Travel for Better: the places and amazing experiences we're booking now by BOLD Traveller Magazine

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2020

TRAVEL FOR BETTER LONDON MEXICO TOKYO THAILAND

Anguilla

ISLAND LIFE, SECRET BEACHES & SULTRY SUN

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WANDER GREEN PLACES

Nicaragua is an adventurer’s paradise. With 78 protected areas and a plethora of natural parks, the hiker, spelunker, and kayaker will be spoiled for choice. Eternally misty cloud forests tempt travellers to navigate their canopy walkways while the black sands of the Cerro Negro welcome the thrillseeker for an afternoon of volcano boarding. Yet, nestled between Tola and El Astillero sits The Emerald Coast: Nicaragua’s dreamy response to the growing population of eco-travellers. This 30-mile stretch of pristine coastline and undisturbed forest has transcended its humble origins as a surfing getaway and become one of Nicaragua’s foremost destinations for sustainable adventure and relaxation. With an abundance of exciting excursions and a growing selection of authentic accommodations, green has never looked (or felt) so good.

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Contents . Features

A snorkeler’s paradise off the shores of Anguilla.

FAR FROM THE MADDING CROWD

Forget Justin Bieber’s love of Anguilla. In fact, Vawn Himmelsbach found Anguilla perfect for shutting out the world. 6

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Febuary | March 2020

THE SPECTACULAR AND THE SUBLIME

Thailand is certainly fun. But Paul Gallant loves the pomp and grandeur even more.

STRANGE ROMANCE

Perhaps one of the most beautiful cities in Mexico, Guanajuato also has a macabre side, reports Andrew Brudz.

CARIBBEAN SECRET

In St. Vincent and the Grenadines, Vawn Himmelsbach finds an independent spirit and a superlative yachting destination.

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Agenda

Local Expert

42 Also in this Issue

“Why have a rooftop pool that’s inaccessible after a night of partying?” P. 64

EDITOR’S NOTE Sustainable travel is inspirational travel

EDITOR’S ITINERARY Getting a dose of Vitamin N (for nature)

14 CONTRIBUTORS Behind the scenes with our correspondents 17 AGENDA The Jordan Trail, the Finger Lakes, plus more 22 WEEKENDER Quick escapes from Tokyo 24 STAY Where Steel Magnolias is a way of life 26

TRAVEL TWO WAYS London’s Bloomsbury and Dorchester hotels

28 CRUISE In need of a niche? Here are five

32 DRINK Tickling your Tiki 34

LOCAL EXPERT Photographer Gail Aguiar’s guide to Porto, Portugal

36 DINE Mayan cuisine tastes even better when you know more 40

FOOD DIARIES The life of chef Trevor Bird in words and pictures

44 STYLE Connecting the dots 46 GLOBETROTTER Actor Josh Duhamel takes us around the world

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Febuary | March 2020

TRAVEL INTEL Getting the best bang for the buck, plus more

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Editor’s Note

lthough we’re all about inspiration and delight here at BOLD, I’m going to start out with some cold, hard facts. According to the Cambridge Institute for Sustainability Leadership, tourism contributes to about five per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions. That gives you a sense of the monumental task faced by the industry if it wants to sincerely join in the fight with climate-change activist Greta Thunberg. At the same time, however, the World Travel & Tourism Council (WTTC) reports that in 2018 the sector supported 319 million jobs, 10 per cent of total employment and generated 10.4 per cent of global GDP. Any realm of human activity this expansive is going to have a discernible carbon footprint. The questions are: a) Is travel worth it? b) How can we do better? Compared with the environmental impact of, say, ever-evolving big-screen TVs, SUVs and leaf blowers, I would argue that travel done right is, indeed, worth it. Travel can efficiently spread money from (typically) rich visitor communities to needier host ones, increases the value we put on our natural environment and on Indigenous cultures, and helps farflung peoples better understand one another. On a recent visit to Peru’s Sacred Valley (which I’ll write about in a future issue), my fellow travellers lined up to pay to have their photos taken with a local lady and her adorable (but also fiber-providing-and-eventually-meat-providing) alpacas, which seemed a far more meaningful way of spending money than electronically sending $9.99

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Febuary | March 2020

to Microsoft for the latest iteration of Minecraft. On the same trip, I bought little packets of salt from the very site where local families, descended from the Incas, harvest and process salt from ponds created to collect subterranean spring water. That’s one way to remove the middlemen from the food supply system. We can always do better, choosing tour operators, accommodations and culinary experiences that respect local cultures, local economies and the environment. We can vote with our dollars. I make a point whenever I travel to visit markets where craftspeople are the star attraction. “My friend made them,” one Peruvian vendor tells me, pointing to a row of mostly identical mugs. Um, I doubt it. But at least the vendor herself, rather than a Silicon Valley billionaire, will benefit from my purchase. In the tourist town of Aguas Calientes, where you are all but forced to go in order to visit Machu Picchu, it took some effort to find the unmarked door that led upstairs to the town’s indie food court. In lieu of a Diet Coke and burger, I order a freshly made juice along with a bowl of alpaca stew, flirting with the ladies behind the counter while they prepare my meal. Direct, unmediated experiences are increasingly hard to come by in our digital age. But they might be our only hope as a species.

Paul Gallant Executive Editor

Basket-carrier photo by Ronald Cuyan; portrait photo by Tishan Baldeo

Precious moments, precious planet

Editor’s Itinerary Fresh air, a racing heart The perfect eco adventures will give you a thrill— and connect you to nature – by Liz Fleming –

Arenal Volcano National Park, Costa Rica

Canyoning in the Jumanji-like rainforest jungle of Arenal Volcano National Park in northern Costa Rica is the ultimate rush. Canyoning, for those not familiar with the concept, translates to “jumping off a cliff and bouncing your way to the bottom.” You keep one hand on a rope above you and one just below your bum, push really hard with your feet and try not to slam into the rocks. A guide will belay your ropes to secure you, and check your helmet and harness so you won’t plummet 260 metres to the rain forest floor. But the rappelling is literally in your hands. Did I mention the waterfall? The first cliff I bounced down was right beside an enormous, gushing, churning waterfall and the guides had a huge laugh, swinging me in and out of the wild downpour. That was just the first of the six leaps we made. Some bounced us past rocky crevices, while others involved a wild rope swing across a gorge, followed by a sudden plunge into a pool below. My heart raced, my clothes were filthy and I loved every second. Though it sounds intense, no prior experience is required—just some nerve. arenal.net/rappelling

Zoo Sauvage de St-Félicien, Quebec

If you really want to see a moose, as I had been dying to, you will likely encounter one at Zoo Sauvage de St-Félicien in the Saguenay– Lac-Saint-Jean region of Quebec. I know the word “zoo” has a lessthan-adventurous sound, but at Zoo Sauvage, the animals roam free in an enormous wildlife sanctuary while visitors are caged in buses or small trains. Wildlife sightings are random, but visitors can get lucky. One of the first turns in our small vehicle brought us stunningly close to a black bear who was lolling in the sunshine. While we snapped photo after photo, he stared past us. He was bored. We were mesmerized. After nearly an hour, we’d seen caribou, deer and bison, but still no moose.

Climbing high in French Polynesia. 12

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Febuary | March 2020

Then, around a bend, we spotted a pond, shimmering in the early morning sunlight. As we watched, they appeared, moving out of the forest. Moose calves waded into the water on hilariously spindly legs while a bull moose, his rack of horns rising commandingly, gave us a single glance. Sensing no danger, he lowered his enormous head to the water. As he drank, so did I, swallowing great, greedy gulps of the scene in front of me, finally satisfying my moose lust. zoosauvage.org

Bora Bora, French Polynesia

Bora Bora may be a honeymooner’s paradise, but I had a polyamorous South Pacific affair there—with ocean creatures. My first love was a massive stingray I met on a shoal, miles from shore. As my guide and I treaded water, I was handed a small dead fish and told: “Hold it at the base of your throat.” Suddenly, a silky-smooth stingray slid up my body, embracing me like a wet velvet blanket. When his head reached mine, he found his snack and in one quick slurp the little dead fish disappeared. As quickly as he’d come, he was gone. Fickle stingray. Scooping up the pieces of my broken heart, I moved on to my next sea creature encounter. Hanging onto a rope attached to the back of the boat, I floated while the guide tossed chunks of fish. Suddenly, a lemon shark posse appeared, gobbling the free lunch and circling me; their fins and snouts brushed against me, their fins touching my face. Again, once the fish was gone, so were my shark suitors. Ocean love, it seems, is all about the food. tahiti.com/island/bora-bora

Tacuarembó, Uruguay

Rancher Juan Manuel looked at me dubiously when I arrived at his cattle ranch, the Panagea Estancia and Backpacker’s Hostel in the heartbreakingly beautiful cattle country of northeastern Uruguay. “Can you ride?” he asked. I took in the scenery, a vast sweep of grazing lands, dotted with cows, horses, armadillos scuttling like tiny, crazed tanks through the short grass and ostriches galloping on impossibly spindly legs. I answered, “Well, I can sit on a horse.” “You’ll do more than that. The Panagea is a cattle ranch,” he said. “The work doesn’t stop because we have guests. You’ll ride and you’ll herd cattle.” Juan introduced me to my horse, Tango, and gave me a quick riding lesson. By the time the saddle was on and I had my boots in the stirrups, my horse Tango and I were a team. He ran around the cows while I made herding noises like “Good cow. Go this way!” The cows complied. A great gaucho has excellent cowherd/horse cooperation. I worked from dawn to dusk, ate enormous cattle ranch meals and didn’t mind that there was no electricity or Wi-Fi. I drank in the landscape and found a new, simpler version of myself, one that worked with her hands and her heart instead of her laptop. panagea-uruguay.blogspot.com

French Polynesia photo courtesy of Reiseuhu

I’m admitting to my addiction—I’m an adrenaline junkie. But not the “park myself with a controller in front of a computer screen” kind. It’s all about making a connection

IN THE SUN AND HAVIN’ FUN

STUCK INSIDE, FUN DENIED

DUKORAL® is a drinkable vaccine that may help you spend your vacation where you want – and not in the bathroom. DUKORAL® is indicated for the prevention of and protection against cholera and diarrhea caused by enterotoxigenic Escherichia coli (ETEC)-producing heat-labile enterotoxin (LT) (either LT alone or both LT and heat-stable enterotoxin (ST) together). DUKORAL® does not treat diarrhea caused by enterotoxigenic E.coli once it develops. DUKORAL® will only protect against cholera and LT-producing enterotoxigenic E. coli (ETEC). Not everyone who gets vaccinated will be fully protected. Therefore, precautions to avoid contaminated food or water should be taken. Allergic reactions and side effects such as abdominal pain, diarrhea, fever, nausea and vomiting may occur. Rehydration measures should be taken in case of diarrhea.

ASK YOUR HEALTHCARE PROFESSIONA ABOUT TAKIN L G 2 WEEKS BEFO R TRAVELLING E

Contributors VAWN HIMMELSBACH

WRITER - Far from the Madding Crowd (P. 52)

“Thanks to a delayed flight, I arrived in Anguilla a day later than expected, and my transfer got mixed up in the confusion. But a local woman at the ferry terminal drove me to my villa and waited with me in her car (A/C cranked) until the owner could get there—the first of many acts of kindness I experienced in Anguilla.”

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2020

Executive Editor Associate Editor Americas Editor Contributing Editor Art Director

Photography Web Developer Social Media Coordinator Contributing Writers

Paul Gallant Liz Fleming

Magda de la Torre Ruth J. Katz

Malcolm M c Kee Tishan Baldeo Rahul Nair

Juan Felipe Galán Victoria Bass • Andrew Brudz Vawn Himmelsbach • Sabrina Pirillo • Jake Seguin

ANDREW BRUDZ

WRITER - Strange Romance (P. 70)

CEO + Editorial Director

“Besides the magical architecture and fascinating history, there was one other thing forcing me to keep exploring Mexico’s hilly Guanajuato a little more each day—the steep stairs. Each time I thought I had seen enough, I also thought about the arduous climb up the mountainside to my Airbnb. ‘Yeah, maybe I will just keep walking around a little more instead.’”

Chief Digital Officer Director of Finance

www.boldmagazine.ca

Canada Advertising Inquiries Public Relations Agency

ON THE COVER

Taking time out to dream in Anguilla.

ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH WRITER - Mother Maya (P. 36)

“In the story, I mentioned Yucatan’s signature marquesitas crêpes. But I didn’t admit that whenever I saw a crêpe cart on the street (or better yet, on the beach), I would squeal and chase the vendor down. Even though my story focuses on higher-end cuisine, I probably ate a half dozen marquesitas over the course of my five days in Yucatan and would have eaten more if Ièd had the chance.”

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Febuary | March 2020

Pina Russo

Jude Soosaipillai

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Agenda Agenda

Local Expert

Where We’re Exploring Next

Photo by Alex Azabache

AMAZING EXPERIENCES WE’RE BOOKING RIGHT NOW

A reflective moment in Petra, Jordan.

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Agenda

Where We’re Exploring Next

Caribbean in Style

If you’re making a comeback, do it with style. St Maarten was one of the hardest hit destinations during 2017’s Hurricane Irma. But some of the rebuilds slated to open soon look amazing. Formerly the popular hotel Alegria, on Burgeaux Bay, the 124-room The Morgan has a confident modern design aesthetic, is outfitted with the latest tech and boasts a “sand-edge” infinity pool. themorganresort.com

3 Masterworks in Stone

Greening the Concrete Jungle

When it opens this year, Rosewood São Paulo will be the first South American adventure for the brand. In a city that’s never been fussy about preserving the past, the 121-room, 122-suite hotel reinvents a section of Cidade Matarazzo, a complex of buildings which dates back to the early 20th century. The base building was formerly a maternity hospital, built in 1904. But with Pritzker Prize-winning architect Jean Nouvel collaborating on the project with designer Philippe Starck, it’s anything but a straight-forward historic restoration. A new 22-storey tower rises from the middle of the complex, and is clad in sections of corten steel, on which trees and plants are being grown. If the giant planter concept doesn’t seduce you, the location’s also got a wow factor. Rosewood São Paulo will be connected by a short pedestrian walkway to the city’s corridor of power, Avenida Paulista. rosewoodhotels.com/en/sao-paulo

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In a dramatically beautiful mountain region about 645 kilometres from the Ethiopian capital of Addis Ababa, the Medieval ages live on. Hewn out of solid rock, 11 monolithic cave churches stand on guard for the town of Lalibela. In the 12th century, Emperor Gebre Mesqel Lalibela had a vision for a “New Jerusalem” and the extraordinary project was mounted over the next century. It soon became a pilgrimage site and is still visited by devout pilgrims, both secular and spiritual. It’s difficult to imagine the scale of construction. The architecture was chiselled out of stone, forming doors, windows, columns, various floors and roofs out of the landscape. The emperor was as concerned with the pragmatics as he was with the sublime; an extensive system of drainage ditches, trenches and ceremonial passages, some with openings to hermit caves and catacombs, holds the whole complex together. The independent company Lalibela Eco Trekking Tours, owned and operated by a local, Molla Kassaw, offers experiences of up to four days, including the UNESCO World Heritage site and hikes to other archeological and historic sites. lalibela-eco-trekking.com

Trekking the Rift

Photo by Stephane Hermellin

Since being formally established in 2017, the 650-kilometre, 40-day Jordan Trail hike is shaping up to be the Camino de Santiago of the Middle East. Following the Great Rift Valley for almost the entire length of the country, hikers see both breathtaking scenery and reminders of 10,000 years of history. Starting in Um Qais, the trail passes Ajloun Castle, Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea and Petra before reaching Aqaba in the south. But it seems wrong to single out specific heritage and geological sites—there are photo-ops everywhere. Although the “Jordan Trail” is new, some of these footpaths date back thousands of years, and have provided ways to conduct business and interact with people far away. Some Bedouin tribes have been responsible for developing southern sections of the trail. Fifty-two villages along the route provide places to stay and enjoy the Jordanian culture. Although it’s possible to do the trail, or parts of it, independently, the organization that coordinates the trail has lists of licenced guides, escorts and service providers for the route. jordantrail.org

Photo by Julien Mauceri

Pastoral Splendour The ferry ride to pretty Porquerolles, the largest of the four Îles d’Hyères off the Meditteranean coast of southeastern France, whizzes by in just 15 minutes. But the other side feels like another world. Once a base for fishers and farmers, the island is now home to the Fondation Carmignac, an art collection established by Paris-based billionaire financier Édouard Carmignac. The collection, which includes works by Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Roy Lichtenstein, is jaw-dropping. The galleries are located in a renovated farmhouse, now a hypermodern villa seemingly beamed down from another planet, and the sculpture collection overflows on the 15 hectares of parkland surrounding it. But even more impressive is the island landscape. Roughly eight square kilometres in size, the island’s bays, beaches and rolling farmland feel remote and liberating. Accomodations on the island lean toward modest auberges. These can be very magical. But as the region of Toulon-Hyères is halfway between bustling Marseilles and glitzy Cannes, there are luxury resorts near at hand. Just 40 minutes away, Ile Rousse Hotel Thalazur Bandol has a sea view, spacious spa and a Michelin-starred restaurant. fondationcarmignac. com; hyeres-tourism.co.uk; thalazur.fr

Agenda

Where We’re Exploring Next

Take the Plunge

Inspired by a jam of floating timber on a river, Arctic Bath in the village of Harads in northern Sweden is much more than a pile of logs, though it might look it from a distance. A circular building out in the Bodträskfors river, the floating open-air cold bath has 12 private cabins, a spa, cold bath, hot bath and various saunas. It’s aimed at those who like to do their dipping in ice-cold environs—it’s just 50 kilometres south of the Arctic Circle. Downstream from the spa complex, six floating hotel cabins have private access from the shore via foot-bridges, while there are other accommodations for those who would prefer to stay on dry land. This folks in this region of Swedish Lapland have a thing for quirky accommodation. The nearby Treehotel offers visitors a stay in one of seven structures—one is shaped like a UFO, another like a bird’s nest—up in the green canopy. arcticbath.se; treehotel.se

Balinese Mindfulness

While many resort properties are shaping their menus, environment and programming around wellness, few have taken it on as seriously as Bali’s new Revīvō. A collaboration between a yoga teacher/juice bar entrepreneur and Pavilions Hotels & Resorts (run by its own free spirited impresario, UK-born, Hong Kong-based Gordon Oldham), Revīvō is not so much a resort that offers wellness options than a holistic retreat that has all the comfort and service of an exclusive, 32-room luxury resort. Pavilions are spread across three hectares of teak-tree forest in the hills of Nusa Dua in south Bali. Although lots of custom options are available, there is a regular schedule of three-day immersive programming that focuses on everything from emotional balance and mind training to anti-ageing and longevity. The menu, designed by “creative nutritionist” chef Aliwalu, focuses on seasonal ingredients. Dishes are usually prepared with a Balinese twist, but, again, the menu can be adapted to each guest’s needs. Traditional fasting items like juices, elixirs, vitamin boosts and organic teas can all be included. A second REVĪVŌ is planned for France in the next year or so. revivoresorts.com

Regal Rediscovery Defined by bear-claw-like marks on the landscape just south of Lake Ontario, New York’s Finger Lakes district is a remarkably diverting cross-border excursion. And the recently reopened Esperanza Mansion makes an ideal base to explore the vineyard-filled region. Esperanza was built in 1838 by John Nicholas Rose, a Virginia farmer who moved to the area and lived on the estate overlooking Keuka Lake until 1870. The eight-room neoclassical property has had many incarnations since then (including being listed in the National Registry of Historic Places), most recently a major renovation and relaunch last summer. esperanza-mansion.com 20

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Weekender

TRAIN OF THOUGHTFULNESS

Chichibu

Perfect prefectures worth leaving Tokyo for

he metropolis of Tokyo is a tourist paradise, known for experiences both traditional and modern. While many vacations to Japan begin and end in the country’s dynamic capital, a traveller really should go beyond in between: the country’s other prefectures (think counties) showcase a startling diversity in cuisine, culture and climate that you just won’t find in the big city. From sacred mountains to stoic castles, Japan’s lesser-known regions hold a wealth of delightful day trips only a short transit ride away. —JAKE SEGUIN

GO GREEN IN SHIZUOKA

The coastal prefecture of Shizuoka lies southwest of Tokyo; its verdant fields and mountain views make it a scenic candidate for a trip via shinkansen, Japan’s famed bullet train service. With a reputation as Japan’s foremost tea-growing district, lovers of matcha and sencha will find no shortage of joy touring the fields, picking their own leaves and participating in a tea ceremony. Nature lovers can continue to the Hanamatsu Fruit Park and take in the endless orchards of strawberries and apples, while the adventurous can test themselves on the slopes of Mount Omuro. With the imposing majesty of Mount Fuji looming just over head, Shizuoka is a natural playground for those ready for a break from all things urban. GET THERE: The JR Tokaido Shinkansen will get you to Shizuoka in an hour, if you opt for the fastest train. Those favouring a slower pace will have plenty of time to admire the incredible foliage of the countryside.

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bamboo forest photo by Daniel Klein; Buddha photo by Charles Deluvio

Shizuoka

BEHOLD THE BLOOM IN CHICHIBU

Tokyo

Nestled between forested mountains dotted with venerable ancient shrines, the idyllic city of Chichibu has recently become the star of Saitama prefecture for one big (and pink) reason: the explosion of rosy moss that makes Hitsujiyama Park a must-visit in spring. Chichibu is also a foodie’s delight, its beloved traditional kaiseki cuisine making abundant use of the bounty of the Aragawa River in aromatic dishes like sweetfish on rice. In December, visitors can watch the quiet town come alive with its Night Festival: a 300-year-old celebration with floats, fireworks, wood carving and flute music that just might become the highlight of your trip. GET THERE: Seibu Railway offers a direct ride from Tokyo’s Ikebukuro to Seibu Chichibu station. Keep your eyes open as you ride: you might just catch a glance of some of Saitama prefecture’s famous hot air balloons on the horizon.

Hakone

Kamakura

HEAL BODY AND SOUL IN HAKONE

Just over an hour west of Tokyo via shinkansen, the mountainous Hakone is viewed by many as the heart and soul of Japan—and for good reason. The unmistakable silhouette of Mount Fuji rising over the tranquil waters of Lake Ashi is a national treasure that will continue to grace millions of postcards until the end of time. Those who don’t venture to Hakone to climb do so to bathe: the region’s geothermal activity has made it one of Japan’s best hot spring (Onsen) destinations. The traditional ryokan (inns) in the region have perfected the art of hospitality and wellness over thousands (yes, thousands) of years, providing authentic Japanese atmosphere and accommodation. If marvelling at the majesty of Fuji from the comfort of a bubbling hot spring sounds like your cup of kombucha, Hakone is where you need to be. GET THERE: The Odakyu Railway runs an 85-minute trip from Shinjuku station. Japan Railways can get you as far as nearby Odawara before you’ll need to transfer—which could be preferable if you’d like to visit the beautiful castle there.

TOUR THE TEMPLES IN KAMAKURA

The home of the famous Great Buddha of Kotoku-in, the seaside city of Kamakura has cemented itself as a destination of choice for pilgrims and temple-hoppers. Kamakura is steeped in the architectural and religious trappings of Japan’s medieval eras, offering a compelling glimpse at the past and the future of the Buddhist tradition in Japan. Beloved temples like Hasedera and Hokokuji present the gravitas of Tokyo’s Sensō-ji without any of the distracting bustle, offering opportunities to hike through bamboo gardens, delve into sacred caves and admire misty mountains. Once your spirit is sufficiently cleansed, wrap up your trip by cleansing your body: the popular Yuigahama beach is just a few minutes on foot from the station and is lined with restaurants serving up scrumptious sea fare. GET THERE: The JR Yokosuka line connects Kamakura and Tokyo station in one easy, hour-long trip. JR also offers a helpful combo pass with the Enoden line, providing easy access to Enoshima.

Agenda Stay

‘IT TAKES SOME EFFORT TO LOOK LIKE THIS’

“M

“Of course, the house had a history before Julia Roberts showed up”

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omma, momma, momma, momma, this nail polish is drying way too dark,” I yell as I run down the white and mahogany staircase, reenacting Julia Roberts’s wedding day scene in the 1989 film, Steel Magnolias. I’m having a kid-in-a-candy-store moment as I take in the Hollywood familiarity of the Steel Magnolia House. I’ve seen it several times on screen and now firsthand, on a visit to a house that, postHollywood, has become a bed and breakfast. Shot entirely in Natchitoches (pronounced NackA-tish) and the Cane River Creole area in Louisiana, the beloved film turns 30 this year and the town is celebrating the anniversary. Based on a true story, the film’s screenwriter, Natchitoches native, Robert Harling, used the film to pay tribute to his mother and sister and all their friends. It famously features such luminaries as Sally Field (M’Lynn), Julia Roberts (Shelby), Darryl Hannah (Annelle), Shirley MacLaine (Ouiser), Olympia Dukakis (Clairee) and Dolly Parton (Truvy). Steel Magnolias tells the story about friendship, heartache, laughter, tears, strength, letting go, difficult decisions and the extraordinary events that we go through on this journey called life. It defines what it takes to be a delicate flower yet channel the power to support the strength of steel. The film opens on a quiet residential street lined with Spanish-moss covered live oak trees. Louisianans sit in their rocking chairs on their porches as children run through the middle of town showcasing the French-inspired architecture. To be honest, it hasn’t changed much. The six original brick pillars frame the porch where the rocking chairs are still located. White shutters line the windows, while a magnolia-wreathed doorway leads to the staircase and front parlour. Taking it all in, I can’t help but be flooded with emotion and awe. Of course, the house had a history before Julia Roberts showed up. Built as a family home in the 1830s, it was bought in the early 1900s to be used as a store and was later purchased by Jackson L. Bryan, who was rumoured to have

played a role in the Underground Railroad. The four-storey structure was converted into Steel Magnolia House in 2014. Operated by Dan and Desiree Dyess, the B&B has six bedrooms and baths, including Shelby’s room, decorated with iconic photos from the movie. The place is furnished with crystal chandeliers, eight gas-lit fireplaces with marble mantles overtop, original wood flooring and several antiques resting permanently within the home. A 75-square-metre guest house sits alongside the carport where the infamous armadillo cake was served. Back on the porch, I sit in a white rocking chair taking in the peaceful setting that is this historical Louisiana city. Established in 1714 by French Explorer Louis Juchereau de St. Denis (born in Beauport, Quebec), Natchitoches is the original French colony and the oldest settlement in the Louisiana Purchase. With a modern population of more than 18,000, the small city offers a unique blend of French, Spanish, African, American Indian and Creole culture, making it an ideal stop for visitors driving north from New Orleans and Plantation Country. Just a 10-minute walk from the house is the National Historic Landmark District, spanning 33 blocks and showcasing 300 years of history. I walk along the Beau Jardin Water Park & Garden (featured in the movie’s Easter egg hunt scene) and admire the exhibits of legendary athletes Terry Bradshaw and Shaquille O’Neal at the Louisiana Sports Hall of Fame & Northwest Louisiana History Museum. The town also boasts the oldest General Store in all the state, Kaffie-Frederick General Mercantile, where they still use their first cash register (run by a hand crank) purchased in 1917. History aside, the Natchitoches meat pie is so renowned, it’s been designated the official State Meat Pie of Louisiana. Filled with ground beef, ground pork, onions and spicy seasoning fried or baked until golden brown, it’s a snack Julia Roberts herself might approve of. Bed and breakfast from $230/night. steelmagnoliahouse.net —SABRINA PIRILLO

Photo by Tomoko Uji

30 YEARS AFTER STEEL MAGNOLIAS, NATCHITOCHES, LOUISIANA, HAS STILL GOT HEART

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Agenda

Travel Two Ways

LITERARY SET OR THE GRACIOUS HOST Checking into the warm and welcoming Bloomsbury Hotel on Great Russell Street felt like arriving at someone’s home. It is no surprise that even the lobby feels homey, as the hotel is family-owned. In the first half of the 20th century, the area—London’s Bloomsbury, a charming, mostly 18th-century neighbourhood— was the stomping ground of the storied Bloomsbury Set. (Yes, Virginia, there was a real Virginia Woolf, who palled around with Vita Sackville-West, John Maynard Keynes, E. M. Forster and the rest of that celebrated pack). The Grade II-listed building was designed in 1928 by Sir Edwin Lutyens, a renowned architect of his time, whose talents were arguably equal to those of Christopher Wren. Lutyens was responsible for notable stretches of northeast London, parts of New Delhi (Including the imposing India Gate), the British Embassy in Washington, D. C., and—of all things—Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House. The latter, created to commend fine British craftsmanship, was not constructed as a “play thing” (and is on display in Windsor Castle); it was subsequently the inspiration for this hotel’s design. When erected, the edifice was the YWCA’s Central Club, where country gentlewomen could reside whilst in London. The hotel, a member of the Doyle Collection, underwent a massive renovation two years ago, restoring the entrance to the side of the property on a private lane, and refurbishing the original, striking Portland Stone steps, as well as the Lutyens-designed, decorative ironwork. Lauded as Lutyens’ finest neo-Georgian structure, the edifice now has all the 21st-century amenities a traveller craves, including heated floors and a TV embedded in the mirror in the loo. The reception area is cozy with the youthful staff garbed, not in starchy uniforms, but in chic mufti. Perched in an open china niche is a samovar with spiced tea and enticing tea crackers. The foyer in my room was roomier than most studio apartments, wallpapered with a period-inspired botanical print and outfitted with a haberdasher’s armature, just like home. The desk proffers handsome stationery, a quaintly illustrated neighbourhood shopping guide and a custom-fabricated volume with writings from members of the Bloomsbury Set. It is very fitting that the hotel has works by so many Bloomsbury writers (just as the famous Doll House has original, miniature works by the likes of Rudyard Kipling, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, A. A. Milne and Thomas Hardy), as the management takes its heritage very seriously. The Chesterfield- and book-laden Seamus Heaney Library, named after the late Nobel Laureate (a regular guest), offers an intimate haven for both individuals and as a meeting setting. The two jewels in the building: The lower-level Bloomsbury Club Bar, which blends old-school romance and the splendour of a bygone, fashionable era, perhaps suitable for the hedonistic Bloomsbury crew (inventive cocktails are named for members of the Set); and the double-height, dramatic (more than 185 square metres) Coral Room, a razzle-dazzle bar decorated in antique mirrors, custom-commissioned artwork and unique, Murano-glass chandeliers. As I said, just like—well, sort of—home. Rooms from $450/night. doylecollection.com/bloomsbury 26

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Febuary | March 2020

LUXE LIFE IN LONDON – by Ruth J. Katz –

THE GLAMOROUS PATRONS Are these concierges telepathic? Just maybe. Before I had even completed check-in at the sophisticated Dorchester Hotel on Park Lane, overlooking a tableau of Hyde Park’s velvety, Kelly green canopy, one of the ever-ready, ever-present concierges knew exactly who I was and delivered an envelope to me. That instant recognition is clearly but one of the many hospitable touches that keep regulars coming back to this bastion of politesse and sophistication. Officially opened in 1931, the hotel has been home to the likes of General Eisenhower (while planning the Normandy invasion), Ernest Hemingway (during his war correspondent days), the poet Cecil Day-Lewis, Somerset Maugham, Elizabeth Taylor (apocrypha has it that the bathrooms of her usual suite were reclad with rosy-pink marble to suit her taste and complexion), Karl Lagerfeld, Tom Cruise, Alfred Hitchcock, Nelson Mandela and countless other A-listers. Prior to its present incarnation, the site itself was known as the Manor of Hyde, and was later church land, until the future Earl of Dorchester acquired it. Ultimately, an Italian-style palazzo was built here, which subsequently housed the American Embassy. Ambassador Whitelaw Reid hosted a splendid July Fourth gala for 4,000 in 1907, causing a nightmare of a traffic jam. Forty years later, Prince Philip held his bachelor party here. Today, that stretch of Park Lane, bookended by Marble Arch to the north and Wellington Arch to the south, has been widened and landscaped—although the harem of prestige vehicles outside The Dorchester (think Daimler, Maserati, Ferrari, Bentley) might cause yet another bottleneck—of gawkers. The thoroughfare is, indeed, a grand, multi-lane boulevard, lined with stately hotels on its east side, where the “Grand Dowager” Dorchester holds court. Upon entry, you will spy the seemingly miles-long Promenade, awash in peach-silk draperies, sumptuous carpets, and celadon and mint-green upholstered settees. Off this esplanade of elegance are the hotel’s renowned boîtes, including the three-Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse, The Grill and The Bar, a glam saloon, with stalagmite, vermillion- and poppy-coloured blown glass sculptures. Sir David Tang’s (of Shanghai Tang fame), China Tang Cantonese destination-restaurant is downstairs, and worth the descent. One other benefit of lodging at The Dorchester: You can venture across the car park, wrangling those Lamborghinis, and effortlessly dine at 45 Park Lane, a sister-hotel in the Dorchester Collection. The smaller auberge features one of culinary wizard Wolfgang Puck’s eight steakhouses, CUT. And settling in is ever-so-easy here. The 250-plus rooms are all decorated in muted tones, and all are slightly different. However, each has some of the many Dorchester touches: four-poster or canopied beds, elegant wallcoverings (playful toile de Jouy, for example), a chaise longue, a Recamier and a cache of amenities. Thank the nighttime housekeeping staff for the mini-atomizer of Deep Sleep Pillow Spray, an alchemic mix of chamomile and lavender, perched on the pillow. One last note: For further relaxation, a visit to The Dorchester’s spa and its eatery, The Spatisserie, is a must. It is truly one of the most stylish and sybaritic spas I’ve been to, with its striking fusion of 1930s Art Deco allure and 21st-century edginess. Rooms from $850/night. dorchestercollection.com BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

Agenda Cruise

FOLLOW YOUR DREAM THESE CRUISES GLADLY CATER TO SPECIAL INTERESTS – by LIZ FLEMING –

ot every destination is perfect for every traveller, not every meal is perfect for every diner and certainly not every cruise is perfect for every cruiser. The latest offerings by the industry’s leading cruises provide lots of choices. So zoom in on what you love before you head to the harbour.

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Febuary | March 2020

Photo by Annie Spratt

A One Ocean cruise breaks waves (and sometimes ice) in the Canadian Arctic. BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

A journey down Nordfjord, one of the great Norwegian fjords.

ADVENTURE’S CALLING

On a One Ocean Labrador and Torngat Mountains Explorer expedition, the Far North demands a traveller’s undivided attention. Whether kayaking, navigating a steep mountain trail or photographing polar bears on a nearby shore, the stellar environments take mindfulness to a whole new level. Along Canada’s rugged northeastern coastline, ports of call include Gros Morne National Park, L’anse Aux Meadows, the Torngat Mountains and Iqaluit. One Ocean used to sail very basic Russian icebreakers. But their newest expedition ship, The Resolute, offers a whole new level of comfort, bordering on luxury. The cabins, dining areas and lounges have all been completely refreshed, but the down-home fun and fascinating on-board learning experiences have been kept carefully intact. oneoceanexpeditions.com

HIPSTER VIBES

LET US ENTERTAIN YOU

Food remains one of the biggest selling features of most cruises, but some are a cut above.

CHOW HOUNDS

To be honest, most ships offer pretty spectacular dining experiences, but if learning to cook is your passion, then the Oceania Marina and Riviera are the ships for you. Featuring gleaming, state-of-the-art culinary centres with teaching kitchens that are enough to make James Beard’s eyes water, these ships offer serious cooking classes, where every student has an elegantly outfitted cooking station. You’ll find top quality skillets, cooktops and chef’s knives. Taught by highly trained instructor chefs, some of the themed cooking classes even include an exclusive culinary tour ashore. Shop in an exotic market or visit an organic farm and chat with the grower—it all depends on the ports you visit and the delectable imagination of the chefs. oceaniacruises.com 30

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From full-on Broadway production shows of Jersey Boys and Havana, to comedians who do both family-friendly and adult-only sets, to the onboard Beatles tribute band that rocks the Cavern Club every night, you’ll be singing and dancing the whole time aboard Norwegian Bliss. Hit Madame Lulu’s New Orleans Speakeasy, an interactive musical and theatrical performance that includes five signature cocktails and enjoy live music everywhere from the Observation Lounge to the Atrium to the Sugarcane Mojito Bar. Country music lovers will have to check out the house band performing in Q, the best BBQ joint this side of Texas. ncl.com/ca/en/cruise-ship/bliss

THE BEST KIND OF FAMILY BONDING

Others may try, but nobody does family travel like the Adventures by Disney River Cruises. With itineraries featuring everything from active excursions to castle and museum tours, as well as custom-designed onboard activities, everyone will be happy. Even ordinarily blasé teens will enjoy special programming, while their little brothers and sisters join in the Junior Adventurer dinners and Disney movie nights. The adults, if they want to go adulting, might try wine-tasting or a bit of gourmet dining. adventuresbydisney.com/river-cruising-with-disney

Landscape Photo by Steinar Engeland; Food Photo by Kamil Kalbarczyk

For those who think river cruises are great for granny, but certainly not for super-cool themselves, Uniworld’s U cruises are winning over a whole new generation of adventurers. Firstly the have the destinations in Germany, Austria, Slovakia, the Netherlands and Hungary—27 ports of call, seven countries and three rivers. But their experiences also aim to be culturally immersive, with activities like kayaking, yoga, TRX classes, hiking, craft brewery visits, foodie tours and more. Nighttime entertainment leans towards internationally renowned DJs. Be prepared to stay up late. ubyuniworld.com

Château de Chantilly, Chantilly, France

Experience a different type of royal oui . DAY 2 On your guided tour of the grand stables of the Château de Chantilly — the largest stables in Europe, built by the seventh Prince of Condé – you’ll be charmed by the royal’s extravagant ode to the noble beast. Later, as you and fellow Globe travellers are served a dinner of French delicacies in the idyllic Maison de Sylvie, you’ll understand just how it felt to be a 18th-century prince.

For more cruise details or to book your cabin, call Scenic at 1 - 855 - 863 - 8683 or visit G LO B EA N D M A I LC RU I S E S .CO M

Bordeaux Itinerary

Day 1 May 25

Day 2 May 26

Day 3 May 27

Day 4 May 28

Day 5 May 29

Day 6 May 30

Day 7 May 31

Day 8 June 1

Day 9 June 2

Day 10 June 3

Add-On June 4

Chantilly

Cadillac

Pauillac

Blaye

Libourne

Bordeaux

See website for pricing, full details, itinerary inclusions and exclusions and Scenic River Cruise terms and conditions. Cruise provided by Scenic Canada. All travel arrangements, reservations and bookings will be made with Scenic, a company wholly independent of The Globe and Mail. Dates, itineraries, program details and costs are given in good faith based on information available at the time of posting, and subject to change. The Globe and Mail does not guarantee the attendance of any particular host. See website for host schedule. The Globe and Mail, its affiliates, and their respective officers and employees, do not assume any responsibility for the financing, arranging or conduct of the cruise and will not be liable for any damages or financial loss to person or property of any description that might occur in connection with the cruise operated by and arranged through Scenic. Pricing based on double occupancy. Single supplement applies. Please see website terms and conditions for details at www.globebordeauxcruise.com.

Agenda

Entertaining

hen Victor Bergeron borrowed $500 in 1934 and headed across the bridge from San Francisco to Oakland, he must have had visions of palm trees dancing in his head. The entrepreneur spotted a space across the street from his parents’ grocery store, and snapped it up. Hinky Dink’s, Bergeron’s first cocktail bar and restaurant, was born. Bergeron boosted the tropical décor, added a bit of Polynesian kitsch (exotic at the time) and earned the nickname, The Trader. Hinky Dink’s soon morphed into Trader Vic’s, inspiring visions of adventures in the spice trade and dreams of travel to far-flung atolls and islands. Tiki culture was suddenly mainstream. Bergeron wasn’t the only one in on the trend. Donn Beach, who operated the Don the Beachcomber restaurants themed around the same idea, was a friendly rival—particularly behind the bar. Both claimed to have invented the Mai Tai, and both were big proponents of rum spirits in their cocktails, serving the “grog” in Tiki mugs. The stylized mugs, usually ceramic, are based on the Tiki carvings that originated from New Zealand’s Maori culture, inspired by its myths and legends and not unlike something you might see carved on a

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totem pole here in Canada. (Totally unrelated fun fact: Trader Vic himself was half Canadian; his father, a French Canadian, was a waiter and owner of a grocery store in the Bay area). The fascination grew to a fad in the ’50s and ’60s. Drinks with monikers like Daiquiri, Mai Tai and Zombie (a Don the Beachcomber classic, served in skull-shaped or ceramic grimacing-faced vessels) piqued the exotica interest of a fairly white-bread America. But as we’re nearing our era’s own Roaring Twenties, it’s back. We’re still in the mood to escape, even if just for a night, and fall in love with the Tropics: potted palms, Hawaiian-print shirts, banana leaf-print wallpaper and fabrics, are all de rigueur again. In Toronto, the all-things-Hawaiian restaurant Miss Thing’s does the hula on West Queen West, with both Hawaiian and Tiki culture as its cue. Poke, pork and pineapple play big on the menu. This resto-bar cites the man himself as an influence—the Crab Rangoon as a side dish is the chef’s take on Trader Vic’s own recipe— with Pupu platters (that’s Polynesian tapas to you and me), and big, shareable drinks encouraging communal conviviality. Just down the road is the Shameful Tiki Room, which also has a Vancouver location, which puts on a soundand-light show for certain drink orders.

False Idol, a tiki bar in San Diego that’s also riding the hidden speakeasy trend, can only be found if you brave a short, dark tunnel lined with red-glowing shrunken skulls on the walls. And, speaking of Trader Vic’s, the company still runs about two dozen outposts around the globe, including London, Tokyo and Dubai. In the new book, Tiki: Modern Tropical Cocktails, by Brooklyn-based rum expert and cocktail consultant Shannon Mustipher, the spirits educator and founder of Women Who Tiki, a women-only bartenders, tropical pop-up, attempts to dispel the myth of “…rum as too sweet, and Tiki as tacky.” And “…to debunk these clichéd notions,” and champion rum as a versatile spirit. Of course, as any mixologist worth their rim-salt, Mustipher also throws in a few recipes using vodka, gin and whiskey, among other spirits, but for the recipe she’s shared with us here, it’s all about rum and a little bit of tiki theatrics (think fire-y torches and volcanos) she learned from a fellow grog guru. “I not only want to share recipes and know-how,” writes Mustipher, “but also to inspire the passion that exploring the unknown can bring.” We say cheers to that. missthings. com; shamefultikiroom.com

Photos and recipe from Modern Tropical Cocktails by Shannon Mustipher, courtesy Rizzoli New York

Talking Tiki

Are you a Mai Tai or a Zombie? Victoria Bass shakes off her grass skirt and checks out the old-is-new-again trend

Photos clockwise from far left: Reggae-inspired Kingston Soundsystem; author and spirits educator Shannon Mustipher; a sampling of citrus garnishes; cover drink Island of Piña; our recipe pick Strangers in Paradise; Paraiso Eterno; Halekilani.

Strangers in Paradise While the prevailing perception of mezcal is that it is smoky, gravelly, and even rough, in fact, it can also, by turns, be floral, fruity, silky, smooth, and refreshing. This recipe blends a mezcal espadín with a heavy dark rum, taking a cue from the blending of a heavy and light rum in a Mai Tai. This version then takes an about-face from that original template, focusing on darker, savory flavours while pushing the citrus to the rear.

INGREDIENTS 1 ounce rhum agricole blanc

1/2 1/2 1/2 3/4 3/4 1/8

ounce aged rum ounce mezcal espadín ounce ginger liqueur ounce macadamia syrup ounce fresh lime juice ounce Fernet Vallet

Garnish: Lime shell, scored Mint sprig Pineapple spears Dehydrated pineapple wedge Combine all but fernet in a shaker with cubed ice. Shake and pour all contents into a skull or tall Tiki mug. Top with pebbled ice and float fernet on top. Garnish with a scored lime shell, fresh mint, 2 to 3 pineapple spears, and a dehydrated pineapple wedge. Excepted from Modern Tropical Cocktails by Shannon Mustipher, Rizzoli New York, 2019. $40.

Agenda

Local Expert

Postcard from

Porto One of Europe’s prettiest cities, Porto has a lot more going for it than just delicious wine. Canadian expat Gail Aguiar gives us a tour

HOTEL One place I like to bring people to is Pestana Porto—A Brasileira. It used to be a coffee shop and it was painstakingly restored to maintain the original style of the building, which took years. The service is good, the location is excellent, close to Avenida dos Aliados. The vibe is a mix of Italian and French, very open and airy. pestanacollection.com

ART SPACE One of the most visited museums in the world, Serralves is a big place, with galleries, a villa, a park, gardens. It feels like you’re walking around on a rich person’s estate. At the same time, the architecture is very modern. Although there’s a permanent collection, it’s the temporary exhibitions that get most of the attention. serralves.pt

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COFFEESHOP The Portuguese drink coffee all day long. There are regional styles and lots of different ways of making it, but it’s usually about what you eat with the coffee—the pastries. Majestic Café is a beautiful Belle Époque space. It opened in the 1920s. There are a lot of tourists so it’s best to go close to opening or closing when it’s not so busy. It has the same owners as Guarany Café, which dates back to the 1930s and is about a 10-minute walk away. They’re both very historic places. cafemajestic.com; cafeguarany.com

Photos courtesy of Gail Aguiar

ail Aguiar had made it a policy of visiting a new country every year for her birthday. In 2011, she decided on Portugal. While touring Porto, she fell in love with the city and just happened to meet the man who would become her husband—done and done. Working as a photographer, writer and relocation consultant, the Canadian expat quickly learned how things work in her adopted hometown. Porto has evaded major wars and natural disasters, so the architecture of its historic centre remains old and intact—there are few concrete bunkers interfering with the postcard moments. “When you’re in the centre, you could be in Medieval times. It would take someone walking by in modern clothing to realize what year it was.” Though the city itself has a population of less than 300,000, the metropolitan area has 2.3 million people, making it a perfect mix of low key and cosmopolitan. In her own words, here are Aguiar’s recommendations for visitors. gailatlarge.com

NEIGHBOURHOOD Portugal is laid out by parishes and the parish of Cedofeita is a mix of the old. It has the oldest church in Porto, older than medieval, maybe the 10 th century. It has old buildings and new buildings and it’s really changing as well, very lively with lots of galleries and bars. Although it’s just outside of the centre, it’s still a place where I’d recommend people stay. It’s residential, historic, but it’s also a place where you can get some sleep.

SECRET OF THE CITY

FINE DINING

There’s one building that nobody talks about. Pousada Palácio de Freixo, which dates back to 1750. It was a huge, Baroque palace built by Nicolau Nasoni, the same architect who designed the big monuments in the city. He was an Italian guy who married a local woman and did all of his best work in Portugal. People overlook this one because it’s outside of the city in a parish tourists never go. About a decade ago, it was turned into a luxury hotel. You can get to it by biking along the riverfront. pestanacollection.com

Euskalduna Studio is tiny, just six tables. And it’s a 10-course menu where you don’t know what you’re going to eat. You’re in there for four hours, at least. The food is very experimental, but there is a lot of seafood. Chef Vasco Coelho Santos is young, but very up and coming. Everyone thinks he’s going to get a Michelin star any day now. euskaldunastudio.pt

CASUAL DINING Casa Guedes has the one thing that everyone should try, sandes de pernil com queijo (pork shank sandwich). It’s hyper-traditional. There are two brothers who married two sisters and they have one employee. They make everything exactly the same as when they first opened the place. There are no sandwiches like this; they sometimes run out of ham before closing time. You’d have it with a beer.

ATTRACTION In São Bento Railway Station, which dates back to 1905, they have 20,000 tiles depicting different chapters of Portuguese history. Panels depicting harvests, panels depicting voyages at sea. It’s an active railway station but there’s lots of space to stop and look around. It’s even used as a concert venue. It’s hard to photograph because it’s a 360-degree tile experience. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been in there and I’m always seeing something new. 35

Agenda Dine

MOTHER

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Agenda

Local Expert

MAYA What puts the cuisine of Mexicoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s YucatĂĄn region in a league of its own? ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH takes a bite

Photos these pages clockwise from top left: cochinita pibil; the fire stove; serving the results; tamales with salsa roja; annatto seeds; a traditional Maya village. 37

he staples of Mexican cuisine—corn tortillas, carnitas, guacamole and salsas—may be familiar to many Canadian palates. But in the province of Yucatán, on that famed peninsula that curls between the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean, visitors will find unique, less famous dishes that reflect the region’s enduring Mayan influences. The geographical separation from the rest of Mexico has allowed Yucatán to hold onto its Indigenous roots. A good chunk of the citizens of Yucatán, some of whom still consider themselves different from other Mexicans, speak Mayan, and even the Spanish accent in the area has an entrancing singsong lilt. That distinctiveness also naturally extends to its food. Throughout Yucatán, alongside pan-Mexican dishes, diners will find regional dishes like the slow-roasted pork cochinita pibil, citrusy Mayan-style barbecued pork poc chuc, and queso rellenos, which involves stuffing a hollowed-out ball of Edam cheese with fragrant ground beef. The Edam cheese (called “Dutch cheese” by locals) is ubiquitous in Yucatán thanks to the region’s historic proximity to European shipping routes; it’s routinely sprinkled on top of a number of dishes including crispy marquesitas crêpes, Yucatán’s signature street food. Chaya, a leafy shrub most commonly compared to spinach, also shows up in multiple dishes throughout Yucatán, ranging from margaritas to empanadas. A trip to the Yucatán Gastronomy Museum, which opened in 2018 in the state’s capital, Mérida, can help make sense of these local favourites. Inside, the museum features a display detailing 13 key ingredients of pre-Hispanic Mayan cuisine, such as maize, pumpkin and bixa orellana, the shrub that grows the seeds used to make a condiment called annatto, which gives cochinita pibil its distinctive orange colour. But the real magic lives outside in a replica Mayan village, with each hut further detailing the importance of those signature indigenous ingredients. In one hut, a woman shows visitors how to make tortillas by hand, puffing them up on a hot griddle. As I sat down with her she patiently showed me how to spread out the dough by hand (it was not nearly as easy as she made it look), then

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placed it on the stove to let it magically puff up. As I ate it, still warm off the griddle, I marvelled at the simple deliciousness, with no need for additional salsas or fillings. The merging of traditional Mayan food and modern culinary artistry best comes together at Kuuk, a world-renowned fine dining spot located in a converted mansion in the heart of Mérida. Helmed by chef Pedro Evia, Kuuk melds Mayan tradition and modern innovation. The kitchen, for example, is fitted with a custom-made appliance designed to perfectly mimic Mayan underground pibil cooking. Evia’s food is a mix of the same Mayan-inspired ingredients found at the museum, with a side of molecular gastronomy and theatrical plating. Typical dishes on Kuuk’s tasting menu include pibil-cooked pumpkin with a snow of freeze-dried goat cheese sprinkled over top tableside, amberjack ceviche dressed in a pool of jet-black recado sauce and a black persimmon herbal tea concoction served in a mock Coca-Cola bottle. “We work with local producers in the state of Yucatán,” Evia says. “We have 106 cities in Yucatán and we’re trying to identify local producers in every city and work with them to preserve local products.” Over the years, Kuuk’s tasting menu has included everything from a dish served on a chunk of meteorite to a soup dish designed to look like the famous sinkhole pools of Yucatán known as cenotes. In the restaurant’s in-house lab, Evia is working on a library of experimental chewing gums, meant to mimic Yucatán’s natural flavours, Willy Wonka-style. While Kuuk is an extreme version of Mayan-meetsmodern, more approachable versions of that dedication to honouring Yucatán’s culinary roots can be found throughout the state. Mayan culture is far from being ancient history in Yucatán, both on the plate and through the spirit of the people determined to keep it alive. mugy.com.mx; kuukrestaurant.com

Photos these pages: a Mayan woman works her magic over a traditional oven; Kuuk restaurant's pibil-cooked pumpkin with freezedried goat cheese.

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Agenda

Food Diaries

RESCUE NOW FULLY IN CHARGE OF VANCOUVER’S FABLE KITCHEN, CHEF TREVOR BIRD ALSO KNOWS WHEN TO GIVE UP CONTROL WHEN HE NEEDS TO

n the last year, Trevor Bird took over the full ownership of the Vancouver local-ingredientfocused hotspot, Fable Kitchen. Owning one’s own restaurant is the big dream for so many chefs, but it doesn’t mean Bird can rest on his laurels, especially since he’s still running the kitchen, has a wife who’s a grad student and a three-year-old he wants to spend as much time with as possible. “It’s extremely challenging to cook and run your business,” says the two-time finalist on Top Chef Canada and Top Chef Canada All Stars. “I’m very intrigued by it all because I’m always learning new things.” Having gotten his start at Ottawa’s National Art Centre kitchen, Bird has racked up 23 years of experience in Montreal, on Vancouver Island and at MARKET by Jean-George at Vancouver’s Shangri-La Hotel. Since launching Fable Kitchen in 2012, he’s added an

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events business, an ethical meat delivery business called Meatme and Fable Diner, a more casual restaurant on Vancouver’s East Side. He’s given himself a year of non-expansion, while he gets used to being a full owner. “I’ve just started to say no to everything new, so I can focus on what I’m doing now,” says Bird. “It feels good to just focus on one thing and do it well.” —PAUL GALLANT

1 Our good friend was getting married on Bowen Island. They have a lovely property right on the ocean. It was an amazing wedding. I was just getting out of the water prior to that picture. It was my son’s first wedding and he had a great time. He’s such a well behaved kid. We love to spend time outdoors and on the water, but it’s been hard to make time for it.

3 That’s back when I was an apprentice in Ottawa, when I had hair. Making your own mayonnaise for the first time is really magical, especially when you’re hand whisking it. It’s mind-blowing. Now I’ve probably made it 1,000 times, it’s harder to remember that wonder and awe. That was an interesting part of life, extremely difficult. I was on my own at 17, trying to make it in this world with no real support. What I learned, which doesn’t serve me too well, is that the harder you work, the more you can make it, but now I’m caught in the loop of working so goddamn hard.

2 That’s a special we make every now and then when we have too much gnocchi, because we make all our gnocchi in house. We’ll put it on for brunch, which is a big thing here in Vancouver—people wait in lineups for brunch. We make our gnocchi really untraditionally. Instead of roasting the potatoes and making it hot, we roast the potatoes, then cool them off for 24 hours. A lot of moisture leaves them, so we can work less flour into them, so that they’re lighter and fluffier. If you tell an Italian that, they’ll have a hard time.

4 My son and I were on a little hike at Quarry Rock in Deep Cove. He really enjoys being outside and it’s good for bonding. What I like about being a father so far is breaking the cycle of generational pain that was passed on to me. It sounds out there, I know. But what I mean by that is that my kid is three years old, he can identify his emotions, he can express himself. He can feel safe when he doesn’t know what to do. We’ve created a very safe environment for him to be himself. So the thing I have enjoyed about being a father is taking what I’ve learned, unlearning it and teaching him a new way.

5 Khatsahlano is a big music fest in West Vancouver, with 200,000 people attending. We’ve been participating for seven years now. This time, we set up a huge paella pan out front. Paella is a good party trick. It’s super fun and people love it. I used to like all the fancy stuff, doing really small tight plates, but the older I get, the more I like to share experiences with friends, communal eating you can dig into and it tastes really good.

6 I was voted best chef in Vancouver in 2018. It was very confronting for me. It’s not easy to accept awards. It made me explore a lot about my identity and what I was going through and what it means to be a chef. As we grow up in our professions, we start to become our professions. But I’m more than a chef. I’m a father, a husband, a loving person and a business person. 41

Style BOLD PARTNERSHIP

Bold partnership

GENTLEMAN’S HOURS WITH HIS DANIEL WELLINGTON WATCHES, DESIGNER FILIP TYSANDER MAKES VINTAGE HIP In a single moment of connection that sparked a global movement, founder Filip Tysander met an intriguing British gentleman with impeccable yet understated style. The man had a particular fondness for wearing his vintage watches on old, weathered NATO straps. From this single moment, Tysander resolved to design his own watch, minimalist and refined, a watch that would come to define the iconic Daniel Wellington brand.

Over the past eight years, Daniel Wellington has grown its curated assortment of watches and accessories into a truly global movement with nearly five million followers on Instagram and more than 400 retail stores worldwide. From days in the office to nights out on the town and everything in-between, Daniel Wellington offers pieces for every style and any occasion. Here, some key looks. danielwellington.com

CLASSIC NATO The original product inspired by Tysander’s encounter, Daniel Wellington’s NATO straps are the result of the British Navy’s historic design coming together with Scandinavian minimalism. Available in a wide array of colors and patterns, these NATO straps are perfect for every style and any occasion.

CLASSIC LEATHER Sourced in Italy, leathers are meticulously chosen and designed to wear elegantly over time. Available for both the Classic and Petite collections, these leather straps never go out of style.

C LA S SIC RINGS

P E TITE MES H

I C ON I C L I N K

The perfect finishing touch to any outfit, Daniel Wellington’s rings are designed to be delicate, soft and lightweight. Make a style statement with a subtle rose gold or silver Classic Ring, or their hand-enameled versions in Satin White, Dusty Rose, and Desert Sand.

A must-have staple for every modern traveller, their Petite Mesh style is available in a range of dial sizes from 28 to 36mm. Their undeniably sleek mesh straps come in rose gold, silver, or matte black finishes and are just the thing to take your look from everyday to night out in no time.

A modern take on a classic design, the Iconic Link is the long-awaited and much-anticipated revelation behind three years of meticulous craftsmanship and design. The new Iconic Collection by Daniel Wellington continues the brand’s founding principles of creating timeless and elegant, yet expressive pieces.

Style

What to Pack

Valencia THE HOT SPOT

FENDI EYEWEAR Polka dot sunglasses, $362, farfetch.com

EYEWEAR SNEAKERS COMME DES GARÃ&#x2021;ONS PLAY, Converse x CDG high-top sneakers, $200, holtrenfrew.com

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THE TREND Hit the style spot with polka dots, exaggerated or itsy bitsy— on everything, from simple ties and chiffon scarves, to voluminous skirts and dresses. And we’re not talking just black and white here. Neon is also lighting it up.

Balance it with: White button-down shirts, preferably with a twist, pleated skirts, Bermuda shorts, tailored sports coats. Pair it with: More polka dots. Add statement sneakers or vintage-style loafers and you’re spot on.

TAILORED SUIT

Beauty note: A unisex fragrance.

MIDI DRESS

GUCCI Monaco G-dot wool suit, $3,515, gucci.com

RED VALENTINO Flocked tulle and floral-print crepe midi dress, $1,815, modaoperandi.com

BUTTON-DOWN SHIRT

Going Dotty

PLEATED SKIRT

DOLCE & GABBANA Polka dot pleated skirt, $2,295, farfetch.com

TURNBULL & ASSER Sterling silver and polka dot enamel cufflinks, $381 mrporter.com

RETRO CUFFLINKS

VINTAGE STYLE PUMPS

MICHAEL KORS Evangeline polka dot pump, $595, michaelkors.ca

CAROLINA HERRERA Three-quarter sleeve classic shirt, $1,149, farfetch.com

ADRIANA DEGREAS Green polka dot bandeau bikini, $530, modaoperandi.com

BATHING SUIT

Style

Globetrotter

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Febuary | March 2020

AROUND THE WORLD WITH ACTOR

Josh Duhamel A

n actor who’s appeared in TV shows and movies as varied as the Transformers franchise, the daytime soap All My Children, crime drama Battle Creek and the sweet teen comedy Love, Simon, Josh Duhamel is one of those versatile talents who’s at home almost everywhere. Recently appointed brand ambassador for Canadian lifestyle and athleisure brand Lolë, the outdoor enthusiast has also backed Lolë as equity investor and part owner. The partnership coincides with the launch of Lolë’s new travel-wear line for men across North America. “Lolë takes an ‘everyday basic’ and gives it a cutting-edge style that allows you to go from a meeting to a spontaneous hike in the woods, or whatever it is that you’re into,” Duhamel said at the launch. The connection to fashion is not farfetched—Duhamel started out as a model and in 1997 won the title of Male Model of the Year. (A few years ago he confessed to Harper’s Bazaar: “I was really unsuccessful at it. I never felt comfortable posing in front of a camera…. [But] I so wanted to win. I felt like Miss America when I won that thing.”) These days Duhamel has traded in the runway for outdoor adventure and time at his off-the-grid cabin in Minnesota. lolelife.com Where in the world have you felt happiest? My cabin in Minnesota. It’s the place I go to get back to the basics, keep it simple and reconnect. To get away from it all, I go to: Same place I feel the happiest—my cabin in Minnesota. This is truly my little corner of heaven on Earth. It’s where I feel most alive.

Who is the most interesting person you’ve met on your travels? Every time I travel I meet someone interesting. That’s part of the appeal of doing it. What trip-of-a-lifetime lies ahead for you? Machu Picchu.

What’s the one thing you pack for every trip? My toothbrush.

I lost my heart in…. Costa Rica.

What’s your essential item for making travel more comfortable? My Lolë packable jacket, which I can also use as a pillow on the plane.

What’s the place you were/are most nervous about visiting? Africa. It was daunting at first because of all the prep to go (vaccines, etc.), but it ended up being one of the best experiences of my life.

What’s your guilty pleasure while travelling? All dietary discipline goes out the window. What’s your pet travel peeve? When I get woken up on the airplane. What piece of travel advice do you love to share? Try not to plan too much. Who is your favourite travelling companion? None of your business. [Said jokingly.]

Which travel experience most changed your worldview and why? Tanzania. There’s something transformative and impactful about this destination that left an impression I’ll never forget. We got to see animals in their natural habitat and the communities that surround and support them. Those who have nothing are the happiest people I’ve ever met.

“We got to see animals in their natural habitat and the communities that surround and support them” Tell us about a trip of self discovery. I had the opportunity to visit Montreal see where my ancestors come from, as my dad’s side is Canadian. I’d never been, but always wanted to go. This was a chance for me to visit a part of the world my family originally came from. What was a time you pushed yourself? We went to Oahu to really test the brand. Not only was it a lot of fun, but we did some pretty adventurous stuff, from cliff jumping into the ocean, to climbing a crazy hike and skydiving. You think of Hawaii as a place of comfort and easy vacations, but I did things truly outside my comfort zone. If you could live in any other city in the world (other than your own), which would it be and why? San Francisco, because it’s close to everything, skiing, ocean, wine country.

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Far from the Madding Crowd One of the Caribbeanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most exclusive experiences, Anguilla promises much more than privacy, reports VAWN HIMMELSBACH

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W When it comes to choosing a sun-and-sand destination to shake off the winter blues, countless Caribbean destinations are in a position to tempt us. Occasional travellers might even forget which island they’re on, especially those who don’t leave the confines of their resort. Looking out at the Caribbean Sea from the edge of an infinity pool atop a craggy limestone cliff, backed by a white-washed villa inspired by the Greek Isles, not another soul in sight, I realize what sets this island apart. Why Anguilla is the Caribbean island that celebrities seek out when they’re looking to get away from it all. Why so many visitors to Anguilla feel they can find their own little slice of private paradise. I have this view all to myself—aside from my butler, who checks in every now and then to make sure I always have an icy cocktail in hand. Anguilla is perhaps best known for what it’s not. “There are no cruise ports, no mass resorts, no casinos and no jet skis,” says Chantelle Richardson, who works with the Anguilla Tourism Board. I have to ask: “A ban on jet skis?” Yep. The government is fully committed to maintaining the island’s low-key vibe. And it works. Whether doing morning yoga on the beach or partaking in a sunset massage on the stretch of sand in front of my villa, there were no interruptions by jet skis—or drunken tourists or screaming toddlers or anything else for that matter. Just the waves. That’s why celebs like Beyoncé, LeBron James and Justin Bieber have been coming here. “Celebrities go to St. Barth’s to party and they come here to rejuvenate,” says Richardson. At one point, we drive past The Beach House—much grander than a typical beach house, with 1,600 square metres of living space on Meads Bay, one of the best beaches in Anguilla (if one had to choose). Bieber stayed at this villa a few years ago, where he was spotted skateboarding down the street we’re now driving on. So even a celebrity can hang out here without hassles. There are 33 public beaches, and on many of them you’ll find only a handful of people, even in high season. There aren’t sprawling all-inclusive resorts here, nor any high-rise buildings. This is an island of villas—more than 300, in fact—and it’s known for its secluded, unfussy luxury.

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That doesn’t mean there’s nothing to do but hole up in your luxury villa, tempting as that is. Anguilla is considered one of the best Caribbean islands for foodies, with more than 100 restaurants. An array of spa and wellness options, as well as several historic sites and outdoor adventure spots, can also inspire a few outings. And while there are no jet skis, there are ATVs, for those who feel the need to rev an engine. A speck in the Caribbean Sea, only 91 square kilometres, Anguilla is part of the British West Indies. Although the main island is, geologically speaking, a chunk of limestone jutting out of the water, there’s a surprising amount of powdery white sand around, not only on its many beaches, but on the “out” islands, a scattering of uninhabited cays and islets. With sand dunes, low-lying shrubs and limestone bluffs, Anguilla is blessed with a dry climate and little rainfall, so sun and clear, blue skies are the default weather setting. Surprisingly, though, the tourism industry is relatively new, kicking into gear about two decades ago. Even as recently as the 1960s, much of the island lacked electricity and telephone service. Yet, it now features some of the most luxe hotels and epicurean eateries in the Caribbean. The largest resort here is Four Seasons Resort and Residences, once the Viceroy, set atop bluffs overlooking two beaches on Anguilla’s northwest shore, spread out over 14 hectares. Then there’s the romantic Belmond Cap Juluca. Opened in 1988, it was one of the first luxury properties to open on the island, standing apart from competitors with white Greco-Moorish arches that give off a Moroccan vibe. And the Malliouhana, part of the Auberge Resorts Collection, is a glamorous hideaway for the international jet set, reopened in 2014 after an extensive three-year renovation. Newcomer Zemi Beach House Hotel & Spa is set on two-and-ahalf oceanfront hectares of Shoal Bay East, featuring contemporary Caribbean style and a Thai-inspired spa. Also new(ish) is The Reef by CuisinArt—sister property to the CuisinArt Resort—which opened in 2016. This is Anguilla’s newest sustainable luxury resort, powered by a 1.6-hectare solar field. Oh, and it has a yacht club. But the villa lifestyle remains the island’s calling card. The top properties excel at merging a private villa experience with resort-like amenities and five-star service. Long Bay Villas is a good example. Located on secluded Long Bay Beach, each of its three villas (dubbed Sand, Sea and Sky) has five bedrooms with newly renovated interiors, and most bedrooms have private terraces and indoor/outdoor en-suite baths. Each villa also comes with the services of a professional butler and personal concierge to book excursions, arrange a tee time or set up a sunset massage on the beach. The effect is close to that offered by a resort, but without waiting your turn. You don’t have to be a celebrity to feel like one in Anguilla. Paparazzi aren’t the only stress worth escaping to the Caribbean for.

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“Justin Bieber was spotted skateboarding down the street we’re now driving on”

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Anguilla

Essentials Getting there Those who don’t own a private jet or yacht can fly to St. Maarten and take a 20-minute ferry or charter boat to Anguilla (accessible directly from the St. Maarten airport). It’s necessary to clear customs in St. Maarten and then again in Anguilla, although the process is quick and easy.

Get around

Anguilla is a small island, but many of the properties are secluded and many roads are unmarked— hence, the need for a rental car or taxi service. Taxis are widely available, and come in handy for those who have had a few too many rum punches.

Where to find the best

beaches

There’s more to Anguilla than beaches, but its beaches are hard to beat, and there are 33 to choose from. Shoal Bay East, for example, consistently ranks as one of the top beaches in the Caribbean with its 3.2-kilometre stretch of powdery white sand. Sailing excursions can take visitors to Anguilla’s uninhabited “out” islands—such as Anguillita, Prickly Pear Cays, Sandy Island, Scrub Island and Scilly Cay. That can mean sailing past ultra-luxe properties owned by celebrities, hidden from view on land. Several prime swimming and snorkeling spots, like Little Bay, are only accessible by boat. Some of Anguilla’s best beaches are on these out islands. On the pristine white sand of Prickly Pear Cays, for example, there’s no development at all. Just the beach, and a beach bar where sun seekers can order freshly caught lobster and a daiquiri. Those who time it right may even have the beach all to themselves, aside from a few friendly iguanas. The active coral reefs here also make it ideal for snorkeling. Then there’s the aptly named Sandy Island, a dot of sand in the sea, with all a person needs to be happy: sun and sand, a beach bar, live music and fresh seafood. Technically, Sandy Island is a cay, just over a kilometre from the mainland. It took a pounding in 2017 when Hurricane Irma paid a visit, but the beach bar is open for business—minus a few palm trees. Order the grilled lobster, Anguilla crayfish and BBQ chicken, alongside a cold beer. Anguilla isn’t a party island (head to St. Maarten for that), but Sandy Ground can be a fun place for a night out. This sandy stretch of beach is lined with restaurants and beach bars, and on Thursday nights it turns into “party central.” Try bar hopping for reggae beats and rum punch, including the popular “Elvis” rum punch at the Elvis Beach Bar. elvisbeachbar.com

Where to find

Inner Peace

Anguilla’s laid-back vibe makes it easy to get into relax mode—perhaps that’s why the island is emerging as a spa and wellness destination. From resort spas to in-villa services, there are plenty of ways to unwind. Visitors to Zemi Thai Beach House might find themselves doing a double-take; for a second or two it’s possible to think you’re in Thailand. That’s because the spa is housed in a 300-year-old Thai rice barn; each piece of wood was shipped from Thailand and recreated here. Holistic treatments are inspired by the Taino people of Anguilla and employ ingredients like herbs, fruits, muds and salts. There’s an outdoor Bohique mud deck, vitality pool, orchid garden, yoga deck and juice bar. Plus, it has the only hammam on the island and the largest in the Caribbean. CuisinArt isn’t just known for its cuisine. The relaunched Spa by CuisinArt is focused on whole body wellness and biodynamic treatments, including Thai massage, cranio-sacral therapy, anti-aging facials and herb-infused scrubs and wraps, using ingredients from the resort’s organic farm. Fitness classes go a step beyond typical resort offerings, with SUP yoga, aquatic kickboxing and boot camp, plus yoga and meditation. The Spa at Four Seasons Resort & Residences features signature treatments that can only be found on Anguilla, like the double rainbow ritual (the island is known for frequent sightings of double rainbows). There are also treatments specifically for men, including a gentlemen’s pumpkin enzyme foot treatment. Those who don’t feel like heading out to the spa can always have a spa brought to them. It’s easy to arrange a custom in-villa massage through the butler or personal concierge. zemibeach.com; cuisinartresort.com; fourseasons.com/anguilla

Where to

Dine

Serious visitors don’t come to Anguilla only for the beaches; they come for the food. From beach shacks and food trucks to elegant five-star restaurants, there are more than 100 options to choose from on the tiny main island. Anguilla was part of the farm-to-table trend long before it became a trend, in part thanks to the CuisinArt Golf Resort & Spa (by the late Lee Rizzuto, who named it after his kitchen appliance company). Its innovative 1,675-square-metre hydroponic farm provides fresh produce and herbs, used in its many restaurants and even its spa treatments.  CuisinArt is home to Anguilla’s AAA Four Diamond restaurant, Le Bistro at Santorini, with a menu focused on farm, sea and land specialties; it’s also home to the island’s first sushi restaurant. At Malliouhana Resort, Café Celeste features a mix of island and Mediterranean flavours; originally this was a restaurant by Miche lin-starred French chef Michel Rostang, which helped set the culinary standard in Anguilla.

Over at The Belmond Cap Juluca, Pimms is a local institution featuring elevated Anguillan cuisine, like lobster bisque with chive cream and seaweed Johnnie cakes. Blanchards, with its tall, teal shutters, has been hailed as one of the best restaurants on the island. Right next door is its popular Beach Shack for more casual dining, where you can enjoy a fish taco at a picnic table with your toes in the sand. The Strip in The Valley is where you’ll find Anguilla’s food trucks and local specialties like Johnny cakes, BBQ ribs, steamed fish, oxtail stew and conch soup. And though most people might not associate the Caribbean with classic Indian flavours, Good Korma serves up a mean chicken korma. cuisinartresort.com; aubergeresorts.com/ malliouhana; belmond.com/CapJuluca BOLDMAGAZINE.CA

THE SPECT SPECTACULAR AND

THE SUBLI SUB ME Few countries in the world can do pomp and pageantry like Thailand, reports Paul Gallant

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Photos these pages: a detail of the White Temple; the hillside villas at Anantara Layan Phuket. 63

he Chiang Rai Clocktower, an elaborately ornate golden structure with moving parts, seems an unlikely tourist attraction. Yet here I am, standing between two lanes of traffic, staring raptly at the colourful evening lightshow being projected onto it. Unveiled in 2008, the clocktower is right in the middle of a roundabout and, though it’s dazzling, most photos of it end up capturing a motorcycle (or six) whizzing by in the foreground.

But then, here in Thailand, one comes to expect over-the-top beauty in unlikely spots. Even the street signs in Chiang Rai, a laid back city not far from the border with Laos and Myanmar, are elaborately framed, each with a golden bas-relief of spires and barges. Designed by Chalermchai Kositpipat, the artist behind the nearby and equally audacious White Temple, the clocktower is overwhelmed with chofa, the curling, pointed extensions—literally “sky tassels”—that adorn temples and other traditional buildings all over the country. Sky tasselling is almost a national compulsion. As is temple building one-upmanship. Contemporary Thai artists like Putha Kabkaew, a student of Kositpipat, and Thawan Duchanee, considered one of Thailand’s most important artists, have built their own temple-like complexes near Chiang Rai. Visiting them is like stepping into another dimension: Kabkaew’s is a blue dream, Duchanee’s a gothic snake-skinned dystopia. Thailand has a well-earned reputation as an easy-going sunny fun destination—visitors can easily find the perfect beach, jungle, river, urban, romantic or gastronomical adventure suited to their tastes and budget. But the Thai penchant for pageantry adds a sense of awe to all that pleasure. Much of that grandeur comes from Thailand’s national religion, Buddhism, and the country’s deep commitment to its royal traditions. In honour of King Maha Vajiralongkorn’s coronation last May, months of planning and rehearsals went into the Royal Barge Procession, which took place last December. The procession of 52 fantastical barges, in the shape of animals and mythical creatures, navigated grandly down the river that winds through the heart of Bangkok. The history of the barge procession goes back more than 700 years, embodying both religious and royal significance in one glittering event. But visitors don’t have to wait for a coronation to get a sense of the grandness of Thailand’s royal devotion. Imagery of King Vajiralongkorn and Queen Suthida Vajiralongkorn Na Ayudhya pepper public spaces all around the country—on the sides of buildings, in temple complexes, enlivening the busiest roundabouts and the most drab office complexes. These images provide a means to feel part of a deeper culture, even when stuck in a traffic jam. Royalty does not hold a monopoly on Thai extravagance. It’s embedded into every culture practice. Even Thai drag shows elevate what’s traditionally been nightclub entertainment into something truly regal. At Tiffany’s Show in Pattaya, a beachside resort city south of Bangkok, the overdone neoclassical facade of the theatre signals that, during the show, there’ll be no scrimping on production values, satin or rhinestones. The Tiffany’s stage could handle a Broadway production. Attendees might never have heard of the drag performers—or seen drag at all—before buying their tickets. But after the show, they’ll jostle their way through the crowds to have their photos taken with these newly discovered celebrities. With the right amount of Thai razzle-dazzle, every experience can be sublime.

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The taste for the creative flourishes isn’t just about catching our eyes. Just because excellent Thai food can be found on almost every street corner doesn’t mean there aren’t chefs elevating the cuisine and bringing their own impressive approaches to classic Thai ingredients. At Chiang Rai’s Locus Native Food Lab, chef Kongwuth Chaiwongkachon dives deep into Northern Thai cooking. Using ingredients grown within driving distance of the restaurant (a high ceilinged open-concept affair hidden behind a house), he experiments with international preparation methods, producing dishes that leverage Thai flavours, but have the texture and presentation of, say, Western Nouvelle Cuisine. The Lab opened more than three years ago, after Chaiwongkachon moved to Chiang Rai from Bangkok. “We had originally been focusing on national diners, who wanted to try something new, but we’re finding that international customers also want this kind of experience,” he tells me, serving a delicate tartlet of local vegetables. Much of the delight of Thailand is what’s unique about the culture, yet the Thais are not immune to global influence. It’s just that they have a knack for pushing its limits. Bangkok, in particular, has a few lessons to teach about wowing diners. On the rooftop of the Banyan Tree Bangkok, there’s steak and potato gratin on the menu. It’s a perfectly executed mainstay, sure. But it’s the view—tables can be very close to the edge of the roof, 61 storeys up—that give patrons their rush. Though many cities have skyscrapers, Bangkok hoteliers know how to leverage all that height. At 137 Pillars Suites and Residences, in a trendy district just off Sukhumvit Road, the rooftop pool for suite guests is open 24/7. It’s an irresistible treat. Why have a rooftop pool that’s inaccessible after a night of partying? Way past midnight I take the elevator up to the 30th floor to look out over Bangkok. As I splash and soak, I can watch the city itself dry out after a dramatic rainstorm. The air is fresh and clear and the view is astonishing. For those in search of spectacle, Bangkok never gets tired.

The tradition of the royal barges goes back centuries.

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;As I splash and soak, I can watch the city itself dry out after a dramatic rainstorm. The air is fresh

and clear and the view is astonishing. For those in search of spectacle, Bangkok never gets tiredâ&#x20AC;&#x153;

137 Pillars' infinity pool is a perfect place for a dip... and to survey the surrounding city from more than 30 storeys up.

Vertigo restaurant and Moon Bar, at Banyan Tree Bangkok, are perfect places for a bit of drama.

Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wat Arun temple occupies a privileged position river-side.

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Febuary | March 2020

Crab nam phrik curry balls.

Nextlevel Thailand STAY

Located on the banks of the Mae Kok River, Le Meridien Chiang Rai is the ideal embodiment of a visit to the region— idyllic, sensual and artfully executed. It’s hard to pull yourself away from the pool and beautifully landscaped grounds. marriott.com Perhaps Thailand’s best-kept hotel-world secrets, 137 Pillars House in Chiang Mai and 137 Pillars Suites and Residences in Bangkok are distinctive and sophisticated boutique properties with unmatched service. The original Chiang Mai property, a repurposing of the 125-year-old northern headquarters of the East Borneo Trading Company, is a veritable oasis right in the heart of the city, with 30 suites arranged around the original heritage building. The Bangkok property, atop a Sukhumvit shopping district high-rise, is an oasis, too, but of a decidedly more urban variety. 137pillarshotels.com Although the Banyan Tree Bangkok is a veritable institution for its rooftop Moon Bar and Vertigo restaurant (vertigo indeed—it’s a long way down!), it’s actually an ideal Bangkok base. Located in the Sathon/Silom area, the five-star property has a resort-y vibe that’s both business- and family-friendly. And seven restaurants in addition to Vertigo. banyantree.com Built on a hillside overlooking a small photogenic bay, Anantara Layan Phuket Resort is very, very posh and very, very beautiful. Staying in one of the villas, each with its own pool though just a two-minute walk to the beach, it’s possible to believe there’s no one else in the world beyond the lanai. If that’s not indulgent enough, further up the hill, there are gorgeously stylish private residences available for purchase or rental. anantara.com/en/ layan-phuket

SEE

Used only for the most special of occasions, the royal barges spend most of their time in a canalside museum in the heart of Bangkok. The maintenance of all the shimmering surfaces and sculptural features is a full-time job. If you’re lucky, you can watch the artisans work on the detailing. Get to The Royal Barge Museum by taking a boat from Pinklao Bridge Pier. It’s hard to pick just one of Bangkok’s temples as the most spectacular, but we’ll go with Wat Arun. Located riverside the 79-metre-high pagoda is unique in Thailand, but will remind some of Angkor Wat. A pleasant boat ride from the island of Phuket, the karsts of Phang Nga Bay, steep verticals rising out of emerald-green water, give the whole area a fairytale feeling. Some of the karsts can be visited, including what’s become known as James Bond Island (actually Khao Phing Kan), because of its appearance in the 1974 movie The Man with the Golden Gun. Phra That Doi Suthep, built on a mountaintop on the outskirts of Chiang Mai, would make an atheist feel a burst of spirituality. All the golden sculptures, the cool mountain breeze, the monks in their saffron robes—total serenity.

EAT

Thai fare with flare, Bangkok’s The Never Ending Summer makes excellent use of an old jam factory space that feels airy and almost outdoorsy. French-trained head chef Nakul Kavinrat reinvents Thai cuisine with on-trend touches—the menu changes every few months. facebook.com/TheNeverEndingSummer The tropical wall treatment and charming décor touches make a meal at Bangkok’s lush Plu feel like a real night out. Chef Suan Plu draws inspiration from regional cuisines from all over Thailand. The air-dried pork is a must. facebook.com/plubangkok First and foremost, Chiang Rai’s Art Bridge is a cultural project, providing a homebase for the city’s artists. But their riverside restaurant is a happy surprise. Many of the menu items are served in—how to say it?—deliciously flamboyant serving dishes, flowers and all. artbridgechiangrai.org With seating for about 12 people a night, eating at Chiang Rai’s Locus Native Food Lab is an intimate experience. The chef provides information about the ingredients and preparation method with each of the items on the tasting menu. facebook.com/locusnativefoodlab A lifestyle boutique as well as a trendy place for a bite, Chiang Mai’s Woo Café focuses on northern cuisine, but it’s not shy about offering a few western items. The juices, shakes and sweet stuff is all to-die-for. woochiangmai.com Patpong, the commercial hub of the island of Phuket, can be a bit of a zoo, with frenzied tourist-focused restaurants and outrageous entertainment. Kaab Gluay Restaurant provides something of a respite, with authentic well-prepared cuisine and a down-to-earth vibe. facebook.com/kaabgluaypatong

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From a deadly kiss to the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s smallest mummy, the Mexican city of Guanajuato proves to be both utterly romantic and unexpectedly macabre

- by Andrew Brudz -

Previous page: Guanajuato fills a small valley like candy in a cup. This page: An alley narrow enough to kiss across.

“Visitors kiss here for the promise of ‘seven years of happiness, unaware of the ominous l Pípila, a monument depicting a hero of the Mexican Independence movement, watches over Guanajuato from a hilltop some 2,000 metres past” above sea level. A five-hour drive from Mexico City, passing through

better-known San Miguel de Allende, the area was first inhabited by indigenous tribes as far back as 500 BCE. But in the 1500s, its silver mines drew Spaniards looking to strike it rich. Today, its colonial influence—found in awe-inspiring churches, lively plazas and historic hotels— snakes its way up into the hills, a valley cityscape that dazzles with its vibrant hues. Pink, green, blue, yellow and purple stucco houses dot the valley in 360 degrees of hypnotizing colour. Lively sounds ricochet from all directions at almost all hours of the day. Roosters crow at the breaking sunset. Birds chirp to each other from across the mountainsides. The baritone voices of the charming street performers hum throughout the evening. And pulsing latin beats thump from nightclubs into the early morning. But behind the enchanting surface there’s a quirky underbelly: dark passageways, lurid history and even mummies.

STUDENT BODIES

Teatro Juarez, completed in 1903, sits in the unofficial centre of the city, Jardin de la Union. The lavishly adorned structure, lined with brass capitals, lamp posts, towering marble columns and topped with eight Greek muses, suggests the great wealth the city once possessed—the richest in the country well into the 19th century thanks to its mining industry. At the steps of the theatre the estudiantinas roam, dressed in traditional Spanish garb. The handsome young singers approach passersby, offering a song in exchange for tips. Given the city’s storied past, it’s a relatively new tradition carried on by students from the nearby University of Guanajuato since the 1960s, as a way of making money for their tuition. In the daylight hours, the dapper men politely offer their services to men and women alike, minus the pressure tactics often associated with street performers. But at night, they are part of roving street parties called callejoneadas. Groups of estudiantinas croon songs of love and heartbreak, through the meandering alleys and plazas, followed by swooning admirers and tourists, clutching their porrons, tiny clay jugs of wine.

KISS OF DEATH

Steps away from a popular callejoneadas meeting place is arguably the city’s most famous scene, the Callejon del Beso, or the Alley of the Kiss on the slopes of the Cerro del Gallo hills. In a city filled with narrow passages and steep hills, the Alley of the Kiss is so tight, just only 168 centimetres across, the two balconies on either side nearly touch each other. Today, visitors giddily kiss on the third step for the promise of “seven years of happiness together,” unaware of the site’s ominous past. The story goes that young lovers Doña Carmen and Don Luis were forbidden to see each other by Carmen’s father. The resourceful Luis

gained access to the balcony across from Carmen’s home, so he could reach across to his love. When Carmen’s father caught the two embracing across the alleyway, he stabbed his daughter. She died still clutching Luis’s hand, while sharing one last kiss. The stuff of fairytales, right? But it’s part and parcel of Mexico’s often light-hearted relationship with death. Which brings us to the city’s most famous residents.

MUMMIES DEAREST

Every November, Mexican people welcome the returning souls of their deceased relatives during the famous Día de los Muertos celebrations. But Guanajuato celebrates its dead all year long at the unsettling El Museo de las Momias. Inside the museum, the remains of 59 naturally mummified bodies are on display for $85 pesos (about $6) and a few dollars more if you want to take pictures. How did these mummies come to be? Until 1958, the city imposed a tax on families if they wished to have their loved ones enjoy “perpetual burial.” And for those who couldn’t pay up, the bodies of their relatives were removed from graves in the late 1800s and up until the 1980s, to be stored in a building. But the area’s arid soil and air provided the ideal conditions for natural mummification. Word began to spread of Guanajuato’s mummies, drawing curious visitors. And the 1972 B-movie, The Mummies of Guanajuato, turned them into a bona fide phenomenon. Now on more official display, the pained expressions and paper-like skin of victims of murder, drowning and cholera and, even more disturbingly, a fetus removed from his mother’s womb, are preserved indefinitely. The museum displays are often accompanied by tongue-in-cheek explanations of their demises. Small children come face-to-face with mummies their own size. And kitschy key chains and T-shirts are sold at the exit. Given the gruesome setting, it’s easy to forget where you are, until you step back outside into the sunshine, amidst the colourful streets and passionate singers. And they say romance is dead. Guanajuato is about a five hour drive or bus ride north of Mexico City and about an hour and a half from San Miguel de Allende. Its international airport, about 45 minutes’ drive outside the city, has connections to Mexico City, Cancún, Puerto Vallarta and several U.S. cities.

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CARIBBEAN

The ultra-rich like to point their yachts toward St. Vincent and the Grenadines—who doesn’t love to have beaches and islands all to themselves? asks Vawn Himmelsbach

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SECRET

Photos these pages: unwinding with a cocktail on St. Vincent; Aerial Bequia Beach Hotel.

here’s a reason why Pirates of the Caribbean movies were filmed, in part, in St. Vincent and the Grenadines (SVG). This is one Caribbean nation where you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Though not, for better or worse, to the time of pirates. Often described as a throwback to the Caribbean before mass tourism, you won’t find sprawling all-inclusive resorts with more tourists than locals on this chain of 32 islands and cays. Instead, there are colonial-style inns, ultra-luxe private isles and palm-fringed bays dotted with yachts, overlayed with a culture that is distinctly Vincentian. Despite the popularity of neighbours like St. Lucia, Barbados and Grenada, SVG has somehow managed to stay under the radar, which is surprising, considering its natural assets. Even after a few days exploring the main island, I didn’t run into a single tourist (aside from a few diplomats at the charming Young Island Resort). That’s starting to change, with an increased focus on tourism, but one that’s careful and controlled. “We’re one of the last in the Caribbean to come in as a tourism destination, and that comes with its positives and its negatives,” said Glen Beache, CEO of SVG Tourism. While the competition got a head start, it also means SVG can avoid the over-tourism that has plagued other destinations. The tourists who do come here tend to head straight to the Grenadines, like Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, Mayreau and Union Island, though St. Vincent itself is worth a visit. Its twisty-turny roads (don’t forget your Gravol) will take you past fishing villages, with vistas of volcanic bluffs and black-sand beaches, to hidden waterfalls. For those seeking adventure, there’s excellent hiking on the Vermont Nature Trail or summiting La Soufriere Volcano. To really get that vintage Caribbean vibe, the island of Bequia (pronounced bek-way) is a one-hour ferry ride away or quick flight with SVG Air. The largest of the Grenadines at 18 square kilometres, Bequia’s beaches are lined with coconut palms rather than resorts, and the age-old traditions of boat-building and fishing are still practiced today. The best way to get around? By truck-taxi—a pick-up truck outfitted in the back with benches and a canopy. “There’s a beach everywhere, there’s a rum shack everywhere,” says Cherian Thomas, operations manager of Jack’s Beach Bar on Bequia’s Princess Margaret Beach (so named because the princess once swam here). Though the beaches are readily appealling, the rum shacks also have their charm. “You’re going to meet so many wonderful characters, some funny, some annoying, but it’s something you’ll remember,” she says. 76

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White frangipani flowers

Thomas also recommends a visit to The Porthole for its roti (including a lobster version) and Coco’s Place for the best curried conch on the island. At Jack’s, she says the fried chicken is the bomb. “If you’re not adventurous do not try the hot sauce,” she warns. “It’s not for the faint of heart.” She’s also right about that. We’re sitting on the terrace, snacking on lobster-stuffed wonton wraps and beerbattered okra, overlooking the powdery whitesand beach, considered the best of the island’s seven accessible beaches. I spot a total of four tourists, though there are at least a dozen yachts. Bequia is well-known among yachters and cocktail cruisers, though you don’t have to own a yacht to spend a week or two on the water. TradeWinds, a global yacht charter club with a base in Bequia, offers combined land-and-sea adventures, with private beachfront villas on the island of Mayreau. And Sail Grenadines is a local yacht charter company with bareboat, skippered and crewed options. There are no mass-market hotels or chain restaurants on the island. Most are independent, like Bequia Beach Hotel on Friendship Beach, reminiscent of the West Indies in the 1950s. Its contemporary take on colonial Caribbean architecture was influenced by designer Oliver Messel, who built some of the first villas on Mustique. The ultra-luxe, privately owned island has long been a haven for celebrities seeking privacy. Guests can rub shoulders with the rich and famous at the iconic Cotton House (the island’s only boutique hotel) or, if they’re lucky, at a villa formerly owned by the

likes of Princess Margaret or David Bowie. But up-and-coming Canouan is poised to become one of the most sought-after vacation destinations in the Caribbean. Donald Trump once owned villas and a casino here; now, all traces of Trump are gone (except for the casino, which is now used as a hurricane shelter). This is where the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group chose to open its first-ever Caribbean property, an oasis of luxury overlooking the blindingly white Godahl Beach dotted with hot-pink umbrellas. Formerly the Pink Sands Club (a US$126 million development that replaced Raffles), the newly opened Mandarin Oriental Canouan offers colonial-style suites and Italian-designed villas over a sprawling property. There’s also an 18-hole Jim Fazio-designed championship golf course (the only golf course in SVG), the brand-new Glossy Bay Marina for superyachts and an expanded runway for private jets. Canouan’s best asset, however, is its coral reef, one of the largest in the Caribbean. Since many of the nearby Grenadines are uninhabited and only reachable by water, you can swim, snorkel or sail in peace. For example, Mopion, a teeny isle about the size of a typical Toronto condo (which is to say, extremely small) has nothing but a single umbrella to distinguish it from being a sandbar in the middle of the sea. It still requires some effort to get here—easier, of course, if you happen to have a private jet. But that’s a good thing. Whether seeking an old-school West Indies vibe or all-out luxury, there’s one thing that sets SVG apart: You don’t need to be a celebrity to feel like you have an island paradise all to yourself.

ESSENTIAL SVG GETTING THERE

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s now easier to get to SVG, thanks to the new Argyle International Airport on St. Vincent, which opened in 2017. Previously, most Canadians flew here via Barbados; now, Air Canada Rouge offers direct service weekly from Toronto year-round, with twice-weekly flights during the peak winter season.

STAY Photos these pages clockwise from far left: White frangipani flowers; poolside at Bequia Beach Hotel; coconuts fresh from the tree; Canaouan Hotel; another perfect sunset; one of the country's long stretches of beach; SVG has a growing foodie reputation; a turtle roams free at Canaouan Hotel; swaying palm trees beachside.

For casual luxury, the eco-friendly Palm Island Resort is set on a private island spread out over 55 hectares with only 41 guestrooms and two villas (including newly renovated chic beachfront cottages). You often have a stretch of beach all to yourself. The spa is top-notch (with masseuses from Bali), the service is impeccable and the property even has its own turtle sanctuary.

SVG is all about sailing, snorkeling and diving. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the Tobago Cays Marine Park (near Palm Island and Canouan), a 57-hectare protected wildlife reserve spread out over an archipelago of five uninhabited cays. Top dive sites here include Mayreau Gardens and Horseshoe Reef; snorkelers can spot turtles in the waters of Baradal Turtle Sanctuary.

TRAVEL INTEL Our tips and tricks to navigating the world

Being clever at being indulgent

RENT RIGHT

Smart luxury is all about spending on the things you’ll notice, saving on the things you won’t. If, for example, your cruise ship charges for Wi-Fi (many do, and the fees can be outrageous), plan to use the free Internet connections you’ll find at coffee shops and libraries in the ports you visit, then use the cash you’ve saved to treat yourself to an indulgent massage. Make a stop at the tourism office in any town or city you visit to get tips on events happening in the area, as well as leads for getting tickets. If you walk out with coupons and discounts, use those savings on an over-the-top lunch at that expensive spot you thought was out of your price range. Many high-end restaurants serve much the same food at lunch and dinner, but charge significantly less for the mid-day meal. You’ll enjoy the same cuisine and the same lovely ambience but a much lower price tag.

Start your trip before you leave home

Although modern technology has made it easy to do many things from anywhere in the world, some tasks are better performed from the comfort of your home base than from a seat in the airport shuttle. Here, six things to do before you head out. 1. Is there anything worse than losing your credit card or having it compromised and cancelled while you’re travelling? In advance of your trip, apply for a second credit card to use in case of emergencies. Choose one that it doesn’t charge foreign transaction or ATM fees. 2. Buy a rolling backpack and a lightweight, compact duffel bag that folds up into a pouch. You can roll the backpack in hotel corridors and through airports, but if the going gets more rugged, slip on the straps and hoist it onto your back. If you shop more than you should, that fold-up duffel bag will gobble up some of your purchases and become your cabin baggage personal item on the way home. 3. Pack a microfibre face cloth in your day bag. They weigh nothing but come in handy every time you’re in a public washroom without working hand dryers or in European hotels, where face cloths simply don’t exist. 4. Make photocopies of your passport and important documents and keep them dry and safe in a Ziplock bag in your suitcase. Email a digital copy to yourself. If your documents are lost or stolen, those copies will make your life a whole lot easier. 5. Make sure you have troubleshooting numbers and information accessible in case you lose your phone. While much of your phone’s data may be backed up into the cloud, where you can access it on borrowed or public computer, make sure you know the logins and passwords, as well as the contact for your mobile service provider, should you need to lock down your data. Of course, don’t write down these logins and passwords on a piece of paper that could be lost or stolen. 6. Brush up on history. Keen travellers read up on the destination so they’ll know what’s hot and happening right now. But understanding a country’s past is key to appreciating the present.

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Renting a car at the airport can be an exercise in frustration, so we’ve come up with a few tips to save time, money and hassle. If you rent often, join a loyalty program and enjoy the perks of free upgrades, skipping the lineups and collecting points toward free rentals in the future. Your preferences will be recorded, so next time, you’ll be offered exactly what you like, no matter where you might be. The five-minute sign-up is time well spent. Even if you’re part of a loyalty program, check out the online deals offered by companies such as Hertz, Avis, Budget, National, Dollar, Enterprise, Sixt, Payless Car and Zipcar. The right discount code could shave 50 per cent off your rental. If booking online is your preference, be sure to use an aggregator site like CarRentals, Priceline, Hotwire or Kayak so you can compare prices—and get a broad sense of whether vehicles are in high or low demand during your travel period. Always read the fine print. A great deal might be less great if it comes with hidden fees (per-kilometre charges, for example) and taxes. At some companies, prepaying can save as much as 20 per cent off the price. Always refill the gas tank before returning your rental car to avoid exorbitant refuelling fees. And be sure to ask for the last possible return time to give yourself maximum flexibility and call the rental company if you think you’re going to be late. Sometimes, paying for an extra day’s rental is less expensive than the late fees.

Illustrations by Malcolm McKee

BY LIZ FLEMING

A great sleep is the greatest treat

That last slog of winter getting you down? What you need is a great sleep. Nita Lake Lodge, one of Whistler’s most elegant boutique properties, has a system guaranteed to lull and pamper the most frenzied among us. Start by getting a good shot of fresh, cold mountain air, on the world-class ski slopes, on the hiking trails or on a twilight zipline trek. Whatever you choose, come back early enough to enjoy a late afternoon “harmonizing 75-minute Kundalini massage,” a Nita Lake signature treatment that blends chakra and sound healing to restore balance and realign the body’s rhythms. Afterwards, take your newly balanced body outside to soak in a scenic rooftop hot tub. Later, head upstairs and light the gas fireplace in your lakeview suite. In the bathroom, you’ll find a bottle of artisanal lavender bath gel, designed specifically to induce feelings of relaxation. Add a generous squirt to the water, fill the soaker tub and sink in up to your chin. Simmer until muscles have turned to mush and brain completely relaxed, then wrap yourself in one of the softest hotel robes you’ll ever touch. Your only job now is to maneuver yourself under the soft, smooth sheets and comforter, where you’ll find a unique sleep aid awaiting: a small Zirbenherz sleep therapy pillow infused with pine oil to promote restorative and natural sleep. Still thinking you might need a little extra something to push you over the edge into oblivion? Check the bedside table, where you’ll find a small roller ball tube of lavender scented oil to rub on your wrists. nitalakelodge.com

BOLD QUERY I HATE MY HOTEL! WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO COMPLAIN ABOUT WHAT’S WRONG?

Don’t wait to come home before you make your complaints known. It’s far better to connect with the manager right away while you can point out exactly what’s wrong—and while they might be able to solve the problem. If the hotel was booked through a travel agent or tour operator, make them aware of the situation. Is your all-inclusive package not quite as advertised? Take a copy of your booking information with you when you meet with the manager to make things clear. Is your room not clean? Take photos of everything and make notes. No response from the hotel manager? Put social media to work and tell your story. Twitter is your best choice. Hotels don’t like negative posts so you’ll probably find things are sorted out quickly.

Cancel culture

The demise of British tour icon Thomas Cook certainly left a lot of travellers stranded in holiday hotspots: 50,000 in Greece, up to 30,000 in the Canary Islands, 21,000 in Turkey and another 15,000 in Cyprus. But the company also cancelled holiday plans for approximately one million others with advance bookings. Before you panic about your own travel plans, we thought you’d appreciate hearing some surprisingly good news about travel protection you probably already have and more that’s within easy reach. If you use a higher-end credit card to book a vacation package or a flight, you’re likely covered under their travel insurance and protections; you’ll receive compensation if your trip is disrupted. You normally have 60 days to file a complaint, but if the tour company or airline you booked with has gone out of business, dispute the charge immediately to ensure that you’ll be reimbursed. As long as you didn’t use cash or a debit card to pay the deposit for your trip, you should be completely covered and the credit card company will simply erase your purchase. That’s a load off your mind, but it doesn’t address the challenge of getting home again, should the travel company or airline fold while you’re on holiday. While some credit cards may cover you for return flights and other expenses, you might be better off purchasing your own travel insurance to be sure you’ll be reimbursed for hotels or additional flights if you’re stranded. While it does add to costs, travel insurance typically covers everything from missed connections to refunds if you can’t travel because you’re injured or sick, medical or dental emergencies, disaster evacuations, costs associated with accidental deaths, as well as expenses related to lost bags.

If your hotel is part of a big chain that offers a live chat function on their website, use it. Connecting with a breathing human being can make all the difference.

Photo by Bernardo Foresti

Worth Travelling For

IN THE JAWS OF GEOLOGY Piranhas, Alagoas, Brazil

Don’t let the town’s name—the Portuguese word for those nasty flesheating fish—scare you. Piranhas, one of the prettiest historic towns in the Xingó region of Northeast Brazil, is as relaxed and soft as a Meditterean fishing village, with nice restaurants, bars and views. It’s not a typical Brazilian beach paradise, though. Piranhas is perched on the banks Rio São Francisco, just a boat ride or hike away from the dramatic Xingó canyons. These ancient rock formations have existed for millions of years, once at the bottom of a prehistoric sea. The landscape changed again in 1994, this 80

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time as a result of human intervention, when a dam project raised the water levels in the watershed. The effect is oasis-like because there’s another way the region upends Brazilian stereotypes. Rather than a landscape of lush tropicality, Xingó is arid and strewn with cacti, more like Death Valley than Amazonian jungle. Just over a decade ago, this section of Rio São Francisco was declared a national monument, which protects the canyons as they are and has led to the expansion of eco-tourism activities. Oh, and they still fish piranhas in Piranhas port. They’re tasty. —THE EDITORS

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waiting to be found. A place where locals wave hello as you pass by on your way to explore a world beyond expectations.

Island in the Caribbean 3 Years in a Row! TRAVEL+LEISURE

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