BECOMING A WARRIOR Surrender, reconnect and stand fiercely with love
GO FOR YOUR
A PIECE OF THE PIAZZA
Burnaby’s Italian village takes shape at Bassano
SOUL Reverence and magic in Haida Gwaii
Luxury Automotive Brands
The collision center reimagined Beyond imagination
A class of its own
At No.1 Collision Group, we specialize in providing a repair experience that is unlike any other in North America. From the Italian leather furnishings that adorn our offices to the bespoke architecture of our expansive facilities, we’ve meticulously curated each of our collision centers to embody the essence of the luxury vehicles that reside within them.
With certifications from prestigious manufacturers such as McLaren, Porsche, BMW, and Tesla, our expert technicians are equipped with the latest in automotive technology to ensure that your luxury automobile is fully restored to its original grandeur. Add to this an industry-leading customer service, uniquely provided by our team of client experience specialists, and together it equals an experience that is entirely bespoke to the collision repair industry.
BOULEVARD GROUP
Mario Gedicke
250-891-5627
info@blvdmag.ca
MANAGING EDITOR
Susan Lundy
ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Lia Crowe
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Jennifer Blyth
Natalie Bruckner
Lia Crowe
Susan Lundy
Lisa Manfield
Kaisha Scofield
Ellie Shortt
Ann Tiplady
DESIGNERS
Lily Chan
Nel Pallay
Tammy Robinson
Crea Zhang
ADVERTISING SALES
Mario Gedicke
Vicki Clark
Carien Rennie
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Lia Crowe
ILLUSTRATION
Sierra Lundy
DISTRIBUTION
Marilou Pasion
Marilou@blackpress.ca
604-542-7411
magical places
It must have been 15 years ago that my husband Bruce and I drove off the ferry onto Cormorant Island, making our first visit to the village of Alert Bay, located in traditional Kwakwakaʼwakw territory, on the northeast side of Vancouver Island. Since then, we have travelled to Alert Bay on several occasions and each time magic unfolds.
On our first visit, the island’s massive red-brick residential school still dominated the waterfront, and we drove in its direction, parking and exploring the exterior of what was a truly foreboding structure. Eventually, we were beckoned inside by an Indigenous carver, who had transformed a downstairs room into a studio. He walked us through his craft, showing us his carving techniques and weaving stories about his masks that hung on the walls. It was ironic, this explosion of art and culture in the basement of a building that had housed so much despair. It felt otherworldly.
Nearby, we visited the tallest totem in the world, stunned that it wasn’t roped off and we could stand next to it, craning our necks skyward and touching its weathered surface with our fingertips. Once, as we drove down a hill, we rounded a corner and a humpback whale breached directly in front of us. Later that day, we were introduced to the chief of the Namgis First Nation, who invited us to a totem raising, followed by a potlatch in the Namgis’ traditional big house.
We have camped beachside in a deserted campground on Cormorant Island, walked lush forest trails, and come close to circumnavigating the entire island on our many shoreline hikes.
I recalled these stories of Alert Bay as this past spring Bruce and I explored another magical spot, Haida Gwaii, and then spent our 10th wedding anniversary in a place of personal magic—Point No Point Resort, a collection of rustic cabins near Sooke. Cell phones rarely work at Point No Point, and days are spent hiking nearby beaches and exploring groves of old-growth trees. This is where about a dozen years ago we decided, “We should get married!”
This issue of Boulevard has been built around a theme of “personal growth”—a moving target for most of us, since personal growth is something that needs constant nurturing. Self-care. Mindful living. Gratitude. Fostering lasting relationships. Stepping outside of the box. But in addition to participating in the act of personal growth, one needs to take the time to reflect on it. And the best spots to do this are magical places where you can exhale and unclutter your mind.
When I think of such places, my thoughts always go to nature; areas where days unfold hiking a shoreline or forested trail, and evenings are spent quietly watching the glowing embers of a campfire. Spots where time is guided by the rising and setting of the sun—not a watch.
My story about Haida Gwaii—found in this edition of Boulevard—is called “Go for your soul” because here you can slow down, exhale and reconnect with yourself. As it happened, it was also the perfect spot for us to travel in our 10thanniversary year.
For our wedding, we commissioned a Kwakwakaʼwakw artist from Alert Bay to create our wedding bands. The chance to mark 10 years with rings from Haida Gwaii seemed serendipitous, and it didn’t take long for Bruce to find a thick silver orca ring at a little gem store near our accommodation. But despite actively searching, I just couldn’t find the right ring for me.
As we awaited our flight home inside the tiny airport at Masset, I saw a face that had become familiar over the course of our time on Haida Gwaii. Robert Davidson—a renowned Haida artist and a leading figure in the renaissance of Haida art and culture—was chatting with a clerk in what I suddenly realized was an outlet store of the gem shop where Bruce found his ring.
At the sight of such an auspicious Haida figure, I felt an invisible tug draw me into that tiny jewellery store…and straight to a beautiful silver raven ring that fit me in every way possible.
It was a magical moment in a magical place.
Susan Lundy Managing Editor
Susan Lundy is a former journalist who now works as an editor, author and freelance writer. Her latest book on humour columns, Home on the Strange, was published in 2021 via Heritage House Publishing.
PHOTO BY LIA CROWE
life.style.etc.
CLEE VARON, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT, ICONIC WINERIES OF BC WORDS SUSAN LUNDY X PHOTOGRAPHY LIA CROWE
WHERE WERE YOU BORN AND WHERE DID YOU GROW UP?
I was born and raised in Brantford, Ontario. In my early 20s I spent a year in London, England and then moved to Alberta, where I spent 24 years living in the Canadian Rockies.
WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR CAREER PATH?
My career began in social work, focusing on child welfare, but my passion for the hospitality industry led me to pivot and fully immerse myself in that field. This included working as part of the inaugural team for Canadian Pacific Hotels & Resorts’ Kananaskis Lodge and Hotel Kananaskis, which played host to the Winter Olympics and the G8 Summit. I transitioned to the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, a venue renowned for hosting the season’s first World Cup downhill races. My role as host to international teams spanned eight seasons. Eventually, I relocated to Kelowna, inspired by my son’s path, and transitioned to the wine industry, where I’ve taken on a strategic role with Iconic Wineries of BC and the Mark Anthony Group, leveraging my extensive experience in luxury hospitality and event management to drive profitability and strategic initiatives.
WHAT IS THE ONE ASPECT OF YOUR WORK THAT REALLY GETS YOU FIRED UP?
As a dedicated member of the community with a deep-seated passion for fostering lasting relationships, I find immense joy in creating unforgettable memories. At Iconic Wineries, I am privileged to work with an amazing array of luxury brands that enable me to turn our clients’ dreams into reality. Moreover, the opportunity to support and give back to the Okanagan community is an aspect of my role that I hold dear. It’s not just about the wine—it’s about weaving the fabric of community and enhancing the lives of those we serve.
WHAT ARE YOU PASSIONATE ABOUT OUTSIDE OF WORK?
My two sons are the centre of my universe, and cherishing every moment with them is my utmost priority. I’m a firm believer in the benefits of a healthy diet and take joy in preparing nutritious meals. My commitment to fitness is unwavering, complemented by my passion for outdoor activities like hiking, biking and downhill skiing.
WHAT’S
THE BEST LIFE LESSON YOU’VE LEARNED IN THE LAST FIVE YEARS?
Taking a moment to stop and smell the roses is essential. It’s important to take time for oneself. The addition of an Australian shepherd puppy to my life has profoundly altered my perspective, offering a new lens through which I view the world. This reminds me to appreciate the simple joys and discoveries that each day brings.
WHICH OF YOUR INNATE QUALITIES OR DAILY PRACTICES HAS LED TO YOUR SUCCESS?
My passion for fostering meaningful connections and my relentless drive to excel in my endeavours are the cornerstones of my professional ethos. Cultivating robust relationships with clients is paramount, as it generates the loyalty and trust that I diligently seek to establish daily. Descriptors such as “highly energetic,” “meticulously organized,” and “adept at multitasking” enable me to fulfill my personal and professional aspirations.
WHAT IS GOOD STYLE TO YOU?
Being yourself. Fashion has always been my passion, and I take pride in dressing impeccably for every occasion. It’s my belief that a great sense of style not only enhances appearance but also boosts confidence.
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE?
My style varies with the occasion, embodying a simple yet robust aesthetic. It leans towards a relaxed, country-inspired look that’s effortlessly stylish and comfortable. This approach to fashion reflects a blend of practicality and a strong sense of personal identity.
FASHION & BEAUTY
All-time favourite piece: Jeans and white T-shirt.
Favourite pair of shoes: Any A.S.98 boots or shoes.
Favourite day-bag: Lululemon crossbody bag.
Favourite work tool: Dell laptop and home office.
Favourite jewellery piece or designer: David Yurman.
Fashion obsession: Winter layering and sweaters.
Necessary indulgence for either fashion or beauty: Fashion—shoes and jackets; beauty—mascara.
Scent: Anais Anais Cacharel.
STYLE INSPIRATIONS & LIFE
Style icon: Linda Evangelista and Princess Diana. Favourite fashion designer or brand: Free People, InWear, French Connection.
Favourite musician: I have a few, but Van Morrison, Rolling Stones, Eagles, Fleetwood Mac would be the first that come to mind.
Album on current rotation: Conner Smith; Adam Doleac.
Film or TV show that inspires your style or that you just love the style of: Yellowstone, all the way; TV show hands down is The Young & The Restless—my all-time daily release.
Favourite cocktail or wine: Favourite cocktail, Dillon’s Gin; favourite wine, Oculus.
Favourite flower: Gladiolus.
One thing that consistently lifts your spirits during hard times: Family, friends and my home.
READING MATERIAL
Fave magazine: Boulevard Magazine, locally, Nuvo, House & Home, Alive
Last great reads: Parable of a Broken Heart, by Steph Leis; Finding Freedom: Harry and Meghan and the Making of a Modern Royal Family, by Omid Scobie; From This Moment On, by Shaina Twain
Book currently reading: Eat Like a Legend, by Dan Churchill, and Brad Pattison’s Puppy Book.
There is a near universal memory of playing sports or participating in something active as a kid. Maybe you have nostalgia around the crush of new cleats on soccer turf or the smell of your hockey gear mid-season. For me, it was dance classes at the dance studio downtown. I remember the sound of creaking wood floors and the smell of new ballet shoes.
Aside from attending school, playing sports is the second most universal activity that is experienced primarily by children, only to be discontinued in adulthood. In fact, more than 70 per cent of kids drop out of sports by the time they’re 13 to 15. It’s that remaining 30 per cent of kids that continue to play after their teens that make up most of the people who continue to play sports into adulthood.
As adults, we do a decent enough job of maintaining an active lifestyle, but typically we limit it to solo activities, like running, gym training, cycling, et cetera. While these are all excellent ways to maintain fitness and health, they lack the great benefits of sports-specific movement and team membership. Team sports build endurance, unpredictable movement, camaraderie, healthy competition, grit and commitment in ways that solo sports often lack. One of the most unexpected benefits of team sports is the boost it offers to mental health, in the form of stress relief, community building, confidence enhancement and social emotional support.
It’s clear that playing sports is beneficial but starting a new sport as an adult is tough, and can be an overwhelming endeavour. We adults can struggle to admit when we feel challenged, especially when it involves new physical and social adaptations. Not to mention, we must contend with the usual fears of judgment and inclusion that we had to endure as kids, while also having to worry about injury, fitness levels and time commitments.
The best way to get over barriers is to take the first step. In this case, the first step is figuring out what you’re interested in and then signing up for a trial class or session. There are introductory or information sessions for nearly every sport, including some programs like adult recess that offer a variety of activities and movement styles.
Starting off with a mini commitment, like a beginner session, can be a great stepping stone toward joining a full program. Once you have decided on what sport you would like to join, you can face other potential barriers head on to avoid obstacles arising post- commitment. Some examples of barriers for adults are: fear of judgment, injury, lack of performance, fitness levels, cost, and time or family commitments.
Something we must contend with more as adults than we did as children is the likelihood of injury. Unfortunately, aging bodies need to be looked after, so it is important to acknowledge we won’t bounce back from as injury as quickly as we used to. This can be mitigated by doing our best to take it easy and know that we aren’t expected to perform as we would when we were kids. Your body is older and so are the bodies of your teammates—and that’s okay.
Caring for injury is crucial and can be hastened by having a great support team. Know who the best physiotherapists, massage therapists and athletic therapists are in your area. Always keep Epsom salts on hand and consider investing in a
foam roller. Be sure to familiarize yourself with effective warm-ups, stretches and cool-downs and perform them liberally. Finally, don’t let injuries linger. If a mild injury doesn’t feel better after 24 hours, seek out professional help from a doctor and/or those listed above. If you have a major injury, get it treated right away.
Performance is important and in order to take sport even semiseriously, you want to think like an athlete, which means fuelling like one. Even weekend warriors need to ensure that they are eating enough nutrient-dense foods, like fruits, veggies and quality proteins with every meal.
Ensure you are also committing to excellent hydration practices. This means drinking water consistently throughout the day and adding electrolytes, especially when sweating. Maintaining hydration will help prevent injury, cramping and fatigue, while improving energy levels, mental clarity and nutrient absorption. Consider adding some magnesium for muscle support, calcium for bone health and amino acids to help tissue repair.
Contending with the decrease in fitness levels can be challenging. Just know that with regular movement, your body will adapt and improve with time. If you find you are really enjoying your sport, try to add in some stretching and strength training on your off days and avoid sedentary rest days. Every day should include some form of movement, be it walking or cycling or yoga. Even a gruelling training day should be followed by movement the following day; humans are not meant to be sedentary.
Time commitments and other life commitments are likely to be the most challenging to navigate. Try to remember that movement is self-care. Intentional movement will never leave you feeling worse than when you started. Movement is essential to life and should be prioritized over a lot of other activities. Movement that makes you feel healthy and improves your wellbeing should be encouraged by those who care about you. If joining a soccer team that plays once a week makes you feel amazing, then it’s worth having take-out food on those nights or putting off grocery shopping for one more day.
If family and work priorities are an overwhelming issue, try to join a sport that takes this into consideration. Many adult leagues have schedules built to accommodate families. For example, many senior hockey teams play later in the evening, allowing players to attend after kids are put to bed, and some cycling groups train at dawn, ending with enough time to get ready for work.
The final and often least navigable barrier is cost, and depending on the sport, things can get pricey. However, equipment can be purchased second hand or even borrowed. Some sports require very little gear or have gear that is included. Almost every sports league will also have bursaries and financial assistance programs for those who need it. Sports programs will often go out of their way to help find solutions that will keep players playing. It can be tough to ask for help but one of the benefits of being part of a team is having people looking out for you.
Ultimately, belonging to a sport, as an adult, is much like playing as a kid, except perhaps being signed up by your mom and having your dad as the coach. Sports offer community, improve health, support physical adaptability and cognitive function, promote longevity, allow for teamwork, improve mental health—and more. If we can master our self-doubt enough to take that first step, the rest is easy. Now get out there and play ball!
WAYS TO GET STARTED IN BC
Victoria: Victoria Sport and Social Club: victoria.sportandsocialclub.ca
Kelowna: Urban Rec Kelowna: okanagan.urbanrec.ca/
Central Island: Comox Valley Sports: comoxvalleysports.ca
Vancouver: Urban Rec Vancouver: vancouver.urbanrec.ca
A place to exhale
The perfect mix of experience and relaxation at Naturally Pacific Resort
WORDS JENNIFER BLYTH
The vacations that stand out in my mind are those with a balance of opportunities to see, savour and experience a place, alongside a healthy dose of relaxation.
However, it wasn’t until I was immersed in Vancouver Island’s newest luxury destination—Naturally Pacific Resort in Campbell River—that this realization crossed my mind. My mid-week getaway here culminated in the perfect mix of experience and relaxation. It offered a big exhale.
Campbell River is a community of about 36,000 people on the east coast of northern Vancouver Island, and a jump-
ing-off point for all manner of outdoor adventures. And with the addition of the sleek new Naturally Pacific Resort, it’s also an amazing place to relax and rejuvenate.
Located about 3.5 hours north from Victoria, or an hour and 45 minutes from Nanaimo, the 100-room resort opened last May at the 18-hole Campbell River Golf Club, designed by Graham Cooke. Formerly the Sequoia Springs Golf Course, the 6,100-yard, resort-style course has gorgeous rolling fairways, airy spaces, water features and more than 200 trees. A complete rebuild in 2017 has replaced everything from tee to green—“Every blade of grass is new,” says resort owner Amanda Mailman.
Amanda had a direct hand in both the vision and design of the pet-friendly resort, which was developed by her family, the Mailmans, who have been in Campbell River for four generations. The resort’s design embraces the best of West Coast living: weighty timbers beckon visitors inside to a sophisticated interior with nods to the community’s
location between forest and sea.
Spacious, superbly comfortable rooms, with rounded corners and curves echoing throughout the interior design, overlook either the golf course or the ocean and mountains beyond the city. There’s ample space to sit, relax and enjoy a cosy sleep on the pillow-top bed.
In what has quickly become a popular spot for weddings and special events, the outdoor area around the hotel boasts a variety of beautifully lit and landscaped spaces, adjacent to the pool, hot tub and patio area.
After settling in and soaking in the view from our balcony, my partner, Geoff, and I headed downstairs to the elegant dining room at Carve Kitchen + Meatery, described as a modern interpretation of a classic North American steakhouse. Executive chef Ryan Watson has created a menu highlighting quality, sustainably sourced meats crafted with local vegetables, herbs and other ingredients into delectable comfort food. Along with produce provided by local farmers, a 10,000-square-foot, on-site garden
and orchard offer a variety of fresh ingredients, while a small apiary provides honey for signature drinks and dressings.
The room itself is a surprise with a lush green living wall and more rounded corners and curves. The menu offers an array of possibilities, including the expected steakhouse dishes, but vegetarian and vegan options as well. I opted for the glazed short rib—succulent and flavourful with grainy mustard jus, served with pea puree, roasted vegetables and scrumptious potato croquette. Geoff selected from that week’s prix fixe menu—a Caesar salad appetizer, striploin steak with mouth-watering tallow-whipped potatoes and roasted vegetables, and a perfectly shareable crème brûlée for dessert.
Beyond its steakhouse offerings, Carve also serves a full breakfast and lunch. Fresh, hot coffee was just the thing before starting out the day with a hearty eggs Benedict (Geoff) and locally baked sourdough toast, sausage and potatoes (me).
We soaked up the sun with a stroll around the grounds before visiting the resort’s Immersion Spa & Wellness—and what truly is the ultimate combination of experience and relaxation: a private hour in the mineral pool, where the silky waters washed away any residual cares from the previous day’s travels.
This spacious heated pool features a blend of naturally sourced minerals, including magnesium, sodium and potassium, to soothe sore muscles and revitalize the skin.
Between warm-water soaks in this welcoming space, we sampled the trio of adjacent Italian-made “experience showers,” which change colours as they combine chromotherapy, aquatherapy, aromatherapy and sound. With settings ranging from a cool mist to a warm rain or a muscle-relaxing stream, and options designed for relaxation or energy, the showers are a unique counterpoint to the mineral pool, and a highly recommended pairing.
Satiated and relaxed, it was time to venture out of the resort (however begrudgingly, at first) to experience the North Island community.
Long home to Liǧʷiɫdax̌ʷ people, the community that is now Campbell River later drew the attention of others for its forest resources and rich fish stocks. In the late 19th century, it became one of the province’s first tourism destinations, and later earned the title “Salmon Capital of the World,” as wealthy overseas visitors relied on knowledgeable Indigenous guides to navigate local waters in hopes of hooking the famed tyee.
While the industry has changed since those early years, sport fishing remains a key element of local tourism and a popular pastime for locals. After a stop at the River Sportsman Outdoor Store for a few supplies, we headed to Campbell River’s iconic 600-foot-long Discovery Pier, an ideal spot for fishing or a stroll and an ice cream, while soaking in the views of Discovery Passage.
The pier extends 150 feet from shore and, in addition to fishing, is a popular spot for catching the sunset or spotting passing whales and dolphins. While we brought our own rods, a seasonal concession stand offers rod and tackle rentals, while rod holders, bait stands and cleaning tables are found along the pier.
It was a gorgeous early fall day, but the tides weren’t with us and the lone salmon we hooked escaped with a twist, a splash and a flick of the tail.
With a fish tale but no fish, it was time to explore one of the seaside city’s must-visit destinations: the locally owned Beach Fire Brewing, a craft brewery serving flavourful beers, delicious food and good company. I enjoyed perfectly crispy halibut, accompanied by delicious duck-fat-fried potatoes (so much better than the omnipresent fries!) and a tasting flight.
We soaked up the sun with a stroll around the grounds before visiting the resort’s Immersion Spa + Wellness.
Geoff’s burger was juicy and cheesy, enjoyed with the Super Trendy Hazy IPA.
Returning to the resort, it was time to visit Velocity, a lounge and driving range, featuring cutting-edge technology from Toptracer. In our private bay, complete with comfy-couch seating and table service for food and beverages, we took turns with the house clubs and automated ball dispenser, tracking our swings, distance and arc. The group next to us brought their own clubs and had fun with the option to virtually play courses like the legendary St. Andrews Links in Scotland.
We finished the night chatting with the friendly team at the bar, sipping Caesars before strolling back to our room via the patio where the firepit beckoned with a cosy, relaxing glow. We settled in for the night, reflecting on the day’s perfect mix of experience and healthy doses of relaxation.
For more information or to book online, visit at naturallypacific.ca or call 1-866-910-4567.
Jens Moesker brings vision and heart to the Fairmont Pacific Rim’s iconic hospitality
NATALIE BRUCKNER X PHOTOGRAPHY LIA CROWE
WORDS
For those who have had the pleasure of experiencing the Fairmont Pacific Rim in Vancouver, it’s clear this isn’t just another luxury hotel. With its striking architecture, unparalleled views and Forbes Five-Star and AAA Five Diamond ratings, it exemplifies modern elegance and unrivaled service.
But what truly sets it apart is the vision behind it—a vision that has trickled into every corner of the hotel many of us know and love.
Enter Jens Moesker, regional vice president and general manager at the Fairmont Pacific Rim; his leadership has taken the hotel to new heights, blending innovation with a deep commitment to hospitality and people. Under his guidance, the Fairmont Pacific Rim has become a true reflection of its surroundings.
“The magic is created when there’s a symbiotic alignment between ownership and the operator—this allows for creativity to flourish,” says Jens.
From creating personalized experiences to prioritizing sustainability and wellness, Jens has transformed the hotel into a living, breathing expression of what today’s luxury travellers truly desire: connection, comfort and a sense of place.
Jens joined the Fairmont Pacific Rim team in 2018, bringing with him over three decades of hospitality experience— something that’s always been in his DNA. His childhood was a passport to the world. It shaped his character in ways that would later define his career. Growing up in a whirlwind of travel—first in Bangladesh, then across Africa, the Middle East and Europe—Jens experienced a truly global upbringing.
“It’s shaped how I see the world,” he reflects, crediting those early years with sparking his love for exploring new cultures and immersing himself fully wherever life took him.
Jens admits his path to the top wasn’t conventional.
“I started as an expat, working in Asia and the Middle East, before transitioning to a Western environment,” he says.
Initially, he started to train as a chef in Germany, but Jens realized his heart wasn’t in the kitchen. Instead, he thrived as a maître d’, where his knack for operations and his people skills took centre stage. From there, he climbed the ranks, though his hands-on approach remains unchanged.
“I still see myself as that maître d’,” he laughs, noting that he often jumps in to help with everything from housekeeping to restaurant operations.
After working five years as the general manager at ShangriLa Tokyo, he moved to Toronto to immerse himself in
Western hospitality. Eventually bringing this philosophy to Vancouver was a challenge Jens embraced.
Over the years, Jens has come to see hospitality as a kind of theatre—an art form that requires constant observation and an understanding of people’s needs.
“You’re reading people and personalities, figuring out how much engagement they want,” he says. “Privately, I’m quite introverted, but my role allows me to engage as much or as little as the guests let me.”
He admits there’s something magical about executing a perfect service experience.
“Whether it’s a banquet or a restaurant dinner, it’s like a symphony,” he explains. “Everyone plays their part—from the kitchen to the stewards to the servers. When it all comes together, it’s a beautiful harmony.”
Over the years, Jens has witnessed the hospitality industry evolve from a focus on cookie-cutter hotels to unique, experience-driven destinations.
“There was a time when all hotels looked the same,” he says. “Disruptors like Ian Schrager changed that, making hotels about emotions and individuality. Now, guests choose places that reflect who they are, not just where they need to be.”
For Jens, this shift means staying curious.
“I travel to observe everything—from linens to vibe. It’s not about gimmicks—it’s about real human connections,” he says. “Simple moments, like remembering a cappuccino order, are what make an experience meaningful.”
A lot of Jens’ insights stem from his ability to observe the world around him. The idea for the Fairmont Pacific Rim’s The Nordic Spa experience, for example, stemmed from a quiet moment while staying at the hotel with his wife, Kristine, during renovations at their home. Seeing guests braving the rain to enjoy the outdoor pool, he was struck by how people crave the outdoors, no matter the weather. That moment sparked the transformation of the hotel’s sixth-floor pool deck into a seasonal retreat with a hot tub, cold plunge baths, cedar plank sauna and sheltered spaces.
The Fairmont Pacific Rim is more than a hotel to Jens and his staff—it’s part of Vancouver’s soul. “Our DNA is art, music and fashion. It just so happens that we have 367 rooms above us. The Lobby Lounge is Vancouver’s living room. This place has heart,” he says.
That heart beats strongest through his team, whose dedication shines even on the busiest days, he adds.
“I recently saw a doorperson juggle valet requests, make small talk and maintain a warm atmosphere—all at once. Moments like that make me proud.”
It’s this unwavering commitment, combined with Vancouver’s magic—its natural beauty, diversity and lifestyle—that has kept Jens in the Pacific Northwest longer than anywhere else during his career.
But it’s not all work, work, work. Jens finds joy in simple pleasures, like leisurely walks along the Vancouver Seawall with Kristine and their two golden retrievers (who you may see at the hotel adding to the warm, family atmosphere). He also enjoys finding dog-friendly patios to unwind with a pint of lager.
“It’s a great way to observe society. I’m always curious about the restaurant scene—learning something new while enjoying the experience.”
Ultimately, it all ties into his vision for the Fairmont Pacific Rim—a place where high-end luxury is accessible and comfortable for everyone. Jens says this means creating a welcoming space where all guests feel at home, regardless of their background.
“It’s more than just a hotel; it’s a dynamic cultural hub in the downtown core,” he explains.
For Jens, it’s this perfect fusion of work, creativity and the joy of simple pleasures that truly defines the essence of hospitality—and what makes the Fairmont Pacific Rim a place that resonates with its guests.
H2 Commander
H2 Captain
Stressless Consul SHOP SCAN
A piece of the piazza
Burnaby’s Italian village takes shape in Bassano
WORDS LISA MANFIELD
PHOTOS COURTESY BOFFO DEVELOPMENTS
If living in an Italian village is but a fleeting fantasy, a new Lower Mainland community by Boffo Developments may just bring that dolce vita dream within reach.
The family-run company, whose owners hail from a Northern Italian region close to Bassano del Grappa, has created a local homage to their heritage in this cherished place: a four-tower, master-planned urban village located on the outskirts of Brentwood in North Burnaby. It’s called Bassano, and it’s set to transform the area into an Italian-inspired vision for exceptional livability.
Picture piazzas and communal spaces where friends and neighbours can come together, along with family-friendly homes where old-world design is married with modern sophistication.
“There is a lot of great development happening in the area,” says Karen West, vice president of marketing and sales at Boffo. “Bassano is for people seeking greater quiet amid the hustle and bustle of a city centre. It’s in a private, park-like setting, with close proximity to all the exciting amenities of Brentwood.”
This legacy project for the Boffo family will augment its already impressive catalogue of timeless landmark residences, including The Smithe in Vancouver, as well as Modello and Jewel I & II in Burnaby. The Jewel project was the recipient of numerous awards for best multi-family high-rise.
“Our craftsmanship and attention to detail are second to none,” Karen says. “We build these homes ourselves and take pride in everything we do. Every building is a reflection of who we are.”
WHERE COMMUNITY COMES TOGETHER
Burnaby became a Canadian home for the Boffo family, and it’s where they originally founded their company in the 1970s.
“This is where they started building houses,” Karen says, “and that sense of home community is now woven into the design of Bassano, which has been in the works for over 20 years.”
“Scuro” palette. CREDIT: RAEF GROHNE
“While developing the design, we took special care to adopt an Italian sensibility. We paid particular attention to influences from Northern Italy and how they could inform the design. Naturally, there was no shortage of inspiration—everything from cuisine, to fashion and classic cars was considered.”
“Scuro” palette. CREDIT: RAEF GROHNE
Infusing welcoming and soulful communal spaces was important here—much like it is in Europe, where gathering places are common in urban settings.
“We’ve focused on amenity spaces to create an extension of the home,” Karen says.
All four towers will centre around a large outdoor park and garden, designed to include a playground, picnic and seating areas, plus a pathway around the entire community, so residents can walk, and kids can burn off their energy in a safe—and beautiful—outdoor setting. There’s even a purposedesigned dog park.
An intimate village vibe will be a running theme through all the amenity spaces. For example, the lobby lounge is designed to be as much an entranceway as a meeting space, with its cosy fireplace and reception area.
“Residents and visitors will be met upon entry by an elegant statement crystal chandelier,” says Scott Trepp, whose company Trepp Design Inc. created the interior designs for Bassano, its third project with Boffo.
“We intentionally dialed up the size of this fixture and paired it with a backdrop of rich wood panelling for maximum impact. The sparkle of the chandelier contrasts with the woodwork and dramatic marble to set a tone of luxury and comfort.”
Adjacent to the lounge, a flexible co-working space designed for concentration and collaboration offers open work areas as well as private rooms and smaller hideaways—ample space for meetings and quiet phone calls. The ground floor will also host a family lounge, with a series of spaces that can be closed off for multiple groups or opened up for larger gatherings. These include a media room, an elegant dining area with a grand catering kitchen, a games lounge and a children’s play area, all of which open out onto an outdoor garden with exterior kitchen, seating areas and the quintessential Italian bocce ball court.
The second level offers a health club, which includes a fully equipped gym, barre and yoga rooms and infrared sauna, as well as two bookable guest suites that overlook the garden. The rooftop is also designed with community in mind, with large, open lounges, dining area and quiet al fresco patio spaces anchored by stunning, unobstructed views for all to enjoy. Finally, a ground-level market café, adjacent to the lobby, provides a convenient hub to grab a coffee, lunch, and some daily grocery essentials.
AN ITALIAN-INSPIRED LEGACY—INSIDE AND OUT
The beauty of Bassano is that it’s intentionally crafted for owner-residents, which is reflected in its timeless design and superior materials selected for elegance as well as longevity. All homes are available in two Italian-inspired colour schemes: scuro and chiaro, meaning dark and light. Combined, the words form “chiaroscuro,” an emotive Renaissance painting technique to enhance tonal contrast.
Boffo’s signature floor plan at Bassano is a 1,234-square-foot flexible two- or three-bedroom plan with 32 linear feet of window space.
“It feels more like a single-family home,” Karen says, “with a massive living and dining area, and the option to build out a third bedroom. This is the fourth building where we’ve offered this floor plan and we continue to refine it with each project.”
Like any Italian-inspired space, the kitchen is the anchor to the open-living concept, and stuns with Italian porcelain backsplashes that come in a polished black with a warm bronzy vein, or a classic polished white marble with a grey vein.
“While developing the design, we took special care to adopt an Italian sensibility,” Scott says. “We paid particular attention to influences from Northern Italy and how they could inform the design. Naturally, there was no shortage of inspiration—everything from cuisine to fashion and classic cars was considered. In fact, one of the colour palettes was inspired by espresso and amaro, and the other by white porcelain and a classic cacio e pepe.”
All appliances are Italian-made by Bertazzoni, and tapware is Gessi, which Scott says is used more often in private residential luxury offerings.
“The inclusion of Gessi fixtures speaks to the pride and attention to detail that Boffo has brought to Bassano,” he adds.
Other unique design touches include custom-built cabinetry from Italy, including bespoke wardrobes in every home. Several floor plans include kitchen window layouts that are not commonly found in condo living, Karen says.
“Every detail has been meticulously considered to create a unique brand of livability,” she adds. “We are very proud of this Boffo community.”
Phase 1 of Bassano is now in pre-sale. Find out more at boffo.ca/bassano.
“Chiaro” palette. CREDIT: JONATHAN FOLK
fashion
The new beauty is strong with a healthy side of fierceness. With last summer’s Olympic Games fever starting to cool off, fashion continues to heat up with pieces that are not only stylish but call attention to strength. Game on!
BY LIA CROWE STYLING BY JEN EVANS
MAKEUP AND HAIR BY JEN CLARK
ATHLETES AMELIA
Photographed on location at Windsor Park. A huge thank you to Oak Bay Parks and Recreation for graciously hosting our team for the day.
PHOTOS
MODELS:
WOODLEY, SIMONE NAGASAKI, DELLA MULLANE AND MICAH MULLANE
Necklaces, right to left: on Amelia, Eye of the Serpent Necklace, $460; on Simone, Infinite Compass Necklace, $430; on Della, Gate of Mazeus Necklace, $335; on Micah, The Trompe L'oeil Necklace, $430, all by Pamela Card, and all from Bernstein & Gold. All clothing, model's own, except pink sweatpants, $90, by Lucas Emily Louie from Turnabout.
On Amelia: yellow, cropped puffer jacket, $48, by Tiger Mist, black bra tank, $115, and leggings, $180, by Alexander Wang, purple and yellow leather sneakers, $150, by Nike, all from Turnabout; long Jacqui coat in black (around waist), $475, silver Remnants of Athina Earrings, $430, by Pamela Card, both from Bernstein & Gold; yellow necklace, stylist's own; socks, stylist’s own.
On Della: grey herringbone
On Micah: pink and black bra tank, $25, by Lululemon, Saturn Bomber Jacket, $230, by Ksubi, gold and blue Nike sneakers, all from Turnabout; shorts, model’s own; socks, stylist’s own.
bra tank, $23, by Lululemon, vintage white and black chiffon skirt, $60, gold and orange Nike Air sneakers, all from Turnabout; Masculin/Feminin sweatshirt in grey, $255, by Clare V, Ridge Cuff in Persimmon, $175, by Lizzie Fortunato, both from Bernstein & Gold; headband and socks, stylist’s own.
lifestyles
Becoming a warrior
Surrender,
reconnect and stand fiercely with love at this wilderness retreat
WORDS + PHOTOGRAPHY LIA CROWE
There is a particular sound that rain makes only when you are silently floating in the middle of a lake in a kayak. It’s a percussive symphony of high-pitched plinks and deep hollow bloops.
This is day two at Indigenous-owned Liberty Wilderness Lodge, and we (my new-ish boyfriend and I) are out on a kayak adventure, but nature has its own agenda. A previous version of myself may have thought, “oh, darn, rain, let’s turn back.” But after a couple days at Liberty, the new me surrenders to the rhythm of nature and enjoys the sensation of floating and getting completely soaked.
Then, I’m struck by an idea.
“Base camp, it’s Lia, over,” I say into my walkie talkie.
I hear Trevin Muscat’s friendly voice: “This is base camp, what can I do for you?”
“Can you please fire up the sauna?”
“Roger that!”
Then I accept the rain with full surrender, arms out, face up, and allow this experience to let all my edges blur until I became part human, part sky and part lake.
The notion of surrender—a theme of this trip—was first introduced on our drive from Smithers, BC to the boat dock at Babine Lake. During the drive, we got to know Teara Fraser and Trevin, the husband-and-wife team who owns and runs Liberty Wilderness Lodge and our hosts for the next three days.
In addition to serving up gourmet food, relaxation and outdoor activities, the lodge offers the option of participating in a “warriorship” workshop that’s steeped in Indigenous teachings. I like learning and growing and embarking on journeys that nourish the mind, body and soul. So, when the opportunity to visit Liberty Wilderness Lodge with a guest and participate in the warriorship work arose, I jumped on it. Also, being in a somewhat new relationship, I thought that being dropped off together in a remote, off-grid wilderness would be a fast-track to… getting to know each other.
SURRENDER
“Nature offers us an invitation to surrender,” says Teara, who, in addition to co-owning the lodge, is the founder and CEO of Iskwew Air, the first 100 per cent Indigenous woman-owned airline in Canada. She explains that we will arrive at the dock for the 45-minute boat ride to Liberty if nature cooperates and the winds aren’t up. If nature doesn’t cooperate, we will surrender and wait.
“There’s something really precious about surrender, to let go of control of things,” she adds.
Luckily, the winds are on our side and we’re soon motoring along, watching all signs of civilization fade away to nothing but aspen and cottonwood trees, leafy above the lodgepole pines and firs, until eventually the red roof of Liberty, nestled high up the hillside and deep in the wilderness, comes into view.
Originally a log homestead built in the 1970s, it was renovated into a guest lodge before Teara and Trevin purchased it.
“Who is your target demographic?” I ask Teara, as our boat nears the little bay below the lodge.
“Our world desperately needs people to step into their warriorship, to stand fiercely for what matters...”
“Liberty is for anyone who longs for adventure and a connection with simplicity.”
The lodge sits on the hillside, overlooking the lake, and it has a collection of lovely guest rooms, a cosy reading area and a large great room with high ceilings and a huge fireplace. On the property is a fully stocked boathouse and a wood-fired sauna and hot tub with stunning views. We opt to stay in the Trappers Cabin, a tiny, picture-perfect log house separate from the main lodge. It overlooks its own little bay, and we are immediately welcomed by a beaver that looks up at us and then disappears into the water with a saucy slap of its tail.
Touring this magical place, we learn that the lodge is powered by solar panels, has its own water system and high-speed internet (thanks to Starlink), and uses composting toilets.
SHIFT
The first morning we arrive at breakfast and after devouring fluffy pancakes and bacon with hot cups of coffee, I notice cards sitting face down beside everyone’s place setting. Teara invites us to flip over our cards, and mine reveals a drawing of a wolf in front of a full moon. The cards are from The Sacred Medicine Oracle by Indigenous medicine woman Asha Frost, and as we go around the table, Teara reads the cards, and we discuss what the teachings reveal. Each card offers wisdom for deeper reflection, a new perspective and even healing.
Back in our cabin, the conversation between my boyfriend and I takes on a new level of depth and intimacy following the openness at the breakfast card-reading, and then the four of us head out for a hike up Juniper Trail to Kinnikinnick Lookout.
Here, we savour a wide view in all directions—a view that, aside from us, contains no signs of humans at all, just wilderness.
Asked what he hopes people will take away from an experience here, Trevin says, “A sense of peace, a deep sense of connection to yourself and to what’s important to your life. There’s always a shift in priorities when you come here; things that seemed important are re-evaluated and sometimes shift entirely.”
Teara adds, “I want people to be able to take a breath, a full breath and remember what that feels like.”
WARRIORSHIP
Day two starts with another incredible breakfast, and after a soulexpanding kayak adventure, sauna and a gourmet picnic lunch, we are set to embark on the warriorship workshop with Teara.
She begins by introducing the nugget of the teaching—“to stand fiercely with love for what matters.” It’s about finding that sword inside yourself and learning to use it. We listen, we journal, we reflect and then we go out onto the land to meditate. I sit on the hillside with some tobacco in a shell that Teara has given me to make an offering to the land. As I meditate, I can smell the earth and feel the sun on my face.
Teara’s words come to my mind: “Our world desperately needs
people to step into their warriorship, to stand fiercely for what matters. Our future generations need us to be fierce about the systems that are not serving us. We have to start paying attention and hold those things that matter with fierceness and deep love and be willing to show up—for racial justice, social justice and ecological justice. My hope is that people will connect with their own warriorship, witness it and inspire it in others.”
She says we need to “re-member” those parts of us, and so I meditate on pulling the pieces inside myself together to form a warrior who will be there when I need her.
CONNECTION
After a time, my boyfriend comes and sits beside me, and we look out at the view in peaceful silence. Everything looks different. The trees seem a little greener, the air a little sweeter. I realize that we have gotten to know each other better—not in a typical dating way, where you ask about preferences and look for red flags—but I’ve gotten to know him as a fellow human being, and our connection has deepened.
On the boat ride back, we explore the Indigenous world view of “all my relations,” wherein we are all interconnected and need to think of the impact we have on each other, not just for this lifetime, but for seven generations beyond us.
This world view wasn’t described during our time at Liberty, but I realize that from the moment we arrived, we were witnessing it. We were steeped in that way of being. The generosity of our hosts, the love put into every meal, the stewardship of the land, the slow pace and invitation to deeper connectedness to each other and the land has not only given me some desperately needed restoration, but it has left me empowered to stand fiercely with love for what matters.
“A cup of tea is a cup of peace.”
Why teatime should be your new daily ritual
WORDS ELLIE SHORTT PHOTOGRAPHY LIA CROWE
For centuries, many cultures and groups have created rituals around tea. In places like India, Japan and China, tea is a sacred, ceremonial and essential part of life, offering a focused exercise of slowing down and sipping in the moment, while honouring the earth and cultivation practices that provide a simple yet transcendent cup.
“A cup of tea is a cup of peace,” says Sen Sōshitsu XV, the 15th-generation Grand Master of Urasenke, one of the most widely known schools of Japanese tea.
A designated time in the day for everyone to stop and take tea is perhaps now associated most with that unstoppable institution that is British “afternoon tea.” This is an arguably unifying and almost egalitarian routine that has historically seen aristocrats and factory workers pausing at roughly the same time of day, to rest and recharge with a hot hit of caffeine and something sweet to snack on. There are even tales of army generals taking a break from pressing battle plans and full-on wars to sit down for their afternoon sip.
There’s no question that culturally speaking, the tradition of afternoon tea in the United Kingdom is taken very seriously.
While the custom of drinking tea dates back to the third millennium BCE in China and was rising in popularity in the 1660s in England’s court of King Charles II, it wasn’t until the mid-19th century that the concept of “afternoon tea” as we know it now first appeared. It may have been introduced by Anna, the seventh Duchess of Bedford, in 1840, when she regularly became hungry around four o’clock each afternoon (the evening meal in her household was served fashionably late at eight o’clock), and requested that a tray of tea and cake be brought to her room. This became a habit and she began inviting friends to join. It gradually evolved into a fashionable social event, and by the 1880s, upper-class society women would change into gowns, gloves and hats for their afternoon tea—usually served in a drawing room—and enjoy traditional offerings such as dainty sandwiches, scones with clotted cream, and cakes and pastries, all accompanied by tea grown in India or Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) and poured from silver tea pots into delicate bone china cups. Fancy presentations such
as these are now mostly reserved for special occasions, and most day-to-day afternoon tea times in British households consist of one biscuit or cake and a single mug of black tea.
Whether engaging in an elaborate and upscale production or a more homey and humble ritual, there is an important takeaway from teatime. It’s a call to slow down, sit, sip and savour the moment. It’s a reminder that almost nothing is so important that it can’t be paused for a brief breath in time while you rest and recharge.
The seasons of fall and winter naturally ask this of us, as the days get shorter and darker, the weather cools and encourages us to retreat indoors, wrap up in blankets, and take a rest from running around, getting things done, and checking off boxes. Yet for many, fall and winter mark the busiest times of year. The scramble of the start of the school year spills into the hustle and bustle of the holiday season, and then in January, burnt out from all the festivities, many feel the pressure to hit the gym or start new and often demanding routines in the new year. No wonder so many folks feel utterly spent come February.
So here, I offer a simple invitation to take up the art of afternoon tea, or at least something along those lines (really any time of day will do). See it as a forced pause in an otherwise unrelenting schedule. Sit with yourself, your thoughts, a good book, or a journal (just perhaps without your phone). Or maybe even invite a friend over and take the opportunity to facilitate deeper and more meaningful oneon-one connections, in contrast to the often flighty and superficial interactions of cocktail soirees and dinner parties.
Fall and winter are the perfect seasons to take on this tradition, not only with its offering of slowing down and introspection, but also with its comforting call to bake and cosy up with steamy beverages.
Philosopher Bernard Paul Heroux said, “There is no trouble so great or grave that cannot be diminished by a nice cup of tea.” And while this might not be a universal truth, I do invite you to put that general concept to the test by starting your own rituals, routines and traditions around a designated “tea,” and see how time and space seem to stand still and even expand as you do.
Pumpkin Scones with Honey Cinnamon Yogurt
Whip
Prep time: about 10 minutes. Bake time: about 20 minutes. Makes 8 large scones (or 16 smaller ones).
Fluffy yet moist from the pumpkin puree, these slightly spiced scones offer that muchloved taste of the fall season—but are perfect for deep winter as well. The yogurt whip is my version of a lazy clotted cream (which usually requires baking), providing a richer, more luxurious mouthfeel than whipped cream, and a complementary nuance with the honey and cinnamon flavourings.
FOR THE WHIP
Ingredients:
½ cup whipping cream
½ cup thick plain Greek yogurt
1 tbsp honey
1 tsp ground cinnamon
Directions
Using a high-powered mixer (hand-held or stand-up), whisk the cream until light and fluffy.
Fold in the yogurt and honey until wellintegrated, followed by the cinnamon. Store in the fridge until ready to serve.
FOR THE SCONES
Ingredients:
2 cups (250g) all-purpose flour
2 ½ tsp baking powder
1 tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
⅛ tsp ground clove
½ tsp sea salt
½ cup unsalted butter, frozen
⅓ cup heavy cream
1 large egg
½ cup canned pumpkin puree
½ cup (100g) light brown sugar
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
*Optional: coarse sugar for sprinkling on top before baking— otherwise sprinkle with some powdered sugar afterwards
Directions:
Preheat oven to 400 F and line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, spices and salt. Grate the frozen butter (I use a box grater), add to the flour mixture, and combine it with a pastry cutter or fork until the mixture comes together in pea-sized crumbs.
In a small bowl, whisk the cream, egg, pumpkin, brown sugar and vanilla extract. Drizzle it over the flour mixture and then stir it all together until everything appears moistened. With floured hands, work the dough into a ball as best you can and transfer onto a floured work surface. Press into an even
eight-inch disc and, with a very sharp knife, cut into eight equal wedges. If you prefer smaller, round scones, you can use a cookie cutter to form those.
Place scones at least 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheet.
If you’re going to add the coarse sugar, pour a couple tablespoons more of the heavy cream into a bowl, and using a pastry brush, brush the scones with the cream and sprinkle with coarse sugar. Otherwise place in the oven as is.
Bake the larger scones for about 20 minutes or until lightly browned, or if you made smaller scones, bake for about 15 minutes.
*Scones are best served fresh out of the oven, but if you do have leftovers and want to preserve them, I suggest popping them in the freezer, thawing fully, and then reheating in the oven.
Roasted Butternut Squash Tea
Sandwiches with Walnut Kale
Pesto and Chèvre
Prep time: about 20 minutes. Assembly time: about 5 minutes. Makes about 20 tea sandwiches.
This is perhaps a stronger flavour profile than I’d usually suggest when accompanying a cup of tea and is certainly a heartier alternative to cucumber sandwiches. With that said, the combination of kale, butternut squash, walnut and chèvre is one of my favourites for fall and winter and is supported well with a more rustic bread such as sourdough. If, however, you’re wanting something more subdued for your afternoon tea spread, simply layer the butternut squash and the chèvre (and even a little sprinkling of cinnamon) and save the pesto for your lunch sandwich or pasta.
Ingredients:
1 medium butternut squash
1 cup soft chèvre (the softer and creamier the better)
1 loaf of rustic bread (I like using a sourdough baked into a loaf shape)
1 cup walnut kale pesto (see instructions below)
Sea salt
Olive oil
Directions:
Preheat your oven to 400 F and line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Halve the squash, deseed it, slice it into thin sheets (about ¼-inch thick), trim off the skin and cut into square shapes the size of your bread slices.
Brush the squash slices with a small amount of olive oil, sprinkle with a bit of sea salt and place on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for about 20 minutes until soft and slightly browning on the edges. Set aside to cool.
Assemble the sandwiches by spreading about a tablespoon of chèvre on one slice of bread, and about a tablespoon of pesto on the other piece. Place a square of baked butternut squash on top of the chèvre, and top with the pesto bread.
Cut off the crusts. Slice diagonally in half and serve.
FOR THE PESTO
Ingredients:
3 cups baby kale
1-2 garlic cloves
½ cup walnut pieces (raw or toasted is fine)
¼ cup Parmesan, freshly grated
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
Juice of 1 small lemon
Sea salt to taste
Directions:
Place all the ingredients in a high-powered food processor or blender, and blend or pulse until desired consistency (I like it a bit chunky, but you might prefer it smoother).
The landscapes are breathtaking, with old-growth forests, rocky coastlines, pristine lakes and beaches that go on forever. The cultural heritage of the Haida people imbues it all with sense of spirituality and a connection to the land.
On the trail up Tow Hill, we stop at the first lookout to take in the scene: a sun-stroked expanse of sand, narrowing as it disappears into a soft mist. This is Rose Spit, and it is the perfect place to pause on our first day in Haida Gwaii because, according to legend, this is the birthplace of the Haida people.
“The raven, one of the most powerful creatures in Haida mythology, was lonely. As he wandered down the beach, he heard noises coming from a clamshell. As he looked in the clamshell, he saw many tiny little creatures hiding within. The raven convinced people to emerge from under the shell to enjoy the New World, and they became the first Haida people.”
Magic abounds in Haida Gwaii, often referred to as “the edge of the world.” The landscapes are breathtaking, with old-growth forests, rocky coastlines, pristine lakes and beaches that go on forever. The cultural heritage of the Haida people imbues it all with a sense of spirituality and a connection to the land. And the very remoteness of these islands reveals a wilderness in its purest form. This is a place that demands reverence and respect: a place you go for your soul.
We land in Masset, at the north end of Graham Island, one day in mid-June, having flown from Vancouver via Pacific Coastal Airlines. A shuttle takes us to our car rental, and after a quick lunch, we head straight to Old Masset, jaws dropping as we witness the spectacular totems and art that reside around every corner.
Later, after our hike up Tow Hill—where, from the top, we can see Alaska—we drive the ocean-hugging main road south to Tlell and step into the stunning world of Haida Gwaii Glamping. So much care and thought have gone into creating this unique accommodation, where large canvas tents dot a brightly lit boardwalk above a short, forested path to the ocean. Here, you sleep under mosquito nets in cosy queen beds and spacious tents that have adjoining shower and toilet rooms on one side and balconies on the other. From our balcony we can see the ocean and we sit peacefully here for a period, listening to eagles calling overhead. Later, we stroll along the beach, absorbing the utter tranquility and calm of a wild and deserted stretch of rocks and sand.
A complimentary continental breakfast is served communally in a geodesic “social dome,” which has a long table, couches and lounging areas, toys for the kids, and all the plates, cutlery and cooking materials you need for either your breakfast here or a meal down at the “deck”—a beautifully designated eating and cooking area equipped with barbecues and oversized seafood cooking pots. During our stay, we have the honour of dining on the deck with Haida Gwaii-born Alana Husby, who, along with her sister, Nicole, created this luxury accommodation. Alana is a wonderful host and a spectacular storyteller— with some riveting tales to share.
Just up the road from Haida Gwaii Glamping sits Haida House at Tllaal, where we dine on our first night. The room is awash in beautiful Haida art, and the menu offers a selection of regional tide- and farm-to-table cuisine. I absolutely swoon over what must be the best tuna I’ve ever tasted.
Haida House—which also offers accommodation in rooms above the restaurant and in 12 two-bedroom, Haida-inspired oceanside cabins—sits alongside the Tlell River, and across the water is the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail that we hope to hike tomorrow. The five-kilometre trail leads to the wreck of the vessel Pezuta (misspelled these days as Pesuta), which ran aground in 1928. Despite being on the beach for nearly 100 years, the bow is still there, jutting out from the sand. That day, however, we decide there are too many other must-sees nearby to hike the three-hour trail, so we settle for a much shorter beach walk that takes us to the mouth of the Tlell River, where we can see the shipwreck looming just across the way.
And then we set out to explore, driving first to nearby Crystal Cabin—a little gem store with big works of art—where we bask in the collection of vibrant Haida paintings, and drool over the jewellery before purchasing a pair of beautifully carved silver rings.
After admiring the totems in Skidegate and wandering around Daajing Giids, we settle in for a tour of the The Haida Heritage Centre at Ḵay ‘Llnagaay. Driving the main road south from Tlell, you can’t miss this stunning 50,000-squarefoot structure, designed in traditional long houses to resemble the oceanside Haida village that once stood here. The centre houses a museum, performance area, carving shed and canoe house, a teaching centre, classrooms, gift shop and bistro.
According to the mission statement, the Haida Heritage Centre celebrates the living culture of the Haida: “Through our language, art and stories we share our relationship with the land and sea which shapes, nourishes and sustains us…. Ḵay ‘Llnagaay is a place for the Haida voice to be heard. This is our gift to the world.”
Touring this centre, it really hits home that the Haida people have undergone a cultural genocide in the last century and are now reclaiming their glorious culture. You can’t experience the present of Haida Gwaii without looking at its past, so making a visit to this centre should be an essential part of any travel here.
Our day continues with a hike on an easy trail that winds through a sun-dappled forest around the perimeter of Spirit Lakes. A sign at the trailhead—which, of course, features a beautiful carved archway—warns of bears, which probably makes us hike a little faster than normal. We also stop at the famous Balance Rock—a massive boulder that appears to be balancing precariously on the beach.
The rain is coming in sideways the next morning as we leave Haida Gwaii Glamping (flush with items from the gift shop) and head to an early morning ferry from Skidegate to Alliford Bay on Moresby Island. Today we’ll be on the water with Moresby Explorers, and we’re met by our guides, who load us into a van for an informative, hour-long backroads drive to the launch site. Moresby Explorers offers numerous tours and private boat charters, but we’re here for a daytrip that will circumnavigate Louise Island and visit the ancient Haida village of K’uuna Llnagaay Skedans.
Once on the Zodiac, wearing raingear and bright orange flotation suits, we see a Minke whale before even leaving the bay. During the excursion, we also stop to watch sealions braying on a rock, spot a bear on the shoreline and witness the beauty of this breathtaking wilderness. But it is the stop at Skedans that touches our souls. Usually, the tour’s lunch takes place on the beach, but with the driving rain, the Skendans’ “watchmen”—Haida people
The social dome at Haida Gwaii Glamping.
Old Masset.
who live at significant sites over the summer and share their knowledge—invite us into the welcome warmth of their home. We enjoy a delicious meal provided by our tour guides and an enlightening conversation with our watchmen hosts. After lunch, we tour the ancient village site, where buildings once stood and ancient poles are still visible. This is a day we’ll never forget.
Back at our car, we drive to the tip of Sandspit and find our cosy accommodation for the next two nights—a brand-new fairway cabin, located on the edge of The Willows Golf Course at Hekate’s Retreat. The rain has stopped and from the deck of our fully self-contained cabin, we can see the ocean across the fairway, and it feels as though we truly are at the edge of the world. In addition to the cabins, Hekate’s Retreat rents out the Homestead House (accommodating eight people), the Beach House (for six) and RVs, as well as sites for camping. The links-style golf course, with 18 tee boxes on nine greens, is a visual highlight of this wild and remote setting, and the newly renovated Clubhouse Restaurant offers thoughtfully curated, upscale meals. The chef puts his own creative touch on the food—and it works. The two meals we enjoy here are divine.
Hekate’s Retreat is located just minutes from the K’il Kun Xidgwangs Daanaay airport, and we spend several hours on our last day walking a trail that leads from Hekate’s through a wildflower-strewn field, winding along a windswept beach all the way around the airport.
Like our other activities on Haida Gwaii it fosters a deep quiet within us, a sense of stillness and oneness with the land. It’s a huge exhale. It’s more moments of magic in a place that touches your soul.
PHOTO
COURTESY MORESBY EXPLORERS.
VICTORIA
islipped into the little powder room to hide, until I’d collected myself. This was the powder room that Victoria had created not many months before—before the cancer diagnosis.
In her usual high-spirited style, she had painted the tiny room a deep burgundy and had a lovely bowl sink mounted on an old bedside table. I’d been baffled by its impracticality, but in her pre-baby life she was an award-winning kitchen and bath designer, and vessel sinks were the fashion. It did look charming. She must have searched old junk shops for the little table, because she’d also found two very old, taxidermied ducklings, which she’d displayed on the shelf under the mirror. Their obvious age of many decades, combined with the surprise of seeing them there, made me laugh the first time I saw the finished powder room. I told her “I love the dead ducks!” Our off-beat humour may not have been shared by many of her friends, though, and once the surprise had worn off, the ducklings probably seemed sad, rather than funny. On this Sunday, when we arrived for the Easter party, the ducklings were gone.
I had run into the powder room immediately upon arriving to hide my panic. We’d been hearing generally upbeat reports on Victoria’s battle with the cancer, but it was obvious the optimism was a lie; she was losing the fight. Our precious, funny, amazing Victoria was dying. I had to get a grip on myself. Not only did I not want to cry in front of Victoria or the other guests, who were managing to put on a good show, but I didn’t dare indulge in a quiet cry; that would show. Struggling to regain my composure, I took deep breaths, flushed the toilet, washed my hands, practiced happy for the mirror, then rejoined the party.
Our mums-and-babies group would have “Mums’ Night Out” once a month, and one evening it was just three of us mums: Victoria, Beth and me. This was before the cancer.
I had just returned from a trip to South Carolina where we’d interred the ashes of my in-laws, who’d died weeks apart, like dominoes, two months earlier. It was stressful with my husband’s extended family: first cousins, second cousins, third cousins, cousins once removed, cousins twice removed. At one point, with a house full, and all the young cousins running around the house the way children do, the hostess, my late father-in-law’s first cousin, suddenly hooted that she’d forgotten all about the loaded handgun in the hall table upstairs.
At the airport, waiting for our flight home, I felt my compressed interior expanding in all directions. I could breathe again. The very next day was Mums’ Night Out. I bolted. Most of the mums couldn’t make it that day, so we three met at Spazzo, my all-time favourite restaurant, with its exuberant impressionistic décor and buzzy atmosphere.
Sitting at a window table, dark evening outside, my release from the funeral trip made me giddy. No talk of the funeral, just fun with friends. Victoria set the tone by taking a purple crayon from the jar provided and, with a grand flourish, she drew a sweeping curve right across the paper covering the table. Then using other colours, she designed all around the purple curve. Beth and I took up crayons too, but dabbled next to the master.
The restaurant wasn’t busy that Wednesday evening, and our waiter took very good care of us. Red wine and Retsina flowed. We talked and laughed and when our glasses were empty, we held them aloft, and our smiling waiter obliged. With the restaurant fairly
quiet, we talked and talked. Victoria told us about vivid dreams that she believed were of earlier lives.
In one, she was an older woman swimming alone in a small lake surrounded by woods. Wearing a blue seersucker bathing suit, she was swimming a gentle breaststroke through quiet, dark water. I could see her in the soft yellow light of late afternoon, pushing ripples ahead as she glided through the glass-like surface. Next, she was lying alone in a small bed against the wall in a wooden cabin by the lake. The grey-haired woman in the bed was, by choice, quietly dying alone. Victoria wasn’t upset by the vision, but was very clear-eyed about not dying alone in this life.
It was one of those wonderful times with friends that you long remember, with just the right combination of the simple joy in being together, laughing and heartfelt conversation. ****
And then the cancer came. There was a reprieve after six months or so of treatment. Maybe it was gone. But after several months of crossed fingers and held breaths, it was back. And it couldn’t be stopped. We didn’t really know how things were going. The “official” reports were always put in the most hopeful terms. When she wanted to host an Easter party, bringing together her friends and their children, we didn’t know what to expect.
She died in early July. Her large network of women friends, the mums-and-babies group and her kids’ school group, came together, channeling our collective grief into funeral arrangements. I’d been coming each week to tend Victoria’s large garden, bringing my boys to play with her son, whose age fell between my two. These visits were timed for Victoria’s treatments, so we never saw her. Because I’d been gardening, I was asked to organize flowers with a school-group mom.
We asked everyone in our two groups to bring any flowers they could from their gardens, coming the day before the funeral to arrange them. The church had many large vases and we used every one. While my partner and I left to get more flowers, those staying behind started arranging.
Upon returning we heard an extraordinary story. Sandy told us that while the flower arrangers were working just inside the doors that opened directly into the sanctuary, a butterfly had come inside. After flitting about, it landed on one of the bouquets. Sandy had gently picked up the vase with the butterfly and walked slowly out through the big open doors, the others trailing her. Once outside, the butterfly took to its wings. They watched as it flew up, up and was gone to the sky.
It seemed that Victoria, the believer in reincarnation, had come to visit this grief-stricken group, who had in turn released her, free to fly away. Visiting in the form of a butterfly was exactly what she would do.
The church was closed up overnight with all those flowers, so that next day the air inside was magnificently perfumed. It was the sort of detail Victoria would appreciate. ****
A week after the funeral, Victoria’s husband held the clam bake Victoria had ordered some months before. She loved gathering people at the house, so it was not a bit surprising that she had arranged this. But walking through the same house, sitting at the same picnic table on the same deck, looking at the same garden, it didn’t feel the same. I was overwhelmed; Victoria no longer was here. She had flown away.
behind the story
A couple of days into her time at Liberty Wilderness Lodge (see story in this edition of Boulevard), writer/photographer Lia Crowe noticed the word “Liberty” tattooed on lodge co-owner Teara Fraser’s foot, suggesting the name of the lodge echoed an important theme in her life. So, Lia asked for the story.
After buying the lodge, sight unseen, Teara and her husband Trevin Muscat began brainstorming names for the lodge.
“I asked Trevin, what does the place mean for you, what emotions come up?” Teara said. “And he just kept saying, ‘freedom.’”
“Being [at the lodge] is such a powerful way of being in the world—being so in-tune with nature and our surroundings,” Trevin said. “Rising with the sun, going to bed with it, having the time to take in the sights, smells and tastes, and the deep sense of restoration and calm. To me, those are all aspects of freedom. And then there is the obvious one, where we’re free
from all the established systems. Here, we can generate our own power; provide water and potentially food, and that to me is freedom.”
Teara, who already had the “liberty” tattoo, said, “So, I asked him if there was any other word, but he kept coming back to freedom. Eventually, I said, ‘Liberty?’ And Trevin said, ‘Yup!’ And we bought the domain right then and there.”
Having the word “wilderness” in the name was also important, as they wanted potential guests to understand its remoteness.
Having been a guest, Lia can attest to the deep sense of freedom she experienced there. She said, “It’s a freedom we all need once in a while: freedom to wake up when we feel rested or freedom to hop in a kayak and just go! Being so far from civilization, with every comfort you need at hand, does something to you—perhaps it can be described as liberating!”
PHOTO BY LIA CROWE
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