Bold Winter Escapes

THE BOLD LIST

INTO THE

BLUE Dive into Los Cabos

Beachside in the Bahamas Chilling in Chile 5 SKI RESORTS to get your slalom on

The BEST Destinations

of the year

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FEED THE NEED TO TACO with

ANY AIRLINE, ANY FLIGHT, ANY TIME. AVIONERS CAN DO THAT. ®

Learn about Mexico’s culture, folklore, and food on a culinary walking tour of Los Cabos. Discover local foodie hotspots in the vibrant downtown district, and try classic favorites like tacos and quesadillas. Do it all, on points!

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Subject to availability. Some restrictions may apply. For complete terms, visit rbc.com/travelredemption. † To receive the 15,000 bonus RBC Rewards points, your application form must be approved by us.

Upon enrolment, 15,000 bonus RBC Rewards points will appear on your first monthly statement. This offer may not be combined or used in conjunction with any other offer. Royal Bank of Canada reserves the right to withdraw this offer at any time, even after acceptance by you. ®/™ Trademark(s) of Royal Bank of Canada. RBC and Royal Bank are registered trademarks of Royal Bankboldmagazine.ca of Canada. ‡ All other trademarks are the property of their respective owner(s).

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trafalgar.com See your travel agent

Discover ‘The Good Life’ in Europe & Britain with Trafalgar’s NEW 2019 Program From iconic to unexpected, Trafalgar, the world leader in travel for over 72 years is excited to connect Canadian travellers like no other with the launch of their 2019 Europe & Britain guided vacations.

Offering 116 handcrafted journeys to over 220 cities, guests can now leave the guidebook at home while Trafalgar shows the rich diversity and leaving them to be free, happy, inspired and in their moment. Discover the real Europe’s hidden gems, centuries old traditions and cultural highlights with no experience quite like the other.

Trafalgar is dedicated to helping Canadian travellers plan and travel with ease guaranteed as well as best value. Therefore, guests who book their 2019 travel adventure and pay in full by January 31, 2019 will save up to 10%*on selected trips. Trafalgar’s European trips offers carefully crafted unique holidays that will reveal the real soul of each region and leave guests with their own ‘pinch me’ moments. With their JoinTrafalgar program, travellers will leave a lasting legacy for the locals and a positive future for their communities.

Here’s how travellers can discover ‘The Good Life’ and hottest destinations for 2019 with Trafalgar:

the most scenic setting on the island and the sunsets will linger long after you’ve left the island’s whitewashed villages that seem to tumble down the dramatic volcanic landscape.

CROATIA AND SLOVENIA

SPAIN AND PORTUGAL

Embarking on Trafalgar’s NEW 11-day Best of Croatia and Slovenia trip, guests will explore ancient capitals, Adriatic seaside retreats and natural icons including Plitvice and Lake Bled.

One of the many special handcrafted Trafalgar highlights guests will love includes Trafalgar’s ‘Dive Into Culture’ experience, where travellers will learn about the world-famous and delicious Istrian white truffles. They will also join a family in Opatja at a traditional ‘Be My Guest’ dinner and enjoy Mediterranean regional dishes.

SANTORINI ISLAND

Guests can extend their Best of Greece or Best of Italy and Greece trips with a visit to Mykonos on Trafalgar’s NEW 5-day Santorini Island Extension. In the Santorini vineyards, bound for the beautiful clifftop village of Oia, arguably

When travelling on Trafalgar’s NEW 14-day Treasures of Spain and Portugal adventure, guests will immerse themselves in the intense fiery capitals of Madrid and Lisbon and explore spiritual pilgrimages and cultural icons.

When visiting Seville, travellers will enjoy a traditional Andalusian dinner with the Morillo family during an exclusive Trafalgar ‘Be My Guest’ experience. They will enjoy learning about the family’s way of life and how they produce olive oil from their farm.

For more information on Trafalgar’s 2019 Europe and Britain program, please visit Trafalgar.com/en-ca and follow us on Facebook, Instagram and, Twitter. @TrafalgarTravel

@TrafalgarCanada

Terms & Conditions *Save 10% early payment discounts on the land-portion of selected Trafalgar trips when paid in full by 31 January 2019. Discounts may be combinable with other brochure discounts where applicable. Valid only on new bookings. A deposit is required on booking as per payment conditions and the full amount must be paid by 31 January 2019 to qualify for the 10% early payment discount. Not valid on Costsaver, custom groups, Oberammergau or any other offers. Subject to availability and may be withdrawn at any time. Other conditions may apply.

About Trafalgar: With 70 years of expertise, we infuse every Trafalgar trip with the best moments, like our exclusive Insider experiences, VIP treatment and relaxing free time. We’re committed to doing everything to giving our guests the best vacation. And that means, they’re guaranteed the best memories. To learn more about Trafalgar, please visit us at Trafalgar.com. boldmagazine.ca

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MILES ABOVE

AIR CANADA’S NEW SIGNATURE SERVICE REDRAWS THE BOUNDARIES BETWEEN TRAVEL AND VACATION TIME

or years, the mechanics of vacationing remained remarkably the same.

Stood between you and vacation lay a flight and airport experience that was often just a means to an end. Until along came Air Canada Signature Service, that is. The new offering from Air Canada, launched in April, is blurring the boundaries between travel time and “me time”.

This unabashedly high-end experience makes one thing clear: your escape begins the moment you walk into the airport terminal. Gone are hour-long lineups that can dampen the spirits of even the most eager vacation traveller. Priority service at check-in, security, boarding and even customs ensures the process of getting from taxi to plane is completely seamless, making your jaunt through the airport not only bearable but… pleasant. Gasp!

F

ANYTHING ELSE Once aboard, you really begin to appreciate the scope and quality of the amenities offered. Complimentary champagne and a lavishly curated in-flight menu await you in the exclusive Signature Class cabin. Lie-flat seats and a sumptuous duvet will have you wondering whether you walked onto an aircraft or into a five-star hotel. The quality of the in-flight food also bears repeating, with signature dishes from Canadian chefs David Hawksworth on flights departing from North America and Vikram Vij on flights from Canada to India that are complemented by delectable wine pairings from renowned sommelier Véronique Rivest. The full menu is served ninety minutes into the flight to ensure passengers can enjoy a full meal before cabin lights are dimmed. After applying refreshing cream from Vancouver-based apothecary vitruvi from the delightful amenity kits made exclusively for Air Canada by Montreal luxury designers WANT Les Essentiels, you’ll find it alluringly easy to drift off into blissful sleep in a seat that is more bed than chair.

The on-ground amenities available to Signature Service travellers are also a cut above. Air Canada’s new, high-concept Signature Suite at Toronto Pearson offers true luxury in its pre-flight dining experience, with an award-winning food menu rounded out with innovative cocktails. And for travellers transiting through Toronto Pearson from a domestic to international flight, there’s an extra little perk: a chauffeured BMW ready to transport you across the tarmac to your next flight! Now that’s what I call attention to detail.

It’s clear that in crafting its Signature Service, Air Canada listened intently to flyer feedback. The airline industry has been rocked by service lapses in recent years that have captured headlines and led to outpourings on social media. Increased focus on customer service is a welcome trend in the sector. Air Canada has introduced a renewed fleet and expanded global network that have helped it take home the 2018 Skytrax Best airline in North America award for the seventh time in nine years. Signature Service is perhaps not so much a continuation of this commitment as it is an evolution: a new and unparalleled step forwards in comfort and convenience.

With Signature Service, Air Canada has hit upon a uniquely Canadian way of doing premium: a blend of simplicity and luxury that has again raised the bar in the category. This isn’t just any upgrade: it’s a vacation before your vacation. Why not see for yourself? Signature Class is available on international, transborder and domestic Air Canada flights operated by 767, 777, 787, and A330 aircraft.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT AIR CANADA SIGNATURE SERVICE, VISIT AIRCANADA.COM/SIGNATURESERVICE Produced by Moreno & Co. 2018

71 Isn’t Just a Great Golf Round at Sea Island!

71% sunny days in January

•

71º average high temperature in February

(And zero snow days)

fishing Stream lf u G e and r-shor e, nea r o 6 h s In

Three ch ampion ship golf courses

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Beating par is great — but here, “71” makes January and February just right for enjoying our new 71’ yacht, new 18-hole putting course, and new 17,000-square-foot Golf Performance Center (early 2019), plus five miles of private beach, Forbes Five-Star spa, and so much more.

The Only Resort In The World To Achieve Four Forbes Five-Stars Ten Years in A Row

Past weather is not an indicator of the future…but come see for yourself!

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seaisland .com 800-284-5915

SATU RDAY

3 10 17 24

CONTENTS WINTER 2018/2019

In This Issue 43 THE BOLD LIST

Presented in partnership with RBC, our annual list of the best destinations to feed your need for travel

59 BEGUILED BY BAJA

Tucked between the Pacific and the Sea of Cortez, Los Cabos has become a transcendent playground for sun seekers and food lovers, reports Paul Gallant

Photo courtesy of Los Cabos Tourism Board

68 THE BEST OF THE BEST

Our friends at the Virtuoso travel network honour the world’s best luxury properties with their annual awards of excellence

Surfing the turquoise waters of Los Cabos. boldmagazine.ca

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CONTENTS WINTER 2018/2019

19

30 40

14

Also in This Issue 12 EDITOR’S NOTE 14 CRUISE: When escaping winter, head for the high seas

38 GLOBETROTTER: MOCA’s Heidi Reitmaier shares her travel philosophies

40 BEAUTY: Carry-on-sized editors’ picks for pre, during and after the flight.

16 CONTRIBUTORS 19 GREAT OUTDOORS: Why these are our favourite ski resorts this winter 22 CULTURE: Where to find the world’s

76 TRAVEL INTEL: Tips for travelling with kids and other useful advice 82 WORTH TRAVELLING FOR: Victoria

Harbour, Hong Kong

quirkiest museums

26

24 TRAVEL TWO WAYS: Two cities show two sides of Chile—and poet Pablo Neruda

26 STAY: Four Seasons Bahamas 28 DINE: Montreal’s ever-evolving culinary universe

30 FOOD DIARIES: The life of chef Janet Zuccarini in photos

32 DRINK: Bartender Wes Galloway’s favourite vodka recipe

33 LOCAL EXPERT: Shift design founder Nimish Shah on the best of Mumbai

34 WEEKENDER: The delicious charm of

Miami’s South Beach

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FP

Come take in all of the soul–satisfying sights, sounds, flavours and places Louisiana serves up daily.

Plan your getaway today at LouisianaTravel.com/Canada. Š 2018 Louisiana Department of Culture, Recreation & Tourism

EDITOR’S NOTE

How do you define the best?

You might find yourself in a hotel room with a comfy bed, nice clean sheets and all the amenities right where you need them, but still feel a sense that there’s something missing. Even on the most utilitarian trips, we want to have a sense of where we are, a sense of—dare I say it?—magic. We want to discover something that’s worth a disruption of our comfortable daily rituals.

An unexpected piece of art on the nightstand might do it. Or a staff member who keeps the pool open late for you after you checked in much later than you planned.

Or the can of spray starch that arrives with the ironing board. Or the spectacular view you didn’t expect. Though there are luxury properties that specialize in this kind of wizardry, they can materialize whenever there are people who give thought and attention to the human capacity to be relieved and delighted.

The two “best” lists you’ll find in this issue demonstrate just a couple of ways to navigate the often confusing proposition of where to go next. Our friends at Virtuoso, a network of the world’s most savvy travel advisors, have shared with BOLD readers their list of top properties in categories ranging from design to dining experience (it starts on page 68, but you’ll have to read to the end to discover who wins the award for Hotel of the Year).

We try to be equally discerning when we compile our own annual BOLD List—but we also follow our passions. It might be a remarkable property that catches our eye, or the magical experiences offered by an entire city.

Your BOLD List journey starts on page 43.

I first visited Los Cabos, which I write about on page 59, when a friend of mine moved there from Vancouver to launch a hotel. (Unapologetic conflict of interest: in my feature, I recommend drinks at his hotel, Drift, as one of the most fun nights out you can have in Baja Sur.) I quickly fell in love with Baja’s desert landscape, and also admired the community of savvy entrepreneurs adept at making their hotels, restaurants, bars and galleries truly memorable.

Like many of the places we love to visit, Mexico has a long history of attracting dreamers. And dreamers have what it takes to make a place special and, with hard work, to make that place the best.

PROUD PARTNERS OF BOLD MAGAZINE

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Photo by Tishan Baldeo

Paul Gallant Executive Editor

JAGUAR F-PACE

NOT EVERYONE WANTS TO BE LIKE EVERYONE.

The multi award-winning F-PACE. Dramatic flowing lines drawn from our sporting heritage. Performance-tuned chassis for responsive handling. Intelligent Driveline Dynamics and standard AWD. A dynamism you don’t see in @jaguarcanada an ordinary SUV. jaguar.ca A BREED APART © 2018 Jaguar Land Rover Canada ULC

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EDITOR’S ITINERARY

Shots of SUNSHINE If this nasty winter thing is getting to you, a voyage south might be just what you need – BY LIZ FLEMING –

CAPTIVATED BY THE CANARY ISLANDS Regent Cruises knows how to do sunshine with flair by sailing you to the starkly beautiful Canary Islands, where you’ll bask on sandy beaches and admire the snowtopped peaks of nearby volcanic mountains. Immerse yourself in the floral beauty of Madeira, stroll black sand shores in La Palma and watch whales and dolphins play near your ship. When it’s time to sail away, you’ll be enveloped in Regent’s over-the-top service, cuisine and stunning ship décor. regentcruises.com SET SAIL FOR ZANZIBAR Silversea Cruises has a gift for taking guests to some of the least known but most desirable destinations. Sail the Indian Ocean from Port Louis, Mauritius, to Zanzibar in Tanzania on an 11-day luxury adventure that will include Madagascar ports such as Ambodifotatra, Nosy Mangabe, Nosy Komba Island and Antsiranana, as well as Aldabra in the Seychelles. You’ll be guaranteed the best “bet you’ve never been there” stories at your next cocktail party. Better yet, you’ll also be able to brag about the five-star Silversea dining, service and gorgeous staterooms. silversea.com

In port to see the colours of Zanzibar.

There’s no easier way to steer toward the sun than on a cruise. We’ve chosen four sunny sailing favourites you have to try soon.

TO TAHITI AND BEYOND You can be sure of sun, sand and romance if you choose a Paul Gauguin cruise in French Polynesia. This uber-elegant cruise line makes stops on all the dream-worthy islands by day—including Tahiti, Bora Bora and Moorea—so you can sip cocktails under the palms or swim with friendly schools of stingrays and sharks (we said only the friendly ones!). By night, you’ll be coddled and spoiled with five-star dining and accommodations so elegant you’d be hard pressed to find better ashore. paulgauguincruiseline.com

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While there’s always something to do on the much-loved islands we’ve all visited in the Caribbean, there’s something undeniably exciting about a new destination.

Viking Ocean Cruises is ready to sail you to the sunny shores of the less-travelled British Virgin Islands, so you can see for yourself what attracted pirates like Blackbeard and Captain Kidd. Think sunny spots like Tortola, Virgin Gorda’s tiny paradise of coves, sea caves and rocky basins and remote Jost Van Dyke, where you can unwind on White Bay. Back on board, you’ll enjoy the entertainment, luxurious staterooms and fantastic food that Viking is famous for. vikingcruisescanada.com

Photo by Francesco Macri

THE CARIBBEAN YOU DON’T KNOW

Adiรณs winter blues!

Hello me time!

DISCOVER WHY NICARAGUA IS WORTH MISSING SOME EMAILS FOR

boldmagazine.ca

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Cover photo courtesy of Los Cabos Tourism Board

CONTRIBUTORS WINTER 2018/2019

ON THE COVER Diving right into another Los Cabos adventure.

Marlon J. Moreno CEO + Editorial Director Luis Chavez Vice President, Operations Pina Russo Chief Digital Officer Paul Gallant Executive Editor Liz Fleming Associate Editor, Travel Intel Magda de la Torre Americas Editor CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Gordon Bowness • Andrew Brudz • Waheeda Harris Ruth J Katz • Doug Wallace ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN Laura García PHOTOGRAPHY Tishan Baldeo WEB DEVELOPER Rahul Nair

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ANDREW BRUDZ Writer

GORDON BOWNESS Writer

DOUG WALLACE Writer

POWDER UP

Andrew Brudz is a Torontobased writer who has covered travel, food and goings-on for Toronto Life, Tourism Toronto and Insight: The Art of Living, amongst others. When he’s not behind his laptop, you can find him at the movies or in an antique shop. He has travelled in Mexico from Guadalajara to Bacalar. @andrewbrudz

MONTREAL’S TASTE REVOLUTION

Singaporean-Canadian Gordon Bowness is a writer, editor and producer who finds himself happily marooned on a small island in Toronto Harbour with his boyfriend, illustrator Maurice Vellekoop, and a cat named after a favourite cocktail. @gordonbowness

SOBE IT

Doug Wallace is a travel writer, contract editor and lifestyle copywriter, principal of Wallace Media and editor-publisher of TravelRight.Today. A member of the Travel Media Association of Canada and the Society of American Travel Writers, he is also an international hotel reviewer for the London Telegraph. @travelrighttoday

SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Juan Felipe Galán ADVERTISING & SALES United in Change Media Yvonne Xenidis Chief Revenue Officer 416.624.5496 yvonne@unitedinchange.com MEDIA SALES PARTNER Linda Angellotti 416.831.6069 linda@unitedinchage.com For Lifestyle and Co-Branded Partnerships, Promotions, Reprints and Sponsorships inquiries marlon@morenoco.com • luis@morenoco.com Phone: 1.416.323.7828 extension 25 PUBLIC RELATIONS AGENCY Jesson + Company jessonco.com info@jessonco.com 77 Bloor St. West, Suite 1200 Toronto, ON M5S 1M2 CORRESPONDENCE The Hudson Bay Centre 20 Bloor St. East, P.O. Box 75075 Toronto, ON M4W 3T3 BOLD ® is published bimonthly by Moreno & Company Inc. Opinions expressed in BOLD® are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the publisher or advertisers.

BOLD® does not assume liability for content.

All prices quoted are in rounded Canadian dollars, accurate at press time, unless otherwise noted. www.boldmagazine.ca

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EXTRAORDINARY STORIES “Adventure travel simply means stepping slightly off of the beaten path.

Get out of that resort and explore the city. Talk to locals, eat a local meal and see where the locals actually hang out.”

FEED THE NEED TO TRAVEL with

Dubrovnik Old Town photo by Mila Atkovska

AND DISCOVER THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND EXPERIENCES THAT MAKE A TRIP UNFORGETTABLE. TURN TO PAGE 42

CARA JOURDAN DIGITAL INFLUENCER AND AVIONER®

Stay Connected

Luxury Travel on the Go Visit BOLDMAGAZINE.ca As Canada’s premier travel and leisure magazine, BOLD is inspiration for travellers. It provides advice, encouragement and ideas for discerning globetrotters looking for those uniquely unforgettable experiences NOW.

Get Social Follow BOLD on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter for your daily dose of the world’s best high-end travel, fashion, shopping, art, culture and more.

Explore BOLD TRAVELLER City Guides At BOLDMAGAZINE.CA, City Guides are a luxury short list for where to stay, eat, drink, shop and explore in the world’s most exciting destinations.

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INSPIRATION FOR TRAVELLERS

AGENDA SEE. EXPERIENCE. HEAR. SHARE. GO.

Photo by Flo Maderebner

Heading uphill for another alpine adventure.

AGENDA

[ GREAT OUTDOORS ]

POWDER UP – BY ANDREW BRUDZ –

T

here’s no better way to make the most of winter than by hitting the slopes—and the lodge. From the Rockies to the Laurentian Mountains, Canada is home to some of the world’s most incredible ski resorts. Here are five of our favourites from coast to coast.

FAIRMONT CHATEAU WHISTLER, WHISTLER, BC British Columbia has no shortage of spectacular slopes and resorts, but the 539-room Fairmont Chateau Whistler is the peak (pun intended) of luxury. At the base of Blackcomb Mountain, it blends in with its alpine setting, and offers guests views of the mountain or the village. fairmont.com/whistler APRES SKI: Have their guides take you off the beaten path for a soothing dip at some of Whistler’s warmest lakes.

BONUS FEATURE: Trade white for green in the off-season, and hit the par 72, 18-hole Audubon-certified championship golf course.

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Panorama Mountain Resort photo courtesy of Destination BC/Kari Medig

WHETHER YOU’RE A SERIOUS SLALOMER, A SKI BUNNY OR A SPA DEVOTEE, HERE ARE FIVE MOUNTAIN RESORTS TO SCHUSS IT UP IN STYLE

ON PREVIOUS PAGE: Aerial view of Panorama Mountain Resort; exterior view of the Fairmont Chateau in Whistler, BC. ON THIS PAGE: Skiing Whistler Blackcomb; enjoying outdoor chill time at Sun Peaks Resort Grand Hotel and Conference Centre.

PANORAMA MOUNTAIN RESORT, PANORAMA, BC As the name suggests, Panorama offers some breathtaking Rocky Mountain views. Its long descents and hot slopeside pools have been attracting guests since the 1950s. Today, it is recognized as one of the best in North America. The resort even has townhouses and condos if you want to make your permanent home here. panoramaresort.com APRES SKI: Head to the charming town of Invermere on the Lake, in the Columbia Valley, for some stunning scenery and eclectic shops.

BONUS FEATURE: Every March, the resort hosts the High Notes Musical Festival, attracting some of Canada’s most exciting emerging talent in blues, country and rock.

SUN PEAKS RESORT, SUN PEAKS, BC

Sun Peaks Resort photo courtesy of Destination BC/Reuben Krabbe

With 4,270 acres of skiing spanning three peaks, this is Canada’s second largest ski resort. It’s also home to peaceful, scenic Nordic trails, some of which are even dogfriendly. In the summer months the charm doesn’t stop, with Market Days adding fresh produce, live music and art to the mountain experience. sunpeaksresort.com APRES SKI: You must treat yourself to hot, fresh mini donuts sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar at Baby D’ohs.

BONUS FEATURE: As the sun goes down and the slopes have been cleared, you’re invited to an unforgettable experience—the Alpine Fondue and Starlight Descent.

Savour the chef-prepared three-course Swiss-style fondue dinner, before descending down the slopes in the moonlight.

LE GRAND LODGE, MONT-TREMBLANT, QC Mont-Tremblant combines the charm of a lively Quebec village—street performers and all—with almost 100 ski trails. La Grand Lodge, nestled on Lac Ouimet, is a log-cabin style hotel with a picturesque view all year long. Rooms, both stylish and cozy, make it feel like your nestled in the canopy. legrandlodge.com APRES SKI: Refuel at Chez Borivage, serving fine Quebec fare, or head to the Whisky Bar for a night cap, in the

company of the resident chansonnier.

BONUS FEATURE: While the slopes here don’t see as much annual snowfall as their west-coast counterparts, Mont-Tremblant is home to 1,000 snow guns that keep the powder coming.

SUNSHINE MOUNTAIN LODGE, BANFF, AB Stay 2,200 metres above sea level with 360-degree views of the iconic Canadian Rockies. Located within Banff National Park (Canada’s first national park and part of a UNESCO World Heritage site), Sunshine Mountain Lodge boasts the area’s largest hot tub and the slopes are right outside the door. At night, stare at an incredible starry sky like you’ve never seen before. sunshinemountainlodge.com APRES SKI: Head for a therapeutic hot stone massage at the Verde Day Spa. BONUS FEATURE: Take the Standish Chairlift to the viewing deck more than 2,400 metres up for an unparalleled view of Banff, Lake Louise and pristine alpine lakes.

boldmagazine.ca

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AGENDA

[ CULTURE ]

ON THIS PAGE: Demonstrating the movable walls at London’s Sir John Soane Museum.

OPPOSITE PAGE: An exhibit at Berlin’s Museum of Things; the Jantar Mantar Complex in Jaipur, India; a chestnut-crushing clog at Toronto’s Bata Shoe Museum.

PECULIAR and

IMPASSIONED WITH THEIR SINGULAR COLLECTIONS AND SOMETIMES ECCENTRIC OWNERS, NICHE MUSEUMS HAVE THE POWER TO SURPRISE AND THRILL US – BY RUTH J. KATZ –

22 boldmagazine.ca

Photo courtesy of the Sir John Soane Museum

W

hen I made my first trip to Bangkok in 2014, I had a singularly knowledgeable guide, improbably named Diamond, and he was, indeed, a jewel. On our last day together, as we sped back to my hotel, I spied a building with a sign indicating it was the Bangkok Seashell Museum.

“Oh, Diamond, why didn’t we visit that museum?” I asked.

With his eyes popping out of his head in disbelief, he explained that it is hardly on anyone’s top-10 list. But for me, it would have been my first or second stop—temples can wait! Alas, I had no more time, and so the Bangkok Seashell Museum slipped onto a mental list of places I hoped to visit one day. As luck would have it, when I was leaving Thailand last year, my flight was cancelled and so, with extra time on my hands, I finally saw the Seashell Museum. And it did not disappoint.

I love wacky, oddball museums. In London alone, I have sat for hours in The Hunterian (which reopens to the public in 2021), a collection of anatomical specimens, watching videos of spinal and brain surgeries; have shimmied through the narrow slivers of hallways in the Sir John Soane’s Museum, a former home chockablock with busts, statuary and ornamental tchotchkes; have marvelled at some of the more than 12,000 items in the Museum of Brands, Packaging and Advertising, where you can see the evolution of the packaging of Persil detergent or Heinz turtle soup or Head & Shoulders shampoo.

Herewith a few more favourites that I have found fascinating.

Also in Thailand, let me recommend the Hall of Opium Museum in Chiang Saen, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, on the Opium Trail. Through exhibitions, multimedia presentations and even an artificial poppy field, the museum strives to educate the public about the opium wars, drug smuggling, the development of morphine, government efforts to stem the tide of the scourge, the drug’s sundry paraphernalia and much more. There is even a diorama of an opium den. Most staggering is the nearly 140-metre, tunnel-like entryway—shadowy, foreboding, eerie—that sets a mood, perhaps of what life might be like addicted to heroin. maefahluang.org More an educational playground than a museum (and also a UNESCO World Heritage site), the Jantar Mantar (“calculating instrument”) observatory in Jaipur, India, is home to 19 immense (the sundial has a diameter of more than eight metres) astronomical instruments. Constructed from stone and marble, and spread out over acres, the instruments are

Museum of Things photo courtesy of The Museum of Things; Jantar Mantar photo by Dinesh Bareja; clogs photo courtesy of the Bata Shoe Museum

fascinating. Among other things, they variously measure time, calculate longitude and latitude of celestial bodies, track the location of major stars as the Earth orbits them and determine celestial altitudes. One instrument even calculates the Hindu calendar and is used but once each year. This is one (and the best preserved) of five observatories built in the early 18 th century by Rajput King Sawai Jai Singh. jantarmantar.org “The Museum of Things” is a rough translation of Berlin’s Werkbundarchiv Museum der Dinge, a paean to “stuff.” The museum’s collections chronicle product culture through the 20th and 21st centuries, as mass production and industrial manufacturing blossomed. The tall vitrines house all manner of merchandise—variously grouped by colour, function, period, country of origin, whatever. The museum offers a short film, interesting and edifying, on the celebrated double-bladed Berlin key.

There is also a fascinating replica of a 1920s Frankfurt kitchen.

Revolving exhibits are also mounted, and one might find one chronicling the history of eroticism, or a display featuring many odd-looking implements with mysterious purposes; the public is invited to speculate as to their functions. museumderdinge.de Prepare to step back in time to the 18th and 19th centuries at the Dennis Severs’ House in Spitalfields, in the eastern outreaches of London. Severs was an American who bought and slowly renovated a dilapidated 10-room, terraced home. He decorated it to reflect how it would have been furnished if it had been inhabited by a fictional family named Jervis (presumably, originally Gervais), who were prosperous, Huguenot silk weavers. The rooms in the Georgian home form time-capsule tableaux of family life, with various periods reflected in the décor. Severs wanted visitors to feel that the residents had just left, so touching details dot the interior landscape of this still-life drama. dennissevershouse.co.uk Although it is positioned as a children’s museum, adults will be likewise charmed by the World of Discoveries (Museu Interativo & Parque Tematico) in Porto, Portugal. Lest you forget that before Britannia ruled the waves, the Portuguese planted their flag all around the globe—at this museum, period-costumed and multilingual interpreters (Henry the Navigator, for example) will remind you, expanding upon the multi-dimensional exhibits, stunning miniature replicas of galleons, among the mix. The museum is a bit of a theme park, too: Hop into a self-propelled skiff, as you explore the other half of the museum by boat—a trip around the world with dioramas that will excite and educate. worldofdiscoveries.com I would also recommend the Robert Wan Pearl Museum in Papeete, French Polynesia; the Coral and Cameo Museum in Torre del Greco, Italy, in the Liceo Artistico Degni (the School of Arts); the amazing Pharmacy Museum (Deutsches Apotheken-Museum), located in the Heidelberg Castle, Germany; the shrine to threedimensional embroidery in the private (accessible) museum of the Kohinoor Jewellers in Agra; and, of course, the very special Bata Shoe Museum, right in Toronto’s backyard. boldmagazine.ca

23

AGENDA [ TRAVEL TWO WAYS ]

BOHEMIAN SANTIAGO

TWO VERY DIFFERENT NEIGHBOURHOODS IN TWO CHILEAN CITIES TAKE VISITORS INTO THE HEART AND MIND OF THE COUNTRY’S MOST FAMOUS POET

SANTIAGO’S BARRIO BELLAVISTA A

THIS PAGE FROM TOP: Montecarmelo Cultural Centre; Pablo Neruda and his third wife Matilde Urrutia; murals in Santiago’s Barrio Bellavista; Neruda’s poetry on a wall in La Chascona.

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half-hour walk from Santiago’s downtown brings you to the edge of Barrio Bellavista. This boho quarter offers a multitude of temptations for culture seekers: bold graffiti, quirky boutiques and hip restaurants offering endless options to taste Chilean wine in sight of street-food vendors selling empanadas. During the day it’s a laid-back place for long lunches, where fashionable ladies happily exchange gossip and students crowd cafés between classes. I’m fascinated by the political street art murals as well as the handmade arts and crafts on the sidewalks along Calle Pío Nono. The district is a place to walk slowly to soak up its mix of historic and contemporary architecture, highlighted by the movements of the sun. The faint scent of the flowering jacaranda trees is in the air, and as I choose a shaded sidewalk patio table to sip a glass of Carménère and contemplate what to choose from the lengthy number of arts events happening in the neighbourhood’s Centro Cultural Montecarmelo.

As the sun goes down, street guitarists sing for their supper, as clusters of pedestrians consider their happy-hour options.

Raucous groups of college students crowd into Krossbar Craft Brewery, recounting last night’s exploits, while office workers debate politics over pisco sour cocktails at one of the cafés or bars in the upscale open-air complex Patio Bellavista.

Barrio Bellavista was where beloved poet and Nobel Prize winner Pablo Neruda lived between 1955 and 1973, after his second return from exile. This was his cherished hideaway, a place to avoid the watchful eye of the ruling class who suspected he was a revolutionary, and where he could join with the cultural intelligentsia to discuss the politics of the time.

La Chascona, a mid-century home, now museum, was built in 1953 for his then-secret-lover Matilde Urrutia, who would eventually become his third wife. The museum, its exterior painted vivid blue, attracts a steady stream of visitors who want to soak in the environment that made Neruda one of the 20 th century’s best-known writers.

La Chascona’s collection of first-edition books by Neruda are treasured by Chileans, as are the photographs, which show Neruda’s travels as a Chilean diplomat. But it’s the relationship between Neruda and Urrutia that’s palpable here: the name of the house was Neruda’s nickname for his lover, and Urrutia’s portrait, painted by friend Diego Rivera, has a hidden profile of Neruda in the artwork, a nod to their secret relationship. Even though as a visitor I’m here to look at items of a life and a relationship, it’s the intangible romance I sense, a sensual refuge within the whirl of the big city.

As Neruda wrote in One Hundred Love Sonnets, reflecting on his relationship with Urrutia, we can see La Chascona: “Here are the bread, the wine, the table, the house. A man’s needs, a woman’s, and a life’s.”

Cultural Centre photo by Claudio Ramirez; archival photo courtesy of Neruda Foundation; chef mural photo by JeremyRichards/Shutterstock; poetry mural photo by Keith Ewing

BY WAHEEDA HARRIS

EMERGING VALPARAÍSO VALPARAÍSO’S CERRO BELLAVISTA

THIS PAGE FROM TOP: Valparaíso’s Chilean Navy Headquarters; Valparaíso’s Art District; one of the oldest funicular railway cars in the world; the urban landscape of Valparaíso.

W

Navy Headquarters photo by ymgerman/Shutterstock; Art District photo by Chris Goldberg; funicular photo by Serjio74/Shutterstock

hile Santiago’s Barrio Bellavista has been a long-standing hotspot, the city of Valparaíso’s similarly named Cerro Bellavista, a working-class hillside neighbourhood, offers a completely different perspective on Chilean culture. But something ties the two places together: Cerro Bellavista also became an artistic refuge for Neruda.

Located in Chile’s second largest city and busiest port, Valparaíso’s economy took a hit in the 20th century; real estate was affordable when Neruda came to choose his house in an industrial city that was in decline. These days, the cityscape reflects a younger generation’s desire to use the arts and tourism to reinvent the place.

Take the Concepción Funicular to access Cerro Bellavista, since the transportation helps unveil the city’s history. Since 1883, funiculars have been installed between the narrow buildings to make it easier for residents and visitors to navigate the historic quarters. The neighbourhood is about a half hour from the city’s centre, and rewards visitors with new boutique hotels and trendy restaurants. Neruda’s house is not the only tourist lure.

Central meeting place Plaza Aníbal Pinto is a perfect place to people watch, as well as the starting point for Valpo Street Art Tours, three-hour walking tours that focus on the evolving art gallery, not hidden in alleys but found on low-rise buildings, grocery stores and row houses. The tour takes me to the Open Air Museum of Valparaíso, a series of 20 murals inaugurated in 1992, created by commissioned street artists. Small plaques describe the art and artists like a traditional gallery, but this museum stretches several blocks. The hillside district has also been the focus of the Valparaíso Foundation, which has set its sights on restoring and reclaiming dilapidated buildings in the hopes of attracting artists to live here. The efforts have paid off. The neighbourhood has become populated by artsy types, wanting to retrace Neruda’s steps. Neruda would be pleased.

At the top of Cerro Bellavista is La Sebastiana, a home Neruda purchased with two friends so he could escape the pressures of living in Santiago. Unlike the busy environment of Barrio Bellavista, Cerro Bellavista in Neruda’s time was a quiet residential neighbourhood.

Neruda took three years to design and decorate the third and fourth floors of La Sebastiana’s tower. Unlike La Chascona, this uncluttered home was for the now married Neruda and Urrutia, where they could entertain friends and Neruda could indulge in views of the Pacific Ocean while he wrote. The isolated environment fueled one of his last books, The Sea and the Bells, where the sounds of the neighbourhood—sea, ships, birds—fed his imagination.

Celebrating his official move here 1961, Neruda was inspired to write a poem “La Sebastiana.” Even though the home hasn’t had a resident since 1973 when Neruda died, La Sebastiana remains intact, his neighbours proud to protect the home of their literary hero. Neruda wrote about this home: “I establish the house/ I made it first of air/ then I raised the flag in the air/ and I left it hanged/ from the open air/ from the star/ from the light and from the darkness….” boldmagazine.ca

25

AGENDA [ STAY ]

“S

FROM PARADISE WITH LOVE One of the most storied properties in the Caribbean, The Four Seasons’ Ocean Club has the views to prove it – BY RUTH J. KATZ –

Photos courtesy of the Four Seasons Ocean Club

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haken, not stirred,” is the legendary James Bond admonition to countless cinematic barkeeps across decades. As I sat at the Martini Bar in the lobby of the elegant Ocean Club, Four Seasons Resort, Bahamas, I, too, uttered those words to Keith Cash, the almost-as-renowned barman, who has been shaking, stirring, mixing and mastering serious nectars for more than 32 years at the resort.

After a scene from Casino Royale was shot on these very grounds, Cash created the Vesper Martini, named for Bond’s (in that film, Daniel Craig) inamorata. Cash revealed that he had another martini that might tickle my senses: A chocolate martini… who could resist? With the rim of the glass coated in dark chocolate and smothered with chocolate-chip shavings, the sweet confection oozed even more cacao and delivered a heady, postprandial punch.

Craig was not the only Bond to find the Bahamas welcoming. In fact, three other 007 films were committed to celluloid here: Sean Connery plied his acting chops in both Thunderball and Never Say Never Again; and Roger Moore in The Spy who Loved Me. Connery loved the Bahamas so much, he bought property here. And there is a lot of “here” to love.

The Commonwealth of the Bahamas comprises some 700 islands, islets and cays (about three dozen are inhabited), occupying almost 14,000 square kilometres in the Atlantic, with New Providence Island (Nassau is its capital), among the most popular; Paradise Island (a mere one-mile wide, about five miles long), where the Ocean Club is located, is its tiny neighbour.

Connery’s love of the area is matched by that of the Four Seasons staff at the Ocean Club; so devoted to the resort are the employees, that Cash’s tenure is typical: countless employees have logged in decades at the hotel, including tennis pro Leo Rolle, who has coached some mighty serious A-listers on his six tennis courts, and who has “held court” for more than 50 years at the property.

Concierge Bridgette Poitier has been here about a dozen years, and she’s one of the youngsters. (Poitier is a wellknown name in the Bahamas—actor Sidney Poitier hails from Cat Island and the bridge linking Paradise Island to New Providence is named for him.)

The resort, set on 14 lush, landscaped hectares, is one of the most stunning among the many I have visited. There are just over 100 rooms in the heart of the hotel, decorated with modern, tropical-influenced elegance, surrounding the Huntington Court, named for A&P supermarket heir, Huntington Hartford II. He bought the island (yes, the entire island) in 1959 from a Swedish industrialist, who had named it Hog Island. Hartford renamed the cay and thus Paradise was born. He cemented his vision when he built a tropical hideaway, the Four Season’s precursor.

Countless jet-setting swells of the era, from Zsa Zsa Gabor to Benny Goodman, attended the opening bash. Fireworks for the event were imported from France.

In addition to the main hotel chambers, there are hotel suites nestled into the verdant flora, including two- to four-bedroom private cottages and villas. A unique resort calling card: Hartford purchased the remains of a French Augustinian monastery, originally bought by William Randolph Hearst in the 1920s, and thence warehoused. This stately cloister is the jewel of the terraced Versailles Gardens, accented with koi and lily ponds and fountains, amidst comely marble statuary. I was particularly fortunate while visiting to sneak a peek of a magnificently decorated tent erected for a wedding. I am guessing that the toothsome-looking fare that the wedding guests feasted on was equally delicious, as Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten has created the menu for Dune, the Ocean Club’s sea-view eatery. The next morning, I espied the wedding brunch being set up oceanside, in another jaw-dropping setting.

You will be tempted to stay entirely cosseted at the resort by the gracious staff (the golf course and the spa both beckon and there is also a charming Kids 4 All Seasons clubhouse and program). But do venture into town at least once (cruise ships make Nassau a regular stop), if only to check out the shopping and sites.

The Pompey Museum of Slavery & Emancipation at Vendue House offers a seminal education. Named for a slave from Exuma Island, the museum exhibits include photographs, artifacts and a look into the tragic history of slavery. (Vendue is French for “sold” and it is significant to note that this site functioned as the auction block—or bourse—for the sale of various commodities—including slaves.) The National Art Gallery of the Bahamas, located in a refurbished, two-story 1860s villa, highlights the work of native sons—sculptors, painters and photographers, among other exhibits. Another destination should be John Watling’s Distillery, named for a notorious pirate.

While the tour is very short and provides for a mere taste of the company’s rums, the Four Seasons is now designing a rum tour for guests only, with guided tastings back on-site, highlighting the J.A.B. luxury rum, as well as lessons on infusing rum with diverse flavours. Cash and I put together a fruity mixture that needed 24 hours to marinate—and the results, the next day, were sensational.

Another de rigueur visit should be to the funky, unusual Graycliff Hotel, which maintains a chocolatier and a cigar factory. Tours are available, as well as hands-on classes. Graycliff houses the island’s largest wine cellar and there are tastings and pairings classes. The Ocean Club also arranges countless singular experiences, including a visit with artist Jane Waterous, whose striking canvases adorn the hotel’s main salons. I first saw the work of this extraordinarily gifted painter (without knowing who she was), in New York City two years ago and loved her Gatherings series so much I took pictures of her paintings. Little did I know that I would meet her. Private pop-up evenings at her studio will be a Four Seasons exclusive.

Paradise Island is well-named, indeed. But the resort itself takes the word up a notch to the lofty, celestial heavens.

Rooms from US$875/night. bahamas.com; nassauparadiseisland. com; fourseasons.com/oceanclub

DID YOU KNOW? The Bahamas has a rich pirate history, with the Golden Age of Piracy peaking at the turn of the 18th century. Infamous swashbucklers include Henry Avery, Benjamin Hornigold and Edward Teach.

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27

AGENDA

[ DINE ]

MONTREAL’S

TASTE REVOLUTION ALTHOUGH THE FRENCH INFLUENCE REMAINS, LA BELLE PROVINCE’S REBELLIOUS STREAK RUNS THROUGH ITS CHEFS’ IMAGINATIONS

Chef Antonin Mousseau-Rivard (left) leads a culinary revolution.

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“Welcome to my home.” I’m being shown around

Montreal’s bustling Jean-Talon Market by Chef Mathieu Cloutier, who won the national Gold Medal Plate cooking competition 10 years ago at the tender age of 30. Cloutier’s still-boyish face is all smiles as he greets the owners of Mont-Rouge Farms. Their stall is one of Cloutier’s go-to spots for fresh vegetables. It’s the end of the season and the air smells sweet and woodsy. The stall is bursting with apples, green tomatoes and pumpkins of all kinds.

“Whenever I see their tomatoes and squash,” says Cloutier, who grew up in a small town in the Eastern Townships not far from Mont-Rouge, “I think of home.”

Montreal’s food scene has emerged as one of the hottest on the planet. The late celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain was just one in a growing list of devotees singing the city’s praises. Famed restaurants like Toqué, Au Pied de Cochon and Joe Beef are meccas for foodies the world over. Cloutier’s pride of place is key to understanding how this came to be.

At Jean-Talon, the largest outdoor market in North America, the variety and quality of foodstuffs is astonishing. Pride of place extends to every corner of Quebec: honey wine from the Laurentians, raw milk cheese from Charlevoix, smoked arctic char from Lake St. Pierre, organic beef from Montérégie…. Nearly every community is represented: Indigenous, Irish, Italian, Jewish, Vietnamese, Lebanese, Haitian and many more.

Looming over everything is the great cultural contribution of France: its haute cuisine. But Québécois cuisine should not be seen as a knock-off, an arriviste imitation of the grand French tradition with, say, New World produce being substituted for Old. Years ago, that might have been the case. Today, however, something bold and novel is going on.

“I have my French classic training but I would never define my

Antonin Mousseau-Rivard photo by Frédérique Ménard-Aubin-Montreal en Lumière

– BY GORDON BOWNESS –

kitchen as French,” says chef Antonin MousseauRivard, co-owner of Le Mousso, a chic restaurant in Montreal’s gay village known for its inventive menu.

Burly and tattooed, Mousseau-Rivard is typical of a new generation of Montreal restaurateurs: brash iconoclasts happy to experiment in their kitchens… as long as the results deliver on taste.

“Don’t tell me something has to be a certain way,” says Mousseau-Rivard. “There is nothing that is meant to be; everything is possible.”

Mousseau-Rivard comes by his rebelliousness honestly. He’s the grandson of painter and sculptor Jean-Paul Mousseau, a signatory to the artistic manifesto known as Refus Global. Little known outside Quebec, the 1948 manifesto is celebrated inside the province as an early declaration of cultural independence, one of the first shots fired in the Quiet Revolution.

A very brief history lesson: Quebec in the 1960s, the Quiet Revolution a misnomer. A thundering sea change. The province’s predominantly working-class Francophone majority awakes.

They shoulder aside the Catholic Church, Anglo elites and a political system designed to keep them subservient. The Québécois demand to be masters in their own house. They succeed.

The Quiet Revolution transforms every strata of Quebec society. You hear its echoes in the lusty independence displayed by the current crop of Montreal chefs.

As an early catalyst for the Quiet Revolution, the Refus Global has a strong personal resonance for Mousseau-Rivard. This wonderfully anarchic, uncompromising screed offers a withering critique of the old power structures and poetic praise of Quebec’s common folk. One line in particular seems very germane to the subject at hand: “The magical harvest magically reaped from the unknown lies ready in the field.” Mousseau-Rivard calls the restaurant Le Mousso his manifesto. Not surprisingly, his grandfather’s vivid, abstract works are displayed prominently in the restaurant.

After touring Jean-Talon, Cloutier retreats to his charming restaurant, Kitchen Galerie, located just a block away from the market. He serves up a

MONTREAL GOURMET ESSENTIALS Housed in a recently converted railway factory, history is unavoidable at the popular eastend restaurant Hoogan et Beaufort.

Chef Marc-André Jetté crafts his own unique flavour by cooking the freshest of ingredients in a woodfired oven located in the middle of this towering light-filled space.

Seafood is a specialty; the bread is to die for. hooganetbeaufort.com

delicious meal that includes seared foie gras with oysters, in-house smoked salmon with popcorn mousse, and suckling pig served with leak tombé and, not surprisingly, two kinds of squash (butternut and Hubbard).

We are joined by Jean-Pierre Curtat, executive chef of Casino de Montréal. With more than 25 years’ experience, five of them heading the kitchen of the Délégation générale du Québec in Paris, Curtat is uniquely situated to compare the cuisines of France and Quebec.

“Tradition is strong in France, acquired over all these centuries,” says Curtat. “But there’s a downside. When you want to step out of the tradition, it’s very difficult.

In Quebec, it’s free. We have the capacity to integrate both cultures. We have this strong culture of taste and knowledge, and this culture of freedom at the same time.”

Quality, variety, tradition, freedom… in Montreal, these make for a delectable combination. Vive la cuisine libre.

Dinner at Le Mousso is a guaranteed good night out.

Unusual flavour combinations, immaculate plating designs and chefs parading en masse from the open kitchen to deliver the goods animate a space that is intimate yet convivial, stylish yet relaxed.

It’s as if co-owner and founding chef Antonin Mousseau-Rivard has invited you to his childhood home to debate politics and art and food with his very creative family. lemousso.com Brave the blue-lit cacophony of video slot machines clanging away at the Casino de Montréal to experience a calm oasis of sophistication. Atelier Joël Robuchon, part of a world-wide gastronomic empire with more than 30 Michelin stars, offers one of the most luxurious dining experiences in the city. Housed in the former Quebec pavilion from Expo ’67, this pinnacle of French cuisine is also a showcase for Quebec’s locally-produced foodstuffs. joel-robuchon.com

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AGENDA [ FOOD DIARIES ]

Going for

the Gusto

With a recent move to L.A., Top Chef Canada judge JANET ZUCCARINI is demonstrating her global ambitions

I

catch up with Janet Zuccarini—the Top Chef Canada judge behind Toronto’s Trattoria Nervosa, Gusto 101 and 501, PAI Northern Thai Kitchen, Kiin, Same Same and Chubby’s Jamaican Kitchen—on her way to her tennis game. That’s how she starts most of her days, if she’s not hiking or doing yoga. It’s a very California lifestyle, which is exactly what Zuccarini was after when she decided to split her time between her hometown of Toronto and L.A. “I came down to check things out and within 24 hours I fell in love with the city and decided then and there I’d live here for part of the year and open up a restaurant here.” She lives in Venice, just a few blocks from Felix, the farm-to-table restaurant she opened there, which was named the Best New Restaurant in America by Esquire magazine and was a finalist for a James Beard Award. By next year, she expects to have more than 700 employees across all her businesses. “I feel I’m just getting warmed up.”

An avid traveller, she moved to Italy on her own at age 18, living there for eight years, before living in Southeast Asia for a while.—PAUL GALLANT

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1. Nervosa in Yorkville was my first restaurant, which I opened in 1996. It’s considered a stalwart in that neighbourhood. The location was so important. It’s half the size of Gusto, with a tiny little kitchen, but we do up to a 1,000 people a day. It’s unbelievable. Convincing staff to work there—it’s a super hard kitchen, cramped and hot, like a New York City restaurant. I try to treat my people very well.

2. Those are some of the dishes from our catering company, which is part of Gusto 101, Italian casual. We were just launching and had invited some influencers and press to see what we were doing. Catering is a very different business for me.

I am used to bricks and mortar, where people order off a menu.

But it made sense to become our own supplier—baking our own bread, making pasta and gelato. I’m a bit of a burger fanatic, so I love that and the kale salad. People say I’m the first person to bring the kale salad to Toronto. We sell 50,000 servings of that kale salad a year. I never get tired of it.

3. Last summer I travelled for three weeks around Israel with one of my best friends, Jeronimo, who is originally from Argentina. We were there for a friend’s wedding, so we rented a car and travelled all around. That’s Mount Masada, where we watched the sunrise. It’s a two-hour climb, but the painful part is getting up at 4am. I fell in love with the Middle Eastern food, which is having a moment.

They have such wonderful produce they can grow, so the food just bursts with flavour.

4. At Felix, there’s a lot of focus on the pasta, which is all handmade. It’s hyperlocal, hyperseasonal. Felix is more chef-driven, more of a destination restaurant.

We’ve had tremendous press and accolades. We get 300 phone calls a day—it’s a tough restaurant to get into.

5. Although we did not take the James Beard Award home, we were one of five finalists for best new restaurant in America—we’ll take that. All the leadership team came to Chicago, it was a black-tie event, so we made it a real celebration.

I’m standing facing our Felix chef Evan Funke. A restaurant in Chicago? Not now. We’re currently focusing on New York City and opening a Felix in Toronto.

6. As part of Gusto Gives Back, one of our programs is Mini Chef. We work with different schools twice a year to bring children to our commissary and catering kitchen for a few weeks. We educate on nutrition and give cooking classes.

7. When I purchased the building for Gusto 101, it was a dilapidated 1940s autobody shop. I had to dig down a basement, and put in this retractable roof. I found that vintage Goodyear sign on eBay. We have a young clientele there, it’s a neighbourhood restaurant that does a high volume. I try to keep up on what people want to see on the menu.

All sustainable fish, organic whenever possible. I just signed a deal to serve organic chicken at a price point I needed it to be. boldmagazine.ca

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STYLE [ DRINK ]

MIXED

WITH

CLARITY

With a clean-tasting spirit like vodka, you can add the flavours to take you where you want to go

A

s bar manager at Toronto’s Baro, and a teacher at BartenderOne Bartending School, Wes Galloway loved to educate drinkers about cocktails and what makes them fantastic. At his home test kitchen, he’s got 200 bottles of ingredients ready for his “mad scientist lab.” Now brand ambassador for Crystal Skull vodka, he’s become something of a convert from dark to light spirits.

“Vodka is ultimately about purity, but sometimes in our market, it can be a commodity product where makers cut corners,” says Galloway, who has created hundreds of cocktails. There are basically two different vodka schools: Scandinavian and Eastern European. “Scandinavian vodkas tend to have a little bit more of a silkier mouth feel, sometimes a hint of sweetness, while Eastern European vodkas tend to be a bit thinner, crisper and water-like,” says Galloway. “It depends on the base grain you use and the distillation process, who’s making the cuts on the heads and the tails.” (That’s separating out the lower-quality, less pure parts of the distilled liquid.)

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Tasting a beverage neat gives a smart drinker a better sense of the taste of the base spirit. But then you want to get creative about mixology. Amaro was all the rage for a while, as were low-alcohol cocktails. But here’s a recipe Galloway that will help you escape winter—at least until you’re able to hop on a flight south.

I’ll Go Anywhere

1 ½ oz Crystal Head vodka ½ oz orgeat (almond) syrup ½ oz ginger syrup* ¾ oz real passionfruit juice ½ oz fresh lime juice Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice and shake well. Strain over fresh ice into a double Old Fashioned glass.

Garnish by placing a lime wheel inside the drink. * Simmer one cup fresh chopped ginger in two cups of water for five minutes. Add two cups organic sugar and stir until incorporated.

Let ginger steep as syrup cools, then bottle and refrigerate.

STYLE

[ LOCAL EXPERT ]

MAVERICK MUMBAI

IN ONE OF THE WORLD’S BRASHEST AND C L A M O R O U S C I T I E S , FA S H I O N D E S I G N E R NIMISH SHAH HAS THE LOWDOWN ON W H AT ’ S C H I C A N D A R T S Y An alumnus of the prestigious London College of Fashion, Nimish Shah launched his Mumbai-based clothing label Shift in 2011, a brand focused on classic looks and sustainable materials, after working at luxury powerhouses like Burberry and Chloé. His minimalist and sometimes whimsical creations caught the attention of entrepreneur Anand S. Ahuja, who in September appointed Shah creative director of the streetwear brand Bhaane. Though it’s an exciting opportunity for the young designer, there’s one catch—Shah will have to spend most of his time in New Delhi, where Bhaane is based, far away from his hometown of Mumbai. But that hasn’t dampened his passion for, or insider knowledge of, Mumbai. shift-india.com; bhaane.com —PAUL GALLANT AT T R A C T I O N Find a window seat in the Sea Lounge tea room at the Taj Mahal Palace, which overlooks the Gateway of India monument and the boat dock. You can see the best of the city without having to step into the filth.

The Taj itself is an uber deluxe way to start a tour of the city, giving you a sense of the colonial era and what it was like in that time.

You don’t want to rough it out on your first day. tajhotels.com H OT E L So many of the hotels in Mumbai can be very business-like compared to other cities. If the Taj Mahal Palace doesn’t fit your budget, try Abode, a luxury boutique bed and breakfast in the same neighbourhood, Colaba. It’s very DIY with an Anglo-India décor, and well-chosen vintage furniture. There are only 20 rooms, so it’s usually booked well in advance. abodeboutiquehotels.com C A S UA L F O O D There’s a Sequel Bistro and Juice Bar in both Colaba and Bandra. It’s a health-conscious vegan restaurant, full-on hipster central with buckwheat toast. It’s a bit Scandinavian in its décor, but very owner’s taste-driven. The owner is Parsi and Parsi restaurateurs are known to be oblivious to what customers want to eat; you get what they want to serve you. You can see the Parsi influence, but it’s also very international—you could be in Berlin or Copenhagen.

FINE DINING The latest hot place is Masque, the closest to a Michelin-star restaurant. They have a 10-course chef’s tasting menu. They have a great bar and a fantastic team. It’s a great spot for date nights and special events.

There’s not a particular cuisine—it’s very modern, innovative bistro gastronomy using organic food ingredients. They have Le

Corbusier furniture and a massive sculpture in the middle of the room. masquerestaurant.com C O C K TA I L S Slink & Bardot is the most warm and energized bar. A dark, utilitarian boudoir.

You’ll see tropical wallpaper, but then tables are set up canteen-style. The signature cocktails are the best, hands down, and they have fantastic gin options. They have French food but aren’t known for it.You only see good looking people there, even though it’s in Guard Worli, the most stinking fisherman’s village in the city. facebook.com/pg/slinkandbardot CULTURAL HAPPENINGS Mumbai has become a hotspot for pop-up cultural events. On Thursdays, in the Mumbai Arts District, people who enjoy art will go gallery-hopping at galleries like Chatterjee & Lal, Gallery Maskara, Project 88 and Jhaveri Contemporary. The beauty is that all these priceless gems are filed away in a middleclass neighbourhood, pristine white-box galleries right in the hustle and bustle. mumbaigalleryweekend.com SHOPPING Bungalow 8 has been around for more than a decade, and is located inside the Wankhede cricket stadium, so you get a glimpse of the grounds when you visit. It sells all kinds of hip bohemian chic, home décor and fashion, Indian designers made in India. bungaloweight.com D AY T R I P Alibag is a little island you can take a ferry to, from the Gateway of India. It’s like the Hamptons for Bombay, something of a deluxe getaway with a historic fort and nice beaches. People will make their way out for the long weekend. There are some bed and breakfasts if you’re able to stay the night. boldmagazine.ca

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STYLE [ WEEKENDER ]

SOBEIT

The view of South Beach from a balcony at the Marriott Stanton South Beach.

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Things get a little quiet at the tail end of South Beach—and that’s just the way everyone likes it – BY DOUG WALLACE –

Photos courtesy of the Stanton South Beach Hotel boldmagazine.ca

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STYLE [ WEEKENDER ]

T

ucked away near the bottom of Miami’s fabled Ocean Drive, past the pastel-painted strip of Art Deco hotels and their raucous sidewalk eateries, sits SoFi, the soothing South Beach neighbourhood south of 5th Street. Here, a quaint and quiet combo of condos and small resorts delivers a peaceful beach vibe, one that’s happily echoed by the newly renovated Marriott Stanton South Beach.

A retro cottage feel greets me in the lobby: tons of blonde wood punctuated by colourful, quirky artwork, low-slung leather sofas, terrazzo flooring, mid-century-style wooden sideboards propping up cool lamps.

This beach cottage character continues up in my room, with its creamy white walls, even more wood and herringbone-patterned ceramic floors.

A leather headboard, curved workstation, velvet armchair and ample bathroom complete this comfort zone. Everything is modern and airy, right down to the little vermilion chairs on the balcony.

But I didn’t come to Miami to sit in a hotel room. Which way to the beach?

Wandering outside, I’m struck again by how SoFi is markedly different from the South Beach environment immediately north of it, the mix of residents and tourists generating a relaxing, slightly Boho experience.

I quickly invent a game called “Spot the local.” Those ladies jogging in the sand? Tourists. The man longboarding down the street with a land paddle? Local. Anybody on the sidewalk with their shirt off? Tourist. The kite-surfer? Local. Anybody talking to themselves? Local. At sunrise yoga on the beach, my game is easy: The locals all have yoga mats and the rest of us, just towels.

Later by the little oceanfront path, I’m secretly pleased when a passerby asks me a question in Spanish, to which I respond with a stunned expression before admitting I don’t speak it. I look like I live here, I think, beaming inside. “Could I live here?” is the next question.

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The affirmative answer comes at lunchtime as I tuck into first the carnitas, then a platter of ribs with grilled spring onions and fresh avocado at Lolo’s Surf Cantina, the Stanton’s new Baja-inspired parkside café, where the mezcal margaritas have me at “Hola.” Sure I could live here, but I’d have to get bigger pants. This certainty is underlined later on at Azabu Miami Beach, the resort’s Zen, izakaya-style restaurant, complete with a wall of Japanese whisky. I rethink my Snowbird plans.

The fact that SoFi is within walking distance of a lot of good food— dozens of restaurants and bars, including the iconic News Cafe, the legendary Joe’s Stone Crab, celebrity chef Justin Smillie’s Upmarket and more—gives the location an even greater edge. I save a fortune in cabs by not ever having to jump in one. My beach-chic retreat in my future new neighbourhood suits me just fine.

Do I feel guilty for not going any higher than 17th Street the entire time?

Not even a little bit.

WHEN YOU GO Spend the extra US$28 for a value-added package that nets you faster Internet, welcome margaritas, free bottles of water, beach chairs, bike rentals and one fitness class per day—things like cardio kickboxing, high intensity interval training and mat Pilates. Rooms from US$315/night. stantonsobe.com

OPPOSITE PAGE: Arrival at the Stanton; the newly renovated lobby.

ON THIS PAGE: Spending some time by the pool; art attracts.

SOBE MUST-DOS GO FOR A PADDLE Sure, you’ve been in the water, but also consider experiencing South Beach on the water with a kayak or paddleboard adventure. Family-owned South Beach Kayak can set you up for a solo paddle or a guided group tour drifting past the multimillion-dollar homes on the Sunset Islands. southbeachkayak.com HOP ON A BIKE Daily guided bike and Segway tours at Bike and Roll take you past all the South Beach sights, including noteworthy Art Deco buildings, oceanfront pathways, Lincoln Road Mall, the Ocean Drive Strip and more. Road bikes, cruisers, tandems, kids’ bikes—they will kit you out. bikeandroll.com/miami STRETCH IT OUT Free sunrise and sunset yoga classes on the beach at 3 rd Street and Ocean Drive will leave you at one with the sky, sand and water. The instructors of 3 rd Street Beach Yoga are on a mission to make yoga accessible and affordable, a labour of love propped up by your kind donation.

3rdstreetbeachyoga.com

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STYLE

[ GLOBETROTTER ]

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A RO U N D T H E WO R L D W I T H M O CA’s

Heidi Reitmaier

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n the fall of 2017, Toronto’s Museum of Contemporary Art’s ambitious plan to expand into massively larger new digs, in a formerly derelict building located an up-and-coming cultural district, seemed shaky. More than year had passed since CEO Chantal Pontbriand had abruptly left the job in the midst of fundraising campaigns and an enormous multimillion-dollar construction project that was already behind schedule. Enter new CEO Heidi Reitmaier. Coming from the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago (MCA), where she was responsible for leading the strategic initiative to re-imagine education and public programming, Reitmaier’s hire was both a surprise... and glaringly obvious. The Toronto native—who has held curatorial and leadership roles with the Vancouver Art Gallery and the Tate, London, and worked at the Institute of Contemporary Arts, London, and the BBC—certainly has a knack for getting things done. MOCA reopened its much-lauded new home in September, just nine months after Reitmaier took the reins.

Where in the world have you felt happiest?

That would be Toronto, my hometown, where I’ve returned recently with my family to launch the new Museum of Contemporary Art Toronto.

Who is your favourite travelling companion?

My family, of course, and I cherish those rare times when we can all getaway together, even if it’s just to a cottage in northern Ontario.

To get away from it all, I go to: I don’t have a lot of time to get away from it all these days, but I have very fond memories of a trip my husband and I took when I was in London working for the Tate. We flew to a tiny island, Tilos, Greece, where we literally just we toured around on mopeds and ate fish.

Who is the most interesting person you’ve met on your travels?

I met South African painter Marlene Dumas on a flight from Basel to London. She had work in an exhibition at MCA Chicago when I first started there in 2012, entitled This Will Have Been: Art, Love & Politics in the 1980s. She produces haunting paintings of women and we had a really interesting conversation about dealing with difficult subject matter in art.

Which is your favourite hotel and why?

Corte Di Gabriela in Venice, Italy, and very close to St. Mark’s Square. In Venice for the Biennale, I was booked there by accident and it was the most decadent and exclusive place I’ve ever stayed.

Confession time: name one thing you’ve taken from a hotel.

I’m a sucker for a good thick bathrobe. I also once lifted a pair of flip flops.

What’s the one thing you pack for every trip?

I wear a lot of basic black outfits, so I always make sure to pack a pair of really fabulous earrings and scarves, as they’re lightweight and can really change an outfit.

What’s your essential item for making travel more comfortable?

I always treat myself to a nice dry vodka martini in a quiet airport lounge.

“I was booked there by accident and

it was the most decadent and exclusive place I’ve ever stayed”

What’s your guilty pleasure while travelling?

I love to buy trashy magazines at airport newsstands. I particularly like Grazia Daily UK as it gives me my fix of celebrity news as well as fashion.

Which is your road most travelled?

Toronto to London, as we still have a flat there and I love to visit my former colleagues at BBC and Tate, as well as friends.

What inspires you to keep exploring?

I’m inspired by meeting new people and visit cities built around arts and culture.

What would be your trip of a lifetime?

I’ve always wanted to go to the Brazilian Amazon just because it’s so wild and lush and unlike anything else I’ve ever seen.

I lost my heart in…

Mexico City. The warm people, the amazing food and the vivid colours everywhere made it so unique. I also developed a taste for mescal when I was there.

Which travel experience most changed your worldview and why?

I did a three-month road trip with my family across Canada and to the southern U.S. when I was 12. It showed me that there was a much wider world for me to see.

Tell us about a time when you got lost or otherwise knocked off course.

I got off track and ended up driving into a poppy field while trying to make my way to Toulouse, France, with my husband. It was a really beautiful diversion.

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STYLE

[ BEAUTY ]

LANDING GEAR

No one feels like a million bucks after a long flight, but these carry-on-sized editors’ picks go a long way toward getting you touchdown ready

BRIGHTEN UP.

PRE-FLIGHT FACIAL.

Darphin Aromatic Cleansing Balm With Rosewood should do the trick. This luxe cleanser transforms from a balm to a silky lather as it hydrates and cleanses the skin.

A unique blend of ylang ylang, sage and rosewood creates a soothing scent for a spa-like experience while protecting the skin from dehydration, the perfect primer for moisturizer. darphin.ca

No sleep on the plane?

Hydrate under the eyes with FRESH Seaberry Skin Nutrition Booster. The formula is enriched with seaberry oil, a powerful antioxidant rich in nourishing omegas 3, 6, 7 and 9, and camellia seed oil, which helps to nourish and retain moisture, reducing puffiness for an instant, rested look. sephora.com

SPRITZ BLISS.

TRIPLE TREAT!

Herbivore Botanicals Rose Hibiscus Face Mist, with a truly natural base of organic coconut water, is infused with naturally humectant hibiscus flower extract and moisture-enhancing rose water to refresh and hydrate skin in flight, to help put your best face forward before you land. sephora.com

Clean, regenerate and plump the skin with Charlotte Tilbury Multi Miracle Glow, a multi-miraculous 3-in-1 skin cream-to-oil balm remedy. Enriched with vitamins, floral extracts, buckthorn seed oil and cranberry seed oil, apply for a dewy finish. The makeup artist Tilbury calls it, “one of our seven wonders for your skin.” Wonder enough to bring your skin’s complexion back to life after longhaul flights. holtrenfrew.com

HERE COMES THE SUN COVER UP with Glossier Invisible Shield SPF 35 when you travel to your favourite sun spot! This clear watergel formula—a single skinand sun-care product in one—is filled with active microcapsules that instantly absorb into skin with no greasy residue and zero white cast. It features broad spectrum SPF 35 protection with chemical sunscreens to provide defense from UVA/UVB rays. It’s also loaded with antioxidants, including vitamin E, vitamin P (flavonoids), broccoli and aloe leaf extracts to shield skin from free radicals and pollution. glossier.com SOOTHE OPERATOR.

Too much sun exposure? Coola: ER+ Radical Recovery After-Sun Lotion will rescue and save the skin you’re in. Combining organic agave and aloe vera and enriched with antioxidant and vitamin-intensive boosters, including rosemary extract and the nurturing oils of lavender, sunflower, sweet orange and mandarin peel, Radical Recovery After-Sun Lotion will nourish, repair and provide relief from sunburn. coolasuncare.com

DIVE IN

Bulova’s Archive Series Oceanographer “Devil Diver” 98B320

READY, SET, GO.

The anti-pollution complex, aloe vera, allantoin and rose floral water in Clarins Fix’ Make-Up spray do double duty to protect, hydrate, refresh and soothe skin. Gentlemen, this one will work for you too. clarins.ca

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Crafted for the adventurous, Bulova celebrates diving history with this iconic timepiece. During a time when diving watches only went 300 feet, Bulova made the daring move to create a watch that could plummet 666 feet—making history and earning its name ‘Devil Diver.’ bulova.com

BOLD Partnerships

ALMOST

PARADISE

TO BOOK YOUR OWN PRIVATE PARADISE CALL 1-855-269-5374 OR VISIT WWW.MELIA.COM

I

f we didn’t know better, we’d think we were on a private estate. Meandering along a path, one that winds its way through 14.5 acres of tropical greens, eye-popping blooms and desertscapes, we’re happily lost among it all. But the sound of the Sea of Cortez making land is audible, keeping our internal GPS on track. We’re at Paradisus Los Cabos, not far from the ex-pat, art-centric community of San Jose del Cabo, and the sun is bathing us with its rays.

The property was recently named to The Leading Hotels of the World, a curated collection of independent and distinct luxury hotels, as the company puts it.

The property took on a massive, multi-million dollar reconstruction in late 2016, and it shows.

It’s a gem of an all-inclusive that yet defies the typical definition. Mountains serve as its backdrop, service includes butlers with some of the rooms and families can opt for a concierge on call to help satisfy whims of all ages, a full service spa features local remedies and treatments. Of course, there are plenty of bars and restaurants, enough to try something new everyday of the week; there’s never a feeling of been there, done that.

It’s only a question of what to do? A dip in one of the four pools, perhaps? A walk on the beach and a float in the surf to cool off? A commune with nature surrounded in indigenous flora and fauna? How about a round of golf on the private course at Cabo Real?

How about all of it. And then a night cap, naturally, on the rooftop of the beach club with view of the sea as far as the eye can see.

FROM TOP LEFT: View of the pool; interior of the Gastro Bar; hop into an egg chair; the seating area of the master suite.

CARA JOURDAN

DIGITAL INFLUENCER AND AVIONER

STYLE AND TRAVEL Seeking a stylish, adventurous life with Avioner® and digital influencer Cara Jourdan

C

ultural exploration. Limitless adventure. Joyful discovery. Those of you who love to travel, to go beyond your borders (yet, at the same time, go deeper into your own backyard), you are a true traveller and these words are a part of your language.

And for true travellers, the need to feed your wanderlust is a part of who you are.

Taking in the sights, then going further — the history, the locals, the traditions, immersing yourself in the who, what, why and how of where you are, in the moment. A moment that

Photo by Paige Owen

EXTRAORDINARY STORIES WELL TRAVELLED

will last a lifetime in your memories. The tastes, the smells, the sounds of where you are fuel the passion for discovery of a new destination, or a more meaningful rediscovery of a timeless favourite place, somewhere you’ll return again and again. We have a name for these travellers — we call them Avioners.

One of these Avioners is Cara Jourdan, whose website CaraJourdan.com — a creative outlet to share her thoughts, inspirations and personal style — transformed a side hobby into a career as a digital influencer. Now, she seeks style and travel inspiration from around the world to share with her dedicated following.

For Jourdan, there is no ‘typical’ day. If she happens to be at home, she’s working on her website — then walking her dog and heading to the gym.

Otherwise, she might be anywhere in the world, curating content. “It can be anything from waking up early to get a shot, exploring a city, hanging out on a beach or wandering the streets trying to get lost and experience the city,” she says.

One thing is constant, though — she’s always planning her next trip. “I travel every month and try to go somewhere new each time, or when I go to the same city or country, I try to visit new restaurants or locations. I like to try new things at least once and always research what the local fare is so that I can try whatever the specialty is in that city or country.”

To get the best shots, she gets up early to explore locations when fewer people are around. And if she finds a spot she loves, she goes back later when she’s ‘off duty’ to relax and enjoy it, sans camera.

Having a sense of adventure means stepping slightly off the beaten travel path. Getting off the resort and exploring the town. Talking to locals, eating a local meal and seeing where the locals hang out.

That’s what she loves to share with her audience, creating city guides about when to travel, what to expect and what works for different budgets. “I spend the time visiting all of the cafés, restaurants, hotels, museums and beaches so I can tell you where to go and what to skip,” she says.

Before she became a digital influencer, Jourdan worked as a senior buyer in the fashion industry, starting her website as a side project in 2011. But when things took off, she was able to quit her full-time job to become a full-time influencer.

Her one travel must-have is her RBC ® Visa Infinite‡ Avion® card, which she uses to book flights, hotels and rental cars. It gives her the flexibility to redeem points on anything from gift cards and merchandise to — most importantly — travel without blackout periods or flight restrictions.

“Booking with RBC Rewards® points makes any trip so easy,” she says.

Jourdan has been an RBC customer since she was a child, — and she’s been a fan ever since. “I have never left Royal Bank because of their customer service, and when it came time to get a credit card, it wasn’t even a question that I got an RBC Visa Infinite Avion card”, she says.

“Both of my parents have the card so I saw first-hand how wonderful it is, and when I signed up myself I saw even more of the benefits.”

Aside from bringing her card with her wherever she goes, Jourdan also does her research so she knows how to say ‘hello’ and ‘thank you’ in the local language, and understands cultural norms such as what to wear when travelling in a Muslim country.

And when she returns home, she likes to bring something with her as a memento of her adventures. “I love to find the local shops to find a special piece — and for me, I prefer finding something that I will actually use at home. Often we bring things home from trips that just don’t fit in our daily lives. So, a pretty jewel, cooking ingredients, something I can really use.”

For others who want to follow in her footsteps, Jourdan says it takes a lot of time and effort, and success doesn’t happen overnight. “There is room in the influencer industry for everyone, but you must be committed and have a business plan if you are hoping to do it as a career,” she says.

“Be true to your own creativity and dream, be patient and work hard.”

About to take off on a trip? Tag @RBCAvion and use #Avioning to be feature on our Instagram Channel.

Avioners® Can Do That.

THE BOLD LIST

BOLD Partnerships

Whether motivated by curiosity, a sense of connection or a desire to expand your horizons, sometimes you’ve just got to feed the need for travel. In partnership with RBC, BOLD magazine presents its annual list of the best of where to go, what to eat, what to see and what to do. Each of these extraordinary experiences is bound to make for an unforgettable journey.

Photo By Don Mammoser

Transporting plants at the Amber Fort in Rajasthan, India.

Xxxxxx

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ANCIENT CULTURES & INDIGENOUS WILDLIFE SRI LANKA In the Indian Ocean, off the southeast coast of India, sits the island of Sri Lanka. Its multi-cultural heritage, infused with Southeast Asian influences, gives this country a rich diversity of customs and traditions. It is said that evidence of some of the earliest humans on earth have been found here, and the country hosts one of the oldest civilizations on record. A mix of Buddhist, Hindu, Christian and Muslim, Sri Lanka has been shaped, over the centuries, by a number of external forces, Indian, Thai, Moorish, Malay and British among them. The ancient archaeology will fascinate the history lover, while the Indo- global cuisine will tantalize the the taste buds of even the most ardent foodie.

This tiny island is a powerhouse when it comes to the variety of flora and fauna; it is the most densely bio-diverse country in Asia. Visitors can spot unique animals, including Sri Lankan leopards, which are native to the island, Asian elephants, sloth bears and wild boars. Birding enthusiasts will revel in the remarkable wealth of species that fill the air with their song. On the coast—all 1,585 kilometres of it—get into the swim of things in the aquamarine waters of the Indian Ocean. Inland, rivers and rainforests give way to waterfalls. A tropical paradise far from the madding crowds, Sri Lanka is a destination that will wrap you in its intricate beauty.

NATURAL WONDERS, RAINFORESTS & SOFT ADVENTURE BELIZE Central American by its location, English-speaking due to its British colonial past and Caribbean in its nature, Belize is an undiscovered gem on the isthmus that stretches south from Mexican border to hot-weather favourite Costa Rica and on-the-rise Panama. Despite the English, the Spanish influence also remains intact here, as does the ancient Mayan culture, one of the earliest known civilizations in the Americas. In fact, Belize is home to a number of ruins, including one of the best-preserved Mayan pyramids, found at Caracol.

When the American filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola discovered Belize, he was looking for a retreat. But his experience of being enveloped in nature so lush and so remote led him to create Blancaneaux Lodge hotel. Located inland in the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve, it’s a hideaway he felt he could share with like-minded travellers. Within the surrounding jungles live some of the world’s rarest and near extinct animal species. For those yearning to be closer to the open water, Coppola has built another property, Turtle Inn, on a narrow peninsula reaching out into the Caribbean Sea. And just off the country’s coast sits Belize’s barrier reef, a UNESCO World Heritage site comprised of a series of tiny coral islands, or cayes, along these crystalline waters. This diver’s paradise is home to rich marine life, matched only by the teeming wildlife inhabiting the country’s interior forests. Natural wonders, indeed. thefamilycoppolahideaways.com

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OLD WORLD CHARM & EUROPEAN HOSPITALITY BRATISLAVA, SLOVAKIA Reflected in the waters of the storied Danube, Bratislava takes on a sparkling new sheen. Long overshadowed by her wellheeled Central European sisters, Vienna, Prague and Budapest, Bratislava is now having a moment in the spotlight. The cobblestones ring with the sounds of the daily commute, and walking here is the best way to get around. In many parts, it’s the only way.

History, particularly that of the Second World War and the time the country spent behind the Iron Curtain, looms large here. Yet the mainly pedestrian old town is alive and well, with a well-honed European café culture, vibrant medieval squares and the legendary Bratislava Castle. The city’s botanical garden provides inspiration for the green-thumb traveller, with more than 5,000 species of plants and a spectacular rose garden where one can inhale the perfume of 150 hybrid varieties.

The city hugs the edges of the Little Carpathian mountains, while just on its outskirts, miles of vineyards can be found, with grapes at the ready to be plucked and juiced. Hiking and biking are easy modes of transportation and exploration, and river cruising along this stretch of the Danube provides a unique view of the city and the imposing Bratislava Castle, which sits perched on a hill, like a king overlooking his domain. Automobile enthusiasts might take a tour in a classic Skoda—the car for the masses manufactured in the former Czechoslovakia—or visit Volkswagen Slovakia. Take one of the company’s SUVs out for an off-road spin. It will be sure to get the adrenaline going! visit-volkswagen.sk

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THROWBACK GLAMOUR, MUSIC & DANCE HAVANA, CUBA There’s a reason Havana has been immortalized in song, in script and on the screen (think the Copacabana, Ernest Hemingway, Our Man in Havana and The Buena Vista Social Club). In the post-war/pre-Cold War/pre-revolutionary era of the last century, Havana was the hotspot. Music, a mashup of Afro-Jazz, tinged with Spanish undertones gave way to Salsa dancing—all the rage with the monied set and Hollywood glitterati. You can still take lessons today at some of the dance schools, or just spend a few nights observing and partaking with the joyful locals—all of whom seem to know how to dance—in some of the famous nightclubs in the capital. This is a place where some of the world has yet to visit. And now is the time, before an influx of travellers changes this favoured Canadian getaway forever.

A stroll along the city’s malecón, or promenade, which hugs the sea, is a perfect spot for people-watching. The breeze is light and constant, straight off the crystal blue of the Caribbean.

In town, vintage cars drive the avenues while local artists are setting up shop in colonial buildings long abandoned by the revolution. Cocktail culture is strong here, and suits the sunny climes: Daiquiris—a favourite of Mr. Hemingway— and the ever-popular and refreshing Mojito, are always on the menu at hip and happening bars and hotels, with alcohol, or without. Take your pick! Cuba libre, indeed.

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COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE & CAFÉ CULTURE SANTO DOMINGO, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC An easy ramble up the cobblestones of the New World’s oldest boulevard leads to the Cathedral of Santa María la Menor, the Americas’ oldest cathedral. Still standing proudly, it was built in the first half of the 1500s in honour of St. Mary of the Incarnation. It is at once breathtakingly gothic and medieval and at the same time, regal. The structure is a cornerstone of colonial Santo Domingo, and its own cornerstone was placed by Diego Columbus, son of the great explorer Christopher. The cathedral sits in Santo Domingo’s Zona Colonial, which is surrounded in a walled, fortress-like neighbourhood of architecture from the 1500s. Rumour has it that there may still be remains of Christopher buried deep in the cathedral. A mystique lingers more than 500 years later.

Not far is the Plaza de Espana, where the Alcazar de Colon palace throws its imposing gaze over the square. The palace was once home to Diego and his entourage, and where the Columbus family set up a makeshift court in the name of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella.

But en route, there are tiny counter-style cafés and colourful artists’ shops worth exploring. Roasting and sipping coffee are also art forms here; do not miss a cup if you enjoy a beautifully balanced brew. It’s as intoxicating as the music that wafts over the air from these little hot spots, where daily life can be observed and friendly conversation can take place with locals. Walk the footsteps of Columbus. Once on the Plaza de Espana, take a seat at one of the many cafés and bars that line this grey-and-whitepaved outdoor meeting place, soak up a little sunshine and take in the scene.

OLD WORLD CHARM MEETS CARIBBEAN SPICE ST. GEORGE, GRENADA The combination of French sophistication and English ingenuity have helped maintain its original city boundaries, where both the Catholic Church, built in 1818, and the Anglican Church, built in 1825, still stand as monuments to human endeavour. Unique, fish-scale patterned roofs decorate houses, and much of the original Georgian architecture has been maintained or lovingly restored. It is a seamless mix of picturesque Caribbean with the allure of the Old World. The city stretches its arms out to sea, welcoming seafaring visitors while hugging the coast with its sparkling horseshoe-shaped harbour, said to be one of the most beautiful in all of the West Indies. Divers will delight in the underwater sculpture park, where you can swim among the art and the marine life. Foodies will revel in the variety of spices and chocolate. It’s the sweet life.

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A RECONNECTION WITH LAND & SEA VANCOUVER ISLAND, BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA On Canada’s western edge sits a different kind of island. It is here that Queen Victoria has her namesake city, the capital. It is here to where we retreat. It is also here where a most spectacular place sits.

Perched at the water’s edge, like a queen sitting on her throne, facing ever westward, as if daring her most loyal yet rambunctious subject to lap at her feet yet entertain her with his every weathered move. The queen, in this case, is Tofino’s The Wickaninnish Inn. Her subject, the mighty Pacific. This award-winning member of the revered Relais & Chateaux network of, well, simply gorgeous places to hang your hat, is a beacon of rest and relaxation and a front-row seat to some of nature’s most magnificent moods. Stormwatchers gather at the inn to take in the sea’s showy personality; the crashing waves, the surfers braving them, all while swirling pods of orca can be seen in the distance.

But the ocean is not the inn’s only muse. Chesterman Beach calls to the combers in all of us. The rainforest, ancient and resplendent with such giants as the Western Red Cedar, Douglas Fir and Sitka Spruce, begs for a mind-cleansing forest bathing walk. And the town of Tofino is about as laid back as a vacation spot should be. Back at the inn, emersion of the Pacific Northwest comes naturally. The cuisine is inspired by B.C.’s rich bounty, from straight-from-the-sea seafood to farm-fresh organic (and did we mention the wines? The list is among the best in B.C.), to the inn’s Ancient Cedars spa, with treatments that take their cues from the rustic elements that envelop the property, and our bodies. The sea air, the mesmerizing beat of the ocean surf, and the warm welcome from our hosts at The Wickaninnish will soon have us lulled into a peaceful slumber. No matter. Tomorrow we will be greeted by more. And the ocean will be waiting. wickinn.com

REJUVENATION & EXPLORATION IN THE RED CITY MARRAKECH, MOROCCO When some of us think of Marrakech, we think of swaying palms moving with a breeze laced with the scent of oranges. Silvery leaves of olive trees glisten in the desert sun. The backdrop of the Atlas Mountains do their best to throw some shade, while proudly maintaining their snowy caps. It may seem cliche, but here in Northern Africa, the oasis that is the Fairmont Royal Palm is real. It is removed from the city’s hustle and bustle, but not quite remote. The medina and marketplace, the pulse of Marrakech, is just 20 minutes away. Stroll among the spices and the fabrics and the foods cooking on the grill, and immerse yourself in the Red City’s daily life.

At the end of the day, retreat to the resort. Surround yourself in nature.

Take a dip in the generous-sized swimming pool, taste local and global cuisine prepared by top chefs or practice your golf swing before hitting the links the next day. In fact, 2018 marked the first year the Fairmont Royal Palm hosted an internationally ranked Pro Am golf tournament.The beauty is that the property is also a conduit to all that Morocco can deliver as a destination. The sights, the traditions and the culture of the country and of the Red City itself are all easily navigated with a hotel-arranged guide. The hotel serves as an easy introduction to the warmth and welcoming nature of the people and their unique brand of hospitality.

Marrakech’s museums and galleries will satiate art and history lovers, while a day at the Medina or a stroll perusing ingredients at Fairmont’s organic farm may inspire a recipe for a cooking class at the hotel that will whet the culinary traveller’s appetite for food and adventure. Children, too, can learn about Moroccan art, food and culture through activities lead by friendly locals with a creative knack for sharing stories, in their own designated kids club. There’s nowhere quite like Morocco; not another like Marrakech. The imperial city glimmers in the desert heat, inviting a closer look. fairmont.com/marrakech

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HOSPITALITY FIT FOR A MAHARAJA JAIPUR, INDIA The Pink City. Home to maharajas’ palaces, grand fortresses, lush gardens and serene temples. This is Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, where Mughal and Rajput architecture meet. Stand in awe at the entrance of the Hawa Mahal, known as the Palace of the Winds, and built from the pink sandstone that some say inspired the city’s nickname. Spend an afternoon exploring the markets and bazaars of Jaipur and discover some of the sparkle behind this city: the craftsmanship of the jewellery designers for which Jaipur is also famous—as well as textiles, carpets and other traditional handicrafts.

At the City Palace, built by the founder of Jaipur and still home to the last ruling royal family, many sections have been graciously opened to visits by the public. The ceilings feature wonderfully preserved paintings; the museum showcases royal costumes, while the Maharani’s palace houses a remarkable collection of weaponry.

Later, find yourself in another kind of palace in the centre of it all: The Raj Palace, a member of Small Luxury Hotels. Here, the walls have a regal history, too. Housed in a former maharaja’s palace, the hotel has been restored to reflect its glorious roots. Here, you’ll live in this history, with the intricately painted walls and golden-hued halls resplendent with original artworks and artifacts that shed light on the city’s and its citizens’ past. A dip in the pool surrounded by sculptures, Want to feed your need to travel? As an AVIONER® you can do that. fountains and gardens will help cool things off. Then stroll the lawns through courtyards and delicately arched arcades in the Discover how an RBC Avion card makes it easier to explore footsteps of the maharaja. A traditional tea in the afternoon in the places you’ve always wanted to go – or revisit the Royal Lounge will provide fortification for more exploring. th th a culture that’s made a difference in your life.

This time, head to the hotel’s museum, where 18 - and 19 century antiques and crockery are on display.

Jaipur’s theme colour, pink, is said to be the colour of hospitality. In the late 1800s, when the then Prince of Wales scheduled a visit to Jaipur, the maharaja had the entire city painted pink. No doubt, the Prince of Wales blushed at the sight. Definitely, fit for a prince. slh.com/hotels/the-raj-palace-hotel

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SCENIC SCANDINAVIA AND ITS FJORDS • DAY 8 Sognefjord

THE REAL

EUROPE & BRITAIN 116 TRIPS. 220 CITIES. MOMENTS LIKE THIS ON EVERY ONE.

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SAVE AN ADDITIONAL $75 PER PERSON UNTIL MARCH 31, 2019.** QUOTE PROMO CODE PPBTRIPS19

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DEPARTURES EXPLORE. DISCOVER. EXPERIENCE. INDULGE.

Be our Guest

We know what gets you excited about travel: authentic and off-the-beaten-path experiences, personal interaction with the locals, the thrill of the unexpected. But we also know that making those things happen isn’t always so easy.

Inspired by the way our editors travel, we’re introducing a new series of guided experiences, BOLD JOURNEYS, in partnership with TRAFALGAR, a leading premium travel company known for providing insider access and memorable experiences.

On the following pages are 10 trips spanning the globe. From Japan to Australia to our home and native land, Canada—our destination ideas cover all continents and types of travel experiences.

Read on for a snapshot of the itineraries. For full day-by-day outlines, promotional codes and how to book, go to tours.boldmagazine.ca/trafalgar or call 1.800.352.4444 boldmagazine.ca

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magine standing among the history and the ruins of Rome. Or gazing in a zen moment over the temples of Japan. How about being immersed in the natural flora and fauna of Costa Rica? Even the down-east hospitality that proves there’s no place like home, right here in Canada can have a magical effect on your imagination. Travel, exploration, discovery—now’s the time to take that step that’s beyond your imagination, and just go.

That’s what’s hot now.

Looking for more inspiration? Trafalgar has created a top-10 list, among the travel company’s more than 300 itineraries around the globe—yes, we said more than 300—of some of the most popular and enriching guided holidays and destinations you can imagine. Intimate experiences, such as the company’s Be My Guest and Connect with the Locals programs, set the tone for the unique. With Trafalgar, travellers really are the “guests,” in locals’ homes, farms and even castles, where you might go behind the scenes at a historic brewhouse, get up-close-and-personal with award-winning thoroughbred horses or even climb a private staircase in the Vatican. You’ll have the chance to live in history, too: Hotels are chosen for culturally significant architecture and storied locations. Add the hands-on, groupbuilding fun lead by engaging local specialists and top-notch travel directors (think of it as having the luxury of an on-trip concierge), and you’ll find the fostering of like-minded spirit among Trafalgar’s guests is the happy side-effect. You’re bound to learn a thing or two about the culture, and make a few lifelong friends along the way.

The Natural Wonder of

COST PER PERSON FROM $2,395

Costa Rica

Volcanic vistas, verdant jungles and stretches of sand are what make Costa Rica a diamond in the rough. But even the rough is unspoiled. Therapeutic waters springing from the volcano, fresh air kissing the palms as it passes, a canopy of green treetops providing shelter from the sun. Sprawling haciendas are the ranches of Central America, where cattle and horses roam, and where the locals welcome you into their home. Cocoa plantations give fruit that makes some of the sweetest chocolate in the world and tender hearts of palm are plentiful.

In Monteverde, immerse yourself in the Cloud Forest Reserve, where, among one of Earth’s most pristine rainforests, you will discover some of the world’s most diverse plants and wildlife, including a cacophony of prehistoric ferns, exotic orchids, majestic jaguars and rainbow-hued birds. But it goes beyond the eco adventure. There is a human history in this place, and the Quakers were among the first to recognize this paradise is precious, and at risk. They took steps to preserve the rainforests and protect the environment by creating the country’s first nature reserve.

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LENGTH 7 NIGHTS, 8 DAYS

ITINERARY: Costa Rica Eco Adventure End Liberia DATE OF DEPARTURE: 19 January, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Indulge in gourmet chocolate made from the world’s best cacao beans. Visit a Tico family’s palm plantation to learn about and sample the delicate heart of palm.

CONNECT WITH LOCALS: Join Don Alberto and Doña Ana Quintana for a traditional Costa Rican lunch at their Hacienda Pozo Azul, a 2,000-acre working ranch, and discover how they reduce their carbon footprint and support the local economy.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking

The Legends of

Peru

The mystery of the Incas, the sacred ruins of Machu Picchu and the hillsides of the Andes dotted with llama, alpaca and vicuna. Artisan traditions, such as the weavers who carry on the age-old techniques and pass them to the next generation, can be seen in the fabrics resplendent with brightly coloured patterns.

Meet the friendly people at the outdoor markets where you can sample local cuisine, and shop for fresh seafood, fruits and vegetables to get acquainted with Peruvian life. Ride the rails on an iconic journey, where the train takes you to time-worn places still revered as hallowed, and where you can witness the remains of ancient civilizations so advanced, their achievements still boggle the mind. Explore Cusco, where terraces of Incan ruins preside over colonial architecture; then live in the now in Lima, Peru’s lively capital city, where pre-columbian art and history mixes with the New World colonialism and the modern, skyscraping skyline, which hugs the seaside cliffs with spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean.

LENGTH 7 NIGHTS, 8 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $3,175

ITINERARY: Highlight of Peru DATE OF DEPARTURE: 5 January, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Visit a local market with a young chef and enjoy a special lunch at his cooking school.

CONNECT WITH LOCALS: Visit Awakancha to see where delicate alpaca, llama and vicuna wool is sourced from, and discover how local families are taught to preserve ancient weaving techniques from a fascinating Quechua scholar.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking

Remarkable

LENGTH 8 NIGHTS, 9 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $5,195

Japan

From the bright lights of Tokyo to the zen of Kyoto, Japan is a fascinating study in contrasts and continuity. One of the most enduring on Earth, the Japanese culture is imbued with propriety, aesthetics and respect. Ancestral traditions are passed down from generation to generation, the art of peaceful zen wellness, of porcelain and paper making, even the art of sushi.

Everything is for beauty, for the art of perfection and presentation. The meticulously lacquered walls of the temples of Kyoto reflect the sun; bright reds, oranges and golds only rival those found in some of the most beautiful and verdant gardens in the world, where one can truly be one with nature in extraordinarily cared-for surroundings.

Experience the world of the Geisha, their music and their makeup. Hike the foothills around Mount Fuji, Japan’s indomitable peak, which pierces the horizon like a snow-

tipped arrow. And get lost in Tokyo, among its skyscrapers and the noodle bars. Visit the Imperial Palace, where one of the world’s most fascinating monarchies still hold court, make peace at a Buddhist temple and finish with a satisfying sip of sake. Kanpai!

ITINERARY: Splendours of Japan DATE OF DEPARTURE: 6 January, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Sample Japanese sake during a walking tour in the Edo-style streets of Takayama Old Town. Learn how local artisans make Japanese washi paper in the UNESCO village of Gokayama.

CONNECT WITH LOCALS: Enjoy a Kaiseki (a traditional multi-course Japanese meal) at a traditional Japanese ryokan home near Kyoto, while you learn about local customs.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking boldmagazine.ca

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LENGTH 9 NIGHTS, 10 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $3,095

The Beauty of

Britain & Ireland

The legends of United Kingdom and Ireland run deep. From the romance of King Arthur to the faithful following in the footsteps of St. Patrick, the history of these isles permeates our imaginations and sparks our wanderlust. Ancestry, whether familial or just ingrained in the DNA of being a part of the Commonwealth, gives an added appeal to exploring England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland—as well as the Republic of Ireland. With one foot in Europe, the other in lore so rich it informs our own history, these countries beguile and delight.

London, the capital of cool, is only the start.

Dig deeper into Welsh culture and discover a winemaking region while feasting on the local bounty; feel the magic as you stand among the monoliths at Stonehenge; and watch fire turn to crystal in Waterford. The birthplace of Shakespeare, the countryside inspiration for Jane Austen and the haunts of Roald Dahl are just a few pages in this place. Edinburgh Castle, the centre of Belfast, Yorkminster—you don’t have to imagine if these walls could talk. From Glasgow to Dublin, these storytelling isles will fill your memories with a lifetime of tales.

ITINERARY: Britain and Ireland Highlights DATE OF DEPARTURE: 25 October, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Admire Ireland’s finest thoroughbreds at the Irish National Stud Farm.

CONNECT WITH LOCALS: Enjoy a hearty Welsh dinner with a farming family and their animals in the beautiful award-winning vineyards of Wales.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking

La Dolce Vita of

Italy

“First we eat, then we do everything else....”

LENGTH 12 NIGHTS, 13 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $3,595

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Food, of course, is the first thing that comes to mind when many of us think of Italy. It is also a world of wonders—Rome and the mind-boggling engineering of the Colosseum, the testament to faith that is the basilica of St. Mark’s in Venice, the lasting monument of a civilization that is Pompeii and, of course, The Vatican.

But Italy is so much more. It is the beauty of artisans still practicing ancient trades such as hand-blown glass, the romance of Romeo and Juliet and Verona, the sparkling waters off the isle of Capri.

And, yes, it is the food. Glorious, and even more so when a meal is taken in a family-run restaurant where mama still cooks in the kitchen; it is sipping a local vintage in the very vineyard surrounding

the walled city of San Gimignano, where that grape has been grown; it’s the sweet taste of indulging in gelato while tossing a coin in the Trevi Fountain. You will be saying ciao, Italia, again before you know it.

ITINERARY: Best of Italy DATE OF DEPARTURE: 27 October, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Ascend the spiral staircase designed by Donato Bramante, in a part of the Vatican not open to the public.

BE MY GUEST: Join Signor Telli for an exclusive dinner at his family-run restaurant on the scheduled Isola Madre Island.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* VALID UNTIL: March 31, 2019 QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking

European Tour The Grand

LENGTH 9 NIGHTS, 10 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $2,725

From London to Lucerne, the grand capitals of Europe are full of sights to be seen. From Big Ben to Buckingham Palace, London’s regal nature is hard to resist. In Paris, the City of Light, stroll like a Parisian in the French capital along the Champs-Élysées to l’Arc du Triomphe, and marvel at the Notre Dame Cathedral after a stop at a sidewalk café for a coffee and a croissant. The French countryside, with its vineyards and its battlefields, is worthy of exploration. The Romans left a mark throughout Europe, but it is in their namesake city where their influence still flourishes. Everything is useful and beautiful; design is appreciated and respected. From flowing fountains of spring water that still comes from the surrounding mountains to the stunning architecture of Bernini and Bramante, the Eternal City is a testament to faith and beauty. In Florence, the Renaissance period comes to life through art, architecture and daily life. The streets are filled with the ghosts of Medici, Michelangelo and da Vinci. Through the European Alps, to Lucerne, where the warmth of the Swiss welcomes you as sweetly as the world-famous and delicious chocolate for which Switzerland is known.

ITINERARY: European Traveller DATE OF DEPARTURE: 16 December, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Enjoy the elegance of yesteryear and sweeping lake vistas in Lucerne at the Grand Hotel Europe, where warm Swiss hospitality and a grand past spanning over a century guarantee an unforgettable stay.

CONNECT WITH LOCALS: Indulge in delicious Italian flavours and the hearty hospitality of a local family.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking boldmagazine.ca

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The Lands Down Under

LENGTH 20 NIGHTS, 21 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $11,450

A trek to Australia and New Zealand should include at least two things: one, a chance to delve into these islands’ Aboriginal and Maori cultures and, two, time spent with the locals. Both these countries are completely unique from each other. Go walkabout in the Australian outback. Alice Springs gives way to Ayers Rock, but the original landowners here call it Uluru, the Red Centre.

And it is—the centre of the Outback, and the centre of a spiritual energy. The dark sky is a riot of constellations; there’s no light pollution here. Of course, the city is also the centre—we can’t skip the Sydney Opera House or the sight of the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

In New Zealand, the landscape defies definition. On the South Island, navigate winding fjords that carve their way to where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific reach toward Antarctica and marvel at the heights of the snow-capped Southern Alps—you might recognize this place from The Lord of the Rings. It’s fantasy meets Mother Nature at her fantastical best. On the North Island, experience the warm Kiwi hospitality, and get a greater understanding of how the Maori and European cultures have created a distinctive, modern-day way of life. G’day mate!

Hawaiian Island Hopping

Pure sunshine. Beaches worth combing.

Waves worth catching. A culture clash that seems to work seamlessly. Sound good? This is only part of the alluring Aloha spirit of the Hawaiian Islands. Polynesian vibes integrate with American modernity, while everyone and everything is touched by nature. Sure, we think we know Honolulu and Waikiki, but do we? A chance to go deeper into trendsetting Oahu is in order, but a trip to Pearl Harbor reminds us that even in paradise we must remember our past to inform our future. Meanwhile, on Kauai, the ancient canyons, dubbed The Grand Canyon of the Pacific, gives a clarity of the depth of time.

The big island, Hawaii, is home to an active volcano, turning this natural spectacle into a spectacular spectator sport, as lava flows etch their way over the island’s surface.

Of course, the Aloha spirit also comes from its people, whose easy-going attitude

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pairs perfectly with a unique reverence for the land and the sea—where farmers cultivate some of the world’s richest coffee and surfers take on the waves, just as their ancestors did before them. Mahalo!

ITINERARY: Hawaii Four Island Adventure Moderate DATE OF DEPARTURE: 06 December, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Delve into the vibrant sugar-cane heritage of Kauai during a visit to Grove Farm Sugar Plantation, then see “The Grand Canyon of the Pacific.”

CONNECT WITH LOCALS: Meet Ancil for an educational farm-to-fork experience and help gather fresh produce for your al fresco lunch, and learn more about bio-dynamic farming.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking

ITINERARY: Highlights of Australia and New Zealand DATE OF DEPARTURE: 11 August, 2019 HIGHLIGHTS: Discover the stunning heart of the Red Centre from the Desert Gardens Hotel, Ayers Rock, and experience the natural beauty of this unique landscape.

The hotel offers incredible views of towering gums, flowering native shrubs and glowing red dunes.

BE MY GUEST: In New Zealand’s North Island, join the O’Sullivans for lunch at the Red Barn on their Waikato farm.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE PPBTRIPS19 when booking

LENGTH 12 NIGHTS, 13 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $5,950

Iberian Peninsula

Traversing the LENGTH 12 NIGHTS, 13 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $3,050

The wine, the food, the fiery culture. The land of explorers and torreodors, rugged Atlantic coastlines and Mediterranean seascapes and the oldest capital in Europe. This is Spain and Portugal, two countries bound by a geography and religion, yet unbridled by language and lifestyle. Both lands with a history of exploration, yet today, it is travellers from other parts of the globe that seek out the traditions and heritage which make these countries a must-visit. From Spain’s Valencia, where the paella is perfect, to Seville, where the sounds of flamenco and the fragrance of orange blossoms infuses the air, to Granada, the last stronghold of the Moors— and where their influence is still evident, with flowing water fountains and colourful tiled courtyards. Onward to Portugal and its sunny Algarve southern coast, with stretches of beaches, to Lisbon, Europe’s oldest capital city, with its black and white mosaic sidewalks and cool café culture. The melancholy strains of Fado singers permeate the night air, stories of devotion not unlike those of the pilgrims, who continue to make their way to Fátima, where tales of miracles still inspire.

ITINERARY: Highlights of Spain and Portugal DATE OF DEPARTURE: 10 November, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Sample the famous sherry traditional in the southern Spanish city of Jerez, which has been making wine since the 7 th century.

BE MY GUEST: Saddle up for a superb stud farm visit, the tragic story of unrequited love and a traditional home-cooked lunch with Tiago and Vera in Portugal’s beautiful Alentejo.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking

The Atlantic

Canadian Way

There’s no place like home, and this is the perfect time to explore our own backyard.

Canada is blessed with incredible mountains, coastlines that just don’t quit and a worldfamous friendliness that’s at its hearty best in the Maritimes. The Down East flavours, from ocean-fresh lobster to just-harvested PEI potatoes add a homey touch to just about everything. The people are some of the most welcoming in the world, and celebrate age-old traditions, from music and dancing to mastering the brew and being the home of our country’s constitution. Halifax, the storied gateway for much of the 19thand 20th-century immigration, showcases our doors-open-to-the-world view, while Charlottetown has us falling in love with Anne of Green Gables all over again. Peggy’s Cove, Hopewell Rocks, the Cabot Trail—the coast and the sea beyond draws us, where whales play and the fishermen battle the

LENGTH 10 NIGHTS, 11 DAYS COST PER PERSON FROM $4,395

elements to bring us the daily catch. Where Gaelic culture, education and language is alive and well, and where the likes of Alexander Keith created one of Canada’s most revered brews, and Alexander Graham Bell, who linked the world with his telephone invention, made Nova Scotia his home.

ITINERARY: Enchanting Canadian Maritimes DATE OF DEPARTURE: 1 June, 2019 THE HIGHLIGHT: Live in a piece of Canadian history—Stay at the legendary Lord Nelson Hotel and Suites, the most historic hotel in Halifax, and at the Rodd Charlottetown, an historic icon built in 1931.

BE MY GUEST: Revel in local hospitality—Meet the owners of the PEI Preserve Company, who will host a delicious dinner of local cuisine.

READER OFFER: $75 OFF PER PERSON* QUOTE PROMO CODE: PPBTRIPS19 when booking

Print offer terms and conditions: Save $75 off per person on 2019 Europe and Britain Trips.

Combinable with early payment discounts where applicable. Not combinable with Costsaver or custom groups. Subject to availability and may be withdrawn at any time. Other conditions apply.

Quote promo code PPBTRIPS19. CALL 1.800.352.4444 boldmagazine.ca

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WHERE YOU WANT TO BE IN LOS CABOS

Prime Beachfront Location & Swimmable Beach | Luxury All-Inclusive | 350 Oversized Rooms & Suites | 5-Star Dining Family Concierge | Royal Service Exclusively for Adults | Romance by Paradisus | YHI Spa | Life Enriching Experiences Non-Motorized Water Sports | 13,345 sq. ft. Convention Center 1 . 8 0 0 . 3 3 . M E L I A | PA R A D I S U S . CO M

BEGUILED BY

baja

Not just for beachcombers anymore, in Los Cabos, PAUL GALLANT discovers there are as many adventures on the plate as there are on the water and in the desert

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the vegetation in and around acre is so lush and green, visitors can easily forget for a moment the surrounding desert climate that makes Baja California Sur so famous.

At this “treehouse resort,” in a fertile valley on the edge of San José del Cabo, palm trees form the borders of outdoor rooms, punctuated by 13 luxe treehouses built of sustainable materials. On a recent night, the well-dressed crowd at Acre’s farm-to-table restaurant seems giddy about the food—or perhaps it’s just the mezcal. Chef Kevin Luzande’s cuisine blends Mexican and European influences (cashews in a black bean tamal—whoa!) while never straying too far from locally available ingredients.

Though the resorts of Los Cabos have never been posher or more comprehensive in their strategies to please and pamper guests, the range of options to lure visitors offproperty has never been more tempting. The chic Acre, along with Flora Farms, the more established agri-restocomplex right next door, make getting up close and personal with the food production process an enjoyable part of the pleasure of eating. They also provide an excuse to explore the southern end of Mexico’s 1,200-kilometrelong Baja California peninsula. Passing through the gorgeous yellows and browns of the hilly desert landscape, punctuated by cacti nourished by 350 days of sunshine each year, can be a real dream.

“We’re seeing more and more people come, as what’s on offer has become more sophisticated,” says Cameron Watt, co-owner of Acre, originally from Vancouver. He launched the business with a friend, also from Vancouver, seven years ago. “It’s been exciting to see Los Cabos attract people who may not have considered coming here before.”

While Californians have long headed to Los Cabos for party weekends, the destination has more recently attracted global attention for the increasing number of high-end resorts dedicated to design, pampering and pleasing. The

building boom that’s followed the 2014 hurricane has brought a wider variety of accommodation and dining options. Certainly, the 30-kilometre coastal corridor between the region’s two anchor towns—Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo—has become a showcase for some of the most stylish resorts on the planet.

Montage Los Cabos, which opened on Santa Maria Bay last spring, is part of the 1,400-acre master-planned Twin Dolphin community on the corridor. The luxury resort has 122 guest rooms and suites, three private casas and 52 private residences on a beautiful property sitting on a sheltered beach known for its snorkelling. The architecture and interiors, created by Robert Glazier and design studio Bernardi + Peschard, use bold shapes and colours to create an homage to modern Mexican design.

Also newly opened, and extremely design-focused, is the eye-catching Viceroy Los Cabos. A reimagining of Mexico-based architect Miguel Angel Aragonés’s design for Mar Adentro, in San José del Cabo’s Zona Hotelera, the 194-room resort uses super-modern white structures and white, minimal interiors to showcase the natural beauty of its surroundings. The allure of Los Cabos has become so great that even Caesars Palace is claiming a spot, announcing last spring that Dallas-based Nunzio Marc DeSantis Architects (NMDA) will design its new US$200-million beachfront resort, with 500 guest rooms. The project is scheduled to start in the first half of 2019. Meanwhile, Paradisus by Meliá, which opened in December 2016 following a multi-million-dollar renovation, has just been welcomed into The Leading Hotels of the World, a curated collection of independent and distinct luxury hotels.

But the impressive architecture and design in this latest wave of Los Cabos resorts and hotels is not the sole reason for the destination’s renaissance. There’s romance, yes, with some of the best wedding planning services in the world. But there are other adventures lurking everywhere.

That includes culinary adventures. On the more traditional side of things, Cabo San Lucas’s Edith’s, where, for two decades, cuisine from Baja Californian and from the state

ON THE OPENING PAGE: There’s all sorts of fun happening in range of Cabo San Lucas’s famous arch.

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ON THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Acre’s eclectic menu; a bird’s eye view of the pool; surfing is a major state past-time; The Viceroy’s Nest Restaurant.

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ON THIS PAGE: Sunbathing on the Sea of Cortez; dining at Acre’s restaurant.

of Guerrero have been served with a stellar view of Medano Beach and Cabo San Lucas’s famed arch rock formation. At Cocina de Autor in the Grand Velas resort, Dutch chef Sidney Schutte experiments with Mexican and European ingredients, while Los Tamarindos, whose owner and executive chef Enrique Silva has been a local food pioneer for two decades, has been cooking up many of the products produced on Silva’s large property. For a more casual experience, visitors can enjoy cocktails and fish tacos shoulder-to-shoulder with locals at the funky El Marinero Borracho (The Drunken Sailor), near the artsy Hotel El Gonzo in La Playita outside San José del Cabo. Needless to say, seafood is the star attraction coming out of all these kitchens.

Exploring the many local beaches can be a full-time job itself. Los Zacatitos, on the east cape of Baja California Sur, is under-the-radar enough that you may find you have it all to yourself. Solmar Beach, next to the aptly named Divorce Beach and Lover’s Beach, is easy to get to and provides calm just steps beyond the busy Cabo San Lucas beach scene. For those with solid sea legs, there are an extraordinary number of boating excursions available, many of them originating from the large marina in the heart of Cabo San Lucas.

Road trips also abound. In La Paz, a small quirky city about twohours’ drive north, visitors can hire a boat to Espíritu Santo Island in the Gulf of California/Sea of Cortes. This UNESCO-protected biosphere reserve has some of Mexico’s most beautiful beaches where visitors can kayak, run with wild goats and swim with sea lions. About an hour’s drive from Cabo San Lucas, the town of Todos Santos has an artsy and hippie vibe, where surfers abound.

Art lovers needn’t venture that far though. San José hosts a weekly evening arts walk every Thursday from November to the end of June, with local shops staying open late for a refined street-party atmosphere.

“A lot of what’s new has been stylish and—I’m kinda tired of the term—chic,” says Watt.

But really, who tires of chic, especially beachside chic with food and scenery this good?

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ESSENTIAL LOS CABOS EXPERIENCES Established in 1996, Flora Farms is an organic farm in the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains outside San José del Cabo. In addition to the famous farm tours, cooking classes and locally sourced shopping, last year Flora Farms added spa offerings, with a wide range of spa services offered amongst the papaya trees and the herbs and flowers of the intimate spa garden. flora-farms.com During the Thursday evening Walk in San José del Cabo’s Art District, hipsters and jetsetters drop by the minimalist boutique hotel Drift San José for a maximalist taste of mezcal, carefully selected from some of the country’s best producers. driftsanjose.com The desert landscape of Baja California Sur is so starkly beautiful, why not take a camel ride through it? Of the many adventures offered at the Wild Canyon adventure park—boating, ziplining, ATV off-roading—this might be their most unusual experience. wildcanyon.com.mx

The pathway to the spa at the Los Cabos Montage.

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BOLD Partnerships

The stunning view of the pool; rich artwork inside the lobby; inside the loft suite room; aerial view of the resort at sunrise.

IT’S ALL

ABOUT ME T

he Sea of Cortez is its view, the stretches of sand, its oasis. The ME by Meliá, ME Cabo is the best of many worlds, a resort that takes much of its inspiration from fashion, art and music. But here, in Cabo San Lucas on the tip of the Baja peninsula, the hotel has wisely infused the spirit of Mexican culture and design into its otherwise Euro-modern sensibilities, for which this Spain-based, worldwide hotel brand is known.

An easy stroll to the nearby marina, the vibrant centre of Los Cabos and local artisans and shopping, yet it would be just as tempting to spend the day lingering on the beach, Playa El Medano, and watch the gentle waves do their dance.

Tempting too, is a dip in this ocean, as the typically rough waters of the Sea of Cortez are calm here, allowing mere mortals to swim and snorkel.

Even the décor is calming: a wash of pale blues, greys and whites, punctuated with bordeaux and champagne hues, reminding one of the sea and the sun and the sand, but that a little colour in one’s life is a must.

Speaking of Champagne, cocktails at the Rose Bar are a must, but go beyond the bubbles, and experience a different kind of the spirit, one that Mexico has perfected. Tequila—and its savoury cousin, mezcal, are shaken and stirred to suit.

Dinner is poolside, at the Blue Marlin Ibiza Los Cabos, a favourite local haunt, and now part of the ME complex. Of course, being Spanish, the hotel just can’t help itself by bringing a bit of the Ibiza nightlife to Mexico. After the sun sets, a DJ starts spinning, the night begins. Skip dessert and just dance the night away.

TO BOOK YOUR OWN PRIVATE PARADISE CALL 1-855-269-5374 OR VISIT WWW.MELIA.COM

Cabo

DISCOVER #THEMESCENE AT ME CABO. 162 ROOMS AND SUITES | ME+ SUITES WITH EXCLUSIVE VIP ACCESS | BLUE MARLIN IBIZ A BEACH CLUB & RESTAURANT | T WO-LEVEL POOL OASIS | YHI SPA | ON THE FAMOUS PL AYA EL MEDANO

Call 1.800.33.Melia or visit mebymelia.com CABO

IBIZ A LONDON MADRID MALLORCA MIAMI MIL AN DOHA (2019) DUBAI (2019) BARCELONA (2019)

SITGES

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THE

BEST OF THE BEST In partnership with BOLD, luxury travel network Virtuoso presents its awards for the world’s top hotel properties in 2018

E

ach year, the professional advisors of global luxury travel network Virtuoso vote on the world’s finest hotels and their excellence in several categories: design, dining, family, sustainability and more. Here, exclusively for BOLD magazine, the 12 th annual finalists and overall winners from the Virtuoso Best of the Best Awards, honouring the top hotels in the network’s portfolio of more than 1,300 around the world, from whimsical to wow, historic to haute. Read on for insider tips from Virtuoso’s expert travel advisors to help you travel like a savvy VIP. boldmagazine.ca

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BEST ACHIEVEMENT IN DESIGN Topping the list of eye-catching design is The Silo Hotel in Cape Town, set in the grain elevator portion of a historic grain silo complex, atop the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa.

Multi-faceted glass windows appear as if inflated and, at night, transform the building into a glowing, harbourside beacon. Inside, 28 colourful guest rooms designed by Thomas Heatherwick of London’s Heatherwick Studio frame Table Mountain and water views. Eccentric touches include fuchsia dressers, Persian carpets and (count them) 80 Egyptian crystal chandeliers.

Category finalists include the elegant Palácio Tangará, Oetker Collection in São Paulo, Brazil, which credits its contemporary design to leading Brazilian interior design firms Bick Simonato and Anastassiadis. Each room capitalizes on natural daylight and Burle Marx Park views. Maryland’s 1914 Beaux-Arts style Sagamore Pendry Baltimore defines “what’s old is new again,” striking a pose on historic Recreation Pier. Patrick Sutton Design has impeccably reimagined the boutique hotel, including the Grand Ballroom, arguably the city’s most breathtaking architectural space. Classic and contemporary converge at The Beekman, A Thompson Hotel in New York City, thanks to awardwinning designer Martin Brudnizki. The heart of the hotel is its nine-story atrium, capped by a painstakingly restored pyramidal skylight. The Fontenay Hamburg in Germany is a cutting-edge retreat on Lake Alster. Its swooping architecture, inner courtyard and 89-foot-high atrium allow for generous natural light and at least partial lake views from all guest rooms.

INSIDER TIP: “The Silo Hotel is one of my top five in the world. For a Cape Town sunset you’ll long treasure, head to the wraparound rooftop terrace with a glass of South African Pinotage.” —Wendy Davis, Zebrano Travel, Toronto

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BEST DINING EXPERIENCE Category winner The Restaurant at Meadowood Napa Valley is relentless in its quest to make each meal better than the last—and its three Michelin stars would suggest that the team is excelling. The perfect evening starts with a handcrafted cocktail or local bubbles before a feast of farm-totable specialties served in the main dining room or 10-guest private dining room. The wine list is impeccable, featuring Napa Valley’s finest, but also digging into the best in the world.

Finalist Aman Tokyo introduces Arva, conceived by executive chefs Stefano Artosin and Andrea Torre and echoing traditional Italian cooks who rely on their landscape for flavours and inspiration. With Blue Grotto views as spectacular as its Michelin-starred dishes, Il Riccio at Capri Palace is beloved for its sublime raw and cooked seafood delicacies.

Antibes’ finest seafood dining is tucked away in quaint Juan les Pins at the Hotel Belles Rives. Finish your meal with the award-winning dessert, “pearl in blown sugar shell.” Make plans early for dining at The London EDITION’s Berners Tavern, overseen by Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton and serving seasonal British favourites, including a succulent pork pie.

INSIDER TIP: “Chef Christopher Kostow at The Restaurant at Meadowood

Napa Valley has wowed me with his phenomenal Victor’s Almond Avocado Caviar, a rich, creamy almond custard base, topped with golden Ossetra and covered in a bright green avocado oil mixture.” — Bradley Janes, Travel

Professionals International, Vancouver

BOOK IT Find a travel advisor at virtuoso.com who can handle the bookings for these properties and secure you valuable complimentary benefits. boldmagazine.ca

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BEST BAR Make category winner The Donovan Bar at Brown’s Hotel, A Rocco Forte Hotel, your first stop for a nightcap in London. This longtime favourite has relaunched with a new menu from Salvatore Calabrese. Choose from 16 original cocktails divided into four sections: bright and refreshing, dark and mellow, strong and bold and soft and delicate. Go for Salvatore’s Martini, the famous bartender’s self-proclaimed masterpiece.

A fan of finalist Hotel Hassler in Rome, Princess Di once confessed her adoration of the Hassler Bar’s Bellini and signature Veruschkas; the cozy bar emanates a glam ’40s style at the top of the Spanish Steps. Accessible by hidden passageway, amidst collectors’ art and a selection of some of the world’s rarest spirits, The Office NYC in Mandarin Oriental, New York, offers mid20 th century Johnnie Walker whiskey and an extensive vintage Chartreuse collection. Step off the Bognergasse directly into The Bank Brasserie & Bar at the Park Hyatt Vienna for a worldly cocktail (Bora Bora Brew or a Lima Sour, perhaps) in a former cashier hall, complete with open show-kitchen views. Experience a slice of Dublin life at The Horseshoe Bar at The Shelbourne: a convivial ambience, decidedly Irish signature cocktails, a lucky charm-shaped bar and unbeatable whiskey tasting flights.

INSIDER TIP: “Take time for tea in Brown’s award-winning English Tea Room, where the royals have sipped their tea for generations. Book early and skip lunch as the food is amazing and continually replenished.” — Alyssa Jimenez, Fernweh Travel, an affiliate of TTI Travel, Vancouver

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BEST FAMILY PROGRAM With 6,000 acres of wild Montana meadows, mountains and forests as its backyard, category winner The Ranch at Rock Creek has kids riding horses, fishing and geocaching. “Little Grizzlies” learn about the Frontier West in age-appropriate activities. Rainy day? No problem. The Silver Dollar Saloon offers bowling, board games and movies, complete with popcorn. The saloon hosts kid dinners with crowd-pleasing favourites such as mac-and-cheese and barbecue chicken.

Stir the imagination in Cannes at finalist Hotel Barrière Le Majestic. Little minds will dream big after a day of cooking, photography, foreign language, music and more in a program celebrated for its innovative multicultural activities. Kids connect with the South Pacific’s cultural heritage through interactive water- and land-based activities at Kokomo Private Island Fiji.

Family time brings swimming, tennis, beach games and more. The ultimate four-season Pennsylvania escape, Nemacolin Woodlands Resort, spoils kids with a trampoline, arcade, carnival games and more. Bigger kids might seek the adrenaline rush of zip-lining or off-roading. What may have seemed like a quagmire—a familyfriendly resort in a romantic setting—is, in fact, a delightful reality at the Maldives’ Soneva Fushi, where the littlest are wooed by a pirate ship, Lego room, dress-up area, cinema and shallow pool.

INSIDER TIP: “Fishing families love the multigenerational angling experiences at The Ranch at Rock Creek. Gear and lessons are provided; even the wee ones are given a tyke’s fishing rod so they’re part of the action. Book months ahead of time during the peak season (July to early September).” —Ginger Blum, North South Travel & Tours, Vancouver

BEST WELLNESS PROGRAM Prior to arrival at white-sand wellness winner BodyHoliday Saint Lucia, guests craft the exact escape they seek from more than 200 spa treatments and activities. Five restaurants recognize that good food leads to healthy lives, focusing on locally sourced ingredients. Daily spa treatments are included, ranging from four-handed Abhyanga massages to Hara Shiatsu energy flow therapies.

Nestled in the majestic Himalayas, finalist Ananda provides a royally rejuvenating retreat, integrating Ayurveda, yoga and Vedanta into a personalized program of more than 80 treatments and activities—all overlooking the Ganges river valley. Chablè Resort & Spa’s sacred Yucatan cenote is the focal point for guests’ healing journeys. Using sustainable products, therapists intertwine traditional and ritual elements with advanced therapeutic practices. Spa goers are encouraged to recalibrate body and mind with immersive, week-long programs at The Ranch Malibu. From morning-long hikes to an organic, plant-based diet, the 18-guest program delivers sustainable results. Nature plays a central role at Switzerland’s cliffside Waldhotel Health & Medical Excellence, set high above Lake Lucerne. Drink in views of Mounts Rigi and Pilatus from the glassy infinity-edge pool, and indulge in elderberry compresses, blueberry oil massages and coffee-infused body wraps.

INSIDER TIP: “When you upgrade to the penthouse at BodyHoliday Saint Lucia, you’re entitled to priority seating at Cariblue and the award-winning Tao restaurant, set on an open-air balcony overlooking the sea.” —Carly Renshaw, Renshaw Travel, Vancouver

BOOK IT Find a travel advisor at virtuoso.com who can handle the bookings for these properties and secure you valuable complimentary benefits. boldmagazine.ca

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SUSTAINABLE TOURISM LEADERSHIP Partnering with a local farmer, producing its own mineral water and employing valley residents are just a few of the ways category winner Six Senses Douro Valley is committed to sustainability. The surrounding countryside is a UNESCO World Heritage site and home to nearly 3,500 different botanical species. Local is the word when it comes to the dining room, where the culinary team celebrates regional produce. Renowned wine and cuisine, locally inspired spa treatments (think grape and citrus fruit) and far-reaching views of Portugal’s rolling vineyards are the icing on the cake.

At finalist Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley, guests have access to a private 7,000-acre nature reserve in the Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area. Simply staying here is a step in a green direction; the resort is the first in the world to achieve the internationally accredited carbonneutral certification by CarbonZero. Dive with manta rays in their natural habitat at Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru, set in the Baa Atoll UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Work alongside leading marine experts to record essential information on these gentle giants. At Ecuador’s Mashpi Lodge, visitors are immersed in the surrounding forest and fauna, affording spectacular views through each room’s tall windows and triggering a renewed appreciation of the hidden wonders of life. In classic ’20s explorer style, Singita Grumeti—Sabora Tented Camp showcases the untouched wilderness of northern Tanzania, leaving each guest mindful of their personal contribution to Africa’s legacy. Limited guest and vehicle numbers, and funding for protection of land and wildlife populations, echo the camp’s commitment to “touch the earth lightly.”

INSIDER’S TIP: “Daily tastings in the Six Senses Wine Library showcasing the Douro Valley’s finest vintages are guided by an expert sommelier. The staff can also arrange wine tastings at local wineries.” —Cathy Davis, Zebrano Travel, Toronto

BEST VIRTUOSO NEWCOMER Félicitations to Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel, for topping this category, thanks to its dedication to the guest experience.

Within its Neoclassical façade, a top-notch team caters to every whim. Freshly renovated, with an eye toward tradition, this legendary palace on the Place de la Concorde boasts residentially styled, quintessential French accommodations.

The iconic Les Ambassadeurs is an inevitable rendezvous spot before a memorable dinner at L’Ecrin, one of Paris’ best-kept culinary secrets.

Portuguese wine-tastings, exploring ancient Roman ruins and tee times on the renowned Victoria Golf Course mark one’s time at finalist Anantara Vilamoura Algarve Resort. Practically every room at Kimpton Seafire Resort + Spa on Grand Cayman’s Seven Mile Beach welcomes in ocean views through floor-to-ceiling windows, including the spa’s grand soaking tub, set in its own airy enclave. With white-sand beach to one side and verdant rainforest to the other, The St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort promises whichever castaway experience you prefer, all with butler service, plus the Iridium Spa, featuring the Maldives’ largest hydrotherapy pool. A personal concierge for each guest at the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills handles every request, including treatments at the Spa by La Prairie and a table to enjoy the cuisine of Michelin-starred chef JeanGeorges Vongerichten.

INSIDER TIP: “Exclusive tastings, held every second Thursday, in the Hôtel de Crillon’s La Cave with Xavier Thuizat are not to miss. In an intimate group of 12, come face-to-face with the delicate nose of the head sommelier for an unforgettable journey devoted to a specific wine region or drink.” —Julia Kostina, Renshaw Travel, Vancouver

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HOTEL OF THE YEAR

When you stay at Hotel of the Year 2018 winner Adare Manor, you’re home. Every touch of this recently renovated Neo-Gothic architectural masterpiece speaks of prestigious, yet never pretentious personalized service. Set within 842 acres of verdant parkland, Adare features an indoor pool, state-of-the-art spa, a Tom Fazio-designed golf course on the River Maigue and extensive countryside pursuits, from falconry to fishing. In The Oak Room, the chef’s tasting menu takes the very best of Ireland’s artisan ingredients and pairs them with spectacular wines.

Finalists for Hotel of the Year include The Berkeley in London’s Knightsbridge neighbourhood; its bold accommodations, trendsetting restaurants and Bamford Haybarn Spa are the talk of the town. Elizabeth Taylor and Winston Churchill are among the notables who have signed the guestbook at the Grand-Hotel du Cap-Ferrat, A Four Seasons Hotel, a Riviera retreat boasting a lively pool club, Michelin-starred Provençal cuisine and spacious guest rooms, with views from Nice to Monaco. Swim with sharks, explore the heritage of Mauritius with a celebrated local artist, and shop the village market with the resort’s executive chef at One&Only Le Saint Geran, the totally transformed beach resort that’s every bit as loved by couples on retreat as families seeking quality time. The 53 uniquely decorated Moorish riads of the Royal Mansour Marrakech are accessed by staff via underground tunnels, guaranteeing the utmost discretion for each private residence.

Culinary flavours range from time-honoured local favourites to Chef Alleno’s haute cuisine.

INSIDER TIP: “To recreate as the locals do, arrange for a fly-fishing lesson with Adare Manor’s own expert ghillie. The culinary team will even specially prepare your catch for an unforgettable meal.” —Doug Musgrave, TTI Travel, Toronto.

BOOK IT Find a travel advisor at virtuoso.com who can handle the bookings for these properties and secure you valuable complimentary benefits. boldmagazine.ca

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TRAVEL INTEL Our tips and tricks to navigating the world

SMART GENEROSITY

How to give to the communities you visit without damaging the culture

BY LIZ FLEMING

T

ourism has become such a force in the world, it can transform local communities and cultures dramatically. Sometimes for the better, with more jobs and more cash in an economy.

But sometimes for the worse. In some places, children can make enough begging on the streets that their parents may be tempted to take them out of school. This can lock them into a cycle of poverty and expose them to exploitive situations. Here are some other things to consider when you want to travel more ethically.

Children are not tourism attractions

The ChildSafe Movement, operated by the Paris-based not-forprofit organization Friends-International, suggests avoiding visiting schools, orphanages or slums. Such visits can infringe on a child’s need for safety, privacy and stability. Instead, donate to a local nongovernment organization—sorry, but the time the children spend with a professional caregiver, educator or health practitioner will be more valuable than time spent with you.

Whether booking a three-week tour and just a day excursion, look for tour operators whose profits will benefit people from the area you’re visiting. Canadian-based G Adventures, for example, uses guides who are connected to the Indigenous cultures, and uses local businesses as suppliers. This helps the local people and also improves the quality of the experience—you’ll be learning about a place from people who have lived there for generations.

Follow local laws and customs

GRACIOUS GIFTING

If you’re travelling to a developing country, you might want to think about leaving behind more than your footprints. Below is a list of great—and some not-so-great—small gifts tourists often bring.

THE GREAT

Sure, authorities in areas dependent on tourism may turn a blind eye to public drinking, fence jumping or other minor infractions.

But obnoxious behaviour might be offensive to local people, and, over time, make the community less hospitable to visitors. Remember that your vacation playground is, in many cases, other people’s home.

Pencils, pens, coloured markers and other school supplies

Ensure no animals are harmed for your entertainment

Soap and other small toiletries

Look closely at opportunities to interact with animals, especially exotic animals. How are the animals treated when you’re not there? Is all that attention stressing the animal out? Avoid unlicenced zoos and any sanctuary that practices breeding for commercial trade and entertainment.

Leave no trace except your spending

It’s a given that visitors should never litter. But also, when possible, consider consuming locally produced products and services—a traditional beverage instead of one produced by a global company, footwear made by local craftspeople instead of an international brand. If your suitcase has a busted zipper, take it to a local seamstress or cobbler. All these efforts will help reduce the carbon footprint of your journey.

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Toothbrushes and toothpaste Small notebooks Gently used clothing and shoes Small, sturdy toys Children’s books (for those learning English)

THE NOT SO GREAT Candy and gum Toys requiring batteries or WiFi Electronics that may not be compatible with local power supply How to distribute your gifts? It’s best either to work through a recognized aid group or to connect with the manager at your hotel who can offer connections to local schools and shelters.

Illustration by Laura García

Choose guides and operators led by and employing Indigenous people

BOLD QUERY ARE THERE COUNTRIES WHERE TIPPING IS CONSIDERED RUDE? In Japan, where excellent service is a national fixation, offering a tip is an insult, implying that you were expecting less than you received. French Polynesia is another place where tipping is neither expected nor welcomed; you might find your money handed back to you. Countries like Switzerland, Belgium, Brazil, Australia and New Zealand not only have higher wages for the service industries, but also include service in the prices at restaurants, bars and hotels, so nothing additional is expected.

In China, tipping is not expected, but since tour guides and waiters are paid very little, tips are much appreciated.

SURVIVING THE FAMILY ROAD TRIP Oh, the happy childhood travel memories for those of a certain generation! Stuffed into the back seat of the station wagon, wedged tightly between car-sick, squabbling siblings, the packed lunch and the dog. These days, families climbs into a sleek SUV or cavernous mini-van and pops each kid into a captain’s seat, separated from all siblings. Built-in video screens entertain, temperature controls swing into action. Shouldn’t all be merry and bright?

Still the squabbling continues. Kids will be kids.

But discomfort and discord don’t have to be the essence of a family holiday. Some planning can mean the difference between the drive from hell and the holiday to remember.

DIVIDE AND CONQUER Bringing a big bag of snacks is good, but bringing many small, individually portioned bags is brilliant. No passing around and no reluctant sharing.

WATER WORKS Juice boxes are a fave, but they’re full of sugar and guaranteed to rev up an already antsy child. Fill reusable water bottles and add a piece of orange to sweeten things up. The big bonus? You can’t squeeze a hard plastic water bottle the way you can a soft juice box, so you’ll avoid juice volcanoes.

LESSEN YOUR GREAT EXPECTATIONS Yes, driving for six hours straight will get you to your vacation house by mid-afternoon.... but you’ll arrive with a carload of cranky people. Instead, plan for a couple of leg-stretching, blow-off-steam stops. Follow an exit to a small town and find a park. Pull out a ball and play with your children for half an hour. Raining? McDonald’s has ball rooms designed to defuse the crankiest kids.

SURPRISES! Bringing fave toys, tablets, videos and video games is a great way to keep kids busy. But blowing $10 at a dollar store for a couple of new treats will provide some novelty that can defuse the backseat blues.

DO YOU KNOW WHERE YOUR IDENTITY IS?

50

PERCENTAGE

of travellers who said they probably wouldn’t be aware if their identity was stolen while travelling

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PERCENTAGE

who weren’t sure what would be needed to restore their identity

50

PERCENTAGE

who say they’re very fearful of losing their passports

63

PERCENTAGE

of people who have lost their passport at one time

PACKING POWER CUBED

Living out of a suitcase as we move from one hotel to the next loses its appeal in a hurry. Searching for that elusive shoe or buried T-shirt can become a daily frustration, unless you make packing cubes from TravelPro your travel go-to.

Generally sold in sets of three (large, medium and small), these zippered packing cubes help organize your gear. Undies, socks and bathing suits go in the small cube. T-shirts and lightweight tops go in the mid-sized cube. The genius bit: shoes and belts go in the large. That leaves only larger clothing items to roam free in your bag. If you stack the pants and skirts and then fold them in half, they’ll be corralled, while the dress and heavier jackets can top the pile. Add your bathroom kit and you’re set.

Each time you switch hotels, hang up the jackets and dresses, put your cubes on the extra bed, lay the pants/skirts beside them and enjoy the convenience of knowing exactly where each item of your clothing is.

Repacking for your next move will take just moments. Available at caasco.com.

Bonus tip: Bring along two empty plastic grocery bags, one for your white and lights laundry, the other for the darks. You’ll arrive home with your laundry pre-sorted.

— From a study by dragonfly id, a Canadian identity theft prevention firm boldmagazine.ca

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BY CARLSON WAGONLIT TRAVEL

Everybody Loves Sunshine Here are five tropical hotspots that are easy to travel to… but not so easy to forget.

BOLD Traveller Promotion in partnership with boldmagazine.ca

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PLANNING

Photo by JP Barcelos

Soaring over the pier in Grace Bay, Providenciales, Turks and Caicos.

SUN (RE)SET Five Blissful Beaches to Visit

BY CATHERINE DUNWOODY

A

beach vacation is one of the most restorative, restful and rejuvenating ways to reset your stressed-out system. There’s nothing quite like it. Sinking your toes into the sand, soaking up some sunny vitamin D, breathing in that salty air and bobbing along in warm turquoise waves. A glorious getaway, even if you’re not the sun-worshipping type, can be had by pretty much anyone.

The spectacular setting, the variety of fun-fuelled activities, encountering abundant marine life, the opportunity to explore and discover your own little slice of heaven—it all adds up to creating a very personal experience. Sun and surf are just plain good for the soul. Here are five tropical hotspots that are easy to travel to… but not so easy to forget. And that’s a good thing.

Maya Bay, Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

Ka’anapali Beach, Maui, Hawaii

A chain of 365 cays spread over about 100 miles (161 kilometres) in the Bahamas makes up the Exumas. One particularly lovely beach is the Tropic of Cancer Beach. Seemingly endless, this stunner is where the first Pirates of the Caribbean movie was shot. A peaceful crescent of white sand that frames a blue-green bay along the coast of Little Exuma Island, and located at 23 26N 75 35W, the beach is named after the meridian line that defines the northern extent of the tropics and crosses right through it. Ideal for the beach purist, this is sure to become your happy place, and when you return back home, you’ll go there every time you need to—in your mind, anyway.

Located on Maui’s northwestern shore, this two-mile (3.2-kilometre) stretch of beach has so much to do and offer. Ka’anapali is ideal for the person who likes to do it all, and even all in one day. Resorts and condo stays are available at a range of luxury levels. Catch the sunset at any of the restaurants on the paved beach walk or perhaps shop at Whalers Village shopping center. Snorkel and diving rental shops can gear you up fast to explore Black Rock, which you access by toddling right off the beach into one of the island’s best spots to swim with exotic tropical fish and turtles in a calm, protected environment. Swimming and sunbathing (with plenty of sunscreen, of course) is fabulous year round.

Grace Bay Beach, Turks & Caicos Just 550 miles (885 kilometres) southeast of Miami, Florida, and near the Dominican Republic, the Turks and Caicos islands are actually located in the Atlantic Ocean, not the Caribbean, as some think.

Turks and Caicos consists of 40 islands and cays. Only eight are inhabited—and one is the island of Providenciales, where Grace Bay Beach is located on the northeast coast. Often appearing on Top-10 Beaches lists for very good reason, the area boasts three miles (4.8 kilometres) of protected, sandy stretch with no rocks or seaweed, ideal for swimming, walking and running. No reef means it’s not ideal for snorkelling, but you can find that elsewhere in the area, of course. This beach is about postcard-worthy beauty, so take it in, in all its glory.

Turks is ideal for the glamour seeker who loves all things luxurious and whose posted vacay selfies are known for making friends green with envy. Visitors should bear in mind that hurricane season runs from June 1 to November 30. Work around those dates and you’ll find this to be every bit the paradise you’re hoping for.

Remember when you saw Leonardo DiCaprio in The Beach, and decided right then and there that you’d make it to this beach one day?

Well, here you are, and you do have fabulous taste. This pristine bay on the tiny island (koh) of Phi Phi is surrounded by vertical, 328-foot (100-metre) cliffs on three sides, with the main beach of baby-powder white sand only 656 feet (200 metres) long. The entire bay is a coral reef, meaning colourful marine life surrounds you the moment you dip your snorkel and mask into the crystal-clear water. It’s a busy beach, indeed, as sailboats and long-tail boats are often used to transport people in and out. But it’s so beautiful that it’s well worth spending some time at, nonetheless.

Tropic of Cancer aka Pelican Beach, Exumas, Bahamas

Seven Mile Beach, Negril, Jamaica Jamaica’s longest beach, 20 acres (8.1 hectares) in fact, is very likely it’s most beautiful. Facing directly west on Negril, this endless stretch of soft gold is loved by locals and tourists alike. Dotted with a few bars, restaurants and resorts, the beach also allows nude sunbathing, if that’s your thing. Sheltered by its Caribbean reef, that means a glass-like smooth surface is pretty much a given. Think gentle lapping of waves rather than crashing surf. That may well be one of the most meditative sounds around. Way back in the day, pirates ruled the beach, but you don’t have to be concerned about that. Now, you can sip your fancy rum punch in perfect, reggae-fuelled peace.

Relaxing and recharging doesn’t just start when you arrive at your destination. It can start at the trip-planning stage when you work with one of our CWT Travel Advisors. We’ll handle every detail of your trip, from the day that planning begins until the day you’re home.

We’ll do anything to give you peace of mind and make your time away a true escape.

FOR FURTHER DETAILS AND RESERVATIONS CONTACT A CWT TRAVEL ADVISOR OR CALL 1.800.CARLSON

WORTH TRAVELLING FOR

BRIGHT IDEAS

n a recent visit to Shanghai, I was impressed by the light show that plays across the buildings of the city’s financial district. But then I took in Hong Kong’s Symphony of Lights from a yacht in the middle of Victoria Harbour and realized: Ah, this is the one! The one that inspired so many other cityscape light shows. Buildings in the financial district, and in the other neighbourhoods sweeping out around us, seemed to talk to each other through patterns of flashing, skittering and streaming light.

A bustling business district for more than 175 years, the skyscrapers and lesser high-rises on Hong Kong Island represent multiple eras of architectural styles, the rise and fall of various financial institutions, the boom and bust of multiple generations of market trends and the meeting of East and West. The depth and texture of what’s been built here—not so cleanly planned as, say, Shanghai and Dubai—reveals the power of the marketplace to shape the landscape, to constantly surprise us with the dialogue between the old and the new.

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The Norman Foster-designed HSBC Main Building, controversially clunky-looking when it was finished in 1985, has since been out-glammed by the 70-storey Bank of China Tower, which opened in 1990, out-weirded by the octagonal twin towers of the Lippo Centre, completed in 1988, and dwarfed by the likes of the 118-storey International Commerce Centre and the 88-storey Two International Finance Centre, which opened in 2010 and 2003 respectively.

But when the light show, which was revamped last year, starts at 8pm each night, all these rivals work harmoniously together to stir awe across the whole city, residents and visitors alike, whether they’re still in the midst of high-level-acquisition negotiations, dining at The Peninsula or emerging from a day inside a series of interconnected luxury malls.

Tip: The theme music, which is played on speakers in parts of the harbourfront and through an app, has an integral role in tying the searchlights, lasers and LED screens and lighting together into a coherent and transportive piece of art. Listen as well as look. —PAUL GALLANT

Photo courtesy of the Hong Kong Tourism Board

O

Victoria Harbour, Hong Kong

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