Bold Magazine Fashion & Style Issue

FA L L | 2 0 1 9

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GREAT ESCAPES

From a French Polynesian idyll to an Argentine ranch

New Zealand Ireland Malaysia

INDIA T WO WAY S

THE

Style ISSUE

The BOLD List of what to pack, no matter where you go next

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FALL | 2019

Features

In This Issue 43 Style Spotlight

You don’t have to hit all our favourite global travel destinations to try these style ideas on for size (though it might be fun to try). We’ve assembled some fantastic looks for you. Plus: the best cannabis-infused beauty products

60 Whakapapa Wonder

During her journey to New Zealand to New Zealand, Britney Hope’s attention was not just focused on the stunning landscape. She was also nervous and excited about discovering her Aotearoa roots

68 Belfast Now

A small step for global style the Fendi show at Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2019/20.

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Photo By FashionStock.com

It wasn’t always an essential U.K. destination, but modern Belfast has much more to offer than Titanic memorabilia, reports Doug O’Neill

FALL | 2019

Contents 32

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38

Also in This Issue What you need to know about African safaris now

34 LOCAL EXPERT: Comedian Douglas Lim’s guide to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

14 EDITOR’S NOTE: Make

36 GLOBETROTTER: TV

16 CONTRIBUTORS: Meet the talented pros who brought this issue to life

38 CRUISE: Cruise lines get serious about on-stage fun

every journey a journey of the heart

19 AGENDA: Marlon Brando’s

43

legacy, a new train to Machu Picchu, the Laurentians and other destinations on our radar

22 RETREATS: Feel the hug of nature at these five outstanding lodges

24 STAY: Pulling up a chair at Ireland’s Roundhouse B&B

28 TRAVEL TWO WAYS:

Chasing history in Hampi, adventure in Ladakh

30 DRINK: Buenos Aires’ matte obsession

ON THE COVER The Brando, a French Polynesian island hideaway resort that has Hollywood legends, not just scenery, in its DNA.

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32 FOOD DIARIES: The life of chef Yannick LaSalle in words and pictures

personality and Indiginous activist Sarain Fox

80 TRAVEL INTEL: Top

destinations for feeling safe, plus more

82 WORTH TRAVELLING FOR: Lyon, France

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Cover photo courtesy The Brando; Lyon photo by Krom Galerie/Lyon Tourisme et Congrès

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12 EDITOR’S ITINERARY:

DRIFT

B E YO N D

Tranquility

Come discover a place with 33 powder-white beaches, turquoise waters and culinary delights, with cay islands and caves waiting to be found. A place where locals wave hello as you pass by on your way to explore a world beyond expectations.

1

#

Island in the Caribbean 3 Years in a Row! TRAVEL+LEISURE

BEYOND ivisitanguilla.com

A Beach for Every Body and Soul Divinely inspiring Thailand nurtures the body and soothes the soul. Find peace under the palms on a white sand beach; experience that breathtaking moment when the waning sun sets beyond the spire of a gilded temple. A trip to Thailand is more than a chance to relax; it’s an opportunity to rediscover and find yourself.

Divinely Crafted. Authentically Experienced.

For more information visit www.thailandinsider.com

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302 TRIPS • 7 CONTINENTS • 72 COUNTRIES MOMENTS LIKE THIS ON EVERY ONE. 1 800-352-4444

trafalgar.com See your travel agent

REAL CONNECTIONS • REAL JOY • REAL EASE

CELEBRATES 10 YEARS OF “BE MY GUEST” PROGRAM

Breaking bread and tasting flavours with locals on exclusive culinary experiences around the world.

From iconic to the unexpected, Trafalgar, the world leader in travel for over 73 years knows travellers are looking for local and authentic experiences when they travel. For the past decade, the brand’s ‘Be My Guest’ experiences have been doing just that.

In 2009, Trafalgar introduced the original and most immersive local travel experiences, offering to connect travellers to the destination like never before. Trafalgar’s ‘Be My Guest’ has become synonymous with what it means to get truly local, born from the knowledge that at the heart of a unique travel experience is people and human connection.

Beginning in Sorrento, Italy, Trafalgar guests were welcomed into the home of the Esposito sisters where they enjoyed a delicious homecooked meal and homegrown limoncello. Now, a decade later, ‘Be My Guest’ experiences are exclusive to Trafalgar and are available on almost every trip, each a one-of-a-kind experience. Guests ‘Connect With Locals’ as they taste produce direct from source (and sometimes even assisting to preparing the meals), share a glass or two of delicious wine, or uncover a piece of history in châteaux, ryokans, farms and castles and meet the individuals who bring these incredible experiences to life. No matter where you are in the world, every ‘Be My Guest’ host offers a unique story to tell with delicious flavours and authentic meals specific to the region.

Discover Trafalgar’s ‘Be My Guest’ experiences all around the world, including the following highlights: FRANCE Return to 17th-century France and join host Béatrice de Montferrier and her daughter Alexandra on their Manor Farm near the famous Château de Villandry for an exclusive and traditional three-course ‘Be My Guest’ Tourangelle dinner accompanied by local wines. Travellers will enjoy a walking tour of the garden and storytelling about the history of the house and farm which is surrounded by sunflower fields, as well as a freshly prepared meal including Beatrice’s famous chocolate cake.

Itineraries: Best of France and Highlights of France & Barcelona IRELAND Go scavenging along the wild and wonderful Irish coastline with Oonagh, a passionate local horticulture tutor and food blogger.

Oonagh will share her extensive knowledge about the wealth of nature and the local plants on a walk to identify various foods that grow wild on the lanes and the beach. This exclusive Trafalgar ‘Be My Guest’ experience will have guests enjoying a delicious freshly prepared lunch at the homely Barrtra Seafood restaurant overlooking beautiful Liscannor Bay, near Ireland’s Cliffs of Moher, made with fresh ingredient and some of the local delights.

Itinerary: Irish Experience ITALY Enjoy local Tuscan cuisine with local Italian Count Miari Fulcis on his 15th-century organic olive oil estate in the Tuscan hills overlooking Florence, used as a location for many famous films like Room with a View and Tea with Mussolini. This Trafalgar ‘Be My Guest’ experience will have guests exploring the Fattoria (farm) which is home to over 740 acres of organic olive groves and 20,000 olive trees, animals and spectacular gardens while learning about past guests to the estate

(including Queen Victoria). The farm’s olives are picked entirely by hand to produce one of Europe’s finest olive oils, and in addition to learning about the process used to make olive oil over a delectable tasting.

Itineraries: Gladiators, Gondolas & Gold, Great Italian Cities, Best of Italy & Greece, and European Splendour JAPAN During this exclusive ‘Be My Guest’ kaiseki lunch, Trafalgar guests will be welcomed into a traditional 1930s ryokan home built on the hillside of Mt. Yoshida in Kyoto, originally built for the uncle of the current Emperor Akihito. Surrounded by beautifully landscaped and pictureperfect gardens, the ryokan provides insights into life in a former Imperial Court and is a wonderful look into Japanese history. Before enjoying a delightful kaiseki lunch, travellers will learn about local Japanese customs and be gifted with a seasonal Waka poem handwritten in calligraphy, with a message expressing the family’s gratitude for their visit.

Itinerary: Splendours of Japan UNITED STATES Meet lifelong neighbours Joe Stone and Esther Carpenter at their charming Natchez homes on this exclusive ‘Be My Guest’ experience, which will include a private piano concert, a tour of the homes and a wonderful three-course meal with regional wine. Guests will explore this Southern Mansion, passed down through five generations of Carpenter women, over a delicious homecooked meal prepared by award-winning chef, Esther.

Itinerary: Taste and Sounds of the South For more information on Trafalgar’s ‘Be My Guest’ program, please visit Trafalgar.com/en-ca and follow us: @TrafalgarTravel

@TrafalgarCanada

Trafalgar is the world’s leading and most awarded travel brand, spanning all seven continents of the globe.

From the iconic to the unexpected, we craft unique Trafalgar Highlights that connect guests to the real depth of the places we go, without them needing to worry about a thing. It’s 73 years of destination expertise and feedback from over five million happy guests that fuels our innovation to continually deliver Simply the Best holidays.

EDITOR’S ITINERARY

SAFARI, so good You don’t have to follow the crowds to follow the trails of The Big Five

– by Liz Fleming – A PRIDE OF NATURE LOVERS Evening cocktails outdoors at Namibia’s &Beyond lodge.

Among the newly introduced National Geographic Family Journeys from G Adventures, the Southern Africa-based itinerary, In Search of the Big Five, will bring the whole family on an 11-day adventure. Families have opportunities to see “the Big Five” (lion, African elephant, Cape buffalo, leopard and rhinoceros) and visit Cape Town and the penguins of Boulders Beach in South Africa, as well as Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.

The Family Journeys series, launched last May, provides reduced pricing for children 12 and under. The itinerary is designed to balance the interests of children and adults; the tour leaders for the series are specially trained to take into account the needs of younger travellers. gadventures.com MORE MAASAI

When it comes to over-the-top travel adventures, there is simply no sight more heart-stopping than wild animals roaming their rugged natural habitat.

A LIGHT FOOTPRINT… AND LESS LIGHT The &Beyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge reopens this fall after a 10-month complete rebuild in Namibia’s NamibRand Nature Reserve. One of only 13 designated “Dark Sky Reserves” in the world, the skies above it are known for being clear, with minimal light pollution. The new design, by South African-based Fox Browne Creative, maximizes views of both landscape and skyscape with floor-to-ceiling glass walls and above-bed retractable skylights. But the build maintains &Beyond’s commitment to sustainable, lowimpact tourism.

So much of the 10-suite lodge’s appeal is the Namib Desert landscape—dunes, mountains and stony outcrops. But the safari offerings are also unique in the bush. They include day trips to Deadvlei (a former oasis in the desert that has since dried up, leaving an eerie area of petrified trees) and the Sossusvlei dunes; non-guided walks exploring the dunes; hot air balloon rides over the desert; and stargazing at night with the resident astronomer. andbeyond.com SCHEDULING YOUR SAFARI If a safari is topping your must-do list, plan a rainy-season visit to the land where nature rules supreme.

When water returns to an otherwise arid landscape, wildlife of every kind appears, making possible encounters you’d never have imagined. Sleep under starry skies at your safari camp, then wake at dawn to ride in an open-sided jeep—animals are at their most active when the air is still cool.

You’ll have your camera ready at all times, but you might find that hours pass without you ever remembering to take a shot. It’s too easy to be so stunned by the sight of a herd of gazelles dancing across the plains or a mother lion sharing the night’s kill with her hungry cubs in the early morning light that you forget to click the shutter. Don’t stress, you’ll have hundreds of photos by the time you go home. Instead sit perfectly still, and become entranced by the power of the wild. A plea to ethical travellers: When taking photos of wildlife with your phone or digital camera, turn off the GPS and location-tracking services; it prevents poachers from using your posts to zone in on where the animals were spotted.

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Quite possibly the best places on Earth for seeing animals are the vast plains of Kenya’s Maasai Mara. It’s not as big as the Serengeti in Tanzania, which is just to the south, but more of its landscape has interesting vegetation and hills. There, on a single game drive, you can encounter cheetahs, white and black rhinoceros, African wild dogs, lions, elephants, hippos, hyenas, leopards, giraffes, Cape buffalo and more. The animals rule the plains and we humans occupy just a tiny part of it.

A UNESCO World Heritage site, this remarkable part of Kenya has prohibited hunting for many years, so most of the animals you’ll encounter have little or no fear of humans. To your slack-jawed wonderment, you’ll find they often trustingly approach safari jeeps to take a curious look inside. If you sit very still you might see an elephant herd lumbering past, heading for the watering hole, the mothers swinging their trunks to keep their frolicking youngsters in line. Perhaps a herd of zebra will thunder into view in a wild swirl of black and white, pausing long enough for a photo op.

As the jeep rolls slowly along, try to spot a Maasai herdsman wearing his traditional red plaid, scanning for lions as he guards his cattle on the vast plains.

If you have time, ask to visit a Maasai village where you’ll be warmly welcomed by singing children and entertained by young hunters eager to dazzle you with their ability to jump higher than most NBA stars. Look out, Kawhi Leonard! magicalkenya.com

Our world deserves more you. Because it’s yours. The quirkies, the friendlies, the curious, and of course the kind. Small group tours bring you closer to our world, its people, their culture, and their way of life. If you want to be part of where our world is headed, go and see where the rest of it is going.

1 888 800 4100 gadventures.com

FALL | 2019

Editor’s Note My most searing childhood nightmares featured me and my maternal grandfather being chased by monsters. I don’t know where these dreams came from. When I was little, my grandfather was already quite an old man, even compared to my other grandparents. So maybe it was just his age. During a stay in Ireland in my early 20s, I had a nightmare about him one night when I was in Galway, a city not far from where my maternal ancestors— and his—would have set sail from in the early 1800s, on their way to start a new life as immigrants to Canada. When I called home the next morning, I was told that, sadly, my grandfather had died that very night. It was eerie. I felt so far away and so close. Many years later, I clearly remember that phone booth in Galway where I made that call. The phone booth, in a weird way, has become my own personal must-see attraction when I visit Ireland’s west coast—I’ll stand in the spot for a few minutes, look out to sea and think of him.

The moment, the feeling and the place are forever fused together in my brain.

When people tell me I have a great gig here at BOLD, being sent by work to beautiful places, getting to stay at posh hotels and getting to eat at top restaurants, I can’t argue. But anybody who travels for work knows that it’s not the same thing to travel for work as to travel for pleasure. A hotel’s beds are as comfortable when you’re working as when you’re on holidays, a restaurant’s ingredients as flavourful, but the aura that hangs over the experience—what you’ll remember—is completely different.

When people talk about, say, a resort they love, their might find themselves

describing the hugeness of the rooms, all the granite in the bathroom, the funky art in the lobby and the fantastic ocean view. But I think that the feeling they’re feeling is coming from the personal moments that happened at the resort: the honeymoon excitement, the nervousness of having what might be the last family vacation before the kids become adults, the hilarity of the funny things your bachelorette party did by the pool so late that night. For a truly meaningful vacation, the geographic landscape, no matter how beautiful, is a backdrop for a traveller’s emotional landscape. The best destinations and the best properties know this. No matter the adventures that are on offer, no matter how attentive the service, it must complement, never distract from, the memories that are being made. And it’s those memories, not the strawberry pavlova or thread count, that keeps us coming back to our favourite places.

In keeping with the theme of travel, family connections and emotions, Britney Hope brings us along on her trip to New Zealand, which is both a touristic adventure and an emotional journey (it starts on page 60). And speaking of Irish stories—Jane Cooper Ford found a few in County Laois (page 22); so did Doug O’Neill in Belfast (page 68).

Paul Gallant Executive Editor

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Photo by Tishan Baldeo

Visiting an emotional landscape

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FALL | 2019

Contributors 22 JANE COOPER FORD Writer

TELLING TALES Jane Cooper Ford is a TV writer, novelist and playwright who has created and executive produced five network TV series in Canada and the U.S., most recently a comedy for NBC starring Andrea Martin. Jane’s fave things about travel are great food, meeting new people and overly expensive hotel Wi-Fi.

26 ROHAN SOOD Writer

TRAVEL TWO WAYS, HAMPI AND LADAKH A traveller at heart, Rohan has visited 22 countries across six continents. His favourite experiences are plunging in to sub-zero Antarctic waters, renovating a Buddhist monastery in Sri Lanka and hiking jungles in Borneo. He is also an engineer, a sustainability activist and a polar explorer. @geeknextdoor

60 BRITNEY HOPE Writer

WHAKAPAPA WONDER From crabbing in Kirkenes to facing hyenas on horseback, Britney Hope is a travel writer and media relations specialist whose interests include the industry of tourism, the ever-evolving definition of “responsible” travel and handing back those bizarre, plastic in-flight water cups with the foil lids. @britneylhope

Marlon J. Moreno CEO + Editorial Director Luis Chavez Vice President, Operations Pina Russo Chief Digital Officer Paul Gallant Executive Editor Liz Fleming Associate Editor Magda de la Torre Americas Editor Ruth J. Katz Contributing Editor

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Victoria Bass • Liz Fleming Jane Cooper Ford • Waheeda Harris Britney Hope • Doug O’Neill Rohan Sood • Sarah Treleaven Diana Spechler

ADVERTISING & SALES United in Change Media Yvonne Xenidis Chief Revenue Officer 416.624.5496 yvonne@unitedinchange.com

ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN Laura García

For Lifestyle and Co-Branded Partnerships, Promotions, Reprints and Sponsorships inquiries marlon@morenoco.com luis@morenoco.com Phone: 1.416.323.7828 ext. 25

PHOTOGRAPHY Tishan Baldeo WEB DEVELOPER Rahul Nair SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Juan Felipe Galán

PUBLIC RELATIONS AGENCY Jesson + Company jessonco.com info@jessonco.com 77 Bloor St. West, Suite 1200 Toronto, ON M5S 1M2 CORRESPONDENCE The Hudson Bay Centre 20 Bloor St. East, P.O. Box 75075 Toronto, ON M4W 3T3 BOLD® is published bimonthly by Moreno & Company Inc. Opinions expressed in BOLD® are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers. BOLD® does not assume liability for content.

All prices quoted are in rounded Canadian dollars, accurate at press time, unless otherwise noted. www.boldmagazine.ca

IN THE SHADOW OF HISTORY

BASÍLICA DE LA ASUNCIÓN, LEÓN’S CATHEDRAL More than just the largest cathedral in Central America, Nicaragua’s Catedral De León is an awe-inspiring testament to the spirit of the Nicaraguan people and their vibrant cultural legacy. Blending Baroque and Neoclassical style with Gothic, Renaissance, and Mudejar influence, the Catedral De León has been built and rebuilt four times since 1610. This officially recognized World Heritage site holds the tomb of beloved poet Rubén Darío and priceless works of religious art, including ornate church bells and imposing statues. A view from the top of this modern relic is a powerful reminder: both of the historic grandeur reflected in its 34 domes and of the compelling beauty in Nicaragua’s colonial cities.

Stay Connected

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INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS

AGENDA WHERE WE’RE EXPLORING NEXT

GODFATHER IN

F

Paradise

or those who don’t simply want to check the South Pacific off their bucket list, there’s an island hideaway resort that has Hollywood legends, not just scenery, in its DNA. Located on the tropical Tetiaroa atoll in French Polynesia, The Brando is named after none other than Marlon Brando, who first visited the region in the early 1960s while filming the Oscar-nominated 1962 film Mutiny on the Bounty. In 1966, Brando returned to buy the Tetiaroa atoll, composed of a dozen small motus (small islands) surrounding a lagoon, as his personal retreat where he could escape the paparazzi. >> BOLD

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The fall colours in the Laurentians’ Saint-Sauveur-des-Monts.

WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE

H

eading to Les Laurentides to take in some fall foliage or, later in the year, some schussing? Bustling Mont-Tremblant is not the only show in the region. Bike along the sandy beaches of Lac de Sables in Sainte-Agathe-des-Monts, which is also a stop on the Le P’tit Train du Nord Linear Park, a 232-kilometre recreational trail along an old railroad between Bois-des-Filion and Mont-Laurier. Or spend an afternoon at the Finnish-style Amerispa sauna in Morin Heights, a charming town that also hosts a spring festival dedicated to wellness and spirituality. laurentides.com; amerispa.ca; festival-morin.com; ptittraindunord.com

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Vallee Saint Sauveur photo courtesy Tourisme Laurentides

AGENDA | GO NOW

In 1999, near the end of his life, Brando met with hotelier Richard H. Bailey to talk about maintaining his dream of an island paradise. Bailey, CEO of Pacific Beachcomber, is the man behind four InterContinental resorts in French Polynesia, as well as three other South Pacific luxury properties. And he saw something very special in Brando’s idea of maintaining the atoll as an ecological haven. Polynesian five-star luxury, yes, with one-, two-, and three-bedroom villas (four new residences, each situated on about a half hectare of property, have just been added to its roster of 35 villas), as well as a spa.

But with a deeply embedded sustainable ethos—the goal is to be the world’s first resort with a near-zero carbon emission.

Electricity is generated from solar panels and coconut oil biofuel, while wastewater is used for irrigation. “Each of the Brando residences will feature five-star services and amenities powered by the same zero-carbon emission technology that has established The Brando as a pillar of sustainable hospitality,” said Bailey.

“The residences will be strategically located on the resort’s primary motu of Onetahi, allowing us to provide new accommodations for guests while preserving the biodiversity of Tetiaroa.”

The combined allure of exclusivity and privacy has paid off so far—Beyoncé and the Obamas have been among the guests since The Brando opened in 2014. thebrando.com

ORGANICALLY

S

Yours

ituated in the Mayan Riviera’s spiritual heart, Tulum, the barefoot luxury camp Papaya Playa Project has an urban spirit that encourages visitors to come together and be inspired.

Its 100 rooms are simple but chic, dotted along the beach and nestled in the jungle. Its Gaudí-inspired treehouse peeks over the treeline like a guardian watching over its flock. Papaya Playa Project founder Emilio Heredia calls his vision “primitive sophistication” and the 2011 transformation that added luxurious elements to the original eco resort brings home that vibe with style. Heredia’s reverence for the environment is inspiring, sitting as it does on prime land that five-star all-inclusives covet. Locally sourced materials and recycled wood mingle with no-frills furnishing, while white macramé detailing gives the structures a special charm. papayaplayaproject.com

ATTAINABLE ALTITUDE

W

ith so many visitors causing so much wear and tear on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, taking the train seems like the more sustainable way to reach the legendary historic site. The trip used to require a bus or taxi ride to an outlying station, but now Inca Rail offers a direct route from San Pedro in downtown Cuzco to Machu Picchu Pueblo (Aguas Calientes). There are four morning departures, including the Voyager service, which emphasizes comfortable seating; 360° service, which has an outside observation carriage; and First Class, with a focus on service and gourmet cuisine. incarail.com

TRULY IBERIAN AESTHETICS

N

ot far from Madrid’s monumental Paseo del Prado, a new private museum by the Fundación María Cristina Masaveu Peterson is opening its doors this fall and its inaugural show, Colección Masaveu, siglo XIX, promises to be a doozy. Its Masaveu Collection, mostly of Spanish works, contains more than 1,500 pieces spanning from the Middle Ages to the present day, including artists from Jacomart to Picasso, Dalí and Miró, as well as contemporary artists like Antonio López, Juan Uslé and Miquel Barceló. Expect a launch date soon. fundacioncristinamasaveu.com BOLD

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A G E N D A | R E T R E AT S

A NATURAL

ATTRACTION

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PLANNING AN ESCAPE TO GET THAT DAILY DOSE OF SUNSHINE? WAHEEDA HARRIS HAS FOUND FIVE LODGES FOR THOSE SEEKING A REAL CONNECTION TO THE GREAT OUTDOORS

ARGENTINA Estancia La Bamba de Areco, San Antonio de Areco As the ranch Land Rover delivers guests to the door of this contemporary lodge, the Spanish colonial-meets-modern main house feels like a private residence. Polo horses are trained nearby and a hospitable staff are all about pamperings guests. Strolling the grounds and spending time in the luxe out-buildings provide an idyllic escape for urbanites (it’s two hours from Buenos Aires) to savour Argentine wine and cuisine. labambadeareco.com

NEW ZEALAND Lochmara Lodge, Marlborough Sounds A private water taxi from the South Island port of Picton brings guests to this eco-friendly accommodation, passing on its way through sea passages that are water playgrounds for penguins and dolphins. Guests are encouraged to hike the lodge’s lush surroundings and nearby trails, kayak or paddle board the shoreline of Lochmara Bay or take time to tour the wildlife recovery centre. Located close to the oldest wine region of New Zealand, numerous regional vintages and locally-sourced cuisine are on offer at the lodge café, which can be enjoyed on the lodge deck for sunset and for stargazing the southern skies. lochmara.co.nz

LA PAZ, MEXICO CostaBaja Resort & Spa Chilling out at the resort’s expansive infinity pool, which overlooks the small town of La Paz on the Sea of Cortez, is the way to quickly transform into vacay mode. Tee off on the Gary Player signature 18-hole golf course, charter a yacht for sport fishing or book a boat tour at the hotel’s marina to go diving or snorkeling to view fish, sea lions, dolphins and whales in the protected marine park made famous by 1970s French scientist/ TV host Jacques Cousteau. costabajaresort.com

COSTA RICA The Harmony Hotel, Nosara Five star and sustainable are perfectly paired at this laid-back boutique hotel on the country’s northwest coast. Each room has a small patio with hammock to encourage me-time with a book.

Guests can surf (or learn to surf) in the breaks at the hotel’s beach, partake in yoga below the palm trees or indulge in a daily spa treatment. Spa ingredients sourced from the extensive hotel gardens, which also provides inspiration for the dining room’s ever-changing menu. harmonynosara.com

SOUTH AFRICA Chisomo Safari Camp, Limpopo Guests are pretty much guaranteed giraffes at sunrise at this lodge, found within the Karongwe Private Game Reserve. A chic glamping site with five-star hospitality from lounge to dining room, the luxurious elevated safari tents overlook a river from where one might hear a nightly lullaby from hippopotamuses.

Indulge in South African wines at the open-air main lodge or at the swimming pool, while chatting about what big five creatures were seen on the twice-daily game drives. karongweportfolio.com/chisomo BOLD

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A G E N D A | S TA Y

Telling tales

All Roundwood House photos by Avril Kennan

IF THESE WALLS COULD TALK. AT A THREE-CENTURIES-OLD GEORGIAN MANOR NEAR DUBLIN, IT’S ALWAYS STORYTIME

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At County Laois’s Roundwood House, you’ll want to take off your shoes and stay a while.

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A G E N D A | S TA Y

The

classic components of a great Irish story: colourful characters, history, magic, a bit of exaggeration and the feeling that anything is possible. And sometimes the great Irish story is a place, maybe one in Ireland’s County Laois, filled with history but very much about now.

Nestled in more than seven woodland hectares, just over an hour from Dublin, Roundwood House is a B&B with six bedrooms in the main house, four in the second house, two cottages, a library, a dog who gives a walking tour, two little girls, some hens and ducks to greet you on your arrival, three cats in various Irish sunbeams, two guinea pigs and a rooster named Brewster. Obviously, the colourful characters in Ireland don’t stop at people.

When Hannah and Paddy Flynn took over Roundwood House from Hannah’s parents 11 years ago, they were both in their late 20s. Paddy, a musician from Canada, met Hannah in Galway where she was in school. Hannah’s parents had purchased the house in 1988, but its history goes back much, much further. It was likely built in 1741 to fit the demands of a prosperous family of cloth makers.

The home itself retains all the charm and feel of when it was originally built, but Downton Abbey stuffy this is not.

The Flynns have kept it a warm and welcoming, charming escape from the hustle and bustle. Many original features remain intact, including chimneypieces of black Kilkenny marble in many of the rooms.

Upon arrival at Roundwood House, home-made biscuits, tea and coffee are served in the drawing room, followed by a walking tour of the land and the outbuildings, usually accompanied by an extra tour guide, Rococo, the Flynn family dog, a floppy yellow lab, named after an Arcade Fire song. She who knows the route by heart and may just nudge you back on course should you stray from the itinerary.

A popular destination for weekenders from Dublin, Roundwood House also provides the opportunity for immersion in Irish life by providing communal dining.

Breakfast is a Full Irish or vegetarian option and in the evening, guests are treated to a five-course dinner by Paddy, who acts as chef, as well as owner.

ON THESE PAGES: At Roundwood House, the attention to detail is never overly fussy; Rococo the dog is an essential member of the Flynn family.

“At first the idea of communal dining made me nervous,” says Hannah, “like I was throwing a party every night and would my guests enjoy it. But it’s proven to be one of the features everybody loves.” While she’s in the kitchen, she’ll hear the sounds of laughter, as people who have just met become old friends across the dinner table.

With so much woodland to explore, the house is surrounded by walking paths filled with mature trees and wild grass paths lined by daffodils, bluebells, cornflower, fuchsia, rhododendron and lilac, all set amidst serene vistas.

“People always remark on how quiet the place is,” says Hannah. “We’re set quite far from anything else.” Indeed, the nearest town is five kilometres away and there are, quite purposefully, no televisions in the rooms.

Venturing off the property, there are eco walks through the nearby Slieve Bloom, the most unspoiled mountain range in Ireland. Extensive trails wind through woodland and forestry, by rivers and waterfalls and over blanket bog covered in beautiful brown, purple and green wild heather. There are looping walking paths and trails for every level of hiker.

Then it’s back to Roundwood for pre-dinner drinks in the drawing room and your five-course dinner. Your sixth course? A song. Performed in the dining room by the chef himself, Paddy, along with his sous chef Ted, a fellow musician who came to Roundwood for a visit and never left. You may not want to either. Rooms from $165/night. roundwoodhouse.com —JANE COOPER FORD

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AG E N DA | T R AV E L T WO WAY S

HISTORY IN HAMPI THE REMAINS OF ANCIENT KINGDOMS

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Photos by Rohan Sood

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estled on the banks of River Tungabhadra in southern India, the legendary town of Hampi was founded several centuries ago. The capital of the Vijayanagara empire, at its peak in 1500, was the second richest city in the world, behind only Beijing. The rulers fostered developments in intellectual pursuits and the arts, maintained a strong military and fought many wars with empires to its north and east. Hampi attracted traders and travellers from far and wide, its grandeur ultimately drawing conquerors from within the Indian subcontinent. Islamic sultanates looted and pillaged the city for several months at a time, carrying away gold and jewels on the backs of horses and elephants.

These days, Hampi attracts visitors more interested in history and scenic grandeur than looting. Accessible by car and train from Bangalore and Hyderabad (the closest train station is in the town of Hospet, a 13-kilometre drive away), visitors find themselves in a vast collection of ancient structures that seems lost in time. Carved from gigantic rocks hauled from nearby hills, and set against a backdrop of dusty and rocky terrain, Hampi’s fascinating architecture, composed of some 1,000 monuments, offers a taste of kingdoms long gone.

Although most temples were ravaged and destroyed, the Virupaksha Temple remains intact and is the only one where you can still see locals worship idols from centuries past. The chimes from the temple bells ring as devotees pray surrounded by smoke and fragrance from hundreds of incense sticks. The 16th-century Vittal temple was never completed, but what was constructed is widely regarded as the pinnacle of Southern Indian architecture. Its outer “musical” pillars, designed to replicate 81 different Indian instruments, reverberate when tapped. Its ornate stone chariot, one of only three stone carved chariots in India, is so widely revered that it is depicted on India’s 50-rupee note. One can only wonder how the kings and queens of the time would have lived out their days here.

About five kilometres away, the manicured lawns of the Zenana enclosure feel like an oasis amid the arid landscape. One of the most intricate structures here, it was built as a secluded area reserved for royal women and its unique buildings are designed in the Indo-Islamic style of architecture to reflect the secular outlook of the rulers of the Vijayanagara. Exteriors are topped with large domes and there is an extensive use of arches; both features were rarely used in Hindu temple architecture elsewhere.

Just across the river from the main historical site, Hampi’s Boulders Resort is the most luxurious stay in the area. Its 16 cottages, all purposely Wi-Fi-free, provide access to nature walks. The path cuts across the hills around the resort. Crossing streams on bamboo bridges, if you listen carefully, you might also hear distant calls of peacocks, India’s national bird. hampisboulders.com

ADVENTURE IN LADAKH – by Rohan Sood –

HIGH ALTITUDES AND STARRY SKIES

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ituated at India’s northern frontiers, Ladakh is a mountainous province of the state of Jammu and Kashmir and sits deep within the lap of the Himalayas. The clear skies and vast landscapes give the place an other-worldly aura, while its people, delightful cuisine and the general pace of life are not found anywhere else in the subcontinent. You will not jostle for room on the sidewalks nor be pestered to buy pashmina shawls.

Known as the world’s third pole because of its vast packs of glacial ice, Ladakh’s scenic and untouched landscapes provide a playground for some of the most challenging and exciting outdoor activities in the world, from trekking, mountaineering and rafting to aero sports like paragliding and hang gliding. As you glide over Ladakhi valleys, you will catch glimpses of ice capped mountains, gushing rivers as well as dusty deserts.

Motorbike aficionados must ride some its highaltitude roads. The Chang La mountain pass is among the highest motorable passes in the world, while the dwarfing views of the Ladakhi Valley draws riders from around the globe. Seemingly never-ending roads wind around the mountains and are dotted with monasteries, waterfalls and rivulets. Don’t be surprised if you see wild horses, yaks and marmots along the way.

At about 3,000 metres, the village of Hundar sits in a high-altitude Himalayan desert, complete with camels and sand dunes. With a sparse population, this area has some of the darkest skies in India and attracts nighttime-sky photographers from around the world. One could spend countless hours gazing into vastness, connecting celestial dots and spotting shooting stars.

Likir Monastery, a Buddhist monastery about 55 kilometres west of Ladakh’s capital, Leh, sits picturesquely on a little hill in the valley and is home to more than 100 monks. Besides being the oldest monastery in the region, Likir monastery is also popular for its 23-metre Buddha statue that’s worth a visit.

Precious artifacts made in gold and silver, as well as numerous rare paintings, round out the monastery’s museum collection.

Although there are national flights to Leh, it’s not easy to get to Ladakh. But that’s part of the charm, as are the colourful accommodation options.

Ladakh offers some of the most regal stays in the world. Stok Palace Heritage Hotel, built in 1822, still serves as the summertime abode of the Namgyal dynasty. Its Queen’s Room, recreated to resemble Ladakh’s erstwhile Queen’s quarters with curios and photographs, gives visitors the feeling of being immersed in centuries-old local history. You can even hear the roar the mighty Indus River as it flows past the valley’s Alpine vegetation. stokpalaceheritage.com BOLD

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AGENDA | DRINK

G’DAY,

YERBA MATE! – by Diana Spechler –

In Argentina’s chic capital, this distinctive tea, and the ritual that comes with it, is nothing less than an obsession

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t’s hard to imagine a city as tied to a drink as Buenos Aires is to mate. Dried yerba mate leaves plus hot water make a tea that will pump you full of mateine—similar to caffeine, but healthier and without those addictive properties. If you wander through Buenos Aires, you’ll see mate drinkers everywhere, their thermoses and little gourds in hand. But as a tourist, it’s hard to know how to get in on it. There are two reasons for that: For one thing, mate drinking is intimate and somewhat mundane. People do it at home with their families, in the parks with their friends and at the office with their colleagues. For another thing, there’s so much ritual surrounding the making and drinking of mate, it’s intimidating for outsiders to attempt it. But there are a few ways travellers can grab a seat at the table.

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First thing’s first: Sign up for mate brand Mathienzo’s Mate Experience.

Plug in the date, time and number of people in your group into the website, and a local mate guru will meet you to teach you everything you need to know. You’ll learn how to prepare it with precision, how to share it properly, how the mate ritual is different in Syria (where it’s also popular) and how to use the gourd-shaped container (also called a “mate”) with the metal straw (the bombilla). You’ll be able to ask all of your mate questions as you pass the mate around. ba.tours

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The Buenos Aires cocktail trend has seen new bars popping up all over the city. If you like to get perky and tipsy at the same time, order a mate cocktail.

At Florería Atlántico, try the Clericos No. 6, made from Apóstoles Mate gin, yerba mate, grapefruit and tonic. At Shout Brasas & Drinks, the bartender will serve you a cocktail made from green tea, gin, lemonade and huacatay (a local herb) in a mate with a bombilla. floreriaatlantico.com.ar; shoutbar.com.ar

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Every Sunday for nearly 50 years, people have strolled through the sprawling San Telmo Fair, a street bazaar that has grown to cover 13 blocks of the hip San Telmo neighbourhood.

You can buy art, crafts, wares and antiques from locals who set up stands.

You’ll see people dancing tango, street performers breaking up the foot traffic and tons of porteños pulling out their mate thermoses and passing them around. San Telmo Fair is a great place to go to buy all your mate souvenirs.

You’ll find a wide selection of mates in different materials (you can get your name engraved on a wooden one), mate thermoses and special bags designed to hold them and, of course, loose-leaf yerba mate.

There are plenty of reasons to stay at Nuss Hotel, among them flawless service, gorgeous rooms and a great location: It’s smack in the middle of the trendy Palermo Soho neighbourhood, a part of Buenos Aires crammed with cute cafés, boutiques, bars and some of the city’s best street art. But one more reason is the mate service included with the breakfast. nusshotel.com

And for a nightcap It’s nighttime, you’re done with mate, but you’d like to keep imbibing in Buenos Aires style. Vermouth is the city’s latest wine trend, thanks to Argentina’s huge Italian population. Check out La Fuerza, where you can drink red or white vermouth with large ice cubes, a little soda and a slice of orange. Or head to Vico Wine Bar, where the food is top-notch and the wine, including vermouth, is flowing from taps that line the walls. lafuerza.com.ar; vicowinebar.com.ar BOLD

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AGENDA | FOOD DIARIES

1. We’ve kept bees here for about four years. We do our own honey at the restaurant—maybe about 15 litres a year—and we depend on the bees to pollinate the garden. I often say in the kitchen that bees are really hard workers, as I’m trying to get the boys and the girls on the same page in a very hard industry, working together likes bees do to bring a beautiful result. I’ve been stung by the bees a few times. It is what it is. When [our beekeeper] opens the hives, we’re usually just in aprons. Our beekeeper has a company called Berg-En-Dal, so when we need more we try to buy from him.

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Local

Chef YANNICK LASALLE draws inspiration from around the world, but doesn’t like to go far from the Pontiac for ingredients

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hen he won the 2019 Canadian Culinary Championships in February, nobody was as surprised as chef Yannick LaSalle himself. “My philosophy was to go out there and enjoy every moment, which I think earned us some brownie points,” says the sweetnatured man who’s helmed the kitchen at Les Fougères in Chelsea, Quebec, since 2011. Before settling back in the Pontiac region where he grew up, LaSalle travelled extensively, working at Michelin-starred restaurants in New York, California and France. Although he declares, “if I was a single man I’d still be gone and travelling the world,” he and his hometownsweetheart fiancée have recently managed to visit foodie mecca Peru (his choice) and are heading this fall to Morocco (her choice), where he’ll be checking out the spices and tagine dishes. Next spring, they’re likely off to Africa as part of the championship prize. LaSalle’s global curiosity is tempered by his focus on local produce, including herbs from the restaurant’s own garden, and sustainability. His winning signature dish employed local fennel, local sea buckthorn, Quebec saffron and duck breast from the Eastern townships, cured for 24 hours and hung to dry for two weeks. All ingredients have the capacity to help get Quebecers through the long winter months. —PAUL GALLANT

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2. The top of the beet got exposed to the sun, which is why it’s two colours.

I used that beet for a regional dish for the Canadian Culinary Championships.

It’s beautiful so I feel sad to say that we grated it and pressed it down with a little bit of duck jelly to make it almost a terrine, so they were little cubes sitting on top of duck prosciutto, with black garlic mustard.

Served with little potato chips from the garden.

3. Sara and I have been going out for 10 years now.

She grew up in the Pontiac in a different village, but we went to the same high school. Working in this industry is very hard for a relationship. She’s been very generous in giving me the opportunity to live my passion. I couldn’t be happier.

She brings me the right balance. Since she’s often alone at home, we decided to get a dog, Shiraz, like the wine. It’s a mixture between a hound dog and a beagle.

The photo is taken in the backyard of the restaurant.

4. That’s a little piece of Arctic char with endives, which was our gold-metal plate that brought us second place last year. There’s a nice story to it because we were using my family’s maple syrup. The char is slowly cooked and served with local squash, the maple syrup and cranberries from just outside the village. They had just harvested the cranberries and the char was just coming off the boat. It’s on one of the rocks sitting in the garden.

6. Those are salt pans in Peru, close to Cuzco, which we saw when we were out on a day tour. It was very satisfying to learn how salt is cultivated since we cook with it every day. Just to see the landscape and the hard work that goes into it. I brought some bags to use it at home.

I’ll bring it into the restaurant to use for the classic Peruvian ceviche. I got to spend a day learning how to make it the Peruvian way. I thought the marinade was just citrus, but they’ll do leche de tigre, which will blend celery, garlic, chilis, ginger and a lot of lime juice.

5. That’s our winning dish, the fennel with duck and sea buckthorn. We juiced all the scraps to make a mignonette with the sea buckthorn, which we picked off one of the cook’s grandmother’s trees in the fall. We froze the berries to keep them for the winter. There’s some duck skin on top with some toasted hazelnuts and hazelnut oil.

7. These are the owners of the restaurant, and my mentors. Charles Part and Jennifer Warren-Part. They came into my life 12 years ago when I was working two or three jobs and came here for extra work. We have a great friendship between us. They’re in their 60s and they’re here every day. Very hard workers, very fair and great bosses.

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AGENDA | LOCAL EXPERT

FUNNYCONFLUENCE NAMED AFTER THE MUDDY MERGING OF TWO RIVERS, K UA L A L U M P U R H A S G R O W N I N TO A G L E A M I N G M E T R O P O L I S OF GOURMET AND GLAMOUR. C O M E D I A N DO U G L A S L I M G I V E S U S A TO U R

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hough he’s based in the Malaysian capital of Kuala Lumpur, Douglas Lim started out doing comedy in English before trying to be funny in his native Malay. “You can’t just translate jokes. For example, the Malay language is a syllabic language, so words become very long,” he says. “Instead of two syllables for ‘thank you,’ ‘terima kasih’ is five syllables, so it affects the timing.” A recent run at the Melbourne International Comedy Festival, followed by a stint on stage in New York, has kept him on the move, but he still loves to explore his hometown. “It’s similar to Singapore, but not as sterile. It’s tourist-friendly like Bangkok, but not as extreme.” A visitor who hadn’t seen the place in a while might get lost easily. “KL is constantly undergoing some form of development. There’s always digging going on somewhere.” In his own words, here are Lim’s recommendations for visitors.

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H OT E L Personally, I like The Majestic Hotel Kuala Lumpur. The original building was one of the first classic hotels in the country. It’s a national heritage site. It’s got British colonial architecture, so it’s like you’re back in the 1930s. There’s a smoke house and they’ve got a massive ballroom.

It’s close to our old train station, so it’s a real piece of our history. majestickl.com C A S U A L E AT S Yut Kee Restaurant. When the British showed up here, they brought with them people from China called the Hainanese. The men were known as excellent chefs and would cook for the British when they were our colonial masters. They’d do Britishstyle food with local ingredients.

Yut Kee’s owner is a descendent of these Hainanese chefs. The food is delicious, quite affordable and served to you in no time. Be prepared to line up.

FINE DINING D.C. The chef is Darren Chin, who is Cordon Bleu-trained. It’s French fusion. He takes a lot of pride and care and sources local produce. The food is explained when it’s brought out—the whole sheh-bang. restaurant-dc.com

C O C K TA I L S & S H E S H A Canopy is a rooftop bar and lounge, about six storeys up, overlooking the city. Shesha and drinks. Very helpful staff. I had friends from Australia who came and they spent almost every night of their stay there. People sit around in groups, enjoying the breeze and the city lights. It’s a chill place. canopylounge.my COMEDY There are two main comedy venues in KL. You can’t ask me to pick one!

They’re both my friends! The first is called Crackhouse, which is a bit more raw, a bit more street, with the comedians up against a brick wall.

The other is The Joke Factory, which is more upmarket, a bit more polished in its design. crackhousecomedy.asia; thejokefactory.com.my AT T R A C T I O N What else? The Petronas Twin Towers. They give you the same feeling as going to Times Square because you felt you’ve seen them already. You can’t escape them.

Visitors can go up to the bridge that connects the two towers. petronastwintowers.com.my

NEIGHBOURHOOD I would have to say Bangsar. It’s rich people. Most of the expats live there. The area knows what it is, so it’s filled with bars and family restaurants and all types of food in all price ranges. There are three streets just packed with bars and eateries and ice cream parlours and dessert shops. It’s not cultural, like a Chinatown. People go there after work, go for brunch, for lunch.

G R E E N S PA C E If you’re into nature, visit the Forest Research Institute Malaysia, which is about a 40-minute drive from downtown. There’s a nice trail so you won’t get lost, a nice canopy walk.

People go for picnics. frim.gov.my EVENTS If you are looking for a lot of flashbang, then Chinese New Year is great. You’ll see dragons here, a lion there, a guy on stilts, guys playing drums. It’s very in your face. Or come for Thaipusam, which is a Hindu festival where you will see the craziest rituals. A guy walking on hot coals or a guy puncturing his cheek with a spear but there’s not blood. It usually happens in early February.

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AGENDA | GLOBETROTTER

AROUND THE WORLD WITH activist, artist and TV host

Sarain Fox

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n Anishinaabe activist, artist and host of two TV shows—RISE on Viceland and Future History on the Aboriginal Peoples Television Network—Sarain Fox personifies what it is to be multifaceted. She has spoken out, not only on issues facing Canada’s Indigenous peoples, but has also worked with Indigenous peoples further afield. As a partner with the TreadRight Foundation, a not-for-profit dedicated to making travel matter by safeguarding the people, planet and wildlife for generations to come, Fox recently visited Australia to help set up a new partnership with the KARI Foundation, whose Aboriginal unit provides travellers immersive Indigenous experiences to offer a better understanding and appreciation for the culture and community. During her time Down Under, she met with Australian Aboriginals to compare stories, traditions and discuss similarities between their lands. Sarain is also the ambassador to the Manitobah Mukluks Storyboot School, The TreadRight Foundation’s first North American project, which hosts mukluk- and moccasin-making classes at Toronto’s Bata Shoe Museum. A portion of the proceeds go to artists. manitobah.ca

Where in the world have you felt happiest?

I feel happiest anywhere on land that’s connected to nature.

No matter where my travels bring me, I can always find home among the fauna and flora.

helping to inspire other young Australian Aboriginals to do the same.

His wealth of knowledge and humble wisdom was beyond inspiring. He also comes from a dance background like me, which he left behind to accept the responsibility of “song man” for his people.

To get away from it all, I go to: Lake Superior, one of the largest and deepest lakes in the world, which is also the lake of my homelands. I grew up on the shores of the Superior and my ancestors have lived here for thousands of years.

What trip-of-a-lifetime lies ahead for you?

Exploring Australia’s Outback, for the first time ever, with Contiki!

I’m excited to connect with local, unique and authentic travel experiences this destination has to offer, including spending time with a local Aboriginal family at Pudakul in the Northern Territory and learning about the various Dreamtime Stories.

What’s the one thing you pack for every trip?

A 35mm film camera. Because it’s not instant. You bring the memories home on a roll of film and as you develop them you get to relive the trip in a beautiful, tangible way.

What’s your essential item for making travel more comfortable?

Moccasins. Either a pair made by an Indigenous artist or anything by Manitobah Mukluks.

“My Inuit brothers and sisters are connected to the land unlike anywhere else in the world”

What’s your pet travel peeve?

When people claim to be “experts.” Be curious, respect the locals and be open to learning and changing your perspective.

Which is your road most travelled?

The road from Toronto to my Indigenous community along Highway 400.

I lost my heart in….

Hawai’i. The Big Island specifically. It will always be one of my most favourite places.

What do you hope to achieve by travelling?

Connection—to the land and the original people.

What’s the place you were most nervous about visiting?

China. Visiting this country brought me out of my comfort zone in more ways than one. But in the end, I was so happy I took the risk. I met so many incredible people and it was a trip of so many monumental experiences.

Which travel experience most changed your worldview and why?

Being in the high Arctic of Canada, Inuit territory, changed my life. My Inuit brothers and sisters are connected to the land unlike anywhere else in the world. They survive in the coldest places with the warmest hearts.

Who is your favourite travelling companion?

That’s a tough one. My partner or my mom.

Tell us about a time when you got lost and what you learned from it.

I get lost pretty easily, sometimes by choice and sometimes by accident. Part of travelling means being vulnerable and asking for help.

Sometimes you make new friends because of it or find things you didn’t know you were looking for!

Who is the most interesting person you’ve met on your travels?

Darren Compton, the senior cultural officer at the KARI Foundation’s Cultural Unit, who I had the absolute pleasure of meeting when I was recently in Australia. Darren is a young Aboriginal man who has been actively reclaiming his culture and

If you could live in any other city in the world (other than your own), which one would it be and why?

Although I am forever inspired and fuelled by travel, my heart will always be rooted in my homelands. I wouldn’t want to live anywhere other than home.

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AGENDA | CRUISE

THE GREATEST SHOWBOATS C R U I S E L I N E S A R E TA K I N G E N T E R TA I N M E N T M O R E S E R I O U S L Y THAN EVER, REPORTS LIZ FLEMING. THE RESULTS C A N B E — D A R E W E S AY I T ? — C OO L

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The AquaTheatre on Royal Caribbean’s Harmony of the Seas.

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AGENDA | CRUISE

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he name of the show was Beatles Around the World and for the first few songs, it was watchable, in a made-for-grandma-and-grandpa kind of way. Gorgeous young performers swirled across the stage in shimmery costumes designed to make them look mildly sexy but wholesome overall— the kind you’d want your unmarried, adult grandchildren to meet. They sang “Ob-La-Di ObLa-Da” as scenes of a German beer garden filled the screen behind them, then switched to “Back in the U.S.S.R.” with shots of Saint Petersburg.

Then came the opening bars of “Strawberry Fields Forever.” We watched, gobsmacked, as women in kimonos with white powdered faces appeared, shuffled back and forth, and sang in weird high-pitched wails. Our teenage sons lost their grip and, stifling explosive laughter, bolted for the door. We followed.

In the decade since that cruise, entertainment afloat has undergone, well, a sea change. Now, every night is a hit, with ocean cruise lines such as Royal Caribbean, Disney and Norwegian offering guests full-on, professional Broadway productions such as Jersey Boys, Mamma Mia! and Tangled: The Musical, along with top-tier musicians, magicians and comedians. Italian cruise line MSC has joined the trend by forming a partnership with Cirque du Soleil, improving their main stage productions exponentially.

Now, the industry’s key players are investing real thought, talent and money in their entertainment offerings. For passengers, that means more opportunities to genuinely connect with what’s on stage, and fewer shows where you have to grin and bear it till bedtime.

“The Rolling Stone Rock Room targets serious rock fans”

ON THE OPPOSITE PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Royal Caribbean’s Harmony of the Seas; Eden Lounge on Celebrity Edge; the moon goddess Luna carries a tune on the Celebrity Edge; La Terrazza on Silverseas’ Silver Wind; Holland America’s Rolling Stone Rock Room; Celebrity Edge’s Eden Lounge; a nibble aboard a Silversea cruise; Razzle Dazzle is home to Virgin Voyages’ drag brunches; a Royal Caribbean escape room.

GAME FACE

Carnival Cruise Line was ahead of the curve, introducing Hasbro, The Game Show in 2011, an innovative, interactive attraction that’s pulling audience members to the stage in droves to play life-size versions of Hasbro games such as Operation, Simon, Connect Four and Yahtzee, using giant bowling pins and basketball hoops. If you like a challenge, Royal Caribbean’s Harmony of the Seas has put its own spin on interactive entertainment with Escape the Rubicon, an escape-room game featuring a spaceship setting and outer-space theme, while Celebrity’s Edge offers the innovative Eden venue, a three-deck space with a restaurant, lounge and theatre. There, costumed performers called “Edenists” invite guests to join in a dance or game, while aerialists perform overhead.

ALL THAT JAZZ

Supper clubs that feature outstanding dining experiences and live bands and dancing during the meal are now a hot commodity on the seas. Try Crystal Cruises’ Stardust Supper Club aboard the Serenity and let the ship’s Show Band or Ballroom Dance Quartet take you back to the era of Frank Sinatra’s Rat Pack. If you’re a fan of Silversea Cruises, you’ll love the supper club experience aboard Silver Muse, where guests are treated to a tapas-style menu while being entertained by jazz and blues musicians. Every table has a great view of the stage and there’s a small dance floor where you can take a spin between courses.

YOU BETTER WERK

Evening entertainment is heating up on the rivers, too, with lines like U River Cruises and Virgin Voyages presenting drag shows with big name performers such as Darienne Lake and Jiggly Caliente. Inspired? You can learn to make yourself up in drag, then hit the stage for a karaoke performance and go on a bar crawl ashore with your mentors. On other nights, you’ll find world-renowned DJs spinning and local musicians coming aboard for live live performances.

PAPA WAS A ROLLING STONE

Because my husband and I are creatures of the night, we’re always looking for evening fun. On one recent, wonderful cruise on Holland America’s Koningsdam, we found rock ’n’ roll heaven. Holland America Line’s newest venue, the Rolling Stone Rock Room, a partnership with the venerable Rolling Stone magazine, is quickly making their ships among the most entertaining at sea. Part of their famed Music Walk lineup, the Rolling Stone Rock Room targets serious rock fans. For three sets per night, a genuine, gritty rock band (not a hint of swirly fabric in sight) plays Rolling Stone-approved classic rock—and it’s pure bliss.

“Innovative and authentic music experiences are at the heart of all our entertainment offerings and is what distinguishes us in the industry.

Classic rock appeals to people across generations because the music is universal, and Rolling Stone Rock Room brings another incredible live music venue to our ships,” says Orlando Ashford, president and CEO of Holland America Line.

The rock ’n’ roll-style lounge joins the Music Walk lineup of the Lincoln Center Stage (a classical music venue), B.B. King’s Blues Club (featuring everything from classic jazz to Motown and more), and Billboard on Board (duelling piano bar) onboard the line’s Pinnacle-class ships. The Music Walk concept first debuted aboard the Koningsdam in 2016, but individual venues have rolled out to other ships over the past few years. With a rotating schedule designed to ensure that one 45-minute performance ends just as two others begin, the Music Walk keeps guests singing, dancing, rocking and rolling all night.

Thanks to ideas like these, cruise lovers may never again be treated to white-face “Strawberry Fields Forever.”

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21 potent plant extracts concentrated in a unique double formula that boost the skin’s 5 vital functions: regeneration, oxygenation, nutrition, hydration, protection.

Suitable for all ages and skin types

After 7 days: • instant radiance • reduced pores and fine lines • visibly youngerlooking skin*

Worldwide bestseller.

Available in Clarins boutiques, perfumeries, department stores and on Clarins.com. *Satisfaction test – multi-ethnic panel – 362 women.

It’s all about you.

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STYLE REPORT

FASHION-FORWARD NOTES FOR THE SEASON EDITORS, VICTORIA BASS AND MARLON MORENO

SOLE MATES C

Photo by Tishan Baldeo

lick your heels together three times and say, “there is no place like home.”

Or in this case, perhaps you might want to be in Barcelona. Or Biarritz. Of course, if home is Barcelona or Beijing—or even B.C., or a home away from home just for a holiday, you’re ready to walk the walk in these sensational Chelsea Firewood boots

by Maison Patina. The affordable-luxury retailer is best-known in Europe for its calfleather shoes constructed with Goodyear soles. So you can tread softly, just with a gentle traveller’s footprint.

You’ll want to wear them out, where they can be seen. Since 1998, Loding has been knocking out solid, dependable brogues and boots; the sort that would see you right for promenades in Saint-Germain-desPrès, lunch in Chicago or dinner in Toronto.

They’re Meg Ryan meets Tom Hanks in You’ve Got Mail or Demi Moore meets Patrick Swayze in Ghost—the perfect soul mates. And this fall, we’re going to wear them everywhere we go, clicking our heels together and hoping for adventure, whether home or away from home, with our perfect soul mate. $700, loding.ca

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B O L D S T Y L E | W H AT T O P A C K

WHERE ARE WE GOING NEXT?

MILAN, ITALY THE TREND: Military musings WHY GO NOW? The city’s mix of business-meets-pleasure ticks all the boxes BOOK IT: Bvlgari Hotel Milan

A model walks the runway at the Fendi show at Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2019/20

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GIVENCHY Rouge Interdit lipstick, No. 20 Shadow Pink, $42, sephora.com

KAPITAL Printed cottonjersey T-shirt, $140, mrporter.com

We Salute You

E GUCCI Belted wool jumpsuit, $4,700, gucci.com

nlist this… fashion’s current penchant for military goes beyond utilitarian.

Camouflage prints, desert-storm khakis— from sandy beige to olive drab—flightschool jumpsuits and stand-at-attention details such as brass buttons, parachute, D-ring buckle belts and combat boots made for walking the walk, are giving this trend its marching orders.

For day, the urban warrior will be all business, inspired by Milan’s industrious side. Then mix it up with a take-no-prisoners attitude for evening, or soften it up with bow-tie blouses, satin and knits—with a bit of denim for the boys thrown in.

One of Europe’s leading finance hubs, Milan draws visitors in with its after-five appeal: some of the best restaurants in foodie-centric Northern Italy; its historic significance as exhibited in its Duomo di Milano cathedral—an outstanding example of Italian Gothic architecture—and the Santa Maria delle Grazie convent, where you can take in the artist Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece “The Last Supper;” and, of course, being one of the major fashion capitals of the world (think HQ for the likes of Prada, Gucci and Armani). The shopping, particularly in the Quadrilatero d’Oro, is unmatched.

FEAR OF GOD Belted pleated cotton-twill cargo trousers, $1,060, mrporter.com

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Tiziano Calfskin Sneakers, $1,298, harryrosen.com

TRAVEL ESSENTIAL CLARINS Jolie Blush Enriched with plant extracts like hazelnut oil, this is our go-to blush for a pop of colour, and to keep our cheeks hydrated and protected throughout the day! $33, clarins.ca

VICTORIA BECKHAM Eva Cross-Body Bag, $2,700, victoriabeckham.com

ROBERTO CAVALLI Snake earrings, $550, robertocavalli.com

LONGCHAMP La Voyageuse Bag, $1,300, longchamp.com

JIMMY CHOO Beyla 85 snake-printed leather ankle bootie, $1,275, us.jimmychoo.com BOLD

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WHERE ARE WE GOING NEXT?

UTAH, USA WHAT TO WEAR? Elemental ease WHY GO NOW? The mind, body and soul restorative nature of Red Rock country BOOK IT: Amangiri Resort, Canyon Point

Fatou Jobe walks the runway at the Zimmermann Fall/Winter 2019 Fashion Show.

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SCALA Straw Panama hat, $181, nordstrom.com

DOLCE & GABBANA Tropical scenery slimfit printed T-shirt, $745, mrporter.com

Lady of the Canyon

T VICTORIA BECKHAM Leather biker jacket, $3,950, victoriabeckham.com

TRAVEL ESSENTIAL CLARINS Rose Radiance Cream Combining seven plant extracts and three glowboosting ingredients, the Super Restorative Rose Radiance Cream targets dull, ageing complexions, especially those suffering from dryness, pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles. 50ml, $126, clarins.ca

The heat is on. The butte-lined desert scape of Utah stands its neutral ground against the sun, the sand and the scrub, but serves as inspiration to the swirls and whirls of the runway’s obsession with inspiredby-the-elements tones. Long, duster-style coats are reminiscent of Clint Eastwood riding through the canyons; sheer, gauzy skirts and shirt-dresses catch the breeze and graze the ankles à la Westworld, and pants have deep pockets—all the better to stow your necessary cargo. Patterns flow over fabric like undulating dunes or rushing rivers; chocolate and charcoal, stone and sand, pale blue and the earthy ochre of a fiery desert sunset is the colour palette. White is the base element, whether a bathing suit, a strappy flat sandal or an SPFblocking hat.

Men also enjoy their creature comforts, where streetwear and activewear come together seamlessly. Amangiri is remote, as remote as this part of Utah itself. But don’t call this a retreat. It is of the landscape, not an intrusion; a quiet escape at one with the natural world it shares. Now that you’re grounded, just breathe.

RAG & BONE Drake army green pants, $390, rag-bone.com

CHLOÉ Nomade Eau de Parfum, 30ml, $89, sephora.com

MULBERRY Tony Pilot Sunglasses, $335, mulberry.com/ca REDVALENTINO High-waisted pleated belted shorts, $650, saksfifthavenue.com

LOEWE Paula flat sandals with braided pattern, $750, CLARINS loewe.com ClarinsMen Super Moisture Balm, 50ml, $39, thebay.com BOLD

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B O L D S T Y L E | W H AT T O P A C K

WHERE ARE WE GOING NEXT?

KYOTO, JAPAN WHAT TO WEAR? Midnight in the Garden WHY GO NOW? The quieter sister of Tokyo, steeped in tradition and beauty BOOK IT: Suiran Hotel, Kyoto

A model walks the runway at the Dolce & Gabbana show at Milan Fashion Week Autumn/ Winter 2019/20.

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ISABEL BENENATO Mohair-blend sweater in red, yellow, black and white, $726, mrporter.com

ZARA Camel-colour pants with contrasting side stripe, $80, zara.com

Asiatic Lily

W PRADA Frankenstein-inspired, camp-collar printed shirt, $1,425, mrporter.com

DOLCE & GABBANA Lily-print cashmere and modal scarf, $710, dolcegabbana.com

hen darkness falls this fall, it will no doubt be the backdrop for drama.

Oversized blooms, floral prints and garden party patterns that come to life, with a black canvas as their paramour. This is no wallflower trend; it’s feminine meets femme fatale. A hint of lace here, a ruffle there, a bit of chiffon or hard-edged leather thrown into the mix, but the flowers never fade or wilt; they’re a standout way to take on the softer, more spirited city of Kyoto. Known for its otherworldly beauty—in the surroundings, the temples, the gardens and the geishas—Kyoto has long been a place that sparks the imagination. Cherry blossoms, the Golden Temple (also known as Kinkakuji), the ethereal Bamboo Forest and the spectacular views from Kiyomizu-dera Temple are the perfect location for this trend. Anchored by black tights, flats by day, booties or heels by night, this flower power look goes from gyoza dumplings and a tea ceremony to a geisha performance and a karaoke-fuelled night on the town. Kanpai!

JUDITH LEIBER COUTURE Garland clutch, $5,180, modaoperandi.com

TRAVEL ESSENTIAL CLARINS Double Serum Powered by 20 potent plant extracts plus the star ingredient, turmeric, and high-tech molecules, this multitasking serum creates visibly firmer, more radiant, younger-looking skin in as little as one week.

50ml, $125, clarins.ca

DRIES VAN NOTEN Dizan floral print long-sleeve silk dress, $1,982, nordstrom.com

SAPTODJOJOKARTIKO Embellished sling-back flats, $635, modaoperandi.com

TED BAKER Heddila small suitcase, $499, tedbaker.com BOLD

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WHERE ARE WE GOING NEXT?

DUBAI, UAE WHAT TO WEAR? Sparkle plenty WHY GO NOW? The City of Gold is an oasis in the desert where there are no limits BOOK IT: Raffles Dubai

JIMMY CHOO Callie nude suede clutch bag with pearls, $3,450, us.jimmychoo.com

Molten Moment

A TOM FORD Rose Gold Shimmering Oil, 100ml, $122, holtrenfrew.com PACO RABANNE 1 Million Eau de Toilette spray, 100ml, $108, thebay.com

ll that glitters? In Dubai, it’s the skyscrapers, reaching up to kiss the clouds, glinting like diamonds in the sun.

Think the Burj Khalifa, which holds court over the famed Dubai fountain, its dancing jets of choreographed water rivaled only by those of the Bellagio, in another desert diamond, Las Vegas.

But on terra firma, there is history, modernity and a mix of business and tourism that’s gold. Palm Jumeirah is a marvel, a man-made island shaped, yes, like a palm that stretches its fronds just so over the waters of the Arabian Gulf. The nomad will take the city in metallics that shine on, from gold to silver to platinum and bronze, adding the bling factor to dresses, suits, vests—even culottes. Male followers of fashion will navigate the oasis in airy technical fabrics in copper and pearl—perfect for that desert safari. Think rock ’n’ roll nights, silver sequins, a mother lode of liquid satin and studded knits and lace. Tailored suits get the next level treatment, shot with burnished threads. Shine on, you crazy diamond.

GUCCI Textured metal necklace, $3,400, gucci.com

TRAVEL ESSENTIAL CLARINS Plant Gold L’Or des Plantes The first oil-emulsion from Clarins combines the iconic Blue Orchid Treatment Oil with a 100 per cent natural-origin melting emulsion. The ingredients blend together on application to create a lightweight, non-oily texture with a natural aromatic fragrance, helping to deeply nourish, soften and leave skin supple. $68, clarins.ca

GUERLAIN Terracotta Khol Loose Powder Eyeliner, $54, sephora.com

GIVENCHY Urban Street metallic leather sneakers, $990, holtrenfrew.com

BOTTEGA VENETA Satin dress in chalk and champagne, $4,882, bottegaveneta.com

TATEOSSIAN LONDON Geode stone cufflinks, $665, harryrosen.com BOLD

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WHERE ARE WE GOING NEXT?

OSLO, NORWAY WHAT TO WEAR? Warm and fuzzy WHY GO NOW? Scandi-modern chic, viking-vibe, capital-city cool BOOK IT: The Thief Hotel, Oslo

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VICTORIA BECKHAM Pocket detail crewneck, $1,400, victoriabeckham.com

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI High pleated waist, cuffed ankle pants, $2,365, brunellocucinelli.com

Getting Fleeced CAROLINA HERRERA Good Girl Eau de Parfum Légère, 50ml, $122, sephora.com

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS CLARINS Everlasting Youth Foundation You’ll love the ultra-sensorial texture of Everlasting Youth Fluid, which is both creamy yet lightweight. Composed of plumping konjac micropearls, nourishing argan oil and skin-tightening organic oat sugars, it helps restore firmer, fuller, smoother skin. $56, clarins.ca

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inter is coming. We’ve been in love with puffy down coats over the past few seasons—even the Michelin-man-oversized parkas have had their moment. But now there’s a new kid in town. Blame it on one of the nastiest cold-weather stretches in years (or the Game of Thrones phenomenon) and we’re suddenly all about getting cozy. Colour-blocked fuzzy sweaters, sherpa-inspired bomber jackets and curly-textured coats, with nods to shearling and Mongolian lamb, are showing up in all manner of fleece fabrications just in time to layer up for autumn. The allure of the north comes naturally in Oslo, where adventurers can satiate their appetites for crisp days, cool nights and the Northern Lights. This is the land that spawned the mythological gods Odin and Thor, a Viking history that still intrigues us to this day, and legends of the kings that built the Akershus Fortress, a medieval castle from 1299 that still stands today. The sculptor Gustav Vigeland is celebrated here, a contemporary of the likes of Rodin, and fjord-hopping is an explorer’s art in itself. Of course, we’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the 35 Michelin-starred restaurants. If you must wear your fleece, please ensure it’s golden.

STRIVECTIN Say goodbye to fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, enlarged pores and dullness with the famed stretch mark cream turned anti-wrinkle phenomenon StriVectin SD Advanced Plus Intensive Moisturizing Concentrate.

Formulated with an upgraded Collagex-CE Complex, Copper Tripeptides and proprietary Marine Ferment, this cream provides deep moisturizing action, targets collagen III, youth collagen, promotes elasticity and dramatically reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

4 oz, $186, strivectin.com

VERSACE Chain Reaction panelled calf hair, rubber and suede sneakers, $1,418, mrporter.com

REBECCA DE RAVENEL Pomegranate crystalembellished earrings, $430, modaoperandi.com JIL SANDER Beige reversible down coat, $3,350, jilsander.com

VALENTINO Camo puffer jacket, $2,780, saksfifthavenue.com

ROBERTO CAVALLI Chimera fringed sweater, $1,380, robertocavalli.com

MVST SELECT AL9 aluminium suitcase in navy, $526, mvstselect.com

STYLE | BEAUTY

THAT

SPECIAL INGREDIENT

THE CURRENT POT REVOLUTION MIGHT BE LESS ABOUT GETTING HIGH, MORE ABOUT LOOKING GREAT

– by Sarah Treleaven –

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hen Canada decriminalized marijuana use, many pictured the emergence of Amsterdam-style cafés or small balconies lined with homegrown plants. Few predicted the enormous array of applications for the cannabis plant, from organic linen hemp activewear to jewellery made from its leaves. And the multibillion-dollar world of beauty was certainly not going to sit this one out.

In other words, weed-related beauty is super hot right now. The plant and its derivative compounds can be found in a vast array of cosmetic and skincare products, from lip balms and mascaras to body lotions and face serums.

Beauty and skincare derived from marijuana plants isn’t exactly new. In the late 1990s, The Body Shop introduced beauty products made from hemp seeds. But this generation of products is largely formulated around cannabidiol, also known as CBD. (All cannabinoids are regulated in Canada, and when CBD topicals hit consumer shelves later in 2019, it’s presently unclear precisely what will be permitted and how it will be packaged.)

CBD is a compound found in marijuana and, unlike the better known marijuana compound, THC, it will not get you high and has no impact on cognitive functioning. It’s has become a panacea for all kinds of ailments, from insomnia and anxiety to muscle aches and nausea.

Celebrities have rapidly hopped onboard, with Gwyneth Paltrow using her Goop platform to tout the benefits of CBD-spiked cocktails, actress Emma Roberts swearing by a CBD bath soak and Martha Stewart signing on to help create a CBD brand for pets who can’t relax.

The latest frontier is skincare and beauty, and brands all over the world are now hoping to cash in on the growing demand. Earlier this year, Canada’s Canopy Growth, a cannabis company based in Smith Falls, Ont., announced they would buy beauty and skincare company This Works for more than $70 million. And LVMH’s Sephora chain has been selling CBD-related beauty products since 2018, even

launching their own High Beauty cannabis-infused cosmetic line.

Celebrity stylist Karla Welch, who has worked with big names like Katy Perry and Olivia Wilde, reportedly swears by CBD lotion from Lord Jones and applies it to her clients’ legs before they hit the red carpet. It not only moisturizes—going on with a cooling sensation— but is marketed as having pain-relieving properties.

Smaller, more niche players are staking a claim, too. Californiabased, women-led online cannabis shop Miss Grass (founded by Canadian Anna Duckworth) offers a range of CBD-infused options, including a US$148 “high-potency” facial serum that promises to “turn on the skin’s natural glow.” Earth Dragon Organics, based on Salt Spring Island in British Columbia, now offers a range of cannabisrelated beauty products, including sunscreen, lip balm and face oil.

Products containing CBD have also capitalized on the growing obsession with “natural” beauty that contains familiar ingredients instead of simply a list of multi-syllable chemical components. Cannuka, for example, combines CBD with Manuka honey, known for its antibacterial and healing properties and harvested exclusively in New Zealand.

Is it effective? One recent study has linked cannabidiol to anti-inflammatory properties, which could be effective in treating diabetes complications and cardiovascular disorders. But skin problems like rosacea, psoriasis and eczema can also be linked to inflammation—so it’s possible that CBD could serve a dermatological function. Other studies have linked its antibacterial nature to potential anti-acne applications. Additional research has suggested that CBD oil, which is rich in vitamins A, C and E, might help stimulate collagen production to help keep skin looking plump and youthful.

Overall, the science remains inconclusive surrounding the use of CBD in beauty products and more research is definitely needed.

But most cannabis-related cosmetics and skincare products also have plenty of other enticing ingredients. So there’s likely no harm in liberally applying some mascara, moisturizing your legs, knocking back a couple of CBD Mint Juleps, and waiting for your turn on the red carpet.

“Celebrity stylist Karla Welch reportedly applies Lord Jones lotion to her clients’ legs before they hit the red carpet”

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CANNA-BEAUTY

CBD is having a moment. From skincare to wellness, this buzzy ingredient is stepping out of the shadows and straight into the limelight to reclaim its glory. Here’s a list of our faves, plus the lowdown on why this super-popular ingredient may be your new favorite skin-soother for fall

THE BODY SHOP

BEBOE

Hemp Heavy Duty Lip Balm Rich in essential fatty acids, this lip balm will resuscitate parched lips and restore a plump and natural appearance. $9, thebodyshop.com/en-ca

High-Potency CBD Face Serum In addition to containing CBD, this oil is jam-packed with plant-based goodness, including safflower, rosehip, grape seed and avocado oils. $148, shop. missgrass.com

KIEHL’S

Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil Herbal Concentrate Formulated with 100% naturally ingredients, including hemp-derived cannabis sativa seed oil and green oregano oil, this lightweight non-comedogenic facial oil works instantly, reducing blemishes, visible redness and discomfort. 30ml, $59, holtrenfrew.ca

MURAD

Revitalixir Recovery Serum A skin-relaxing blend of neuropeptide, paracress, and cannabis helps smooth stress lines, reduces under-eye puffiness and dark circles, and renews vibrancy immediately and over time. $117, sephora.com/ca

MILK MAKEUP

Kush High Volume Mascara This mascara has nourishing cannabis seed oil and a thickening brush to ensure attention-grabbing lashes. $32, sephora.com/ca

CANNUKA

CBD Nourishing Body Cream This ultra-luxe lotion combines the anti-inflammatory benefits of CBD with the nourishing, antibacterial properties of Manuka honey. $32, cannuka.com

FRESH

Cannabis Santal This scent for men (also very popular with women) combines the rich notes of kumquat and dark plum with chocolate, patchouli and vanilla musk. 30ml, $66, sephora.com/ca

MAZZ HANNA

Citrine-Infused Effervescent Bath Tonic Designed to melt away daily stress, this “deconstructed bath bomb” uses aromatherapy to help relax, restore and reinvigorate. 8oz, $55, mazzhanna.com

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bold partnerships

bold partnerships

A Slice of

HEAVEN Exquisite, idyllic and more accessible than ever, Anguilla promises the very best of the Caribbean

G

entle waves lap at the ivory sands of Shoal Bay, the radiant Caribbean sun dancing on the turquoise water. The clinking of glass and the sizzle of a grill punctuate the chatter of inquisitive seabirds, rousing sunbathers with the promise of a tantalizing beachside lunch. A family of snorkelers poke their heads above the sea, the excitement of swimming with sea turtles apparent in their happy laughter; as a windsurfer skirts the tranquil Scilly Cay. This isn’t the fever dream of an office worker desperate for vacation: it’s just an average day in Anguilla.

Known to insiders as the “hidden gem” of the Caribbean, Anguilla has quietly built a reputation as one of the finest island destinations in the world. A close neighbour to Saint Martin, Anguilla’s appeal has traditionally been predicated on the quality of its beaches, its laid back style and its rustic charm. For all that can be said about Anguilla’s 33 dazzling beaches, so much more can be said about the experiences that lie beyond them. In recent years, Anguilla has worked hard to assert itself as the culinary,

cultural, and experiential capital of the Caribbean, winning acclaim for the breadth of its tourism offering.

titillating taste buds with fall-off-the-bone ribs, spicy jerk chicken sandwiches, and Anguilla’s famous rum punch.

In search of the true character of the destination, we looked beyond Anguilla’s idyllic sands and discovered three big reasons why this little island is truly beyond extraordinary.

If you’re in the mood for something upscale, Anguilla’s fine dining options do not disappoint.

As the name perhaps gives away, the Resorts and Residences by Cuisinart delivers scrumptious dishes reflecting a variety of disciplines.

Japanese, Moroccan, and Mediterranean food is all on offer in the acclaimed eateries of this sprawling resort, spoiling guests for choice. Elsewhere, at the award-winning boutique Quintessence hotel, Chef Dominique Thevenet elevates the art of blending tropical flavours with classic French bistro. Inspired dishes like the burgundy escargot and spicy crayfish fritter both pair well with a wine selection from their globally-recognized Q Cellar, making this five-star restaurant a prime example of why Anguilla’s food is both envied and desired. Blanchard’s is a perennial favourite and must for most visitors. And be sure to check out Ember: the latest entry by celebrated Chef Marc Alvarez.

A Pleasure for Every Palate While many Caribbean islands can claim competency in the culinary arts, few can match the exceptional devotion to quality and flavour showcased in Anguilla. Anguilla’s cuisine is an eclectic fusion of tastes drawn from a variety of cooking traditions, including African, British, and Spanish. As one might expect, fresh seafood constitutes the core of many dishes, with mouthwatering snapper and succulent lobster standing out as particular favourites. Restaurants like Johnno’s and Sunshine Shack specialize in serving up Caribbean comfort food right on the beach,

bold partnerships

Marital Bliss A bit of trivia: what do actors Orlando Bloom and Kate Winslet and R&B singer Amerie have in common? Besides fame and fortune, all three tied the knot in Anguilla. The island’s destination wedding credentials speak for themselves: the fantasy of exchanging vows on the white sands of paradise becomes reality on the sparkling shore of Barnes Bay. Or frame your vows on a yacht anchored just off The Arch on the island’s western tip. The mind struggles to conjure images more intimate than a kiss between lovers under the stars, their hands linked as they gaze out onto the endless sea from the lavish terrace of their cliffside villa.

Of course, what comes after the ceremony is just as important as the ceremony itself. Beyond providing a breathtaking locale, Anguilla’s richness in romantic activities proves its status as a honeymoon hotspot is well-deserved.

The secluded privacy of untouched beaches and offshore cays provide the perfect hideaway for a lover’s picnic. You and your partner can relax those pre-wedding nerves at any one of the worldclass spas. Zemi Beach House, Malliouhana, and

Auberge Resorts Collection are standing by with aromatic compresses and full body tissue therapy to cleanse your senses. For those couples who’ve always secretly yearned to grace the cover of a romance novel, Seaside Stables can make that dream come true. Cantering across Cove Bay at sunset is the best way to cap a magical date in Anguilla. Sip cocktails in the Four Seasons Sunset Lounge before a candlelit dinner in their newly opened SALT restaurant. (Opens November 1)

Luxurious at Any Level Anguilla’s commitment to maintaining the highest standards in opulent accommodations is reflected in its epithet as “the island for the rich and famous”. When the tabloids picked up that Lebron James was staying in a massive Anguilla villa overlooking Mead’s Bay, jaws dropped when it was revealed he was paying around $75,000 a week to do so.

While the average traveller will pay no more than a fraction of that amount during their stay, they can still expect to receive the same standard of hospitality and care. Anguilla has something for everyone.

Properties like the Four Seasons, Belmond Cap Juluca, Malliouhana, Auberge Resorts Collection, Resorts and Residences by Cuisinart, and Zemi Beach House are emblematic of the essential luxury of staying in Anguilla. Usually sitting directly on the beach, these elegant properties offer generous amenities, extensive recreation, and modern accommodation - all with an ocean view. The Villas at the Four Seasons in particular are a must-stay: incredibly spacious and expertly accented, they provide both the space and comfort to explore the island at your own enjoyable pace.

Even if you aren’t a celebrity, never fear: Anguilla has a collection of affordable accommodations. Enter the Charming Escapes: smaller, often locally-owned properties providing authentic Anguillian comfort and hospitality at an accessible price point. Ranging from bungalows to apartments and yes - even villas, the Charming Escapes are a perfect choice for guests looking for something a bit more personal without compromising on privacy and quality. Favourites like Shoal Bay Villas, Carimar Beach Club and Paradise Cove have won over guests with their winning mix of service and location, often situated just steps away from desirable beaches and verdant tropical gardens. Of course, the best endorsement of these enchanting properties comes from their bookings: the same guests return year after year, their loyalty secured by the comprehensive experience packed into these affordable getaways.

Exquisite, idyllic, and more accessible than ever. What are you waiting for? ivisitanguilla.com has everything you need to start daydreaming about that perfect Caribbean vacation.

PROMOTION

LEAVE THE WORLD

U

BEHIND

nspoiled natural beauty, crystal clear beaches, and an exceptionally welcoming culture has propelled Nicaragua from anonymity to adoration; establishing the Central American country as a true destination for adventure travellers. Of course, its verdant nature and tranquil locales are also ideal for wellness-seeking travellers. To those in need of some serious R&R, we present our essential guide for the best places to recharge, rejuvenate and recalibrate in Nicaragua.

THE CORN ISLANDS

If you’re looking to get away and unplug, then a trip to the remote Corn Islands is a must. Once a refuge for pirates, Big Corn Island and Little Corn Island are now a secret hideaway for many Nicaraguans and visitors from around the world. White-sand beaches, swaying coconut palms and clear turquoise waters are par for the course on both Corn Islands.

Little Corn Island in particular seems like it jumped right off a postcard; a quiet and verdant jewel surrounded by calm cerulean waters. The gentle waves and supple sands lend themselves to world-class scuba, sailing, and fishing, while the charming amenities of the Village offer an escape from the mainland bustle. Unassuming Little Corn may be out of sight, but this idyllic escape deserves to be top of mind.

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YEMAYA ISLAND HIDEAWAY

Named after the goddess of the sea, Yemaya Little Corn caters to wellness enthusiasts who seek out tranquility in natural locales. Yemaya is a unique island hotel, offering 16 oceanfront rooms with stunning sea views, exquisite white sand beaches surrounded by lush jungle, a pristine reef teeming with sea life, and of course a daily deluge of lovely local smiles.

Do not expect marble foyers or uniformed bellhops: the decor is both locally inspired and tasteful. The organic garden that supplies the resort’s kitchen adds a healthy and authentic touch to the delectable cuisine. For guests looking to kick back on a barefoot beach vacation, Yemaya boutique hotel is the perfect place for you. yemayalittlecorn.com

MALIBU POPOYO SURF RESORT

Malibu Popoyo is what you get when you cross a luxury surf retreat with an adventure sanctuary. This all-inclusive, eco-friendly boutique surf resort and retreat center caters to surfers, yogis and adventurous souls. Located beachfront in the heart of Popoyo, Nicaragua, Malibu Popoyo is grounded

PROMOTION

two open-air rooms and private showers for spa treatments. A highlight at Jicaro is the floating yoga deck accessible by boat, a serene location where guests can enjoy sunrise yoga, afternoon meditation and sunset dinner. jicarolodge.com

AQUA WELLNESS RESORT

Nestled among the treetops and overlooking a private white-sand beach along Nicaragua’s Pacific Coast is Aqua Wellness Resort. This Rainforest Allianceverified resort maximizes the beauty of its natural surroundings by offering tree-top villas: the perfect choice of lodging for travellers keen on meeting a variety of flora and fauna, including monkeys, birds and butterflies. Additionally, Aqua rests on a turtlenesting beach that affords frequent sightings on the majestic animals. Aqua offers daily yoga on the elevated, open-air platform overlooking the beach and pampers guests at The Aqua Spa, with treatments that draw inspiration from Nicaragua’s natural resources, with local fruit and cacao. aquanicaragua.com

COCO LOCO RESORT

in Nicaraguan culture, a neighbour to more than 10 world-class surf breaks and run by an exceptional staff committed to delivering a transformational experience.

Malibu Popoyo isn’t just a hotel, a surf haven, a yoga studio, a restaurant. It’s all of these things and more, accentuated with calculated convenience and invigorating experiences finely curated to individual passions and wanderlust desires. With stimulating and satiating experiences for all walks of life, this high-end accommodation bristing with ecofriendly amenities will indulge the senses — without breaking the bank. malibupopoyo.com

Coco Loco Resort, a community focused eco-resort in northern Nicaragua, offers guests a very special travel experience. Since 2009, Coco Loco has worked to improve the quality of life of the local community through education programs, development initiatives and volunteer efforts. Over the past 10 years, Coco’s Waves of Hope foundation has invested over $400,000 into projects and initiatives focused on education, infrastructure, health care and the environment.

After giving back, guests can nurture themselves with yoga retreats, private classes and a teacher-in-training program. Guests can also take up surfing at all levels.

Accommodations include eight palm-thatch cabanas on the main property and three boutique rooms in the new beach house. cocolocoecoresort.com FOR FURTHER INFORMATION VISITNICARAGUA.US

JICARO ISLAND LODGE

Produced by Moreno & Co. 2019

Relaxation and wellness at Nicaragua’s west coast “Tourism Triangle” are easily within reach at Jicaro Island Ecolodge. Located on a private island in the middle of Lake Nicaragua and just a short boat ride from the colonial town of Granada, Jicaro is a serene alternative to the bustle of the nearby historic city. The ecolodge is comprised of nine private twostory casitas, many with a glorious view of the lake and nearby Mombacho Volcano.

Jicaro offers year-round yoga and wellness retreats that combine exceptional yoga experiences with opportunities to learn about the destination and its culture. The wellness center at Jicaro, overlooking the lake, features BOLD

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WONDER

HAKAPAPA

SHAKING THE BRANCHES OF HER EXTENDED FAMILY TREE, BRITNEY HOPE MAKES A DEEP DIVE INTO NEW ZEALAND’S MĀORI CULTURE

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ON THE PREVIOUS PAGES: The evocative wardrobe for a MÄ ori performance. ON THIS PAGE: Cycling the Huka Falls Trail. ON THE OPPOSITE PAGE: A sculpture along the track between Queen Charlotte Sound and Kenepuru Sound.

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Māori peformance photo by James Heremaia; Huka Falls Trail photo by Fraser Clements; Queen Charlotte Track photo by Chris McLennan

I’M

STARING

down at a phone number scrawled on a scrap of paper, working up the courage to dial. It’s my first of 25 nights in Auckland, and I’ve snagged a table on the patio at Depot Eatery, where diners are slurping back Bluff oysters and craft beer at every table. I’m here for a road trip across New Zealand with my partner, but I also have a personal agenda: I’m hoping to meet Anne, the owner of that phone number and matriarch of my extended Māori family tree.

This trip has been on the books for months, and we’re going all in: Hikes throughout the North Island, wine tastings, helicopter and sailing tours across fjords and mountains, and above all, acquainting ourselves with Māori culture. It’s the quintessential makeup of a typical tour of New Zealand, a nature’s playground known for its affable locals, world-class accommodation, complex cultural heritage and spectacular wilderness escapes.

It’s the familial connections on my mother’s side, however, that makes our trip a little different. She immigrated to Canada before I was born, and as the daughter of a Kiwi-turned-Canadian, my childhood was coloured with quirky New Zealand-isms like Footrot Flats cartoons and Marmite on toast. At the same time, I was only vaguely aware of my Māori heritage (called whakapapa); my soft-spoken grandfather always found both his culture and his childhood difficult to talk about.

As an adult, I know enough about New Zealand’s colonial past to be able to connect some dots. I know that in the 13th century, Māori arrived in Aotearoa (Land of the Long White Cloud) in waka (canoes) and that in the 1800s, Europeans arrived and tried to systemically eliminate their culture. I know this colonialization left its ugly mark by way of racial discrimination, loss of cultural identity and intergenerational trauma. And although there are schools that teach te reo (Māori language), Māori-focused TV

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authentic Māori experiences such as foraging, hunting and in our case, hāngī workshops. Hāngī, which translates to “earth oven,” is the traditional Māori method of slow-cooking food underground.

A fire is built inside a pit, stones are shovelled in on top of the burning embers and roasted red-hot, then food—today’s menu is pork belly and sweet potato—is wrapped in damp cloths, placed over the stones, and covered in earth. The whole process takes about five hours. While our food cooks, we join Loughlin on a hike to a nearby waterfall.

“If you’re in balance physically and spiritually, you’re balanced emotionally,” Loughlin tells us, explaining how sharing knowledge of practices like hāngī cooking and wilderness skills with local youth and visiting pakeha (Europeans) helps the Māori culture to live on. As we share our hard-won meal, I reflect on how easy it would have been for a cooking method like this to be forgotten with the arrival of modern conveniences.

NEXT DAY,

we meet master carver Delani Brown, who THE shares Loughlin’s perspective in the necessity of cultural survival. “It’s important for young Māori people to find their identity,” he says as he shows us around his Taupo studio, a cavernous room stacked to the ceiling with slabs of manuka wood in various stages of creation.

Brown, who is world famous for his ability to imbue meaning and story into sculptures with whakairo (wood carving), is in the middle of a dozen or so pieces, most of which are commissioned by politicians, CEOs and Hollywood celebrities. He wasn’t always so in-demand; Brown tells us he was a wandering young man when a group of master carvers brought him into their fold, passed on their knowledge and changed the course of his life. Now, he splits his time between hosting Ahipara guests, his carving and mentoring the community’s youth.

“If youth don’t know their identity, they can’t understand their genealogy. If they don’t know that, it’s hard to move forward in life,” he tells us.

“Do you know which waka you came in on?” he asks when I share my limited knowledge of my heritage. I don’t.

That night, I make myself pick up the phone.

Mine Bay photo by Fraser Clement; Te Puia photo by Eric Lindberg; Wellington Harbour photo by Ian Trafford

stations and traditional carvings in government buildings, race relations in the country, with a population of less than five million, continue to be complicated. I know my grandfather and my mother grew up disconnected from their culture. As a result, when it comes to my family history, I’ve never known much.

I persuaded my grandfather to share his sister’s number with me before I left home, in the hopes that I could meet Anne and learn more about our family. But now that I’m here, I’m hesitant about reaching out to her. What if she doesn’t want to meet me? What if Anne, like my grandfather, hates discussing the past? Darker still: Who am I to expect her to care?

Fortunately, we’re spending three weeks in New Zealand, travelling from the North Island to Anne’s home in the South, so I have some time to think. What’s more, the North Island, with its subtropical rainforests, turquoise waters and left-side driving learning curve, is an incredible distraction.

Within our first few days of hiking to hidden waterfalls, sampling whitebait fritters and driving around the Bay of Islands, we’ve taken to referring to New Zealand as “Canada, but better.” Unpatriotic, perhaps, but there are things about Aotearoa which, in addition to the overwhelming scenery, cannot be ignored. For starters, there are public toilets everywhere, all free and unbelievably clean. Museums and national parks are also free. Drivers follow the speed limits, cities empty out at 5:15pm, and litter is not a thing. It’s a general appreciation for the small pleasures in life that are rather disarming to the average Earth-dweller. Even the gas stations have espresso machines and can whip you up a top-notch flat white.

We make our way to Taupo, a volcanic region defined by its enormous lake and landscape carved from a devastating eruption in 186 AD. We’re visiting Tom Loughlin, a local legend and tangata whenua (person of the land). We met him through Ahipara, a travel consultant whose exclusive partnerships with leaders of the Māori community creates culturally and historically honest experiences for visitors. I’m hoping they can help me gain a little perspective.

Loughlin’s whare (cabin), is folded away in more than 2,000 hectares of rolling hillside on the eastern rim of the Taupo basin.

As a boy, Loughlin came to this land with his father to camp and fish on horseback. Now, he’s a steward to the acreage, and hosts

ON THESE PAGES: Kayaking on Mine Bay in Lake Taupo; carving in Te Puia village in Rotorua; Wellington Harbour.

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ON THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A dish from Wellington’s Hiakai restaurant; Hiakai chef Monique Fiso; a view of Split Apple Lodge; the artsy lobby of QT Wellington.

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Aotearoa Essentials STAY

THE

ORE

Haikai photos by Steve Boniface

we’re due to leave the North Island for the South Island, we make a stop at Hiakai, a restaurant specializing in Māori cuisine in Wellington, New Zealand’s capital. Hiakai, which means hungry in te reo, is the brainchild of Samoan/Māori Chef Monique Fiso, who realized her purpose to elevate New Zealand cuisine when trying to become more in touch with her Māori roots. The restaurant showcases Māori’s history as food innovators, who developed hāngī and agriculture after arriving to New Zealand.

Blending traditional indigenous ingredients with contemporary culinary techniques, the food at Hiakai is keeping Māori culture alive.

The menu is an elegant play on the fundamentals of revolution and tradition. We dine on tītī, a seabird which is only allowed to be harvested once a year—and only by Māori. We try māmāku delight (made from the iconic New Zealand fern), green-lipped mussel ice cream, and kawakawa, a sacred herb.

For me, Hiakai is an insight into a heritage I’d grown up aware of, yet never felt connected to, and the multisensory meal brings all my recent conversations with Loughlin and Brown to the surface. I imagine I feel similar to how many pakeha Kiwis in Aotearoa do; linked to an indigenous culture and in awe of its values, but with no right to claim it—or true appreciation for everything it had to survive.

By the time I meet Anne in Nelson, a wine region renowned for its Pinot Noirs, I’m not only nervous to meet her, I’m ashamed I thought I could relate to my roots in the first place. Anne has suggested we meet at the Nelson Provincial Museum. When we do, she introduces me to her great granddaughters, Mia and Olivia, who are so pleased to meet me, teach me the Māori alphabet and laugh about how Canadians all “talk like they’re smiling” that my nerves melt away. There’s something about going all the way across the world to a place you’ve never been before and meeting someone who shares the same blood, bones and smile lines as you.

We start in the regional gallery, which explores the history of Māori from the Nelson area. Anne tells me our iwi (people) are actually Te Aitanga-a-Mahaki, hailing from the east coast of the North Island.

“They’re special people, because they greet the first rays of the sun each day,” she says, explaining that the sun in Aotearoa rises in the east. She also tells me that our hapū (family clan) is called ngati-wahia. As though we hadn’t only met an hour ago, we promise to make a special trip to Gisborne together next time I’m in the country.

Later, as we’re examining a case of black and white pictures depicting Māori men in three-piece suits, Anne puts an arm around my shoulder.

“You have an ancestry here,” she says. “Do you feel that way?”

I’m not sure what to say, so I ask her what our waka was.

Our waka was Tākitimu.

NIGHT BEF

While New Zealand is lauded for its high-end lodges and helicopter pads, it’s the boutique accommodations that really make the stay.

Split Apple Lodge in Abel Tasman Park, an hour outside of Nelson, is one such spot. From its chic rooms enjoy stunning mountain views that can also be absorbed while soaking in its outdoor hot tub—with a glass of wine in hand, of course. splitapplelodge.co.nz QT Wellington, an expressive art gallery-andhotel in Wellington’s downtown core, features family suites with kitchenettes and in-suite laundry (handy for road-trippers). It’s also a three-minute walk from some of the food city’s best restaurants and flagship attractions. qthotelsandresorts.com/wellington EAT Kiwis really know their cuisine, and it’s hard to find a bad meal anywhere. That said, it’s the latest additions to the country that are really standing out.

Depot in Auckland is an oyster-lover’s dream, dishing up freshly-shucked morsels so juicy and fresh, you’ll forget all the mollusks that came before. They also do a mean charcuterie, and keep a beautiful list of local wines on tap. eatatdepot.co.nz In addition to being the country’s capital, Wellington is also considered by many to be the culinary capital, making the fact that it’s home to Monique Fiso’s Hiakai wholly appropriate. This first-of-its-kind dining spot has a series of ever-changing tasting menus, and is forging a new path that honours Māori tradition while celebrating its future. hiakai.co.nz SEE New Zealand can be an intimidating destination; tempting to tackle all at once, but overflowing with options. The experts at Ahipara are masters at cultural experiences, and offer travellers everything from private jet boat picnics in the South Island to authentic Māori welcome parties in the North. ahipara.com/experiences Don’t wait for a rainy day: Te Papa Museum in Wellington, with its interactive exhibits specializing in Māori culture is truly a national treasure, and a must-see for visitors and locals alike. tepapa.govt.nz

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The lights come up on Belfast’s River Lagan.

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Photo by James Kennedy/Shutterstock

BELFAST NOW

TITANIC-OBSESSED? OR KEEN TO EXPLORE THE DRAMATIC HALLMARKS OF THE CITY’S TURBULENT PAST? DOUG O’NEILL REPORTS ON THE ESSENTIAL NORTHERN IRELAND STAY

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SEE & DO

Titanic tours by day, tippling ON THIS PAGE: Xxxxx by night. Get to the heart of Belfast by exploring its distinct neighbourhoods.

First-time visitors: start in the Cathedral Quarter CULINARY WALKABOUT Belfast Bred is the only theatrical culinary walking tour in the Northern Ireland capital.

The experience combines history, heritage and haute cuisine—and not-so-haute cuisine as guides wander by upscale eateries, through markets and back alleys. Expect lots of tasty samples along the way. visitbelfast.com TROUBLES BEHIND US Belfast residents don’t dance around the issue of The Troubles, the turbulent period that cast a pall on Northern Ireland from the 1970s to 1990s. Black Cab Tours host informative and engaging driving tours (with plenty of stops) to visit historical sites, especially the famous murals in the Shankhill neighbourhood. touringaroundbelfast.com ICEBERG HO! First, a tip for enthusiasts heading to Titanic Belfast: skip the lineup and purchase your tickets in advance. That will give sufficient time to tour the nine interactive galleries, the shipyard, the SS Nomadic (the Titanic’s tender ship), room upon room of artefacts from the doomed RMS Titanic and displays chronicling the history of ship-building in Northern Ireland. titanicbelfast.com SHOPPING SPREE Visitors will find most major brands in Victoria Square Belfast (it’s home to the only Apple store in all of Ireland). There are also one-ofa-kind independent shops in Queen’s Quarter neighbourhood (close to Queen’s University) and lots of designer shops on Lisburn Road.

Note: Many stores are closed on Sunday or operate on reduced hours. The historic St. George’s Market is open on Fridays and weekends. Go first thing in the morning to hear buskers as you enjoy breakfast. visitbelfast.com 70

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Michelin to minimalist, elegant to egalitarian, Belfast’s restaurant scene has undergone a revolution of its own GRANDIOSE GOURMET Glass cupola. Ireland’s largest chandelier.

Victorian Era interior. That’s the Great Room Restaurant at the elegant Merchant Hotel, where guests’ eyes instinctively drift from the four-star menu to the ornate plasterwork on the ceiling.

And kudos to the kitchen: the Great Room offers both vegetarian and gluten-free Afternoon Tea. themerchanthotel.com ITALO-IRISH The menu at Coppi changes seasonally, but mainstays include Sicilian goat and fennel sausage. It’s reminiscent of the starters you’d typically enjoy in a Venetian bar, which best describes the ambience. Lots of chatter across the heavy wooden tables. coppi.co.uk KITCHEN UN-CONFIDENTIAL Tucked away on Warehouse Lane behind the cathedral, The Muddlers Club’s success is enhanced by the open kitchen, which allows chefs to show off their theatrics to hungry diners. The menu does an equally fine job of showcasing local food producers. Excellent seafood. themuddlersclubbelfast.com RIVERSIDE REPAST Michelin-award winning chef Stephen Toman works his magic in the kitchen of the 40-seat riverside restaurant Ox, where fresh vegetables, fish and the finer cuts of venison and beef dominate the menu. The minimalist décor attracts hipsters and serious foodies alike. oxbelfast.com PLENTY OF FISH The Irish take their fish and chips seriously.

Fish City in Belfast won the Best Fish and Chip Restaurant in all of Ireland in 2018, not only for cooking up the best-tasting dish, but for its commitment to sustainability. fish-city.com BOLD

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DRINK

A penchant for pubs. We’ll drink to that ON THIS PAGE: Xxxxx

MEMORIES AND MEMORABILIA The bric-a-brac on the walls of the Duke of York (lots of signage chronicling Belfast’s distilling history) rivals the city’s archives. The pub, which is accessed down a narrow cobbled alleyway, is an institution, and so it should be after its 200year history interrupted only by a bomb or two in the 1970s. Mind the house rule: “Respect the people around you and that waving your money at the staff behind the bar doubles your waiting time.” dukeofyorkbelfast.com JAMESON’S WITH YOUR JAVA? The most visible nod to modernity at the Dark Horse, a Duke of York sister property, is the Game of Thrones-themed door at the entrance, which you could enter as early as 9am for a mug of coffee or Suki tea. Otherwise, the interior speaks to a public house era of polished copper and mirrored walls. Ideal for afternoon pints after a city walk-about. dukeofyorkbelfast.com FOR A GOOD CRAIC The vaulted ceiling and elbow-worn bar of Kelly’s Cellars haven’t seen a huge update in décor since the two-storey pub opened in 1720. The camaraderie bespeaks authentic pub culture, as does the traditional Gaelic entertainment. kellyscellars.com WHERE CLOCKS STOP A tasting menu of cocktails? It’s an option at Rita’s Belfast, which bills itself as a “beer and cocktail club.” The staff mixologists get creative with gin. An upbeat (fairly well-dressed) crowd, especially at the end of the work day. ritasbelfast.com 72

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Belfast’s hotels achieve that delicate balance between traditional and trendy, serving up a taste of Old World charm with haute cuisine and maybe a hot tub LITTLE BIT OF THIS, LITTLE BIT OF THAT Juxtaposition is everything at the Maldron Hotel Belfast City (not to be confused with the airport location). Imagine a modern, slightly funky hotel (the closest you’ll get to Scandinavian minimalism in Ireland) that’s surrounded by time-honoured drinking holes, such as the Crown Liquor Saloon, that date back to the 18 th century. maldronhotelbelfastcity.com LUXURY ON THE LOUGH If winning the Luxury Hotel of the Year Award (for all of Ireland) in 2017 doesn’t bolster the appeal of the historic Culloden Estate & Spa, there’s always the view: the former mansion, built in 1876, stands high on Holywood Hills overlooking Belfast Lough and the County Antrim coastline. The onsite Cultra Inn sources the finest local ingredients, such as Irish scampi. hastingshotels.com SHIPYARD DIGS If you want to anchor yourself close to the world’s largest Titanic visitor attraction, then enjoy the thrill of sleeping in the former headquarters of Harland & Wolff, builders of the RMS Titanic. titanichotelbelfast.com ART DECO MEETS VICTORIAN A $27.7-million update hasn’t detracted from The Merchant Hotel’s Old World charm in the heart of the city’s Cathedral Quarter. Guests can settle into a fourposter bed in a suite steeped in all things Victorian, or opt for an Art Deco-styled room. The Rosetteaward-winning Great Room is one of Belfast’s more popular fine dining options. For drinks, there’s Bert’s Jazz Lounge, the best of its kind in the city, or the Champagne Lounge. themerchanthotel.com NO LONGER MOST BOMBED Built in 1971, the Europa Hotel on Great Victoria Street earned the distinction during The Troubles of Northern Ireland as the most bombed hotel in Europe. The loudest it gets these days is the Piano Lounge late night on weekends. hastingshotels.com BOLD

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EXTRAORDINARY EXPERIENCES

bold partnerships

All Aboard!

T

he history of human exploration is inextricably intertwined with the history of sailing. Whether by canoe, gondola, or galleon, our ancestors took up the paddle and hoisted their sails in search of new horizons and new opportunities.

While we aren’t doing nearly as much spice trading or launching quite so many odysseys these days, the humble boat has taken on contemporary importance as a tool for recreation and leisure. Sailing still remains an ideal way to experience some of the most incredible destinations the world has to offer, up close and personal.

For years, Toronto-based adventure travel company G Adventures has been on the frontline of preserving the allure of the waves, offering a variety of guided getaways on both sea and river. Whether you’re an experienced sailor or a nautical neophyte, G Adventures has unique offerings guaranteed to make you fall in love with the water.

Turn to the next four pages for more travel inspiration and visit gadventures.com | call 1 888 800 4100

gadventures.com

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Setting Sail G Adventures offers a way to see the world that’s a bit more leisurely and off-the-beaten-waterway. For many G Adventures tours, the sailboat is the vehicle of choice. Of course, these aren’t the fun-sized dinghies you might expect to see moored on your neighbour’s dock in Muskoka. Instead, think of a private yacht or sleek catamaran helmed by an expert skipper, ready to show you every secluded cove, hidden beach, and remote coastal town along your route. Therein lies the true appeal of the sailboat: while land travel and commercial cruising may get you to the bucket list destinations and tourist hotspots, sailing brings you to the places you never knew you needed to go. Whether that means docking in the picturesque Adriatic towns on the Croatian coast or weaving from island to island in the Maldives, the destinations you can explore while sailing are diverse enough to satisfy any palate. Charter a private boat in the British Virgin Islands or Sri Lanka and experience the appeal of self-guided adventure with friends and loved ones. If you’re travelling solo, G Adventures will be happy to match you up with like-minded explorers. Hop aboard, see the sights, and forge lifelong friends and memories along the way.

gadventures.com

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Glorious Galapagos Seals, finches, and centuries-old tortoises - the iconic Galapagos islands are famous the world over for their beautiful endemic wildlife. Perhaps best recognized as the test case for Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution, Galapagos is just as wild as you might expect, home to a handful of rare species you won’t find anywhere else. If you’re looking to walk in Darwin’s shoes and experience the natural wonder of the Islands for yourself, why not take a page from his playbook and arrive in the same manner: by boat. With no more than 20 passengers on board, G Adventures’ Galapagos yachts provide all the intimacy and convenience of a small-group tour with an exciting itinerary that caters to the naturalist and animal lover. Snorkel the waters alongside golden rays and hike the highland habitat of the marine iguana as you discover the vibrance of Galapagos. Hopping from island to island, you’ll traverse lava fields, delve into dense jungle, and lounge on white sand beaches, interacting with the wildlife every step of the way. Cap each day off with a cold drink on the deck as you take in the tropical sunset - a relaxing intermission between exhilarating excursions into the dazzling locales of Galapagos.

gadventures.com

bold partnerships

Riveting on the River When it comes to exploring the world by water, there’s more to see beyond the sea. While that crisp salt air and azure expanse is infinitely alluring, some of the world’s most interesting places lie along the banks of the planet’s greatest rivers. Whether your ideal destination is France’s picturesque Burgundy valley, the lush tropics of the Amazon rainforest, or the faraway paradise of Vietnam’s Mekong Delta, G Adventures has a riverboat for you.

While the boat’s technical designation as a “barge” may not initially inspire feelings of grand romance, its amenities definitely will. Comfortable sleeping quarters and ample deck space provide you and the rest of your small group with a relaxing vantage point for taking in the sights and sounds of your destination. You’ll have ample opportunity to head ashore and sample delectable local cuisine, but we should state for the record that the food onboard is utterly world-class. When you do dock at a riverside hamlet for a charming excursion, you can opt to explore by foot or take one of the bikes for a spin. There’s nothing quite like cycling around the palaces of Phnom Penh or through the heart of France’s wine country - just make sure to finish the ride with a glass of full-bodied red.

For amazing food and drink, captivating wildlife, and first-hand forays into authentic culture at your own pace, a G Adventures river cruise is impossible to beat.

gadventures.com

bold partnerships

Polar Perfection Sometimes, getting away means really GETTING AWAY. If you’re ready to wave goodbye to civilization, what could be more exceptional and life-changing than an adventure into the planet’s polar regions? A trip to either the Arctic or Antarctic is more than your average cruise: it’s the experience of a lifetime. The G Expedition is your gateway to Earth’s frozen frontier: a small-ship cruising experience with capacity for 134 passengers, plus a roster of knowledgeable cabin and crew staff. Whether you opt for an 8-day trip or the full 21-day journey, you’ll marvel at magnificent landscapes and revel in the opportunity for discovery.

Antarctica is untouched and unforgiving, the foreboding yet beautiful kingdom of the penguins and sea lions. As the G Expedition navigates the icy waterways, you just might catch a glimpse of a humpback following in the ship’s wake... or get close to one during a kayaking excursion. In the Arctic, you’ll sail the breathtaking Nordic fjords, dock in some of the most beautiful and remote northern communities in the world, and perhaps even spy a polar bear hunting on the glaciers. Words fail to describe the feeling of drifting through the ice floes while the northern lights dance overhead. For true adventure and warm hospitality in the planet’s most remote regions, the G Expedition is a boat worth boarding.

gadventures.com

TRAVEL INTEL Our tips and tricks to navigating the world

SAFETY FIRST

Our five top destinations for travellers who love to feel secure

BY LIZ FLEMING

I

f the nightly news reports are making you nervous about travelling, relax.

We’ve compiled a collection of our favourite safest destinations. We’d never advise against the usual precautions—avoid flashing valuables in public, for example—but these are spots where you can, for the most part, let your guard down.

CHILL OUT IN ICELAND In addition to grabbing top place on the Global Peace Index as the world’s most peaceful country in 2018, Iceland is enjoying a huge boom in tourism.

Maybe travellers are keen to soak in the Blue Lagoon, hike one of the country’s many glaciers, take a selfie at Gullfoss, the stunning multi-tiered waterfalls, watch the Strokkur Geysers burst from the earth or taste bread baked in that steamy volcanic ground. You can feel snug no matter how much the rugged landscape challenges you.

ZEN IN ZAMBIA The United States Department of State is notably stingy about handing out “Level 1 Advisory” status, which is their least serious ranking. But tranquil Zambia has earned it, along with a high ranking on the Global Peace Index.

Both recommendations mean that you can book your visit to the worldfamous Victoria Falls, sail on the Zambezi River and plan that safari you’ve always wanted to take, knowing that you’ve made a smart, safe holiday choice.

ALL GOOD IN AUSTRIA Paris has had a rough year and Italy’s been rocked by a volcanic eruption on the tiny island of Stromboli. But Europe has no shortage of secure destinations. Austria, in particular, ranks highly on the Global Peace Index. Its share of the Alpine mountain range is beautiful whether you’re wearing hiking boots or skis. So is the Wachau Valley and the Austrian Lake District. Get in touch with your inner sound of music in Salzburg, visit a coffee house in Vienna and tour the Melk Abbey.

COSTA RICA’S PURA VIDA Safe is great, but safe and happy is an unbeatable combination. That’s what visitors to Costa Rica will tell you. Ranked the “happiest country in the world” by the Happy Planet Index, Costa Rica is bliss for wildlife lovers, with more birds, animals, reptiles and fish than almost any other destination. The locals will tell you that they believe in pura vida or “pure living,” an approach that makes their tours of the rain and cloud forests, as well as their worldfamous zip lining courses, some of the most environmentally friendly tourism initiatives you’ll find anywhere.

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The not-for-profit association Bee + Hive has launched a new booking platform, a not-for-profit association that unites hotels and partners committed to sustainable tourism experiences.

“People are interested in travelling responsibly, but the process of identifying and selecting genuine sustainable options is complicated,” says Bruno Correa, founder of Bee + Hive. “There is growing interest in making travel choices based on experiences that are unique and transformative.”

The website allows visitors to search for genuine sustainable experiences to start their holiday planning, offers location and hotel options and confirms availability on the selected dates before inviting the user to reserve. By booking with Bee + Hive, travellers become part of a global movement to grow sustainable tourism by supporting a hotel or destination committed to sustainability and by helping Bee + Hive continue its work.

“A responsible hotel cares about developing the local ecosystem and its community. The best way to do this is by offering authentic activities that reflect the destination.” And so Bee + Hive promises to reinvested in promotional efforts for legitimate and inspiring sustainable hotels and experiences. beeplushive.com

Illustration by Laura García

WHY NOT TOUR TOKYO? If you love big Asian cities, but the unrest in some areas has you hesitating, think Tokyo. Ranked the safest city in the world by The Economist in 2017, Tokyo has all the reserved decorum of Japanese culture, combined with enough big-city buzz to keep you entertained all day and all night. See Mount Fuji, ride the Bullet Train, meet Mickey Mouse at Tokyo Disneyland and dine at the Robot Restaurant. Or lose your phone, as one friend recently did; this is a country where people will find a way to get it back to you.

TAKING THE STRESS OUT OF THE JOURNEY

There’s not much anyone can do about flight delays or crowded airports, but some of the bumps we experience when we travel are within our own control. Here are a few stressbusting strategies we’ve found can work miracles, even if they can’t help you find your lost bag.

1.

Make a packing list a week before your trip, adding to it as you think of things you’ll need. When you pack, check each item off as it goes into your suitcase. You won’t be sitting in the departure lounge wondering, “Damn. Did I remember my contact lens case?”

2.

Travel light. If you have only a carryon bag, you won’t be one of those poor souls watching the last, lonely suitcase circle round and round on the baggage carousel as you wonder what happened to yours.

3.

If you absolutely have to check a bag, make sure you have a change of clothes, any meds, all your electronics, valuables and toiletries in your carry-on. There’ll be no need to panic if something goes astray.

Entertain yourself. In advance of your trip, download movies or podcasts you’ve been wanting to enjoy, then settle into your seat, pop in your earbuds and relax. Nobody knows your tastes better than you do.

4.

5.

Drink lots of water to avoid the headaches that come with dehydration.

6.

If you’re taking connecting flights, be sure to allow more time than you think you’ll need to get from gate to gate. If your first flight is delayed, you can avoid a chain reaction of missed connections.

7.

Expect at least one glitch per trip and try to be philosophical about it. The worst travel experiences make the best stories later. Use your sense of humour to make it funny while you’re living it, not just in the retelling. Laughter is, after all, the best medicine.

RIDE THE RAILS ON THE ROCKY MOUNTAINEER

Always wanted to explore the Rocky Mountains? Unless you’re a mountain goat, the best way to explore those rugged crags is aboard the Rocky Mountaineer, western Canada’s most iconic railway. From her windows, you’ll have once-in-a-lifetime views of mountains, lakes and the kind of wilderness that only the most intrepid adventurer ever gets to see. Whether you choose SilverLeaf or GoldLeaf seats (GoldLeaf allows you to visit an open air car to take photographs), you’ll enjoy the same great food and wine, and an on-going, non-intrusive, but informative on-board commentary. Multi-day excursions include such destinations as Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Lake Louise, Jasper, Calgary, Banff and Kamloops, as well as comfortable overnight accommodations in stops along

BOLD QUERY WHERE DO YOU FEEL THE LEAST TURBULENCE ON A PLANE? While we’re all bound to feel a bit of a bounce now and then, experts tell us that the best spot to avoid airborne turbulence is either over the wings or towards the front of the aircraft. The plane is balanced by its wings and nose, so the tail is sometimes inclined to move more.

the way. Feel like the ultimate PacificNorthwest wilderness retreat? Combine your train adventure with a pre- or post-Alaskan cruise experience from Vancouver, B.C., or Seattle, Washington, aboard select Holland America Line ships. rockymountaineer.com

REALLY HOT TIPS

If you want to start a debate that will engage everyone for hours, start talking about tipping.

Here’s a starting point: More and more, diners and drinkers in North America paying by card are seeing 20 per cent as the default setting on payment terminals. Although tip amounts are traditionally calculated on the pre-tax total, these handheld machines usually add the tip on the gross purchase, tax and all. Is it worth the effort to start clicking buttons to reset the percentage to something more tailored to what you think the tip should be?

A surprising recent article in The Taiwan News advised Tainwanese travellers (who are not used to tipping), that, in North America and Europe, good service should “be rewarded with tips of five to 10 per cent. However, this is seen as a token of gratitude rather than an obligation.” Ouch; that may be okay in the type of continental European restaurants that automatically add a service charge to the bill, but it won’t make you many friends on this side of the Atlantic.

Recent efforts to create “tipping free” restaurants in Canada and the U.S. have been mostly unsuccessful. Restaurants that have tried have often lost staff or gotten bad reviews. New York restaurants like Roman’s, Diner, Marlow & Sons and Agern all abandoned no-tipping policies in the last year. In Calgary, Earls.67 abandoned its 16 per cent service charge-in-lieuof-tips after just six months. We might fuss over the amount, but we don’t seem to want to give up the consumer power we think tipping gives us.

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WORTH TRAVELLING FOR

S

Lyon, France

econd cities have to work hard in order not to fade into the background. With the bustle and commerce happening in a country’s biggest city (for example, Mexico City, Madrid, Toronto, Johannesburg, Sydney), the best of them possess a leisureliness that can result in great food, great art and a unique vibe (Guadalajara, Barcelona, Montreal, Cape Town, Melbourne).

Just outside the global spotlight, second cities have the freedom to truly be themselves.

Yes, Lyon, France, squabbles with Marseilles for the title of France’s second city—Lyon is, specifically, the second largest “urban area” after Paris. But it bears all the hallmarks of the ideal second city. Vibrant but relaxed, traditional but fashion-forward, historic but overflowing with young people, it offers so many of the experiences visitors to Europe crave, with a fraction of the hassle.

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The capital of the Gauls was founded here in 43 B.C. and the place has been reinventing itself ever since. The ancient Romanera amphitheatre, where performances are still held, is a short walk from the Renaissance-era old city, which is just across the bridge from the 15 th and 16th century architecture of Presqu’île, from where one can easily walk to the hypermodern La Confluence district, where the Rhône and Saône rivers meet.

All that walking requires replenishment and Lyon prides itself on its culinary skills. Fantastic food is everywhere, not least in the city’s traditional bouchon restaurants, which serve hearty dishes— lots of pork, offal and a kind of sausage, boudin, that perhaps only those from Louisiana might recognize. Lyon may not be as famous as Paris, but the Lyonnaise influence pops up where you least expect it. —PAUL GALLANT

Photo by Tristan Deschamps//Lyon Tourisme et Congrès

THE LION’S SHARE

The Hôtel-Dieu de Lyon across the Rhône river.

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