Bold Holiday Travel Special Issue

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Introducing

BOLD JOURNEYS 10 incredible itineraries

created just for you

EUROPE for Christmas

Hawaii AUSTRALIA Israel Sri Lanka Dubai San Diego

GO!

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Pure joy.

302 trips. 7 continents.

Moments like this on every one.

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71 Isn’t Just a Great Golf Round at Sea Island!

71% sunny days in January

•

71º average high temperature in February

(And zero snow days)

fishing Stream lf u G e and r-shor e, nea r o 6 h s In

Three ch ampion ship golf courses

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Beating par is great — but here, “71” makes January and February just right for enjoying our new 71’ yacht, new 18-hole putting course, and new 17,000-square-foot Golf Performance Center (early 2019), plus five miles of private beach, Forbes Five-Star spa, and so much more.

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3 10 17 24

CONTENTS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

In This Issue 52 THE TAO OF POI

It’s true that Hawaii is one of the most beautiful places in the world; but Paul Gallant found the menus just as transportive

58 HOPPING THROUGH PARADISE Emu Bay by Isaac Forman/South Australia Tourism

Just off the coast of South Australia, Sarah Treleaven discovers an array of wildlife amidst breathtaking scenery

64 A DECIDEDLY FRENCH CONNECTION

With its gorgeous landscapes and oh-so-French culture, Saint-Pierre and Miquelon is the farthest you can get from Canada without crossing the Atlantic, reports Jennifer Bain

Emu Bay Beach in South Australia. boldmagazine.ca

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CONTENTS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

24

28 37

Also in This Issue 10 EDITOR’S NOTE 12 EDITOR’S ITINERARY: The best journeys for the adventurous

14 CONTRIBUTORS

37 Inspired by ICEHOTEL in Jukkasjärvi, Sweden 38 GLOBETROTTER: Virtuoso’s Matthew Upchurch shares his travel philosophies

71 INSIDER’S GUIDE: San Diego—Our little

17 CUISINE: The best Christmas markets…

black book on where to stay, what to eat and what to do

20 STAY: Israel’s Elma hotel

76 TRAVEL INTEL: Lightening your luggage and other travel news

and how to get to them

26

17

22 TRAVEL TWO WAYS: Whether

glamorous or more homey, Charleston is always friendly

82 WORTH TRAVELLING FOR: Lokrum

island, Croatia

24 WANDERLUST: The top four sights for Sri Lanka newbies

26 DINE: Nadia Di Donato reveals how to create the perfect dining room 28 FOOD DIARIES: The life of chef Rich Francis in photos

30 WEEKENDER: The new V&A Museum in Dundee, Scotland

34 BEAUTY: Why beauty serums are an essential travel companion 36 LOCAL EXPERT: Marie Ela Lanzanas

of Fairmont Dubai reveals the best the city has to offer

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EDITOR’S NOTE

No one is an island From Homer’s The Odyssey and Daniel Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe to Michel Houellebecq’s gloomy holidayland Lanzarote, islands have always had a particular hold on the human imagination. Islands cultivate cultures distinct from the mainland mainstream, promote a warm interdependence among inhabitants and, of particular interest to visitors, possess ample coastline to frolic and gaze upon. Whether we arrive by bridge, ferry or tunnel, we immediately know we are in a place set apart from the rest of the world. We might even feel cut off, free. During the stretch of human history when seaports, not airports, were how we made our way to far flung destinations, many islands played the role of wayposts and sanctuaries—many are more cosmopolitan and colourful than they have any right to be by dint of their size and proximity to larger populations.

There’s a good reason Hawaii (page 52) has held a special place in the hearts of Canadians for generations. The remoteness is mind boggling, as is the stunning geography. But it’s the layers of cultures—including a certain breed of mainlander Americans who arrive yearning for a Pacific utopia and do their best to create and maintain one—that make the place so soulful… and so delicious.

Less well known is South Australia’s Kangaroo Island (page 58), a place where the wildlife and sweeping vistas are part of everyday life for the locals—and a once-in-a-lifetime adventure for visitors. Closer to home, SaintPierre and Miquelon (page 64) have demonstrated an amazing capacity to remain decidedly French, even while wrapped inside Canadian territory. *** It’s hard to believe, but sometimes the BOLD team sticks closer to home, especially during the holidays. But that doesn’t stop us from drawing inspiration from the places we’ve been and the places we hope to visit. To help us entertain at home this holiday season, we’ve taken a quick tour of some of the world’s most picturesque Christmas markets for gift and menu ideas (page 17), and talked to a top restaurateur about how to design the perfect dining experience (page 26).

I’m still using the cajun spices I brought back from Louisiana during my last trip to New Orleans, and the sumptuous blue batik tablecloth my friend brought me from Sulawesi gets hauled out almost every time I’m gathering friends around my dining room table. We are fortunate to live in a world where commodities that were once so hard to come by, like spices, textiles and china, can be ordered online or, better yet, tucked into a suitcase before a flight home. The chefs and the street-food vendors, though, don’t quite fit in our bags.

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Photo by Tishan Baldeo

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EDITOR’S ITINERARY

Incredible VOYAGE If the idea of an adventurous holiday sounds exciting, but the thought of shivering in a sleeping bag is less enticing, an expedition cruise might be just what you’re looking for, reports Liz Fleming

ANTARCTIC Challenging the waters around the South Pole takes not only serious expertise, but also rugged ships, like the ones used by One Ocean Expeditions. In every sense a true expedition, this cruise will be guided by the weather conditions as you explore the ice and come face-to-face with legions of penguins. While the accommodations on this ship are basic, you’ll be comfortable, well-fed and treated to some of the best lecturers and scientific presentations on Antarctica to be found afloat. oneoceanexpeditions.com GALAPAGOS ISLANDS When Charles Darwin visited the Galapagos Islands to write his famous On the Origin of Species, what he found there changed his life. It will change yours, too. Animals, fish, birds—every living thing in the Galapagos has been protected by UNESCO for generations, so humans don’t damage the precious ecosystem. With the Silversea Cruises expedition, prepare to be immersed in the natural world like never before, then motor back to the ship in your Zodiac to share stories while enjoying the impeccable service, outstanding cuisine and luxurious staterooms. silversea.com

Xxxxxxx

Here are our picks for the five most thrilling expedition cruises available at the moment.

ALASKAN COAST If you have the heart of an explorer and a passion for wildlife, head for Alaska with UnCruise Adventures. You’ll have incredible access to off-the-beaten path adventure, and up close wildlife viewing. Hike, kayak and sail by skiff to discover the real Alaska, including bear, moose, mountain goats, Sitka deer, whales, seals, otters, eagles and perhaps even the Northern Lights. Aboard one of their small ships the interaction with well-informed, friendly crew members makes it seem like you’re touring with old friends. uncruise.com

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NORWEGIAN FJORDS If you’ve always thought that cruising was a warm-weather activity, think again. While you certainly can cruise the Norwegian fjords during the spring and summer, a winter sailing with Hurtigruten Cruises will give you a whole new take on this gorgeous country. Shore excursions include snowmobile safaris to find the Northern Lights, crab fishing through holes chopped in thick polar ice, dog sledding, snowbiking, crossing the Arctic Circle and more.

Back on the ship, you’ll savour traditional Norwegian dishes such as smoked fish and brown cheese (don’t ask, just eat) while you learn about Norwegian geography and culture from well-versed experts. hurtigruten.com

Image courtesy of Ocean One Expeditions

Expedition cruises are available in a tantalizing range of locales around the world, but share two important elements: daytime activities involve outdoor adventures such as kayaking, wildlife viewing, hiking, white-water rafting and exploring fascinating sites, while evenings will be spent aboard a ship whose amenities can range from just-fine to absolutely-luxurious, depending on your budget.

PATAGONIA Sometimes you need to explore by land and by sea to get the true measure of a place. National Geographic’s expedition to Patagonia begins with four sensational days of sailing on an expedition ship past remote fjords and massive glaciers before you head inland to discover a world of secluded waterfalls, towering cliffs and shimmering lakes. You’ll spend your days hiking majestic Magdalena Island, photographing thousands of Magellanic penguins and meeting real Patagonian gauchos. At night, you’ll relax and gaze over the peaks of Torres del Paine National Park at the Tierra Patagonia, a National Geographic Unique Lodge of the World. nationalgeographic.com

EXTRAORDINARY STORIES “Adventure travel can be anything that gets you moving or gets your heart racing, so it’s a lot more inclusive than some people might think”

FEED THE NEED TO TRAVEL with

ALEXANDRA GRANT

AND DISCOVER THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND EXPERIENCES THAT MAKE A TRIP UNFORGETTABLE. TURN TO PAGE 40

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Cover photo by Julius Silver

CONTRIBUTORS NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2018

ON THE COVER Night view of Prague’s Vltava River from Charles Bridge.

Marlon J. Moreno CEO + Editorial Director Luis Chavez Vice President, Operations Pina Russo Chief Digital Officer Paul Gallant Executive Editor Liz Fleming Associate Editor, Travel Intel Magda de la Torre Americas Editor CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jennifer Bain • Andrew Brudz • Waheeda Harris Vawn Himmelsbach • Ruth J. Katz Doug O’Neill • Giomar Savoca • Rohan Sood • Sarah Treleaven ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN Laura García PHOTOGRAPHY Tishan Baldeo WEB DEVELOPER Rahul Nair

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30

64

ROHAN SOOD Writer

WAHEEDA HARRIS Writer

JENNIFER BAIN Writer

SEEKING SRI LANKA A traveller at heart, Rohan has visited 22 countries across six continents. His favourite experiences are plunging in to sub-zero Antarctic waters, renovating a Buddhist monastery in Sri Lanka and hiking jungles in Borneo. He is also an engineer, a sustainability activist and a polar explorer.

Instagram @geeknextdoor

DUNDEE, NOT SO TWEE A traveller from an early age, Waheeda has been writing about our planet for the past 10 years, appreciates good design, the aisle seat on a plane and one switch to turn off hotel room lights.

She’s grateful to learn about the planet every day.

Instagram @waheedaharris

A DECIDEDLY FRENCH CONNECTION Jennifer is a Canadian journalist and cookbook author with homes in Toronto and Fogo Island. She’s writing a fishing adventure book as she tackles a Master of Fine Arts in Creative Nonfiction through the University of King’s College.

Jennifer is the former travel and food editor at the Toronto Star and now freelances for a variety of publications.

Instagram @thesaucylady

SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Juan Felipe Galán ADVERTISING & SALES United in Change Media Yvonne Xenidis Chief Revenue Officer 416.624.5496 yvonne@unitedinchange.com MEDIA SALES PARTNER Linda Angellotti 416.831.6069 linda@unitedinchage.com For Lifestyle and Co-Branded Partnerships, Promotions, Reprints and Sponsorships inquiries marlon@morenoco.com • luis@morenoco.com Phone: 1.416.323.7828 extension 25 PUBLIC RELATIONS AGENCY Jesson + Company jessonco.com info@jessonco.com 77 Bloor St. West, Suite 1200 Toronto, ON M5S 1M2 CORRESPONDENCE The Hudson Bay Centre 20 Bloor St. East, P.O. Box 75075 Toronto, ON M4W 3T3 BOLD ® is published bimonthly by Moreno & Company Inc. Opinions expressed in BOLD® are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers.

BOLD® does not assume liability for content.

All prices quoted are in rounded Canadian dollars, accurate at press time, unless otherwise noted. www.boldmagazine.ca

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because of your cultural traditions

El Güegüense (also known as Macho Ratón) is regarded as one of Latin America’s most distinctive colonial-era expressions and as Nicaragua’s signature folkloric masterpiece combining music, dance and theater.

The theatrical play was written by an anonymous author in the 16th century, making it one of the oldest indigenous theatrical/dance works of the Western Hemisphere, According to the first written version the plot has 314 lines and was originally written in both Nahuatl and Spanish

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INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS

AGENDA SEE. EXPERIENCE. HEAR. SHARE. GO.

AGENDA

[ CUISINE ]

YULETIDE Bright

EUROPE’S BEST CHRISTMAS MARKETS ARE MORE HISTORY AND TRADITION THAN BARGAINS. HERE, SOME OF THE MOST PICTURESQUE

Though Germany is the country best known for Christmas markets, one of Europe’s best and oldest, dating back to 1570, is right across the border. Strasbourg’s Christkindelsmärik is spread out in the cobble-stoned historic district, though Place Broglie and Place de la Cathédrale form the modern core of vendors and activities.

In the past, it was a tradition to put presents for the poor under the massive Christmas tree; today there are more than 60 charity stalls, called the Village of Sharing, selling souvenirs and food to benefit worthwhile causes. The market is certainly one of Europe’s prettiest and most enthusiastic—the city declared itself the Capital of Christmas in 1992—with decorations and lights on many of the centre’s half-timbered houses. In the early 19th century, the markets lasted a mere six days; now it lasts more than a month. The city, officially the seat of European Parliament, is worth a visit any time of the year, as is Kehl, the German city right across the river. strasbourg.eu BEST WAY TO ARRIVE: Both Uniworld and AMA Waterways have Rhine River holiday cruises that take passengers through Strasbourg during market season. uniworld.com; amawaterways.com EAT THIS: A Frenchified pretzel, the bretzel is made from brioche dough and comes in sweet and savoury varieties.

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Merciere Street photo by Christopher Hamm; Strasbourg gateway photo by Philippe de Rexel

STRASBOURG, FRANCE

OPPOSITE PAGE: The illuminated entrance to Strasbourg’s Christmas market.

ON THIS PAGE: Christmas Ornaments on show in Budapest; holiday bliss in Prague’s Old Town Square; the Tivoli Garden carousel in Copenhagen.

BUDAPEST, HUNGARY Occupying Vörösmarty Square and the square in front of St. Stephen’s Basilica Budapest, the Budapest Christmas Fair and Winter Festival features cottage-style wooden stalls and two outdoor stages. It’s certainly not the biggest, but it’s colourful and definitely one of the fastest growing. budapestchristmas.com BEST WAY TO ARRIVE: The city is a stop on several holiday cruises along the Danube. Try Emerald Waterways, U by Uniworld or AMA Waterways. emeraldwaterways.ca; ubyuniworld.com; amawaterways.com WHAT TO EAT: stuffed cabbage served in a bun.

PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC

Budapest photo by Jorge Franganillo; Copenhagen photo by Kim Wyon

Throughout the one-month market and festival, choirs in traditional dress perform in the Old Town Square, where the main Christmas tree is located. Nearby Wenceslas Square, of course, has its own tree. It can get so busy, it’s often better to drop by later in the evening when the crowds have thinned. For further exploration, check out the many crèche nativity-scene exhibitions around the city.

BEST WAY TO ARRIVE: The final stop on Emerald Waterways’ Christmas Danube cruise is the Czech capital. emeraldwaterways.ca WHAT TO EAT: Trdelník are long, cylindrical pastries covered in sugar and cooked over hot coals.

FIRA DE SANTA LLÚCIA, BARCELONA Central Europe doesn’t have a complete lock on Christmas markets. Fira de Santa Llúcia, which takes place in front of the city’s cathedral on Plaça de la Seu, is just one of the Christmas markets in the Catalan capital, with a history going back to 1786. Children bring presents to a statue of the weird folkloric figure Caga Tió.

BEST WAY TO ARRIVE: Come by ferry from Italy, France, Sardinia or Morocco.

WHAT TO EAT: Hunt down some piping hot escudella i carn d’olla soup, made with enormous galets (noodles).

COPENHAGEN, DENMARK For Christmas, the city’s beloved Tivoli Gardens is lined by Christmas trees and illuminated by thousands of lights, and Santa sets up camp. About 50 stalls offer arts and crafts, drinks and snacks among the trees. Tired of eating and shopping? Hop on some of the rides at the world’s second oldest amusement park.

BEST WAY TO ARRIVE: Tivoli is just a five-minute walk from Copenhagen’s central train station.

WHAT TO EAT: Try an æbleskiver, which is a pancake puff. The name comes from the apple slices they used to contain, but nowadays they’re usually apple-free.

CLOSER TO HOME: Inspired by European Christmas markets, the Bank of America Winter Village at Bryant Park in New York City features more than 175 shops, and free ice skating, from late October to early January. In Toronto, the Distillery District’s cobblestone streets are the perfect venue for strolling amongst twinkling stalls. bryantpark.org; torontochristmasmarket.com boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA

[ STAY ]

STATE of

the Arts

A concrete complex that was once a sanatorium provides commanding Mediterranean views—and more cool than you can imagine

BY SARAH TRELEAVEN 20 boldmagazine.ca

Photos courtesy Elma Hotel

E

lma, a remarkable spot in Israel’s verdant north, is not your typical hotel.

The property eschews the generic and embraces the surprising and delightful, with interesting and unique design details around every corner. It’s the only time I’ve ever walked around a hotel just saying “cool” over and over.

The brutalist concrete structure was originally built in the 1960s by an Israeli pension fund looking to provide a getaway for their employees.

But in the early 2000s, a wealthy patron converted it into a 39-room art hotel. But it’s not simply a fancy place that throws a few canvasses up on the wall behind reception. There are two concert halls, two formal galleries, several studies that accommodate artist residencies, and the walls, rooms and common spaces are full of interesting paintings, sculptures, photographs, objets d’art and other wonderful things.

Elma feels extremely modern yet light. There are touches of nature everywhere; I stayed in a corner Panorama room, and saw hummingbirds in the small adjacent garden. The views stretch out over the Mediterranean, with Haifa just barely visible in the distance. When the wind is just right, you can also hear the call to prayer from a neighbouring Arab village—one of the sweetest sounds in the world, especially when paired with a sunset over the Mediterranean.

The food is also excellent, and guests can choose from half-board or full-board options.

Dinners are more formal affairs—as formal as things get in Israel, where even members of the Knesset are rarely seen wearing suits— with options like steak and grilled fish, plus an extensive (and quite good) list of Israeli and European wines. (The property also offers regular wine tastings with the in-house sommelier.)

“A tasteful, culture-rich oasis like this is unique in the context of Israeli chaos”

Breakfasts are, in the Israeli fashion, pure magic. Kibbutz culture has inspired a slavish devotion to hearty and healthy breakfast fare, and Elma is a shining example. The hotel’s morning buffet is spread across multiple tables and bars, and includes everything from pizza, baked eggs and muffins to dozens of fresh salads, cheeses, breads, fresh fruit and dips like hummus and baba ghanoush. Add a cappuccino or two, ideally while sitting on the terrace and staring at the sea, and there’s no better way to start the day.

The nearby town of Zichron Yaakov (which is walkable from Elma) is part of Israel’s wine route. Visitors can spend a day ambling the streets, poking around in shops and trying some of the restaurants. But Elma was built like a resort destination and most guests will be quite content to simply stay put. In addition to cultural programming, there’s a large and lovely pool, a gym built inside the original bomb shelter (which is more charming than it perhaps sounds) and a spa with a Turkish hamam. There is an abundance of common spaces, places to just linger and enjoy the view or some art. Adjacent to the main lobby, there’s a small café-bar where you have enjoy a cocktail while staring at the buttocks of two very Adam-like sculptures in an enclosed garden.

Despite all the activities available, the overarching point is simply to be—to take in the culture and food and the amazingly decompressing views, and to luxuriate in the specialness of the place. A tasteful, culture-rich oasis like this isn’t just unique in the context of Israeli chaos, but in a world of increasingly generic hospitality options. Rooms from $400/ night. elma-hotel.com boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA [ TRAVEL TWO WAYS ]

INTIMATE GRANDEUR WHETHER YOU CHOOSE A FORMER BARONIAL-STYLE RESIDENCE OR A FIVE-STAR PROPERTY IN THE HEART OF TOWN, HISTORIC CHARLESTON ALWAYS ROLLS OUT THE RED CARPET

BY RUTH J. KATZ

BELMOND CHARLESTON PLACE

W

hile the native population of Charleston, South Carolina, is 150,000, the city blossoms monthly by an average of 575,000 additional souls, due to its being a popular vacation destination. Southern Living magazine voted it the Best Southern City in 2018; and it was the number-one city in the United States, according to the Condé Nast Traveler 2017 Readers’ Choice Awards (for the seventh consecutive year).

If you want to stay regally in the thick of this history-filled city, then the Belmond Charleston Place has your name on the door of one of its more than 400 rooms. The hotel evokes a feeling of a grand, 17 th-century residence, from its lavish suites to the Italian-marble lobby with its signature Georgian open-arm staircase and its 12-foot-tall crystal chandelier.

Yet it delivers 21 st-century comfort and amenities, from the sumptuous breakfast spread offered on the executive-level floor (and there are always vats of that Southern specialty, benne wafers, out for the sampling), to the shopping mecca off the lobby, with tony brand names dotting the offerings.

The hotel’s main entrance is in a sheltered inner courtyard, but there is also access through the retail arcade, which spills out onto busy Meeting Street; either way, you’re a stone’s throw from the famous open-air marketplace and all the action on King Street, including a plethora of down-home and finestyle eateries that will leave you sated. You are also within five-minutes’ walking distance from the Gibbes Museum, the landmark Dock Street Theatre, the local historical society and countless historic homes.

Employees, accustomed to serving a cavalcade of princes, politicians and pedestrian folk, are dedicated to indulging guests with the friendliest Southern hospitality and care: When I left a jumble of hair clips, barrettes and ponytail scrunchies on the vanity, the housekeeper caringly arranged them just-so, on top of a linen serviette. I was equally as gobsmacked by the thoughtfulness of Mickey Bakst, the general manager of the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant, Charleston Grill. I ordered Champagne for my birthday, and when he heard that, he arranged for a surprise mini-tasting of a few different bubblies.

And don’t overlook a trip to the cosseting spa, a must—try the Tata Harper Nothing But Nature Facial. charlestonplace.com; belmond.com

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URBAN GLAMOUR WENTWORTH MANSION

“C

ould this possibly be my Uber ride?” I wondered, as a sleek gray sedan pulled up curbside outside the majestic Wentworth Mansion.

There was a co-pilot riding shotgun—a Chattahoochee gun dog, appropriately named Gunner. I could just imagine in my northern hometown, an Uber driver taking his furry canine along for a day’s work! But south of the MasonDixon Line, Southern hospitality rules.

Graciousness is certainly paramount at the Wentworth Mansion. Owner-hosts Linn Lesesne and Richard Widman (along with their caring staff) do all they can to make one’s stay simply seamless. Linn is likely responsible for the soft, black washcloth, embroidered with “make-up” in the bathroom, providing an ideal method for swiping off war paint, without destroying the fluffy, white terrycloth towels.

These very cordial proprietors proffer lemonade and iced tea all day long in the great room. In a snug, vest-pocket anteroom off the cozy living room, there is an ever-present tray of elegant crystal carafes, brimming with port and brandy. Every day at 5pm, a sumptuous groaning board of wine and hors d’oeuvres is offered in the enclosed wrap-around porch. And if all that were not enough, the mini in-room fridge has soft drinks and water, gratis.

A member of Small Luxury Hotels, the Second Empirestyle Wentworth is a quietly glamorous 21-room hotel, once the 1886 Gilded Age family home to Francis Silas Rogers, a wealthy merchant and father of 13. The stately manse passed into the hands of two organizations before Widman purchased it in 1997 and pumped some $7 million into restoring its heirloom grandeur, highlighting imperial architectural details, including Tiffany glass, and adding modern, marble baths and 21 st -century necessities. Widman even installed a widow’s walk on the roof, providing a panorama of the city. All the rooms are configured differently, as you might imagine in a converted residence. All have period-inspired furnishings as well as all the 21 st-century amenities the digital age demands.

Located a short ride or pleasant stroll from the heart of downtown, the hotel has a stately front entrance that few use; ’round back is a quaint garden and beyond that, the parking lot. Two short pathways lead to the intimate, but perfect spa, and to Ca. 1886, the hotel’s restaurant, serving succulent and creative fare, which is no surprise, since Charleston is a foodie’s paradise. wentworthmansion.com; slh.com boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA [ WANDERLUST ]

SEEKING SRI LANKA As the lush tropical island emerges as an international tourist destination, ROHAN SOOD proposes four adventures for first-timers

I

It was step 5,500 and I had finally achieved a spiritual high atop one of Sri Lanka’s highest peaks, a spot that also doubles as a place of worship. I had been busy spotting elephants the day before and was heading over to a beach town the next day. With all it has to offer, Sri Lanka can leave a traveller exhausted and enamoured in equal parts. Still recovering from the pillage of its colonial past and a civil war, Sri Lanka is not the easiest destination. Public transportation is not from this century and the weather switches between sweltering heat and a steady downpour without notice.

But with its lush rainforests, distinctive culture and picturesque beaches, this pearl in the Indian Ocean is attracting more and more visitors. Though the landscape can be spectacular, the hospitality and laidback vibe is what turns first-timers into repeat visitors.

Here, four places to start exploring the country.

1. HIKING ADAM’S PEAK People from all over the world ascend this mountain for two reasons. One is to offer prayers at the summit, which is sacred for three religions, Buddhism, Islam and Hinduism. The other is to experience the spectacular sunset.

HOW TO DO IT: Trekkers need to start the 2,300-metre hike in the middle of the night. Though the trail is marked and has several pit stops along the way, the trail sometimes gets busy. The trailhead is in a little town called Dalhousie.

2. ADMIRING ELEPHANTS IN PINNAWALA The largest land mammals on earth, elephants are gentle, intelligent and social creatures. So much so that right before the tsunami in 2004, coastal elephants in Sri Lanka moved inland having sensed the impending calamity. Located in the heart of elephant country, Pinnawala Orphanage provides a rare opportunity to see the largest subspecies of Asian elephants, found only in Sri Lanka. The orphanage cares for nearly 100 orphaned elephants that are fed and bathed in the Pinnawala river every day.

HOW TO DO IT: Pinnawala can be reached by a threehour train ride from Sri Lanka’s capital, Colombo. nationalzoo.gov.lk/elephantorphanage

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3. EXPLORING SRI LANKA’S CULTURAL EPICENTRE, KANDY While many Sri Lankan cities can be crowded and dusty, Kandy, the second largest city after Colombo, stands tall as an ancient metropolis that was once the seat to Lankan royals. Kandy is a designated UNESCO World Heritage site and is famous for being home to the Buddhist Temple of the Tooth. The temple, which actually has a tooth as a relic, is widely regarded as one of the most sacred spots in Buddhism.

HOW TO DO IT: Make sure to take in the cultural show at the Kandy Lake Club, complete with elaborate costumes and spirited drumming, which depicts forms of Kandyan dances that have their roots in ancient Indian shaman performances. Kandy is about two and a half hours from Colombo by train or bus.

4. HIKKADUWA Sri Lanka is famous for its expansive shoreline and soothing beaches. Hikkaduwa is a small town on the southern coast of Sri Lanka, about 98 kilometres south of Colombo. The town has all the trappings of a popular beach destination, complete with seaside restaurants, street shopping and signboards in Russian and Hebrew. Ideal for swimming, the water is usually bathwater warm and the waves are smooth, making it a popular surf destination.

HOW TO DO IT: Several trains and buses can bring you to Hikkaduwa from Colombo.

The route runs along the coast and offers breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean.

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AGENDA

[ DINE ]

The Dining Room

THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR BEHIND TORONTO’S DON ALFONSO 1890, SHARES SOME LESSONS IN FINE DESIGNING WITH ANDREW BRUDZ

A

IN THE MOOD With each new project, Di Donato begins by asking: “When someone is experiencing this food, how do I want them to feel in the space?” And what does she want them to feel at Don Alfonso 1890, the first North American outpost of the Michelin-rated Italian restaurant?

“Coming from an Italian background, I really identified with the classic flavours intricately prepared,” she says. “I wanted that same sense to translate to the design.” She captures the feeling she wants, first, in a mood board, filled with colours, textures and inspirations, before bringing it all to life.

WHAT’S OLD IS NEW When opening a new restaurant, there’s a temptation to start with a clean slate, but heritage details and repurposed pieces add a sense of history. The 1852 Consumers’ Gas Building in Toronto’s financial district had been home to Rosewater Supper

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Photos courtesy Liberty Entertainment Group

fine dining experience doesn’t have to be boring,” Nadia Di Donato tells me. The creative director at Liberty Entertainment Group, Di Donato should know, having recently overseen every visual element of Toronto’s new Don Alfonso 1890 restaurant.

First on our minds when we sit down in a restaurant is the food. But décor can say just as much about a place as the menu.

It transports guests to another place, reflects the style of cuisine or simply sets the mood.

In the case of Don Alfonso 1890, the interior’s mix of Amalfi Coast airiness and Toronto multiculturalism tells a story both about the city and the unique Mediterranean cuisine from father and son chefs Alfonso (after whom the restaurant is named) and Ernesto Iaccarino.

OPPOSITE PAGE:The main dining room, Ice Creamed Eel topped with sturgeon caviar. ON THIS PAGE: The white marbled bar; Collection of canapés from the contemporary menu; the perfect wine pairing.

Club since 1996. After shutting its doors in January, Di Donato began transforming the ornate but dated space.

She pays subtle homage to the Rosewater legacy, reusing the supper club’s old glass partitions in the entryway’s front doors. And upstairs in the lounge, Di Donato has brazenly taken some old pieces of blocky contemporary art and stenciled the bar’s menu of molecular cocktails over them.

GLOBAL FLAVOUR HERE ARE FOUR MORE STRIKING RESTAURANT SPACES FROM AROUND THE WORLD GO FOR DRAMA Restaurant Kunsthalle, Basel, Switzerland The dramatic ceiling fixture made of thousands of suspended shells was designed by the late Danish designer Verner Panton. Once in his own home, it sat in storage for 30 years before being installed inside his favourite restaurant. restaurant-kunsthalle.ch

GO WITH THE FLOW The flow of the room should be both comfortable and logical, connecting diners to the primary purpose of their visit—a meal.

When guests walk into Don Alfonso, they are immediately greeted by the sights and smells of the pastry kitchen, where delicate creations are prepared in full view. In the dining room, Di Donato selected round tables for more natural movement for staff. And to complete the experience, after their meal, guests are escorted through the kitchen for a peek at the chefs in action.

Even though the cozy lounge, the sleek bar and open dining room each have their own distinct vibe, Di Donato connects them visually by carrying Laminam porcelain throughout, creating an expansive marble illusion across floors and counter spaces.

BE BOLD A pale palette doesn’t mean you have to forego unexpected splashes of colour. “Layering of whites and textures gives it a sense of worth and comfort, without feeling sterile.” Italian porcelain tiles inserted throughout the space look like shimmering little Persian rugs and two of Toronto-based artist Daniel Mazzone’s collages add a Mexican flare.

On one hand, the Philippe Pasqua “Crane” sculpture, a four-and-a-half-ton skull and butterflies in white Carrara marble, blends into the dining room. On the other, “Once you notice it, you simply can’t take your eyes off it.”

NOTICE A PATTERN? Lono, Hollywood, United States The classic Tiki bar with a twist avoids party-store kitsch. Instead, Lono piles lush pattern on top of even lusher pattern, with dim lighting and Polynesian lattice. lonohollywood.com GET INSPIRED AMMO, Hong Kong At AMMO, in a former 19 th-century explosives compound, military chic is inspired by the 1965 film noir masterpiece, Alphaville. The tapas bar’s interiors use a copper luxurymeets-industrial motif. ammo.com.hk

DON’T FORGET ABOUT COMFORT Style needn’t come at the expense of comfort. Di Donato designed the sleek, curved dining-room chairs herself, right down to the Cartier-style screws. The lounge feels comfortable and casual, but it is actually designed for eating, with couches and tables all at dining height.

While design trends come and go, one rule remains steadfast: a well-designed dining room should never outshine the food, but rather add a little taste. donalfonsotoronto.com

THINK INSIDE AND OUT Zambezi House, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe Found along the Zambezi River, beneath a knot of ebony trees, Zambezi House is inspired by African markets and café life.

The interior combines pink velvet sofas, striking black-and-white portraits and African curiosities, while elephants and warthogs roam outside. zambezihouse.com boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA [ FOOD DIARIES ]

Native

renaissance Chef RICHARD FRANCIS has set out to both celebrate and reinvent Canada’s Indigenous cuisine

“B

reaking boundaries around what people think about Indigenous food, and wanting to tell my own story on a plate, that’s where I’m at right now,” Rich Francis tells me on a cell-phone call during his summer on the road “meeting the right people.” At the moment, he’s in Morley, Alberta, just off the Bow River. “I can’t remember how many times I’ve reinvented myself as a chef.”

Director of culinary operations at The Seventh Fire Hospitality Group, and a finalist during season four of Top Chef Canada, Francis might be, along with actor Graham Greene, one of the best-known people from Ontario’s Six Nations reserve.

Post walkabout, Francis plans to open a Seventh Fire in nearby Hamilton that will be a template for a possible Indigenous food franchise, a project he’ll work on while writing a cookbook for release in 2019. As a boy, Francis confesses he wasn’t much of a cook; it was something he tried when he tired of iron working. “I grew up in the Northwest Territories hunting caribou and moose. We were spoiled that way, we always had good food. Then my mom moved us to Ontario and my grandparents had a farm with cattle, chicken, pigs,” he says. “My cooking style is very much like my personality. It’s rough around the edges. But when it all comes together—when you’ve eaten my food, you know you’ve eaten it.” —PAUL GALLANT

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1. That’s an Iroquois white corn salad from my mom’s area. There’s a specific way we lie the corn with ashes, so the ashes break down the outside of the corn. It’s a technique that’s thousands of years old. It’s a really personal dish for me. A lot of time I will take a risk and try things once. I can build a dish in my head. People will have a reference for what tomato, basil and thyme taste like, but not many people have a mental reference for what Indigenous ingredients like sweetgrass, cedar, sage and tobacco will taste like on our palate.

2. That was at a food show in Toronto. The apron is from my partner at the time. She had made it for me. A lot of the floral patterns that are used are what First Nations use on their regalia for pow wows and stuff. Aprons are really personal to me. I’ve picked up a lot of them along the way. I must have a dozen, one seal skin, another that’s caribou hide.

3. That was in Sioux Lookout, Ontario, with a culinary program to introduce mostly First Nations people to basic cooking techniques, should they want to pursue it at the post-secondary level. I did a presentation. We cooked with elk and lots of local stuff from the area. What’s really awesome is when people see what’s possible with First Nation ingredients that they’ve never seen before, even our own people.

4. That’s my grandmother.

She pretty much helped raise me and my brothers. She’s where I got my work ethic and my attention to detail from. She’s an artisan herself, a renowned leather worker in the Iroquois style. People come to her from all over.

She’s in her late 80s. She has arthritis in her fingers. You look at her hands and they’ve done incredible things. She still cuts her own grass. She won’t let anybody else do it.

That’s what keeps her going.

5. I spent some time in Moose Factory, Ontario, learning about sagabon geese, how the Moose Cree would prepare their geese using sinew. They truss it with these little wooden spears and they tie it up, not like a French truss, but it in a way that has momentum to keep the geese spinning in place over the fire for hours in its own fat and juices. Then you flip it upside down and spin it again for a few hours.

What you’re left with is this crispy meat. I’ve never tasted anything like that in my life.

It’s incredible.

6. That’s Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park, B.C. I actually climbed that mountain. The mist from the falls comes from glaciers, and the water there is millions of years old. I was like a little kid, I kept going closer and closer till I was out of breath. Doing something like that makes you realize how far you’ve come.

On the top, I felt so alive. I put some tobacco down and gave thanks. It was a powerful moment by myself.

7. That’s my son Holden, who is now a culinary student in Niagara. I never pushed anything like that on my kids.

More than a year ago, he came to me and said, “Dad, I got to ask you something. I want you to show me what you know.”

It’s refreshing to see the next generation of First Nations chefs that are coming up. I never knew I’d be a person of influence in what I do. I’ll mentor him, but at the same time, I want him to find his own style, voice and vision. boldmagazine.ca

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DUNDEE, NOT SO TWEE STYLE [ WEEKENDER ]

Hanging out in front of the New V&A Dundee.

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Photos courtesy of V&A Dundee, Scotland by Š Hufton Crow

With the opening of the new V&A Museum, the Scottish city cements its reputation as a global design destination.

BY WAHEEDA HARRIS

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STYLE [ WEEKENDER ]

L

ocated on the southeast coast of Scotland on the River Tay estuary, Dundee’s reputation was, for much of its history, built on marmalade, textiles and shipbuilding.

But in the 21st century, the historic port has set its sights on leveraging the arts to lure visitors for whom a good jam isn’t quite enough. As the home of the new Victoria & Albert Dundee, which just opened this fall, it’s made a big move toward reframing the UK’s cultural scene northward.

James and Janet Keillor began the first commercial business selling marmalade in 1797, receiving ingredients from near and far thanks to the busy port, where the industrial revolution had put trade, shipbuilding and textile manufacturing at the heart of its economy. After the Victorian era, though, Dundee’s economy started to wane. Arts and technology, though, have fuelled something of a rebirth.

With Abertay University’s specialization in digital design and the University of Dundee’s Duncan of Jordanstone School of Art and Design, a burgeoning creative class has brightened the city’s economic outlook.

Local companies have given birth to some of the world’s best-known video games, such as Grand Theft Auto and Lemmings, as well as a growing community of cultural institutions like Creative Dundee, the McManus Galleries and Dundee Contemporary Arts Centre. Students now make up 20 per cent of the population, and we know how students like to be entertained. Two gin distilleries have recently opened (including Verdant Spirit Co.’s Dry Gin, chosen as the Scottish Gin of the Year in 2017) and the crowd-sourced publication 99 Things to Do and See in Dundee Guide celebrates the endless options for art festivals, recently opened clothing boutiques and new restaurants, hoping to lure locals as well as tourists out to wander the downtown streets.

Add in a $1.7-billion waterfront urban redevelopment project funded by government and private enterprise. Now all that investment has being paying off. In 2014 Dundee was designated a UNESCO City of Design, the first in the United Kingdom. Not just a marketing moniker, Dundee’s access to the Creative Cities Network has increased collaboration between local arts groups and other cities, fueling annual arts events like the NEoN Digital Arts Festival and the Festival of the Future.

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The waterfront, of course, has seen the most change, after years as an area that had been avoided by residents after industry declined. Walking there, I gaze at the boats cruising the estuary and pass by the new coffee shop/clothing boutique, Dark Grind. Next door is Hard Grind Barbershop, owned by local entrepreneur Richard Davies, who will also be opening a bar too.

The city’s latest addition is the eye-catching V&A Dundee. Located in the heart of the waterfront, the first design museum in Scotland was designed

by Japanese architectural firm Kengo Kuma & Associates and cost approximately $136 million. As the sounds of sailors and machinery have disappeared, this area’s redevelopment project is focused on bringing the locals and tourists back to the river’s edge as a place of culture. The V&A Dundee’s design was inspired by the history of the waterfront, with a building that resembles a ship about to set sail. The two-storey structure creates a framed perspective of the River Tay estuary, and the spacious interior provides unique views of the city and river, as well as an expansive space for permanent and temporary exhibitions.

With Dundee focusing on luring visitors from Edinburgh, Glasgow and farther afield, the city is betting on its growing design reputation, arts offerings and the opening of a major museum to make it a visitor hot spot in Scotland.

THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: The Scottish Design Galleries; the opening Speed and Style exhibition; a clay model of Jaguar’s I-PACE electric car; architect Kengo Kuma, an exhibit on ocean liners.

A WORLD OF SCOTTISH DESIGN SCOTTISH ARCHITECTS HAVE NOT STUCK TO THEIR NECK OF THE BRITISH ISLES. YOU CAN FIND THEIR WORK ALL AROUND THE GLOBE. THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON. The entrance of this treasured attraction was redone by Hoskins Architects, led by Gareth Dale Hoskins OBE, a graduate of the Glasgow School of Art and named Scottish Architect of the Year in 2009. vam.ac.uk KASAHARA CULTURE & AMENITY HALL, GIFU PREFECTURE, JAPAN. The Japanese-Scottish husband and wife team of Eisaku Ushida and Kathryn Findlay are noted for expressionist, postmodern and surreal styles of buildings and private residences.

THE WALDORF HILTON, LONDON. Designed by Alexander Marshall Mackenzie, this hotel opened in 1908 and showcased the Aberdeen architect’s modernist style, who received Royal patronage and built Crathie Kirk near Balmoral for the Royal family. hilton.com/London THE GATEWAY OF INDIA, MUMBAI, INDIA. The signature monument on the city’s waterfront was designed by George Wittet, who moved from Scotland to India and became a consulting architect to the Government of Bombay; he also designed the Prince of Wales Museum and Institute of Science in Mumbai.

PARLIAMENT HOUSE, WELLINGTON, NEW ZEALAND. After moving from Scotland to New Zealand, John Campbell became a government architect and was commissioned to design the parliament buildings.

This neoclassical building was completed in 1922. parliament.nz

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STYLE

[ BEAUTY ]

A

POTENT

With leading-edge skincare companies taking a serious approach to formulation, the latest serums for your skin contain astonishing ingredients

Potions

BY VAWN HIMMELSBACH

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mong all the latest beauty products to hit store shelves—sheets masks, enzyme peels and firming essences—serums are still having their moment.

And for good reason: these highly concentrated formulas are packed with active ingredients that target specific skin complaints, from hyperpigmentation to dullness, wrinkles and blemishes. In fact, serums are so potent, you only need a few drops for your entire face (applied after cleansing, but before moisturizing).

Want to zone in on those forehead creases or laugh lines? Look for a serum with peptides or retinol, which boost collagen and accelerate cellular renewal. For dehydrated skin, nothing tops hyaluronic acid (HA), which can hold more than 1,000 times its weight in water.

For breakouts—or red marks following a breakout that won’t fade away—vitamin C works wonders, and can be worn under sunscreen to combat environmental pollutants that break down collagen.

But not all serums are created equal.

The quality of a serum depends on its active ingredients, their potency, how they’re formulated and how stable those formulations are. Even packaging plays a role: Vitamin C, for example, oxidizes with exposure to light (not a good thing), so you’ll want a serum in a pump or airtight container. Keep in mind some ingredients can also irritate sensitive skin, such as retinol and vitamin C. One thing is certain: any time is a good time to start adding a serum to your skincare regime, since it helps to prevent skin deterioration while you’re still young and helps to repair damage as you age.

Here are a few of our favourites:

CHANEL’S BLUE SERUM is inspired by the world’s blue zones—regions where people live longer than average—with ingredients from bluezone diets channelled into a potent anti-aging serum. Green coffee is sourced from Costa Rica, and Chanel’s extraction process results in active antioxidant molecules that are 70 times more potent than those found in regular coffee beans. There’s also bosana olives from Sardinia with skin-fortifying polyphenols, and lentisk (an evergreen shrub) from Greece with restorative oleanolic acid.

AMOREPACIFIC’S TIME RESPONSE SKIN RESERVE SERUM uses a proprietary green tea flower oil to target wrinkles, dark spots, uneven skin and dryness. The brand takes its tea seriously—it grows and harvests its own tea leaves, and uses “dualinfusion extraction techniques” to extract amino acids and catechin to create EGCG, a potent antioxidant that targets future signs of aging.

GUERLAIN’S ABEILLE ROYALE DOUBLE R–RENEW & REPAIR SERUM does double-duty with bee products known for their anti-aging benefits. The serum is packaged in two chambers, combined upon application: one targets wrinkles and pores, the other targets loss of firmness and elasticity. The formula uses royal jelly and black bee honey sourced from France’s Île d’Ouessant, where Guerlain can guarantee its quality and traceability.

CRÈME ANCIENNE SUPREME FACE SERUM FROM FRESH uses nine exotic root and botanical extracts to smooth wrinkles and provide 24-hour hydration. These ingredients are handled with care—not in a factory, but in a Czech monastery, where the serum is crafted by hand. It’s packed with powerful extracts, such as san chi root to revitalize the skin, and echinacea to improve resilience to environmental aggressors, which can fight signs of aging.

FOR YOUR EYES ONLY Get ready to put your eye cream on the backburner. Our beauty editors have picked the top three eye serums on the market to brighten the eye area, treat puffiness and fight fine lines and wrinkles.– MARLON MORENO

Sulwhasoo Timetreasure Renovating Eye Serum (20ml, $355) The gold standard in undereye care (pun intended). This serum comes with a 24-karat gilded massage tool to help penetrate the formula deeper into the skin and to drain the area of fluid buildup. The serum itself is made with precious red pine, giving the skin around the eyes a firmer look while reducing inflammation.

The saponin components of Red Ginseng and White Ginseng reduces wrinkles and dullness around the eyes. Its lightweight texture glides seamlessly onto the skin, leaving your eye area illuminated and healthy-looking. sulwhasoo.com

Hylamide SubQ Eyes (15ml, $28) For short and longer-term visible correction of under-eye aging, puffiness, crow’s-feet and dark circles. Hylamide’s eye highstrength serum concentrate uses a wide array of peptides, plant saccharides and active technologies to rehydrate the fragile eye area below and above the surface, while targeted technologies visibly improve fine lines, crow’s feet, puffiness and dark circles. Offers results immediately, within days or weeks. thebay.com

Olay Eyes Eye Lifting Serum for Sagging Skin (15ml, $33.98) Retire your tired eyes and boost your outlook with this eye-lifting serum for sagging skin. With an advanced Amino-Peptide and vitamin complex, this eye serum’s velvety formula instantly plumps the overall eye area with hydration and reduces the appearance of under eyes bags with every use. It de-gravitizes sagging skin on eyelids and around the eyes to reflect a firmer, liftedeye look in merely two weeks. beauty.shoppersdrugmart.ca

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STYLE

[ LOCAL EXPERT ]

DUBAI DIVERSIONS BASED IN THE CITY’S FINANCIAL DISTRICT FA I R M O N T D U B A I ’ S M A R I E E L A L A N Z A N A S HAS KEPT UP WITH ALL THE CHANGES IN UA E ’ S C I T Y O F G O L D Marie Ela Lanzanas started as an operator in Fairmont Dubai in 2005 and, by 2007, had learned enough about the breadth of what the United Arab Emirates can offer that she joined the concierge team. Originally from the Philippines, the now assistant chief concierge says it took some adjustments to get used to the Arabian Gulf culture and weather. “It’s been an amazing journey. I’m enjoying my job and have some best friends here now,” she says. The booming city keeps on booming. Since Lanzanas’ arrival, the Dubai Metro, the first urban train network in the Arabian Peninsula, has opened two lines, the Dubai Tram and the Palm Jumeirah Monorail have launched and an array of new hotels, shopping malls and attractions have been built. The Metro, in particular, has been handy, as it can get Fairmont Dubai guests to landmark tourist attractions like The Dubai Mall, one of the world’s largest, and the 160-storey Burj Khalifa skyscraper, in a matter of minutes. So we just had to ask her about her favourite things in Dubai. fairmont.com/dubai —PAUL GALLANT AT T R A C T I O N At 828 metres, Burj Khalifa is the tallest building in the world, with a hotel, residences, restaurants and observation decks looking out over the city. The base is shaped like a Hymenocallis flower, which grows only in the desert. Take the At the Top, Burj Khalifa SKY tour, which includes observation decks on the 124 th 125 th and 148th floors. Your visit will take less time than you think—the elevator travels at 10 metres per second. burjkhalifa.ae L O C A L F L AV O U R S Located near the historic Meena Bazaar District, The Local House is a casual dining spot specializing in Emirati seafood, although they’re also known for their camel burger.

“I’ve tried it. It’s just like beef. It’s amazing.”

They also have camel milkshakes in several flavours, as well as camel ice cream. Its location near the Dubai Museum, not far from the creek that was the centre of Dubai life before the discovery of oil, makes it a great break in a city tour. localhousedubai.com SPLURGE Zest at One & Only The Palm. Three-star Michelin Chef Yannick Alléno fuses Middle Eastern and European cuisine in a posh atmosphere with great views. Book at least a day in advance. To make a night of it, have a drink at the One & Only Royal Mirage on the mainland, then take a boat across Palm Island Bay. oneandonlyresorts.com/one-andonly-the-palm-dubai SMART DRINK The glamorous Mercury Lounge is located on the rooftop of Four Seasons Dubai Jumeirah Beach, with views of Burj Khalifa and the Arabian Gulf. Stylish but not formal. They

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have a regular three-piece band there to make it a night to remember. Oh, and the food is amazing. Known for their Thursday “evening” brunch and Wednesday ladies night. mercurydubai.com C U L T U R A L AT T R A C T I O N The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding hosts cultural meals on at various times throughout the week. As well as getting to taste some authentic Emirati food, guests have the opportunity to ask anything about the culture and tradition in the UAE and get a better understanding of the Islamic religion. The centre also offers tours of the Bastakiya neighbourhood of the Al Fahidi Historic District and a visit to the Diwan Mosque. cultures.ae LOCAL PRODUCTS One of the city’s oldest shopping districts, Meena Bazaar is a traditional market where you can haggle for the best prices. If you’re good you can get amazing prices for local dresses or for one of the cups used to drink Arabic coffee. Perfect for souvenirs to take back home.

FA S H I O N Dubai has two annual festivals focused on shopping. At the Dubai Summer Surprise, there are six weeks of sales at all the major shopping malls, while Dubai Shopping Festival offers deals in December and January. Dubai Mall is closest to our hotel and it’s one of the biggest malls in the world, with more than 1,200 shops. It’s also where you’ll see the Dubai Fountain, which shoots water more than 152 metres in the air, against the backdrop of Burj Khalifa. thedubaimall.com

Vilebrequin Sleeveless Down jacket “Massimo Vitali” print $609 (vilebrequin.com)

STYLE

Inspired by

[ FASHION ]

Moncler Cluny Parka, $2,000 (moncler.com/ca)

ICEHOTEL

Jukkasjärvi, Sweden

Y

Clarins Anti-Eau Body Treatment Oil, 100ml, $68 (clarins.ca)

La Prairie Skin Caviar Luxe Eye Lift Cream, 20ml, $455 (holtrenfrew.com)

ICE ICE BABY!

ou travel to the land of ice and snow. In summer, the sun, like a raging fireball, never really sets; yet in winter, that same sun hovers like a shy flower barely showing her face, just at the horizon, dawn and dusk for hours on end. So far north that the Earth and the sun play a sort of duel with the moon and the light and the dark. So far north, it’s nearly 200 kilometres further than the Arctic Circle; a landscape of icy lakes and icier rivers.

One river, the Torne, is where the best conditions converge to help create an architectural marvel out of the ice and snow. In the tiny of village Jukkasjärvi, just on its banks, you will find the world’s original ICEHOTEL which has been in operation for more than two dozen years. Fed by the icy floes from the Torne River, the hotel’s structure is built entirely of the river’s ice.

Every winter, more than 200 architects, artists and builders throw their names in the hat to be part of the team that reimagines what that year’s hotel will be. It means that as a guest, you are staying in a most unique and exclusive setting; never to be built exactly the same next year. The hotel is a piece of living art, that will wax and wane with the coming and going of the sun.

Fresh air is restorative, rosy cheeks from the just-below-zero temperatures give way to warming cocktails; dog-sledding and health-boosting sauna sessions add to the adventure. And, in 2016, technology and environmental practices allowed part of the hotel to became permanent, and IceHotel365 was born— making a visit at any time of year possible.

It is also a think-tank and creative hub for more than 50 creative minds, where the ideas and plans are drawn up for many of the trendy “ice bars” you now find around the world.

And who better to help you get your chill on? We can’t help but warm to the idea. icehotel.com —VICTORIA BASS

Zara’s Brown leather weekend bag, $99 (zara.com/ca)

Sorel’s Men’s Caribou Boot, $200 (sorelfootwear.ca)

Bulova’s Precisionist Collection 98B317 $1,050 (intl.bulova.com)

Creed Discovery Fragrance Set, $275 (creedboutique.com)

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STYLE

[ GLOBETROTTER ]

A RO U N D T H E WO R L D W I T H Vi r t u o s o ’s

Matthew D. Upchurch

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B

orn into a travel-industry family, Matthew D. Upchurch’s childhood included African safaris, Europe during the holidays and an upbringing on several continents. He began his travel career in 1979 as a mail clerk at his family’s Percival Tours, a company he eventually transformed into Virtuoso, a network of top luxury travel agencies, with more than 17,500 advisors worldwide. An executive with his finger on the pulse of current and coming trends in upscale travel, Upchurch was named to the American Society of Travel Agents Hall of Fame in 2004 and the Cruise Lines International Association Hall of Fame in 2010.

Where in the world have you felt happiest?

I was born in Mexico City and spent my first 12 years there.

Something switches the moment I get back. Maybe it’s as basic as the change in language, but my national pride swells and I really love the culture, the people, its transformation to a true international city and the food, most definitely the food.

Which is your road most travelled?

My travel schedule tends to be driven by meetings, and locations where we have the highest concentration of travel agency partners and Virtuoso offices. Every year you will find me in London, Sydney, New York, Mexico City and São Paulo.

Name a place that most lived up to the hype.

I’d always heard about New Zealand’s natural beauty and I already knew that Kiwis were fun, enthusiastic and welcoming people. But when my family visited, I was not prepared for how much we would fall in love with it.

Who is your favourite travel companion?

My family are my favourite travel companions. Even places I’ve visited before become completely new again when I see them through my children’s eyes. And my wife, who is always so mindful of how our travels impact the earth, makes me a much more conscientious traveller.

Which is your favourite hotel?

I can’t answer this; it’s like picking my favourite child.

I love many of them and for different reasons.

The restaurant or dish that’s most delighted me is....

Alinea in Chicago is the single most incredible culinary experience I’ve ever enjoyed. I realize that’s a bold statement, especially considering that I’ve been fortunate enough to dine at some of the world’s best restaurants. But Alinea was not a meal, it was an experience, and one I won’t forget.

Who is the most interesting person you’ve met on your travels?

My immediate inclination was to name people who inspire me who I’ve been fortunate enough to meet during my travels, like Richard Branson. With further introspection, though, it’s the indigenous people who share their stories with me—a tribesman in Botswana, priest in Bali or a farmer in Mexico—who I find the most interesting and who have made the greatest difference in my travels.

“Everyone who’s ever travelled to

space says it has changed them”

Confession time: name one thing you’ve taken from a hotel.

I collect the key cards from each hotel. At some point, I will figure out what to do with them. Maybe an art installation.

What’s the one thing you pack for every trip?

Besides my sense of humour, which I think is essential when travelling, I pack all my various chargers. And I cannot wait for the day when I no longer have to.

What’s the one essential thing for making travel more comfortable?

This may sound self-serving given my company, but I wholeheartedly believe that having a trusted travel advisor makes all the difference in how you travel. Their guidance and expertise coupled with their relationships takes travel to a new level.

What’s your guilty pleasure while travelling?

Raiding the minibar is my favourite. Not for the alcohol, but to satisfy my sweet tooth.

What’s been your trip of a lifetime?

This is another situation where I can’t possibly name just one.

What other lifetime adventure is on your bucket list?

I am a “Founding Astronaut” with Virgin Galactic, meaning I will be one of the first 84 people to make the suborbital flight when it launches. If you allow it, travel is transformative, even when your feet stay on the ground.

Being pushed out of your comfort level forces you to learn something new. Everyone who’s ever travelled to space says it has changed them.

Which travel experience most changed your worldview and why?

My lifelong love of Africa is a product of my experiences there. Most go for the wildlife and natural beauty, both of which are available in abundance, but it’s when you encounter the people there, who are just so joyful, that you are forever changed. Africa awakens the spirit.

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EXTRAORDINARY STORIES WELL TRAVELLED

ALEXANDRA GRANT

DIGITAL INFLUENCER AND AVIONER®

STYLE AND TRAVEL Seeking a stylish, adventurous life with Avioner® and digital influencer Alexandra Grant

C

ultural exploration. Limitless adventure. Joyful discovery. Those of you who love to travel, to go beyond your borders (yet, at the same time, go deeper into your own backyard), you are a true traveller and these words are a part of your language.

And for true travellers, the need to feed your wanderlust is a part of who you are.

Taking in the sights, then going further — the history, the locals, the traditions, immersing yourself in the who, what, why and how of where you are, in the moment. A moment that will last a lifetime in your memories. The tastes, the smells, the sounds of where you are fuel the

passion for discovery of a new destination, or a more meaningful rediscovery of a timeless favourite place, somewhere you’ll return again and again. We have a name for these travellers — we call them Avioners.

One of these Avioners is Alexandra Grant, a travel and lifestyle blogger who wanders the world in search of the latest trends for her blog, To Vogue or Bust — a roadmap for the modern millennial woman who craves a stylish, adventurous life.

Her manifesto? Life isn’t just meant to be lived, it’s meant to be lived fully.

To feed her need for a stylish, adventurous life, Grant is always on the lookout for new travel destinations. “Most importantly, I’m not afraid to travel alone, so even if no one else is interested in coming I can still experience an amazing trip,” she says. “And making travel friends while alone is always so amazing.”

Born in Quebec, Grant moved to Vancouver when she was five, and lived in the Bordeaux region of France at 15 — a country that still holds a special place in her heart. So, when she quit her full-time job as a communications manager for a luxury fashion label in 2014 to pursue blogging full-time, she knew exactly where to start her adventures.

“I ended up spending so many days wandering the streets of Paris alone — which is something I suggest everyone do at least once in their lives,” she says. “It helped me appreciate the details and beauty in the everyday moments of life, because in Paris everything is more beautiful. And even being a big city, people naturally move a bit more slowly and appreciate life a bit more.”

A book by Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist Alice Steinbach, called Without Reservations: The Travels of an Independent Woman — about the author’s travel adventures in Paris — inspired Grant’s first solo venture.

Now, she always tries to include a bit of adventure in each trip. “I feel like adventure travel can be anything that gets you moving or gets your heart racing, so it’s a lot more inclusive than some people might think,” she says.

On Grant’s travel to-do list: Find the best coffee, sample the local cuisine, learn the history and “walk around as much as my feet can carry me.”

Perhaps this is what makes her blog unique — she tries not to over-research shot lists, because she wants her photography to feel organic. “It’s more about giving myself enough time to walk around and explore, knowing that the shots I want will come from that,” she says.

Bringing some of that authenticity home helps to remind her of where she’s been, whether that’s a tile from Portugal or a pair of shoes from Paris. “I keep an eye out for things that I can use on a daily basis because rather than being precious about your travel memories, it’s nice to be reminded of them more regularly and really experience your travels even at home.”

On the occasions when she is at home, Grant likes to stick to a routine: working out, spending time with her partner Matt, enjoying the outdoors in Vancouver. “I’m very routine-oriented, with an effort to keep things calm since my travel days are anything but! When I’m travelling, anything goes.”

As an Avioner, every trip featured on her blog has been powered by her Avion® card, a card that enables her to earn points on all of her purchases, and earn even more points on all her travel-related purchases. “RBC has been so supportive in navigating life so far and the financial decisions that go along with it — whether that was as a broke student, as a hustling young professional, as a prospective small business owner, and now as a full-time digital entrepreneur,” she says.

“When my life evolved to include more travel, the staff at my local branch suggested I apply for an Avion card and I quickly did, which has been so key — I didn’t know at the time how much more travel my life would have.”

Eight years ago, Grant was torn between going to law school or pursuing a passion-based path: fashion journalism (hence the name of her blog, To Vogue or Bust).

“I started the blog as a means of holding myself accountable to pursuing my career dreams and it saw me through going back to school for journalism — I was a psych grad before that — and travelling across the country to Toronto to do an internship and eventually working in media-related gigs,” she says.

For those looking to follow their own passion-based path, she recommends keeping the big-picture vision in mind, but not getting overwhelmed by it.

“Keep looking at your next step,” she says, “and be kind to yourself as you learn and evolve.”

About to take off on a trip? Tag @RBCAvion and use #Avioning to be feature on our Instagram Channel.

Avioners® Can Do That.

BOLD Partnerships

EXTRAORDINARY EXPERIENCES FEED THE NEED TO TRAVEL: Discover the people, places and experiences that make a trip unforgettable. with

Photo of Wickaninnish Inn, Tofino, by Jeremy Koreski

The Green Gate, City Palace, Jaipur, India. boldmagazine.ca

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INTO THE NEW

A

n intrepid traveller knows that in this world, there are still plenty of paths less travelled, destinations yet to be discovered by tourists.

How do we satiate our wanderlust and feed the need to travel and seek out the unknown? Of course, we’re not suggesting going to extremes. It’s more about easing into the undiscovered and using the experts to help us get there. A destination such as Jaipur, the first planned city in India, where hundreds of years of history come alive among the palaces. Travel rewards programs can help you do that. Take the RBC’s Visa Infinite‡ Avion® card, for example, as your guide to exploring the unknown: it brings the world in focus, and makes it even easier to just go.

Photos courtesy of the Raj Palace Hotel

BOLD Partnerships

BOLD Partnerships

In Jaipur, we feed the need to travel for…

The Pink City. Home to maharajas’ palaces, grand fortresses, lush gardens and serene temples. This is Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, where Mughal and Rajput architecture meet. Stand in awe at the entrance of the Hawa Mahal, known as the Palace of the Winds, and built from the pink sandstone that some say inspired the city’s nickname, spend an afternoon exploring the markets and bazaars of Jaipur and discover some of the sparkle behind this city: the craftsmanship of the jewellery designers for which Jaipur is also famous—as well as textiles, carpets and other traditional handicrafts.

The City Palace, built by the founder of Jaipur and still home to the last ruling royal family, and where they have graciously opened many sections of the palace to the public. The ceilings feature wonderfully preserved paintings; the museum showcases royal costumes, while the Maharani’s palace houses a remarkable collection of weaponry.

Later, find yourself in another kind of palace in the centre of it all: The Raj Palace, a member of Small Luxury Hotels. Here, the walls have a regal history too. Housed in a former maharaja’s palace, the hotel has been restored to reflect its glorious roots. Here, you’ll live in this history, with the intricately painted walls and golden-hued halls resplendent with original artworks and artifacts that shed light on the city’s and its citizens’ past. A dip in the pool surrounded by sculptures, fountains and gardens cool things off, then stroll the lawns through courtyards and delicately arched arcades in the footsteps of the maharaja, while taking traditional tea in the afternoon in the Royal Lounge is fortification for more exploring, this time in the hotel’s museum, where 18 th- and 19th-century antiques and crockery are on display.

Pink, also, is said to be the colour of hospitality. In the late 1800s, when the then Prince of Wales scheduled a visit to Jaipur, the Maharaja had the entire city painted pink. No doubt, the Prince of Wales blushed at the sight. Definitely, fit for a prince. https://www.slh.com/hotels/the-raj-palace-hotel/

Want to feed your need to travel? As an AVIONER® you can do that.

Discover how an RBC Avion card makes it easier to explore the places you’ve always wanted to go – or revisit a culture that’s made a difference in your life.

rbc.com/avion

SCENIC SCANDINAVIA AND ITS FJORDS • DAY 8 Sognefjord

THE REAL

EUROPE & BRITAIN 116 TRIPS. 220 CITIES. MOMENTS LIKE THIS ON EVERY ONE.

SAVE 10% WITH EARLY PAYMENT* ON 2019 EUROPE & BRITAIN TRIPS

SAVE AN ADDITIONAL $75 PER PERSON UNTIL MARCH 31, 2019.** QUOTE PROMO CODE PPBTRIPS19

*Valid on Trafalgar 2019 trips 7 days or longer for travel between January 1, 2019 and December 31, 2019. Combinable with 10% early payment discount where available. To receive early payment discount, full payment must be received by January 31, 2019. Offer is combinable with applicable brochure discounts. Not combinable with Costsaver, custom group discounts or other offers. Subject to availability and may be withdrawn at any time. Other conditions apply. **Save $ 75 off per person on 2019 Europe and Britain Trips. Combinable with early payment discounts where applicable. Not combinable with Costsaver or custom groups. Subject to availability and may be withdrawn at any time. Other conditions apply.

Exclusive offer valid until March 31, 2019. Quote promo code PPBTRIPS19

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DEPARTURES EXPLORE. DISCOVER. EXPERIENCE. INDULGE.

BOLD Partnerships

Be our Guest

We know what gets you excited about travel: authentic and off-thebeaten-path experiences, personal interaction with the locals, the thrill of the unexpected. But we also know that making those things happen isn’t always so easy.

Inspired by the way our editors travel, we’re introducing a new series of guided experiences, BOLD JOURNEYS, in partnership with TRAFALGAR, a leading premium travel company known for providing insider access and memorable experiences.

On the following pages are 10 trips spanning the globe. From Japan to Australia to our home and native land, Canada—our destination ideas cover all continents and types of travel experiences.

Read on for a snapshot of the itineraries. For full day-by-day outlines, promotional codes and how to book, go to tours.boldmagazine.ca/trafalgar or call 1.800.352.4444

boldmagazine.ca

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I

magine standing among the history and the ruins of Rome. Or gazing in a zen moment over the temples of Japan. How about being immersed in the natural flora and fauna of Costa Rica? Even the down-east hospitality that proves there’s no place like home, right here in Canada can have a magical effect on your imagination. Travel, exploration, discovery—now’s the time to take that step that’s beyond your imagination, and just go.

That’s what’s hot now.

Looking for more inspiration? Trafalgar has created a top-10 list, among the travel company’s more than 300 itineraries around the globe—yes, we said more than 300—of some of the most popular and enriching guided holidays and destinations you can imagine. Intimate experiences, such as the company’s Be My Guest and Connect with the Locals programs, set the tone for the unique. With Trafalgar, travellers really are the “guests,” in locals’ homes, farms and even castles, where you might go behind the scenes at a historic brewhouse, get up-close-and-personal with award-winning thoroughbred horses or even climb a private staircase in the Vatican. You’ll have the chance to live in history, too: Hotels are chosen for culturally significant architecture and storied locations. Add the hands-on, groupbuilding fun lead by engaging local specialists and top-notch travel directors (think of it as having the luxury of an on-trip concierge), and you’ll find the fostering of like-minded spirit among Trafalgar’s guests is the happy side-effect. You’re bound to learn a thing or two about the culture, and make a few lifelong friends along the way.

LENGTH 7 NIGHTS, 8 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $2,395

The Natural Wonder of

Costa Rica

Volcanic vistas, verdant jungles and stretches of sand are what make Costa Rica a diamond in the rough. But even the rough is unspoiled. Therapeutic waters springing from the volcano, fresh air kissing the palms as it passes, a canopy of green treetops providing shelter from the sun. Sprawling haciendas are the ranches of Central America, where cattle and horses roam, and where the locals welcome you into their home. Cocoa plantations give fruit that makes some of the sweetest chocolate in the world and tender hearts of palm are plentiful.

In Monteverde, immerse yourself in the Cloud Forest Reserve, where, among one of Earth’s most pristine rainforests, you will discover some of the world’s most diverse plants and wildlife, including a cacophony of prehistoric ferns, exotic orchids, majestic jaguars and rainbow-hued birds. But it goes beyond the eco adventure. There is a human history in this place, and the Quakers were among the first to recognize this paradise is precious, and at risk. They took steps to preserve the rainforests and protect the environment by creating the country’s first nature reserve.

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ITINERARY: Costa Rica Eco Adventure End Liberia DATE OF DEPARTURE: 19 January 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Indulge in gourmet chocolate made from the world’s best cacao beans. Visit a Tico family’s palm plantation to learn about and sample the delicate heart of palm.

CONNECT WITH LOCALS: Join Don Alberto and Doña Ana Quintana for a traditional Costa Rican lunch at their Hacienda Pozo Azul, a 2,000-acre working ranch, and discover how they reduce their carbon footprint and support the local economy.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking

The Legends of

Peru

The mystery of the Incas, the sacred ruins of Machu Picchu and the hillsides of the Andes dotted with llama, alpaca and vicuna. Artisan traditions, such as the weavers who carry on the age-old techniques and pass them to the next generation, can be seen in the fabrics resplendent with brightly coloured patterns.

Meet the friendly people at the outdoor markets where you can sample local cuisine, and shop for fresh seafood, fruits and vegetables to get acquainted with Peruvian life. Ride the rails on an iconic journey, where the train takes you to time-worn places still revered as hallowed, and where you can witness the remains of ancient civilizations so advanced, their achievements still boggle the mind. Explore Cusco, where terraces of Incan ruins preside over colonial architecture; then live in the now in Lima, Peru’s lively capital city, where pre-columbian art and history mixes with the New World colonialism and the modern, skyscraping skyline, which hugs the seaside cliffs with spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean.

LENGTH 7 NIGHTS, 8 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $3,175

ITINERARY: Highlight of Peru DATE OF DEPARTURE: 5 January, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Visit a local market with a young chef and enjoy a special lunch at his cooking school.

CONNECT WITH LOCALS: Visit Awakancha to see where delicate alpaca, llama and vicuna wool is sourced from, and discover how local families are taught to preserve ancient weaving techniques from a fascinating Quechua scholar.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking

Remarkable

LENGTH 8 NIGHTS, 9 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $5,195

Japan

From the bright lights of Tokyo to the zen of Kyoto, Japan is a fascinating study in contrasts and continuity. One of the most enduring on Earth, the Japanese culture is imbued with propriety, aesthetics and respect. Ancestral traditions are passed down from generation to generation, the art of peaceful zen wellness, of porcelain and paper making, even the art of sushi.

Everything is for beauty, for the art of perfection and presentation. The meticulously lacquered walls of the temples of Kyoto reflect the sun; bright reds, oranges and golds only rival those found in some of the most beautiful and verdant gardens in the world, where one can truly be one with nature in extraordinarily cared-for surroundings.

Experience the world of the Geisha, their music and their makeup. Hike the foothills around Mount Fuji, Japan’s indomitable peak, which pierces the horizon like a snow-

tipped arrow. And get lost in Tokyo, among its skyscrapers and the noodle bars. Visit the Imperial Palace, where one of the world’s most fascinating monarchies still hold court, make peace at a Buddhist temple and finish with a satisfying sip of sake. Kanpai!

ITINERARY: Splendours of Japan DATE OF DEPARTURE: 6 January, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Sample Japanese sake during a walking tour in the Edo-style streets of Takayama Old Town. Learn how local artisans make Japanese washi paper in the UNESCO village of Gokayama.

CONNECT WITH LOCALS: Enjoy a Kaiseki (a traditional multi-course Japanese meal) at a traditional Japanese ryokan home near Kyoto, while you learn about local customs.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking boldmagazine.ca

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LENGTH 9 NIGHTS, 10 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $3,095

The Beauty of

Britain & Ireland

The legends of United Kingdom and Ireland run deep. From the romance of King Arthur to the faithful following in the footsteps of St. Patrick, the history of these isles permeates our imaginations and sparks our wanderlust. Ancestry, whether familial or just ingrained in the DNA of being a part of the Commonwealth, gives an added appeal to exploring England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland—as well as the Republic of Ireland. With one foot in Europe, the other in lore so rich it informs our own history, these countries beguile and delight.

London, the capital of cool, is only the start.

Dig deeper into Welsh culture and discover a winemaking region while feasting on the local bounty; feel the magic as you stand among the monoliths at Stonehenge; and watch fire turn to crystal in Waterford. The birthplace of Shakespeare, the countryside inspiration for Jane Austen and the haunts of Roald Dahl are just a few pages in this place. Edinburgh Castle, the centre of Belfast, Yorkminster—you don’t have to imagine if these walls could talk. From Glasgow to Dublin, these storytelling isles will fill your memories with a lifetime of tales.

ITINERARY: Britain and Ireland Highlights DATE OF DEPARTURE: 25 October, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Admire Ireland’s finest thoroughbreds at the Irish National Stud Farm.

CONNECT WITH LOCALS: Enjoy a hearty Welsh dinner with a farming family and their animals in the beautiful award-winning vineyards of Wales.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking

La Dolce Vita of

Italy

“First we eat, then we do everything else....”

LENGTH 12 NIGHTS, 13 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $3,595

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Food, of course, is the first thing that comes to mind when many of us think of Italy. It is also a world of wonders—Rome and the mind-boggling engineering of the Colosseum, the testament to faith that is the basilica of St. Mark’s in Venice, the lasting monument of a civilization that is Pompeii and, of course, The Vatican.

But Italy is so much more. It is the beauty of artisans still practicing ancient trades such as hand-blown glass, the romance of Romeo and Juliet and Verona, the sparkling waters off the isle of Capri.

And, yes, it is the food. Glorious, and even more so when a meal is taken in a family-run restaurant where mama still cooks in the kitchen; it is sipping a local vintage in the very vineyard surrounding

the walled city of San Gimignano, where that grape has been grown; it’s the sweet taste of indulging in gelato while tossing a coin in the Trevi Fountain. You will be saying ciao, Italia, again before you know it.

ITINERARY: Best of Italy DATE OF DEPARTURE: 27 October, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Ascend the spiral staircase designed by Donato Bramante, in a part of the Vatican not open to the public.

BE MY GUEST: Join Signor Telli for an exclusive dinner at his family-run restaurant on the scheduled Isola Madre Island.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* VALID UNTIL: March 31, 2019 QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking.

European The Grand

Tour

LENGTH 9 NIGHTS, 10 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $2,725

From London to Lucerne, the grand capitals of Europe are full of sights to be seen. From Big Ben to Buckingham Palace, London’s regal nature is hard to resist. In Paris, the City of Light, stroll like a Parisian in the French capital along the Champs-Élysées to l’Arc du Triomphe, and marvel at the Notre Dame Cathedral after a stop at a sidewalk café for a coffee and a croissant. The French countryside, with its vineyards and its battlefields, is worthy of exploration. The Romans left a mark throughout Europe, but it is in their namesake city where their influence still flourishes. Everything is useful and beautiful; design is appreciated and respected. From flowing fountains of spring water that still comes from the surrounding mountains to the stunning architecture of Bernini and Bramante, the Eternal City is a testament to faith and beauty. In Florence, the Renaissance period comes to life through art, architecture and daily life. The streets are filled with the ghosts of Medici, Michelangelo and da Vinci. Through the European Alps, to Lucerne, where the warmth of the Swiss welcomes you as sweetly as the world-famous and delicious chocolate for which Switzerland is known.

ITINERARY: European Traveller DATE OF DEPARTURE: 16 December, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Enjoy the elegance of yesteryear and sweeping lake vistas in Lucerne at the Grand Hotel Europe, where warm Swiss hospitality and a grand past spanning over a century guarantee an unforgettable stay.

CONNECT WITH LOCALS: Indulge in delicious Italian flavours and the hearty hospitality of a local family READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking. boldmagazine.ca

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The Lands Down Under

LENGTH 20 NIGHTS, 21 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $11,450

A trek to Australia and New Zealand should include at least two things: one, a chance to delve into these islands’ Aboriginal and Maori cultures and, two, time spent with the locals. Both these countries are completely unique from each other. Go walkabout in the Australian outback. Alice Springs gives way to Ayers Rock, but the original landowners here call it Uluru, the Red Centre.

And it is—the centre of the Outback, and the centre of a spiritual energy. The dark sky is a riot of constellations; there’s no light pollution here. Of course, the city is also the centre—we can’t skip the Sydney Opera House or the sight of the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

In New Zealand, the landscape defies definition. On the South Island, navigate winding fjords that carve their way to where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific reach toward Antarctica and marvel at the heights of the snow-capped Southern Alps—you might recognize this place from The Lord of the Rings. It’s fantasy meets Mother Nature at her fantastical best. On the North Island, experience the warm Kiwi hospitality, and get a greater understanding of how the Maori and European cultures have created a distinctive, modern-day way of life. G’day mate!

Hawaiian Island Hopping

Pure sunshine. Beaches worth combing.

Waves worth catching. A culture clash that seems to work seamlessly. Sound good? This is only part of the alluring Aloha spirit of the Hawaiian Islands. Polynesian vibes integrate with American modernity, while everyone and everything is touched by nature. Sure, we think we know Honolulu and Waikiki, but do we? A chance to go deeper into trendsetting Oahu is in order, but a trip to Pearl Harbor reminds us that even in paradise we must remember our past to inform our future. Meanwhile, on Kauai, the ancient canyons, dubbed The Grand Canyon of the Pacific, gives a clarity of the depth of time.

The big island, Hawaii, is home to an active volcano, turning this natural spectacle into a spectacular spectator sport, as lava flows etch their way over the island’s surface.

Of course, the Aloha spirit also comes from its people, whose easy-going attitude

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pairs perfectly with a unique reverence for the land and the sea—where farmers cultivate some of the world’s richest coffee and surfers take on the waves, just as their ancestors did before them. Mahalo!

ITINERARY: Hawaii Four Island Adventure Moderate DATE OF DEPARTURE: 06 December, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Delve into the vibrant sugar-cane heritage of Kauai during a visit to Grove Farm Sugar Plantation, then see “The Grand Canyon of the Pacific.”

CONNECT WITH LOCALS: Meet Ancil for an educational farm-to-fork experience and help gather fresh produce for your al fresco lunch, and learn more about bio-dynamic farming.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking

ITINERARY: Highlights of Australia and New Zealand DATE OF DEPARTURE: 11 August, 2019 HIGHLIGHTS: Discover the stunning heart of the Red Centre from the Desert Gardens Hotel, Ayers Rock, and experience the natural beauty of this unique landscape.

The hotel offers incredible views of towering gums, flowering native shrubs and glowing red dunes.

BE MY GUEST: In New Zealand’s North Island, join the O’Sullivans for lunch at the Red Barn on their Waikato farm.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE PPBTRIPS19 when booking.

LENGTH 12 NIGHTS, 13 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $5,950

Iberian Peninsula

Traversing the LENGTH 12 NIGHTS, 13 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $3,050

The wine, the food, the fiery culture. The land of explorers and torreodors, rugged Atlantic coastlines and Mediterranean seascapes and the oldest capital in Europe. This is Spain and Portugal, two countries bound by a geography and religion, yet unbridled by language and lifestyle. Both lands with a history of exploration, yet today, it is travellers from other parts of the globe that seek out the traditions and heritage which make these countries a must-visit. From Spain’s Valencia, where the paella is perfect, to Seville, where the sounds of flamenco and the fragrance of orange blossoms infuses the air, to Granada, the last stronghold of the Moors— and where their influence is still evident, with flowing water fountains and colourful tiled courtyards. Onward to Portugal and its sunny Algarve southern coast, with stretches of beaches, to Lisbon, Europe’s oldest capital city, with its black and white mosaic sidewalks and cool café culture. The melancholy strains of Fado singers permeate the night air, stories of devotion not unlike those of the pilgrims, who continue to make their way to Fátima, where tales of miracles still inspire.

ITINERARY: Highlights of Spain and Portugal DATE OF DEPARTURE: 10 November, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Sample the famous sherry traditional in the southern Spanish city of Jerez, which has been making wine since the 7 th century.

BE MY GUEST: Saddle up for a superb stud farm visit, the tragic story of unrequited love and a traditional home-cooked lunch with Tiago and Vera in Portugal’s beautiful Alentejo.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking

The Atlantic

Canadian Way

There’s no place like home, and this is the perfect time to explore our own backyard.

Canada is blessed with incredible mountains, coastlines that just don’t quit and a worldfamous friendliness that’s at its hearty best in the Maritimes. The Down East flavours, from ocean-fresh lobster to just-harvested PEI potatoes add a homey touch to just about everything. The people are some of the most welcoming in the world, and celebrate age-old traditions, from music and dancing to mastering the brew and being the home of our country’s constitution. Halifax, the storied gateway for much of the 19thand 20th-century immigration, showcases our doors-open-to-the-world view, while Charlottetown has us falling in love with Anne of Green Gables all over again. Peggy’s Cove, Hopewell Rocks, the Cabot Trail—the coast and the sea beyond draws us, where whales play and the fishermen battle the

LENGTH 10 NIGHTS, 11 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $4,395

elements to bring us the daily catch. Where Gaelic culture, education and language is alive and well, and where the likes of Alexander Keith created one of Canada’s most revered brews, and Alexander Graham Bell, who linked the world with his telephone invention, made Nova Scotia his home.

ITINERARY: Enchanting Canadian Maritimes DATE OF DEPARTURE: 1 June, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Live in a piece of Canadian history—Stay at the legendary Lord Nelson Hotel and Suites, the most historic hotel in Halifax, and at the Rodd Charlottetown, an historic icon built in 1931.

BE MY GUEST: Revel in local hospitality—Meet the owners of the PEI Preserve Company, who will host a delicious dinner of local cuisine.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking

Print offer terms and conditions: Save $75 off per person on 2019 Europe and Britain Trips.

Combinable with early payment discounts where applicable. Not combinable with Costsaver or custom groups. Subject to availability and may be withdrawn at any time. Other conditions apply.

Quote promo code PPBTRIPS19. CALL 1.800.352.4444 boldmagazine.ca

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ON THIS SPREAD: Living embraced by nature; working in the taro patch.

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Bungalow and palm trees by Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA) / AJ Feducia. Men work in a loi (taro patch) by Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA) / Mark Kushimi

The Tao

of Poi

You don’t have to attend a luau or learn the hula to revel in Hawaiian food and culture, writes PAUL GALLANT, after eating his way across O‘ahu and Kaua‘i

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ON THIS SPREAD: Coastal view of Kaua‘i; a feast of poi, kalua pig, sweet potato and lomi salmon; tossing a net for shrimp.

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tanding in a deep green and drizzle-damp grove on the east coast of O‘ahu, Taylor Kellerman picks a yellow gourd-like cacao pod and opens it up to reveal a pulpy white stack of cacao beans. We nibble.

Not quite the full chocolate experience, but not bad. In his green flowered shirt, jeans and black baseball cap, Kellerman exudes Richie Cunningham all-American enthusiasm for every bit of flora and fauna we come across. He grew up 10 miles down the road and as director of diversified agriculture and land stewardship at Kualoa Ranch Private Nature Reserve, this is, he says, his dream job.

Though the reserve is probably best known for its movie-themed tours— most recently the King Kong, Jumanji and Jurassic World sequels have been shot against its dramatic prehistoric-meets-fairy-tale landscape—at the moment I’m less interested in raptors and giant apes than in the foodie adventures to be found on the 1,600-hectare property. We visit shrimp and oyster ponds, and survey fields of bananas, breadfruit, papaya and taro, before sitting down to a lunch where the seafood, beef and salad are all produced within walking distance—or at least within horse-riding or zip-lining distance. As I pluck a fresh oyster from its iced bowl, I can reasonably wonder if Kui’ipo McCarty, the ranch’s self-described “Oyster Maiden” who I met earlier in the day, might have handled it herself.

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Of course, it’s not like anything’s far away on any of Hawaii’s islands. Yes, the eight main islands themselves are far flung, sprawling more than 2,400 kilometres across the South Pacific; when the Kilauea volcano went off on the Big Island this summer, it was business as usual everywhere else. But the islands themselves are compact and, outside Honolulu, still quite rural. There’s a small-town vibe even in the most cosmopolitan of moments, though it can’t be entirely attributed to the pastoral landscapes and Hawaii’s isolated location on the globe. The aloha spirit, that “joyfully sharing life” ethic of Polynesian culture that shows up in every hello and goodbye, is also what makes the Rainbow State such an easy and intimate destination. It’s also an astonishingly delicious one.

Though its climate and soil make the islands conducive to growing a wide variety of food—pineapples and chickens are seemingly everywhere—Hawaii imports an estimated 90 per cent of what it eats. Kualoa Ranch’s clever blend of farming, tourism and entertainment has been one strategy to increase the state’s food security in an era when land is, for better or worse, more valuable when it’s developed for tourism. “We’re

hoping to revitalize the industry through agritourism,” Kellerman tells me.

It’s a worthy mission. With a truly multicultural society—people of various Asian backgrounds make up about 37 per cent of the population, native Hawaii/Polynesian making up six per cent, along with people who identify as white and black—you could argue that food, along with aloha, is what makes a Hawaiian Hawaiian.

It’s wrong-headed to be purist about it. Each wave of arrivals has brought their preferred flavours with them. Poi, a yoghurt-textured dish that goes with pretty much anything, is made from taro, which was brought to Hawaii around 450 A.D. Pineapples weren’t planted here till 1813. Poke, a dish of seasoned chunks of raw fish that’s a cross between sushi and ceviche, didn’t take off in its current form until the 1970s. The hot-weather treat of shave ice is found all over the Americas, but rarely with the ubiquity and variety of flavours found here. It was food, along with a little hula, that gave Hawaii its current modern form and it’ll be food that carries the state into its future. Having some of the most beautiful landscapes in the world is certainly a virtue, but stomach satisfaction can’t be ignored.

O‘AHU AND KAUA‘I ESSENTIALS STAY Located on the fringe of Kapiʻolani Regional Park, walking distance from the bustling surf-and-shop strip of Waikiki, New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel is just the right mix of central and peaceful. Right on the beach, as is its popular Hua Tree Lanai restaurant. The ocean-front suites are huge and comfy, but if you get one, you’ll spend most of your time out on the terrace looking at the views. kaimana.com With all the chic you expect from a Four Seasons property, but with an unbuttoned beachside attitude, the Ko Olina hotel is on a beautiful resort campus about 30 minutes outside of Honolulu, on O‘ahu wilder west coast. Although kids will love the calm waters of the Kohola Lagoon, the adult pool is a godsend for those craving a quiet retreat.

Chef Michael Mina presides over Mina’s Fish House, which has its own fish sommelier to guide you through the day’s catches, but the biggest revelation is chef Ryo Takatsuka’s Japanese-Italian cuisine at the elegant Noe restaurant. fourseasons.com/oahu On Kaua‘i, the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa is perfect for some beachside chill time. The grounds are carefully demarked, with a lazyriver pool winding through the playful side of the property, while ponds and bridges provide something of a labyrinth on the more serene side.

For those who want to explore beyond the grounds, the Maha‘ulepu Heritage Trail is accessible from the beach. kauai.grand.hyatt.com boldmagazine.ca

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n the La Hiki Kitchen at Four Seasons Ko Olina, on O‘ahu’s west coast, Simeon Hall, Jr. is whipping up a batch of icefiltered chicken soup. “I cook with local ingredients using global techniques that my grandmother would still recognize,” he says, pouring the clear broth over the braised vegetables, crispy chicken and—why not?—pink flowers in my bowl. Hall arrived at the Four Seasons in November 2017 from his native Bahamas and brought a Bahamian eclecticism to kitchen, including more pickles and preserves on the menu. His dishes are beautiful and flavourful, but never fussy; the sandals-and-shorts sensibility translates easily from the Caribbean to the Pacific. “I have been training staff to better know the story behind the food. We’ve visited farms, producers,” he says.

In his own way, Hall is adding another layer to the very elastic concept of Hawaiian cuisine. When the first settlers arrived—possibly from the Marquesas Islands around 300 A.D., though there is much debate about this—they brought an estimated 30 species of plants with them, including taro. Breadfruit, bananas, coconut and sweet potatoes followed, as did chicken, pigs and dogs. But it was the introduction of sugarcane that most fundamentally reshaped the economy and the population of the islands.

The sugar plantations that sprung up in the 1800s required lots of labour,

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with workers being imported from China, Japan, Korea, the Philippines and Portugal (the latter group brought with them a penchant for malasadas, yeastleavened doughnuts usually rolled in sugar, with them). Many of the labourers stayed, some marrying Native Hawaiians, helping establish Hawaii’s unique population mix. By 1950, sugar was the foundation of the economy.

Hawaii’s last sugar operation shut down in 2016.

Modern agriculture has had to become more boutique-y. Mostly. Kauai Coffee, established in 1987 on land that was once the McBryde Sugar Company, is Hawaii’s largest coffee grower and, because Hawaii is the only coffee-growing state, the largest coffee grower in the U.S. You can see the fields of coffee plants along the road to the mosaic of national reserves and parks established to protect the unworldly cliffs and canyons of the north of Kaua‘i.

The estate is one of the few flat parts of the island.

Kaua‘i, even more than O‘ahu, brings Hawaii’s small-town heart to the foreground. Towns and resort areas hug the coast and are mostly in the southeast, while the centre and the northwest of the island are dominated by green and red sharp-edged geological marvels, kept pristine by public and private efforts.

THIS SPREAD: Coastal view of Kaua‘i; a feast of poi, kalua pig, sweet potato and lomi salmon; tossing a net for shrimp.

O‘AHU AND KAUA‘I ESSENTIALS EAT For your first (or your most memorable) taste of poi and other traditional Hawaiian fare and local food, visit the venerable Highway Inn in Honolulu. The menu is peppered with classics like moco, kālua pig and cabbage, or steamed ‘uala. myhighwayinn.com The owners of Hawai‘i’s Favorite Kitchens sourced the state’s best recipes, many from family-run businesses that sadly no longer exist. With a jaw-dropping selection of poke, and a barbecue chicken plate meant to stick to your ribs, keep in mind that the portions are not dainty. Especially the cones of shave ice. hawaiisfavoritekitchens.com One of the most refined dining experiences in the state, Chef Mavro earned a prestigious James Beard award for his Provence take on Hawaiian cuisine. Born George Mavrothalassitis in Marseilles, France, the chef buys his fish one by one from local dealers. His awardwinning onaga baked in a salt crust, sometimes served by the chef himself, is a true show-stopper, though the wine list also turns heads. chefmavro.com Gaylord’s, the restaurant at Kaua‘i’s 42-hectare Kilohana agri-tourism estate, gets many of its ingredients from the property’s sustainable farm.

The historic home makes for an atmospheric dining experience, but you might want to get yourself a table in the charming courtyard, where you can watch the local chickens strut their stuff. kilohanakauai.com

At the National Tropical Botanical Garden, not far from the Kauai Coffee estate, the carefully tended fauna is meant for the eye, not the tongue—though lots of it looks good enough to eat. Its founder, Robert Allerton, was born into a rich Chicago family, but fancied himself an impressionist artist, then a philanthropist and art collector and, if local legend is true, a party host to contend with. In 1928, with partner John Gregg, Allerton purchased the gorgeous property that eventually became the notfor-profit institution, and started building a series of dreamy outdoor “rooms” furnished with exotic plants, sculptures and water features.

Even the drive in is impressive, with over-thecliff views of a cozy beach where Allerton’s former residence is located. The hike around is not too taxing, but I’m glad when we arrive in the cool bamboo grove, where the thick stems provide shade.

The view of Lawai Stream is serene, though I’m told that locals do fish the stream in season. When everything is in balance, paradise is a feast for the eyes, the soul and the stomach.

DO Though it’s possible to hike into Kaua‘i’s spectacular 1,060-metre Nāpali cliffs (oops, that’s redundant— “Nāpali” means “the cliffs”), the best views are from the water. Hop a Holo-Holo Charters boat tour out of Port Allen to spend a few hours being mesmerized by the scenery. The Snorkel Sail lets you hop out of the 50-foot catamaran to check out the sea life. holoholokauaiboattours.com To get a sense of how much beauty is packed into Kaua‘i, and to see the incomparable Nāpali coast from another perspective, indulge in a 60-minute helicopter tour to see peaks and waterfalls that can’t be seen any other way. safarihelicopters.com It’s hard to get a grip on Hawaii’s eccentric history— and the relationship between the state and the rest of the U.S.—without a tour of the ‘Iolani Palace, home of Hawaii’s last ruling monarchs, King Kalakaua and his sister and successor, Queen Liliuokalani. Founded in 1882, the monarchy was overthrown just 11 years later. The palace served as the capitol for almost 80 years until it was vacated and restored in the 1970s. iolanipalace.org boldmagazine.ca

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HOPPING THROUGH PARADISE Off the coast of South Australia, the kangaroos, wallabies and seals easily outnumbers the locals

BY SARAH TRELEAVEN

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hen a representative from Exceptional Kangaroo Island comes to pick me up from the island’s tiny Kingscote airport, he certainly looks the part. He is tall and broad, wearing a pair of faded jeans and a wide-brimmed hat that conjured up images of crouching behind scrub on a wide-open savannah in anticipation of watching a pod of wallabies hop by.

As it turns out, that’s pretty much the plan. Kangaroo Island, located just off the coast from Adelaide, in the Great Australian Bight, has long been known for spectacular natural beauty. With wildly diverse topography—from dramatic cliffs that plunge into bright blue water and grassy savannahs to massive limestone caves—the island feels both exotic and enticing. There’s also an abundance of amazing wildlife, from kangaroos to sea lions and spiky little echidnas. Shortly into my visit, I glanced up at a tree in a eucalyptus forest and glimpsed a fluffy koala bear dozing in the midday heat.

But Kangaroo Island is starting to develop a different reputation, thanks to the remarkable—and growing— local food scene, where you can tour a sheep farm before sampling their exquisite cheeses, or wade into the clear waters before shucking a perfect oyster. And over the course of my 48-hour stay, I am shown the best of the island through wildlife spotting and gourmet sampling.

Our first stop is Clifford Honey, a 23-year-old beekeeping family business. I meet Sharon Simons, the founder’s daughter, who explains that her father initially kept Ligurian bees (found only in Italy and on Kangaroo Island) as a hobby, which later grew into a business.

“Ligurian bees are much less aggressive and they’re great producers,” says Simons. “They’re the perfect bee.” We tour the modest farm, sampling honey and walking through the various stages of production, and then stopped in the gift shop for honey-flavoured popsicles.

During my stay, I have many similarly intimate experiences, meeting owners and getting up-close tours of how things work. Kangaroo Island is a generous landmass, but small in population; there are only about 4,500 people spread across a little more than 4,400 square kilometres. One local told me that the island was so small that it lacks an abattoir, so all of the pigs and sheep raised there have to be sent to the mainland, a 45-minute ferry ride away, for butchering.

For a long time, wool was the primary business, but the crash in wool prices in the 1980s forced a diversification that has yielded much of the agricultural bounty visible today. A strong sense of community remains, as does a pride in making the most of the island’s natural riches.

The abundant environment is what lured Amanda Rowe to the island, where she now runs the Oyster Farm Shop. Previously working in IT in Adelaide, Rowe “wanted to raise my children free range.” She now farms more than 50,000 oysters per year in picturesque patches that sit in the clear blue waters near the Port of Pelicans. In a shed just a few feet from the water’s edge, Amanda plucks a fresh oyster from a basket and quickly shucks it. I take the shell and let the briny oyster hit my tongue. It’s crisp, slightly sweet and completely perfect.

Wildlife in Kangaroo Island is everywhere. On the way to lunch, we drive by flocks of black swans endemic to the island, and I scan the scrub brush alongside the winding single-lane highway in search of wallabies and echidnas. And I take in the spectacular scenery as we drive past eucalyptus forests and grassy savannahs, taking sharp turns that revealed plunging cliffs, white sand beaches and cresting deep blue waves.

OPENING SPREAD: An unexpected visitor seems to enjoy the sunset near Kangaroo Island’s Middle River.

OPPOSITE PAGE: The waves come crashing in on Snelling Beach.

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“A pristine white sand beach is framed by plunging cliffs and populated by dozens of seals—including fluffy little pups”

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am already overwhelmed by the island’s beauty, but when we arrive at Sunset Food & Wine for a late lunch, I am astounded all over again. The small, open-air restaurant is perched on a hillside overlooking a beautiful bay on the island’s northeastern coast. I lingered over a superb array of highly local food and drink: a light rosé from one of the island’s small wineries; freshly baked sourdough with peppery wild olive oil; oysters with mignonette granita; King George whitefish with crisp asparagus; and soft gnocchi paired with crisp, deeply rich mushrooms. As I eat, birds flit around the bushes surrounding the patio. It’s the kind of view and food that makes you want to run away to an island paradise full of olive trees and Italian bees.

The next morning, I wake early and quickly drink a mug of coffee as I try to keep from being flooded with excitement. I am looking forward to seeing Flinders Chase National Park, a showcase of the island’s spectacular rugged coastline, and intrigued by the idea of visiting Remarkable Rocks, massive and weather-sculpted granite boulders jutting out of the ocean. But I am particularly eager to get to Seal Bay Conservation Park, home to more than 1,000 Australian sea lions.

Once we arrive, I walk to the end of a long wooden boardwalk and the most amazing view comes into sight: A pristine white sand beach framed by plunging cliffs and populated by dozens of visible seals—including fluffy little pups, some as close as 10 feet from where I was standing— sunning themselves and frolicking in the bright blue surf. I ease myself onto the sand, mesmerized to the point of being near-frozen, and simply watch the scene slowly unfold.

But the tour isn’t over quite yet. We have lunch under a white canopy in the middle of the bush, where my guide grills potatoes and fresh-caught fish, and prepares a salad that he serves along with a perfectly crisp local white wine.

When we finish, there is yet another surprise in store: We drive further into the bush, eventually stopping in a clearing. My guide, the wide brim of his hat pulled low over his brow, opens the truck and pulls out a table, two chairs, a thermos, some homemade cookies and a starched white tablecloth.

And there we sit, eating biscuits and drinking tea in the shade, as kangaroos gradually materialize before my eyes: lying under nearby bushes, hopping past with tiny joeys crammed into their pouches and stopping to raise their charming little faces to the warm late afternoon sun. It’s both a magical moment and a perfectly fitting way to end my Kangaroo Island adventure—where sunshine and simple pleasures meet wild, untamed and oftenunexpected delights.

KANGAROO ISLAND ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE There are flights to Kangaroo Island from Adelaide (very short), Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane. A ferry connects the island to Cape Jervis, which is about an hour and a half drive outside Adelaide. rex.com.au

STAY The ultra-luxe Southern Ocean Lodge offers secluded accommodations perched on the edge of a dramatic cliff. Top notch food and guided island excursions are often included. southernoceanlodge.com.au

EAT Sunset Food & Wine is the ultimate gourmet experience on Kangaroo Island. Enjoy expertly prepared local produce like wild olive oil and fresh seafood while taking in a breathtaking view. sunsetfoodandwine.com

DO Try one of the tours by Exceptional Kangaroo Island, who offer itineraries that run from food safaris to wilderness adventures. exceptionalkangarooisland.com

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ON THIS PAGE: A room with a view of coastal wilderness at Southern Ocean Lodge; oyster time; Vivonne Bay Jetty.

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A decidedly

FRENCH

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CONNECTION Closer to St. John’s than Paris, Saint-Pierre and Miquelon prides itself as much on its pâtisseries as its stunning landscapes, reports JENNIFER BAIN

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THERE’S A LANGUID RHYTHM TO SAINT-PIERRE THAT STARTS AT DAWN, when the boulangerie-pâtisseries throw open their doors to people seeking baguettes and cardboard boxes neatly stacked with warm croissants, brioche and bichon au citron, my new favourite puff pastry turnover filled with lemon curd. By 8am, I am buying local craft beer and foie gras at a corner grocer to take back to Canada.

Life speeds up between 10 and noon when Saint-Pierrais head to work as visitors admire the stone cathedral and browse shops full of French perfume, chocolate and wine that are open only until locals head home for a two-hour family lunch. Le Lab 97 is a good place to relax until things reopen.

The non-profit cultural café has taken over a warehouse used during Prohibition to stock crates of Canadian liquor destined for America by rum runners.

“Totally legally, for 11 years from 1922 to 1933, Saint-Pierre became the biggest alcohol warehouse of Canada,” confides guide Eric Simon from l’Arche Musée et Archives during an architecture and heritage walking tour. “These were crazy times around SaintPierre. People made a lot of money. Some even say Al Capone himself came here.”

Nursing a Miqu’ale La Rousse with a charcuterie board paid for in euros, I puzzle over the quiet existence of this little piece of France off the southern coast of Newfoundland and Labrador. SaintPierre and Miquelon, an archipelago with two major islands, is a French territorial collectivity. Named for the patron saint of fishermen and once a base for whaling and fishing, the islands passed between French

and British hands for centuries. France heavily subsidizes its last North American toehold and government and tourism workers outnumber fishers.

Saint-Pierre, population 5,633 at last official count, is the culture island and the name of the largest settlement. This should, by proximity, feel like a Newfoundland outport community, jellybean-coloured homes on a barren, rocky landscape. But somehow the presence of French flags, cars and street signs changes everything. That and the distinct sound of French spoken with a European, not Quebec, accent. Canada feels an ocean away.

Miquelon, physically larger but with a population of just 641, is the nature island, though it’s really two islands with a narrow, sandy stretch of land fusing it with Langlade. Explorations are dictated by the rhythm of the passenger ferries that connect the islands with each other and with Fortune, Newfoundland, just 20 kilometres away. Interpreter Flore OrsinyOlaisola meets me at Maison de la Nature et de L’Environnement for a hike through the boreal forest and bog on Miquelon-Langlade.

“If you want to go to Paris, it’s just over there,” she says, motioning across the ocean.

It’s not an uncommon sentiment. Paris may be 4,253 kilometres away, according to a sign posted at the trailhead, but France is close to everyone’s heart.

Then again, people here are fiercely proud of literally everything about their corner of the Earth. We take a two-hour hike through the Cap de Miquelon, stopping

often to learn about carnivorous plants, lambkill, bunchberries, cinnamon ferns and the white-tailed deer that were introduced decades ago for bowhunting. There are boardwalks through parts of the well-worn path, but plenty of spots where we sink in the muddy bog. At the highest point of the trek, Orsiny-Olaisola leads us blindfolded to the perfect spot for the big reveal of ocean, forest and lake.

That afternoon, Julie Mahé, a proud Miquelonnais home for the summer from university in France, leads a van tour by a local duck and sheep farm and to Langlade’s summer homes so I can see where my jars of foie gras and last night’s lamb dinner came from. We pass the lagoon where Zodiac tours zip out to see an enormous seal colony. We drive by bakeapple pickers collecting berries for jam. We admire a herd of horses that people mistakenly liken to the wild horses on Nova Scotia’s Sable Island. These ones run free as a community before wintering in barns. The island is so small, so narrow in parts, and so flat, that you can see and feel the ocean at every turn.

“I prefer Miquelon to Saint-Pierre because it’s calm,” Mahé tells us. “The colour of the water—it’s like we are in the Caribbean.”

Time ceases to matter as we stroll along Langlade’s stunning sandy beach. Mahé’s phone says 3:22 but it’s actually 3:52, and the ferry beckons. That’s another local quirk— we are 30 minutes ahead of Newfoundland, but phones bounce between Canadian and French cell towers.

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“Dérible casually throws a line overboard and tries, unsuccessfully, to catch a fish while we drift”

ON THIS SPREAD: Pointe aux Canons Lighthouse; exploring the interior of the Cathédrale de Saint-Pierre.

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BACK IN SAINT-PIERRE, I invite Maïté Légasse for lunch. I had seen her feeding the late Anthony Bourdain sea urchin pâté, squid, halibut, local goat cheese and a bakeapple tart on an episode of his show Parts Unknown. She is many things—food lover, mother of two, passionate advocate for the island, municipal councillor, aspiring restaurateur.

“I asked myself what could I do for my island,” she says. “I thought about what I like to do and what I don’t like to do and I thought, why not open a café?” Saint-Pierre desperately needs more places to eat— dinner and even some lunch reservations are essential—so Légasse is in the process of opening her own, Ma P’tite Cocotte.

I ask her, what does this quirky French collectivity need to become better known?

“To be more developed is an obvious goal,” Légasse says. “But to stay in the same spirit.

To be very friendly and keep the easy ways of life.”

Légasse sees me off to yet another boat, a water taxi, for a trip across the port to Île Aux Marins, the car-free “Pioneers Island” where restored buildings recreate life from the era that revolved around catching, drying and salting cod. Visitors eat up this sparse, windswept island. Photos of the church, grotto, cemetery and other restored buildings figure prominently in stories about the archipelago.

I am warned not to wander into any home with a flag flying outside—that’s code for “family land” still being used as summer getaways. A museum is filled with things donated by the community and there is a replica classroom. I read about how homes once had an enormous gravel bed for drying salted cod, and then I get to see and touch these rocks.

Random touches of modernity fascinate me, so when Taxi Saint-Pierre’s Bertrand Laroque drives me around the island of Saint-Pierre, I am weirdly charmed by the airy, two-storey airport terminal with huge picture windows onto the runway. The “new airport,” as it’s called (though it was built almost 20 years ago), should be locked since

there are no more flights for the day. But we explore without bumping into so much as a security guard.

Just like morning, evening in Saint-Pierre has its own rhythm. Shops and museums close. Restaurants re-open for long, late dinners. At fishing shed number 20 along the city waterfront, not far from where the ferries unload, the “Zigotos” gather to restore dories. They are members of a non-profit association dedicated to saving this traditional, flat-bottomed fishing boat, having built or renovated seven so far.

It is hard to nail down how this freespirited group works, but it seems that anyone who knows to drop by around 6 o’clock is welcome to see what they’re up to. I join two members—Marc Dérible and Jean-Louis Lemaine—in a dory powered by a powerful motor instead of oars, our destination just past Pioneers Island beside a rocky outcrop known as Grand Colombier Island. We cut the engine and observe an astounding number of seabirds, among them my favourite, the puffin. Dérible casually throws a line overboard and tries, unsuccessfully, to catch a fish while we drift.

“We are a group of buddies that like to get together and have fun,” offers Lemaine as we motor back to shore and join the others, who are chatting in French that is too fast for me to follow. They’ve thrown a pot of crab on to boil, but I have to beg off dinner to hunt down a new restaurant serving sushi.

Surely I have time for one “petite soupe?”

That’s Zigotos slang for rum and Coke. It is so far removed from the stereotype of the French sipping red wine, and so clearly a nod to the island’s rum running past, that it makes a weirdly perfect historical sense.

I never get a full answer on what Zigotos means but suspect the direct translation— someone who seeks to amaze, confound, impress—can’t be right. Or can it? This is an isolated country that reveals itself slowly to outsiders, so when a plastic glass of “petite soupe” is thrust into my hands, I stop trying to understand everything and shout “cheers.”

SAINT-PIERRE AND MIQUELON ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE Air Saint-Pierre has flights to Saint-Pierre from Montreal, St. John’s, Halifax, Quebec’s Magdalen Islands, Miquelon and Paris. Many people drive to Fortune, Newfoundland, and take the passenger ferry with SPM Ferries. You don’t need a vehicle, as downtown Saint-Pierre is walkable and there are many guided tours. Bring your passport. airsaintpierre.com; saintpierreferry.ca

STAY Reservations are essential for both Saint-Pierre and Miquelon’s limited hotels and bed-andbreakfasts. In Saint-Pierre, Hotel Jacques Cartier is the newest and most luxurious, while Hotel Nuit Saint-Pierre offers four rooms, one suite and a café. In Newfoundland, Hotel Fortune is minutes from the ferry in Fortune, where you can see Saint-Pierre and Miquelon on clear days. hoteljacquescartier.com; nuitssaintpierre.com; hotelfortune.ca

EAT In Saint-Pierre there are several bakeries, but Guillard Gourmandises is an artisan pâtissier and chocolatier. Chez Julien is the old-school grocer.

Book dinner at Le Feu de Braise for local cod and Les P’tits Graviers for local lamb. In Miquelon, have a classic French steak lunch or crêpe at Snack Bar-à-Choix. feudebraise.com

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LUXURY DESTINATION WEDDINGS & HONEYMOONS

FALL & WINTER 2019

The stunning geography of San Diego, with all its canyons, means main tourist attractions are spread out.Yet Doug O’Neill has found that this also works in the city’s favour. Culturally rich neighbourhoods develop their own identities. Mild temperatures, 110 kilometres of beautiful beaches, luxe hotels, innovative art and a cutting-edge culinary scene make for a memorable city stay.

S TAY Ocean views & sandy white beaches

E AT

DRINKS

West Coast chefs leading the trends

1920s speakeasies & 1970s disco clubs

SEE & DO Cliff-top views & checking out the waves

our insider’s

guide to Art installation on this page by Pablo Mason

SAN DIEGO Twilight at La Jolla Museum of Contemporary Art.

INSIDER’S GUIDE TO SAN DIEGO

S TAY

Ocean views & sandy white beaches THROUGH-THE-ROOF AMENITIES If celebrities are ever ignored at Andaz San Diego, it’s because guests are agog over the reimagined RoofTop600, which features a state-of-the-art retractable roof. The best rooftop cabana beds in town. andazsandiego.com A BOUTIQUE STAY WITH FOOSBALL Hotel Palomar, the recently renovated boutique property, is conveniently close to San Diego Zoo (get your koala time), and then there’s chef Brad Kraten’s sustainable ceviche bar at the hotel’s award-winning Curadero Mexican restaurant. Bonus: guests get to play vintage arcade games and foosball in the adult playroom. hotelpalomar-sandiego.com BEACHFRONT LUXURY Beautifully designed seaside cottages and villas (featuring fireplaces, marble baths and private patios) on a secluded beachfront, combined with the menu at the award-winning 1500 Ocean Restaurant (go for the seafood), make it difficult for guests to leave the grounds of Hotel del Coronado. Oh, and there’s a skating rink in winter. hoteldel.com GOLFING OR GALLOPING If the 1,850-square-metre eight-stall Equestrian Center at the Fairmont Grand Del Mar doesn’t get you up on your high horse, the Mediterranean-style resort (249 rooms) also features a Tom Fazio-designed 18-hole golf course. fairmont.com

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E AT

West Coast chefs leading the trends ON THIS PAGE: Xxxxx

HERBAL MAGIC Brian Malarkey won the San Diego Chef of the Year Award for 2017. If you want to know why, book a table at Herb and Wood and order the grilled Iberico pork Secreto with apple mustard, cannellini, pancetta and arugula. herbandwood.com WHERE THE BISCUITS ARE SMOKING! How many swanky restaurants do you frequent where buttermilk biscuits are a signature item?

At trendy Juniper & Ivy, the time-honoured American staple is infused with alderwood smoke, in keeping with chef Richard Blais’ commitment to “refined American food with a Left Coast edge.” juniperandivy.com IN THE HEART OF THE GASLAMP DISTRICT It’s tempting to come to Searsucker just for drinks (Happy Hour runs from 2:30pm to 6pm), but do stay for dinner. Kitchen favourites include filet tenderloin served with creamed pickled leeks and oyster mushrooms. Also on demand: braised lamb neck and king salmon.

The Gaslamp eatery is known for its weekend Bottomless Brunch. searsucker.com STEAK YOUR LIFE ON IT Early arrival at Born and Raised means a predinner drink at the funky Art Deco bar before chowing down on steak of choice—prime rib, bone-in ribeye, Japanese wagyu, Châteaubriand, tartare, filet mignon… the list goes on. bornandraisedsteak.com A TASTE OF ITALY Cucina Urbana in Bankers Hill is one part Italian country kitchen, one part wine shop. Expect fresh takes on pasta: squid ink radiatore, lamb and pistachio triangoli, and baked rigatoni with pulled pork. Staff run a free shuttle for patrons who have theatre tickets at the Old Globe. urbankitchengroup.com

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INSIDER’S GUIDE TO SAN DIEGO

DRINKS

1920s speakeasies & 1970s disco clubs DRINKING BY THE RULES Among the house rules at Prohibition Lounge: no cell phones at the bar, and absolutely no flip flops, active wear, shorts or ball caps. The drinks at this 1920s speakeasy-style bar are less onerous: I’m Sailing Away (gin, watermelon cordial, elderflower) and Yoga Pants (cognac, cashew orgeat, lemon, sarsaparilla bitters). prohibitionsd.com THAT 70S SHOW ALL OVER AGAIN Wood-clad 1970s recording studio meets eclectic New York City drinking hole at Analog Bar, where guests can check out the wall of vinyl hits—or dance under a disco ball. analogbar.com APERITIFS & ART GO HAND-IN-HAND Panama 66, at the San Diego Museum of Art, serves up smart cocktails to the artsy crowd until 10pm most nights. (There’s live jazz on Wednesdays.) panama66.com THE PROOF IS IN THE PUNCH! The drinks list at Hundred Proof rivals the lunch and dinner menu. Topping the list of faves: Osco Punch, which blends Modern Times Fosco beer with the Italian bitter cynar, Plantation Rum, lime and cinnamon. hundredproofsd.com

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SEE & DO

Cliff-top views & checking out the waves TROLLEY TIME Locals wisely tell you to skip the car rental and/or taxi and just hop the Old Town Trolley if you want a city tour—as well as a day trip to La Jolla Beach. Bonus: great views of the Pacific Ocean. And, yes, they’ll stop for photo ops. trolleytours.com GETTING TO THE ART OF IT It’s easy to get overwhelmed by the extensive collections (Asian art, portraiture, Impressionist works, German Expression, etc.) at the San Diego Museum of Art. Insider tip: docent-led tours (11am, 1pm, 2pm) are the way to go.

Closed Wednesdays. sdmart.org BEACHES GALORE Visitors do well by choosing their beach of choice in advance. Our faves: Pacific Beach (long, clean, white sandy beach with a cliff walk and a fishing pier) and Coronado Beach (a mix of glamour and natural beauty). To avoid traffic, head out in the morning. sandiego.org SURF’S UP Vacations, like life, are a balancing act. Try to remain standing during a surf lesson at the San Diego Surfing School at beautiful Ocean Beach. sandiegosurfingschool.com TEE TIME BY THE SEASIDE This 36-hole public golf facility is located on prime West Coast real estate. The biggest handicap for golfers at Torrey Pines is the distraction of the crashing waves and views of the Pacific. Focus, just focus. torreypines.com CLIFFS WITH A VIEW For one of the best sunset views, head to the Ladera Street area of Sunset Cliffs Natural Park. oceanbeachsandiego.com

TOP GUN TURNS 30 Legions of Top Gun fans are marking the 30th anniversary of the 1988 Tom Cruise flick with a visit to Kansas City Barbeque, the San Diego eatery where Meg Ryan delivered the famous line, “Goose, you big stud. Take me to bed now or lose me forever.” Just look for the neon Top Gun sign in the front window of the restaurant on Harbor Drive. kcbbq.net/top-gun

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TRAVEL INTEL Our tips and tricks to navigating the world

Lighten Up Your Luggage

Desperate to lose those last five pounds… from your luggage? We understand.

BY LIZ FLEMING

W

ith many airlines, being a pound (or, worse still, a whole kilo!) over the weight limit can mean having to pay a hefty fee. Let’s see if we can’t help you slim that suitcase down with these slenderizing tips.

Choose the lightest bag you can find. Some carry-ons on the market now weigh less than five pounds (about 2.3 kilos). Given that many airlines considering anything over 20 pounds (about nine kilos) as excessive, a featherweight bag is a must.

Put electronics in your backpack. Most airlines will let you take out your computer before they weigh you in, and some won’t weigh your designated “personal article” at all.

Plan your shoe wardrobe carefully. See if you can manage with two dressy pairs and one pair for walking.

Pack only travel sizes of your must-have toiletries. Plan to take advantage of room amenities like shampoo, conditioner and moisturizer to keep the list small.

If travel sizes don’t make sense (you need a full-size sunblock, for example), buy what you need there and donate what you don’t use to the housekeeping staff at the hotel.

Swap denim (one of the heaviest fabrics) for lighter-weight materials. Wear your one must-bring pair of jeans on the plane.

Heading to cool climes? Packable down is the answer. It’s warm and practically weightless.

Wear your heaviest clothing, maybe even your coat and boots, on the flight—you’ll be cold anyway.

Illustration by Laura García

Pack “technical textiles” like yoga tops, that can be washed and hung up to dry easily overnight. Not only will your clothing be lighter, but if you wash and re-wear pieces, you can pack fewer items.

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CREATE THE GREAT EIGHT

We all have our bucket list, but do you have a sassy selfie lineup? Here are some top picks for top pics: the world’s most fabulous selfie locations.

• Smile, smile, smile… in the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles.

• Hang on and catch a moment on a toboggan at the Great Wall.

• Strap into a safety harness and hang off the top of the CN Tower.

• Ride a bike and capture a shining moment on the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.

ALL THE

SINGLE LADIES

48.7 PERCENT

of women who have travelled solo.

35.1 PERCENT

of women who spent more than $1,000 on a solo trip.

60

PERCENT

of women who report they’ve never felt unsafe while travelling alone.

56.1 PERCENT

of women who reported that a “fear for personal safety” might keep them from solo travel. That’s more than double the number of men (25.7 percent).

–Statistics from Travelzoo

HAPPY KIDS, HAPPY TRAVELS

No one wants to be that family, the one with the obnoxious kids on the plane. But dreadful children aren’t born, they’re created by parents who don’t plan ahead. To make that next trip happier for you, your kids and everyone else in the plane, a few ideas:

•• In advance of the trip, show older children a map

of where you’re flying from and heading to, so they have a sense of the distance to be covered, and the patience required to get there. Talk to any child old enough to listen about the time they’ll be spending in the plane and what they can expect (i.e., having to sit still for a long time, but being able to watch movies or play games, having drinks and snacks). Forewarned is forearmed.

•• Bring snacks, toys, books, coloured pencils, video games, etc. because you can’t count on there being great movies for kids onboard. There may, in fact, be no movies at all, unless you’ve brought your own laptop or tablet. Even then, the selection provided by the airline might not be to your tiny traveller’s taste, so be smart and download a flight’s worth of favourites.

• Take a photo safari in Kenya and grab a jump shot with the famous leaping Maasai warriors.

• Cover yourself in a facial mask of healing mud at the Dead Sea. • Climb aboard a camel and get that shot at Petra, Jordan.

• Just before you jump into a hot air balloon in Temecula, California, smile for the captain.

HOW TO GET THE BEST RENTAL-CAR DEAL

If price is an obstacle, here are a few strategies for paying less for your next rental car.

•• Rent the smallest car available that will accommodate

you and your travelling companions. Often, rental places have fewer small cars and will upgrade you to a mid-size for free if they run out. If not, stow your auto ego, and be pleased you’re spending less on gas.

•• Bring your own GPS or use the guidance apps on your smartphone. The cost for a rental GPS can be as much as $6 a day.

•• Bringing the kids? Take your car seats from home. You can use them on the plane and save yourself a bundle when you’re behind the wheel. Rental car seats can be as much as $20 a day. If you can’t bring yours, and are a AAA or CAA member, check if the rental agency offers members deals on car seats. While you’re asking, check if you’re entitled to better pricing in general because you’re a member of CAA or AAA. •• Book through aggregator sites like Hotwire, Kayak and Expedia. We once found a mid-sized car rental for a week in Texas for just $6 a day through Hotwire.

•• Skip the fancy extras like Sirius XM. Every car has a radio or you can plug in your own music on your phone and save as much as $6 a day.

•• Bring good earphones for your kids. The better

they can hear their movie or game, the happier they’ll be.

•• Do get up for supervised walks up and down the aisles. Everyone needs a stretch now and then. If people speak to your children, encourage them to respond, but don’t allow them to poke at passengers who may be sleeping or enjoying some peace and quiet. Your children are adorable, of course, but not everyone is ready to adore them at all times.

•• If you’re travelling with an infant, be sure to nurse the baby or give them a bottle as the plane descends for landing. The action of sucking will prevent ear pain as the pressure changes.

•• Bring pre-moistened towelettes or a damp facecloth in a plastic bag for the inevitable spills and emergencies.

•• Remember that your child is your responsibility, not the flight attendant’s and certainly not your row mate’s. This is a full-time job for you. You’re not on vacation until you get to the resort. Do not allow your child to rampage up and down the aisles, or kick the seat-back in front of them.

BOLD QUERY WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO BOOK FLIGHTS ONLINE? ARE THERE BETTER DEALS OFFERED ON CERTAIN DAYS? AT CERTAIN TIMES? According to our travel experts, if an airline is going to post a sale, the prices will be dropped on Monday night, with the tickets released on Tuesday morning.

For the next day or so, competing airlines may also drop their prices, so Tuesday and Wednesday are often the best time for airline ticket shopping.

WHAT ARE YOUR TRAVEL MUSTHAVES?

We asked our favourite frequent travellers what they wouldn’t be caught dead without, whether they’re in Dubai, Dublin or just down the street. Here’s what they had to say: Wireless Bluetooth headphones.

Ivory soap. Good for you, your clothing and for dealing with any rashes you might pick up.

Packing cubes. Knowing the clean undies are in the mid-sized cube, you’ll never root around like a wild thing again.

Old-school camera strap. For those times you’re horseback riding, skiing, climbing a tree or otherwise need both hands. Your pocket isn’t always the handiest spot to keep your camera.

Clear cosmetic cases. For everything from electronics to foreign money. You can see what’s inside each.

Tablet/smartphone.

Sewing kit. Even if you can’t sew, you never know when you might need to remove a sliver or find a safety pin.

Spare eyeglasses or contact lenses.

Quick dry underwear. Wash it at night and hang it to dry. You might only need a few pairs for your whole trip.

Lip balm. Not only great for lips, you can rub it on cracked cuticles too.

Disposable cleansing wipes.

Because messes happen.

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Gift them the GLOBE Inspire the world traveller in your life with a Carlson Wagonlit Travel Gift Card.

Celebrate the holiday season or any occasion by gifting someone special an extraordinary experience and cherished memories they’ll have for a lifetime.

TO PURCHASE, CONTACT A CARLSON WAGONLIT TRAVEL ADVISOR. www.cwtvacations.ca • 1-800-CARLSON Earn and redeem RBC Rewards® points on your vacation.

Plus get BONUS points when you redeem, exclusively with CWT. ®/™ Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. Used under license.

BY CARLSON WAGONLIT TRAVEL

Vacation of the Generation It’s all about planning and in this issue, our CWT Travel Advisors share their best tricks and tips for multigenerational family vacations

BOLD Traveller Promotion in partnership with boldmagazine.ca

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PLANNING

The New Trend in Travel

BY ANNE-MARIE MARAIS

C

elebrating the generations of family, sharing experiences and creating memories through travel is why multi-generational travel is one of the current top travel trends. Depending on your background, family vacations or multi-generational travel may have been the norm in your family, but for many it’s a new adventure.

When I was a baby in South Africa, we often enjoyed multi-generational vacations with our grandparents. We would rent a house by the sea and vacation as one family unit. But when we moved to Canada these types of multi-generational holidays were not common practice at the time in North America.

Now times have changed and we’re seeing more and more families choosing to take trips together.

Grandparents, or a third generation, are joining in the fun as families head off on adventures together. From a relaxing all-inclusive holiday to Mexico to cruising the Caribbean and even trips around Europe.

Multi-generational travel is a growing trend as families are living further apart and with baby boomers, or the grandparents, being healthier and more energetic than previous generations, there are more opportunities for such trips. We’re also seeing trips for celebrating milestones and anniversaries that are on a much grander scale than that of previous generations.

With the trend in multi-generational travel, we are also seeing an increase in people gifting experiences, not things. And giving the gift of travel is the perfect way to provide loved ones something meaningful by creating shared experiences among all the generations of the family.

Coming together on a trip can have benefits for everyone. Travel recharges and relaxes us, it opens our minds and broadens our experiences. For the youngest travellers, the gift of travel provides a great deal to be learned from visiting new places along with what can be experienced while spending time with older family members. And these special moments during multi-generational travel become lasting memories for all.

One of the greatest gifts you can give someone is travel, and I’ve been lucky enough to be gifted a few multi-generational travel experiences with my family. The most special journey I was given was returning for the first time to my birth country of South Africa with my father. We travelled around the country together and culminated the experience with sharing Christmas with my grandmother.

Travelling the country alongside my father gave me the opportunity to experience a country that, because I left when I was young, I had only heard of in stories shared by my father.

To actually see and experience the places he spoke of was such a special time for me. And to get the opportunity to enjoy time with my grandmother was life-changing. Having this rare moment to experience three generations together made me see with my own eyes and feel with my own heart that I was a part of a great family. Without this multi-generational journey, I would never have known how wonderful travelling as a family could be.

Today, our multi-generational family travel may not be made up of more than two generations, but the gift of travel that we have given ourselves provides us with the opportunity to spend time together while discovering a new place. I often join in the fun of travel with my sister and her family. It delights me to see the sense of wonder and curiosity travelling has inspired in my two energetic nieces.

We’ve enjoyed vacations together in warm climates during our cold Canadian winters.

When planning such a trip, we ensure that we find a destination that we share an interest to visit, along with booking the right accommodation to allow us time and space together, but also apart. Making sure that activities are planned that everyone gets a chance to enjoy, while leaving enough free time for individual interests or relaxation.

What we truly enjoy about sharing these experiences is the memories that we’re making as a family: from adventures together like snorkeling to simply enjoying an early morning dip in the pool for us younger folk (and yes, I still include myself in with my nieces as the “younger folk�) or a walk along a white sandy beach alone. These types of family vacations provide many opportunities for everyone to take time away from their busy schedules and technology to really get back to the roots of what family means. Special moments could be as simple as an afternoon drink between generations or silly fun among young and old frolicking in the ocean or lovely meals shared together without all the fuss and muss of one person doing all the work.

Travel Advisors are recognizing the importance of creating travel experiences that will please all from the young to the more mature within one multi-generational trip. With families spread across the continent or the world, travel together is the best way for everyone to congregate in one destination and enjoy quality time as a family without all the stress and pressure that goes along with hosting traditional holiday events.

Travel Advisors are recognizing the importance of creating travel experiences that will please everyone, from the young to the more mature, within one multi-generational trip.

Multi-generational travel gives families an opportunity to build memories at a time when lives are busier, people are more preoccupied by technology and schedules and making the most of the time that we have together is crucial.

TO GIVE THE GIFT OF TRAVEL, CONTACT A CWT TRAVEL ADVISOR AT 1.800.CARLSON

WORTH TRAVELLING FOR

A QUIETER SPLASH ith stunning architecture that gives heft and history to cultural touchstones like Game of Thrones and Star Wars, Dubrovnik is everything an ancient walled fortress city should be. But there are some days where there are far too many visitors stunned by that architecture crowding the baking stone streets. Just offshore… the escape.

A 15-minute ferry trip from a stone jetty takes you to the small pine-and-stone island of Lokrum. The breeze on the boat trip clears the over-touristed head. Staring into the clear waters of the Adriatic, it’s easy to imagine the rocks are ancient cannonballs.

On shore, trails lead to gardens, the ruins of a Benedictine monastery and views out over the Adriatic, and back at the walled city, just 600 metres away. A tiny salt lake, called the Dead Sea, is perfect for swimming.

More adventurous souls might press on, around the point from the ferry, hiking through the brush to a hidden clothing-optional beach. The beach, in fact, is more like a collection of huge flat stones, terracing down to the crystal clear water. Beachgoers find a comfortable surface and pour themselves a drink. This is the place where sunny afternoons go on forever. —GIOMAR SAVOCA

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Photo by Jocelyn Erskine-Kellie

W

Lokrum, Croatia

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