The Bortex Gazette

THE

GAZETTE ISSUE Nº1 - OCTOBER 2015

Jacket €159 Shirt €39 Cardigan €59 Tie €29 Pocket Square €14

AUTUMN/WINTER 2015 4

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16

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Bortex: Why We’re Different

From Sheep to Shop Floor: Our Creative Process

Festive Inspiration: Gifts for Gentlemen

Ladies’ Day: Trends in Tailoring

La Bella Vita: Inspiration from Venice

The Art of Retail: The world of Gagliardi

Concept & Editor: Bortex Group • Photography: Andrew Randon • Model Photography: George Scintilla • Editorial consultants: Jo Caruana assisted by Iggy Fenech • Design: Ramon Micallef

THE

BLUES GAZETTE

SINGING THE

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Classic and always in vogue, blue is a primary colour that adds a chic edge to any outfit.

Here, we picked out our favourite pieces of the season in rich, cool, muted and icy blues.

Shirt €39.95 Jacket €149.00

EDT €64.00

Roundneck €39.95

Wash Bag €49.00

Shirt €49.00

Shirt €39.00

Bowtie €19.00

BESPOKE

YOUR LOOK

Andy Warhol once said that ‘it would be terrific if everybody was alike’, but wouldn’t that make the whole world boring?

Belt €29.00

➊ Accessorising is the best way to break the mould, as it creates a unique and personalised look that reflects your preferred aesthetic. Just like you would with a painting, make sure you prep the canvas in anticipation for adding colours and details. A well-fitting suit should always be matched with a starched dress shirt and polished shoes.

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ISSUE Nº1 - OCTOBER 2015 3

Jacket €169.00

Bag €139.00 Round Neck €49.00

Shirt €49.00

Ties €29.00

Socks (3-pack) €10.00

Jacket €139.00

Scarf €29.00

Shoes €89.00

➋ Your next step is to add a tie that not only brings out the colour of the suit and the shirt you’re wearing, but that is also the right width and length for your body type.

Big and tall men should opt for a tie that is wider than average and that still reaches the belt; petite men should opt for average to skinny ties, which are also a bit shorter. As for the tie clip, it should always be positioned between the third and fourth buttons of your dress shirt.

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➌ ➍

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No suit is complete without a pocket square but, contrary to popular belief, this should never be in an identical pattern to your tie.

Instead, opt for one with similar colours, or a block-coloured one that complements the colours of your necktie. Tips on how to fold a pocked square can be found on our ‘Make The Fold.’ feature on page 21.

Scarves are not just for keeping warm; they also add depth to your look by creating a colourful and striking layer that automatically catches the eye. When pairing a scarf with your suit, keep two things in mind: the material shouldn’t look or feel bulky; and the colour should complement those of your tie and pocket square.

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Watch €80.00

THE

GAZETTE

4

WHY ARE WE

DIFF E

ISSUE Nº1 - OCTOBER 2015 5

ERENT? There is much more to Bortex than first meets the eye.

F

or over 50 years, we have been part of Malta’s textile

The jewel in the Bortex crown, however, remains the Maltese

industry; and three generations later, it’s quite safe to

born-and-bred, high-end men’s brand, Gagliardi, itself the brainchild

say that many Maltese families have, in one way or another,

of Bortex Group. This brand is intrinsically Maltese and, from its

interacted with our brand. Five decades ago, that may have been

aesthetic – marrying contemporary European design and age-old

an employee who worked with us at Bortex’s factories; while,

Mediterranean traditions – to its business structure and training,

today, their grandchildren are probably purchasing their first

Gagliardi champions Maltese ideals, business and people.

Gagliardi suit from the Bortex Fine Tailoring retail concept.

We believe, in fact, that our strength and ethos come

Gagliardi has allowed us to fly the Maltese flag in various locations across the European continent - as far afield as Russia and Sweden,

from this close relationship with our customers. Yet, while we

in fact. And that is what makes us different. We start from within and

have always valued tradition, from our earliest days, we also

then look to the outside world; keeping integrity and tradition alive

sought to bring innovation to this august, creative industry

whenever and however we can, while still working towards a brighter

As clothing manufacturers, we create clothes for some of the world’s most recognisable brands, including Ted Baker, Hackett, Versace, Duchamp, Hardy Amies, Thomas Pink, La Martina, Gieves & Hawkes, Barbour, Jack Wills and Reiss. Indeed, as garment technologists, our job is to turn a two-dimensional drawing on paper into three-dimensional, wearable garb. And, because we do this on a large scale, we can then pass on the benefits derived from economies of scale to you.

All this has given us the first-hand experience and knowhow needed for our fine tailoring retail model, which has seen us cultivate fruitful relationships with some of the world’s most famous mills, including Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna and Lanificio Flli.Cerruti and Loro Piana for fabrics.

We are driven to nurture and create the most complete menswear concept on the island. This pursuit of the most holistic brand mix coupled with an international and customer centric retail philosophy is testament to the core values of the company and something we strongly believe in. The latest additions see Ralph Lauren, Lacoste and Gant entering the fold.

future in which everyone will be clad in the finest and latest suits.

THE

GAZETTE

6

Coat €189.00 Suit €209.00 Waistcoat €59.00 Shirt €39.00 Tie €29.00 Pocket Square €14.00

ISSUE Nº1 - OCTOBER 2015 7

Jacket €69.00

THE

GAZETTE

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1 SHEARING Every suit starts its life as raw wool. But whether it’s luscious merino from New South Wales in Australia, the finest wool from the wilderness of Tasmania, or luxurious cashmere from the republic of Mongolia, all the materials used are certified as some of the best in the world.

As these materials are masterfully woven by the likes of Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna, Loro Piana and Lanificio Flli Cerruti access

SHEEP to them is limited, with only a handful of

producers being able to use them – and we are proud to be one of those producers.

SHOP

Your Bortex suit has clocked some serious miles before making it into your wardrobe.

TO

Every Bortex suit comes with the promise of excellent craftsmanship, ethically sourced materials, and fine quality tailoring. But, before it makes it into your wardrobe, the Bortex suit goes on an incredible adventure halfway round the world.

ISSUE Nº1 - OCTOBER 2015

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These fabrics will then go on to become suits, coats, trousers and many other types of garments.

What’s fascinating is that this process is as ancient as the concept of fabric, and the science behind it is as captivating as its history – particularly when considering that even legends like Leonardo Da Vinci played a crucial part in documenting and expanding it. As a company, we purchase over 500,000-metres of fabric per season for ourselves and our clients.

Categorising

SPINNING & WEAVING

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The raw wool then travels to Biella in Piedmont, Italy, where it is taken to mills for the fibers to be separated. The wool is initially spun into yarn and then graded according to its fineness.

Then, the weaving process begins and it is at this instance that we know how many plies the fabric will have – the more plies, the finer it is.

Bortex’s understanding of this process dates back 50 years, when the business was still in its infancy.

Our relationship with these mills has defined our

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business ethics, and our long-standing agreements stand testament to our commitment in procuring only the best materials for our garments.

SAMPLING

the weave that will

SELECTING & PRODUCING

best fit their vision for

Each of our clients then selects their

the upcoming season.

preferred fabrics and puts down their

Their designs, based

quantity and confirmed orders. Once these

on current trends from

have been agreed upon, the production of

international catwalks,

the garments kicks off in our laboratories

are then turned into

and factories, which are located in Tunisia,

highly-accurate,

Serbia, Bulgaria and the Far East. The

Our technical and creative designers then jet set to London, Paris and Milan to select

FLOOR wearable prototypes.

Selling

The new designs created here reach our shops and customers - in Europe and beyond - a

whole calendar year after the fabric is selected.

In the interim, the garments are kept in storage until the season for which they were created for dawns. During this period, our marketing team, photographers and stylists come together to shoot and market the new collection, while our concept stores, franchise partners and private label customers throughout our international network make way for the new garments to take centre stage.

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process starts in September with delivery taking place in January. This is done a year in advance, too, and the autumn/winter ‘16/’17 is now already in the design process.

THE

10

GAZETTE

FESTIVE

INSPIRATION Find the perfect gift for the gentleman in your life.

Troyer €129.00

Cufflinks €29.00

Wash Bag €49.00

Key Holder €19.00

Polo Shirt €39.00

Shirt €99.00

Scarf €29.00

Shoes €119.00

ISSUE Nº1 - OCTOBER 2015 11

YOUR BEST FOOT

FORWARD Step into the wonderful world of shoe care.

How to Polish Shoes:

STEP

➊

Wipe your shoes with a damp cloth to take off any superficial dirt and stains.

STEP

➋

Use a wet welt brush to clean the shoes’ welt strip.

STEP

➌

Apply polish using a circular motion.

Leave to dry.

STEP

➍

Buff shoes with polishing brush. For extra shine, hold the shoe between your knees and buff the toe with a lint-free cloth.

AT A GLANCE: Shoetrees are the most underestimated shoe accessories ever created. A good pair will draw out moisture from your leather shoes while keeping them in pristine shape.

Scarf €29.00

Suede is unlike any other material, as scuffs cannot be polished away.

Always use spray-on waterproofing on your new suede shoes, and use a suede eraser to remove small imperfections.

A good cobbler is your shoes’ best friend.

Repair work is essential for a good pair of shoes, and resoling and reheeling them could extend their lifespan by many years.

QUICK

TIP

Bowtie €19.00 Socks €5.00

Stuff wet shoes with newspapers and allow them to dry naturally; this will ensure the leather doesn’t crack.

THE

GAZETTE

12

SUIT CONSERVATION

How to keep your suit in mint condition.

Brushing

your suit gets rid of fluff, dirt and hairs that get entwined within the fabric during the daily grind.

Investing in a good clothes brush, made from synthetic or real animal hair, is pivotal for this job, as other brushes, such as shoe ones, are too coarse and will damage the anatomy of the material.

Hanging

your suit properly will ensure gravity doesn’t wreak havoc on it. The wire hangers sometimes sent from the dry-cleaner’s are great for transporting, but do put your expensive suit on a solid wood hanger as soon as you can. The width of the hanger is also an important feature many forget to consider. Your blazer should always fit snuggly against the hanger, with the rounded shoulder flairs that mimic the natural shape of the body. Pants should be stored on the felted part of the wooden hanger or a dedicated trousers hanger.

Protecting your suit

when you’re not using it or when travelling is essential. Garment bags, such as the one your Bortex suits came in, offer protection and ventilation, allowing your suit to breathe and reducing the risk of it getting mouldy or misty. Plastic covers, such as the ones dry-cleaners use, can be your suit’s worst enemy, however. Over time, these emit fumes that can weaken the suit’s fibres and mute their colour.

Dry-Cleaning

your suit is an important step in keeping it clean and odourless; yet many people take their suit to be dry-cleaned way too often.

Suits should only be thoroughly cleaned when dirt and odours start building up, and even then you should be careful. The wrong kind of cleaning can dim the colour of the fabric or even cause bobbles to appear. That’s why we always tell our customers to bring their suits to us, as our trusted and certified cleaners have the right equipment for the job.

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Jacket €169.00 Trouser €79.00 Shirt €29.00 Tie €29.00 Pocket Square €14.00

THE

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THE BORTE GAZETTE

Created here on the island, Gagliardi

Since it launched in France some 80 years

Through its casual-yet-refined style,

is the brainchild of the Bortex clan.

ago, Lacoste has become one of the world’s

GANT has captured and defined

The brand personifies the timeless

most recognisable and coveted brands.

many a generation. While it was

appeal of Saville Row but adds a

Today the company creates everything

originally founded in New Haven,

distinctive Mediterranean flair

from footwear to perfume, but it’s their

USA, the brand is now owned by Swiss

and a penchant for rich colour.

polo shirts that have achieved cult status.

holding company, Maus Frères.

EX BRANDS

ISSUE Nº1 - OCTOBER 2015

Cerruti & Loro Piana is an Italian fashion institution

Lanificio Ermengildo Zegna, Lanificio Flli is

Lauren Corporation, Polo Ralph Lauren

that was founded in 1881 by Antonio Cerruti in

a family-owned, luxury, Italian fashion house

has garnered a following akin to those

Biella, Piedmont – a town famed for its heritage in

that has stood the test of time through hard

of the world’s biggest designers. Their

weaving, high-quality wool and fabric production.

work and vision. The company was founded

polo shirts, easily recognisable by the

Over the past 134 years, Cerruti has grown to become

back in 1910 in Trivero and, within 45 years,

polo player, are understatedly stylish.

an all-encompassing fashion house, now creating

the Zegna empire already had 1,400 workers.

suits, casualwear, leather goods, jewellery, writing

Today, over 550 monobrand shops around

instruments and accessories for the global market.

the world fly the flag of the Zegna family.

As the flagship brand of the Ralph

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THE

GAZETTE

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Coat €185.00 Dress €65.00 Bag €99.00

TRENDS IN

Dress €65.00

WOMEN’S TAILORING

When it comes to women’s tailoring, a beautiful classic look never goes out of style. This striking ladies’ suit is cut for a stylish and elegant look.

Jacket €99.00 Blouse €45.00

Blouse €45.00

ISSUE Nº1 - OCTOBER 2015

When it comes to women’s tailoring, a beautiful classic look never goes out of style.

This striking ladies’ suit is cut for a stylish and elegant look. When it comes to women’s tailoring, a beautiful classic look never goes out of style. This striking ladies’ suit is cut for a stylish and elegant look. When it comes to women’s tailoring, a beautiful classic look never goes out of style. This striking ladies’ suit is cut for a stylish and elegant look. When it comes to women’s tailoring, a beautiful classic look never goes out of style.

This striking ladies’ suit is cut for a stylish and elegant look. When it comes to women’s tailoring, a beautiful classic look never goes out of style. This striking ladies’ suit is cut for a stylish and elegant look. When it comes to women’s tailoring, a beautiful classic look never goes out of style. This striking ladies’ suit is cut for a stylish and elegant look. When it comes to women’s tailoring, a beautiful classic look never goes out of style. This striking ladies’ suit is cut for a stylish and elegant look. When it comes to women’s tailoring, a beautiful classic look never goes out of style.

This striking ladies’ suit is cut for a stylish and elegant look. When it comes to women’s tailoring, a beautiful classic look never goes out of style. This striking ladies’ suit is cut for a stylish and elegant look. When it comes to women’s tailoring, a beautiful classic look never goes out of style. This striking ladies’ suit is cut for a stylish and elegant look.

The Fit

Form-fitting but comfortable, you will feel both smart and at ease in this season’s fit. The deep v-neck will pair beautifully with a romantic blouse or warm rollneck cashmere jumper, helping you to effortlessly go from office to evening. .

The Fabric

Combining alluring softness

and cutting-edge fashionable detailing, the fine wool of

this perfectly-tailored suit

will leave you feeling elegant and dressed for anything.

Jacket €89.00 Skirt €55.00

Detailing

As this suit shows, a square pocket adds sharp, clear

edginess. It would be equally

at home in the boardroom as it would at after-hours cocktails or a lunch with friends. The

single button will pull you in at the waist making the most of

your shape, while even the eye-

catching detailing in the button

is evocative of chic autumn style.

Colour

Rich and alluring, wine is the

colour of the season. It will take you from autumn through to spring, and pairs beautifully with hues

including black, navy and grey.

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THE

GAZETTE

18

Jacket €169.00 Trousers €49.00 Shirt €49.00 V-Neck €49.00 Pocket Square €14.00 Shoes €119.00

ISSUE Nº1 - OCTOBER 2015 19

Jacket €139.00 Trousers €49.00 Shirt €39.00 V-Neck €49.00 Tie €29.00 Pocket Square €14.00 Scarf €29.00 Travel Bag €189.00

THE

GAZETTE

20

BELLA

LA

This autumn/winter, the Gagliardi collections hint at long evening walks over the Rialto Bridge, with the Gran Canal as a backdrop. This is beautiful Venice.

T

his season, we are dressing the Gagliardi gentleman with typical Venetian

elegance and reserve – yet never forgetting that touch of audacious savoir faire.

Our collections are inspired by the colours and personality of this intricate city of love: its narrow alleyways and quiet canals, the hues of its ancient walls, and the erudite gondolas that meander through its waterways.

Classic to a fault but with a distinctly modern twist, the Gagliardi man looks forward to a winter wardrobe that undoubtedly brings dress sense to the fore, every day of the week.

ISSUE Nº1 - OCTOBER 2015 21

MAKE THE

FOLD No accessory adds panache to a suit like a pocket square does.

The Casual Three Tip Fold

➊ Lay your pocket square flat with points facing north, south, east and west – essentially creating a diamond shape.

➋ Bring the bottom point to the top point into the shape of a triangle.

➌ Bring the right corner towards

VITA! The Gagliardi City Capsule

The Gagliardi Weekend Capsule

The Gagliardi Eveningwear Capsule

Designed for the

Do you dream of the

Flamboyant, opulent and chic – this

discerning gent who

magic of Venice? We

is an eveningwear collection for

exudes confidence and

did too – which is

a truly stylish gentleman. It will

power, this collection

exactly why we created

immerse you in rich, bold colours

is all about statement

this collection to

and nautical-inspired tailoring with

tailoring. Classic

encapsulate the wonder

a luxurious twist. It will prepare you

pieces are a mainstay,

of Venetian architecture,

for the most lavish life imaginable.

while it embraces new

its gondolas, canals

heights of expression

and memories of the

in fabrics, texture,

beautiful Baroque.

colours and styling.

Our Weekend Capsule

the left corner, and then the left corner to the right-point of the new fold you’ve just created.

➍ Fold horizontally, stopping where the top corner starts.

The Elegant Fold

➊

Lay your pocket square flat on a surface; pinch the middle of the fabric and lift.

Allow the folds to come in naturally.

➋

Using your thumb and index finger, flute it and gracefully bend over the bottom.

The Business-Like Fold

➊

Lay your pocket square flat and fold vertically.

➋

Fold horizontally leaving one inch from the top.

➌

Fold again in thirds, place in your suit pocket.

is an invitation into comfort and warmth, set against pantones that truly evoke the iconic Venetian landscape.

The Eccentric Fold

➊

Same as The Traditional fold, but the bottom point should be brought to the side of the top point, creating a two-pointed triangle.

➋

Bring the right corner towards the left corner, and then the left corner to the right-point of the new fold you’ve just created.

➌

Fold horizontally, stopping where the twopointed corner starts.

THE

GAZETTE

22

THE ART

ISSUE Nº1 - OCTOBER 2015 23

Jacket €189.00 • Trousers €59.00 • Shirt €29.00 Tie €29.00 • Pocket Square €14.00 Scarf €29.00 • Shoes €179.00 • Belt €29.00 Cufflinks €29.00 • Bag €149.00

Welcome to the world of the Gagliardi shop – a space we’ve created for our clients to really get to know the ethos and style of our brand.

This issue of the Bortex Gazette, we visited our flagship shop here in Malta to discover the thought processes behind the way we design our international stores.

RETAIL

OF

A

t Gagliardi we personify the timeless appeal of Savile Row but add distinctive

Mediterranean flair and a penchant for rich colour.

This is reflected in our stores. From Ireland to Sweden and Russia to Malta, our shops are designed to reflect the story of our founder: the inimitable Salvatore.

Salvatore’s lifestyle sits at the crux of everything we do. His library is the heart of our stores – a beautiful centrepiece that reflects the stories he has read, the stories he has told, and the many stories embodied by every Gagliardi garment.

Next time you’re with us you may notice the elements selected by Salvatore himself. His beloved jazz and blues playing in background; his favourite colours of blue, ivory, yellow and gold adorning the space; and the genuine family portraits from the 1920s and 1930s, portraits of Grand Masters, as well as reproductions and engravings by Anton Francesco Lucini on the Great Siege of Malta that highlight important moments in his life.

We believe that if our space embodies that vibrant lifestyle that Salvatore enjoys, then it will reflect the lifestyle relished by our discerning clients too.

Suit €229.00 Shirt €29.00 Tie €29.00 Pocket Square €14.00 Cable Round Neck €59.00 Scarf €29.00 Shoes €139.00 Belt €29.00 Cufflinks €29.00

THE

GAZETTE

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Suit €209.00 Shirt €29.00 Tie €29.00 Pocket Square €14.00

Valletta Merchants Street 2122 8419 | SLIEMA The Plaza Centre 2134 1466 SLIEMA Tower Road 2133 8142 | MARSA Industrial Estate 2125 2184 MOSTA Constitution Street 2142 0524 | BAYSTREET Level 2 2137 0804 THE DUKE Victoria, Gozo 2155 6260 | PJAZZA TIGNÉ Tigné Point 2131 0947

www.gagliardi.eu