Bold issue #41 fall (food and style)

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Food & Style

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ISSUE #41

CONTENTS FALL 2017

F E AT U R E S

34 MADE IN CHINA

In a city that is constantly remaking itself, Sarah Treleaven discovers the local designs and attitudes that keep Shanghai real

41 VIVE TEL AVIV For Anita Draycott, prickly pears and luxury hotel rooms are just the beginning of her discovering the depths of Israel’s capital

46 Beyond the resort beaches and the heat of Havana, Paul Gallant found the Caribbean nation’s smaller historic cities provide an intimate and stylish look into the heart of Cuban culture Grilled artichoke, glazed with pistachio dust, at Barcelona’s elBarri Adrià.

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Photo courtesy of elBarri Adrià

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ISSUE #41

CONTENTS FALL 2017

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EDITOR’S NOTE

12

CONTRIBUTORS

AG E N DA 19

DESIGN: The ultimate Yves Saint Laurent museum opens in Marrakech

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GLOBETROTTER: Hugo Boss Canada’s Lanita Layton shares her travel inspirations

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FOOD DIARIES: The life of chef Lynn Crawford in photos

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STAY: Introducing the next generation of super ships

THE GUIDE 30

7 GOURMET EXPERIENCES: Our editors pick the world’s most sumptuous meals prepared by the most creative chefs

T R AV E L N AV I GATO R

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INTEL: New ways hotels are trying to catch our attentio

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BOLD TRAVELLER: Our Insider’s Guide

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UPGRADES: BOLD and Exodus travel present the best of Slovenia

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to Washington, D.C.

WORTH TRAVELLING FOR:

Tierra Atacama Hotel and Spa, Chile

Photo courtesy of Uniworld

Club L’Esprit on Uniworld’s super ship S.S. Joie de Vivre.

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Terraced UNESCO vineyards of Lavaux

Lake Geneva & Matterhorn Region – treat your senses.

Discover the Lake Geneva & Matterhorn Region, which is brimming with scenic vineyards along the lakeshore and an abundance of Gault Millau and Michelin rated restaurants. www.lgmr.ch

Our partner

E D I TO R ’ S N OT E

A TASTE FOR STYLE

W

hen we talk about “style,” it’s tempting to gush about the latest fashion trends we see in Milan, Paris, New York, Tokyo or São Paulo, or in the window of our favourite boutiques (speaking of which, you can meet Hugo Boss Canada’s Lanita Layton on page 22). But in BOLD’s Food and Style issue, we broaden our definitions. We are equally directed by our stomachs.

In cities around the world these days, the food coming out of the restaurants of the best kitchens is as au courant as what people are wearing in the streets. A trip last year with the BOLD team to Cartagena, whose restaurant scene has grown to match its party vibe, provided an inspiration for examining how food, culture and style interact with one another.

As you’re reading this, Cuba is cleaning up from Hurricane Irma, which hit the north coast beaches much harder than the Central West region at the heart of our feature “Cuba Unlimited,” which you’ll find on page 46. The region’s Santa Clara airport is scheduled to reopen in October and reports of damage in the cities of Trinidad and Cienfuegos have been minimal. It’s been heartbreaking to see the damage caused by the natural disaster, but I am confident that Cuba will bounce back quickly. They are a resilient, creative people and during my visit I was astonished by how much panache local business operators (and, increasingly in post-Fidel Cuba, actual entrepreneurs) were able to provide with such limited resources. A bustling hair-and-nail salon in Cienfuegos was drenched in the most extraordinary pink, while a bar in Trinidad served its cocktails in the cutest earthen cups. Cuba is a country capable of coming back from Irma better than ever.

Elsewhere in this issue, we relish in the sumptuous décor on the high seas in a survey of the new breed of super ships (page 26), and discover the evolution of Israeli design and cuisine in Tel Aviv (page 40). Back in clearly defined couture terrain, we find on the high streets of Shanghai the exciting dialogue between global fashion houses and local designers (page 34).

When there’s much artistry and imagination on the high streets and on our plates, it can be hard to make decisions. Don’t worry. A steady eye, sense of delight and some self-confidence can connect us to cultures and flavours that tap into both our heart and our sense of adventure.

Paul Gallant Executive Editor

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ISSUE #41

CONTRIBUTORS FALL 2017

ON THE COVER

Pumpkin-stuffed agnolotti pasta, served in a bitter ginger broth, from L’Imbuto restaurant in Lucca, Italy.

Marlon J. Moreno CEO + Editorial Director Paul Gallant Executive Editor Magda de la Torre Americas Editor Marlon Moreno Garnica Public Relations Coordinator Mónica Garcia Senior Advisor

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JARED MITCHELL Writer

ILONA KAUREMSZKY Writer

DOUG O’NEILL Writer

A former internationalbusiness journalist and web-fiction creator, Jared Mitchell is the author of five novels. When not travelling throughout Europe he splits his time between Toronto and a houseboat on Amsterdam’s Schinkel River.

Award-winning travel journalist Ilona Kauremszky seeks out adventure. She is the founding president of the Travel Media Association of Canada’s Ontario Chapter, and has worked with legacy newspaper publishers and guidebook companies across the United States. Ilona is currently a regular columnist for trade and luxury travel publications as well as an active reporter/producer at mycompasstv. Twitter/ YouTube: @mycompasstv; mycompass.ca

“Pull your nose out of your smartphone and look up,” says Torontobased travel writer Doug O’Neill. “If only I’d followed my own advice on that trip to New York, I wouldn’t have let the elevator door slam shut on Kevin Spacey’s face, nor snubbed Jay Leno on a patio in Bermuda.”

Accounts of O’Neill’s rambles appear in a variety of Canadian and American media outlets.

SOUK COUTURE

SUPER NOVAS

INSIDER’S GUIDE TO WASHINGTON, D.C.

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Andrew Brudz • Anita Draycott Ilona Kauremszky • Jared Mitchell Doug O’Neill • Allegria Guggenheim Michael Smith • Sarah Treleaven ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN Laura García PHOTOGRAPHY Carlos Bolivar • Tishan Baldeo WEB DEVELOPER Rahul Nair PUBLIC RELATIONS AGENCY Jesson + Company jessonco.com info@jessonco.com 77 Bloor St. West, Suite 1200 Toronto, ON. M5S 1M2 ADVERTISING For Advertising, Promotion, Reprints and Sponsorships inquiries: marketing@boldmagazine.ca CORRESPONDENCE The Hudson Bay Centre 20 Bloor St. East P.O. Box 75075 Toronto, ON. M4W 3T3 BOLD® is published bimonthly by Pulso Media Group Inc. Opinions expressed in BOLD are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers. BOLD does not assume liability for content.

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BOLD EXPERIENCES In partnership with

T

The globetrotting editors at BOLD have teamed up with the travel experts at Trafalgar for a closer look at some of the world’s best destinations. From mystical lands to storied capitals, these are the hotspots we’re heading to now.

THE DESTINATION EVERYONE IS TALKING ABOUT:

NORWAY

A land of epic proportions, of fjords, of Vikings, of Norse mythology and northern lights.

Not so mythic are the people, who generously share their culture, their art and their architecture with all who visit their Scandinavian home. Norway is often ranked as the happiest country on earth.

And it’s no wonder. Fresh breezes that kiss the snow-topped peaks as they flow by fill the lungs with a healthy blast, ancient forests keep one close to nature, while waterfalls, gorges and fjords bring out your inner explorer.

These are just a few of the natural wonders you will experience with the Best of Norway itinerary.

As incentive,

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SAVE 10% + an additional $75 off per person on the land-portion of selected Trafalgar trips when paid in full by January 11, 2018, by quoting promo code: PPTBOLDTRIPS

Taste

THAILAND

Pad Thai. Satay. Red, yellow, green curry. We want to enjoy every bite, to indulge in the intricate flavours of the renowned Thai cuisine – which is only matched by the country’s hospitality. Here, in this ancient land of smiles, temples and tuk-tuks, you will discover dining is a communal sharing of love and family.

Enjoy

RUSSIA

A land of tsars and imperial palaces, revolution and revelation, of deep traditions and a deeper connection to arts and culture.

From The Hermitage, with its masterpieces, in Saint Petersburg, to the candy-coloured wonder that is St. Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow, Russia allows you to immerse yourself in dance, theatre, art and architecture in ways unrivalled by anywhere else.

Unwind

HAWAII

From Oahu to Maui to Kauai, the islands of Hawaii inspire relaxation. Be immersed in a culture unlike any other.

Experience ancient traditions like the hula, snorkel the crystal clear waters or just sit back. Be the big kahuna on the Big Island, or discover the still beating heart of Hawaii, its volcanoes.

Meet

CHINA

What could be better than taking tea with like-minded travellers in China, where the art of making it, sipping it and sharing it has been cultivated for centuries?

The tradition matches the depth of history and beauty: go back in time with local experts who enlighten you on everything from the empire of Beijing and the Forbidden City to the modern skyscraper metropolis that is Shanghai.

LOVE THE MEMORIES FROM THE MAGIC OF TRAVEL Discover the sights, sounds and sensations of some of the world’s most iconic locations. Only Trafalgar brings your destinations to life while making it effortless! Come aboard to see the world from the inside.

© 2017 PULSO MEDIA GROUP INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

NEW FLAVOURS AND SAVOUR THE LOCAL ZEST FOR LIFE.

THE MOSAIC OF CULTURES, TALES AND FRESH HORIZONS.

AND ENJOY CAREFREE TRAVEL, CONFIDENT IT’S ALL TAKEN CARE OF.

NEW PEOPLE, MAKE LIFELONG FRIENDS AND SHARE STORIES.

Please call us at 1 800-352-4444 or visit our website at Trafalgar.com #SimplyTrafalgar * Terms: Save 10% + an additional $75 off per person on the land-portion of selected Trafalgar trips when paid in full by January 11, 2018. Discounts may be combinable with other brochure discounts where applicable. Valid only on new bookings. Other conditions may apply. Subject to availability and may be withdrawn at any time. Not valid on Costsaver, custom groups or any other offers. For discount availability and other conditions please visit www.trafalgar.com TICO # R50015870.33 Kern Rd., Toronto ON M3B 1S9

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A TALE OF

TWO CITIES DUBLIN. LONDON.

Two cities that share a pride of place. Both are capitals of culture and of standing traditions, yet always have a face turned toward the new.

In Dublin, you’ll walk in the footsteps of the revolutionary Michael Collins, the writer Samuel Beckett and the bon vivant Oscar Wilde. But before these great men, there was a woman. Queen Elizabeth I favoured Dublin, enough so to issue a royal charter in 1592 to build Trinity College, one of the city’s most majestic and epic institutions. A place of knowledge, understanding and of devotion to education, it was, and still is, also an ode to the written word.

The Republic of Ireland is a nation of storytellers. Authors, poets, musicians and minstrels have passed on the laments and joys of life on the Emerald Isle for centuries. Her majesty brought a gravitas to the artform, and created on the grounds of the university, a place inspired by England’s Cambridge and Oxford, a place where the likes of Beckett and Wilde honed their craft. The college’s library took precedence from the earliest days, and scholars saw to it that it become one of the most revered collections of books in the world.

The Old Library building, dating to the 18th century, houses a particular treasure, one which you will discover with the help of a Trafalgar insider, a Local Expert in the history of this magical place. It is the Book of Kells, a splendidly decorated copy of the four Gospels of the life of Jesus Christ, and a must-see on every art, art history and religious history lover’s bucket list. Housed in a dimly lit room, the manuscripts from the book glow an otherworldly radiance; the texts are illuminated, and the ambient lighting that surrounds the glass enclosures only serves to enhance the pages, which are seemingly touched by a divine light. It is, undoubtedly, Ireland’s greatest treasure and truly the world’s most renowned medieval manuscript

Above it, on the second floor, the Long Room will continue to take your breath away, with first-edition books and ancient manuscripts lined cheek by jowl, top to bottom. Here, the sight of 200,000 of the library’s oldest books unfurls over 65 metres before you. Spines spiked with raised gold letters and embossed rich leather, worn from nearly 350 years of being handled and read, row upon row. Now, this is a library.

But Dublin is more than a reader’s dream. It’s a revolutionary thinker’s hotspot, too. Through its turbulent history, Ireland has fought for its independence. While here, learn about Daniel O’Connell, aka The Liberator, who was a political leader in the early 19th century. It was his life’s work to gain the right of Catholics to sit as members of Parliament in Westminster in London. And, like Elizabeth I, O’Connell wanted to leave a lasting legacy. He created the Dublin Cemeteries Committee in 1828, a trust from which Glasnevin was born. Explore the final resting place of some of Ireland’s most influential citizens, including 20th century revolutionary leaders Michael Collins and Éamon de Valera, with a museum guide. Your guide will have a ghost story or two to tell while walking the grounds where 1.5-million people have been laid to rest over the nearly 200 years since the cemetery came to be.

Sculpture, symbolism, architecture, art, religion and revolution all converge in this hauntingly beautiful place, a garden of stone Celtic crosses and green spaces, and your visit helps to preserve it for future generations. O’Connell himself is buried in a crypt under a commanding watchtower. It’s said that if you touch his coffin, it may just bring you a bit of the luck of the Irish.

As luck would have it, due west of Dublin, on the Wild Atlantic Way, you can stay at Ashford Castle, a former home of Guinness family that has been standing since the 1200s and, more recently, lovingly restored to its former glory. And no Irish experience with Trafalgar is complete without a signature Be My Guest experience, where you are welcomed into a private home to share a meal or take tea. A local experience like no other.

PARTNER CONTENT

© 2017 PULSO MEDIA GROUP INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

London town. One of the world’s great cities, one of Europe’s most vibrant capitals. The Tower Bridge, Big Ben’s bell tower at Westminster, Buckingham Palace.

Icons all. And there’s so much more. Take a tour through the bustling streets of the city, winding your way from The Mall to Trafalgar Square to the Strand and beyond.

Take afternoon tea in one of England’s best hotels, a most civilized affair – and utterly delicious. Traditions abound, sandwiches with the crusts cut off, perfectly clotted Devon cream, and scones and cakes fresh from the oven. Head out to a historic neighbourhood pub, and have a pint or two with the locals. Don’t be surprised if you make a few friends while enjoying what’s on tap. The theatre scene is lively, and the chefs are some of the best in the world, innovating and taking advantage of Britain’s lush growing season. Gardens and green spaces for repose can be found around every corner; Londoners are park lovers.

Visit Kensington Palace, the former home of Princess Diana, and now the home to her sons, Prince Harry and Prince William, along with his wife, the Duchess of Cambridge, and their children. Enjoy a walk through Hyde Park, and into the storied neighbourhoods of Mayfair and Marylebone, once villages, and former homes to the likes of John Lennon, Jimi Hendrix and George Frideric Handel, among many others still living there today (fancy a stroll past Madonna’s townhouse, anyone?). On to the famed Piccadilly Circus and the West End theatre district, take an insider’s guided jaunt into the secrets of the streets of London. Soho, Carnaby, Regent, and into Covent Garden, Seven Dials and Neal’s Yard, all brimming with shops and restaurants, as well as artisans housed in architectural treasures that could tell a story or two of what was.

Of course, no visit to London is complete without taking a deeper dive into the city.

Your Trafalgar Travel Director will share insider secrets of Westminster Abbey, and connect you with local guides and experts who will regale you with tales of London’s rich history. At the Tower of London, overlooking the River Thames, take a guided tour of this once menacing place where Anne Boleyn spent her last days, and marvel at the glitter and glamour of the Crown Jewels, on display in one of the towers. Another iconic home, that of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, is Buckingham Palace. Take in the changing of the guard, a traditional spectacle that has its origins as far back as the late 1600s.

But London is not stuck in its past. Here you’ll find some of the world’s best hotels and top rooftop bars for a bird’s eye view, as well as museums that contain great masterpieces and quirky finds – and where entry is free! It is a thoroughly modern, forward-thinking city with a global citizenry that revels in its diversity. Pip, pip, cheerio!

From the iconic to the unexpected with Trafalgar’s 10-day Best of Britain and Ireland exploring such city gems as Edinburgh, Glasgow, Belfast, Dublin and Cardiff.

BOOK YOUR DREAM 2018 HOLIDAY NOW SAVE 10% with early payment discount.

BOLD readers save an additional $75 off per person by quoting promo code at time of booking* PPTBOLDTRIPS VISIT

trafalgar.com

* Terms: Save 10% + an additional $75 off per person on the land-portion of selected Trafalgar trips when paid in full by January 11, 2018. Discounts may be combinable with other brochure discounts where applicable. Valid only on new bookings. Other conditions may apply. Subject to availability and may be withdrawn at any time. Not valid on Costsaver, custom groups or any other offers. For discount availability and other conditions please visit www.trafalgar.com TICO # R50015870.33 Kern Rd., Toronto ON M3B 1S9

LUXURY DESTINATION WEDDINGS & HONEYMOONS

WINTER ISSUE 2018 18 boldmagazine.ca

AGENDA W H E R E O U R WA N D E R LU S T I S TA K I N G U S N E X T

Photo courtesy Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent/Alexandre Guirkinger

S O U K CO U T U R E The new Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech showcases the work of a fashion visionary against the backdrop of one of the world’s most magical cities. BY JARED MITCHELL

boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA

[ DESIGN ]

T

he arid air, the golden lateafternoon sun and the explosion of colour, sound and fragrances of its markets – Marrakech has bewitched Europeans for centuries. And few have been more entranced than the late French designer Yves Saint Laurent, who arrived in the Moroccan city in 1966 with his partner Pierre Bergé. A memorable photo depicts the great couturier lounging in a Berber-blue kaftan on piles of Moroccan rugs, savouring the explosion of flowers around him. So closely did Saint Laurent become associated with Marrakech that Bergé, who passed away this summer at age 86, chose it as the venue for the new Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech, which opens this autumn.

fascinated not just with the city and its immensely genial residents, but the glamorous footprints left by Saint Laurent, who died in 2008, and Bergé. The lesser-known Bergé was truly one of the most hyper-industrious personalities of the 20 th century. He was the past president of the Opéra Bastille, directed the literary legacy of Jean Cocteau and was the business genius behind the YSL brand. The museum will feature portions of Saint Laurent’s fashion creations, lovingly preserved by Bergé. The rotating collection is banked on 5,000 clothing items and 15,000 accessories, as well as sketches, photos and other objects; the newly renovated Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris will reopen roughly at the same time.

From a base inside the Four Seasons Marrakech Resort, opposite La Ménara, the world’s oldest continuously maintained botanical gardens, I found the city imminently approachable. A ramble toward the Medina, the central warren of alleys filled with thousands of shops, brings you past a large shady park with its troupe of resident cats (6pm feeding time is an entertaining circus) and the trademark square minaret of the nearby Kotoubia Mosque. The smoky, noisy, thronging centre of the city is the Djemaa el-Fna, a sprawling public square of food stalls, Senegalese hawkers and aromatic spice shops. The square (actually a vast triangle) was featured in the opening sequence of Alfred Hitchcock’s The Man Who Knew Too Much and looks much the same today as when Hitchcock filmed it in 1956.

The YSL museum is located north of all this glorious chaos, adjacent to the Jardin Majorelle, which I found especially sumptuous and almost narcotically beautiful.

Created in 1922 by French painter Jacques Majorelle, it fell into neglect in the 1960s and was only rescued from redevelopment into condos by Bergé and Saint Laurent, who lived there for a time and poured money into its revival. It is here among the Berberblue walls, lofty palms and the louche arms of desert succulents that Saint Laurent’s ashes are scattered; you can see a truncated column at the rear of the garden that serves as a simple memorial to the designer.

Also within the garden’s precincts is a small Berber museum of clothing and jewellery. The Berbers are a Moroccan minority distinct from ethnic Arabs, with their own alphabet, culture and way of dress. In recent years there’s been greater acceptance in Morocco of Berber culture and today you see signs in Marrakech written in the unique Berber alphabet.

Although the new museum (fittingly located on Rue Yves Saint Laurent) will focus more on his couture than his time in Marrakech, this noisy, lovable city at the foot of the Atlas Mountains left an indelible imprint on his work.

It represents nothing less than the eternal marriage of a great artist with a great city.

“HERE AMONG THE BERBER-BLUE WALLS, LOFTY PALMS AND THE LOUCHE ARMS OF DESERT SUCCULENTS, YSL’S ASHES ARE SCATTERED” The impressive new building has been designed to blend in with Marrakech’s signature red straw-and-mud buildings, a consistent look that gave rise to the nickname the “Red City.” Born in neighbouring Algeria, Saint Laurent’s mid1960s arrival in Marrakech coincided with those of other glittering celebrities like Andy Warhol and the designer Loulou de la Falaise. Although the drug-and-sex-fuelled days and nights they savoured have given way to stricter morals in modern Marrakech, the material side of the city, its souks, cafés and public squares throbbing with life, continue to draw global travellers.

As a first-time visitor to Marrakech I was

20 boldmagazine.ca

Yves Saint Laurent photo © Reginald Gray; La Mamounia photos courtesy of La Mamounia Hotel; cape photo courtesy Foundation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent

OPENING PHOTO: From his 1967 summer collection, Yves Saint Laurent drew inspiration from Africa’s Bambara people to design this eye-catching evening ensemble. THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A young Yves Saint Laurent during one of his frequent visits to Marrakech; inside La Mamounia Hotel; Mamounia’s Suite Majorelle; an Yves Saint Laurent haute couture cape in silk faille, embroidered with bougainvillea, from his Spring/Summer 1989 collection.

WHEN YOU GO STAY Marrakech has scores of intimate riad-style hotels in the Moroccan style, or choose the absolute glamour of a country house on the city’s outskirts such as Dar Zemora, justly celebrated for the integrity of its traditional Moroccan design. There’s also the doyenne of traditional North African grand hotels, the palatial Mamounia near the city centre.

Rooms from CAD$540. mamounia.com EAT Deep in the centre of Marrakech’s labyrinthine medina, La Foundouk at 55 Souk Hai Fes offers a luxurious FrancoMoroccan menu such as a Berber vegetarian tagine or roasted duck breast. Dine among native bric-a-brac on the terrace or in more rational décor style inside. www.foundouk. com SHOP Saint Laurent was famously jittery before his shows, crying out, “I need to see beautiful things!” The sheer volume of shops in Marrakech would quell the nerves of an army of couturiers. There are thousands of spice shops, leather-goods stores, ceramics stalls and tiny galleries, which welcome you with original prints, some sophisticated, others endearingly naïve. boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA

[ GLOBETROTTER ]

A RO U N D T H E WO R L D W I T H

Lanita Layton O F H U G O B O S S C A N A DA

As Canadians grow increasingly astute in their fashion choices, famed German brand Hugo Boss has itself had to become more savvy in bringing its sharp, classic looks to consumers. For the last six years, Canadian managing director Lanita Layton has been at the helm, overseeing expansions across the country, including new store-in-store locations at Harry Rosen, Holt Renfrew and Hudson’s Bay. Formerly a VP at Holt Renfrew and currently a member of the board of governors at OCAD University, Layton is known both for her creativity and professional polish.

Where have you just come back from?

Rioja and Barcelona, Spain. My second time in Rioja. We fell in love with the laid-back lifestyle, and obviously the wine and food.

The “tapas streets” in Logroño are above and beyond!

Where in the world have you felt happiest?

I have spent a great deal of time in Italy over the years, and there’s a quality of life that I adore there, particularly in Tuscany.

Slow and delicious dinners, great conversations, easy walks through the hills.

Name a place that most lived up to the hype.

Bali! Stunningly beautiful, creative and spiritual, with some of the most charming and happy people you could meet.

Which is your favourite hotel?

In Canada, [Vancouver’s] Rosewood Hotel Georgia goes above and beyond expectations and I love the ambience, the aesthetics and the service. In Florence, I have stayed at the Hotel Lungarno for many years and it’s still like home when I go back there.

What’s your guilty pleasure while travelling?

Watching back-to-back movies on a trip home with my phone unplugged and a glass of wine.

Which is your road most travelled?

These days, as I’m responsible for leading the Canadian operations for Hugo Boss, I spend a large part of my time travelling across Canada. In addition, I’m off to New York and Germany on a regular basis to work with our teams there.

“A shower

cap does come in handy sometimes”

The restaurant or dish that’s most delighted me is…

Right now I’d say one of the most memorable dishes I’ve had was in Vancouver at The Mackenzie Room, called “Chicken of the Sea.” Sounds simple, but in fact it’s a smooth and delectable sea urchin paté, tasting like foie gras, on a squid-ink brioche bun with hazelnut and pear.

Confession time: name one thing you’ve taken from a hotel.

Embarrassing, but a shower cap does come in handy sometimes, and the Rosewood hotels have the best.

What’s the one thing you pack for every trip?

Gym gear. I don’t necessarily use it, but I do bring it!

What’s the one essential thing for making travel more comfortable?

Plan to get there in plenty of time, and utilize the opportunities to make travel easier such as a Nexus/Global Entry cards, airline status cards, etc. Then relax.

What is your favourite travel companion?

Who? My husband. What? My iPhone.

Who is the most interesting person you’ve met on your travels?

One day I would like to write a book of short stories on “interesting cab drivers I have met.” From ex nuclear physicists to recent refugees to chefs, all with colourful and often poignant stories.

What inspires you to keep exploring this planet?

My thought is, if you have the capability, how would you not want to? I learn something new every trip, meet interesting new people, experience different cultures. I think it’s integral to my growth as an individual, and to my creativity. Knowledge is key!

What would be your trip of a lifetime?

I have a pretty large bucket list, but I would say Asia: Vietnam, Cambodia, Korea and Japan, if I could get time to get them all in one amazing trip.

Which travel experience most changed your worldview and why?

Again, I would have to say Bali. Many of the people live a very frugal lifestyle, but are very happy and almost serene overall, very spiritual. In my view, it puts a different framework around what our real needs are, what we really need in western society to make us happy.

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AGENDA

[ FOOD DIARIES ]

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Star Power

Even as she reigns over a national culinary empire, chef LYNN CRAWFORD still makes family travel a top priority

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hef Lynn Crawford has her fingers – and sometimes her spoons and knives – in an astonishing array of Canadian food institutions.

She first made her name as executive chef of the Four Seasons hotels in Toronto and New York City. Now star, judge, contestant and regular guest on some of the country’s biggest food-oriented TV shows, including Chopped Canada, The Marilyn Dennis Show and her own Pitchin’ In, Crawford also oversees The Hearth restaurant at Toronto Pearson airport, is the face on the Waterview Market line of shrimp products and, with partner Lora Kirk, runs Toronto’s Ruby Watchco restaurant. The birth of the couple’s daughter, Addie Pepper, late last year has barely broken Crawford’s stride. Her newest book, Farm to Chef: Cooking Through the Seasons, published this September by Penguin Canada, aims to spark a reader’s creativity by embracing ingredients that are locally available at different times of the year. “It was a pretty spontaneous choice of what I love to cook, a real snapshot of what people can do that’s delicious, things they may not have thought of themselves,” she says. BOLD asked Crawford to share the stories behind some favourite photos on her social media streams. – PAUL GALLANT

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1. Marilyn Dennis [of The Marilyn Dennis Show] took Tommy Smythe [of Great Canadian Homes ] and I out to see the Okanagan for a little getaway. We all share summer birthdays together, so it’s a bit of a tradition for us. This is O’Keefe Historic Ranch near Vernon.

Cornelius O’Keefe was the first pioneer in the Okanagan, so the place was founded 150 years ago. It was really nice to go back in time to see what it would have been like to be there among the ranchers and cowboys.

2. That’s my life right there, Lora and little Addie Pepper. We had climbed up to the summit of Haleakalā volcano on Maui to see the sunset. On the way up, there were so many twists and turns. You’re right on the edge of the volcano as you’re going up through the clouds; it’s like we were all flying. And then you’re

above the clouds for the best sunset ever.

3. Lora, who is also a chef, had worked at The Connaught in London and has some wonderful friends there. We wanted to take Addie to go see some of the places her mom had worked at and visited. She went out to every restaurant, museum and gallery with us. In this photo, we were in a cab and our cabbie was so incredible. He gave us a full-on tour, including Big Ben and Buckingham Palace. The London cabs are great because you can literally roll a stroller right inside.

4. We’ve had eight fantastic years at Ruby Watchco, which has the most passionate team I’ve ever worked with. That’s Anna, a student from George Brown College, who did the pantry and

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international flavours. There’s a Canadian version, with bacon butter, cheddar and scallions on top. There’s Mexican, with a chipotle butter, cilantro, adobe. Tropical, a little bit of heat with cayenne, ginger, butter and mango. And there’s the classic with garlic-herb butter and farm-fresh tomatoes, finished off with a snowstorm of parmesan cheese.

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7. That cherry cheesecake is

some desserts for us as part of her studies, who we all loved very much.

On the table are chocolate espresso brownies, with chocolate sauce and caramel corn.

a Crawford classic. Now that you’ve brought it up, I just might have to make it now.

When cherry season arrives, I use them all the time, all the different varieties. From Okanagan, from Niagara. Just cherries and a little bit of honey is perfect.

5. Tommy and I were

8. Our cottage in the Kawarthas

shooting for The Marilyn Dennis Show in Pittsburgh, training with the Pittsburgh Steelers. After a hard day of practicing, we went back to the hotel for a glass of wine in the lobby before saying goodnight. On the way up, there was a gentleman in the elevator with a big rolling case. I said, “That’s a big piece of luggage! What’s in there?” He said, “Actually it’s the Stanley Cup.” He showed the cup to Tommy [who is the greatgrandson of hockey legend Conn Smythe], who was absolutely over the moon.

is our little piece of heaven. I like paddle boarding, kayaking.

We’ll have friends and family in the summer, which is what it’s all about. I just bought the 1932 log cabin next to ours, which will eventually be Addie’s cabin.

For more information, visit cheflynncrawford.com; for more pictures and visual stories, explore www.instagram.com/ chef_lynn, instagram.com/ rubywatchco and twitter.com/ chef_lynn.

6. Corn on the cob is so 8

happy and satisfying and delicious. This recipe from the book features different boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA

[ STAY ]

THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Uniworld’s JDV restaurant; aerial view of Windstar’s Wind Surf ship; the classic room on the Uniworld S.S. Joie de Vivre; the Scenic Eclipse mega yacht.

SUPER NOVAS

While traditional cruise ships are often defined by their size, a new class of vessels are raising the bar By ILONA KAUREMSZKY

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onsidering the icebergs and sharp Antarctic winds, few ships dare to voyage into the harsh conditions at the bottom of the earth. But inside the plush cabins of a new super yacht, Antarctica-bound guests can view polar conditions with binoculars – and in private submarines and helicopters.

Today a fleet of luxury boutique cruise companies foster dreamcome-true itineraries for extraordinary voyages on board state-ofthe-art vessels that are relatively small compared to the mega cruise ships the size of mini-cities.

Often described as “super ships,” what makes this new wave of vessels special is not their size, but the luxury of their spacious suites and exclusive onboard amenities, ranging from spas and fitness centres to menus offering vintage wine. With their high-end frills, these super ships create a distinctly top-shelf experience.

“While we’ve long seen imaginative designs applied to cruising’s larger vessels, what’s exciting right now is how intriguing ship offerings are becoming on small ship lines,” says Carolyn Spencer Brown, editor-in-chief of CruiseCritic.com, the world’s largest cruise reviews and information site.

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Wealthy billionaires like Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen, owner of the private yacht Octopus, have set the pace. Allen’s mega yacht is equipped with two helicopters and two submarines. Cruise companies have taken note, commissioning a crop of design-rich, high-tech vessels that can give paying passengers experiences to rival those of a Microsoft tycoon’s. Here’s a BOLD snapshot of a whole new world of cruising.

SCENIC ECLIPSE Luxury is in the detail, and Scenic Eclipse, the new all-inclusive private yacht that takes paying passengers, has it in spades.

Set to sail summer 2018, the Scenic Eclipse will offer journeys to every continent on earth. “It will combine luxury, discovery and safety, and gives guests the opportunity to explore above and beyond what was previously imaginable,” says Lisa McCaskill, vicepresident, sales and marketing with Scenic Tours Canada.

Among the perks of the new 228-passenger mega yacht are two seven-passenger helicopters for flying to remote areas, and a seven-person submarine for up-close marine encounters.

WINDSTAR WIND SURF Considered the largest cruise ship with sails in the world, this 310-passenger super ship is still relatively small in the cruising world. But gourmet lovers have taken note as the James Beard Foundation (JBF) recently named Windstar as the elite culinary establishment’s official cruise line with world-renowned JBF chefs on select cruises.

The experience of being on her deck as she embarks from scenic harbours, with sails unfurling 200 feet above across five masts, is like no other in the world. “She glides into any port, and while she’s the largest sailing cruise ship, she’s still far smaller than most cruise ships, meaning she can access smaller, hidden harbours and off-thebeaten-path places,” says John Delaney, president of Windstar Cruises.

That deck also offers stunning seaside settings much closer to shore than offered by larger ships. A water-sports deck platform for kayaking allows guests to easily take refreshing dips into the sea.

UNIWORLD S.S. JOIE DE VIVRE Prepare to say “Ooh la la” once you see the latest in the Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection plying the rivers in France. The luxe floating pied-à-terre made a big splash onto the European river circuit on its maiden voyage in March.

This posh vessel has à la française features inspired from the Roaring Twenties. For the interiors, filled with handcrafted furniture and antiques, upholstery and window-treatment fabrics have been created by world renowned design house Pierre Frey. Another wow factor is Club L’Esprit, an innovative three-in-one venue which transforms from a pool area to a cinema to a dining venue before your eyes.

Michelle Palma, vice-president of sales for Uniworld in Canada, boasts that the term super ship caught on with the launch of the company’s S.S. Antoinette back in 2011. “We use the term super ship because these new luxury ships stand apart from any others in the industry with their distinct interiors, unique, one-of-a-kind décor and exclusive amenities,” she says.

Each super ship is different and unique from the others. “Take, for example, the new Cave du Vin on the S.S. Joie de Vivre, which offers an interactive dining experience like no other on the rivers of Europe.”

Whether it’s the high-tech equipment, the food or the cosy lounges that set a super ship apart from its rivals, it’s high style in the high seas like no other. boldmagazine.ca

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THE GUIDE

GLOBAL Gourmet Take a culinary journey with seven foodie experiences that elevate taste and creativity

RBC AVION PRESENTS: 7 GOURMET EXPERIENCES TO TASTE NOW ®

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CANADA Kissa Tanto, Vancouver There’s a new definition of Asian fusion. French influences seem passé.

Now it’s all about Japan meets Italy. Yes, Japanese-Italian. At Kissa Tanto, pasta mingles with shiso broth. Eggplant is Japanese, yet roasted Italian-style. Magret duck breast gets a hit of miso, while sake sidles up to glasses of big Tuscan reds. Yet, is it really that surprising? It’s the diversity of Canada in one spot and, even better, a relaxed, all-inclusive vibe that puts everyone at ease. Tokyo jazz cafés of the 1960s, known as “jazu-kissa,” inform both the ambience and the name, kissa. Tanto loosely translates to “so much” or “plenty.” Nevermind – after one bite, you’ll want to kissa the cook, plenty. kissatanto.com

USA Trois Mec, Los Angeles

Photo by Susana Capra/Capra Photography

Californians are notoriously demanding restaurant patrons, but at chef Ludo Lefebvre’s collaboration with John Shook and Vinny Dotolo, guests must submit to buying tickets online ahead of time for the spectacular no-substitutions five-course tasting menu.

Though Lefebvre’s foundation is French cooking (he was born in Auxerre, Burgundy), don’t be surprised if curry, ceviche or other global flavours make an appearance in one form or another.

The small dining room (an old pizza parlour, sign still intact, just off Melrose Avenue) makes for an exclusive speakeasy-like experience. troismec.com

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CHILE Boragó, Santiago With a culinary scene that’s often overshadowed by that of its neighbour to the north, Chile has a deep need for champions of the kitchen. Enter Rodolfo Guzmán, who trained as a chemical engineer before working in restaurants in Chile and Spain. From the time Guzmán opened Boragó in 2007, the chef has scoured his native land for traditional ingredients (algae, beach asparagus, a fungi that grows on tree limbs, berries he finds on the forest floor) and embraced ancient cooking methods used by the Mapuche indigenous people – all, of course, with a modern twist. The ever-changing tasting menu, as many as 20 courses, can be paired with wine or juice. borago.cl

SPAIN elBarri Adrià, Madrid Unquestionably, Spain is an incubator for culinary trends. This is, after all, the turf of the groundbreaking chef/godfather of molecular gastronomy Ferran Adrià, who created El Bulli. In Madrid, Adrià disciples such as the Michelin-starred chef Sergi Arola, and his take on tapas at Vi Cool, carries the torch. But for a truly next-level experience, look no further than Adrià’s brother, Albert. elBarri is a concept of multiple dining venues dotted around the city, from Tickets, a Barcelona-inspired tapas resto that’s ranked 25 in the Top 50 Restaurants, to Enigma, a reservations-only, experiential spot where you don’t know what you’ll be eating until they’ve confirmed your table. elbarriadria.com

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Photos by Lido Vannucchi

ITALY L’imbuto, Lucca You know Michelin-starred chef Cristiano Tomei has a big, playful personality without ever meeting him or seeing him on TV cooking shows. It’s all there in the flavours. While there’s certainly a Tuscan heart to his tasting menu (guests get only a choice of number of dishes), the key element is surprise: salty when you expect sweet and vice versa. Today it’s herring with dandelion, tomorrow, overstuffed ravioli sitting like eggs atop a bird’s nest. The dining room is located inside the Lucca Center of Contemporary Art, whose creative displays can also make your heart race. l’imbuto.it

HONG KONG

8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, Hong Kong

ISRAEL Goats with the Wind, Yodfat Though Tel Aviv is awash in great restaurants, the drive to the countryside north of the Atsmon Mountain Reserve is part of the delight of visiting solar-powered eco-farm Goats with the Wind. Organic goat cheese is the star attraction of their prix fixe menu, which is driven by seasonal local ingredients straight from the farm’s vegetable garden. Eaten in their comfy al fresco dining room, the salads are as fresh as they are pretty, and the wine to wash it down with is, of course, made right on the property. Meat options available, too. goatswiththewind.com

Call us crazy, but we’ve rediscovered Italian here. Being Canadian, however, we appreciate MasterChef Canada host “Demon Chef” Alvin Leung’s Michelin-starred Bo Innovations, and new kid on the block Vicky Cheng (alum of Toronto’s George Brown College and Oliver Bonacini) and his one-Michelin-star VEA resto. But it’s the Italian, chef Umberto Bombana, that has us excited. Bombana arrived in 1993 with his truffle-flecked Northern Italian cuisine and never looked back. In 2010, he opened 8½, a fine-dining experience with a little Fellini-esque la dolce vita (hence the name of his resto) thrown in that’s scored three Michelin stars – the only three-starred Italian restaurant outside Italy. Don’t miss the caviar and abalone starter, the white-truffle pasta, risotto or, well, just about anything over which Bombana can shower those earthy truffles. ottoemezzobombana.com boldmagazine.ca

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made

LUXURY GLOBAL BRANDS TAKE NOTE: SHANGHAI’S OWN DESIGN HOUSES FLAUNT A NEWLY CONFIDENT HOMEGROWN STYLE

BY SARAH TRELEAVEN

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in

OPPOSITE PAGE: An incense urn in front of Shanghai’s Jade Buddha Temple.

ON THIS PAGE: Shanghai’s World Financial Centre stands guard over the city’s skyline.

China Bocom Financial Tower by Bernd Thaller. boldmagazine.ca

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Photo by Alfred Weidinger

The colours of the umbrellas and the city lights on a rainy day in Shanghai.

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n my last visit to Shanghai, I spent two days combing various neighbourhoods in search of the man making the last of the city’s hand-hammered woks. I had several maps in hand and had read several stories online about how to navigate the poorly marked lanes of lilongs, the traditional courtyard homes that were rapidly being torn down to make way for luxury condominiums and large-scale infrastructure projects. Twice, sure that the Wok Man was just around the corner, I butted up against a massive dirt hole that used to be a community.

Much of the emphasis on China’s growing affluence has been on the rapid pace of change – the locals being either forced out or priced out of their longstanding communities and the death of artisan practices like the hand-hammered wok I now cherish. I can remember returning to Xi’an in 2014, after a five-year absence, to find McDonald’s and Starbucks in gleaming new malls were replacing small businesses and the small stalls selling the city’s famed street foods, the rich lamb soups and chilled noodles. Hands were being wrung over an increasingly affluent population’s desire to embrace Western goods, especially status symbols from Europe and the United States, possibly at the detriment of local culture.

But there’s a new and more local element to the intersection of money, shopping and status in China – particularly in Shanghai.

The city has rapidly spread into a sea of skyscrapers, and there’s a clear and recognizable, almost generic modernity to many of the city’s most developed neighbourhoods. You can still wander the remaining (and charming) old lilong neighbourhoods, full of winding streets and courtyards strung with laundry, to find cheap, traditional and excellent bowls of fragrant hand-pulled noodle soups. But there’s also a luxe, stylish and increasingly homegrown side to the city, from the slick

all-marble modern-art-filled bars with views over the Bund to the city’s most tempting boutiques and cutting-edge cuisine.

International influence in Shanghai is hardly a new phenomenon. The Bund, a picturesque embankment of impressive colonial buildings, shows off the remnants of French, English and other imperial reaches in 26 different architectural styles. Stepping into the sometimes-faded lobbies, many of which are surprisingly ornate, offers some amazing examples of the bygone opulence that was once the domain of foreign powers and is now being claimed by the Chinese.

The global luxury giants – think Louis Vuitton and Moet & Chandon – have long been popping up alongside Shanghai street stalls serving up steaming bowls of beef brisket noodle soup. (The first Louis Vuitton store in Shanghai opened in 2004.)

But an increasing number of homegrown, high-end designers are also opening up shop. Shanghai has seen a recent boom in homegrown designers, from the avant-garde couturier Guo Pei (who has dressed Lady Gaga and Zhang Ziyi) to Grace Chen (the darling of the city’s female power couturiers), whose boutique is housed in a three-storey art deco mansion in the French Concession.

A leafier and more laid-back antidote to the city’s concrete jungle, the French Concession neighbourhood is full of boutiques selling modern cool. Shang Xia offers elegant, high-end streetwear. Hermes might bankroll it, but founding designer Jiang Qiong Er seeks to blend tradition and modernity, and to transmit Chinese culture and aesthetics in an appealingly contemporary way. At the elegant Shang Xia shop in Xintiandi, I lingered over heritage crafts, including beautiful silk clothing and scarves, delicate porcelain tea sets and handmade furniture – all with very steep price tags. boldmagazine.ca

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The glitzy exterior of one of Shanghai’s many ultra modern shopping centres.

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he Xintiandi neighbourhood, a car-free top-to-tail renovation of classic Shikomen buildings, is the perfect place to shop many of the designers that represent Shanghai’s slick new homegrown style; the fusing of Chinese tradition with modern technique (and price tags). Zen Lifestore is a “lifestyle emporium” that sells high-design housewares, accessories and jewelry. Uma Wang’s flagship store offers her signature knitwear sometimes fused with leather and often drawing on more traditional Chinese patterns. Even the logo for Heirloom Handbags, founded by two local sisters, is an intersection of east and west, combining the letter H with traditional Chinese lattice design.

Unlike local fashion, local foods have always been revered in Shanghai. Many homegrown chefs are now dominating the upscale eating scene – complete with high-design dining rooms and multiple Michelin stars.

At two-starred Yongfoo Elite, located in a 1930s-era villa that was once a private members’ club, diners can sample Shanghainese dishes like smoked codfish with black tea amid Chinese antiques and ornate gardens.

The one-star Da Dong is famous for its traditional Peking duck, and one-star Fu He Hui offers experimental vegetarian cuisine.

The cocktail culture typically found in many of these upscale venues has long been popular – though some bars are now relying less on gimmick Western ingredients (the ubiquitous black truffle, for example) and more on local specialty ingredients. At Taste Buds Cocktail Palace, expect Szechuan peppercorns-infused spirits served in delicate traditional china.

On my first trip to Shanghai – almost a decade ago – I visited No. 50 Moganshan Rd., or M50, a former textile mill now filled with contemporary art galleries and studios. Then, the space felt unique, almost revolutionary – as did the daring and ambiguous ubiquity of Mao Zedong’s image – in the form of a giant papier-mâché statue and smaller sculptures, and in vibrant prints.

But the local art scene in Shanghai has only become both bigger and bolder, and there’s an increasingly dominant field of contemporary Chinese artists. The Shanghai Gallery of Art, with its 35-metre atrium that extends up to the seventh floor, has gained increasing prominence for both the quality of work and the opulent display space. The Long Museum, China’s largest private art museum and founded by a billionaire art collecting couple, displays a range of traditional, revolutionary (heavy on Mao) and modern Chinese art.

On that last visit to Shanghai, after many wrong turns down so many maze-like streets, I finally heard the unmistakable sound of metal being hammered. I followed that sound to a tiny shed, where a middle-age man was sitting on a small bench, surrounded by a dozen woks in various stages of completion. As soon as he saw me, he knew why I was there.

When the hammers of Shanghai’s old artisans stop for good, it will be a bad day for Chinese culture. But the city’s appreciation for cultural integration, the movement to resuscitate or maintain tradition in a way that can feel both respectful and modern, is a delightful lens for any visitor hoping to see a piece of the “new” China.

WHEN YOU GO On the tip of city’s remarkable Bund, the Peninsula Shanghai is a glass and steel marvel of modernity. The hotel’s 235 guest rooms are beautifully appointed in soothing neutral tones, Sir Elly’s restaurant serves contemporary European cuisine and the spa has heated lounge beds. But a finger on the pulse doesn’t necessitate abandonment of the past; new “Peninsula Academy” programs – such as Art of the Century and Modern Shanghai Chic – offer guests the opportunity to observe how Chinese tradition is adapting to new Chinese luxury. shanghai.peninsula.com The art-deco Whampoa Club offers a sophisticated spin on Cantonese cuisine, including over 50 exclusive teas from across China. The restaurant sits in Three on the Bund, one of several very upscale multi-use properties that line the Bund. threeonthebund.com

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VIVE

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THIS SPREAD: Aerial view of Gordon Beach, Tel Aviv.

TEL AVIV

A GLOBETROTTER SETS ASIDE PRECONCEIVED NOTIONS AND DISCOVERS A TASTE OF PARADISE. ANITA DRAYCOTT TAKES A BITE OUT OF THE BIG ORANGE Photography by DENNIS JARVIS

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rue confessions: I am an agnostic and my knowledge of the Holy Land is meagre. I lived for years in a part of Toronto with a large Jewish community. Bagel shops and kosher restaurants I know. And as much as I like a good chewy bagel with lox and cream cheese, I never got excited about what I thought was Jewish cuisine. A trip to Israel was not at the top of my bucket list. I was confused and overwhelmed by the wars, politics and religious conflicts. Israel, however, was number one on my husband’s bucket list and that’s why we found ourselves at the Ben Gurion Airport looking for our guide.

Enter Motti Saar, the man whose infectious enthusiasm for his country turned me into a “believer.”

Saar introduced himself as a true sabra. That’s Hebrew for prickly pear cactus. Think tough and feisty on the outside and really sweet on the inside.

I met a lot of sabras in Israel and I must say that the moniker suits. The national tendency to be somewhat brash is tempered with a healthy dose of warmth and kindness.

BROWN STYLE We stayed at the Brown TLV Urban Hotel, centrally located minutes from the beach, bohemian Neve Tzadek quarter and trendy Rothschild Boulevard. Brash, innovative and fun, the Brown epitomizes the Tel Aviv spirit. The receptionist popped opened a bottle of bubbly and offered us a flute as we checked in at the retro-style lobby. “I hope you enjoy your stay, but mainly I hope you have fun,” she told us.

Up on the rooftop sundeck I found a Jacuzzi and countered jetlag with an open-air massage.

Guests are given a choice of five nearby restaurants that partner with Brown to provide breakfast. Other perks included free use of a nearby gym, complimentary bicycles and yoga classes. Salva Vida, a pop-up restaurant starring young super chef Yuval Fachler was open next to the lobby for three months and offered tasting menus with wine pairings.

Fachler is but one of a host of super chefs exploding on Tel Aviv’s culinary scene. We strolled along the posh Rothschild Boulevard to the Social Club, its brass railings, leather banquettes and a noisy crowd giving it a Manhattan vibe. The waitress brought a parade of starters (mezes). We enthusiastically consumed plates of cheese, charcuterie, Israeli salad (finely chopped tomatoes, cucumbers and onion), hummus, stuffed peppers and fried eggplant.

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THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: The deluxe suite at Brown TLV Urban Hotel; the sundeck at Brown TLV; assorted dry fruit at Carmel Market.

Brown TLV Urban Hotel photos courtesy of the hotel

“Pace yourself,” advised Saar. “Those were just the starters; now we order the main course. In case you haven’t noticed, we Israelis live to eat.”

The next morning Saar led us to the bustling Carmel Market. In a country that is mainly desert, the Israelis have created a remarkable irrigation system, so that the once barren patches of sand are now producing mangos, pomegranates, prickly pears and more.

Did you know that cherry tomatoes were invented in Israel? Thanks to an investment by Baron Edmund de Rothschild, who kick-started Israel’s modern wine industry, there are more than 200 wineries in this land of more than milk and honey.

Carmel Market’s stalls overflowed with gorgeous locally grown produce – glistening fat dates, pyramids of multicolour olives, aromatic spice blends.

Could I resist a glass of freshly squeezed pomegranate juice?

For a self-confessed coffee snob, the café culture is alive and well. They call their lattés “upside down coffees.

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OPPOSITE PAGE: A traditional Israeli mezze platter.

THIS PAGE: The minarets of Jaffa’s al-Bahr Mosque.

THE BIG ORANGE As we munched through the market, Saar gave us a bit of a history lesson.

Jaffa is one of the world’s most ancient port cities, dating back to the Bronze Age. At the beginning of the 20th century, a large number of Jewish immigrants landed there. Many came from Europe and were looking to build lives similar to what they had left behind. In the spring of 1909 a group of these immigrants, fed up with Jaffa’s noisy and unsanitary neighbourhoods, bought some uninhabited sand dunes north of Jaffa, divided the property into parcels of land using a numbered seashell lottery and voilà, Tel Aviv, nicknamed “The Big Orange” (a variation on New York’s Big Apple and the Jaffa orange), was born.

Who knew that ancient, overcrowded, dirty Jaffa would become such a beautiful place combining both Old-World charm and avant-garde chic?

The Old City perched high on a hill overlooking the sea is a marvellous hodgepodge of twisting lanes full of art galleries, boutiques and restaurants.

Don’t miss the Ilana Goor Museum, an 18th-century house where the Israeli sculpture artist resides and works. You might find anything from antiques to hookah pipes at the Jaffa flea market that sprawls around the landmark clock tower. Saar told us that the vibe changes during the evening when many of these stalls become informal bars. On Beit Eshel Street, we stopped at Dr. Shakshuka for a kosher Israeli staple. A shakshuka is a sizzling mix of eggs, poached in a tomato sauce with North African spices served in a wrought iron pan.

We found more upscale retail therapy at the Old Tel Aviv Railway Station where Tel Aviv and Jaffa connect. Unique fashion and decorative accessories, jewellery and more, all by Israeli designers, fill the shelves at Made in TLV. Stock up on skin care products made from minerals in the Dead Sea at Ahava or fabulous footwear at Shufra.

THE WHITE CITY Tel Aviv is also known at The “White City” because many of the Jewish immigrants during the 1930s brought with them the architectural aesthetic of the German Bauhaus movement. You’ll spot many examples of such Bauhaus edifices typified by their rounded balconies, lack of ornamentation, white walls and clean lines. UNESCO named the collection of about 4,000 buildings a World Cultural Heritage site. Bauhaus buffs can take an English-speaking tour every Friday starting at 10am at the Bauhaus Center Tel Aviv. Just around the corner, join locals at communal sidewalk tables at Sabich Frishman for a pita sandwich of the same name that’s filled with hummus, tomatoes, peppers, hard-boiled eggs and spices.

Foodies must also visit the Sarona Market, a mall where the Fauchon Paris store at the entrance is your first clue that this is Tel Aviv’s upscale eating emporium. Craft beer from the Golan Heights, popsicles made with ouzo and grapefruit, halvah spiked with chillies, cheese soused with truffle oil, celebrity chef restaurants and so much more vie for your shekels at Sarona, also the only place in Tel Aviv where I spotted bagels. “Bagels are not Israeli Jewish food, they are American,” explained Saar.

PICK YOUR BEACH For all of its urban glitz, there’s another side of Tel Aviv – an idyllic stretch of golden beaches and promenades.

Mezizim Beach attracts the party crowd.

Beside Hilton Beach, where you can surf, there is Nordau, a religious beach where men and women swim on alternate days.

Alma Beach in Jaffa is home to Manta Ray restaurant, famous for its Middle Eastern mezze.

Even The New York Times has dubbed the city, “The Capital of Cool.” Foodies, sun worshippers, shopaholics, hedonists, gay and lesbian people and others rave about it. Now I understand why. “We can make shekels out of nothing. It’s in our genes to strive, sell and be the best,” says Saar. “Despite all the wars and strife, see what we have accomplished.”

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Cuba 46 boldmagazine.ca

Unlimited

Fidel Castro dominated the country for more than half a century. As the Cuban people rediscover their place in the world, PAUL GALLANT argues that it’s time for Canadians to dig deeper into the Caribbean nation’s rich culture

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C

limbing the steep steps of the Manacas-Iznaga tower, I stop to catch my breath and take in the view. The finger-like structure has stood over of Cuba’s Valley of the Sugar Mills since the early 1800s. Whether it was built (according to one legend) to impress a girl or (more pragmatically) to watch over the work of the slaves harvesting the sugarcane that even today remains the backbone of Cuba’s economy, it’s an ambitious structure that lords over a lusciously bucolic countryside, dwarfing the nearby colonial house where the bosses would have lived.

Finally reaching the tower’s top level, I nearly trip over a young Czech couple who have cycled to the countryside and climbed the tower to eat their packed lunch in this romantic and unexpectedly private spot. At first I’m a little puzzled how the two young Europeans ended up here in the countryside of Central West Cuba. Canadians, who typically make up about 40 per cent of Cuba’s tourists, can have an almost proprietary attitude toward the island. But here, a good four hour’s drive from the Varadero beaches that most Canadians think of when they think of a Cuban holiday, I am discovering that I definitely have some catching up to do.

History and culture, more than the beaches, lure non-Canadian visitors to Cuba’s seductive colonial cities and sites that commemorate political clashes heard around the world. Putting down their sandwiches for a minute, the Czech couple remind me of the Soviet-era connection between this country and theirs. Back in 1968, still buzzing from Cuba’s 1959 revolution, Fidel Castro praised the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia, as it was folded into the Soviet Union. Obviously not a pleasant chapter of history for the Czechs, but it made this otherwise remote Caribbean nation part of their country’s Communist fever dream. These days, Poles, Czechs, Hungarians and Russians regularly make pilgrimages here, the latter known for their propensity to shell out as much as $1,000 for a single bottle of rum.

As desperate as winter-weary Canadians can be for a chance to drink unlimited cocktails on beautiful white-sand beaches, we have been grossly negligent about exploring the many layers of Cuban culture. Former Spanish colony. Part of the Atlantic slave trade. Pre-revolutionary playground of the American mafia. Defining moment for countercultural icon Che Guevara. Fiefdom of Fidel Castro. The classic cars are cool, sure, but merely the tip of the sugarcane.

For a long time, seeing more than beaches was a challenge.

But the slow transition of power from Fidel, whose death last November has been followed by a period of national soul-searching, to his brother Raul, a much more pragmatic leader, has made it easier to explore the nooks and crannies, the cigar factories and hair salons. And not just for history lessons. Cuba Libres in hand, we can now soak up the spirit of a nation increasingly in dialogue with global culture (yes, there’s Internet; yes, it’s awful), that’s becoming more confident about its sense of style and more creative about how to make the best of its humble material circumstances.

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PREVIOUS SPREAD: A young Cuban couple enjoys some new technology. THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: View from the ground of the Manaca-Iznaga Tower, erected in 1750 to watch over slaves in the sugarcane fields near Trinidad; an vintage car that still starts; view of Trinidad’s cathedral.

“AN ARRAY OF 20-SOMETHING VISITORS FROM AROUND THE WORLD ARE SPRAWLED ON THE STEPS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE STREET, TALKING PHILOSOPHY

”

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O

utside Trinidad’s Iglesia Parroquial de la Santísima one evening, my ears can’t decide what to listen to. Swoony salsa comes from Casa de la Músíca, where the outdoor dancefloor is packed. An array of 20-something visitors from around the world are sprawled on the steps that lead up to the Casa, talking philosophy. The vendors selling drinks out of the front of homes around the square play their own intertwining soundtracks. Then there are the locals, gossiping in the fast, clipped castellano that I, with my beginner’s Spanish, find absolutely incomprehensible. I don’t know what I expected to find in Trinidad, with a population of about 73,000, about the size of Drummondville, Quebec, but it wasn’t something this dynamic, this gentrified. The outdoor cafés, the chalkboard menus in front of resto-bars reminds me of Cusco, Peru, or Antigua, Guatemala, in their shabby-chic days, before they became upscale tourist meccas. By day, Trinidad is all bright colonial colours, colonial mansions with high ceilings, marble floors, chandeliers and frescoes. By night, it’s more akin to a nightclub. There are new hotels, many increasingly upscale, but the casas particulares system, where foreign visitors can rent accommodations directly from locals, has built a true sense of cultural exchange between Cuba and the rest of the world.

The day before, I had visited Cienfuegos, about an hour and a half up the coast. With a population of more than 400,000, it’s much larger than Trinidad but is at a slightly earlier stage of touristic transformation. Its main commercial stretches are still dominated by more traditional restaurants and general-store-type retailers that provide insight into the lives of average Cubans. But I can’t imagine Cienfuegos resisting trendy bistros for long. Under Raul, state-run businesses have become more sophisticated, competing with newer private entrepreneur-run businesses.

While Trinidad’s colonial architecture is tightly packed, Cienfuegos was founded later, upon more generous Spanish Enlightenment planning principles. Sunshine fills the streets, which radiate out in a grid from Parque José Martí and the flamboyant Governor’s Palace. Ambling around the square, I see a bus of American tourists. Since 2015, it’s been easier for them to visit Cuba, but only for educational, cultural and religious reasons. Lucky them, to first discover this country through its history and people. But lucky me, who can do the same – and then hit the beach afterwards.

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OPPOSITE PAGE: A Canadian favourite, the beaches of Varadero.

BEYOND VARADERO Though the capital is a magnet for those in search of the real Cuba, Havana isn’t the only place you can have a taste. Added benefit of visiting smaller colonial cities: they’re usually more relaxed and easier to navigate.

CIENFUEGOS You could imagine Aladdin living in the Spanish-Moorish fantasia that’s Palacio del Valle, near the end of the city’s malecon.

It’s a great place to try the local seafood or enjoy a drink on the rooftop patio.

TRINIDAD Centrally located and suitably swank, the pistachio-green Iberostar Grand Hotel Trinidad conjures 19 th-century style not far from the heart of Trinidad’s nightlife.

iberostar.com HAVANA The capital has been an urban adventure for visitors to Cuba for a while. With the opening this year of the Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski La Habana, they can now do it in luxury. kempinski.com CAYO SANTA MARIA The 48-kilometre causeway to this string of spectacular north-side beaches was completed in 1999, setting off a boom in new resorts, many of them upscale properties. Banyan Tree Hotels & Resorts is opening the new Dhawa Cayo Santa Maria Cuba here and, on Las Brujas island alone, four new hotels are scheduled to open this year. For a five-star all-inclusive, it’s hard to beat the Iberostar Ensenachos. The suites in its upscale Grand Village section are huge and the food is a cut above what you’ll find at the buffet. iberostar.com

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TRAVEL NAVIGATOR O U R T I P S A N D T R I C KS TO N AV I GAT I N G T H E WO R L D

Marks of distinction As hotels try harder to set themselves apart, MICHAEL SMITH has discovered that they’re becoming increasingly creative about tickling the delight of their guests

ILLUSTRATION BY LAURA GARCÍA

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[ INTEL ]

A

s airlines cut away services in a race to be the cheapest, the hotel industry has been going in the opposite direction. With many hotels being bought up by larger chains, brands are forced to find ways to distinguish themselves from the rest. This means a wave of new and creative amenities and concepts meant to win your loyalty. Here are some that stand out.

Virgin Hotels

Kimpton Hotels

Does anyone need a drink?

Part of your stay at Virgin Hotels is a free happy hour at the bar. Prefer to stay in your room? Their mini-bar boasts street pricing, so you can actually afford to taste what’s inside. The other added benefit is a Tesla car service to get you around town.

Feeling lonely? At select Kimpton Hotels, you can have a goldfish to keep you company with their Guppy Love program – complimentary, of course.

virginhotels.com

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kimptonhotels.com

Rancho Valencia At Rancho Valencia in San Diego, you can get your sweat on playing tennis or joining in with the yoga and pilates classes. After class you can hit the town in a Porsche that’s provided for free. The resort and spa teamed up with the local Porsche dealer to offer the Porsche Test Drive Program, where you can choose between a Cayenne GTS or a Panamera S Hybrid to drive for a day. If you like the experience, you can buy one at the resort. Unfortunately this amenity is only open to travellers with a valid US driver’s licence and proof of US insurance. ranchovalencia.com

Hard Rock

Even Hotels

Show off your inner superstar at Hard Rock Hotels, where you can select one of 20 Fender guitars, along with headphones and a floor amp for you to play your favourite jam. The hotel brand also offers in-room video lessons for anyone looking to learn.

Trying to stick to your fitness routine? EVEN Hotels, part of the InterContinental Hotels Group, won’t let your holiday or your work get in the way. In your room you will find cork flooring and equipment like a yoga mat and pilates ball, along with fitness videos to guide you. This is in addition to the hotel’s well-equipped communal gym and the healthy food options on offer for breakfast.

hardrockhotels.com

Hotel Erwin If a Fender isn’t rock ’n’ roll enough, then head over to Hotel Erwin at Venice Beach in Los Angeles, where you can get a $100 tattoo voucher from a local studio as part of their Ink + Stay package. They also provide lotion, an icepack and a bottle of tequila to numb the pain, even though they swear it doesn’t hurt that badly.

hotelerwin.com

evenhotels.com

Ruby Lilly Hotel & Bar For those who care more about how their surroundings look than maintaining a fitness regime, Munich’s Ruby Lilly Hotel & Bar has set out to be a lean, mean designer’s dream. They’ve done away with the lobby, replacing it with a touch-screen check-in at their stylish bar. They also have plenty of décor items for triggerhappy photographers that will keep Instagram feeds filled. ruby-hotels.com FLIGHT PLANS

Planning a trip to Europe this fall? Then consider tacking on an extra destination to your itinerary – and here is why: Portuguese carrier TAP is adding flight stopovers in Lisbon and Porto to all of its transatlantic routes, with added perks, such as preferred hotel rates and complimentary wine tasting packages from their partners, if you do choose to stop in Lisbon or Porto. Some November and December trips to Madrid and Paris from Toronto include a complimentary stopover for around CAD$360 one way. Too good to be true? Nope! The airline just wants its customers to “Discover Portugal” on the way to their final destination.–

MARLON MORENO For more information, visit

www.flytap.com

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Our Insider’s Guide to

Washington, D.C.

STAY

OPPOSITE PAGE: View of Washington’s imposing Mormon Temple. THIS PAGE: A classic steak dinner from Bourbon Steak at the Four Seasons.

EAT DRINK SEE & DO

“A city of Southern efficiency and Northern charm,” is how former president John F. Kennedy described the US capitol. Get ready to be charmed by the history, cutting-edge culture, iconic landmarks – and a night-time energy that rivals the liveliest congressional debate.

Capitol, just Capitol! DOUG O’NEILL takes a tour. boldmagazine.ca

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STAY WANT TO KNOW WHERE TO CHECK IN? HERE, THE HOTELS WE’RE EXCITED ABOUT, ESPECIALLY WHEN LOBBYISTS AND POLITICOS CLEAR OUT OF WASHINGTON WHEN CONGRESS IS IN RECESS.

RED-BRICK ELEGANCE With just 49 rooms and 12 suites, the intimate and upscale Rosewood Washington is on the historic C&O Canal.

The rooftop wrap-around bar allows guests to Instagram sweeping views of the Potomac River. From US$520.

rosewoodhotels.com

SLEEPING WITH PRESIDENTS

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: The Rosewood Washington Hotel’s Rye Bar; the Rosewood’s Georgetown Suite; Exterior of the W Hotel; the W’s lobby.

Presidents Abraham Lincoln and George H.W. Bush bedded down at the Willard InterContinental Washington. This luxurious 1850s Beaux-Arts hotel, just two blocks from the White House, is also where Martin Luther King crafted his famous speech, “I Have A Dream.” From US$360. ihg.com

DEFINITION OF DIGNITY Located in the heart of Georgetown, the Four Seasons Washington is a five-diamond hotel, complete with an awardwinning restaurant, three-level fitness centre, 60-foot pool, eucalyptusscented steam room and more than 1,640 pieces of art. From US$695. fourseasons.

com/washington

GLAMOUR CENTRAL Become a lounge-chair traveller at the swish POV (Point of View) Terrace atop the W Washington, originally built as the Hotel Washington in 1917. The White House and Pentagon are within view. From $320.

wwashingtondc.com

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EAT THE CITY’S HOTTEST TABLES DISH UP AN ENTICING MIX OF FUSION CUISINES.

GRACE NOTES

SERIOUS STEAKS

On Iron Gate’s wisteria-covered patio, Greek and Italian food makes for the perfect Washington evening – doubly so if the chef’s corned octopus is on the tasting menu.

If you’re splurging on a 28-ounce rib eye, you want chef Michael Mina to man the grill.

Bourbon Steak was voted (by locals) as the best steakhouse in Washington. bourbonsteakdc.com

irongaterestaurantdc.com

CARIBBEAN FLAVOURS By all means, share a plate of fingerlicking jerk chicken at Pimento Grill.

But keep the mango mousse dessert at this laid-back Jamaican resto all to yourself.

Just saying.

Closed Sundays. pimento-grill.com

INGENIOUSLY INDIGENOUS

FOOD TRUCK FIESTA TRACKER Food trucks are trending in the capital.

Look for mobile faves such as Carnivore BBQ or Takorean near L’Enfant Plaza Metro Station or just track them on Twitter.

ON THIS PAGE: Seasonal dishes at Iron Gate; guests dining al fresco.

@foodtruckfeista

MANGIA!

The cafeteria (yes, cafeteria) at the National Museum of the American Indian closes at 3pm. And that’s a pity. Mitsitam Café’s American Indian lunch options include buffalo burgers with green chilis and maple-andjuniper-glazed salmon.

Count on perfect pasta daily at G

by Mike Isabella, but reserve a spot for chef Isabella’s weekly Sunday Gravy, when he re-creates his Italian family’s traditional weekend feast of calamari, spaghetti and pork shoulder.

mitsitamcafe.com

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DRINK

FOUR PLACES TO GO AFTER DARK.

BREWS AND BRUNCH Don’t tell anyone, but Happy Hour at DC Reynolds runs until 9pm. Enjoy a microbrew at the communal tables out back at this small Petworth neighbourhood pub.

dcreynoldsbar.com

TEXT EASY Patrons gain access to the underground cocktail bar Dram & Grain from Wednesday to Saturday by texting or phoning the number on a card retrieved upstairs at Jack Rose’s bar. Seats 20 patrons.

jackrosediningsaloon.com

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FUN WITHOUT DISTRACTIONS The Boardroom DC is about beer and board games. Select from 21 drafts and 30-plus board games. No mobile phones allowed. You’ll end up talking (really talking) to locals. boardroomdc.com

RUM JOB Don’t be daunted by the warehouse exterior of Cotton & Reed, D.C.’s only rum distillery. Weekend tours include a rum flight tasting.

cottonandreed.com

WORTH THE SIP Tipple with a twist Back in 2011, locals proclaimed The Rickey, a lime-infused cocktail (laced with gin or bourbon), as the official drink of Washington. Variations abound.

Quill Bar serves a traditional Rickey (two ounces of gin or bourbon, juice of one lime, club soda, lime wedge), while Bar Charley features a concoction of carbonated gin and Orange Crush. The Teddy & The Bully Bar tops off their gin and seltzer version with key lime pie foam. jeffersondc.com/dining/

quill; barcharley.com; teddyandthebullybar.com

Capitol Hill photo by Geoff Livingston

SEE & DO SURE, THE WHITE HOUSE AND HIRSHHORN ARE ON YOUR LIST, BUT LEAVE TIME FOR THESE UNDER-THE-RADAR GEMS.

STATE SECRET

FOR NEWS JUNKIES

PRECIOUS PANDAS

The International Spy Museum is the only public museum in the United States dedicated exclusively to espionage. Must-see exhibit: Spies Among Us. Best gift-shop souvenir: “Deny Everything” T-shirt.

The seven floors of interactive exhibits, galleries and theatres at Nuseum highlight the biggest news stories of our time. Must-see: a real chunk of the Berlin Wall. newseum.org

The best time to see the Giant Pandas is early morning. Bonus: the Smithsonian Institute offers free admission to most of its 19 museums – and that includes the National Zoo.

spymuseum.org

POLITICS AND PINTS

BLOSSOM TIME

Capitol Hill Tour. Join a two-hour ramble through the stately Capitol Hill neighbourhood, stopping at the Supreme Court and Library of Congress before wrapping up with a refreshing pint. getyourguide.com

Busloads of tourists crowd Washington’s cherry blossomlined Tidal Basin each spring, but locals recommend a visit to the less-crowded – though equally stunning – Dumbarton Oaks Gardens in Georgetown. doaks.org

nationalzoo.si.edu

ARTSY ESCAPE Wine with your watercolours?

Sip a glass (or two) of vino while you paint your masterpiece at ArtJamz, this laid-back (licensed) art studio. Novices welcome.

artjamz.co

An early morning runner outside the Capitol building.

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U PGRADES E X P LO R E . D I S C OV E R . E X P E R I E N C E . I N D U LG E .

NICE & SLOVENIA

With its endless hills, peaceful forests and grand castles, northern Slovenia’s mountainous landscape is fairytale splendour brought to life.

PRESENTED BY

View of the little island in the middle of Lake Bled.

T FACTS: Half of Slovenia’s 20,000 square kilometres are covered in forest and it is one of the most waterrich countries in all of Europe.

So rich, in fact, that forests and waterways play a central role in our walking tour of the mountainous countryside.

he central European nation state is bordered by Croatia, Austria, Hungary, Italy and the Adriatic Sea, with the Julian Alps and Karavankas Range on its northern edge. With their jagged limestone peaks, glacial lakes, wild meadows and dense forests, the Karavankas provide us with a gentle climate, typical for Slovenia, especially compared to the harsher Austrian side to the north.

THERE WILL BE BLED Not soon after landing, it’s time to strap on our hiking shoes and hit the trail for some relatively easy and relaxing hikes through our tranquil surroundings.

Just 20 minutes outside the Slovenian capital, Ljubljana, lies the quaint, captured-in-time town of Radovljica. On the southern slope of the Karavankas mountain range, it rests on the confluence of the Sava Bohinjka and the Sava Dolinka, two headwaters emerging from the Sava River.

The earliest recorded deeds for the area suggest it was established in the late 13th century, and today it is still brimming with Old World tradition: a quaint town centre, charming inns, churches, outdoor markets and historic monuments, all surrounded by the country’s largest moats.

An enchanting introduction to our week in Slovenia!

But the real reason for our visit to this town lies an easy six-kilometre walk outside its borders: the glacial and tectonic creation, Lake Bled. In the Upper Carniolan region of the Julian Alps, the lake rests in an impossibly majestic vista surrounded by the area’s renowned forests

and mountains. Its blue waters contrast the surrounding greenery. Hiring an oarsman for a gentle ride on a Pletna boat, a distinctly Bled tradition since the 1500s, is the perfect way to experience the lake’s serenity.

Perched 130 metres above is one of Slovenia’s oldest castles (possibly dating back to 1011). The red-roofed Bled Castle, jutting up from a rocky cliffside, is one of the country’s can’t-miss attractions. In addition to providing the breathtaking view of the lake below, the castle is also an important cultural centre, playing host to festivals and events.

And resting peacefully in the middle of the lake is Bled Island, home to a 17th-century church, adorned with remnants from an even older Gothic fresco. It’s a popular wedding location, where we find a husband carrying his new bride up the 99 stone steps leading up to the church – a tradition meant to bring good luck to newlyweds.

Before leaving the area, we reward ourselves with one of the town of Bled’s signature delights: Bled Cream Cake, a rich, custardy cake doused in powdered sugar.

FROM TOP TO PLATEAU Visible from Lake Bled, the beautifully forested Pokljuka Plateau is 20 kilometres of virtually uninhabited wilderness. Found in Triglav National Park some 1,300 metres above sea level, it is lush with wild flowers and bird life that can only be experienced here.

The area is a popular dairy producer. And, as we follow old bear migration routes through the forest, we spot some abandoned shepherder shacks at Zajamniki.

We are even able to sample the sour milk, cheese and curds from local producers. A walk along its many rural trails offers us sights of Alpine cows, pastures and unparalleled mountain views.

PARTNER CONTENT

GORGE YOURSELF

© 2017 PULSO MEDIA GROUP INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Tucked in the far northwest corner of Slovenia, on the borders of both Italy and Austria, is the valley village of Gozd Martuljek (known simply as Gozd until 1995).

It is wrapped in the peaks of the Karavankas and the Julian Alps, with green hills cascading into snow-capped mountains. In particular, the Julian Alps’ Špik mountain range (its similarity to the English word “spike” is no coincidence) reaches more than 2,000 metres into the sky, forming Gozd’s distinct, unforgettable skyline.

Traditional wooden homes and inns dot the landscape.

After a hearty breakfast, we are ready for a day of hiking and exploration in the nearby Martuljek Gorge. The day’s journey starts on the valley’s forest trail, following the stream down into the gorge, along moss-covered rocky shores and log cabins tucked into the mountainsides. Our destination: the area’s two spectacular waterfalls, the Martuljkovi slapovi.

First up is the 30-metre Spodnji, or Lower Fall. Pouring over a deep rocky gorge, it flows into a small, blue pool below, ideal for a cool, refreshing dip. The trail on the way up to the second waterfall offers rest areas with impressive views of the gorge and valley below.

The second, even more impressive, is Zgornji (or Higher Fall), farther up the mountain. It is more than 100 metres high, carved deep into a rocky groove, before rolling across the mountain’s white-stone wall.

We can’t leave the area without sampling the homemade food from the Alpine farm and bivouac (an open-air restaurant), called Pri Ingotu. They serve up fermented milk and žganci, a local dish similar to polenta, made from buckwheat, popular with farmhands.

SUNNY SIDE ALPS Despite being home to structures more than 1,000 years old, Slovenia is actually one of Europe’s newest countries (it used to be a part of Yugoslavia).

And its location on the “sunny side” of the Alps offers rewarding beauty, both natural and manmade, not yet popular with tourists.

OPPOSITE PAGE: Kayaking on the Soca River; Bled Castle; following the Bohinj cheese trail.

ON THIS PAGE: The slopes of Mount Konjice; a Pletna boat on Lake Bled; an aerial view of Ljubljana’s Old Town.

Experience Slovenia’s timeless, enchanting wonder for yourself. Plan your trip with exodustravels.com/slovenia-holidays

CALL 1-800-267-3347 VISIT WWW.EXODUSTRAVELS.COM

WORTH TRAVELLING FOR

THE

MUSE

T I E R R A ATAC A M A H OT E L & S PA , S A N P E D R O D E ATAC A M A , C H I L E

Doubles start at US$900/ night, minimum two nights, all inclusive.

reservas@tierrahotels.com; tierrahotels.com

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C

reated by the Purcell family, long-time owners and operators of the famed Ski Portillo, the Tierra Atacama Hotel and Spa is built on the site of an old cattle corral, where the drovers who brought cattle from Argentina to the Port of Antofagasta stopped to feed and rest their animals after the tough crossing of the Andes.

The lobby of this adventure-spa hotel features floor-to-ceiling windows and stone floors that leave little separation between you and the surrounding Atacama Desert; its breathtaking expanses are right into your living room. The rustic, minimalist décor includes furniture and accessories handmade with local materials, desert plant life and sharp angles that enhance the lobby’s bare natural ambience.

The lobby is most striking in the morning, when the glass walls flood the room with early morning sunlight and makes for the perfect spot to enjoy yerba mate or coffee before a day of hiking and biking in the desert.

Highly recommended: The Warm Up Tatio Geysers & Hot Stone Massage. At 12,000 feet (4,500 metres), the Tatio geysers offer mindblowing, out-of-this-world landscapes. At sunrise, each geyser is surmounted by a column of steam that condenses in the cold air. Back at the hotel, a hot stone massage will warm your whole body, and remind you of the hot water deep in the rocks of the geyser field. When night falls, take in the brilliant stars, basking in the peace and wonder that is the Atacama Desert. – MARLON MORENO

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DIM SUM AND THEN SOME,

ON POINTS.

ANY AIRLINE, ANY FLIGHT, ANY TIME. AVIONERS CAN DO THAT. ®

Hong Kong

Subject to availability. Some restrictions may apply. For complete terms, visit rbc.com/travelredemption. ®/™ Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC and Royal Bank are registered trademarks of Royal Bank of Canada. ‡ All other trademarks are the property of their respective owner(s).