THE FOODIE MAGAZINE JUNE 2015 by Bold Prints

SUGAR RUSH INSIDE

JUN15 | volume 2, Issue 06 Rp. 55,000 | S$ 8.00

Janice Wong, Chef Artist Dominique Ansel, Beyond Cronuts The Big Apple Pies For The Love of Chocolate

Be Naturally Beautiful “Being happy, healthy and beautiful is easy with Éternel Concept’s lifestyle treatments.” - Ina Thomas

É TERNEL CONCEP T Jalan Gunawarman No.16, 2nd floor Kebayoran Baru - Jakarta Selatan 021.722.9502 | 0821.1060.3082 info@eternelconcept.com

P U B L I S H E R ’ S N OT E

Publisher (TA)

Richmond Blando

Publisher Jed V. Doble Managing Editor

Kyle Gregorio

Art Director

Juke Bachtiar

Sugar Rush I am all excited and giddy for this month’s issue! And its not just because of all the sweets and sugar I have personally consumed in making the issue. As an avowed chocolate and sweet fiend, dessert is the one meal course that I truly look forward to. Reading this Dessert Issue will definitely give you a sugar rush! First up, our New York writer-at-large, Adithya Pratama, writes about Dominique Ansel, of cronut fame, his new New York venue and his fondness of including time as an ingredient to his desserts. Next I get to speak to Chef Janice Wong, of 2am:deserter in Singapore ahead of her appearance at the Ubud Food Festival. The UFF is an exciting new event from the same group which hosts the annual Ubud Writers and Readers Festival. We will be heading to Ubud and will report back on all the great food we taste and people we meet in next month’s issue. We also feature Chefs Cory Meilika and Darryl Iswaratioso of Cacaote and their love for chocolate. We also report on the opening of Talita Setyadi’s Beau at Plaza Indonesia, and share a Honey-Strawberry Tart recipe by Chef Christina Min. And our favorite New York pastry chef, Deden Putra, spends a day with us at Central Park, showing off his Summer pies. There are lots more, cakes, pastries and desserts in this issue, to many to write about here. I hope you are all as excited as we are for this issue. Let us know what you think.

Photographer

Dennie Ramon

Contributors

Himawan Sutanto Adithya Pratama Akhmad Baihaki (Aki) Sahiri Loing Dita Wistarini Y. Rian Farisa Gupta Sitorus Primo Rizky

Administration

Boedy Astuti

Distribution

Mukti Pelupessy

Enjoy the desserts! JED V. DOBLE PT. NUSA BINTANG LESTARI Jl. Gunawarman no. 16 • Kebayoran Baru South Jakarta • Indonesia Tel: +62 21 2905 3959 www.thefoodiemag.com

SUGAR RUSH INSIDE

Janice Wong, Chef Artist Dominique Ansel, Beyond Cronuts The Big Apple Pies For The Love of Chocolate

JUN15 | volume 2, Issue 06 Rp. 55,000 | S$ 8.00

Photograph by HIMAWAN SUTANTO

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The Foodie Magazine is published monthly by Bold Prints Publishing. Jalan Gunawarman No. 16, Jakarta, Indonesia. The Foodie Magazine and its logo are registered trademarks of Bold Prints Publishing. COPYRIGHT 2015. The Publisher reserves the right to accept or reject all editorial and advertising material. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or copied without the explicit written consent of the Publisher. Neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any error and omission, nor any action taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All rights reserved. ISSN: 2355-0198.

C O N T R I B U TO R S

HIMAWAN SUTANTO

ADITHYA PRATAMA

Photographer

Writer

Himawan did portraiture for editorial, advertising and design clients for many years and also had a stint doing commercial photography. His love for food and travel brought him naturally to turn his lens on food and lifestyle which he thoroughly enjoys. He has recently been traveling to take photos for a global hotel chain. When not away shooting photos he tries to spend as much time with his newborn son.

After two diplomas in pastry and bakery arts, Adithya left the kitchen and began writing and styling for magazines about his one and only passion: food. While still contributing for magazines in Indonesia, Adithya is now living in New York City pursuing a degree in Food Studies while queueing for Broadway shows every wednesday. Join his mouth-watering adventures on Instagram @adith1801

AKHMAD BAIHAKI (AKI)

SAHIRI LOING

DITA WISTARINI Y.

RIAN FARISA

Entusiastic and dedicated Aki has been a professional photographer for over 10 years now. Originally from Mojokerto, East Java, in his spare time, he loves to travel, watch and play his favorite sports and listen to music.

Venturing outside his comfort zone of office life, Sahiri now spends his time working as a freelance writer for the fun part of life. His love of movies and dining out keeps him busy in his spare time.

Started from her food blog in 2006, Dita shared her passion in food photography and styling that eventually led to two books that she co-authored with four other food bloggers. After 7 years in Kuwait, Dita and her family moved to Queens, New York and explore the artistry of the city. Visit her work at pinodita.com/ dita and her instagram: @ditut.

Once a foodie, always a foodie. Rian started his popular food blog gastronomy-aficionado. com in 2009. He has since become a culinary contributor for lifestyle and inflight magazines and newspapers. His job ranges from having intriguing conversations with celebrity chefs to memorizing the French names of Michelin-starred dishes he encounters. But at the end of the day he enjoys his scouring the city for good soul food with his beloved wife.Â Â

THE GUEST LIST Photographer

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Writer

Photographer

Writer

GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY Writers

This dynamic duo has always had a strong passion for food. They decided to enter the culinary industry in 2012 by launching their handcrafted gourmet ice cream brand, although none of them had prior culinary experience. Both have day jobs, Gupta works as country communications manager for the global leader in power and automation technologies, while Primo, heads Studio Geometry, an independent publishing house that focuses on creative culture.

TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

The Foodie magazine volume 2, Issue 06

Things That Make You Go Yum 12 Sugar Rush

Publisher’s Corner 14 Sweet History

The Foodie’s List 16 18 20 22 24 25 26 28

A Beau Life Heavenly Chocolate Cool Treats for Hot Days Fire & Ice At The Ubud Food Festival Welcome The New Comers SATOO Deli Delivery Warung Turki Ramadan 1436H Celebrations

Cover Feature 32 38 42 48 52 56 60

Beyond Cronuts The Chef as an Artist For the Love of Chocolate The Exact Science of Pastry The Big Apple Pies A Master Patissiere’s Happiness Passion with Simplicity

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TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

Went There Ate That 64 Sweet Treats From Gorontalo

Finer Things 66 The Competetive Chef

Tried And Tipsied 70 Fun with Rum

Special Section 74 A Food-filled 4th of July

Taking It To The Streets 80 Rujak Es Krim & Es Podeng Mamat (Acoeng) 82 Sweet and Simple

Iconic 84 Fatty Goodness

Confessions Of A Foodie 86 William Sudhana

Tried And Tested 88 Fermented Cassava Muffins

Stuff Of Legends 92 Haryanto Makmoer â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Master Baker

Pantry 101 96 Beat The Heat

What Chef Eats 98 Ayu Anjani Rahardjo

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T H I N G S T H AT M A K E Y O U G O Y U M by JED DOBLE

Things That Make You Go Yum is monthly column featuring our choices of the best food photos on Instagram. If you think you have a great photo worth sharing with us, tag it with #TTMYGY and @TheFoodieMag

@atableforfatkids

@dedenputrany

@adieguno @devianavd

@eat.major

@diana.komala @insidevansbelly @gracetedjomuljono

@helloeskimomo @jsarisiregar

@keikhaira 12 | www. thefoodiemag.com

@msgraciaroselle

T H I N G S T H AT M A K E Y O U G O Y U M Who does not break-out with a big smile when presented a lovely, sweet and colorful dessert? This month, we choose some of the best dessert posts from our friends on Instagram.

@nathanscheesecakes @pinnsyl

@myinnerfatkidisout @sepotongkue

@stefiprimawati

@rezaeats

@winawilanisa

@talitasetyadi @yfifinella

@vonnywu @miverva _ lp

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P U B L I S H E R ’ S CO R N E R

Sweet History by RICHMOND BLANDO

There’s always room for dessert – Everyone

ave you even wondered when desserts ever came to be invented? I’ve traveled to and met people from almost every prevailing culture and somehow sweets and desserts will always be present in one form or another. While most of its popularity dated from the west’s colonization or invasion of the other countries in their quest for spices, it can be considered as fact, that during the middle ages the main forms of sweeteners were honey since it was readily available. Unfortunately, like most of the world, recorded history, have never been the strong suit of eastern cultures, at least not when it comes to public knowledge. Back in the west, the term “desserts”, was never really coined from sweet dishes, in fact, the original French term is “desservir” which meant to “un-serve” or to clean up the table. Before the discovery of sugar, eel in marzipan and goose-liver macaroons were actually served in the buffet table, even anchovy salads were served along side sugar dusted cream pies, most likely to provide contrasting flavors of salt and sweetness. Since most of the dishes were served all at once, or as it was popularly known as “service à la française,” it was not until the late 17th century where one dish followed another, known as “service à la russe,” became more popular and later on this gave birth to dessert courses, since the first dish was un-served or cleaned up. The serving of sweet dishes after the main course just became a natural preference and occurrence.

WESTERN DESSERTS IN THE MIDDLE AGES 15th Century: Rich people ate desserts like preserved fruits, jelly and wafers made from batter. Furthermore the Italians have been eating panettone since at least the 15th century but its origins are lost in legend.

18th Century: Mousse was invented.

16th Century: Sugar was expensive so most people used honey to sweeten their food.

NON-DESSERTS Rhubard, or the “pie plant” has a very sour taste, but when mixed with a lot of sugar, gives a very contrasting flavor, which is perfect for dessert fillings. But back then it was originally cultivated for medicinal purposes. Originally, marshmallows, where white flowers found in the, you guessed it, the

17th Century: Barley sugar became a common ingredient and bread and butter pudding also became a common dish along with the creation of yoghurt. England also began eating Ice cream, how they got it is another story.

19th Century: Puddings took on their modern ‘sweet’ form, with the Industrial Revolution the mass production of cakes and jelly began.

P U B L I S H E R ’ S CO R N E R marsh, this too were for medicinal purposes. Licorice, were also used for medicine and cocoa was used as a spice for drinks and it was not until someone mixed it with sugar and milk that chocolate was actually “born.” MEANWHILE… In Asia, sweet dishes were considered as snacks more than desserts. Ice cream as it was mentioned earlier, found its origins from China, in the form of very fine shaved ice mixed with coconut milk, which today, can be found in many different forms in many East Asian cultures (es campur, halo halo, etc). Jellies, rice

puddings and sweet soups were items served in the middle of the day, usually under the summer sun. India, or South Asian cuisine is bit more unique as half of their food is either desserts or sweets. The Middle Eastern sweets, are a gamut of unconfirmed history, for example, dishes like the baklava is associated with Turkey and the Ottoman empire, but historians claim that it started with the Assyrians in the 8th century as they would take filo pastry, stuff it with nuts and pour honey over it. Years later, neighboring cultures would take the recipe, improve it and then claim it as their own. LET THEM EAT CAKE! Lastly, here is a little something that we can all attribute to the western cultures. Cake was short for a Norse word, “kaka”, which was pronounced as ‘keh-ka’ and they were all mainly ginger breads and fruitcakes (which lasted for months.) It was not until the 19th century, when the inventions of processed sugars, baking powders and refined flour came to the scene that the cakes that we know and love, complete with icing and confectioneries, became a regular guest in celebratory parties. Ancient cakes were purposely fashioned into specific shapes, according to the observance. Cakes are served at special occasions (birthdays, weddings, holidays, funerals), round shapes generally symbolize the cyclical nature of life, because they represent the best culinary offering when refined sugar, spices, nuts, and dried fruit were expensive, it was an honor to be honored with cake. Today, the message remains constant, “you’re important and we love you.”

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F O O DI E L I S T S

A Beau Life by SAHIRI LOING photographs by DENNIE RAMON

Pastry chef, Talita Setyadi, has started a noble mission when she finally decided to have her own shop, Beau. Find out what it is.

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alking to pastry chef Talita Setyadi, sometimes you get the feeling that you don’t really need to write an article about her—just write down all the things she says and, voila!, the piece writes for itself. Take for instance the broached upon subject of jazz music in the middle of our conversation about food. “Jazz is an art form that is purely created for the sake of music, for the sake of creativity,” she started. “It’s a combination of musical instruments and it takes hours and hours of practice and performing in order to create that sound. Same can be said to food.” Her eloquent words sounds as free-styling as jazz music is. (And that was a shortened version.) You might think she’s pretentious but she actually got a music degree to back her up! She’s a Bachelor of Music majoring in Jazz Performance on the Double Bass from the University of Auckland, New Zealand, but despite her revels in jazz-dom she finally found her forte when she studied culinary in the prestigious Cordon Bleu in Paris and that experience has led her to the idea of opening up her own pastry shop. Introducing: the recently opened Beau located at the hot spot of Plaza Indonesia. “I got the idea to open my own shop because I was dissapointed in what the bakeries here in Indonesia have to offer,” she says. “They used many preservatives, artificial coloring, and—most heinous of them all—bread improvers that makes the bread appear plump but when you squeeze the bread it deflates. It’s really misleading. So then I said to myself, if you want something done correctly, then do it yourself.” And that she did. Beau is miniature in size compared to other pastry/bakery shops but size seems to be the least of her worries—the quality of the product comes first. “I want my product to have the same quality as [the ones] overseas,” she says. “For instance our croissants: people might say it looks overtoasted but that’s because we use one hundred percent butter that has zero water content which in turn makes it crispier.” And, most importantly, they’re all preservatives and coloring-free. My personal favorite, the delightful pandangan cake, which combines the homey and familiar

taste of pandan and mung beans, uses gula jawa to make it sweet. Beau’s—which is divided into three sections: pattiserie, artisan bread, and viennoiserie—so far only offer takeaway service but the reason is not because of its modest size. “I want customers to only focus on the products and not get distracted with the services,” Talita says. “That can happen, you know: you can have great products but then a customer complains because of unsatisfactory service. Quality ingredients is also a top priority and of course that means excluding artificial additions. “I don’t want to compromise quality,” she continues. “I want to make food that I can feed to my own children.” The 26-year-old character certainly seems poised to run her own business. She’s determinant, focused, well-spoken, creative, and this last one might be the deal-clincher: she dislikes authority. “After graduating from Cordon Bleu I worked in small bakeries in France but it didn’t work out because I had problems with my supervisors there,” she curtly admits. Perhaps her headstrong attitude has spilled over to her firm view on recipemaking, and sometimes it’s not at all about trying to make something your own. “Of course there is that challenge of trying to recreate a recipe, but to do that you have to learn the fundamentals,” she says. “And there are also things that you cannot change. Like if you’re making a proper croissants the ingredients should remain the same, otherwise it will affect the taste and the texture.” She then continues with the three key principles of baking that she lived by: “First, you have to respect the technique. The pastries I made here can be considered a homage to what works best before and that’s because there’s a specific technique in how you make it; second, you have to respect the ingredients, you have to know each of God’s bounty and learn its particular use so that you can make something out of it; and third, you have to respect the customers by giving them food that is free of artificial ingredients. I believe that eventually my customers can tell the difference between what’s real and what’s not—it’s a matter of education.”

F O O DI E L I S T S

BEAU | Plaza Indonesia, Basement Floor, Jalan MH Thamrin, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2992 4257 Facebook: beaujkt | Instagram: @beaujkt

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F O O DI E L I S T S

Heavenly Chocolate by JED DOBLE photographs by MARINA BAY SANDS

Pamper yourself with a luxurious chocolate and cheese buffet, 55 storeys high atop Marina Bay Sands.

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F O O DI E L I S T S

housands of years ago, the Mayans, Toltecs, and Aztecs consumed chocolate as a frothy, bitter brew flavored with spices and chili. This started to change in the 16th century when early Spanish settlers in Mexico brought sugar and started experimenting to create their first cup of sweet, hot chocolate. This sweet version became popular and travelled across Europe, and for years to come, hot chocolate became the drink of choice among royalty and the upper crust of society. In the 19th century, advances in technology paved the way for the first chocolate bar, cocoa powder and thus other various forms of chocolate. Meanwhile, we already have so many other exciting ways to enjoy chocolate these days. The supermarkets offer a wide range of chocolate bars from wellestablished brands. At Marina Bay Sands, for more artisan offers, a trip to SweetSpot will provide an assortment of truffles, molded

hollow figures and designer bonbons, fine patisseries and chocolate cakes. For chocolate lovers, one destination at Marina Bay Sands which should not be missed is their Cheese and Chocolate Bar. The popular dessert bar has recently been moved to The Club, the hotel’s exclusive lounge on the 55th floor of Tower 2. It is an inviting spot for after-dinner desserts and drinks long into the night, as guests enjoy the views while indulging in a spread of more than 40 chocolate-themed desserts and 12 types of premium European cheese with wine pairing options. The spread has been enhanced recently by new Executive Pastry Chef Anthony Poh, a veteran with over 17 years of experience in several five star establishments in Macau, Beijing, Sydney and Singapore. Anthony and his team have handcrafted a vast array of whimsical desserts that pairs chocolate with surprising flavours such as the Milk Chocolate Blue Cheese Cream with thyme foam verrine and the Alpaco Dark

MARINA BAY SANDS | 10 Bayfront Avenue, Singapore 018956 | T: +65 6688 8868 www.MarinaBaySands.com  | Facebook: Marina Bay Sands | Twitter: @marinabaysands

Chocolate Mousse with vanilla infused virgin olive oil verrine. The Bar also features creations using seasonal ingredients, such as the such as the Passion Fruit White Chocolate Mousse Cake. The Club offers stunning unobstructed views of the city skyline and Gardens by the Bay, in an elegant indoor setting. Stylish and sophisticated, The Club’s spacious interiors are designed based on the architecture of Marina Bay Sands. Guests are able to marvel at the iconic architecture with a close-up view of the underbelly of the magnificent Sands SkyPark. The patterns and lines seen on the metal underbelly are repeated on the walls, floors and carpets at The Club. Metal rods in satin and mirror polish adorn one side of the wall, as a design nod towards the glittery city view. So for a completely lavish chocolate trip, make your way to the Cheese and Chocolate Bar at Marina Bay Sands for the ultimate chocoholic’s experience.

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F O O DI E L I S T S

Cool Treats for Hot Days by GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY

ur pride and ego as ice cream makers was challenged when we were assigned to write a review on the best ice cream in Jakarta. To us, it was more than just a review, since it required our integrity to stay objective and to be honest to ourselves. Thus, it

MILKBAR Ruko Cordoba, Blok F No. 3 Bukit Golf Mediterania Jalan Marina Indah Raya, Pantai Indah Kapuk, Jakarta T: +62 858 94037723 Facebook:milkbarindo Instagram: @the _ milkbar Pantai Indah Kapuk, in North Jakarta, has recently gained popularity as a dessert enclave, marked by the emergence of numerous dessert houses, including Milkbar. This ice cream parlor, which opened last year, offers artisanal gelato with an extensive choice of flavors. Can’t decide if you want single scoop or double scoop?

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This month, we’ve sent our resident ice cream experts to help us choose the best cold treats in the city.

is not after weeks of researching and contemplating - aside from the sad fact that it was indeed not easy to find cafes or ice cream parlors that serve excellent ice creams in town - that we finally were to make a list of our favorite destinations to satisfy your craving for frozen desserts.

Why not mix them into your personal sundae? Yep, Milkbar also has special sundae with options for topping, including Marie Regal biscuits and breakfast cereal. One of the most unique flavor offered at Milkbar is Sea Salt, a surprisingly pleasant combination of milky sweetness and hint of salty taste. Besides Sea Salt, we also love their rendition of the all-time favorite chocolate bar, Kinder Bueno. The chocolate tastes rich and the addition of chopped wafer makes the flavor even more exciting. Make sure you also ask for the flavors of the week when you drop by Milkbar because they change this special menu every week.

POPBAR Lotte Shopping Avenue - LG & 4th Floor Jalan Prof. Dr. Satrio Kav 3 & 5 www.pop-bar.co.id Facebook: popbarindonesia Twitter & Instagram: @popbarID Gelato on a stick? It may sounds unusual, because gelato is normally served in a cup or cone. However, at Popbar they turn gelato into popsicles! This ice cream parlor chain currently operates a number of outlets throughout Jakarta, all of which are located in shopping malls. Popbar offers a wide variety of ice cream flavors, from the classic chocolate and vanilla, to more exquisite flavors such as banana, coconut, pistachio, and gianduia (hazelnut chocolate). If you care about the calories, you can opt for lighter popsicles which they call sorbetto. Popbar’s sorbetto are made with real fruit and come in exotic flavors such as papaya, guava, apricot, peach, watermelon, and passion fruit. Our favorite popsicle flavor here is gianduia dipped in dark chocolate and covered with chopped pistachio. The bittersweet dark chocolate and savory bits of chopped pistachio perfectly wrap the satisfying rich flavor that comes from the intense chocolate and nutty hazelnut.

F O O DI E L I S T S CONVIVIUM Jalan Panglima Polim 9 No. 1 Jakarta T: +62 21 7269809 Facebook: conviviumdeli @conviviumdeli If you often have trouble deciding which ice cream flavor to choose, Convivium might have just the right solution. They have what they call a Gelato Platter, which consists of 10 mini gelato scoops in different sensational flavors: Red Velvet, Vanilla Balsamico, Squid Ink, Orange Basil, Lychee, Lime Rosemary, Risotto Mascarpone, Earl Grey, Strawberry Chili, and Bacon. We recommend you start with the relatively mild flavored gelato, such as Vanilla Balsamico or Earl Grey, before proceeding to the more intense flavors like Risotto Mascarpone, Squid Ink, or Bacon. Lastly you can have the fresh tasting ice creams to refresh your palate, such as Orange Basil or Lime Rosemary.

BENEDICT Grand Indonesia East Mall LG #37-#39 Jalan M.H. Thamrin No. 1 Jakarta T: +62 21 2358 1238 Twitter & Instagram: @benedictjakarta This restaurant is popular for its all-day breakfast, but do you know that they also serve appealing ice creams? Chef Ivan Wibowo, who is responsible for creating

the desserts, presents ice cream custard in some very interesting flavors, such as Apple Pie, Black Sesame, Salted Caramel, and even the sophisticated yet comforting Maple & Bacon ice cream. One of our favorites here is Apple Pie, which is a deconstructed version of the dessert that consists of light cinnamon ice cream, fresh apple compote, and buttery and slightly spicy cinnamon crumble. Try

a spoonful of this dessert and you will be convinced that you have just tasted a bite of apple pie. You must also try the Black Sesame ice cream. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be intimidated by the black color of this dessert, because you will be satisfied by the subtle yet toasty flavor of black sesame. Try to match this ice cream with crusted white sesame tuile and black cookie crumbs to create fun and pleasing texture contrast.

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F O O DI E L I S T S

Fire & Ice At The Ubud Food Festival

The Ubud Food Festival gathers some of the best chefs in the world, including Dave Pynt of Burnt End and dessert wunderkind, Will Goldfarb of Room4Desserts fame who will be having a cooking session together entitled “Fire and Ice”. Take a peek of what they have to offer.

by SAHIRI LOING photographs by AKI AND BURNT ENDS

fter sweatin’ it at the worldrenowned Asador Etxebarri in Spain, Dave Pynt decided to transfer his newfound knowledge of the science of coal and smoke into his own restaurant, the highly-acclaimed Burnt End in Singapore. Check out what he got burning for the UFF.

Dave Pynt BURNT ENDS

The Foodie Magazine: What is it about grilling / barbequing that interests you? Dave Pynt: Grilling and barbequing has something magical about it. It cooks in a way that cannot be replicated and gives such a unique flavour profile it leaves you craving for more! TFM: The science of coal and smoke seems to be attached to your name. Can you tell me a bit about this science? DP: Cooking with wood and smoke is challenging, exciting, and always tasty. The way wood burns has that scientific element but it is more a touch and feel and experience kind of science. The more you play with it the more you understand about how it works and what it can do! TFM: Why did you decide to move to Singapore? DP: Singapore is such an exciting city where you can get anything you want any time of the year...almost. It gives you the freedom to cook what you want and how you want. It’s such a cultural melting pot that people here are able to accept all different styles of flavours and techniques. TFM: How did the idea to create Burnt Ends come about? DP: After staging at a place called Asador Etxebarri, I realized that cooking on wood at a high level was possible. I was working in East London at the time and a friend spoke to me and asked if we should do a

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barbeque pop-up in his archway over the summer. From there, the rest is history.

if it didn’t work, oh well. But it worked so happy days...

TFM: What does the inclusion of Burnt Ends in the 50 Best Restaurants in Asia list mean to you? DP: Being included on that list was an achievement for the whole team. It shows the guys that all of our hard work and effort is being recognized and that we are doing good things together.

TFM: What’s the most valuable lesson you gained from Etxebarri that you still carry until today? DP: Integrity. Victor (Arguinzoniz) takes such care and pride in his produce it is incredible and it really reflected in what he serves.

TFM: I’ve read that you actually built your own oven, how did you learn that? DP: Yeah, that’s correct. A lot of it was self-taught from looking online and talking to tradie mates. I had some friends helping me who had built their own pizza ovens as well. At the end of it, it came down to luck;

TFM: So what are you bring to the plate at the Ubud Food Festival? DP: I’m going to be heading over and cooking a dinner with Will Goldfarb who was one of the guys I looked up to when I was a junior cook. We are going to be cooking a “fire and ice” dinner together: I’ll be cooking over wood and he will take care of the ice!

F O O DI E L I S T S

TFM: I’ve read that you said the “process” is more important to you than the result. Can you elaborate more on that? WG: I really like the problem solving side of pastry. Of course we are in the result business, but I do believe that doing things properly is the most important thing. Results follow from creativity and discipline. TFM: What’s your most challenging creation and the ones you’re most proud of? WG: Probably the most recent and the most simple: Balinese meringue, which is a low sugar Palm sugar meringue made in a new way. That’s why we call it by that name. TFM: Were there any specific moments when you first start to embrace what Bali’s bounties have to offer you? WG: From arrival! The natural products here are so great and so particular to pastry. From chocolate, coffee, salts, spices, sugars, to fruits—it is really a dream pantry. TFM: What’s your favorite Balinese/ Indonesian desserts? WG: I love cendol and klepon. TFM: So tell us about your involvement in Ubud Food Festival? What are you going to bring to the table? WG: Height. I bring a lot of height to the table. Hopefully I can help engage the audience regarding the vibrant food scene here, as well as to invite my friends from Singapore and Bali to participate. Hosting Dave Pynt from Burnt End will be a highlight, as will having Giuseppe Verdacchi here to talk about Primo Chocolate, introducing my friend (and talented pastry chef), Janice Wong, and sitting on a panel with Janet and Eelke.

His popular dessert bar, Room4Desserts, once got him the nickname “mad scientist of desserts”. And he still is. His decision to decamped to Bali—and finding a new dream “pantry”—might have once again reawaken that mad scientist within. For UFF, he confidently says he’ll bring a new height— and something cool!—to the event.

Will Goldfarb ROOM4DESSERTS

TFM: Why is the world of desserts so appealing to you? WG: I enjoy the precision, the art, the taste, the technique—everything basically

WILL GOLDFARB | Room4Desserts, Jalan Raya Sanggingan, Ubud, Bali | T: +62 361 5532598 www.room4dessert.asia | Instagram & Twitter: @room4dessert _ wg

TFM: So what’s next for you? WG: For now we are trying to iron out the kinks in our little sister in the garden, L’Hort, a Catalan-inspired snack bar. Then the new menu for Room4Desserts, high season, maybe an annual closing, and then who knows what the future brings. Either more Room4Desserts or a Room4Desserts lab here in Ubud. We need a garden too!

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F O O DI E L I S T S

Welcome the New Comers by KYLE GREGORIO photograpgs by DENNIE RAMON

Presenting you with the ultimate sampling experience in Jakarta, Sake+ not only continues to boast more than 100 varieties of sake and sochu to tempt and delight your taste buds, but also serve you their new lunch menu dishes.

ocated right on Jalan Senopati, one of the most happening areas in Jakarta filled with a lot of cozy and hip hangout cafe/restaurant, Sake+ aims to educate Jakarta about the intricacies, customs, and rituals surrounding this special drink, sake. SAKE+ holds the largest sake collection in Jakarta. From the same group that brought you the very famous VIN+, this is an absolute must go for all sake lovers as well as Japanese dishes. Sake is a beverage fermented from rice. This would make it more of a beer than wine yet sake is not carbonated and flavor-wise is closer to wine than beer, although it is indeed uniquely different from wine. Sake is not a distilled beverage, and is not even remotely related to gin, vodka or other spirits. The alcohol content of Sake is generally between 15% and 17%. Sake+ might be the first in Jakarta that offers the most extensive selection of Sake and Sochu with more than 100 varieties as for the food they are specialized in Izakaya-style menu such as

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Soba, Udon, Sashimi, Sushi Roll, Rice Bowl, Japanese Pasta, Teppan, Agemono, Teppan, Japanese Tapas, Robatayaki and Salad. Consisting of two floors, Sake+’s interior is simple yet modern a la Japanese, on the first floor you will find a huge storage area of Sake and Sochu. Their Japanese head chef has tailored a menu around robatayaki, barbecued dishes that can be shared around the table, a little bit like Spanish tapas. And the serving staff has been trained to pair your food with sake. The Foodie magazine has been invited to try out their new lunch dishes; Special Bento, Kurobuta and Somen. Sake+ will introduce various dishes to their lunch menu. Their special lunch bento will be limited to just 20 per day. The first lucky 20 patrons who order this will be treated to an assortment of delectable sashimi, grilled meat and fish as well as tempura. Kurobuta is one of Japan’s top meat selections for chef. They cook the Kurobuta meat using a special device to achieve perfection every time. Kurobuta or “black hog” pork comes from the famed Berkshire pig. Somen are Japanese dried vermicelli noodles that are usually eaten cold during summer. Japanese summer is so hot and humid that you often loose your appetite by the end of the day. When you don’t want to eat anything, cold Somen is very nice and easy to eat.

SAKE+ | Jalan Senopati No.54, Jakarta | T: +62 21 725 0002 | www.sakeplus.com

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SATOO Deli Delivery by KYLE GREGORIO photograpgs by DENNIE RAMON

Savory and sweet treats for your daily indulgence, Satoo Deli Shop brings their products to your doorsteps.

ired of the hassle and stress of everyday traffic in Jakarta? Want something from Satoo Deli Shop but can’t get over the nightmare you have to go through just to satisfy your carving? Fortunately, your favorite cakes and decadent treats are just a phone call away. Dedicated to all cake aficionados, this year, from 10 Apr 2015 through 31 Dec 2015, Satoo Deli Shop from Shangri-La Hotel Jakarta is adding a delivery service to your favorite Deli. Enjoy decadent cakes and pastries delivered to the comfort of your home. Whether it is for special events or simply to satisfy one’s sweet indulgence, Satoo Deli will cater you with selections of delicious treats. Open for order from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. and available every day with oneday prior notice. Satoo Deli Shop now offers a delicious variety of cakes, pastries, breads, sandwiches and chocolates. Grab a quick snack, satisfy your sweet tooth, or take a sandwich with you on your way to discover Jakarta’s sights. Their extensive range of specialty cakes, pastries and chocolates are available every day. You can choose from an array of selections such as their famous Marron Glace (A filling cake with the sweet combinations of chestnut purée, fresh vanilla cream, and hazelnut baseri covered with tasty chocolate glazing.), the Sultan Nougat (A signature Shangri-La Hotel, Jakarta cake made of praline mousse cake layered with dark chocolate and mouthwatering hazelnut mousse.), and many more to choose from. Starting this May 2015, Satoo Deli Shop invites devoted cake and pastry lovers to have a buying frenzy. Indulge in an assortment of delights by the hotel’s Executive Pastry Chef, Mathias Dusend with a special price. SATOO DELI SHOP | Shangri-La Hotel Jakarta, Jalan Jendral Sudirman Kav. 1, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2922 9999 www.shangri-la.com/jakarta

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WARUNG TURKI by KYLE GREGORIO photographs by DENNIE RAMON

To bring you more of his authentic home cooking, chef Sezai Zorlu recently opened the doors of Warung Turki by Turkuaz.

hef Sezai Zorlu, Head Chef and owner of Turkuaz – Authentic Turkish Kitchen, opened the doors to Warung Turki, a restaurant that has a warung but Turkish feel to it; just like what you may find when you stumble upon one in

Turkey. Where Terquaz serves food more from the Ottoman Empire cuisine and from the city around chef Sezai’s town, Warung Turki serves food from the city where chef Sezai grew up in. The ingredients used in Terkuaz are also used in Warung Turki. Even with a warung concept, they want you to have a good meal with affordable prices and still show the authenticity of Turkish food. The food in Warung Turki is food that you can find in the village of chef Sezai, Iskenderun, South East of Turkey. Growing up in this town, that is where chef Sezai was exposed to fine food his entire life and this has made his love to food grow stronger since early age. The magical hands of his mother and grandmother have transformed simple dishes that use only few ingredients into an amazingly tasty dish as the food are cooked passionately with love for the family. The love for food he earned from his mother and grandmother allowed him to learn cooking in every aspect and decided cooking as profession. Chef Sezai honors this with a portrait of his mother you are greeted with, hung on the wall, upon entering Warung Turki. Inside Warung Turki, you see the flames coming from their bespoke authentic Turkish wood oven, that took almost 3 months to make, and this is the kind of oven chef Sezia’s mother, grandmother, and great grand mother has been using for the past century. They want to show the guests that what they order is made fresh and after they order, they can walk to the oven and watch their food being cooked. Be sure to order the Pide Ekmegi (All time favourite Turkish bread with sesame), Babaganuc (Wood charcoal grilled aubergines, tomatoes, chili peppers and garlic), Hummus (Pureed chickpeas and tahini with organic extra virgin Turkish olive oil) and Gozleme on your visit! The Tavuk Doner (Rolled wood charcoal grill shaved chicken doner kebab and sumack onion salad) are a must try as they are cooked using wood charcoals and as the result of this, the flavor is enhanced and smells divine. No other kebab place cooks it this way in Jakarta. The interior looks like a very decent warung, Turkish style. On the top floor, It feels like an outdoor terrace inside the restaurant with a glass ceiling. The top floor will also serve as a shisha lounge. What makes Warung Turki unique? Their authenticity.

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WARUNG TURKI | Jalan Kemang Raya No. 18 A, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2905 5898 www.warungturki.com | Twitter: @warungturki

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RAMADAN 1436H CELEBRATIONS by KYLE GRGORIO

As Ramadan comes, the month of thousands of blessings, on behalf of The Foodie Magazine, we would like to wish you Happy Fasting and Happy Eid Al-Fitr 1436H.

Hotel Indonesia Kempinski Jalan MH Thamrin 1, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2358 3800

Delight in the blessing of togetherness. Hotel Kempinski Jakarta welcomes the holy month of Ramadan with special offers as well as special rates for their rooms. Enjoy Indonesian Ramadan iftar favorites on their buffet, which come with an assortment of tajil and hot tea. The delicious dishes will be offered at Signatures Restaurant. Iftar buffet at Signatures Restaurant (first day of Ramadan until 16 July 2015) includes: assortment of Tajil sweets buffet and various selections of local and international food. Celebrate the special day with their Ketupat buffet at Signatures Restaurant. Diners will enjoy an extensive buffet of local specialties, including the ketupat, opor ayam and sambal goreng ati for lunch and dinner. Ketupat buffet at Signatures Restaurant on the first and second day of Eid ul Fitr: an extensive buffet of local specialties, including ketupat, opor ayam and sambal goreng ati. Need a place for company meetings or gatherings? Hotel Kempinski has a meeting and gathering package that offer fastbreaking gathering at the function rooms, full-day meeting and fast breaking at function rooms and Full-day meeting at function rooms and fast breaking at Signatures restaurant. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss these exciting offers during the holy Ramadan month at the nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heritage, Hotel Indonesia Kempinski Jakarta.

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The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place Jalan Jendral Sudirman Kav. 52-53, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2550 1888

The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place welcomes the month of Ramadan this year with a special Middle Eastern cuisine festival. From 17 June – 16 July, Pacific Restaurant & Lounge is hosting a visit from two Guest Chefs, Chef Mahmoud Al-Tanayeb from The Ritz-Carlton, Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC) and Pastry Chef Khaled Rashwan from The Ritz-Carlton, Doha. Together they will present the lavish Iftar dining experience complete with a large selection of Middle Eastern and local delicacies. At Pacific Restaurant, guests can begin their Iftar with an abundance of Tajil selections, a traditional sweet snack to break the fast, followed by a sumptuous selection of Middle Eastern cuisine served in the vibrant-island buffet. From starters, there are Hummus, Charred Eggplant Moutable, Pomegranate, Fattoush Salad and Tabbouleh while for the main dishes, the highlight will be Chicken Kabsah, Fish Sayadia, Okra Tomato Sauce and also Lamb Ouzi and Chicken Musakhan for the carving section. Intricately detailed decor of Arabic cushions and carpets as well as live music performances will enhance the breakfasting experience in Pacific Restaurant & Lounge. Guest can also host their Iftar gatherings at the Grand Ballroom to impress their clients and colleagues. Featuring a variety of Middle Eastern, Indonesian and Asian menu.

HOTEL GRAN MAHAKAM Jalan Mahakam I No.6, Blok M, Jakarta | T: +62 21 720 9966

To honor the holy month of Ramadan 1436H, which will be started on June to July 2015, Hotel Gran Mahakam prepare an alluring decorations with ketupat chandelier hanging at the center of lobby area and the replica of Alhambra Mosque in The Rafflesia Room. With the theme colors of silver, gold and turquoise, you will experience the fast-breaking moment like in the heart of vibrant Middle East. Their Executive Chef will prepare wide selections of sumptuous fast-breaking buffet at Le Gran Café with various attempting sweets “tajil” that will tease your palate. Le Gran Cafe will serve their famous Bubur Tampah, consisting of Bubur Sumsum, Bubur Jali, Biji Salak, Bubur Ketan Hitam, Sagu Rangi and palm sugar as well as coconut milk for toppings, only available during the holy month. Do not miss their new Ramadan cuisines such as Tuna and Sweet Date Salad, Potato and Chickpea Salad, Sweet Corn and Beetroot Salad, Dates Spring Roll, Rujak Juhi and some appetizing selections of main course; Iga Sapi Masak Kurma, Nasi Daun Jeruk, Chicken Kebab, Lamb Tagine, Ayam Besengek, Opor Ayam Panggang, Gulai Iga Sapi, Chicken with Prune and Almond and Nasi Bali. For dessert lovers, their innovative chefs will prepare new specialties; Camel Cookies, Assorted Cenil, Bika Ambon, Manisan Kolang Kaling, Es Lobi-Lobi, Es Pelangi, Bubur Ketan Hitam, Es Jeruk Bali, Es Shanghai and Kolak Campur.

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JW MARRIOT JAKARTA Jalan DR Ide Anak Agung Gde Agung Kav E.1.2 No 1&2, Kawasan Mega Kuningan Jakarta T: +62 21 57988888

“We are delighted to bring the festivity of Ramadan from different countries for this year’s celebration. Guests surely can experience different tastes of cuisine from Morocco, Turkey, Lebanon and Pakistan at Sailendra Restaurant.” said Amol More, Director of Food and Beverage of JW Marriott Hotel Jakarta. In welcoming the fasting month, the award-winning restaurant will take you to the adventure of delicious dishes to break the fast from different countries. Start the culinary journey from the opening of the holy month until 25 June with a lineup of mouthwatering Moroccan breakfasting dishes. Sample the aromatic and spicy food of the vibrant country, such as spiced lamb shanks with prunes and chicken tagine with preserved lemon green olives and thyme. For your excellent breakfasting option, Mezzeh selection of small dishes as appetizers and Fish Pilaki - fish cooked in a sauce are the authentic Turkish dishes ready to be served for the second week of Ramadan from 26 June until 2 July to break your fast. Have a stop to the eastern of the Mediterranean Sea, Lebanon, and savor its famous Beef Makloubi. Made of meat, rice, and fried vegetables placed in a pot, it is served “maqluba” or upside-down as it named, which surely will turn your taste bud upside-down on the third week of Ramadan, which is from 3-9 July. Break your last week of fasting with traditional breakfasting from Pakistan with dates and chilled beverage, continued with other specialties such as Chicken Karahi - spicy chicken with peppers, Boti kebab and Chapli kebab from 10-16 July.

The Park Lane Jalan Casablanca Kav. 18 Jakarta | T: +62 21 828 2000

Brighten up Ramadhan with togetherness at The Park Lane Jakarta. Their outstanding restaurants, Café One and RIVA Grill Bar & Terrace present an array of promotions that you, your family and friends will enjoy during the holy month. Celebrate the Holy month of Ramadhan with a feast of Middle Eastern and Indonesian breakfast buffet specialties at Café One from Monday – Sunday. The sumptuous buka puasa buffet at Café One includes sweet tajil, kurma, coffee and tea. Enjoy Middle Eastern live music starting 5.30pm, Monday – Friday. Guests who want to visit RIVA Grill Bar & Terrace, who want to have breakfast, will receive complimentary special Tajil, kurma, coffee & tea. And for guests who want to visit in the evening, an a la carte menu will be available starting beduk time during dinner. A corporate Buka Puasa will also be available and will be featuring Middle Eastern and Indonesian breakfast buffet menu whenever the guests want to celebrate in one of their function rooms including their newest meeting room Park Lane 7 & 9. The package includes tajil, coffee/tea and welcome juice. The function room maximum capacity is for 100 people. If you want to host your own event but don’t have time or man power to serve the food, you can bring the excellence of The Park Lane to your office, home or outside function. International & Indonesian delightful selections will include tajil, coffee/tea & menu for the clients to choose from.

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Mandarin Oriental Jalan MH Thamrin, PO Box 3392, Jakarta T: +62 21 2993 8888

Ramadan is one of Indonesia’s most awaited seasons, it is the time to rekindle friendship, strengthen professional relationships, and relish family ties. This year’s holy month, Mandarin Oriental, Jakarta’s All Day Dining Chef de Cuisine, Ciptoroso, will take you for a nostalgic journey of Ramadan at his home with carefully selected dishes from Brebes, a charming small town in Central Java. Enjoy the ambiance inspired by Central Java’s traditional homes with an extensive selection of Central Javanese dishes at Cinnamon over delectable all-you-can-eat iftar. The buffet’s highlight is Ketupat Sate Blengong – “Tik-Tok” served in flavorful curry broth with rice cake, sambal and fried shallot. Blengong “Tik-Tok” (also known as mule duck) meat has a more tender and savory texture compared to regular duck or chicken. Another highlight is Rajungan Sambel Pati – deep fried crab in coconut sambal balacan. Chef Ciptoroso personally recommends these two dishes since they are still quite uncommon in Jakarta and is prepared according to his ancestor’s original recipe. “Ketupat Sate Blengong is a very famous breakfasting dish back in my home,” he said, “I would like to share its special flavor with everyone who enjoys their iftar in Cinnamon.”

1. HOTEL MULIA

2. SHANGRI-LA HOTEL

Jalan Asia Afrika Senayan, Jakarta

Kota BNI, Jalan Jend. Sudirman Kav. 1, Jakarta

Extend your warmest greetings to friends and colleagues with Mulia’s Lebaran hampers, available at the Chocolate Boutique from mid June to mid July 2015. Above and beyond providing a wide range of homemade pralines and personalized made to order gifts selection, the Chocolate Boutique at their luxury hotel in Jakarta is known for its fashionable display of chocolate and cake modeling.

Share the blessings of the divine month with a package of delightful confections from SATOO Deli. Send your good thoughts and well wishes to your friends, family, and colleagues with SATOO Deli’s beautiful Ramadan hampers filled with heavenly sweet delights elegantly decorated for Ramadan. The hampers are available in four variants to choose from.

3. TWG Tea Salon & Boutique

4. HOTEL BOROBUDUR Jalan Lapangan Banteng Selatan, Jakarta

Pacific Place, Level 1, SCBD Jalan Jend. Sudirman Kav 52-53, Jakarta

The TWG Tea Ramadan Hampers are an elegant gift to celebrate the Holy Ramadan. TWG Tea, the world’s finest luxury tea brand celebrates the Holy Month of Ramadan and the ancestral traditions of tea in the region with a luxurious collection of exclusive tea blends, single estate harvests and mesmerizing tea accessories inspired with the tea traditions of the Middle East.

Need Ramadan hampers to give to your family and friends? Think of Hotel Borobudur. Festive selections of their renowned hand crafted goodies will make a perfect gift in this holy month. Their very own Swiss Pastry Chef will create special treats - available individually or in a hamper for your friends, colleagues or family.

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BEYOND CRONUTS by ADITHYA PRATAMA photographs by DITA WISTARINI

Meet the mastermind of the world-acclaimed Cronut, and his new venture of desserts with time, Chef Dominique Ansel.

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here was barely a line at the humble store on the busy 7th Avenue. Five, maybe six people, by the counter flipping through the mouth-watering images of the menu and around eight others seated outside soaking up the goodness of Manhattan summer as couple of plates landed on their table. Gentle whispers of ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ were heard as they relished a tart and bit the fluffy beignets specked with green powder while drawing the attention from the passerby. TIME AS AN INGREDIENT After the continuous success of Dominique Ansel Bakery in SoHo, the pastry chef extraordinaire opened his new concept store last month in West Village. Dominique Ansel Kitchen combined craft techniques, prime materials to create the whole new texture and quality on every single bite while taking consideration of time as a crucial ingredient to his creation. “Time is everything for us, it is something so important for our production in the kitchen,” said chef Dominique; “Every product has a shelf life and that is the time where the food is still alive.” The idea of Dominique Ansel Kitchen was conceived from the chef’s experience of twenty years in both retail and restaurant kitchens. There was always difference when it comes to the taste of a fresh cake than the one that has been sitting on the display case for hours. As the freshness degraded, the cake also lost its texture from the temperature and humidity. “Just think about sushi for example,” explained chef Dominique about his idea; “you will have to eat it immediately and not let the freshly made sushi to sit for hours to lose its temperature and freshness. The same idea is applied for the desserts in Dominque Ansel Kitchen.” It was then immediately proven as the warm beignets were served and chef Dominique insisted on me to eat it right away. It was warm, fluffy, and pillow-like piles of beignets dusted with matcha and powdered sugar generously. The warmth eased the green tea powder to build a mild bitterness and umami within the palate as the subtle sweetness kicked in when the beignet

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was divided in two. It was hard not to have matcha powder all over my shirt, but it was definitely worth the green stain on it. New Yorkers’ palates have slowly shifted to recognize this freshness. A blatant sign was the emerging artisanal coffee shops that were made popular by the freshly brewed espresso. Instead of having a drink that was done in the morning for the day, New Yorkers now enjoyed the pleasing palate that their espresso has to offer. Chef Dominique took this trend into his creation such as his 1:1 Lemon Yuzu Tart where he whipped up the fragrant curd to order with emulsified butter and poured on a crisp tart shell. “I wanted to create a curd without applying gelatin into it, because then it will have to be refrigerated. The surprise came in a form of milkshake maker in which I emulsify the curd and butter to make the cream.”

Well, the result was, possibly, the silkiest curd I have ever eaten in my life with a tangy kick and a fragrance of yuzu. The butter was definitely there, cutting through the acidity of the citrus and created a pleasurable richness. I understand the ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ now. HONORING THE CRAFT Chef Dominique’s ground-breaking creation, the Cronut, has definitely opened up many new opportunities from his humble Spring Street bakery where line will form every morning rain or shine or snow. He admitted that it became the opportunity for more people to see his other creations including the glorious DKA that even the chef himself would eat it every single morning. DKA stands for Dominique’s KouignAmann, his personal take on the leftover pastry delight from Brittany, France.

Laminated layers of enriched puff pastry with caramelized layer of sugar were baked to perfection and create a crisp caramel crunch on its outer crust. For Dominique Ansel Kitchen, he created a new version of DKA with brown sugar. The outcome is a gooey caramelized center that kept the moisture of the pastry while retaining the crisp and flaky caramel crust. “It’s all about technique with KouignAmann, because all of the ingredients are simple and that is what makes it tasty,” pictured the chef about his version of the classic Breton cake; “just like a good omelet: it has to be simple and tasty, you cannot make it too complicated.” VENTURING THE EAST Chef Dominique has recently frequent Japan to prepare Dominique Ansel Bakery in Omotesando, Tokyo. In his Japanese store, the chef inspired to bring not only his signature products to the Japanese market, but also adding few more products that are signature to his Japanese bakery to provide a unique and mindful concept to his new market and, most importantly, to give the store a brand new heart. “While I’m there, I was introduced to plenty new type of ingredients but I guess there are two that really stuck with me until today: yuzu and matcha,” shared chef Dominique; “It’s the simplicity of its taste, its freshness and the fact that it seems a little bit more exotic to the New York market excites me to introduce the two in my creations.” Now that the brand new Dominique Ansel Kitchen has opened and Dominique Ansel Bakery in Japan is set to open in summer, the chef ensured himself that he will take one step at a time with his venture by focusing on the product quality and improving the service at all of his establishments. “Stick to what you believe in and make it work everyday” The greatest part about being in Dominique Ansel Kitchen is more than just about sampling great tasting pastries, cakes and desserts but to be surrounded with the extraordinary ambition for perfection and strive of finesse beyond what your taste bud could imagine.

DOMINIQUE ANSEL KITCHEN | 137 7th Avenue South, New York, NY 10014 | T: +1 212 242 5111 www.dominiqueanselkitchen.com | Facebook: Dominique Ansel Kitchen | Twitter & Instagram: @DominiqueAnsel

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photograph by THOMAS SCHAUER reprinted with permission “DOMINIQUE ANSEL: THE SECRET RECIPES” published by SIMON & SCHUSTER, October 2014

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MINI MADELEINES Serves 100 mini madeleines

INGREDIENTS: 115 gr 15 gr 15 gr 100 gr 1 gr 120 gr 4 gr 150 gr 1/2 pc 1/2 pc

Unsalted butter Dark brown sugar Honey Sugar Salt Flour, sifted Baking powder Eggs Lemon, zested Orange, zested Nonstick cooking spray Powdered sugar, for serving

STEPS

• Melt the butter, brown sugar and honey in a medium pot over low heat. Stir gently with a heatproof spatula to ensure that nothing burns. Keep the mixture warm over very low heat, or reheat if necessary. • Combine the granulated sugar, salt, flour, and baking powder in a large bowl and mix well with a whisk. Form a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add the eggs one by one, whisking to incorporate each before adding the next. • When the eggs are fully incorporated and the batter is smooth, slowly whisk in the butter mixture. Whisk in the lemon and orange zests. The batter will still be runny and similar in consistency to cake batter.

Cover with plastic wrap pressed directly onto the surface of the batter, to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate overnight to rest. • Preheat the oven to 190 C. • Spray the madeleine pan with nonstick cooking spray evenly into all of the cavities. Place the batter in a piping bag and pipe the batter about threequarters of the way to the top. • Bake the madeleines for 2 to 2 1/2 minutes until the batter puff up. Rotate the pan and bake for another 2 to 2 1/2 minutes until the sides of the madeleines are golden blond and the center has set. • Unmold immediately, dust with powdered sugar and serve immediately.

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The Chef as an Artist by JED DOBLE photographs by 2AM:DESSERTBAR

Janice Wong is unarguably one of the most creative and prolific dessert chefs in Asia. She took time out to speak with The Foodie Magazine ahead of her appearance at this monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ubud Food Festival on June 5-7.

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JANICE WONG | 2am:dessertbar | 21A Lor Liput, Singapore | T: +65 6291 9727 www.2amdessertbar.com | Instagram: @janicewong2am and @2amdessertbar

few years ago, a friend and I made our way to 2am:dessertbar in Holland Village, Singapore, we had read reviews of the place and were eager to sample their desserts. The menu was inspired and imaginative, we thoroughly enjoyed the desserts. We enjoyed the desserts too much that after sharing two desserts, we decided to get a third dessert! We couldn’t have enough! I remember we had one dessert, with basil and white chocolate, with coconut and passion fruit. Quite divine. Thus was my first experience of Chef Janice Wong’s artistry. Through her edible art, Chef Janice is able to fuse two of her passions. She initially conceptualized this in 2011, for the launch of her book, Perfection in Imperfection. She wanted her guests to experience her book and her dessert art form in a unique way. Thus she transformed the venue into a veritable edible art gallery. Creating edible art installations using only edibles as a medium to paint, sculpt and draw. Since then she has been invited to showcase her amazing culinary artistry in many events and venues both in Singapore and abroad. A native Singaporean, Chef Janice holds a degree in Economics, but was enthralled by the culinary scene in Melbourne where

she took up her studies that she decided to make a shift. She took up the pastry program at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris and has since worked under some of the world’s best chefs: Thomas Keller, Grant Achatz and Pierre Hermé. In 2007, Janice opened 2am:dessertbar, a dessert restaurant designed to be an all-encompassing dining experience. Here she pushes the limits between sweet and savory, using unique and unheard of ingredients in desserts, and carefully using modern and molecular techniques. I asked Chef Janice how she comes up with these unique flavors and ingredients: “I don’t set out to source unusual dessert ingredients from the beginning. There are no boundaries between sweet and savory. It’s about balance and technique. Soy sauce and caramel, umami and sweet.” Janice tells me that she uses a very wide variety of flavors and ingredients in her desserts. “The best thing is not to use any references when making desserts.” Her favorite ingredient is chocolate. “Its versatile and sexy! It can be paired with a long of things,” Janice says. When I ask about her edible art, Janice says: “I love and appreciate art. I paint with an expression of freedom, no rules. I have no art training, but I believe that everyone

UBUD FOOD FESTIVAL | www.ubudfoodfestival.com | Twitter: @ubudfoodfest | Instagram: @ubudfoodfestival

is inherently an artist since we constantly express ourselves in the things we do.” She contines: “Its easy to marry food and art. A plate is like a canvas. Chefs are constantly inspired by art too, and they translate their food art onto the plate.” Chef Janice tells us that her current pop-up store at the Ion in Singapore will last until July and in September we should look forward to the launch of her flagship store, also at Ion. See Chef Janice in person, as she heads down to Ubud this month for the inaugural Ubud Food Festival, from June 5-7. She conducts two Master Classes at Mozaic Restaurant on Friday, June 5, from 9:00-11:00 am and on Saturday, June 6, from 2:00-4:00pm where she will present Pandan Gula Melaka ice cream with pistachio crumble and kaffir lime meringue, drawing on local green ingredients. And her Green Mango Sphere with yoghurt, lemongrass and basil. She will also present a Cooking Demonstration on Saturday, June 6 at Indus from 10:30 – 11:30 am. And lastly on Sunday, June 7, from 2:00-4:00pm, Chef Janice together with Angelita Wijaya host a Mad Hatters Tea Party, overflowing with sweet and savory earthly delights that are bound to startle.

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For the Love of Chocolate by SAHIRI LOING photographs by HIMAWAN SUTANTO

It’s a match made in chocolate heaven. The creative duo behind Cacaote don’t merely offer delightful sweet treats, they also want to share their love of highquality chocolate in their homeland.

s with any chef, it all started with a love for food. But for Cory Meilika and Darryl Iswaratioso, it’s a love of chocolate that further ignited their passions to become pastry chefs and now, co-owners of Cacaote Pattiserie, Brasserie and Bar. “I think everbody loves chocolate,” says Cory. “But what we find lacking here in Indonesia is the use of good quality chocolate. And so that’s what we wanted to share with Cacaote.” But Darryl seems to have a more a sterner vision in mind. “We want to educate people’s taste buds when it comes to chocolate.” Indeed chocolate has a dear place in the hearts of many people—especially women—and the way that Darryl explains it, the allure of chocolate is not unlike how men describes the opposite sex. “Chocolate for me has a very mystical quality,” he says. “And the more you try to get to know it, the more you’ll realize how little you know about it.” For the record, Cory and Darryl are a couple, and they met during their stay in Australia (he studied at Le Cordon Bleu and she studied business and chemical science at the University of Technology in Sydney and joined short courses at Savour Chocolate and Patisserie School in Melbourne). It was here that the idea to open up their own shop started brewing but for a few years they worked in the pastry-making business in the hopes of further honing their culinary expertise. “It’s very important to keep learning,” the Surabaya-born Darryl says, to which Cory half-teasingly responded, “Because, like he always said, the world keeps on evolving.” But they are definitely of the same mind when it comes to experience being the best teacher of them all. “I think to be a good

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chef you have to work in other’s people kitchen first,” he says. “These experiences will test you on how to handle pressure. Even the best chefs in the world are still learning.” So what have they learned so far? “For me preparing a dish should be all about taste, taste, taste,” he answers. “Some people might emphasize on appearance but if the taste is not equally good than what’s the point?” In Cacaote they naturally use the best quality chocolate. “We used our favorite brand of chocolate from Belgium and France called couverture chocolate,” Cory says. “So we never compromised by using mixed or compound chocolate.” For inspiration, their main source hails from France (which can be visibly felt from the interior decoration of their three-storey venue), namely the modern French concept. “Some of the best of culinary concepts come from France,” says Darryl. “But we are also inspired by Spain and Japan, where we think the concept for modern cuisine was further developed.” Being consistently creative certainly goes hand-in-hand when you’re running your own pastry-based establishment. Other than to further please your customer with new and exciting menu, it’s also to keep your creative juice going. “In fact pastry shops overseas keeps changing their menu every year—so eventually your favorite menu will not be available to order,” says Darryl. “And I initially wanted to do that: by replacing the menu every six months.” “But we found out that it’s hard to do that here because we once had a customer who came in and was angry when he knew that his favorite menu was no longer available, hahaha,” says Cory. “So, yeah, it’s a decision that we’re still undecided with. We want to be idealistic but of course

we’re also aware that the customers should come first.” When it comes to creating, Darryl has a “love it or hate it” approach (which at one time Cory kind of teases him with), for example the dessert that he’s making for this edition. “I”m using this chocolate from Valhorna called P125 that for me has an interesting texture,” he says. “It’s a bit acidic. But it has all the right elements: chocolate cremeux for smoothness, mousse to give it a powerful taste, and crumble for texture.” The aim to educate lives on with the further expansion of Cacaote menu (for first time visitor, just order the titular “cacaote” on the menu, which is a personal favorite of Cory because “it’s Darryl’s way of interpreting chocolate by combining the texture of crunch as well the softness and melt-in-your-mouth mousse). They are also planning to open a new branch but it’s still on a hush hush stage. In the meantime, Darryl will be busy with his recent “annointment” as the ambassador for Capfruit, the France-based brand specializing in fruit puree. Being a couple, naturally we have to ask them about personal stuff, for instance what are the things they most admire about each other. “I like his perseverance,” Cory started. “I like how he challenges himself and the greatest thing about him is that he can create an entire collection for the shop in one day with just a pen and paper—I think he has all the flavor combination in his head!” “I admire her passion and perseverance as well,” says Darryl. “And she’s a little bit more artistic than me—I usually develop the flavor and together we would discuss about the appearance and decoration.” Oh there’s definitely no “I” in Cacaote...

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CACAOTE | Jalan Senopati Raya no. 80, Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2930 6127 Twitter & Instagram: @cacaotesenopati

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Once in a young lifetime one should be allowed to have as much sweetness as one can possibly want and hold. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Judith Olney

Author, Joy of Chocolate

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The Exact Science of Pastry by SAHIRI LOING photographs by HIMAWAN SUTANTO

The challenge of being a pastry chef is not in the pressure to make new dishes but more into paying respect to what makes the original recipe special. And that’s the principle that Chef Juniarto Adi of JW Marriott Jakarta adheres to.

astry chef Juniarto Adi enjoys being a family man: he’s been married for 12 years now and has three small children. He cooks as well but he said maybe not as rigorous as his day job. “Sometimes I like to make my kids breakfast like their favorite durian pancake,” Adi says. “Or maybe a simple pisang goreng.” The aforementioned dayjob is at the place we’re meeting now: the JW Marriot Jakarta, where he has just filled vacant position of pastry chef. He’s been transferred after three years working at the The Stones - Legian, Bali – A Marriott Hotel. You can say he is “fresh from the oven” here as he’s only been working for about a week (at the time of our interview), but in reality his experience has already spanned a hefty 17 years. With that accumulation of years, naturally you expect him to boast about his career but in person Chef Adi seems to sincerely downplay his experience, which includes a three year stint on a cruise ship (when asked about what was his most cherished experience working on board the ship, he simply answered, “the seconds prior we’re about to hit home”), and several resume-enriching workplace such as the Le Meridian Hotel in Jakarta, the Novotel in Bandung, and at several locations at his most favorite place, Bali (where he owns

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a house at Nusa Dua), such as KuDeTa and Club Med. “I feel like I still have a lot to learn,” he says. “And that’s what I do whenever I get the chance to meet my fellow chef friends, and from my various work experience where I get to meet a lot of creative people. But, at the same time, I also have to be able to mentor myself.” That “mentoring oneself” might be his true lifeblood, saying that school will only teach you the basics but eventually experience will lead you to the “ultimate” knowledge. “I consider pastry as a form of art, in which it’ll require a lot of patience and creativity,” he says. “And you also need to constantly innovate, so naturally failure will always be around the corner but the most important thing is the discipline.” He said what’s great about the art of pastry—and bakery, which actually was his first base point—is that it already has a strong standardized recipe. “Unlike cooking where you get to experiment by adding this and that, and consequently the same dish can taste different when made by two different people, making pastry for me is an exact science,” says the chocolate dessert fan. “So all you need to do is know how to make it—that’s the real challenge.” He said he still keeps his old handwritten recipe books which he still uses as a guide once in a while.

As for favorite desserts, he loves a good Apple Tartine or any chocolatebased desserts like chocolate truffles. “I like to make a truffle using milk chocolate as base, then embellished with a crispy cracker, chocolate florentine, and sometimes I also like to infuse a bit of flavor into the chocolate such as coffee or having an orange-flavored sponge cake.” Interestingly, even though Indonesians are not familiar with the concept of desserts, but for the last 10 years Chef Adi has been craving for something sweet after a full meal. “Usually after lunch, and I would reach for a brownie or anything with a mousse.” For The Foodie, the chef whips up frozen and iced desserts, to beat the summer heart. He starts with a refreshing Strawberry-Kiwi popsicle, then a set of throwback popsicles: green bean and black sticky rice, both exotic yet easily remembered (inspired by our very own es podeng) and a tropical flavored pina collada cake — all perfect desserts for a hot, summers day. But afterwards chef Adi says he still has a lot of homework to do, especially at his brand new hotel. “My aim as the new pastry chef is to make the options here more varied and exciting,” he says. “So actually I can’t wait to go back to work in the kitchen!”

JW MARRIOTT JAKARTA | Jalan Dr. Ide Anak Agung Gde Agung Kav. E 1.2 No. 1 & 2, Kawasan Mega Kuningan, Jakarta T: +62 21 5798 8888 | www.marriott.com/jktjw | Twitter & Instagram: @jwmarriottjkt

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STRAWBERRY AND KIWI POPSICLE Serves: 6

INGREDIENTS: 500 gr 2 whole 200 gr 50 gr 100 ml

Strawberry puree Kiwi Sugar Glucose Water

STEPS

• Place the strawberry puree, sugar, glucose and water in a saucepan and slowly bring to a boil, allowing sugar to dissolve. • Simmer gently then remove from the heat and leave to cool completely. • Pour the mixture into popsicle moulds and add sliced kiwi. • Place the moulds in the freezer until solid frozen.

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PIÑA COLADA FROZEN CAKE Serves: 16 cm cake

INGREDIENTS:

50 gr White sponge 100 gr Pineapple sugar 100 gr Pineapple cubes 400 gr Coconut ice cream

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STEPS

• Place the white sponge cake in 16cm round shape mould as the base. • Cook the pineapple sugar until it becomes caramel and add the cubed pineapple. • Put the pineapple caramel mixture on top of the white sponge cake, let it cool. • Add the coconut ice cream on top of the cake and freeze for 24 hours.

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BLACK STICKY RICE POPSICLE Serves: 6

INGREDIENTS:

500 gr Black sticky rice 150 ml Coconut cream 200 gr Sugar 500 ml Water Salt

STEPS

• Boil the water and black sticky rice until the grains are soft and most of the water is absorbed. • Add sugar, a pinch of salt and coconut cream, stirring until it has dissolved. Bring to a simmer, and remove from the heat. • Put the cool mixture into the popsicle mould and freeze for 24 hours.

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The Big Apple Pies by ADITHYA PRATAMA

Come summertime, New York City is flourishing with fresh produce from all around the state. And what’s the best way to cook up these gems? Chef Deden Putra of The Peninsula New York knows how!

s the May flowers start to bloom, New York welcomes its summer patron with tropics-like weather and the abundance of produce coming from upstate New York including the crunchiest peaches, the freshest lemons and the sweet summer cherries in all of the city’s green markets. “My favorite has to be Union Square’s farmer’s market,” shared Chef Deden Putra; “before going to the kitchen every morning, I would spend some time buying fresh fruits and vegetables that I can use to make the desserts for the hotel” After spending over a decade in the United States and three years in New York City, Chef Deden is familiar with the seasonal patterns of the produce in order to cook up a storm in his kitchen. As a certain season will harvest a certain kind of produce, seasonal menus for every restaurant and hotel in the United States becomes the big moment to showcase their chef’s talents. Summer is the perfect time to make pies and tarts for Chef Deden, especially fruit pies. Not only that the fruits are at their best during summer, but the variations of different stone fruits and berries out there makes it fun for him to create a delicious allAmerican pies. Some of these pies are also served at The Peninsula New York’s restaurant, Clement. “Pies are easy and fun to make for everyone, including myself,” laughed Deden when asked what made him interested in serving pie for The Foodie Magazine this summer; “you are free to create your very own pie out of your favorite fruit, the recipe is adjustable and I only use one recipe for the crust.” The crust is the soul of the pie for Deden. Not only that it creates a halo-like casing for the pie, but also the crust is what binds the flavors all together and adding a fun, flaky texture of the pie. The key is to not over mix the dough and develop the gluten, which is what makes the crust tough and unpleasant when eaten. The dough should be mixed until it just crumbles and lightly pack it and flatten it before it is refrigerated to rest. “The resting time is also important as it allows the dough to relax and prevent shrinkage while baking,” added Chef Deden; “that way you’ll produce a great pie with a beautiful crust.” For our Dessert Issue, Deden baked the delicious peach crostatas –an Italian style pie, a classic lemon meringue pie, the decadent smore’s pie with dark chocolate ganache and marshmallow fluff, cherry pie and strawberry rhubarb crumble to complete the whole repertoire. “Although I have to say my favorite is a classic apple pie” confessed Deden. He enjoys the all-American classic by combining Granny Smith apples and red delicious to form a sweet caramelized apple flavor which remains crunchy after baking. On his day off, Chef Deden will venture out to Brooklyn and savor a slice of Four & Twenty Blackbirds’ salted caramel apple pie.

CLEMENT - THE PENINSULA NEW YORK | 700 5th Avenue, New York, NY 10019 | T: +1 212 956-2888 www.newyork.peninsula.com | Instagram: @dedenputrany

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BASIC PIE DOUGH

CHOCOLATE SMORE’S PIE

LEMON MERINGUE PIE

Yield: 1.7 kg

Serves: 6

INGREDIENTS:

INGREDIENTS: 340 gr 1000 gr 1/4 tbsp 40 gr 1/2 tsp 255 gr 130 gr

Butter, cold Cake flour Salt Sugar Baking powder Cream cheese Water

STEPS

• Cut the cold butter into small cubes, set aside. • Sieve all the dry ingredients and in a kitchen mixer with paddle attachment, mix all the ingredients together. • Add in the cold butter and mix until crumbly. • Add in the cream cheese and water until the dough comes together. Do not over mix. • Flatten the dough and wrap with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least two hours before use. • Roll the dough to 1.5 cm thickness for the shell and bake at 180 C until golden brown.

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Chocolate pie 6 pcs 250 gr 290 gr 130 gr

Baked tart shell Dark chocolate (64%), chopped Cream Eggs

Fluff 150 gr 240 gr 720 gr 240 gr 2 gr

Water Sugar Corn syrup Egg white Salt

STEPS

• For the chocolate pie, heat the cream to simmer, remove from the heat. Stir in the chocolate until melted completely. Set aside to cool for 10 minutes then whisk in the eggs. • Fill the baked tart shell with the chocolate cream and place it in the oven at 160 C for 12 minutes. Set aside • For the fluff, cook water, sugar and corn syrup in saucepan until 115C. • Meanwhile, in a kitchen mixer, whisk egg white and salt until soft peak. • Slowly add in the hot sugar while continue mixing the fluff on a medium-high speed until hard peak. • Pipe the fluff on top of the chilled chocolate pie and caramelize with kitchen torch. Serve immediately.

6 pcs

Baked pie dough

Lemon Curd 225 gr 5 pcs 4 pcs 150 gr 240 gr

Sugar Eggs Lemon, zested Lemon juice Butter, softened

Fluff 150 gr 240 gr 720 gr 240 gr 2 gr

Water Sugar Corn syrup Egg white Salt

STEPS

• For lemon curd, combine sugar, eggs, lemon juice and lemon zest in a saucepan. Cook in a low heat until the mixture thickens at 85C, stir consistently to prevent curdles. • Remove from the heat and whisk in soft butter into the curd. • Pour the curd into the tart shell and let it set for couple of hours in the fridge. • For the fluff, cook water, sugar and corn syrup in saucepan until 115C. • Meanwhile, in a kitchen mixer, whisk egg white and salt until soft peak. • Slowly add in the hot sugar while continue mixing the fluff on a medium-high speed until hard peak. • Pipe the fluff on top of the lemon pie and caramelize with kitchen torch before serving.

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PEACH PIE

STEPS

Serves: 6

INGREDIENTS:

6 pcs Baked tart shell 8 pcs Fresh peaches, cut into segments 110 gr Sugar 15 gr Flour 1 tsp Cinnamon powder Raw sugar, to sprinkle

• Combine all the ingredients together. • Arrange the peach segments on the tart shells and sprinkle with raw sugar on top. • Bake at 170 C for 25 minutes until the crusts are golden brown and the sugar on top caramelized.

CHERRY ALMOND TART Serves: 6

INGREDIENTS: 500 gr 200 gr 200 gr 200 gr 120 gr 20 gr 15 gr

Fresh cherries, pitted and halved Butter Almond flour Powdered sugar Eggs Cornstarch Rum

STEPS

• Prepare a 20 cm tart shell and line it with the pie dough, set aside. • Cream butter, almond powder, powdered sugar and cornstarch until light and creamy. Mix in the eggs and rum. • Pipe the cream on to the pie dough. • Arrange fresh cherries on top of the almond cream and bake at 170 C for 30-40 minutes. Serve warm.

STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB CRUMBLE PIE Serves: 5

INGREDIENTS:

Strawberry Rhubarb Filling 100 gr 20 gr 5 pcs 800 gr 300 gr 50 gr

Sugar Cornstarch Cloves Strawberries, halved Rhubarb, peeled and cut into 2-3cm Lemon juice

Oatmeal Crumble 255 gr 200 gr 2 gr 2 gr 2 gr 200 gr 115 gr

Brown sugar Cake flour Baking powder Baking soda Salt Butter, cold Oatmeal

STEPS

• Prepare a 20 cm tart shell and line it with the pie dough, set aside. • For the filling, cook all the ingredients together in a large saucepan until tender. Pour into the tart shell, set aside. • For the crumble, combine all the dry ingredients in a kitchen mixer with paddle attachment on a medium speed. Add in the cold butter and continue mixing until it became crumbles. Let it rest in the fridge for 15 minutes. • Cover the top of the pie with crumble and bake at 170C for 30 minutes.

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A MASTER PATISSIERE’S HAPPINESS by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE RAMON

The dedicated pastry master, Gerald Maridet of Pullman Jakarta Indonesia, gladly took us on a trip through his life expereinces and treated us to three desserts.

pastry chef in his white jacket appeared busy on his way up and down the stairs of Pullman Jakarta Indonesia. Occasionally, he’s seen emerging from SanaSini pastry kitchen, passing by the coffee shop, stopping around at Le Chocolat and heading again somewhere. His pace was quick and purposeful. Upon seeing us, he told to us that he would be ready soon for our appointment. Well, he has been quite enthusiastic to show his dessert creations to us. Finally we will see him in action at a demo kitchen in PRIME, the newly introduced meeting space of the hotel. When the photo shoot began, Chef Gerald Maridet knew very well how to accommodate our needs by swiftly and confidently showing the steps of the cooking process. In the meantime, he also simplified the steps to make it more understandable for us. No wonder he’s popular among his students from the cooking classes held here. The three desserts that he showed us were a mixture between comforting flavors of our childhood with straightforward, simple but fulfilling flavors. On the other hand, it also had its own complexity and

challenges. “The Jeruk Marshmallow is based on the use of fruit that Indonesians love to do. You only need to dip it in the dulce de leche and sprinkle the sweet crumbs all over it“, he said. The other desserts he presented were the raspberry jam cigars and lamington cubes, all equally good in terms of beauty and taste. “In pastry, you must first feast the eyes and then the taste should be equally good as well!” Expressed the chef. Years of experience was more than enough for Chef Gerald to be this eloquent and professional when it comes to sharing recipes and demonstrating it for everyone. Speaking of which, it was partly because he started his career very early and it quickly became his lifetime aspiration as well. The young Gerald Maridet was always enjoying his time observing a pastry shop nearby his home in Lyon with such curiosity upon passing by it. From across the street, he witnessed how skillfully the patissiere rolled the dough, craftily shaped the croissant, and then moving on with other delicate French pastries. Seeing his enthusiasm, one day the proprietor came out and asked him to work part time there after school. His

PULLMAN JAKARTA INDONESIA | Jalan M.H. Thamrin 59, Jakarta | T: +62 21 3192 1111 www.pullmanjakartaindonesia.com

parents agreed and then he started his apprenticeship there. When the time came for him to enter college, the young prodigy had already known what he wanted to do for the rest of his life. His thirty-year career has seen him through thick and thin, working in high profile establishments around the globe, in 12 countries and achieving the executive pastry chef position many times. From working with Paul Bocuse and Guy Savoy, Chef Gerald has also worked in privateowned resorts in the Caribbean as well as with five-star hotels such as Hyatt, RitzCarlton, Shangri-La, and now Pullman. “After so many years of traveling around, I am now happily settling down in Jakarta with my family. Like me, my teenage son wants to be a chef as well but he’s more on the savory side”, said the chef elated, knowing well that his achievements have been met and that he’s content with his life. As the chef hints that Jakarta may be his last stop for his career, it is our turn to be elated as well! With his immense experience, it is now our turn to learn a lot of things from the chef. We’re sure that he will be more than happy to share it with us all.

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RASPBERRY JAM CIGARS Serves: 24

INGREDIENTS:

Cigar dough 300gr Butter 225gr Crystal sugar 225gr Ground hazelnut 188gr Egg white 150gr Cake flour 150gr Bread flour 2gr Vanilla essence 1gr Ground cinnamon 1gr Ground cardamom Raspberry jam 300gr 220gr 6gr 90gr 2gr

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Frozen whole raspberry Crystal sugar Yellow pectin Mirror glaze Red coloring

STEPS

Cigars • In a mixer bowl with paddle; whip sugar, butter, and ground hazelnut • Gradually add liquid egg white • Mix in sieved cake and bread flours with ground cinnamon and ground cardamom as well. • Use the piping bag with round nozzle and start shaping it in a form of cookie cigar on top of a baking parchment. • Bake it at 160C for 12 minutes. Set aside. Raspberry jam • In a large pot, combine all the ingredients together and slow cook it until it thickens. • Set aside and put in a chiller for a few hours. SERVING SUGGESTION • Put half cigar upside down and glaze it with raspberry jam • Dust the other cigar with icing sugar (optional) and then combine it together with the other half cigar to make it whole.

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LAMINGTON CUBES Serves: 12

INGREDIENTS:

Lamington cubes 200gr Self-raising flour 12gr Baking powder 2gr Salt 120gr Butter 120gr Eggs 10gr Vanilla paste 120gr Milk 80gr Crystal sugar Italian meringue 400gr 50gr 130gr 250gr

• Incorporate the soft butter and whip until smooth. Ready for use. Kaffir lime & mango compote • Boil all the ingredients except for the sliced fresh mango. • Once reduced, add the mango slices. • Reserve until all infused and cool it in chiller.

SERVING SUGGESTION • Cut the lamington in cubes. • Glaze it with the coconut cream and compote. • Add raspberry and orange zest on top of it. • Serve.

Crystal sugar (first batch) Crystal sugar (second batch) Mineral water Egg white

Coconut cream 120gr Crystal sugar 500gr Butter 120gr Coconut milk 80gr Egg yolk 200gr Italian meringue Kaffir lime & mango compote 250gr Fresh mango 120gr Mineral water 90gr Glucose syrup 5gr Kaffir lime leaves 3pcs Star anise 2pcs Vanilla pod

STEPS

Lamington cubes • In a mixer bowl with paddle; whip the butter, vanilla paste, salt, and sugar until fluffy. • Add warm milk into the mixture and then follow by sieved flour and baking powder. • Pour the mixture into a stainless steel frame and bake it at 200C for 20 minutes. • Set aside to cool and then reserve it in a chiller. Italian meringue • In a saucepan, combine water and first batch of sugar. Cook it until 121C. • Start to whip the egg white and the second batch of sugar in a bowl. • Pour the cooked sugar over the whipped egg white. Use the 3rd gear to further whip the mixture. • The meringue is now ready to use. Keep it warm before use. Coconut cream • In a bain-marie (hot water bath); whip the egg yolk, sugar, and coconut milk until fluffy. Reach 37C. • Pour the mixture in a mixer bowl and then add the Italian meringue.

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Passion with Simplicity by JED DOBLE photographs by HIMAWAN SUTANTO

Chef Christina Min of the newly opened Beau Artisan Bread and Pastries at Plaza Indonesia, shares her simplicity and passion, as well as a lovely tart which can easily be made at home.

visited Beau very soon after it opened at Plaza Indonesia. The time I came, breads and pastries were flying off the shelves, smiling patrons all carrying away their yummy baked treats. Beau, brainchild of pastry genius Talita Setyadi, has slowly been distributing their yummy treats and breads to various cafes and restaurants in the city even before they launched their first venue. I reached out to Chef Talita to ask her to share a recipe for this Dessert Issue, but she politely declined and offered instead Chef Christina, who heads the Beau pastry production kitchen, to share one of her own creations. We still get to introduce Beau in our Foodie List section, turn to page 16 for our article. When I met Chef Christina for our baking session and photo shoot, she was an absolute delight. She was timid at first, but as we warmed up, started to open up. Hailing from Honolulu, Hawaii, Christina tells me that she has worked in a lot of production bakeries and that she has had some background work with bread and viennoiserie. But her passion lies with sweet pastries - cakes, pies, mousse, puddings and other things sweet. “I think I have strong understanding of how to run a production kitchen and weigh out the viability of what kinds of products can sell on a day to

CHRISTINA MIN | Instagram: @minychefy

day basis,” Christina shares. As a pastry chef, she says that she is quite confident with her choux pastry skills. “My training at craftsman and wolves in San Francisco has given me a greater appreciation to maximizing the “puff” of the pate a choux and sufficiently drying out the interior to maintain crisp texture.” And now she has brought that same appreciation to Beau to share with all of Jakarta. “We proudly make our pastry from scratch and hand pipe each éclair,” she reveals. I ask Christina what she likes to make her pastries with. “I love working with chocolate and fruit. One aspect of the chance to live and work in Asia was the access to tropical fruits.” For the past year, she has tasted a lot of local fruits in Indonesia and thought about how she wants to incorporate them into various products. “I love eating fruit and chocolate as snacks, so it would be natural for me to pair them together. Fruits also bring a nice acidity to a composition when you want to balance out richness, butteriness, or creaminess.” She loves experimenting in the kitchen and baking a whole variety of things. Christina has a college background in fine arts and experimenting with flavors and textures are some of the most appealing aspects of the pastry art for her.

For our dessert issue, Christina shows us how to make a simple Honey-Strawberry Tart. “I first made this dessert last year at my friends’ Northern California farm and it was a big hit!” Christina says that she spends a few weekends a year at their home. They are accomplished and avid cooks, so she always tends to whip up some baked goods or cold desserts for them when she visits. It was late spring and she wasn’t sure if any of the stone fruit trees or fig trees had anything ripe on them, but she brought along her own pie dough just in case she had the opportunity to whip up a free form galette. “Lucky for me they had just harvested their second year of honey from their bee hives and it was the first year strawberries popped up. Thus, my idea for combining a light summer tart with caramelized honey pastry cream and fresh strawberries was conceived.” Her friends loved the combination of the crispy flaky pastry shell, sweet cream filling, and the fresh juiciness of the strawberries. See Christina’s step-by-step recipe on the following pages. Since it is the dessert issue, I would be remiss if I let an accomplished pastry chef leave without asking her what her dessert guilty pleasure was. “Mine is ice cream. It is one thing I do not make at home on purpose, but I do love going out to buy it.”

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INGREDIENTS: Pate Brisee 362 gr 18 gr 7 gr 254 gr 109 gr

Flour Sugar Salt Unsalted butter, cut into 2 cm cubes Cold water

Caramelized Honey Pastry Cream 99 gr Honey 56 gr Cream, warm 181 gr Milk, warm 27 gr Honey 27 gr Sugar 65 gr Egg yolks 18 gr Cornstarch

100gr

Melted white chocolate Fresh strawberries, to garnish Honey, to garnish Chopped pistachio, to garnish Powdered sugar, to garnish

• For pate brisee, sift flour, sugar and salt. Chill the dry ingredients together with the butter in the fridge for 20 minutes. • In a kitchen mixer with paddle attachment, rub the dry ingredients and chilled butter on low speed until crumbly. • Slowly add in the cold water until it forms a dough. Do not over mix. • Wrap the dough with plastic wrap and chill for at least one hour. • Roll into 1/2 cm thickness and cut out with 10 cm round cutter. • Bake at 180 C for 12-15 minutes until golden brown. Set aside to cool.

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• For pastry cream, in a medium pot, boil 99gr of honey until thickened and caramelized. • Slowly add in the warm cream to the honey. Then add in the warm milk and 27 gr of honey. Stir until combined then remove from heat. • In a mixing bowl, whisk egg yolks, sugar and cornstarch. Slowly temper in the cream mix while whisking. • Pour everything back into the pot and continue cooking on medium heat. Whisk vigorously until the mixture is thickened. • Transfer into a clean bowl and cover the surface of the cream with plastic wrap. Refrigerate to chill completely.

• To assemble, slice some strawberries in half and cover the whole ones with powdered sugar. • Brush the base of the pate brisee with melted white chocolate, let it set. • Fill the tart shells with pastry cream and pile on the strawberries. • Drizzle with honey and sprinkle on pistachio. Serve chilled.

BEAU | Plaza Indonesia, Basement Floor, Jalan MH Thamrin, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2992 4257 Facebook: beaujkt | Instagram: @beaujkt

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W E N T T H E R E AT E T H AT

SWEET TREATS FROM GORONTALO by RIAN FARISA

s one of Indonesia’s northern frontiers, Gorontalo possesses a mesmerizing lay of land that includes fertile lowlands, pristine beaches, and a range of hills and mountains separating the northern and southern part of the province. While Gorontalo may be smaller when compared to other provinces in Sulawesi, its full potential is waiting to be discovered. A single culinary trip with Arie Parikesit’s Kelana Rasa and Omar Niode Foundation brought me to realize how impressive this province would be in the future. Within only 15 years since Gorontalo was inaugurated as a province of its own, the people have witnessed so many improvements here and there. While Gorontalo is slowly becoming a major tourism destination, the efforts done by Omar Niode Foundation to promote the province and Indonesia’s foremost culinary tour programs held by Kelana Rasa will surely quicken the pace to fulfill this dream. So how about the desserts that I mentioned earlier? Rich in produce such as coconut and palm sugar makes Gorontalo a haven to enjoy both savory and sweet treats. Here we present you some of the best places to experience a whole different dimension of Indonesian desserts in Gorontalo City. PIA OLIVIA Pia, or the bigger sized bakpia, is a heritage snack that was influenced from Chinese sweet rolls. While the latter can be mostly found in the Pathok district of Yogyakarta, pia itself has now already gained recognition in other places outside of Yogyakarta such as Bali, Bandung, and also in Gorontalo. A visit to Pia Olivia is a must while in Gorontalo. Not only that is it crispy on the outer layer and satisfyingly thick when you start to dig in, the pia is also generously filled with your selection of chocolate, mung beans, or cheese. While it is also reasonably priced, the pias are freshly baked every single day. For your personal satisfaction, it also comes in four different sizes. One other best part aside from how fulfilling these delicious snacks are, there is no need for you to queue that long or place

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As a province surrounded by seas and rich in produce, Gorontalo would be a great culinary destination for unique Indonesian dishes. In addition to that, seeking out the sweet treats in Gorontalo can also be an adventure on its own.

an order for many days prior. Just come in and have all that you want! PUSAT JAJANAN TA UCHI Elusive yet sought after by many, Pusat Jajanan Ta Uchi has no official name and sometimes also referred to as Kue Telaga. This home industry specializing in many kinds of local delicacies is basically only known to locals, but when you are in Gorontalo, a quest to search this dessert haven is a must. People would come by every day to order hundreds of its snacks and desserts for weddings, congregations, and for reselling as well. The “die die must try” at Ta Uchi is her apang bale or the round-shaped pastry filled with unti (young coconut mixed with palm sugar), the Gorontalo version of kue cucur (fried rice flour with palm sugar), and susen (Dutch-style profiterole, known also as kue soes in Java). On the other hand for savory treats, be sure to try Ta Uchi’s cala isi or the Gorontalo-style kue lumpur topped with coconut milk sauce, shredded bonito, chilies, and fried shallots. Lastly, be sure to arrive here early and by that we mean around 6am to 8am if you want fresher, more options to pick from. KUKIS KARAWO IBU TELDA The legacy of baking cookies has been known in almost every household in Indonesia, especially during special celebrations. In Gorontalo, a husband and wife couple started their own ingenious take on cookies by presenting something different. While the cookies here are basically made from usual ingredients such as flour, eggs, sugar, and butter; the owner decided to painstakingly decorate each and every cookie with beautiful, flowery patterns based on the authentic Gorontalo fabric known as kain kerawang/karawo. Hence the cookies are also called as Kukis Karawo. The cookies come in many flavors such as mocha, several versions of chocolate, strawberry and also cheese. The decorating is done manually for hours, but admiringly, the couple can fulfill so many orders from in and outside Gorontalo - from common people to high-tier officials from Jakarta numbering in the hundreds. PIA OLIVIA | Jalan Taman Pendidikan, Kel. Moodu, Kec. Kota Timur, Gorontalo | T: +62 813 4000 1349 PUSAT JAJANAN TA UCHI | Jalan H. Bilendatu (formerly known as Jalan Teknik) – behind Masjid Agung Telaga Biru, Gorontalo

W E N T T H E R E AT E T H AT

KUKIS KARAWO IBU TELDA | Jalan Gunung Soputan no. 22, Gorontalo | T: +62 812 4444 1493

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T H E FI N E R T H I N G S

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T H E FI N E R T H I N G S

The Competitive Chef by SAHIRI LOING photographs by DENNIE RAMON

His penchant for joining cooking competitions has proven to be fruitful. But he said that the real competition is the ones he faces everyday.

ometimes a string of awards might not feel satisfactory if it’s not achieved on behalf of your own country. Apparenty that was what pastry chef, Deddy Sutan, felt when he garnered his accomplishments during his station abroad. While working in Dubai—for Shangri-La, Kempinski, and The Address Dubai Mall— Deddy and his team looks like the reigning champ in the pastry-based “Olympics”, starting from 2007 when he was awarded the gold medal from the association of the Emirates Culinary Guild for Pastry Practical Cake Decoration up to winning all category at the Asian Pastry Cup this year. But his previous collection of gold isn’t quite as meaningful as the last one he got. “When I was still in Dubai, I told my friends let’s go for something bigger,” he says. “Let’s try to represent Indonesia—let’s wave our own country’s flag.”And that finally he does. At first he might seemed ambitious, or more precisely, competitive. So naturally I asked him about whether he has a competitive streak in his blood. “For me joining a competition is more about testing my skills,” he answers. “I wanted to test myself. You can say I’m a very curious person, and so when I didn’t win, I’m always very curious of what I did wrong, and hopefully I can correct the mistakes.” Seeing the list of his achievements, it’s obvious that he pretty much had corrected that, but one that he is most proud of

was being crowned as The Best Pastry Chef of The Year 2007 by the Emirates Culinary Guild. “When I first started trying out many people were pessimistic, telling me that I couldn’t make it,” he says. “Even when I started going into this profession professionally, I met a lot of discouraging people who would display their seniority. But then over the years you start showing them your competency and they eventually start appreciating you.” But of course Deddy also noted that he couldn’t have done it all without meeting a few good Samaritans along the way. “You can say I had a lot of mentors, especially chef Anthony Collar,” he says. “He was very disciplined, such a perfectionist. He taught me the basics in how to be the perfect pastry chef.” He was also inspired by Andrew Chang, whose dessert creations, based on chocolate snickers, motivates him to cook up a menu that tells a story. “His dessert tells his story, and I like that. He is a great conceptor and motivator as well—he always motivates me to try something new.” The 37-year-old chef isn’t shy in admitting that his other source of inspiration comes from books. “In fact, Anthony encouraged me to buy recipe books to widen my horizon,” he says. “But one word of advice though: don’t believe everything that’s listed in those books.” So what’s his recipe “bible”? He swears by Apprenez Art des Entremets de France by G.J

RAFFLES JAKARTA | Ciputra World 1, Jl. Prof. Dr. Satrio Kav. 3-5, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2988 0888 www.raffles.com/jakarta

Bellouet and J.M Perruchon and Saveurs Chocolatees. The now Raffles Hotel-based Executive Pastry Chef has a penchant for chocolates that eventually got him involved with Pipiltine Cocoa, a restaurant and microscale chocolate factory. It’s a noble and ambitious project, mostly due to their mission in using—and promoting—only made-in-Indonesia cocoa beans. Despite being the third chocolate producers in the world, our chocolates are sadly shipped off to some European countries that in turn made the world population addicted to chocolates. (Although, according to Deddy, it’s more appropriate to call the products “chocolate candy”.) “Areas such as Jember, Bali, Banyuwangi, and even Aceh actually produces one of the best cocoa beans in the world,” he says. “But, yeah, they’re mostly exported abroad. It is very disconcerting that there seems to be no effort from the government to rectify this situation.” For now the chef has no plans to be involved in future competitions (except for the Asian Pastry Cup next year where he will proudly wave his own country’s flag), instead prefering to focus more on his day job at the Arts Restaurant in Raffles. “But, for me, everyday is a competition,” he says. “Each day I have to make sure every menu I make lives up to a certain standard. Like Anthony once said to me, winning is actually easy, but maintaining it is difficult.”

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FI N E R T H I N G S

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FI N E R T H I N G S

I want to have a good body, but not as much as I want dessert. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Jason Love Comedian

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T R I E D A N D TI P S I E D

Fun with Rum by SAHIRI LOING photographs by DENNIE RAMON

From the byproduct of the sugar industry in the Carribean islands to one of the favored mixers of cocktail afficionados all over the world, the rum is made even more premium with the arrival of Plantation Rum

ately the cocktail scene has been making a comeback. With New York and London blazing the way for cocktail experimentation, now France has also followed suit with new bars and restaurants mushrooming these past few years. Naturally, several countries in Asia have welcomed this cocktail boom, and now the France-based spirits producer, Cognac Ferrand, is introducing one of their top brands, the Plantation Rum, into the Asian market. Taking place at Loewy, Mega Kuningan, Cognac Ferrand held a “Rum and Cigars” event that presents the perfect pairig between rum-based cocktails and premium cigars from Cuban to Montecristo, assisted by guest Mixologist, Charles Olivier, who concocts refreshing cocktails using a mixture of dark chocolate and coffee. The pairing of rum (instead of cognac) and cigars might be very masculine, but their one true mission is actually more basic: to reintroduce quality rum to liquor connoiseurs. “Not so long ago rum kind of took a backseat compared to other spirits like whisky or cognac,” says Claire Bruyere, Brand Ambassador for Cognac Ferrand. “People were not considering rum as a serious spirit. And at the same time, the rum industry is also not open to changes. And so we want to educate people more about rum.” If you often associate rum as being a pirate’s drink (with “yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum”), then the origin of the Plantation Rum might reinforce that notion: their rums hail from the Carribean islands such as Barbados,

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Grenada, Guyana, Jamaica, Nicaragua, Panama, and Trinidad. Using old-timey methods—produced in tiny rum distilleries using copper pots and aged in barrels underneath the tropical sun—the rums will then undergo a second aging process in the Ferrand estate in France; refined once more for months in small French oak barrels. “Our love affair with true rum began when we sold the prized casks that once held our Cognac to better rum producers,” says Alexandre Gabriel, founder of the Cognac Ferrand Estate. “Ninety-nine percent of rums are aged in barrels that once held bourbon, and we found this adds extra complexity to the rum. This practice has almost dissapeared now, and we thought, who better than Ferrand to ressurect this ancient technique.” Who better indeed. The marriage of the two institutions— the artisanal producers of the Carribean and the expertise and exceptional casks of Cognac Ferrand—has produced a full-bodied collection of rums that are representatives of the distinct flavors of each region. “The aging process in each area in the Carribean will take around seven to nine years, and then about two more years in France,” explains Bruyere. “With that in mind, you can expect the taste to be more exotic—with hints of banana, coconut, pine, vanilla, oak, pineapple, and many others—as we still use the ‘old knowledge’ to produce the rums. And the beauty of rum for me is that rums from different years will give off different flavors and characteristics.” “Because the Plantation Rum is made

from sugar cane juice [not molasses], it definitely gives off a very fresh and bolder character,” says Kiki Moka, Union Group Head of Mixologist. “And also it has a tinge of sweetness in it so it’s a perfect dessert cocktail, especially if you pair it with chocolate-, vanilla-, or orange-based desserts.” Claire also has the mission to once again popularize spirits as something to experience. “These days the younger crowd loves to drink cocktails or maybe tequila so that they can get drunk but, with Plantation, we want to make the experience of drinking enjoyable,” she says. “That’s why we’re having this event tonight with the Rum and Cigars theme.” Bruyere seems weary about the usage of the term “artisanal” as there are many brands that flouts the concept to describe the intricate making-of process today. “Sometimes it implies something that is fancy, even though it’s not,” she says. “But Plantation Rum has definitely been using this concept for twenty-six years, before the term became widespread as it is today.” And thankfully, Cognac Ferrand hasn’t been neglecting the small rum producers of the Caribbean islands, helping them built— and distribute—bigger crop of sugar canes that has been one of the sources of the country’s livelihood. “It’s a very difficult thing to get it right,” says Gabriel, “but when done well, it’s paradise. In the Carribean, Plantation Rums are rare treasures. At Ferrand, they become jewels.”

T R I E D A N D TI P S I E D

The Classics: Grande Reserve 5 Year Old â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Barbados (Carribean) A smooth 5-year-old Barbados rum that is bursting with flambeed banana with a hint of vanilla, coconut, and dried fruit flavors.

The Historical Vintages: Jamaica 2000 Vintage The rum took a longer fermentation (2 to 3 weeks)), then distilled in an old copper potâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a practice that has been largely discarded. But the result has more character and a broader range of tropical aromas.

The Exotic Vintages:Grenada 1998 vintage Subtle yet also complex, this vintage rum has a delicate jasmine notes with exotic aromas of pineapple, banana, and vanilla.

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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D

DARK CHOCOLATE CREATED BY CHARLES OLLIVIER Serves: 1

INGREDIENTS:

50 ml Plantation Rhum Barbados 2001 15 ml Martini Rosso 5 ml Maraschino Liquor 1 dash Chocolat bitters

STEPS

• Built in the glass and serve in a chilled cocktail glass. • Garnish with an orange zest.

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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D

COFFEE JAM CREATED BY AUDREY HANDS Serves 1

INGREDIENTS:

50 ml Plantation Jamaica 2001 10 ml Patron XO Dark Cocoa 25 ml Maple sirup

STEPS

• Pour all the ingredients into an ice-filled mixing glass, still and serve in a coupette. • Garnish with a shredded cinnamon stick.

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S P EC I A L S ECTIO N

A Food-filled 4th of July by SAHIRI LOING photographs by DENNIE RAMON AND JED DOBLE

The United States celebrates their Independence Day on the 4th of July. It is a holiday to commemorate the struggles of their forefather, as well as a special day to gather together with family and friends over great food.

t’s not everyday we get the chance to have a U.S. Ambassador making a dish exclusively right in front of us. But if we are to get an insight into the Americans’ favorite 4th of July menu, then what better source than the main U.S. representative in Indonesia himself, right? Robert Blake, the incumbent U.S. Ambassador to Indonesia, set aside his time for The Foodie magazine to share his favorite dish for the Independence Day celebration. A knife in hand and an apron wrapped around his waist, Mr.Blake seems very at home in the kitchen of his residence in Menteng, Central Jakarta. So what exactly did he make especially for us? “This is a Wild Rice Salad,” says Ambassador Blake as he nimbly starts chopping off the oranges. “It’s what we called a summer salad, which consists of organic wild rice, scallions [or green onions], pecan nuts, orange peel, a little salt, olive oil, and orange juice, and if it’s available, fresh blueberries. But this can be very hard to find here.” But, for this occasion, due to the trouble in finding fresh blueberries, he settles for mini tomatoes instead. And if the crunchy organic wild rice is unavailaible in your nearest grocery store, the Ambassador says that brown rice is a good substitute. “For me what’s great about it is how fresh it is, and it has a great combination of ingredients--the orangey taste really balanced off the other flavors,” he says. “For me, as long as you have the right ingredients, you can’t go wrong.” According to the Ambassador, this particular salad is a refreshing alternative to the common summer dish. “Sometimes we can be very conventional, for instance the salad that we would have for the 4th of July is your normal potato salad or coleslaw,” he says. “And so this wild rice salad provides a nice variation.” Other than the salad, like most Americans, Mr.Blake enjoys a good barbeque to accompany the 4th of July celebration. “I love a good grilled chicken or sausages,” he says. “Especially chicken but you marinate it first with lemon juice when it’s still uncooked.”

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S P EC I A L S ECTIO N

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S P EC I A L S ECTIO N

RICE SALAD Serves: 4

INGREDIENTS: 250 gr 1.3 liter 200 gr 200 gr 1 pc 50 gr 4 pcs 60 ml 80 ml 1 1/2 tsp

Raw wild rice Chicken stock Pecan or walnut Raisins Orange, zested Fresh mint leaves, chopped Spring onion, thinly sliced Olive oil Orange juice Salt Black pepper, to taste

STEPS

• Rinse the rice thoroughly then place in a medium-size saucepan. • Add in stock and bring to a rapid boil. Turn the heat down and simmer for 30-45 minutes. • Check the doneness after 30 minutes; the rice should be firm and not too soft. Drain the water and transfer the rice into a bowl. • Combine all the ingredients together with the rice and toss gently. Adjust seasoning to taste and let the salad stand for two hours to allow flavors to develop. Serve at room temperature.

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S P EC I A L S ECTIO N

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S P EC I A L S ECTIO N RED, WHITE & BLUE ON A PLATE For desserts, we got two sneak peeks from two diplomats from the U.S. Embassy.First off we have a special recipe for Red Velvet Cake from Mary Ellen Countryman. Though her specialty is chocolate brownies but for one obvious reason Mary Ellen decided to bake us a delicious Red Velvet Cake instead. “This goes perfectly with Cream Cheese Frosting,” she says. “Also, it is already red and white, so we just need to add something blue to get the colors of our flag. Indonesians should make this cake for August 17 because it’s merah-putih!” For Mary Ellen, the memory of the 4th of July consists of her family home by the lake where swimming and eating hamburgers or hotdogs were the norm. “And, of course, we couldn’t wait until evening came because that meant fireworks!,” she reminisces. “I tried to decorate my cake with a firework motif, in memory of those happy July 4th evenings.” Mary Ellen has a few tips to make the perfect Cream Cheese Frosting. “Try to use Philadelphia Cream Cheese to make it more authentic and tasty,” she advises, “but this can be quite expensive here, so you can substitute with the local brand of cream cheese or mix them half and half. Most importantly: you have to use the solid cream cheese, NOT the ‘whipped’ or ‘easy to spread’ version which has a lot of air in it.”

RED VELVET CAKE Serves: 8 inch cake

INGREDIENTS:

3/4 cup Unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pans 2 1/2 cups Cake flour (not self- rising), sifted, plus more for pans 3 tbsp Unsweetened cocoa powder 1 1/2 tsp Baking powder 2 cups Sugar 3 pcs Large eggs 1 tsp Vanilla extract 1/4 tsp Salt 2 pcs Liquid red food coloring, (one ounce bottles) 3 tbsp Water, lukewarm 1 cup Buttermilk 1 tsp Baking soda 1 tbsp White vinegar

STEPS

• Preheat oven to 350 degrees celsius. Butter two 8-by-2-inch round cake pans. Line with parchment paper, and butter again. Dust with flour, and tap out the excess; set

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aside. In a medium bowl, sift together cake flour, cocoa, and baking powder; set aside. • In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the butter and sugar, and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, or about 15 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add vanilla, salt, food coloring, and water; beat, scraping down the sides of the bowl, until well combined. Add reserved dry ingredients in additions, alternating with the buttermilk; beat on low speed until well combined. • In a small bowl, stir together baking soda and vinegar; add to batter. Beat on medium speed for 10 seconds. Be sure not to overbeat. Divide batter between prepared pans, and bake until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove pans from oven, and transfer to a wire rack to cool, about 15 minutes. Turn cakes out onto rack; let stand until completely cool. • Using a serrated knife, trim tops of cakes so surfaces are level. Place a layer on a cake stand or cardboard round, and spread about 1/3 of the frosting over top. Place

the second layer on top, and spread with the remaining frosting over the tops and sides of assembled cake. Transfer to refrigerator, and chill until ready to serve.

CREAM CHEESE FROSTING Serves: 3 cups

INGREDIENTS: 2 pcs 1/2 cup 1 tsp 2 cups

STEPS

Cream cheese, 8-ounce package Unsalted butter, softened, Pure vanilla extract Powdered sugar, sifted

• In a large mixing bowl, beat the cream cheese, butter and vanilla together until smooth. Add the sugar and on low speed, beat until incorporated. Increase the speed to high and mix until very light and fluffy. • Use right away or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

S P EC I A L S ECTIO N Next we have a very special recipe for a light and cooling dessert from Deb Mak, E-Education Coordinator, U.S. Embassy Jakarta. “For me, the 4th of July is also a celebration of long, hot summer days and nights—it’s an important time for us to get together with friends and family,” she says. “Where we are from—Ohio—we have four seasons and the fourth of July is in the heart of the summer. So it’s perfect to

have a good picnic, watching the kids chase fireflies, and watching fireworks.” For this month’s dessert theme, Deb created especially for Foodie magazine her favorite summer dish: the Summer Meringue. “Because it is hot during Ohio summers, we like our desserts to be light and cool,” she says. “When you add the fresh whipped cream and the seasonal berries it makes it a refreshing dessert for a warm evening.”

As with any baking, the trick in making it is to use the best ingredient you can find: fresh eggs for the meringue and good whipping cream, but “use very little sugar for the whipped cream,” advises Deb. But for the 4th of July celebration, she likes to make her summer meringue a little bit more patriotic. “Basically you can use any seasonal fruit, but I will use red and blue berries for a fourth of July celebration—so it’ll be red, white, and blue!”

SUMMER MERINGUE Serves: 4

INGREDIENTS: 4 pcs 1 1/4 cups 1 tsp 1 tsp 1 tbsp

Egg whites Fine white sugar White vinegar Vanilla extract Corn starch Fresh Fruit, for garnish Whipped cream

STEPS

• Preheat oven to 180°C. • Using an electric mixer, beat egg whites and sugar for 10 minutes or until thick and glossy • Mix vinegar, vanilla and cornstarch together, add to meringue • Beat mixture on high speed for another 5 minutes • Line a flat baking tray with baking paper • Draw a 22 cm circle on the baking paper • Spread the meringue mixture to within 2 cm of the edge of the circle, keeping the shape as round and even as possible • Smoothen over the surface of the meringue • Place meringue in the oven then turn down the oven temperature to 100°C, bake for 1 hour • Turn oven off • Open oven door slightly and leave meringue in oven until cold • Carefully lift meringue onto a serving plate • Decorate with whipped cream and fresh fruit

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TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S

RUJAK ES KRIM & ES PODENG MAMAT (ACOENG)

Indonesian homemade ice cream is always a nostalgic dessert to try from time to time. How about when it is combined with rujak or es podeng? Pak Mamat has the right recipe for you to try!

by RIAN FARISA

ak Mamat is always busy helping his fellow hawkers with their merchandise. Sometimes he would serve people who want to buy the gorengan (Indonesian fritters) and also getuk (cassava-based dessert) whenever he’s free. When I came around to talk to him, he was more than enthusiastic to share about his rujak es krim business. He has confidence that I rarely see from other people of his business. Street food oftentimes comprises of people coming from simple background and with the purest intent to survive and feed their family by selling popular food. They are often shy and closed when asked about their business, but with Pak Mamat, his confidence shines just as bright as what he offers with his rujak es krim and es podeng. Initially, he was only selling ice cream and successfully running as many as 24 pushcarts around East Jakarta. It dwindled and afterwards, he decided to marry his ice cream recipe with Yogyakarta-style rujak as taught by his former business partner. As time went by, Pak Mamat

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successfully honed the taste and the quality as well. His creative take was credited from his curiosity in learning and experimenting every day while also having the privilege to be recognized by important Indonesian cuisine icons such as William Wongso, Bondan Winarno, and also Arie Parikesit. From them, he learned how not to compromise quality at all despite of the ups-and-downs of the ingredients’ prices and that several modifications were needed in order to reach an acceptable taste for many but also unique at the same time. His version of rujak tujuh bulan that comprises of sliced young mango, jicama, ambarella, carrot, and cucumber is all mixed masterfully with secret ingredients and terasi (shrimp paste). This created a complex flavor of freshness coming from good quality fruits and vegetables as well as the sweet and spicy notes. While the terasi may taste subtle, it gave a whole different dimension to the rujak itself. The most unique thing I found was that he combined the rujak with three flavors of homemade ice cream from durian,

chocolate, and coconut. Now, you might want to add more sambal to make it spicier but this alone is already an adventure of its own. Imagine such complexity found on a single bowl of paradise like that! In addition to that, Pak Mamat sells his version of es podeng that comprises of simpler ingredients but more colorful than the ones that we often find on the streets. For this, he uses diced bread, pacar cina (agar-agar shaped like pearls), roasted peanuts, sliced fresh avocado, and four flavors of ice cream. The fourth flavor is apparently avocado ice cream and it is a must-try experience for everyone! Now Pak Mamat spends his time running his business with his humble pushcarts in front of Apotek Rini and also one in Bekasi. Occasionally he’s asked by both Arie Parikesit and Bondan Winarno to present his wonderful rujak es krim for food festivals to as far as Kalimantan! So, if you haven’t tried this street dessert, spend some time going to the east and enjoy one of the finest from this part of Jakarta.

TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S

OPENING HOURS: Mon-Sat, from 9am – 6pm SPEND: IDR 8,000 / portion

RUJAK ES KRIM & ES PODENG MAMAT (ACOENG) | Jalan Balai Pustaka (in front of Apotek Rini), Jakarta

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TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S

Sweet and Simple by GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY

his small warung, located right in the middle of Pasar Bendungan Hilir in Central Jakarta is known for its excellent Padang food as well as some of the best West Sumatran desserts that you can find in Jakarta. Needless to say, these treats will satisfy your taste buds. It has a humble façade – it is simply an open stall with simple, plain wooden tables and stools. But you can immediately tell that this unassuming warung actually offers more than what it looks. Step inside and you will be greeted by a tempting display of sweet delicacies, West Sumatran style. Here you can find the famous desserts such as Bubur Kampiun, Ketan Sarikayo, Lupis and Serabi. We bet you will have trouble deciding which one to choose first. Bubur Kampiun is a traditional delicacy that cannot be found easily in cities outside West Sumatera, such as in Jakarta. However, Bopet Mini serves this dessert on its daily menu. The sweet porridge obtained its name, which was derived from the English word ‘champion’, from its origin as the winning recipe in a dessert cooking competition that took place in Padang in the 1960s. In a bowl of Bubur Kampiun, you will find bits of each of some very popular Indonesian desserts, such as kolak pisang (banana stewed in brown sugar), bubur sumsum (rice flour porridge), bubur candil (glutinous rice ball in brown sugar syrup), bubur kacang hijau (mung bean porridge), and sarikayo (brown sugar and coconut milk custard), all drenched in thin coconut milk. With such a rich combination of toppings, you can imagine that Bubur Kampiun is truly a celebration of flavors. Another appealing choice at Bopet Mini is Ketan Sarikayo, which is a mouthwatering combination of steamed sticky rice (ketan) and creamy sarikayo (brown sugar and coconut milk custard). The unique match of firm-textured ketan and the velvety sarikayo will create an unforgettable sensation as you feel it smoothly melt inside your mouth. And while you may have already known about lupis and serabi, you really must try Bopet Mini’s versions of these traditional snacks. You will find that lupis, which is sticky rice cake that has the unique color and aroma of banana leaves and the signature triangular shape, here is more firm in texture. This rice cake, topped with thick palm sugar syrup, is a perfect remedy to

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A pasar or traditional market may not be on top of our list when the craving for something sweet kicks in, but you seriously need to take a look at what Rumah Makan Bopet Mini has to offer, sweet wise.

your sweet craving. Bopet Mini also makes special serabi (rice flour cake) that is plump, soft and fragrant, complete with sweet coconut sugar syrup with a hint of savory coconut milk. If you are interested to try these

delicacies, do come early when the warung is not busy serving people, especially on the weekends. Put aside all the luxurious and lavish desserts you used to have and enjoy the simplicity of traditional sweet treats at Bopet Mini.

TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S

OPENING HOURS: Daily, 6am â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4pm

RUMAH MAKAN BOPET MINI | Pasar Bendungan Hilir - Ground Floor, Jalan Bendungan Hilir Raya, Jakarta

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I CO N I C

Fatty Goodness by GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY

Jakartans call it martabak manis, while in Java its known as kue terang bulan. No dessert issue should go without this well-loved local sweet indulgence.

artabak the hearty pancake-like dish that comes in sweet and savory form. Savory martabak has eggs, minced meat, scallions and other toppings, while sweet martabak has traditional toppings like chocolate rice, chopped peanuts, cheese, condensed milk, roasted sesame seeds, to the latest innovative additions such as Toblerone and the crunchy chocolate spread, Ovomaltine. Martabak manis, which was actually developed as dessert, is now more popular as a snack or comfort food for most people, especially in Jakarta. This trend was not around until a few years back, when some of the most popular martabak stalls began exploring creative topping options. It was not long before new stalls flourished and offered the most creative martabak that you can imagine. Some of them have survived, some didn’t make it. One of the most legendary martabak stalls that survived is the Martabak Top Bandung Gendut, which is our favorite. The stall in Santa area, which is positioned on Wolter Monginsidi Street, has been serving since 1991. It may not look

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much, just a humble food cart, but never underestimate the wonderful taste of their martabak. Martabak Top Bandung Gendut has almost everything you can expect from a martabak stall: classic variants such as the special complete toppings martabak, special cheese martabak, and special mix martabak, and also some very special toppings such as durian, banana and cheese, and raisins. As for the name Gendut, which means fat, we believe it was not after the big bellied martabak maker or a reminder that you will get fat from eating this martabak, but it is more a statement to identify their fluffy and relatively big-portioned martabak. The owner of Martabak Gendut had seriously developed the formula to make a perfect rising batter that produces fluffy cake as the base for a heavenly moist and delicious martabak. This time we had Martabak Gendut’s best selling menu, which is the special complete martabak with choco rice, peanuts, sesame seeds, sweetened condensed milk, cheese and a good dollop of Wijsman butter. Sounds appealing, doesn’t it? We can feel our mouth water as

they generously sprinkled the toppings on top of the steamy pancake. Since Martabak Gendut does not provide tables for dine in, we placed order for a take away martabak. You can imagine our struggle not to nip the martabak and pop a bit of it into our mouth as it oozed out wonderful aroma that filled our car along the drive home. And when we finally got to taste it, it was already 30 minutes since we left the stall, but trust us, it was still very fluffy and moist. Try biting into it, and you can feel the sensational explosion of amazing tastes that come from the melted chocolate, butter and cheese, which beautifully merge with the pleasing crunchy texture of the roasted peanuts and the distinct aroma of sesame, all come together to give you a very satisfying eating experience. Before we even realized it, there was only one slice of left within less than half an hour. You know the last part is always the best part, and who wouldn’t want to have that last slice? Maybe next time we should get each a full portion of Martabak Gendut so we won’t have to fight for that last piece of heaven.

I CO N I C

MARTABAK TOP BANDUNG GENDUT (SANTA) | Jalan Wolter Monginsidi, opposite Subur Digital Printing Opens everyday from 4.30 PM to midnight

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CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E

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CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E

William Sudhana by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON AND PERSONAL COLLECTION

Few are lucky enough to pursue their passions, one such lucky individual is William Sudhana of #WeTheFoodies.

illiam has always been an avid photographer. “Basically, I’ve had a passion in photography since 2009. I started shooting weddings, because I liked the emotions associated with wedding photography,” he shares. William also tells me that his photography is self taught, he did not take any formal lessons. When he started to pursue this hobby, he thought he was going to make a career out of it, eventually wanting to set up a wedding photography business. But alas, that was not bound to happen… Yet… After graduating with an electrical and electronics engineering degree in 2011 from Nottingham University, William came back to Jakarta to find out that it wasn’t easy to start a career as a photographer. Of course this plus other pressures made him join the corporate world and accept a marketing job from a local firm. But of course his passion for photography remained. That was until he discovered Instagram in September last year. He saw the social media app as a way to continuing his photography hobby. “At that time, coffee shops were booming everywhere, and it was becoming a lifestyle trend, to hang out in these cafes and to be drinking coffee, so I started to take photos of my coffee and post it on Instagram.” Little did he know back then that what he was

Instagram: @williamsudhana | @wethefoodies | #WeTheFoodies

doing was the beginning of a career shift. “I knew nothing about taking good food photos,” William confesses. But with practice and his own sense of style plus his photographic eye, he started to improve and get into it. William also admits that he is a foodie, “I am a huge foodie, I am eager to try new things. When I was in Thailand, I even ate insects.” His love of food and photography eventually led him to meet like-minded individuals, other foodies, and there began his ‘community.’ “I like simple shots, I make them look clean, but it tells a story.” That is how William describes his now popular style of food photography. I have to admit, that I am a fan. I have followed his Instagram feed for a few months now and love seeing his posts. Like many of his Instagram followers, I have been enticed by his interesting approach to food photography. But William has gone a step further and has started to build a community of food photography enthusiasts. #WeTheFoodies was spearheaded by William and eight other popular foodie Instagrammers. I think it is William’s personal charm and friendly demeanor which makes it easy for him to start a community like this. And now, he has taken it another step further by starting his own food photography business. He has quit his marketing job and has decided to focus

on his photography. “I see that more and more brands will focus their marketing on the digital platform. That’s why we are determined to break into this industry,” William shares. So in fact, using his passion for photography plus his passion for food, William has now embarked into a new career. Although he has been delayed for a few years, his earlier plan of earning a living from being a photographer has come into fruition. William tells me that they now work with a number of restaurants, cafes and brands, who like their style of photography and are even interested in creating marketing campaigns with them to tap the foodie community they have started. William is a great example of how personal passions have turned hobbies into career opportunities. But before we end, I cannot let William go without asking him to confess his favorite foods. “I love rendang and nasi goreng. I can eat them anytime.” This being the dessert issue, I ask what his favorite desserts are. “I don’t want to disappoint you, but I am not a big dessert fan. I don’t have a sweet tooth.” Of course as an avowed dessert fiend, I am slightly disappointed, but as food is hugely personal, what can I say. I wish William and his #WeTheFoodies success in their endeavors and look forward to seeing more amazing food photography!

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TRIED AND TESTED

W EBBER >< T H E FOODIE

Fermented Cassava Muffins

by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON

Culinary icon William Wongso creates a dish which fuses his ardent passion for Indonesian cuisine and his training and skill in pastry and baking.

hen I met Om William for this cooking demonstration and photo shoot, he had just come back from a one-month trip to China and the United States. Undoubtedly, William Wongso is the most recognized culinary expert in the country. He constantly travels the world, championing Indonesian cuisine, endeavoring to open the minds and palates of his audiences to the delectability of Indonesian food. Under the banner of his Aku Cinta Masakan Indonesia (ACMI), Om William has been instrumental in preserving as well as sharing the huge variety of traditional Indonesian culinary culture. In the U.S., Om William was able to share the wealth of Indonesian traditional cuisine. He conducted a number of Indonesian Culinary workshops at prestigious culinary institutions such as Le Cordon Bleu Pasadena, Le Cordon, Bleu Boston, Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Academie de Cuisine in Maryland, and at the Culinary Institute of America in Greystone where he also represented Indonesia for the 17th Annual Worlds of Flavor International Conference and Festival. His role as Indonesiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culinary ambassador, introducing and promotion Indonesian cuisine abroad is unparalleled. I do find it fitting that when we asked Om William to share a recipe for Tried & Tested that he chose this dish, Fermented Cassava Muffins. Fermented cassava or tape is a local delicacy with a sweet and acidic taste and a mild alcoholic flavor. It is prepared by fermenting the cassava root. Tape is made into a variety of dishes, both savory and sweet and is also found in iced desserts such as es teller and es campur. Here, Om William uses the fermented cassava to make muffins. The tape gives the muffins a deep and rich flavor, and also gives the muffins a moist and chewy texture. These are perfect to end a meal or are a great afternoon snack for the kids too.

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B R O U G H T TO Y O U B Y W E B B E R

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TRIED AND TESTED

FERMENTED CASSAVA MUFFINS Serves: 12

INGREDIENTS:

250g Fermented cassava 100g Butter 100g Flour 100g Icing sugar 3pc Eggs 1/2 tsp Baking powder 1/2 tbsp Ovalet (stabilizer) Raisins Almonds, sliced Cheddar cheese, grated

STEPS

• Mash fermented cassava, remove any hard pieces • Mix butter, vanilla compound and icing sugar until fluffy • Add eggs one by one, until fluffy

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B R O U G H T TO Y O U B Y W E B B E R • Fold in mashed fermented cassava into the mixture • Sift together flour and baking powder • Fold the flour mixture gradually into the wet ingredients using a spatula until well blended • Add the raisins and mix well

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STUFF OF LEGENDS

HARYANTO MAKMOER – THE MASTER BAKER by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA AND PERSONAL COLLECTION

A master baker, a researcher, a business consultant, and also a lecturer. Our Stuff of Legends’ icon for this issue has everything that one needs to know about the pastry industry. Come, let us introduce you to Haryanto Makmoer.

STUFF OF LEGENDS

orn in a family of kopitiam entrepreneurs in Surabaya, the young Haryanto Makmoer had not yet shared his true love with cooking immediately. The fateful decision came years later but as can be seen from successful people around the world, the definition of success itself can actually start anytime – be it early or later in life. However, thanks to his family business, he’s already exposed with the lay of the kitchen, the cooking instruments, and the baking process for the pastries in the coffee shop. One time, his mother even recommended him to take a lesson from one of their relatives on how to do cake decorations professionally. Refusing to get involved in the dynamics of kitchen life, the teenage Haryanto decided to be a bookkeeper in a family’s company in Bali instead. He enjoyed his days making money for several years, but one day his relative gave him a solid piece of advice. “Haryanto, if you continue working like this without any college degree, you will become no one”, he said mimicking what he was told back then. “Then, I realized that by only doing this, I may not be able to actually help my families in need in case something happens in the future.” It was the momentum that he seized right away. He came to a realization that after all, baking has been the very thing that he knows best for years. In addition to that, there were not many male chefs yet

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around that time. He took his chances and left for Jakarta. “Even before finishing my degree at APT (now STP Trisakti), I was asked to assist my lecturer on her classes and I continued to do it several years after I graduated. I enjoy teaching so much!” he said and also mentioning that the lecturer was none other than our Stuff of Legends last year, Sisca Soewitomo. Haryanto’s conviction to specialize in the pastry world has always been both consistent and proven. In addition to lecturing, he dedicated some of his free time after college to bake and sell his own bread. “Despite only using an old oven that made my bread uneven in size, I was happy that every two days, it was all sold out!” he said proudly. After several years working as a lecturer’s assistant, he tried his luck to work in the real pastry industry. Thanks to his academic background and lecturing experience, Chef Haryanto was also assigned to become a tutor at LKI (Lembaga Kuliner Indonesia), Indonesia’s very first private educational enterprise in cooking and culinary lifestyle in early 1990s. “Here, I was introduced to other legends in the Indonesian culinary world such as Hiang Marahimin, Tuti Soenardi, and also William Wongso”, said Chef Haryanto. Although the venture was only short lived, he also became a demo chef with Hiang Marahimin and as a co-host of a healthy cooking show in TV with Tuti Soenardi. Just a few years back, he was appointed as one of the USDA Council of Chefs among the late Chef Tatang (now replaced by Chef Vindex Tengker), Chef Ucu Sawitri, and Edwin Lau. This appointment gave him the chance to learn more and to travel

around the world. He took this chance to also witness how the food business grows up in other parts of the globe. I asked about his two cents on how to make our dishes become known more internationally. “In my humble opinion, we can start unifying our traditional dishes without mentioning where they came from first, so that it can be recognized internationally with ease”, he answered. Based on his observation, he has particularly seen how Thai cuisine had achieved success in many parts of the globe due to this course of action. “Take tom yum for example. The dish itself piqued interest of many when we hear it and we all know that it came from Thailand. After gaining such interest, people would be interested to know more about it and they were surprised to know that tom yum came with different variations and regions. After that, we can talk more on regional level”, he further explained. Now, with the company he has been with for the past 23 years and also by working with other luminaries of Indonesian cuisine, Haryanto dedicates his time more on sharing his Indonesian pastry recipes into cookbooks. “I am now reserving my dream to becomming a teacher again one day. The pastry industry is a delicate one. One must know not just about the aspects of baking and chemistry, we can also learn about the economy and business as well”, said the chef who is now also spending his time back and forth Surabaya as a guest lecturer in one learning institution there. At this juncture, Haryanto Makmoer possesses a rare knowledge about the pastry industry more than anyone else around. With his background as a teacher, we are surely looking forward to seeing him back in the game once more.

STUFF OF LEGENDS

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PA N T R Y 1 0 1

Beat the Heat by KYLE GREGORIO

What’s the best way to keep yourself cool in the blistering heat of Summer? Have a bowl/ cup of your favorite iced dessert!

Semifreddo More of a cold mousse than an ice cream, Italian semifreddo may translate to “half-cold,” but it’s fully delicious! These desserts are usually a mix of whipping cream and various flavor components, often made with ice cream cake or custard. They’re quite soft, so just don’t eat them on the go! The big advantage of a semifreddo is that it requires no special equipment to make one. They come together quickly and can be served within a few hours. They also keep very well in the freezer, so while they’re great for entertaining, you can also make a batch for yourself and enjoy it over the course of a week or so.

Es Cendol Es cendol is an Indonesian drink made from rice flour served with coconut milk, sugar palm and ice cubes or shaved ice. While Indonesian people drink es cendol as a nice refreshment, a lot of Westerners like es cendol as dessert. All around Indonesia, es cendol is sold at hawker stalls. For Indonesians, the name “cendol” is related to, and originated from, the word jendol, in reference to the swollen green worm-like rice flour jelly.

Halo-halo Halo-halo, the Tagalog word for “mix mix,” is traditionally served in layers in a cup or bowl: First comes a hodgepodge of ingredients that can range from red beans and cocoa to fresh fruit, followed by a healthy scoop of shaved ice. This is all topped with evaporated milk, leche flan, ube (purple yam) ice cream, caramelized plantains, and strands of macapuno (coconut). Refreshing, exotic, and fun! Don’t let the eclectic mixture of ingredients scare you away.

PA N T R Y 1 0 1

Bào Bing Often called bào bing, shaved ice is a popular dessert in Taipei, especially during the scorching summer months. Taiwan style shaved ice is available with a variety of toppings, but most prefer fresh mango when in season. Atop the heaping bowl of shaved ice, choose from toppings like strawberries, mango, red bean, mung beans, grass jelly, taro, etc. And often times, they include a scoop of fresh ice cream…or two.

Mochi Ice Cream Most of us have probably had ice creamfilled mochi or a scoop of green tea ice cream, but we wanted to dig down into some more traditional and more interesting options. What we found: a lot of red beans. Japanese cuisine uses sweetened adzuki bean paste in more applications than you can imagine. Also ubiquitous, mochi: a glutinous, chewy rice cake that we have fallen completely in love with. Mochi can be a dumpling in a sweet dessert soup, baked, fried, stuffed with green tea cream -- the possibilities begin to feel endless. One last finding: Japanese desserts are some of the most beautiful, meticulously crafted sweets we’ve ever seen.

Gelato Gelato simply means “frozen” in Italian. It is an all-inclusive term that loosely translates to ice cream but also includes anything from sorbet and yogurt to custards. Gelato is churned differently than ice cream and contains less air. Despite its lower fat content, gelato boasts a creamy consistency and when done right is thick, dense and elastic. But what truly distinguishes gelato is its taste.

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W H AT C H E F E AT S

AYU ANJANI RAHARDJO by RIAN FARISA

Memories of the past where your parents took you on a journey to eat out can be so memorable that you wish to relive it repeatedly over the years. In this issue, our young pastry prodigy Ayu Anjani Rahardjo shares with us the secret key to win her heart.

s a curious little kid, Ayu Anjani Rahardjo cannot stand still to wait for her meals to come. Rather, she decided to involve herself in the kitchen and slowly developed her love for cooking. Seeing her passion with food, her family granted her the opportunity to study at Le Cordon Bleu in Australia. Focusing in pastry was her sole intention was since the beginning. Here Ann, as she’s called by her friends, developed her patience and meticulousness in dealing with the challenges about pastry and desserts. She returned to Indonesia several years ago and started to make a name for herself. While she’s actually good at what she’s doing, first by becoming a consultant for restaurants and also by co-hosting several cooking shows, Ann was still being modest with her achievements. “I actually enjoy it more when managing my work from behind the screen”, she said. However, together with her comrades such as Odie Djamil and Putri Miranti, she became more motivated and now is also sharing her love for pastry and desserts for the public by becoming a host of her own TV cooking show. As for what she likes most, she cannot bear not to admit it. “I love Japanese food!”, she exclaimed and based on what we were talking about regarding the Japanese dining scene in Jakarta, she clearly knows a lot and even about the hidden eateries that are only frequented by Japanese expats like in Akane, for example, as the

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place where we encountered. “Since I was just two years old, my family already introduced me with Japanese food and I was already acquainted with sushi and sashimi since a very young age”, Ann with full spirit continues her story while also ordering her favorite combination of crab cream croquette, fresh salmon, and tamagoyaki for lunch. Not just that, she had her okonomiyaki for appetizer as well!