PIG TALES NOV 14 | volume 1, Issue 10 Rp. 55,000 | S$ 8.00
INSIDE
Al Brown’s Stoked Babi Guling Trails Wandering for Pork Pork Belly Around the World
P U B L I S H E R ’ S N OT E
PIG TALES Founder Pork is my favorite protein. What more can I say. When I first moved to Jakarta, it was tough on me since it was still hard then to find good pork dishes. Back then, the best place to get any good pork was to head down to Kota and Pasar Baru. But slowly, restaurants started to serve pork. To my utmost delight, of course. This issue is our tribute to pork and the portly swine. We have traveled near and far to give you some of the best pork places in Jakarta and Bali, as well as a few places away. I really hope you like the issue as it is packed with recipes, restaurants, warungs and tiny stalls where you can find, in my opinion, the better white meat. Our cover features starts off with my interview with famous Auckland chef, Al Brown. Al runs some of the city’s best restaurants, he is a cookbook author and appears in his own TV show. Al also shares with us how to make Porchetta and a recipe from his successful cookbook, Stoked. Check out page 38 on how to win a copy of Al Brown’s Stoked. We continue on with a feature on chef Kieran Morland of Merah Putih in Bali, and how the Aussie chef has used pork on the menu. We tag along with Lidia Tanod and discover her many favorite pork places around Jakarta. We also challenge the culinary team of The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place to make us some desserts using pork, which turn out to be great successes. Plus, we share some pork belly recipes from around the world, including my own Pork Adobo recipe. In Went There Ate That, we feature Adithya Pratama’s quest for the best babi guling in Bali as he goes through his Babi Guling Trails. Wine expert Ponti Young shares with us his wine pairing suggestions for some pork dishes in Tried and Tipsied, which I thoroughly enjoyed. We also write about a few street food stalls around Jakarta serving pork, plus feature the storied Nasi Campur Kenanga in our Iconic section. This issue is packed from cover to cover with lots of succulent and juicy pork. I do hope you enjoy reading through it as I and some members of The Foodie team enjoyed making it.
JED V. DOBLE PIG TALES NOV 14 | volume 1, Issue 10 Rp. 55,000 | S$ 8.00
INSIDE
Al Brown’s Stoked Babi Guling Trails Wandering for Pork Pork Belly Around the World
Photograph by DENNIE BENEDICT
4 | www.thefoodiemag.com
Richmond Blando
Publisher Jed V. Doble Managing Editor
Kyle Gregorio
Art Director Juke Bachtiar Photographer
Dennie Benedict
Contributors
Himawan Sutanto Adithya Pratama Rian Farisa Akhmad Baihaki (Aki) Melanie Tanusetiawan Ellyna Tjohnardi
Administration Distribution
Boedy Astuti Mukti Pelupessy
PT. NUSA BINTANG LESTARI 7Y 4b[NdN_ZN[ [\ # { 8RONf\_N[ /N_b @\baU 7NXN_aN { 6[Q\[R`VN Tel: +62 21 2905 3959 www.thefoodiemag.com The Foodie Magazine is published monthly by Bold Prints Publishing. Jalan Gunawarman No. 16, Jakarta, Indonesia. The Foodie Magazine and its logo are registered trademarks of Bold Prints Publishing. COPYRIGHT 2014. The Publisher reserves the right to accept or reject all editorial and advertising material. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or copied without the explicit written consent of the Publisher. Neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any error and omission, nor any action taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All rights reserved. ISSN: 2355-0198. Printed by PT. Gramedia.
C O N T R I B U TO R S
THE GUEST LIST
HIMAWAN SUTANTO
ADITHYA PRATAMA
AKHMAD BAIHAKI (AKI)
MELANIE TANUSETIAWAN
ELLYNA TJOHNARDI
Himawan did portraiture for editorial, advertising and design clients for many years and also had a stint doing commercial photography. His love for food and travel brought him naturally to turn his lens on food and lifestyle which he thoroughly enjoys. He has recently been traveling to take photos for a global hotel chain. When not away shooting photos he tries to spend as much time with his newborn son.
After two diplomas in pastry and bakery arts, Adithya left the jacket and opted for the ink. While still engulfed in chocolate and butter, he’s also an aspiring food and travel writer, food stylist and an avid scuba diver. Join his mouth-watering discussions on Instagram @adith1801 … You’ve been warned!
Entusiastic and dedicated Aki has been a professional photographer foro _ver 10 years now. Originally from Mojokerto, East Java, in his spare time, he loves to travel, watch and play his favorite sports and listen to music.
Melanie graduated from Melbourne’s RMIT with a Bachelor of Arts in Photography and is well known for her vivid dreamlike imagination. Her love for simple living, food and people is reflected through her lifestyle work. She has also been actively involved in exhibitions and has won various awards. www.studio-melt.com
Ellyna is knee-deep in a love- hate relationship with food (like most girls are), she started my food blog culinarybonanza. com more than 2 years ago. As an acute sweet tooth, she has no difficulty eating dessert as the main course. Despite being Asian, she believes that she was born with a Westerner’s palate because of inexplicable affinity for bread, wheat and cheese instead of rice and noodles.
Photographer
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Writer/Stylist
Photographer
Photographer
Writer
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TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
The Foodie magazine volume 1, Issue 08
Things That Make You Go Yum 12
Pig Tales
At The Dinner Table By Richmond Blando 14
Failing To Succeed
The Foodie’s List 16 20 22 24 26 27 28 30
Good For Eats Pop Up Tour Espresso Italiano Ramen Delights Melbourne’s Coffee Kings Die Stube Spanky’s Prego: Fun Italian World Gourmet Forum
Cover Feature: Mommy & Me 32 40 44 50 54
Stoked Reinventing The Swine Wandering For Pork Sweet Swine Rub It For Good Measure
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TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
Finer Things 60 The Warung
Went There Ate That 64 Founder Bak Kut Teh 66 Babi Guling Trails
Tried And Tipsied 70 Pork, Pinot And Ponti
Taking It To The Streets 74 Mie Kangkung Bu Djoko 76 Kuotie Gang Bango
Iconic 78 A Plateful Of History
A Foodie’s Life 80 Rumman Amanda
Confessions Of A Foodie 82 Anastasia Siantar
Maya’s Musings 84 Xxxxx
Tried And Tested 88 Guilt-Free Pork Brunch
Stuff Of Legends 92 Hiang Marahimin – The Peranakan Cuisine Guru
Pantry 101 96 Know Your Pork
What Chef Eats 98 Adithya Pratama
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Shangri-La Hotel, Jakarta. Kota BNI. Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 1, Jakarta 10220, Indonesia. Tel (62 21) 2922 9999
Fax (62 21) 2922 9900
slj@shangri-la.com
www.shangri-la.com
T H I N G S T H AT M A K E Y O U G O Y U M
Things That Make You Go Yum is monthly column featuring our choices of the best
by ADITHYA PRATAMA
food photos on Instagram. If you think you have a great photo worth sharing with us, tag it with #TTMYGY and @TheFoodieMag
@adith1801
@angelast
@115coffee @blknrd
@budgetkuliner
@bestellen _ to
@cnlulaby
@starvingsilvy
@eatwhatah
@frankiestarr
@ervina _ madalena 12 | www. thefoodiemag.com
@himawansutanto
T H I N G S T H AT M A K E Y O U G O Y U M These mouth-watering pork dishes stole our eyes at the social media. From Chinese-style Nasi Campur to Balinese Babi Guling and some other international heart stealers made it to this page, are you drooling now?
@liaspace
@louisvillenoms
@jony _ khuo @myntmorgan
@nathali _ leong
@misshotrodqueen @otjep
@paulaelizabethx @paulineanghh
@sasmitadeo
@uliherdinansyah
@williamwongso www. thefoodiemag.com | 13
AT T H E D I N N E R TA B L E B Y R I C H M O N D B L A N D O
Failing to Succeed “There are those who look at things the way they are, and ask why... I dream of things that never were, and ask why not?” – Robert Kennedy
W
hat can I say about this issue? It is not a secret that Indonesia is predominantly a Muslim country, which may cause some eyebrows to be raised about our theme. However, “Bhineka Tunggal Ika” or “Unity in Diversity” is an accepted and embraced slogan that captures the very heart of what makes this country great. I consider myself blessed in many ways to have been exposed to many cultures growing up and even more so, as Venture Magazine has opened the doors for me to also travel frequently. Last summer I indulged myself in the diabetically inducing cuisines of USA’s desserts (East Coast), the two things that stood out to me are the milkshakes from “Five Guys” and “Good Stuff
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Eatery” (from DC). “Good Stuff Eatery” has this insanelysweet-but-can’t-stop-drinking toasted marshmallow milkshake while Five Guys serves Bacon (yes… BACON!!) Milkshake. So for this issue I am going to attempt to marry the two together and find out the perfect ratio of sweetness and saltiness and viscosity that brings out the weird smile in everyone’s face. Just a heads up, when I get obsessed about trying to invent a recipe (or at least, think that I am inventing it), I am my worst critic and needless to say, I have gone to several attempts to make this supposedly simple milkshake work. Do not be misled, THIS IS NOT A HEALTHY DRINK! It is cholesterol, processed sugar and a dab of carcinogen from the charred marshmallow all rolled into one
glorious mix that will clog some arteries. SO BE WARNED! The main challenge for me is to avoid a sugar overload, NOT for health reasons but more for taste, the 2nd challenge is use cheap local stuff that would make it very approachable. In my failed experiments, I realized the things TO NOT DO: { 1\ ;\a B`R aUR PURN] f\TUb_a \SS aUR shelf (bio kul, yummy), in fact do not use yoghurt at all – unless you like the initial odor of feet when you drink the shake, though I refused to use the frozen yoghurt or expensive brands (which defeats the purpose of making it an approachable recipe) { 1\ ;\a B`R ZVYX | b[YR`` f\b YVXR Va N OVa runny.
AT T H E D I N N E R TA B L E B Y R I C H M O N D B L A N D O
BACON MARSHMALLOW MILKSHAKE Serves: 1
INGREDIENTS 2 strips 2-3 pcs 5 scoops 1 tbsp
STEPS
Baby Back Bacon (Streaky works too but they are a bit too fatty) Large Marshmallows (4 pcs will make it too sweet) Vanilla Ice Cream (Diamond or Häagen-Dazs®) Sour Cream (to counter the sweetness, but totally optional)
{ =ba aUR TYN`` V[ S_RRgR_ S\_ N SRd U\b_` S\_ \]aVZNY cV`P\`Vaf { 3_f aUR ONP\[ a\ _R[QR_ aUR SNa _RZ\cR S_\Z ]N[ N[Q YRa Va cool to allow it to crisp, set aside { @XRdR_ ]P` \S ZN_`UZNYY\d` \_ QR]R[QV[T \[ aN`aR { =YNPR aUR `XRdR_RQ ZN_`UZNYY\d \[ aUR Ob_[R_ Va dVYY blacken and char in about 5 seconds, blow on it to prevent it from completely burning, try to keep it brown and not black
(but if not, no big deal). Otherwise, put marshmallows in a bowl and nuke it in the microwave { =ba aUR ONP\[ V[ aUR OYR[QR_ Q_f N[Q T_V[Q a\ ]_RSR__RQ texture (fine for the flavor to be evenly distributed or coarse, for the crispy bacon bit texture) { .QQ aUR T\\Rf ZN_`UZNYY\d V[a\ aUR ZVe { .QQ aUR VPR P_RNZ N[Q OYR[Q S\_ NO\ba `RP\[Q` on high { ?RZ\cR aUR TYN`` S_\Z aUR S_RRgR_ N[Q ]\b_ into glass. There you go. Don’t tell your kids what is in it just tell them it’s a surprise milkshake; it will have an uneasy reaction like a “weird but yummy” look. If not anything else, this proves the universal rule… “Everything taste better with Bacon”
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F O O DI E L I S T S
01
GOOD FOR EATS POP UP TOUR by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
Wrapping up their pop-up tour to four cities in two countries, Good For Eats took us on the big bang that ended their campaign in the historical city of Yogyakarta.
A
n early wakeup call was all that it took to get us on a plane trip to Yogyakarta for the muchanticipated dinner that Good For Eats (G48) had organized for us there. It’s both exciting and a feel good trip for me whenever it’s related to Yogyakarta, the city famed for its lengthy heritage list as well as its rustic culinary excellence. By the way, in case any of you foodies need to know better about who the guys are behind G48, we actually have introduced them in our September issue. The chefs behind Good For Eats are Fernando Sindu (Nando) and Ivan Wibowo, who in our past issue, told us on how they began the G48 venture and up until now, the time when these creative young minds are busying themselves with a throng of projects from running their own restaurant, private dinners, pop-ups, and as professional culinary consultants for up-and-coming restaurants in and out of Jakarta. Yogyakarta signified the end of their pop up tour that had been started since September. Singapore was chosen as their first stop at Toby’s Estate and then continued with Bandung at CUPS Coffee Shop, Surabaya at Historica, and finally with us at Canting in Yogyakarta. Each venue sponsored the pop-up tour for up to three days and with a special menu that only lasts during their stay there. On why they ultimately chose Yogyakarta as one of their destinations was happily explained by Chef Nando, “In one aspect, it’s all is in line with the launching of Canting, our latest restaurant project as culinary consultants. However, we also feel confident with the maturing market in
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F O O DI E L I S T S
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F O O DI E L I S T S
Yogyakarta to accept something new here”. Thus we also became the witness of what Canting has to offer in their menu and you can tell immediately, or me perhaps as a fan of G48, that it is comprised of the style that these duo usually show to people, but of course twisted with something new and colorful. Summarizing their whole tour, Chef Ivan Wibowo remarked the whole experience as exhausting but full of fun, “The most interesting part is that we also came to a conclusion that each city has their clear distinction when it comes to taste and interest”. Ivan further noted that Bandung proved to be a solid market as they’re fond of anything related with rice bowl and truth be told, G48’s flagship restaurant Umabo in Jalan Wijaya is also well-known because of this particular dish. “But the craziest part came from the Surabaya crowd and we were overwhelmed with the never ending wave of customers. The queue line was unexpectedly long as well”, said Ivan. There’s plenty of expectation on their final pop-up here in Yogyakarta and that didn’t come exclusively for us. In this lovely restaurant Canting, the duo had prepared plenty of selections with an intelligent chemistry between casual Western fare and influences from Mexican cuisine. It was nearing a full house when we arrived for dinner and most of them were seemingly enticed with the pop-up menu from G48. Famed for their proficiency with meat, we witnessed how strong these fellas in that particular department. The highlight of that night simply goes for the tender
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wagyu hanger steak with kimchi fried rice, my Southern-style fried chicken with jalapeño cheddar biscuit and whipped potatoes. Additionally, the exclusive local wagyu steak with choices ranging from rib eye, sirloin, and hanger which can be accompanied by rice pilaf, sauteed vegetables, béarnaise sauce, and roasted garlic were simply choices that anyone cannot afford to miss while having G48 around as the mano behind the kitchen. Other than these, we highly enjoyed their version of truffle French fries, huevos rancheros, and somehow we drooled over their eggs Benedict on puff pastries that our neighboring patrons chose. Of course, to highlight the night furthermore, Chef Ivan specially made us the “Toastalicious” or the French toast grilled in four corners but deliberately kept moist and soft in the middle. The toast is then combined with maple syrup, vanilla ice cream, and smoked beef. His choco-banana pie and panna cotta in bandrek sauce further showed us that his real intention from the beginning was all about pushing the boundaries where we would find explosion from the flavors and the complex texture structures. It was a big bang indeed! As of this moment, G48 will now focus on their other projects including the upand-coming eatery in a mall on downtown Jakarta and expanding Umabo as well. There’s never a better momentum than now for these boys and they sure know how to deal with it. But for sure, we will see more of Good For Eats in our culinary scenes and be sure to book your seat for any of their offer for excitements!
F O O DI E L I S T S
GOOD FOR EATS (G48) | Facebook: goodforeats | Twitter and Instagram: @goodforeats | E: goodforeats@gmail.com
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F O O DI E L I S T S
02
ESPRESSO ITALIANO by ADITHYA PRATAMA
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Celebrating the long history of Italian espresso culture, Pacific Place exhibited the month-long Buongiorno Italia.
F O O DI E L I S T S
T
ogether with the Embassy of Italy to Indonesia, Italian Trade Agency and Bank BRI, Pacific Place opened Buongiorno Italia! –A series of events of Italian lifestyle that showcased works of different industries including fashion, coffee, automotive and interior design from 8 October until 2 November 2014 throughout Pacific Place. The events were conducted in the celebratory spirit of the 65th anniversary of bilateral relations between Italy and Indonesia. The Ambassador of Italy to Indonesia; H.E. Federico Failla, aimed to introduce the highly-admired Italian brands
that have become source of inspiration and reference to fellow industry players in many countries including Indonesia. “We aim to strengthen the love of consumers and the public in Jakarta, and in Indonesia in general, for creations and cultural products that come from Italy” quoted H.E. Federico Failla during the opening of the exhibition. As a part of the affair, Espresso Italiano Exhibition displayed Italian pride throughout history with espresso machines. The display showcased not only modern Italian espresso machines, but also the vintage coffee makers from Alessi that was produced
in 1979 to one of the earliest automatic espresso machine manufactured by Victoria Arduino –a machinery company that was founded in 1905. The exhibition also showcased the typical Italian coffee servers and series of photographs titled “Filmcaffe’” with images of Italian actors and actresses throughout the cinema Italiano that briefly summed up the popularity of espresso culture within Italy. Together with Italian cooking classes, other lifestyle exhibitions and special coffee and food promotions throughout the mall, Buongiorno Italia! kept us up and awake and constantly chanting “Mamma Mia!”
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F O O DI E L I S T S
03
Ramen Delights by JED DOBLE photographs by RICHMOND BLANDO
I
PPUDO was founded in 1985 in the Japanese city of Hakata (Fukuoka City), also known as the country’s ramen capital by Shigemi Kawahara. There are now over 80 stores in Japan, and over 40 international stores in places such as New York, Sydney, Hong Kong, Singapore, Taipei, Seoul, Shanghai, Kuala Lumpur, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Beijing, Chengdu, Bangkok and Manila. Kawahara was crowned the Ramen King in 2005, and holds a place in the Ramen Hall of Fame after winning the championship three consecutive years in a row, on a reputable TV show ramen competition. IPPUDO has gained a worldwide following with customers patiently queuing for a taste of what many have dubbed: ‘cosmos in a bowl’ - a signature rich and flavorful pork-based tonkotsu broth combined with delicate home-made noodles made from a secret recipe. Kawahara said, “I am excited to introduce IPPUDO to Indonesia, a country full of cultural diversity and wonderful cuisine. I hope you will be able to share the IPPUDO ramen experience with your family and friends. After all, it is more than just a bowl of noodles. Through ramen, we communicate our Japanese culture and traditions in many ways that will continue forever the warm friendship Japan and Indonesia shares.” The elegant yet cozy restaurant, has been drawing crowds since it opened at the luxurious Pacific Place Mall in the Sudirman Central Business District. IPPUDO ensures that quality is consistent across their outlets worldwide. Here in Indonesia, they will use fresh local products, their secret soup recipe, authentic
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IPPUDO, the internationally-acclaimed Japanese eatery famous for its ramen has just opened in Jakarta to long queues at the fifth floor of Pacific Place Mall.
Japanese cooking methods and ramen production. At IPPUDO, there are three types of ramen: the classic Hakata-style Shiromaru Motoaji, with IPPUDO’s original tonkotsu broth with ultra-thin noodles, pork loin, bean sprouts, kikurage mushroom and spring onions. Akamaru Shinaji, which is IPPUDO’s original tonkotsu broth enhanced with a special blended miso paste and garlic oil which tastes richer than Shiromaru. And the spicy special, Karaka-Men, IPPUDO’s original tonkotsu broth with special spicy miso, cashew nuts and ground pork. You can further customize your ramen by choosing the size and hardness of the noodles. You can have soft, normal, hard and very hard noodles. As a fan of tonkotsu ramen, I was thrilled to be able to sample IPPUDO’s ramen. I chose the Karaka-Men, because I like the rich broth with some spice. As the broth touched my lips, I was thrilled by it’s richness and complexity, this will only be accomplished from hours worth of preparation and boiling. I chose the normal noodle hardness so that was expected, perfectly al dente. The hero of the dish, of course, was the pork loin, which was tender and succulent. Truly heaven in a bowl. So for those of you out there who are looking for a ramen fix, head down to Pacific Place Mall and sample IPPUDO, you will definitely not be disappointed. Don’t forget to also try their other delights such as Hakata Gyoza (classic IPPUDO’s original pan-fried dumplings) as well as their Pork Bun (steamed bun with juicy braised pork belly and IPPUDO original sauce) that will surely leave you wanting more.
F O O DI E L I S T S
IPPUDO | Pacific Place Mall, Level 5, Jl. Jenderal Sudirman, SCBD, Jakarta | T: +62 21 5797 3339 Facebook: ippudoindonesia | Twitter: @ippudoIDN
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F O O DI E L I S T S
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ST ALI COFFEE ROASTERS | 12-18 Yarra Pl, South Melbourne VIC 3205 | T: +61 3 9686 2990 www.stali.com.au | Instagram: @st _ ali
F O O DI E L I S T S
04
With Jakartans eagerly slurping up coffee culture, it is not a surprise that barista’s from one of the world’s coffee capitals have visited to share a cup or two.
Melbourne’s Coffee Kings by JED DOBLE photographs by HIMAWAN SUTANTO
F
our of Melbourne’s leading baristas from coffee institution, St. Ali, descended and conquered Jakarta recently. Visiting were Matt Perger, St. Ali’s multi-award-winning Director of Coffee and he was accompanied by Lachlan Ward – First Place Australian Brewer’s Champion 2013, Ben Morrow – Australia’s Latte Art Cowboy and Jamie Thomson – St. Ali’s Head Barista, Second Place Australian Brewer’s Cup 2013. They were also joined by St. Ali owner Salvatore Malatesta. The four kings of coffee took over popular coffee spot Common Grounds in the heart of Jakarta, and conducted various coffee classes and met hundreds of adoring coffee fans. This is part of an international tour schedule which aims to spread their knowledge, expertise and passion for coffee and their home town of Melbourne around the world. We sat down and spoke to Matt Perger and picked his brain about coffee and the Jakarta coffee scene. He tells us that his life with coffee started in high school. He was then working at a café on the weekends. He noticed that the coffee was so bad and hated it. He wondered how people could like it, so he thought there must be some better coffee out there, to make people like it. He started to look for better coffees, he did research and went to classes and started to enjoy coffee. But also enjoyed the hunt. “I have a very scientific and analytical mind. So I’m always trying to make it a little bit better. That hunt for better coffee is not my fulltime job, which is great.” Matt shares with us. He further tells us that he has an excellent palate which helps him with
his work with coffee. “I like to think that I have a good palate, several times when I want to communicate to other people what something tastes like, they agree. I have not made any big mistakes.” Matt thinks that the Jakarta café scene is thriving. “It is really strong, its at a crucial stage wherein it is still a small industry that is reaching out to a wider community.” St. Ali owner Salvatore Malatesta shares about their home city, Melbourne: “Melbourne is definitely one of the strongest café culture’s in the world. Not only for the quality of the roasting, brewing and methods and baristas, but for the café scene continues to flourish with more quirky venues to feed the city’s coffee obsession.’ ‘Our international tour helps people understand what it is that Melbourne is doing differently that makes our city so special.’ During the one-week takeover, coffee connoisseurs attended exclusive Masterclasses with the St Ali team. Participants were able to can expand their knowledge with an espresso workshop or latte art class or attend a coffee science lecture. Common Grounds served as the host of the visit. The café is a coffee roastery dedicated to delivering the best coffee and brunch experience, serving all-day breakfast choices alongside specially brewed cups of coffee. The coffee and café industry is flourishing in Jakarta. We expect more such initiatives like this visit to happen in the coming weeks as Jakartans get to know their coffee more.
COMMON GROUNDS | Citywalk Sudirman, Lantai Ground, Jalan KH Mas Mansyur, Jakarta | T: +62 21 25558963 Instagram: @commongroundsjkt
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B I N TA N G >< T H E F O O D I E
05
DIE STUBE by KYLE GREGORIO photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
Once one of Jakarta’s best-kept secrets, Die Stube has become one of the city’s most recognized and best-loved establishments.
S
ince its launch in 2004, Die Stube has always been a welcoming hideaway where regulars and newcomers alike would come and enjoy authentic German cuisine and linger over cold beer. Since then, it has become a full-service venue catering to everyone. Die Stube attracts a diverse following— including expats, sports fans, foodies and bar-hoppers—that knows where to go for great food, drinks and atmosphere. And thanks to a new, smoke-free, family-friendly dining area, Die Stube is not just a favored nighttime haunt but also a preferred daytime option too. From its humble ‘pub & grub’ beginnings, to its now extensive offerings and expansive venue, Die Stube has grown significantly. In the expert hands of executive chef, Ralf Schmidt, the restaurant’s menu has become the talk of the town featuring mouthwatering German specialties such as Whole Roasted Pig Knuckle as well as an assortment of homemade German sausages. The cozy yet lively bar area still draws in guests for its pub ambience. Those who like sports will undoubtedly enjoy the facilities the stube has to offer. Die Stube boasts 7 flat-screen TVs in addition to its 3 large screen projectors, from which key sporting events are shown. Top programs come to you not only from local Indovision channels but also Malaysia’s Astro as well as Germany’s Sky Vision. Bundesliga fans gather week in and week out at Die Stube’s special soccer room to watch their teams live on the big screen. All of this culminates in the capital’s coziest and friendliest Oktoberfest, held annually at Die Stube in October. So come and join them and see what everyone’s talking about! Due to the immense popularity and demand for Die Stube’s menu items, Imbiss Stube was created to cater to the busy breakfast and lunch crowds of South Jakarta at Cilandak Town Square (Citos) Mall.
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Any beer will be a good pair with oily and flavorful pork dish. The carbonations in the beer will ‘scrub’ clean your palate.
Pilsener is a good choice for its ‘crisp and clean’ tasting note. For dishes with richer flavors, it might be a good idea to have a simpler beer.
DIE STUBE | Plaza Bisnis Kemang 1 Jalan Kemang Raya no. 2, Jakarta | T: +62 21 7179 3486 www.diestube.co.id | Facebook: DieStube Jakarta | Twitter: @diestubejkt
B I N TA N G >< T H E F O O D I E
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SPANKY’S by KYLE GREGORIO photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
A
fter trying Spanky’s for myself, it’s safe to say that they are, in fact, the best ribs in town. Spanky’s concept is American BBQ, which was inspired by the 20’s to 40’s children’s TV series “Our Gang” and the “Little Rascals.” Their BBQ menu offers juicy imported steaks, oven roasted chicken, hearty sandwiches, tasty burgers, slow cooked pulled pork and beef briskets, along with garden fresh salads, tasty appetizers and oven baked pies. Spanky’s goal is to offer value for money, so their guests leave full
PORK RIBS - cut through its fattiness with a crisp and clean beer with carbonations that will clean your palate and prepare you for the next bite.
Spanky’s in Kemang is a bar and restaurant concept which features finger lickin’ good ribs. and satisfied. Spanky’s interior is full of fun photos, quotes, artworks and the stars from the bygone era. Remember Spanky and Darla, and Pete the Dog? How about Alfalfa and Buckwheat with their unique haircuts? The interior is white and cheerful, with accents of red and gray with a casual dining feel. At Spanky’s their dining concept is warm and friendly. Spanky’s welcomes families, couples and friends out for lunch and dinner, steak and rib lovers as well as the trend setting younger crowd. Spanky’s caters for private parties
and functions with their vacuum packed Ribs with all the fixings, along with their homemade pies. They will soon deliver their finger lickin’ good ribs or guests may take-away and reheat at home. The service here is top-notch, and the staff is friendly. What’s even better is their range of vegetarian options that is quite rare in Jakarta‘s restaurants, which usually lack vegetarian dishes. I can say that Spanky’s is one of the few places that genuinely set the standard for Kemang restaurants. This place is highly recommended.
ENCHILADAS - a lager or pilsener that will keep YOU REFRESHED.
PORK SCHNITZEL - enjoy this German classic with a German classic style, Pilsener. Matching the origin of the beer style with the origin of the food is a safe way of making sure you will have a great pairing.
SPANKY’S | Jalan Raya Kemang 24A, Jakarta | T: +62 21 718 2876 www.spankysribs.com | Facebook: SpankysRibs | Twitter: @SpankysRibs
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F O O DI E L I S T S
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F O O DI E L I S T S
07
Prego: Fun Italian by JED DOBLE
Being a traditional holiday destination, Bali is starting to have more venues which are family oriented. Prego is one of these, and is reaping success.
F
amily holidays are always a stressful time for parents. Organizing one can be a nightmare. But meal time should be fun and exciting, and Prego is a perfect place for the family. Regarded as a popular Italian restaurant in Bali, this lively eatery is the ideal venue to bring the entire family for a delicious and authentic Italian meal. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s colorful dĂŠcor and aroma of cooking food from its open-concept kitchens entices the senses. From freshly baked breads and pizzas to home-made pasta dishes topped with classic sauces, the entire menu is filled with tempting options for those in search of a family restaurant in Bali. Whatever you are searching for, from a gourmet coffee and dessert or a late night glass of wine, everyone is welcome at Prego. Prego Sunday Family Brunch Sunday is the happiest day of the week! With its feel-good design and welcoming ambience, Prego puts the fun back into Italian dining. Appetites are satisfied with a delicious menu of authentic cuisine prepared by a friendly team in an openconcept kitchen. House specialties include classic pasta dishes, homemade pizzas and
refreshing gelatos. Prego Family Brunch every Sunday promises a great day out for everyone with lively activities, entertaining gimmicks and an extensive buffet of Italian fare. An outdoor play area provides ample space for supervised games to keep young ones occupied for hours. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to say hello to Pippo the Squirrel, as Prego mascot during the brunch and to take photos on his one-time appearance. IDR 395,000 net per person including a signature aperitivo, illy Coffees & Jing Teas IDR 150,000 net per kid between 4-12 years old including free flow soft drinks 15% off for food only and non-alcoholic beverage for SPG members and Prego cardholders. Prego Family Brunch is available every Sunday from 11.30 am to 3 pm For reservation call to 0361 771 906 or dining.bali@westin.com Italian Aperitivo Available daily from 5 pm until 7 pm. Another exciting promo at Prego where you can enjoy complimentary bites, 25% off selected wines and cocktails as well as 50% off beers, soft drinks and juices.
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F O O DI E L I S T S
08
World Gourmet Forum
Introducing their talented International Culinary Panel, Singapore Airlines hosted World Gourmet Forum recently.
by JED DOBLE
I
nternational Culinary Panel of Singapore Airlines was established in 1998 to tailor unique menus for the airline’s First and Business class passenger. The panel comprised awardwinning chefs from all over the world each with their very own specialty and unique touch to add to the dishes served on board. Recently, Singapore Airlines invited The Foodie Magazine to the World Gourmet
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Forum where displays of grandeur services the airline offers In their First and Business class including Singapore Airlines’ Book the Cook Service that provides passenger with vast range of dishes from Western favorites, healthier choices, popular Asian dishes to the iconic local fare from Singapore to indulge on board. The event showcased cooking demo by Singapore Airlines’ International Culinary Panel chefs including Australian Chef
Matt Moran, Chef and TV host Sanjeev Kapoor from India, native Californian Chef Suzanne Goin and winner of Excellent Chef at the 15th China Chef Festival; Chef Zhu Jun. With all the exquisite taste served throughout the event, together with finest wine selected by Jeannie Cho –member of Singapore Airlines’ Wine Panel, we got the first hand experience of the Singapore Airlines’ flawless food & beverage service during World Gourmet Forum.
F O O DI E L I S T S
Singapore Airlinesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; International Culinary Panel (left to right)
MATT MORAN
GEORGES BLANC
ALFRED PORTALE
SANJEEV KAPOOR
YOSHIHIRO MURATA
SAM LEONG
CARLO CRACCO
SUZANNE GOIN
Head Chef of ARIA Restaurant, Sydney, Australia Celebrity Master Chef and Cookbook Author, India Two Michelin Star Chef of Ristorante Cracco, Milan, Italy
Three Michelin Star Chef of Restaurant George Blanc, Vonnas, France Three Michelin Star Chef of Kikunoi, Kyoto, Japan Chef of The Hungry Cat, Los Angeles, USA
Executive Chef Gotham Bar & Grill, New York City, USA Chef & Co-owner of Forest, Singapore
ZHU JUN
Executive Chef, Shanghai King Mang Jade Garden Catering, Shanghai, China
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
Stoked by JED DOBLE photographs by KIERAN SCOTT
Al Brown is probably one of New Zealand’s most widely known chefs. His approach to cooking is all about simplicity and generosity. His dishes deliver uncomplicated excellence and showcase the culinary landscape of New Zealand.
D
uring my trip to Auckland, I had the pleasure of meeting Al Brown at his award-winning restaurant, Depot. Over chilled rosé and some of his signature dishes, we chatted about his cooking philosophy, barbecue and pork. His restaurant, Depot, opened in Auckland in 2011 and has been an unprecedented success, winning the 2012 Metro/Audi Supreme Restaurant of the Year. More recently, he has opened Federal Delicatessen, his take on an old-school NYC Jewish Delicatessen. Al is also the mind behind Auckland’s newest bagel factories, Best Ugly Bagels, which make Montreal-style wood-fired bagels in purpose built 13 tonne ovens, from two central Auckland locations. Al’s first cook book, Go Fish: Recipes and Stories from the New Zealand Coast, won both People’s Choice and Best Illustrated Book at the 2010 New Zealand Post Book Awards, and Best Single Subject at the International Association of Culinary Professionals Awards in the USA. Al’s next book, Stoked: Cooking with Fire, the follow up to Go Fish, focuses on BBQ, meat cookery and his love of cooking over wood fires. “I started barbecuing helping Dad as a young kid of 8 or 9 years old, I guess. I was cutting kindling with a tomahawk at a pretty young age also.” Al tells me that they had many varieties of native firewood on their farm, that had been felled when the land
www.albrown.co.nz | Instagram & Twitter: @albrownchef
was cleared for agriculture. He loved looking at the different grains in the wood and soon became fascinated by the individual smells or perfume that the different wood gave off as it burned. He continues to tell me: “The big thing I understood from an early age, was for a successful cooking session using solid fuel, it’s all about patience and creating a decent thick bed of embers. If you lose the heat, you lose the battle!” I think that was well said, coming from me, who enjoys eating at barbecues! In his book, Stoked, Al writes about his ‘Pig In A Pipe’ weekend was one of the most memorable cooking and eating weekends of his life. During this weekend, he saw how they shot and slaughtered the pig and was part of following it through from preparation to cooking, then eating. “The final few bones on the plate after a wonderful feast was extraordinary. The hospitality from the Chinese that invited me in to learn this delicious tradition was second to none.” We start to talk about New Zealand and the traditional pork dishes. Al says that often Maori will cook a whole pig in a hangi method of cooking. A Hangi is where the food is cooked under ground. A big pit is dug depending on how large the celebration is and the amount of people to feed. Dry native hard wood is piled high in the pit, like a large bonfire. Large volcanic rocks are placed in and on the fire while
it burns down. After a time these rocks become white hot. They line the bottom of the pit, then the food is wrapped in various vegetation, like wild watercress, that helps create steam and keep the food moist. The pig and other meats will be placed closest to the heat source, followed by vegetables like carrots, sweet potatoes and whole cabbages. The food is then wrapped in more vegetation then covered in soil that was dug to create the pit. The hangi then cooks for three to four hours depending on how large it is. “Once the food is cooked and lifted up, what follows is a traditional celebration meal, that has a unique and delicious taste, unlike anything you will have eaten before.” Sounds really exciting, I hope to be invited to a hangi in the future. Of course I have to ask, what are his favorite pork dishes, and his quick reply was: “Anything from our beloved pig gets the tick from me. “ On the heels of the the success of Depot, Federal Deli and Best Ugly Bagels, Al tells us that they have just opened the second Best Ugly in Newmarket Auckland. And an expansion to Australia for another site is in the works, as we speak. As a special treat for The Foodie readers, we are giving away a copy of Al Brown’s Stoked cookbook on a social media contest this month. Check out our Facebook, Instagram and Twitter accounts for details on how to join the contest.
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
PORCHETTA WITH GRILLED CARROT & FENNEL SEED SALAD BY AL BROWN
REPRINTED FROM STOKED PUBLISHED BY RANDOM HOUSE NEW ZEALAND Serves: 6
INGREDIENTS: Porchetta 2 kg 2 tsp
Pork belly Finely chopped fresh garlic 1 tbs Fennel seeds, toasted in a dry pan and ground 1 tbs Dried oregano (wild Sicilian if possible) 1/4 cup Roughly chopped fresh sage leaves 1 pc Lemon grated zest 1 cup Apple juice 1 cup Chicken stock 2 pcs Bay leaves Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper cooking oil for searing Grilled Carrot and Fennel Seed Salad 1 kg Carrots, peeled and cut into quarters lengthwise 1/4 cup Extra virgin olive oil 1/2 cup Torn mint leaves 1/2 cup Torn parsley leaves 1/4 cup Lemon juice 1/4 cup Al Brown & Co. Lemon and Fennel Infused Olive Oil (or use extra virgin olive oil) 2 tbs Fennel seeds, toasted in a dry pan and coursely ground Pinch of sugar Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
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STEPS
{ 0\\XV[T \VY S\_ O_b`UV[T { @RN `NYa N[Q S_R`UYf T_\b[Q OYNPX ]R]]R_ { :f SV_`a aN`aR \S ]\_PURaaN `\YQ \[ aUR roadside in Italy is one of those food memories etched securely in my personal â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;hall of fameâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lifetime culinary experiences. The Italians are masters of the art of boning out a whole pig and roasting it rotisserie-style. The pig is flavoured traditionally with fresh and dried herbs, garlic and fennel seeds. I thought a whole pig was a little over the top so Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll show you how we make it in the restaurant using pork belly. Porchetta { =_RURNa aUR \cR[ a\ " °C. { @RR ]NTR ! S\_ U\d a\ ]_R]N_R aUR porchetta. { =YNPR N YN_TR S_fV[T ]N[ \[ UVTU URNa Season the porchetta with sea salt and fresh black pepper. Add a little oil to the pan then sear the rolled porchetta until golden all over. { ?RZ\cR S_\Z aUR ]N[ N[Q ]YNPR V[ N roasting dish in which it fits snugly. Pour the apple juice over the top and add the chicken stock and bay leaves. { 0\cR_ aUR QV`U dVaU aV[S\VY N[Q ]YNPR on high heat for a few minutes to get it going before placing in the oven for 2
hours. The porchetta is ready when it is soft and tender right through the meat. Remove from the oven and let it cool in the cooking liquid before refrigerating until required. Grilled Carrot and Fennel Seed Salad { 5RNa f\b_ PUN_T_VYY \_ SYNa a\] a\ N` U\a N` it can get. { =YNPR aUR PN__\a` V[ N O\dY N[Q a\`` V[ the extra virgin olive oil to coat. Season with sea salt and black pepper. Place the carrots in a frying pan on the heat and leave for 5 minutes or so before turning to get some char action. Once caramelised all over, remove and cool before returning to the bowl. The carrots should be wilted but still have a bit of crunch in the centre. { .QQ aUR _RZNV[V[T V[T_RQVR[a` a\ aUR carrots, toss to combine, then check the seasoning. Reserve. To Cook and Serve { ?RZ\cR aUR `a_V[T S_\Z aUR ]\_PURaaN N[Q cut into steak-sized rounds. { =_RURNa f\b_ PUN_T_VYY \_ SYNa a\] a\ medium hot. Lightly brush the porchetta slices with oil and season with a little salt and pepper. Place on the heat and cook until golden on each side with a little char and warm all the way through. { @R_cR VZZRQVNaRYf dVaU `\ZR \S aUR PN__\a and fennel seed salad on the side. { 2Na [\d
C O V E R F E AT U R E
HOW TO MAKE
Porchetta
1. 2. 3.
Using a sharp knife, remove the skin of the pork belly. Trim away any really thick pieces of fat. Open the belly up by cutting through the middle.
1.
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4.
Cut to the far edge, but not right through, to double the width. 5â&#x20AC;&#x201C;9. Spread evenly with garlic, fennel seeds, herbs, zest and seasoning.
2.
10. Roll up the belly tightly. 11. Tie up with butcherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s twine or natural string. 12. You now have a prepared porchetta.
3.
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4.
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Win a copy of Al Brown’s STOKED Cookbook! Share Your Own Pork Recipe and Win!
1. Share your own pork recipe creation. 2. Take a photo of your dish and upload it to The Foodie Magazine’s Facebook fan page or Instagram Account @thefoodiemag. 3. Don’t forget to tag it with #iamStoked 4. Deadline to submit your entries is on Saturday, 15th November 2014. 5. Winner will be announced in the December issue of The Foodie Magazine.
S I N G A P O R E A I R L I N E S >< T H E F O O D I E
S
ingapore Airlines customers travelling to and from Auckland in New Zealand are now able to enjoy the luxury and comfort of the world’s largest aircraft, the Airbus A380. The 471-seat A380 is now deployed daily on flight SQ285, departing Singapore at 2050hrs and arriving in Auckland at 1145hrs the following day. The return flight SQ286 departs Auckland at 1330hrs, arriving in Singapore at 1900hrs. Travelers can also enjoy the new Business Class seat, which blends modern sophistication with functionality, to address business travellers’ requirements for more flexibility, comfort and privacy. Set in a warm and inviting cabin, the seat offers greater recline at 132 degrees and features an improved ergonomic seat cushion. When converted, it becomes the industry’s widest full-flat bed, at 78 inches in length. The seat also features a padded headboard cushion for enhanced comfort. In addition, the new Business Class seats boast two new seating positions – ‘Lazy Z’ and ‘Sundeck’ – following in-depth research and feedback from customers to choose their preferred ways to work or relax.
Fly to Auckland in Style Also taking into consideration feedback from customers, there is increased stowage space, this is now an amenity stowage area on the side console and a laptop stowage area. Other enhanced features include an 18-inch LCD screen and video touch-screen handset for customers to enjoy the next generation KrisWorld, as well as an all-in-one business panel including in-seat power supply, USB port, eXport and HDMI ports. Like the new First Class seat, the new Business Class seat boasts a floodlight reading light and the LCD monitor on/off switch for added convenience. Another perk of flying Singapore Airlines Business Class is that now, they serve Taittinger Champagne. Produced by one of the few remaining family-owned champagne houses, Prelude “Grands Crus” is made with the first pressings of an equal portion of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, selected from Grand Cru vineyards. “We’re pleased to be offering Taittinger Prelude “Grands Crus” to our Business Class customers. Prelude “Grands Crus” is made solely from the best Grand Cru vineyards in the Taittinger family’s own estate and is then aged for more than five years in
www.singaporeair.com | Twitter and Instagram: @singaporeair | Facebook: Singapore Airlines
their cellars. For elegance in the glass and exclusivity in the air, this is something really special,” said Singapore Airlines Wine Panel member Oz Clarke. Clarke is the newest member of the Singapore Airlines Wine Panel that selected this champagne. The panel also includes Michael Hill-Smith, the first Australian to pass the challenging Master of Wine examinations, and Jeannie Cho Lee, the first Asian to be awarded the Master of Wine title. “Our new Business Class offering is testament to the lengths we go to for our customers to enjoy champagne from one of the best vineyards in the world. This outstanding champagne is a joyous blend of finesse and complexity, which will certainly delight the most discerning palates,” said Senior Vice President Product & Services, Mr. Tan Pee Teck. Around 194,000 bottles of champagne are consumed on Singapore Airlines flights annually. Currently, Singapore Airlines is the only airline that serves the rare and highly coveted Grand Cru Red Burgundy and two prestige cuvées, Dom Perignon and Krug Grand Cuvée, in tandem.
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
PORK BELLY
PORK CHEEK PATTY PORK ROULADE
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
PORK BELLY AND BLACK PUDDING TERRINE
PORK SAUSAGE
BLACK PUDDING
REINVENTING THE SWINE by ADITHYA PRATAMA photographs by AKI
We visited a fresh addition to the crowded Seminyak district, Merah Putih and discovered mind-blowing pork dishes from their kitchen. www.thefoodiemag.com | 41
C O V E R F E AT U R E
M
erah Putih’s kitchen is orchestrated by its talented executive chef Kieran Morland and his Indonesian counterpart Chef Wayan Mustika. The Melbourne native chef has been all over the world working
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for some of the best restaurants including New York’s Momofuku where he developed his love for pork, nose to tail. “I learned a lot from David Chang when it comes to maximizing the pig,” explained Chef Kieran, “many of the pork
dishes I create are shaped from my days at Momofuku – especially the flavors.” He recalled Momofuku’s Pig Head Torchon in which the swine’s head is braised overnight, rolled into torchon, crumbed and deep-fried then served with pickled cranberries and beans. It is the subtleness of the bean and the sourness of the pickle that balances out the fattiness of the pork. That concept is what Chef Kieran applied to his plate of pork cheek patty and pork belly that is served with pickled radishes and sambal matah –the spiciness and acidity complement the pork. As an Indonesian restaurant, Chef Kieran felt the need to balance the menu at Merah Putih to cater to patrons of the restaurant. He designed other pork dishes such as the pork belly with black pudding, coconut and shallots that is served like a roulade and the quirky combination of suckling pig – Balinese style, served with grilled octopus, sweet corn and cassava that instantly became our favorite for having the great flavor balance and complexity. Definitely worth every single calorie. Just like his favorite restaurant in London, St. John, Chef Kieran has pretty much used every single part of the pig in his dishes. From the nose to the liver, to the belly and its tongue have been making major appearance on his plates. “But I have yet to use the pig’s brain!” added Chef Kieran The understanding of vast Balinese cuisine can be seen in a dish that Chef Kieran prepared specifically for The Foodie Magazine. A pork tum – Balinese steamed pork wrapped in banana leaves, served with king prawn and sambal matah. The dish highlights not only the richness of the meat but also the freshness of the prawn that works well with the sambal of chili, shallots and a hint of garlic. We bid farewell to Chef Kieran as he went back to the kitchen for Merah Putih’s dinner service by wondering how does one work in such an intricate way? From processing parts of the pig, preparing and season accordingly prior to cooking and crafting a beautiful composition that pleases both the eyes and the taste buds. It is visible that every single plate was well thought of and composed very diligently by Chef Kieran be it during his years of working for great restaurants or, perhaps, when rumbling on the field playing footie with his Australian football team in Bali.
C O V E R F E AT U R E
Pork belly, Black pudding, Coconut, Shallots
Pork cheek, Pork belly, Pickled radishes
Suckling pig, Octopus, Sweet corn, Cassava
Pork tum, King prawn, Sambal matah
MERAH PUTIH RESTAURANT | Jalan Petitenget no. 100x, Kerobokan, Bali | +62 361 846 5950 www.merahputihbali.com | Twitter: @merahputihbali
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
WANDERING FOR PORK by ADITHYA PRATAMA photographs by HIMAWAN SUTANTO
Bustling through the busy streets of Jakartaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chinatown, The Foodie Magazine joined Lidia Tanod to discover her favorite pork treats.
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
M
eet Lidia Tanod, a Manadonese lady with a strong passion for food –especially Indonesian street food. After joining the food community Jalansutra, Lidia had written “Kuliner” a food guide series published in 2007 and assisted Bondan Winarno in writing “100 Maknyus Bondan Winarno”. Nowadays, she can regularly be seen in Pacific Place’s Urban Kitchen managing the newly opened Warung 100 Hari and Kedai Tjem-Tjeman –her new venture to bring Indonesian street food into a more presentable space. Every 100 days, the vendors at Warung 100 Hari will change. As the inaugural period, Lidia hosted Soto Mie Saroja, Empal Gentong Cirebon and Gudeg Hu-Hah with a signature spicy Sambal Krecek. Currently, the venue is hosting Soto & Nasi Kuning Banjar, Nasi Ulam Betawi, Ayam Tangkap, Soto Tangkar and Lontong Sayur Medan. Lidia and her partners strive to introduce more Indonesian traditional cuisines into the guests of Urban Kitchen with different variations throughout each of the period.
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Growing up in Manadonese-Chinese family, Lidia is a true fan of any pork dishes. From Tino Ransak –Manadonese braised pork cooked inside hollowed bamboo, to the ever so comforting Bruinebonne Soup of red bean and pork legs. “There are so many good pork dishes that are often known only to those who live nearby Kota. That’s why I insist on taking you guys there!” explained Lidia when we met her at our first stop: Sate Babi Krekot. Located at the end of Jalan Pecenongan –the street famed for hosting the oh-sopopular Martabak Toblerone, the place opens from 5pm every day selling Sate Babi -pork satays, of different variations: meat, skin, liver and intestines, and hearty bowls of Bakut Sayur Asin, a soup with preserved vegetables and fatty pork ribs. Lidia ordered different varieties of satays for us to try alongside a bowl of the soup to accompany the meal. The satays were grilled to order and soaked with Kecap Manis Cap 7 –a specific brand of sweet soy sauce that the place used to season their pork, prior to grilling.
The soy sauce’s nutty taste became the main flavor note to go along with the pork’s fattiness that is served with slices of cucumber, fried grated galangal with pickled chili and shallots to cuts through the richness. “Try the soup!” offered Lidia as she pushed a bowl of Bakut to us, “it has a distinct tang that stops the soy sauce from overwhelming your palate” Pork is a variation that the Chinese immigrants did to Indonesian style satay and gave a brand new flavor through a different protein. Even in China, only goat meat is usually made into skewers in Xin Jiang but never pork. So it is safe to say that this kind of pork dish is native to Chinese Indonesian, explained Lidia more. Where as the Zha Cai or salted preserved vegetable is a popular condiment in Chinese cuisine that originate in Sichuan that is often served with or without chili paste. The pickle crafted a soup with a subtle sourness that highlights the pork’s savory taste and act as a complementing dish for the different pork satays.
KEDAI SATE BABI KREKOT | Jalan Raya Pecenongan, Jakarta (opposite Alila Hotel Pecenongan)
C O V E R F E AT U R E For our next stop, Lidia led us along Jalan Hayam Wuruk into a small street known as Jalan Kemurnian where we were greeted with several noodle stalls on our way in. “There are a couple of noodle places here along Jalan Kemurnian that opens for late night supper, they are very popular among party goers from the nearby clubs” giggled Lidia as we walked into one place with stacks of dumplings, meatballs and noodles in front; “but this is the one that I like the most. Also known as Bakmi Doyok in the 70s when it first opened, Bakmi Gang Mangga is popular among noodle lovers in Jakarta for its homemade noodles and tasty seasoning. Though located in a single car road, there are plenty of seats inside this humble eatery with a lovely service to begin with. Lidia ordered a serving of their noodle with slices of Chinese roasted pork and pork belly alongside fried noodles cooked with chives, beansprouts and generous helping of lap chiong –a Taiwanese style pork sausage, a couple of Siomay and Bakso Goreng to nibble along. “Let’s try this one!” she pointed on a dish on the menu; “Babi Pete Kecap! It’s a pork meat that is cooked with stinky beans and sweet soy sauce, I’ve never seen this menu here before, shall we?” We can’t help but to agree. The dishes were then served. We can’t help but notice a very fragrant sweet aroma from the Siomay that was completed with a crunch from bits of jicama inside the pork meat batter, where as the Bakso Goreng was very tasty served with a sweet and spicy dipping sauce alongside. Noodle was served to the bite and prepared with a lot of lard; we sprinkle some pork crackles on top to add an extra crunch to the noodle. “You can tell how good a Chinese restaurant through the wok skill of the cook, from seasoning the wok when they first used it to how they control the heat and producing a dish with a distinct smokiness” explained Lidia, “traditionally when a Chinese cook leaves a restaurant, they will bring the wok along with them” True enough, our last two dishes were prepared by the lady owner herself on a wok. The fried noodles possesses the distinct smokiness from the wok that complements the sweet savory taste of the pork sausages and seasoning of sweet soy sauce, lard and lots of garlic. And surprisingly enough, Babi Pete Kecap became our favorite dish amongst the others. Tender slices of pork meat, with a mildly sweet dark sauce, goes perfectly well with the stinky beans that have a slight bitterness on its nutty texture. Bakmi Gang Mangga pretty much sells comfort food that many Chinese Indonesians are familiar with. We were pretty stuffed by the end of it all, but not Lidia. BAKMI GANG MANGGA | Jalan Kemurnian IV no. 38B, Gang Mangga, Glodok, Jakarta | +62 21 631 3237
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C O V E R F E AT U R E
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C O V E R F E AT U R E “Come on! We still have one more stop!” she exclaimed when we get into the next stop; “I used to do up to 12 places in a day when I contributed for Indonesia’s Makansutra guide. We had so many stops to keep up with the book deadline, it was hard but we enjoyed it” The final stop is Mangga Besar area; a street famed for its array of congee places and where the Hokkien community first resided in Jakarta and sold authentic Medan Chinese cooking here. From Kwetiaw Akang to Bakso Akiaw, many Jakartan’s favorite treats can be found along this stretch of road, including the notorious Medanese durian sent directly from Sumatera. But Lidia told us to park just next to an eatery with a bright red signboard written “Super Suikiaw”. The eatery was swarmed with many Japanese when we got there; plates of dumplings were served on the table alongside bottles of beers. Lidia ordered a couple of dumplings called Suikiaw; steamed and pan-fried, and the Shanghai-style soup dumpling, Xiaolong Bao. “As a snack!” she smiled after finished ordering; “After this, we’ll cross the road to have some desserts!”
The Suikiaw came with steaming hot filling of minced pork meat and chive. The skins were a little thick with nice crust on the pan-fried ones and companied by a dipping sauce with notes of vinegar, rice wine and lots of garlic. The Xiaolong Bao came a bit later fresh out of the steamer, Lidia taught us to enjoy it properly by biting into the skin and sipped the savory broth inside. It was rich, savory and very delicious broth that came out from the pork filling with mild ginger hint within. It was a quick and satisfying stop at Super Suikiaw for us. As we crossed the street of Jalan Mangga Besar, we noticed the big acculturation in the food vendors along the street. From the timeless Nasi Campur with roasted pork hanging on the display to the Lontong Sayur Medan with plethora of side dishes to choose from. They were all such a sight to the eyes but unfortunately we can’t handle big meals anymore that night, so Lidia took us to a colorful display of cakes and small bites of Kue Medan Tip-Top. We were spoiled by choices of sweets and savory cakes that the shop sold. The fragrant Bika made from fermented cassava, classic Kue Lapis of bright colored layers
SUPER SUIKIAW | Jalan Mangga Besar Raya 3B, Jakarta | +62 0815 7464 8999
and Kue Lumpur to Talam Srikaya with sticky rice and pandan custard and Talam Ebi with savory dried shrimp as topping. “Of course these kue wasn’t made out of pork, but I can never resist from stopping by here after having big meals –I have a serious sweet tooth!” joked Lidia as she chose the bites to savor on. “This is what I love about Jakarta’s Chinatown; you will always find new things to see, new things to savor and new things to enjoy. The options are endless and can be completely different if you came in the morning. I am sure that there are plenty of other places that might taste even better than what we had tonight and everyone will have their own preferences on which eatery is the best. But I hope we all understand the great acculturation that the Chinese community had brought into our street food scene; it contributed in making the scene as vibrant and exciting as what it is today. Especially for us who enjoy the boundless options of pork eatery around this area.” Said Lidia just before we parted with a well-fed stomach and broadened vision towards Indonesia’s extensive street food culture.
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Sweet Swine by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
One might think of it as odd or off-putting to have desserts made with pork, but the chefs of The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place took on our challenge.
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have heard of these desserts using pork and bacon for a long time now, but I have to admit, have not tasted any of them. So when we conjured up the idea of a Pig Tales issue, I thought of the idea to finally bite the bullet and have desserts with pork. Thus we challenged the culinary team of The Ritz-Carlton Pacific Place. Executive chef Sean Macdougall and chef Prambudiyono, head of the pastry team took on our challenge and set out to make a couple of pork desserts. After a few weeks of testing, chef Sean messaged me that they were ready. I was told that most of the work was laid on chef Pram’s shoulders, with chef Sean giving direction and inspiration. Pram joined the culinary team at The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Pacific Place in 2007 as pastry sous chef. Now as head of the pastry team, Pram, is responsible for all aspects of the pastry department including the creation of desserts, cakes and pastries for the restaurant, banquet functions, in-room dining, and special events. Pram’s passion, enthusiasm and creativity have recently led him to be voted champion at last year’s Pastry Salon Culinaire. Often unassuming and shy, Pram took on the task and I can safely say, passed with flying
colors. That coming from me, an avowed pork lover. For our pork dessert challenge, Pram and Sean made two items. His first, he called Medan Breakfast because the plating resembles a breakfast dish. It is composed of Gula Merah Pork Bacon Ice Cream, with a Jackfruit and Condensed Milk ‘Fried Egg,’ a Marmalade Brioche and a Kopi Susu Glass. Here they caramelized strips of bacon with a gula merah syrup and then hand cut these with ‘love’ and mixed these into the ice cream mixture. Interesting enough, when I saw this plate, it did not look like dessert. It did look like a breakfast dish. Going with the theme and it’s main ingredient, bacon, you would expect to eat this at breakfast. I quickly tried the ice cream. The rich smokey flavor of bacon is there, but the gulah merah ice cream with its creaminess keeps this at bay. Eating the ice cream with the other components gives you the feeling of eating something familiar and different at the same time. I particularly like the little bacon bits you bite into when eating the ice cream. It’s ingenious and totally delicious. I couldn’t stop eating it! And so did the rest of the team. The second dessert was a Barbecued Pork Fennel Seed Ice Cream Mochi, with Orange Swirl, Meringue, Powdered Mint
and Orange Jelly. This dessert was more refined and was beautifully composed. The pork bones were infused into warm milk with toasted fennel seeds overnight. This mixture was then strained and prepared into the ice cream. Again once I tasted the dessert, the undeniable taste of pork was there. Intense, you could immediately detect its flavor, but it was masked by the fennel seed aromatics and the slight tinge of the orange. Encased in the handmade mochi, this was a lovely treat. Again props go out to the chefs for making this elegant, creative and flavorsome dessert. The two desserts were masterfully done and were successful in incorporating pork. Both exhibiting rich pork flavor, yet not overpowering nor unwarranted. Plus they were both elegantly plated and pleasing to the eye. I wouldn’t mind seeing any of them on a menu, and now that I have sampled them, will definitely order them if I saw them. I would like to thank chefs Sean and Pram for taking on our interesting yet difficult challenge of incorporating pork, a non-traditional dessert ingredient, into their desserts. We are indeed very happy with the outcome. Here’s to more adventures and experiments in the kitchen!
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Barbecued Pork Fennel Seed Ice Cream Mochi, Orange Swirl, Meringue, Powdered Mint and Orange Jelly
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Medan Breakfast -- Gula Merah Pork Bacon Ice Cream, Jackfruit and Condensed Milk â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Fried Egg,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Marmalade Brioche and Kopi Susu Glass
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RUB IT FOR GOOD MEASURE by ADITHYA PRATAMA AND JED DOBLE photographs by MELANIE TANUSETIAWAN
It is easy to agree on the belly as the best part of the pork. The Foodie Magazine shares four of our most beloved comfort food home cooking recipes made with pork belly.
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TEXAS CHILI Serves: 6
INGREDIENTS: 300 gr 300 gr 150 gr 8 cloves 1 no. 5 no. 250gr 1 liter 2 cubes 3 tsp 2 tsp 2 tsp 1 tsp 2 tbsp
Ground beef Pork belly, thinly sliced Bacon, roughly chopped Olive oil Garlic, chopped Large onions, chopped Large tomatoes, diced Tomato paste Beer Beef bouillon Oregano Cumin Chili powder Cajun seasoning Salt & black pepper, to season Unsalted Butter Sour cream Cilantro Buttered rice
“No! There’s no beans in our chili!” I recalled my good friend responded when I asked why there is not a single bean in the Chili I had when visiting Texas last December. She then shared with me her basic recipe for an authentic Texas-style Chili in which I spiced it up with some fatty goodness of pork belly to add the richness into it. It is a hearty dish best served for a barbecue party as a side or dollop some over your burger or hot dog to fancy it up!
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STEPS
{ 6[ N YN_TR `a\PX]\a URNa N YVaaYR OVa \S olive oil and sauté the garlic, onions and bacon until fragrant. { .QQ V[ aUR a\ZNa\ ]N`aR QVPRQ a\ZNa\R` ground beef and pork belly, and cook until brown. { Ab_[ b] aUR URNa( NQQ V[ aUR ORR_ N[Q ORRS bouillon. Let it boil { <[PR O\VYRQ ab_[ V[a\ ZRQVbZ URNa N[Q add in the oregano, cumin, chili powder, Cajun and season with salt and pepper to taste. Reduce the chili for another 30-45 minutes, stir occasionally. { Ab_[ \SS aUR URNa N[Q NQQ V[ aUR b[`NYaRQ butter, stir well. { @R_cRQ U\a dVaU N Q\YY\] \S `\b_ P_RNZ and cilantro on buttered rice.
C O V E R F E AT U R E Adobo is probably one of the best known Filipino dishes. Adobo together with Sinigang (tamarind-based sour soup), are my favorite Filipino dishes. Pork adobo, also known as Adobong Baboy in Tagalog, is a stewed pork in a mixture of garlic, vinegar, and soy sauce. It is a very a popular Filipino recipe and almost every household knows how to prepare it. As a kid, my Mom would cook adobo on the weekends, so it was a welcome treat after a busy week at school. I have picked up her recipe and have tweaked it to suit my taste or the taste of my guests. Being almost a national dish, each household will have its own spin on it. Mine is the addition of fried garlic chips to the end. This gives an extra garlic flavor, plus as extra measure, I return the oil the garlic chips are fried in into the pot, to give it that pungent yet delicious garlic flavor.
PORK ADOBO
STEPS
Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS: 1 kg
1 head 4 pcs 1/2 tbs 1/2 cup 1 cup
Pork belly cut into 2-inch sizes Garlic, pounded Bay leaves Peppercorns, crushed Salty soy sauce Vinegar (cane, white) Cooking oil
{ :N_V[NaR ]\_X V[ cV[RTN_ `\f `NbPR TN_YVP and peppercorns for 30 minutes in the cooking pot. { =ba aUR ]\a \[a\ aUR SYNZR NQQ aUR ONf leaves. Simmer the ingredients. Stir and add water to help make the pork tender. Continue to boil until pork is fork tender and begins to caramelize. { 6[ N `R]N_NaR ]N[ URNa \VY N[Q S_f aUR garlic chips until golden brown. Once done, remove the garlic chips from the oil, set aside. Pour the frying oil into the Adobo pot. { <[PR aR[QR_ aNXR \SS aUR URNa @R_cR dVaU fried garlic chips on top.
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When I studied in Sydney, I waited tables at this restaurant called Lowenbrau just by The Rocks. It was swarmed almost everyday with lots of pork knuckles, sausages and beers going all over the place. But one day, we had a nice leftover pork belly that the chef cooked for the staff meal; it was the crunchiest and most tasteful pork belly I have ever had in my life. With such a simple seasoning, this dish works well with a good mustard, a silky mashed and a tangy sauerkraut!
KRUSTENBRATEN GERMAN ROASTED PORK BELLY Serves: 8
INGREDIENTS: 1 1/2 kg 2 tsp 1 tbsp 1 no. 1 tsp
Pork belly Fennel seeds, crushed Thyme, chopped Lemon, sliced Black pepper, cracked Sea Salt Olive Oil Mustard Applesauce German bread
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STEPS
{ @P\_R aUR `XV[ \S aUR ]\_X ORYYf aUR[ _bO fennel seeds, thyme, lemon, sea salt and black pepper into the scores. { 1_VggYR YN_TR _\N`aV[T ]N[ dVaU \YVcR \VY place the pork belly skin down. Drizzle with more oil and season the under side. { /NXRQ Na Â&#x2018;0 S\_ ZV[baR` aUR[ reduced to 180°C and bake for another 2 hours. { <[ aUR YN`a ZV[baR` ab_[ aUR ]\_X belly upside down. Then rest the pork belly for 15 minutes before carving. Serve warm.
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Spending most of my years in Singapore allowed me to learn a lot from my Chinese friends and their family. One of my most favorite things to have is the mouthwatering Kong Bak Bao and my friendâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s grandma is kind enough to share this hearty recipe to me. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best to slice the belly aroung 1cm thickness to allow the seasonings to seep into the layers of the meat perfectly. Watch the fire as they tend to over caramelize the bottom of the pot when it gets too hot.
HONG SHAO ROU BRAISED PORK BELLY Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS: 700 gr 3 tbsp 2 tbsp 3 cloves 2 no. 3 no. 2 tbsp 1/4 cup 1 1/2 cup
Pork belly, whole Vegetable oil Sugar Garlic Spring onions, cut lengthways Star anise Dark soy sauce Shaoxing wine (Chinese rice wine) Clear stock Steamed bun Scallions Cilantro Hoisin Sauce
STEPS
{ /\VYRQ aUR ]\_X ORYYf S\_ NO\ba ZV[baR` drain the water to be used as stock. Sliced the belly into thick slices of about 6-7cm once cool. { 6[ N ]\a ZRYa aUR `bTN_ N[Q \VY b[aVY brown. Then add in the sliced pork belly to caramelize for about 8 minutes. { .QQ V[ TN_YVP `PNYYV\[ `aN_ N[V`R QN_X `\f sauce, shaoxing wine and stock into the pot and simmer on low heat for about 40-50 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent the pork to burn. { A\dN_Q` aUR R[Q \S aUR P\\XV[T ab_[ the heat high and reduce the sauce into smooth consistency. { @R_cR aUR ORYYf dVaU `aRNZRQ Ob[ Q_R``RQ lightly with hoisin sauce, scallions and cilantro.
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The Warung by JED DOBLE photographs by AKI
In search of the best Indonesian food in Bali, one might have to make the trip down south, to Alila Villas Uluwatu’s The Warung restaurant. Here, wholesome, delicious and authentic Indonesian-inspired food is the order of the day.
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t Alila Villas Uluwatu’s The Warung, each dish is a celebration of Indonesia’s rich variety of flavours, crafted together to delight the most discerning palates. Executive chef Stephane Simond, has steered The Warung to provide authentic Indonesian regional dishes, to be able to showcase the country’s culinary diversity at the same time, provide the best food possible for their guests. Stephane’s culinary career began at the age of 15 with an apprenticeship in l’Auberge Lamartine, one Michelin-starred restaurant in his hometown in the eastern part of France, right in the heart of the Alps. After graduating, he worked in establishments across France and Switzerland; Vista Palace Hotel in Roquebrune Cap Martin, Chateau de Divonne in Divonne-Les-Bains and Relais chateaux La Reserve in Albi. His love for travel took him to the Caribbean where he worked in the kitchens of the beautiful Hotel Le Toiny on the island of St Barthelemy, a Relais & Chateaux property, and La Samanna Hotel by Orient Express in St Maarten. His first foray into Southeast Asia came in 2008 when he became Executive Chef at the renowned Cassis restaurant in Jakarta, Indonesia. His almost five years there nurtured a love for Indonesia, and brought him together with his Indonesian wife. He now brings his many years of finely honed experience to Alila Villas Uluwatu in Bali.
Chef Stephane shares, “I’m deeply French as a chef but I love Asian food, so the excitement and stimulation for me will come from the fact that I’ll have to create, use and develop all my skills, experiences and kitchen partners to develop our food style. This is the most exciting and challenging part. This is why I’m passionate about my job.” Recently, The Warung has begun a mini Indonesian Culinary Festival of its own, with regional chefs showcasing their cuisine at the restaurant, a tribute to the diverse cuisines that contribute to the richness of the Indonesian archipelago. Taking place throughout the year, this festival is a unique opportunity for The Warung’s kitchen team and Chef Stephane, to meet, learn from and be inspired by some of the greatest proponents of Indonesia cuisine, and for guests to dine on their culinary masterpieces. Guest chefs are invited to spend a week in The Warung kitchen, sharing their knowledge, expertise and recipes with the resident chefs with a view to enhancing the authenticity and expanding the repertoire of culinary offerings. At the end of the week, guest have the unique opportunity to savour a spectacular dining experience cooked by the guest chef and The Warung team. In June 2014, The Warung welcomed into the kitchen renowned Indonesian chef Beni Iskabul, the Executive Chef of Jakarta’s Harum Manis Indonesian Restaurant. Chef
ALILA VILLAS ULUWATU | Jl. Belimbing Sari, Banjar Tambiyak, Pecatu, Bali | +62 361 848 2166 www.alilahotels.com/uluwatu
Beni grew up in Pacitan, East Java as is well known for marrying the traditional flavours of Indonesian cuisine found in local warungs with an ability to elevate them to a new level. Combining the finest ingredients with beautiful presentations, his version of authentic recipes exude a strong sense of nostalgia while appealing to sophisticated palates. Next in the festival’s line-up, was food writer, author and self-taught chef Petty Elliott in early September. A native of Manado, North Sulawesi, Petty combines her love for food and travel with an intense passion for uncovering the hidden treasures in Indonesia’s regional cuisines. As an avid champion of Indonesian cuisine and culture, her recipes showcase authentic local ingredients cooked with modern cooking techniques, sharing pride in the traditional foods she grew up with, refreshed for modern palates. Petty Elliott weeklong stint at The Warung culminated with a wonderful dinner cooked by her and the resident chefs, showcasing a fresh take on her native Manadonese cuisine. With this continuing culinary festival and the drive to serve only the best and most authentic Indonesian dishes, The Warung is proving to be the finest Indonesian restaurant on the Island. Make your way down to Alila Villas Uluwatu to sample their excellent food, when you are in search for that Indonesian food fix.
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Founder Bak Kut Teh by KYLE GREGORIO
A definite must-try dish from Singapore is the Bah Kut Teh. Literally translated as “meat bone tea”, Bah Kut Teh, a Chinese soup, consists of meaty pork ribs simmered in a complex broth of herbs and spices.
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n Singapore, there are two styles of Bak kut teh that can be found served in various establishments – teochew style and Klang style. What makes these two bak kut teh styles different is definitely the broth. While teochew version features clear soup with peppery taste, Klang version has thick, cloudy soup with herbal taste. Ask the locals and they would say that the former is more popular than the latter. People usually have bak kut teh for breakfast in the old days. But now this dish could be eaten on any meal of the day, from breakfast to lunch, dinner and even supper. This bak kut teh soup would probably be the “soup for the soul” on a rainy day especially when coupled with tea in a belief that tea will help dissolve large amount of fat in the soup. One bak kut teh place, and definitely the most popular, you will surely enjoy in Singapore is Founder Bak Kut Teh Restaurant
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on Balestier Road that is considered as the “bak kut teh street” in Singapore. It is highly recommended by local foodies and a lot of local and international celebrities have visited this restaurant for a good bowl of bak kut teh. What makes Founder Bak Kut Teh Restaurant the bak kut teh place to go to you might ask? Well, Founders Bak Kut Teh is one of a few bak kut teh places for supper. People who have a bak kut teh craving in the middle of the night must appreciate the operating hours of Founder Bak Kut Teh as it opens till 02:30. Nothing beats a cold rainy night like a hot bowl of bak kut teh. It was a rainy night when I tried it so this is a sure fact. Founder Bak Kut Teh has excellent bak kut teh soup. It is Teochew-style bak kut teh soup. The soup is peppery but not so strong as its counterpart at Ng Ah Sio Pork
Ribs Soup Eating House. For those who do not take spicy food, Founder Bak Kut Teh’s soup is a good choice. Foodies usually have pork ribs with their bak kut teh. The pork ribs that are chopped into four small pieces are decedent. To enhance its taste, do not forget to have it together with dark sauce and chili padi. There is a selection of side dishes with usual items that you can find at any bak kut teh places in Singapore such as youtiao, salted vegetable, braised peanuts and braised tau pok. Founder Bak Kut Teh is open from Wednesday to Monday from 12:00 to 14:00 then they open again at 18:00 to 02:30. They are only closed on Tuesdays. Do try to come as early as possible if you want to avoid the long queues. If ever you pass by Singapore, do make sure that you get to try Founder Bak Kut Teh as I’m sure that if will leave you wanting more.
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FOUNDER BAK KUT TEH | 347 Balestier Road (Under New Orchid Hotel) Singapore 329777 | +65 6352 6192
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BABI GULING TRAILS by ADITHYA PRATAMA photographs by AKI AND ADITHYA PRATAMA
Join us as we explore Bali, the Island of Gods, to taste four babi guling outlets worthy of your taste buds.
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hen visiting Bali, babi guling is a compulsory dish written on everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s itinerary. Babi guling is Balinese style roasted pig that is traditionally spit-roasted for five to six hours over a wood fire to form succulent and juicy pork meat with perfectly crackling skin on the outside. The pork is then dressed with Balinese seasoning mix known as basa gede, and served with white rice with pork skin crackling, assorted side dishes made from the other parts of the pig and a bowl of hearty soup made from pork bones known as kuah balung. After a long dispute within our editorial team over which babi guling worth to be featured, we came up with four of warungs all over Bali that are able to please our palates. We like our babi tender, juicy and perfectly seasoned with skin crisp to the bite, with a good variety of side dishes. Here are our recommendations:
Warung at Alila Villas Uluwatu Jl. Belimbing Sari, Banjar Tambiyak, Pecatu, Bali We never guessed that a decent babi guling would be served in an exquisite setting of Alila Villas Uluwatu. The dish is only available when ordered 24 hours in advance, so do make your reservation to try the tasty crackling skin the pork has prior to a slow spit-roasting process. What we love the most is the flavorful sauce to go with it and the gorengan that comes along with it, crispy, salty goes amazingly well with rice. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss out on the sate lilit that comes with the package with subtle hint of spice and lawar babi with crunchy beans, coconut and fragrant basa gede seasoning. It may be pricier than the other, but it is as pleasant as any babi guling will ever taste.
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Warung Gemah Ripah Jl. WR. Supratman No. 83, Denpasar It is quite difficult to locate this warung for it is hidden along the stretch of Jalan WR Supratman – a busy road that connects commuters from West Bali to the East, but when staying around Sanur or Denpasar this warung is easily accessible for lunch and early dinner. With a single pig roasted every day, the warung sells each of its plates with sticks of sate lilit, sate manis, uritan and pork crackles. But one thing that we particularly loved about the babi guling here are these tiny thing they addressed as sam-sam; the fatty parts of pork belly that is fried to perfect crispness. It provides an additional texture to the dish as well as gives the flavor punch in every bite. Together with the crackling, these sam-sam are sold in packs available for your snacking purposes.
Warung Babi Guling Nadi Jaya Jl. Kubu Anyar, Kuta Many who prefer to stay around Kuta often find it difficult to get a decent plate of babi guling around the neighborhood as most of the good ones are located in Denpasar or closer to the Northern part of Kuta. But we found this one just around the corner from the famous Kuta Beach and not too far from the airport too, Warung Nadi Jaya is often swarmed with Balinese so don’t expect many visitors to be seen here. The plate is graced with the usual composition plus a stick of sate lilit that is deliciously smoky with a heavy taste of lemongrass within. One component that we are really fond of is the mildly sweetened floss like shredded pork meat that gives an extra layer of flavor to the dish. There are tons of pork ribs inside Nadi Jaya’s kuah balung and a good serving of turnip too – just the right amount of balance we need for all those fatty goodness.
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Babi Guling Men Agus Jl. Raya Canggu, Badung Located along the way towards the famous surfing beaches of Canggu, Men Agus has several eateries within that area of the same name. All you need to find is the array of large pork skin displayed in front of the glass showcase – we have to admit that we were drawn to stop because of that, which has became signature of her eatery. We particularly enjoyed the pork seasoning that she served the plate with; a strong punch of Balinese spices and just right amount of chili, it is almost rub-like with fragrant oil coming out from the spices. Men Agus also served her platter with an additional stick of sate manis and loads of gorengan, and vegetable medley of cassava leaves. Her lawar is probably the best we’ve ever had on babi guling plate but watch out for the tiny chilies hidden inside that cost us a good five bottles of water.
Babi Guling Glossary Lawar: Balinese traditional salad
that is commonly made out of young jackfruit for Babi Guling but can also be made out of long beans, coconut and young papaya.
Basa Gede: A mix of Balinese spice
consisting of ginger, galangal, turmeric, kencur, shallots, candlenut, coriander seeds and chili. Often used in many Balinese dishes from lawar, ares to Ayam Betutu.
Kuah Balung: A hearty soup made
out of the pig’s bone with basa gede. Often served with vegetables, but turnip is the most common ones.
Sate Lilit: Balinese traditional satay
Babi Guling Ibu Oka Jl. Suweta, Ubud (Opposite Ubud Palace) Almost every Jakartans’ first encounter with babi guling has come from this eatery in Ubud. Even until today, Babi Guling Ibu Oka remains a destination and Ubud’s favorite eatery listed in many travel guides, websites, and even featured on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservation. As we sat for our plate of babi guling, we noticed that there was one whole pig delivered every 45 minutes or so –all glossy with skin that crackles as the staff cracks it open. Ibu Oka’s seasoning lean towards the milder side with less chili added, there is however a bowl of sambal on the side for those who fancy extra heat on their plate. Many Jakartans had left Ibu Oka and opted for the rest for being “too touristy” reason. However, we feel that Babi Guling Ibu Oka is an institution that first introduced us to this glorified plate of juicy and delicious Balinese suckling pig.
made out of minced chicken or fish that is seasoned with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and chilies. Often served on a flat bamboo skewers or grilled on a stick of lemongrass.
Sate Manis: Balinese style pork satay seasoned with palm sugar, chilies and spices.
Gorengan: Deep fried pork bits that uses the sirloin cuts, neck and the innards.
Uritan: Balinese traditional sausages
filled with goodness of seasoned pigs’ innards encased with its intestines.
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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D
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PONTI YOUNG | Instagram: @pontipinot
T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D
PORK, PINOT AND PONTI by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT
Finding the right wine pairing for pork dishes may sometimes be tricky. We ask Ponti Young to help us out in finding the perfect Pinot for some pork dishes at Bacco.
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’ve known Ponti for sometime now and admire his passion and drive for wine. He has over 10 years of experience in the wine trade, F&B, and hospitality scene. Ponti is a certified wine advisor from Australia and was a wine judge at the Catador Wine Competition, Chile’s largest wine competition. He has traveled extensively for the wine craft. He has worked in Australia, France, Germany and Canada, where he was a Wine Maker at the Pillitteri Estate Winery. In conjunction with his passion for wine, he had successfully created various wine lists for wine bars, casual restaurants, up-scale French fine dining and regularly holds wine tastings and training sessions. Ponti tells me that it all started when he went to Vancouver for university. He was attending and F&B management course, and from there, he got into the program. He wanted to meet the culinary guys, and developed an interest in cooking. There was a wine course too, which he thought was quite mundane, but later he was exposed to the art of wine making and the passion grew from there. I observe that the Jakarta wine scene is growing and ask Ponti about it. He says that the Jakarta scene is growing exponentially. Before there was only a limited number of wines being imported into Indonesia, now there are so many people importing and bringing in a very wide variety of wines into the country. From the huge brands like Penfolds, to smaller boutique brands, they
are all coming into the market. This is a very good sign, Ponti says. “Its a sign of people’s interest, its a sign that people are willing to experiment and try new wines. It’s a very interesting time for wine.” Ponti adds, that people are being more adventurous. They are willing to get into other people’s recommendations. There are people out there who are always interested in learning new things about wine, whether they are beginners or intermediate level. They are always willing to sample different style or label. There is also more interest in the Indonesian market from abroad. There is more expertise coming into the country, representatives from wineries and big companies are visiting Jakarta. It goes hand in hand. The market grows from the demand, but also grows as supply increases. Ponti says that Pinot is traditionally paired with duck. But in that sense, duck and pork have the same structure. The meatiness, the skin and the fat of pork is similar to duck. Pinot has a lot of ripe fruit and a lot of red fruit and is high in acidity. The key is the acidity, this will help cut through the fat of the pork. Executive chef Chandra Yudasswara prepared an array of pork dishes for Ponti to pair the Pinots with. Chef Chandra puts lots of emphasis on the harmony of the food and wine, and also brings over 10 years of passion and experience in cooking to the table. The first dish, Grilled pork chop, Potato mousseline with a Demi glace, is paired with
BACCO | LOTTE Shopping Avenue, Jalan Prof. Dr. Satrio kav. 3-5, LG-38, Jakarta | +62 21 2988 8909 Facebook: Bacco Jakarta | Twitter: @BaccoJKT | Instagram: @baccojakarta
a 2012 Ohau Gravels Pinot Gris, from Ohau, New Zealand. Oahu is a relatively new wine growing region in the North Island of New Zealand. It has a lot of residual sugar in it, and so gives a heavier mouth feel. That compliments the leanness of the pork chops. Next we have the Smoked barbecue pork ribs, with assorted grilled summer vegetables, paired with a 2011 Felton Road ‘Bannockburn’ Pinot Noir, Central Otago New Zealand. The idea here is to match the wine with the smokiness of the barbecue sauce along with the ribs. And finally, the Crispy pork knuckle, with apple cider glaze and pickled mango is served with a 2009 Olivier Leflaive “1er Cru Rugiens, Pommard”, Burgundy, France. Coming from Burgandy, the Pommard style is more masculine, there are a bit more tannins and structure so it can stand up to the depth of the flavor of the sauce and the fattiness of the pork. On purpose, we have asked Ponti to pair wines at various price ranges so that our readers can be inspired to experiment and try wines which are suitable to their budgets. As a final question, I ask Ponti what his advise was to people who are starting to sample wines. “Don’t be afraid. Keep an open mind. Don’t be intimidated by a wine label. Ask questions, most people in the retail environment have quite a bit of knowledge already. Try to ask about where the wine is from, that will give you a good idea of the personality of the wine. Try different things and experiment.”
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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D
Smoked Barbecue Pork Ribs, assorted grilled summer vegetables -- 2011 Felton Road â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Bannockburnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand.
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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D
“Don’t be afraid. Keep an open mind. Don’t be intimidated by a wine label.”
Grilled Pork Chop, Potato mousseline, Demi glace -- 2012 Ohau Gravels Pinot Gris, Ohau, New Zealand.
- Ponti Young
Crispy Pork Knuckle, apple cider glaze and pickled mango -- 2009 Olivier Leflaive “1er Cru Rugiens, Pommard”, Burgundy, France.
Chef Chandra Yudasswara www.thefoodiemag.com | 73
TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
MIE KANGKUNG BU DJOKO by KYLE GREGORIO
Y
up... it’s a garage fully covered by walls with a small entrance. Kedai Bu Djoko was established in 1984 where Bu Djoko further explored her passion for cooking. At first, she opened her eatery ust so that she could kill time while she waited for her children to come home from school. As time went buy, she became more serious in her eatery and started to introduce more dishes that Bu Djoko herself attained from her mother as her mother passed down the recipes to her. When I first visited Kedai Bu Djoko, I’ve never thought that it would be filled with so many people. It was a lunch trip with my friend when I went there, we quickly grabbed a table once we spotted an empty one and as we were starving, we immediately ordered the famous mie kangkung babi, kerupuk mie and es Bangkok as I’ve heard from others that these were the dishes to order. It was pretty quick for the orders to be served on our table even though there were so many people there. For me, the mie kangkung and the kerupuk mie are really worth travelling to Muara Karang for. The taste of the mie kangkung soup is very well seasoned, but for better taste, I suggest that you add jeruk limo into it. The mie kangkung consists of pork meat, chicken, chicken liver and gizzard, shrimp and the broth uses pork ribs. The same review goes to the kerupuk mie as well. In my opinion, this kerupuk mie, with its bumbu kacang (peanut sauce), is the best I’ve ever eaten. It really is a must try! They buy their ingredients from local markets as well as, surprisingly, from Singapore. They are open everyday from 9am – 4pm, if you’re planning to dine here, please come early to be able to buy the Pastel there because it’s really delicious as an appetizer and you might not get he chance to buy some is it sells out fast If you are craving for the best pork mie kangkung then you have to travel to Muara Karang as they don’t have any other branches and are no thinking of opening one yet. But rest assured your trip will be well worth it.
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Who would have thought that a fully covered house garage in Muara Karang is actually selling the most delicious pork mie kangkung in town?
TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
KEDAI BU DJOKO | Jalan Pluit Karang Molek 1/1, Jakarta | +62 21 669 4282
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TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
KUOTIE GANG BANGO by KYLE GREGORIO
There might be a lot of restaurants selling kuotie in Jakarta, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s impossible to defeat the taste of this one kuotie. Curious?
M
ost people call it Kuotie Gang Bango ever since it opened back in 1957 as the alleyway where it is located used to be the location of a sauce making company although the name on the signage in front of the restaurant is Rumah Makan Sedap. Is the myth about the name true? We may not find out but the name has stuck into everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mind. If you are coming from Gunung Sahari road towards Senen, you have to pass SMAK 3 first then the first alley will be the alleyway of Kuotie Gang Bango. Be sure to keep your eyes open and slow down for the alleyway because you might pass it, as it is a narrow alleyway and quite hard to spot when you are speeding. Once you turn in the alleyway, look for the rows of cars parked beside a house like
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restaurant and you have arrived. This restaurant is actually a home converted into a restaurant that looks and feels better than eating on side street hawker places. The house is simple but feels modern, as they have done renovations to it. It used to feel like a house from the by gone years. Aside from them selling their famous kuotie, they also sell sekba, mixed pigs parts that patrons look for as well when visiting the establishment. Not only is the kuotie famous but the owner is famous too for past customers who have gone before, for looking mean and catty but she is in fact very friendly behind the cash register as she is also the cashier. The wait time for the kuotie is not too long. It will only take 10-15 minutes for your freshly cooked kuotie to reach your
table. In the mean time, you can mix your sauce. On each table, you can find crushed garlic, soy sauce, sesame oil, chilies and vinegar. Frequent visitors usually mix it all. The kuotie is roasted until the skin is crisp on the bottom, while the top skin is thin and still feels soft on the tongue. In it there is minced pork that is succulent due to the marinade and juicy on the first bite. This is very much enjoyed dipped on your concocted sauce. The mixture of the kuotie and the sauce compliment each other and is guaranteed to make you addicted to it. I myself can down at least 10 of this bite-sized goodness. For those of you left curious after reading this article, be sure to try Kuotie Gang Bango and be sure to bring enough cash, as they do not accept any other payment methods.
TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
RUMAH MAKAN SEDAP | Jalan Gunung Sahari I no. 19, Jakarta | +62 21 422 2099, +62 21 9607 0737
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I CO N I C
A PLATEFUL OF HISTORY by ADITHYA PRATAMA photographs by RICHMOND BLANDO
Discover how a modest coffee shop in Gang Kenanga turned into one of Jakartaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beloved comfort food.
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I CO N I C
F
lashback to the 1960s Jakarta where Senen area was a trading central of the city, stood proud was the Apotik Rathkamp –who is now known as Kimia Farma, alongside the first ever Gunung Agung bookstore and two of the first cinemas in Jakarta: Rex Theater (Bioskop Grand now) and Rivoli Theater along Jalan Kramat Raya. Here the traders lived next to each other be it migrants from Sumatera or those who came from China to support the trading scene of Batavia then. Between those busy streets is Gang Kenanga, a humble street lined with ylangylang trees –known in Indonesia as pohon kenanga, with one of the first bicycle stores in town Tjong & Co. not far from a modest coffee shop regularly swarmed with the Chinese and Dutch who remained in the area prior to the independence. The coffee shop was so popular it started to sell regular portion meals; one of their claims to fame was the Nasi Campur with hefty servings of pork on top of it. The coffee shop became more popular and transformed itself into the legendary eatery we all now identify as Nasi Campur Kenanga. For most of Chinese family, recipes were meant to be shared only across the generation. It is believed that if people outside of the family executed the recipes,
the end result will not be as satisfactory as if its own member did it. Nasi Campur Kenanga also did this same philosophy and allowed only its successors to get into the pork business. Up till this date, the eatery is run by the family’s fifth generation and counting, living to its name to provide the best Nasi Campur in town. The humble coffee shop was no longer there as Gang Kenanga is now turned into a packed residential area. The eatery is now housed in Ruko Segi Tiga Senen, not far from where the street was in the 60s, alongside more than five other outlets all over Jakarta and Tangerang. There are also Nasi Campur Putra Kenanga and Nasi Campur Putri Kenanga that are run by the children serving a similar dish with their very own touches and selections into it. We visited Kedai Kenanga in Permata Hijau where images of the eatery in Gang Kenanga were displayed proudly as a part of their heritage. Nasi Campur Hainam Spesial is what we favored most from the place; a generous helping of Hainanesestyle rice (cooked in chicken broth) with slices of bright red honey-roasted pork (Char siu), crispy pork belly (Siu bak), braised pig’s ears, pork dumplings (Shumai), five-spice pork rolls (Ngo hiang), tea egg and a stick of pork satay flavored with
KEDAI KENANGA | Ruko Permata Hijau, Blok F No.26, Jl. Patal Senayan, Permata Hijau, Jakarta T: +62 21 5794 1072, +62 21 5794 1073
coriander seeds, cumin powder and palm sugar for a mild sweetness to complete the concoction. A bowl of rich pork soup with bits of salted vegetables was served to finish the dish with. Apart from the Nasi Campur, Kedai Kenanga also serves noodles topped with char siu and siu bak. The dish can also be completed with trotter, slices of chicken or rica-rica seasoning to spice the dish up. We enjoyed the thirst-quenching liang cha or liang teh –a Chinese herbal tea composed with luo han guo, dried chrysanthemum flower, sugarcane and lalang grass rhizoma. The drink is popularly known within the Chinese community to ‘cool down’ the body and provide good body immunity too. Although the herbal taste might be overpowering for some, the sweetness helps in making it a tasty drink to enjoy on a hot day. Kedai Kenanga is a witness of Chinese migrants history in Jakarta. Together, the family strived to make a business and create a fortune in a foreign land without forgetting the traditional values, which many often do, on their way to success. Through each plate of Nasi Campur served, we honor the legacy that the family has provided through the years to keep their culture and heritage alive between all the streamlining the city have gone through.
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A F O O DI E ’ S L I F E
RUMMAN AMANDA by ADITHYA PRATAMA
As the lady behind Vin+ Group’s creative marketing activities, Rumman Amanda shares her long history with the industry and serious affair with her bread and butter.”
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or Rumman Amanda, her career in hospitality began in 2008 at one of the biggest hospitality groups in Jakarta; Ismaya Group. She was recruited as Marketing and Promotion for Social House immediately after she graduated from Trisakti University. After assisting the first two Jakarta Culinary Festival as Project Manager and two years with the company, Rumman decided to stray a little bit and follow her passion for fashion –she joined a big retail company as marketing head for their fashion department in 2010. But earlier this year, Rumman got back into the food and beverage field by joining Vin+ Group as Corporate Marketing Manager for all of their outlets in Jakarta and Bali. Rumman is now in charge for both Vin+ and Sake+ in composing various marketing and branding activities which includes wine and sake promotion, tasting sessions and the ever so popular wine pairing dinner that had featured tasting menus from chefs like William Wongso and Mandiff Warokka of Teatro Gastroteque to be paired with Vin+ plethora of wine list. She also helped in composing the restaurants menu based on her data. It is her market insights that assist their in-house chefs in creating menu selections that would please patrons from each and every single one of their outlets. “I often ask the chefs to come with me to dine outside just so that they would get the idea of what is happening in the industry” explained Rumman in between
Twitter and Instagram: @rummanamanda
her morning coffee chat with The Foodie Magazine; “I believe that by doing so, they would be able to invent new dishes that will sell in our outlets. That’s my strategy for the company.” Her love for food is what brought her back to the industry. Rumman is a true foodie; she never was a picky eater and every single meal –be it from a roti bakar warung at the corner of her place or her favorite restaurant; Mozaic, in Ubud, always created a unique and different experience for her. Rumman always embraces her food and easily describe it as her definition of happiness. Even when she doesn’t like it, she wouldn’t take it the hard way and take it as a lesson. “If the food is bad, I take it as a lesson that the place may not be suitable for my palate” explained Rumman; “because every palate is different. So if someone likes the food in one place, doesn’t mean that I have to like it also and vice versa. I may not follow the trend regularly, but I always stick with the places that I love the most.” Service in hospitality industry, for Rumman, is one of the most important factors to determine the success of an establishment. Her biggest peeve is terrible service –she swore to never go to a couple of places just because the service was pretty poor. Rumman believes that good service has to be attentive with a personal touch to it. From simple, warm and sincere greetings to addressing the regular patrons with their
names, and remembering their regular orders and preferences. These minute details are what she considers as a good service. “This little individual touches is what makes me love this industry –it’s what makes it vibrant and not so robotic. A service personnel that is always on the ball will capture my attention most of the time.” As a mother of three handsome boys, Rumman regularly prepares simple meals for her boys. For her, it is important that she knows what the boys are having even when they are eating outside but at the same time for them to experience different flavors to keep them curious about food and keeping them from being picky eaters. All of her three boys are raised to be foodies just like their mommy. Rumman will not care for rice or noodle or pasta, but give her warm bread with good butter and she would cancel all of her diet plans. She regularly patronizes the Authentique Bakery in Kemang for their delicate croissant. When in Bali, Livingstone and Monsieur Spoon are always on her list of places to visit for their extensive range of pastries and breads alongside a good cup of coffee. “So I heard there’s a French lady who regularly supplied to few restaurants from her kitchen in Jalan Benda and I heard it was so good,” exclaimed Rumman, “We’re doing few changes to our bread here in Vin+, so I will absolutely hunt her down to get a good sample portion for me to try first”.
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CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E
Anastasia Siantar by ELLYNA TJOHNARDI
Who would have thought that the petite and pretty, almost porcelain doll-like figure of Anastasia Siantar as a big foodie. The wildly popular fashion blogger sits down with Ellyna Tjohnardi and chats about, what else, food.
A
nastasia Siantar can actually eat! She tells me that she can eat, without flinching, what most people would consider unsightly, animal entrails. Apparently, there are a lot more fascinating facts about Anastasia Siantar than meets the eye. These I discovered as we sat down and chatted over some foodgasmic Crispy Pork Belly, one of the signature dish at Thefctry Bistro in West Jakarta. Anastasia Siantar, third child of five (all girls) siblings, is actually a Tourism Management graduate, who got her degree in Singapore and then went on to learn French language in Paris for 2 years. Anastasia, or more endearingly known to her avid mass of followers as AnazSiantar, lost significant weight when she decided out of the blue, during high school, to lose weight. What Anaz did, would not be recommended by any dieticians, but shedding 9kg in three weeks was a drastic change indeed, that her peers thought she went under the knife. Anaz did the feat with iron will and over the years, she has developed her own eating habits that maintains her petite figure, yet still allows her to indulge herself in her favorite treats. And her secrets? A cup of latte for breakfast, drink water, eat lunch heartily, avoid rice and bread and most importantly, try to avoid dinner, unless at an event or special occasion. After holding back our saliva all the while taking the photos, I finally got a few decent shots of Anaz. We finally could delight in the tender and well seasoned, slow-cooked Crispy Pork Belly, served with silky smooth mashed potato, and the famous spicy Ox Tongue Don with Foie Gras. But our conversation continued: Ellyna Tjohnardi (ET): Please tell The Foodie readers about yourself. Anastasia Siantar (AS): Hello, I’m Anastasia Siantar, 25 years old, I first joined
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LOOKBOOK.nu in 2009 and didn’t expect the response that I would generate. Since then, many people asked me to make a blog and yeah, I started blogging two years after that. ET: Tell us three little known facts about yourself that are related to food. AS: 1. I love to eat good food. 2. I like taking pictures of beautiful food. 3. Japanese food is always a good idea for me. ET: Do you have a favourite food and what is it? AS: Yes, I love Sashimi! Especially when its fresh. ET: What is your typical breakfast like? AS: A cup of latte in the morning is more than enough for me; it never fails to make my day. ET: Please share your favourite restaurant/ cafe/eatery in Jakarta and overseas, what makes you love it? AS: 1. Tatemukai at Grand Indonesia, Jakarta. Fresh and really good sashimi, this is the best omakase in Jakarta, period. 2. Jöel Robuchon at Champs Élysées, Paris, France. French fine dining at its finest! 3. Bonjour Cafe at Ranch Market Pesanggrahan, Jakarta. This is simply my favorite place to chill out with my little sister, because its really near my home, its one of my favorite places to take pictures too. ET: Do you consider yourself a picky / selective eater?
AS: Nope, I eat almost everything, including the entrails of an animal, such as the guts, lungs, liver, heart, you name it. It seems gross to some, but I’m actually pretty fine with it, because these are cooked anyway and aren’t served raw. That being said, I do have my own limits and will not have the guts to eat balut (fertilized duck egg, a traditional Filipino delicacy). ET: Name one food that you will never ever touch / eat? AS: Bittergourd! ET: Do you cook? If yes, what’s your signature dish? AS: I’m not good in cooking, but I’m really good in making crabstick (kani) salad hahaha! ET: Please share your tips with The Foodie readers on how to eat well and still look great. AS: I always eat enough for myself, not too much and simple exercise will do. ET: You take great photos (of yourself and of objects), where did you pick up the skill and would you mind sharing some tips to The Foodie readers? AS: Oh wow I’m flattered, but really my pictures are nothing compared to the pictures taken by other talented bloggers in Jakarta. To be honest, I don’t always take good pictures and I only post those which are good enough in my eyes. So from our conversation, its evident that Anaz is not just a fashion blogger but also a real foodie. I hope she inspires our readers out there.
M AYA â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S M U S I N G
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Instagram and Twitter: @maya _ aldy
M AYA ’ S M U S I N G
MAYA’S Special Pork Stuffing by MAYA ALDY
This issue of the Foodie magazine focuses on pork meat. Chef Maya decided to put mixed sausages and bacon in the stuffing of her dish to add flavor and fullness.
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ovember is the month of thanksgiving where friends and families dine together. Usually they enjoy a roasted bird for their main course. This time, I decided to make it simple. Instead of using turkey, I used chicken. Why chicken you ask? When you want to eat a thanksgiving bird but there is only the two or three of you, cooking a big piece of turkey will be a bit too much and the bird doesn’t really fit into conventional home ovens and it’s not easy to get. Compared to chicken that you can find anywhere. So I decided to pick chicken, everybody is familiar with chicken but what’s going to be special is I’m going to roast the chicken in a manner of making a turkey. What’s also special about the chicken is I brined it for a day in a mixture of lemon juice, herbs, sugar and vinegar. The next morning, after brining for 24 hours, I pick the chicken up from the brining liquid and I pat it dry inside and out. Brining gives a nice flavor to the meat. It also makes the chicken meat tenderer. You dab the chicken dry and you work on it like how you work a turkey. For the stuffing, I used rustic bread that we made ourselves, brown rice and for the meat, this time I used mixed pork sausage and bacon. It’s local pork sausage from Bali. I paired the dish with vegetables and I made cranberry sauce that I cooked with local cider just to give it a little kick and sweetness. Its very easy, the only hard thing to do is you giving it the 24 hours time to brine. The process shouldn’t take more than 2 hours. It’s a good recipe, not only for thanksgiving dinner, but also a small dinner party in your house. Try it for yourselves! It’s easy and quick to make.
Love,
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M AYA â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S M U S I N G
STEPS
For Chicken { /_V[T PUVPXR[ N[Q NYY aUR V[T_RQVR[a` V[ N stockpot, fill with just enough water to cover the chicken. Soak overnight. { =_RURNa aUR \cR[ a\ " 0 ]ba PU\]]RQ onion, garlic and carrot on a bed of a roasting pan. Pat dry the chicken and place it on the pan, dress with lemon slices, herbs and season well. { @YVQR aUR ObaaR_ aU\_\bTUYf V[`VQR aUR cavity. Roast the chicken in the oven for 2 hours.
ROAST CHICKEN WITH PORK AND APPLE STUFFING Serves: 6
INGREDIENTS: 1 pc 1 pc 5 pcs 2 tbsp 1 tbsp 2 pcs
Chicken, whole Garlic bulb Bay leaf Peppercorn, whole Salt Lemon Water
1 pc 1 pc 2 pcs 2 pcs
Onion, chopped Garlic, chopped Carrot, chopped Lemon, sliced Thyme Rosemary Bay leaf Salt & pepper Unsalted butter
Pork & Apple Stuffing 1 pc. Red delicious apple, peeled & cubed 1 pc Granny smith apple, peeled & cubed 100 gr Button mushroom 1 pc Onion, chopped 200 gr Pork sausages, sliced (can be substituted with other meat) 2 slices Day old bread, crumbed 50 gr Dried & frozen cranberry 50 gr Raisins 15 gr Mixed fresh herbs Salt & pepper 330 ml Apple cider 200 ml Chicken stock Cranberry Sauce 500 gr 500 ml 330 ml 2 sticks 2 tbsp 1 tbsp
Cranberry (frozen or fresh) Orange juice Apple cider Cinnamon Cranberry jam Unsalted butter Salt, to taste
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For Stuffing { 0\\X NYY aUR N]]YR` Zb`U_\\Z \[V\[ sausages, crumbed breads, cranberries, raisin and herbs in a saucepan.
{ 1RTYNgR dVaU N]]YR PVQR_ N[Q PUVPXR[ stock, cook further until reduced, season with salt and pepper. { @abSS aUR PUVPXR[ dVaU aUR `abSSV[T 8RR] warm. For Cranberry Sauce { <[ UVTU URNa O_V[T NYY aUR V[T_RQVR[a` except the butter to boil. { /_V[T aUR URNa Q\d[ N[Q aUVPXR[RQ aUR sauce down. { <[PR aUVPXR[RQ ab_[ \SS aUR URNa N[Q `aV_ in the unsalted butter. { @R_cR a\TRaUR_ dVaU aUR `abSSRQ PUVPXR[
M AYA â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S M U S I N G
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TRIED AND TESTED
DE DI ET RICH ><
GUILT-FREE PORK BRUNCH
T H E FOODIE by ADITHYA PRATAMA photographs by MELANIE TANUSETIAWAN
People usually associate pork dishes with the words rich and fatty, but Chef Jerome Laurent of Cassis Gourmand begs to differ.
C
oming from a family with long history with the hospitality industry, it only comes naturally for Cassis Gourmand’s Executive Chef Jerome Laurent to be an expert in his field. As a young apprentice, Chef Jerome had spent years in the reputable restaurant La Cote d’Or where he kicked off his journey in the industry. From then on, Chef Jerome accumulated experiences, working next to esteemed chefs like Alain Ducasse and Bernard Loiseau as well as cooking for the Swedish Royal Family. It was not until 2004 that his very own restaurant Le Cilantro, was awarded with one Michelin star. Chef Jerome joined Cassis Gourmand a little over a year ago. At the restaurant, he brought his signature Provencal cooking style that involves lots of fresh seafood and vegetable that gives a fresher flavor which he calls ‘light’ French cooking. The similar application is what he introduced to us when he shared with The Foodie Magazine a lighter pork dish without compromising the flavor. By using Solomilo pork, Chef Jerome is able to retain the tasty pork flavor in the dish, by adding the thin slices of ham, this serves as just the cherry on top of the whole dish. He cuts through any richness by working with lots of vegetables, making medley of greens combined with cherry tomatoes and artichoke that adds to the complexity of the flavors. As for the dressing, Chef Jerome stuck through with the light, calorie-free and tangy balsamic vinegar that not only cuts through any fattiness but also brings together all the components within the dish. He lovingly called the dish his Pork Brunch, since it has all the elements for a fun, flavorful and light Sunday brunch dish. Do give this posh salad a try in your kitchen!
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CASSIS GOURMAND | Pavilion Apartment Retail Arcade, Jalan KH. Mas Mansyur kav. 24, Jakarta | T: +62 21 5794 1500 Twitter: @CassisGourmand
B R O U G H T TO Y O U B Y D E D I E T R I C H
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TRIED AND TESTED
SOLOMILLO PORK PATANEGRA BRUNCH SALAD Serves: 6
INGREDIENTS: 900 gr
100 gr 100 ml 2 heads 80 gr 1 no. 20 ml 50 gr 4 pcs 6 gr 5 gr 100 ml 100 ml 10 gr 5 gr
Pork Solomillo Patanegra Bellota ham Chicken jus Baby bok choy Baby lettuce & arugula Tomato, de-skinned and diced Balsamic vinegar Cherry tomatoes, quartered Artichoke Chili, de-seed and toasted Dried basil Olive oil Vegetable stock Garlic Unsalted Butter
STEPS
For Meat { =_RURNa aUR \cR[ Na $"°C, season the pork with salt then place in a large roasting pan to caramelize the outer skin.
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{ @YVPX aUR ]N[ V[a\ aUR \cR[ S\_ " ZV[baR` ?RZ\cRQ aUR pork from the pan, sliced it and return to the oven for another 15 minutes. { 1RTYNgR aUR ]\_X dVaU PUVPXR[ Wb` cRTRaNOYR `a\PX N[Q butter.
B R O U G H T TO Y O U B Y D E D I E T R I C H
For Vegetables { /_NV`RQ aUR ONOf O\X PU\f dVaU \YVcR \VY TN_YVP N[Q vegetable stock.
{ /_V[T a\TRaUR_ NYY aUR cRTRaNOYR` V[ \[R O\dY N[Q `RN`\[RQ dVaU balsamic vinegar.
De Dietrich DOP1180X – Multifunction Plus Pyroclean Oven The Art of creating gastronomic wonders… Offering 3 levels of cooking mode to suit the master-chef who needs no help (Expert Mode), the home-chef in training who requires some guidance (Cooking Guide Mode) and the amateurs (ICS Mode) and an added bonus (Low Temperature Cooking), De Dietrich offers you perfect results each time you express your culinary talents!
{ @R_cR ]\_X a\TRaUR_ dVaU O\X PU\f N_aVPU\XR `NYNQ N[Q UNZ V[ one plate.
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PREPARING THE ARTICHOKE Cleaned the artichoke, peel away the outer leaves and trim the stem, removed the skin from the stem and its remnant from the base. Soaked in water with lemon juice, then bring to simmer for 20 minutes until tender.
LA GALERIE DE DIETRICH Jl. Kemang Raya No. 17, Jakarta 12730 Tel: +62 2171 80349 marketing@kitchenatelier.co.id
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HIANG MARAHIMIN – THE PERANAKAN CUISINE GURU by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT AND HIANG MARAHIMIN’S PERSONAL COLLECTION
Tracing back the origin of LKI (Lembaga Kuliner Indonesia), or this country’s very first private educational enterprise in cooking and culinary lifestyle to promote Indonesian cuisine, you cannot discount one of the big names behind the legend. With her rich peranakan heritage and her lifetime work as a journalist and editor, Mrs Hiang Marahimin is exactly the one we are looking for.
STUFF OF LEGEND
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rs Hiang Marahimin’s reputation preceded way before I decided to pay a visit to her residence in Condet neighborhood, Jakarta. Normally people would visit this vicinity because it is known as the place to find authentic Middle Eastern and Betawi cuisine owing to its indigenous communities there. Despite the temptation, I decided to proceed first to Mrs Marahimin’s residence that appears a lot like an oasis in the middle of a populated urban neighborhood like found in many other places in Jakarta. Her house is something that people would dream of nowadays with a lot of space, a beautiful garden, clean and tidy, relatively close to the city center and has a really homey working space for her work as a writer and editor until this very day. Not long, she came out and greeted us warmly as I sensed earlier from our telephone conversation. She reminds me a lot of one of my grandmothers with her short cut silvered hair and her casual exterior. We sat altogether on her dining table and she offered some refreshments of her homemade moon cakes and the traditional mentho (steamed minced beef or chicken meat roll with thick coconut flavor) that I last had years ago. How nostalgic! While at that Mrs Marahimin started to tell us her share in the Indonesian journalism world and her love with food, specifically anything related to her peranakan descendants. “Born in Semarang, I witnessed so many things about peranakan culture that was unknown to many Indonesians. I was hoping that one day I can share it with the world”, says Ibu Hiang, as many would call her. In order to seek for higher education, Ibu Hiang enrolled as a student in University of Indonesia majoring in English literature. “My days were filled with cooking alongside fellow students in the dorm no matter how hard it was to find good ingredients back then”, she reminisces. Her college years were roughly on the same age during the
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times of political turbulence, bridging the era between Soekarno and then Soeharto. “Young people nowadays would never know that there was a time when we can only buy ingredients from black markets even for basics such as butter or sugar”, she continues. She then pursued her career as a lecturer of literature and spent some time to study further to as far as The States. Upon her return, she was immediately asked by the biggest names behind the success of Femina magazine group, Mrs Pia Alisjahbana and husband Mr Sofyan Alisjahbana, to contribute her time there. Being a happygo-lucky kind of person, Mrs Marahimin decided to just take the offer and see wherever the road will take her. With Femina, thanks to her dedication as a hardworking editor and proficient home cook, she was given the opportunity to create the first cookbook ever in Indonesia. “I decided to start with simple home dishes since many young ladies that time started to forget how to cook the way their parents did”, she says. Her idea was opposed even from the very beginning, but she was still given the opportunity nonetheless. “Together with Ibu Roos Djalil, we did it step-by-step with in the kitchen and me with the text and standardizing the recipe”, she continues. The book then became a top seller and printed several times and even made in English version. The cookbook perhaps, was one of the biggest booms in the 1980s. After several years working in Femina, Mrs Marahimin discussed her career with her husband, one of Indonesia’s greatest literary minds, the late Mr Ismail Marahimin. “Keeping up between two jobs was tough, especially when Femina was about to become a weekly magazine”, says Ibu Hiang. Her husband gave the consent and so her future was then decided that it will be all in journalism and with feature writing and food as her focal points. It was then in 1989 when she initiated LKI with fellow peers of excellence in the
culinary world at that time. Though the enterprise was destined to be short-lived, she remembers how glorious it was if it still can be continued, “We had a complete kitchen, we had cooking classes and seminars, and we even once invited Chef Martin Yan in the 1990s!” After her brief spell with LKI, she became a culinary consultant for another of Indonesia’s famous publication, Nova and she, alongside her team, scour all over Indonesia to arrange food events. Before her retirement, she was managing her own magazines and probably the most monumental one was Santap. “If everything went well, Santap would be the very foundation of, nowadays, food magazines specializing in recipes”, says Ibu Hiang. Several years ago, she finally made her dream come true by publishing her own cook book about Indonesian peranakan cuisine and she incorporated the recipes by also introducing the Chinese festivity days and cultural traditions that her people always celebrate each year. “You can see from my cookbook that there are so many home recipes that you might sometimes encounter but never thought it was originally peranakan and of course, rarities that you can only find in Semarang”, Ibu Hiang explains. For me, an enthusiast in anything about food, it was a gold mine waiting to be further discovered by us who love our local food and Ibu Hiang further strikes me as the source of knowledge that people should know more about. Nowadays Ibu Hiang spends her day working from her home and is also the instructor for Femina group in editing and feature writing thus standardizing it so that each magazine in the company can follow up with whatever theme the young journalists are working on. “At this age, I would ask everyone to just come here if they want to discuss anything about food or writing”, she says smiling, signifying that I might have to revisit her from time to time if I want to call myself a real foodie.
STUFF OF LEGEND
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PA N T R Y 1 0 1
KNOW YOUR PORK by KYLE GREGORIO
Pork Neck
Pork Loin
Pork Ham
The pork neck is a well muscled and very flavorful cut of meat, with a lot fatter than the pork shoulder, and yet still a lot less fat than the pork belly. The pork neck is wonderful used in many preparations, and at the restaurant we use it for grilling, braising, and even slow smoky BBQ. Use pork neck instead of other cuts of pork for all your favorite recipes, and see what a difference it will make. Roasts will be tender and basted by the fat within the neck, and in my opinion, pork neck makes for the very best smoky pulled pork BBQ possible.
Pork loin is a cut of meat created from the tissue along the top of the rib cage. It is usually cut into chops (bone in) or steaks (boneless) then grilled, baked or fried. Loin can also be cured to make bacon. The entire pork loin can be roasted, or it can be cut into individual chops or cutlets. The tenderloin is taken from the rear of the pork loin, and baby-back ribs come from the upper ribcage area of the loin. Above the loin is another section of fatback, which can be used for making lard, salt pork, or added to sausage or ground pork.
A ham is a piece of pork that comes from the rear leg of a pig. A fresh ham is one that hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t been cured or smoked. This means it is raw pork that must be completely cooked, which, depending on the size of the ham, can take about 5 hours. What most of us know as ham, whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the sliced boiled ham in a deli sandwich or the large piece of meat studded with cloves and covered with rings of pineapple, is in fact a lean cut from the rear leg of a pig that has been cured or smoked. A ham may be the whole leg or half but what most of us think of as a baked ham is almost always a half leg, a piece of meat that weighs about 9 pounds.
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PA N T R Y 1 0 1
If you’re going to eat pork, do it right! Or at least know the parts. Pork is divided into large sections called primal cuts, which you can see illustrated in our pig diagram. These primals are then broken down further into individual retail cuts, which is what you find at you grocery stores.
Pork Picnic Shoulder
Pork Spare Ribs
Pork Belly Bacon
A pork picnic tastes great because it’s a tough cut of meat. If that sounds like a contradiction, you need to know that it’s not. Tough cuts of meat contain a lot of connective tissue. And when connective tissues are exposed to relatively low temperatures for a long time, they soften up. Part of the tough tissue liquefies into a gelatin-like substance that tastes very good, and at the same time makes the meat really moist. Another reason a picnic tastes so good is that it’s a fatty piece of meat. As the meat slowly cooks, the fat melts, basting the meat from the inside out, adding flavor and moistness.
Spareribs come from the belly of the hog and are known for their delicious, meaty pork flavor. These ribs are the least meaty variety of ribs, but full of flavor. Spareribs are typically larger and heavier than back ribs. Ribs are commonly prepared with either “wet” or “dry.” Ribs rubbed with a mixture of herbs and spices are called dry ribs. Such rubs can be applied just before barbecuing. Ribs basted with sauces during the barbecuing process are called wet ribs. For best
Pork belly is not, as you may think, the stomach. Rather, it is the flesh that runs on the underside (the belly) of the pig and surrounds the stomach. It is one long cut of meat with plenty of fat worked into the meat, which is why it is prized for curing and turning into bacon or pancetta. It can also be cooked fresh and is often seen on menus as “braised pork belly.”
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W H AT C H E F E AT S
ADITHYA PRATAMA by KYLE GREGORIO photographs by HIMAWAN SUTANTO
Chef Adith is no stranger to the Foodie magazine. Nowadays, not an issue goes by where he isn’t involved, not just in the styling of the food during photo shoots but also in the conception of the magazine.
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f he isn’t busy helping the Foodie magazine, he is busy with his monthly columns in lifestyle magazines as well as styling food for restaurants, brands and other clients of his. But that has not always been the case for Chef Adith. For the past four to five years, he has only been busy inside kitchens and has not been thinking about being involved in publications. Chef Adith feels that his focus on journalism was caused by him realizing that there isn’t enough manpower to explore the food more in detail compared to the manpower for creating the dishes and the creative minds in the industry. “The whole reason why I’m taking a detour from the kitchen and into the magazine industry is
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basically to share what I know about food and what I love about food.” Says Chef Adith. By next year, Chef Adith will travel to New York to pursue his bachelor’s degree in food study. He wants to explore food more than it being just a mere recipe. His previous two kitchen diplomas were more about the techniques and skills but not about beyond how to make it. “With food study, its a lot to see food more on a bigger image, the historical issues about it, through the social politics food, the economic impact it has, the cultures, its heritage and traditions. It’s the bigger image of food. And that is the whole reason why I’m moving and I want to get this degree. It’s almost seeing food in a different way, it’s the other side of food
that most people in general know. I get to see food in a bigger picture with this degree.” Explains Chef. One of Chef Adith’s favorite pork dishes is bak kut sayur asin simply because he loves pork ribs and anything that has pork broth because of the richness of the taste. He especially loves the idea of putting preserved vegetables on the sayur asem to balance everything out in the dish. “I love anything that is pork!” admits chef Adith. Other pork dishes that are memorable to him are dishes that are a bit conventional and at the same time not meant to be. “I had nasi goreng pork belly in Vin+ and It’s a traditional nasi goreng with the seasoning similar to any nasi goreng kampung you will find in streets of Jakarta. Then they casually added slices of pork belly to go with it. The flavor is just amazing. Apparently, Indonesian spices goes perfectly well with pork. It’s not too complex but at the same time is flavorful enough to capture the richness and that’s what elevates the dish to become better. Nasi goreng is not usually served with pork unless it’s Chinese nasi goreng.” says chef Adith. On his spare time, he loves to go scuba diving and binge watching American Horror Story.
ADITHYA PRATAMA | www.chefadith.tumblr.com | Twitter and Instagram: @adith1801
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