? A place you can “write home about.” A place where you are definitely not Mr. and Ms. Anonymous in room 7001. Phuket is arguably the most famous of Thailand’s luxury beach destinations, but head about an hour north of the Phuket Internation-
al Airport to Khao Lak and you will discover the remarkable Sarojin resort. It was here that I encountered the hospitality of the (mythical) Lady Sarojin, daughter of a prominent Thai nobleman and reputed to be the consummate hostess. From the Phuket Airport my husband, Will, and I were picked up a driver from The Sarojin. Lemongrass-scented towels, mineral water, silk pillows, a music menu and another to pre-order dinner indicated the resort’s commitment to spoiling its guests. One could arrive here anytime and be captivated by the setting, but it’s especially magical after dark. After a welcome cocktail, we were escorted to our spacious suite, one of 56, which overlooked a lotus pond and giant ficus trees festooned with tiny white lights. Flickering torches and an orchestra of crickets and frogs added to the romantic atmosphere. The Sarojin is the brainchild of the British husband and wife team of Andrew and Kate Kemp, whose vision was to create an experience that is reminiscent of staying at a friend’s private estate. In fact, the property’s name was inspired by the mythical Lady Sarojin. In keeping with the fantasy theme, The Sarojin employs not a concierge, but a team of “Imagineers.” Their goal is to tailor-make your holidays – the only limit is your imagination. Combine the connections of a concierge, the showmanship of a magician and the hopeful heart of a romantic and you’ve got a pretty apt description of an Imagineer at the Sarojin. Whether you’re dreaming of an elephant ride through the jungle, a rainforest safari among monkeys and gibbons, scuba diving with whale sharks or a candlelit dinner beside a cascading waterfall, if you can dream it, it’s the mission of this team to try to make it happen. When I expressed an interest in Thai cooking my Imagineer gave me a quick wink and a “leave it to me.” The following morning we were driven to the Little Amazon River where we took a long-tail boat to a thriving market in Takua Pa. Sous chef Mon was waiting to take us on a tour, pointing out such delicacies as skewered frogs, live cricket snacks and hundred-year-old eggs. Another brief long-tail ride deposited us on a shady riverbank where the “special effects” team had created an alfresco cooking experience. Woks, burners, aprons and all the ingredients 62 BOLDMAGAZINE.CA
THE DETAILS Planning a trip to Thailand? Check out the Tourism Authority of Thailand na.tourismthailand.org The Sarojin, Khao Lak www.sarojin.com Tel: +66 (0)76 427 900-4 Reservation enquiries: reservations@sarojin.com General enquiries: info@sarojin.com Sales & Marketing enquiries: sales@sarojin.com
“ A place you can write home about.” for a rich duck curry and marinated prawns deep-fried in a “bird’s nest” of rice noodles awaited. I worked amicably alongside chef while Will chatted up a fellow fishing by the shore. Our table was set under a tree with a Thai silk runner and white orchids. A bottle of Chardonnay cooled in the wine bucket. After lunch we went for a long uninterrupted stroll along the 11-kilometre sugary beach – not a T-shirt vendor in sight! Later, I confess to a self-indulgent massage in the Pathways Spa performed under a thatched roof in total rhythmic harmony by two therapists. I called it ménage a trois at the spa; Pathways calls it the Faa Fairt Massage – definitely a “double your pleasure” experience with the waves of the CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Lady Sarojin’s daily boat excursion; The pristine beach; Spa treatment at the Pathway Spa; Poolside view of the private residence; The Spa pavilion at night.
Andaman Sea providing soothing background music. As much as The Sarojin staff goes out of its way to cater to your every whim, it also encourage guests to venture beyond the property to touch and feel the real Thailand. The Khao Lak area bore the full brunt of the devastating tsunami in December 2004 that killed thousands and destroyed many of the resorts, but it’s a credit to the industrious Thai that the resorts and beaches have never looked better. Though the force of the tsunami was cataclysmic, the underwater impact to the reefs and world-renowned diving sites was relatively mild, as we discovered aboard Lady Sarojin, the resort’s 38-foot yacht that took us for a day of snorkeling off the Similan Islands National Marine Park. For our last evening, we were asked: “Where would you like your table set tonight?” We opted for a private seafood barbecue on the beach. The setting was pure magic with hundreds of candles flickering in the sand. As our private chef cleared away our dessert plates, we were welcomed to celebrate our next dream to come true by lighting and flying a Thai spirit balloon. Tradition has it that the balloon carries your wishes to the gods. Later, as I drifted off to sleep, I pondered this exotic destination. Thailand was never colonized by western powers and Buddhism teaches compassion and forgiveness, rather than judgment. Maybe that explains this culture that combines cool serenity, unpredictability and the pursuit of pleasure in the most serendipitous ways. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 63
A new cruiser’s guide to lure you from shore to ship By LIZ FLEMING
Never cruised? Make this your year to set sail with this primer to help answer all your questions and ensure you’re seaworthy and ship savvy. Whether you choose a sleek river ship or a full-on ocean liner, cruises mix all the excitement of visiting multiple destinations and experiencing great activities on shore and afloat, with the luxury of having to unpack your suitcase just once. While you enjoy gourmet meals, relax over drinks with friends, watch fabulous onboard entertainment or snuggle into your welcoming stateroom, the captain and crew will take care of getting you from port to port. It’s multi-destination travel minus the hassles of car rentals, hotel reservations and suitcase schlepping. Try a cruise. While this might be your first sail-away, we guarantee it won’t be your last.
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THE LUXURY OF MORE
AN EMERALD WATERWAYS CRUISE
IS ALL ABOUT YOU
Choosing a holiday destination? Torn between five or six different great places? Wishing you could do a whirlwind tour of them all, but not willing to spend all your time driving?
EMERALD WATERWAYS HAS YOU COVERED IN THE MOST LUXURIOUS WAY POSSIBLE. if your guide is a friend – which he or she soon will be.
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hen you choose a sailing on one of the company’s high-end Star cruise ships, you’re guaranteeing yourself the pleasures of a fascinating itinerary of Europe’s most exciting ports combined with the ultimate indulgence of unpacking your bag just once. No struggles with rental cars, hotel check-ins and check-outs, or roadway signs and directions. Let the Emerald Waterways captain navigate from port to port, while you sip a glass of wine and watch from the upper deck, laugh over dinner with friends or relax in your elegant stateroom. The travel is taken care of for you – your only job is to enjoy each port. Emerald Waterways believes in handling every detail for its guests – from all-inclusive drink packages to shore excursions – ordinarily two of the priciest add-ons for cruise passengers. On other ships, the cost of shore excursions for two guests could easily be as much as $50-$100CD/ guest/day. Emerald Waterways handles things very differently. With good quality wifi also included in the price of your cruise, unless you choose to make gift or premium liquor purchases on board, you could enjoy shore excursions as well as beer and wine at meals and in the bar, and still disembark with a zero balance on your account. The included shore excursions are the highlight of any trip. At each port, you’ll explore mustsee sights and discover all the hidden gems, thanks to your Emerald Waterways guide – a knowledgeable and always personable local expert who always speaks fluent English and also considers it a privilege to introduce you to favourite places. You’ll wander through fascinating village streets, stopping for a café au lait or perhaps a chilled glass of the local brew and feeling as
Because every traveller is different, Emerald Waterways offers a variety of tours. Fascinated by a particular destination? An EmeraldPlus tour will give you the chance to go a little farther, explore a bit more and enjoy an in-depth experience – all at no extra charge. You might choose to do an optional DiscoverMore tour, or arrive a few days in advance of your sailing, or stay a little longer after you disembark. After all, with Emerald Waterways, Europe is yours to explore. Looking for a little more heart-healthy activity than the regular tours offer? Try an EmeraldActive program and take a hike, ride a bike or maybe take a spin in a kayak. There are endless choices, the equipment is provided – and everything is included. The allure of European river cruise ports is undeniable, but life on board your Emerald Star ship is wonderful, too. There may be days when the pull between ship and shore might make for a serious wrestle. Your stateroom is more than simply a comfortable retreat for the night – although it’s hard to beat the luxurious bed, plushy linens, flat screen television and entertainment system, individual climate control and personal mini-bar fridge, stocked daily with free bottled water. What really makes your stateroom an important cruise feature is the view. Because river cruise ships are sleek and lean, they can sail close to shore, ensuring a great vantage point – and the best place to enjoy that view from all Vista and Horizon deck staterooms is through your sliding glass doors. Equipped with a state-of-the-art open-air system, your cabin is designed to enable you to settle into a comfy chair and enjoy a wide-open, all-weather view of Europe’s most beautiful landscapes. If you’d prefer a bit of company, head for any of the welcoming public areas for a cappuccino or a glass of wine, a chat and a magnificent shoreline show through the gleaming windows. One of the big features of a cruise is food, and guests might find that they’ll come home a pound or two (or three?) heavier – but that’s not Emerald Waterways’ fault. The responsibility lies with the talented chefs in the kitchens who spend their time creating fabulous breakfast and luncheon buffets and then turn up the heat at dinner, offering four-course feasts that are impossible to resist. Just try! It’s not only the chefs who outdo themselves to make every Emerald Waterways cruise outstanding. Friendly smiles are a staple and every member of the crew, from the captain to the room stewards is focused on ensuring that every guest thoroughly enjoys every moment of each cruise – onboard and ashore. That’s why an Emerald Waterways Cruise is All About You.
THE LUXURY OF MORE 1.855. 444. 0161 or visit emeraldwaterways.ca BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 65
is for
is for the aft deck, where you’ll find the best views and the most luxurious suites. Many ships feature aft-area restaurants and lounges and, while you can’t see where you’re going, you get a great look at where you’ve been!
Shows with authentic NYC casts. Royal Caribbean features their Broadway at Sea™ shows including “Cats,” “Grease,” “Mamma Mia,” “Saturday Night Fever” and more.
Fans of this wild circus phenomenon have adored Norwegian Cruise Lines ever since they struck a deal with Cirque owners to create custom-designed performances for their ships.
The best part of any cruise, shore excursions are rarely included in the fare, so budget accordingly. Exceptions: Viking Cruises (both river and ocean liners), offers one free excursion per day, and some of the higher-end cruise lines, such as Silversea and Regent are all-inclusive. Your EmeraldPLUS program from Emerald Waterways provides you the opportunity to experience some of Europe’s more unique, in-depth cultural discoveries, at no additional charge.
How to choose? Some of the hottest spots for river cruises now include European wine regions, Myanmar and the Mekong delta while Russia, Antarctica and the Islands of Tahiti are among the most popular ocean cruise destinations.
is for Though pricey, shore excursions in certain cruise destinations include helicopter flights to view mountains, land on glaciers and get mind-blowing perspectives of your own ship.
The bigger the ship, the more restaurants to choose from – and for many, that’s a great reason to try one of the mega-ships. The 4,266-passenger Norwegian Escape, for example, has more than 20 restaurants aboard – and statistics show each cruise guest typically gains a pound a day!
The highpoint of popular Alaskan itineraries and a great example of how cruising can take you places you’d never see otherwise. Stand on the deck and watch ancient glaciers carving skyscraper-sized chunks into the sea.
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a great cruise destination offering glimpses of a land built on volcanoes. Go ashore to soak in the world-famous Blue Lagoon Spa, pat a miniature Icelandic pony, see spurting geysers and visit Gullfoss – a spectacular double waterfall.
Just one of the ocean cruise ship entertainment choices. Most ships have at least half a dozen bars and clubs to choose from so if you’re not a jazz fan, find the quiet pub, the hot salsa club or the kids club disco.
A great way to burn off those cruise cuisine calories. While many shore excursion outfitters offer kayaking trips, expeditions ships like Silversea’s Silver Galapagos provide their own kayaks onboard.
N is for multi-generational cruising – a fave among families looking to keep everyone together and happy. From kid’s clubs, to babysitting services and adjoining suites – some featuring balconies that can be joined to create additional outside space – cruise lines are big on catering to families.
The most important first cruise choice is between an ocean-going ship and a river cruise ship – and the deciding factor is size. While river cruise ships rarely exceed a couple of hundred guests, some ocean-going mega-ships accommodate as many as 7,000.
While almost all ocean liners feature an onboard spa, some lines go above and beyond. Aqua Class® suites on select Celebrity ships offer guests insuite spa elements as well as unlimited access to the Turkish steam rooms and saunas of their Persian Garden Spa.
Because their small size enables them to dock in places large ships can’t, river cruises provide the most intimate port experiences. Docking points are often within walking distance of shops and cafes so guests can decide to skip the organized shore excursions and do a private tour of their own.
The adventurous arctic route conquered this summer by the Crystal Serenity whose passengers enjoyed once-in-a-lifetime opportunities to experience Canada’s remote north.
The ultra-elegant Cunard ship famous for its trans-Atlantic crossings and one of the few luxury vessels in the world offering an onboard dog walking park, complete with (fake) fire hydrants.
When a ship is too large to land in a shallow harbor, the captain anchors offshore and transfers guests on smaller boats, called tenders. These typically hold several dozen passengers, operate on a rotating schedule while the ship is in port, and are included in the cost of your cruise. A security procedure your bag will go through each time you return to the ship after a shore excursion.
The fastest growing segment of the cruise market, perfect for exploring inland Europe, China, Southeast Asia, the Amazon and more.
Ships, itineraries, suites and shore excursions – the choices are unlimited but you know yourself best. Do your homework to find the best cruise for you.
The butler in your upgraded suite who’ll book your restaurant reservations and spa appointments, shine your shoes, iron your clothes and turn down your bed at night.
Believe it or not, aboard the Royal Caribbean Quantum of the Seas, your drink can be shaken and stirred by a robotic bartender who won’t even ask for ID.
Though it’s hard to say which ship has the best, the Disney Dream would be a serious contender, thanks to the Aquaduck – a giant waterslide that wraps around the outside of the lido deck for an up-close-and-personal wave view.
One of the hundreds of daily activities offered on cruise ships. Play bridge, do a wine tasting, take a yoga class – it’s all included. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 67
ON THIS PAGE: View from a cruise of Budapest’s parliament at night. OPPOSITE PAGE: Stunning corridors of the Hungarian Parliament.
Yes, we said less travelled. On the lower portion of the storied river, we revel in
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the wonders of sailing from Budapest to Bucharest By RUTH J. KATZ
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FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: The Aquavit Terrace and the Explore Suite on board the Viking Odin; The Cathedral of St. Sava at night in Belgrade.
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Devotees of the sorely missed Downton Abbey may remember the character of Cousin Violet (Lady Grantham), played by the incredible Dame Maggie Smith, asking quizzically, “What is a weekend?” And certainly, anyone who was glued to the telly for those very British broadcasts would assuredly also recall the seductive advertisements – in between Lady Mary’s barbs and the dowager-countess’ bon mots – for Viking River Cruises, a major sponsor of the series. Well, if you have the rest of the week that goes along with that weekend, and if those adverts kindled wanderlust, then, you are in luck, because Viking River Cruises has close to 300 individual cruise departures, representing nearly three dozen diverse itineraries in Europe, Egypt, Russia and in Asia. Britannia may have once ruled the waves, but with 63 ships (the largest fleet among river-cruising companies, with 4,000 employees), and a 45 per cent market share of European river-cruising, Viking rules the rivers. Although I have taken about 20 ocean and river cruises, I had never sailed with Viking, and so I chose an itinerary (Passage to Eastern Europe) that represented the road (or the river) less traveled – the Lower Danube, from Budapest to Bucharest – a regular route for Viking, but for most other river cruise lines, a less frequently offered sojourn. This journey would ensure three major cities (Belgrade was in between the two anchors), and some smaller, interesting towns and intimate villages, located in five countries – Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria and Romania. My ship was the longship Embla (just under 440 feet long, built in 2012); it is interesting to TOP: Skyline of Belgrade at night. BOTTOM: Side View of The Halászbástya or Fisherman’s Bastion, a terrace in neo-Gothic and neo-Romanesque style situated on the Buda bank of the Danube, on the Castle hill in Budapest, around Matthias Church.
note while she and her sister longships could handily ply the Danube, Europe’s longest river, they are too lengthy for the currents and zigzagging spirals of smaller rivers, like the Elbe and the Douro. With a beam of 38 feet, she is capable of negotiating the countless locks along European rivers. Indeed, ships cruising Europe’s inland waterways have to be built to accommodate the narrow passageways of the countless locks and they must also glide under myriad bridges. Therefore, it is not unusual for the wheelhouse to be constructed, as the Embla’s is, on a hydraulic lift, so that when the fit is tight, the wheelhouse can be lowered. During my journey on the Danube, there were one or two times when the crew even had to fold up and flatten the lounge chairs on the top deck so we could clear a bridge! Many Viking cruises provide a pre- or post-cruise land experience included in the fee; additionally, Viking often offers an on-land extension (with excursions) of an itinerary, for an additional fee. The package price for this 11-day journey included two pre-cruise days in Budapest. During on-land day one, I chose to take the general Budapest tour, even though I had been to the city before and had even arrived two days earlier for this trip, in order to soak up more sightseeing (like a visit to the café at the extraordinary Alexandra Bookstore), but Viking’s general city bus tour was absolutely worthwhile, particularly for orienting you between Buda (the western city section, on the hill in the Castle area) and Pest (east, across the river). Between them is the well-known suspension Szécheny Chain Bridge, the first permanent bridge to span the Danube in Hungary, opened in 1949. The tour comprises the “hot spots,” including Andrássy Avenue (the Champs-Elysees of Budapest), Heroes Square, the Castle District, Fisherman’s Bastion, Matthias Church, the Central Market, the moving Shoes on the Danube Bank monument, and a peek at the “Whale,” the Bálna cultural/shopping centre, which was a stand-in for NASA in the film The Martian. With a free afternoon, I took advantage of Viking’s included (many excursions are folded into the cruise price) tour of nearby Szentendre, or St. Andrew. It is known for its museums, crafts, artists’ galleries and cute shops, including the Margit Kovacs Museum, a marzipan museum and a massive Christmas shop. The next morning, I chose Viking’s tour of the world-renowned Dohany Street Synagogue, a stunning 19th-century Moorish-Revival-style building, with the affecting Tree of life Holocaust memorial in the courtyard. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 71
Departure from Budapest was a true treat. Captain Boris Doluhy took us
so I chose to venture to the Bakod Puszta horse farm, where Hungarian
north past the legendary Hungarian Parliament building and then around
horsemen dazzle with their gymnastic bareback riding, showing off ac-
an island, so that we could pass the gingerbread-like structure again, as
robatic stunts and tricks on their half-bred equines. One thing I learned:
well as pass the majestic Buda Castle. Did somebody say photo-op? The
That when the sound of the bullwhip crackles, it means it is breaking
sail-away party is an opportune time to socialize with your shipmates, all
the sound barrier!
180 of them. Mostly from Australia, Canada and the United States, the
The next day, we journeyed to Osijek, the fourth largest city in
group also included a smattering from far-flung anchorages, like Indone-
Croatia, and Vukovar at the confluence the Vuka and the Danube Rivers,
sia. Since we would be on board for both Canada Day and the 4th of July,
visiting the local squares, churches and sights. But the highlight was a
I suspected celebrations would be in order, and Viking did not disappoint,
visit to a family’s home to break bread; it was a special afternoon and
with singing, party favours and cakes for each holiday celebration. (And,
it is side trips like this – a Viking program specialty – that keep Viking
as an aside, after having taken a galley tour – and I have taken many
enthusiasts brand-loyal; many people I met on board said that they had
in my career – I marveled that the chef could have produced such fine
taken six, seven, or even 11 trips with the company.
cuisine in such a tiny facility.)
Belgrade – the former capital of Yugoslavia, with a population of two of Serbia’s seven million – presents a mishmash of architecture: neo-Classical, Neo-Renaissance and Romantic, as well as Soviet-inspired “museums of cement,” as it’s one of the oldest cities in Europe and has been rebuilt some 20 times. The “White City” (translated from the Serbian), both gritty and glorious, has a lovely opera house (opened in 1869) and I chose a Viking optional tour in the afternoon, visiting
was in Kalocsa, once the seat of the archbishops, surrounded by 8,000 acres of farmland, with field after field awash in lemon-yellow sunflowers.
it; the educational visit was capped off with a glass of bubbly and a delightful concert by two young singers.
The area is known, however, for its red gold, or paprika (psst, there is a Paprika Museum!), as well its delicate hand embroideries. In the Archbishop’s Palace there is a library of 120,000 volumes, including one signed by Martin Luther. Of course, Hungary has been known for her horsemen,
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FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Hungarian women wearing richly embroidered dresses; Dry paprika in the central market of Budapest.
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Beautiful detailing of the the Romanian Athenaeum Concert Hall; Exterior facade of St. Spyridon Cathedral, Bucharest Stock Exchange Palace.
Bucharest, the grand finale of my journey, features the must-see Palace of the Parliament, the second-largest building in the world, after the Pentagon, and according to my guide, the third largest parliament, after those in London and in Budapest. But for me, the highlight of the day’s excursions was a lengthy visit to the Muzeul Satului (village museum), an extraordinary open-air ethnographic museum, showcasing traditional homes and lifestyles of the country’s disparate peoples. There are nearly 275 authentic, ethnic farm houses and structures, each brought from elsewhere in Romania. This is education at its best. But then, as I gathered, having viewed all the in-room video travel adventures of Karine Hagen, senior vice president of Viking (and daughter of the founder/chairman), education is one of the take-aways of any Viking voyage. Perhaps that is the reason so many people are repeat clients. Traveling is learning, and Viking does a masterful job at making that happen.
A quiet day followed, traversing the Iron Gates of the Danube, a narrow gorge with soaring silvery-white, limestone walls, bordered by Romania on the port side and Serbia, starboard. Along the route, you’ll be greeted by the massive carving of King Decebel on a cliff façade, the Ponicova Cave, the Marconia Monastery and a Roman plaque, the Tabula Triana. In Vidin, Bulgaria, we climbed the red-hued cliffs and massifs of the Belogradchik Rocks and visited the Belogradchik Fortress, followed the next day by a sauntering sojourn through the city of Roses, or Russe, Bulgaria, where the most fragrant soaps and oils are to be found, and where we stopped by the Nativity Church, a beautiful petite jewel, with its blazing frescoes.
vikingcruisescanada.com 855-338-4546 [Canada toll-free] For 2017 sailings, this 11-day cruise (with seven guided tours in five countries) starts at US$ 2,949 (exclusive of air fare), per person, based on double occupancy. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 73
Guide The
Silky white sand, warm turquoise waters and a gentle, salt-sprayed breeze. Nothing says vacation like the Islands of the Caribbean. Here our favourite Caribbean winter escapes By DIANE SLAWYCH
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True Blue
ON THE OTHER HAND There are no non-stop flights to the island, and not a lot to do, plus accommodation can be very pricey with some rooms and villas starting at $2,000 a night. QUINTESSENTIAL EXPERIENCES A short
The Caribbean’s little known upscale gem WHY GO?
Tell people you’ve just been to Anguilla and chances are you’ll get one of two responses: “Where?” or “Angola?” No, Anguilla – east of the Virgin Islands in the Caribbean. The lack of name recognition may have to do with the fact that it’s a small island (26 km long and 5 km wide) and a relative latecomer to the tourism industry. But being somewhat off the radar is ideal for those seeking a relaxing getaway without the crowds. A dry, low lying isle, Anguilla is primarily known for its superb beaches, innovative cuisine and highend, sometimes over-the-top resorts. It’s almost impossible to take a bad photo of one of the 33 beaches here including standouts such as Rendezvous Bay, Maundays Bay and Meads Bay – long, stretches of sand that are almost blindingly white. One glimpse of the clear blue water and you’ll understand the tourism slogans, from “tranquility wrapped in blue,” often seen on brochures, to “Anguilla: 50 shades of blue,” on an overhead sign near the ferry terminal. If you’re here in March and like reggae music come for the Moonsplash Festival.
trip to Scilly Cay, a tiny coral spec, is a must while on Anguilla. If the boat’s not at the dock when you arrive, just wave and someone will fetch you for the “120 second” free ride to the cay. Come for lunch – chicken, lobster, crayfish and fish – plus the rum punch, as 175,000 have apparently been served in the past 29 years!
INSIDER TIP Even if you’re not staying at Zemi Beach House, the newest resort on Anguilla, you can still enjoy some of what it has to offer. There’s the Rhum Room, which has more than 100 different rums from about a dozen countries including some of the finer spirits going for upwards of $650 shot, and the Zemi Thai House Spa, with an authentic 300-year-old house transported from Thailand plus an amazing hammam, one of the few in the Caribbean. EXPLORE Drive around the island or hire a cab to see the beaches or check out local attractions such as Wallblake House (built in 1787, it’s the island’s only surviving plantation house), the Heritage Museum and the distinctive looking Bethel Methodist Church. Informative guided tours can be arranged through outfits such as Nature Explorers Anguilla (which offers bird watching, photography tours and more) and the Anguilla National Trust (hikes, tours to historical places). Recent rains have filled up the salt ponds, which will make for superb bird watching for months to come. Another option is a visit to a few of Anguilla’s cays including Sandy
Island and Prickly Pear Cay where you can stop for lunch, hear the bananaquits chirping in the palm trees, or spot one of the indigenous iguanas.
EAT Grilled Anguilla crayfish, spiny lobster, coconut shrimp, grouper, snapper are some of the fresh seafood items found on local menus. Curry makes an appearance in pasta salads, springs rolls and goat dishes. The ahi starter at Pimms at Cap Jaluca is a crowd pleaser, as is the Caribbean sampler at Davidas. One local hotelier described Tasty’s and E’s Oven as two restaurants where you can experience “5-star food at 3-star prices.” Mabel Gumbs’ hearty corn soup ($5 a bowl) is a local favourite and available at a roadside stall in The Valley every Saturday from about 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. SPLURGE The Malliouhana, an Auberge Resort – where luxury meets the warmth and gracious hospitality of the Caribbean – is highly regarded as one of the finest resorts in Anguilla, since its opening in 1984. With 44 rooms and suites, the boutique resort is built atop a panoramic bluff overlooking the Caribbean and reaching down to the white sands of Meads Bay and Turtle Cove beaches. Rooms start at $500 US per night. malliouhana. aubergeresorts.com Fly to St. Maarten and take one of the frequent WHEN ferries to Anguilla, which takes under 45 minutes. YOU Options for getting around GO include renting a car (you’ll need a temporary driver’s license, which costs about $20 U.S.) or hiring a taxi for $25 U.S. an hour (more after 6pm). Departure tax is $28 U.S. ivisitanguilla.com BOLDMAGAZINE.CA 75
Guide The
Caribbean-style savoir faire
Two nation vacation in the tropics and a hint of Europe
The smallest island in the world governed by two European nations, St. Maarten/St. Martin, a half Dutch, half French island, has a high satisfaction rate among visitors who experience some of the best the Caribbean has to offer. As a major hub in the region, there are plenty of flights to the island – so you’ll be on the beach (there are 37 in all) in no time. Plus the multicultural mix, with people here from 70 countries, has helped turn the island into a food lover’s paradise. St. Martin is less developed and more intimate than the Dutch side. Watch local life unfold at one of the open-air cafes by the harbour in Marigot, then climb up the remains of Fort Louis (92 steps) built in 1789 for the panoramic view of the island, before seeing pre-Columbian artifacts at the Saint Martin Museum. Lunch or dinner on Restaurant Row (with oodles of choices) in Grand Case, is a must, while day trippers will love the island-hopping opportunities to neighbouring Anguilla or St. Barth.
WHY GO?
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ON THE OTHER HAND The island can be busy on days when the cruise ships are in port. Several hotels in St. Martin are priced in Euros, which can be expensive, while finding a place to park in Marigot on weekdays can be a challenge. QUINTESSENTIAL EXPERIENCES Spend time at Marigot’s bustling harbour, with its boutiques, craft stalls and cafes. To experience St. Martin’s biggest town at its liveliest and most colourful though, visit on Wednesday or Saturday when the daily outdoor market expands to include local vendors selling an array of tropical fruits and vegetables, seafood and spices. LOCAL TIP Ilet Pinel (Pinel Island) is a protected nature reserve and a popular destination with locals especially on weekends. An uninhabited island, its calm, clear and shallow water make it ideal for families. Bring a picnic lunch, then take the shuttle boat for the five-minute ride from the shore of French Cul de Sac.
EXPLORE You don’t come to the Caribbean without spending time on the beach and St. Martin has several notable stretches of sand, from Anse
Heureuse – a little-known bay that’s good for snorkeling, to the three-kilometre-long Baie Orientale, considered one of the most beautiful. Elsewhere, enjoy the view from Pic du Paradis, the highest point on the island, visit the Butterfly Farm, hike on a 60-hectare nature preserve called Loterie Farm or check out the attractions on the Dutch side.
EAT The heart of the culinary scene on St. Martin can be found on the strip in Grand Case. Choices run the gamut from French bistros to gourmet restaurants and beachside barbecue stands called lolos. Fresh seafood, Codfish fritters, chicken, spare ribs, pigeon pea soup and sweet potato pudding are some of what you’ll find in what many people call the “culinary capital of the Caribbean.”
There are plenty of options for getting to the WHEN island including some all-inclusive package trips. YOU On arrival you can rent GO a car, scooter or moped and zip around on the well-maintained roads with ease. Car rental rates are competitive – expect an average of $30 U.S. a day. stmartinisland.org
Charming sisters
Unspoiled and unpretentious
WHY GO?
Two former British colonies, just three kilometres apart, St. Kitts and Nevis are among the prettiest islands in the Caribbean, something you’ll appreciate while riding “the Last Railway in the West Indies,” or strolling amid tropical flowers at the Botanical Gardens where Mt. Nevis serves as a picturesque backdrop. Even with major high-end projects – Kittitian Hill and Christophe Harbour - the twin islands are still largely undeveloped. Come here for uncrowded beaches, restored 18th century plantation inns and history, including Brimstone Hill Fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in St. Kitts. In the capital cities of Basseterre and Charlestown you’ll find homes with gingerbread fretwork and centuries-old buildings, constructed at a time when sugar was king. Nevis, which has no stoplights, is the smaller and quieter of the two. American patriot Alexander Hamilton was born here and you can visit his reconstructed home; while Lord Horatio Nelson, who once visited on military patrol, married local woman Frances Nisbet and left behind a collection of items that are now on display at the Museum of Nevis History. Between them, the islands also have some gorgeous beaches, as well as activities on the water from sailing, diving and snorkeling to windsurfing and deep-sea fishing, or on land for hiking, golfing, horseback riding and ziplining.
ON THE OTHER HAND Many of the plantation inns are not on the beach. There are few all-inclusives and limited shopping. QUINTESSENTIAL EXPERIENCE The St. Kitts Scenic Railway is a unique and popular excursion. Built between 1912 and 1926, the old narrow-gauge train once delivered sugarcane from the fields to the mill in Basseterre, and now carries tourists on a leisurely, narrated journey passing cane fields, ocean views and cliffs, villages, old windmills and the volcanic cone of Mt. Liamuiga. The three-hour trip covers 28 km by rail and 19 km by bus and makes a complete 48 km circle around the island. INSIDER TIP Frigate Bay isn’t just a beautiful beach, it’s also a good place to get lunch at one of the many stalls that line this happening strip. For local action when the sun goes down, head to Mr. X’s Shiggidy Shack on Thursday night for their famous bonfire parties; Friday for steel-pan music and Saturday for karaoke night!
EXPLORE Consider a rainforest hike or one of the other tours offered through Greg’s Safaris whose family has lived on the island for generations. For more adventurous travellers, consider a hike to one of two volcanoes – 1,156-metre high Mt Liamuiga in St. Kitts, or the harder climb for which a guide is definitely recommended up 985-metre high Nevis Peak. EAT The national dish of St. Kitts and Nevis is stewed saltfish, dumplings, plantains and breadfruit. Other local specialties include goat water stew, crab back, roti and conch. For a special night out, there’s farm-to-table cuisine at The Kitchen, with produce sourced from Kittitian Hill’s organic farm.
The best way to see both islands is to fly to St. Kitts, then take a ferry to Nevis. Ferries depart frequently throughout the day for the 30 to 40 minute journey. For official tourism information check stkittstourism.kn.
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Guide The
Crowd Pleaser
Civility in the tropics
If you listen closely, you’ll often hear well-mannered citizens greet each other in formal tones: “Good Day Mrs. Phillips,” “Hello Mr. Adams.” On the most British island in the Caribbean (British rule lasted for 340 years until independence in 1966), they drive on left side of the road, play cricket and serve afternoon tea at places like Cobblers Cove. But that’s just part of the story. The beaches run the gamut from Crane Beach, an oft raved-about crescent of pink sand, to calm Mullins Beach, ideal for swimming and snorkeling, and Bathsheba, a popular surfer spot. For history, the capital city Bridgetown along with its garrison is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with many buildings dating from the 1700s. Though it’s worth venturing around the island to uncover other gems, including two historic Great Houses: Sunbury Plantation House and Museum, and St. Nicholas Abbey (circa 1650). One of the island’s top attractions is Harrison’s Cave, a limestone cavern that visitors explore on a one-hour long underground journey via electric tram. It’s above ground though where the island’s tropical beauty really shines, at places such as the Andromeda Botanical Gardens, the Flower Forest and Hunte’s Gardens, each one a completely unique experience.
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ON THE OTHER HAND Barbados can be pricey, compared to Cuba, for example, where all-inclusives predominate. Beaches are very good, though not on a par with jaw-droppingly gorgeous stretches of sand to be found on islands such as Anguilla or Barbuda. CLAIM TO FAME Once one of the largest producers of sugar, Barbados is home to the world’s oldest rum distiller – Mount Gay, established in 1703. The visitor centre offers tours of the blending and bottling plant, along with a film, an exhibit and rum tasting. QUINTESSENTIAL EXPERIENCE The Crop Over festival is an annual month long event (from about July 1 to August 1) that traces its history to the 1700s when Barbadian slaves celebrated the end of the sugar harvest. A lively parade and calypso music are among the highlights. LOCAL TIP Oistins is the place to be on Friday and Saturday nights when the fishing village is transformed into an open-air street festival and fish fry. There’s music and local crafts for sale, and plenty of food, such as grilled kingfish, barbecue chicken, macaroni pie, breadfruit and cassava, all cooked at outdoor stalls while you wait. WOW! If you missed the chance to fly on the British Airways Concorde (G-BOAE) now you can see it up close and stroll the aisle of this retired supersonic aircraft, which flew for many years between London and Barbados, and opened for tours on the island in 2007.
EAT LOCAL Flying fish is the national dish and can be served steamed, fried or grilled. Pepper pot – a stew of oxtail, beef and other meat in a rich gravy, is also popular.
The island is busiest (and priciest) in the high season from around mid-December to mid-April. Some hotels close in September and October for annual maintenance. Roads are well maintained, though traffic near Bridgetown isn’t unusual. visitBarbados.org
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