TRIED AND TESTED
Where’s the beef?
See the winners of our first TTMYGY Photo Contest!
INSIDE
MAR 14 | volume 1, Issue 03
Presidential Chef Sukijo Goes Down Memory Lane Arimbi and Indita Show Us Beef Primal Cuts Cook The Perfect Steak PDT’s Jeff Bell Tells All www. thefoodiemag.com | 1
TRIED AND TESTED
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TRIED AND TESTED
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P U B L I S H E R ’ S N OT E
“MMM...�
“Mmmm‌â€? is usually the first thing I say after a first bite off a perfectly cooked steak, which apparently was also the title I thought of for the magazine some oddyears ago. I like talking about how growing up was such a big part of a person being a Foodie. In order for that to be true we need to agree on what the definition of a “Foodieâ€? actually is. Today, they (or we) are often seen as some pompous ass trying to be a knowit-all. Giving unsolicited criticism to a meal that someone has labored over to serve on the table and thinking that our criticism helps them to be a better cook. Do I deny doing that? No. Does that make a person a Foodie? Definitely not! At the core, the key characteristic of any Foodie is simply “appreciationâ€?. I lived by the philosophy “eat first, ask questions laterâ€? and because of this I have learned to appreciate a wide spectrum of flavors, from sour pickled onions that made my face convulse into a wrinkly puckered face, to the diabetically inducing sweetness of Julab Jamun and the extremely salty street foods of south east Asia. Do I like these extreme dishes? Let me just say that I’ll eat them and keep it at that. But it is because of these flavor-encounters that have made me appreciate good food. It is like finding refuge after a hard and stressful day, it is the best friend that you tell your crap to at the end of the day and find yourself laughing it off. This is probably why I have such a deep appreciation for beef dishes. A well-cooked beef stew is slow-cooked for hours marinating in a pot of flavorful broth. When they say that you need to cook with love, you would often find that love in a beautifully cooked beef stew. A great steak however is like sex in your mouth. So enjoy this issue dedicated to the Divine Bovine. Savor the Flavor.
Publisher Richmond Blando Editor-at-Large Jed V. Doble Art Director Juke Bachtiar Editor Rafael Reyes Photographer Dennie Benedict Contributors Himawan Sutanto Melanie Tanusetiawan Rian Farisa Ellyna Tjohnardi Indita Probosutedjo Arimbi Nimpuno Dalia Kuwatly Administration Boedy Astuti Distribution Mukti Pelupessy
Nuff Said, RICHMOND BLANDO
PT. NUSA BINTANG LESTARI 7Y 4b[NdN_ZN[ [\ # { 8RONf\_N[ /N_b @\baU 7NXN_aN { 6[Q\[R`VN Tel: +62 21 2905 3959 www.boldprintspublishing.com
Photograph by HIMAWAN SUTANTO
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A WEEK OF AUSTRALIAN WAGYU C’s Steak & Seafood Restaurant, 24 – 30 March 2014
C’s new Chef de Cuisine Matt Demery showcases the ever famous Australian Wagyu dish varieties. Extensive selections of this marbled and tasty cut are available for lunch and dinner. Our new Director of Food & Beverage, Alex Sheppard, personally recommends the Tomahawk Wagyu to be paired with our wines from the Margaret River region in Western Australia to complete the exquisite dining experience. For more information and reservations, please call +62 21 2992 1234, 5020 1234 ext. 8-3400 Hyatt. You’re More Than Welcome
E D I TO R ’ S N OT E
where’s the beef? I think I have to agree with Richmond that every time I take a bite out of a perfectly cooked steak is a TTMYGY (Things That Make You Go Yum) moment. Tender and succulent, a good steak will always bring a smile to my face. That said, we dedicate this issue to the divine bovine and have christened it our Where’s The Beef issue! It is now fairly easy to get oneself a good steak. Our friends Afit and Lucy at Holycow! Steakhouse are making sure of that. Their mission to provide great quality steaks at an affordable price is catching on. Because of them, wagyu is now on the vocabulary of ZN[f 6[Q\[R`VN[` 8RR] Va b] Tbf` We are lucky to have on board, mother and daughter tandem, Arimbi and Indita Probosutedjo who share with us the different primal cuts of beef. Now with this guide, you will no longer wonder about the difference between a flank, chuck or ribeye steak. We are also very fortunate, that after searching far and wide, we found the illusive former presidential chef, Sukijo. Surprisingly enough, he runs a steak house now. Read our article on him as he goes down memory lane and shares with us his wonderful experiences serving five Indonesian presidents. A topic close to my heart, many of you may know, is my love for cocktails. Recently, I was fortunate to have had the chance to sit and chat with Jeff Bell, head bartender at New York’s famous Please Don’t Tell (PDT) speakeasy. Jeff tells all about himself, PDT and even shares with us the recipe of his award-winning Lion’s Den cocktail. Also in this month’s Tried and Tipsied section, we feature Potato Head Garage’s Rhys Wilson as he imparts three terrific cocktails which go very well with steaks. Check out the winners of our first TTMYGY photo contest! In February, we asked our readers to submit their best #TTMYGY _ wheresthebeef photos. We have are announcing the three winners and we will share in a future issue where they found the beef! Lastly, as always, the issue is peppered with a number of very easy and interesting recipes from our chef friends and even our publisher. Go try them out. If you do, don’t forget to take a snapshot and tag it #TTMYGY and post it on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter. That’s enough typing, talking about all these beef has gotten me hungry. I am gonna grab me a steak! Enjoy the issue! Happy eating! JED V. DOBLE Editor at Large
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C O N T R I B U TO R S
THE GUEST LIST HIMAWAN SUTANTO Photographer
RIAN FARISA Writer
MELANIE TANUSETIAWAN Photographer
ELLYNA TJOHNARDI Writer
Dalia Kuwatly Indita Probosutedjo Writers
Himawan did portraiture for editorial, advertising and design clients for many years and also had a stint doing commercial photography. His love for food and travel brought him naturally to turn his lens on food and lifestyle which he thoroughly enjoys. He has recently been traveling to take photos for a global hotel chain. When not away shooting photos he tries to spend as much time with his newborn son.
Once a foodie, always a foodie. Rian started his popular food blog gastronomyaficionado.com in 2009. He has since become a culinary contributor for lifestyle and inflight magazines and newspapers. His job ranges from having intriguing conversations with celebrity chefs to memorizing the French names of Michelin-starred dishes he encounters. But at the end of the day he enjoys his scouring the city for good soul food with his beloved wife.
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Melanie graduated from Melbourne’s RMIT with a Bachelor of Arts in Photography and is well known for her vivid dreamlike imagination. Her love for simple living, food and people is reflected through her lifestyle work. She has also been actively involved in exhibitions and has won various awards. www.studio-melt.com
Ellyna is knee-deep in a love- hate relationship with food (like most girls are), she started my food blog culinarybonanza. com more than 2 years ago. As an acute sweet tooth, she has no difficulty eating dessert as the main course. Despite being Asian, she believes that she was born with a Westerner’s palate because of inexplicable affinity for bread, wheat and cheese instead of rice and noodles.
Dalia and Indita are two of the four founders of the food blog, Tasteritos. Because they were in three different continents, the blog’s initial idea was to review restaurants from all around the world. But soon the blog expanded to various topics, such as local product reviews and food talks. Tasteritos has contributed to a number of Indonesiabased magazines and will grow to expand its global coverage and present more unpretentious topics on food to its readers. http://tasteritos.tublr. com/
TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
The Foodie magazine volume 1, Issue 02
Things That Make You Go Yum 12
Where’s The Beef?
The Foodie’s List 14 16 18 20
Sana Sini Restaurant Mango Tree Bistrobar El Asador The Cook Shop
Cover Feature: Where’s The Beef? 22 28 % 40 44 46
Primal Cuts Chef Fany’s Market Visit /\cV[R .[Na\Zf | 8[\d f\b_ ORRS Let Them Eat Steak! Foodology: The Perfect Steak Power Slim Versus Ellyna - Who Wins?
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TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
Went There Ate That 48 Taipei Food Adventures
Tried and Tipsied 52 Please Do Tell 56 Potato Head
The Finer Things 60 THE Steak House
Culture 62 Well Done
Taking It To The Streets 66 Jakarta Food Truck #% /NaNT\_ 8V[T`YRf
Iconic 70 Miranda
Confessions of A Foodie 72 Umi Fadilah
Maya’s Musings 74
An Energy-Packed Steak Salad
Tried and Tested 78 Dream (gravy)Boat & The SidekickS 81 Do Try This At Home
Stuff of Legends 84 Sukijo – The Presidential Chef
Pantry 101 88 Sauces For The Red Heaven
What Chef Eats 90 Michael Whyag
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Things That Make You Go Yum is monthly column featuring our choices of the best
by JED DOBLE
food photos on Instagram. If you think you have a great photo worth sharing with us, tag it with #TTMYGY and @TheFoodieMag
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first prize @myfunfoodiary mullie marlina Buddyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Special Steak
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Congratulations to the winners of our first TTMYGY photo contest! Please email us your contact details to claim your prizes. info@thefoodiemag.com
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2n E PRIZ SECOND prize @antzl33 Anthony lee Beef Rendang Roll
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3r E PRIZ THIRD prize @Nvicl natasha V. L My 1st attempt of Grilled Mozzarella Stuffed Hamburg Steak. Yum! www. thefoodiemag.com | 13
F O O DI E L I S T S
01 SANA SINI RESTAURANT by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
After an exhaustive renovation, the Pullman Jakarta Indonesia has unveiled their all-day dining restaurant and has plenty of pleasant surprises behind the new design. Care to travel inside with us?
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our will marvel upon seeing the new Sana Sini Restaurant of Pullman Jakarta Indonesia for the first time. Part of an extensive renovation the hotel undertook two years ago, including all of the public spaces, guest rooms and ballroom. The hotel lobby itself is presented lavishly and has plenty of attractions around it such as Le Chocolat PU\P\YNaR Y\b[TR N[Q 8RZVea_V 4N`a_\ /N_ All of that is complemented by an all-day dining restaurant tucked in the corner with an intriguing vibe that draws the attention of its patrons. I was actually wondering why at first the hotel did not plan to have specialty restaurant like many hotels around, but instead the hotel opted to combine four micro restaurants that serve Indonesian, Mediterranean, Chinese, and Japanese cuisines inside a single entity and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why the name Sana Sini came up perfectly. Sana Sini means â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Here and Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s actually the mission set for anybody who comes into this restaurant. Patrons, I believe, will enjoy their time here walking around the world in search for good food and Sana Sini has so many surprises. The
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four micro restaurants are all represented with open kitchens and each is elaborately designed with unique distinctions even to the point where the seating areas and plates are also custom designed. The open kitchen concept is also adopted by Sana Sini and applied to all the micro restaurants there. Occasionally you will stumble upon the chefs of each turf preparing the dishes and are open for any kind of request from the customers. Quoting Stephane Duguet-Lesvignes, the Director of F&B of Pullman Jakarta Indonesia, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;With people watching, it becomes a constant reminder for the chefs to keep up the high standard.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;
The establishment has been wellknown for its Japanese heritage for generations and Philippe Le Bourhis as the General Manager of the hotel confidently assured that the legacy lives on and that Japanese cuisine becomes the pride at Sana Sini Restaurant also. With a modern touch, the Japanese section becomes attractive with colors from rich sushi rolls and the traditional sashimi selections. In the Chinese section, I was particularly in awe with the quality of both the roast duck and the char siu chicken, each in harmony with the sweet hoi sin sauce. While in the Mediterranean area, I witnessed so many delightful choices that
F O O DI E L I S T S everyone would be tempted to do several rounds here. Ultimately, one must not miss the satays from the Indonesian counter and selection of sambal to complement the rice dish that you can assemble personally there. Afterwards, head to the dessert section for the homemade ice cream and cakes presented in front of an open bakery or perhaps just the assortment of cheeses with dried fruits, if you are in a Continental mood. Sana Sini was designed with full deliberation on every angle and successfully created a restaurant with an open atmosphere but also provided some privacy for the customers who need it. The restaurant has several semi-private parts with intimate booths and sofas within a warm and stylish environment. In the end, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an intricate design that successfully marries the needs of customers alongside a myriad of dishes available all day. Thus, to travel around the world at Sana Sini becomes a must-try for simply everyone.
SANA SINI RESTAURANT | Pullman Jakarta Indonesia, Jalan M.H. Thamrin 59, Jakarta - Indonesia | +62 21 3192 1111 www.pullmanjakartaindonesia.com | Twitter: @SanaSiniPullman
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F O O DI E L I S T S
02 MANGO TREE BISTROBAR by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
The recently opened Mango Tree Bistrobar in Plaza Senayan revealed a compact venue with an atmosphere that’s suitable for any occasion - be it for casual lunch, an intimate dinner or just a couple of drinks with friends. The exciting combination between delectable Thai cuisine and intriguingly concocted libations is a must try.
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or many, venturing into the posh Plaza Senayan mall would be reserved for specialty shopping or the cinema, but recently, the top floors of the mall has been playing host to a wide array of restaurants catering to various palates. It’s newest resident, Mango Tree Bistrobar surprisingly feels open and presents great options at a very affordable price range. The interiors are dark yet welcoming,
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the left side is lined with round cubicles that offer a private feel, while the right side has banquet seating. The white brick walls are punctuated by bright artwork, which give the dining room a kick of energy. Deeper inside, an open kitchen is positioned faceto-face with the bar and in-between, a huge screen that may probably be used for lively nobar (nonton bareng, literally means ‘watch together’) events on football matches or perhaps, muay thai. While you may not feel the traditional Thai atmosphere, common at most Thai restaurants, upon browsing the menu, expect to confuse yourself with a full
range of tempting Thai cuisine. During our visit, everyone enjoyed the rejuvenating spicy papaya salad with salted egg and soft shell crab with mango salad, which we had for our starters. Then we continue with the elegantly complex deep fried sea bass and tamarind sauce. For us, this is definitely the wow dish that everyone must not miss while here. And to end, we had everybody’s favorite – the durian panna cotta. From the long bar, Mango Tree Bistrobar has brought internationally acclaimed mixologist Joseph Boroski to create a set of Thai-inspired cocktails to compliment the food. Joseph’s concoctions are well-known
F O O DI E L I S T S throughout many properties around the world and his know-how with Thai culture made his creations an essential addition to Mango Tree Bistrobar cocktails. Among some of his best for Mango A_RR /V`a_\ON_ N_R aUR :bNf AUNV 8VPX aUNa mixes bourbon, lemon grass, gula Melaka and pandan that appears beautiful and fragrant, or can also opt for the Silk Spun Sister made from vodka, Thai basil, mulberry and candy floss. The Mango Tree global signature cocktails with the Thai influence are also of great options while youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re here. The Mango Tree Bellini consists of vodka, schnapps, fresh mango, orange juice, and red wine; while Thai Caipirinha is made from vodka, pineapple juice, lychee juice, coriander, and ginger ale. A lethal combination just like we told you earlier, right? Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no need to wait any longer for a visit here then.
MANGO TREE BISTROBAR | Plaza Senayan, Jalan Asia Afrika no. 8 - Jakarta | +62 21 572 5217 www.mangotreebistro.co.id | Facebook: Mangotree Bistro Indo
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F O O DI E L I S T S
03 EL ASADOR by RICHMOND BLANDO
6S f\b ]N`` Of 8RZN[T \SaR[ most likely you have passed by El Asador and thought to yourself that you will try out this restaurant out one of these days.
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l Asador serves South American authentic “parillas” or barbequed meats cooked on top of real wood fire grills. They serve meats like short ribs (asado), rib eye (churasco), inside skirt (entrania), flank (vacio), chicken (pollo), and homemade South American style sausages (chorizos). But being in Indonesia, the pork element is not found in any of their dishes. It is either a glass half-full or half-empty, depending what you are looking for. Their cuisine pays homage to authentic Argentinean and Uruguayan cuisine that have been handed down for generations. If you do decide to come, it is good to know that they are closed on Mondays and their all-you-can-eat menu is only available at night, so it will serve you well to plan your trip there. However, if you are after just good oldfashioned South American barbeque then come after 11 a.m. The service was great and personable and my server was able to make a
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suggestion that was right for that time of the day. We ordered the Breakfast Burrito Carne and the Sirloin steak to go along with our Vojitos, which was a mojito with Vodka. While waiting for the orders to come I explored the restaurant and red bricks dominated the walls, which went well with their “open fire” motif. Photos of what I can only assume as South American famous figures and artists. Next to the bar was a small drum set which I assumed was used for entertainment. Some nights they have Latin music performers and some nights they even have Latino dance nights like salsa. The Vojitos came first, it was refreshing on a hot afternoon and the vodka was generous, I’d go back to this restaurant for
this dish. I enjoyed the burrito a lot, it was well balanced at every bite but was a bit too much for one person and I had to take the left over home. The steak made my friend wish that she ordered the rib eye or some other cut, the flavor was there but the meat was a bit tough, but I cannot find fault with them, since my server did suggest I get the tenderloin that day. Overall verdict… it was great food at the price they offered. I can imagine this place being packed at night. In truth, it’s too early for me to make any lasting impression since I have to try them at their best, which is at night. But as far as I can tell, I will make another trip here to fulfill my meat cravings.
F O O DI E L I S T S
29 .@.1<? i 7NYN[ 8RZN[T ?NfN ;\ 8RZN[T =\V[a /bVYQV[T 4_\b[Q 3Y\\_ 7NXN_aN +62 21 718 2206 | www.elasador.co.id
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F O D DI E L I S T S
04 the cook shop by RIAN FARISA
When steakhouses become too mainstream, then itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time for the hybrid meat shop. Meet The Cook Shop, a place where you can find fine beef cuts and a restaurant under the same roof! 20 | www. thefoodiemag.com
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f you ever feel bored of buying local meat with the same cut over and over again, be it at your usual butcher at the wet market or the local supermarket, then it is time for you to try something new. Interestingly enough, within the past few years, Jakarta has seen the emergence of the fresh, hybrid concept of meat shop and restaurant at the same place. The Cook Shop is one of them. A member of the Japfa Group, a well-known manufacturer of dairy and poultry products, The Cook Shop products range from fresh milk, chicken nuggets, seafood, and even beef and unagi. The beef in particular, come from locally grown Australian cows, brought here when were around 18 months old. Two brands of beef available here are Santori and Tokusen - the latter came from wagyu breed. Some of the cuts are
familiar to Indonesians such as the oxtails or silverside corned beef. The tenderloin cuts come from the elite Tokusen line and divided into several marbling categories. Additionally, smoked beef and bacon are also available here alongside less popular cuts such as shin and knuckle. Another thing that makes The Cook Shop worth the visit is its private restaurant, available at your disposal for minimum reservation of 10 people and three days in advance. The restaurant serves a menu according to what the guests wish and it is said that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always fully booked during Ramadhan. On regular basis, this part of The Cook Shop is often used as a venue for cooking classes or shoots involving famous local chefs like Chef Arnold Poernomo and the Australian Masterchef Junior contestants Isabella and Sofia Bliss.
F O O DI E L I S T S
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
PRIMAL CUTS
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by ARIMBI NIMPUNO PROBOSUTEDJO AND INDITA PROBOSUTEDJO photographs by HIMAWAN SUTANTO All meat products provided by RANCH MARKET
Often times, consumers are confused of the difference between Fillet Mignon and Tenderloin. How is T-Bone compared to Rib Eye? How can one cow produce so many different textures, flavors and values of meat? In this article, we will elaborate in the simplest explanation, various cuts of meat and how to cook them in the best possible way.
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
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Sirloin
Sirloin is located on the back of a cow, just past the loin. Sirloin is a very popular tender cut of beef. On this part of the meat, the fat is usually found more on the side of the beef. Because of the structure of the meat, this cut is best grilled, but can also be broiled, sautéed or pan-fried.
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Rib eye
Rib eye is taken from the rib section of a cow. It is a beef steak sliced from the rib primal of a cow. The term rib eye steak is used for a rib steak with the bone removed. The rib eye or “ribeye” was originally, as the name implies, the center best portion of the rib steak, without the bone. It is both flavorful and tender, coming from the lightly worked upper rib cage area.
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Short Ribs
Short ribs are also cut from the rib section, closer to the shank, which is the leg of a cow. Other types of short ribs include hanger steak and skirt steak. This type of meat contains a lot of cartilage and is rather tough. It is best to cook this braised, marinated, and grilled over charcoal, sometimes also boiled in broth. A modern way to cook short ribs is through sous-vide, up to 72 hours.
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Tenderloin
Tenderloin is cut right on the back of the cow, typically a portion of the hindquarter, directly behind the ribs. Since the muscle in this part of the meat does not get much activity, it becomes the most tender part of the beef. Similar to tenderloin cuts are fillet mignon, porterhouse and T-bone. This part is best cooked over dry heat.
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Bone-In Rib Eye
These are steaks cut from the rib section of the cow, with the rib or bone left on. In the US, for example, a bone-in rib eye is known as ‘Cowboy Cut,’ whereas in Australia it is called a ‘Scotch Fillet.’ With the bone still attached, these cuts are known to be very flavorful and are tender as they have a lot of marbling. This cut is very good for slow roasting and grilling.
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Top Round
A lean cut of meat with very little fat, located at the back of the cow near the rear leg. It is rather tough and best cooked roasted, with low levels of moisture. It takes longer to cook, in order to produce more tender meat. The To Round is commonly used to make Rendang.
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Chuck
Chuck, also known as Seven-Bone steak, is located near the shoulder and neck area of the cow. It contains collagen, which provides great flavor, although can be quite tough when not cooked properly. The chuck is best for slow-cooked dish or through crock pot.
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Oxtail
Oxtail refers to the tail of the cow. Because it is very bony, it becomes very rich in taste, which makes for a perfect stock. The high gelatin content in this part of the cow also makes it ideal for slow-cooking, by stewing or braising the meat through various ways such as pressure cooking in long period of time and with liquid. For instance, soups, stews or beef stocks.
Wagyu versus ordinary beef The literal meaning of Wagyu is Japanese cow. There are several types of Wagyu, which include 8\OR :V`UVZN :Na`b`NXN <ZV N[Q Sanda beef. Of course, they are more expensive because of different breeding and feeding techniques, such as massaging and adding beer to their feeding regiment. Wagu beef also contains a higher percentage of Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids, much higher than a regular beef. Besides Japanese Wagyu, Australia and US is also known for their tender beef, which is known as Australian Wagyu and Angus, respectively. Their diet mostly consists of corn, alfalfa, barley and wheat. The easiest way to differentiate is by looking at the fat spread throughout the meat, also known as marbling. A normal beef, on the other hand, rarely has any marbling in it, and most of the fat is gathered on one side of the meat. For the high-quality standard beef, there are prime grade and choice grade. Prime-grade beef is made from young, well fed cattle. Choice-grade beef has less marbling and will turn out as less tender if over-cooked.
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
Chef Fanyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Market Visit by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
It was a fun culinary field trip as we joined Chef Fany Hermawan while he shopped at a local market. The bigger treat was when we took him home with us and he whipped up a fantastic beef dish on the fly!
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t seems to me, a trip to a traditional market is an experience that some people would rather avoid for the sake of comfort. Nowadays, supermarkets are everywhere and it is easier to just fling yourself inside on of these modern, air-conditioned and well-lit establishments, in lieu of the dirt and odors from the local markets. That’s not the case for Chef Fany Hermawan. Fany tells us that he loves going through local markets, a chore that he has been enjoying since his days in culinary school some 20 years ago. “When it comes to food markets, every town has its own characteristics, from seafood to meat and vegetables and poultry. For me it’s a never-ending journey of my imagination, to explore the world of our nature’s bounty,” said the chef poetically. The talented Fany came out victorious after many challenging years studying and working in Australia. His initial career started with local restaurants in Perth and he moved up along the way to become chef de partie at Tetsuya’s in Sydney until he settled in Melbourne. There, Fany proved his mettle as head chef in several prominent restaurants and hotels. In 2007, he returned back to Indonesia and with the immense experience he had gathered abroad, he became the mastermind behind the success of Rustique and Immigrant. For this issue, Chef Fany Hermawan took us to his favorite local market in Bintaro, negotiated and bargained his way through the vendors and successfully transformed ingredients he bought into a sophisticated dish back in our kitchen. His wonderful idea for this recipe was to incorporate the jus made from black tea as the sauce alongside the rich carrot puree with fresh champignon and horenso. “I hope the recipe will motivate you on taking it to another level. Good luck and enjoy the dish!”, Fany said encouraging for The Foodie Magazine’s readers to try it out.
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
280ml 1500ml 200gr 280gr 160gr 2 cloves Vegetable stock: 150gr 200gr 100gr 50gr 60gr 80gr 4pcs 10gr 2500ml 6gr 15gr Carrot puree: 250gr 100gr 50gr 40gr 6pcs 2pcs 2pcs 900ml 80ml 10ml 10gr to adjust
BEEF CHUCK-EYE ROLL WITH GARLIC SAUTEED SPINACH, MUSHROOMS, CARROT PUREE, AND BLACK TEA AU JUS Serves 4 portions
INGREDIENTS:
General ingredients: 1000gr Chuck-eye / rib-eye â&#x20AC;&#x201C; take only the loin side after trimming, cling wrap it and roll it tightly, then chill for 3 hours
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Black tea au jus: 1600ml 100ml 100ml 80ml 70gr 80gr 80gr 50gr 10gr #]P` 110gr 7gr 1gr 20gr 15gr
Black tea au jus Vegetable stock Carrots puree Spinach - leaf only Button mushrooms/ champignon - cut into 4 each Garlic - crushed Carrots - cut length ways Brown onion - cut diagonally, leave skin on Celery stick - cut length ways Leeks - keep whole Mushrooms Garlic - whole Bay leaves Black peppercorn whole Water Salt Sugar
STEPS
For vegetable stock: { 0UN_ T_VYYRQ PN__\a` YRRX` O_\d[ \[V\[ celery until slightly charred, then place them in a medium size aluminum stockpot. { =YNPR RcR_faUV[T V[ Va N[Q aUR[ P\\X \[ high heat for 20 minutes. { <[PR Vax` O\VYRQ `VZZR_ \[ N TR[aYR URNa for a good 45-minute. { AUR[ YRNcR Va a\ P\\Y S\_ Na YRN`a N[ U\b_ Strain it and leave it aside. For carrot puree: { @NbaĂ&#x2020; aUR PN__\a` TN_YVP N[Q ab_ZR_VP with the vegetable oil, then add in the vegetable stock, potatoes and bay leaves. { 0\\X \cR_ N TR[aYR URNa S\_ Na YRN`a ! minutes. { AUR[ aNXR \ba aUR ONf YRNcR` a_N[`SR_ Va to a food blender. { .QQ V[ aUR ]N_ZR`N[ ObaaR_ N[Q P_RNZ blend it fine until fluffy. { .QQ V[ aUR `RN`\[V[T a\ OR NQWb`aRQ
Carrots - peeled, cut into large cubes Potato - peeled, cut into the same size of the Carrots Turmeric - peeled Parmesan - grated Shallots - large, peeled Garlic - peeled, crushed Bay leaves Vegetable stock Cooking cream Vegetable oil Unsalted butter Salt, white pepper, and sugar
For black tea au jus: { <[PR NYY aUR T_VYYRQ cRTRaNOYR` N_R Q\[R place them in a saucepot then add in all the ingredients, except the tea and seasonings. Leave that to the finishing part and the thickening agent also, never at the beginning! { 0\\X \[ N TR[aYR URNa S\_ N T\\Q " # minutes, then add in the tea. { ANXR Va \ba \S aUR URNa N[Q YRNcR Va S\_ minutes, then strain all of the remaining. { A_N[`SR_ Va V[a\ N[\aUR_ `NbPR]\a O_V[T Va back to heat then add in the thickening agent. { @RN`\[ Va dRYY N[Q ONYN[PR Va dVaU aUR P\YQ unsalted butter. Then sieve it to make sure the texture is smooth enough to have the consistency of a demiglace. { /NYN[PR aUR `RN`\[V[T N` f\b T\
Vegetable stock Balsamic vinegar Worcestershire sauce Chinese cooking wine Ginger - skin on, grilled Lemongrass - grilled Local black tea Garlic Coriander seed - toasted 8NSSV_ YVZR YRNcR` Brown sugar/cane sugar/ palm sugar Salt White pepper ground Corn flour (thickening agent) Unsalted butter - cubes and chilled
Constructing the dish: { <[PR aUR ORRS V` PUVYYRQ ]_\]R_Yf V[ aUR chiller, take it out and take off the plastic wrap. { 4Ra N [\[ `aVPX ]N[ \VY Va YVTUaYf N[Q `RN_ on the sides of the loin on a gentle heat for a good 8 minutes. Then leave it to rest for at least 4 minutes. { @NbaĂ&#x2020; aUR Zb`U_\\Z` dVaU PU\]]RQ TN_YVP and season it well, then sautĂŠ the spinach with garlic also and season it well. { 4Ra f\b_ dN_Z ]YNaR` N[Q P\[`a_bPa f\b_ dish the way you like it before you serve your beef. { :NXR `b_R aUNa f\b `YVPR PZ aUVPX V[a\ N medallion; serve each plate with 3 slices. It should be enough for 4 portions and at the end, add some seasonings of freshly cracked black pepper and sea salt.
ADV SHANGRILA
@ 5 . ; 4 ? 6 9 . 7 . 8 . ? A. x T H E F O O D I E
Since it first opened its doors, Shangri-La Hotel, Jakarta has presented guests with the best culinary experiences.
Shangri-La Jakarta’s 20 Year Culinary Journey 34 | www. thefoodiemag.com
Shangri-La Hotel, Jakarta celebrates it’s 20th year anniversary this month. The hotel first opened it’s doors on March 22, 1994 and since then, has made it’s mark as one of the top hotels in the Indonesian capital. Throughout the years, the hotel has won countless awards and recognitions, both locally and internationally.
@ 5 . ; 4 ? 6 9 . 7 . 8 . ? A. x T H E F O O D I E
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or the whole month, the hotel will offer a wide range of special 20th anniversary offers and activities for guests to enjoy, as a way to say ‘thank you’ for their continued patronage. The hotel has presented guests with excellent culinary experiences prepared by world-class chefs, using only the finest and most desirable ingredients for the past two decades. When it first opened, guests were able to indulge in authentic Cantonese cuisine at Shang Palace, enjoyed elegant French cuisine at Margaux and relished a
sumptuous international buffet at Coffee Garden. In the following years, Nadaman Japanese restaurant and B.A.T.S. (Bar At The Shangri-La) were added as dining venues to compliment the existing roster of specialty restaurants. Determined to be an active player in the city’s dining scene, Shangri-La Hotel, Jakarta continued to improve and innovate. Coffee Garden was changed to SATOO in 2004. It is now famous for it’s 12 interactive open kitchen buffet concept and is considered one of the best and most sought after buffets in
the city. In 2006, Margaux gracefully bowed out and passed the spotlight to the vibrant Rosso Italian restaurant, which showcases authentic and excellently prepared Italian fare. The latest addition has been SATOO Garden, an extension of SATOO which was launched early last year. It is a chic and hip semi-outdoor venue that offers all-day a la a carte dining and also converts into an event space. In line with the hotel’s anniversary, guests can enjoy many dining privileges this month. Throughout March 2014, those born
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@ 5 . ; 4 ? 6 9 . 7 . 8 . ? A. x T H E F O O D I E in March can enjoy a 20-For-20 special of a 20% discount on food at all of the hotel’s restaurants. Those who were not born in March may also enjoy the same benefit by making an online reservation through the hotel’s website. In the spirit of celebration, SATOO presents the rich culinary tradition of Indonesia by showcasing its hawker style food from 7 to 23 March. Dishes such as Sate Lilit, Nasi Jamblang and Ayam Taliwang will be displayed amongst other international fare. Shang Palace offers 8 Chinese specialties cooked with Chinese herbs, including Braised Duck with Plum Angelica Sauce, Double Boiled Pigeon Soup and Poached Cabbage with Wolf Berries and Sun-dried Scallop, from 1 to 31 March. SATOO Deli brings a range of cheesecakes for the sweet tooth from 1 to 31 March. Options such as Red Velvet, Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip and White Chocolate and Bailey’s Cheesecake are available for a month of sweet indulgence. The hotel’s celebration is also about giving back. As part of its corporate social responsibility initiatives, guest can help raise funds, while enjoying the sweetness of cakes and cupcakes at SATOO Deli. Throughout March, the hotel will spare Rp2,000 for each cupcake purchased and Rp20,000 for each displayed whole-cake purchased. The money raised will go to the hotel’s CSR fund to support SMPN 181 in Bendungan Hilir, the hotel’s CSR beneficiary for EMBRACE, Shangri-La’s Care for People Project.
Enjoy a month of dining indulgences and privileges to celebrate the hotel’s anniversary.
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For more information, please call (62 21) 2939 9562 or access http://www.shangri-la.com/jakarta/shangrila/dining/.
Steaks On Us! Win a steak dinner for two at B.A.T.S. from Shangri-La Hotel, Jakarta and The Foodie Magazine. Be a follower of our social media accounts, and you and a friend may be the lucky winners to enjoy the restaurant’s signature 400g Garlic Rubbed U.S. Porterhouse. B.A.T.S. brings New York underground vibes to the bustling city of Jakarta. The Foodie Magazine is Jakarta’s newest and most dynamic food magazine in the market today. How to win: 1. Simply follow these accounts:
The Foodie Magazine The Foodie Magazine -AUR3\\QVR:NT -AUR3\\QVR:NT
Shangri-La Hotel, Jakarta Shangri-La Hotel, Jakarta -@UN[T_V9N78A -@UN[T_V9N78A
2. Answer the question that will be posted weekly on The Foodie Magazine’s Facebook account. We will choose one winner every week for the month of March.
C O V E R F E AT U R E
Bovine Anatomy â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Know your beef
chuck rib
by RIAN FARISA
The Foodie Magazineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guide to the different parts of the cow.
brisket plate
CHUCK Paha depan & leher
shank
While chuck is known as a value steak, it still needs to be prepared properly. Aside from flat-iron steak, meat from here is usually used for pot roasting, braising, and the rest goes for burgers.
BRISKET Sandung lamur A versatile cut and used frequently in many Asian dishes. Generally, the brisket is used mainly for slow cooking, corned beef and pastrami.
SHANK Sengkel
RIB Iga
PLATE Perut
The constant use of this muscle makes this part tough, thus it is best when cooked slowly. While it is popularly used for beef bourguignon, it is more often used as low-fat ground beef or as beef stock.
The much-loved part that contains prime rib, short ribs and the rib eye. You know what to do next with these cuts. Grill, grill, grill!
Tough, fatty and cheap, this part of beef is used mostly for pastrami, but the somewhat popular skirt steak and hanger steak comes from this part too.
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
SIRLOIN Has Luar Divided into several cuts, the best part comes from the top sirloin or often called chateaubriand and followed by bottom sirloin with its tri-tip steak cut.
sirloin tenderloin
round
short loin
TENDERLOIN Has Dalam
sirloin
The leanest yet most tender part, tenderloin is located inside both the short loin and sirloin with that unique oblong shape. The smallest, edge part of it is known as filet mignon and is highly prized. Average cows provide no more than 500 grams of tenderloin!
flank shank
ROUND Penutup Clearly the toughest yet the leanest part of the cow, the cut from this part is known as rump steak. Usually this part requires long preparation or is cut thinly to lock the juice or made them into bresaola (air-dried salted beef).
SHORT LOIN Has Pendek
FLANK Sancan
Part spine, part top loin and part tenderloin. Aside from strip steak, short loin is famously known for its porterhouse and T-bone cuts. Both steaks have the T-shaped bone but porterhouse cut comes from the back, making it more tenderloin part.
This part of the cow is very well exercised. The meat from this part is commonly used for Chinese-style stirfry beef , it can also be marinated or braised to increase tenderness.
Other popular cuts: Aside from the usual cuts generally used for steaks, other parts like the beef tongue or oxtails are often made into delicious dishes. Not to mention of course that the unusual parts like the innards of the beef, tripe, brain, heart, lungs and knuckles are also widely used especially in Indonesia. www. thefoodiemag.com | 39
C O V E R F E AT U R E
LET THEM EAT STEAK! by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
Before Holycow! Steakhouse, Jakartans never talked about wagyu. Now, whenever wagyu is mentioned, Holycow! Steakhouse immediately comes to everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mind. Yes, they are the main cause of the wagyu frenzy in Jakarta in the past years. The Holycow! story is a mixture between hard work and brilliant initiatives. The owner, Afit Purwanto, shares with us their ingredients of success.
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
5<9F0<D @A2.8 5<B@2 /F 0523 .36A i AdVaaR_' -YbPfdV_f\[\ -`aRNXU\YfP\d
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
A
s a marketing officer for one of the biggest local TV stations, Afit Purwanto had the privileges of entertaining clients and taking them out to fine dining establishments. He and his team would also be able to sample the finer things whenever they finalized big deals with their clients. It was during these meals that Afit started to visit premium steak houses around Jakarta. ‘My first affair with wagyu was incredibly passionate. I just couldn’t wait to tell my wife about how good it was , I really enjoyed this wondrous meat’, expressed Afit remembering his virgin flight with some of the most expensive beef in the city. His wife, Lucy Wiryono, simply just asked him, ‘What is wagyu anyway? I’ve never heard about it!’ ‘Well, wagyu was rare back then and no supermarket sold it yet. Until finally we found a meat shop which did’, said Afit. From here, the small happy family treat themselves to grilled wagyu once in a while and Afit even started to cook it from time to time for family events. ‘Everybody enjoyed it and gave praises. They ultimately told me to start a business instead!’, he said. From here, the couple agreed upon a bold idea to open a steakhouse specializing
in wagyu. This was of course to differentiate themselves with other steakhouses and also to introduce wagyu to everyone. ‘We wanted to share the enjoyment of having wagyu with everybody but also in an affordable way’, said Afit stating the real mission behind Holycow! Steakhouse. Afit resigned from his job and used his bonus to start a roadside warung. ‘In order to make it affordable, we only take a little profit from every wagyu sold but we’re keeping up with the quality as well’, shared Afit and continued by Lucy, ‘We started it modest and with a thorough research for an exit strategy should we ultimately fail. On top of that, we also want our employees to be paid decently and on time. Thankfully everything went well and we got through our deadline!’ The couple’s strategy to utilize social media was a pivotal decision. ‘Since the beginning, we offered both wagyu and nonwagyu steaks and people share between themselves to taste the difference. Later they shared their experiences through Twitter’, said Afit. Within a relatively short period, Holycow! Steakhouse has become a darling for many Jakartans who want to enjoy their steaks for lunch, dinner, and even
for midnight breakfasting during Ramadhan month. The steakhouse also issues several initiatives to attract more patrons like giving away free wagyu for those who celebrate their birthdays or a buy-one-get-one promo for certain days of a week. Aside from the noble ideas to share wagyu to everyone and perseverance through modest profit margins, educating people has also been a specific goal for the steakhouse as well. Afit further elaborated, ‘At first we were only introducing the prime cuts and after we felt our patrons became more explorative, we decided to add secondary cuts to entice our patrons to be adventurous with their meat!’ One simply cannot deny the immense growth of this steakhouse. Several outlets in Jakarta and Yogyakarta have become the proof of success of once a modest roadside warung. Further, Afit even opened different concept restaurants involving seafood and Japanese-style steaks using his unique approach in business. From how it looks, the couple may be enjoying the fruits of their labor now, but with Afit’s endless creativity and Lucy’s faithful support, we’ll see more of their interesting initiatives in the future. So for now, stay tune and enjoy the steak!
C O V E R F E AT U R E
FOODOLOGY:
THE PERFECT STEAK 5<D A< 4?699 9682 . =?<
MARINATING If using fridge, bring meat to room temp. an hour before grilling.
1 hour
24 hour
Room Temperature
In the fridge
Grill preparations
BRUSH GRIDS
MeD
Use olive oil
MED/HIGH
OFF
Preheating temp. (About 20 mins)
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HIGH
C O V E R F E AT U R E
grilling times Keep in mind bone-in cuts take a bit longer
TIPS: { A\bPU V` aUR OR`a dNf a\ aR`a doneness, at least with smaller cuts. { AUVPXR_ Pba` dVY _R^bV_R N thermometer. Practice with this to hone your skills or forever be stuck with the slice and peek method. { . P\ZZ\[ ZRaU\Q V` aUR PURRX [\`R forehead method, if it is soft like your cheek - it’s rare, if it is like your nose - it’s medium and if it is hard as your forehead - it’s well done. As a general rule: undercooked is better than overcooked. You can always put it back in the grill to cook it some more but you can’t undo an over-cooked steak.
Thickness 1 1/2” Rare
time per side
total time
1”
(Three Flips)
Rare
1 3/4 mins.
7 mins.
Medium/Rare
2
8
Medium
2 1/4
9
Well
2 1/2
10
3
12
Medium/Rare Medium
It’s all about looks Flipping the picture perfect steak
45 45 Place steak on 45o angle
Flip steak as shown
Turn and flip again
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Photo was taken at Altitude
C O V E R F E AT U R E
Power Slim Versus Ellyna Who Wins? by ELLYNA TJOHNARDI photographs by MELANIE TANUSETIAWAN
Part 2 of our challenge to food blogger, Ellyna Tjohnardi to see if diet catering will work for her. After the 50th Power Slim meal from Slim Gourmet, did she manage to lose an ounce? Let’s check!
T
The worry about gaining weight is always a major concern of many urban people like us, who mostly lead sedentary lifestyles. Since we are always in such hurry, ‘quick-fix’ meals, which lack nutrition, become the easy solution. They are filling and tasty indeed, but do they complete your balanced nutrition needs? I am doubtful. On top of living in a fast-paced city like Jakarta, being a food blogger comes with its own kind of occupational hazards such as overeating, gaining weight and becoming unnecessarily critical about food. I have been and still am struggling with my weight, ever since I started food-blogging more than 2 years ago. I started out with an ideal weight for my height, but has since gained 7kgs over the few years. Like any normal person, I am massively alarmed to see the scale tipping south. Thoughts about stopping my food blogging activities have crossed my mind time and again, but this has been such a wonderful experience, which has allowed me to meet so many amazing people from various walks of life, I’d be a fool to give up my own passion just for the sake of getting approval from strangers who don’t even care if I’m happy. So instead of going back to starving myself and going through the crazy gym regiment, I decided to try an alternative: well portioned and balanced catered meals or what people nowadays recognize as diet catering. The trend is apparent in Jakarta
46 | www. thefoodiemag.com
and I could see more and more diet caterers (large and small scale, corporate and home business). Supply never appears without demand, so it implies that residents in Jakarta have become more conscious about their diet. Diet catering typically provides portioned meals that fulfill a person’s daily nutrition requirements. The widely spread idea is that a woman needs 2,000 calories daily, while a man requires 2,500 calories. Those numbers are easily overshot if your daily meal includes instant noodles, fried stuff and junk food. A burger can easily have 500 calories, and if you add fries and a soda, you could easily hit more than 1,000 calories, in one meal. A great option to curtail your weight and start to eat healthy, is to jump start your diet by signing up for diet catering, such as the program I went through, ‘Power Slim’ by Slim Gourmet (a part of Euromedica Group that also runs European Slimming Center in Jakarta). I had signed up for 50 meals Power Slim Program, and it lasted for over a month, because the meals were for lunch only. It means, I had to prepare my breakfasts and dinners. Each meal comprises of three items: Appetizer (could be salad, soup or light dish), Main course (meat, chicken or fish) and fresh cut fruits as dessert. My estimation with the portion and type of food served, each meal could provide between 500-800 calories. It is impossible to still feel hungry if you consume
everything at one go. I often find myself consuming the entire meal over a few hours because they are quite filling, for example I’d start with the Appetizer box at 12 noon and finish the meat and the fruits at 1.30PM. Slim Gourmet is especially generous with the salad, as they are fibrous makes us full more quickly and packs less calories. Taste wise, I personally am most fond of the Indonesian menu, as they always taste great with well-made gravy and sauce. I have to admit that I dreaded the nutritionist’s weekly visits and track my progress (or lack thereof). My initial and final digits did not budge, but hear my defense, all the while undergoing this program, my food tastings and reviews never slowed down nor stopped. Plus it was during the period of major festivities: New Year and Lunar New Year. With all the eating and goodies I ingested, it is already magical that I did not gain weight! With more exercise and disciplined eating habit (I admit that I was still ‘cheating’ sometime, especially at food tastings and events). Having a Nutritionist track my progress regularly, has motivated me to watch what I ate and to try to improve. So, after the 50th meal, various food tasting events and festivities, and I still could look like this, this program surely is a resounding success! I feel much healthier from the healthy food I ate and at the same time, still feel and look great without having to sacrifice my passion for food. Thank you Power Slim.
C O V E R F E AT U R E
Slim Gourmet Perks { 2NPU ZRNY UN` ]N``RQ aUR `aN[QN_Q` of certified nutritionists { :RNY` N_R ]_R]N_RQ Of Re]R_VR[PRQ chefs and each are specialized in different types of cuisine { .YdNf` b`R ]_RZVbZ V[T_RQVR[a` N[Q are delivered within 24 hours { ?RTbYN_ S\YY\d b]` S_\Z aURV_ Customer Service and weekly progress check by the nutritionist
@96: 4<B?:2A 7.8.?A. i 7NYN[ 8_NZNa ?NfN ;\ & 1 8RONf\_N[ 9NZN 7NXN_aN ! +62 21 723 1198, 723 6229, 739 5752 | www.slimgourmet.net
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W E N T T H E R E AT E T H AT
Taipei Food Adventures by RICHMOND BLANDO
It is not a secret that if you want to see restaurants that border on the weird and fancy, Taipei will not be in short demand. But the truth of the matter is, the food in Taipei is more than just a pretty face. They have some iconic dishes that will make you come back for more.
W E N T T H E R E AT E T H AT
Fight the cuteness The Hello Kitty Sweets was much smaller then we initially expected. A massive Hello 8Vaaf SNPR QRP\_NaR` aUR ReaR_V\_ dUVYR aUR inside is decorated in baby shades of white and pink, chandeliers, and kitty cuteness everywhere. The cakes can be quite pricy, expect to pay food design, not the food quality itself. Hello Kitty Theme Restaurants Cake Taipei Location: 90, Da-an Rd Sec 1, Taipei City Phone: 02-2711-1132
The Barbie Café is cuteness and glamour personified and it is the first of its kind in the world. This restaurant is a little too much pink and magenta for me though. Tutus adorn the chairs; Barbie’s face is blown up to cosmic proportions; the waitresses don tiaras while the waiters wear suits. I only saw a handful of children, although the place was packed with young men and women obviously out on romantic dates. Barbie Café Location: 2F, 128, Section 4, Zhongxiao East Road, Taipei City Reservation Recommended
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W E N T T H E R E AT E T H AT
Taking off and Putting off The A380 sky kitchenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s airplane windows, reclining chairs, and waitresses that double for stewardesses all combine to set the scene, that, and the Sponge Bob dĂŠcor, mainly because the restaurant is located on the same floor as the baby section of the Mitsukoshi department store, which means that most of the diners with newborns in strollers. Of course, the one thing everybody loves on a plane is a baby (winkwink). Location: Song Gao Road, #12, 4th Floor @UV[ 8\[T :Va`bX\`UV ANV]RV 0Vaf Phone: 02-2722-6380 Modern Toilet is all about the bathroom devices. Seats are designed as toilets, tables as sinks, showerheads decorate the walls and all food comes served in a miniature toilet bowl. The owner says that the idea came when read about a Japanese cartoon character that swirled his poop on a stick. Gross? Yes it is, but the idea did catch on. If you really feel like eating your food out of a toilet bowl and chugging beverages from a urinal, this is the place for you. Location: 2F, No.7, Lane 50, Sining S. Rd., Wanhua District, Taipei City Phone: 02-2311-8822
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W E N T T H E R E AT E T H AT
Then there’s the food… If a themed restaurant is not your thing, there are still three things that a Taipei visitor should always experience. Din Tai Fung’s Xiao Long Bao is probably as iconic as they come. It is what won them a Michelin Star rating. But if you are in this part of the world, then go to where it all started and savor every flavorful slurp and bite out of this famous dumpling. Location: No.194 Second Section, Xinyi Road, Taipei, Taiwan Night Market street food is a definite must. I can’t single anyone dish out, but try out a gigantic sweet shaved ice or a pork shawarma or crushed peanuts wrapped in ice cream that is wrapped in a lumpia wrapping. Don’t worry about which night market, but if you have to choose go with the biggest at the Shihlin Night Market. Location: Between Dadong Road, Danan Road, Wenlin Road and Jihua Road, Taipei, Taiwan (Shihlin District) Finally, the Beef Noodle Soup should be the coup de grâce. But not just any kind, since you can probably get this at every food court or restaurant, since this is like the rendang or sup buntut of Taiwan but take the time to go to Ximending’s seemingly hole in wall restaurant. Chances are, if you just mention “that beef noodle soup place on Taoyuan Jie” to a native Taipei resident they’ll likely know exactly what you are talking about. For the folks that really want to savor the essence of the beef, clear is definitely the way to go. The meat, cut against the grain, is stewed until tender perfection and breaks apart in your mouth. If you are craving something with a stronger flavor, the braised beef noodle soup is the one for you. This bowl contains the same tender beef, topped off by a soup with a bright red hue, with just enough heat to give it a little kick. Add some of the delicious pickled mustard greens to give it more depth. Location: No. 15, Taoyuan St., Taipei Phone: 02-2375-8973
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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D
PLEASE DO TELL by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
Jeff Bell, head bartender at New York’s Please Don’t Tell speakeasy and runner-up for Diageo World Class 2013 world’s best bartender competition, tell’s all as he sits down with The Foodie Magazine.
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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D
PLEASE DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T TELL (PDT) | 113 St. Marks Pl, New York, NY | +1 212 614 0386 | www.pdtnyc.com Jeff Bell | Instagram: @jeffreymbell
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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D
J
eff Bell turns heads whereever he goes. Not just because of his dashing good looks, but also because of the great cocktails he makes, and the passion with which they are served with. Currently the head bartender at New York’s highly acclaimed speakeasy, Please Don’t Tell, his expertly crafted cocktails have won him awards and recognition the world over. Jeff represented the USA at the Diageo World Class Bartender of the Year final, 2013 and just narrowly missed out on winning the global title. At 28, Jeff sounds a little bit older than he is. I think it is the combination of his philosophy degree from the University of Washington, his own charm and perseverence plus his living and working in New York City which gives me this impression. Jeff started his career in hospitality as a dishwasher and a busboy at 18, as a freshman in college. What started out as a flexible job to pay for school, has ended up becoming his chosen field. “Bartenders always looked like they were having fun. They got lots of attention from the girls, and they made a little bit more money than I did. That was already three things going for them! Their job looked really appealing to me,” Jeff says. He finally got behind the bar when he turned 21 and never looked back. Something clicked in him, he says, and immediately he knew that his career was going to be something bartender or hospitality related. Not in finance as he initially thought after graduation. He took on a finance job and after two weeks, quit to go back to bartendering. “It was not me, it was like I was a square peg, being forced into a round hole. So I went back to bartendering and ran with that. I enjoy the routine, the day to day.”
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Jeff then moved to New York City, for him, it was the best place to work as a bartender, because of the competiton, because of the craziness. “I think every country in the world has a city where their people gravitate to, and New York is that for Americans,” Jeff opines. “If you want a new challenge, if you want a new scene, New York is a great place for that. There are people from all walks of life, it is very diverse. It is the hardest city to get by. If you want to test yourself, test your character, test your work ethic, New York is the right place.” Jeff started working at Maialino, which is a great Italian restaurant and part of the Danny Meyer/Union Square Hospitality Group empire. “I think that Danny Meyer is the most dynamic restauranteur in the world. His unique concepts and understanding of the hospitality industry is unmatched in my opinon.“ He worked under Valerie Meehan, Jim Meehan’s wife, who was the bartender at Maialino. Jim owned Please Don’t Tell (PDT) and Jeff already was receiving the trickle down influence of the Meehan school of thought before he even worked at PDT. Later on, Jim gave Jeff a once a week stint as a barback at PDT and four years later, he is the head bartender. PDT, found in the East Village of Manhattan, is widely considered to have started the renaissance of prohibition style bars and was recently voted best bar in America. To gain access, guests enter a hot dog joint, Crif Dogs, before finding the secret venue hidden away behind a telephone booth. Owners Brian Shebairo and Jim Meehan have created a warm and welcoming interior, with leather couches, taxidermy and pictures hung on bare brick walls – it’s something of a secret space, hidden away behind a quirky entrance.
It has a seasonal, rotating cocktail list, excellent spirits selection and list of gourmet hotdogs created by renowned chefs such as David Chang of Momofuku, WD-50’s Wylie Dufresne and Andy Ricker of Pok Pok. Jeff describes the cocktails now being served at PDT: “The list rotates throughout the year. Since we have colder weather now, you will see lots of aged spirits, aged rum, whiskeys, congnacs and hot drinks. As spring sets in, lighter spirits will appear, vodka, bubbly, effervescence. As late May and June approach, herbs and fruits will appear.” Jeff shares with The Foodie Magazine his winning cocktail which sealed his spot at the World Class global finals, the Lion’s Den. Jeff uses Don Julio Reposado tequila, Shishito peppers and Shichimi Togorashi spice in a margaritaesque cocktail. “The Don Julio Reposado has a peppery quality, with some green vegetal notes, the muddled Shishito peppers are used to enhance those flavors to make a fun peppery margarita. It is then finished with the salt and Togorashi spice to give it an added punch. We use culinary ingredients to inspire our cocktails at PDT.” To end, I ask Jeff again about New York. “New York is a great place to visit. It has some of the best cocktail bars in the world, in my opinon. I love New York. They say if you make it here, you can make it anywhere. And I believe that it’s absolutely true. It is the most rewarding city for people who know what they are doing and work here. People really respect hard work there and appreciate it. Show that you care, show that you want to learn and you will do will in a city like New York.” I believe Jeff has shown that he cares and has shown that he is willing to learn and is now reaping the success he deserves. Cheers to Jeff!
T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D
LIONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DEN Serves 1
INGREDIENTS: 1 ounce
Tequila Don Julio Reposado 3/4 tbs Yellow Chartreuse 3/4 tbs Fresh lime juice 3/4 tbs Agave syrup 1/2 pc Shishito pepper Togarashi salt to rim glass
STEPS
{ :bQQYR aUR ]R]]R_ V[ N /\`a\[ `UNXR_ { .QQ AR^bVYN 1\[ 7bYV\ ?R]\`NQ\ fRYY\d Chartreuse, fresh lime juice, agave syrup, and shake vigorously. { 3V[R `a_NV[ V[a\ N PUVYYRQ P\b]R TYN`` rimmed with Togarashi salt (1 part kosher salt and Togarashi spice blend). { 6QRNY @R_cV[T 4YN``' 0\b]R 4YN``
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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D
Beef and Booze by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
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At the heart of the Sudirman Central Business District, Potato Head Garage has been attracting a steady stream of patrons for almost a year. Drawn by the spaceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique architecture and interior design, guests enjoy top quality food and some of the best cocktails in the city. Head mixologist, Rhys Wilson shares some of his best and brightest cocktails to match with Potato Head Garageâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best steaks.
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first met Rhys a few months ago at an event. He had a colorful bow tie on and it was impossible not to get attracted by his wide smile and playful nature. Skinny and scrawny, I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t peg him for a bartender. After chatting him up, I discover that this Australian transplant has traveled the world working behind some of the best bars. Oddly enough, Rhysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; main focus in the beginning of his career was performance. He studied acting and wanted his mornings free for auditions. Hence he started his career in hospitality, working as a waiter at the Four Seasons Sydney. Bartendering attracted him and soon enough, he started to tend bar and his creativity started to come though with his cocktails. He has since then lived in Vietnam, Spain and Great Britain. Rhys has spent the last two years in London working at the famous Callooh Callay which won â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Tales of the Cocktailâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best Cocktail Menu 2012â&#x20AC;&#x2122; and was nominated for â&#x20AC;&#x153;Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best Cocktail Bar 2013.â&#x20AC;? Now he is in Jakarta for Potato Head Garage. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If someone told me a few years ago that I would end up working at a bar in Jakarta, I would tell him to get out of here!â&#x20AC;? Rhys says with a laugh. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I would never have thought that the city would be so cosmopolitan. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a city which is largely based around great food, great drink and great restaurants, so much of the city is based around consumption.â&#x20AC;? Rhys is a whiskey guy and he says that he likes working with whiskey, not just with traditional style classic cocktails, but also with modern interpretations of these classics, he likes working with citrus, egg whites, and herbs which are easily accessible and are found naturally. Rhys prepares three cocktails for us to partner with the excellent steak and meat selection at Potato Head Garage. Head chef Hikaru Take tells us that they have a wide menu of steaks from Australia, the US and Japan. We were served a 400g Wood Fire Grilled Tajima Ribeye with Yuzu Chili and a Wood Fire Grilled Lamb Chops with a Homemade Spice Rub. Chef Take says that since the steaks acquire a smokey quality from the wood fire grill, they will go perfectly with the whiskey cocktails Rhys prepared for us. Rhysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; first cocktail, Across The Border, combines bourbon, port wine, maple syrup, the sweet notes are able to cut through the steakâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fatty flavor very well. The second cocktail is the Potato Head Special Brew, which is served in a beer can, a cute afterthought since itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main ingredient is a reduction of a Belgian wheat beer. The citrusy notes definitely go great with the
steak, once again, washing the palate so that you are not overwhelmed with the meat flavor of the steaks. And lastly, a modern classic, Trinidad Sour, which comprises largely of Angostura Bitters. Surprisingly, the cocktail is not too bitter but impeccably compliments
the smokiness of the steaks. Rhysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; new cocktail at Potato Head Garage will be released this month, so head on over there to sample not only his creative tipples but also some of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best steaks.
ACROSS THE BORDER Serves 1
INGREDIENTS: 45 ml 10 ml 15 ml 3 Dashes
Bourbon Whiskey Port Wine Maple Syrup Abbottâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bitters
STEP
{ @aV__RQ V[ ZVeV[T TYN`` `R_cR V[ 0\b]RaaR with an Orange Twist.
=<A.A< 52.1 4.?.42 i @0/1 9\a ! 2e /R[TXRY 8NSR 7NYN[ 7R[Q @bQV_ZN[ 8Nc " " 7NXN_aN +62 21 5797 3330 | www.pttgarage.com
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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D
PH SPECIAL BREW Serves 1
INGREDIENTS: 35 ml
15 ml 25 ml Reduction (Homemade) 25 ml 2 Dashes
STEP
Johnnie Walker Red Label Dry Vermouth Wheat Beer Lemon Juice Orange Bitters
{ @UNXR NYY V[T_RQVR[a` `a_NV[ V[a\ sanitized Beer can, garnish with orange twist and discard.
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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D
TRINIDAD SOUR Serves 1
INGREDIENTS: 15 ml 25 ml 25 ml 25 ml
Rye Whiskey Angostura Bitters Lemon Juice Orgeat syrup
STEP
{ @UNXR NYY V[T_RQVR[a` `R_cR V[ :N_aV[V TYN`` no garnish
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FI N E R T H I N G S
THE Steak House by RICHMOND BLANDO photographs by MELANIE TANUSETIAWAN
Steaks have been around for as long as I can remember. If you want a perfectly cooked steak you should go to a trusted name and that name is The Steak House at the Four Seasons Hotel.
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he Steak House at the Four Seasons won the title of the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Best Wine List 2013â&#x20AC;?, and that is not a fluke by any means. Winning this award comes not only from a great list but also from being able to pair a great wine with the great dish it accompanies. You look at any review sites in the Internet and you will hardly read any bad review of this restaurant. Can their steaks be really that good? A great man once said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you want to find out for sure, do it yourselfâ&#x20AC;?, okâ&#x20AC;Ś I may have paraphrased that a little bit but you get the picture. The Steak House has a 15-year reputation as being one of the best steak houses in Jakarta. Their interior may have changed over the years, as any restaurant should, but they have maintained their Aboriginal painting that was there from the start. When the dishes came to our table, steaks and then some, they came almost naked and without much flair as if to tell you that they do not hide behind side dishes and I can tell you by personal experience their steaks ARE impeccable. I realized all this after the first bite off the succulent, perfectly cooked rib-eye that was cooked on a wood fire grill. The smokiness oozed and I felt the steak melting in my mouth, meat so tender it made me take a deep breath of relief and joy. This is what a great steak is meant to be. The Steak House only use wood from rambutan and guava trees to give it an aromatic aroma infused in the meat. If you want a great wine pairing consider the cut and level of doneness of the steak. They suggest a Cabernet Sauvignon - a rich, dry red wine with black fruit, oak and pepper, the tannic structure makes it the perfect wine and grape to pair with fatty cuts of meat like Rib-eye. If you prefer a leaner steak like sirloin, pair it with a wine with a bit less tannin, because the steak will not have enough fat to soften it. A juicy wine can help boost the flavor of a welldone steak, while a medium rare steak can handle an earthier or aged old world wine. When you do go we recommend that you try the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Super Cutsâ&#x20AC;?, which is a plate \S aU_RR af]R` \S ZRNa [NZRYf 8\OR Wagyu and US Prime. Savor all three types in one delicious plate. So head on out to The Steak House, and truly experience some of the finer things, pun intended. 3<B? @2.@<;@ 5<A29 7.8.?A. i 7NYN[ 5NWV ? ?N`b[N @NVQ 7NXN_aN i # " !"# www.fourseasons.com/jakarta | Twitter: @FSJakarta
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C U LT U R E
Well Done by DALIA KUWATLY AND INDITA PROBOSUTEDJO
When ordering steak, we are sure you have noticed some Indonesian friends ordering theirs well done. With the increased influence of Western culture in the global food arena, the decision to have your steak cooked any more than medium is becoming gradually more taboo. Indonesia is amongst a few countries whose people still prefer to have their steaks well done. Tasteritos attempts to explore the factors influencing this phenomenon, one that is not only driven by taste, but by culture.
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s most steak-savvy individuals probably know, it is sacrilegious to overcook your steak. In his recipe for the “Perfect Steak”, celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay never fails to remind the importance of cooking the steak medium rare. Even for his famous Beef Wellington dish, he makes sure— under the many layers of pastry, greens and mushrooms—that the steak is still “pink” in the center. However, despite Ramsay’s and most other renowned chef’s
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recommendations, many Indonesians still prefer their steaks medium-well to well done. While some may think that this preference is due to taste, there are, in fact, more factors that can contribute to it. Various elements like health, religious concerns and influences of local dishes can play a big role in how Indonesians order their steaks. Traced down to its most raw form, debates have risen on the topic of beef quality in Indonesia. Our main beef importer,
Australia, provides relatively more hygienic and sustainable farming methods, in turn affecting the fat content, or marbling, of the meat through details such as feed and storage systems. We can tell if a beef is marbled well when there is an intense spread of fat in between layers of meat, which makes it appear like a marble block (hence the term), which can be found in a perfect Wagyu beef. With the provision of right food and environment for the animal, the cow will end up fatter, and thus have more tender meat. Various other factors such as tropical weather and the fact that Indonesian cows are used for labor prior to their slaughter, leading to more muscles, also contribute to less fat content present in Indonesian beef compared to imported beef. From the tenderness and the color of the raw beef, local meat is seen to be tougher and darker than its imported counterpart. Imported beef, therefore, is usually more suitable to cook medium-rare, as they are not as tough to begin with. On the flipside, local beef is more suitable to be cooked low and slow in order to tenderize the tough meat. Another important contributing factor is the inaccurate perception that a nonfully cooked piece of meat results in the presence of ‘blood’. Indonesia is a country with the largest Muslim population in the world, and many dietary decisions depend on this factor. A verse in Quran says, “I do not find … any food that is forbidden to eat except for carrion, flowing blood or blood poured forth … for that is unclean” (Quran 6:145). So other than the well-known restrictions of not being allowed to eat pork or drink alcohol, Muslims are also not allowed to eat anything that still has blood in it, and the presence of ‘blood’ in a cooked meat dish reflects how well or not the dish has been cooked. What many fail to recognize, though, is that the juice running from a medium-rare steak is in fact,
C U LT U R E not blood. All traces of blood are cleaned during the slaughter process, and what is left is a protein otherwise known as myoglobin. Cooking the meat medium-rare preserves the myoglobin and gives the meat a richer taste as a result of the protein contained. For a quick tip, you can prevent your steak from being runny by resting it for about 10 minutes before you serve it, as resting it will retain the juice within the meat. Many Indonesians also have a strong aversion against medium-rare steaks as they find it unappealing, unsafe, unsightly, and just plain wrong to eat meat with supposedly bacteria-filled blood still flowing out of them; therefore, cooking them well done is the only way to ensure a properly healthy and more nutritious dish. However, a study by the National Cancer Institute in the United States also suggests that overcooked meat, i.e. meat that is grilled and charred at higher temperatures, can increase the risk of prostate cancer in people who consume them, through the chemicals called Heterocyclic Amines and Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons that are released by the meat muscles when cooked at a high temperature. Where undercook meat can be seen as a breeding ground for bacteria, overcooked meat can also be seen as a cause for concern. At the same time, the collectivist nature of our people has driven us to possess an affinity with comfort foods, those that are laced with tradition and memories of sharing rituals. It is therefore not a surprise that one of Indonesia’s most famous and most beloved dishes is the rendang. Reno Suri, the writer of Rendang Traveller, says that meat used in local dishes such as rendang and soto needs to be cooked longer or cut thinly and mixed with tenderizing ingredients like lime in order to be easily consumed. This much celebrated dish of Minangkabau origins
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is not only ceremonial in its serving, but also in its cooking. The savory dish is made with local curry and herbs, and is cooked slowly for several hours over a low flame so that the round, which is the tough cow part that is commonly used for the dish, becomes tender and easier to separate; definitely a far cry from the relatively quick and practical methods of searing a steak. This local delicacy is so prominent amongst Indonesians that it probably influences the way Indonesians prefer their steak. Because a dish like rendang is cooked thoroughly, people may associate their steaks to the local beef dish. The same goes for other meat dishes such as bistik and satay, a dish
cooked so much that the edges become burnt. No, this is not a jab at the ‘inferior’ knowledge of our people in cooking our steaks. In fact, it is quite the opposite. These factors show the strong importance we place in our culture through our constant— albeit subconscious—references to our roots by way of tradition and history. Who is to say “pink-in-the-center” is the best way to cook a piece of meat? Certainly not Gordon Ramsay. As with eating overly charred satay can prove to be dangerous, it is probably also best to tone down on the undercooked meat. In any case, maybe trusting your gut is the way to go.
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JAKARTA FOOD TRUCK by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
As a new addition among other traditional food trucks found around the office ObVYQV[T` \S 8b[V[TN[ @RaVN Budi, Jakarta Food Truck ushers a fresh concept on how to compete with the rest while satiating the appetite of everyone!
F
ood trucks may not be a new concept worldwide and also in Indonesia. For many years we have seen food trucks selling bread scouring our neighborhoods and some stationed in strategic locations for freshly made food although most of them usually provide prepared food for takeaway. In conjunction with the renewed spirit of the food truck businesses in the USA, several creative Jakartans made an initiative to revive the whole concept into something fresh and engaging. One of the few that caught our attention was Jakarta Food Truck (JFT), owned by Ari Galih Gumilang â&#x20AC;&#x201C; known as a celebrity chef in several local TV shows. His take on the food truck business is to whip up some casual American food and of course, traditional Indonesian nasi rames (rice and different sides) to make it appealing for everyone. Additionally, some dessert creations and soft drinks are also available. The truck itself was heavily modified and everything is made fresh on the spot. Upon seeing the menu, it was hard to resist having their grilled dishes for lunch. We had two huge beef ribs bathed with generous BBQ sauce and a Sloppy Joe to further enhance the indulgence. Both came with French fries which you can substitute with rice, and classic coleslaw to further enhance the American style lunch. Want something else aside from the ribs and sloppy joe? Sure! JFT also has grilled spicy chicken and bangers & fries and for bun maniacs, the beef or chicken schnitzel. If you care for rice dishes, there are the rice combos which have spicy anchovies, fried eggs and beef stew. The Jakarta Food Truck is parked around 8b[V[TN[ @RaVNObQV S_\Z :\[QNf` a\ 3_VQNf` N[Q N_\b[Q 8RZN[T \[ aUR dRRXR[Q`
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OPENING HOURS: Everyday, 10 am – 3 pm dRRXQNf` 8b[V[TN[ NZ | " ]Z dRRXR[Q 8RZN[T SPEND: IDR 30,000 – IDR 60,000 / person
7.8.?A. 3<<1 A?B08 i 7NYN[ @RaVN /bQV V[ S_\[a \S DV`ZN /NX_VR 8b[V[TN[ dRRXQNf` and Jalan Benda no. 46C (weekend) – Jakarta | IG: @jktfoodtruck | Twitter: @jktfoodtruck
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BATAGOR KINGSLEY by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
Apart from the usual oleh-oleh youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see in Bandung like brownies or pisang molen, one must not forget also to have this most sought after specialty from the city. Yes there are fresh dishes that you do not want to wait until you get home to savor it like lotek or lomie, but batagor is surely something that you cannot wait to bring back home and enjoy it with the rest of the family!
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n Jakarta, we may see many hawkers selling batagor and people do enjoy it. Although, these may not come close to the originals from Bandung, since Jakarta hawkers may use mackerel (batagorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main ingredient) or even play around with the texture by using more flour or less flavor. In short, it never reaches the highest regard like pempek in Palembang or the batagor from its origin city. Personally, I regard batagor usually more as a snack or occasional light lunch and I do see people treat it that way here. What I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get is perhaps the very scene of Jakartans who became fanatics whenever they come to seek batagor in Bandung! Weekends are always crazy almost everywhere in Bandung and it has become harder and harder for everyone to move around freely without facing the traffic WNZ` 9bPXf S\_ /NaNT\_ 8V[T`YRf Vax` [RcR_ the case. Jalan Veteran is located in the older part of the town where access leading to this road are plenty and relatively far from the toll gates where they became so easily crowded alongside places of interest around the proximity. It is advisable for anyone to do just the takeaways here as you might encounter difficulty in sealing a table for your family and enjoy the meal at ease. In case youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re wondering, batagor is an abbreviation of bakso tahu goreng or literally translated as fried meatballs (bakso) and tofu. But the thing is, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not the usual meatballs youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see in your favorite bakmi or bakwan Malang. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s practically a fried fish dumplings wrapped together with tofu and bathed in spicy peanut sauce with kecap manis and a dash of lime juice. In case you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to have any tofu, the fried fish dumplings or commonly known as siomay are also available. What makes the difference between each stall is the ratio between the mackerel and the tapioca flour. So despite the medieval look, batagor is rich with flavor and textures. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crispy from the outside and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find the tanginess from the fish but with a chewy texture from the interior. Imagine it combined with tofu and the powerful peanut sauce that still retain its crunchy consistency. Some people like it sweeter with more kecap manis but either way, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just divine. Well, at IDR 10,000 for a piece of relatively huge batagor here, it may be considered a rather hefty price if compared to other places but youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see why it may be worth your while waiting for the table and for the staff to finally serve you with the treat. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget also to try the es sekoteng S_\Z /NaNT\_ 8V[T`YRfx` neighboring hawker for the dessert!
A. 8 6 ; 4 6 A A< A 5 2 @ A ? 2 2 A @
OPENING HOURS: Everyday, 10 am â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 9 pm SPEND: IDR 30,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; IDR 50,000 / person
/.A.4<? 86;4@92F i 7NYN[ CRaR_N[ [\ " /N[Qb[T | 6[Q\[R`VN i # ! $ !
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I CO N I C
MIRANDA by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
Quietly and calmly, Miranda has witnessed the decades pass by, offering the best bestik recipes to its patrons. It not only offers good steak, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a haven for those who want a slice of nostalgia.
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I CO N I C
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imeless! Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how one would describe Miranda, one of Jakartaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldie restaurants located in Jalan Besuki - Menteng. Although in many parts the restaurant has aged and appears shabby, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s owners have decided to keep it this way, because they think preserving the interior and structure is good for their business. Every time I enter Miranda, I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t help but feel transported to the Indonesian of the 1970s and 1980s. It is reminiscent of the movie scenes featuring my favorite S_N[PUV`R \S DN_X\] 186 6a Q\R` SRRY nostalgic whenever Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m surrounded with this kind of atmosphere â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a family restaurant with old furniture, long wooden tables for six made from rattan, alfresco dining space under an old tin roof and during dinner time, a solo keyboard player to entertain the patrons. It does feel a bit romantic somehow, experiencing a time gone by. I recently met Madame Louise, a charming lady who runs the business and a well-mannered person whom everyone adores. She spared some time to sit with me and tell the story of how it all started, despite the fact that sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s needed badly behind the cashier counter to run the business. â&#x20AC;&#x153;After our first restaurant in Semarang, my parents moved to Jakarta and opened this place in 1969â&#x20AC;?, said Madame Louise to start the story. â&#x20AC;&#x153;My mom had been well-known for her bestik recipe which sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s probably inherited from some Dutch connectionsâ&#x20AC;?. Bestik is actually a version of steak popular in Europe before and brought and popularized by the Dutch. The real difference is that nothing is actually grilled, like for example in one version that Miranda adapts is the use of boiled beef tongue poured with savory Dutch-style thick brown sauce with onions and mushrooms, served with French fries, carrots, beans, and cauliflower. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We also serve other bestik made from chicken, prawn, snapper, and the Germanstyle beef schnitzelâ&#x20AC;?, Madame Louise added. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all very classic looking and frankly, will whet your appetite from how it looks. The consistency is highly admirable as from time to time since I never experience a difference in taste and presentation. Miranda also serves Chinese and Indonesian dishes as well. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rare to taste something aside from the bestik whenever
Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m here but I do have to admit that Miranda makes a formidable sop buntut (oxtail soup) and tahu telor (fried tofu with eggs and served with bean sprouts, cabbage and sweet soy sauce with bird-eyeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chilies) as well. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Formerly, Miranda was known as Tan Goei â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a combination of my mother and fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s names, but during the New Order regime, businesses had to change their names into something Indonesian. We went with the name Miranda until now, but we always put the real name beside it to make the customers awareâ&#x20AC;?, Madame Louise said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Business may be hard sometimes but I am grateful because we run an honest business and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re proud of our journey until this point. I have no plans so far to alter anything I inherited from my parentsâ&#x20AC;?, said Madame Louise when asked about the future of Miranda. I can now comprehend why the owners of old food businesses want just retain the look and feel of their old restaurants or bakeries. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s simply because they want to be remembered just the way they are and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s indeed precious to hear people say, â&#x20AC;&#x153;How timeless the restaurant is!â&#x20AC;? or â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always a blast from the past coming here!â&#x20AC;? Nothing indeed, could ever replace the memories from the past, especially when it comes to something romantic and involves great food from an old kitchen. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how I see it from Miranda and the decades long history it holds.
MIRANDA (p.k.a TAN GOEI) | Jalan Besuki no. 1A, Menteng, Jakarta | +62 21 3193 7820, +62 21 3140 829
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CO N F E S S IO N O F A F O O DI E
UMI FADILAH by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
Meet lively Indonesian food blogger, Umi Fadilah. Umiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s job and foodie passion has brought her to the far corners of the world just for food, she shares with us some of her countless enviable dining experiences this month.
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CO N F E S S IO N O F A F O O DI E
U
mi Fadilah lives a career many only dream of. She works for Microsoft and designs Windows-based applications for many prominent companies in Indonesia. Her job comes with many perks and these enliven the storytelling she shares in her blog, www.umifadilah.com. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I started blogging when I was a student of IT back in Bandung Institute of Technology (ITB ) but I was pretty much like the rest when it came to blogging back then. It was all about my daily blabbering,â&#x20AC;? Umi shyly confessed. However over the years, her blog has seen multiple platform changes until she started to discover herself and realized that her real calling and love had always been food, until she arrived at her present blog format. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I was lucky to be given great opportunities to see the world but I think, what makes oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s journey worthwhile is actually the street food experience,â&#x20AC;? she explained. Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s proud of being a traveler who can avoid mainstream restaurants and opts to go for the hawkers wherever she goes. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I particularly enjoyed visiting the UNdXR_` V[ @\baU 8\_RN N[Q 6 aUV[X aURf UNcR a stronger traditional feel than when I was in Japan with its typical permanent stalls on the streets,â&#x20AC;? added Umi alongside her other interesting stories about her visit to the first ever Starbucks in Seattle, Pike Place Market, or even her last trip to Pontianak N[Q @V[TXNdN[T V[ DR`a 8NYVZN[aN[ When asked about the most memorable foodie experience, Umi instantly answered, â&#x20AC;&#x153;The World Street Food Congress last year in Singapore!â&#x20AC;? The event was a first of its kind, and was organized by Makansutra, it was ambitious and brought together worldfamous food experts like Anthony Bourdain and William Wongso as the speakers of the conference. It also indulged visitors with street foods from many countries including Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Vietnam, Thailand, India, the USA and Mexico. Last but not the least, Umi also shared her own personal indulgence when it comes to food. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The rest of the world may be a dessert lover but me, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a carb lover!â&#x20AC;? expressed Umi honestly and we laughed in an instant hearing that. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s this soft spot inside of her fancying anything made from carbs and wok-fried stuff like nasi goreng, mie goreng, kwetiau goreng, and not to mention, any kind of stir-fried Italian pasta. After all, for many food lovers, if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hearty then letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just put it in our belly! Visit Umiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blog at: www.umifadilah.com
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M AYA â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S M U S I N G
AN ENERGY-PACKED STEAK SALAD by MAYA ALDY photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
Upon hearing that this issue was all about beef, our dynamic chef Maya Aldy decided to pay homage to this sacred ingredient by composing something fresh and colorful. When it comes to what Maya cooks, she never forgets to make it healthy but also luscious.
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A F O O DI E â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S L I F E
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M AYA ’ S M U S I N G
I
have always been a meat lover and I love to cook it anyway I can. Often I pan fry the meat or roast it, but one technique that I like so much is to simply grill the beef. From small cuts of meat to big chunks, I have no problem with it because ultimately, it’s all delicious. I mean, who doesn’t like beef? Before heading to somewhere healthier, I just want to share with you my favorite kind of steak. Back in New York, I used to go out to the butcher and would buy a good rib eye – preferably somewhere around 300 grams. Then I would come back home and head to the roof to grill it. There, I would throw the meat on a super high heat flame grill and after it has charred on both sides, I simply put it aside for a slow cook session on a lower heat. After that, you have to rest it on the plate before you cut into it. You’ll see that the heat incorporates well, and the juices are sealed inside. It’s so heavenly! I think I am drooling as I write about it now! Haha! The beauty of it is although you see it all charred black outside but it’s actually medium inside. All I need is some good mustard, a pinch of salt and pepper and a nicely composed salad. With a full-flavored steak like that you won’t need anything else! Phew! Enough for that now and let’s head back to something nice as well as a substitute. I personally want to promote a clean eating lifestyle and of course, it has to be something that makes you feel good at the same time. In this issue, I want to feature a salad recipe with a lean cut of beef as the main star. As for the rest of the ingredients, I toss in fruits and vegetables, you can pretty much put anything you can find in your fridge or buy something fresh
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from the supermarket. First thing first though, I recommend you grill the meat to add that smoky flavor. Well, you can always pan-fried it or even do some slow cooking with olive oil but the thing is if you grill it, the deeper the flavors will be. Then put in some orange, ripened avocado, beets, arugula, or any kind of greens that you like. To add to the symphony of textures, simply crush some roasted peanuts and cashews. Well, there you have it, a clean and healthy lunch packed with omega 3, antioxidants, and the nutrients that you need. Add sauce to the salad if needed, or a glass of fresh juice to make it an even more energizing meal. How does that sound? There’s always a wonderful way to savor the beef, right? Not only is it easy to do, it’s also packed with flavor and on top of that, it’s healthy too! Grill ‘em up and give it a try, guys! Love,
M AYA â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S M U S I N G
LEAN STEAK SALAD WITH CRUSHED ROASTED PEANUTS, AVOCADO, BEET, ORANGE, AND ARUGULA Serves 1 large tart tin
INGREDIENTS: 80-100gr
Lean steak â&#x20AC;&#x201C; tenderloin or rump 30gr Salad leaves of your choice (arugula, watercress, lettuce, romaine lettuce, iceberg lettuce, etc) 1pc Ripe Avocado 1pc Orange 1pc Beetroot Roasted nuts of your choice (cashew, peanut, or pistachio) Simple dressing (mustard, lemon juice, or olive oil)
STEPS
Method: { 5RNa aUR T_VYY \_ ]N[ { @RN`\[ f\b_ ZRNa dVaU `NYa N[Q ]R]]R_ cook to your liking and set aside. { =_R]N_R f\b_ `NYNQ ZVe V[ aUR Nc\PNQ\ chunks, orange slices and the roasted beets with your simple dressing and season with salt and pepper. { @YVPR f\b_ ORRS QVNT\[NYYf { =_R]N_R f\b_ PUVYYRQ ]YNaR ]ba aUR `NYNQ mix in the center of your plate. { =YNPR aUR `YVPRQ ORRS \[ a\] { 1_VggYR `\ZR Q_R``V[T a\ aN`aR { @]_V[XYR `\ZR P_b`URQ [ba` \cR_ S\_ `\ZR texture.
Health benefits from eating beef: { 9RN[ ORRS ]_\cVQR` #! \S aUR QNVYf required value of protein in just 4 ounces, thus it becomes a very good source. { /RRS V` NY`\ N T\\Q `\b_PR \S vitamin B6 and vitamin B12, but it is also low in fat and that reduce the risk of colon cancer. { 9RN[ ORRS V` N T\\Q `\b_PR \S gV[P and selenium. Grass-fed beef is high in Omega-3 fatty acids, which have been found to reduce the risk of heart disease. { .QQVaV\[NYYf ORRS V` NY`\ _VPU V[ phosphorous and iron.
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DREAM (gravy)BOAT & THE SIDEKICKS by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
Cooking steak is not just all about the meat. Dedicating extra time in the kitchen to cook intriguing gravy and sides for the steak means a magnified experience when savoring the beef. Here, the young and talented Chef Yuda Bustara shares his recipes to give you the complete beef experience.
I
t all began with his fascination with cooking shows and their stars back in the 1990s. The likes Sisca Soewitomo and Rudi Choirudin got the young Yuda Bustara hooked onto cooking. Looking back, he really wanted to become a scientist. “Being a chef feels like being a scientist, we put our ideas into something and assemble every ingredient to create great dishes!” said Yuda. Being thankful is probably what Yuda feels every single day since his family supported him from the beginning. His mother in particularly, took notice of his talents and decided to send him to culinary school in Malaysia. After four years of study and training, he moved to Melbourne to work at Crown Casino Hotel. Learning to cook for 15,000 guests at a time at Crown on regular basis was a rewarding experience for Yuda but he decided to go back to Indonesia and shift careers slightly as writer, food stylist and a photographer. Until one day, he joined a PN`aV[T \]]\_ab[Vaf S\_ 8\Z]N`ACx` P\\XV[T show and became a host of his own show, like those whom he adored back then. He now also works very closely with Arimbi Nimpuno and Putri Miranti to run a private dining venture in Jakarta. In this issue, Yuda shares with us great pairings for steak meals that are very easy to cook and savor at home. The two gravies and three sides he shared are both simple and flavorful, which demonstrates Chef Yuda’s personal definition of comfort food, which also has to be healthy and hearty.
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GRAVY RECIPES
1 BEEF GRAVY Serves 2 cups
INGREDIENTS: 1/4 cup 1/4 cup 2 cups 1/4 tsp 1/4 tsp a`]
Butter Flour Beef broth Salt Pepper 8VaPUR[ O\b^bRa N[f herbs that you like)
STEPS
Method: { :RYa aUR ObaaR_ V[ N `NbPR]N[ \cR_ ZRQVbZ heat. Add flour and whisk together. Make sure to get all lumps visible. { .QQ `NYa N[Q ]R]]R_ { 0\\X S\_ " ZV[baR` \_ b[aVY aUR ZVeab_R starts to turn light brown. Be sure to stir constantly. { Ab_[ a\ Y\d URNa N[Q `Y\dYf NQQ aUR ORRS broth and still stir it constantly. Be careful that it will spit & bubbles. { .QQ aUR XVaPUR[ O\b^bRa { Ab_[ aUR URNa ONPX a\ ZRQVbZ { 0\[aV[bR `aV__V[T b[aVY aUR T_Ncf O\VY` N[Q thickens.
2 MUSHROOM GRAVY Serves 2 cups
INGREDIENTS: 4 cups 900gr 2 pcs 6 tbsp 1 tbsp 3 tbsp 1 tsp
Vegetable stock Mixed mushrooms (Portobello, shiitake, and cremini) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; thinly sliced Shallot â&#x20AC;&#x201C; finely chopped Unsalted butter Dry white wine Flour Thyme leaves
STEPS
Method: { ?RZ\cR `aRZ` S_\Z Zb`U_\\Z` =YNPR stems and stock in a saucepan over
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medium heat and bring to a boil. { ?RQbPR URNa a\ Y\d `VZZR_ S\_ minutes. Strain, set aside. { =YNPR aNOYR`]\\[` ObaaR_ V[ N YN_TR `XVYYRa over medium heat, add shallots and cook until translucent for 3 to 5 minutes. { .QQ Zb`U_\\Z` N[Q P\\X b[aVY mushrooms are soft, browned, and all liquid has evaporated. { .QQ dV[R VS b`V[T N[Q P\\X `aV__V[T dVaU N wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits on bottom of pan. Remove from heat, set aside. { 0\ZOV[R _RZNV[V[T aNOYR`]\\[` butter and flour in a medium saucepan over medium heat; cook, stirring until incorporated and browned, 2 to 3 minutes. { @Y\dYf dUV`X V[ `a\PX( O_V[T a\ N O\VY whisking until thickened. { @aV_ V[ _R`R_cRQ Zb`U_\\Z ZVeab_R N[Q thyme.
GRAVY RECIPES
1 MIXED MUSHROOMS WITH EGGS Serves 2 portions
INGREDIENTS: 900gr
4 pcs 2 cloves 1/4 cup 3 tbsp 2 tbsp to taste to taste
STEPS
Mixed mushrooms (champignon, cremini, shiitake, and oyster) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; trimmed and thinly sliced Large eggs Garlic - sliced Dry white wine Extra-virgin olive oil Thyme leaves Salt Red-pepper flakes
Method: { =_RURNa \cR[ a\ 0 { 5RNa \VY N[Q TN_YVP V[ N YN_TR \cR[]_\\S skillet over medium heat. Stir, until garlic is fragrant but not browned, about 1 minute. { 6[P_RN`R URNa a\ ZRQVbZ UVTU NQQ mushrooms, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and golden brown, about 10 minutes. { @RN`\[ dVaU `NYa N[Q _RQ ]R]]R_ SYNXR` { .QQ dV[R `P_N]V[T b] O_\d[RQ OVa` @aV_ V[ thyme, remove from heat. { :NXR ! `UNYY\d dRYY` V[ Zb`U_\\Z mixture and crack 1 egg into each well. Transfer to oven and cook until egg whites have just set, about 4 minutes. { @RN`\[ RTT` dVaU `NYa N[Q _RQ ]R]]R_ flakes.
2 THREE KINDS OF MASHED POTATO Serves 2 portions each
INGREDIENTS: 8 pcs
15 cloves 1 1/2 cups 1/2 cup to taste
Russet potatoes (can be substituted with sweet potato or purple potato) Garlic - peeled Milk Butter â&#x20AC;&#x201C; cut 1 stick to small pieces Salt
STEPS
Method: { =RRY ]\aNa\R` N[Q Pba V[a\ `ZNYY QVPR` { 6[ N OVT `a\PX ]\a ]ba TN_YVP N[Q ]\aNa\R` in and fill the pot with water. Add 1 tablespoon salt into the pot. { /_V[T a\ N O\VY _RQbPR URNa N[Q `VZZR_ until potatoes are easily pierced with the tip of a paring knife, 25 to 30 minutes. { 1_NV[ _Rab_[ TN_YVP N[Q ]\aNa\R` a\ ]N[ { @aV_ \cR_ ZRQVbZ UVTU URNa b[aVY Q_f a\ minutes. Remove from heat. { 6[ N `ZNYY `NbPR]N[ O_V[T ZVYX a\ N O\VY and pour over potatoes. Add butter and 1 teaspoon of salt. { :N`U b[aVY `Z\\aU N[Q P_RNZf
3 GRILLED CORN WITH CHEESY MAYO Serves 4 portions
INGREDIENTS: 4 pcs 1 pc
1/3 cup 1 tbsp 2 tbsp 1/4 tsp to taste to taste
STEPS
Corn Lime â&#x20AC;&#x201C; cut into wedges for serving Parmesan - grated Butter - melted Mayonnaise Chili powder Salt Pepper
Method: { 5RNa T_VYY a\ UVTU =YNPR PURR`R \[ N ]YNaR or in a shallow bowl, set aside. { /_b`U P\_[ dVaU ObaaR_ N[Q `RN`\[ dVaU `NYa and pepper. { 4_VYY ab_[V[T RcR_f a\ ZV[baR` b[aVY tender and slightly charred for 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool for 2 to 3 minutes. { /_b`U P\_[ dVaU ZNf\[[NV`R N[Q _\YY V[ cheese to coat. Sprinkle with chili powder and serve with lime wedges.
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Do Not Try This At Home
Our publisher Richmond Blando, himself an avid home cook, shares with us some of his favorite beef recipes this month. Try them out at home!
by RICHMOND BLANDO
1
SIRLOIN SHISH KEBAB Planning a barbeque to impress some of your friends but not exactly sure what to grill outside of the regular stuff, here is a recipe you can try that is not too difficult but may actually look fancy.
INGREDIENTS: 1 tbs 1 tsp
3 pcs 1 lb 1/2 tsp 1/2 tsp 2 tsp 2 pcs peeled 1 pc 1 pc 1 pc 1 pc
Olive oil Fresh rosemary, chopped Large garlic cloves, minced Beef sirloin, trimmed and cut into 1-inch cubes Sea salt Black pepper, freshly ground Fresh lemon juice Small pineapples, and sliced Large red onion, cut into 1-inch pieces Red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces Green bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1 inch pieces (optional) Zucchini sliced and quartered (optional)
STEPS
Method: { 0\ZOV[R aRN`]\\[` \VY _\`RZN_f N[Q garlic in a large zip-top bag. Add beef; seal and marinate in refrigerator 1 hour, turning occasionally. { ?RZ\cR ORRS S_\Z ONT( QV`PN_Q ZN_V[NQR Thread beef and vegetables alternately evenly onto 6 wooden skewers. (Note: DO NOT use metal skewers for beef). { @]_V[XYR dVaU ! aRN`]\\[ `NYa N[Q Â&#x153; teaspoon black pepper. { 0\ZOV[R _RZNV[V[T aRN`]\\[ \VY N[Q WbVPR in a large bowl. Add onion, bell pepper and pineapple, tossing to coat. { =YNPR XRONO` \[ aUR ON_ORPbR P\NaRQ dVaU cooking spray. { 4_VYY XRONO` & ZV[baR` \_ b[aVY QR`V_RQ degree of doneness. { @R_cR ORaaR_ dVaU S_VRQ _VPR
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SIRLOIN SHISH KEBAB
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This is the ultimate stoner food, not that I ever did get stoned, but this is usually on the menu after spaghetti night with a lot of leftover ground beef. You can buy the tortilla wrap at the store or if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re too lazy you can make it yourself (but this goes both ways).
INGREDIENTS: The meat filling: 1 lb 1 ounce 3/4 - 1 cup
90% lean ground beef Dry burrito mix (Can substitute with Taco Seasoning Mix) Water, warm (Up to 1 cup. The more water added, the longer cooking time to boil it down.)
Tortilla and condiments: 4 pcs Burrito-size flour tortillas 6 tbs Sour cream 1 cup Four-cheese Mexican blend cheese (can substitute with cheddar, or any â&#x20AC;&#x201C; cheese in the fridge) 2 pcs Roma tomatoes, diced 4 pcs Green onions, sliced into thin rings 8 tbs Salsa (Authentic Mexican Salsa)
STEPS
Method: { DVaU f\b_ PYRN[ UN[Q` `aN_a Of NQQV[T 1 cup of warm water and the burrito seasoning packet in a large pot. { =YNPR aUR _Nd UNZOb_TR_ V[ aUR YV^bVQ N[Q use your hands to break all down so there are no chunks. Bring the mixture to a full boil then reduce the heat and allow to simmer, stirring occasionally, until all the liquid has been absorbed. { =YNPR N a\_aVYYN \[ N ]YNaR N[Q P\cR_ dVaU a damp towel. Microwave on high for 15 seconds. Remove tortilla from the microwave, uncover. { @YVTUaYf \SS PR[aR_ \S aUR a\_aVYYN `]_RNQ on 2 tablespoons of sour cream on the tortilla. { =YNPR ! \S aUR T_\b[Q ORRS \[ a\] \S the sour cream. { =YNPR ! Pb] \S aUR PURR`R OYR[Q \[ a\] of the ground beef. { @]_V[XYR \[ a\ZNa\R` N[Q T_RR[ \[V\[` A\] with 2 tablespoons of Authentic Mexican Salsa. { 3\YQ aUR S_\[a \S aUR a\_aVYYN \cR_ aUR filling. { AbPX aUR YRSa N[Q _VTUa `VQR` \S aUR a\_aVYYN inside as you roll. Roll the belly on top of the back so the weight of the filling holds it together.
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BEEF STEAK TAGALOG This recipe brings back a lot of good memories. This is the first thing I learned to cook after high school. A recipe I stole from my mom but later on tweaked it a bit but it is what I consider my ultimate comfort food.
INGREDIENTS: 1 pound
4 cloves 2 pcs 1/3 cup 1/4 cup
Tenderloin steak, thinly sliced (alt. sukiyaki beef) Garlic, peeled, crushed Medium red onions, cut into rings Dark soy sauce 8RPN] .`V[ Sweet soy sauce 8RPN] :N[V`
6 tbs 3 tbs
STEPS
Fresh calamansi juice (alt. lemon) Olive oil
Method: { 0\ZOV[R QN_X `\f `NbPR `dRRa `\f `NbPR garlic, and calamansi juice and sugar in a bowl. Set aside. { =YNPR ORRS V[ N [\[ ZRaNYYVP O\dY .QQ aUR soy sauce marinade and mix to combine. { 0\cR_ dVaU ]YN`aVP d_N] =YNPR V[ aUR refrigerator to marinade for 30 minutes. { :RN[dUVYR URNa aNOYR`]\\[` \S \VY V[ N large non-stick fry pan. Saute half of the onion on medium-high heat for 2-3 minutes or until soft.
{ .QQ aUR ORRS N[Q aUR ZN_V[NQR a\ aUR pan. Turn heat to high and cook beef for 5-8 minutes, stirring frequently, until itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s boiling. Add remaining oil. Turn heat on low. { @VZZR_ N[Q _RQbPR `aV__V[T \PPN`V\[NYYf until desired thickness is reached and the meat is tender. { .QQ _RZNV[V[T \[V\[ N[Q P\\X S\_ ZV[baR Turn off the heat and cover the pan. Onions should be just cooked and a bit crunchy. { 4N_[V`U dVaU PU\]]RQ PUVcR` @R_cR dVaU steaming cooked rice. Note: { 6S f\b SV[Q aUR `NbPR a\\ `NYaf NQQ N OVa of water.
3
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STUFF OF LEGENDS
SUKIJO â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Presidential Chef by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
This month, The Foodie Magazine has the special privilege of meeting Chef Sukijo, the chef who has the unique distinction of serving five Indonesian presidents.
STUFF OF LEGENDS
STUFF OF LEGENDS
â&#x20AC;&#x153;I was literally on my own when I cooked 500 portions of fried rice with eggs and satay!â&#x20AC;?, said Sukijo about him cooking for an Indonesian food promotion in Peru.
H
onestly, seeking references about Chef Sukijo was not easy but I was led by a string of good luck thankfully. His appearance recently on local TV shows shed some light about his whereabouts and additionally, some people have been talking about his steakhouse in Ciledug, Tangerang. But one might wonder, who is he really? Well, on one Saturday afternoon, I braced myself for the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;longâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; journey to see the chef into my uncharted part Jakarta. Well, even if Ciledug is one of the most populated suburbs in Jakarta, it is not famous for foodie hunts. People would rather go farther to Bintaro, Pantai Indah 8N]bX \_ .YNZ @ba_N a\ Q\ aUV` [\dNQNf` On top of that, Ciledug is infamous for its heavy traffic, but when it comes to try out a steakhouse run by a legendary figure like Sukijo, and meet the guy himself, distance was not an issue. So, after almost a two hour drive from central Jakarta â&#x20AC;&#x201C; thanks to the jam, we finally arrived at Jimbaran Food Village - a complex of small buildings designated for restaurants and hang out places. Steak Bakulâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;e, Chef Sukijoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s steakhouse, is among a few restaurants there and certainly is a very modest one. Despite that, it is frequented by many visitors and I must admit that the whole scene around the restaurant made it comfortable and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also tucked a bit deep in the complex, making it far from the hustle and bustle of the main street. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not hard to look for the chef, dressed in his jacket, he is all smiles as we enter. Chef Sukijo greeted us warmly and sat with us to tell the highlights of his career
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which spans four decades. Originally, he started as a maintenance staff for Hilton Jakarta in the late 1970s. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I never had any training in the kitchen before. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m basically a handy man who helps with maintenance of the kitchen,â&#x20AC;? Sukijo said. His hardworking nature and good attitude were discovered by a German chef of the hotel and Sukijo was asked to work as a cook helper there instead. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I was really glad with the offer and I accepted it right away and off I went for a series of basic training as a kitchen crew,â&#x20AC;? he reminisced. After a year of working in the kitchen, Sukijo was already entrusted to promote Indonesian cuisine in many places around the world, to as far as Egypt and Canada. From the Hilton, Sukijo moved to two other hotels, eventually landing the role of sous chef. He has always been blessed with the support and trust by the people around him thanks to his modesty and hard working nature. His travels abroad did not stop and he continued to promote Indonesian cuisine wherever he went. Among all of his travels around the globe, he recalled that his most memorable experience was when he served 500 guests in Lima, Peru. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I was literally on my own when I cooked 500 portions of fried rice with eggs and satay alongside several other dishes. Lucky that the local staff helped me with the plating,â&#x20AC;? Sukijo laughed reminiscing about it. His 37 hour flight to Peru was indeed worthwhile as his guests were all pleased with the food promotion event and he got invited again the following year. Aside from these wonderful
experiences, Sukijo had always been entrusted also to oversee the food on presidential banquets and luncheons under the banner of the hotel he was working with at that time. He led his team to cater the dining needs of five presidencies since the time of Suharto, Habibie, Gus Dur, Megawati and until SBY quite recently before he resigned in 2009. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Among the presidents I have served during my career, Habibie was probably the one I was closest to. I used to cook him breakfast quite often and he even didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t bother waiting to be served. He came up to the kitchen to fetch his omelette from me personally!â&#x20AC;?, said Sukijo. â&#x20AC;&#x153;On separate occasions, he would always come by to the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurant and always look for me to cook him his dinnerâ&#x20AC;?. Sukijo told us also that he remembered about being reminded to always prepare SBYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favorite dish during every event he oversaw. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;â&#x20AC;?Please donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget the presidentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s soto ayam, chefâ&#x20AC;?, and of course I always remember to make one anyway,â&#x20AC;? Sukijo said imitating the assistants who reminded him. Like a wise sage, after all the worldly fuss he had gone through for years, he returned back home to become the master of his modest steakhouse with probably one of the best grilled ribs I have ever had, finished with his secret BBQ sauce that everyone must try. It may be far to seek wisdom from a 61 year-old legendary chef, but the trip was worth it and we got back home late in the afternoon, facing the traffic again but with hearts and stomachs happily filled.
STUFF OF LEGENDS
â&#x20AC;&#x153;He came up to the kitchen to fetch his omelette from me personally!â&#x20AC;?, said Sukijo about former president B.J. Habibie.
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PA N T R Y 1 0 1
SAUCES FOR THE RED HEAVEN by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
Ancient yet versatile, beef can be transformed into anything that we like. You can have the red meat grilled the cowboy’s way or Asian style to suit your preference. Here, we have the sauce suggestions for that and why we picked it in the first place.
About Steak Sauce:
Although anything steak-related is commonly believed to have originated from the United States, steak sauce as a key component of a steak meal, was actually invented in the United Kingdom and is more popularly known as ‘brown sauce’ there. From the sauces we feature here, there is one that actually has been in existence since the turn of 19th century and is supposedly created by King George IV’s personal chef. The brown sauce has similar characteristics with Worcestershire sauce and generally consists of tomatoes, vinegar, raisins, orange, herbs, spices and corn syrup. In the UK, every supermarket has their own concoction of brown sauces, pretty much perhaps like in the US with its endless variants of barbecue sauce.
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Bull’s-Eye Barbecue Sauce
Sweet Baby Ray’s Honey Barbecue Sauce
Created by Kraft, Bull’sEye Barbecue Sauce is a popular brand which was first introduced in 1985. We recommend the use of this Hickory Smoke variant to give your steaks that good ole smoky flavor came. It was also reported that Burger King in the US uses Bull’s-Eye Barbecue Sauce officially for one of its famed burgers.
It all started when an unknown Chicago chef entered his homemade BBQ sauce in the US biggest rib cook-off contest, beat hundreds of contenders and created history that made this sauce more famous. Home users have proven that the consistency of the ingredients of Sweet Baby Ray’s Honey Barbecue Sauce is simply flawless. Some are even inspired to make their own version based on Sweet Baby Ray’s formula!
PA N T R Y 1 0 1
Beksul Bulgogi Marinade Sauce
MyTaste Black Pepper Sauce
A.1. Bold & Spicy Tabasco Steak Sauce
Everyone loves Korean food nowadays and trying to make your own bulgogi at home is a good start to make it affordable. CJ’s Beksul sauce series has that bulgogi marinade sauce that will help you give that authentic Korean taste. Aside from the bulgogi sauce, Beksul has another variant also for grilling kalbi or beef ribs.
You can always go local nowadays even for sauces and Foodindo’s MyTaste sauce line has a perfect Chinese-style black pepper. It is as simple as putting your beef alongside the onions and bell peppers and just a little splash of the sauce to make it heavenly. By the way, it was said that one of the biggest fast food franchises uses this sauce for their famous black pepper beef submarine.
<_VTV[NYYf S_\Z aUR B8 and has been around since the early 19th century, A.1. Steak Sauce is known far. It’s popularity started in the United States in mid the 1800s and is now around the world. The Bold & Spicy variant was meant to give the kick in the mouth that you’ll actually enjoy and made by using the worldfamous McIlhenny’s Tabasco. That’s something you’ll want to have aside from the usual steak sauces.
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W H AT C H E F E AT S
MICHAEL WHYAG by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
Others may choose expensive restaurants or decadent desserts as their guilty pleasures, but for Michael Whyag – a self-made chef with hotel and restaurant background, it’s all about a simple treat his mom made for him many years ago.
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s somebody who finally realized the joy of cooking not from a young age, Michael Whyag became a student of many cuisines from local to Russian, especially during his hotel days back in Bali. Since making the most of his time with studying has always been his strong suit, his relatively short trip to France was made worthwhile by taking several short courses at Le Cordon Bleu. As much as he admired how the French pride themselves with details and standardization of the cuisine, he bursts passionately with colorful details when he talks about Indonesian cuisine. Clearly, his love for local cuisine is what that energizes him, especially with current role as general manager and chef for a reputable Indonesian restaurant in a well-known Jakarta shopping mall. Even though he has studied different cuisines and even the gastronomic aspects that circle around food in general, it all goes back to basics if you ask Chef Michael about his guilty pleasures. We found out that Mike is a big fan of anything related to tofu! “I have been a picky eater even since I was a kid and my mom decided to cook me mashed tofu for some reason. Since then, it has become a life long love affair with tofu,” he confessed. That night, he treated himself after a hard day’s work with an easy treat of sauteed tofu and bean sprouts with slices of tomatoes and plenty of chilies. This particular dish itself is a traditional recipe that goes well with warm rice and is something that you can find in many homes and warteg (Indonesian-style diner) across the country. “So, name anything you can do with tofu and I will surely eat it,” said Mike challengingly. So, despite his demanding daily schedule involving how to manage the restaurant well and his current project to renew the menu, apparently there’s always a time out for a quick bite of his personal indulgence.
SAPI BALI | Jalan Cibulan Raya no. 17A, Jakarta - Indonesia | +62 21 7278 6442
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