W E T H E F O O D I E S INSIDE
JUL15 | volume 2, Issue 07 Rp. 55,000 | S$ 8.00
We Are A Family The Klabo Group Chef Tetsuya Wakuda The People Behind #WTFoodies
Be Naturally Beautiful “Being happy, healthy and beautiful is easy with Éternel Concept’s lifestyle treatments.” - Ina Thomas
É TERNEL CONCEP T Jalan Gunawarman No.16, 2nd floor Kebayoran Baru - Jakarta Selatan 021.722.9502 | 0821.1060.3082 info@eternelconcept.com
P U B L I S H E R ’ S N OT E
Publisher (TA)
Richmond Blando
Publisher Jed V. Doble Managing Editor
WE THE FOODIES! As early as last year, we had been toying with the idea of doing a non-food issue for The Foodie. We decided to have it this month since we are in the middle of Ramadan and thought it prudent not to put food on our cover and reduce our food photos. Hence the WTF issue! We The Foodies, that is, borrowing the now famous hashtag of our friends from the #WTFoodies collective on Instagram. Since The Foodie Magazine started, we have met so many people who are genuinely passionate about food. Real down-to-earth foodies. We conceived The Foodie to be a magazine for everyone who loves to eat, whatever their socio-economic background, wherever they are, and whatever food they like to eat. And thus we see articles from some of the best chefs and fancy restaurants, side by side with features on the best kaki lima (street food), warung (stall) and rumah makan (home-style restaurants) out there. And so with the past 18 issues under our belts, I dare say that we have proven to be loyal to our mission. Which brings me to our WTF issue. We present to you our list of notable foodies. We profile the team behind Potato Head, the PTT Family. We sit down and chat with founders Ronald Akili and Jason Gunawan, and the rest of their Jakarta team. Their successful venues in Jakarta, Bali and Singapore have the lifestyle crowd wanting more, thus later this year they will launch their first hotel, The Katamama in Bali. Exciting times ahead for the PTT Family. We also met the young Instagram sensations behind the WTFoodies collective and have now matched their faces to their names. We also feature the brilliant talent behind the Klabo Group which owns Nip & Dram, Ivy Catering and the new Monty’s on Jalan Senopati. The issue is full of many other profiles of interesting foodies. We invite you to check it out and let us know what you think. We also want to wish our Muslim readers a blessed Ramadan. Eid Mubarak!
Kyle Gregorio
Art Director
Juke Bachtiar
Photographer
Dennie Ramon
Contributors
Himawan Sutanto Sahiri Loing Rian Farisa Gupta Sitorus Primo Rizky Fellixandro Ruby Rafael Reyes
Administration
Boedy Astuti
Distribution
Mukti Pelupessy
Happy reading!
PT. NUSA BINTANG LESTARI Jl. Gunawarman no. 16 • Kebayoran Baru South Jakarta • Indonesia Tel: +62 21 2905 3959
JED V. DOBLE
www.thefoodiemag.com
W E T H E F O O D I E S INSIDE
We Are A Family The Klabo Group Chef Tetsuya Wakuda The People Behind #WTFoodies
JUL15 | volume 2, Issue 07 Rp. 55,000 | S$ 8.00
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The Foodie Magazine is published monthly by Bold Prints Publishing. Jalan Gunawarman No. 16, Jakarta, Indonesia. The Foodie Magazine and its logo are registered trademarks of Bold Prints Publishing. COPYRIGHT 2015. The Publisher reserves the right to accept or reject all editorial and advertising material. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or copied without the explicit written consent of the Publisher. Neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any error and omission, nor any action taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All rights reserved. ISSN: 2355-0198.
C O N T R I B U TO R S
THE GUEST LIST
HIMAWAN SUTANTO
SAHIRI LOING
Photographer
Writer
Himawan did portraiture for editorial, advertising and design clients for many years and also had a stint doing commercial photography. His love for food and travel brought him naturally to turn his lens on food and lifestyle which he thoroughly enjoys. He has recently been traveling to take photos for a global hotel chain. When not away shooting photos he tries to spend as much time with his newborn son.
Venturing outside his comfort zone of office life, Sahiri now spends his time working as a freelance writer for the fun part of life. His love of movies and dining out keeps him busy in his spare time.
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RIAN FARISA Writer
Once a foodie, always a foodie. Rian started his popular food blog gastronomy-aficionado. com in 2009. He has since become a culinary contributor for lifestyle and inflight magazines and newspapers. His job ranges from having intriguing conversations with celebrity chefs to memorizing the French names of Michelin-starred dishes he encounters. But at the end of the day he enjoys his scouring the city for good soul food with his beloved wife. Â
GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY Writers
This dynamic duo has always had a strong passion for food. They decided to enter the culinary industry in 2012 by launching their handcrafted gourmet ice cream brand, although none of them had prior culinary experience. Both have day jobs, Gupta works as country communications manager for the global leader in power and automation technologies, while Primo, heads Studio Geometry, an independent publishing house that focuses on creative culture.
Fellixandro Ruby Writer
Ruby calls himself a Food Storyteller, essentially that is what he loves: sharing stories about food, travel, culinary hits and misses. He says he has tasted Michelin Star restaurants, but his ultimate comfort is Cheese Martabak. See more of his food and travel experiences on his famous blog, www. wanderbites.com
TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
The Foodie magazine volume 2, Issue 07
Things That Make You Go Yum 12 We The Foodies!
Publisher’s Corner 14 Sweet History
The Foodie’s List 16 17 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34
The Exotic Middle East at DoubleTree Jakarta PTT Family Welcomes the Holy Month Bringing People Together Through Food Laughter Is His Best Ingredient Burning Bright Webber Launches in Asia NamNam Noodle Bar Plaza Indonesia TWG Launches Iced Teabags Gordon opens in Singapore The Inspiring New Duo Bite & Share
Cover Feature 36 46 52 56 62
We Are A Family We The Foodies! Bringing Indonesian Cuisine to The Black Forest The Not So New Kids On The Block Christofle: The Story
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TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
Confessions Of A Foodie 66 Respecting Food
A Foodie’s Life 70 The Family Man
Taking It To The Streets 74 Gudeg Bu Tinah 76 Nasi Ulam Pak Misjaya
Tried And Tested 80 Easy and Simple Pindang Serani Kakap
Stuff Of Legends 84 Tetsuya Wakuda - Taking Japanese Cuisine to New Heights
Pantry 101 88 Do You Know Your Knives?
What Chef Eats 90 Emmanuel Julio
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T H I N G S T H AT M A K E Y O U G O Y U M
Things That Make You Go Yum is monthly column featuring our choices of the best
by JED DOBLE
food photos on Instagram. If you think you have a great photo worth sharing with us, tag it with #TTMYGY and @TheFoodieMag
@audreyyustom
@bobobz
@ang _ sonny @eat.major
@captainruby
@devianavd
@eats _ jakarta
@enog_photography
@elizazachandra @filipusverdi
@famadisurya 12 | www. thefoodiemag.com
@foodirectory
T H I N G S T H AT M A K E Y O U G O Y U M This month, we collaborate with our friends at We The Foodies, #WTFoodies, to chose the photos for this month’s Things That Make You Go Yum. They have chosen some of the best photos on their Instagram feed to be featured here. Check them out!
@fransiskaangkouw
@koabal
@ivanhoetama @paulusmich
@krdnck
@ridwijaya
@sosavenue _ id
@stephaniesekar
@timothyfelix
@vionnaaustine
@wethefoodies
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P U B L I S H E R ’ S CO R N E R
Pride! … to be a foodie by RICHMOND BLANDO
Be honest. Have you ever closed your eyes in the middle of a crowded room, as you tasted and savored each and every nuanced flavor in your mouth?
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’m a foodie. And I’m proud to admit it! The term “foodie” went mainstream several years ago, spurred I’m sure by the countless new Food Network shows, food-related reality competitions and burgeoning celebrity chef culture. As of lately though, being a foodie has gotten a bad rap (not unlike foodie’s cousins, “gourmet” or “epicure”). It’s seen as elitist, snobby and downright ridiculous. Beyond an interest in food, foodies are curious. They want to know about ingredients, about preparation, about chefs, about food-culture. They’ll travel quite a distance, just to try a restaurant or a special dish. And they spend their time and energy on finding great food-related experiences. One rule of thumb to live by: Never take a foodie out to lunch. That is, unless you’re a gastronome yourself. Foodies are a particular set of people who love to eat, discuss and salivate over all things food. Let’s be honest, foodies aren’t always the best company for a down home barbeque or potluck dinner, but the best among them have impressive palates that can appreciate the simplest and most intricate flavors out there, whether it’s a juicy hamburger or a plate of foie gras. But how does one actually become a foodie. There is no school diploma required, you may or may not know how to cook, but the important thing is you respect the world of flavors around you. Nothing is actually disgusting, unless things are done incorrectly, like undercooking chicken or overcooking seafood or worse yet, under or over seasoning a dish.
But it is not because we like to eat (which we do) and not because we’re fascinated by food culture (which we are). But being a foodie is about living with your 5-senses on full blast at every single meal. Being a foodie means you’re fundamentally turned on by food. It can feel like a passionate love affair. Steamy. Sweet. Hot. It feels good to feel excited and inspired. I started out pretty late, I was not really adventurous in spending my money on set menus or drinking wine and noticing the nuances of flavors. In fact, I spent most of my time eating out in cheap eateries and cooking was not a hobby but a sense of survival. It wasn’t till my late 30’s where I met an Italian and he taught me how to uplift an ordinary spaghetti sauce by adding basil, chopped onions and a capful of vodka and using penne pasta instead of spaghetti. The flavor went from “meh” to “mmm” with just a few tweaks. Then came the time when I was able to afford steak dinners every now and then, the obsession with Bravo TV’s, “Top Chef”, and the constant up and down victories of trying to duplicate the meal I see on TV (internet was not as popular yet). The ultimate high, however is getting criticism from the greatest home cooks I know… my parents. It is hard to admit, I only fully appreciated their cooking skills when I started to cook myself. I used to laugh at the stories of how my dad used to “praise” her “soup” when she actually was attempting to cook a stew. She never gave up.
By the time I was able to appreciate flavors, my parents never cooked a bad meal in my life (might be an exaggerated statement, but that’s what I remember). So imagine my giddiness when they started to talk shop with me, and later on, started asking me advice about cooking techniques and restaurant suggestions. These days, I find it a welcome challenge when I am being asked to cook 3 dishes for a party, I can mix drinks, bake bread, make a decent pizza, whip a batch of sauces, dressing and even make ice cream without an ice cream maker. I know what sous vide is, I know that Pom Frite is just French Fries or that Belgian fries are just thicker cut of potatoes, I know that ordering anything slow cooked off the menu is a safe bet (though not a guarantee). I have watched enough shows to know the celebrity chefs though I do not know them all (which I am ok with). On top of that, I am constantly trying to perfect food that I grew up with like adobo, barbequed chicken and local bistek. I still close my eyes after the first bite of a well-seasoned, medium rare steak or when I take the first sip of a Tom Yam. People may find it weird, cute or annoying, I take comfort at the fact that they say the same thing about other passionate people. You see, being a foodie isn’t just about food. It’s about how the food, makes you feel. For us, it’s not just about satiating our hunger. On average, we only have 76,650 meals in our lifetime (assuming we live on average 70 years). In other words, it’s finite. Like life. So, choose wisely.
P U B L I S H E R ’ S CO R N E R
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F O O DI E L I S T S
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The Exotic Middle East at DoubleTree Jakarta by KYLE GREGORIO
Welcome the holy month of Ramadan this year in DoubleTree by Hilton Jakarta – Diponegoro in The Exotic Middle East theme.
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ndulge your taste buds with the selection of highlight menu created by their Executive Chef, Zulkarnain. Break your fasting with a selection of five best kormas from different counties and your preferred ta’jil. Start your Middle East culinary journey with the Cold Meze Platter, a platter of Hommos. Tabouleh, Babaganoush and pita bread. Chef Zul and his culinary team will tickle your senses with their Whole Fish Hara and Lamb Kofta for the main course. Try the authentic delicious dessert, Umn Ali and Basbosa, to end your excellent Middle East culinary journey. Enjoy the special Middle East sensation only this Ramadan month at OPEN Restaurant. OPEN Restaurant is an all-day venue featuring open kitchens, live cooking stations including Local, Asian and Western Pod as well as a variety of international cuisines. Enjoy the view of sparkling outdoor lagoon swimming pool in a light, airy atmosphere or one can always choose to eat al fresco on the outdoor deck. Private dining rooms are available for gatherings or business meetings. The contemporary DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Jakarta-Diponegoro is ideally located away from heavy traffic, yet close to Jakarta’s CBD, the Golden Triangle of Jakarta and many embassies and government offices. Shopping malls, markets, restaurants and leisure options are easily reachable and Cikini Train Station is a short distance away. Indulge in a spa treatment, energize in the 24-hour fitness center or swim in the large outdoor pool featuring an ‘island bar’, serving ice cream. A kids’ pool and club
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will keep the children entertained. Hold an event at this Jakarta hotel with a variety of flexible meeting spaces, including a divisible ballroom and 24-hour business center. DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel JakartaDiponegoro is centrally located in the heart
of Jakarta, close to the Golden Triangle of Jakarta and the city’s main commercial, shopping and entertainment hubs. Cikini Train Station is a short distance away, offering great connectivity throughout Jakarta and beyond.
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON JAKARTA – DIPONEGORO | Jalan Pegangsaan Timur No. 17, Jakarta | T: +62 21 3190 4433 www.JakartaDiponegoro.DoubleTree.com
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PTT Family Welcomes the Holy Month
With their new Ramadan Specials at Potato Head Garage, Potato Head and Three Buns, the PTT Family is set to welcome the Holy Month with great enthusiasm.
by KYLE GREGORIO
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n conjunction with the holy month of Ramadan, PTT Family has prepared set menus in all three of its establishments for those who are looking to break their fast with family and friends. POTATO HEAD GARAGE The award-winning steakhouse, Potato Head Garage, will be serving a gourmet set menu that has been especially crafted by its executive chef Hikaru Take and patisserie chef Yoko Kato for the Ramadan. From 22 June to 11 July from 6PM-8:30PM, Potato Head Garage will be serving this set menu which begins with its innovative interpretation of Takjil that is served four ways, followed by a hearty serving of 200gram of Top Striploin, and ends with the fine, delicate assortment of Japanese mignardises, including the Green tea roll cake, Hojichu pudding, and Mochi 3-ways, guaranteed to satisfy your taste buds and lift your spirits.
POTATO HEAD GARAGE SCBD Lot 14, Jalan Jend. Sudirman Kav. 52 – 53 Jakarta T +62 21 5797 3330 www.pttgarage.com Facebook & Instagram: pttheadgarage
POTATO HEAD Located at the heart of Jakarta’s SCBD, Potato Head also welcomes the month of Ramadan with its sumptuous menu made with the finest local and seasonal produce, such as its Barramundi roasted en papilotte with a fresh vegetable selection, sourced from Indonesia’s own abundant Archipelago. The Ramadan special will be available from 18 June to 16 July from 5pm-close. POTATO HEAD Pacific Place Mall G 51A SCBD Jalan Jend. Sudirman Kav. 52-53, Jakarta T: +62 21 5797 3322
THREE BUNS Last but not least, Jakarta’s pioneering neighborhood burger joint, Three Buns, is also celebrating the fasting month of Ramadan with its own special menu, consisting of its delicious gourmet bites that starts with the special Sticky Toffee Tajil, followed by a selection of its most loved handmade artisanal burgers—Baby Huey, Street Truff or Honky-Tonk, and ends generously with two servings of a drink of your own choice of Classic Tea, Lemon Tea or Lemongrass Tea. Three Buns’ Ramadan special set menu is available from 18 June to 18 July from 6-7 PM. THREE BUNS Jalan Senopati Raya No. 90, Jakarta T: +62 21 2930 7780 www.threebuns.com Facebook: threebuns
ABOUT PTT FAMILY The PTT Family is a hospitality and lifestyle company that currently runs operations in Jakarta, Bali and Singapore and has an ambitious and exciting expansion plan that is both international and domestic. PTT Family’s original concepts and ideas drive the look and feel of our projects, while our professionalism in hospitality management delivers well-run operations. Through our set of core values, hospitality management expertise, and original concepts and ideas that allow us to foster collaborations with both local and international groups from the realm of architecture, design, music, fashion, art and craftsmanship; we have established some of the most revered projects in the world. The Group currently owns Potato Head, Potato Head Garage and Three Buns in Jakarta as well as Potato Head Beach Club in Bali and Potato Head Folks in Singapore.
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Bringing People Together Through Food by GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY photograpgs by UBUD FOOD FESTIVAL: MATT OLDFIELD AND ANGGARA MAHENDRA
We were delighted to join foodies, culinary enthusiasts, chefs and experts from around Indonesia and the world at the inaugural Ubud Food Festival last June 5-7.
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he first Ubud Food Festival was a rousing success. Over 6,500 local and foreign visitors descended on Bali’s culinary capital for the event. The success could also be seen on the faces of the visitors who shuffled from one venue to another to attend panel discussions, masterclasses, cooking demonstrations, food tours, film screenings, workshops, food tastings and other special events. Organized by the same people who bring the annual Ubud Writers & Readers Festival, the festival had numerous programs which were held at a number of supporting venues, including Indus Restaurant, Taman Baca, Mozaic, The Elephant, Casa Luna, Bisma Eight, Bridges, Arma Resort, Fivelements, Seniman Coffe Studio, Alila Ubud and others. Our personal highlights included seeing renowned chefs gathering together to do masterclasses and cooking demos and taking turns watching each other to learn and have fun. You may think that only Indonesian chefs know best about how to use and mix different Indonesian traditional spices, but you had to see how Penelope Williams from Bali Asli mixed and ground spices by hand to make Tipat Cantok (traditional Balinese vegetable dish that is similar to gado-gado or ketoprak). We were really lucky that we got the chance to learn to cook like a celebrity chef! We learned from Bara Pattiradjawane himself how to make authentic Ambonese dishes such as Kuah Kuning (turmeric braised fish with almonds), while Chef Janice Wong, of the 2am:dessertbar in Singapore - twice voted Asia’s Best Pastry Chef by the S.Pellegrino Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants shared her secrets on how to make the most delectable and appealing desserts.
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In addition to these names, we also had the chance to meet and learn from the chefs of Ubud’s bursting food scene, including the Mozaic’s Chris Salans, Locavore’s Eelke Plasmeijer, Hujan Locale’s Will Meyrick, Room4Dessert’s Will Goldfarb and Mandif Warokka of Blanco Par Mandif, as well famous local restaurants Bridges and Fivelements. And if that was not enough, let us tell you that we got to see amazing regional chefs right before our eyes! The incomperable Chef Wan from Malaysia and Chefs Dave Pynt and Ryan Clift of Singapore, #30 and #36 respectively, on the Asia’s 50 Best list. Another highlight for us was to witness the much-anticipated Rendang Cook-off between Indonesia’s cult food hero Rahung Nasution and Chef Wan, which drew a full house. Ultimately, Rahung was judged the winner by popular vote, which didn’t make Chef Wan particularly happy, but by the end of the event everyone was in stitches laughing and having a great time. Guests also flocked to the program’s other events at Taman Baca, including the Food Forum series delving into food issues such as Bali’s rice crisis, GMO foods and medicinal eating. William Wongso and Bondan Winarno, two of Indonesia’s highly respected culinary gurus, contributed to the forum by sharing their knowledge about the Indonesian culinary scene. Not far from Taman Baca, a small food market was held, where guests could taste and enjoy a wide range of foods and beverages contributed by a number of local bistros and restaurants. At the courtyard, live music and large cushions were prepared for us as we enjoyed various Balinese cuisines
and snacks. Right next to the entrance, there was a small bar with a screen that plays films in culinary themes, such as Filosofi Kopi and Tabula Rasa. UFF Founder and Director Janet DeNeefe said she had been overwhelmed by the positive energy and excitement from both chefs and Festival-goers alike. “Food really is a universal language, it brings people together from all corners of the world,” she said. “Never have I seen so many smiling faces together in one place; food really must be the secret ingredient to a happy and fulfilling life!” On the last day of the festival, one event which we thoroughly enjoyed was the Mad Hatters Tea Party hosted by Chef Janice Wong, where she served her specialty macarons, churros and flavored marshmallows. “We have definitely taken inspiration from Ubud’s gems,” Janice reflected. “We came to the Ubud Food Festival without really knowing what we were going to prepare,” she said. “That’s part of the challenge; coming to a new culinary landscape and using local ingredients to get creative with your work.” Reflecting on the UFF’s mission to promote Indonesia as a leading food destination, DeNeefe said she believes the culinary landscape of Indonesian cuisine will grow and evolve due to the pure enthusiasm of the people. “With more than half of our speaker line-up and audiences constituted by Indonesian nationals, it’s evident just how much Indonesians love good food,” she said. “We’re so honoured to be a part of that, and help enrich the Indonesian food scene both at home and overseas for many years to come.”
UBUD FOOD FESTIVAL | www.ubudfoodfestival.com | IG: @ubudfoodfestical
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Laughter Is His Best Ingredient
One encoutner at the Ubud Food Festival that left us in stitches was our interview with the one and only, Chef Wan.
by GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY photograpgs by PRIMO RIZKY AND UBUD FOOD FESTIVAL
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or those who like to watch food and lifestyle TV channels, you must be familiar with this witty and entertaining guy. Redzuawan Ismail, or popularly known as Chef Wan, is an iconic figure in the Malaysian culinary world. He was granted the royal title Datuk for his dedication and commitment in bringing Malaysian culinary heritage to the world stage. We were lucky to get the chance to talk with him during the Ubud Food Festival last month. We hope you enjoy our interview which was full of nonstop laughter. You have been in the industry for quite a long time, how do you feel about the differences in the culinary scene in the past and now? Yes, 27 years. A bit too long! Hahaha. Back in Malaysia, they said I revolutionized “celebrity chef” thing in the whole industry because there were not so many TV chefs in the world who showcase the cuisine of their home country. But these days you see just about everything, of course with the MasterChef craze, it also inspires young children to understand more about food. Today, the evolution of food is always about immigration of human from one place to another. We have gone everywhere like nomads, stay at one particular place, and adapt different cuisines from countries we visited before. That is why you see today that a lot of the cities are getting more cosmopolitan therefore more and more restaurants are opening up to accommodate the need for the immigrants. It is very different from what we had decades before. What do you think about this trend where so many people learn to cook, and call themselves chefs? Yes, in Malaysia we also face the same situation. People are claiming to be the expert on this and that. Just like today when you see reality TV cooking shows bringing all these young talents coming out and in overnight they have huge success. It
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is very sad. In my generation, you need to go to professional chef school. I realized that today more and more young people become famous for just an easy thing such as competing in MasterChef. I don’t even call myself a masterchef. For me, you need to work hard and rise through the ranks; how can you learn to run before you learn to crawl. In that context, I feel that the society has given wrong impression to younger generation through these kind of shows. It is also sad that sponsors endorse these TV chefs who come out overnight from cooking reality shows and turned them into superstars. My God, it took me 15 years to have my first endorsement. Hahaha! And today they also have released cookbooks. What gives them authority to publish cookbooks? The TV show? It takes years for you to be able to publish a cookbook. Culinary is a skill work. If you want to become known in this field; you got to have experience, travel the world, and understand the rules of everything. In 2009 you won Best Celebrity Television Chef of the Gourmand World Cookbook Award. What is the secret to your success? Television is entertainment. There are plenty of fantastic cooks, plenty of great chefs –but not every chef are made for television. When you watch a television cooking show it is not just about cooking, you also need to have entertainment. You need a person with great personality, a person who is well-traveled (because you connect one culture to another), and you also need a person who has great communication skills. I think having that alone is not enough. Plus you also need to have great cooking skills and it takes years to build these skills. As a TV chef, you need to put elements of culture, history, comedy, and many others. To be in that shoes is not easy. Everyone can be, but to excel is a hard work. My advice is to learn and keep on
learning because knowledge is power. With knowledge you become more powerful. Many people have a passion for food. But how can we be like you? When you have passion, you need to ask yourself what exactly you want to do. If you want to go as TV chef, you need personality, you need to be well-educated, you need to have good communication skills and charisma. If you don’t have that, then work on it. You might want to work for a few years before going into television then you know what you are talking about because you have the credentials. To me that is our problem. Young generation must understand the values. You want to out there, you gotta have the substance and do it right. Because cooking is understanding the fundamental skills of culinary arts –from the beginning of ingredients, the way you apply, the right cooking techniques, and to marry all the spices and herbs together and achieve overall balanced taste. After all these years in the culinary industry, what other things do you want to pursue? I want to start an Asian Culinary Academy in Malaysia because I feel most chefs learn Western food too much and do not really deepen their knowledge in Asian cuisine. The thing is, when culinary students graduate most of them work in Asian kitchens but what they learned at school is all the western techniques and recipes –that is not applicable. Many of them also do not know how to cook Asian food properly. Therefore, I think it is important to have such education institution. Last question, what is food to you? Food to me has always been about connecting to people. In food we find love, friendship, peace, and also respect. It is food that connects people. It is important for us to carry this message to the world for what food is.
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Burning Bright by GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY
Chef David Pynt of Burnt Ends in Singapore made his way to Bali for the Ubud Food Festival and wowed the festival-goers with his barbecue skills. We got a chance to sit down with him before things heated up.
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ave Pynt is the tall bearded main protagonist behind the success of Burnt Ends in Singapore to claim the 30th spot on this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. His passion for barbecue and grilled meat is clearly reflected in the food that they serve. His long story began in his childhood. Growing up in Australia, Dave had many barbecuing activities at his house. His dad even set up their own woodfire barbecue pit in the backyard of his childhood home. He brought along these wonderful memories and experience as he embarked on his own culinary journey as a professional chef. While Dave lived in in Spain, he worked at a restaurant called Asador Etxebarri, where he met barbecue master Victor Arguinzoniz, who eventually agreed to become his mentor for five months. It was Arguinzoniz who inspired Dave to recreate all the barbecue experiences inside the restaurant and present the grilled meat as high end cuisine, something that was totally contrary to Dave’s perceptions of what barbecue was, just home cooking. Having learned many things from Arguinzoniz, he tried his luck and opened a pop-up barbecue venue in London, which he called Burnt Enz. This was where Burnt Ends started. Dave says that what he likes most about barbecue is the flavor and taste that comes from the process. According to him: “grilled meat has that unique taste that cannot be obtained by cooking with gas,
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electricity, or even charcoal.” He explained that when we cook with wood, there are certain essential oils that comes out from the wood, which is critical for imparting that special flavor. He shares that some woods are exceptionally good for barbecue, especially hardwood, because they have high density so they burn hotter and longer. Each wood also gives a slightly distinct flavor. You can also use from citrus or apple wood and also grapevines. You can also opt for fennel fronds or dried twigs which often gives strong aroma. But beware, avoid stuff like pine or juniper because they give obnoxious smoke to your cooking. As Dave explained about all these things regarding barbecue, his eyes shone with passion, especially when it came to the part where he explained numerous techniques for barbecuing. He shares that he had learned so many techniques for cooking with wood after he decided to focus on barbecue. For instance, some of the most common techniques used in America are the low heat and slow American-style smoker, pit barbeque, smokehouses –cold smokehouses, hot smokehouses, and parilla from South America, where you build an open fire and the grilling rack lean towards the fire. Then there is the European style of barbecue where the elevation grill has direct fire underneath. There is also the Hangi which is a traditional New Zealand Maori method of cooking using heated rocks buried in a pit oven. However, Dave says that he uses only elevation grill and woodfire
oven at Burnt Ends, where he balances quite few techniques using those two. For the “Fire & Ice” dining event that he hosted during the recent Ubud Food Festival, Dave said he did not prepare the menu in detail, instead he was just sitting down at the venue for about half an hour before our interview and tried to figure out the menu for the event. Still he ensured that all Burnt Ends’ signature dishes are going to be presented for the event. Dave said he often finds himself in a situations where his plans end up as just plan due to the produce or techniques – that is why he chooses to cook impromptu. For Dave, the biggest challenge in preparing barbecue meals for special occasions outside his restaurant, such as the one in Ubud. There he cooked on fire with someone else’s setup - not only because the setup was different, but also because different types of woods are used. At Burnt Ends, they do not cook for large numbers of people because they just serve 30 people at one time. This is how he makes sure that everything is streamlined. Meanwhile, at pop-up barbecue events, he gets to cook with two large barbecue pits and serve foods for around 40 people. He admits that cooking for a large number all at once is challenging because he needs a lot of space and stable heat. However, Dave says he never takes cooking challenges too seriously, because to him, what matters the most if that people enjoy the food and appreciate his cooking.
F O O DI E L I S T S
DAVID PYNT | Burnt Ends, 20 Teck Lim Road, Singapore 088391 | T: +65 6224 3933 www.burntends.com.sg | Instagram: @burntends _ sg
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F O O DI E L I S T S
06
Webber Launches in Asia by RAFAEL REYES photograpgs by WEBBER ASIA
Webber recently launched its full range of appliances in Jakarta.
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ndonesian kitchens are evolving. Open kitchen concepts, easy to use yet stylish appliances and food-focused home entertaining are helping to reshape our kitchen culture. Webber aims to offer a complete kitchen and home entertainment solution to the modern Indonesian home. Inspired by the German’s values of precision, quality and functionality, Webber appliances are crafted to offer the most enjoyable culinary experiences. Webber incorporates modern advanced technology, premium quality elements with notable industrial design influences into its full range of appliances including Hoods, Hobs, Ovens, Outdoor Cooking Systems, Wine Cellars, Water Dispensers, Coffee Capsule Machines and Retro Fridges and Free Standing Cooking under its sub-brand, Webber by Bompani. “Webber’s range of appliances are developed in collaboration with professional chefs and culinary specialists such as Chef Christian Bruhns from Germany and William Wongso from Indonesia. Building upon our expertise in the kitchen appliance and food & beverage industries, combined with our passion for great design, Webber appliances are the embodiments of perfect form and functionality – practical to use and beautiful to look at! We also want to make sure that although Webber appliances are designed in Germany, they are also adapted to Asian cooking! ” says Serene
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Kwok, General Manager of Webber Asia Pte Ltd, the regional head office of Webber International GmbH. Webber Asia is supporting the launch of its kitchen brand in Indonesia with the opening of the flagship Webber Gallery on at the Jakarta Design Centre. The Webber Gallery will showcase the full range of products for the kitchen, bar and pantry; as well as incorporate a Javanegra Coffee Boutique which will allow consumers to experience and enjoy Javanegra Capsules Coffee prepared on the Webber Coffee Capsules Machines. Webber Shop-in-Shop Concept showcases are already available in major Best Denki stores and Rumah Ku outlets in Jakarta and in all Hartono stores and appointed retailers in Surabaya. “We are proud to be appointed the exclusive distributor of Webber Kitchen Appliances in Indonesia. Webber appliances are equipped with state of the art cooking technology and sleek designs, which we believe will be well received by the modern home owners and developers in Indonesia. In fact, Webber appliances are already fitted in the latest premium residential projects such as Menteng 37 and The Heritage!” says Dennis Rahardja, Executive Director of PT Panca Anugrah Wisesa, exclusive distributor of Webber in Indonesia.
F O O DI E L I S T S
WEBBER GALLERY | Jakarta Design Centre, 2nd floor, Jalan. Gatot Subroto Kav 53. Jakarta | T: +62 21 5367 7702 Instagram: @webberasia
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F O O DI E L I S T S
07
NAMNAM NOODLE BAR by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA
Vietnamese cuisine is on the rise again. After we have reached the familiar terrain with Vietnamese street food for several years now, it is high time for someone to up the ante. Chef Nam Quoc Nguyen quickly rose to the occasion by accepting the challenge with the opening of NamNam Noodle Bar in Jakarta.
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hen NamNam Noodle Bar was introduced for the first time in 2012, Chef Nam Quoc Nguyen and the restaurant quickly became the idol of the Singaporean crowd. By introducing the trendier version of Hanoistyle pho and banh mi, the chef has set up a new standard for Vietnamese cuisine in Southeast Asia. The year of 2015 is the time for Indonesia. NamNam Noodle Bar initiated its conquest with a beautiful outlet in Pantai Indah Kapuk and now in Plaza Indonesia. The Foodie Magazine wastes no time in meeting the man himself and ask him about the visionary breakthrough in Vietnamese cuisine that he brought with NamNam. Chef Nam remembers his roots very well. From the cuisine, you can sense the authenticity of the flavors and the reason for choosing Hanoi-style pho instead of the rich-in-herbs Saigonese style was quite apparent. He’s a traditionalist as well as an open-minded chef who learns the way of the market. “With NamNam, I wanted to introduce Vietnamese street food in upper class establishments. That’s why it has to be both soulful and also playful”, he says. He emphasizes also the need to adapt and understand the taste buds of the Indonesian people. “That’s why I personally oversaw the creation of our own bakso and sambal. I know Indonesians love stronger flavor and that’s why we are putting the effort to make our dishes memorable for the crowd here”, explains the chef. He’s also noting that their commitment of not using any MSG at all proved to be challenging at first and NamNam successfully created the desirable result in the end. While originality is the backbone of NamNam Noodle Bar, Chef Nam also
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F O O DI E L I S T S prepared many months ahead to plant the seeds and stems of Vietnamese native herbs as the authentic addition to the traditional pho. For dry spices and sauces, he imports them directly from Vietnam in large containers. In addition to that, he likes to take advantage of the freshest ingredients available in the market. “Our kampong chicken pho has a complete offering from soft boiled egg, sliced chicken, gizzard, and also the immature egg”, says Chef Nam. “For the banh mi, I even created a version using catfish. Usually in Vietnam, people are only using canned fish”, he adds by saying that he might even be using lamb in the future for the menu. Thanks to the bountiful availability of ingredients and the diversity of flavor in Indonesia, Chef Nam happily put more effort in devising more dishes for NamNam here. “From learning how to make a good bakso from a 75-year-old man who has been selling meatballs for 60 years, creating a fiery sambal that suits the Indonesian taste buds, and also making the best out of so many quality ingredients available here; I am confident that we will open more NamNam in Jakarta soon”, says the chef surely. The crowd hit NamNam non-stop as we’re speaking. NamNam Noodle Bar presents not only the rich selections in pho and banh mi, Chef Nam also adds more color from the appetizers, dry noodles, desserts, and also good old Vietnamese coffee. With his professional background as a chef and proven restaurateur, Chef Nam is currently readying himself to challenge the world with his proud and creative take in Vietnamese food.
NAMNAM NOODLE BAR PLAZA INDONESIA | Plaza Indonesia, Basement Floor, Jakarta Ruko Crown Golf Blok D no. 21-23, Pantai Indah Kapuk, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2942 4884 (Pantai Indah Kapuk)
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F O O DI E L I S T S
08
TWG Launches Iced Teabags
Just in time for summer, TWG Tea launches the world’s most luxurious collection of teabags especially crafted for the preparation of iced teas.
by RAFAEL REYES photographs by TWG TEA
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WG Tea continues to be a trendsetting purveyor of exquisite teas, continuously shaping the fashion of tea appreciation by creating an extraordinary iced tea collection. The collection comes in fifteen varieties of whole tea leaves carefully proportioned and packaged for the expert preparation of delicious TWG iced teas. Luxuriously handcrafted with natural materials, every TWG Tea Iced Teabag contains the exact same handpicked, whole leaf teas retailed loose at TWG Tea Boutiques. The teabags are entirely hand sewn and are free from metal staples and glue which are detrimental to the quality and flavor of the tea. Made of light, transparent silk and round in shape, reminiscent of the summer sun, TWG Iced Teabags are all hand- sewn and beautifully placed in TWG Tea packaging embossed with the name of the tea in gold lettering. Each of the fifteen keepsake gift boxes enclose seven teabags, each containing 7.5 grams of tea perfect for a large carafe of iced tea. TWG Tea has spared no expense in creating the ultimate iced teabag, demonstrating its deep-rooted commitment to quality and attention to detail. This collection includes TWG Tea classics from such as the French Earl Grey, Eternal Summer Tea, Moroccan Mint Tea and Darjeeling, as well as TWG Tea exclusive blends such as Sweet France Tea, Pink Flamingo Tea and Cocktail Hour Tea. Whether you are craving something sweet or in the mood for something light and tangy, TWG Tea’s Iced Teabag collection has carefully handpicked it all in this collection. To present your lovely iced teas, TWG Tea presents the perfect accompaniment an Iced Tea Carafe series available in eight vibrant colors. They are made of a very light Plexiglas and are the perfect accessory to serve a refreshing glass of iced tea to delight and tantalize the senses of teadrinkers everywhere. Experience the luxury of choice with the new TWG Iced Teabag Collection, available at TWG Tea Boutiques in Plaza Senayan and Pacific Place.
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HOW TO SERVE TWG TEABAGS Preparation of 1 litre of iced tea For a rich, intense and flavourful beverage: • Place 1 teabag into a teapot. • Add 1/2 litre of pure, simmering water. • Steep for about 5 minutes. • Remove teabag and pour into glasses filled to the brim with large ice cubes.
For a more delicately infused beverage: • Place 1 teabag into a glass pitcher. • Add 1 litre of pure water at room temperature. • Refrigerate for about 12 hours. • Stir and remove the teabag before serving. Enjoy this iced tea as it is or sweetened to taste with sugar syrup.
F O O DI E L I S T S
TWG TEA SALON & BOUTIQUE | Pacific Place, Level 1, SCBD, Jalan Jend. Sudirman Kav 52-53, Jakarta | T: +62 21 5797 3272
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F O O DI E L I S T S
09
Gordon opens in Singapore by RAFAEL REYES photographs by BREAD STREET KITCHEN AND MARINA BAY SANDS
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Bread Street Kitchen, by renowned chef, restaurateur, TV personality and author Gordon Ramsay has opened at Marina Bay Sands.
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nown in Asia mostly through his Hells Kitchen and MasterChef reality cooking shows, Gordon Ramsay is now a bit closer with the opening of his second Asian outpost in Singapore, Bread Street Kitchen. The highly anticipated restaurant and bar offers classic British European fare in a lively and bustling space facing the spectacular waterfront. Located at the south promenade of The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, the restaurant features an extensive menu that showcases British favorites reinvented by the multiMichelin starred chef at the brand’s London flagship. “I’m excited to be part of the Marina Bay Sands family and in Singapore where people are so passionate about food. Bread Street Kitchen is a mix of vintage and modern with an ever-changing menu, dishes inspired by local ingredients, and a beautiful view of the waterfront and city skyline!” announced Gordon Ramsay. Led by Executive Chef Sabrina Stillhart, Bread Street Kitchen at Marina Bay Sands will stay true to its London concept, tapping on British artisanal products and seasonal fare, but will also work with local ingredients to deliver a globally inspired menu. Sabrina, who has been with the Gordon Ramsay Group for almost a decade, hails from the opening team of Bread Street Kitchen, London. The stellar team is also helmed by General Manager John Quetier, who has more than 16 years of experience in several outstanding restaurants including L‘Atelier de Joel Robuchon in London, Vue de monde by Shannon Bennett in Melbourne and maze by the Gordon Ramsay Group. Bread Street Kitchen’s signature dishes include Pork Belly, Shepherd’s Pie and Roasted Veal Carpaccio, as well as the BSK Burger, with melted Monterey Jack cheese and spicy sriracha mayo in a brioche bun. Starters are similarly distinctive – headlined by King Crab Cocktail with apple and pink peppercorn and Tamarind Spiced Chicken Wings, Salmon Ceviche with ruby grapefruit and Seared Scallops with carrot puree, treacle bacon and celery cress as well as Potted salt beef brisket, grain mustard, piccalilli, buckwheat crackers. From the grill section, savour dishes
such as Dingley Dell Pork Chop, Roasted Baby Chicken with chimichurri and burnt lemon, as well as the hearty Irish Rib-Eye 28 days aged. Chips as well as Red onion and carrots coleslaw serve as delicious sides to complement the mains. Sweet delights includes classic British desserts such as Chocolate fondant with salted caramel and mint chocolate chip ice cream, Bread and butter pudding, sultanas, cinnamon and Banana sticky toffee pudding, muscovado caramel, clotted cream. The “interactive” bar area features a communal table and allows for mixologists to offer a lively drinking experience, perfect for an after-work catch up, serving both classic and innovative cocktails with fresh ingredients and a selection of world wines. At the basement level of the restaurant, diners can step into a more intimate environment of private dining or peek into the live and dynamic kitchen action over drinks and quick bites. Designed by Wilson Associates’ Blueplate Studios, the two-storey restaurant and bar stays true to the brand’s East London industrial roots. However, the design team re-invented certain brand elements to create a distinct sense of place, starting with the floors and ceilings. The black and white tiled floors are transformed into abstracted geometric patterns that add a quirky playfulness to the venue and help distinguish the different dining environments. The ceilings on the ground level – resembling a woven orange checkered board - bring warmth and dimension to the glass enclosure. The overall design feel is an eclectic industrial collection of marble, bronze, mixed timbers, and leather that creates an intimate, bespoke dining experience for a variety of guests. Tamir Shanel, Vice President of Food & Beverage of Marina Bay Sands said, “Bread Street Kitchen by Gordon Ramsay is our latest celebrity chef restaurant and we are excited to welcome this new venue to our family of iconic chefs and outstanding dining experiences. With an attractive location that offers a waterfront dining experience, along with a strong team helming the restaurant, Bread Street Kitchen is set to enhance the celebrity chef programme at Marina Bay Sands.”
F O O DI E L I S T S
MARINA BAY SANDS | 10 Bayfront Avenue, Singapore 018956 | T: +65 6688 8868 www.MarinaBaySands.com | Facebook: Marina Bay Sands | Twitter: @marinabaysands
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F O O DI E L I S T S
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THE INSPIRING NEW DUO by KYLE GREGORIO photographs by THE WESTIN RESORT NUSA DUA, BALI
Seasonal Tastes and Velada Tapas Bar & Kitchen will be launched just in time for the peak summer season to entice guests with innovative food, drinks and live jazz entertainment.
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he Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali is excited to launch two new dining venues just in time for the holiday summer season. Both have been designed to entice guests with innovative food, drinks and live jazz entertainment in settings that are beyond the rest. With its contemporary look and flexible approach to serving seriously good food, Seasonal Tastes is signature to the Westin brand. This inviting space promises to satisfy appetites with an open kitchen concept that incorporates live cooking stations and a juice bar to support an interactive food display. Seasonal Tastes has creative seating options for up to 225 guests in a thoughtfully planned environment overlooking a lagoon waterway edged by tropical greenery. There is a designated area
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for business groups to dine together as well as an eating zone just for kids. Chef Mauro Bellodi and his attentive team of culinary experts cook Delicious Asian, Western, Indian and Mediterranean cuisine to order at Seasonal Tastes. With a distinct focus on quality and flavor, the menu is driven by the availability of fresh ingredients. Seasonal Tastes is continuing the resort’s tradition of regular themed dinners featuring live entertainment such as live music and cultural performances. This program is highlighted by an evening of Asian Delights and Meet the Meats and our sensational Saturday Seafood Barbecue. Meanwhile, Velada Tapas Bar & Kitchen provides a vibrant Jazz entertainment and dining experience where guests can savor drinks and authentic bites. Bartenders are
on hand serving up signature margaritas and refreshing fruit-infused sangrias to get the party started. A great selection of hot and cold Spanish tapas is available from an open-style kitchen. Velada Tapas Bar & Kitchen is a place to mingle with likeminded people and really make a night of it whilst listening to uplifting music. “Following the overwhelming success of Prego, these new venues both aim to elevate wining and dining experiences at the resort. Seasonal Tastes in particular is a Westin initiative inspired by healthy world cuisine and complements our brand philosophy of preserving wellness in travel. I am confident that we have all food preferences and dietary needs now covered,” says Mr. Bipan Kapur, Managing Director of The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali.
F O O DI E L I S T S
The Westin Resort Nusa Dua, Bali | Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua, BTDC Lot N-3, Bali | T: +62 361 771906 www.westin.com/bali | Facebook: westinbali | Twitter: @westinbali
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F O O DI E L I S T S
What does food mean for most of us? An important supply of nutrition? An instrument of satisfaction? Well, these kids from Bandung shows us that a meal can go beyond that.
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Bite & Share by FELLEXANDRO RUBY photograpgs by BITE & SHARE
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’ve been mentoring these kids from Bandung, who have a big heart to help those in need. Its close to my heart too as it revolves around food. Their idea is simple: for every three (3) sandwichs they sell, they will use the money to donate one (1) full meal package for an orphan. Their goal is to give 1,000 packages per month regularly to the kids so that their nutritional intake improves. We spoke with Monika, one of the co-founders of Bite & Share, about their social business initiative based on this buy-a-meal-for-a-meal model. The Foodie Magazine (TFM): Why did you start Bite & Share? Monika (M): My partner Irfan and I have been talking about doing something in F&B for a while. When we discovered Ideafest, we felt that it is a great platform to move our ideas into action. At the same time, we had an uncomfortable discovery that more than 40% of the kids in orphanages were under nourished. It is a pity that the government only gives Rp 3,000 per child per day to subsidize their food. We believe that these children have the same role as any child for Indonesia’s future and giving them enough nutrition is a way to start ensuring that their future is better. TFM: Why is it important for you to do this now? Being a student and all? M: We believe that starting a business and helping those in need can begin anytime. However, we see that usually the longer we postpone, the less likely it will happen. So we decided that we will take the risk now. At this stage even if we fail, there’s no regret, there’ll only be learning.
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TFM: Was there a particular moment that moved you? M: I come from a modest family. We don’t have much and I can say that we are close to be living in poverty. I really wish that I can help my family. One day, through them, I realized that God has given me the talents and tools that I need. I can cook, I make friends easily and I learn really fast. It was then and there that I start dreaming of having my own business where I can use my talents as a medium to help others in need. Bite & Share is that little step of faith toward achieving that dream. TFM: How does Bite & Share work? M: Its very simple actually. We run food trucks. We will sell sandwiched and also use the truck as a campaign / advertising tool for brands. Our sandwiches are priced less than Rp 20.000 because we want everyone to be able to afford taking part in this. For every three (3) sandwiches we sell, we will give one (1) complete meal (fruit, protein, vegetables, rice, milk) for a child in our partner orphanage. We aim to give as much as 1,000 meals every month. TFM: How can people take part in this movement?
M: Everyone can easily take part in our social business. Simply donate through kitabisa.com/biteandshare or share the link to friends and let them know about us. TFM: What’s your aim from doing this? M: Other than what I mentioned above, in the bigger picture we want to be part of the solution in making Indonesia better. We believe these children in these orphanages have the same rights and responsibilities to contribute for a better Indonesia. TFM: If this doesn’t get enough funding, what would you do? M: We would still continue doing what we believe in with our own funding. Even though it might take us a lot longer to raise the funds. But we have faith that even in worst case scenario, we will make Bite & Share happen in the next two years. The reason we have the Bite & Share story here is because we believe in their heart, we believe in their cause, and most importantly we believe food is beyond survival or pleasure. We can do good with food too. Take part on this movement at kitabisa.com/biteandshare if you believe that too.
F O O DI E L I S T S
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We Are A Family by SAHIRI LOING photographs by DENNIE RAMON AND PTT FAMILY
From a simple inception that has turned into a lucrative F&B and hospitality business, the PTT Family has successfully given the lifestyleby ADITHYA PRATAMA photographs DITA WISTARINI seeking bycrowd something to write home about.
BEYOND CRONUTS Meet the mastermind of the world-acclaimed Cronut, and his new venture of desserts with time, Chef Dominique Ansel.
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egan in 2009 by Ronald Akili and Jason Gunawan, PTT Family emerging auspiciously with the opening of the still inexplicably named Potato Head at Pacific Place, now they have a beach club, a steakhouse, and a burger joint. Up next they are further expanding their empire with an opening of their very first hotel later this year. The Foodie Magazine takes a peek at the creative brains that power the PTT Family.
C O V E R F E AT U R E What happens when you mix good food, fun, passion, and artwork? Well, if you ask Ronald Akili, the answer most definitely will be Potato Head. But, actually, those are merely the necessary ingredients to create the structure, but the foundation is the love of a good husband. The catalyst for Potato Head was when Ronald wanted to open up a restaurant for his wife—Sandra Budiman—who’s a Cordon Bleu-educated chef, but he and his partner—Jason Gunawan—never expected it to be a huge entity as it is now. “We initially opened the restaurant for her, but then it became our passion,” says Ronald. “And since it’s opening in 2007 it has been a learning curve for us, and now our soul is practically written into every place.” The original Potato Head is now still standing at its original place in Pacific Place, but in 2010 they expanded the brand into the sunny and breezy atmosphere of Bali where Potato Head Beach Club in Seminyak has become one of the go-to spots for tourists and locals alike. “It is a massive operation and frankly I still don’t know what makes it successfull,” he says. “There was nothing there when we chose that location.” With an elliptical amphitheatreinspired structure—plus a collection of 18th century teak window shutters—the Beach Club is definitely a sight for sun-sore eyes. Then followed other ambitious projects, such as their steakhouse, Potato Head Garage, a classically-designed restaurant located in a stadium-size venue; Lilin, an Indonesian-specialty restaurant located within the Beach Club; Three Buns, a burger joint that is kind of their homage to comfort food; and the latest one, Potato Head Folk in Singapore, their first international outpost. “The industry is a lot tougher there, very competitive,” he explains of their decision to open in Singapore. “But at the same time we get to learn a lot about their operating system.” Both of the partners’ art background (Ronald and Jason’s first venture together was an art gallery) and also property management has definitely helped in making their brand distinctly recognizable to their guests: touches of Indonesian culture and contemporary art permeates the interior of each of their venues. But, naturally, in the end everything is about the menu. “We try to make the food as general as possible, but we don’t want to follow any trend,” he says. “It may not be for everyone but we are certain that there are the same market who shares the same DNA with us.” Next up: opening up their first ever hotel—the Katamama—located at Seminyak near their famous beach club that as usual, will offer loads of culinary goodies that includes Movida, Alchemy, and even a mixology institute called the Akademy.
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R Ronald Akili
Founder & Chief Executive Officer
“The industry is a lot tougher there, very competitive, but at the same time we get to learn a lot about their operating system.”
C O V E R F E AT U R E
J Jason Gunawan Founder & Creative Director
“I am in charge of the design and we try to have all things vintage that comes from different eras, especially my favorite eras, the ‘50s and the ‘60s”
Jason’s responses might be curt and simple but one feels that in running a business operation as large as the one that the PTT group owns, you may need a straight-tothe-point man. In terms of how he delivered these lines, every word sounded very well thought of. “We never planned to have something this big,” he says. “As I’m sure Ronald has told you, it started out with an idea to create a restaurant for his wife, and we thought, with our business background, we can certainly do that.” And now that simple idea has grown into something akin to an empire, and according to Jason, the only ingredient that you needed is originality. “We always try to think outside of the box, but we never copy and paste,” he says. “In fact we try to be trendsetters in the food and beverages industry.” One of the most striking thing in each of their outlets is of course the gorgeous interior design, complements of famous architect, Andra Matin, and painter Eko Nugroho. “I am in charge of the design and we try to have all things vintage that comes from different eras, especially my favorite eras, the ‘50s and the ‘60s,” he says. “But basically we want to be as eclectic as possible by mixing things up” Their first outlet, Potato Head, was the first industrial-styled restaurant in Indonesia, with elements of Dutch colonial warehouses taken from across the archipelago. “All of these ideas that we had were taken from our frequent traveling and simple routine brainstorming with the group,” he explains. One thing’s for sure: visiting all of the Potato Head outlets is as much about the experience as it is about the food. “Everything that we do here is about being fresh and original,” he says proudly. “And we want people to experience that as well, to get our ideas and inspiration.” We’d say he succeeded.
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
S Ong Seng Hoo President Director
“The ability to make decisions that I can see the impact immediately is one of my favorite things about working at PTT Family”
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Starting out with a partnership with Ronald in a groundbreaking residential development in 2009, Ong Seng Hoo decided to join the PTT family full time since last year. (He became the President Director of the PTT Family in 2011.) The reason? “”I’ve always had an interest in the hospitality industry, in particular food and beverage,” he says. “Considering my previous field—the banking industry—it was a welcome change.” But his previous expertise still plays a large role in the day-to-day operations of the group. “I oversees all of the corporate aspects of the business—including the Finance and Legal departments,” he explains. “Our founding partners, Ronald and Jason, handle the planning and completion of any new projects and business lines, then they handed it over to me to run once they have been beautifully created. He really seems to love the constant creativity that this particular industry has to offer. “The ability to make decisions that I can see the impact immediately is one of my favorite things about working at PTT Family,” he says. “Unlike my previous role in the finance industry, alongside my partners I can truly shape the future of the company, that has continuously grown into a force to be reckoned with on the international stage.” But, as he admitted himself, it was really his love of wine that motivated this transfer. “One of my greatest passions is fine wine,” he says, “and I had been spending plenty of money on wines at PTT Family restaurants as well as our competition, so I figured it would make sense to contribute to the profits of a company I was a part of!”
C O V E R F E AT U R E
E Eliot Sandiford Director of Public Relations & Corporate Communications
On a vacation to the Island of the Gods, Eliot Sandiford—presumably like everyone else who visits Bali —was immediately mesmerized with what he saw at Seminyak. “It was such an incredible place,” he recollects. “From the artwork to the design—it all gels together in a very wonderful way.” But unlike everyone else, Eliot was fortunate in getting acquainted with the owners. “I mentioned to an old friend who works at the beach club—Dre Masso—how much I admired the club, and at first I actually joked how I’d love to work with them,” he says. “But then he got me in contact with Ronald, and a few weeks later I came to Jakarta for an interview. I was very impressed with the set up and he offered me a job.” Well, when you count veteran mixologist Dre Masso as an old friend and an impressive resume that includes an eight-year stint at Bacchus Public Relations in London as director of the lifestyle department and the Aqua Restaurant Group in Hong Kong as Director of Communications and Marketing, we’d say the job offer would’ve come naturally. Though he’s got a degree in English Literature from the University of Edinburgh (“A degree that I have no use of”), but the hospitality industry is definitely the place where Eliot says he feels at home in, a feeling originated from childhood. “My father was a diplomat and he used to entertain a lot,” Eliot says. “And I think from that experience I grew to appreciate the art of hospitality and gradually the finer things in life.” As for his current workplace, Eliot has nothing but praised for the PTT Family. “I love seeing a company that is relatively young but the people who runs it always have big plans,” he says. Next up: the ambitious Katamama hotel, and a Potato Head pop-up in London.
“I love seeing a company that is relatively young but the people who runs it always have big plans.”
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
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Ratna Kartadjoemena Director of Development
“It’s about how you try to make your guests as comfortable as possible and how you bring out your best china whenever the guests arrives—that part I really like.”
She may look fresh-faced but, again, don’t judge a book by its cover. Prior to Indonesia, Ratna Kartadjoemena has made the U.S— namely Washington DC and New York—her second home: armed with a Bachelors Degree from Georgetown University’s McDonough School of Business and a Masters degree from Cornell University’s School of Hotel Administration, she went to work at Ernst & Young and later the Starwood Hotels & Resorts’s Real Estate Investment Management group in New York. She became part of the PTT Family in 2012 as Director of Corporate Development, a task that is right down her alley as her
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previous always entails the management side of the hospitality business, which includes restaurants and hotels. “I’m always very into the hospitality business,” she says. “It’s about how you try to make your guests as comfortable as possible and how you bring out your best china whenever the guests arrives—that part I really like.” And, for her, the PTT family is a very unique company with a grand mission that incorporates food with art, design, and music. “I like how we try to push the boundaries,” she says. “They’re always inspired by art and infuse something Indonesian then mould it into something new.”
At PTT Family, Ratna is charged not only with developing corporate expansion but also creating cultural programming to members of their family as well. “The PTT family is always about maintaning standards and efficiency,” she says. “But of course it’s also about how we treat each other and the guests.” And as for further business expansions of the PTT Family, she said she welcomes the challenge. “Customer’s are always changing and so must we in terms of how to run our business. But so far the experience working here has been very educational for me.”
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Before joining the PTT Family, Michael Killian had already seen the huge potential of the group. “I am one of the longest serving family members, joining the group in March 2011,” he says. “And even in 2011, it was already clear to me that the PTT Family was much more than just a food and beverage company—I loved the culture and identity that the group projected and I knew that they would continue to create great concepts.” And that they have definitely done. Michael and his team has so far been responsible in designing and producing the visual identity of their projects, which include their upcoming hotel, The Katamama and the branding for their popular music festival in Bali, Sunny Side Up. He definitely has a great time working for PTT Family. “I get to spend my working day surrounded by people who share my values and interests, be that food and drink, fashion design or music,” he says. “From the young and dynamic creative team that I work with daily to our founders, everyone is open to new and exciting ideas.”
M Michael Killian
Head of Design Team
“I get to spend my working day surrounded by people who share my values and interests, be that food and drink, fashion design or music.”
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Noguchi Haruhisa
Executive Chef Potato Head Jakarta (Pacific Place)
“I consider my colleagues here as my brothers, sisters, and children, which makes the whole project at hand feel exciting.” An amiable workplace environment is as important as doing your dream job. Fortunately, for Noguchi Haruhisa, Executive Chef of Potato Head Jakarta, he found that in the PTT Family. “Chef Take, head chef of Potato Head Garage, that actually was the one who recommended me,” he says. “And I had a great talk with Ronald—we connect and move into the same direction. He gave me so many good experiences and I want to take on the challenges while working at his company.” In fact, just as the name suggested, the working culture at the PTT Family feels a lot like Family. “I consider my colleagues here as my brothers, sisters, and children, which makes the whole project at hand feel exciting.” The task at hand for him is to continuously create high quality menus and provide consistency in quality food and to provide training to his staff. “I also managed hygiene, cost control, and make a good win-win relationship with our suppliers,” Noguchi says. Speaking of quality, Noguchi yearns for one day that local products and healthy menu became the staple of everyone’s lifestyle.
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Adam Penney Executive Chef Three Buns
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YOKO KATO
Group Head Pastry Chef, PTT Family
“We cook straight from the heart, keep in contact with our suppliers, look for new ideas, and also listen to customers’ feedback.”
“PTT Family has a good reputation and it will help me to grow professionally as well to further help me enhance my skills.”
Though having been a chef for almost 20 years, Adam Penney is still constantly trying to learn new things each and every day. And moving from London to Jakarta is still a new—and bold—move. “I was at a point in my career where I wanted a new challenge,” Adam says. “Moving to the other side of the world, opening two restaurants in two different countries in as many months was definitely a great challenge!” He certainly likes what his new home can offer. “I have been able to travel a lot with the company to explore and discover new food, culture, and people,” he says. “And, luckily, I have very supportive bosses.” Of course as a chef he must always strive for relevance, and so how does he accomplish that for the PTT Family? “We cook straight from the heart, keep in contact with our suppliers, look for new ideas, and also listen to customers’ feedback,” he answers. As for food and beverage trends in the near future, he said he would love to see more of sricacha, root vegetables, seaweed, nut milks, and puddings for the sweet tooth. He’s got nothing to complained either in his personal life. “Moving over here has definitely changed my life,” he says. “I met my wife when I opened the the Singapore branch!”
With her culinary expertise that includes Japanese, French, and Indonesian traditional pastries, Yoko Kato must’ve brought a lot to the table of the PTT Family. She’s got a degree from HANA Institute of Patisserie, Tokyo, and stints as pastry chef in her home country and France. She joined the PTT Family in 2013, a group which she said, “has a good reputation and it will help me to grow professionally as well to further help me enhance my skills.” She likes seeing how the company held continous training of its staff so that they can become reliable and hardworking individuals. And as for future food trends, Yoko said she would love to have more healthyconscious people ordering healthy dishes and beverages.
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WE THE FOODIES! by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE RAMON
In less than a year, We The Foodies has governed a lot of territories in the latest F&B scenes on social media. Here we have all the crews suited up, ready to share a story about the group and themselves.
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ood brings us all together closer, without boundaries. That was the original thought that the twelve foodies of Instagram once had during one of their meet-ups less than a year ago. They shared their love for food and photography, shared the best places to eat at as Indonesian food lovers and the capital city hipsters, and many more. It all came down to a decision one day that there’s an urgent need to make things more serious, to fuel both their passion and their livelihood. Hence came out the nine who were up to the task. It began with twelve and ended with nine. Thus, We The Foodies was born. William Sudhana, the leader of this group, tells us the importance to stay
WILLIAM SUDHANA @williamsudhana The frontman and the mastermind behind the success of We The Foodies. William originally came from an electrical engineering background and has done his share as a full timer in the corporate world for around three years. When he saw the opening for a new, promising path with We The Foodies, he abandoned his career right away to fulfill his long awaited destiny - a new life as a foodie, his dream as a photographer, and a digital consultant all at the same time. As the leader, William brings a lot of energy to the group and directs its growth for a bigger future. “We are not stopping with only reviews and digital marketing only. We would like to inspire people as well with what we do”, says William. F avorite food: Nasi Goreng and Nasi Padang Dream food destination: Medan
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connected with people and the followers. He wanted people to understand what they did, not just from a distance but also enables them to immerse themselves with the creative thoughts and the results that they have showed publicly. While We The Foodies may have started as a one stop digital branding consultant group specializing in food, travel, and also fashion; there’s a vision that’s more than just all that. “It is important for us to share our work and to inspire people at the same time. We want people to also be able to promote themselves and open a new path of career through social media. That’s where our regular #chitchatyuk session is organized for free to empower our followers”, he says.
In addition to that, We The Foodies is now strengthening their bargaining power as Jakarta’s premier F&B digital branding consultant, as well as hosting photography workshops as well. It seems there’s no stopping the development of this group of young people now. With William’s acumen in leadership and each of the team members energizing the group with their specialty skills, it will be interesting to see how it goes from now on and how immense their influence in the future of Indonesian digital F&B world will be. In the absence of two other members (Hafiizh Alfarrisi - @hafiizh_alfarrisi and Prathama Gilang - @makansampaikenyang), here is the rest of the team and a bit of story about their lives.
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EDI HARTONO LIEM @edihartonoliem Behind his sophisticated and hyped food photography angles in his Instagram, Edi is a professional in product development for export commodities with one of the country’s largest consumer goods company. He oversees the design of product packaging, the color patterns, and also the promotional items. “With this background and my responsibility in creative development for WTF, I have hopes to bring the group as presentable as possible to bring our digital marketing concept for bigger clients in the future”, says Edi sharing how promising WTF would be in the future. F avorite food: Loenpia Gang Lombok from Semarang Dream food destination: Makassar MARIA KARINA @mariakarinaa | www.mariakarina.com A fashionista and also a foodie, Maria was originally known as the owner of an Instagram online cake shop called @sweetery_jkt. One time, a fellow foodie and also her customer introduced Maria to the people who would one day form We The Foodies. Since then, she decided to give her all for the group. “One day I will open my own café and boutique. With WTF, we already visualized ourselves on heading that way as well. Let’s see how it goes”, says Maria smiling and full of confidence. F avorite food: Pecel Ayam Mubarok at Permata Buana – Puri Indah, Jakarta Dream food destination: Looking for company to take her out to have exotic food like snakes or pi oh.
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VICKI RIANA @teloer As among the few who resigned their fate to We The Foodies, Vicky is responsible with the public relations of this group. Absorbing her experience from her previous spell working in branding and advertising companies, she has detailed plans for We The Foodies in the future. “I want this group to not only grow bigger but also have our own office one day. We should have this and we should have that. We are also working hard to improve the brand image of our beloved group”, shares Vicky. F avorite food: Medan-style sate padang or Ajo Ramon’s in Jakarta. Dream food destination: Pontianak
YOVITA ANANTO @yovitaananto | www.yovitaananto.com As the youngest member of the group, Yovita has developed her artistic skills at a young age thanks to the influence coming from her WTF compatriots and also with her majoring in digital media and advertising in one of a top schools in Jakarta. “I am still curious about shaping a career related to my major after I graduate.
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However, it should still be somewhere between food and art”, shares Yovita about her future plans. F avorite food: Pasta with aglio olio or carbonara sauce. Dream food destination: Manado
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MEGA WANGSA @littlelephantsteps www.littlelephantmw.com Although Mega was initially a bit shy to join in when people started the hype about vertical food photography by climbing up chairs in restaurants, she has now overcome the challenge and became good at it. “Lucky that we can tilt the screen on modern cameras nowadays to help”, she says modestly. In her third year now as a college student majoring in visual communication
design, she became familiar with many aspects in advertising, photography, and also film. With this, she hopes to contribute her talents and knowledge for the future of WTF. F avorite food: Homemade ikan pindang pedas and oxtail soup Dream food destination: All you can eat macarons at Ladurée.
SILVIANA ANG @silvianaang Silviana came from an accounting background, but thanks to her profession now that involves marketing in a professional agency, she develops her love in sharing. Of course by that, she means about food! Silviana hopes that her passion and expertise would help shape a stronger image of WTF while also helping others as
Instagram: @wethefoodies | #WTFoodies | Snapchat: wethefoodies | E: info.wethefoodies@gmail.com | www.wethefoodies.co
well. “I originally wanted to open my own café back then, but with what our group can do now, I instead wanted to promote local food businesses so they would grow bigger”, she says. F avorite food: Garlic noodle at Gastromaquia Dream food destination: Spain
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Bringing Indonesian Cuisine to the Black Forest by RAFAEL REYES photographs by CHEF DEGAN SEPTOADJI PERSONAL COLLECTION
Chef Degan Septoadji presents a two-week Indonesian food promotion at one of the most famous restaurants in Germany this August.
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egan Septoadji, chef-owner of Café Degan in Bali and Letter D in Jakarta, leads a team of chefs as they present a two-week Indonesian Food Promotion at the renowned Hotel Traube Tonbach in the Black Forest, Schwarzwald, Germany. Reprising the event for the second time after a successful series of similar events last year. Set for 10-21 August 2015, guests will be able to join cooking classes offered at the in-house Cooking School, as well as taste Indonesianflavored dishes at the gala dinner events. “It is such an honor to be able to present Indonesian cuisine at one of the best culinary venues in Europe, the threeMichelin star Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube, at Hotel Traube Tonbach,” Chef Degan said. “The world has become so global that even the freshest Indonesian ingredients can be found in the middle of the Black Forest, making it easy for us chefs to present good quality food with incredible flavors.” The five-course menu by Chef Degan will have authentic Indonesian tastes and flavors combined with contemporary presentation, creating a delightful introduction to firsttime diners while bringing back memories
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to those longing for exotic Indonesian repast. “Each dish is refined in its modern presentation, yet spices, flavors and textures remain the way it should taste traditionally,” Chef Degan added. Surrounded by tall pines, the Hotel Traube Tonbach is located in one of the most beautiful natural landscapes in Europe - the Black Forest. The five-star hotel has been under family ownership for over 220 years and is now run by Patron Heiner Finkbeiner and his family in a very personal way. Individual service, highest levels of comfort, award-winning cuisine and a modern Spa & Resort provide an elegant comfortable atmosphere where the guests always take center stage. The atmosphere of the house is characterized by warm hospitality and sophisticated way of life and since 1789. During the food promotion, cooking classes will be offered on Mondays and Tuesdays for participants to take away tips and techniques in Asian cooking, while gala dinners will be served on Wednesdays and Fridays. The Indonesian culinary program is open to both visitors as well as the hotel guests.
Chef Degan was educated and trained in Germany and has worked in prestigious international hotel chains namely Banyan Tree Hotels & Resorts, The Atlantis Bahamas, The Ritz-Carlton, Grand Hyatt and Hilton International. Aside from running his restaurants in Bali and Jakarta, Chef Degan was also a TV chef and jury member on the popular reality cooking show MasterChef Indonesia. Aside from Chef Degan’s education in Germany, his association with the Black Forest goes back a long way. He has a long-standing friendship with the Hotel’s chef Henry Oskar Fried with whom he spent apprenticeship years together at the Hotel zur Pfalz in Kandel back in 1984. Both have pursued their professional careers internationally yet their paths continue to cross over the years, unveiling opportunities to share their passion and expertise in gourmet cooking. This opportunity to showcase Indonesian cuisine at a renowned threeMichelin star restaurant in the middle of the Black Forest in Germany is an amazing feat. We wish Chef Degan and his team good luck and godspeed on this great endeavor.
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CHEF DEGAN SEPTOADJI | LETTER D | Jalan Ahmad Dahlan no. 16, Jakarta | T: +62 21 7278 5111 www.letter-d.co | Instagram: @letterd _ and @deganseptoadji
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The Not So New Kids On The Block by SAHIRI LOING photographs by DENNIE RAMON
Klaus Woizik and Bogdan Vlase are not new to wide world of hospitality. The duo are out to give the other F&B players in the city a run for their money.
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he fun project that turned serious. Starting from a simple love of food and whiskey, Klaus Woizik and Bogdan Vlase decided to partner up to develop a business that is in line with their passions. They’ve got the perfect pairing of skills already—one is a veteran hotelier and the other a prominent player
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in the F&B scene since he was 15—and together they have formed KLABO. With the success of their Ivy Catering and their whisky bar Nip & Dram, next up, Monty’s, an elegant restaurant with a continental flavors. We speak to them and discover what makes them tick.
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Klaus Woizik
Founder & Managing Partner Exuding a well-composed persona, Klaus Woiziski seems to be the “yin” in his partnership with Bogdan Vlase. (FYI, their joint company is named Klabo.) And while his partner happily performs his duty as the meet and greeter, Klaus seems content in wearing the “man behind the screen” mantle in running Monty’s. “It’s just that I’ve been at the front for so long so right now I feel like being the ‘handyman’ for once,” says Klaus. Well, if you work almost all your life in the hospitality industry—mainly hotels— then being at the front line definitely comes with the job. Awestruck by the first hotel that he went to when he was 17-years-old, the German-born and bred Klaus Woizik soon felt that his future profession would be in the hotel business. And now his hotelier experience has spanned for more than 20 years, first in Stuttgart and Munich, then off to London, Australia, and New Zealand with the Hyatt Group. He came to Indonesia to work at the Grand Hyatt Jakarta (as Resident Manager) and the Luxury Collection’s The Keraton at The Plaza (as General Manager), but it was actually at the Hyatt where he first met with Bogdan whom he interviewed for an F&B related position. And soon the like-minded men became best friends, with a shared passion for whisky, cars, motorcycles, dogs, wine, traveling, and, of course, food. Due to personal family reasons, Klaus resigned from his job, and it was at this period the idea to create something with Bogdan started brewing. Their first joint collaboration was a catering busines (“which we discovered later on wasn’t really our passion”), but their next one certainly was: the whisky bar Nip & Dram, which was initially a members-only bar but gradually started to be open for public. Then came the next big idea, which was opening up a restaurant of their own. “Basically we like to eat,” he says. “And what we’re doing now—and before—started out as a fun project which suddenly turned into something serious.” And now that something serious has again materialized in the form of a brasserie-style restaurant called Monty’s (“we wanted a name that was easy to remember, and we thought Monty—from the movie Monty Python—is perfect”), located in the posh location of Senopati. In their latest venture, as mentioned before, Klaus has no problem in playing the role of tukang (or handyman) where he’s responsible for, among other things, interior, design, and operations. “I’m in charge of building the ‘shop’, and just focus on
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what’s happening in the kitchen,” he says. In response to the lack of Indonesian food on Monty’s menu, Klaus says, “Why compete in cooking up an Indonesian menu while there are a lot of places out there that offers the same thing? The street food here is so much better anyway. Besides, what you see on the menu is really all the things that we love to eat.” Though Klaus and Bogdan both love to eat,
but apparently they differ in the types of dining experience. “Bogdan loves to have that fine dining experience, where every meal is separated into each course, whereas I preferred casual dining with all the food served in one go.” After Monty’s, they already have another project in line: an al-fresco restaurant in the Dharmawangsa area named Ivy. Sounds like the perfect name for a sister.
MONTY’S | Jalan Senopati Raya No .84, Senopati, Jakarta | T: +62 21 7279 2323
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Bogdan Vlase
Founder & Managing Partner I don’t think I’ve ever met someone with a swagger before, but meeting the co-owner of Monty’s, Bogdan Vlase, that adjective instantly comes to mind. His globe-trotting career might have an influence—which ranges from London to France to Spain to the Carribean to Dubai—and one might
feel his noctunal profession also factored in as well, which started from being a glass collector at his uncle’s friend’s bar in Sweden when he was 15, then moving on to being a bartender and a DJ, and eventually landing firmly in the management side of the F&B business. But, just to be clear, he’s not the clock-puncher type. “After getting my B.A in Marketing I got a nine-to-five job in England,
and I only lasted three months!” says the Swedish-born car afficionado. He then worked in various jobs, including one on a Saudi prince’s yacht which required him to remain at sea for a hefty six months. “I consider myself educated in the ‘school of life’,” he says of the skills he acquires. “Everything I do I learned by myself and from my seniors. Before I used get many ‘no’s’ from the hotel industry. I don’t go to hotel school so that made it harder for me to get accepted in the hotel business, until the Raffles hotel in Dubai said yes to me, and for the next four years I got to learned from my seniors there.” Then came his most daunting task: keeping the Buddha Bar in Jakarta afloat. “When I came here the venue was already in trouble; it was busy, but business was not good. I came to save the Titanic, but I failed.” He had a shot in opening Buddha Bar in Washington D.C., but for some reason the 36-year-old saw something potential here in Jakarta. “The F&B situation certainly looked promising,” he says. “With the middle class growing and people traveling more, they were expecting more quality in food and in service. So I expect [Jakarta] to have more fine restaurants opening.” The first potential idea came to fruition in the form of Nip & Dram, the first ever whisky bar in Indonesia. “Yeah we thought, we all love whisky, everytime we went abroad someone always came back with a new bottle of whisky, so why not make a business out of it? We opened up a ‘whiskey fund’ and we store the whiskeys in Singapore.” Then came the next potential idea: Monty’s, a “one-stop-shop” where people can come in to eat or hangout and order cocktails at the bar. “We also have a private dining option upstairs as well as a whiskey bar and live music at the third floor,” he says. And it’s at a very prime location to boot: Senopati. “We’re very lucky to get this location, very near the financial district. It’s a place where you can easily bar-hop or restaurant-hop, which in Jakarta can be very hard to do because of the traffic.” In his downtime (which can be rare these days), Bogdan busies himself with two things: going to the gym and—being an avid dog lover—spending quality time with his nine dogs. But for the moment his work is his life, which he enjoys doing as being gregarious and meeting people seems to be his forte. His mother—who now lives with him in Jakarta—once asked him, “When are you going to be at the other side of the park?” He explains, “that means when are you going be the customer instead of being at the other side of the bar. But after a while, after seeing how passionately I enjoy my work, she finally said, ‘Okay, you belong behind the bar’.”
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Christer Foldnes Executive Chef
The prospect of being unchallenged sometimes can lead to other (potentially) great things. Though in some cases, that opportunity might have to wait a while. When chef Christer Foldnes felt he reached his peak at his previous job here in Jakarta, he decided to take a little time off and go back to his childhood home of Bergen, the second largest city in Norway, reuniting with family and friends. But then a friend from Indonesia—that would be Klaus—contacted him about this restaurant that he’s developing, in which he was looking for someone to fill in the chef spot, and Christer—feeling up to a new challenge—was readily game for it. “There was no planning concerning me working in Jakarta—it was all coincidental,” says Christer. “And I always like to try new places, new things, and there was nothing
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holding me back home.” The first coincidence comes in the form of an invitation from the Norwegian embassy in Jakarta to have the newly “crowned” Seafood Chef of The Year (that would be him) do some cooking demo and promote Norwegian dishes. It was here that he discovered the soon-to-be-vacant chef position at C’s at the Grand Hyatt. And thus for the next four years he became the chef de cuisine of the establishment. And now he is the master of the kitchen of the newly opened restaurant, Monty’s. Luckily, the dishes served here give him the opportunity to once again explore his Scandinavian culinary roots. “Here we like to cook what we eat,” says the 30-year-old chef. “And that means our menu leans toward modern European with a lot of Scandinavian influence. And we also try to give the menu a healthy feel, like using less butter and cream and more along the lines of organic olive oil.”
And in harmony with the clean cut aesthetic of Monty’s architecture, he also likes to keep his menu “clean”: “What’s important for me is that, of course, the flavors must go together. I like to cook very clean and just keeping things simple. I want the product to speak for itself.” In a way he’s also an environmentalist: he refuses to serve a something that has been known to be handled rather inhumanely (“we have to respect nature.”). So sorry folks, you won’t find any foie gras here. He’s also not into wasting food. “We don’t throw anything away—when I cook something I will use every part of it, from the skin, meat, and right down to the bones,” he says. With new responsibility comes new challenges—like the lack of the availability of quality supplies—but we get the feeling that the nasi padang-lover welcomes it, after all, as he said so himself, “I see myself [working] here for a long time.”
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Bobby Setyadi Head of Finance
One can imagine being in charge of finance must be a daunting task—especially for a new establishment. But good company can make the experience easier. “When I met with Bogdan and Klaus, I admired their focus and their passion. They can be very intense,” says Bobby Setyadi, partner and Head of Finance in Klabo. And that good company must’ve helped in transitioning him to the F&B world. Bobby initially worked for his family manufacturing business, but was then lured into this whole new ball game upon meeting Klaus and Bogdan. “I’ve always been fascinated with this particular industry,” he says. “But when you’re in the management side of it, basically the work is not much different. You still have to have a good system, a cost-controlled operation, and executing the same standards everytime.” When asked whether if he’s the one who provides rationalization to every idea, he respons “Well, it’s a collaborative thing, really. The truth is, when you’re in this business you’ve got to be brave and here everyone encourages one another.” Profitability of course must be the main focus of the finance guy, despite the constant blooming—and closing—of new restaurants. “Even though there are a lot of restaurants opening in Jakarta, but it’s still a risky business—it can be easy to have one but hard to maintain it,” he says. But fortunately Bobby and the group already have a certain market targeted in their minds: the adults. “If we want to aim for the young people there are already other F&B groups targeting that particular age group,” he explains. “And so, similar to the crowd we’re aiming for at Nip & Dram, we created Monty’s for the mature, sophisticated adult who loves going out to new places.” Longevity is definitely what they aspire for, and Bobby believes that they will be here for a long time. “We are relatively a newcomer, but despite the always changing lifestyle, we’re confident that we can be a strong player by continuously upholding our stellar standards and service.”
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Christofle: THE STORY by KYLE GREGORIO photographs by CHRISTOFLE
Since its founding in Paris in 1830, Christofle has been one of the world’s leading ambassadors of French art de vivre. Thanks to its creations in silver, from flatware, tableware and decorative arts, to jewelry and accessories, as well as its designs interpreted in crystal and porcelain, Christofle has established itself as a symbol of savoir-faire and elegance.
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hristofle remains loyal first and foremost to the spirit of its founders who cherished modernity and innovation, in creation and production. Christofle has always associated its name with major creative movements working with famous artists like Man Ray and Jean Cocteau, such avant-garde architects as Gio Ponti and enlisting the talent of such modernist silver designers as Lino Sabattini and Christian Fjerdingstad. Today Christofle continues the tradition by collaborating with internationally renowned designers such as Andree Putman, Martin Szekely, Marcel Wanders, Ora-Ïto and JeanMarie Massaud to name a few. A silversmith of impeccable antecedents, Christofle graduated from gracing the tables of kings and emperors of yesteryear to enliven the meals of the finest restaurants tables and the most luxurious hotels, and ornate presidential palaces, and luxurious contemporary homes. From palaces to the Orient Express, from ocean liners to the Concorde, Christofle is always a guest of honor in the most gracious interiors. The excellence of Christofle as a silversmith reaches its apogee in its Haute Orfevrerie Collection where Master silversmiths reveal their secrets. Not only do they offer the most superbly crafted limited edition silver pieces but they also create exclusive items on demand for the most discerning clients as well as propose the personalization of existing pieces. ORIGINS Christofle was founded in 1830 by Charles Christofle (1805-63) who began his career as a jeweler. Visionaries of their time, Charles Christofle and his wealthy brother-in-law Joseph- Albert Bouilhet, acquired the
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exploitation rights for the new invention of the Count Henri de Ruoltz, a French chemist, who had just discovered electro plating. The founder’s nephew and successor, Henri Bouilhet and Paul Christofle’s foresight and entrepreneurial skills created what has become today the longest living and most famous silversmith house in existence, its reputation based on its capacity to create silver pieces as opulent as those of the past but at a fraction of the price. Amongst the growing European bourgeoisie Le Christofle soon became a generic term to refer to their silverware. Today, the company perpetuates the tradition of prestigious orders as the supplier to the Palais de l’Elysée in Paris, the EEC in Brussels, the King of Saudi Arabia and the King of Morocco, as well as celebrities such as Bill Gates, Tom Cruise and Sharon Stone. Of course, prestigious restaurants such as the Louis XV or La Tour d’Argent in France, Le Cirque and the Mercer Kitchen in New York, the Bellagio in Las Vegas, the Taillevent in Tokyo, and all the restaurants in the world operated by Alain Ducasse carry Christofle collections. DESIGN Through its creations, Christofle has been an integral part of all major artistic movements, from Art Nouveau to Art Deco, from Modernism to Contemporary Art, successfully flirting with all influences in between. From the very beginning, Christofle has shown indelible foresight by seeking out influential artists, architects and designers, outside its own design studio’s walls, in order to tap into the major trends of the day, thereby always remaining modern and up-to-date. The Vertigo collection created by Andree Putman remains one of the brand’s
best sellers. In her wake, famous designers like Richard Hutten, Martin Szekely, Xiao Hui Wang, the young prodigy Ora Ito, creator of Christofle’s famous Arborescence collection, as well as the charismatic Dutch designer, Marcel Wanders, have become synonymous with the brand’s latest successes. Already Wanders’ Jardin d’Eden design, characterized by an all-over decadent floral motif, is competing with the legendary Malmaison collection. In 2011, eager to gain a position in the interior-furnishing segment, the House of Christofle proposed for sale its first collection of small, outstanding and beautifully crafted furniture items. For the first time in over a hundred and forty years, it took its collections out of the dining room and spilled into every other room in the house. World famous industrial designer, Karim Rashid, was the first to rise to the challenge, skillfully giving the brand an unexpected twist. Christofle also decided to go back to its roots in 2005 with the launch of a purely sterling silver jewelry collection. Once again, top jewelry designers were called upon to immerse themselves in the brand’s style, turning Christofle accessories into musthaves. The House of Christofle currently boasts 26 collections all branded by topnotch designers. The American Michele Oka Doner, the French Christian Ghion, Andrée Putman, Adeline Cacheux and Nathalie Jean are amongst them. These artists contribute to the stylistic evolution of the brand’s collections. The French designer Stephane Parmentier, known mostly for his work for Karl Lagerfeld and Givenchy, and his numerous collaborations with such luxury brands as Hermes, has recently been appointed Creative Director with Christofle.
C O V E R F E AT U R E HAUTE ORFEVRERIE For its Haute Orfèvrerie activity, Christofle concentrates on traditional techniques and carries on a handmade production. Its Master Silversmiths are truly “living treasures,” the faithful guardians of Christofle’s age-old techniques and traditions. Christofle’s workshops are currently employing one worker, a planisher, who has received the enviable title of “Best Craftsman of France”. It is this irreplaceable human knowledge, perpetuated by highly qualified craftsmen and passed on from master to pupil that makes up Christofle’s unique heritage.
PLANISHING AND RAISING Known since Antiquity, it is the technique of silverware shaping. Only helped by hammers and by mallets, the silversmith creates a shape from a metal sheet (the flank). His talent lies in the regularity with which he hammers the piece, forcing the metal to lengthen or to bend itself. TURNING - SPINNING Christofle is one of the first brands of silverware to introduce this technique into its workshops. The spinner creates wooden forms (the chucks) that he then fixes to a horizontal lathe on which he will push
a sheet of metal with the help of a tool called a “spoon”. ASSEMBLING AND FINISHING One sign of Christofle’s quality is the seemingly total invisibility of soldering seams. Using a series of increasingly finer and gentler abrasive pastes, brushes and buffing pads, the polisher gives the piece a perfectly smooth surface and its polished finish. The “mirror polish” surface is another distinctive sign of Christofle’s quality. DECORATIVE CRAFTS Using chasing tools, the chaser decorates a piece by tapping on specific areas without removing any metal. When the chaser works from the inside out, this technique is called “repoussé” and the motif forms a raised design. By contrast, the engraver uses a burin to cut and remove a layer or groove of metal. Christofle’s Haute Orfevrerie pieces that include original creations by designers and artists, re-editions and reproductions of historic pieces, along with tailor-made orders from clients, are all produced in its Haute Orfèvrerie workshops, currently located in the Christofle factory in Normandy, France. All Haute Orfevrerie pieces bear distinctive authenticity marks: the millennium hallmark, a particular signature which makes it possible to date the finished piece and a certificate of authenticity signed by both the President of Christofle and the Haute Orfèvrerie Director. Each piece is numbered, the number engraved directly onto the piece, reflecting not only the order in which the piece was produced but the number of pieces in the edition. RE-EDITIONS Christofle regularly re-edits pieces from its heritage collections, thereby perpetuating age old gestures and manufacturing techniques. These exceptional objects, whether decorative or practical, are witnesses to a privileged era and the embodiment of inspired creative minds. Master Silversmiths use their extensive knowledge of the most sophisticated techniques to accurately embody the manufacturing spirit of the era. SPECIAL CUSTOM ORDER The imagination of their clients, original sketches and even photographs all inspire custom Haute Orfèvrerie work. To convert a client’s dream into a reality, Master Silversmiths wield their concerted skills, putting their talents to work in order to produce personalized and unique pieces. Whenever Christofle’s Master Silversmiths realize an exclusive design for an individual or a new hotel, produce additional items to match an existing table service, or adapt Christofle current pieces to a different scale purpose, they bring the most extravagant dreams to life.
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
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Respecting Food by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON
As the new general manager of Borobodur Hotel Jakarta, Patrick Beck has been keeping a keen eye on the food. We sat down with him and discover his immense love and respect for food.
“I
’ve always loved food!” This was the first line Patrick Beck exclaimed to me as we sat down. He continues: “My father was a chef and both his parents worked in the restaurant business. My sister and I also grew up in the restaurant business. Hence, I was exposed at a very young age to good food, good presentation and learned respect for the kitchen and respect for the ingredients.” Patrick further confesses that food is his passion. “To this day, I love to try new restaurants and chefs.” He reveals that one of his favorite dishes is foie gras. “When I was a kid, my father would do this foie gras dish and it was to die for!” Patrick’s father would take a nice and well-cleaned slice of foie gras, pan sear it and glace it with peaches and port wine. “I really enjoyed that dish and to this day, remember it. It was just beautiful.” Patrick shares that he when he eats, presentation and plating are also very important. “We all always eat with our eyes first. Subconsciously, when the plate is presented well, you go: Wow! And you know it is a good dish.” We eventually gravitate to favorite places to eat. Patrick tells me that he was just in Paris last December and went on a restaurant eating spree. “Of course my favorite food destination is France, and in particular, Paris,” exclaims the Parisian. Patrick says that he ate at such notable restaurants such as Pavillon Elysée Lenôtre and Alain Ducasse au Plaza
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Athénée. “In both these fine establishments, the key is presentation, freshness and innovation. It is hard to excel at that level without all these.” Patrick goes on to share a short story about Lenôtre. He tells me that he used to work for Lenôtre, and that when monsieur Gaston Lenôtre had retired from working the daily, he had sold the business to the French hospitality company Accor. But even if he was retired and already living in his castle outside of Paris, the chefs at Lenôtre would never put a new item on their menu without monsieur Lenôtre’s approval. So every few days, in their refrigerated van, they would bing dishes under development to monsieur Lenôtre’s castle for his approval. Those he liked would be directly put on the menu, those he didn’t like would stay out. What did this all mean: “there was an intense respect for people and the food.” Patrick goes on: “I think the respect for people here in Indonesia is there, for their seniors and for the chefs.” But it’s a different story when it comes to the respect for the food. “The respect for the food, people here have to learn. We have a long way to go. I hope I can share some of my knowledge, and other people can share their knowledge as well. To understand what food means. Food is not just about filling your stomach, it is more than that, it is more complex. You have to understand it well to do a good job at respecting it. Are we there? We are not. Are
we getting there? Definitely, we are on our way, moving forward.” And as a special treat for us and our readers, Patrick dons his apron and decides to share one of his signature dishes for us. A recipe he has been doing for over 10 years now. His pan-seared salmon with crab potato salad. It is a recipe he saw long ago and tweaked it to suit different occasions. When he sees recipes in cookbooks, he looks at the finished dish, then looks at the recipe. Then he decides to add or subtract ingredients based on his preferences and what are available at the particular time. For this salmon dish, he has added wasabi to the plain yogurt dressing that the original recipe had, which definitely adds a zing to the potato salad. Also the original recipe called for a balsamic vinaigrette, but he thought that since the salmon skin was already dark, he wanted a clear vinaigrette, so he replaced the balsamic with lemon juice. This salmon dish is his go do dish when he is hosting friends, best for a quick summer lunch and very easy to do at home. This is actually a first for me, wherein the general manager of a hotel comes out and shares his own recipe for us. And I do have to say, we all thoroughly enjoyed Patrick’s salmon with crab potato salad. With this and his passion for food, I am certainly looking forward to the improvements Patrick will be implementing for the F&B offerings of the Hotel Borobodur Jakarta. I can’t wait!
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SALMON FILLET WITH CRAB POTATO SALAD
INGREDIENTS:
Pan-Seared Salmon Serves: 4 4 pcs Fresh Salmon Fillet 1/2 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil Salt & Pepper for seasoning Fresh Rosemary
Crab potato salad. 8 pcs 1/3 cup 1/2 cup
Medium New Potatoes, boiled and peeled Extra Virgin Olive oil Green Onions, chopped Salt & pepper Homemade vinaigrette
1/4 cup 1 cup 1/2 cup
(Olive oil, lemon juice, water, salt and pepper) Fresh Chopped Coriander (Cilantro) White Crab Meat Plain yogurt Wasabi
• Place the salmon fillet on the cutting board, and score the skin crosswise about 5cm deep. Keep you cuts close together to get extra crispy salmon skin, and score the entire length of the salmon filet. Scoring the filet prevents it from curling while cooking. • Open each score and sprinkle salt, pepper and add some fresh rosemary into the cut. • Heat a cooking pan over medium heat and add olive oil when the pan is hot. Add the salmon, skin side down, as soon as the oil begins to slightly smoke. • Season the top of the salmon and don’t touch is anymore. - Watch the salmon and turn it over when it has colored 2/3rds of the way up the fillet. • Cook for another minute or so watching the color. Remove the pan from the heat, flip the salmon back to the skin side, and let it rest a minute.
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CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E
• Heat olive oil in a large sauce pan. Add the potatoes to the olive oil and cook briefly to lightly heat the potatoes. • Remove from heat and crush the potatoes with a fork. You don’t want to thoroughly mash them at this point, just crush them up a bit. • Chop the green onions using the entire onion from top to bottom and add to potatoes.
• Mix well the plain yogurt and wasabi. Season the potatoes lightly with salt and pepper, add the crab meat, the wasabi and plain yogurt and mix everything togethe r. • Add a healthy amount of vinaigrette dressing, and then the chopped coriander and mix again.
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A F O O DI E ’ S L I F E
The Family Man by SAHIRI LOING photographs by DENNIE RAMON
As the Mandarin Oriental Jakarta’s director of Food & Beverage, Sebastian Gassen is always immersed in food. We pry him away to discover what he likes to do when he is not working.
L
ike anyone who as a Director of Food and Beverages, Sebastian Gassen is very picky with his food. First important thing: “It must look pleasing to the eyes,” he says. And he much prefers food that is savory to the taste buds like two of his favorite Indonesian food, sop buntut and rawon. But regardless of his culinary preferences, when it comes to his day job, Sebastian welcomes the variety. “What’s appealing to me about the food and beverage world is how it’s not bythe-book—it always challenges you to be creative,” says the German national who now works at the Mandarin Oriental Jakarta. He was born in Koblenz, a city that comfortably sits in the confluence of both the Rhine and Moselle rivers, giving him the best of both world (especially when it comes to wine). His father was a politician so their house was never absent from entertaining guests. He initially wanted to be a gardener (“because it seemed great to always be working outside”) but he finally decided on the hospitality business. His career has brought him to Berlin, Vienna,
Moscow, Dubai, Beijing, and now, Indonesia, in world-class establishments such as the Ritz-Carlton, Hyatt, and Jumeirah. On the day that we met him, he was taking his family for an afternoon picnic, and fortunately for us the weather was quite beautiful. Accompanied by his wife and three-year-old daughter, Sebastian and family looked photo ready, especially next to the elegantly compact MINI Cooper Countryman, the premium car that is currently used by the Mandarin Oriental to drive their guests on a tour around Jakarta, which includes places to shop, or to have a picnic (with a personal butler!) , and a visit to famed museums in the Old Jakarta area. Just like every father, spending quality time with the family is very important for Sebastian. “We try to discover a new place or location every week, which is good for my daughter,” he says. “Unfortunately sometimes the traffic here is so bad that we only manage to travel within Central Jakarta.” Sometimes the workhours of hotel life can be quite unpredictable, occasionally leaving no room for a personal life, but
MANDARIN ORIENTAL | Jalan M.H. Thamrin, PO BOX 3392, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2993 8888 www.mandarinoriental.com/jakarta | Facebook: MandarinOrientalJakarta | Twitter: @mo _ jakarta
Sebastian now seems to have no worry about it anymore. “You do need to have a good balance in life, and I feel like I found it now,“ he says. “I am very fortunate that I lived not far from the hotel so I get to have the opportunity to play with my daughter, even for only five minutes.” In his spare time, he loves watching German football (naturally) and he used to play table tennis but now finds it hard to find the time—or place—to play it. But of course for him when going with the family to new places, also means updating his knowledge about the culinary scene. “I think the challenges in being a director of food and beverage worldwide is mostly the same,” says Sebastian. “The first challenge is finding young people who are passionate to become an F&B professional, be that chef or being a host. And the second challenge is to know the trends, to be innovative so that you don’t bring the same things that everybody else offers.” In the meantime, when it comes to his favorite food, he’s content with his old, just-as-usual menu. “Basically my base is Western food, and I am perfectly happy having a croissant and eggs,” he says.
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A F O O DI E ’ S L I F E
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TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
GUDEG BU TINAH by RIAN FARISA
G
ondangdia is no short of historic places to eat at. From street food to restaurants, these notable eateries share their part in Jakarta’s food history dated since as far as the early days of this country. From the street food, Gondangdia used to have Soto Betawi H. Ma’ruf here back before they relocated to Taman Ismail Marzuki in Cikini. From the restaurants, we have for example Cahaya Kota and its classical Chinese food which was a favorite of this Indonesia’s first president. One of the untold stories that we pursue this time is Gudeg Bu Tinah, which was unofficially started circa 1968. Inconspicuously located among the hawkers on the small street just beside the train station, the five-seater semi-permanent hawker sees no stopping of customers since early morning until late lunch time. The usual repertoire from Ibu Tinah’s traditional gudeg involves krecek, hard-boiled eggs, and chicken; but feel free to ask for a complete offering with the addition of tahu tempe bacem and also the exquisite chicken feet. Make no mistake, the hardcore fans of Gudeg Bu Tinah would specifically bypass the rest and only choose chicken feet with rice for lunch. Well, it is that special! Ibu Tinah’s experience with gudeg started when she was still 9 years old. Moving out to Jakarta may still be a scary experience for some until this modern age, but for Ibu Tinah, it was a must so she can support the livelihood of her family back in Yogyakarta. “I dropped out of school on my second grade and had since been helping my late aunt’s gudeg business on the nearby market here”, says Ibu Tinah starting her story. For almost two decades, the young Ibu Tinah gave her all to her aunt’s business from lifting the heavy rice pot, helping out with all the grinding and cooking, slaughtering the chicken, and also boiling hundreds of eggs every single day. She did that wholeheartedly and unwaveringly so that she can learn everything about the business. “After I got married, I told my aunt that I wanted to open my own gudeg business nearby. No matter how modest it would be or how hard the challenge is, it was a decision that I am ready to face”, she says. Instead of letting her go, her aunt decided to let Ibu Tinah inherit her business.
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Vigorous and forever young, Ibu Tinah hides behind her spirited façade an experience of selling gudeg for almost fifty years on the streets of Gondangdia. The Foodie Magazine travels there to seek out the story behind the making of this delicious dish.
While staunch opposition arose from the direct family, her aunt was already determined to let Ibu Tinah continue the legacy. Perhaps it was because of her hardship after the years - a fact that Ibu Tinah wishes to conceal out of modesty. “It was never easy in the beginning. We had to move around quite a bit but luckily we’re still in Gondangdia. To make things harder, some of my aunt’s family members started to extort some money from the business from time to time”, reminisces Ibu Tinah. “After some time, we decided to make our stance and defend our dignity. For the sake of our family relationship, it was water under the bridge for me but I don’t know for them though. Some things were already beyond repair”, says Ibu Tinah lamenting the situation. Nevertheless, she and her family have since continued to stride on with the gudeg business but only to receive another bump on the road. This time, it was tougher. “When my husband passed away, I closed down the business for quite some time”, she says. Never before Ibu Tinah had experienced a shocking blow like that. “It feels as if my many years of fighting were put to stop. Just like that. And I had no desire to move on from my grief.” After some months, her family started
to encourage her to restart the business again. Gradually, she saw this as a chance for her to move on and to restore again the glory she once had. “I assembled every member of my family, from my brothers and my daughters. They’re ready to assist in any way they can and were willing to move forward together”, remembers Ibu Tinah. Since then, they were unstoppable. Despite the modesty found from behind the warung, Ibu Tinah operates two outlets and cooks a huge batch of chicken and egg, all fresh every day. In addition to her daily business, she also undertakes orders for lunchboxes for events and companies. “My only regret was when I still had a chance, I could have bought a permanent small place for my business. With this condition now, me and fellow hawkers here will be in trouble once the government decides to purge the street clean. My best hope is to relocate to my other outlet so far”, admits Ibu Tinah. At the very least, her legacy is being safeguarded by her family well. Worse comes to worst, she would be only left with one outlet to do the business. Nevertheless, we can trust Ibu Tinah’s fighting spirit. As long as she can handle it, we won’t be running out of classic, good old street gudeg from the streets of Jakarta.
TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
OPENING HOURS: Daily, 6am – 2pm SPEND: IDR 20,000 – IDR 25,000 / person
GUDEG BU TINAH | Jalan Srikaya II (on the side of Gondangdia Station), Jakarta
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NASI ULAM PAK MISJAYA by RIAN FARISA
Fifty years in the business and still going strong, Pak Misjaya was more than welcome to share with The Foodie Magazine about how his nasi ulam captivates the hearts of many with originality and honesty.
N
early fifty years ago, as an adolescent teenager and like many Indonesians who were tempted to make a fortune in the capital city, Pak Misjaya jumped in on a train heading to Jakarta with only the clothes he’s wearing that time and not a single dime in his hands. “We knew we had to survive since day one and by the time I jumped off around Angke, I had to find work immediately”, says Pak Misjaya starting the story of his life. “That time people would ask, ‘Are you an honest person?’, and I would say yes of course. It was a point of no return for me and even before sending me out, my father said to me that I have to be an honest person no matter what. That has been my original intention even before heading to Jakarta”, he continues. His early days in Jakarta was spent on helping out a carpentry business with no payment at all. “That time what matters most is that I can eat to live the day. I could not ask for more”, says Pak Misjaya reminiscing. Not long, the fateful encounter arrives. The young Pak Misjaya during his walk around the Glodok area met an elderly Chinese who lifts his merchandise around, selling nasi ulam. Interested at what he’s doing and having the intention to help the man, he immediately offered his help. “At first he declined my offer but seeing that I really wanted to help, he decided to make me his apprentice”, he says. Empek Lam Seng, the nasi ulam business owner, was a Spartan teacher and also a father figure for him during his early years in Jakarta. Although he was initially only paid with meals and with all that hardship he had gone through to help him, Pak Misjaya’s eyes were brimming with spirit and his tone gave away such a spirit whenever he tells us the story about Lam Seng. It was destiny, the day when Pak Misjaya met him and he relishes that day even until this very moment.
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“One time he wanted me to grind the seasonings finely and did not stop me even it was already three hours. After I reported back to him, he said he was just testing me and laughed at me. Sialan!”, exclaims Pak Misjaya remembering that moment. Even until this day, he still keeps the practice of grinding the seasonings manually by hand. “A practice that makes the flavor of my nasi ulam different than the rest”, he adds. One day due to his old age, Lam Seng made a decision to inherit the business to Pak Misjaya. He financed Pak Misjaya with two baskets for his merchandise. At that time, hawker pushcarts were still uncommon and also expensive. With the baskets, hawkers had to lift their heavy merchandises around the neighborhood to sell them. Other than that, Pak Misjaya was also provided some capital to start with and a place to live in. “Just a week after that, he passed away and I was utterly crushed and saddened. How could such a generous old man, who taught me so much, leave us all so abruptly? I was forever indebted to his kindness”, tells Pak Misjaya. Even after all these years, you can still sense his grief. Not long after that, Indonesia was in the verge of a communist revolution. It was the years of living dangerously, but for Pak Misjaya, he was ready for the risks. His father had told him to exercise caution and not play sides, as he believed something big would happen soon. “You cannot leave your baskets unattended or otherwise there will be someone who might plant a weapon there. There’s no telling what will happen when you get caught by the security forces”, remembers Pak Misjaya. Long story short, he came out in one piece after those turbulent times. Years later Pak Misjaya became closer to the community and became the most wanted person for his delicious nasi ulam by everyone in the neighborhood.
“We all live harmoniously here. I had been allowed to sell my nasi ulam in front of this temple here for many years. Some customers have also been very supportive and because of them I can save up some money to buy a good pushcart.” However, his success didn’t come without challenges. For years the competition has been fierce, but with a single pushcart and a fifty-year-old recipe in his hands, Pak Misjaya has been entrusted to cater to the needs of big companies while also invited to participate in local and international food exhibitions. While the original recipe came from Betawi tradition, it turns out that his version was rather unique. The complete offering of Pak Misjaya’s nasi ulam consists of rice topped with stewed tofu, tempeh, potato, and hard-boiled egg; a slice of omelet; potato fritter; chopped salty cuttlefish; traditional beef jerky; and two kinds of crackers. “Everything came from my old man’s recipe and the use of beef jerky is that one clear-cut than the usual nasi ulam. On top of that, without proper seasoning and correct techniques in frying it, you won’t get a good beef jerky”, adds Pak Misjaya. I was left astonished. Even though with such extensive offerings like that, I can’t stop digging the nasi ulam. The silky sweet stew broth was the key to the harmony and the rest of the toppings shone with their distinct characters. The beef jerky was well seasoned, sweet, and juicy. His nasi ulam is unlike anything I have ever tasted anywhere else. Out of this world! From Pak Misjaya we learned that despite the duress from challenges or the uneasy times that we had to go through, it is paramount to be always committed with hardworking ethics and honesty. The effort to preserve the recipe and customers are also no less important. Fifty years is no mere number, it is an achievement that only some are up for. Pak Misjaya is one of them.
TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
OPENING HOURS: Daily, 4pm – 10pm SPEND: IDR 25,000 – IDR 50,000 / person
NASI ULAM PAK MISJAYA | Jalan Kemenangan III (in front of Toasebio Temple), Jakarta
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TRIED AND TESTED
W EBBER >< T H E FOODIE
Easy and Simple Pindang Serani Kakap
by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON
Indonesian culinary expert William Wongso share a number of simple and traditional dishes using the many Webber Asia appliance line.
W
hen looking for kitchen appliances for the home, it is important to know what dishes you prepare and what appliances are suitable. I have seen many homes wherein they have a ‘show’ kitchen, with the modern appliances and conveniences but also a ‘dirty’ kitchen where traditional dishes are cooked. In partnering with Webber Asia, Om William has created a number of traditional Indonesian dishes using the various appliances of the Webber Asia line, to prove that you can use modern appliances to cook traditional dishes. Om William shares with us his recipe of Pindang Serani Kakap or Red Snapper in Fragrant Soup. First and foremost, it is easy to cook at home, through its simplicity, our readers may be encouraged to cook it at home. Plus the dish is light, refreshing and healthy. Om William tells us that you can use a whole fish or fish fillet cut into cubes. To give the dish added depth of flavor or variety, you can also add prawns, clams or shellfish. Another variation may be to use sour carambola (asam cikala)or the fruit of the torch ginger to give a more fragrant and sour flavor to the soup. Om William stresses that you should use this instead of regular tamarind so that the soup’s clarity remains consistent, which is a trait of the Pindang Serani. Watch this space for other recipes from Webber Asia and for information for their next free cooking classes. The Foodie Magazine will collaborate with Webber Asia for cooking demonstrations and other events in the coming months, so watch out for these.
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B R O U G H T TO Y O U B Y W E B B E R
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TRIED AND TESTED
RED SNAPPER IN FRAGRANT SOUP Serves: 1
INGREDIENTS:
100 g Red Snapper Fillet 3 pcs Shallots, sliced 2 pcs Garlic gloves, sliced 3 pcs Galanggal, sliced 1 pcs Lemongrass 2 pcs Kaffir lime leaves 1 pcs Lime 5 pcs Chili Paddy 4 pcs Sliced Turmeric 1 cup Water 2 tbs Cooking oil 1 tsp Salt 1 tsp Pepper
STEPS
• Saute all the spices in oil, making sure they are able to sweat. • Add water, season with salt and pepper, squeeze in the juice of the lime and add the chili paddy. • Simmer the broth.
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B R O U G H T TO Y O U B Y W E B B E R • Deep fry the fish • Drain the oil from the fish, and add it to the boiling broth.
Webber BI 4604B Induction Hob FAST, POWERFUL & PRECISE COOKING CONTROLS Webber induction hobs allow you to prepare all kinds of cuisines with its adaptable cooking power. With up to 9 heat settings, you can choose the most gentle (50w) for melting chocolates to the most intense (2500w) for deep-frying or fast boiling. Due to its instantaneous rise temperature, the boiling point is achieved at least twice faster than conventional hobs!
• To plate, take out the fish and place into a soup bowl, strain the soup and pour over the fish. - Serve with rice or sweet potato.
CONSTANT & UNIFORM HEAT The heat generated on induction cooking is uniform and even, making I ideal for preparing pancakes, crepes as well as fast searing of red meat with its constant and intense heat! SIMPLE & EASY TO USE Webber Induction Hobs are pleasant and easy to use due to its cool cooking surface and sleek design with no protrusions. Spills and stains are easily removed and cleaning is a breeze. With a 99 min. timer that automatically switches the cooking zone off, there is no need to watch over your cooking!
For more information on stock list, visit Webber Gallery today! WEBBER GALLERY Jl. Gatot Subroto Kav. 53. 7th Floor Jakarta 10260 Tel: +62 53677702 marketing@kitchenatalier.co.id AUTHORIZED RETAILER Jakarta – Best Denki, Best Price, Rumahku, @Rumahku, Ligne Rich Surabaya – Hartono Electronic, Tirtayasa Lestari Medan – Galleria Semarang – The House of Sanitary
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STUFF OF LEGENDS
Tetsuya Wakuda
– Taking Japanese Cuisine to New Heights by JED DOBLE photographs by MARINA BAY SANDS/WAKU GHIN AND HIMAWAN SUTANTO
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STUFF OF LEGENDS
Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 50 Best Restaurants recently named Waku Ghinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chef Tetsuya Wakuda as their 2015 Lifetime Achievement Awardee, a fitting tribute to a legend in the culinary industry.
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STUFF OF LEGENDS
J
apanese-born Tetsuya Wakuda moved to Sydney in 1982, he was then twenty-two years old, had a limited knowledge of English, and came with a single suitcase and his tremendous love of food. Who would have known then that he would become one of the world’s most loved chefs. He began as a kitchen hand and a year later became a sushi chef for renowned Sydney chef Tony Bilson at Kinsela’s. While here he learned classical French techniques and and began to develop his own style of cooking. Today, the combination of classic methods together with the simplicity and seasonality of Japanese cuisine are the hallmarks of Tetsuya’s cooking. After he left Kinsela’s, Tetsuya in partnership with the head waiter, opened Ultimo’s. Not only until 1989 did his dream of opening his eponymous place, Tetsuya’s, came to fruition, when he opened on a small site in the Sydney suburb of Rozelle. In 2000, Tetsuya’s relocated to the now famous refurbished heritage-listed site at 529 Kent Street in the Sydney CBD, now designed to his specifications, complete with dining rooms overlooking an exquisite Japanese garden. Chef Tetsuya’s gentle and unassuming personality is reflected in his cooking. Whether it be Botan shrimp, New Zealand scampi, ocean trout or sea urchin, he enhances them with subtle yet elegant, eastern flourishes. His cooking style is fresh and uncomplicated with concentrating on boosting flavors and not smothering the main ingredient. “We take the best produce, do very little to them, and enhance their flavors. No more, no less,” Tetsuya explains. With his own style of cooking, Tetsuya is probably one of the most famous Japanese chefs worldwide. He is always proud to promote Japanese cuisine was honoured to
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be selected as the Japanese sake industry’s first overseas Sake Samurai (or ambassador) in 2006. And in 2013, Tetsuya was honored by the Japanese government, as the first ever internationally based chef to be bestowed the tile of Japan’s Master of Cuisine. In 2010, Tetsuya embarked upon an exciting culinary venture in Singapore. He opened Waku Ghin, is located in the spectacular Marina Bay Sands complex. Here he continues to demonstrate the evolution of his cuisine with his modern, versatile European-Japanese cooking. It is perhaps largely thanks to him that high-end Japanese food is now so embraced and celebrated across the world. The name ‘Waku Ghin’ is derived from two Japanese words: ‘Waku’ which means to ‘arise’ (like water pouring forth from a hot spring) and ‘Ghin’ meaning ‘silver’, which is Chef Tetsuya’s signature color found throughout the restaurant space. In each of the restaurant’s private rooms, a chef rings forward the season’s best produce to the Chef’s Table, which include signatures such as the Marinated Botan Shrimp with Sea Urchin and Caviar and Wagyu with Wasabi and Citrus Soy. Guests are then escorted to the main dining room for desserts and coffee while soaking in sensational views of the Singapore skyline. Chef Tetsuya tells me that for Waku Ghin, he imports majority of the ingredients from Japan. “I love cooking with seafood. 80-90% of the menu is seafood. I will use only the freshest produce and ingredients every time.” Our discussion gravitates to food trends. We observe that in the last five years, the food has come back to basics. “Now people are looking towards simplicity and the focus of food has been on technique. I always want to just enhance the flavor of the food,” Chef Tetsuya shares. “Now more and
more, the focus is where the food comes from, the use of organic produce and back to natural.” Chef Tetsuya goes on to recounts what Chef Ferran Adria of El Bulli told him during his visit to Singapore last year: “Brother, you should always keep doing what you do. Do not change your style of cooking.” During my short conversation with Chef Tetsuya you see how genuinely simple and passionate he is with food and his work. He is encouraged by young cooks and chefs who work with him and he is able to see the same passion in them. He shares that he is encouraged to open a pastry shop since he has met a young chef who has the drive and the passion for pastry and maybe even a chocolatier is joining the group. “I see young chefs who work hard and try very hard to do their best. I am encouraged by them. If someone has a dream and a passion, if I can help, then I will help.” He says he will try to support these young and passionate people to grow in the food and beverage business. Unlike thirty or forty years ago, the cooking profession was looked down upon, now it has become a respected profession and young people are getting into it. He wants to support them and help them grow. The awarding of Chef Tetsuya Wakuda as the recipient of the Lifetime Achievement Award for his life-long dedication to the industry by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants is a testament to his passion and love for food. “My culinary journey has been nothing short of amazing since I first stumbled into cooking at the age of 22 in Sydney. This is a great honour and recognition for the talented team at Waku Ghin. I am humbled and thankful for the support from my team, our friends and Marina Bay Sands. We look forward to continue delivering the finest experience to our guests.”
STUFF OF LEGENDS
WAKU GHIN | L2-01, Atrium 2 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, Singapore | T: +65 6688 8507 Facebook: wakughin | Twitter: @wakughin
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PA N T R Y 1 0 1
Do You Know Your Knives? by KYLE GREGORIO
Back when you were still a kid and you were watching your mother cook in the kitchen, ever wonder why there were so many knives on the knife block? What they were called and what their purpose for was? Below, we name and describe a few that might help you in your next cooking escapade.
Santoku These popular Japanese style Santoku knives are handy in the kitchen. These all-purpose knives can chop, slice, and dice – effectively they are the Japanese version of a kitchen knife. Santoku knives with a fluted blade (sometimes called a granton edge or hollow edge) allow food to easily slip off the blade.
Boning A boning knife is a knife that you use after your carving knife, so after you’ve done your carving and you’re getting in and you need to do some closer work that’s where your boning knife comes in. So the boning knife is used for trimming around the bones and so forth, also if you’re cleaning the chicken or turkey and you’re breaking it up into parts, your boning knife would be your knife you would want to use.
Carving A carving knife is a larger knife with a keen edge, used to carve slices of meat from roasts, hams or poultry. Carving knives usually have a straight edge, rather than a serrated one. The blade is a bit shorter and wider than a slicing knife, although they are longer than a regular kitchen knife. A carving knife has a much thinner blade than a kitchen knife, which also enables it to cut thin slices of meat.
PA N T R Y 1 0 1
Fillet Having a fillet knife or two around the kitchen is a very good idea. With a thin flexible blade that is ideal for filleting fish, this knife can also be used for several other applications as well. Along with a blade that is thin and flexible, the fillet knife has a handle that is often made of stainless steel or sealed hardwood. This makes caring for the knife very easy. Washing it with hot soapy water will have the knife ready for use quickly.
Chef The chef’s knife is a wider bladed knife. It’s for doing a large quantity knife, usually in a chopping or semi-rocking position. So you’ll have a wider blade, than a carving knife or a regular utility that will be narrower. This way you have more finger clearance so when you put the knife down and you go to use it, you can rock with it and your fingers won’t cut. A lot of chefs will put their fingers up against it and as long as your fingers are high enough you’re not going to hit the edge on it. And that way you can chop really fine.
Utility Utility knives are something of a catchall category for highly versatile, multi-function knives in the middle size range. Similar to paring and petty knives these knives can be used at home in the hand or on the cutting board and with practically any food product. Use these knives for paring fruits and vegetables, carving cooked meats, or boning meats before cooking.
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W H AT C H E F E AT S
EMMANUEL JULIO by RIAN FARISA
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es, you got that right. It’s either erwten soup or this one. If you choose the latter, then it might come with different writings. However, any answer is deemed correct. The bruine bonen soep, bruine boon soup or simply brenebon soup, is an interesting heritage of crossover cuisines between Manadoan and influences that came from colonial Dutch. It comprises of the string beans, beef or pork, and some herbs. It is light but also filling. “I always eat it with rice, naturally!” admits Chef Julio. Chef Emmanuel Julio himself is the CDC of Sriwijaya Restaurant from The Dharmawangsa Jakarta, who would choose no other dish apart from this one. For him, it has that nostalgic value and a degree of simplicity that you would crave from time to time. “Usually for Christmas, I would ask my mother to cook this for the whole family. Why do I like it so much? I guess it’s because this is one of my earliest food and I always remember the taste that makes me love it until now”, says the chef poetically. During Christmas for Manadoan families, people are usually serving Western-influenced dishes and bruine bonen soep is among the must-have for the festivity. “The memory of feasting together with the whole family on the dining table back then gave more reason for me to love the soup more”, he adds. Speaking about the chef’s career in the kitchen, Chef Julio spent his tenure in several places from Jakarta
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As a true Manadoan, there can only be one dish that resides deep in the heart of Chef Emmanuel Julio. Clue for you – it is a soup and came from European influence. Surely you can already guess what it is.
to Dubai before anchoring here at The Dharmawangsa. Once he was working under the tutelage of the illustrious Chef Vindex Tengker here and years before at Four Seasons Jakarta. Now brought under the wings of the experienced Executive Chef Felix Budisetiawan, he’s responsible for preserving the hotel’s famous approach with progressive Indonesian cuisine and Sriwijaya’s latest creative initiative on luxurious omakase dining. Thanks to his talents and experience, Chef Julio is also being groomed as the hotel’s next Executive Chef.