FISH TALES INSIDE
George Calombaris Edward Kwon Bart Van Olphen Norwegian Salmon
IAL SUPPLEMEN C E T SP SEP15 | volume 2, Issue 09 Rp. 55,000 | S$ 8.00
MELBOURNE COFFEE TRAILS
Be Naturally Beautiful “Being happy, healthy and beautiful is easy with Éternel Concept’s lifestyle treatments.” - Ina Thomas
É TERNEL CONCEP T Jalan Gunawarman No.16, 2nd floor Kebayoran Baru - Jakarta Selatan 021.722.9502 | 0821.1060.3082 info@eternelconcept.com
P U B L I S H E R ’ S N OT E
Publisher (TA)
Richmond Blando
Publisher Jed V. Doble Managing Editor
Kyle Gregorio
Art Director
Juke Bachtiar
Photographer
Dennie Ramon
Fish Tales This has been a fishy month for us at The Foodie Mag. I’ve always liked eating fish and cooking it. I recall weekends of grilled stuffed milkfish or fish head Sinigang sa Miso (tamarind based soup with miso). Thinking about those makes my mouth water. That said, it was a fun month getting to work on lots of fish. This month also graced us with a number of visiting celebrity chefs. The month began with a visit from Melbourne chef and MasterChef Australia judge George Calombaris. Then we had Korean chef and food ambassador Edward Kwon who came for a few days for events with Shangri-La Hotel, Jakarta. In July, we met Dutch fish expert Bart van Olphen and got to talk about his initiatives on sustainable fish. This month we also feature a special supplement on the Melbourne Coffee Trails, sponsored by Tourism Victoria. Our caffeine addicted readers will enjoy reading about Australia’s coffee capital. There are loads of other recipes and features in this issue, too many to mention here. Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter to see more up to date foodie news.
Contributors
Himawan Sutanto Akhmad Baihaki (Aki) Sahiri Loing Rian Farisa Gupta Sitorus Primo Rizky
Administration
Boedy Astuti
Distribution
Mukti Pelupessy
Enjoy our Fish Tales Issue! JED V. DOBLE
PT. NUSA BINTANG LESTARI Jl. Gunawarman no. 16 • Kebayoran Baru South Jakarta • Indonesia Tel: +62 21 2905 3959 www.thefoodiemag.com
FISH TALES INSIDE
George Calombaris Edward Kwon Bart Van Olphen Norwegian Salmon
CIAL S PE SEP15 | volume 2, Issue 09 Rp. 55,000 | S$ 8.00
SU P P L E M
ENT
MELBOURNE COFFEE TRAILS
Photograph by HIMAWAN SUTANTO
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The Foodie Magazine is published monthly by Bold Prints Publishing. Jalan Gunawarman No. 16, Jakarta, Indonesia. The Foodie Magazine and its logo are registered trademarks of Bold Prints Publishing. COPYRIGHT 2015. The Publisher reserves the right to accept or reject all editorial and advertising material. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or copied without the explicit written consent of the Publisher. Neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any error and omission, nor any action taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All rights reserved. ISSN: 2355-0198.
BUFFET
Sunday Brunch AT C ’ s
Starts from Rp. 700,000++ per person. 11:30 AM - 3:00 PM. Offering everything from healthy salads, char-grilled meats and a plentiful selection of fresh seafood such as lobsters, oysters and prawns to a variety of Asian dishes and a delicious dessert buffet. To book your table, call 021 2992 1383 or email cs.ghjakarta@hyatt.com
C O N T R I B U TO R S
THE GUEST LIST
HIMAWAN SUTANTO
AKHMAD BAIHAKI (AKI)
SAHIRI LOING
Photographer
Writer
Himawan did portraiture for editorial, advertising and design clients for many years and also had a stint doing commercial photography. His love for food and travel brought him naturally to turn his lens on food and lifestyle which he thoroughly enjoys. He has recently been traveling to take photos for a global hotel chain. When not away shooting photos he tries to spend as much time with his newborn son.
Entusiastic and dedicated Aki has been a professional photographer foro _ver 10 years now. Originally from Mojokerto, East Java, in his spare time, he loves to travel, watch and play his favorite sports and listen to music.
Venturing outside his comfort zone of office life, Sahiri now spends his time working as a freelance writer for the fun part of life. His love of movies and dining out keeps him busy in his spare time.
Photographer
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RIAN FARISA Writer
Once a foodie, always a foodie. Rian started his popular food blog gastronomy-aficionado. com in 2009. He has since become a culinary contributor for lifestyle and inflight magazines and newspapers. His job ranges from having intriguing conversations with celebrity chefs to memorizing the French names of Michelin-starred dishes he encounters. But at the end of the day he enjoys his scouring the city for good soul food with his beloved wife. Â
GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY Writers
This dynamic duo has always had a strong passion for food. They decided to enter the culinary industry in 2012 by launching their handcrafted gourmet ice cream brand, although none of them had prior culinary experience. Both have day jobs, Gupta works as country communications manager for the global leader in power and automation technologies, while Primo, heads Studio Geometry, an independent publishing house that focuses on creative culture.
TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
The Foodie magazine volume 2, Issue 09
Things That Make You Go Yum 14 Fish Tales
Publisher’s Corner 16 Conquering Fish
The Foodie’s List 18 20 22 26
Sunday Brunch At C’s Steak & Seafood Restaurant Intercontinental Jakarta’s Sunday Brunch A Delightful Dinner With Chef Mandif New Cocktail Selection at Mesh, The Opposite House
Special Supplement 27 Melbourne The Coffee Trails
Cover Feature 36 42 46 50 56 62 66 70 74
George Calombaris, Melbourne’s Culinary Ambassador Discovering South America Globally Korean Fish Tales The Best of Both Worlds Something Fishy at Monty’s Fashionable Food Soul Food Christopher’s Bali
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TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
Went There Ate That 78 Koh-m get Sam-ui!!
Iconic 80 RM Medan Baru
Taking It To The Streets 82 Ikan Nila Pak Ugi 84 Otak-Otak Binatu An
Confessions Of A Foodie 86 A Wealth Of Experience
Tried And Tipsied 88 Pairing Wine And Fish
Tried And Tested 90 Whole Red Snapper, Three Ways
Stuff Of Legends 92 Oom Mucharam Endi
Pantry 101 96 Cook It Like You Mean It
What Chef Eats 98 Tomohiko Omori
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/colla’bro’asian/ A brotherhood collaboration between Reynold Poernomo and Kha Nguyen with Nomz Chef Arnold Poernomo and Pastry Chef Kim Pangestu
Kha Nguyen
Reynold Poernomo
Kim Pangestu
POP UP DINNER
23 - 25 september 2015 RSVP - info@nomzjakarta.com
NOMZ KITCHEN & PASTRY GRAND INDONESIA, EAST MALL GF #06-07
021 23581211
www.nomzjakarta.com
Arnold Poernomo
T H I N G S T H AT M A K E Y O U G O Y U M by JED DOBLE
Things That Make You Go Yum is monthly column featuring our choices of the best
food photos on Instagram. If you think you have a great photo worth sharing with us, tag it with #TTMYGY and @TheFoodieMag
@cinderellalif
@elisabethsherlly
@arinsoe @henny _ fitri
@hongwon79
@fushunhawk
@iamhere.world
@intanyusans
@jo.slim1
@hong _ wenhua
@kevincuan 14 | www. thefoodiemag.com
@kipperkippkip
T H I N G S T H AT M A K E Y O U G O Y U M It’s all about fish this month, be it fried, steamed, grilled etc. for this month’s Things That Make You Go Yum. We have chosen the best of the best photos, on Instagram, of fish dishes that will surely make you crave for fish.
@lilaa _ grny
@kram _ niki
@malaccamakanking
@nurseptaisih
@yanie.affan
@lucygovin
@mandyandchris
@rolex888rolex
@wulan _ suling
@meyrlin _ batlolona
@ririn _ 126
@uriep _ abinyaziyad www. thefoodiemag.com | 15
P U B L I S H E R ’ S CO R N E R
Conquering Fish by RICHMOND BLANDO
Fear of fish can afflict even the most confident cook…
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My general observation is fish does not appeal the same way other meats do. I avoid cooking it mainly because to cook fish for dinner is to live with its smell for a day and a half and the other reason is the constant disappointment that I would have to live with after eating so many fancy fish dishes in fancy restaurants, I feel like I end up insulting the fish. However, I still go every Sunday to the market and I find myself immersed in the fishmongers’ various genus of fishes and other seafood and then I get excited about what to get and then the metaphorical cold water is poured over me with the realization that I don’t know how to cook a particular fish, so I end up buying the ones I am familiar with like salmon and cod fillets. What more seeing a whole fish? It can seem intimidating, but I soon learned that it could be very easy to cook. Some people I know firmly believe that fish can’t even be kept overnight in the refrigerator without spoiling. In truth, fish is like any other kind of protein, it’s perishable. A really nice piece of fish
lasts a few days in the fridge, as long as it’s been treated properly from the moment of catch. That usually means eviscerated on deck, frozen or flown to market within hours and kept cold at all points on the way to the case. During my college years and many weekends that followed, I wanted to cook a fish fillet the way I cook all my favorite proteins (steaks, chicken, lamb chops): over high-enough heat to bring on the browning that makes food crisp, appetizing and fragrant. The result: overcooked and flavorless fillets. Then, after many years (years because I hardly cook it) of disappointment a friend showed me a solution that could not be simpler… butter. The best way to cook a fish fillet, he said, is on
top of the stove in a heavy skillet, with constant attention — that was the easy part, as it takes less than five minutes from start to finish. The short cooking time seriously reduces the chance of lingering smells. The sear should be in oil that will not burn over high heat: grape seed, canola or even extra-virgin olive oil, then before you turn it over, add a nut of butter to the pan, flip the fillet and baste furiously. The melting butter will keep the flesh tender, help form a tasty crust and finally brown lightly to become a sauce for the finished dish. A few fresh herb sprigs tossed in at the same time perfume the whole thing nicely. If the pan and contents get too hot during the cooking and threaten to scorch, she advised, add a bit more cold butter or squeeze in the juice of half a lemon.
P U B L I S H E R ’ S CO R N E R OTHER COOKING METHODS The easiest method is roasting, any size fish can be roasted whole, but 1- to 4-pound fish are ideal for home cooking. Have your fishmonger gut and scale the fish for you. Cut diagonal slashes in the fish if you wish (this gives you a great way to peek at the doneness as it’s cooking). Stuff the fish with aromatics like herbs and citrus. Roast on an oiled baking sheet at high heat (425°) until cook through, about 10 minutes per inch thickness (measure the thickest part of the fish). Skin-on fillets are best cooked by pansearing. It is the best approach for fillets under 3/4 inch in thickness. Dry your fillets, season then and lay them into a hot, oiled skillet. Press the skin down onto the skillet to crisp it. After a few minutes, the fillets will start to turn opaque on the edges. Put you skillet directly into a preheated 425° oven for 8-10 minutes, until cooked through. As far as grilling is concerned, skin-on fillets can stick to your grill. Two tricks that work well: 1. Make sure your grill is medium-hot before adding your oiled fish fillets to it 2. Mayonnaise makes a non-traditional, but effective, non-stick surface for your fish. Rub the skin side of the fish with the mayonnaise and put the fillets skin side down on the grill. Cover the grill, and cook, without turning the fillets over, until cooked through.
BEST FOR GRILLING: Tuna Thick, fresh cuts of tuna steaks that you can season liberally and throw on the grill without worrying it’ll fall through the grates. Snapper This ever-popular white fish stands up to the grill well when cooked whole. The skin helps keep the tasty meat from getting overcooked. Salmon It’s meaty enough to satisfy even the manly men out there, yet light enough that calorie-counters don’t have to fear for their waistlines.
BEST FOR STEAMING: Pomfret The silver one, if it is caught in the wild, it will command a higher price. Snapper (Red or Golden) This fish is moist, soft and with a mild yet generous flavor. Marble Goby (or soon hock) The texture of is delicate and smooth, just place a few pieces of sliced old ginger and some spring onion (white section). Remember to discard the liquid in the steaming tray this will give the fish a bitter and fishy taste. Pink Tilapia. It is an under-rated fish but it is quite affordable and tasty.
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F O O DI E L I S T S
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SUNDAY BRUNCH at C’s STEAK & SEAFOOD RESTAURANT by RIAN FARISA
Give an idea to dine out at C’s Steak and Seafood Restaurant and everyone will be intrigued. Utter the magic word “Sunday Brunch” and everyone will go crazy over it. Follow us as we explore the revitalized Sunday Brunch at the famed signature restaurant at Grand Hyatt Jakarta.
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here’s probably a reason why the Grand Hyatt Jakarta’s C’s Steak & Seafood Restaurant is an establishment that upholds different characters in terms of its culinary presentations. Traditionally of course, people would perceive C’s excellence in the domain of steak and seafood based on its name, but when you actually get to know it deeper, there’s more to it than the name. C’s is known traditionally with its Asian cuisine and moreover, it became the host for several appearances of international chefs who brought their own distinctive background to enrich the image of C’s in the presence of its loyal patrons. With that, one would imagine what would happen should C’s one day reinvigorate the festivity again that
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showcases all of its culinary might on the very same day, the institution that everyone in the world knows as the “Sunday Brunch”. The day has come and the answer for that would be a complete offering of freshness, creativity, and the showcasing of each ingredient at its best – from the grill, the sea, Asian delicacies, and sweet notes from the desserts. Start fresh with a liberal serving of freshly shucked Fine de Claire oysters, tropical lobsters, Alaskan king crab legs, prawns, and an array of beautifully arranged salad, charcuterie, and assorted cheese. Once you have settled in with the appetizing openers, head next to the grilling section where not only grilled seafood became the star but enticing cuts of meat are competing as well and ready to be carved upon order.
Among the premium choices here are the lamb chops and the ribs, but from foodie to foodie, be sure to secretly ask the master of the house – Chef Matt Demery to fire up a generous cut of wagyu short ribs and if you are lucky, he might relish it with homemade sambal hijau. Delish! Head next to the Asian section as C’s is traditionally known for the wok-fried dishes from seasonal vegetables to fried rice and up to the mud crab. What’s not to miss also are the Peking Duck rolls and the dim sum. To end the festivity, head straight to the wonderfully arranged dessert section where you can feast upon apple crumbles, chocolate pies, cheesecake, and homemade ice cream for the coup de grace of such a wonderful Sunday - only at C’s Steak & Seafood Restaurant.
F O O DI E L I S T S
C’S STEAK & SEAFOOD RESTAURANT | Grand Hyatt Jakarta, Jalan M. H. Thamrin Kav. 28-30, Jakarta | T: +62 21 29921234 www.jakarta.grand.hyatt.com
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F O O DI E L I S T S
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INTERCONTINENTAL JAKARTA’S SUNDAY BRUNCH by RIAN FARISA photographs by INTERCONTINENTAL JAKARTA MIDPLAZA AND RIAN FARISA
Known traditionally as the powerhouse name as one of the best places for Sunday Brunch in the capital city, finally the InterContinental Jakarta Midplaza reintroduces again the reasons to us on why we should spend our Sunday feasting here over great food and drinks, and nowhere else.
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oing strong under the leadership of Executive Chef Gianluca Visciglia for some time now, the chef has been in a creative spree to bring the flavors of Northern Italy down here to Scusa as the Italian restaurant of the hotel. Not just that, Rasa as the all-day dining restaurant of InterContinental Jakarta Midplaza has prepared great things for the patrons as well from its international cuisine. Each of these two restaurants specifies itself in harmony to not just what we actually want for our brunch but also our needs. For families with kids, Rasa clearly has the edge. While there’s a rich array of intriguing food stations from the sushi corner, BBQ grills, tandoori kitchen, and the hot wok counter; the little guests will receive special treatment as well. Childcare nannies are provided to supervise the children’s activities from face painting, cooking class, to a pantomime show; while their appetites are also indulged with a special kid’s corner filled with childhood treats and drinks. To add to the excitements, the use of the swimming pool and cabana is also provided for families who choose to spend their brunch at Rasa! Meanwhile at Scusa, it’s time to kick back and relax as the food will be presented to your dining table straight by
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the esteemed crews of the restaurant. Starting from the oysters; be prepared to be awed by a series of antipasti ranging from creamy buffalo stracciatella and tomato carpaccio, the cold cuts, foie gras terrine, and more. Heading for the primi; intriguing pasta types from tagliatelle, maltagliati, farfalle, pappardelle, or gnocchi are yours to select and to pair with traditional sauces with the chef’s special twist. Or perhaps you are aiming for the Chef Gianluca’s special recipes? Then opt for lemon flavoured risotto with prawns, mushroom ravioli with black truffle, or the pappardelle with duck ragout. The best part of an Italian feast would be the secondi part, all thanks to the limitless options between the fruits of the sea and the best from the land for grills. Representing the best from both terrains are the king prawns, tenderloin, lamb chop, quail, lobsters, tuna, sausages, and many more. What’s left to do is to end it in sweet notes from a myriad of Italian traditional desserts or gelato. For a very considerate price of IDR 395,000++ (Scusa) and IDR 375,000++ (Rasa); we recommend you to book in advance, seal the deal, and get ready to indulge yourself for a great Sunday at InterContinental Jakarta Midplaza.
F O O DI E L I S T S
SCUSA / RASA | InterContinental Jakarta Midplaza, Jalan Jend. Sudirman Kav. 10-11, Jakarta | T: +62 21 251 0888
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A Delightful Dinner With Chef Mandif by KYLE GREGORIO photographs by VIN+
VIN+ recently hosted a special one-night-only dinner with Chef Mandif Warokka commanding the kitchen.
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s part of VIN+ commitment to always give their customers the best experience and service available in the wine industry, VIN+ refreshingly brought another gastronomic experience to their guests by presenting a delightful dinner with Chef Mandif Warokka at VIN+ Arcadia. The award-winning chef Mandif Warokka created a number of delectable dishes for dinner at the restaurant where he showcased the fine modern Indonesian cuisine he has in his signature restaurant BLANCO Par Mandif in Ubud. The exotic Indonesian flavors were paired with their finest selections of wines from PT. Jaddi International. An award winning talented chef and restaurateur, born in Biak, Papua, Indonesia, chef Mandif is highly passionate about gastronomy. Some of his personal achievements were being voted as “The Best Chef in Bali 2011” and “Best restaurateur 2014” followed by several prestigious medals and trophies in international culinary competitions. As one of the top chefs in Indonesia, he is regularly invited as a guest chef for several restaurants worldwide and in Indonesian TV shows; Chef Judge at The Grand Final of Indonesia Master Chef Season 1, Chef Judge at Grand Final Hells Kitchen Indonesia Season 1 and Chef Judge Grand Finale Top Chef Indonesia Season 1.
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He opened his first restaurant, TEATRO in 2012. And in June this year, BLANCO par Mandif opened its doors, setting up a new challenge of introducing fine modern Indonesian cuisine to the international market. Guests are welcome to experience the culinary journey of Indonesian cuisine at BLANCO par Mandif, located at the historical Don Antonio Blanco Museum in Ubud. The wine dinner featured Teza Sumendra. He is a young Indonesian Soul & RnB singer, blessed with a unique and distinctive way of singing. These traits have allow him to collaborate with Indonesian musicians on several albums: Kembali Satu with Indra Lesmana, A Journey Called A with Amanda, and Electric Lov3 with Andezzz. Teza. A pioneer in the city’s wine scene, VIN+, opened their first branch in 2004 and provide an array of more than 1,000 different international wine labels. Wine enthusiasts, young and mature, beginners to aficionados, flock to this iconic establishment. Wine lovers naturally want to enjoy their wines and to be able to understand the beauty of wine. VIN+ Wine & Beyond is the perfect answer to fulfill those needs since they frequently cater to corporate and private requests for wine classes or wine pairing dinners, which can be done conveniently at any one of their outlets.
F O O DI E L I S T S
VIN+ ARCADIA | Jalan New Delhi Pintu I Senayan Gelora, Jakarta | T: +62 21 5790 1477 | Twitter: @vinplusid
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A D V E R TO R I A L
Norwegian Salmon, Freshly Flown from the Cold Waters
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A D V E R TO R I A L
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orway is famous for its nature that is dominated by mountains, a great variety of natural features caused by prehistoric glaciers and a varied topography. The deep grooves that cut into the land flooded by the sea – Fjords – are the most striking part of this country. With its natural location, Norway has excellent seafood. One of its most known fish that is exported around the world is salmon, which is by many considered to have the best quality among other countries, especially due to Norway’s aquaculture knowledge. Norwegian aquaculture operates in a natural environment and imposes obligations on all interested parties. The authorities, research community and industries all work together to enable Norwegian aquaculture to operate with a sustainable framework. In Norway, fish farmers must obtain a license from the authorities. Norwegian fish farmers have an ethical and legal responsibility for the welfare of their salmon; the operations are strictly regulated for environmental, fish health and food safety reasons. With concerns to the
health of their fish, they want to ensure that their fish are always happy by having a ratio of 97.5 percent water and 2.5 percent fish in every cage, avoiding overcrowding in the cage so the salmon can move freely. According to Norwegian farmers, when salmon are happy, they will taste firm and juicy. Another factor that is equally important in ensuring their happiness is ensuring their safety and security. In securing those two factors, the Norwegian Food Safety Authority is responsible for inspecting food safety, recommending measures to be taken and drawing up regulations; while the Scientific Committee for Food Safety is responsible for conducting risk assessments. These stringent safeguards are also the reason why Norwegian salmon is guaranteed safe to be enjoyed raw. Furthermore, Norwegian salmon is also known for its benefits, such as protein, omega3, vitamin A, iodine, vitamin B12, selenium and vitamin D. With this complete package of taste and benefits, there is global demand for Norwegian salmon. In July 2015, exports of Norwegian salmon
reached around US$460 million or an increase of nine percent compared to the previous year. The renowned Norwegian salmon has traveled to many countries around the world, including Asia. It has become a very popular product among chefs, the culinary industry and food lovers. An interesting fact many may not know is that the popular salmon sushi that we know today began when Norwegian Salmon conquered Japan, leading global salmon production and the sushi market. In the mid-80s, Norwegian salmon exporters were looking for new markets, one of which was Japan. Norwegian salmon penetration in Japan was immediately a success since Norwegian Salmon has the right taste to be consumed raw for sushi and sashimi, unlike the local wild salmon. Since then, salmon has become one of the most favored toppings for sushi and sashimi. Today, with sushi and sashimi becoming the world’s fastest growing food trend, salmon’s popularity is growing with it; Salmon has become part of a healthy culinary lifestyle all over the world.
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F O O DI E L I S T S
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New Cocktail Selection at Mesh, The Opposite House by KYLE GREGORIO
Introducing a New Cocktail Selection at Mesh, the awardwinning bar at The Opposite House. The recently revamped bar sits 100 guests indoor and al fresco, surrounded by luscious bamboo greenery.
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he Opposite House is pleased to present its new cocktail selection and daily deals at Mesh, the hotel’s award-winning bar. Cocktail enthusiasts can delight in selections including Jade Princess (G’vine Floraison Gin, mint and green apple), Agave Kiss (capsicum-infused high-degree tequila, red and yellow capsicum) and Ginger Candy (plantation original dark rum, orange marmalade, honey and ginger). In addition to the new cocktail selection, Mesh has exclusive daily specials on weekdays to pamper its guests. Light-bite offerings include Aussie Beef Sliders, Homemade Dips, a selection of Tapas and other delectable treats.
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“Come on in to Mesh, sit back and relax as we prepare your drinks. Enjoy our daily specials or take advantage of the Monday to Friday 2 for 1 happy hour deal. The Mesh team is passionate about their cocktails, so feel free to ask them for recommendations,” says Peter Wynne, Area General Manager of Swire Hotels Beijing and General Manager of The Opposite House. Those looking for a refreshing drink or a smooth yet crisp concoction may opt for Opposite Side and Jing Yaa Tang, which are named after the hotel and its signature Chinese restaurant, respectively. The Opposite House is located in Taikoo Li Sanlitun — a vibrant new openplan shopping, dining and entertainment
destination developed by Swire Properties. The hotel’s 99 guest studios include 9 spacious suites and a penthouse duplex with a 240sqm roof terrace. More than half of all the studios are over 70sqm and all are strikingly simple with natural wooden floors and subtle touches of Chinese décor. Swire Hotels has been created to manage soulfully individual hotels in Hong Kong, Mainland China, the United Kingdom and the USA, providing a characterful experience for well travelled individually minded travellers who seek originality, style and personalized service. They create distinctive hotels with a sense of place that break with convention.
THE OPPOSITE HOUSE | Building 1, Taikoo Li Sanlitun North No. 11 Sanlitun Road Chaoyang District Beijing, China T: +86 10 6417 6688 | www.theoppositehouse.com
MELBOURNE’S COFFEE TRAILS TRAILS
Melbourne takes its coffee very seriously. Beans are valued and sacred, baristas are treated as superstars. You are invited to have a peek at the Australia’s coffee capital.
MELBOURNE COFFEE TRAILS
MELBOURNE, THE COFFEE CAPITAL
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hat does it take to be lovingly called a “coffee capital”? Certainly it takes more than having the majority of your population to be avid coffee drinkers. For starters, you must have a great selection, from excellent grade beans to cafés, accompanied by the originality and creativity to create a smoldering cup of coffee, and one feels you can find that scene—or culture—in the vibrant city of Melbourne. Known as the second largest city in Australia, Melbourne undoubtedly places first in terms of coffee culture. According to a research conducted by Roy Morgan, Melbourne has the highest coffee shop visitation (about 63%) compared to Sydney, and due to its ever-growing hip vibe and population, there are certainly no shortage of favorite spots to enjoy your long blacks or flat whites. “Coffee is part of our DNA in Melbourne. There is no such thing as bad coffee in Melbourne, it is an integral part of our life. We wake up in the morning and the first thing we think of as Melbournians is ‘where am I gonna get my coffee’.
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“Everyone has their own little place that they go to,” says George Calombaris, one of Australia’s most famous chefs, and judge on MasterChef Australia. Google for the top coffee-city in the world, and Melbourne would definitely be a part of the list. But the Melbournians owe this honorary label to the ‘gifts’ given long ago from the influx of Greek and Italian settlers—more so from the latter who further cemented the popularity of espresso coffee when they immigrated to the city between World Wars I and II. Then, unencumbered by European traditions, Melbournians eventually created their own adaptation of this culture, innovating the way the espresso is extracted and presented as well as the many variations of the roasting and brewing process of the beans. But in the end, perhaps Melbourne’s stellar coffee culture is mostly boosted by the presence of world-class baristas who make the eclectically-designed coffee shops (most often borrowing—or complementing— the characteristic elements from the surrounding neighborhood) across the city their second home, attracting even more
customers with their artful specialty coffee brewing skills. One such person is Matt Perger, Head Barista of the popular St. Ali, who was the winner of the 2014 World Coffee & Good Spirits Championship and the 2012 World Brewer’s Cup. And let’s not forget the man whom many coffee aficionados in Melbourne considered to be the “coffee pioneer”, Mark Dundon—his finger prints are all over the best coffee shops in the city, which includes St. Ali, Ray, and Seven Seeds. But there are many other great spots in Melbourne to get your caffeine fix, such as Proud Mary, Market Lane Coffee, Auction Rooms, Axil, and Cup of Truth. And all of these creative minds come together to create a coffee that is inexplicably distinctive. Melbournians go for 100% Arabica, with filter-style brews and single origin espresso becoming the mainstay on almost every café’s menu, amongst the reigning favorite, flat whites, cappuccino, and, the recent fad, piccolo lattes. However you like to take it, most people seem to agree that Melbourne offers one of the best cup of coffee in the world.
MELBOURNE COFFEE TRAILS
COFFEE METHODS 1
CHEMEX
Invented in 1941 by German inventor Peter Schlumbohm, the Chemex remains a staple in every coffee enthusiast’s arsenal. Coffee from a Chemex is very similar to drip coffee, except that there’s more room for error. For best results, ground your coffee a bit coarser than in a ceramic dripper.
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FRENCH PRESS
French press coffee is dense and heavy. Though it’s sometimes criticized for being chalky, we think that a well-prepared French press is actually quite pure. Of all methods, French press is perhaps the most vulnerable to over-extraction.
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ESPRESSO MACHINE
Espresso is a single shot of coffee from an espresso machine. Making “good” espresso is an art form. Every machine is different. It is a matter of learning your machine and how to work with it.
SIPHON
The Siphon is complicated. The bottom container holds the water and the brewed coffee eventually returns to it. The top container has a siphon tube attached to it, where the coffee brewing takes place with a rubber gasket that creates a partial vacuum in the lower vessel while brewing takes place, and a filter.
MOKA POT
Moka Pot stovetop brewers produce a dense concentrated cup that’s something between espresso and Turkish coffee. Coffee is placed into a filter between the lower chamber (that you fill with water) and the upper chamber that will contain the finished beverage after brewing.
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There are many methods for brewing a fine cup of Joe-- no single technique is right for everyone.
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AEROPRESS
The Aeropress is a revolutionary coffee maker that, if used correctly, will produce smooth effortless top quality filter coffee. Simply use this innovative device with your favorite coffee and you’ll never be without that extra special cup. Whether you just want a fast, effective way to make a ‘real’ cup of coffee or fancy tinkering with the subtleties of coffee brewing the AeroPress Coffee Maker can deliver.
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COLD DRIP
Cold drip refers to the process of steeping coffee grounds in room temperature or cold water for an extended period. Cold brew uses cold filtered water, medium-coarse ground coffee and a much longer steep time to prepare. It’s actually incredibly simple. The beauty of cold brew is you really don’t need anything fancy, just time.
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MELBOURNE COFFEE TRAILS
MUST-VISIT CAFES Pellegini’s
66 Bourke Street | 03 9662 1885 Mon-Sat 8am-11:30pm, Sun 12pm-8pm Pellegrini’s is a Melbourne institution, it was the city’s first espresso bar and has remained unchanged for decades. From its red vinyl stools and checkerboard floor, to the white shirts the waiters wear. It is said that the first espresso machine to arrive in Melbourne was delivered here in 1954. The iconic espresso bar serves authentic Italian food and of course fantastic coffee.
Axil Coffee Roasters
322 Burwood Road | 03 9819 0091 Daily 7am-4pm Axilcoffee.com.au
Brother Baba Budan
359 Little Bourke Street | 03 9606 0449 Mon-Sat 7am-5pm, Sun 9am-5pm Sevenseeds.com.au BBB (as it is called by many locals), has been part of the ever growing Melbourne coffee scene for a long time, gaining a strong following in the process. High-grade espresso and filter coffees, together with yummy baked goods and a small and groovy space make for a perfect formula for success. They also have the usual single origins and seasonal blends.
The League of Honest Coffee
Krimper Café
Right in the middle of the CBD, the working crowd come through in a steady stream, wanting a caffeine recharge. The coffee is complemented by baked goods and in-house prepared sandwiches after 11am. Single origins and filtered coffees are good, sweet milk combines well with a balanced fullbodied roast to make perfect flat whites and cappuccinos. You may wish you had time for a second cup.
Hard to find, but worth the search. Housed in a huge brick warehouse with exposed support beams, Krimper Café is a gem. Their fine espresso comes courtesy of Proud Mary’s Exploding Heart blend, with have a variety of single origins from the world over. Named after famous Melbourne furniture designer Schulim Krimper, owner Mun Soon, has definitely put a lot of love into this place.
8 Exploration Lane | 03 9654 0169 Mon-Fri 7am-5pm, Sat 9am-2pm Padrecoffee.com.au
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20-24 Guilford Lane | 03 9043 8844 Mon-Thurs 7am-5pm, Fri 7am-9pm, Sat-Sun 8am-4pm Krimper.com.au
Not sure of what you want? The amazing staff here will be more than happy to run you through the gamut of coffee options available here. The warehouse-sized space needs two espresso machines to serve the daily barrage of patrons. Order their Panama Geisha or their 20-hour cold brew or their seasonal espresso blends, you will never make a mistake. They are also known for their all-day brunch menu and coffee paraphernalia. This is the full café package.
MELBOURNE COFFEE TRAILS
Renowned for being the capital of Australia’s coffee culture, Melbourne continues to give birth to cafes that can serve up to 2,500 caffe lattes per day. The city offers some of the world’s best single origins served by world-class baristas.
Top Paddock
Industry Beans
Some have called Top Paddock the best café in Melbourne. The coffee bar is a buzz with activity, with the usual coffee-making sounds, but three times as loud. The 5 Senses coffee is excellently prepared, whether the house blend, single origins, filter or cold filter options. The brunch menu is also on point, with the well heeled patrons queuing outside for a coveted table. Weekend can get a bit crazy. You have been forewarned, you will have to wait. But boy, is it worth it.
Widely referred to as Melbourne’s best boutique coffee roasters, Industry Beans can be found in Fitzroy, at a pre-fab warehouse designed using both harsh and refined building materials. This roasterycafé produces top shelf coffee as well as a tempting menu using the best ingredients. You must check out their bright and wellbalanced Nicaraguan single origin espresso, which is indeed something to head over to Fitzroy for.
658 Church Street | 03 9429 4332 Mon-Fri 7am-4pm, Sat-Sun 8am-4pm Toppaddockcafe.com
Mon-Fri 7am-4pm, Sat-Sun 8am-4pm Industrybeans.com
Sensory Lab
297 Little Collins Street | 03 9645 0065 Mon-Wed 7:30am-7pm, Thurs-Fri 7:30am-9pm, Sat 8:30am-7pm, Sun 9:30am-7pm Sensorylab.com.au
Market Lane Coffee
109-111 Therry Street | 03 9804 7434 Mon-Thurs 7am-3pm, Fri-Sat 7am-4pm, Sun 8am-5pm Marketlane.com.au
Now these people know their coffee very well. Coffee is taken very seriously at Sensory Lab. They have their own extensive line of house blends and single origin stars, which are served here and at some of Melbourne’s best cafes. Their lattes use their Sensory Seamless blend and is bright and punchy with a lime note coming through rich chocolate flavors. Order your coffee however you want and these people will excel.
Located right across the Queen Vic Market, the focus at this sparse shop is obviously the brew. Beans roasted from their Prahran headquarters are displayed together with coffee-making accessories. They bake their own sweet pastries with some always on display at the counter but the love for the beans is paramount. Their single origin espresso tastes of orange and chocolate plus a hint of salt. However you like your coffee, they will never disappoint.
St Ali
12-18 Yarra Place | 03 9686 2990 Daily 7am-6pm Stali.com.au St Ali has reached Melbourne’s coffee cult status with good reason. Sensory Lab beans are ground fresh with expert and awardwinning baristas preparing your preferred poison. Enjoy a fruity single origin cold drip or their signature Sensory Lab blend which makes for an exemplary flat white with its deep and tangy notes. The objective here is specialty coffee. The food is an elegant mix of Asian and European flavors, but of course, the star still remains to be the coffee.
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MELBOURNE COFFEE TRAILS
WHAT THEY SAY Melbourne is a haven for coffee lovers from all over. Learn why from the experts.
George Calombaris Celebrity Chef
“Everyone has their little place that they go to. Melbourne has the best milk-based coffee in the world. I’ve had some incredible espressos in Italy, but Melbourne does coffee with milk very well. At my place, Mastic, we do everything from almond milk and other interesting milks, since everyone’s dietary requirements differ. Proud Mary is extremely amazing. Count Espresso is dark and excellent for a stand up coffee bar. There are so many extraordinary and amazing and delicious coffee in Melbourne.”
Matt Perger
What Melbournians Order Cold drip:
Director of Coffee, St Ali
Coffee made by allowing cold water to drip slowly through ground coffee – usually for several hours. It often has quite sweet, liquor-like flavors.
Matt has traveled the world to spread his knowledge, expertise and passion for coffee, and of course showcase his home town of Melbourne. “I have a very scientific and analytical mind. So at St Ali, I am always trying to make coffee a little bit better. The hunt for better coffee is my fulltime job. Melbourne has some of the best coffee in the world. We want to be able to people understand that Melbourne is doing something different that makes our city’s coffee scene very special.”
Espresso:
Coffee made using an espresso machine; also, a short black.
Flat white:
A single shot of espresso coffee topped up with steamed milk, with less foam than a caffe latte, usually served in a cup, not a glass.
Long black: Aston Utan
Owner, Common Grounds, Jakarta “The Melbourne coffee scene is amazing, it is so diverse but advanced at the same time,” Aston declares. His love of coffee has been greatly influenced by Melbourne, which he calls the specialty coffee center of the world. Since opening his successful Common Grounds café in central Jakarta, Aston says that “the baristas at St Ali have pretty much revolutionized the way we serve our coffees.” For his recommendations: “Of course St Ali, any coffee, but their Barista Breakfast if you want them all. My Mexican Cousin for food. Auction Rooms, any filter coffee but if they have the Cerro Azul you have to try that. Slater St Bench for take away coffees. Top Paddock and Kettle Black.”
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A double shot of espresso coffee poured into a measure of hot water in a cup.
Magic:
A double ristretto shot of espresso coffee topped up with steamed milk and served in a smaller (160ml) cup. Based on the New Zealand flat white, but named the ‘magic’ in Melbourne.
Piccolo latte:
A single shot of espresso topped up with steamed milk and served in a small glass; a very short caffe latte.
Ristretto:
A very short or ‘restricted’ pour of espresso coffee. Usually more intense than a full espresso shot, as different flavor compounds are extracted at different stages of an espresso extraction.
MELBOURNE COFFEE TRAILS
MELBOURNE COFFEE WALKING TOUR
W
hat better way to spend a cloudy Saturday morning than taking a coffee walking tour. On a recent trip to Melbourne, a 2-hour tour was organized for us with Maria Paoli, a 17 year veteran of the hospitality and tourism industry. She has spent this time managing cafes, working with coffee roasters and establishing Nationally Accredited Training Tools. Maria is an accredited Trainer and Coffee Judge, and specializes in coffee, events and tourism. She was actively involved with the Australian Specialty Coffee Association (AASCA) and in 2005 organized and hosted the Victorian Barista Championships and continues to be a strong advocate and ambassador for the Specialty Coffee Association. Maria told us that the Melbourne Historical Coffee Trek started in 2004 to showcase the city’s internationally recognized café culture. She has been active in training, supporting and encouraging young baristas and consulting café owners. She told us: “In my determination to improve Melbourne’s café standards, I embarked on a mission to become an active reviewer, where I contributed to industry magazines, newspapers and coffee guides.” We asked Maria how she fell in love with coffee. “I was born with a coffee palate,” Maria said. “From an early age I would go to the market with my grandad who would buy freshly roasted coffee and I could always smell the aromas through the house when it was brewed in the caffetiera (stove top espresso maker). Coffee is a
The eyes are the windows to the soul. When we met Maria Paoli, we could definitely see in her eyes, the passion and enthusiasm she had for coffee and for Melbourne. link to my heritage, tradition and history.” Growing up in this coffee household would certainly pre-dispose her to coffee. Maria continued and said that there was never a time in her life where she didn’t like coffee. “I think I tried to live without coffee when I was a uni student, what a huge mistake that was!” But liking and loving coffee is one thing, working with coffee and championing is another. So we asked Maria what really lead her to focus her life and work on coffee. “There are many events that lead me to love specialty coffee and respect the crop to bean to cup included my love for the people of the land.” “I have been fortunate to travel to the origin where coffee is grown: I have been to Kenya, Vanuatu, Queensland and parts of the Caribbean. I have met the farmers from Brazil, Colombia, Vietnam and understand the hardship, the work and sacrifice that goes into every cup. This made me respect coffee,” Maria shared. Maria said that as a trainer, she has set up some of the first training tools for Melbourne and worked with the long term unemployed, kids with disabilities and students from broken backgrounds. “Every time I would work with them on a coffee machine, empower them with knowledge and build their practical skills, they have felt valued. My love for coffee grew yet again as it put a smile on someone else’s face,” she reveals. Her third revelation was when she realized how much chemistry and science was associated in coffee roasting, coffee harvesting and coffee brewing. “I was a child
who loved science, experiments, looking under a microscope and chemistry, and I fell into a world of CO1, CO2, osmosis, hybrids and pyrolysis.” As we made our way through the streets and laneways of Melbourne, we cannot help but be immensely impressed by Maria’s passion for her one true love. During a lull in the tour, we quickly ask her to reveal her top five coffee shops in the coffee capital. She whispered that we had visited two of her favorites that day, League of Honest Coffee on Exploration Lane and Krimper on Guilford Lane. Unfortunately, her number one is only open on weekdays. So after two cups and two kilometers of walking, we ended our tour. We were thoroughly pumped, not only by the caffeine but by the spirit and passion of this lovely lady called Maria.
MARIA’S TOP PICKS
AXIL COFFEE 322 Burwood Road, Hawthorn INDUSTRY BEAN 62 Rose Street, Fitzroy KRIMPER 20 Guilford Lane, Melbourne LEAGUE OF HONEST COFFEE Exploration Lane, Melbourne TOP PADDOCK 658 Church Street, Richmond
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
George Calombaris, Melbourne’s Culinary Ambassador by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON, GIA AND MADE ESTABLISHMENT
Melbourne chef, restaurateur and MasterChef Australia judge George Calombaris was recently a Jakarta visitor to do some events with F&B giant Ismaya Group and openly professed his love for his home city.
I
have to admit that I am a huge fan of TV cooking reality shows and have just recently finished watching the most recent season of MasterChef Australia. Thus I got a bit excited when I was told that George Calombaris was coming to town. I felt like I had just been with him, for weeks as I kept track of the reality show’s progress the past weeks. I have met George a few times already, both here and in Melbourne and was thrilled to be able to schedule a chat with him. My first question was an obvious one, as I asked him to describe the Melbourne dining scene. “I am a very proud Victorian and a very proud Melbournian,” exclaimed George, having been born and raised there. “We are very lucky that Australia and Melbourne is made up of this multicultural melting pot, composed of so many people from so many cultures, races, religions, and colors. But what we do well is that we integrate that multiculturalism into what we eat.” George tells me that there is a common theme in Melbourne food, and that they like to eat light. Their food is not heavy. There is another theme: “Regardless if its Greek, Italian, Vietnamese, Japanese or Thai, its very produce driven and from local sources. We are also very passionate about sustainability.” George describes the Melbourne dining scene as incredible and world-class. “I’m very lucky to be able to travel a lot and eat at so many good restaurants around the world. But there is something about
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flying back into Melbourne. We do a pretty good job there.” There is a reason why the top chefs of the world want to open in Australia. Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck has just recently ended a stint in Melbourne and Rene Redzepi’s noma has just announced they are opening for 10 weeks starting January 2016 in Sydney. “We got something good going on. We have vast land, great agriculture and great ingredients. Just look at Victoria as a huge food bowl. You can head 45 minutes out of Melbourne into the Yarra Valley and you will see world class wine. Then off to the Mornington Peninsula in November or December and you will see berries in abundance. You can literally walk into a berry farm and pick your own berries.” They are noticeably spoiled. But it shows in the food that they serve in their restaurants. George being of Greek background, his parents immigrated to Australia, has assembled a food and beverage group showcasing many different layers, values and styles of all things Greek, under the MAdE Establishment name. At the bottom is Jimmy Grants which is very casual, loud and busting. “It’s a food night club, you come in, its cramped, you stand at a corner, you have a suvi and a beer, its fun, then out you go,” George explains. Then there is the Hellenic Republic brand, of which they have two, at Kew and Brunswick. “Here it is very tavernesque momma cooking,” George describes. In the pipeline now is Hellenic Hotel, which George tells us is set to open in
the beginning of 2016. He takes from his Australian hospitality culture and is opening his first hotel in the west side of Melbourne at Williamstown which is by the sea. Food here will be mostly seafood, because of its location and is set to be an exciting addition to the brands. Then another step up is Gazi, which is Greek street casual restaurant. It is also loud with the hustle and bustle, noise and fun, serving winner souvlakis and tasty espressotinis. Then on top, of course is George’s the flagship restaurant, The Press Club. “My baby. For me it’s the jewel in the crown. Its aspirational. When people say fine dining is dead, I totally disagree. I believe that there is always a place for it.” After making room for Gazi, The Press Club has received a make-over, making it smaller and more contained, with only 10 tables, seating 34 guests. “Its about evolution and growth. When I opened The Press Club 9 1/2 years ago, there was just this little idea of doing something great, then obviously it had to move forward. I am a constant believer that you have to continue to dream. I am still dreaming and I dream big. Nothing is stopping me. The only person that can stop me is me. Pushing the boundaries and that envelope is a daily challenge. We need The Press Club to be there because it keeps us me on my toes. There’s not a day that I am not thinking about food for The Press Club, or ideas for it, or what we can do for it. This is the restaurant that I have always dreamt of. 10
GEORGE CALOMBARIS | www.georgecalombaris.com.au | Instagram: @gcalombaris
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C O V E R F E AT U R E tables, 34 seats. There’s nothing like it. Next door is Press Club Projects, their development kitchen, which is an incredible state of the art kitchen. It is the first of its kind in Melbourne. “Press Club Projects has all the bells and whistles. It allows us to dream big without anyone bothering us. So we can totally focus on creativity” So when you look at it, all the outlets in Melbourne are all really pieced in together to be able to cater to a variety of guests and expectations. During our conversation, George lets out a little secret. “In the middle to the latter part of 2016, they are set to open in Sydney. We will be doing something totally unique from what we have in Melbourne.” Exciting news for the Sydneysiders. Something to watch out for! Being the fish issue, we ask George about his thoughts on fish. “I think fish and seafood in general, I am a big lover of, obviously because of my Greek heritage and because I live in Australia. We have an abundance of incredible, yummy and sustainable fish. I think about Australian Snapper, marron, scallops, Tasmanian Salmon, oysters and clams.” George reminds us that the most important thing is that we should let the flavors of the fish and seafood resonate. We should let the produce speak for itself because the worst thing you can do is over power the subtleties of fish. George notices that people are afraid to cook fish at home. “People are afraid to cook fish at home because they are afraid to over cook it or under cook it. My tips: make sure the fish is fresh and it doesn’t have a fishy smell. If it has a fishy smell, it may be off. Also make sure that you take your fish out of the fridge and bring it down to room temperature before you cook it.” As we end, George shares his thoughts on pushing culinary boundaries. “Never allow a technique to override substance, soul and flavor. I might have done that in my earlier years as a chef. But now, my goal is how do I get the best out of the ingredients I am using. How can I make it really delicious and yummy. That’s why we have the Press Club Projects kitchen, so that we can create dishes that creatively highlight the best of the wonderful produce that we have.” My fan excitement aside, I have to declare that was a very informative and passionate conversation with George. It made me look forward to visiting Melbourne to sample more of his food and experience the variety his restaurants have to offer. Luckily the Ismaya Group had him over at their GIA restaurant so that I could sample a bit of what George and his team had to offer. Now when should I plan my next trip to Melbourne….
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“
We got
something good going on. We
have vast land,
great agriculture and great
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ingredients.
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Discovering South America by JED DOBLE photographs by AKI
The laid back atmosphere of Ubud is now further enhanced by a number of interesting new restaurants opening up. Enter PICA South American Kitchen, which serves up some of the best ceviche I have ever tasted.
F
or the longest time, when I would come to Ubud, I sort of felt that there was something lacking. Probably its because I come often, but I realized that there were less dining options than other parts of the island. That has all changed in the last 18 months or so. Last year, restaurateurs Cristian Encina and Monica Fernandez opened PICA, Ubud’s only South American restaurant. “Monica was the one who came up with the idea to open a restaurant,” says the Santiago, Chile born Cristian. “We asked ourselves what we wanted to serve, we needed a concept, something unique. Then it was also Monica who came up with the idea to serve South American food.” Chef Cristian began his culinary training in Santiago and completed it in Spain. Cris worked in fine dining establishments in Chile, New Zealand and Australia before moving to Bali in 2011. “I was surrounded by food and cooking since I was a kid. My dad had a restaurant, he was not a chef but loved to cook. My mom and grandma are also good cooks. But I can’t say I wanted to be a chef since I was a kid,” Cris confesses. The realization happened during his second year at university studying economics. “I realized that this was not what I wanted to do with my life. So I went on a break and traveled. During my travels, I met a group of chefs who were also traveling. We were hanging out and just having a great time. Camping and having really nice meals. I liked this idea.” So the young Cristian combined two of his loves, food and travel. He though, what better way to travel the world than to be a chef, since you can cook anywhere. Cris is equally passionate about exposing
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people to the diversity and quality of South American food. “I get very inspired seeing the response of people to these flavors I have grown up with,” said Cris “South American food is different from country to country of course, but when you look beyond its differences, and look at the similarities, it is fresh, simple and has complex flavors, and all the time intriguing. It’s very exciting for me to explore and re-interpret the rich diversity of South American cuisine.” Cris tells me that most of the recipes on the menu are Peruvian. “I really love Peruvian food. I have been many, many times to both the Northern and Southern parts of Peru. In Chile, we always go out to eat Peruvian food.” And once we start to talk about Peru, we of course gravitate to ceviche. It has been one of South America’s best kept secrets for centuries, but ceviche is now starting to become popular worldwide. Ceviche is a seafood dish popular in the coastal regions of Latin America. The dish is typically made from fresh raw fish cured in citrus juices, such as lemon or lime, and spiced with chili peppers. Every Latin American country has given ceviche its own touch of individuality by adding its own particular garnishes. But its birthplace is disputed between Peru and Ecuador, and as both countries have an amazing variety of fish and shellfish, it could easily have come from the ancient Inca civilizations of both countries. Cris proclaims: “Ceviche is a Peruvian dish. All around South America, we do it, but the Peruvians are the masters.” According to Cris, any fish can be made
into ceviche, but he prefers white fish and fish that are firm. “Fish that is too soft breaks down easily with the acid. But you can still use it. There is no such thing as bad fish for ceviche. The key factor is the freshness. We only use the freshest fish.” Luckily, Cris shares with us his ceviche recipe for our readers to try to do at home. PICA is the first restaurant project for co-owners Cris and Monica. And they are involved in every detail of its daily operations. “It’s a very personal project for us and we’re committed to ensuring consistency of quality across all aspects of the guest experience.” said Monica “We love the Ubud way of life; it’s small, relaxed, and personal. We hope we’ve succeeded in capturing that here.” Like PICA’s food menu, the drink list is limited but thoughtful. There is a focus on new world wines from South America, but also from Australia and New Zealand. PICA’s design is simple and clean. Details suggest a space that is South American without the kitsch or cliches. But while PICA’s flavors are distinctly South American, the space is designed with a Balinese sensibility. “We wanted to share and preserve what we love most about Bali - its warm and natural aesthetics, timeless simplicity, and relaxed tropical feel,” Monica explains. “The whole experience is designed to encourage you to relax and stay a while, because that’s the best thing about Ubud, not having to be anywhere else.” And thus, great South American food and interesting drinks, there is no reason to go elsewhere. Give PICA a try next time you are in Ubud and linger. Its allowed.
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
CLASSIC PERUVIAN CEVICHE Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS: Leche de Tigre 300 ml 100 ml 50 grams 1/4 pc 1 tsp 1/2 pc 1 pc
Fish Stock Fresh Lime Juice White Fish Garlic Clove, smashed Fresh Coriander Leaves, chopped Chili, seeded Celery Stalk Salt for seasoning
Ceviche 320 grams 3 tbsp 1 cup 3 tsp 1 pc 4 tbsp 1 pc
White Fish Fresh Coriander Leaves, chopped Red Onion, sliced Fresh Lime Juice Small Sweet Potato, boiled and quartered Sweet Corn Kernels, boiled Chili, seeded, halved lengthwise Salt for seasoning
STEPS
Leche de Tigre • Put all ingredients together in a blender and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Season with salt. Cover and chill. Ceviche • Rub a large bowl with cut sides of chili; discard. • Place whitefish, 2/3 of onion, leche de tigre, lime, and 4 large ice cubes in bowl; stir well. • Let marinate for 2 minutes; remove ice. Season with salt. • Using a slotted spoon, divide ceviche into small bowls or onto plates. • Drizzle ceviche with leche de tigre from bowl; garnish with remaining onion, coriander, corn and sweet potato.
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PICA SOUTH AMERICAN KITCHEN | Jalan Dewi Sita, Ubud, Bali | T: +62 361 971660 Instagram: @picaubud
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Globally Korean by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON
Jakarta foodies had their dose of K-Pop with the recent visit of Korean celebrity chef Edward Kwon.
K
orean celebrity chef Edward Kwon was in Jakarta recently for two sold-out dinners at Shangri-La Hotel, Jakarta. The first night was for an exclusive dinner experience at ROSSO followed by a larger gala dinner the following evening at the hotel’s ballroom. On the menu were Chef Edward’s signature modern Korean dishes. During our short chat before the dinners, he stresses that the dishes he prepares are true to traditional Korean cooking methods, using original ingredients, seasonings and bases. But Chef Edward also emphasizes that the plating for his dishes look far from Korean. This is both a creative and practical decision on his part. When he is outside of Korea, such as this hotel gala dinner, diners expect dishes to look creative and modern. It is a practical decision because these events tend to be banquet events and he is constrained to use hotel table ware. But even if the dishes look very modern, he insists that if a Korean person would eat the dishes, they will definitely recognize the dish as Korean. “I normally put a twist into the Korean dishes I serve overseas. But I don’t twist it too much that a Korean eating the dish will not recognize it,” admits the talented chef. Chef Edward has spent many years working in kitchens all over the world. He started his career working at The RitzCarlton, Seoul in 2001. He then moved to The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay in San
Francisco. He then moved back to Seoul to become executive sous chef at the W Seoul. Then stints in China and Dubai followed, at the latter, he was head chef at the iconic Burj al-Arab Hotel. Since heading back to Seoul, Chef Edward has expanded his reach: hosting a his own TV show, writing books and now CEO of his own food and dining company. His flagship restaurant in Seoul, Lab XXIV, is known for its excellently prepared food with Chef Edward’s signature whimsical flair. In May, Chef Edward opened his first Korean restaurant outside of the country in Moscow, Elements by Edward Kwon. The restaurant has been brining in the patrons, attracted by the space’s lavish Korean inspired art deco design and the modernlooking but authentic flavored dishes they serve. I had taken a peek at photos on the internet and the venue looks amazing, and the plates enticing. Since I have not had the opportunity to visit Korea, I inquisitively ask about the food. And in reply, Chef Edward gives me both a geography and history lesson. He begins by saying that Korea is located in between China and Japan. Strangely enough, these three countries have totally different cultures and food although geographically very close to each other. Unlike the similar cultures and cuisines which Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore have, or that of Thailand, Cambodia, Laos in Indochina. “These three countries had
EDWARD KWON | www.ekfoodweb.cafe24.com | Instagram: @chef _ edward _ kwon
close-door policies, thus resulting in totally different cultures, and consequently food. Wars between China and Japan throughout the centuries got Korea caught in the crossfire, forcing it to have a very protectionist mentality.” Chef Edward further explains that Korean cuisine was also affected by this protectionist mentality. Since the country was always in the cross-fires between these two warring countries and historically a target of colonization from both China and Japan, the cuisine has had to evolve in a way wherein it could withstand wars and occupation. Hence dishes like Kimchi are fermented, to withstand storage and long periods of time. This protectionist mentality has also prevented exchange of techniques in cooking. Thus dishes have not evolved much throughout the centuries. Such an unexpectedly serious conversation about Korean food, culture and history. But all well received and has made me more interested in visiting Korea. Chef Edward has truly become a culinary ambassador for his country. After trying his dishes at the dinner, I am both impressed and surprised. His plates are indeed modern and you will not even think of the dishes as Korean, but once you taste them, you do recognize some of the Korean flavors from the traditional Korean restaurants I have been to. Amazing! Kudos to Chef Edward and we wish him well as he spreads the good word about his country’s wonderful cuisine.
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HAE MUL NAENG CHAE Seafood and Vegetable Salad Serves: 1
INGREDIENTS: 2pcs 2pcs 20 g 20 g 20 g 30 g
Tiger Prawns Scallops Cucumber, sliced Perilla Seed Dressing Mustard Dressing Asian Pear, sliced
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2 pcs 3 pcs 3 pcs 3 g
Micro Purple Shiso Micro Vitamin Leaf Chestnut Chips Chives, chopped
Perilla Seed Dressing 100 ml Jin Gan Jang 100 ml Rice Wine 100 ml Water 75 g Sugar 50 g Glucose 200 ml Apple Cider Vinegar
5 tsp 1 tsp
Yuju Essence Perilla Seeds
Mustard Dressing 40 g 20 g 15 g 75 g 8 g 1 tsp 1 tsp 1 tsp
Korean Mustard Soy Milk Pine nuts Sugar Garlic, chopped Lemon Juice Apple Cider Vinegar Honey
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STEPS
Mustard Seed Dressing • Place all ingredients in a blender • Blend until smooth Perilla Seed Dressing • Mix Jin Gan Jang, rice wine, water, sugar, glucose in a pot and let it boil, then cool down • Once cold, add apple cider vinegar and yuju essence • Add ground perilla seeds. Dish • Poach prawns and scallops. • Soak sliced pears in the sugared water to avoid discoloration. • Slice and cut the rest of the vegetables. • Place vegetables in a bowl and add chives, cucumber and baby greens. • Dress vegetables with Mustard Dressing • Plate the prawns and scallops, arrange the salad and dress plate with the Perilla Seed Dressing.
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Fish Tales by JED DOBLE photographs by JAAP VAN RIJN AND DENNIE RAMON
Bart van Olphen, fishing expert, renowned chef and cookbook author from The Netherlands, shares with us what we can do to improve sustainable fishing and a few other fishy tales.
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ave you ever wondered where the fish we eat comes from? We often times take for granted that fishermen all over the world head out and catch fish daily. Thai said, overfishing is a genuine concern the world faces today. A National Geographic article stated that “In 1989, about 90 metric tons of fish were taken from the ocean.” The gross and indiscriminate overfishing is a cause for alarm. There are many estimates of what that amount of fish taken from the oceans is now but the same article stated: “A study of catch data published in 2006 in the journal Science grimly predicted that if fishing rates continue apace, all the world’s fisheries will have collapsed by the year 2048.” This is a scary fact that needs to be addressed. Enter fish expert Bart van Olphen, who is not only a passionate cook but has a special interest in sustainable fishing. Bart has always had a love for food. “We when we moved to France, we were not wealthy but food was important. We always chose a good restaurant to eat at. I fell in love with food, and the romance of having and working in a restaurant,” Bart recalls. After graduating at the Hotel Management School in The Hague, Bart moved to Paris to train in some of the most prestigious restaurants. He worked at Les Ambassadeurs and Pierre au Palais Royal and was chef de partie at the three Michelin starred Lucas Carton restaurant. Through his stints in Paris, Bart gained lots of experience and skills. But Bart was looking for something else. He then decided to do a 180 degree turn in his cooking and came back to The Netherlands where he worked at a contemporary Asian restaurant. Three years later, Bart decided to quit the restaurant and hospitality industry to really focus on fish. Not the kitchen and prep side, but the procurement side. He later opened Europe’s first sustainable fishmonger and deli in Amsterdam. “We had fresh seafood and different kinds of oysters. I was the first one to bring yellow fin tuna from the Indian Ocean into
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Amsterdam. But it was all seafood with a story. I knew the fishermen, we knew the fishing communities,” he shares. At that point he got in contact with the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) which told him that 75% of the world’s oceans being exploited to the maximum or are being overfished. But the more Bart researched about fish, the more startled he was with what he learned. “Seafood is the only food that we still massively get out from the wild,” Bart explains. “If we have a shortage of strawberries or bananas, we just plant some more. We raise our cattle and chicken for beef and poultry. For seafood, it is mysterious.” And since fish and seafood are mysterious, we tend to romanticize it. Images of fishermen casting their nets and coming back to shore with their catch are what visualize when we think of fish and seafood. “But the huge amounts of fish and the way they are treated came as a shock to me. A lot of the fish that we consume isn’t from small fishery communities, but comes from ‘factories on the water’; fishery companies that don’t look much further than tomorrow,” Bart reveals. Looking towards the bright side, Bart thought that there must be another way. “I started my travels, looking for fisheries that obtain the best fish with a care for nature.” Bart has since personally travelled to countless fisheries worldwide and is committed to keeping the ocean’s survival a priority. He lives, fishes and cooks together with the world’s most amazing fishing communities to give them a communication platform to the final seafood consumers. Bart says that countless of fisheries around the world and in Holland as well, do an amazing job by not catching more fish than is healthy for the existence of the fish, with the right gear in the right season, they contribute to a sustainable future. All these fisheries have something in common: a lifestyle that is characterized by simplicity and pureness. In his travels, meeting these wonderful fishery communities has inspired him to
think further. “By consuming fish from these good fisheries we can keep eating fish and leave other species alone. Therefore this sustainably caught fish has to be made accessible and approachable for the consumer, with the most recognition of the fishermen,” he stresses. “I want to change the way people consume fish. Not by fingerpointing and dictating: eat this and not that. But by telling stories. Hence Fish Tales!” “I bring the audience to the fishing communities.” Bart has written four cookbooks. Among them, “Fish Tales” was awarded with a Gourmand Best Cookbook of the World prize in Paris, 2009. “Preparing fish isn’t hard at all and above all fun to do. That is why I combine my passion for fish and my mission for sustainability in writing cookbooks and making videos. I hope to inspire a lot of people to work with delicious, sustainable fish.” Next to writing cookbooks Bart broadcasts the successful ‘World’s Shortest Cooking Show’ on Instagram (www.instagram.com/bartsfishtales). Using the popular photo and video sharing app, Bart prepares 15 second cooking videos showcasing sustainable fish and other seafood recipes. Since last year, Bart has working with Jamie Oliver as being part of Jamie’s Food Tube Network and writing article for Jamie Magazine. He says that this has helped him gain a wider audience for the work he does. And he thanks Jamie for giving him a worldwide platform to pursue his fish sustainability cause. Bart also has his own videos at his YouTube channel. ( www. youtube.com/bartsfishtales). Currently Bart is working to make his fifth cookbook by traveling around the world with the famous photographer David Loftus and continuing to share stories of sustainable fishing communities. With Fish Tales Bart combines his two greatest passions: good food and bringing sustainably caught fish in a fun way to the people, with the fishermen in the spotlights. “It is they who make sure that our children can keep enjoying fish as well!”
C O V E R F E AT U R E
BART VAN OLPHEN | FISH TALES | www.fish-tales.com | Instagram: @bartsfishtales | YouTube: youtube.com/bartsfishtales
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
SEABASS IN WHITE WINE (EN PAPILLOTTE) Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS:
2 pcs Whole Seabass (500-1000 grams), scaled and gutted 2 pcs Lemons, one cut in slices and 1 cut in wedges 1 tbs Parsley, finely chopped 1 pc Spring Onion, thinly sliced 1 tbs Sea Salt 150 ml Olive Oil 50 ml Dry White Wine
STEPS
• Prepare a charcoal grill or heat the oven to 185 degrees Celsius. • Score the fish diagonally on both sides every 5 centimetres. Fill
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the scores with the slices of lemon, parsley, spring onion, olive oil, pepper and salt. Sprinkle salt and rub some olive oil over the rest of the fish. Turn the fish around and repeat. • Take some large pieces of tin foil and put the seabass on it. Make sure you have a minimum of 2 layers of foil and use enough to completely cover the fish. • When you are done, fold the borders around so it creates an edge. Sprinkle the white wine over and next to the fish and fold the foil around the fish, so it creates a package. • If grilling: put the fish on the grill. Cook the fish on each side for 7-12 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish. If using an oven, cook the fish on 185 degrees Celsius for 15-20 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish. You can measure the cooking level by using a thermometer especially for meat and fish and putting it in the thickest part of the fish. The core of the fish should be around 60-65 degrees Celsius. • When the fish is done, remove from the foil and serve it on a large plate. Put the lemon wedges next to it. Serve with a delicious salad and freshly baked bread.
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The Best of Both Worlds by SAHIRI LOING photographs by HIMAWAN SUTANTO salmon provided by THE NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL
Personal relationships are just as important to have as cooking technique when you aspire to be a great chef. Just ask chef Andrew Zarsosa of Fairmont Jakarta.
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e often overlook this simple ingredient: support from your significant other, as one of the most important things if you aim for higher goals. “I’ve been lucky to have gotten married at a young age — we were 19 at the time,” says Andrew Zarsosa, the executive chef of the Fairmont Jakarta. “I guess any chef will tell you that it’s a lot of hard work, so while I was trying to build my career as a chef I didn’t have to worry about keeping a girlfriend because I already had my wife. I think I survived by having a wife who understood and who was willing to put up with all of my long hours of working.” Convenient on his part? You could say that. But I guess there’s an old-school romantic sentiment to be had in his words: knowing that at the end of the day, no matter how grueling it was, you can find comfort that your beloved is waiting at home. (Now, at the age of 31, Andrew can count on three more waiting for his arrival at home: his three children.) His family gatherings must’ve been an interesting experience: he is half Spanish and half Mexican, but grew up in sunny Miami, while his wife hails from the Bahamas (the youngest of eight children, no less). And of course there is the confluence of food cultures. “Summer in Mexico is where we’d be exposed to fresh salsas and sopes,” Andrew says. “And then we would be off to Spain, by the coastline of Costa Brava in Catalonia, where we would enjoy rustic, Spanish cooking like paellas, tortillas, and croquetas.” Oddly, there was a time when he couldn’t stand the sight—and taste—of seafood. “In fact I kinda hated it because I would see it everywhere and eat it every time,” he laughs. His indifference was not exclusive to seafood, though—saffron made
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the list as well for the same ubiquitous reason. If he had to choose which dishes he favored the most, Andrew took sides with the Mexicans. “And I love this particular candy from Mexico, which I have them now in my office,” he says. “Its peanut candy, something like marzipan, but it doesn’t have that pasty texture.” For sure that wide cultural influence played a huge part in his life as a chef (and due to his father’s occupation as an hotelier he moved around a lot too, including to Australia and Bermuda) though being the man of the kitchen wasn’t his first aspiration. “I wanted to be an artist, which was why my initial plan was to enroll in art school,” says Andrew. “But then along the way I started to fall in love with cooking—I had a parttime job in a catering business when I was in high-school—and eventually I saw the art in food.” Through solid networking, and after gaining knowledge from senior chefs, books, and tasting every food scenes, Andrew got the chance to work in various hotels and restaurants that have spanned from his home of Miami, to the Bahamas (where he met his wife), Chicago, Dubai, and Malaysia. He enjoyed the three good years he had in Kota Kinabalu in Malaysia but ultimately decided to go back into the hustle and bustle of city life. And I guess it couldn’t get any hustler and bustler than our beloved Jakarta. “I’ve always wanted to try new experiences, and working in Asia is part of it,” he says. “But I came here with the same attitude I work elsewhere: with an open mind. You can choose to look at things in a negative way, but, for me, I choose to be optimistic. And, besides, I’ve got this great opportunity working at the Fairmont Jakarta.”
As his experiences grew, so did his taste levels. Now Andrew is no longer averse to eating or cooking seafood. As evidenced by his sharing with us this month of some salmon dishes. “Fairmont Hotels encourages the use of sustainable produce,” Andrew explains. Thus for these dishes, we used farmed Norwegian salmon, which are raised in the cold clear waters that provide ideal conditions for salmon to grow, giving firm texture and juicy taste. Norway is the largest producer of farmed salmon in the world, and is the inventor of modern salmon farming. Norway now produces about 1.3 million tons of salmon every year under the world’s strictest regulatory system to ensure sustainability, protection of the environment and food safety. For the best possible quality, Norwegian salmon is predominantly sold as fresh to Indonesia. State of the art manufacturing processes in Norway combined with efficient transport solutions make it possible to deliver fresh Norwegian salmon in as little as 72 hours from it is swimming in the sea until it can be enjoyed by quality conscious Indonesian consumers. Chef Andrew prepares four salmon dishes for us to enjoy and try at home. I took note that throughout his career he has been blessed with having great chefs as his mentor, to which he agreed. “That’s true,” he replies. “I’ve been fortunate to have met senior chefs who allowed me to be creative and experimental, which is the most important thing for a chef. And now I treat my staffs very much the same way by allowing them to be creative. I really want them to experience the same things I had.” And I wonder how many of them are married now...
FAIRMONT JAKARTA | Jalan Asia Afrika No. 8, Gelora Bung Karno, Senayan, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2970 333 www.fairmont.com/jakarta | Instagram: @fairmontjakarta
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BART VAN OLPHEN | FISH TALES | www.fish-tales.com | Instagram: @bartfishtales | YouTube: youtube.com/bartfishtales
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
SALMON RILLETTES Serves: 2
INGREDIENTS:
300g Fresh Salmon, cut into a medium dice 2 cups Dry White Wine 1 pc Shallot, diced 35g Japanese Mayo
10g 1 pc 1 pc 100g
STEPS
Chives Lemon, juiced Lemon Zest Smoked Salmon, sliced Salt & Pepper – To Taste
• In a medium sauce pan, pour in the wine and diced shallots. Bring to a boil and
reduce heat to simmer. • Add the salmon and cook for about 5 mins. • Strain the wine, keeping only the salmon and shallots- chill in the fridge until cold. • Combine with all the other ingredients being sure not to break the salmon flesh too much. • Top with chives and serve with grilled sourdough bread.
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SALMON “MI CUIT” Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS: Salmon 400g 800g 800g 160g 80g 10g
Fresh Salmon Water Ice Salt Sugar Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Quinoa 1L 250g
Vegetable Stock Quinoa
Heirloom Carrots 1 bunch Organic Rainbow Carrots Olive Oil Sea Salt Black Pepper Sherry Vinegar
STEPS
Salmon • In a pot dissolve the sugar, salt and water by bringing it all up to a boil then pouring it over the ice. The ice will melt and cool the mixture down so you can use the brine quicker. Once the brine is cold, pour over the Salmon loin and submerge the fish in the brine completely then place in the chiller for 45 minutes. • While the fish is brining, you can set a water bath to 40.5c degrees- if you don’t have a water bath or immersion circulator, this will be very difficult but you can put a thermometer in a pot of water and regulate the heat over a stove to create the temperature. • After 45 minutes remove the salmon from the brine and rinse under cold running water. You will need a vacuum sealer and vacuum cooking bag, which you will then proceed to place the fish in the bag with the 10g of Olive Oil and then seal it on medium high. Place the sealed salmon bag in the water and cook for approximately 60 minutes at 40.5c. This temperature will give the fish custard like texture that is almost impossible to achieve otherwise. Quinoa • In a stockpot cook the quinoa over a medium high heat and simmer for about
30-45 mins until the quinoa is cooked all the way through. When done, strain and keep in the chiller. Heirloom Carrots • Scrub the carrots well and rinse off all dirt, then toss in the oil, salt, pepper and vinegar. • Roast in the over at 200c until well browned and cooked through- about 1015mins. • Cool down to room temperature and
reserve in the cooking liquid. Assembly • Toss the Quinoa with Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Salt, and Fresh Lemon Juice. • Arrange on the plate into a neat pile and then place the Salmon next to it. • Arrange the Carrots in between the Quinoa and dress with reserved cooking liquid. • Garnish the Salmon with mustard greens. Serve room temperature.
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
SALMON SKINS WITH WHIPPED OYSTER CREAM Serves: 1
INGREDIENTS:
Salmon Skins 2 strips Salmon Skin 250 ml Water for boiling Cooking oil for frying Salt Oyster Cream 6 pcs 1 pc 100g 250g
Live Oysters, shucked and juices reserved Lemon, juiced Dill Crème Fraiche
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STEPS
Salmon Skins • When butchering the salmon, be careful to take the skin off in one single pieceyou can ask your butcher to do this for you. Then cut the skin into large workable sections. • In a medium sized stock pot, bring water to a boil and add the skin to the water. Cook the skins for 2 mins and carefully remove onto paper towels to soak the water. • With a sharp knife carefully remove the excess fat and flesh from the skin- be very careful as the skin is very fragile at this stage. • Once all excess fat is removed, transfer skins into a dehydrator tray or a baking
tray- which will be dehydrated for about 2-4 hours at 120c. • Set your fryer oil to 250c and then test one of the skins in the oil. The skin will ‘puff’ a little and then you should cook it for about 1 minute further till no air bubbles are seen. • Drain well on a paper towel and season with salt. Repeat with the rest of the skins. Oyster Cream • In a blender, puree all of the ingredients except the crème fraiche until very smooth and strain through a fine mesh strainer. • Fold the Oyster puree into the crème fraiche and serve immediately with the skins.
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PEACOCK LOUNGE SALMON CARPACCIO Serves: 2
INGREDIENTS: Salmon 200g
Vinaigrette 10g 5g 25g 50g 300g 80g 1 tsp Garnish 20g 1 pc
Fresh Salmon, sliced thin Fresh Coriander Fresh Parsley Minced Shallots White Wine Vinegar Extra Virgin Olive Oil Yuzu Juice Smoked Paprika Powder Sea Salt to taste Roasted Red Peppers cut into a fine dice Avocado, puréed
1/2 pc 10g 1 pc 1 pc
Red Onion, sliced into thin strips Pea Tendrils Red Radish, sliced into thin coins Valencia Orange, peeled and segmented
STEPS
Salmon • Slice the salmon as thin as possible and put directly onto the plate. • Cover the plates in cling film and keep in the fridge for when you are about to serve the dish. Vinaigrette • Add the solid ingredients to the oil and place into a measuring cup for easy pouring. • In a separate bowl add the vinegar and Yuzu juice, and then slowly pour in the
oil-herb mixture into the vinegar while whisking. The reason you want to add the herbs to the oil first is to prevent the vinegar from ‘burning’ the herbs which will cause the herbs to cook and lose their freshness. • Keep in a squeeze bottle or small bowl until needed. Assembly • Take the plates with the salmon slices out of the refrigerator and season with sea salt. • Spoon the vinaigrette over the salmon flesh, being generous and making sure all the surface of the salmon gets coated. • Place the Avocado puree in random spots, evenly covering the salmon. • Continue to follow with the peppers, onions, and orange segments. • Lastly top with the pea tendrils and sliced radishes.
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Something Fishy at Monty’s by SAHIRI LOING photographs by HIMAWAN SUTANTO
We love our fish and seafood! And if you have a fish craving, head over to Monty’s where Chef Christer Foldnes, awarded Norway’s best seafood chef, dishes out the best in town.
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orway’s cold waters ensures that they produce the best fish and seafood in Europe. It is also one of the countries that proudly puts seafood-based dishes as an integral part of their daily diet. Well, at least that’s the norm in Chef Christer Foldnes’ hometown, Bergen, the second largest city in Norway. There the seafood is prepared using many different methods. These include salting, curing, fermenting, drying, and smoking. “This was basically the methods used in the old days to preserve the fishe and to make it last through the cold winters,” says the executive chef of Monty’s. “We use a lot of salt, sugar, and vinegar together with spices such as pepper, bay leaf, and onions.” Fresh fish are often consumed as the main meal and commonly poached or steamed along with fresh liver and roe (from cod). They are usually accompanied with a side dish of boiled potatoes and vegetables, as well as a sauce made from as simple as melted butter. From childhood, due to eating a lot of seafood and fish, Christer took a keen interest in seafood. In fact, he was once awarded Norway’s Best Seafood Chef of The Year. So what is it about cooking up a seafood dish that appeals to him the most? “I feel that it’s more challenging than cooking meat-based dishes,” says the 30-year-old chef. “There is a very small
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margin for error and it doesn’t take much to overcook seafood.” And for a simpler reasoning, he added, “it tastes awesome.” Based from his upbringing and experience, we gladly take his words for it. He mentioned that his favorite seafood dishes are soup-based such as bisque and bouillabaisse where all parts of the seafood are used. “We use leftover lobster, crab, fish bones, and many others,” he says. “The combination of the the seafood, together with vegetables and spices, makes you feel like you are utilizing all parts of the product and somehow contribute to a sustainable lifestyle.” At Monty’s, where the menu is heavily rooted in Scandinavian cuisine, Chef Christer incorporated a particular fish that is native to his hometown: the herring. “I wanted to give the guests at Monty’s something they have not tried before, something on the menu that I’ve never found in any restaurant here,” says Christer. “Plus I want to share a little bit of my Scandinavian roots - so far it has been very successful.” Which coincidentally, is my favorite dish on the menu. His Pickled and Smoked Herring is certainly a delectable dish with all of the other elements - like the baby potatoes and radish - blend nicely with the distinctive taste of herring. “The twist here is that the herring is served with all the traditional
ingredients but plated more like a elevated fine dining ‘salad’,” he reveals. “This gives the dish a more appealing look as the expectation from guests might be that the herring is often looked upon as a less favored fish to try.” True - the enjoyment of herring might fall into the “acquired taste” category as to those unfamiliar with this fish may find the taste to strong or, for a lack of a better word, extremely fishy. But for those claiming to be a true foodies, it wouldn’t hurt to try - especially the one coming from Christer’s kitchen. For lesser adventurous guests, they have a cod fish dish with roasted tomatoes and a cauliflower puree, which can be a good option. Or their pasta with seafood and salmon. As for the near future, you can be sure to find more Norwegian seafood on the Monty’s menu. “I will try to make changes to the menu on a monthly basis and for sure there will be new fish-based dishes,” says Christer. “I hope to be able to use a combination of the best available Norwegian seafood together with the best available Indonesian seafood.” That said, if you find yourself in the Senopati area, and want to be regaled with amazing European-Scandinavian food, and some of the best fish and seafood dishes in town, head over to Monty’s.
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Fashionable Food by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON
The food at La Moda at Plaza Indonesia is as fashionable as the high end brand outlets that surround it, thanks to executive chef Jaime Rojas Lopez.
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ood and fashion are inextricable. Food, like fashion, follows many trends, styles and iterations. And who will doubt that food on a plate can be as beautiful and artistic as today’s fashion gracing the runway. La Moda, the dining institution at Plaza Indonesia is where food and fashion collide. Located at the mall’s atrium, La Moda recently underwent a stylish make-over and has been reincarnated as a European Brasserie. Helming the kitchen is young Mexican chef, Jaime Rojas Lopez. Chef Jaime’s passion for food was inspired by preparing family meals at home from a young age. His family moved to Barcelona when he was three, and in Spain, he says, everything is about food. The family also loved to travel a lot. He talks about a particular trip to Italy, they were eating all over the place, on roadside restaurants, small towns and just enjoying the best pastas, lasagna and wine. “I remember that we were on a camping and hiking trip, then the whole family got sick except my brother. So h had to cook for all of us. Seeing him cook, inspired me to cook and feed people. When you give food to someone who is sick, down, sad, it can help uplift their mood. It means a lot. Food is powerful, I thought.” He continues: “I grew up seeing my mom, my aunts, my grandmother all cooking, and that gave me great memories and which I
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wanted to continue on my own, wanting to share that joy I experienced.” This is Chef Jaime’s first stint in Asia. He tells me that he has always wanted to come to Asia, he has been interested and curious about Asian food. “Some people have told me that I am sometimes inclined to make dishes with Asian flavors. I like noodles and ramen a lot, I like using soy sauce and I love friend rice. So it is very interesting for me to be here.” He continues by comparing Mexico City and Jakarta. “Jakarta looks very similar to Mexico City, its crowded, the traffic, the people are friendly, both are cities that never sleep! And our cuisines are similar too, both are spicy and we layer lots of flavor on the food. It is great to be here and explore Indonesian food.” Chef Jaime was trained in classical French techniques and worked under three Michelin star chef Alain Ducasse in Paris. Here he confesses he learned a lot: “Working in Paris opens your mind a lot. They take their food seriously there. The products that they get are top quality, which teaches you to respect the produce and strive to cook your best. It is tough, you get yelled at even if you do something good!” His culinary journey has also taken him to Spain, Puerto Rico, Chicago and Mexico. In his home town of Puebla, he opened a small 40 seat casual fine dining restaurant for Spanish Michelin
starred chef Oscar Calleja. Chef Jaime tells us that the food at La Moda is very casual and straight forward. “I think about food 24/7. My mind goes crazy trying to develop dishes. But I tell my team here that its not just about that. It’s about getting to know each other. They teach me about Indonesian food and I teach them what I know.” “The first thing I did on the menu as soon as I got here was make a rendang taco. Why, because you can put rendang on a tortilla and it tastes good. For real. La Moda is like fashion. We are creating food that is of the moment, sometimes following trends, sometimes creating them. Of course, with the main focus of serving good, straightforward food with great balanced flavors.” Chef Jaime says that he tries to push his team to do the best of their abilities. “I challenge them and ask them: ‘Would you serve this dish to your mother or your girlfriend?’ And they end up thinking.” Not only is he passionate about his food, but is one chef who doesn’t mind taking his time to teach his team, which definitely translates into better food on the plates. So if you find yourself in Plaza Indonesia and looking for a spot to not just sample great food, make your way to La Moda and say hello to Chef Jaime.
LA MODA | Plaza Indonesia, Jalan MH. Thamrin No. 28 - 30, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2992 4217 Instagram: @lamodajkt
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PAN-SEARED BARRAMUNDI WITH MUSHROOMS AND LEMONGRASS CONSOMMÉ Serves: 1
INGREDIENTS: Barramundi 1 pcs 1 tbsp
Fresh Barramundi Fillet (150 gr) Olive Oil Salt, for seasoning
Lemongrass Consommé 1 1/3 cups Water 1/4 cup Mirin 1/8 cup Soy Sauce 1 tbsp Kombu 1 tsp Bonito Flakes 3 pcs Lemongrass 1 tsp Salt Aromatic Rice 225 gr 3 1/2 cups 1 pc 1 pc 1 pc 10 gr
Basmati Rice Water Ginger (10 gr) Garlic (15 gr) Bay Leaf Salt
Garnish 5 gr 5 gr 20 gr 1 tbsp 5 gr
Honshimeji Mushroom Green Onion Bok Choy Olive Oil Salt
Pickled Radishes 30 gr Radishes 1/2 cup Water 1/4 cup Red Wine Vinegar 18 gr Sugar 5 gr Salt
STEPS
Barramundi • Season the fish with salt and olive oil on all sides. • Pre heat a non-stick pan to medium high heat. Sear the fish on the skin side down until golden and crispy. • Finish the fish in the oven at 170 C for a couple of minutes until cooked. Lemongrass Consommé • Mix all the ingredients except the bonito flakes in a pot and simmer for 30 minutes. • Turn off the fire and add the bonito flakes, let it rest for 5 minutes and strain.
Aromatic Rice • Wash the rice. • Mix water with all the aromatic ingredients previously chopped. • Boil and add rice. Once it boils again lower the heat to the minimum and cook the rice covered for 15 minutes. • Remove from the heat and let rest for 5 minutes. Garnish • Cut mushrooms from their stem, separate bok choy into leaves, and cut green onion in diagonal in bite size pieces. • In a hot pan cook the veggies, leaving them a bit raw. Season. Pickled Radishes • Mix water, salt, sugar and simmer until the sugar and salt are dissolved. • Remove from heat and add the vinegar. • Cut the radishes into quarters and add to the pickling liquid. • Let the radishes pickle for at least 6 hours before using them. Assembly • In the middle of the plate assemble the rice, top with the cooked fish. • Garnish with the vegetables and serve with the consommé in a jar on the side so the customer can pour over his dish.
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Soul Food by GUPTA SITORUS & PRIMO RIZKY photographs by AKI
A hearty meal inspired from different regions of Asia with hints of Caribbean influences makes Copper Kitchen & Bar, helmed by Chef Miles Belfield, a soulful experience.
C O V E R F E AT U R E
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bud, the spiritual capital of Bali, attracts many tourists. For those who decide to stay in Ubud, it is mystical and divine experience. But to other visitors, who predominantly stay in the Southern part of the island, Ubud is still a popular day-trip destination, not to be missed. But all this it has pretty much changed in the last two years. While during the old days there were not many interesting restaurants or food establishment in this area, now Ubud has a host of choices of eating places that offer appetizing dishes. Copper Kitchen & Bar located at the most hip boutique hotel in Ubud -- Bisma Eight -- is one of these game-changer restaurant that has contributed to the evolution of Ubud. Being a part of a boutique hotel certainly makes Copper Kitchen & Bar a restaurant that emphasizes on exquisite design in every aspect, from the interior of the restaurant that is filled with copper-accented décor to the presentation of the dishes. The major protagonist in ‘designing’ the food at the Copper is its executive chef Miles Belfield. The Bahamian chef has spent many years in various countries before finally docked here. Bali has now become a home for Miles, where he has learned numerous valuable experiences that in turn serve as his inspiration in creating his culinary pieces.
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The rich and endless choices of ingredients and spices that Bali has to offer are his key to creating a specific and distinguished menu with and genius play on wonderful flavors. The main theme of the Copper Kitchen & Bar’s menu is a hearty meal, which is manifested as soul food from various regions of Asia. Local signature dishes such as Peking duck, pork belly, satay and fried rice can be easily found here, but of course, all come in Chef Miles’s culinary interpretation that involves different international influences. The result is a one of a kind, unique yet familiar tasting dishes. Chef Miles acquired his global perspectives in cooking from years of cooking experience in restaurants in many countries, such as in the United Kingdom where he spent more than 15 years. However, his homeland of the Bahamas remains a big influence to Miles, especially when dealing with flavors. He explained that in general, Caribbean cuisine is similar to Asian dishes, which have significant spicy and sweet flavors and a lot of fruit elements such as mango, papaya, coconut and plantain. As a homage to the Bahamas, Miles presents a unique black pepper pan-fried shrimp dish served with pineapple and coconut sauce, a dish that has strong nod to Caribbean flavors.
Living in Bali also offers a new set of learning experiences. While studying the many interesting aspects of Indonesian cuisine, especially Balinese, Miles always takes time to enjoy traditional foods at small stalls in around the island and taste different dishes. He is also fond of visiting traditional markets to search for local produce that may not be available elsewhere. These are the kind of personal experiences that has taught Miles many new things and have helped him enrich the menu at Copper. More interestingly, Chef Miles and the Copper Kitchen & Bar are committed to contribute to the local environment by using local ingredients from farmers in Ubud as well as from their own garden, which is located not far from the restaurant. In fact, every morning, he take a stroll to the garden to see which fresh produce can be used in the day’s dishes. Miles makes sure that he uses these seasonal fresh ingredients to create a special daily menu for his customers. By focusing on hearty meals and communal dishes to be enjoyed with friends and family, Chef Miles vows to put a smile on every guest’s face through a unique experience presented by the satisfying flavors, beautiful presentation, and premium quality ingredients offered at the Copper Kitchen & Bar.
COPPER KITCHEN & BAR | Bisma Eight, Jalan Bisma No. 53, Gianyar, Ubud, Bali | T: +62 361 479 2888 www.copperubud.com | Instagram: @copperubud
C O V E R F E AT U R E
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A F O O DI E ’ S L I F E
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A F O O DI E ’ S L I F E
CHRISTOPHER’S BALI by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON
Christopher Smith tells us of the many hats he wears as Executive Chef of The Stones Legian, Bali
C
hef Christopher tells me that he doesn’t find many challenges in his role as executive chef at The Stones Legian, Bali. “I tend to see obstacles more as opportunities and find they usually result in a new funky creation or idea. This is the element I enjoy most about my role,” said the Australian chef. Creator is what best describes what he does now, Chef Christopher says. “A chef’s job these days, particularly hotel chefs, is not just about cooking anymore, we become somewhat interior designers, innovators and scientists as well. I enjoy the whole process from the idea and the path to the end product whether it be a new dish on the menu, a restaurant promotion or a sensory experience coffee break set up.” As multifaceted as it may sound, I totally agree that the traditional role of the hotel executive chef has now evolved to cover more responsibilities. And obviously, for Chef Christopher, he thrives on this diversity. Christopher unlike many foodies, didn’t grow up in the kitchen of a cooking family. “My first childhood memories of food are filled with mixed emotions, going to my grandmother’s house for her brown stew or freshly baked scones are the stand out highlights.” Unfortunately, his mother was no culinary master. “Please don’t tell her I said that!” So we guess, Christopher had a few meals in his childhood that he’d rather forget. So I has him how he got into cooking. “I think maybe it was so I could teach my mum?” he says with a chuckle. “No seriously, I just kind of fell into the industry straight out of high school, washing dishes and helping the chefs to do some basic
preparation which evolved into a passion for what the chefs were doing and I soon realized that was where I belonged. As a young chef Christopher narrates that he was influenced by everyone he worked with and he took elements from each of his mentors to create his own style. “I have worked for many executive chefs and executive pastry chefs, and sous chefs and each and everyone of them has had some influence on my cooking style. If you are looking for a celebrity name, I am a big fan of Heston Blumenthal and his remarkable creativity,” Christopher moved to Bali in 2012 after working in kitchens in Queensland, Brisbane, Gold Coast, Hong Kong and Singapore. And it looks like he is enjoyin his stay in Bali. “There is nothing not to like about living in Bali, the culture, the food scene, the people, the beaches, I love it all!” It is a dream to live and work in Bali, with the beach right at your doorstep. “The restaurants I most frequently visit are Fat Chow at Temple Hill and Cuca in Jimbaran. For drinks and informal hang outs, it really depends on my mood. Most often I head over to a small beach bar in the Nusa Dua area or other relaxed places like La Plancha to unwind and watch the sunset.” Now we know where to stalk the good looking chef! Christopher tells us that he loves Japanese food and anything sweet. “Japanese food is a problem for me as I can’t get enough of it whenever I dine in a Japanese restaurant I force myself to try as much as possible to a point where I can barely walk by the time I leave. The sweets issue can be dangerous too. As a chef, I am surrounded by sweet stuff all day and it
can be very hard to resist. And I quite often crumble to the temptation!” We ask Chef Christopher to whip us up a fish dish for this month’s issue. “I love cooking with fish, it is such a versatile commodity in the ways it can be prepared. John Dory and Tuna would be the two fishes I enjoy cooking the most. John dory is just a superior species with its flavor profile and the texture is phenomenal, tuna on the other hand is quite common worldwide but what can be done with it is endless.” His favorite fish dish would be a classic John Dory fillet, pan seared with capers, lemon, good quality butter and fished with fresh chopped fine herbs. Listening to him just made me hungry. For this issue, Chef Christopher prepares Yellow fin tuna two ways. “I have used some Peruvian style for the ceviche and combined with a dish I have been doing for years which is the tuna nori spring roll. The garnishes on the dish are both matched to the protein so the burnt chili corn salsa compliments the ceviche and the tempura chips, while radish and garlic aioli compliment the spring roll.” See the recipe of Chef Christopher’s Yellow Fin Tuna Two ways on the next pages. After our chat, we cajole Chef Christopher to jump into the pool for our profile photo. After some negotiations, he relents and walks into the pool and ‘fishes out’ a fresh catch. Such a trooper! If you are around the Legian area, do drop by at The Stones and sample their delicious and expertly prepared food. Say hello to Chef Christopher if you see him, but we doubt if he will jump into the pool for you.
THE STONES - LEGIAN, BALI - A MARRIOTT AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION HOTEL | Jalan Raya Pantai Kuta - Banjar Legian Kelod, Bali T: +62 361 300 5888 | www.stoneshotelbali.com | Twitter: @TheStonesHotel | Instagram: @thestoneshotelbali
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A F O O DI E ’ S L I F E 2 sheets gelatin 1/2 bunch fresh cilantro 1/2 bunch fresh chervil White pepper Sugar Garlic Aioli 500ml Yields 2 bulbs Garlic 5 pcs Egg Yolks 40ml White Vinegar 500ml Salad Oil 1 pc Whole Lemon( juice) 20gr Dijon mustard Salt Garnish Shaved Radish Pea Tendrils Tempura Pearls Micro Edamame Leaves
STEPS
Tuna Ceviche • Place tuna fillet in freezer for 1 hour until very cold but not frozen. • Slice tuna into 2mm thick slices (20cm x 4cm) • Mix juice and zest of all fruit with olive oil and very fine brunoise of chili. • To serve lay tuna on plate and brush generously with the ‘ceviche’ marinade and leave 3mins before serving to allow the citrus to cure the tuna slightly Spring Roll • Cut the tuna into large rectangular prism 2cm wide x 2cm high x 10cm long • Brush with sesame oil, then season with Togarashi and sea salt. • Wrap the tuna in nori then spring roll wrapper • Deep fry for 25- 30 seconds.
YELLOW FIN TUNA TWO WAYS Ceviche and Spring Roll, Avocado espuma, Garlic aioli and Burnt corn and Organic Quinoa salsa Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS: Tuna Ceviche 160gr 50ml 1 pc 1 pc 1 pc 1 pc
Yellow Fin Tuna Fillet Extra Virgin Olive Oil Orange, zest & juice Lemon Lime Large Red Chili
Spring Roll 200gr Yellow Fin Tuna Nori Sesame Oil Spring Roll Wrapper
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Sea salt Togarashi (Japanese seasoning)
Burnt Corn And Quinoa Salsa 2 pcs Corn, kernels removed 100gr Cilantro 2 pcs Large Red Chilis, deseeded and cut into fine brunoise 100gr Organic Quinoa 110ml Vegetable stock 2 pcs Shallots (brunoise) 50ml Rice vinegar 20gr Sugar Avocado Espuma 250gr 200gr 50ml 1/2 tsp
ripe avocados whole milk organic yogurt lemon juice salt
Burnt Corn And Quinoa Salsa • Lightly toast the quinoa in a pan and add boiling vegetable stock all at once, cover and place in 180 degree oven for 14 minutes. • In a very hot pan sear the corn until starts to burn, remove pan from the heat and add in the vinegar to deglaze and the sugar, return to medium heat for 1 minute to reduce the vinegar. • Allow both to cool then mix and add chili, shallots and cilantro. Avocado Espuma • Wrap the whole garlic in aluminum foil and roast for 30mins at 180 degrees Celsius • Allow to cool then cut the end a squeeze out the soft roasted garlic. • Add garlic, egg yolks and mustard to blender and blend. • Slowly add oil to emulsify, adding small amount of the vinegar as you go to control the consistency • Finish with lemon and salt
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W E N T T H E R E AT E T H AT
Koh-m get Sam-ui!! by RICHMOND BLANDO
There is nothing like getting to the grass roots of it all and gaining a better understanding of how this cuisine works.
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t is the middle of August and I have been spending my valuable time in Koh Samui as wisely as I could, meaning swimming, shopping and spa-ing (is that a word?). My skinned is tanned, my body has been twisted into a pretzel for the last few days and I am on a first name basis with the vendors. I have biked the island, walked into temples and most importantly eaten as much of the Thai cuisine as I could. I asked the people of Hansar Resort, where I was staying at that time, if there are some other things I could do, they were eager to suggest their private cooking classes and I immediately jumped at the idea. So I got a schedule the next day and chose three dishes I can try to learn (emphasis on ‘try’). Food is a huge part of experiencing the culture when you travel. And when you return home after a trip, there is nothing like having a dish from that region, full of flavor, texture, and smells to transport you right back to your travel experience. So in a way, food memories are a type of souvenir from your travels that you can experience again and again back at home! What better way to reminisce about your travels than
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to be able to cook authentic meals from the destinations you have visited. That’s part of the reason that I have always wanted to take cooking classes while traveling, especially here in Thailand; because who doesn’t like Thai food? I’ve always thought it to be funny when you pay a fee for cooking the food you eat, but you can’t really equate value for cost. Now the only way this would become worthwhile is if you take home what you learned and go beyond the experience of the class but to own the skill and to keep on practicing. What should I learn to cook? Though it maybe such a daunting task to choose from the selection of, the first thing I had to consider is, if I can cook these same dishes at home, which meant the ingredients needed to be readily available. Thai dishes use a lot of ingredients like tamarind paste, coconut milk, Thai basil, and lime (to name a few), it would be difficult and a shame, if everything will be reduced down to a jar one finds in the supermarket, a “catch all” paste to capture the taste of a good Tom Yum.
Keeping that in mind, I chose to learn some of the simpler dishes, the Tom Kah Kai (coconut chicken soup), Mango sticky rice and Som Tum (Green Papaya Salad), I kept it simple so I can etch in my memory while I cook them. Hansar Samui has something unique working in their favor, which is having their own organic garden, which ensures that the meal you are about to learn deserves the best.
W E N T T H E R E AT E T H AT We started in the morning as the sous chef of Chef Stephen Jean Dion took us to the local market to shop for the proteins necessary for the task at hand. This in itself was a treat for the foodie in everyone as there was a moment when I was fighting the temptation for me to purchase things simply because they were interesting. After that, we proceeded to pick other ingredients from the garden like mushrooms, lemon grass and thai basil. We could only stay out there for a few minutes before the sun’s heat started to intensify. We proceeded into the hotel kitchen and I got to be part of the hotel’s award winning kitchen, they handed me my apron and we began to worked back and forth on several dishes. Waiting on the steaming rice and then working on the coconut drizzle that we would use later on. We later on moved seamlessly to the preparation of the Tom Kah Kai’s base. The salad came easily as we had to go by trial and error on the dressing, I had to be careful on this on as not to feed my ego too much and claim
that I can take spicy food, because I was reminded that I have to eat all these things myself. After 2 hours of immersing in the kitchen heat and feeling the sweat on my brow drip, seeing the three dishes emerge
from the individual ingredients was like hearing music come out of individual notes. Thai Food will always be a quintessential part of traveling to Thailand, and I am glad I got a chance to see, smell and taste this first hand.
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I CO N I C
RM MEDAN BARU by RIAN FARISA
Fish head curry? Then come to Medan Baru, as people would say in Jakarta. However, there’s more to the story behind this restaurant that has existed for four decades now. Come and join us as we unravel the mystery behind their good food and excellent service.
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T
here will always be a feast of food when one decides to have his lunch or dinner at a Minang restaurant. Whether it is at a lapau or small restaurants in residential neighborhoods or at big, notable restaurants in the main streets; they will still offer you dishes numbering at least a dozen. Not many, however, knew that each restaurant is supposed to have its own specialty dish. While specialty dishes are usually mentioned on the signboard of each restaurant that I encountered back then in West Sumatra, I never saw the common case happening here in Java. So anyone would make their own choice among the array of delicacies presented on the dining table. Some would opt for rendang, gulai tunjang, or ayam pop for example. As for the case of Rumah Makan Medan Baru in Krekot, Central Jakarta; it is impossible to not know that its specialty is the gulai kepala ikan kakap and other interesting choices influenced not just purely from West Sumatra’s legacy of recipes but also from a bit of Acehnese and North Sumatran. It was by the initiative of Mr. Ibrahim A. Wahab who started his business here around 40 years ago. Learning his tricks of the trade from the previous restaurant he was employed at, he decided that he should start his own a few years after that. “I started out as a dishwasher and working hard can get you your own restaurant in the end”, says Pak Ibrahim. The evolution of RM Medan Baru is a natural one as the idealistic nature of Pak Ibrahim calls him to nurture everything in details when it comes to service, food, and the whole business. Carefully over the past decade, Pak Ibrahim has opened up two branches at Sunter, Puri Indah, and renovated his signature restaurant here with better facilities. When it comes to quality, Pak Ibrahim is very picky with his choice of ingredients. “Our mackerel’s head came fresh from Lampung or Papua, I personally supervise every ingredient coming fresh daily from the market, and even for the orange juice; we pride ourselves by using the best from Acehnese oranges”, explains Pak Ibrahim to the length that he wants to achieve certain characteristics of taste for his food and the importance of sustaining the quality every single day. With this standard, even the staff are very attentive with the needs of the customers. “We always make sure that the food came in with the right temperature and they will take care of small but important things like for example, asking if you need additional rice. We want to deliver it warm for you every time”, he adds.
I CO N I C Among the rarity found in RM Medan Baru when compared with its peers is the appearance of several unique dishes, there’s an addition to the rich fish head curry which is the epitome of what Medan Baru stands for in the past four decades. The restaurant also offers fried green pigeon, sop buntut with tomato-based broth, fish tail curry, duck curry, chayote leaves cooked in coconut milk, and asam ganja as an excellent condiment. With the good reputation made over the years, it has become common for RM Medan Baru to cater to the VVIPs of the country and also foreign people specifically coming to entertain their senses at the restaurant. “We often receive guests from cities far outside Jakarta and up to Singaporeans or Malaysians. They often
take away our fish head curry back home as an oleh-oleh”, says Pak Ibrahim. Lunch time at any popular restaurant may feel chaotic and disorganized but thanks to Pak Ibrahim’s instructions, the staff can still allocate everyone to their seats immediately. A group by the dozen is a common sight during dining rush hours. The use of technology to communicate between staffs helps a lot to ease the traffic of customers. Moreover, the staffs responsible with the food are working fast to deliver it fresh for those who have just ordered. Everything can be achieved well in such a short period. In the meantime, Pak Ibrahim greets the incoming guests and hover around the restaurant to personally see that their needs are fulfilled. Not long, he came by
RM Medan Baru | Jalan Raya Krekot Bunder no. 65, Pasar Baru – Jakarta | T: +62 21 384 4273
and gave out a good trick on how to enjoy the fish head curry to maximize pleasure. What is it? Well, it is something that you have to learn from personally the next time you’re there. From this we learn that upon the fourth decade of its existence, Rumah Makan Medan Baru has set a new standard of service and quality for a restaurant specializing in Minang cuisine. Although customarily people come to dine briskly and would complain of nothing else aside from the food, there’s a degree of elaboration to smoothen up the whole process for the sake of their comfort. This is what Pak Ibrahim is good at and the restaurant is known reputedly other than its scrumptious offering that we all love so much.
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TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
IKAN NILA PAK UGI by RIAN FARISA
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iving in the world’s biggest archipelago means that you have to eat seafood more every day. With the abundance of our frutti di mare, it’s easy to stop by at any given seafood shack on the side of the street or make way once in a while to splurge at a really good upscale restaurant for that. But the beauty of working with street food articles is to find the right place that goes with the right price. In the case of Pak Ugi’s restaurant, it’s easy to get lost between the throng of shops and restaurants of Kelapa Gading. As an easy pointer for you, Pak Ugi’s restaurant can be found around a hundred meters after
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If anyone speaks about seafood in Indonesia, then it cannot be separated with what people love best – grilled fish or fried fish. In this issue, it’s time to visit Pak Ugi and his finest tilapias right in the heart of Kelapa Gading.
the roundabout from Mall Kelapa Gading on the left side. Arriving at 2.30pm I was caught in awe with how they operated the business. In contrast with many other local small restaurants or even hawkers, the staffs at Pak Ugi’s were diligent in maintaining the cleanliness and the speed of service. The one man behind the grill was responsible of hundreds of tilapia, pomfret, or gourami every day but he did not neglect his work even for a couple of minutes and that’s how the service became so disciplined. I always love the tilapia. With its moderate size, the flesh is plentiful and
the bone structure was unlike other fish. The bigger bones gave out a good space for us to dig in with ease and that’s how I remembered how divine my visit to Bang Themmy’s back in Bandung last year. That afternoon, I opted for the grilled tilapia and the fried version in butter sauce. The latter was the typical dish you will find in many Chinese restaurants although it is commonly applied to chicken or frog’s legs. Much to my surprise, it worked so well with the tilapia, thanks to the crispy skin and the rich, sweet and velvety butter sauce. The grilled tilapia was also decent but quickly overshadowed by the qualities found with its fried counterpart. In spite of that, the sambal came as the rescuer. As praised by many, Pak Ugi’s sambal was not only fiery, but has that complex balance of flavors into it and the freshness coming out from the squeezed lime. The quality that I witnessed was proven well with the price and that became an experience that cannot be traded anywhere else. Be sure to come by during odd hours to avoid queues, but if you happen to be that unlucky, I’d stay even for more than an hour to wait for seat!
TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
OPENING HOURS: Daily, 11am – 10pm SPEND: IDR 50,000 – IDR 75,000 / person
IKAN NILA PAK UGI | Jalan Boulevard Raya Blok FX1 no. 1, Kelapa Gading, Jakarta | T: +62 21 9745 1451
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TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
OTAK-OTAK BINATU AN by RIAN FARISA
While otak-otak is an ubiquitous snack which can be easily found in many corners of Jakarta, paying an homage to one of the oldest proponents of this particular delicacy is a journey that any foodie must undertake, at least once in their lifetime. Therefore, allow us to lead you to Otak-Otak Binatu “AN” for that.
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dhering to the principles of diversification with prudence and discipline could be the best decision ever made when it comes to a business. Of course, there’s always a downside of not putting the eggs in one basket. You will have to spend more time maintaining everything so that your businesses will all work just fine. That’s when a certain laundry shop or binatu in the Roxy neighborhood of Jakarta decided to include selling otak-otak and iced coconut water as their side business years ago. With what I said earlier about prudence, the family who owns the laundry apparently since the early stage of their otak-otak business decided to emphasize the aspects of quality as well. Therefore in time, people started to recognize the superiority of their otak-otak that goes well with a huge mug filled with young, fresh coconut flesh and water. The rest is history. The otak-otak business has become so successful that the owners wanted to concentrate more with the food business rather than the old one. Even so, they retained the old laundry’s name wherever they go. So what is actually so special about their otak-otak? First of all, we should not compare this to any random otak-otak sold by bicycle vendors under pedestrian bridges in Sudirman. Almost in their sixth decade journey now, Otak-Otak Binatu “AN” formulates how to harmonize the strength of mackerel and the natural spices better than anyone in the business. The mixture of fish and spices are then coated thinly with the starch so that the mackerel’s taste is still the main cast of the ensemble. Wrapped in moderate size with banana leaves, the crew grill the otak-otak perpetually from time to time so that if anyone orders, the otak-otak is ready to be served hot. While personally I found that I had better peanut sauce better somewhere else, it is nevertheless still served well as a good dipping sauce for the otak-otak.
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The consistency of the otak-otak here is almost like a gel but it has that mild chewiness that I like a lot, a careful amount of spices which makes everything feel in harmony, nicely grilled, juicy, and also expensive at the same time. For IDR 9,000 per piece, this might well be counted amongst the most priciest snacks, almost on par with Batagor Kingsley in Bandung.
Other than that, Otak-Otak Binatu “AN” serves other worthy delicacies for you to try. One amongst the most recommended ones is the bakso ikan, or the fish meatballs served with soup and noodles. Having lunch here or even snacking on a hot day of summer would be the best experience of all, especially when you’re having their famed coconut water with that!
TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
OPENING HOURS: Daily, 10am – 8pm SPEND: IDR 25,000 – IDR 50,000 / person
OTAK OTAK BINATU AN | Jalan AM Sangaji No. 23, Jakarta | T: +62 21 6386 4027
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CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E
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CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E
A Wealth of Experience by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON
D
arrel Cartwrite is settling into his new role as the general manager of The Park Lane Jakarta. Barely a month into the job when we chatted with him, he is slowly etching his mark at the popular Jakarta hotel. Darrel has moved from a post in the Maldives, but before that was in Vietnam, Kenya and Japan. Being fresh off the boat, so to speak, the first question I ask Darrel is how he finds Jakarta. “Its interesting. There’s lots of food on offer here, lots of ethnic food, classic Americana, European-Asian fusion, of different qualities and standards. The street food looks very interesting.” I quickly ask if he has tried some of the street food, but Darrel says he’s been too busy to venture out. “I like Indonesian food. Some of the food I’ve tasted has a mixture Thai-Vietnamese influence, then it also has that Arabic-Eastern-Indian mix.” Darrel has noticeably done his homework, trying local food. “I like good food,” Darrel continues. “But I don’t like the overindulgence, high etiquette and formality which sometimes is associated with fine dining, making it complicated.” He believes that food must be enjoyed and should be relaxed and playful. “I don’t like to be too
formal, because I think formality reduces creativity, it reduces the humanistic aspect of food, and at the end of the day, food is about gathering, and about communicating and about sharing.” The U.K.-born, American-raised hotelier is obviously passionate about his desire to bring dining back to its basics. “We should bring food back to its essence, which is a communication focal point for families and communities. We should bring it back to the basics.” All that said, I ask Darrel how he will move The Park Lane towards the direction of his premise. “I think The Park Lane wants to create a more lifestyle hotel, with more playful elements. We want to give a resort experience to a business hotel. So if you are in town for meetings, we want you to be able to come back to the hotel after a day’s work and truly relax and unwind in a tranquil setting.” With Darrel being a big foodie too, our conversation eventually is steered to food he likes to eat. “My guilty pleasure would be a nice wagyu steak together with some lobster.” Having lived in Vietnam for a number of years, he considers Vietnamese food one of his favorites, he will go for the likes pho and fresh spring rolls anytime.
THE PARK LANE JAKARTA | Jalan Casablanca Kav. 18, Jakarta | T: +62 21 828 2000 www.parklanejakarta.com | Instagram: @parklanejkt | Twitter: @ParkLaneJkt
Darrel Cartwright, newly appointed General Manager of The Park Lane Jakarta shares with us his thoughts on food with a global prospective. “I also like Thai food, green curries, red curries, but not too spicy. I believe if you over power food with spice, you really lose flavor of the food and it looses its essence.” For dessert, he counts a nice vanilla coffee cake with some mascarpone on top to surely hit his sweet spot. As we wind down our conversation. Darrel makes a huge observation and gives us a quick insight into what we might expect on the menus at The Park Lane very soon. “No body in Jakarta makes coffee based foods. So we are looking into that. I would like to have a fillet minion with like a coffee flavor infused. Maybe coffee flavored cakes. This might be something we want to do at The Park Lane. We want to use the essence of coffee to introduce some coffee-based signature dishes, because no one is doing it. Coffee has become such an integral part of everyone’s life now, and with Indonesia’s long coffee history, but no one is really exploring the opportunities outside of the drink.” Something to definitely look forward to at The Park Lane. We want to give Darrel a warm welcome to Jakarta and excitedly wait for the new playful changes he will bring to one of our favorite hotels.
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Pairing Wine and Fish by JED DOBLE
Flaky and Lean
Medium Textured Fish
These are mild flavored white fish with filets that are usually thin. Examples are Sea Bass, Branzino, Black Sea bass, Flounder, Sole, Fluke, Tilapia, Wild Striped Bass and Haddock. Look for refreshing and zesty white wines to balance the delicate flavor of the fish.
These are still flaky fish but are firmer and thicker. Examples are: Trout, Arctic char, Catfish, Red snapper, Grouper, Skate, Cod, Hake, Black fish, Redfish, Halibut, Black Cod, Monkfish, Chilean Seabass, Escobar. Pair medium textured fish with wines with medium bodied white wines with high aromatics or rich full-bodied white wines aged in oak.
• Champagne • Pinot Grigio (Italy) • White wines from the South of France • Vinho Verde (Portugal) • Greek White Wines • Portuguese White Wines • Cava • Sauvignon Blanc (Loire, France) • White Bordeaux • Verdejo (Rueda, Spain) • Chardonnay (Chablis, France)
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• Chardonnay • Sauvignon Blanc (Califorinia) • Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand) • White Rioja • Semillon • Dry Chenin Blanc • Fiano (Italy) • Dry Riesling (Washington) • Pinot Gris
T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D
We know how daunting it can be to be faced with a wine list. I personally shiver at the thought of having to choose a wine for the table. So here we have our Pairing Wine and Fish for Dummies List! We have characterized fish into four different groups. From flaky tilapia to steak-like swordfish, there are a range of potential wine pairings. Once you have determined the type of fish you are having, choose from our list of wines that pair well with the fish type.
Strongly Flavored Fish
Meaty Fish
Those which are extremely salty and taste like the sea. Examples are: Anchovies, Sardines, Herring, Mackerel Pair Strongly Flavored Fish with wines that can go against the strong flavors.
These types of fish are firm with a meaty and steak-like texture, such as Bluefish, Salmon, Mackerel, Mahi Mahi, Shark, Swordfish and Tuna. Pair meaty fish with rich white wines with lots of flavor and even a few red and rosé wines.
• Champagne • Dry Lambrusco Rosé • Dry Rosé • Pinot Noir • Greek Red Wines • Cava • Dry Riesling
• Oaked Chardonnay • Viognier • Sauvignon Vert (Italy) • Dry Lambrusco • Vintage Champagne • White Burgundy • Dry Rosé • Chardonnay (Italy) • White Cotes du Rhone • White Pinot Noir • Pinot d’Alsace
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TRIED AND TESTED
Whole Red Snapper, Three Ways by JED DOBLE photographs by HIMAWAN SUTANTO
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TRIED AND TESTED
Don’t be afraid of fish. Whole fish, whether grilled, baked or en papillote (check out our Pantry 101 article for different fish cooking techniques) will always wow your guests at any dinner party. Go to your local market, grocery or fish monger early in the morning to get the freshest fish possible. Rule of thumb, freshness is king. Look at the fish eyes, make sure they are clear, the gills, making sure they are red and the fish doesn’t have any smell. Here we give our fool-proof recipe for Whole Red Snapper which you can do using any of our three flavor styles: Asian, Mediterranean or Caribbean. Try these at home and wait for the oohs and ahhs of your guests. Happy cooking!
WHOLE RED SNAPPER, THREE WAYS Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS:
1pc Whole Red Snapper, 1.5 kg, cleaned and scaled
Asian Style
1/3 cup Cilantro, chopped 2 tbsp Fresh Ginger, minced 2 pcs Scallions, finely chopped 1 pc Garlic Clove, minced 1 tbsp Sesame Oil 1 tbsp Olive oil, plus more for basting
Mediterranean Style
1/3 cup Parsley, finely chopped 2 tbsp Capers, rinsed and finely chopped 2 pcs Garlic Cloves, minced 1/2 tsp Peppercorns 1 tbsp Oil, plus more for rubbing
Braised Lemongrass Chicken 10 gr 3 stalks 500 gr 1 pc 1.5 L 2 pcs 4 pcs
Fresh Turmeric Lemongrass Chicken Salam leaves Chicken stock Garlic clove Shallots
Caribbean Ingredients
2 tbsp Fresh Ginger, minced 1 pc Garlic Clove, minced 1 pc Serrano Chili, seeded and minced 1 tsp Fresh Thyme, minced 1/8 tsp Ground Allspice 1 tbsp Olive Oil, plus more for rubbing
STEPS:
• Cook the fish: Pick your favorite flavor styles (Asian, Mediterranean or Caribbean) • Choose one of the flavor styles and chop all of the ingredients except the oil together with a large pinch of salt. Transfer the paste to a small bowl and stir in the oil. Make 5 parallel 3-inch-long cuts on each side of the snapper, slicing almost through to the bone. Lightly season the fish with salt and fill the slashes with the paste. Rub the fish all over with canola oil. • Light a grill and oil a grill basket that’s large enough to hold the fish. Set the fish in the basket and grill over moderate heat, turning once, until the flesh just flakes with a fork, about 20 minutes. Carefully remove the fish from the basket and transfer to a platter.
STUFF OF LEGENDS
OOM MUCHARAM ENDI by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA AND OOM MUCHARAM ENDI’S PERSONAL COLLECTION
Four decades as a general manager is something, but becoming the instrumental part of the restaurant he’s been working at and also having the opportunity to serve international VVIPs is an achievement of its own. Let us introduce you to the man – Oom Mucharam Endi.
TRIED AND TESTED
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STUFF OF LEGENDS
T
he history of the Indonesian F&B industry gives credit not just for visionary chefs, business owners, or those who are well-versed with food such as journalists, teachers, or even common foodies. In fact, there should always be a place for people who dedicate themselves in the frontline of service, such as for this instance – a seasoned general manager in the service for almost four decades. Oom Mucharam Endi has seen through the thick and thin of managing restaurant affairs with the bulk of his experience mostly dedicated for Oasis – a legendary premium Indonesian restaurant in Jakarta. In his line of work, he has experienced how difficult it is to manage restaurants; starting from the hotels he had worked for previously and the unique challenges found only at Oasis. The early stage of Pak Oom’s career saw him entering the hospitality industry without actually ever aspiring for it. It all started with his love for challenges. “It took me only awhile to decide that I should embark on this career by accepting a job at a hotel in Medan back in the 1970s”, tells Pak Oom. “I wanted to test myself with a career at the restaurant because of its never ending challenges. With a little bit of hard work, I was entrusted with a higher position in the hotel’s restaurant”, says Pak Oom surely yet modestly. After some time, Medan proved to be too small for Pak Oom. The hospitality industry back then was still underdeveloped there or anywhere in Indonesia. He quickly set himself on a route back to Jakarta after the earliest opportunity arose. “Even in the 70s, there were only a handful of big hotels in Jakarta. I was admitted to the latest one in Jakarta – the
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Kartika Plaza. It was located side by side with Hotel Indonesia and no less luxurious. To be with a brand new hotel in the capital city, well, that’s clearly something”, reminisces Pak Oom. Similar with the celebrated Nirwana Lounge of Hotel Indonesia, Kartika Plaza had its own premiere club that was ultimately entrusted to the adept hands of Pak Oom as the general manager. Not long after, his former superior at Oasis offered him an intriguing new job as the assistant manager. “I was honored but uneasy at the same time. It was never about the money at all but I decided to give him a hand”, says Pak Oom, remembering how grateful he is now by accepting that fateful choice. “Despite the long hours, I was proud that we ultimately finalized our rijsttafel concept and I was tasked to manage the manpower and the service”, says Pak Oom. “Imagine if there were at least five groups who ordered rijsttafel at the same time, I had to allocate at least 60 maidens to serve every one!” As we all know, Oasis Restaurant’s rijsttafel concept requires exactly 12 maidens to serve one group of guests and each is tasked to bring one special Indonesian dish. A few years later, after a series of foreign managers who reigned over Oasis, it was finally time for Pak Oom to rise to the occasion. “The owner wanted to appoint an Indonesian for the job and I happily accepted his bidding. The rest is history as you can see”, says Pak Oom cheerfully smiling. Through the hard earned reputation over the past decades, Oasis Restaurant has been receiving international personages as its guests. Pak Oom personally received Zinedine Zidane, Phil Collins, Evander
Holyfield, and country leaders - such as the kings and queens and princes of European countries; presidents, chancellors, and prime ministers such as Angela Merkel, Margaret Thatcher, Mahathir Mohamad, and also the Indonesian presidents from time to time. “Bill Clinton and the first lady’s visit here was probably the most dramatic visit ever. How could we were not surprised? We were notified only around 20 minutes before their arrival!” remembers Pak Oom. He quickly arranged everything according to what the Secret Service asked from seating position, examination of the food by presidential doctors, and performing the task he’s excelled at – as a professional general manager of the restaurant. “I personally took care of their needs and even notifying them that some of the dishes were a bit spicy. Mr Clinton liked it, although he was sweating because of it. Well, it was such a memorable experience”, says Pak Oom reminiscing the moments. Today, at his retirement age, Pak Oom is still entrusted to take care of Oasis like he has been doing for so long. “The owner wanted me to still work for them. Me, on the other hand, have always enjoyed my role here. It’s like a win-win solution for everyone”, he gleefully confesses. There’s no telling what’s next for Pak Oom. Even on the spur of the moment, he feels that one must always give his best wherever he is. In Pak Oom’s case it’s for the Oasis, but we must remember also that it came from someone who inadvertently decided his path of career in the hospitality industry. Perhaps in our case the question would be – are we going to be as dedicated as Pak Oom with whatever the path that we choose? Through this story, we know that Pak Oom has the key that we seek all this time.
STUFF OF LEGENDS
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PA N T R Y 1 0 1
COOK IT LIKE YOU MEAN IT by KYLE GREGORIO
Poaching Poaching fish, gently cooking it in a liquid over low heat, is a classic French technique. Traditionally, the poaching liquid is a light broth, known as a court bouillon, and the finished fish comes out delicious, light, and flaky. Poaching is a good technique for cooking lean fish like tilapia, cod, sole, haddock, snapper or halibut, as well as fatty fish like salmon or trout. Poaching preserves moisture and adds flavor without adding fat
En Papillote Cooking in a packet—also known as cooking en papillote—is one of those rare techniques that’s flashy enough to be done at fancy restaurants and works beautifully at home, too. The basic method involves wrapping food in individual parchment or foil packets and baking them in a hot oven. The flavors inside mingle and intensify as the food cooks in its own steam. The method is incredibly easy—plus, there’s the whole fun factor of serving something that’s all wrapped up like a surprise.
Grilling How many of you are afraid to grill fish? Well, you’re missing out if you’ve never tried fish fresh off the barbecue. Thick steaks, such as tuna, swordfish, mahi-mahi and salmon fare well on a grill. Tender fillets like sole, catfish, flounder and tilapia don’t do as well on a grill, because they tend to break up and fall through the grate. You can grill more fragile fish in a foil packet or using a wire fish basket. Whether using gas, charcoal, electric or grill pans, there’s a secret to grilling fish: Get your grill as hot as you can make it. You want to sear the fish as soon as it hits the grate. This seals in the juices and immediately firms the flesh; it’s less likely to stick to the grate and it’s easier to flip.
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PA N T R Y 1 0 1
People avoid cooking fish for lots of reasons, including the irrational fear that it will stink up the house. But the main reason people don’t cook fish is because they don’t know how. A fillet of fish, unlike a piece of meat, is delicate. But that doesn’t mean it’s not doable. Here are some cooking tips that may help you in your next dish.
Frying Whether picking them up from the market or cooking up your very own catch, learning how to fry fish is a great skill for any cook. The toughest thing about frying fish is timing so you don’t overcook this delicate, delectable food. Fish fries up fast, so having all of the food you’re serving with it ready in advance is a smart move. With so many kinds of fish available, what makes the best fish to fry? That honor goes to the lean fish of the river and sea: trout, striped bass, snapper, tilapia, perch, Dover sole and cod. Generally, if the flesh is white, that’s a good indicator that it makes a good fish for the pan.
Baking Fish have flaky, delicate flesh that tastes best when it’s prepared with a little care. Baking fish enables you to control the cooking temperature and limit how much you handle the fish, preventing it from getting overcooked or falling apart. Read on for three delicious methods for baked fish: Low and Slow Baked Salmon, Crispy Parmesan Tilapia and Whole Baked Fish.
Steaming If you like fish, but don’t like all the fat and calories that come with a butter or olive oil sauce, consider investing in a steamer. Steamed fish has fewer calories and less fat than fish cooked in butter. Steamed fish is a good source of low-calorie protein, which is especially important to dieters, since protein helps keep your appetite under control.
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W H AT C H E F E AT S
Having been away from Fukuoka for so long doesn’t mean that the love for his hometown fare can be forgotten easily. Among the overflowing varieties of Japanese cuisine, Chef Tomohiko Omori has a soft spot for this one amongst all.
P
Peace and serenity are felt thanks to the pristine surroundings that I felt when entering Miyama at Hotel Borobudur Jakarta. The natural light gives away the energy for the patrons and yet there’s calm in the air at the same time. I feel at home right away. The menu is a well-versed one, naturally, but I cannot take my eyes off one special menu that I will always seek in any given Japanese restaurant here or anywhere during my travels. It’s the Kyushu-specialty unagi Yanagawa. While it’s not uncommon but rarely does a restaurant deliver it perfectly, or subjectively, much to my liking. Miyama is among the rarity, so to speak. And then the chef came - all clad in white and kopiah-like chef’s hat similar in any well-established Japanese restaurant. Chef Tomohiko Omori cheerfully greets us with a good command in English. He tells us a bit about his experiences as a chef in Australia and most recently, for a luxury liner for almost 12 years around Asia Pacific. He talks also about his hometown specialties and what he can present here in Miyama. That includes the unagi Yanagawa that we were having that day. “It originated from the small town of Yanagawa in Kyushu and if you love eating eels, it’s the perfect place to visit”, he says. As a proud citizen of Kyushu, Chef Omori has that strong sense of belonging when it comes to what he prefers to eat. “The bolder taste that we find in Fukuokan fares differs itself than other regions in Japan”, says the chef. Finally, we ask him about what he likes most. Chef Omori says, “Of all the Japanese food that I’ve encountered in my life, I found that any noodle-based dish as my favorite and especially, ramen.” With so many regions that differentiate each other with their ramen formula, of course he didn’t forget to be specific. “To be exact, it has to be the tonkotsu ramen – the specialty ramen from Hakata district in Fukuoka”, admits the chef proudly.
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TOMOHIKO OMORI by RIAN FARISA