Boutique Magazine December 2023 by BPM008

DECEMBER 2023

BUSINESS SENSE FOR FASHION RETAILERS

ISSUE 157

Merry & bright

Goodbye 2023 Christmas windows Luxe sleepwear Reducing returns

NOW AT PORTE DE VERSAILLES HALL 7

05 – 07.02.2024 PARIS, FRANCE

Partner-up for fashion sourcing

texworldevolution-paris.com

EDITOR’S LETTER EDITOR Gemma Ward gemma@bpmedialtd.co.uk PRINT AND ONLINE SALES Julie Neill – julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk Tel 01795 515288 Tel 07960797383 DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Jack Witcomb – jack@bpmedialtd.co.uk CREDIT CONTROL Jilly Barker - Jilly@bpmedialtd.co.uk PUBLISHERS Julie Neill MANAGING DIRECTOR Julie Neill © 2022 Boutique Professional Media Ltd, Office 2, The Old Stable Block, Crescent Road, Faversham, Kent ME13 7GU. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form – electronic, mechanical or physical – without express prior permission and written consent of the publisher. Contributions are invited and when not accepted will be returned only if accompanied by a fully stamped and addressed envelope. Manuscripts should be type written. No responsibility can be taken for drawings, photographs or literary contributions during transmission or in the editor’s hands. In the absence of an agreement the copyright of all contributions, literary, photographic or artistic, belongs to Boutique Professional Media. The publisher accepts no responsibility in respect of advertisements appearing in the magazine and the opinions expressed do not necessarily represent the views of the Publisher. The Publisher cannot accept liability for any loss arising from the late appearance or non publication of any advertisement.

ON THE COVER:

Image courtesy of Taifun; Tel: 0207 436 8383/ 0777 592 3353 E: beau.scarlett-pitt@gerryweber.com gerryweber.com/en-eu/brands/taifun

It’s Christmas!

ndependent retailers have been spreading joy around the country this month with their festive shop fronts, inspiring gift selections and standout personal service. With not many shopping days left until Christmas, we hope you’re enjoying a spike in sales as well as some merry retail magic. To help spread some seasonal cheer of our own, we pick out some brilliant Christmas windows lovingly created by independents starting from page 33. It’s been wonderful to see so many of you taking part in indie-led shopping campaigns over the past few weeks. While official figures are yet to be released, it’s likely that this year’s Black Friday failed to entice as many shoppers as usual to spend. Many indie retailers purposely boycotted the event this year, asking their customers to support small businesses instead of retail giants. According to research from Bira, 86 per cent of indies made the decision not to take part. Key alternatives included Bira’s #LoveYourHighStreetWeek, which debuted last month offering a full seven days of celebrating small shops. Meanwhile, the third Colour Friday, first launched in 2021 by small business champion Holly Tucker, gained even more traction this year with many fashion indies taking part. Finally, Small Business Saturday

kicked-started December sales earlier this month, with an estimated 11 million Britons spending a collective £669 million with independents throughout the day. The ‘shop small’ message has never been more prevalent, and we’re delighted to see the tide continue to turn in consumer opinion on what really matters. Let’s hope it continues into 2024. We know some of you have had a standout year. However, equally, we know many retailers have struggled with the ever-present onslaught of challenges. Rising inflation has severely dampened consumer confidence in 2023 while changeable weather has been detrimental to sales. Starting on page 39, six leading indie owners reveal their most memorable moments of the year as well as those they’d rather forget. And as we prepare to welcome in the new year, they also share what’s on their wish-list for the 12 months ahead. From the entire Boutique team, we wish you a very merry Christmas and happy new year. Gemma Ward, Editor Follow us on Instagram @boutique.magazine

SHOP SHOP TALK TALK

SHOP SHOP TALK TALK 1

Down to Business

INSIGHT FOR FASHION INDIES

Spreading Spreadingjoy joy

HERE’S HERE’S PROOF PROOF (IF IT (IFWAS IT WAS EVER EVER NEEDED) NEEDED) THAT THAT INDIE INDIE RETAILERS RETAILERS CREATE CREATE THETHE MOST MOST MAGICAL MAGICAL CHRISTMAS CHRISTMAS WINDOWS WINDOWS ON ON THETHE HIGH HIGH STREET STREET

rom glitter rom glitter balls to balls twinkling to twinkling bespoke bespoke muralmural in thein shop’s the shop’s front front fairy lights, fairy lights, town town and and porchporch beforebefore addingadding real Christmas real Christmas city centres city centres around around the the trees, trees, foliage, foliage, mistletoe, mistletoe, lights,lights, country country have come have come alive alive pinecones pinecones and woodland and woodland creature creature this Christmas this Christmas with beautiful with beautiful festivefestiveornaments. ornaments. Magical. Magical. window window displays. displays. Independent Independent 3 3 2. THE DRESSING DRESSING retailers retailers are leading are leading the way thewith way with 2. THE ROOM, ROOM, ST ALBANS ST ALBANS unique unique installations installations designed designed to to Perfectly epitomising epitomising a glitzy, a glitzy, 3. CRANE 3. CRANE ANDAND inspire inspire and excite and excite shoppers. shoppers. Here are Here arePerfectly KIND, KIND, SIDMOUTH SIDMOUTH glamorous glamorous festivefestive season, season, The The six of six ouroffavourites… our favourites… Fondly known known as ‘theaspink ‘the shop’ pink shop’ Dressing Dressing Room’s Room’s Christmas Christmas windows windowsFondly 1. LAST 1. LAST NIGHT NIGHT I I amongamong locals,locals, CraneCrane and Kind’s and Kind’s combine combine party party sequins sequins with sparkling with sparkling DREAMT, DREAMT, SOUTHWELL SOUTHWELL Christmas Christmas windows windows are theare icing the on icing on decorations. decorations. The award-winning The award-winning Contemporary Contemporary jewellery jewellery independent independentstore’sstore’s theof cake its pretty of its pretty façade. façade. This year This year paredpared back display back display gives its gives its the cake Last Night Last Night I Dreamt I Dreamt has transformed has transformedexterior its –team led by – led co-founding by co-founding sisterssisters exterior a sophisticated a sophisticated aesthetic aesthetic as as its team its shop its front shop into frontainto winter a winter wonderland wonderland Polly McLachlan and Jemma and Jemma Lascelles Lascelles four mannequins four mannequins modelmodel its mustits must- Polly McLachlan - complete - complete with awith working a working snow snow have created a disco-themed a disco-themed display display have pieces have pieces against against a backdrop a backdrop of of – have– created machine. machine. OwnerOwner Rebecca Rebecca Gibbions, Gibbions, disco disco featuring glitterglitter balls, balls, giant giant musical musical balls, balls, mirrors mirrors and twinkling and twinkling featuring who has who been has dreaming been dreaming up theup the and twinkling and twinkling lights.lights. Offering Offering silver silver beads.beads. We particularly We particularly love its love its notes notes installation’s installation’s concept concept since February, since February, thought-provoking everything underunder one roof onefor roof stylish for stylish thought-provoking window window graphics: graphics:everything drew inspiration drew inspiration from Hans from Hans Christian Christian‘Life is‘Life and kids, and passing kids, passing shoppers shoppers can can likeisa like discoa ball… disco ball… no matter no matter mumsmums Andersen’s Andersen’s The Little The Fir Little Tree FirtoTree create to createhow the view store’s the store’s latest latest childrenswear, childrenswear, how music the music changes, changes, you keep youon keep on view the the design. the design. She enlisted She enlisted local artist local artist dancing. giftspartywear and partywear ideas ideas while while takingtaking dancing. ’ Think ’ Think a night a night at outatStudio out Studio gifts and Anna Anna Wheelhouse Wheelhouse to create to create a stunning a stunning in some in some joyfuljoyful Christmas Christmas magic.magic. 54 - but 54 at - but Christmas. at Christmas. | DECEMBER | DECEMBER 34 | boutique. 34 | boutique. 2023 2023

4. IRIS 4. IRIS & VIOLET, & VIOLET, STAMFORD STAMFORD 5. CHLOE 5. CHLOE JAMES, JAMES, ST ALBANS ST ALBANS 6. MOO 6. MOO ANDAND BOOM, BOOM, Making Making a big impact a big impact with awith small a small WHITCHURCH ANDAND CAMBRIDGE CAMBRIDGE WHITCHURCH

Whether Whether strolling strolling past its past Cambridge its Cambridgeshop front Sustainable Sustainable lifestyle lifestyle indie indie Moo and Moo and shop front space,space, womenswear womenswear boutique boutique or triple-fronted or triple-fronted Stamford Stamford independent has encapsulated has encapsulated the magic the magic independent ChloeChloe JamesJames Lifestyle’s Lifestyle’sBoomBoom shop, shop, Iris and IrisViolet’s and Violet’s Christmas Christmas of Christmas of Christmas Eve with Eve its with nightits nightparty-perfect party-perfect window window features features windows windows will evoke will evoke some some festivefestive sky-themed window window installation. installation. sparking sparking sequins, sequins, gift ideas gift ideas and luxe and luxesky-themed cheer.cheer. Both shop Both fronts shop fronts have have Its incredibly detailed detailed ‘snow‘snow village’ village’ decorations. decorations. Everything Everything on display on display Its incredibly been given been given a yuletide a yuletide updateupdate with with is available display includes includes everything everything you’d you’d is available to purchase to purchase in-store in-store and anddisplay suspended suspended glitterglitter baubles, baubles, illuminated illuminated want a Christmas in a Christmas scenescene - from- from online, online, from from the black the black velvetvelvet ‘Merry ‘Merrywant in stars, stars, twinkly twinkly fairy lights fairy lights and and (eco-friendly) houses houses and skiing and skiing Christmas’ Christmas’ bunting bunting and honeycomb and honeycomb(eco-friendly) decorated decorated foliage. foliage. We love Wethe love pastel the pastelpaperpaper snowmen to ice-skating to ice-skating polar polar bears bears baubles baubles to thetopretty the pretty fairy fairy snowmen hues that huesare that perfectly are perfectly in-keeping in-keeping sittingsitting and flying and flying reindeer. reindeer. Santa’sSanta’s sleighsleigh is is on toponoftop theoftree. the Finished tree. Finished off off with its with new itsseason new season collections collections as wellas well also suspended also suspended mid-air mid-air and filled and filled to to with awith dazzling a dazzling neon neon ‘Kitchen ‘Kitchen Disco’Disco’ as its stunning as its stunning festivefestive wreaths wreaths that that sign, everything the brim the with brim wrapping with wrapping paperpaper and and sign, everything aboutabout its enchanting its enchanting have been have carefully been carefully chosen chosen to adorn to adorn display presents presents while while there there are conscious are conscious display has been has expertly been expertly considered considered both front both doors. front doors. gift ideas for allfor ages. all ages. to entice to entice shoppers shoppers in from in from the cold. the cold.gift ideas | boutique. | boutique. | 35 | 35 DECEMBER DECEMBER 2023 2023

Christmas cheer

CRANE AND KIND

t’s the most wonderful time of the year! So to celebrate the season, we pick out some of our favourite indie window displays bringing joy to shoppers on high streets around the country… DECEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 33

DECEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 3

10TH EDITION 4 - 6 FEBRUARY 2024

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boutique. DECEMBER 2023

DECEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 5

London Festival of Fashion A trade collective of global designers, brands, buyers, creative minds and inspiring trends.

Fashion Fix

ESSENTIAL NEWS FOR FASHION INDIES

PAUL BUFFINGTON ON UNSPLASH

Indie retail community expresses both relief and concern following Autumn Statement

ndependent retailers breathed a sigh of relief last month when the government announced it would extend business rates relief until 2025. Chancellor Jeremy Hunt unveiled an array of other measures in its latest Autumn Statement, including cuts to national insurance, changes to benefits, measures to boost housing supply and policies aimed at improving workbased skills. As well as the 75 per cent discount on rates for businesses in the retail, hospitality and leisure sectors, the government confirmed it will also freeze the small business multiplier for those with a rateable value less than £51,000 for another year. Tina McKenzie, policy chair at the Federation of Small Businesses (FSB), said the organisation welcomed the announcements: “Business rates are one of the absolute worst taxes faced by small firms. Size matters when it comes to rates, and the chancellor is absolutely right to have concentrated his firepower on helping the smallest firms at the heart of so many communities.

“Meanwhile, by acting to help small businesses with premises through freezing the small business multiplier, the government has prevented an inflation-linked hike for many of those in the supply chain and other sectors too. This will also help to make the rise in the National Living Wage more affordable.” But it wasn’t all good news for retailers. Hunt also announced a 6.4 per cent hike to standard business rates starting next year as well as an increase to the National Living Wage. Bira CEO Andrew Goodacre said these measures are concerning: “It was disappointing to see the standard multiplier increased by almost 7 per cent. There are many independent retailers who will now be paying more rates next year, as well as paying 10 per cent more on labour.” Meanwhile, Helen Dickinson from the British Retail Consortium is continuing calls for “a wholesale reform of our broken business rates system.” She says: “Retailers pay over £7 billion a year in business rates – over 22 per cent of the total raised by the tax. This must not continue; it is

imperative that we see parties commit to reforming the broken business rates system in their manifestos for the next general election.” Independent retail owners say they are largely pleased with the announcements but remain concerned for the future. Young Ideas’ Anne Wright comments: “We were eagerly anticipating an extension of business rates relief and are delighted to learn that it has been confirmed. “As a small business operating in the B2C sector, we remain hopeful for additional support tailored to independents, especially in light of escalating financial pressures exacerbated by announcements such as the upcoming increase in the national minimum wage. While we are committed to supporting our team, the impending challenge of absorbing this wage hike in 2024 poses significant concern. We are uncertain about the feasibility of recovering this cost through improved sales, which adds another layer of complexity to navigating the evolving economic landscape.” DECEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 7

FASHION FIX

Fashion and Textile Children’s Trust launches winter appeal The Fashion and Textile Children’s Trust (FTCT) has launched its first ever winter appeal to raise essential funds for the children of UK fashion and textile workers. The charity says it is already hearing from industry parents who are missing payments on household bills as a result of extra financial pressure this winter. More than 12,000 people visit FTCT’s website annually seeking information about its funding for essential items such as children’s clothing, bedroom furniture and white goods. CEO Anna Pangbourne comments: “Results from a recent survey conducted by our charity show that many industry parents are being kept awake at night worrying about paying their bills and affording everything their children need. “We know the difference that cosy winter bedding, warm coats and working cookers can have for a child’s

wellbeing, but sadly so many families across our industry are already going without.” FTCT hopes to raise £5,000 through the appeal – the equivalent of 200 duvets or 50 bundles of winter clothing. As a small charity, it send funds directly to families and 100 per cent of donations go towards funding its grants. Donations can be made online at ftct.org.uk or indie retailers can order a fundraising pack via fundraising@ftct.org.uk.

Biscuit Clothing and Living closes Edinburgh boutique Award-winning indie group Biscuit Clothing and Living has permanently closed its original shop on Edinburgh’s Thistle Street. Owner Amanda Mitchell, who founded the business in 2015, announced the closure on Instagram. “It’s where I began but definitely not where I’ll be finishing,” she said. “Our lease is nearly up, and I felt it was time

to hand over the keys to the next small business willing to take a risk, to jump in and see where the ride takes them. I leapt, I prayed, I cried, I squealed even – without Thistle Street, who knows?” The retail group’s other bricksand-mortar stores on Edinburgh’s Bruntsfield Place and Hyndland Road in Glasgow remain in operation

alongside its recently opened warehouse and office premises on the outskirts of Edinburgh.

Hyve appoints new leadership to strengthen Spring and Autumn Fair team Trade show organiser Hyve Group has appointed two new leaders to head the team behind its Spring and Autumn Fair events. Jackson Szabo joins as portfolio director while Soraya Gadelrab has been recruited as the show’s new event director. Hyve says the two senior appointments “will strengthen and revitalise 8 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

the leadership team” for its retail division’s shopping destinations to “help shape the future of the industry.” Nicola Meadows, divisional managing director for Hyve’s Retail, Manufacturing and Engineering division, comments: “We’re thrilled to introduce our two new leaders, Jackson Szabo and Soraya Gadelrab. Their fresh

perspectives and wealth of experience will undoubtedly invigorate our sector. Bringing together years of experience with a track record of innovation and success, these talented individuals will propel the team forward and set new standards within our industry.” The next edition of Spring Fair takes place from 4-7 February 2024 and Autumn Fair from 1-4 September 2024 at NEC Birmingham.

FASHION FIX

Boutique barometer INDUSTRY SALES FIGURES OCTOBER 2023 (VERSUS OCTOBER 2022)

-9.82% Henmores opens second store at Derbyshire’s revamped Peak Village Award-winning countrywear independent Henmores has opened the doors to a new 3,000sq ft bricksand-mortar store at countryside retail destination Peak Village. Part of the Young Ideas Group, the new store is located near Derbyshire’s Chatsworth Estate and joins Henmores’ flagship boutique in Ashbourne. Its latest shop stocks a curated edit of premium and lifestyle products for men and women from key brands including Barbour, Gant, Holland Cooper, Fairfax and Favor, Joules, RM Williams, Seasalt and White Stuff. Its interior includes an engaging blend of signature Henmores design

concepts such as a ‘boot wall’ and luxury changing rooms alongside new features like a relaxed seating area and contemporary displays, all in keeping with its ‘Chatsworth’ influenced location. “We’re thrilled to be opening a new Henmores store at Peak Village,” comments owner Anne Wright. “Henmores perfectly suits the Peak Village customer, location and Devonshire Group’s (Chatsworth Estate) vision. We are delighted to be expanding our Derbyshire based business locally with a like-minded partner and look forward to working together on exciting new initiatives.”

Average sales quantity

+ 0.98% Average selling price

-0.40% Profit margin These figures represent findings from a cross section of independent online and bricks-and-mortar retailers around the UK. Total stock management and EPoS provider Top to Toe has compiled this industry index to offer Boutique readers an insight into what’s happening on the high street and online. Tel: 0203 376 5888 E: info@toptotoe.com Toptotoe.com

Online shoppers expect speedy shipping and free returns, reveals study Online shoppers expect to receive products quicker than ever before, suggests new research by CommerceHub. In a global survey of 6,000 consumers, 78 per cent said they look for same day or next day shipping whenever making a purchase. Although most said they are willing to pay more for a quick delivery, the majority don’t want to be charged for returns. Over half (61 per cent) of the shoppers surveyed felt paying a fee to return online purchases was unfair, while 72 per cent stated they’d only buy from sites offering free returns. 10 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

With cost of living still a significant concern for many consumers, price remains the ultimate decision-driver for online shoppers, with 98 per cent considering it to be an essential factor in their purchasing choices. “Retailers lagging behind on speedy delivery need to re-prioritise,” advised CommerceHub’s Philip Hall. “The popularity of near-instant shipping from Amazon has fundamentally shifted consumer expectations around convenience. Quick logistics is no longer a nice-to-have but a baseline necessity. The impact of the returns process is also under appreciated in

SAHAND BABALI ON UNSPLASH

e-commerce. With three-quarters of consumers now insisting on buying from sites that offer free returns, brands must consider their approach. Returns hit profitability, so it will be interesting to see how retailers can balance these challenges and whether charging for returns en masse could re-train consumers to be more selective in their purchasing and discourage over ordering online.”

AW’24 Collection Launch 24th January - 11th February 2024 To view the AW’24 Collections, please contact: Email: beau.scarlett-pitt@gerryweber.com Telephone:+44 (0) 2074368383 Showroom Address: 4th Floor, 40-44 Newman Street, London W1T 1QD

FASHION FIX

For every season

Expertly crafted in Italy, Vivien Lauren produces exquisitely made leather footwear, bags and coats alongside a line of elegant scarves. Its timeless premium accessories will bring glamour to your fashion edit all year round. £POA; Tel: 07432 138 134 E: info@vivienlauren. co.uk vivienlauren.co.uk

Party perfect

Designed to strengthen and restore the skin’s natural barrier, Wildsmith Skin’s Super Hydrating Overnight Mask is the perfect antidote to Christmas indulgence. £POA; E: wholesale@wildsmithskin.com

THIS MONTH’S STANDOUT WOMENSWEAR AND ACCESSORIES

Winter warmer

Perfect for braving all weathers, Saint James’ waterrepellent windproof coat will keep shoppers warm and chic all winter. £168.30; book an appointment to view the AW24 collection via Tel: 07539 228 041 E: marc@doublehagency.com

Christmas tartan

Made from 100 per cent recycled plastic bottles, Shinjuku Lanes’ REplaid Oversized Vegan Mohair Scarf will give conscious shoppers a warm glow all winter. £POA; E: jennifer@shinjukulanes.com

12 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

Twinkle little stars An alternative version of its best-selling starburst hoops, Scream Pretty’s Starburst Chain Drop Hoop Earrings offer two trends into one. The dangling chains create interest and movement while the stars will bring added sparkle to outfits all year round. £18.50; Available in sterling silver with rhodium or 18ct gold plating, £18.50; tradescreampretty.com

We make you fall in love with

AW24

Visit our London Showroom from 22nd of Jan

Book now your appointment for AW24 marc@doublehagency.com 07539228041

www.doublehagency.com

FASHION FIX

Pastel perfection

The SS24 collection by modest womenswear brand Daska features beautifully made maxi dresses in the prettiest palette of icy green and blue hues. Created by young designer Maryam Khan, buyers can expect timeless silhouettes and sustainable fabrics throughout the stylish range. £POA; E: contact@crescentfashion.co.uk

Winter blues

Landing in stores this spring, Cyberjammies’ White Santorini Print pyjama top and shorts set are the perfect reminder that longer days and brighter skies are just ahead. Top, £10.21/ shorts £7.66; Tel: 0800 169 9755 E: customerserice@cyberjammies.co.uk

Boutique loves… GORGEOUS FASHION BUYS WE’RE FALLING FOR THIS DECEMBER

She's a star

Rex London offers a colossal choice of affordable gifts for trendy children, such as these cute Shooting Star Glitter Hair Clips. £POA; rexlondontrade.com

Ring the alarm

Creating hand-made jewellery for 40 years, Danish brand Pilgrim offers stylish and affordable pieces such as this recycled goldplated Chantal ring. £POA; 00456 333 333 E: b2b@pilgrim.dk

Stay warm

Magic Bodyfashion’s ladder resistant Magic tights feature a warm inner lining that gives the illusion of sheer hosiery. Style with skirts and dresses from now until spring. £POA; Tel: 0207 499 4598 magicbodyfashion.com 14 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

THE VERY BEST OF FASHION UNDER ONE ROOF B THREE (NEW) • ERFO • FRANK WALDER • TINTA & BARILOCHE (NEW) KRIS FASHION • MANISA • MARINA V • RELAXED BY TONI • TONI

SHOWING DATES: 22nd JANUARY - 29th FEBRUARY 2024 WE ARE NOT SHOWING AT ANY TRADE FAIRS

THE COLLECTIONS WILL ALL BE IN OUR LONDON SHOWROOM AND WE ARE VERY WELL EQUIPPED FOR VIRTUAL APPOINTMENTS IF YOU ARE NOT COMING TO LONDON.

35 Percy Street, London W1T 2DQ T: 020-7636-4207 • E: sales@partnersinfashion.co.uk

www.partnersinfashion.com

FASHION FIX

Deck the walls

Sustainable artwork specialist Abstract House supplies boutiques with quality prints on FSC certified paper. From florals and line drawings to colourful abstracts, there’s an option for every wall. £POA; trade.abstracthouse.com

Eco chic SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS AND BRANDS

Summer dreaming

Create the ultimate summer-inspired ear stack with Milly Grace’s Gold Starfish Huggies. Crafted in recycled 925 sterling silver and 18-carat gold plating, they look great teamed with dainty studs and ear cuffs. £POA; E: hello@millygrace.co.uk millygrace.com

Solar powered

Featuring super-soft itch-free merino wool sourced from regenerative New Zealand farms, Sheep Inc’s Reversible Scarf and Beanie are made using solar-powered zero-waste machines. £POA; E: theflock@sheepinc.com sheepinc.com

16 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

About time

Indie retailers can now receive by basics’ brushed wool and cotton/ wool doubleface collections in stores quicker than ever. Both collections are now being produced at the Danish slow fashion brand’s own factory in Poland, which can turn around orders in three to five weeks (expect longer in high season). All its pieces are made to order sustainably with no minimum requirements for retailers. £POA; bybasics.com

In great shape

Taking its cue from the iconic fishtail parka, Rains’ waterproof String W Parka features a flattering drawstring waist, hood with cap brim and handy side pockets. £POA; E: jc@rains.com

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Olympia London 14 - 16th January 2024

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FASHION FIX

#Grid goals

TOP POSTS WE’VE LIKED ON THE ‘GRAM THIS MONTH

@chloejameslifestyle

“THE CHLOE JAMES CHRISTMAS SHOPPING HELPLINE - Christmas Advert 2023. Budget £0, enthusiasm 100%. We hope this makes you smile…”

@the.curatedstore

“…£12.3 billion will be spent on Black Friday with businesses like Amazon…buy less but more personal and creative from small businesses.”

@shoploveone

“Happy Sunday. Back open tomorrow 11am- 3pm. We will be supporting Love Your High Street Week @biraretail #loveyourhighstreet”

@smallbizsatuk

“Small business owners are such a special bunch! We are blown away with your amazing support for @smallbizsatuk today!”

Social butterflies

THREE INSPIRATIONAL INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS TO FOLLOW NOW

@fentrepreneuruk

@judelawboutique

@thejacksonslondon

A campaign celebrating female entrepreneurs and leaders across the UK, follow F:Entrepreneur on Instagram for small-businessfriendly competitions and updates.

Northern Ireland indie Jude Law Boutique posts regular styling reels as well as giving followers an insight into what goes on behind the scenes at its store.

Showing off its colourful and joyful merchandise, the Instagram page for 25-year-old Nottinghill indie The Jacksons London will brighten up your feed.

18 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

31 JANUARY 1 FEBRUARY 2024 Curated by buyers, for buyers

The UK’s first womenswear show of 2024

INDX WOMAN Learn more at indxshows.co.uk Cranmore Park, Solihull, West Midlands

Stock Up

WHAT TO BUY NOW

LILY AND LIONEL X BRAMLEY

Press pause

ind your Christmas calm with our pick of the prettiest sleep and loungewear around…

DECEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 21

STOCK UP

Bedtime story COSY UP UNTIL SPRING IN OUR EDIT OF LUXURIOUS NIGHTWEAR

hether worn for sleeping or lounging, these stylish pyjamas, robes and accessories will have shoppers wishing the long nights would last forever (almost)…

KIMONO, ONE HUNDRED STARS, £POA

IVORY PYJAMAS, SILK WORKS LONDON, £POA

KIM KIMONO, CHALK, £38 SILK KIMONO, KAYLL, £POA

PILLOW MIST, VOCA, £POA

COTTON PYJAMAS, THEIR NIBS, £POA

SLIPPERS, MOU, £POA

22 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

STOCK UP LAVENDER FILLED EYE MASK, CHALK, £6.50

AURORA SILK PILLOWCASE, FABLE ENGLAND, £POA

EVIE PYJAMAS, LILY AND LIONEL, £POA

ORGANIC COTTON ROBE, NUDEA, £POA

PYJAMAS, REBECCA RHOADES, £POA

NOCTURNAL GARDEN PYJAMAS, FABEL ENGLAND, £POA

HOT WATER BOTTLE, CHALK, £8.25 CANDLE, LILY AND LIONEL X BRAMLEY, £POA CHALK wholesale.chalkuk.com, FABLE ENGLAND E: trade@fableengland.com, KAYLL E: dody@blackpr.co.uk, LILY AND LIONEL faire.com, MOU Tel: 0208 421 7070 fabfootwear.net, NUDEA E: info@nudea.com, ONE HUNDRED STARS Tel: 01142 727 852 E: sales@onehundredstars.co.uk, REBECCA RHOADES Tel: 0113 245 5187 E: info@rebeccarhoades.com, SILK WORKS LONDON E: hello@silkworkslondon.com, VOCA E: ebla@voca.london

DECEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 23

STOCK UP

New year newness

SIX OF THE BEST JEWELLERY AND ACCESSORIES BRANDS TO SEE AT JANUARY’S TOP DRAWER

eturning to Olympia London from 1416 January, this season’s Top Drawer promises to transport visitors into a retail wonderland. Buyers can expect a show bursting with newness, cutting-edge design, industry insights and more - offering the perfect way to kickstart the new year. Spanning three days, the show will welcome over 10,000+ visitors through its doors who will

be immersed in a world of contemporary design. Thousands of new products will be presented across nine expertly curated destinations - including its hugely popular Fashion sector. Each exhibitor is carefully chosen to ensure buyers can source the most cutting-edge products and pieces from across the entire lifestyle spectrum. Here are six standout accessories and jewellery brands joining this season’s fashion line-up…

The next edition of Top Drawer takes place on 14 – 16 January 2024; register and find out more via topdrawer.co.uk

KIND BAG

CALIZ LONDON

ondon based Colombian designer Martha Lizarazo creates ethical and sustainable jewellery pieces made from Vegetable Ivory seed with her team of highly skilled artisans. Her designs reflect the fusion of two fashion worlds - Latin culture and heritage as well as British styles and trends. By designing and producing pieces made from her country’s unique and eco-friendly natural raw materials, the designer’s aim is to have a positive impact on both the environment and local communities. Today she is proud to create handcrafted jewellery with a range that not only provides high quality craftsmanship and innovative designs, but truly unique products with heart and soul.

aria Rodriguez founded Kind Bag in 2019 with a mission to create high-quality designs that bridged the gap between sustainability, style and colour. Growing up in Tenerife surrounded by the ocean, she developed an early appreciation of the natural world. Despite initially pursuing a career in law, Maria's quest for a stylish, sustainable and sturdy shopping bag led to the birth of Kind Bag and its first product, the reusable bag. The idea behind the brand was simple yet impactful - the world needed a bag that was not only strong for everyday use but also stylish and vibrant enough to add joy to any outfit. Maria’s relentless pursuit of sustainability, female empowerment and a colourful world is at the heart of the brand’s ethos today. 24 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

STOCK UP

M’ESSENTIEL LONDON

MY DORIS

’Essentiel London was conceived in 2018 from its founder’s desire to merge Western and Eastern culture while bringing colour and texture with the highest standard of craftsmanship to the modern man. He says: “During my childhood days, luxury was measured by its uniqueness and immeasurable skill of craftsmanship. Growing up near the foothills of the Himalayas and witnessing the art of traditional carpet making made me appreciate and realise that true quality can last generations and is all about preservation. Every piece told a story, and no two pieces were identical, even if the design was the same.” Wanting to bring the same level of care, passion and quality to the brand, M’Essentiel only uses the very best natural sustainable materials and skilled artisans from Britain, Italy and Kashmir to make its pieces. These are made in small quantities to ensure perfection, resulting in quality pieces that last a lifetime.

emale-owned brand My Doris was founded in 2017 by Katie Williamson. Born from her love of vintage jewellery and appreciation for artisan craftsmanship, its founder has a keen eye for great design. My Doris is a true reflection of Katie's spirit and at the very heart of its story are its artisan partners and handcrafted approach to production. Travels and roamings in different worlds have connected Katie with many talented designers and producers from across the globe. Traditions, techniques, textures and tones from India, Uzbekistan, Turkey and Vietnam give every My Doris piece a unique imprint and quality. Today, just six years after its initial launch, the brand is stocked by over 700 boutiques and independent shops across the UK and Europe.

VURCHOO

ESTELLA BARTLETT

esigner Alex AngelBenscher founded Vurchoo in early 2015 after receiving funding from The Prince’s Trust. Her initial idea for the brand came into fruition while travelling through Cambodia and watching street children doing what they could to survive. Some were selling whatever they could muster, including their own homemade creations. Vurchoo’s Studs of Hope is an evergreen collection of affordable jewellery that simultaneously represents and supports the countries its designs are inspired by. Featuring ethically sourced gold, silver, mixed metals and gemstones, the range was created to bring ethical jewellery to the masses. By purchasing one of the Studs of Hope pieces, Vurchoo gives 10-25 per cent of profits to charities in the UK and overseas.

F F

ounded in 2011 by brother and sister duo Nick and Louise Bartlett, Estella Bartlett creates jewellery and accessories with strong attention to detail. Its pieces are made using recycled brass with sterling silver or 18-carat gold plating. Buyers can choose from two compelling ranges: an entry-level selection, which includes giftable jewellery and storage solutions, as well as its premium Edit collection for a higher price point. The Estella Bartlett Edit focuses on essential jewellery that complements every style no matter the occasion. Its carefully chosen pieces strike the perfect balance between simplicity and statement. Expect chains that are perfect for layering alongside distinctive earrings and chunky necklaces. Each is finished with premium touches that make wearing everyday jewellery effortless. DECEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 25

NEW COLLECTIONS

Expertly crafted ADD CLASSIC SPANISH FASHION TO YOUR NEW YEAR LINE-UP WITH SISTER LABELS TINTA AND BARILOCHE

orn in a small workshop in Madrid in 1985, Spanish sister labels Tinta and Bariloche offer quality womenswear with a distinctive design signature. Tinta’s collection includes beautiful feminine dresses, knitwear, separates and outstanding blouses while Bariloche specialises in tailored tweed jackets, blazers, vintage shirts, premium blouses, coats, well-fitting trousers, jersey tops and knitwear. Its range also includes a stunning line of affordable occasionwear. Now represented by Partners in Fashion across South England and Wales, the brands are

already popular throughout Europe thanks to their timeless garments and attention to detail. Each collection is only produced in limited runs, making it the ideal choice for indies looking for unique products. The brands are also dedicated to slow fashion, working to minimise their environmental impact however possible. This includes adopting organic cottons and sustainable viscose for all its collections as well as manufacturing most of its garments in Spain. Partners in Fashion will unveil both brands’ AW24 collections at its Central London showroom from the beginning of 2024.

CONTACT: Tel: 0207 636 4207 partnersinfashion.com

Feminine touch

TAIFUN BRINGS SOPHISTICATION AND GLAMOUR TO EVERYDAY WARDROBES WITH ITS FRESH TAKE ON WOMENSWEAR

est known for its tailoring, coordinates and dresses, Taifun takes shoppers from every day to glamorous with ease. The label’s design team adds quirky twists to everyday staples, creating a versatile collection with strong appeal. Each garment is designed to be special - whether it’s through playful details, feminine shapes, joie de vivre prints or vibrant colourways. For AW24, the collection draws inspiration from nature, focusing on the contrasting interplay between colour and neutrality with a

twist of sophisticated sparkle. Playing to Taifun’s strengths, printed and embellished tailoring takes centre stage juxtaposed with a dynamic denim capsule. Meanwhile, statement outerwear premiers this season to complement its playful yet feminine knitwear. Each colour story showcases texture and colour alongside dynamic print stories, drawing inspiration from modern geometric shapes and watercolour motifs. RRP prices range from £70 for tops and blouses and £190 for coats while there is no minimum order requirement.

CONTACT: Tel: 0207 436 8383/ 0777 592 3353 E: beau.scarlett-pitt@gerryweber.com gerryweber.com/en-eu/brands/taifun 26 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

19 - 21 MARCH 2024

HONG KONG Bags | Footwear | Leathergoods | Travelware Fashion Accessories | Leather Garments

www.aplf.com

PARTYWEAR ACCESSORIES

Fashion Extras GEMMA WARD PICKS OUT THIS MONTH’S BEST FOOTWEAR, BAGS AND JEWELS

Warm up

Sweet dreams

Designed to prepare the body for a restful night’s sleep, Vocā’s rollerballs, pillow sprays and diffuser blends boast natural therapeutic ingredients to create a serene bedtime environment. £POA; E: ebla@voca.london

Lasting love

Expertly handcrafted in sustainably sourced materials, Mou’s iconic sheepskin Eskimo boots are finished with its trademark handcrotchet wool stitching. £POA; Tel: 0208 421 7070 fabfootwear.net

Handmade in London using traditional artisanal techniques, Navvy sources its leathers from ethical manufacturers to create conscious bags that are built to last. £POA; E: dody@blackpr.co.uk

Spring florals

Whatever the weather

Hit refresh on your new year skincare line-up with Dalia Botanique’s rejuvenating Botanical Serum, handmade in the Yorkshire countryside. £POA; E: info@daliabotanique.co.uk 28 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

Crafted in the brand’s signature waterproof PU fabric, Rains’ versatile Box Bag can be carried over the shoulder or worn as a cross-body for carrying everyday essentials in style. £POA; jc@rains.com

Design icon

Available in a plethora of colourways, Fjällräven’s iconic Kånken backpack is a timeless classic boasting hard-wearing fabric, heavy-duty handles and three handy pockets. £POA; E: sales@fenixoutdoor.co.uk

Low profile

Made with premium navy leather and finished with glitter stars, Cocorose London’s latest low-top Hoxton trainers offer all day comfort and style. £POA; Tel: 0208 829 8919 cocoroselondon.com

Limited edition

Based in London with roots in Pakistan, Moushe founder Nabiha Yousuf produces contemporary sustainable jewellery pieces in small volumes to reduce waste. £POA; E: dody@blackpr.co.uk

ACCESSORIES

Steal the show

London-based milliner Merve Bayindir creates show-stopping special occasion headwear such as this Santana headband with hot pink feathers and black crystals. £POA; E: dody@blackpr.co.uk mervebayindir.com

Sustainable update

Launching next month, L’Occitane has updated its best-selling Shea Butter Hand Cream with new mono-plastic packaging that can be recycled with household waste. £POA; E: contact@loccitane.co.uk

Everyday essential

The perfect finishing touch for everyday outfits, Samsøe Samsøe’s worn-in baseball cap will look great pared with everything from chic slip dresses to jeans and a blazer. £POA; E: vitus@samsoe.com

Ancient influences

Italian jewellery brand Retro Chic creates earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings inspired by classical designs dating back thousands of years. £POA; E: contact@crescentfashion.co.uk retrochicitaly.com

Sleep easy

Filled with therapeutic Cotswold lavender, Chalk’s Luxury Fur Eye Mask has been designed to aid relaxation and promote a restful night’s sleep. 2pk £18; wholesale.chalkuk.com

Storage solution

Great for organising clothes, accessories and cosmetics, Kind Bag’s set of three handy stand-up pouches are made from 100 per cent recycled and recyclable material. £POA; E: hello@kindbag.co

Winter sun

Made from innovative soft stretch fabric, Modibodi’s swimwear boasts unique patented technology that helps control odours, light to moderate bleeding and bladder leaks. £POA; modibodi.co.uk/ pages/ wholesale-enquiry

Snake charms

Drawing inspiration from Ancient Egypt, Scream Pretty’s dainty Sparkling Snake Huggies are embellished with clear cubic zirconia and green nano stones. £13.50; tradescreampretty.com

Floral dreams

Lily and Lionel’s Sleepover collection created in collaboration with British brand Bramley features its timeless floral print across nightwear and matching accessories. £POA; faire.com DECEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 29

DIARY DATES

Making plans KEY DATES AND DESTINATIONS FOR YOUR AW24 BUYING CALENDAR

O MDA INTERNATIONAL

BRANDS: Mama b, THING, Mes Soeurs et Moi, Papucei and Blueberry SHOWING AT: Origin, Clifton, Bristol (4 – 6 February); The Fitzrovia Hotel, London, Fitzrovia (10 – 15 February); Whitworth Locke, Manchester, Civic Quarter (18 – 22 February); East Sussex (29 January – 8 March). CONTACT: Tel: 07813 925 975 E: info@mdainternational.co.uk mdainternational.co.uk/ follow on Instagram @mdainternational

DIANE SYKES FASHION

BRANDS: Gustav, Whyci, APoil Cashmere, Fee G SHOWING AT: Asia House, 63 New Cavendish St, London W1G 7LP (7 - 22 February); Harrogate Fashion Week, Harrogate Convention Centre (4 – 6 February; Fee G and APoil Cashmere only) Scoop, Olympia West (11 – 13 February; Gustav and Whyci only). CONTACT: Tel: 07906 070081 E: diane@dianesykesfashion.com dianesykesfashion.com 30 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

nce the Christmas decorations have been taken down, it’ll be time to for the AW24 buying season to begin. Here are some key showing dates to add to your new year hit list…

APT COLLECTIONS INTERNATIONAL

BRANDS: Alembika, Alquema, Elsewhere, Igor, Knit Knit, Ozai N ku, Philomena Christ, TKS, Urban SHOWING AT: The Triangle, 5-17 Hammersmith Grove, London (28 Jan – 15 Feb); Elliot House, 151 Deansgate, Manchester (18 – 22 Feb). CONTACT: E: claudia@aptcollections.ltd.uk/ nigel@aptcollections.ltd.uk Tel: 07734 942 382/ 07771 597 166 aptcollections.co.uk

PARTNERS IN FASHION

BRANDS: B Three, Erfo, Frank Walder, Kris Fashion, Manisa, Marina V, Relaxed by Toni, Tinta and Bariloche, Toni SHOWING AT: 35 Percy Street, London, W1T 2DQ from 22 January – 29 February (Frank Walder from 30 January – 29 February; collection one ends on 14 February). CONTACT: Tel: 0207 636 4207 E: cathy.vandeputte@ partnersinfashion.co.uk partnersinfashion.com

SALLY DAWES AGENCY BRANDS: Estheme Cashmere, Sfizio, Rialto48, Maud & Sacha Merinos, Cristina Beautiful Life SHOWING AT: Royal Society of Medicine, 1 Wimpole Street, London, W1G 0AE (5 – 22 February). CONTACT: Tel: 07769 970 387 E:sally@sallydawes.com sallydawes.com

TOR FASHION

BRANDS: Frank Lyman, Orientique, Cream, Coco Y Club, Ispirato, Condici SHOWING AT: Exeter Court Hotel, Exeter (21 - 22 Jan and 3 - 4 March); Park Farm Hotel, Norwich (22 - 24 Jan and 8 March); Asia House, London (28 Jan - 1 Feb and 11 - 13 Feb); Harrogate Fashion Week (Frank Lyman and Orientique only; 4 - 6 Feb); The Best Western Connaught Hotel, Bournemouth (8 Feb); The Mercure Hotel, Swansea (18 - 19 Feb and 5 March). CONTACT: Tel: 07855 481 651 E: tor@torfashion.co.uk

DIARY DATES PHOTO BY GABRIELLE HENDERSON ON UNSPLASH

DECEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 31

Down to Business

INSIGHT FOR FASHION INDIES

Christmas cheer

CRANE AND KIND

DOWN TO BUSINESS 1

Spreading joy

HERE’S PROOF (IF IT WAS EVER NEEDED) THAT INDIE RETAILERS CREATE THE MOST MAGICAL CHRISTMAS WINDOWS ON THE HIGH STREET

rom glitter balls to twinkling fairy lights, town and city centres around the country have come alive this Christmas with beautiful festive window displays. Independent retailers are leading the way with unique installations designed to inspire and excite shoppers. Here are six of our favourites…

1. LAST NIGHT I DREAMT, SOUTHWELL

Contemporary jewellery independent Last Night I Dreamt has transformed its shop front into a winter wonderland - complete with a working snow machine. Owner Rebecca Gibbions, who has been dreaming up the installation’s concept since February, drew inspiration from Hans Christian Andersen’s The Little Fir Tree to create the design. She enlisted local artist Anna Wheelhouse to create a stunning 34 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

bespoke mural in the shop’s front porch before adding real Christmas trees, foliage, mistletoe, lights, pinecones and woodland creature ornaments. Magical.

2. THE DRESSING ROOM, ST ALBANS

Perfectly epitomising a glitzy, glamorous festive season, The Dressing Room’s Christmas windows combine party sequins with sparkling decorations. The award-winning store’s pared back display gives its exterior a sophisticated aesthetic as four mannequins model its musthave pieces against a backdrop of disco balls, mirrors and twinkling silver beads. We particularly love its thought-provoking window graphics: ‘Life is like a disco ball… no matter how the music changes, you keep on dancing.’ Think a night at out Studio 54 - but at Christmas.

3. CRANE AND KIND, SIDMOUTH

Fondly known as ‘the pink shop’ among locals, Crane and Kind’s Christmas windows are the icing on the cake of its pretty façade. This year its team – led by co-founding sisters Polly McLachlan and Jemma Lascelles – have created a disco-themed display featuring glitter balls, giant musical notes and twinkling lights. Offering everything under one roof for stylish mums and kids, passing shoppers can view the store’s latest childrenswear, gifts and partywear ideas while taking in some joyful Christmas magic.

DOWN TO BUSINESS 3

4. IRIS & VIOLET, STAMFORD AND CAMBRIDGE

5. CHLOE JAMES, ST ALBANS

Whether strolling past its Cambridge boutique or triple-fronted Stamford shop, Iris and Violet’s Christmas windows will evoke some festive cheer. Both shop fronts have been given a yuletide update with suspended glitter baubles, illuminated stars, twinkly fairy lights and decorated foliage. We love the pastel hues that are perfectly in-keeping with its new season collections as well as its stunning festive wreaths that have been carefully chosen to adorn both front doors.

Making a big impact with a small shop front space, womenswear independent Chloe James Lifestyle’s party-perfect window features sparking sequins, gift ideas and luxe decorations. Everything on display is available to purchase in-store and online, from the black velvet ‘Merry Christmas’ bunting and honeycomb paper baubles to the pretty fairy sitting on top of the tree. Finished off with a dazzling neon ‘Kitchen Disco’ sign, everything about its enchanting display has been expertly considered to entice shoppers in from the cold.

6. MOO AND BOOM, WHITCHURCH

Sustainable lifestyle indie Moo and Boom has encapsulated the magic of Christmas Eve with its nightsky-themed window installation. Its incredibly detailed ‘snow village’ display includes everything you’d want in a Christmas scene - from (eco-friendly) houses and skiing snowmen to ice-skating polar bears and flying reindeer. Santa’s sleigh is also suspended mid-air and filled to the brim with wrapping paper and presents while there are conscious gift ideas for all ages. DECEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 35

DOWN TO BUSINESS

AMY SHAMBLEN ON UNSPLASH

Many happy returns

HOW TO MINIMISE THE ONSLAUGHT OF CHRISTMAS RETURNS THIS JANUARY, BY ZIGZAG’S AL GERRIE

s Christmas approaches, the importance of returns gets bigger and bigger for independent fashion retailers. While this time of year hopefully brings more sales, it also tends to cause a spike in the number of products returned to the store. Therefore, it’s essential for retailers to adopt a flexible, customer-centric approach to prepare for all possible outcomes, whether it’s shoppers purchasing multiple outfit options for the Christmas party only to return all but one or parcels being damaged while in Santa’s sleigh. The festive season is often a make-or-break time for retailers of all shapes and sizes. However, it is especially critical for small businesses. The margins are tighter for companies operating one or two stores compared to big name brands with thousands of regular customers. From our recent research, we know that 84 per cent of shoppers check the returns policy before making a 36 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

purchase and over half (53 per cent) have decided not to buy an item because they didn’t like the returns policy. So, the room for error with returns when you’re a small business is virtually non-existent. First and foremost, communication with your customers is key. Establishing clear and easily accessible return policies on your website and social media platforms helps set expectations. Be transparent and make everything as visible as possible - don’t shy away from it. Clearly outline the returns window, conditions and any associated fees. A straightforward policy not only informs shoppers but also builds trust and demonstrates your commitment to the customer experience. Similarly, leveraging technology is crucial for small businesses looking to streamline the returns process. Build a website that incorporates an intuitive and user-friendly returns portal. Ensure that customers can easily initiate returns, track the

status of their return and receive timely updates. This will mean you spend less time handling the logistics of returns, allowing you to track stock and restock more quickly - freeing you up to drive more sales. For businesses selling on marketplace platforms like Trouva, maintaining a cohesive brand experience is crucial. Ensure that your product listings are accurate and provide comprehensive information. High-quality images, detailed descriptions and accurate sizing information can reduce the likelihood of customers receiving items that don't meet their expectations. We know that 45 per cent of UK shoppers buy multiple items with the intention of returning at least one; a phenomenon known as “wardrobing”. Ensuring consistent sizing will eliminate the number of wardrobers, and in turn, reduce the number of returns to help protect the bottom line. I’d also recommend implementing a post-purchase follow-up strategy. Personalised thank you emails or messages expressing gratitude for their holiday purchase go a long way in driving repeat purchase. Including helpful tips on product care and usage can also reduce the chances of returns due to misunderstandings or dissatisfaction. Finally, there are now many more options than the traditional return that shoppers prefer and also help the retailer save the sale and retain the revenue. An impressive 83 per cent of shoppers said they would be interested in a simple exchange solution and 57 per cent would be happy to accept a gift card. These alternatives to refunds are growing in popularity with retailers and shoppers. Overall, offering convenience, flexibility and choice is the key to managing and driving lower return rates as well as fostering ongoing customer loyalty. Al Gerrie is founder and CEO for returns specialist ZigZag, which utilises the latest tech to transform the returns experience for global retailers; zigzag.global.

A lifeline for families since 1853 We’re the only organisation dedicated to supporting the children of people who work in the ritish fashion and textile industry. From boardroom to boutique, studio to warehouse, we’re here for every parent who finds themselves unable to afford essential items like clothes, bedroom furniture or study equipment for their child.

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Finalist

FROM MY MOTHER’S GARDEN ..

Limited edition clothing in exclusive prints capturing the magical beauty of nature. BOUTIQUE MAGAZINE’S BRITISH BRAND OF THE YEAR AWARD WINNER 2022 frommymothersgarden.co.uk | info@frommymothersgarden.co.uk | 07825 148040

Shop Talk

INDUSTRY OPINION GEORGIA DE LOTZ ON UNSPLASH

New beginnings

ith a new year just on the horizon, we ask the owners of six leading indie retailers to share their hopes and dreams for the next 12 months ahead… DECEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 39

SHOP TALK

Goodbye 2023

6 INDIE OWNERS REVEAL THEIR BEST AND WORST MOMENTS FROM THE PAST 12 MONTHS AS WELL AS THEIR HOPES FOR THE NEW YEAR

t’s been another tough year for retail. From rising inflation to unseasonable weather, the past 12 months have presented numerous challenges for fashion indies. But as the nation’s love for independent shops, a personal service and carefully chosen products grows, there’s much optimism for the new year. Here six leading indie owners share their hopes and aspirations for 2024…

“Next year we hope the level of sales we’ve achieved in 2023 continues” Jan Shutt, Sunday Best

“W

e’re selling lots of accessories at the moment to shoppers looking for Christmas presents. We’ve recently installed a gift-wrapping station in store - making life so easy for customers (especially men)! We have also just held two in-store events and another external event for two cancer charities, helping to raise in excess of £10,000. “Being presented with the Boutique Star Awards Lifetime Achievement trophy is among my most memorable moments of 2023. However, there have been challenges this year. The hectic pace my team and I work under every day because we are so busy while trying to ensure a consistent level of service can be very demanding. Duties and imports have also proven to make life more difficult as a multi-brand retailer stocking international labels. 40 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

“Next year we hope that we continue to have the level of sales that we have achieved for 2023. If we can improve on that even marginally, I will be happy. My main focus for 2024 will be on continuing the search for new collections, keeping our creative spirit buzzing and maintaining the strong relationships we have with our suppliers.”

SHOP TALK

“Our standout moment was winning Drapers’ Womenswear Independent of the Year” Rachel Hunt and Sally Gott, Sass and Edge

“T

his year has certainly been interesting! Our standout moment, which we will remember for years to come, was winning Womenswear Independent of the Year at the Drapers’ Independents Awards 2023. “But it hasn’t been an easy 12 months. The weather has been pretty challenging and there have also been times when we’ve not felt supported by some of our agents. We have also struggled with quality issues from several brands and some we placed forward orders with for 2024 have suddenly gone out of business.

“We have spent the past couple of months preparing for the festive season. In November we hosted two Christmas events, which we followed up with another one during the first week of December with one of our designers. We will also hold a special shopping weekend during the final Saturday and Sunday before Christmas to drive extra sales. “For 2024, we are hoping to continue showing good growth as a business and we also have a couple of exciting projects up our sleeves.”

“2023 has been an exceptional year” Anne Wright, Young Ideas

“T

here are so many memorable moments to choose from this year! We celebrated 15 years of Young Ideas under my ownership in May with a fabulous party at our flagship boutique attended by loyal customers, suppliers and the local business community. In October, we opened a new 3,000sq ft store for our Henmores brand at Peak Village, Derbyshire. And on a personal note, my eldest daughter was married in June - so 2023 has been an exceptional year. “We are currently doing well with sales of sparkly but comfortable party wear and ‘mirror metallic’ bags and accessories. Our collections from Barbour and Holland Cooper are also proving very popular for more relaxed occasions. “Earlier this month we hosted an in-store Christmas fashion show followed by lunch at a local boutique hotel to promote our festive offer. We also joined the celebrations in Ashbourne with late-night shopping and a magical lantern parade through the town centre.

“But there have been some challenges this year too, particularly due to rising costs. This has had an impact in terms of running our business and we can see that these factors are also affecting our customers and their propensity to spend on clothing. “We hope that 2024 brings some recovery in public confidence and an appetite for customers to treat themselves more.” DECEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 41

SHOP TALK

“We are hoping this ‘golden quarter’ puts us in good stead for 2024” Shirley Leader, Velvet and Rose

“I

have two standout moments from this year. The first was when Amy, our intern who has a rare form of Down's Syndrome, accepted an employed position with us. We have watched her grow from day one into a confident and happy young lady. The second was winning a Boutique Star Award for Community Hero of the Year. We’re still on cloud nine from that! “But, like a lot of small businesses, we’ve also found 2023 tough. Footfall has been unpredictable, mainly because of the unseasonable weather and cost of living crisis. While we have loyal customers, many folks are careful about where

they spend their money - often going around the whole town first before returning to us. “We are hoping this ‘golden quarter’ puts us in good stead for 2024. We recently took part in a shopping night with other independents in Petersfield offering fizz and freebies. It's good to bring some cheer into town, especially when it comes from the independent shops. “Next year we need more consumer confidence. We need customers to spend more with local businesses or we feel that many more independents will close. We have recently heard of at least six well

known boutiques closing by the end of 2023. All boutiques need a big step change in their businesses to make it worthwhile to continue to trade. We wish them all well!”

“A period of calm is what I would ask Father Christmas for this year” Sarah Simonds, Artichoke

“H

onestly, 2023 is a year I would rather forget! It has been very challenging, not only in business but also in the private lives of myself and some team members. “Artichoke has been our sanctuary. Our customers have made us laugh and make us feel loved as well as continuing to support us as a business. A real positive is that our online business continues to grow, which also stretches us as we learn new skills almost daily. “We had a horrid summer in the shop and, like everyone else in the industry, really didn’t need the hot weather to arrive at the same time 42 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

as our winter stock. Turnover in the shop has however picked up since October, although as usual it fell off the edge of a cliff during Black Friday. If we didn’t have an income stream from our website, I would be quite despondent. “This month we will be running our 12 days of Christmas email and social media campaign with daily promotions. This month we suddenly started selling lots of handbags, so I’m expecting these to be our Christmas best sellers. “A period of calm is what I would ask Father Christmas for this year. As small business owners it seems that we have been

expected to react to situations that are far beyond our control for one too many years now. So please, no more Brexit, pandemics, ‘Trussonomics’ or wars!”

SHOP TALK

“I would love to see a resurgence of shoppers returning to the high street next year” Abigail Edmunds, Domino Style

“M

y most memorable moment of 2023 was becoming a multi-awardwinning boutique and being recognised within the industry. We were named Fashion Independent of the Year at the Boutique Star Awards and also took home the Best Use of Social Media accolade at Drapers’ Independents Awards. “To help drive extra sales this festive season we are hosting Christmas parties across both our physical stores along with promotions and gift ideas.

Accessories are selling well both in-store and online at the moment as well as our jewellery pieces and gifting options. “Despite our award wins, we have really found 2023 our most challenging year yet in the industry – and that’s due to a number of factors. I would love to see a resurgence of shoppers returning to the high street next year and local councils helping out the small businesses that are riding out this storm and keeping the high street alive!”

Planning your New Season collections and showing dates? We are now booking all print and digital campaigns for SS24 collections Please contact the team on 01795 515288 julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk Boutique-magazine.co.uk

DECEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 43

SHOP TALK

“2024 is likely to be another challenging year for independent retail” BIRA CEO ANDREW GOODACRE UNRAVELS THE GOVERNMENT’S LATEST AUTUMN STATEMENT

very year there is a time when the owners of businesses large and small listen very carefully to what the chancellor has to say. The Autumn Statement, delivered in October or November, is when the government announces its spending and savings plans for the next financial year. It may all seem a little insignificant when retailers are focused on the so-called ‘golden quarter,’ but it is so important. Firstly, the good news: the current retail discount on business rates will remain in place. This discount reduces business rates by 75 per cent (up to a cash value of £110,000) and has a significant positive impact on a major business overhead. A retail discount has been in place since 2019 and it was introduced on the back of some lobbying by Bira. However, it’s only a temporary measure, so every autumn we wait anxiously to see if it will be retained for another year. RED CHARLIE ON UNSPLASH

44 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

Bira campaigned long and hard to secure this discount. We spoke to the business minister and treasury department, we responded to the consultation, wrote letters to MPs and worked with other retail groups. In truth this discount is a lifeline to so many small retailers and it’s important to our sector that it is retained. Ideally, we would like to see it made permanent, which is why we work so hard to ensure it stays in place. It feels good to know the chancellor listened to us. However, the Autumn Statement was not all good news. Jeremy Hunt also announced a 6.7 per cent increase in the standard business rates multiplier (the figure used to calculate the actual amount of rate each business pays). This multiplier increase will apply to businesses with a rateable value over £51,000, meaning some indies will pay more next year. This is disappointing. It also means the large chain will pay £400 million in business rates next year.

Then there’s the increase in national minimum wage, rising by 9.8 per cent from April 2024. This follows a similar increase this year and is also much higher than inflation. It is always difficult to argue against an increase in wage to the lowest paid people in the UK, and every retailer wants to see their employees earn a fair wage. The unseen difficulty though is the pressure it puts on retailers who have salaried staff and the expectations of these employees. Inevitably this wage increase will result in reduced hours or job losses in retail next year unless consumer spending increases. Finally, our sector desperately needs consumer spending and confidence to rise as we can only cut costs so far. The chancellor delivered a sobering message regarding economic growth: it will be very low next year. This is a concern as retail especially relies on economic growth to fuel consumer spending. It means that 2024 is likely to be another challenging year for independent retail. I remain hopeful that we will at least have some stability with inflation continuing to fall and interest rates no longer rising (and maybe even falling). Economic stability is important so consumers and business owners alike can plan ahead. Political stability would also be welcome, but we will have a general election next year. After this Autumn Statement, many people believe it could take place as soon as May 2024.

Fashion exports

PROMOTION

HOW UKPW IS PAVING THE WAY FOR UK FASHION INDIES TO SEND GOODS TO SHOPPERS IN THE EU

n the ever-evolving landscape of e-commerce, UK fashion retailers have been faced with a unique set of challenges when it comes to exporting goods to the EU. But as we strive to expand our horizons and reach a broader audience, solutions like UKP Worldwide (UKPW) are proving to be a game-changer. With its exceptional customs clearance and final mile delivery services, the company is helping UK retailers break down the barriers and serve their European customers with ease and reliability. Brexit brought about new customs procedures and regulations, complicating the process of exporting goods to

the EU. While the UK and EU may be neighbouring markets, trading across borders became more complex, and retailers faced uncertainty about how to effectively serve their European customers. This is where UKPW steps in, offering an expert solution to these challenges. The key to UKPW’s success lies in its commitment to providing a smooth and reliable service. With customs clearance expertise, it ensures that shipments comply with all necessary regulations, minimising the risk of delays and ensuring a hassle-free process. This means that UK retailers can focus on what they do best

without being bogged down by the intricacies of customs. But UKPW doesn't stop at customs clearance. Its final mile delivery service ensures that your products reach your customers' doorsteps swiftly and in pristine condition. This end-toend approach streamlines the entire process, from the moment your goods leave your warehouse to the moment they're joyfully unboxed by your EU customers. So, for fashion retailers seeking to flourish in the European market, UKPW will make sure your customers receive their goods with the same excitement you put into running your business.

CONTACT: Tel: 01844 398 880 E: info@ukpworldwide.com ukpworldwide.com

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SHOP TALK

“For today’s shoppers, it’s not so much about spending but investing in everlasting clothes” LUC LESÉNÉCAL IS THE PRESIDENT OF FRENCH HERITAGE BRAND SAINT JAMES

ith a fascinating history dating back to 1889, French womenswear and menswear label Saint James is the original purveyor of Breton tops, classic reefer jackets and fisherman-friendly sweaters. Here we speak to the brand’s Luc Lesénécal, who joined the brand as president in 2013, about the art of creating fashion with enduring quality…

Could you tell us a bit about the history of Saint James?

The brand has a great story that began more than 130 years ago. Its name comes from the place it was born: the village of Saint-James, near Normandy in Mont SaintMichel Bay. Saint James’ very first garment, a wool Breton top, was created in 1889 for local sailors and the French Navy. This style was then adopted as a fashion item by Coco Chanel, who used to frequent the area. Today Saint James is one of the region’s oldest companies and its life story is part of Norman history. It is a living heritage and stakeholder in an age-old tradition.

What are its best achievements to date?

Our DNA has not changed since the beginning. We are proud of our past and we don’t ever compromise on quality. Saint James was first awarded with the highly prestigious Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant mark (EPV) by the French government in 2012, which was then renewed in 2019 for another five years. This honour gives true recognition of our innovation, excellence, and expertise in knitting. We are a true symbol of exceptional French fashion - so much so that when French President Emmanuel Macron went on his first official USA visit, his gift to Joe Biden was a Saint James Cancale jumper.

What is the brand best known for?

There are few brands that embody French style like Saint James. We offer timeless basics such as the Reefer jacket, Matelot sweater and classic Breton sailor shirt. All styles are reworked every season to keep the collection fresh. Our designers span both technology and art, using ongoing research and innovative skills to remaster traditional materials and techniques. 46 | boutique. | DECEMBER 2023

What are your most iconic products?

Our genuine nautical sweater was inspired by those worn by fishermen to protect themselves from the weather at sea. Its knitting and tight fit offer incomparable qualities and comfort; it is warm, waterproof and highly resistant to wind and cold. It is the iconic garment for wearing out to sea, walking in the city or in the countryside because it is easy to wear, convenient and effortlessly chic. Saint James’ La Marinière (the Breton t-shirt) has also stood the test of time. Its story dates back to more than a century and a half ago when it was chosen as the official uniform for the French Navy. Some say the stripes were created to make it easier for spotting a man who fell overboard while others believe the specific number of stripes was set in reference to the 21 Napoleonic victories in various battlefields. The garment gradually became a favourite of fishermen and pleasure boaters for work or leisure. Today it is a legendary classic style that can be worn by everyone and never dates.

Why is Saint James a good retail partner for independent retailers in the UK?

We support our stockists with collaborations, by promoting the brand with unique people and – most importantly – by listening. We offer a loyal partnership with our retailers.

SHOP TALK

What effect has Brexit had on the business?

Logistics have become more challenging as there’s now a longer process for sending our goods to the UK. Prices have been affected and we have absorbed as much as we can, but increases in costs of materials, transportation and electricity have had a knockon effect. Our priority is quality - we would always rather increase price than decrease the quality of our garments.

How sustainable is Saint James?

Our garments are knitted using pure virgin wool from the Southern Hemisphere, which is spun in Europe and delivered to our workshops. Wool is 100 per cent recyclable and biodegradable – it is a very sustainable material. Plus, it’s easy to maintain and requires very little water to wash. Wool is low permeability so it’s

great for producing sweaters, cardigans and coats. It will withstand anything. As sailors are aware, wool can absorb more than 30 per cent of its weight without feeling wet to touch or losing its insulation properties. Using pure virgin wool for our garments guarantees high quality.

What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learnt in business this year?

2023 has been laborious and long but also stimulating. Beyond the ecological advantages, a complicated economic equation has arisen that must be solved. In a ready-to-wear market that continues to decline, consumers are increasingly careful about what they are spending. They are looking for loyalty and storytelling; it’s not so much about spending anymore, but investing in everlasting clothes. Shoppers are buying fewer products because

of rising inflation, and they are making smarter choices. Frenchmade products carry a high value that appeals to consumers, however price is the number one obstacle to purchase. We know cost will not go down and that prices will always remain higher in France than abroad. In my opinion, ‘Made in France’ only has a future if it capitalises on exceptional know-how, as recognised by the EPV mark.

What are your hopes for the brand in 2024?

Our biggest wish for next year is to keep going with +5 per cent growth as we’ve achieved for the past few years. Our dream would be to open an exclusive Saint James boutique in London by 2025. Saint James is represented in the UK by Double H Agency; Tel: 07539 228 041 E: marc@doublehagency.com doublehagency.com DECEMBER 2023 | boutique. | 47

BUYER’S GUIDE Accessories Euroleathers Euroleathers are a supplier of premium shoe and leather care products and accessories. HQ: Ibex House, Ferrofields, Brixworth, Northampton NN6 9UA T: 01604 881 097 E: sales@euroleathers.com W: www.euroleathers.com From My Mothers Garden Contact name Penny Callaghan T: 07825 148040 / 01308 426517 E: info@frommymothersgarden.co.uk W: www.frommymothersgarden.co.uk Scream Pretty Company name - Lily Charmed Ltd Brand names - Scream Pretty Contact name - Lucy Lee T: 01753 424160 E: trade@screampretty.com W: tradescreampretty.com / screampretty.com Tempest Designs Fashion Jewellery, Handbags & Accessories Contact: Sarah Tempest T: 01656 842102 E: enquiries@tempestdesigns.co.uk W: www.tempestdesigns.co.uk

Business Futura Retail Solutions Ltd The Old Forge, The Street, Tidmarsh, Reading, Berkshire, RG8 8ER T: 01189 841925 E: sales@futurauk.com W: www.futura4retail.co.uk

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Top To Toe Lyonsdown House 23-29 Hendon Lane, London, N3 1RT Software Systems T: 020 3376 5888 E: info@toptotoe.com UKP WORLDWIDE UKP Worldwide (UKPW) are a customs agent specialising in customs clearance of low and high value eCommerce parcels including fully managed returns logistics and duty reclaim. UK Office | Unit 18‑19 Wornal Park | Menmarsh Road | Worminghall | Aylesbury | Bucks HP18 9JX T: +44 (0) 1844 398 880 W: ukpworldwide.com

Events and Exhibitions Boutique Star Awards Organiser : Boutique Professional Media Ltd T: Tel 01795 515288 E: Julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk Harrogate Fashion Week Harrogate Convention Centre W: harrogatefashionweek.com T: +44 (0)1423 623 701 / 07551329675 E: sarah@harrogatefashionweek.com Show Dates : 4-6 February 2024 Home and Gift Harrogate Convention Centre Organiser: Clarion Events W: homeandgift.co.uk Indx womenswear and footwear Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre Organiser: indx shows W: www.indxshows.co.uk

Messe Frankfurt France Texworld Evolution Paris 5 – 7 February 2023 Paris Porte de Versailles, Hall 7 E: visitorservice@france. messefrankfurt.com Moda/ Autumn and Spring Fair Organiser: Hyve Group Website: www.moda-uk.co.uk Pure London Organiser: Hyve Group Website: www.purelondon.com T: +44 (0)203 855 9550 E: visitor@purelondon.com Show Dates: 11 – 13th Feb 2024 Scoop Organiser: Hyve Ltd Website: scoop-international.com Show Dates: 11 – 13th Feb 2024 -Olympia West Top Drawer Olympia – London Organiser: Clarion Events W: topdrawer.co.uk Show Dates: 10 - 12th September

Footwear Caprice Shoes T: 07734 247 669 E: Capriceshoes@gmail.com W: www.capriceshoes.co.uk Facebook: /capriceshoes Lofina Agent: Joanna Edwards Agency T: 07989014141/ 07512550346 W: www.shoebox.dk

BUYER’S GUIDE Womenswear Anonymous To wear it is to love it T: 0161 819 5544 E: showroom@heenafashions.co.uk W: myfashionhouse.co.uk Apt Collections: Brands: Alembika, Alquema, Elsewhere, Igor, Knit Knit, Ozai N ku, Philomena Christ, TKS, Urban Contact: Nigel Hughes T: 020 7580 3202 W: www.aptcollections.co.uk By Basics Contact UK Agent: Jeremy@cates.co.uk W: Bybasics.com Carol C Collections Brands : Foil, Orientique ,Tirelli, Oopera , Moke , Tara Vao Contact : Carol ,Andrew and Lisa T: 0800 6129009 E: info@carolccollections W: www.carolccollections.com City Goddess/Goddiva/ Goddiva plus T: 0044 208 597 2744 E: sales@citygoddess.co.uk W: www.citygoddess.co.uk Dolcezza Europe Brands: Dolcezza and Ever Sassy European Office: T: +353-21-2038019 E: sales@dolcezzaeurope.ie Double H Agency Brands: Eden Park , St James . Contact: Marc Querol Linkedin - Facebook - Twitter Instagram W: www.doublehagency.com T: 02034326387 Extravagance Brands: Sarah Pacini, Thanny, Caraclan Contact: Nazma Chaudhry T: 07881 622 888 E: nazmachaudhry@gmail.com W: www.sarahpacini.com W: www.ny77design.com

Frank Lyman UK Customer Service T: 07368 175176 W: www.franklyman.com E: ukinfo@franklyman.com From My Mothers Garden Contact name Penny Callaghan T: 07825 148040 / 01308 426517 E: info@frommymothersgarden.co.uk W: www.frommymothersgarden.co.uk Leap N Link Ltd Brands: Pause Café , Fuego Woma – Oliver Philips – Bleu d’Azur Contact : Pierre & Bhavna T: 0161 713 1803 E: info@leapnlink.co.uk W:www.leapnlink.co.uk Lily & Me Amari Designs Ltd, Unit 15, Gabwell Business Park, Quadrant Distribution Centre, Hardwicke, Gloucester, GL2 2JH T: 01566 779477 / 01566 772121 E: enquiries@lilyandmeclothing. com info@lilyandmeclothing.com W: www.lilyandmeclothing.com MDA INTERNATIONAL Brands: Mama b, THING, Mes Soeurs et Moi, Papucei and Blueberry E: office@mdainternational.co.uk T: General: 020 7971 1084 Hannah: 07813925975 W: www.mdainternational.co.uk Instagram: mdainternational Nomads 9 Western Road, Launceston, Cornwall, PL15 7AR Contact: Shallon and Jo T: 01566 777 338 E: info@nomadsclothing.co.uk W: www.nomadsclothing.com Olivia Darcy Luxury Womenswear, designed and made in Yorkshire E: info@oliviadarcy.co.uk W: www.oliviadarcy.co.uk/

Partners In Fashion (2019) LTD Brands: B Three, Erfo, Frank Walder, Kris Fashion, Manisa, Marina V, Relaxed by Toni, Tinta and Bariloche, Toni 35 Percy Street London W1T 2DQ Contact: Cathy Vandeputte T: 020 7636 4207 E: cathy.vandeputte@ partnersinfashion.co.uk W: www.partnersinfashion.com Pomodoro Contact: Noreen and Hemant E: info@pomodoroclothing.com W: pomodoroclothing.com T: 0208 961 4000 Sally Dawes Agency Brands: Estheme Cashmere, Sfizio, Rialto48, Maud & Sacha Merinos, Cristina Beautiful Life T: 0776 997 03 87 E: sally@sallydawes.com W: www.sallydawes.com Tate Fashions Brands: Lizabella, I.nco, Ella Boo, Bella Premium & Gracie B E: tatefashions@hotmail.com T: 07712398549 01132459064 Tempest Designs Brand names: Sarah Tempest Fashion Jewellery, Handbags & Accessories Contact: Michael Webster T: 01656 842102 E: enquiries @tempestdesigns.co.uk W: www.tempestdesigns.co.uk Tor Fashion Brands: Coco-Y-Club. Condici, Cream, Frank Lyman, Orientique, Tirelli, Ispirato T: 07855 481651 E: info@torfashion.co.uk W: www.torfashion.co.uk Instagram: torfashionltd

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PA GE TI TL E

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