საქრთველო-ENG2018

Move Collection with Gigi Hadid

COME OVER TO THE SEA!

GEORGIA’S GASTRONOMIC

KUTAISI IS THE CITY…

OF THESE MOUNTAINS AND OF FORESTS

TELAVI

STYLE, LAID-BACK, HUMMING

THE SUPER-SAPERAVI ERA

THE ROAD TO THE MARANI

GORI

THE CITY OF A THOUSAND THOUGHTS

INTOXICATING WATER DREGS

I love the word “voyage”, because it implies discovery and experience. Exploring one’s own country as a voyager is something I relish for the same reason – traversing roads that you thought led to nowhere; rediscovering towns that you once knew like the back of your hand; getting to know people and listening to stories unlike any you’ve heard before – all the while enjoying the same sense of exhilaration you feel as if you’re exploring the country for the first time.

However, when we began planning the Georgia issue, we were concerned that we wouldn’t say anything new about Georgia, after all, VOYAGER is intended for exploring foreign countries, not one’s own homeland. Nevertheless, after reading through the first versions of the articles and after selecting the first photos, we gradually realized that we can also become adventure-seekers in our own country as well.

And so we got involved in the game – we looked at Georgian towns like Tbilisi, Batumi, Kutaisi, Gori and Telavi in a different light. We completely entrusted ourselves to our guides in this process, who helped us discover all the strange nooks and crannies that we would never have found on our own.

In doing so, we made a conscious effort to turn off the main highways, and instead, follow the unmarked roads and rough trails that take us off the beaten path, leading us instead to obscure wildlands and abandoned settlements. Eventually we assembled an intriguing list of destinations that may or may not be known to the readers of our publication. These places promise adventure right where we expect it least – in our own country.

This special issue of VOYAGER Georgia will introduce our readers to a bevy of interesting people – some of whom are travelers, some of whom artists and some entrepreneurs. However, each of them offers something unique – a new perspective, a different angle far from the mundane.

So, as you the reader digest this special issue of Indigo Magazine, sWo, I hope you enjoy each and every discovery you come across, each insight and each authentic perspective. We also hope that the material you find within these pages greatly enhances your experiences as you explore the less traversed parts of our wonderful country.

Happy travels!

Tamar Babuadze

Editor-in-Chief

Tamar Babuadze

Managing Editor

Rususdan Rukhadze

Copy editor

Nino Saitidze

Designer

Nino Kavelashvili

Illustrations by Tatia nadareishvili

Cover Illustration be Anastasia Logvinenko

Authors:

Lasha Bughadze

Toresa Mossy

Salome Benidze

Tsira Elisashvili

Sandro Naveriani

Manana Kveliashvili

Natia Akhalashvili

Salome Kikaleishvili

Alexandre Bagration-Davitashvili

Esma Kunchulia

Ira Chelidze

Shurtkhia Beroshvili

Project Manager / SOLO DIRECTOR

Nino Chikovani

Project Consultant

Nino Gegeshidze

SOLO Brand Manager

Keti Nikoleishvili

Gvantsa Doluashvili

Anna Dziapshipa

Malkhaz Kharbedia

Project Curator

Tina Osepashvili

Sales Director

Nazi Goshadze

Photo - Shutterstock UtskhoPhotography

Anna Dziapshipa

Tsira Elisashvili

TBILISI SOLO LOUNGE MTASTMINDA 11, Chitadze Str.

TBILISI SOLO LOUNGE PALIASHVILI 23, Paliashvili Str.

TBILISI SOLO LOUNGE ABASHIDZE 70, Abashidze Str.

TBILISI SOLO LOUNGE TSINTSADZE 12, Tsintsadze Str.

TBILISI SOLO LOUNGE Chavchavadze 29, Chavchavadze Ave.

TBILISI SOLO LOUNGE KAZBEGI 24G Kazbegi Ave.

TBILISI SOLO LOUNGE KAZBEGI 25, Kazbegi Ave.

KUTAISI SOLO LOUNGE KUTAISI 5, Q. Tamar Str.

BATUMI SOLO LOUNGE Batumi 22, Rustaveli Ave.

TBILISI SOLO LOUNGE TSERETELI 73 Tsereteli Ave.

TBILISI SOLO LOUNGE GLDANI 8, Nozadze Str.

TELAVI SOLO LOUNGE Telavi 3, Cholokashvili Str.

TBILISI MEETING PLACE

Archeological excavations confirm that TBILISI is a city where human beings have lived continuously for 6,000 years.

A CAPITAL CITY FOR 1,600 YEARS

Some of the largest empires have fought over this territory. A place boasting more than 200 archeological monuments.

OLD TBILISI FEATURES 1,768 MONUMENTS OF CULTURAL HERITAGE TBILISI’S HISTORICAL SECTION IS NOMINATED FOR THE STATUS OF A WORLD HERITAGE SITE AN AREA WITH ITS ARCHITECTURE DEFINED BY LANDSCAPES.

A place where different cultures meet.

Apple of discord: Is it an Eastern or Western city? That is when all hell breaks loose: Who built the city, Georgians, Persians, or Greeks? Or maybe Russians, Germans, Italians, Poles, Armenians, or somebody else?

It is at times compared to Paris and to Venice or Petersburg at others…. Yet it has always been Tbilisi, a city like no other, special, and unique, with its Tbilisi culture, Tbilisi subdialect, Tbilisi attire, Tbilisi lifestyle, and Tbilisi architecture as a spatial planning demonstration of its way of life.

Those who have not seen this city, who have not walked its streets full of plane trees, do not know that it is possible to have a Georgian Orthodox church, an Armenian vank cathedral, a Russian church, a Jewish synagogue (including Ashkenazi), a Zoroastrian ateshgah temple, and a Muslim mosque where Sunnis and Shiites worship together - all within arm’s reach!

TSIRA ELISASHVILI

THOSE WHO HAVE COMPETED IN LAUDING THIS CITY INCLUDE Marco Polo, Alexandre Dumas, Alexander Pushkin, John Steinbeck, and many others.

Don’t be afraid of getting lost in the city. No matter which route you take, no matter what direction you choose, the city’s winding roads will invariably take you to your “comfort zone.”

All you have to do is pay close attention to every detail, every entrance door and handrail, every courtyard gate and decorative element, because THE TRUE TBILISI IS IN THE DETAIL.

The term tourist attraction refers to the most visible places of value and significance, those that can be seen without a guide’s assistance.

Tbilisi’s tourist attractions include Narikala, Metekhi, Mtatsminda, Rustaveli and Aghmashenebeli Avenues… in other words, that which is easy to find or locate.

Accordingly, I will tell you about a Tbilisi that must be sought out, about places where Old Tiflis (archaic term for Tbilisi) awaits us. But first, let’s agree that you cannot appreciate Tbilisi sitting in a car; you need to walk throughout the city, walk a lot!

The beauty of Tbilisi lies in its landscapes and architecture tailored to suit them. Multiculturalism is the city’s main characteristic feature, which is why we say that Tbilisi is a place where cultures meet.

Despite this diversity, however, the city creates its own Tbilisi culture, and that is exactly what defines its exclusiveness and uniqueness.

BUT LET’S GET BACK TO OUR PRIMARY GOAL. LET’S PRETEND THAT WE HAVE ALREADY SEEN “THE TOURIST ATTRACTIONS”; LETS SEEK OUT SOMETHING MORE MYSTERIOUS AND CRYPTIC.

54 RUSTAVELI AVENUE

This building, known as Lace House and owned at different times by the Gabashvilis, the Kipshidzes, and the Sulakauris, is Tbilisi’s blue pearl, a place where time freezes and turns into Tbilisi time. This house rises in front of you unexpectedly enough to make you think that it is the house, not you, wandering into this neighborhood, and that you are the first person to have discovered it.

In the same neighborhood, look for 9 KIKODZE STREET Open the entrance door to find a staircase unparalleled in all of Tbilisi.

17 MACHABELI STREET

3 BETLEMI STREET

Now you have reached Kala, a neighborhood within the city walls, a remnant of medieval Tbilisi, a balconied city, and a house famed for its open balcony and oriel windows lined with stained glass. Photos taken in this place will be some of the best in your archive.

If you wind up in Sololaki, visit the Writers’ House at 13 MACHABELI STREET, one of the most remarkable examples of architecture in the city. After having contemplated its interior, you will appreciate how Tbilisi merchants lived.

The house, owned by celebrated philanthropist Davit Sarajishvili, was built by architect Karl Zaar commissioned from Berlin. The platform leading into the courtyard, which was built in 1905, is clad with Villeroy & Boch ceramic tiles.

Fascinated with painted entrance halls? Visit 18 GALAKTIONI STREET, 93 AGHMASHENEBELI AVENUE, or 39 TSINAMDZGHVRISHVILI STREET….

© TSIRA ELISASHVILI

And don’t forget to visit MSHRALI KHIDI (Dry Bridge). Even if you are not into antiquities, you may very well come across something that may bring back sweet childhood memories.

3 GOMI STREET is located in the Kldis Ubani neighborhood offering mesmerizing bird’s eye views of the city. At this address, you will find a 5th century ateshgah Zoroastrian temple. Although the legacy of fire-worship in our country is a far cry from what it used to be, this particular structure is the only surviving ateshgah of the five temples known to have operated in Georgia.

Tbilisi-style modernism, also known AS ART NOUVEAU IN EUROPE, has a strong presence at 12 CHONKADZE STREET, 3 KOJORI STREET, and 36 AGHMASHENEBELI AVENUE.

If promenading through Tbilisi makes you thirsty, visit the courtyard at 42A ASATIANI STREET where you will be greeted by an ice-cold spring flowing from the Botanic Garden.

If you really want to get the gist of Tbilisi, you should visit the sulfur baths. Just make a room reservation. Otherwise, you will never make it inside. Make sure you order black tea with a sugar cube to be served in a tall transparent glass while you are in the middle of bathing. Also make sure you hire a mekise masseur who will make you feel cleaner than ever before.

Stroll into Tbilisi - not Italian - courtyards where you will be welcomed with open arms. In autumn, during harvest season, you will be treated to a cluster of grapes, the symbol and main decorative element of Tbilisi-style balconies. And since Georgia is the cradle of wine, never mind grapevines blossoming on the 7th floor of a multistory apartment building beyond Old Tbilisi. Of course, there are many other sites to see in the city, but if you heed my advice and walk through Tbilisi, you will find a variety of things that makes getting tired worth it.

It is said that every city has its age and gender. Rome is a woman, London a teenager, and Paris a young man madly in love with a much older woman....

Who is Tbilisi, then?

I can answer that question, but that is a whole different story.

მაზნიაშვილის #13

What does “Tbilisi spirit” mean for me?

No matter how trivial it may seem, the spirit of Tbilisi is about sycamore trees and piano sounds pouring from a window in a house located on a winding cobblestone street in the capital’s old town (for example, a Bach or Chopin piece), on a warm summer night.

If I see a sycamore tree in a foreign town I remember Tbilisi right away and it almost makes me forget I’m not home. One non-descript London half dead-end once reminded me of Tbilisi, because I encountered a familiar sycamore there. Another time I thought I was home when I came up from one of the Paris metro stations and saw the familiar sycamores, which immediately calmed me down because I thought I was lost for a minute.

Sounds coming from windows are the sounds of this city’s soul – even if it’s the abrasive sounds of newscasts or the bellowing of a football match a commentator.

Tender souls may get slightly annoyed, but I believe the smell of oldness and life emanating from old entrance halls and archways is also part of Tbilisi spirit… these smells may seem unpleasant, but at the same time they are somehow human, real, natural…

Say whatever you want, but a summer night’s empty-shrouded streets have an aura of love about them – not of current love affairs, but rather reminiscences about love and being

VOYAGER - TBILISI

in love, which pleasantly and sorrowfully remind you of all the insignificantly significant episodes… They remind you of and make you miss that feeling, they make you want to be in love again…

There are several epicenters of such prosaic poetry in this city, here I always use “love” as a verb, as a word denoting action, while according to the laws of time it’s in the past, but according to spatial laws, it’s a constant feeling.

Barnov, Ingorokva, Asatiani… all of these streets are associated with literary names.

Ingorokva is my childhood street – sometimes I still inadvertently recall it as tyrant Dzerzhinsky Street. When I walk on that street I get one and the same feeling (sometimes coming naturally and sometimes as a conscious effort) that if I go into the courtyard of house #14, then I will once again see my dearly missed granny, sitting in her old glazed loggia, bent over a widespread newspaper and wearing glasses on her nose. She was always waiting for me like that until 2012 and in fact, she’s still there, if only in my own imagination… I went there several times with impressions that I wanted to share with her.

For me Tbilisi spirit is in the spring, because the romanticism of winter Tbilisi has been completely devoured by the cold and traumatic winters of 1990s, which have been stretched out endlessly exactly by that traumatism.

LASHA BUGHADZE

UNIVERSAL LITERATURE

According to Akaki Tsereteli’s much-talked-about hypothesis, Rustaveli, in The Knight in the Panther’s Skin, portrayed his characters after the psychological types of different Georgian regions in an attempt to express the idea of Georgia’s unity. Akaki’s suggestion was criticized by Ilia Chavchavadze, who accused his witty colleague of downgrading the importance of The Knight in the Panther’s Skin because, according to Ilia, Rustaveli’s heroes are universal and in no way embody mundane ethnic images, that is, particular residents of Imereti, Kakheti, or Samegrelo…

Of course, Ilia was right because if anything universal in terms of idea, form, or scope has ever been created in Georgia, it is The Knight in the Panther’s Skin. But the debate as to which Georgian text can claim universality, and which text is fenced within philosophical and aesthetical geography, did not end with the polemics between Akaki and Ilia. After all, was it not Akaki again who reproached Vazha-Pshavela for his dialect? Remember “O Pshav, your speech do I detest”?

Similar to Ilia, Vazha would not leave Akaki’s words unanswered (A Delayed Reply to Akaki). He not only would not back down but capped off his brilliant response in verse with seemingly provocative subjectivism and somewhat annoyed and imperative polite forms: “The roaring of the alpine steer thou must not fear….”

These overly polite forms by Vazha-Pshavela were meant to be perceived as part of his concept of cosmopolitan patriotism. To cut it short, Akaki the provocateur inspired much debate and did not pull his punches himself.

This wordsmith, similar to every writing member of any small nation, feared being held hostage by

LASHA BUGADZE

his native tongue - when literature is objectively universal but, because few understand the language of this literature, is doomed to isolation, or “localization.”

This is what troubled Akaki when, during his stay in Paris, he was offered a Nobel Prize nomination. “Who will translate it duly? How will it read?” the poet objected and then added with his usual irony that the Nobel Prize is awarded to peace-loving authors, while his epic poems and stories are full of fighting and wars, so who would consider him for the prize?

Who will translate? How will it read? What defines the universal?

These questions have always been relevant.

Why has Georgian literature been artificially severed from the rest of the literary world? Answers to this question must be sought in history; in historical violence against Georgia, to be precise—when the conquering empire (the Romanov’s empire at first and then the Soviet empire) froze the dissemination and expansion of Georgian literature along with the process of liberation. Nonetheless, literature never waned in scope or meaning. Paraphrasing Umberto Eco, if an educated person does not know who Rustaveli is, a poet of Dante’s level, then it is the problem of his illiteracy, not of the universal poet.

Sometimes it feels good to list favorite names, so let’s mention in conclusion some of the Georgian texts that more or less intellectually ambitious readers should be aware of, no matter where they live or what language they speak.

1. IAKOB KHUTSESI, THE MARTYRDOM OF SHUSHANIK

A story about domestic violence, a career-hungry husband, and a woman standing her ground.

2. DAVIT AGHMASHENEBELI, HYMNS OF REPENTANCE

The king’s repentance; unlike this great king of old, modern-day politicians never repent, let alone apologize, because they see it as a demonstration of weakness.

3. KING DEMETRE I, THEOTOKION (THOU ART THE TRUE VINE)

A dedication in which the existing meets metaphysical.

4. SHOTA RUSTAVELI, THE KNIGHT IN THE PANTHER’S SKIN

A universal text in which the East, Ancient Greece, and Christianity come together; a text as a model of the universe. The number three and the Trinity are important here, like Tariel-Avtandil-Pridon.

5. DAVIT GURAMISHVILI, DAVITIANI

An autobiography of the country and the author, when a person’s biography becomes the nation’s biography.

6. NIKOLOZ BARATASHVILI, MERANI

The author of forgotten and nearly lost masterpieces, forgotten himself for nearly a century, dying without hope in Ganja at the age of 27 only to be discovered by Ilia Chavchavadze decades later.

7. ILIA CHAVCHAVADZE, IS MAN HUMAN?

A satirical masterpiece about how Avtandil degenerates into Luarsab, a chronicle of Georgian regress.

8. VAZHA-PSHAVELA, HOST AND GUEST

A conflict between the majority and individualism, an idealist vs. moralists.

9. DAVIT KLDIASHVILI, SAMANISHVILI’S STEPMOTHER

A small space, and given the shortage of space, uncalled-for ambitions. A brother as a problem. The murder of Abel before he is born. A Georgian Bible.

10. MIKHEIL JAVAKHISHVILI, JAKO’S DISPOSSESSED

A text exposing a savage tyrant. An allegory of Bolshevik violence.

11. GALAKTION TABIDZE, ARTISTIC FLOWERS

Refined, fresh poetry destined for everlasting love and born in 1919 together with independent Georgia.

12. TSISPERKANTZELEBI

A poetic order. Geniuses and provocateurs… physically annihilated in the Stalinist 1930s.

CLASSICS THAT HAVE STOOD THE TEST OF TIME

FOTOGRAFIA

What can be more pleasurable than to drink delicious coffee while browsing and buying interesting photos? Founded in 2017 Fotografia is the first gallery where a limited number of photos taken by Georgian photographers is exhibited and sold. “An amazing venue for meetings! A place you should not miss even if you never dreamt about being a photographer,” a visitor wrote on the gallery’s Facebook page. Yuri Mechitov’s photograph of Sergo Parajanov “Caught in the Air”, Gogi Tsagareli’s photos depicting recent history, Nata Sopromadze’s naked trees or Irakli Dzneladze’s Batumi chronicles – all of this may be browsed while drinking coffee. By the way, Fotografia holds an honorary spot among TripAdvisor’s places to visit in Tbilisi.

21 Revaz Tabukashvili Street

COFFEE LAB

If you’re one of those coffee lovers who believe that it’s possible to “discover” a new taste even today, then you should visit Coffee LAB and taste their specialty coffees. According to its creators, the LAB was established in order to create an absolutely different coffee taste, different culture of coffee brewing and drinking. “Sometimes “making friends” with a real coffee taste requires several tries, as it’s a complex plant… However, as soon as you successfully overcome that barrier (which is inevitable), I assure you that you will join the “nation” of quality coffee lovers and like us, you will become the evangelists of this culture and ritual,” they say. If you’re lucky, you may even witness the interesting process of the grinding of green coffee beans in Coffee LAB.

27 Alexander Kazbegi Street

“Our goal is to create an open area for communication and experiments, where we can discuss important issues,” say the creators of Skola, as they invite us to a cozy and comfortable area recently opened on Rustaveli Avenue. If you like high-quality specialty coffee and fancy cold wine produced from Georgian grapes grown in the biologically clean vineyards of Kiziki, then your should definitely need to pop into Skola. As its founders promise us, a training center and common work area will soon open in Skola Coffee & Wine Bar.

SKOLA COFFEE &WINE BAR

17 Shota Rustaveli Avenue

KONA

This story started when Natalia Partskhaladze decided to create something with “Made in Georgia” written on it. She didn’t think long. She turned her father’s old house in the village of Lavriskhevi, in the Kaspi municipality into an herbal tea enterprise and started to produce her own tea called “Kona”. It’s now up to you whether you opt for “Constant Spring” with rose, blackberry and blueberry leaves, “Oriental Spring” with Gurian black tea leaves, dried ginger, apple and quince or “Anna-Gunda” with rooibos, raspberry, chamomile and anise leaves. Homegrown, dried and packaged tonic, sedative, antiseptic and anti-stress herbal teas with fairy tale names are already sold in the Netherlands. Very soon you will be able to taste these teas in France too.

www.kona.bio

Black dog shop/factory

“Fromager”/Café “Leila”

“Chaimania” and “Badagi” branches/Agrohub

CHOCOLATERIE ARTISAN

Chocolaterie Artisan has all kinds of chocolates: black chocolate with milk, cherry, orange, caramel, pistachio, cheese, rose and even lavender. Whether you’re a fan of almond croissant, mille-feuille cream balls with thousands of layers, chocolate tarts made of almond flour, fresh fruit and nuts or simply good coffee, you will have it all at Artisan.

You should also keep in mind what I read about them –“If you can’t stand the temptation of chocolate magic, you’d better give this place a wide berth, because if you set your foot in at least once you’re done for.”

MARIAGE FRERES

What would you say if you were offered Milky Blue tea with a coconut aroma, which is made of fruit and specially picked in the morning? Or the Blue Lily made from blue tea flower mixed with the heady aroma of wolfberry? Well, if you’re a fan of traditional black tea, you won’t be disappointed. Mariage Freres’ tea selection includes numerous varieties of black, green and white teas. Its story is as follows: A long time ago – a very long time ago – doctors recommended that Louis XIV start drinking tea. In 1660, the king sent an expedition to China to bring tea to France. The expedition was headed by brothers Nicolas and Pierre Mariage. Apparently, the expedition turned out into such a big success that some time later their descendants founded the Mariage Freres Company and became the biggest buyers of tea in China. In 1860, their first shop was opened on Bourg-Tibourg Street in Paris. Nowadays, Mariage Freres owns many shops and land plots in various areas of the world. The company also founded the Paris Tea Museum. If you wonder what the tea made for the French Royal Court tasted, like you can visit Solo Lounge branches and select the drinks with wonderful aromas yourself.

Solo Lounge branches.

SANT' EUSTACHIO

“Solo” prepared a special treat for its clients: it offered them wonderful Sant’Eustachio coffee. You may have also noticed a world-renowned Sant’Eustachio coffee bar while strolling near Rome Pantheon; the establishment got its name from a nearby Saint Eustachio Church. This bar was established back in 1938 by brothers Raimondo and Riverto Ricci. High-quality Arabica coffee beans are roasted on firewood fire there, as a result, they prepare espressos and cappuccinos with unprecedented aromas. So, you shouldn’t be too sad if you haven’t be able to make it to Rome yet. You can buy Sant’Eustachio fire roasted, roughly or finely ground coffee in Solo Lounge and have your own Roman holiday without leaving your home.

Solo Lounge branches

10 I. Abashidze Street

CHICOLLI SHOP

Last October Tamta Benashvili and Tea Tskipurishvili were offered to participate in the Tbilisoba celebrations by their friends, because they had heard a lot about Tamta’s and Tea’s special love for chocolates. By that time the girls had already finished an online course in chocolate-making. According to them, their handmade chocolates caused quite a stir, that’s why nobody was surprised when they established Chicolli Shop. Their signature product is colorful pralines, which are made of either strawberry or green mint or limoncello. First they started to make candy at home based on the classic method – from chocolate made on steam; then they moved to a small shop at 79 Paliashvili Street. They created a special line for children and VIP guests are treated with delicious and colorful chocolate lollypops at Chicolli Shop.

Address: 79 Paliashvili Street

Chaimania / Punduki/Tbilisi International Airport Kartuli Kalata

COCO’S ARTISAN CHOCOLATES

Coco is her nickname, so she didn’t think about the chocolate name for long. Ketevan Meshveliani became interested in chocolate making during her trip to Sicily, when she saw with her own eyes how the sweets were made based on original Aztec recipes. Today she’s making three kinds of chocolate herself: black, white and milky. Her handmade chocolate is made from the best cacao grown in west Ecuador. It doesn’t contain additives, extractions and other fats. Instead of sugar, Ketevan tries to use natural sugar cane syrup. Coco’s delicious handmade chocolates are created in her studio on the ground floor of an apartment house. She often uses Georgian nuts and dried fruit in truffles, which gives them an unforgettable taste and makes you want to return to the shop again and again.

Buyers.ge / Café Milk / Café Lalage

EUPHORIA

Euphoria is a venture that was jointly launched by Ana Sulaberidze and Irina Papashvili a year ago. Since both of them use bio and organic cosmetics, they thought it was a shame nobody in Georgia was manufacturing such products. Euphoria offers its customers biologically clean, natural, skincare products and cosmetics made from plant fats.

Bath bombs – colorful balls full of organic salts, essential oils and aromas that “explode” in the bathtub water have become quite popular as soon as the brand appeared on the market. In addition, the company created a skin moisturizing oil for women who love sun tanning. It lends the skin a brilliance and wonderful aroma.

Pixel trading center, 2nd floor 34 Chavchavadze Avenue City Mall, 1 Kavtaradze Street

EVOLI

I even thought for a minute that if I could just take a bite, its taste would be magnificent. But I was browsing soaps! Yes, soaps! Evgenia is an artist/designer by profession and she began producing soaps several years ago. She makes lavender, rose, lemongrass, jasmine and orange soaps for face and body in one of the rooms of her house she calls the “laboratory”. Here the light undertones of essential oils mixed with the sour smells of citrus and soaps of wonderful colors are created. For starters, you can try a soap called Detox (also known as Black Gold). This soap is made of tea olive essential oils and its coconut charcoal cleans out skin pores. Tea olive essential oils also lend the soap anti-bacterial properties and the addition of peach seed oil soothes skin and prevents early aging. Evoli soaps do not contain chemical additives, artificial colorants and perfumes. These soaps can be bought both in shops and online.

Grace Aesthetic Studio

27a Vazha-Pshavela Avenue. Khurjini, 28 Kote Apkhazi Street.

SCHUCHMANN WINES GEORGIA COSMETICS

If you happen to be in Kisiskhevi village in Kakheti, we recommend you visit Schuchmann Wines Chateau & Spa and ask for cosmetics made of wine. The company, which offers Chateau visitors wine spa procedures, has decided to create a cosmetic line as well. The experiment turned out to be a success. The local personnel trained in Germany produce 100% natural oils and body scrubs from grape pips using the cold-pressing method. The whole process takes place on the wine chateau grounds.

KÁSHKASH

“There was an idea, but there was no Kashkash. The discovery of my great grandmother Mani’s notebooks strangely coincided with it all,” said founder of the Kashkash cosmetic line Ketevan Giorgobiani. Her discovery of Mani’s notebook was soon followed by professional courses and the founding of a new, radiant cosmetic company on the Georgian market. The brand offers its customers four high-quality products made of natural ingredients: Day and night balms made of organic grape oils, eye balm Maniii by KASHKASH and a lip balm made from the mixture of various organic oils and butters – it has a citrus aroma. “Kashkashi means dazzling brilliance and shining in Georgian. We believe in the sun… That’s why we create handmade products using natural ingredients that grow under the sun. We have no name, no nationality, no age and no gender.” That’s how the company founders greet us on their website.

www.kashkash.me

Schuchmann Wines Chateau & Spa, Kisiskhevi Schuchmann Wine Bar, 8 Sioni Street

COME OVER TO THE SEA!

“Come on over to the sea!” my friend would repeat on end over the phone five years ago. I had just moved to Batumi, still unable to make heads or tails of the streets. All vertical streets in Batumi lead to the sea, crossing on their way the horizontal ones, which also dead end into the beach. The sea attracts scores of tourists who unfairly accuse the locals of not loving the sea.

If you end up visiting Batumi and walking down the Boulevard early at dawn, you will witness the everyday fuss of the city’s residents. Morning here starts with the sea, with Batumi’s population jogging or walking kids and dogs

along the Boulevard, or basking in the sun on the beach and swimming. After 9 am, the life in the city changes. Vacationers take over the beach, while the residents of Batumi head to work.

Forget the skyscrapers and the city tailored to suit the taste of investors, limit your travel route to Old Batumi and you will find yourself spending several hours in a small European town. Batumi’s old district is sandwiched between Rustaveli and Baratashvili Streets, a place with harmonious architecture, open spaces, and historical buildings still standing tall.

MANANA KVELIASHVILI

Movie buffs cannot miss the house at 4 Komakhidze Street. At first, Leonid Gaidai filmed The Twelve Chairs here, and then Aguli and Pipinia Eristavi moved into the house in Eldar Shengelaia’s Extraordinary Exhibition. To cap it all off, the whole street wound up in Tengiz Abuladze’s Repentance. Near Komakhidze Street, we see the famous Kutaisi Street with its 19th century Orta Jame Mosque. Its name, which translates from Georgian as Between Two Jamias (Mosques), dates back to the time when it stood between two other jamias, the now demolished Mosques of Ahmed and Aziz. On the same street, you can soak in the Batumi Bathhouse and enjoy your

meal at the Turkish teahouse, Arab restaurant, Bavarian diner, or Chinese café. Admittedly, it is the most celebrated, diverse, and multiethnic street in Batumi.

Kutaisi Street is intersected by Khulo Street. I can’t speak for others but in my world spring arrives in Batumi when crepe myrtles come into blossom to give the street a burst of the color pink. I recommend saving this place for an evening walk. At sunset, the color gold envelops the street, the cobblestone pavement darkens, and enormous shadows crawl across the buildings. Undoubtedly, Khulo Street boasts the most gorgeous sunset in town.

More coffee is consumed in Batumi than anywhere else in Georgia, if not in the whole world. Coffee stands for socializing, sharing news, and whiling away the time in the anticipation of good weather. “Come in, have some coffee” is the customary invitation in Batumi. In town, you will be treated to coffee in Bereg Cafe or Vinyl Bar.

Bereg, the same as Coastline Café, keeps a firm grip on the top position in the charts of Batumi’s attractions. It offers everything to make the beginning of your visit to this magical city a most pleasant experience. Enjoy your coffee on the terrace, with the sea a stone’s throw away, while the view remains the same—the harbor accommodating a red ship where a cute ginger-haired dog lives. From Coastline Café, you can also watch ships enter the port, or contemplate seagulls swarming around the lighthouse in bad weather. The Batumi Lighthouse is something else, serving arriving ships as a compass, as it were, guiding them to the port, seagulls as a shelter, and photographers as a favorite yearround scene. As for Vinyl Café, which is located on Dumbadze Street, near Europe Square, it is the primary gathering spot of choice of the Batumi youth. The best coffee, beer, sandwiches, and friends and strangers who turn into good friends in a matter of hours—all this defines the charm of Vinyl.

If you crave something cooler, you should visit Gelato Trento, a small Italian ice cream parlor on the crossing of Gamsakhurdia and Memed Abashidze Streets. Here, during any season of the year, you can enjoy scrumptious ice cream prepared by Maestro Gelatti herself, whose real

name is Nana, competent enough to garner every award for service. My friends and acquaintances visiting Batumi often ask the same question, “Where do they serve the best Adjarian khachapuri cheese bread?” As my local friends recommend, Porto Franco is the cryptic place in question, though I believe that Laguna and Tserodena also serve excellent, yummy khachapuri.

If you are into visiting museums, then rainy weather in Batumi will never stand in your way to enjoying your day. Khariton Akhvlediani Local History Museum at 4 Jincharadze Street showcases a humongous whale carcass and an aged tractor under one roof. The museum’s unique archeological materials, ancient manuscripts, and original examples of ethnic, folk, and applied arts are poised to accompany you on your journey to Adjara’s historical past.

You all have heard of the Nobel brothers, right? Then, you must be familiar with Alfred Nobel, the founder of the eponymous prize. And it is after Alfred’s brothers, Ludvig and Robert, that the museum at the gate of Batumi, near the railroad station, is named.

The museum’s photo materials, including Sergey Prokudin-Gorsky’s works, bring to life the Batumi at the time of the Nobel brothers. The exposition displays the technological achievements ushered in by the brothers at the turn of the 20th century to develop tea and tobacco cultivation, printing, and oil transit.

Long ago, Batumi used to be a hub of fishermen and smugglers. Its history remembers eight magical years (1878-1886) when the city

MORE COFFEE IS CONSUMED IN BATUMI THAN ANYWHERE ELSE IN GEORGIA, IF NOT IN THE WHOLE WORLD. COFFEE STANDS FOR SOCIALIZING, SHARING NEWS, AND WHILING AWAY THE TIME IN THE ANTICIPATION OF GOOD WEATHER.

THE BATUMI LIGHTHOUSE IS SOMETHING ELSE, SERVING ARRIVING SHIPS AS A COMPASS GUIDING THEM TO PORT, SEAGULLS AS A SHELTER, AND PHOTOGRAPHERS AS A FAVORITE YEAR-ROUND SCENE.

enjoyed the status of a Porto Franco, that is, a free port receiving foreign goods tariff-free. The Batumi Porto Franco, occupying 22 km2, was encircled with deep trenches and barbed wire. Products purchased in the port for a cheap price were levied once they were transported across these borders. There were those who would come up with all kinds of tricks to evade taxes, which is how smugglers gained a foothold in Batumi.

As for fishermen, well, they were always here. Many, many years ago, before Batumi developed into a city, it was a small fishing village. Today, however, some take fishing as an occupation, others as a hobby and a means of relaxation. Amateur anglers can be found across the central lake, near the Batumi Seaport. Fish connoisseurs are advised to drop by the Batu-

mi Fish Market, a must-see place in the city. But keep in mind that the smell comes with the territory.

The fish and seafood are laid out on the counters. They are, for the most part, caught by local Batumi fishermen. After selecting the fish to your liking, you can have it fried at one of the nearby restaurants. If you prefer to watch the fishing process live, then all you have to do is walk around the market and proceed toward the coast where you are sure to run into fishers making ready to sail in small boats or, the other way around, coming back ashore, sorting out the catch, and preparing their boats for returning to the station.

I am not sure whether or not the shouting of fishermen, the city’s signature colorful characters, reaches Batumi’s posh hotels, but if you opt to rent a room overnight in one of the houses in Old Batumi, you are in for hearing at dawn the loud exclamation “Fish! Feeeeeeeesh!” Through the window, you will see a man on a two-wheel bike with a mini fridge, selling fish door to door.

If you wander into the vicinity of the fish market, do not turn back to the city, but keep walking toward the Botanic Garden. A few tips to make your visit a lasting experience: before planning your trip, check the Botanic Garden’s website for possible festivals. The garden’s management facilitates seasonal events celebrating camellias, roses, bamboos, conifer cones, and numerous other species. Besides some of the most spellbinding decorations, these exhibitions offer their visitors to try bamboo preserves or rose petal tea, all made from locally harvested crops. Toys made from conifer cones and other souvenirs for your travel collection are also for sale.

The Botanic Garden displays flora from different countries around the globe. You may run into plants that grow in Australia, the Himalayas, Central Asia, North America, or Mexico.

My favorite, for one, is the New Zealand section. The view of this area in the Botanic Garden, with its blossoming cabbage trees and New Zealand flax, reaches as far as the sea. In sunny weather, the calm blue sea merges into the snow-white clouds to obliterate the divid-

ing line. If you, like me, are madly in love with New Zealand, though unable to travel there at the moment, you still can enjoy a brief stay in “the land of the long white cloud” with the help of the Batumi Botanic Garden.

I am not sure if it will ever be recognized as a monument of intangible cultural heritage, but Batumi boasts one special tradition. Kindergarten tutors in Batumi never miss a chance to take their pupils out for a walk down the city’s streets whenever the weather is nice, be it summer or winter.

The kids walk in formation known locally as “the children’s train.” Imagine 10 or more little ones strolling in a straight line, holding one another’s T-shirts, with one tutor leading the procession, and another trailing behind. As this train proceeds, traffic yields. At every zebra crossing, drivers patiently wait for the last tiny “train car” to step onto the sidewalk.

In a nutshell, everyone wants and has his own piece of Batumi. The choice is yours. It does not matter where you start, the Pishevikebi beach or old courtyards. What matters is to come on over to the sea.

THE VIEW OF THIS AREA IN THE BOTANIC GARDEN, WITH ITS BLOSSOMING CABBAGE TREES AND NEW ZEALAND FLAX, REACHES AS FAR AS THE SEA. IF YOU, LIKE ME, ARE MADLY IN LOVE WITH NEW ZEALAND, THOUGH UNABLE TO TRAVEL THERE AT THE MOMENT, YOU STILL CAN ENJOY A BRIEF STAY IN “THE LAND OF THE LONG WHITE CLOUD” WITH THE HELP OF THE BATUMI BOTANIC GARDEN.

GEORGIA’S GASTRONOMIC REVOLUTION

ESMA KUNCHULIA

Founder of the Museum of Georgian Gastronomic Culture

Restaurant "Barbarestan".

Photo: Irma Sharikadze

FLAVORS AND SMELLS DELIVERED IN SUITCASES

You may enjoy the views of the Eiffel Tower, visit the Prado Museum, Big Ben, the Statue of Liberty, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Egyptian pyramids, Gaudi buildings, and Florence; you may sign the most important agreement in your life and conduct brilliant negotiations; you may listen to opera in Vienna or flamenco in Barcelona; you may enjoy a cocktail in Ibiza or Carlsberg beer in Denmark; you may shop until you run out of money in Milan, try Cavalli, Gaultier, or Vivien Westwood (there's no accounting for taste); next, you may pack your suitcase, persevere through a layover in Istanbul and get back home; yet your most emotional story loaded with metaphors will be about what

you ate and where!

You may pride yourself on having dined in Michelin-rated restaurants; you may pack your Facebook wall with pictures of exquisite dishes and check your shares, read your friends' elated comments, and... ultimately realize that abstaining from the sin of gluttony is a major challenge.

But no, it is not the sin of gluttony. It is gastronomic tourism, the most emotional, scrumptious, and sweetest of them all. Wherever you go, the flavor and smell of the host country is the first thing that sticks in your mind. The flavors of my destinations get the lion's share in my luggage.

Yes, that's true. A whole wave of tourists is flocking to Georgia to smell the aroma of crushed cilantro and garlic, Abkhazian ajika hot sauce, mchadi cornbread on a ketsi clay pan, wine from a kvevri earthen clay vessel, dedas puri bread baked in a tone tandoor oven, chakapuli stew with lamb, tarragon, and sour plums, and chakhokhbili and chashushuli dishes.

THE GASTRONOMIC MUSEUM

Gastronomic tourism is about a given country speaking to you through a dish that best portrays the host's traditions and character, emotions and temperament, taste and genetics. A dish is a mirror; a dish is a face.

In a nutshell, after having traveled throughout 24 countries, with my suitcases of neocortex, dreams, and memories packed, I decided to write a new PhD thesis titled Flavor, Smell, and Memory.

That was followed by one crazy idea conceived by my colleague, Giorgi Kalandia (Director at the Art Palace) and me. The idea was to establish a museum of Georgian gastronomic culture in my house in the village of Tsodoreti. It is also planned to open similar museums in different cities of Georgia.

It will be a repository of the yummiest Georgian stories, where guests will hear, taste, and inhale the history of Georgian cuisine and culture, the country's past and future, with its pearls of the Georgian supra festive table.

Establishing the museum has proved to be an enormous undertaking. To compile aromatic stories and write a wholesome museum novel, a sea of materials, archives, manuscripts, literature, memoirs and ethnographic travel diaries was processed, because gastronomic culture encompasses everything that underlines a given nation's taste and traditions.

Besides archeological artifacts, spices, customs, recipes, and copies of historical kitchenware, the Museum of Gastronomy will also house celebrated guests' memoirs about the Georgian festive table... Their stories dedicated to Georgian hospitality make up a separate book vividly portraying the history of delicious Georgian culture.

Indeed, the feasts described by the French genius Alexandre Dumas in his Tales of the Caucasus are integral parts of this culture. One paragraph from this book suffices to demonstrate, like in an old film, the event held in his honor at the editorial office of Tsiskari periodical, with a rich festive table and lots of fun: there were Georgian authors, stories shared, songs performed and, in conclusion, a special certificate “officially” issued to Dumas for downing a mammoth wine-drinking vessel. The document reads, “Mister Alexandre Dumas visited our modest editorial office where, for dinner, he partook more wine than the Georgians did. November 28, 1856. Ivane Kereselidze, Tsiskari magazine's Editor-in-Chief.”

The Museum of Gastronomy will relate the story of legendary Cuban leader Fidel Castro’s visit to Abkhazia. Dishes with crushed walnuts, kneaded cheeses, and gebzhalia cheese and curd, wine-drinking horns, a drunken Khrushchev, reserved Mzhavanadze, and witty Mikheil Bghazhba (the then First Secretary of Abkhazia’s Regional Committee) - so? So word has it

that Castro went nuts over sulguni cheese, inspiring a loaded Khrushchev to command, “We must send several railcars of this cheese to Cuba.” Mzhavanadze jumped in and parcels packed with cheese were promptly sent to Cuba. A joke composed at that time goes like this, “Viva Cuba, woe to Tskhakaia,” meaning the woe of Samegrelo robbed of all its sulguni cheese.

The Museum of Georgian Gastronomic Culture will open in September of 2018, and you can make a reservation and try the auteur version (compiled by Esma Kunchulia) of the historical Georgian menu for the meal served in the court of King Solomon.

The museum’s restaurant boasts exceptionally remarkable dishes, such as heifer beef roasted in Saperavi wine with raspberries and served with peaches, pears, and plums fried in ajika hot sauce, or Samegrelo-style kuchmachi liver and heart roasted with apples, savory, and Rkatsiteli grape pips, also ghomi grits with seven varieties of Georgian cheese, shkmeruli fried quail with roasted walnuts and parsley, and 19th century Tbilisi-style sweet pilaf for dessert.

GASTRONOMIC TOURISM TODAY

Despite such a diverse Asian-European gastronomic culture seasoned to suit Georgian taste, this branch of tourism is still new in Georgia, just taking its first steps, though it is clear that interest in Georgian wine and cuisine is increasing on a daily basis.

Demand in culinary masterclasses, family-run wine cellars, kvevri wines and Georgian flavors and ingredients are growing in leaps and bounds. This area is already competitive, though there is still much room for improvement in services, for example, or overly showy recipes, menus offering Caesar salad next to shkmeruli or kuchmachi, inconsistent pricing, and so on.

Still, new restaurants are emerging, where guests are hosted by tasteful chefs and where menus of Georgian cuisine are compiled on a professional level. Yes, things are picking up! The roar of a gastronomic revolution is growing louder, and time will come when Georgian cuisine will proudly claim one of the most distinguished places on the world’s gastronomic map. But before we redraw the global culinary map, I intend, exclusively for Voyager, to interview the people with the most refined taste and see what they have to say about Georgian cuisine and some of its most exquisite dishes.

CHICHIKO GOLETIANI Founder of Kakhelebi Restaurant

Georgia’s gastronomic tourism has enormous potential. The most delicious vegetables and fruits grow here, and Georgian meat tastes pleasantly different. Among the exquisite dishes served at Kakhelebi, we can single out and recommend vegetable salad with wild blueberries, sorrel leaf salad with beets and strawberry tklapi, vegetable salad with wild cornelian berries, wild mkhali assortment (wild garlic, nettles, chard, and wild radish), also lamb with tomatoes, bughlama stew, bozbashi soup, a roast meat platter (veal cutlets, buffalo meat cutlets, and pork, buffalo, and veal mtsvadi shish-kabob), and cold boiled chicken with walnut and garlic sauce.

DOLABERIDZE Restaurateur

The beauty of Georgian gastronomic tourism lies in the diversity and colorfulness of dishes. The Georgian dishes one absolutely must try include khachapuri cheese bread, elarji (grits with cheese) and ghomi grits with Megrelian kharcho, Kakhetian shoti bread, also guda cheese and Caesar’s mushrooms.

TAKO

ZVIAD KURASBEDIANI

Founder of Barbarestan Restaurant

Culinary tourism is just picking up in Georgia. Dishes are often good enough to mitigate the harm done by poor service. Most importantly, many restaurants realize now that without improving services, and without further development, they will lose customers. Among Georgian dishes, I would single out chakapuli stew, satsivi paste, gebzhalia, chicken in green grape and blackberry sauce, and elarji grits with cheese.

ZAAL KOKAIA Professor at Lund University, Sweden

Undoubtedly, khachapuri cheese bread is the primary calling card dish! Adjarian khachapuri both entices foreigners and comes across as a culinary masterpiece, in my opinion. Next I would rank chakapuli stew, of course, a dish building on three key ingredients and their absolutely marvelous and harmonious mix. Lamb, tarragon, and tkemali wild plums offer a genuine feast of flavors. Next on my list is eggplant with walnut paste, followed by the Megrelian classic, kharcho soup with walnuts and ghomi grits or elarji grits with cheese. And last but not least, the unique and rare gebzhalia dish! Arguably, no national cuisine in the world boasts such an ideal, complete dish using only dairy products and making full use of their textures and flavors.

The advantage of our gastronomic tourism lies in the uniqueness and taste characteristics of our dishes. To me, Georgian dishes bring together Asian, European, and South American aromas. Still, Georgian flavors and tastes are a different story. I have seen tourists surprised and amazed at discovering that somewhere on the edge of Europe there is an unknown country priding itself on an ancient history and culture, a country with a unique and diverse cuisine.

WHERE DO I TAKE MY GUESTS?

Firstly, let’s agree that it depends on the guest. You can tell culinary tourists by the questions they ask and places where they prefer to lodge. Gourmet tourists almost never opt for franchise brand hotels. Instead, they prefer reserving rooms in high-quality small inns through Airbnb or staying with their friends’ families. Gourmet visitors seek places filled with “the Georgian spirit” and take enormous interest in the mysticism of the Georgian festive table. Umberto Eco, in one of his interviews on Italian cuisine, laconically defines the term gourmet. It

is a person willing to cover miles to enjoy one dish or another. Let me tell you a few words about myself. As a gourmet tourist visiting Batumi, I pass by posh hotels and head toward the place I favor, an inn on the shore called Batumi Pineapple, because both the gastronomic name and the view appeal to me (address: 3 Sandro Akhmeteli Street, Batumi). Next, I am making my rounds through my favorite restaurants, such as the Piazza Bar, Mimino on the Piazza, Adjarian Khachapuri Parlor Giastan, the incredible Chocolate Café run by a Ukrainian couple, and the Conte Bar to sip my cocktails.

In other words, gourmet guests visiting Georgia never look for avocado salad or Milanese Risotto, just as they do not prowl in search of khinkali or elarji menus in France or Japan. They come to Georgia for Georgian flavors, because gourmet tourists know well that it is the dish that best introduces a given country and makes you fall in love with it.

Let me try to single out a few restaurants for you, without any rankings, where I recently took out my guests.

KHASHERIA

Khasheria is located at 3 Abano Street, a crowded area in Old Tbilisi (Chef Tekuna Gachechiladze, phone: 0322 72 11 57)

The blue-ribbon dishes include beef shanks with abalones and khinkali soup.

SHAVI LOMI (BLACK LION)

30 Kvlividze Street (Chef Meriko Gubeladze, phone: 0322 96 09 56)

This restaurant has long built a committed clientele, and its specialty dish is Gobi Me-Gobars (A Plate for My Mate), Imereti-style seasoned pkhali greens with mouthwatering mchadi cornbread.

KETO DA KOTE (KETO AND KOTE)

D. Toradze Street (Chef Ramaz Gemiashvili, phone: 555 53 01 26)

Here you can enjoy scrumptious khachapuri cheese bread and lobiani bean pies, sizzled chicken with Megrelian satsebeli sauce, beans in a clay pot, hot salads with otherworldly seasonings, special bread baked on the spot, and Gemiashvili's signature desserts.

ANONA

43 Abashidze Street (Chef Guram Baghdoshvili, phone: 577 78 34 34)

Despite the chef's European signature style, Anona's menu is rich in Georgian dishes, notably the delicious chanakhi stew, dolma wrapped in grape leaves and mullet in white sauce.

BINA 37 (APARTMENT 37)

5a Mgaloblishvili Street (phone: 588 28 00 00)

A truly unique place - on the 7th and 8th floors of a multistory building, you find a restaurant and kvevri clay winemaking vessels. The fish and pkhali menu is especially delicious.

BARBARESTAN

132 Aghmashenebeli Avenue (Chef Giorgi Sarajishvili, phone: 0322 94 37 79)

The concept upheld at Restaurant Barbarestan involves preparing dishes using Barbare Jorjadze's recipes.

ENZO NERI

Restaurant Filini/Radisson Blu Iveria/

CALAMARI AND SHRIMP

Our guests are strongly advised to try my auteur dish, calamari stuffed with shrimps complemented by green chickpea puree, sautéed spinach, red onions, and Caprione radish. This dish reminds of my childhood, one sunny summer in east Italy where my father was born. This meal combines the classical aromas of the Mediterranean - the taste of shrimps and calamari are a perfect match for chickpeas and spinach. I'm sure you will love it!

KETI BAKRADZE

BAKED CAMEMBERT SALAD WITH MAPLE AND MUSTARD SAUCE

I came up with the recipe for this salad after my discovery of “Georgian camembert.” Yes, our camembert is produced by Georgian farmers from Kakheti, on the Marlet farm. The salad's special flavor comes from camembert cheese baked in a Josper, not a regular oven. A Josper is a charcoal and firewood oven that enriches camembert with a smoke-like taste. The mix of green leaves, with arugula chipping in its special taste, perfectly harmonizes with maple and Dijon mustard sauce. The salad is sprinkled with cranberries and almonds. Although the salad is quite European, it goes very well with dry Georgian kvevri wine.

SOUR PLUM SORBET

Desserts are not Georgian cuisine’s strong point, probably because they are customarily replaced with all kinds of locally grown fruits. Yet they are a must in the restaurant business, and they are included in my tavern’s menu, including sour plum sorbet, our specialty dessert which is available only in our establishment.

I took a lighter, humorous approach to composing the recipe for our sour plum sorbet. I use squaw mint, the most fragrant ingredient in sour plum sauce. Most importantly, this innovative dessert has proved to be commercially viable. Unfortunately, sour plums are seasonal plants, which is why we are waiting for them to bloom, so that we may please our patrons.

1 Rose Revolution Square

GIORGI IOSAVA

Bia Salobie (bean tavern)

14 I. Machabeli Street

Ketis Bistro Restaurant

3 T. Chovelidze Street

KUTAISI IS THE CITY…

SALOME BENIDZE THE TRAIN

I am about to start writing this very subjective text on a train from Tbilisi to Batumi. Our train does not stop in Kutaisi. As it often happens, we travel from one Georgian city to another but bypass Kutaisi. “I don’t have time, I’m swamped,” I say in self-defense and observe from a distance the city where my non-Kutaisi resident friends met, where I was born and raised, and where I made my first lifelong friends who, I know, will stick by me forever. Probably that is why friendship is cherished differently in our city, Kutaisi. We may leave Kutaisi to live in the world’s largest and most attractive cities, but you cannot take Kutaisi out of us.

Still, I am detouring Kutaisi on this train, similar to many important events, good or bad, that have passed my hometown by. Strangely destined to be and, at the same time, not to be a very important city to Georgia, Kutaisi reminds me of a middle child who is neither looked upon with high hopes like the firstborn nor doted on like the younger sibling. The long-suffering middle child lives a seemingly uneventful life, yet always proves its uniqueness and irreplaceability at decisive moments.

ALLOW ME TO PRESENT MEDEA

Vani may indeed have been a seaside town at some point in history, and Poti has always been one - and both are entitled to claim Medea as their own - but every genuine Kutaisi resident honestly believes that Medea was Kutaisi, and that Jason anchored his Argo somewhere between the Rustaveli and White Bridges, on the bank where Okros Chardakhi (The Golden Tent), the residence of Imereti’s kings, can be seen today, or whatever is left of it, to be precise. It must be the most modest surviving royal dwelling. You will never find golden riches at Okros Chardakhi. Instead, you are sure to come across a giant wooden trough in which, as far as I remember, they say King Solomon II loved to soak his feet.

I must admit that I am not sure whether or not this story was related to us by a tour guide back when we first graders and were on an excursion to Okros Chardakhi. Maybe, on seeing the trough, my childish imagination drew a picture of a war-weary barefoot Solomon. In any case, Kutaisi has this peculiar habit of allowing everyone to make up his or her own legend, and any legend has a shot at becoming the most lasting and truthful of them all.

One way or another, no one can snatch Medea from Kutaisi, nor can anyone take away from it King Solomon and dinosaurs who have been numbered among prominent Georgians. As for the dinosaurs, they did roam the city long ago; in 1933, the great Georgian Petre Chabukiani discovered their traces at the entrance of Kutaisi, near the Sataplia Cave, at the foot of the mountains where the seemingly harmless and yet reportedly ill-tempered Oghaskura River has its source.

Truth be told, Petre Chabukiani was the first to start cleaning dirt off Bagrati Cathedral, the pride and joy of Kutaisi. Is there anything I can

KUTAISI HAS THIS PECULIAR HABIT OF ALLOWING EVERYONE TO MAKE UP HIS OR HER OWN LEGEND, AND ANY LEGEND HAS A SHOT AT BECOMING THE MOST LASTING AND TRUTHFUL OF THEM ALL.

say about Bagrati Cathedral? Something you did not know? Probably not. I only want you to close your eyes and picture an evening in the month of May and Bagrati Cathedral’s churchyard swarming with schoolchildren skipping classes, also the city’s view spreading before your eyes from Mount Ukimerioni, the city where Medea lived for a fact - all you have to do is use your imagination.

MOVIES, THEATER, AND OTHERS

The showy poster on the building of the Komuna movie theater in the early 2000s read “Coming soon,” and we, Kutaisi’s teenagers, looked with hope at these walls. It is here that many of us, including me, watched the Georgian film Iavnana (Lullaby) on the silver screen for the first time, back in the dark 1990s. Probably, we would have considered going out on a date to the new movie theater had it not been for Kutaisi’s winds and rain withering the poster. Komuna never recovered to resume operating. Fairly recently, after years of anticipation, Sakartvelo (Georgia) movie theater made a comeback to accommodate a brand new generation of lovebirds on a date.

After all, Kutaisi and cinema are made for each other. Suffice it to say that Vasil Amashukeli’s film, Akaki’s Journey, premiered at Kutaisi’s Radium movie theater. Numerous celebrated pictures were filmed in Kutaisi, including Extraordinary Exhibition. By the way, the sculpture of Picasso’s Boy was erected years ago to adorn Kutaisi’s White Bridge, so make sure you visit the place and take pictures.

I do not believe that any other city in the country has contributed to Georgian theater as much as Kutaisi has. In the same vein, no other city loves theater as much as Kutaisi does.

Theatergoing in Kutaisi is a whole different story, a ritual of sorts that must be performed with scrupulous precision. And if you appreciate theater as a special event and celebration, I wholeheartedly recommend attending at least one performance at Meskhishvili Theater, the most cherished building in Kutaisi, next to maybe only Bagrati Cathedral, and is the heart of the city, both literally and figuratively. You can also drop by Skene Room, the newly opened café inside the theater’s building, a place that is sure to mesmerize you with its refined interior and pleasant music. Meskhishvili Theater is found in

the same square where, in the late 19th century, the Kutaisi Cathedral stood until 1924 when it was demolished. The same square also features the Historical Museum of Kutaisi. Again, I strongly recommend enjoying the museum's unique exhibits.

Generally speaking, I believe Kutaisi to be a paradoxical city, most traditional and yet most innovative, a city in love with and proud of both opera and Robi Kukhianidze's music.

BITTERSWEET FLAVORS

Since we mentioned Robi Kukhianidze, we might as well add that you may very well come across this living legend of contemporary Georgian music in the streets of Kutaisi, or at Palaty bar-restaurant on Pushkin Street, within arm’s reach of the Okros Chardakhi and the famed Schools #1 and 3. This Palaty is the place where, in my opinion, the yummiest lobiani bean bread is baked, and where the most gorgeous Maghlakelidze sisters perform at night, where you will never feel out of place if you are a visitor, and where you are guaranteed to meet everyone, including childhood flames, if you are a Kutaisi resident.

Next door to Palaty, you will find Bikentia’s Kebob Tavern, a place poised to foster the flourishing of domestic gastronomy tourism, no less. I have met people from different Georgian cities traveling to Kutaisi to taste Bikentia's kebobs. My advice is to try the four-cheese pasta served at nearby Papaveroa restaurant housed in the building of Komuna movie theater. If you feel like tea-partying afterward, you can visit Foyer-Foyer Tea House in the foyer of the former Kutaisi Hotel around the corner, which I

certainly hope will remind you of Petre Otskheli's sketches. By the way, Petre Otskheli was from Kutaisi.

In general, it is probably hard to find another city where food is baked, fried, stuffed, and seasoned with such artistry and magic as in Kutaisi. An entire novel can be written about local satsivi walnut sauce and khachapuri cheese bread, to say nothing of the tradition of brewing tkemali wild plum sauce, and the fragrance of freshly seasoned squeezed plums filling the air in courtyards and entrance halls in summer, when a neighbor hands you warm tkemali and asks you to try it: “You think I should add more salt?”

(UNABLE) BUILDER OF INDUSTRY

Back in the day, the automobile and lithopone plants used to rave and roar, accompanied by the glass factory and silk processing facility. And there used to be a Kutaisi lauded in song like this: “Kutaisi is a city, the builder of industry”, not like this: “Kutaisi is burned down, la-la, together with its taverns”. Later in the 1990s, this industry collapsed.

In my opinion, however, Kutaisi never had a chance to become a city of plants and factories in the first place. Kutaisi is a city where the train must stop at the old station in the heart of the city, where the songs by the Ishkhneli sisters must be performed on guitars with ribbons somewhere on the edge of the garden, and where the gymnasium's female students organize the Gviriloba Chamomile Festival in May. Given its character, Kutaisi is a different kind of city, more of a university type, more theatrical, where every household boasts an upright or

I DON’T BELIEVE THAT ANY OTHER CITY IN THE COUNTRY HAS CONTRIBUTED TO GEORGIAN THEATER AS MUCH AS KUTAISI HAS. IN THE SAME VEIN, NO OTHER CITY LOVES THEATER AS MUCH AS KUTAISI DOES.

GENERALLY SPEAKING, I BELIEVE KUTAISI TO BE A PARADOXICAL CITY, MOST TRADITIONAL AND YET MOST INNOVATIVE, A CITY IN LOVE WITH AND EQUALLY PROUD OF BOTH OPERA AND ROBI KUKHIANIDZE'S MUSIC.

grand piano, because everyone in Kutaisi can at least sing along - and maybe even play the accompaniment - this song written to the lyrics by Lili Nutsubidze, the most beloved poet in Kutaisi: “When you're in love, the Black Sea may seem white....”

KATO, CHITO, MINADORA, AND OTHER GIRLS

Akaki Tsereteli, Niko Lortkipanidze, Paolo Iashvili, Titsian Tabidze, Valerian Gaprindashvili, Niko Nikoladze, Ekvtime Takaishvili, Niko Marr, Dimitri Uznadze, Shalva Nutsubidze, Davit Kakabadze, Vladimir Mayakovski, and many others were, at different times, students of the Classical Gymnasium of Kutaisi. We, the residents of Kutaisi, were always aware of that. As the students of the School #3 who had to pass the School #1 almost every day, we would repeatedly read - as though trying to memorize - the names listed on the plaque by the entrance of our rival school, which would sadden us in a way because of this rivalry.

Back then, we had no idea who Kato Mikeladze was, a combatant feminist rallying for equality, who established the Women's League and published The Voice of a Georgian Woman; or Kristine (Chito) Sharashidze and Minadora Toroshelidze, members of the Constituent Assembly and female heralds of democratic Georgia, women who sacrificed their lives for Georgia. Even more so, we had no idea that these great women studied in the Kutaisi School #3, the former Women's Gymnasium, also known as St. Nino's School for Women. Other prominent graduates include Veriko Anjaparidze, Ana Kalandadze and, after the change of the school's status, Rezo Chkheidze, who are constantly discussed here.

I personally consider Kutaisi a feminist city, and I hope that, one sunny day, a museum of women’s history will open here.

Until then... a few years ago, a statue to a gymnasium schoolgirl with a chamomile wreath in her hands was erected near the School #3. And because a memorial plaque immortalizing the names of Kato, Chito, Minadora, and other girls has yet to be installed, let this sculpture celebrate all girls and nameless feminists raised in this school since 1847.

LOST IN THE CITY

Lately, I have been having frequent recollections of standing on the balcony, looking down at my feet, and contemplating the swelling, about to overflow Rioni River as seen through the sizeable gap between the planks. The house where I picture myself belongs to a friend of my aunt, and it is located on the left bank of the river, near the Red Bridge, where pink magnolias bloom as a sure sign of advancing spring' where the road to Chomi begins.

This neighborhood, loaded with houses hanging over the Rioni River, is about to be rehabilitated. Let’s hope that a pedestrian bridge to the other bank will be built one day, from the Kutaisi Botanic Garden to the other side with its Annunciation Church, Kutaisi’s most gorgeous site, stands on the riverbank. Nearby is the Jewish quarter featuring two synagogues and evoking great sadness, because Kutaisi is unimaginable without Jews who, in the 1990s, returned to their historic homeland, carrying with them the joy of celebrating Passover together and the aroma of matza bread. After having visited the synagogues, you can proceed to the Mtsvane Kvavila Church, eventually finding yourself in Kutaisi’s most colorful neighborhoods of Sapichkhia and Balakhvani.

Trust me, nowhere else will you find anything like the buildings you come across during your promenade in the territory adjacent to the university, including the so-called Chinese House on Queen Tamar Street.

You simply cannot get lost in Kutaisi. Everything here is in walking distance, and everyone is keeping an eye on you. Here, you will not have any trouble conjuring up the past or imagining the future. There are just as many eras here as there are people living in this city. You can have your own era and history when visiting Kutaisi, so that you may take in the mysticism of the city in full.

DISCOVER YOUR BODY!

BEST WESTERN SAIRME RESORT

A brand new 4 star hotel „Best Western Sairme Resort“ has opened at Sairme Resort, which offers 81 rooms with the possibility to accommodate 174 people at once. With its interior, unique location and infrastructure the hotel is fully in line with the modern trends.

OF THESE MOUNTAINS AND OF FORESTS

All of us adventure seekers are convening on page 50 of Voyager and will hike through Georgian’s many mountain peaks, copses, lakes and caves. We may part ways depending on whether you prefer light camping, extreme routes or bird-watching, but we will get together around the bonfire in the evening and tell each other stories about this mountain or that forest.

So, we’re going to start our journey with Tbilisi National Park, which is the first national park established in Georgia back in 1973. The Park is situated on the southern slopes of the main Caucasus Mountains, as well as along Saguramo-Ialno mountain ridge and its branches at 600-1,700 meters above sea level. It stretches from the Mtkvari River all the way to the Iori River. The park consists of the Saguramo, Gldani, Martkopi, Ghulelebi and Gardabani districts. There are four marked trails – a pedestrian, bicycle and horse trail. The Didi Gadmosakhedi (Big Lookout) trail (10 kilometers long) is easy and is ideal for beginners. Mamkoda circular trail (38 kilometers long) is a medium difficulty trail and is suitable for those who can briskly walk up the rises. While navigating this trail you will encounter small brooks, lookouts, churches, picnic areas and a mountain pass (1,460 meters tall). There is an even more difficult trail after Mamkoda – its length is 44 kilometers. Another trail called Mamkoda-Zedazeni is 21 kilometers long, which can be covered on foot or on horseback; this trail is of medium complexity as well. You can enjoy the sights of Tbilisi’s suburbs, the Mtkvari riverbed and panoramic views of forests from there. There are two picnic areas and two camping areas and spots for building a fire along this trail.

This year, a family route called Mokolendi trail was opened in Tbilisi National Park inside Zedazeni forest, where you may plan your first magical adventure together with your children. It’s 4.4 kilometers long, 1,010 meters above sea level and it connects Zedazeni Forest with Shankevani. There are picnic and entertainment areas along the trail, including an environmentally-friendly playground equipped with wooden structures. Information boards offer fun family games.

Javakheti is a special place with beautiful lakes, swamps, unique, flat-roofed houses, species of migrating birds and alpine and sub-alpine meadows strewn with volcanic rocks

NATIA AKHALASHVILI

that change color with each season. I would start the trip with Dashbash Canyon in Algeti National Park. It’s an easy trail with a few slopes and rises. After that I would go to Sakdrioni, Foka and Paravani. There you can sample various sweets made in Foka Convent (jams, flowery chocolates etc.). I’d select one of the cheese from 16 different varieties and use it as provisions and save it for later consumption at home as a kind of alpine gift. In the evening I would reach Saghamo Lake, take out the honey I got at the Convent, along with a little adjika, bread, cheese, and thyme vodka and have a little picnic there.

VARDZIA RESORT HOTEL

This hotel compound, which is fully adapted to the unique landscape that surrounds it, revives Meskhetian traditions. With ancient terraces, orchards, swimming pools, a waterfall, entertainment center, playground and a view over Vardzia rock city – this hotel complex is built over a huge area and contains everything requited for making you feel comfortable (you won’t want to leave this pace for a few days!). This year, Vardzia Resort welcomed its visitors with a new concept. In addition to the hotel’s comfortable rooms, visitors can now spend their holidays in economy-class cottages.

Sample unique Meskhetian dishes in a stylized Meskhetian house, where you can also attend master classes. The dishes prepared here are accentuated with Georgian herbs and spices taken from the Javakheti alpine zone and prepared on the resort premises.

While you are there, try unique local dishes like Meskhetian sweetbread, khachapuri, Meskhetian crepes, roasted khinkali and tatarberaki. You can also take a walking tour or visit the new spa center that is soon to open. The Vardzia compound consists of a boutique hotel (with 32 rooms) and 3 cottages.

Visitors will enjoy a restaurant, karaoke bar, entertainment center, playground and 2 open swimming pools with breathtaking views of Vardzia.

The article contains information on the Agency of Protected Areas. apa.gov.ge

HOTEL WITH 32 ROOMS OF BOUTIQUE TYPE AND 3 COTTAGES ARE SITUATED AT THE TERRITORY OF “VARDZIA RESORT”.

Restaurant, karaoke bar, entertainment center, stadium and 2 open pools with amazing view of Vardzia are available for guests of the resort.

Gorelovka. Javakheti.

Photo: Nata Sopromadze

Javakheti Protected Area is an ideal place for bird watching as well. 140 varieties of nesting and migrating birds may be observed from specially-built towers along seven walking, horse and bicycle trails (the best period is April-November). Amateur fishing on lakes rich with various species of fish is allowed (ideal period is May-October). However, bear in mind that the daily fishing limit is 15 kilograms.

Suldi Swamp, Vepkhvi Canyon, Kartsakhi, Khanchali, Bughdasheni, Madatapa Lakes and Madatapa mountain trails are of various complexity; some of them are easy and short, some are difficult and long. If you would like to rent tents, backpacks, sleeping bags, mechanical and electric bikes, horses (50 GEL per day in the village of Sameba) or camping and picnic areas, then you must go to the visitor’s center (1 Kartsakhi Crossroads, Akhalkalaki, Ninotsminda). Bear in mind that you will need ID cards to be registered by border guards when traveling within the Javakheti National Park.

Gorelovka is a special village in Javakheti, covered with climbing plants and full of painted flat-roofed houses. If you go there, then you must visit the Orphan’s House. This blue house built in 1847 used to house poor people and orphaned children. Nowadays it is a Doukhobor prayer house.

KAZBEGI NATIONAL PARK IS ALSO AN IDEAL PLACE FOR BIRD WATCHING. LOCAL PREDATORS – EAGLES OR GRIFFON VULTURES HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO FLY NEAR PASSING CARS THERE. THE MAIN ROUTE OF MIGRATING BIRDS FOLLOWS THE TERGI VALLEY AND CONSEQUENTLY, THEIR NUMBERS RISE DURING THE SPRING AND AUTUMN.

Now let’s go to Kazbegi National Park to be near mountain peaks and stars. There are mainly alpine meadows, snow-peaked mountains and inaccessible rocks inside the park. Its lowest point is 1,400 meters above sea level. Our road leads us to the highest settlement – Juta village (2,200 meters above sea level). The road is asphalted until you reach the end of Sno village. After that is a 16 kilometer long stretch of dirt road and the last stretch (6-7 kilometers) which leads to Juta, is quite narrow and bumpy. Therefore, it’s best to go for an offroad vehicle when traveling to Juta. A system of mountain cliffs (the Chaukhi mountain pass) overlooks the village like a crown. You can access its foundation either by foot or horseback. If you follow my advice, it’s better to go on foot (it’s just a 700-800 meter long rise). The Chaukhi pass is so wonderful and grand that going on foot is a sort of ritual and homage to that wonderful natural monument.

A raincloud may suddenly appear in the middle of a hot sunny day and the whole area glowing after the rain may leave you in awe. Just when you think it can’t get any more breathtaking, nightfall comes and the real magic begins. You will be mesmerized by the starry sky and the river rushing down under the cliffs.

You may also witness meteor showers in August, so be sure to prepare a long list of wishes beforehand. People came from abroad to witness the star fall in Juta last year. The distance from the hotel to the mountain cliffs is 4 kilometers. You can plan hiking trips to various peaks surrounding the area; you may also decide to go to Chaukhi Lake (3.5 kilometers) or Abudelauri Lake (6.5 kilometers) on foot or horseback from there.

MEKHUTE SEZONI (FIFTH SEASON)

This mystical place is situated 2,360 meters above sea level. When you finally arrive, you may not even want to enter the building, but it’s quite cool under the Chaukhi massif during the night and one can enjoy wonderful views from the building’s windows too. It’s a real paradise for mountain lovers. You may stay in a tent, dorms, or family and two-person rooms with individual bathrooms and breathtaking views. One can always find good music and books, colorful hammocks and most importantly, views that will leave you breathless.

You will be treated with delicious Khevsuretian dishes and drinks at the Fifth Season. You shouldn’t leave Juta without trying dishes like kuserbo, kadiskveri and a unique type of khinkali.

RATES: SPENDING THE NIGHT IN A TENT WILL COST YOU 10 GEL AND A FIFTH SEASON’S TENT RUNS 20GEL PER NIGHT.

A TWO-PERSON ROOM WITH A VIEW OF CHAUKHI MASSIF STARTS AT 180 GEL (PLUS 30 GEL FOR BREAKFAST).

A SINGLE DORM IS 45 GEL.

HORSE RENTAL:

HORSES FROM JUTA BRIDGE TO THE HOTEL COSTS 25 GEL; FROM THE HOTEL TO CHAUKHI LAKE 50 GEL AND FROM THE HOTEL TO CHAUKHI RIDGE IT COSTS 150 GEL.

CAR SERVICE: TBILISI-JUTA 150 GEL; KAZBEGI-JUTA 50 GEL.

ROOMS HOTEL KAZBEGI

The only thing you have to think about in this hotel is whether you want a room with a view looking over the Gergeti Glacier or a view of the grand Kuro Mountains. The weather doesn’t matter, because the mountain air and views will still enthrall you. However, you have to spend the night in Kazbegi in order to witness an unforgettable sight of a glacier reddened with the rising sun’s rays overlooking a still dark Stepantsminda. If you choose a room with a front view you, can watch this wonder from the comfort of your bed. Minimalistic rooms (155 in total), a library, hammocks, chaise lounges, indoor swimming pool, fitness center, sauna and a massive terrace are all part of the Rooms experience.

The hotel’s kitchen also deserves special mention. The breakfast is delicious, my Ukrainian friend once even asked me to have it on her behalf – it’s that good. You can order both Georgian and European dishes for lunch. The bar offers famous Rooms cocktails and Georgian wines.

You can plan excursions on foot, horseback and by helicopter (you heard me correctly), as well as rent bikes at the hotel. Rooms hotel also offers massages (for an additional price), room service and transportation.

If you want we can go to Racha together. We don’t have a protected area in Racha yet, but there are lots of areas where you can hike and marvel at the all the majestic views – waterfalls, lakes, glaciers, historic places, caves. Racha forests are comprised of all kinds of flora and fauna, whether it’s the abundant fir trees, clusters of clovers, strawberry or even the random cobweb on a tree stump – they are all natural monuments to me.

You should visit the bottomless lake if you’re seeking real adventures. The route is not that hard and two days should be enough. It starts from Shovi and ends in Glola. The distance is 17 kilometers. One shouldn’t take the road during rainy weather however. It is better to wait so you can view the famous Katitsvera Glacier in clear conditions.

If you have proper skills and equipment and can find a good guide, you can hike all the way up to Buba glacier from Shovi. Another not-so-hard route is the Ghebi-Gona-Kirtisho glacier. It takes two days to cover this 16 kilometer trail (you should also have your ID with you), on horseback it takes just one day.

SUNSET SHOVI

This largest and most comfortable hotel complex in Racha is lost inside a sea of firs. The hotel offers both standard and deluxe rooms, as well as separate, free-standing cottages, as well as an entertainment center, children’s playground, hammocks and swings.

You can plan hikes on foot, horseback and fishing tours in Sunset Shovi. The service includes three meals a day and includes dishes prepared from ecologically clean, natural products. The unusual thing is that the buffet also features Racha lobiani, local ham and shkmeruli. You can also plan a foot and horseback tour from the hotel.

THE PRICE OF A STANDARD TWO-PERSON ROOM STARTS AT 165 GEL.

MKHATVRIS SAKHLI (GALLERY IN RACHA) IN ONI

If you want to experience real Racha hospitality, then you should visit Gallery in Racha, a family hotel situated in a quiet and cozy area at the foot of the forest in central Oni. The hotel’s interior and exterior features traditional Georgian furniture, a unique stone collection and old items characteristic to the region. The hotel walls are also adorned with paintings made by the hostess.

The hosts can take you on a tour of Racha’s untouched natural areas and historic places. They can bake Racha lobiani in the hotel’s traditional stone oven and offer you local wine. You can also witness the vodka distillation process. If you visit during the proper season, you can also taste real Racha ham. The hotel has its own library, vodka distillation equipment, orchard, flowers, rest areas and Wi-Fi.

GLAMPING GEORGIA KRIKHI

There’s a place inside the Ambrolauri deep forests that is still quite close to civilization, where luxury and the outdoors converge. A panoramic view of the forest opens in front of the spherical tents. There’s a bathroom, mini-kitchen, mini-cinema and even Wi-Fi offered inside the area. In short, they have everything there that a high-class hotel would offer. Each tent has its own terrace and chaise lounges. There are picnic and bonfire areas on the premises as well. You can use bicycles for free.

There’s a river nearby and if you want you can fish there or have a dip in the clear blue water. Breakfast ingredients, a gas stove, toaster and teapot are available in the kitchen. You can also order supper in the evening (for an additional fee).

ONE TENT ACCOMMODATES 4 PEOPLE. RATES START 120 GEL PER PERSON.

THE HOTEL’S 8 ROOMS CAN ACCOMMODATE A TOTAL OF 20 GUESTS.

THE PRICE OF A TWO-PERSON ROOM STARTS AT 80 GEL.

A lifetime is not enough to study Svaneti, but you have to start somewhere. If you ask me, a visit to Mestia and Mestia Museum is quite sufficient for falling in love with Svaneti at first glance. After that you should visit Hatsvali, turn 360 degrees and don’t tell anyone what you saw there, keep it to yourself. Another chapter in Svaneti adventure starts after Hatsvali. You should visit rivers coming from Chalaadi glacier (the highest settlement in Europe) – Ushguli, you have to see your reflection in Koruldi lakes and then recognize Shkhara, Tetnuldi, Ushba and Laia Mountain peaks in the water.

If you decide to go up to the Shdugra waterfalls via the marked trail from Mazer, you will see one of the biggest waterfalls in Georgia there. The trail is 7 kilometers long and you’ll need 3-4 hours to cover the whole distance. However, if you want, you can camp near the river for the night. You had better take drinking water from Mazer with you, because without a raincoat you’ll be drenched near the waterfall.

HESHKILI HUTS

Your childhood dream to live in a mountain cabin will come true here. You will find pine huts 7 kilometers from Mestia at 1,900 meters above sea level. You may get lucky and find your accommodation in the “bird house” hut built on the trees.

At Heshkili Huts, you will be able to sample authentic Svanetian dishes –petvrali (khachapuri made of millet), kubdari, ziskhora, tskhumiri and lechkhele made of natural products (you can also get involved in the cooking process).

There’s a garden, terrace, swings, hammocks and picnic areas on the hotel premises. You can also plan both foot and bike tours from there. The hotel has a total of 7 rooms that can accommodate up to 23 guests.

THE ROOM RATE WITHOUT MEALS IS 25-30 GEL PER PERSON OR 50-55 GEL WITH TWO MEALS.

Vashlovani National Park, located in the Dedoplistskaro municipality, is another oddity that you can visit in Georgia. It offers visitors an entirely different experience with its wasteland, mud volcanoes, eagle valley, Datviskhevi (literally meaning “bear valley”) and Alazani copse. The whitish volcanoes are probably the most unusual sights, as they constantly pulsate and glug. Air, oil and mud that have some medical properties are constantly being spit out from craters. You can select one or several-day hiking tours from within the Vashlovani tourist trail network. The trails are marked and well-developed. There are bungalows, picnic, camping and bonfire areas along them.

The National Park’s Visitors Center in Dedoplistskaro offers diverse tours, which include hiking, geological, bike, photo, cultural, safari and educational tours. They also rent hiking equipment. Registration at the visitor center is necessary before entering the Park. One can move about inside the park premises only via off-road vehicles. Besides tents, you can also rent lighting for the night at the visitor center and bungalows from 25-60 GEL.

Vashlovani is a good place for watching birds too. It’s possible to fish here during certain seasons and see the flowering of Georgian iris and other endemic plants (April-May). In the

autumn you can take impressive photos of the reddened smoke trees. Fairy tale forests, box-tree and beech copses, European yew trees (the only conifers without cones), lakes, bridges with arched supports and waterfalls will greet you at the Kintrishi and Mtirala protected areas. Both areas can be explored on foot or horseback. Both areas offer visitors useful infrastructure (marked trails, picnic and tent areas). You can rent hiking equipment and a horse (50 GEL per day) there. In addition to tents, you may also spend the night at the Visitors Center or tourist shelter from 10-50 GEL

Mtirala Park also offers a zip-line rides and the chance to slide down a 200 meter long rope fastened among the tall trees. The period between the second half of August till the second half of October is the best time for bird watching in this park.

Another unforgettable adventure awaits you at Kolkheti National Park. You may choose from 3 sailing tours on kayaks, caters, oar-boats or pontoons (rates range from between 10 GEL and 430 GEL) and explore Paliastomi Lake, gold lakes, swamps and Pichori valley. You can rent tents and binoculars, plan tours and spend the night (25-50 GEL) at Poti Visitors Center. Bear in mind that sailing cruises are cancelled during bad weather. The best period for bird watching in Kolkheti National Park is early spring or late autumn.

WINTER RESORTS

BEFORE YOU ASK WHERE TO GO IN WINTER, I’LL ANSWER WITHOUT HESITATION: GUDAURI, BAKURIANI, GODERDZI OR MESTIA. THESE ARE FOUR DIFFERENT PLACES, WHERE YOU CAN SKI OR SNOWBOARD IN GEORGIA.

GUDAURI

Gudauri is the closest ski resort to Tbilisi (120 kilometers) situated at 2,196 meters above sea level. Gudauri is a paradise for fans of free riding, heli-skiing and backcountry.

The ski season in Gudauri lasts from December-May. There are 22 ski-runs with a total length of 57 kilometers, the lowest point of the chairlift situated at 1,990 meters above sea level and the highest point at 3,307 meters above sea level. 80% of the resort’s runs are intended for amateurs and 20% for professionals. There are artificial snow machines installed at the first ski-run.

HOTELS:

MARCO POLO GUDAURI –rates starts from 245 GEL

QUADRUM SKI & YOGA RESORT –rates starts from 165 GEL

APARTMENTS AND FAMILY GUESTHOUSES: the minimum rate is about 100 GEL (two-person room).

BAKURIANI

Bakuriani is more of a family holiday destination. The distance between the resort and Tbilisi is 184 kilometers (2.5 hour drive). Besides its long-lasting snow cover during winter, Bakuriani’s conifer forests and clean air attract visitors year-round.

Its 29 kilometer long ski-runs are covered with snow from December till April.

You will see Didveli, Kokhta and Mirarbi diverse ski-runs in Bakuriani. It’s possible to ski during the night time on Didveli piste.

HOTELS:

CRYSTAL HOTEL & SPA – rate start from 250 GEL.

BEST WESTERN PLUS BAKURIANI –rates start from 150 GEL.

APARTMENTS AND FAMILY GUESTHOUSES – the minimum price is 80 GEL (two-person rooms).

GODERDZI

Goderdzi is situated 252 kilometers from Tbilisi and 109 kilometers from Batumi. Snow here is plentiful, dry and soft. The wind is almost nonexistent. The area is fairytale-like – it has an alpine zone at the top and snowy forests and wooden houses at the foothills.

Pro tip: For free-riders, the snow-covered houses are excellent ski-ramps. The highest point of the ski-run is 2,340 meters above sea level on Chanchakhi Mountain. There are three ski-runs with a total length of 12 kilometers. Goderdzi ski-runs are covered with snow from November till the end of April.

HOTELS:

HOTEL METEO – room for two with a bathroom – 60 GEL.

GODERDZI SKI CHALETS – room for two – 100 GEL.

MESTIA

Hatsvali resort lies 480 kilometers from Tbilisi and you’re going to have to travel along an incredibly long and beautiful road (8-9 hour drive) to get there. You can also fly to Mestia. Hatsvali is situated at 1,800 meters above sea level and Zuruldi peak is at 2,350 meters above sea level. In total, the length of the ski-run is 5.3 kilometers. Zuruldi ski pass is one of the cheapest in Europe (15 GEL).

Tetnuldi is another skill resort in Svaneti situated 16 kilometers from Mestia. Its elevation is 2,200 meters above sea level. There are four chairlifts here and the 9.5 kilometer long ski-run is covered with snow from November till May.

HOTELS:

TETNULDI (MESTIA) – average rate starts at 200 GEL.

BANGURIANI – room start at 200 GEL.

FAMILY GUESTHOUSES – the minimum rate is about 20 GEL per person.

LASHA GIGAURI photographer

I was five when my parents took me to visit Armazi fortress. After that, I have travelled a lot – both around Georgia and abroad. Georgia is among the countries where one can see a wide range of landscapes, climatic zones and natural monuments in a short period of time.

Tobavarchkhili Lake in Samegrelo-Zemo

Svaneti is the place that I’d like to emphasize from my travels. During a hiking tour I took in 2014, when I first arrived, I was looking at the huge snow-covered rocks, blue lake and beautiful clouds hanging above the mountains and beyond with awe.

For me, Georgia’s protected areas and national parks are special. I recommend that everyone visit them. I also recall my visit to Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park with special emotions – this is an untouched, ancient and mossy forest with rich fauna. Just imagine – it’s the largest forest in Europe. Places that have been barely touched by civilization attract me most. Due to my profession I’m in constant search for lesser-known places. I have ended up in nameless places too. Therefore, when people ask me where I took this or that picture I’m often unable to answer.

There were instances when I would turn off a trail and get lost. However, I was

able to take wonderful shots as a result. During my last voyage to Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti’s high mountain areas (this is my favorite place in Georgia), I and my two friends decided to take an unknown route back home. We had to navigate past lots of obstacles, but the risk was worth it, as we enjoyed the beautiful landscapes. We had to walk for 55 kilometers for two days in a deep forest, without pathways, equipment and food.

With the advent of technology, people have generally stopped interacting with nature. I have lived alongside other creatures of nature many times before. You know that Georgian fauna is rich and

diverse. It’s a wonderful feeling when wild animals feel comfortable in humans’ everyday life. I have seen a bear bathing in a river 500 meters from the trail; I’ve seen an ibex on a cliff when I came out of my tent in the morning; I’ve seen a mother bear together with her cub in Kazbegi. In such moments I realize that the environment we live in doesn’t belong only to us humans. I’d recommend the readers to take only the necessary equipment and food on their travels in the wild; nature will take care of the rest. Unexpected impressions and adventures are something that will always make me travel and discover new things.

IRAKLI JULAKIDZE Professor of Akaki Tsereteli University,

and one of the founders of Tetnuldi Club

I was ten when I started to travel. My first expedition was with the Alpinists’ Club of the then Pioneers’ Palace. We visited Khobi Mountain that time. That’s when I contracted the “mountain disease” for the first time. Kids perceive nature’s colors and unusual voices in the mountains with excessive emotion… it all had an indelible impression on me. Since then, my desire to travel hasn’t abated and it’s already been 43 years since that time. Each year I take part in 2-3 international expeditions and various projects.

I have lots to remember. Travelling is associated with thousands of adventures. All regions of Georgia are beautiful in their own way and at the same time they keep a lot of “secrets”. Personally I would single out Racha. That region, along with Samegrelo and Imereti is known for limestone caves that haven’t been researched by scientists.

For me, the 2014 hiking tour to Nakerala Ridge together with Tetnuldi Club members was the most memorable one. We discovered new exits near Muradi Cave, where we found stalagmites and dripstones of unique and eccentric forms. This discovery, as well as the stalagmite forms caused quite a stir in the world’s scientific circles. That is because nobody has ever found anything like that anywhere else. We found another beautiful

cave just 5.5 kilometers away from that spot and named it Tamaz Tsnobiladze Hall in honor of our deceased friend. We also discovered another cave in the same area, which the public doesn’t know about just yet, so we’re keeping its exact location a secret for the time being. Besides the many stalagmites, we also found the skulls of the so-called gigantic “cave bears” that went extinct 250,000 years ago, their fangs and lots of other materials are important for paleontologists there.

All our expeditions and ventures into the wild also involve danger. We oftentimes found ourselves in funny situations as well. We really scared our guide during the Muradi Cave expedition. Before entering the cave, he told us that we would need only 20 minutes to look through everything inside. But after we went in, we lost track of time (the caves have a way of doing that) and we spent seven hours inside. It was a wonderful feeling to realize that we were the first to discover that miraculous place. We took many interesting photos and videos in the cave. National Geographic also became interested in our discovery; and the Discovery Channel made a film about it. The inclusion of these caves in tourist routes is very important. I’m sure these places will become favorite spots for adventure tourism enthusiasts for years to come.

LASHA GIGAURI

© ARCHIL GEGENAVA

SALOME KASRADZE journalist

I’ve never been a fan of hiking tours or spending the night in tents. However, I love nature very much. I’m a city girl as they say; so in order to make my venture in the wild comfortable, I always look for small, cozy hotels and guest houses online. My last trip was a business one. I mostly travel for business around Georgia and look through beautiful places in the process. This spring I was helping American reporters produce stories about Georgia. They told me they wanted to make a different, unusual story near Tbilisi so that they didn’t spend a lot of time traveling. Therefore I took them straight to Juta Village in the Kazbegi municipality.

It happened to be my first time in Juta as well. Only five families stay in that village during winter, in summer it is full to the brim with locals and tourists. If you haven’t seen local Chaukhebi (Chaukhi mountain pass) then you can’t imagine what heaven looks like.

Initially we stayed at Rooms hotel. My American guests hired a local guide (they paid him $200 for a Juta tour in hopes of filming something “non-American”). It takes about 20 minutes by car from Rooms Hotel to Juta. We stopped near the white waterfall on the road, our driver plucked some grass and told us we should have a taste – it had a weird flavor… I forgot its name.

After the vehicle ride ended, our guide took us to an elderly couple’s house. He said if we wanted to experience authentic village life and spend a few nights with the locals, we had to visit that house and taste Khevi cheese made from the fresh milk of local cows. Liza and Omari live in a two-story house in Juta, they have a small family guesthouse there. The American reporters took wonderful shots and the hosts regaled us with Khevi khachapuri that also had potatoes in it.

From Liza’s and Omari’s house we went to the place I compared to heaven. You have to walk up to Chaukhi massif on foot. However, you can also hire horses from the locals. After getting there, you won’t be able to think about anything else. A wonderful vista spreads in front of you – green mountains from both sides and snow-covered cliffs in the middle from which a river flows. I was looking at this wondrous sight together with my American visitors hailing from LA and Washington DC in awe. Everybody has to see Juta and the Chaukhi massif!

Most importantly, as soon as you get to Kazbegi, find out the exact time of the sunrise online and meet the sun. Believe me, the sight of sunrays slowly and gradually spilling over Gergeti Monastery will always be etched in your memory forever.

PAATA PAPAVA Education specialist, Director of the Teamboat Company

I can’t really say I’m a big traveler, but I have special memories from several trips and I often miss those days and places. The Zemo Adjara Mountains and villages are special to me with their remarkable culture, hospitality, traditions, unique nature, rivers, lakes and forests. Whether you travel to the Khulo municipality from Batumi or the Goderdzi mountain pass, you will be met with amazing sights. It should be noted that recently, the tourism infrastructure has developed quite substantially in this area.

The last time I visited Zemo Adjara I was working for a project. So, together with the locals, I went up to Khikhani fortress. This historic monument, situated right on the Turkish border, is really unique; its diverse flora is one facet of that uniqueness. One gets a breathtaking view from the fortress: snow-peaked mountains, reddish-yellowish rocks, alpine meadows, blue lakes and small villages sunk in forests.

Several years ago, an Israel-based former colleague of mine asked me to select places to visit for his friends coming to Georgia. One of them was a professional photographer and he wanted to produce a new album. Ultimately, we all decid-

I first traveled in Zemo Adjara in the summer of 2000 with two foreign friends and it left all three of us with inerasable memories. The road from Akhaltsikhe to Batumi through Goderdzi pass and Zemo Adjara took us 13 hours. My offroad vehicle was not in the best technical condition and it had trouble traversing the bad roads. Police officers often stopped us; they were asking whether Adjara Security Service knew that I entered Adjara together with the American citizens…

They thoroughly checked us on the border as well. We gave a young border guard a lift to Khulo and we soon made friends with him. He turned out to be a wonderful guide, he told us about local landmarks in great detail and eventually invited us to his house for dinner, which featured traditional Adjarian dishes – Sinori, Borano, Iaghli cornbread and Uge. After that, we visited the wondrous Khandzta church together with our foreign visitors.

ed that a voyage to Adjara via Samtskhe-Javakheti was the best option for them. My friends Beka and Levan Makharadzes, who hail from the village of Vazrani, in the Khulo municipality (I also recommend checking out photographer and cinematographer Levan Makharadze’s pictures depicting Adjara) helped me plan an interesting trip. Our Israeli visitors returned to Tbilisi with wonderful impressions and an enriched photo collection. They were telling me with enthusiasm about Skhalta Church and museum, Machakhela waterfall, the Khulo ropeway from which unique vistas can be seen, and the fossilized forest that is situated near the Goderdzi pass.

Some people may say that Adjara’s mountains cannot hold a candle to Tusheti, Svaneti, Racha, Khevsureti and other beautiful areas near the Caucasus Mountains, but I guarantee that traveling in Adjara’s mountains will exceed all of your expectations.

© LEVAN MAKHARADZE

THE DRINK THAT CONNECTS TIME

Main Spirits Storage of Sarajishvili House Barrel #11499

My hostess Tatia removes a cork from the barrel and hands it over to me. I smell it and the first thing I sense is the strong aroma of berries, most probably it’s raspberry, followed by the aroma of rose jam. I rest my receptors for awhile and breathe in the aromas again. Somewhere at the end I sense the light undertones of nutmeg as if brought on by a faraway breeze. This is a real palimpsest of aromas. Sensations are so strong when inhaling that you immediately get the associations that help you recognize them. “Meanwhile, just imagine that humans are unable to sense 40% of all aromas,”Tatia tells me. The barrel contains the oldest brandy spirits the company has, which were produced back in 1893 during the era of David Sarajishvili. Tatia removes the liquid from the barrel using a special pipette in order to demonstrate its color, then she pours most of the liquid back into the barrel. She first drops the contents of the pipette on my palm; the rest goes to both sides of her neck where

the pulse is most prominent. I follow suit;its rich bouquet is better than any perfume. Brandy production technology, with all its difficulties and nuances, somehow resembles the formation process of perfume composition.

Sarajishvili House’s enoteca contains the samples that were created more than a century ago. They still produce drinks here, including classic brandies that are based on David Sarajishvili’s own recipes. Drinks dedicated to special occasions, for example,the Independence brand created specially in honor of the 100th anniversary of Georgia’s independence, form the company’s unique line. There is also a third vintage line. The concept of this line is to use the spirits from only one specific year in the composition. At the end of the day everything is based on tradition, but not on a museum exhibit adorned with a sign reading “please do not touch”, but rather on a source of inspiration and constant innovation.

Grapes intended for brandy production are harvested early – before the amount of sugar in them becomes too much. Thus, unlike winemakers, Sarajishvili House finishes its harvest by midSeptember. As soon as the fermentation of the newly produced wine is finished, the young brandy spirit received as a result of the double distillation process is kept in oak barrels for at least two months. Only professionals can recognize the pale grape tones in it.After nine months, the liquid is transferred to old barrels, because young spiritsare very aggressive, it vigorously washes out all the substances that are present in the oak wood and if the barrel is not replaced, the liquid will acquire a bitter taste along with the color and aroma. The brandy spirit is kept under a strict temperature regime in the old barrel for at least 3 years. All the aromas – berry, coffee, chocolate, black plum and nutmeg etc. – have their own evaporation temperatures. A very complex oxidation/restoration processes takes place in the barrels. Then the real magic begins – the mixing of the spirits.

Currently there are 17 spirits storage halls in Sarajishvili House, where up to 12,000 barrels, each with the capacity of 350-400 liters are kept. One of them is a special one, it’s an oak barrel brought from France by David Sarajishvili.It was a gift from Jean-Batiste Camus, the person who taught Sarajishvili the secrets of brandy production.

This tour, which also included a blending workshop, finishes in the tasting room. “Let’s try that,” my hostess says and selects the only decanter standing amid bottles in a glass showcase. She removes the massive, faceted crystal cover from it with a little difficulty and pours the drink in glasses, more for me and less for herself. I hold the

TAMAR ESAKIA

lower part of the glass among by middle and ring fingers so that its protruding part is in the palm of my hand, which will warm up the liquid inside and free-up the aromas. Even before trying it, I know that I’m going to write about it.

This is called TRILOGY – a drink from the unique line – a mixture of the oldest spirits encompassing three centuries, which were produced from three various grape varieties grown in three different micro-zones in Georgia (Imeretian Tsitska, Kartli’s Chinese and Kakhetian Rkatsiteli). This diversity creates TRILOGY’s special bouquet for brandy production, they were selected by David Sarajishvili himself after he studied the soil, climate conditions and other characteristics and discovered that well-known Georgian grape varieties widely used at dinner parties were ideal for producing brandies due to their high acidity, low sugar levels and neutral aromas.

TRILOGY is 65 years-old – a drink’s age is defined based on the arithmetic average of the spirits it’s comprised of. This mixture of spirits from three centuries (19th, 20th and 21st) solidifies one whole 135-year-long history, which started as follows:

In 1884, David Sarajishvili opened a brandy factory on what then was called Olga Street (now Chovelidze Street) and manufactured its first product the same year; that was the start of his brandy production that soon encompassed the whole Russian Empire. Sarajishvili’s company gradually became the largest industrial entity among other alcohol producers of the time.It later included distilleries, a vodka factory, the central brandy warehouse and brandy spirit distilling factories, along with the main brandy factory. Sarajishvili’s brandies received 14 differentawards at Russian and world exhibitions, the company was also granted the honorary title of “Supplier of His Imperial Highness’ Court”.

After the Soviet occupation and as a result of the nationalization of private property, Sarajishvili’s company became a state property and production was suspended due to the prohibition law – the factory was temporarily shut down. In the 1940s and 1950s, brandy production saw rapid development. Reserves of unique spirits were created and wellknown Georgian brandies of that period (Eniseli, Vartsikhe and Gremi) were introduced.

The company got its name “Sarajishvili” back in 1994 after it became a private property again. Nowadays, Sarajishvili House’s products are sold in more than 22 countries of the world. The company was awarded with more than 250 prizes at international exhibitions and competitions. It

can be said that the modern company is a worthy successor of the venture launched by Sarajishvili – first of all because of its right values (innovation, orientation towards development, its dedication to potential and its orientation towards the future while at the same time protecting traditions). Thus, TRILOGY not only unites spirits from three centuries, it also unites the flavor of those three eras that Sarajishvili’s company went through together with the whole country.

Outside, I encounter a large delegation that has come to take a tour of the enoteca. I’m in no hurry to go out into the hot city from the shaded courtyard. Geraniums and petunias grow in concrete flower pots adorned with mosaics. At the end of the courtyard the barrels are being repaired. A statue of Caucasian ibex stands on an artificial rise at the edge of a pond – it’s the David Sarajishvili company emblem. Besides being considered a local animal, the Caucasian ibex symbolizes resourcefulness and strength of character because it can find its footing on the steepest of cliffs and climb up to the very peak of the mountain.

I walk towards the gate. An old building stands on the opposite side of the exit, it’s one of the oldest buildings on the factory premises; it was built back in 1954. Plush has covered the sunny side of the two-storied glass-fitted structure. A mossy plant grows on the external staircase banister. This functionless, but very interesting industrial building (in terms of its history and form) will soon offer the city one more alternative public space for exhibitions, concerts, meetings and presentations. This means Sarajishvili’s factory just like Sarajishvili House will open its doors to us and make us part of its history without any passes, permissions and IDs.

TELAVI STYLE, LAID-BACK, HUMMING

TORESA MOSSY

When Keti and I, together with our friend Sopo, visited Istanbul on our honeymoon, this multimillion person city bedazzled all three of us with its mysteriousness. Since that time, all my friends know that wherever I go, be it a megapolis or a small settlement, I make a point of comparing it to Telavi. Sometimes I am even told that I am reinventing a city that already exists. Maybe so, but to me Telavi is a whole world in its own right, which makes proving this point to others quite difficult, though not totally impossible.

People in Georgia often argue about our country’s most notable cities, listing them in different sequences by importance. One way or another, Telavi always winds up on the list. Those into visiting old cities and towns are well aware of the fact that travel routes offered to them—like antiquities and purposefully clad buildings and beautified streets—is one thing, but the invisible relations and inaccessible places, which define the character of a given city, are something totally different.

Whenever I try to portray the innermost nature of Telavi’s residents to a foreigner, I say that we, like hobbits, dislike adventures, love to feast to the hilt, and to some extent, also like hobbits, prefer to remain unnoticed by the outside world. There is, however, another, different Telavi, the Telavi of the Bilbo Bagginses who are not only attentive to the outside world but are also its contemporaries. This is why Telavi’s residents always have a surprise up their sleeve beyond what you notice at first glance.

Word has it that human character is forged by the surroundings, which is certainly true of Telavi. Just look around and say an introductory hello and you will fathom the peace and quiet around you. Wait a little and the laid-back and hum-like speech of Telavi’s residents will no longer sound odd to you.

Scattered down the slope of Mount Tsivi, Telavi looks directly at the Caucasus Mountains, with the landscapes of the Alazani Valley at their foot effortlessly mesmerizing even the most indifferent viewers. I have witnessed on numerous occasions how first time guests spend hours on the balcony, never tiring of contemplating the view that never remains the same and constantly changes colors. You can easily find several hotels in the downtown area, with balconies allow-

ing for enjoying the landscapes that will never let you go jaded and may even push you into speaking Telavi-style, humming.

Antiquities are a whole different story. Even little children in Telavi know that it is one of the most ancient cities in Georgia. As an urban settlement referred to as Teleda, it is mentioned in one of the works of the ancient Greek geographer Claudius Ptolemy as early as the 2nd century AD. For centuries, the city’s name never even once inspired its residents to make up some kind of legend, and even if they did compose one, it was put on the shelf at some point in history.

PHOTOS BY GIO BEZHANISHVILI/UTSKHOGRAPY

Etymologically, however, the name of Telavi is often tied to the elm, which translates into Georgian as tela. That, in turn, may mislead one to believe that the city is overrun by these trees growing in abundance here. Yet it is for this reason that Telavi is notorious for being one big oddity - the city’s symbol is the sycamore, not the elm. And no, you are not imagining things!

The sycamore, brought about by the locals so frequently in conversation, is really 900 years old. Any resident of Telavi can name the promi-

nent Georgians who have feasted in its shade, such as Ilia Chavchavadze, Akaki Tsereteli, and Vazha-Pshavela, to name a few. Vazha-Pshavela, by the way, is our very own. He went to the School #1, right over there, inside the curtain wall of Batonis Tsikhe (The Royal Castle) in the city’s central square. Looking at the many marble slabs on the walls of this 250 year-old school, you are sure to come across some impressive names.

The school’s safe preserves a letter written in 2000 which will not be opened until 2100. Back when I was a student here, the then principal, together with the schoolchildren, including my classmates and me, and teachers, carefully hid three bottles of wine in the wall of said tunnel. In 2100, people will learn about their whereabouts, find the bottles and enjoy the wine. Funnily enough, there are not too many schools where they know for sure that it will survive 100 more years, and yes, our letter will reach its addressees.

The school has a secret passage. It is a water spring that can be reached only through a tunnel. There has been a lot of talk about the tunnel in Telavi. Some say that it used to lead as far as the Shuamta Monastery and even Alaverdi, a hypothesis that may be taken at face value only if a subway system operated in Telavi centuries ago. On the other hand, the tunnel’s remnants can be found within Batonis Tsikhe (The Royal Castle) and in one of the courtyards on Cholokashvili Street.

Although Telavi is indeed an exceptionally beautiful city, there is much more to it than just sightseeing. It is a city of laid-back narrators, and storytelling is of course accompanied by wine and mtsvadi shish kebab. There are many stories to be told, and they are all as diverse as the people who have lived in this city. If you prefer historical accounts, King Erekle II of Kartli and Kakheti gets the lion’s share of stories. The locals will surely take you to the palace where Patara Kakhi (The Little Kakhetian, the king’s nickname) was born and died. That Erekle enjoys special love here is evidenced by his statue depicting the king mounted on a horse. If the statue is ever split open, half a liter of vodka, a doobie, a flashlight, a pocketknife, and canned fish will be discovered in the bosom of the horse. These treasures were left there by several Telavi artists and one poet who, before covering the horse with its upper portion, feasted in its stomach.

Undoubtedly, Kakheti is a true paradise for gourmets. Consequently, if you decide to visit, try not to stick to your diet. If you are a wine and meat connoisseur, Telavi is your Promised Land, and you have several places you absolutely cannot skip. Most importantly, do not let some of the names

used by Telavi’s residents to refer to certain sites throw you off the track. The thing is that the locals have a special talent for nicknaming. For example, the Public Service Hall is known here as the Raffaello Box, the Governor’s Administration as the Embassy of Gurjaani, and so on and so forth. It is imperative to keep in mind that so much as mentioning the name of Gurjaani renders one liable to “a penalty” with a special drinking vessel - bottoms up! And if you absolutely must refer to that place, just say “the neighboring district.”

The reason behind this nearly century old rivalry lies in the fact that Telavi’s residents never found it in themselves to forgive their peers from Gurjaani passing off their railroad station as an urban settlement, turning what used to be known as the Telavi Mazra (County) into the Gurjaani District, and singing at that, “Oh Gurjaani, you are the heart of Kakheti!” The “penalty” rule above, though in relation to mentioning the name of Telavi, applies in Gurjaani as well, where every story of the rivalry between these two cities is told from the other extreme point of view. While you are at it, do not forget that it is just a joke that has turned into a tradition observed by several generations already.

Now back to the subject matter. The fabled Telavi khinkali dumplings are made without herbs in the stuffing, and they are small enough to grab by pleated tops with three fingers and to be consumed in one bite. There are many places in Telavi serving good khinkali, but the locals equivocally recommend the Zodiac dumpling house. If you prefer to dine outdoors in cooler and greener surroundings, the Mala’s Garden is your best shot. Located near Erekle’s statue, right next to Batonis Tskali (The King’s Stream), this restaurant is a perfect place to spend a peaceful Telavi-style evening. You can also drop by the Badya Café on the small street leading from the side of the Godhead Church to the old yarn spooling factory. Along with an enchanting setting and yummy food, Badya will also treat you to a variety of wines.

There is another quintessential Telavi-style place that is hard to find without specific directions. You must ask around for Pakha’s Dukani (Pakha’s Tavern) downtown, across from the post office. At this tavern, you are guaranteed to partake of the family-like warm environment rarely found in other restaurants. Here you can order homemade khinkali dumplings which, as you know, have a special flavor and taste to them. Judging by my experience, after having feasted on wine the day earlier, you should find the house’s lobio beans in a clay pot and chikhirtma chicken soup especially appealing.

Equally noteworthy is Telavi-style beer with its long backstory. A certain young man from Telavi, after having returned home, took to beer brewing. The end product turned out to be something exceptional, extraordinary and, most importantly, lively. Beer lovers are advised to try Alkhanaidze’s beer and see where it is brewed and how. Last but not least, you should not leave town without visiting Telavi Chateau Mere to be hosted by Gia Piradashvili, also known locally as Pirada. This Chateau is remarkable in every way, from the setting to each dish and respective wine. I personally rec-

ommend pork ribs with raspberry and blackberry sauce. There are no clubs or other entertainment venues in Telavi, so do not pump yourself up for clubbing in this city. Nonetheless, with the right people to consult, your Telavi-style entertainment experience may prove to be unforgettable.

Keep in mind that the Kakhetian way of inviting applies to Telavi as well - if you are hungry, it’s no biggie, just eat, because begging and pleading is certainly not the strong point of Telavi’s residents. On the other hand, you can relax, wander the city, and even discover Cholokashvili Street with old houses lining on either side.

AND FINALLY, IF YOU HAPPEN TO VISIT TELAVI EVEN ONCE, YOU ARE LIKELY TO COME BACK. THIS CITY IS POISED TO ENCHANT AND BEDAZZLE YOU AT FIRST GLANCE. IN DUE TIME, YOU WILL REALIZE HOW ONE CAN DISCOVER SIMILARITIES, COMMON FEATURES BETWEEN ANY CITY IN THE WORLD, IN EVERY CULTURE OR NATION, AND TELAVI.

THE SUPER-SAPERAVI ERA

MALKHAZ KHARBEDIA

THERE ARE FEW SAPERAVIS THAT PROMISE SOLVING A MYSTERY WITH EVERY GULP, THAT WOULD NOT JUST SURPRISE ONCE AND ONLY FRUITLESSLY, BUT WOULD TURN THIS SURPRISE INTO MEANINGFUL EXPERIENCE AND HUGE DELIGHT

Great wines produced from Saperavi are always the results of enormous patience. It doesn’t matter whether the wine is aged in oak barrels, qvevri or modern stainless steel vessels. Great wines produced from this grape variety are primarily assessed by time and expectation.

You can’t make great wine from Saperavi harvested from the new, 4 or 5 year-old vineyards. It may be previous and fine wine, it may be your first happiness, but it won’t become a great wine.

The second time, is the wine’s aging time, because Saperavi is the variety that requires a lot of time in order to fully reveal its character. There are wonderful Saperavis aged in oak barrels, but to tell you the truth, this variety can easily preserve its genuineness, youthful array of tannins and inexhaustible potential of aging without oak too.

And most importantly, the third time is our memory time. In other words, time that will drag on between drinking great Saperavis. These tastings are always connected with each other with hopeless, uninterrupted threads, because it’s impossible otherwise. One unforgettable Saperavi can’t help reminding you of another one. The third will always remind you of the second one and so on. Months may pass without being able to drink “the Saperavi”, but as soon as it appears, something lights up in your mind and you realize that this is the one. There are few Saperavis like that in Georgia. There are too many polished, “perfected” and combed Saperavis, there are even more direct and aggressive

Saperavis – the so-called oafs. But there are few Saperavis that promise solving a mystery with every gulp, that would not just surprise once and only fruitlessly, but would turn this surprise into meaningful experience and huge delight.

It’s possible to make great Saperavis in all parts of Kakheti. We have seen it many times before. It’s possible on the right bank of Alazani River, from Tibaani to Akhmeta and on the left bank from Kvareli to Artana. We shouldn’t forget outer Kakheti: how can we speak about Saperavi without mentioning Khashmi? So just imagine how different the Saperavis grown in these different places may be.

Some of them are grown on humus-carbonate soils (on cleared lands and field woodlands of Kardanakhi or in Tsinandali vineyards), some are grown on slaty, runoff soils (like in Kindzmarauli). Saperavis have a different taste in Shilda and Napareuli, you can feel the difference between Mukuzani and Akhasheni Saperavis and Akhmeta-grown Saperavis. I can’t list them all. However, the most important thing is to remember that great Saperavis can be found everywhere in Kakheti if there’s no swamp or frosts in the area (I also mean swampy minds and frozen brains in this case).

Now let’s talk about specific wines.

Despite the fact that our country is known as the cradle of wine and we bear the figure of 8,000 years on our shoulders with pride, in terms of modern viticulture and winemaking,

we are quite a young wine culture. Why? Because the most traditional qvevri-based winemaking was restored only a few years ago; Georgia has rediscovered its past. People started to believe in traditional methods again only 5 or 6 years ago.

Remember how many of your neighbors, acquaintances or relatives buried their qvevris under concrete? And now all of them still believe they are part of the great tradition and long chain, as if nothing ever happened. In other words, we have two year-olds and 10 year-olds in these 8,000 years – all of us had to start from somewhere, we stepped into that world and started to believe in something.

That’s why we can’t go far when talking about the history of our great wines. As soon as you step beyond the time threshold of independent Georgia (the beginning of the 1990s) you find yourself in the Soviet winemaking whirlpool, where you can’t find real wines, with vintage years and provenances or real viticulturists/winemakers. Ultimately you come face-

to-face with some ugly Stalin-era wine myths and that will be the whole history and provenance of the great wines. Whereas before 1921, especially before the start of World War I, there was an absolutely different situation in Georgia in that regard. However, that situation was soon ruined and erased and neither Solomon Cholokashvili nor his students could do anything to help it.

Now let’s talk about the short list of several Saperavis that I have tasted over the years and that can be categorized as great wines – starting from the grape provenance and ending with looking after the wines.

I don’t recall special Saperavis among the new generation wines produced by wine companies of the 1990s. Maybe I didn’t taste the best ones and there are some hidden gems, who knows? I remember several Saperavis made in 1995, 1996, 1997 and 1999; they were made by various companies. However, I can’t say they amazed me. Those wines were rather catering to then active desire of tasting new Georgian wines.

Several important changes took place within the Georgian winemaking industry starting from the second half of the 1990s. SWS, Teliani Valley, Telavi Wine Cellar and Tbilvino tried to create modern wines, Georgian fans of such wines also started to appear and very soon, these and other companies started to think about creating so-called premium wines at the turn of the century. The history of organic (bio) winemaking in Georgia started at that period. This would turn into a strong movement in a few years.

At this point, our story starts to resemble a Gabriel Garcia Marquez novella – “years would pass and Georgian wine that was standing in front of the wall waiting to be shot…”, it’s all right, there were such moments in 2006. That’s why the Georgian winemaking industry started to really wake up. There were only a few so-called premium Saperavis before that, they were more like experiments. Starting from the 2006, 2002 and 2004 Saperavis – Vinotera, Orovela (2004 Orovela Saperavi was praised by Jancis Robinson), Tbilvino and Telavi Wine Cellar’s Satrapezo appeared. The Kakhuri Com-

I’M SURE DOZENS OF HIGH-CLASS SAPERAVIS WILL BECOME FAMOUS BY 2020-2022. THESE WILL BE 5-8 YEAR-OLD WINES THAT HAVE JUST RECENTLY BEEN BOTTLED AND THAT ARE STILL CAUTIOUSLY APPROACHING THE MARKET. MOST IMPORTANTLY, THE NUMBER OF QVEVRI-MADE SAPERAVIS, WINES CREATED BY SMALL WINE CELLARS AND NATURAL WINEMAKERS THROUGH GREAT PATIENCE, HAS DRAMATICALLY INCREASED. GREAT SAPERAVIS CONTINUE TO EXIST IN GREAT TIMES, RATHER THAN IN OUR FRAGMENTED, TUMULTUOUS AND NEGLECTFUL TIMES.

pany released its 2004 reserve in that period, Vinotera’s 2004 Saperavi etc.

Later in 2006, as I already said, Russia “gifted” us with its embargo, which on the one hand resulted in hysterics within the Georgian wine industry and on the other hand, very important changes began to take place. I know it’s a banal explanation, but I have to repeat again that forced orientation to new markets or calculated desire to conquer those markets made the winemakers create new products. Natural, traditional wines and organic viticulture directions became stronger and the companies that had reserves of so-called wine materials from the previous years, tried to distill wines that had new styles. There were some who started to work only on creating different sorts of wines without any “reserves” or “leftovers”.

The Nikolashvili’s, Jakelis’, Soliko Tsaishvili’s and Nika Bakhia’s Saperavis come to mind first from among bio and biodynamic wines (2006-2008). Several major companies and small wine cellars had the best vintages in the same period –Kindzmarauli Corporation bottled Kvareli prov -

enance wine (2005, 2006, 2007), Kindzmarauli Wine Cellar also produced its own distinctive Saperavi. Eniseli Wines had good Saperavi and Mukuzani wines (in 2007). Before that, the Georgian Wine Family association was formed, which presented its wines at the Dusseldorf Prowein trade fair. Maisuradzes’ wines, Vinotera (Gogi Dakishvili, Giorgi Piradashvili), Shumi and others were members of the association. Telavi Wine Cellar continued its “Satrapezo” line and prepared its 2007 harvest for reserve wines. Tbilvino was also active every year, its Saperavi and Mukuzani (special reserve) was bottled every year. We should also mention Badagoni’s “traditional” Saperavis, Vazi+ Company, Besini, Wineman, Mildiani and so on. The appearance of Chelti Saperavis was also important news. The company’s 2007 and 2008 wines are still well remembered by many amateurs and professionals; these wines were soon followed by Gunashauri wine in 2009.

Khareba Company’s Saperavi Premium (2008, 2009 and 2010) is the next stage. First Saperavi from the Khokhbis Tsremlebi Company and Jakelis’ organic Saperavi appeared in the same period as well. In 2007, 2008 and 2009 (and even before that) Jakelis’ Saperavi was aged in oak barrels, its traces were clearly felt in that heady and aromatic wine. However, in 2010 they tried to make this wine without the use of oak barrels and the result was excellent. For me, the 2010 Saperavi still remains one of the most special Saperavis, even after eight years. Kakha Berishvili’s Artanuli Saperavi was marvelous (2010-2012). Lukasi’s 2011, 2012 and 2013 Saperavis aged in oak barrels are worthy of special mention too.

The last decade turned out to be a real renaissance for our favorite variety. I’m sure dozens of high-end Saperavis will become famous by 2020-2022. These will be 5-8 year-old wines that have just recently been bottled and that are still cautiously approaching the market. Most importantly, the number of qvevri-made Saperavis, wines created by small wine cellars and natural winemakers through great patience, has dramatically increased. These are: Satsnakheli, Papari Veli, Shalauri’s Wine Cellar, Teleda, Nikala’s Wine Cellar, Sagvareulo Wine Cellar, Iberieli’s Thin Saperavi Ioanne, Georgian Wines company’s Saperavis, Milorauli’s Wine Cellar Saperavi, Orgo, Beka Gotsadze’s Wine Cellar, Babaneuri’s Wine Cellar, Petriaant Wine Cellar’s heady Khodashnuri Saperavis, Doremi, Gold Wine’s Budeshurisebri Saperavi (here we need to mention both Liquid Sun’s and Geor-

I recall Ghvardzelashvili’s Wine Cellar’s soft and well-matured Saperavi from 2014 as well as the direct and sharp qvevri wine of 2015. Loladzes’ Wine Cellar, Telavi’s Old Wine Cellar, Togonidzes’ Wine, Rostomaant Wine Cellar, Chateau Khash mi, Chelti’s two Saperavis from 2015 (classic and qvevri Saperavis, however, they are very similar), two back-to-back excellent Saperavis (2016, 2017)…

This list can continue and I’m sure that there will be even more future wines after this arti cle is published. The most important thing is to remember that great Saperavis are the result of great patience. Such Saperavis continue to ex ist in great times, rather than in our fragment ed, tumultuous and neglectful times.

gian Vine Foundation’s Budeshurisebri Sapera vis), Sotri, Naotari, Sesiashvili, Buneburi, Lekso’s Wine Cellar.

THE ROAD TO THE MARANI (Wine Cellar)

Yet another Wine Route road sign will soon lead to a small estate in the village of Shemokmedi, in Ozurgeti, where Vakhushti and Beka Menabde produce Chkhaveri wine in kvevri winemaking vessels. A few years back, the Menabde brothers purchased a piece of land to start an organic vineyard and turned their home into a family hotel. The vineyard consists, for the most part, of Chkhaveri variety grapes famed for their unique properties, the brothers say. This year, they added Sakmiela, another endemic variety from Guria, which is even more rare than Chkhaveri. No other company or marani wine cellar cultivates it.

The Menabde Marani incorporates two antique wine cellars where, besides wine, vodka and liqueur are also distilled. Along with traditional chacha pomace brandy, the brothers also distill vodka from homegrown persimmons and liqueurs using fruits from their own orchard. Wine is, of course, fermented Guria-style, that is, in churi (the same as kvevri) earthenware vessels.

“We commission churi vessels from the village of Atsana where the only churi-maker in Guria lives…. We grow garlic in our vineyard, a hardy plant that grows pretty much everywhere, as you know. Garlic plants grow flower heads, then the wind blows and scatters the seeds all over the place, producing unplanned garlic fields. Today, we harvested some for pickling, which goes well with Chkhaveri wine, they say, especially in combination with mchadi cornbread, red beans, and chkinti young cheese.”

Beka and Vakhushti actively share detailed information about their experience with friends via social networks: “We unsealed a churi vessel today. It is amazing! It has been fermenting with additional chacha brandy for 89 days. The process has been flawless so far, though it has yet to mature into wine. More information will be available three months from now.”

“In early December, we bought some Chkhaveri grapes, previously affected by snow and frost, in Baghdati. We held on to them overnight, and in the morning crushed them into a kvevri vessel. We removed the stalks and used all the pomace for distilling chacha brandy. We stir the content once a day to make sure the chacha portion ends up on the bottom. Today, we transported the content into demijohn containers. Consequently, it is somewhat turbid. It will, however, ferment further to make a clear and pleasant wine.”

The Menabde brothers are working hard to turn their village oda house and land—where fruits, daffodils, and violets are followed by blossoming camellias and magnolias - into a worthy destination along the Wine Route.

facebook.com/MenabdesWineCellar

Keto Ninidze’s Family Marani Winery in Martvili has already been included on the Wine Route, with a special road sign to be installed in the nearest future to lead to her establishment. Keto started producing wine in 2015, the Ojaleshi variety at first (without chacha pomace brandy) and then pink Orbeluri. In 2017, a third variety, namely Dzelshavi, was added to the winery’s portfolio.

Keto’s wines are successfully exported to the US and Japan, and the winemaker is considering offers from Sweden, Germany, and Mexico. So far, her products have not gone big in the local market, though.

Ninidze explains that her business focuses on boutique manufacturing to produce experimental and exclusive wines in her small oda household. Although her own vineyard is modest, she has partners in Samegrelo, Lech-

“WE GROW GARLIC IN OUR VINEYARD, A HARDY PLANT THAT GROWS PRETTY MUCH EVERYWHERE, AS YOU KNOW. GARLIC PLANTS GROW FLOWER HEADS, THEN THE WIND BLOWS AND SCATTERS THE SEEDS ALL OVER THE PLACE, PRODUCING UNPLANNED GARLIC FIELDS. TODAY, WE HARVESTED SOME FOR PICKLING, WHICH GOES WELL WITH CHKHAVERI WINE, THEY SAY, ESPECIALLY IN COMBINATION WITH MCHADI CORNBREAD, RED BEANS, AND CHKINTI YOUNG CHEESE.”

khumi, and Racha, from whom she buys organic vintages. In her vineyard, she grows long-established Megrelian and Abkhazian varieties, such as “Chitiruli”, “Koloshi”, “Dudghushi”, “Lakaiazhi”, and “Ashugazhi”, which she ferments in kvevri vessels, sometimes even with small amounts of chacha brandy. Keti does not lack in scores of visitors coming to Martvili either, including BBC, National geographic, and Discovery journalists, sommeliers from boutique wine bars, authors, and others.

“Recently, we hosted in our oda house an informative tour delegated by USDA Zrda project and the Tourism Administration. Those were unusually stressful days because we had almost 40 guests whom we treated to traditional, mostly forgotten, Megrelian dishes,” Keto relates.

facebook.com/Oda.Wines

Wine Route road signs with small arrows indicating directions to large wine houses, chateaus, and small wineries alike can be found in almost every region of Georgia. This is where the 8,000 year-old history of Georgian viniculture, with its traditions and culture, comes alive.

That Georgia is one of the oldest cradles of wine was reaffirmed by celebrated researcher Patrick McGovern last year at a scientific seminar in Bordeaux, in a report on his team's study of three years. McGovern, an acclaimed expert in biomolecular archeology, took great interest in the history of Georgian wine in the early 2000s, and published his notable book Ancient Wine: The Search for the Origins of Viniculture in 2004, dedicating a separate chapter to his travel to Georgia and study of the origins of winemaking.

Georgia - Cradle of Wine, the inaugural exposition of the Guest Vineyard cycle at La Cité du Vin in Bordeaux, marked the first case of a country presenting scientific studies and exhibits reflecting its continuous vinicultural history of 8,000 years. To celebrate the most ancient traditional Georgian method of winemaking, a sizeable kvevri vessel was placed by the entrance of La Cité du Vin.

The Wine Route project, the Tourism Administration says, was launched to promote wine tourism in Georgia. It positions Georgia on the world map as the Cradle of Wine and as a country with the unique kvevri method of viniculture. Of the world’s grape varieties, 500 are endemic to and grown in Georgia, an unrivaled statistic. Currently, almost 530 varieties have been documented in nine Georgian regions, of which 437 have survived. Some of them are quite widespread, and some are rare, but most are preserved in private collections or experimental farms.

The perpetual Georgian tradition of winemaking carries on in the wineries and chateaus included in the Tourism Administration’s Wine Route map. It is under this project that studying the potential of wine tourism in Georgia has been made possible. At the initial stage, wineries and chateaus throughout Georgia were identified and documented. Next, the wineries were grouped in three categories by end-product quality in light of the whole cycle of production, also by available infrastructure and equipment, and by service quality. Based on this evaluation, the finest wine tourism sites were selected and marked. At the current stage, the Wine Route includes 164 small and medium-size wine cellars, chateaus, and win-

OF THE WORLD’S GRAPE VARIETIES, 500 ARE ENDEMIC TO AND GROWN IN GEORGIA, AN UNRIVALED STATISTIC. CURRENTLY, ALMOST 530 VARIETIES HAVE BEEN DOCUMENTED IN NINE GEORGIAN REGIONS.

GEORGIA—CRADLE OF WINE, THE INAUGURAL EXPOSITION OF THE GUEST VINEYARD CYCLE AT LA CITÉ DU VIN IN BORDEAUX, MARKED THE FIRST CASE OF A COUNTRY PRESENTING SCIENTIFIC STUDIES AND EXHIBITS REFLECTING ITS CONTINUOUS VINICULTURAL HISTORY OF 8,000 YEARS. TO CELEBRATE THE MOST ANCIENT TRADITIONAL GEORGIAN METHOD OF WINEMAKING, A SIZEABLE KVEVRI VESSEL WAS PLACED BY THE ENTRANCE OF LA CITÉ DU VIN.

Khokhbis Tsremlebi (Pheasant’s Tears) is a winery run by Sighnaghi-based American John Wuderman, where wine is produced in line with ancient Georgian traditions. To harvest sweet and healthy grapes from Georgian varieties grown in a perfect microclimate, only organic methods are used. All wines here are fermented and aged in kvevri vessels which are bee waxed before firing. According to the company’s founders, the name of the establishment is borrowed from a Georgian folktale teaching that it takes enormous effort to produce wine good enough to bring tears of joy to a pheasant’s eyes.

Notably, Bloomberg’s columnist Elin McCoy, in one of her stories about the best wines in the world costing less than 50 dollars, lists Georgian Rkatsiteli wine from Khokhbis Tsremlebi (Pheasant’s Tears), among others.

pheasantstears.com.

eries. Notably, many households throughout Georgia, not only in Kakheti, will treat you to their homemade wines and relate their stories. The wine cellars of Lado Shavishvili, the Shervashidze family, the Avaliani brothers, and others in Adjara, for example, will be happy to offer their homemade Ojaleshi and other unique wines fermented in kasri containers or kvevri vessels. The same goes for Gurian varieties, such as “Isabella”, “Chkhaveri”, and “Aladasturi”, at Zurab Topuridze’s and Teimuraz Sharashidze’s household wine cellars, or the “Krakhuna”, “Tsitska”, “Tsolikauri”, and “Aladasturi” varieties of wines produced using traditional methods at the wineries run by the Nikoladze family, Simon Chkheidze, Gaioz Sopromadze, Baia, Rita, and others in Imereti.

In Mtskheta and Tbilisi, the wine cellars of Iago, Giorgi Barisashvili, and the Guramishvili family, the Chamber of Georgian Wine, and other winemaking facilities will treat you to wines made from such endemic grape varieties as “Goruli Mtsvane”, “Shavkapito”, and “Tavkveri”, and from imported grapes as well.

Kakheti, the region hailed as the Homeland of Wine, boasts most direction markers along the Wine Route. In other words, you will come across more wineries and chateaus here than anywhere else in the country.

Chateau Mere is located next to the village of Vardisubani, near Telavi. Its three-story stone palace offers a spellbinding view of the Alazani Valley. It is here that the Viniveria Company produces white and red wines using Kakhetian and European technologies in its winery and kvevri wine cellars.

Grapes for wine are harvested in scrupulously selected vineyards with plants aged at least 25 years. The chateau’s guests are welcome to participate in vintage, squeeze grapes in a winepress, to bottle exclusive wines labeled to their names, and to familiarize themselves with winemaking techniques. The chateau also offers tours on horseback to nearby tourist attractions. mere.ge

THE CHATEAU’S GUESTS ARE WELCOMED TO BOTTLE EXCLUSIVE WINES LABELED WITH THEIR NAMES AND TO FAMILIARIZE THEMSELVES WITH WINEMAKING TECHNIQUES.

Chateau Schuchmann—Wines Georgia is a German investment-based winery established in 2006 by German businessman Burkhard Schuchmann. Grapes harvested in the vineyards of Napareuli, Shilda, and Kisiskhevi are processed to make kvevri wine in line with traditional European and Georgian methods.

CHATEAU

MUKHRANI SPECIALIZES IN PLANNING AND ORGANIZING WINE TOURS, WINE TASTING SESSIONS, AND OTHER EVENTS.

Chateau Mukhrani is the first Georgian winery to build on four fundamental values: vineyards, the marani wine cellar, the chateau palace proper, and history. Chateau Mukhrani’s origins are closely tied to Ivane Mukhranbatoni of the Bagrationi dynasty, a political and military figure in the 19th century. The incremental restoration of Mukhranbatoni’s production employs both traditional and modern technologies.

This exemplary establishment, equipped with modern technology, produces 22 varieties of wine and chacha pomace brandy. Chateau Mukhrani focuses in planning and organizing wine tours, wine tasting sessions, and other events. They also run a wine bar on Meidan Square in Tbilisi, where you can enjoy their premium wines.

chateaumukhrani.com

Developing wine tourism is Chateau Schuchmann’s top priority, which is why we strongly recommend dropping by along the Wine Route to meet with the establishment’s warm-hearted hosts. The most exciting latest addition to the chateau’s services is a wine spa that uses organic products based on the grape varieties harvested exclusively in the local vineyards.

Chateau Schuchmann—Wines Georgia also runs a wine bar housed in the Karvasla historical building in Old Tbilisi, the first establishment of its kind targeting tourists, a calling card of Georgian winemaking and gastronomy.

schuchmann-wines.com

Chateau Bruale is located in the village of Tkhilistskaro, Kvareli Municipality, sandwiched between vineyards and hazelnut plantations. The hotel built by Georgian-French Cup Georgia offers its guests traditional Georgian wines and cuisine. The creators of the Bruale brand believe that wine is made for toasting and its beauty lies in arousing sincerity and sharing stories, ideas, and emotions.

Near the chateau, you will find some of Kakheti’s historical and natural monuments, such as Lake Kvareli, Nekresi Monastery, Gremi Fortress, and others, so before enjoying your scrumptious evening meal, you can plan a tour.

THE BEAUTY OF WINE LIES IN AROUSING SINCERITY AND SHARING STORIES, IDEAS, AND EMOTIONS.

chateaubruale.net

Chateau Zegaani is a wine estate in the Gurjaani Municipality. Its establishment in 1820 is tied to the name of nobleman Alexandre Chavchavadze. After having returned from France, he modeled his estate after a typical French chateau of the early 19th century.

Today, this winery is operated by the Tatulashvili family. The chateau’s wine uses only Rkatsiteli and Saperavi varieties of grapes harvested in Chateau Zegaani’s organic vineyards.

The chateau’s vineyards, stretching across the right bank of the Chermishkhevi River, are protected from humidity by the surrounding landscapes.

chateau-zegaani.com

Chateau Ateni is a winery in the village of Ateni in the Gori Municipality, where visitors are invited to taste locally produced wines, familiarize themselves with the process of winemaking, and enjoy a tour through the chateau’s vineyards. Georgian Atenuri is one of the most popular and ancient wines, though unfortunately not as visible lately, especially in the export market.

The chateau’s guests can taste and buy four wine varieties (“Atenuri”, “Chinuri”, “Tavkveri”, and “Khidistauri”) and three types of chacha pomace brandy (classic, aged in oak barrels, and aged on tarragon).

facebook.com /შატო-ატენი-Chateau-Ateni

Chateau Aznauri, near the village of Eniseli and Gremi Fortress in Kakheti, includes a wine cellar, a restaurant, and a boutique hotel. The chateau’s wine cellar uses traditional Kakhetian methods to produce wine, for which only the best vintage from the establishment’s own vineyards is used.

To produce premium wines, the winemakers monitor the entire process of fermentation. Chateau Aznauri also produces Georgian cognac aged three to ten years in oak barrels. If you happen to be visiting the chateau during vintage, you will be able to participate in the process of pressing. After this pleasant activity, you will be treated to a special meal.

georgianwine.ge

IF YOU, AFTER READING THIS ARTICLE, EMBARK ON THE WINE ROUTE, BEAR IN MIND THAT THE ROUTE ITSELF IS JUST AS IMPRESSIVE, SWEETSMELLING, AND ADVENTUROUS AS THE 8,000 YEAR-OLD HISTORY OF GEORGIAN WINE.

GORI

The City of a Thousand Thoughts

If you happen to be visiting Gori, drop by the courtyards behind beauty salons, supermarkets with wide store windows, and the balconied restaurants lining the streets, and you will realize that this is where the city starts. A whole array of smells mingle and fill the air: fresh laundry on washing lines, engine oil and hot dishes, complemented by the hubbub of neighbors socializing in front of the convenience store. These retail businesses never run out of loyal patrons, because the neighborhood’s residents firmly believe that, God forbid, once the local store goes out of business, all hell will break loose in the neighborhood— power and natural gas bills will get mixed up, there will be no one left to entrust with their house keys, no way to keep one’s finger on the pulse and, most importantly, no sure way of borrowing groceries until payday. The locals love peace and quiet firmly grounded in the established order.

You may think that this order stems from streamlined and consistent ideas, but everything out there proves otherwise. At the main crossing, Joseph Stalin and Ilia Chavchavadze

Streets intersect, a contrast that best illustrates the character of the city. Even the slightest elevation provides a scenic point to observe the impulsiveness and chaos enveloping the city. The neighborhoods resemble polyhedrons frantically striving to merge with one another, to find points of convergence, yet it is too late to restore unity once it is broken, which only makes sense. Only the Gori Fortress and its adjacent streets form a solid block. Everywhere else is composed of settlements springing up over time, along with population growth, neighborhoods that seem to have decided to join the city after it had been completed.

The Gori Fortress, which has the best view of the city, is frequented by visiting tourists and couples in love. In my opinion, however, it is a perfect place to enjoy solitude. At any time of day, you can climb the staircase, situate yourself on top of the defense wall, listen to music and observe the city. Soviet architecture covered with rusty tin or shattered slates may be all you will notice at first. If you keep looking, however, you will surely see what defines the city’s peculiar beauty: mountains and rivers, birds soaring

GVANTSA DOLUASHVILI

AT THE MAIN INTERSECTION, JOSEPH STALIN AND ILIA CHAVCHAVADZE STREETS INTERSECT, A CONTRAST THAT BEST ILLUSTRATES THE CHARACTER OF THE CITY.

in the sky, scattered meadows and, most notably, aspen and willow alleys. This city always has enough room and fresh air.

Several old streets, which best embody the city’s past, are also visible from Gori Fortress. It is on these streets that one comes across dried out fountains, moss-covered homes, dilapidated gates, and corroding signage. Wandering through these streets is an excellent starting point for writing horror fiction. The old section also proves that the city has always had enough energy to progress and develop. Memorial plaques reveal that a seminary was founded here in 1817, and a women’s educational center opened in 1857, followed shortly thereafter by the nearby regional center for culture.

You should also visit Giorgi Eristavi Gori Theater of Drama built in 1939. Gori’s residents speak with justifiable pride about the development of Georgian theater; it was here in Gori that the State Professional Theater of Drama was established in 1845 to host the first performances by amateur theater aficionados in the 1840s.

Indeed, the locals have much to be proud of, including the Georgia author, opinion journalist, and public figure, Soprom Mgaloblishvili, philosopher Merab Mamardashvili, scientist Alexandre Nadiradze, composer Sulkhan Tsintsadze, founder of the Georgian State Dance Company Iliko Sukhishvili, and others who were born in this city. Looking at the plaques on the walls of apartment complexes makes one feel regret that just a few sentences inscribed on marble cannot contain the lives and works of these celebrities; and that the city, in its earnest attempt to impress, needs better ways to position its history.

Even a brief chat with Gori’s residents betrays their sincere desire to share stories of old. Just walk through one of the city’s many crowded areas and see for yourself. One such place is the entrance of the park which, years ago, resembled Brandenburg Gate. This ornamented arch was burned in a fire in the 1990s and only its ruins remain today. Those elderly gathering in the new park recall this event with a mix of sad and prideful sentiments.

While the city proper leaves an impression of living in its own world where people mind their own business, the park is a lively place where residents socialize and mingle, where a simple smile is all it takes to borrow a bike or find a part-

ner for a badminton game. Watching people just strolling or chatting in the new park, or even the yard of Stalin’s historic house museum, it seems that common areas are where the city’s heartbeat is heard. The regular guests of these places welcome newcomers wholeheartedly, sharing their knowledge and relating the city’s history. Conversation with some of them will provide you with ample food for thought. You may come across those who take great pride in Joseph Stalin and Iakob Gogebashvili alike.

WATCHING PEOPLE OUT IN THE STREETS JUST STROLLING OR CHATTING, IT SEEMS THAT COMMON AREAS ARE WHERE THE CITY’S HEARTBEAT IS HEARD. THE REGULAR GUESTS OF THESE PLACES WELCOME NEWCOMERS WHOLEHEARTEDLY, SHARING THEIR KNOWLEDGE AND RELATING THE CITY’S HISTORY. CONVERSATION WITH SOME OF THEM WILL PROVIDE YOU WITH AMPLE FOOD FOR THOUGHT.

It is also evident that the city’s residents are strikingly knowledgeable about the biographies of their favorite big names. They will proudly inform you that the Botanical Institute in Tbilisi is named after botanist, author, and public figure Nikoloz Ketskhoveli who was born in the village of Tkviavi, Gori Municipality in 1897. You will also learn that one of the peaks in the Caucasus Mountains bears the name of anthropologist Alexandre Javakhishvili who was born in Gori in 1875.

They will make a point of discussing Luka Dadiani from Shertuleti and explaining to you that he was the first coach to lead a Georgian team of wrestlers to compete in Europe, namely in France. They will boast being experts in fighting for freedom and call to mind Dimitri Kipiani, born in Mereti in 1814, who was one of the biggest fighters for the abolition of serfdom in Georgia.

Equally numerous are the successful, resolute, and talented women from Gori. Your hosts will surely ask you who wrote Magdana’s Donkey. You hesitate for a split second and they will beat you to the punch by answering their own question, “Ekaterine Gabashvili.” They will also mention Anastasia Khoshtaria and Mandilosani, the women’s organization founded by her.

You will hear about the magnificent actress, Nato Gabunia, and a few words about Elisabed Cherkezishvili, born in Koshkebi, a lifelong leading actress for Marjanishvili Theater who played almost 400 characters on stage. Just mention Georgia’s independence and get ready to hear the story of Ana (Ola) Sologhashvili who was born in Mejvriskhevi. They’ll tell you how she was one of the signatories to the Act of Georgia’s Independence. On a sad note, they will

conclude that Ana Sologhashvili was executed in 1937 for anti-Soviet activities.

In a nutshell, here you will easily find people who can speak on end about famous, exemplary, and admirable persons. But, before striking up a conversation, keep in mind that you will have to agree that Stalin is the only force sustaining Gori’s visibility. Otherwise, all their efforts and eloquence will be wasted on proving their point. Stalin’s historic house museum, built in 1937 and featuring, among others, the leader’s personal railroad car taking him to Tehran, Yalta, and Potsdam, is one of the most popular tourist attractions.

Another issue troubling the locals is that the city has failed to take due care of its antiquities. When this topic is brought up in a conversation, it signals that they are talking about the House of the Amilakhvaris, because not many remember the background of this one-story building in the heart of the city. Although it takes just a few hours to walk throughout the city, it’s certainly worth staying 2-3 days to take in Gori’s

atmosphere. You may learn about events of the past in museums or from inscriptions on monuments of cultural heritage, but if you really want to embrace the city’s present and look into its future, you need to chat with the leaf vegetable sellers behind the counter in the local farmers’ market, or barbers and shoemakers working in miniature rental spaces, those who never give up and stubbornly wait for customers all day, all week. They are the only ones who know what it is like to love a city where you no longer belong.

You cannot leave town without crossing the bridges connecting different neighborhoods, as they offer many spots with impressive views at sunset. With any luck, you may come across a fisherman who will strike up a conversation and treat you to fried fish on the shore. I don’t know what people seek in other cities, but one thing I do know is that, if you really want it, you will find everything in Gori: chaos in order, hubbub in quiet, the past in the present, and the familiar in the unfamiliar. You just need to know what you are looking for.

YOU CANNOT LEAVE TOWN WITHOUT CROSSING THE BRIDGES CONNECTING DIFFERENT NEIGHBORHOODS, AS THEY OFFER MANY SPOTS WITH IMPRESSIVE VIEWS AT SUNSET.

LET ME TELL YOU ABOUT THE MAGIC OF WATER, ITS POWER AND ABILITY TO WASH AWAY OUR EXHAUSTION, TO MAKE US EXPERIENCE AND LONG FOR THE JOY OF LIFE. THE HEDONIST ROMANS WERE WELL AWARE OF THAT. WHILE THE GREEKS TOOK WATER AS A MEANS OF CLEANSING, THE LATINS HELD A MUCH MORE SENSITIVE ATTITUDE, ESPECIALLY SINCE THERMAL WATER PERFECTLY SUITED THEIR NEEDS BY HEALING WOUNDS AND HELPING THE ROMAN BEAUTIES GET RID OF WRINKLES. “SANUS PER AQUAM” (SPA), WHICH TRANSLATES AS “HEALTH THROUGH WATER”, INVOLVES MEDICAL PROCEDURES AND RELAXATION IN ONE, FAVORED FOR BOTH HEALING PROPERTIES AND PLEASURE.

THE LEGEND OF THE KING AND THE SPARROWHAWK

One of our kings lost his falcon only to find it later in a warm spring. Emersion in this water, which was quite strong-smelling, guaranteed a renewed fighting spirit, shiny hair, and spiritual health. The spring is the reason why a city was built around it, and it is surprising that the city has not turned into another Baden-Baden or Ardennes. Sulfur baths and a balneotherapy resort would make a name for any place in the world. And this is where the story of our spa procedures begins.

I doubt that any local resident has missed the opportunity to enjoy Gulo’s Bathhouse at least once. Down the mosaic halls you walk and hit a hot pool at first, followed by a cold one, then the masseur rubs you to the bone with a kisa sponge, and your skin is as smooth as silk; the texture of your hair softer than any balsam can ever achieve; and tea in a tall thin glass with peach, white cherry, or other kind of preserve. That is a traditional Tbilisi spa. Here you will not find military-style clean-shaven personnel. The massage here is unapologetic and rough. Time goes Asian here and passes in slow motion.

What can I tell you about the benefits of sulfur water? Its healing powers are recognized by both ancient and modern medicine. It is beneficial for the cardiovascular and respiratory systems. It rejuvenates skin, has restorative properties, and fosters a healthier muscular system. This is why it is one of the most crucial components of modern aesthetic medicine.

A RESORT WITHIN THE CITY

Did you know that there is a resort in Tbilisi? Yes, right here, in the old part of the city. You don’t have to fly or travel anywhere. Just stroll past the sulfur baths toward Ortachala, and you will bump into a balneology resort.

Its history goes back to the 1930s when this unique project was developed under the leadership of physiotherapist and balneologist Mikheil Zandukeli. The resort, which opened in 1938, was recognized as a monument of cultural heritage in 1998.

Don’t let the Stalinist architecture scare you. On the contrary, vintage structures are in fashion nowadays, and buildings communicating history are gripping. Spa procedures and balneology are separated here. The list of natural medical services include mineral sulfur water baths, medicinal volcanic mud masks, physiotherapy, and medical and healing massage.

balneo.ge

9 Gorgasali Street, Abanotubani, Tbilisi ( +995 322 722 551

PUT ME IN THE WINESKIN

It is common knowledge that wine is good for your health. It lowers your cholesterol and clears away toxins. We have also heard of the healing effect of grape seed oil that wards off all kinds of harm. And we have all these goodies in abundance, which would make a wise person consider the wine spa as a new detox direction. And that is exactly what happened.

SCHUCHMANN WINES CHATEAU & SPA

Schuchmann Wines Georgia opened a wine spa in the winery’s chateau in the village of Kasiskhevi, Telavi Municipality. Two years into operation, the spa has hosted scores of locals and tourists. It goes beyond a simple spa procedure to include aromatherapy, because the fragrance of wine is in itself beneficial for our brain, which is constantly overworked as is.

Wine spa procedures encompass several directions, such as body healing massage therapy, sauna, body scrubs, oil massage, and wine therapy. Red wine softens and polishes skin, while white wine has moisturizing properties.

KVARELI EDEN

Once you step into the wine-themed UNNICO SPA of Kvareli Eden, you find yourself in the realm of a Roman Bacchanalia feast. The spa’s design and concept prepare you for time travel. Gilded vines and colored jets of water are poised to make you forget what era or century you’re in.

Kvareli Eden uses the Maddi Ayarza Cosmetics line for spa procedures and focuses mainly on rose, honey, and grape seed oils. In addition, totally unique grape and wine therapeutic procedures are also offered. At Kvareli Eden, viniculture not only comes alive through smell or taste, but also advances to a qualitatively new level and leads us to a multifarious sensual world.

LOPOTISTAS

Yes, there is such a caste, those who pack their things every weekend and head to Lake Lopota. It’s not far away, and it’s the best way to restore your energy at the end of a week. The beauty of this destination needs no further introduction, because Kakheti in general enchants us with the Caucasus Mountains and the Alazani Valley. In a nutshell, the Lopota Complex, nested in the heart of this glorious area, is a place that compels you to go back over and over again.

At Lopota, you can enjoy a number of spa procedures, such as a forest spa with vinotherapy, relaxation and healing massages, and a detox program that combines water procedures and a special diet. The list of services includes a traditional Russian-type steam bath with fragrant oak or eucalypt besoms to restore your poor blood circulation fast after a week of sitting by the computer. www.lopota.ge

TRAVELING TO THE HEART OF THE VOLCANO

Have you ever been to Akhtala? Specifically, have you ever been inside a volcano? No, I am not asking you to toss a ring into magma. The thing is that the village of Akhtala, some 120 kilometers from Tbilisi, features a volcano with its craters issuing forth muds deposited at 250 meters below the surface.

I’m speaking from my personal experience when I say these muds boast healing properties. At first, I was removed from the 21st century and put in the 1930s, and then I found myself in a mud bath. Finally, I felt light as a feather levitating in midair, my skin glowing and looking 10 years younger like the skin of Bulgakov’s Margarita.

As early as the 18th century, (Prince) Vakhushti Batonishvili was aware of these muds. After the establishment of Soviet rule, this place was transformed into an army hospital. Besides cosmetic properties, Akhtala’s muds are used to treat bone, joint, and muscle diseases, also effectively battling neurological disorders and contributing to wound healing.

9 Queen Tamar Avenue, Gurjaani

( (353) 22 08 03; 599 23 17 74, 599 49 34 96

FAVORED BY DEER

Finding springs while hunting, which is how Sairme was founded, must be something that runs in Georgian blood. Legend has it that some hunters followed a wounded deer’s trail of blood, which led them to a spring with an oxidized streambed and salt-covered banks. The surrounding area was covered with flourishing green grass. Later the hunters discovered that a herd of deer alternately licked the salt and drank the water, which is why this area is called Sairme, meaning a place of deer. In the 1920s, archeologists discovered hot mineral underground waters. In the 1930s, a balneology resort was built here.

Today, Sairme’s fully renovated resort holds an honorable place among other modern European spas. The temperature of water is 41 °C. Flowing from 1,500 meters below the surface, the springs are characterized by their high thermal efficiency. The Spa Center at the Sairme Hotel is furnished with state-of-the-art equipment from the German company Kraft. The place offers all types of massages, fitness, a swimming pool, a minibar, and a whole array of services, such as hydro massage, the Charko douche, physical therapy, dry massage, relaxing baths, colon hydrotherapy, and other types of irrigation.

The center is unique in terms of both equipment and the chemical composition of the thermal waters used for procedures. Add to that alpine climate and spellbinding landscapes and you will have a genuine thermal Garden of Eden.

sairme.com.ge

Baghdati, Sairme

( (+995 32) 240 45 45 / 46 / 47

FROM TSKALTUBO…

ALTHOUGH THIS SONG SPEAKS ABOUT THE WIND, LET’S PRETEND THAT IT IS DEDICATED TO THE UNIQUE, CRYSTAL-CLEAR, AND ODORLESS WATERS OF TSKALTUBO. I EMPHASIZE ODORLESS BECAUSE THE INTENSE SMELL OF SULFUR OR OXIDES LIKE THOSE OF THE TBILISI WATERS MAY SEEM UNPLEASANT AND MAKE US CRAVE THE FRAGRANCE OF LAVENDERS OR SANDALWOOD. IN THAT CASE, THOSE WITH A DELICATE SENSE OF SMELL ARE ADVISED TO VISIT TSKALTUBO. THE HEALING PROPERTIES OF THIS DESTINATION WERE KNOWN AS EARLY AS THE 12TH-13TH CENTURIES. IN THE 19TH CENTURY, IT WAS COVERED BY THE GERMAN PRESS.

TSKALTUBO DEVELOPED INTO A FULL-FLEDGED RESORT IN THE 1930S.

Pompous Stalinist architecture, gypsum figures and a luscious green park characterize the formerly famous Soviet-era retreat. Now, here stands the Tskaltubo Spa Resort. Those into vintage are strongly advised to visit - you will not regret it! This old-fashioned setup, which blends with a modern spa center, offers a comfortable environment for relaxation and an extensive health program. Espe -

cially noteworthy on the list of offers is the sanatorium program which focuses exclusively on beauty.

The Spa Resort also offers its guests free transportation to the baths.

sanatoriumi.ge

23 Rustaveli Street, Tskaltubo ( (+995) 599 09 16 10

My recommendation to those feeling uncomfortable about Stalinist architecture is to try the Tskaltubo Plaza. Tskaltubo’s waters are peculiar in that they tend to lose their properties away from the source, which is why the baths here are installed at the original points from which the waters flow. That, in turn, means that

the hotels in Tskaltubo do not have their own baths. But do not despair, though, because the Tskaltubo Plaza offers a free ride to the baths.

Before deciding which bath you need, consult a doctor, and only then enjoy your spa procedures.

SPELEOTHERAPY IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT MEDICAL PROCEDURES OFFERED AT THE TSKALTUBO RESORT. THE WHITE CAVE WAS THE FIRST TO BE USED FOR HEALING PURPOSES, THOUGH THERE ARE NUMEROUS OTHER CAVES IN TSKALTUBO TO EXPAND THE SCOPE OF SPELEOTHERAPY.

BORJOMI LIKANI

During the infamous Soviet period, the party’s bureaucratic elite built for itself a paradise on earth in Likani, just above Borjomi. Yes, they found an abode in the Romanov’s villas, in the Moorish-style palace, and once in a while even handed out passes to working people…

This place used to be called the 4th Administration. Today, however, it prides itself on the five-star Borjomi Likani Hotel covering all 43 hectares of the Likani Park.

Compared to Borjomi, Likani’s water is softer. The magnificent forest park surrounding the area is nothing short of an oxygen plant, which is why Likani is much more than a spa resort, as it can save us from a variety of ailments. Water and milk baths are not the only reason why visitors flock here.

Two weeks of vacationing and delighting in leisure in Likani will provide enough health and energy to last you a whole year. The anti-cellulite program is exceptionally refined, and the mix of spa and medical procedures using Borjomi waters is innovative. A seven-day stay guarantees a special offer involving certain medical procedures free of charge. Equally enticing is the offer for those staying for 10-14 days.

www.borjomilikani.com

16 Meskheti Street, Likani, Borjomi ( 0322 29 22 92

OUR JOURNEY TO THE SPA REALM IS OVER FOR NOW. THIS DOES NOT MEAN THAT WE HAVE EXHAUSTED ALL MAGICAL DESTINATIONS IN GEORGIA. IN MESTIA ALONE, ACROSS FROM THE RIVERBANK, ENOUGH SPRINGS ARE FOUND TO ACCOMMODATE ALL SPA RESORTS IN THE WORLD. MOREOVER, EACH HAS ITS OWN SIGNATURE COMPOSITION. ONCE, MY HOST TAUGHT ME TO DRINK FROM ONE STREAM BEFORE EATING AND FROM ANOTHER AFTER ENJOYING TOO MUCH “KUBDARI” MEAT PIE. THIS IS WHY I KNOW FOR SURE THAT THE HISTORY OF GEORGIA’S SPA RESORTS IS JUST STARTING.

DREGS OF THE COFFEE BREWED ON SAND

I have a feeling I’ve told almost all the stories I had about Abkhazia. My recent travels have given me inexhaustible materials. I seem to turn into an enormous well from which thirsty people extract long-forgotten stories each time I come back from Abkhazia. They are looking for old familiar places, aromas, flavors and streets in my stories and I guess they sometimes find them.

The other day I pored over old Soviet resort guides and greedily sucked in the feelings that people had before my birth, it’s probably what my parents’ generation is looking for in my stories.

Against the background of more important challenges, I have long forgotten the romanticized memories of Abkhazia as a resort destination. However, each of those stories about pine tree aromas, beautiful wilderness, good weather, sea and mountains is true if viewed separately. In that sense, the reality is just like it is in collective reminiscences, dreams and Soviet guides. Moreover, that paradise-like beauty also seems to have healing properties.

“The main healing factors of Leselidze resort are the air, the sun and the sea.”

The foundation for happiness could be almost the same thing.

“As a therapeutic factor, the air has an impact on the human body, not only through temperature, moisture, the speed and movement of the air and other physical properties, but also with its chemical composition. Molecular particles in the air that are charged with positive and negative electrons (so-called air ions) play the most important role,” the guide reads.

Back when I was little we would get in the car every Friday and travel for kilometers just to feel the moisture in that air on our faces and bodies. My brother and I would stick our heads out the car window, follow the rows of palm-trees with our eyes and realize that we were there again. The constant greenness of the palm-trees once again allowing us to breath the fresh air that they talk so much about in the guides.

Years later I traveled down that road alone. When I saw the row of palm-trees I stuck my head out the car window again. The road was full of potholes, as the landscape quickly changed. Greenness and rows of palm-trees followed us along the whole route. Sometimes the spaces between the palm branches would fill with the sea and sometimes with mountains. The sun was shining. The traces of war became apparent after we went through small villages. Stray dogs were crossing the street barking. I saw the village names on the road signs. There were also banners depicting the war on the road.

Periodically the sounds of the road and the sea would intermingle and I would get drowsy. I guess it’s difficult to face the reality and handle the childhood memories sometimes. Palm-trees, humidity and the smell of the sea were the signs that I was somewhere in the middle between the memories and reality – I guess I was in the state that has become a constant in our everyday lives. The air was so thick I wanted to eat it.

The guide reads: “Air bathing under a covered area is the most comfortable; it’s the best way to strengthen your organism. A complex of meteo-factors influences the organism while you take an air-bath: Air temperature and its movement, humidity, air ionization and dispersed sun radiation. Climatic properties of the seaside have an important impact on the organism. Large area of the sea surface makes sure that the air is clean and transparent, as a result, sun radiation on the beach is rich with ultra-violet rays.”

For several years after the Chernobyl tragedy it was not recommended to bathe in the sea. Therefore we spent the next summer hiking in the mountains and swimming in the rivers. I never told anyone, but I learned to swim in the river. The same day while walking in an abandoned village I got a terrible toothache, they treated me with bee glue and then we went to the watermill to grind the corn. But I still preferred large crowds and wanted to go to the sea – “sea and sun baths under the covered area” and chocolate-sprinkled ice-cream in iron cups. Most of all, I wanted to taste the famous coffee brewed on the sand.

Now I have a new rule. As soon as I get there I go to Brekhelovka and drink the coffee that I craved back then. It acts as an elixir, there’s a men’s gathering place nearby; they play backgammon and talk there. Young people sit in the newly opened cafes on the seaside and we all look at the beach and see how the Amra Café was destroyed and the port where rusty ships stand still.

I drink local coffee every day; I drink it everywhere I go. I want to taste that coffee in all the families I visit, that’s how I guess what kind of people they are. I wonder whether there is a

guide describing the chemical composition of that coffee? I know that local coffee is stronger than any ultra-violet ray and its taste is so strongly embedded in me that I can feel it the whole year round.

I continue reading the guide:

“The seaside air is rich with seawater dust, because as a result of the movement of the waves, the sea drops evaporate and transform into dust. Breathing in the dusty sea salts has a beneficial impact on biocolloid substances found in the respiratory tract’s cells and it improves the breathing function.”

I look at the sea and can’t bring myself to bathe in it. For me everything is a symbol in this area – the sea most of all. I can only look at it from afar. Despite my great love for it, it’s hard for me to turn into a colorfully dressed customer. Even despite the desire to repeat the happy summers of the past, I can’t understand how I can swim into so many memories and use their useful properties for my own benefit. That’s why I just look at it and realize that I can only meet my desires halfway and look at the dregs of the coffee that I drank in Brekhelovka.

GEORGIAN FILMS ON THE MAP OF WORLD CINEMA

Sashishi Deda (Scary Mother)

(Directed by Ana Urushadze, Georgia/Estonia, 2017)

It’s impossible to discuss modern Georgian cinema without remembering Ana Urushadze’s directorial debut. After she failed to receive funding for the script written for a 15 minute film, Ana continued to invent stories for the feature-length Scary Mother. That’s how what was once supposed to be a short film, became a full-length drama and one of the most successful Georgian films of the last few years.

Scary Mother is a 50 year-old housewife maned Manana (played by Nato Murvanidze). She lives with her husband and 3 kids in a nondescript, grey condominium in Tbilisi. One day she is faced with a choice – either she is going to continue everything in the same monotonous manner or she’s going to write a novel! For her, the novel is a chance to deliver herself from the mundane reality she exists in: it is a chance for her to be reborn. She describes herself and her family members on the pages of her book as if she’s trying to make them see the reality from outside, as she attempts to show them what and how she feels.

The film itself was shot in 34 days and edited in just six days. 26 year-old Ana Urushadze’s film

Scary Mother was screened at the 70th Locarno Festival on August 3, 2017 where she received the Golden Leopard award for the best debut. Along with numerous awards, the film became the winner of the Mumbai, Egypt, San-Francisco, Sarajevo and Beijing Film Festivals. The film received the Grand Prix for Best Female Actress at the Asian Pacific Screen Awards (APSA), which is often referred to as Asian Oscars. The film also received an award from the International Federation of Film Critics (FIPRESCI) at European Film Festival.

Namme

(Directed by Zaza Khalvashi, Georgia 2017)

While Namme is just beginning its festival life, it’s impossible to talk about new Georgian cinema without mentioning this film.

The film focused on Ali, whose family has a mission – guarding the healing waters where a magic fish lives and healing the ailing villagers. All three sons have abandoned their ancestral houses and the old man is left only with his youngest daughter Tsisnamme (Namme). Namme meets Merab in a seemingly abandoned and foggy village… But how can Namme make a choice when on the one hand she is faced with love and on the other with tradition and her old father?

Long, uninterrupted shots and a slow-moving rhythm allow viewers to fully perceive and observe each detail and nuance. The film starts with a waterfall shot, which seems to drag on forever – you observe the lines created by the flow on the water surface and follow each leaf that fell into it. Khalvashi’s direction and cinematographer Giorgi Shvelidze’s imagery create mystical and a highly-emotional environment, where upper Adjara’s indescribable beauty is part of the story rather than just a backdrop. Namme premiered at Tokyo International Film Festival where it was featured in the main competition program.

SALOME KIKALEISHVILI

Kuchis Dgheebi (Street Days)

(Directed by Levan Koghuashvili, Georgia, 2010)

Levan Koghuashvili is a distinguished director in modern Georgian cinema. His feature films and documentaries are about genuinely lost people who sometimes manage to find the solutions to their lives and sometimes they fail to do so.

“The main topic of Street Days is not drugs or the streets,” the director noted in a past interview. “First of all, it’s a film about people, their weaknesses and nobleness. These topics will never grow old.”

Street Days was the film that sets out to inform the audience about important changes that began in Georgian cinema. With a streamlined script, well-written dialogue, authenticity and artistry that fully conveyed the main character’s internal world – this film provided all of the crucial elements that postwar Georgian cinema has lacked for so long.

Koghuashvili presented the worn-out topic of drug addiction and an individual in the clutches of the habit in such a manner that the audience never got tired of watching the slouching 45 year-old Cheki, his friends and his wife. Guga Kotetishvili played the main character and his performance once again showed us that non-professional actors are often much more authentic on screen. Street Days was featured in various festivals, it also received a major award at the Wiesbaden Cinema Festival.

Grdzeli Nateli Dgheebi (in Bloom)

(Directed by

Nana Ekvtimishvili and Simon Gross, Georgia/Germany/France, 2013)

Nana Ekvtimishvili’s and Simon Gross’ first full-length feature film In Bloom attracted world-wide attention upon its release in 2013, and became a favorite of several international film festivals (the film garnered a total of 29 awards). The picture premiered under the forum section of the 63rd Berlin International Film Festival and

received the C.I.C.A.E. award. In Bloom was referred to as being part of “a new Georgian wave” at the Berlinale, while Hong Kong Film Festival critics referred to it as “Georgian cinema’s spring”. The film received an award from the International Federation of Film Critics (FIPRESCI) who called it “the revival of Georgian cinema”.

The story centers around the lives of teenage girls living in Tbilisi in the 1990s. The realistically depicted story becomes even more convincing through Romanian cinematographer Oleg Mutu’s camera work, which intimately reveals each character and brings the audience back to the Tbilisi of burning tires, never-ending bread queues and the myriad social problems that burdened the population, who tried to survive in such a violent environment – an environment where people gave weapons to each other as symbols of love and where weddings are finished with a sad dance that symbolizes the farewell of one’s childhood.

Simindis Kundzuli (Corn Island)

(Directed by Giorgi Ovashvili, Georgia/Germany/ France/Czech Republic/Kazakhstan/Hungary, 2014)

“Georgian director George Ovashvili weaves a powerful lifeand-death fable from simple ingredients in this almost wordless drama,” the Hollywood Reporter wrote in reference to Ovashvili’s film.

Ovashvili first got the idea to make the film while he was still working on The Other Bank movie; when scriptwriter Nugzar Shataidze told him about the outline of a documentary he had in mind. The story was about small islands that are formed on the Enguri River in summer, where peasants grow corn. The film takes place on an artificially created island, where an Abkhazian man and his granddaughter live in a shack he built. They grow corn there. Unexpectedly, a wounded Georgian soldier ends up in their house. As a result, their lives are completely changed. Despite the fact that the film takes place during the Georgian-Abkhazian conflict, its focus and main axis centers around the everyday life of the grandfather and his granddaughter and observes the interaction between humans and nature. The film, which has very little dialogue, was called “film-meditation full of wisdom characteristic to oriental fairy tales” by some, while others called it an “emotionally charged master class in minimalism.”

The film was Georgia’s candidate for an Oscar nomination, making the shortlist. It received prestigious awards from the Athens, Cottbus, Freiburg, Minsk, Montpelier, Palm Springs, Sao Paolo and Trieste Film Festivals. The award it received from the Class A Karlovy Vary International Film Festival – the Crystal Globe – is undoubtedly represents a huge success for the Georgian director.

Dede (Mother)

(Directed by Mariam Khachvani, Georgia/Croatia/UK/Ireland/The Netherlands/Qatar, 2017)

Mariam Khachvani’s film takes place in Georgia’s mountainous region of Svaneti. A young girl named Diana is forced to obey the rules and traditions of this desolate region.

Dede is Khachvani’s first full-length picture filmed in Svaneti, Kazbegi and Kaspi. A large portion of the film features the Svanetian language and, aside from actor Giorgi Babluani, all the other performers are amateur actors.

“My goal was to show Svaneti life,” notes Khachvani, who is from the village of Ushguli (Svaneti) herself. “I wanted to say that each person must make his or her life choices. Svaneti has a rich culture. It has always been distinguished for its different traditions, which are often presented in a distorted or negative manner. That’s why I decided to make a film that would describe real Svanetian life, which is different and interesting.”

The film, which depicts life in the high-mountainous region and the role of women in a traditional society, won APSA’s

Cultural Diversity Award under the patronage of UNESCO. The film also received a special prize at the 52nd Karlovy Vary International Film Festival. Dede also received awards from the Yerevan (Golden Apricot), Montpelier, Eurasia and Beijing International Film Festivals.

Mandarinebi (Tangerines)

(Directed by Zaza Urushadze, Estonia/Georgia, 2013)

The Estonian-Georgian film production Tangerines is the first Georgian film that was nominated as the Best Foreign Language Foreign Film both for the Oscar Academy Rewards and the Golden Globe Awards. This is a movie that the Hollywood Reporter called “an unbelievable and stunning film”. Director Zaza Urushadze also received the Antoni Gaudi prize in Catalonia in the Best European Film nomination.

“I had the privilege of attending four different festivals this year and I’d like to tell you that Tangerines is the best film,” noted well-known Hungarian Film Director Istvan Szabo during the closing ceremony of the Warsaw Film Festival.

The film takes place in a war-torn and abandoned village, where only two old Estonians are left. They say they have to look after the tangerines, harvest and prepare them for selling. It doesn’t matter that from time to time Georgian or Abkhazian soldiers are coming and going and bombs rain down from the sky. They seem to refuse to face the facts and try to continue with their lives by looking after the tangerines and their homes.

The film was listed among IMDB’s top 250 films. Along with numerous nominations, the film received the top awards at Bari, Jerusalem, Mannheim-Heidelberg, Tallinn and Warsaw Film Festivals.

GEORGIAN MANGA

Back in the day when 16-bit gaming consoles were at the height of technological development, we would get together at our friend’s house after school and play WWF WrestleMania on a SEGA Genesis. The game didn’t have a deep meaning – it was just a fighting game. There was one avatar that was different from others – he was fat, and if I’m not mistaken, his hairstyle also looked different on that 16-bit image. Each fighter had his own name. The fat guy was called Yokozuna and when you selected him, the announcer’s voice would present him in a special manner – Yo – ko –zuna! That’s how the name was syllabicated in the recorded message and the voice was quite deep, which was supposed to let you know that Yokozuna was supposed to be a very strong, dangerous fighter. In reality, he wasn’t that strong. There were better fighters in that game. For example, Bam-Bam Bigelow and Sean Michaels, but these guys, just like the others, looked very similar. In other words, there was nothing special about them apart from their costumes and fighting skills.

Only Yokozuna was different.

During that period, in that Georgia, when electricity and water was supplied on a scheduled basis to the whole population and only one-out-of-ten people lived a full life, computers were a big luxury. Therefore, we didn’t really care why Yokozuna was different from the other avatars.

One day however, that friend of ours told us that Yokozuna was a sumo wrestler; he had asked his dad about it the previous night. I wouldn’t say my friend had been enlightened

in the rules of Sumo wrestling by his father, but he did explain the rules and principles of the sport to him in a few words: it looks like wrestling, but the wrestlers are even bigger. That’s how I first found out about sumo.

Now you probably expect that I would start telling stories about my obsession with sumo to this very day, but that’s not it at all. I would sometimes hear news about sumo here and there, but I didn’t really follow the sport and Old Babylonian Oracle knows how long it would have been like that if not for Tochinoshin’s recent successes.

Tochinoshin stands for Tochigi’s heart in Japanese and its hieroglyph has a heart-shaped form. Tochigi is a prefecture in Japan and “shin” means “heart”. That’s how Georgian sumo wrestler Levan Gorgadze became Tochinoshin – Tochigi’s heart. Very soon after, he also became the whole Georgia’s heart in Japan.

Telling the history of how sumo appeared in Japan, whether it has roots in another country, or whether sumo fights took place from the second century BC or sixth century AD is a pointless endeavor. Sumo has a long history comprised of many funny and tragic details. The Japanese believe that sumo is a sport of the Shinto gods. This belief is so strong that sumo was untouched even after Buddhism arrived from China and Korean peninsula, dramatically weakening the Shinto influence.

Sumo’s rules are not difficult, but it incorporates a lot of ritualistic and symbolic moves. Everything has significance, both before and after the fight, as well as during training. The lives of sumo wrestlers is not much different

SANDRO NAVERIANI

illustration: Tatia Nadareishvili

from that of ascetic lamas, who have taken the vow of silence. Therefore, the Japanese audience becomes even more sensitive when a foreigner shares all of their history and culture, and lives by observing and respecting these traditions.

On May 30 after being promoted to ozeki, Tochinoshin dedicated this achievement to Georgians, Georgia and the 100th anniversary of Georgian independence. After that he returned to his homeland and met with his fans. Some of them met him at the airport, some in his hometown. He was overwhelmed by so much emotion and failed to hold back his tears. Despite the fact that everyone knew why the giant wrestler was crying, nobody could fully understand what Tochinoshin felt when he shared his big victory with his family and friends in his own country. I don’t know either, but after such grand success, his emotions could have been a result of him reflecting on the time when, as an 18 year-old sumo wrestler, he went to a Japanese tournament with a tourist visa, remained there and decided to start a career there without knowing a single word of Japanese. He must have also recalled how he had to come back twice: once after his grandmother died in a car accident (he almost gave up everything then) and a second time in 2009 after the war with Russia when he was summoned to take part in military exercises.

After his great victory and his return to Georgia, Tochinoshin probably couldn’t recall those thirteen years, in which he engaged in a laborious training while being thousands of kilometers away from his family. Only his family members, fans and childhood friends stood before him, all looking at that big man with rapture and smiles on their faces, as he was the first Georgian and third European to be granted the Ozeki title. Ozeki is the second title in the sumo hierarchy. Only Yokozuna stands above Ozeki.

One cannot look at Tochinoshin’s career without admiration. This is not a classic case of progress characterized by the hard work of great athletes. His story is as different from the experiences of others, as sumo is different from other sports. It is said that 28-33 is the best age for sumo wrestlers. Tochinoshin is 30 now. Therefore, he should reach the peak of his form and achieve even greater successes in

the following years. I don’t know sumo in a way that would allow me to make predictions about whether Tochinoshin will attain the Yokozuna title. Only he can answer that question.

However, if I were an artist or if I liked inventing heroic stories and had an artist friend or if I didn’t like inventing stories and didn’t have an artist friend either and were a publisher instead, or even without being a publisher if I just liked comics or damn it, if I were nobody and I just happened upon a Japanese magazine or newspaper featuring Tochinoshin’s caricature I would start thinking about a new Georgian illustrated fairy tale featuring Tochinoshin as the main character – a kind, enormous hero, who plays WrestleMania on Sega Genesis in the rundown Georgia of the 1990s together with his friends. It’s cold outside and it’s dark. People need help, hope and heroes. That’s when Tochinoshin starts his journey and his heroic epos. He would defeat a million robots, help a country to make the sun rise again, help others to flourish and finally, everything would end well. This ending would be announced with a kind, but still ferocious and self-confident voice: Yo-ko-zuna! Also syllabicated. Then it would no longer be a metaphor.

SIX YEARS OF PRESENCE IN GEORGIA AND NEW SHOPPING CULTURE IN TBILISI

Now that several major malls have sprouted up in the capital, it may prove difficult to recall the meager choices we had while shopping in the city just six years ago. Back then, the options for buying clothing and accessories were limited. At the time, one could hardly imagine the plethora of retail choices we have in 2018.

But how did we get where we are today?

The big break came in April of 2012, when more than 15 well-known brands opened retail shops in the capital. For Georgians, these products would previously have to be purchased abroad or online. The opening of these shops in Tbilisi brought with them numerous opportunities for both ordinary clients and for the entire trading sector. The company that led this large-scale breakthrough was Retail Group Georgia.

During a conversation with Voyager, the Company’s General Director, Jim McNicholas, recalled how he began studying the new market through online resources and print materials as soon as he arrived in Georgia. He wanted to find out early what the idiosyncrasies of Georgian culture and lifestyle were.

“Reading and online research can never top the real experiences and everyday encounters with the local culture, aspirations and perseverance that these proud people demonstrate each day in ordinary situations,” says McNicholas. “When I first came to Tbilisi in September of 2013, I mainly observed what the people were wearing, what they were hanging to dry on clotheslines. I observed the main colors worn by passers-by, and I have to admit that black was still the most widespread color on the Georgian market back then.”

However, McNicholas’ experiences told him that the changes occurring in people’s lifestyles were much more substantial than the changes occurring within the dominant color fashions. Diversity, more choice and innovations needed to be offered in order to achieve that goal and Retail Group Georgia set its sights on that.

“When you bring in so many international brands to the market you have to trust the clients and let them browse freely. We believed from the very start that Georgia would accept the new brands very well – we trusted people. With time, we also managed to adapt our mix of brands to the clients’ aspirations and demands.”

And indeed, the company made an impressive change in the public’s habits, color range, style and lifestyle. The number of brands also gradually increased and nowadays, Retail Group Georgia is one of the major players on the fashion retail market, managing up to 50 shops and 35 brands that are distributed in Tbilisi’s two biggest trading centers – Tbilisi Mall and East Point Mall.

The company still dedicates a lot of time to market research, in other words, to researching the changes in clothing trends and studying society’s shopping habits and rituals. Thanks to client feedback, the company manages to take into account the customers’ interests, introduce innovative standards in the trade industry and offer Georgian clients constantly updated collections, special discounts and gift cards adapted to their needs, all the while closely following the world’s trends.

Mr. McNicholas says that the human factor plays a significant role in the company. Increasing employee motivation and providing them with development opportunities is as important for the company as making their customers happy. Many elements of the company’s corporate culture bear this out, including transparent boxes placed in the office and shops where each employee can place a letter expressing his or her opinions or wishes.

Retail Group Georgia is subordinated to Alhokair Fashion Retail – one of the leading companies in the world, with a diverse portfolio. Alhokair Fashion Retail’s head office is situated in Dubai. The company includes up to 90 brands and manages up to 2,000 shops in the Caucasus, Central Asia, North Africa, the Balkans and the United States.

Most of Retail Group Georgia’s personnel were comprised of professionals invited from abroad when the company was taking its first steps onto the Georgian market. The reason for that was the lack and/or absence of the required professionals in Georgia.

“Trading is a complex area that requires the involvement of talented people so that the best quality products, at the best prices and at the right time, can reach our clients. That’s what sets us apart on the Georgian market. Our main concept is following: We take the best international fashion brands, their principles and mix it all with

the knowledge and experience that exists on the local market, and this experience is owned by the personnel that obtained it while working in that market. That’s why the most successful world brands select us as their partners,” notes McNicholas, who is especially proud of the fact that today, the company employs mostly Georgian professionals, some of whom first learned their new profession in the trading sector and are now training new staff members.

In its sixth year of operations the company, which is founded on five unchanging values (trust, healthy conflict, commitment, accountability and attention to results) regards itself in the following manner:

“Our main achievement is what we give back to the country. Currently, we employ about 630 Georgian citizens and we hope that trend will continue as our company grows and develops. Of course, the process of development continues and we always keep that in mind. We have been recognized for our high standards on the Georgian market many times during the last six years, we have been given many international awards, our local team has also improved its professionalism, the team has grown up and, thanks to their knowledge, work and loyalty to their job, we are now a business. It’s a great honor to work with these talented, educated and skilled people, who did a lot in order to give Tbilisi’s fashion market the look and form it has today.”

According to McNicholas, the company is planning to increase both the number of employees and brands in the future. However, the list is already impressive, including brands like Zara, Bershka, Massimo Dutti, Mango, Marks & Spencer, Aldo, Oysho, Accessorize, Pull & Bear, Topshop, Gap, Clarks, Jennyfer, Banana Republic, Zippy, Promod… Basically, without all of these well-known brands, shopping would seem unimaginable in today’s Tbilisi. Moreover, this bounty makes us forget the habits and limitations that we had just six years ago.

XOSHTRIK

Tamar Khoshtaria is a journalist by profession. According to her, it all started with a necklace that she made from two angel figures she found on the Dry Bridge flea market. She wore it everywhere before a shop owner in New York told her to make copies and send them to his shop for selling. Since then, Khoshtaria began making jewelry under the Xoshtrik label.

Her jewelry’s forms are minimalistic and unassuming and takes on a philosophy that reimagines circles and rectangles, creating a new body. It’s a sort of a puzzle for the designer too – how to fit jewelry to the human body in a harmonious manner. Xoshtrik’s jewelry is an interesting synthesis of straight lines. They fit the human body and create geometry whether it’s a copper necklace around one’s neck or a ring made of flat, rectangle silver disc.

Buyers.ge

Dotstbilisi.com

Objectnews shop in Stamba Hotel

SADARISMELIA

If you don’t know how to tell a story through jewelry or turn a word into a necklace yet, then you have to look through Mariam Natroshvili and Detu Jincharadze’s work. The project titled “Homework” authored by this artistic duo is about the words strewn in public areas and unexpected places, they tell a story about the city and people, buildings and places. You probably couldn’t have helped seeing Sadarismelia’s words strewn in the streets: “დრო” (time), “ხვალ” (tomorrow), “ თუ” (if) or “ალბათ” (maybe)… “Word is silver, silence is gold” – that phrase inspired the designers to turn the written word into jewelry. Their silver pieces often tell a story and transport us to a fairytale world. Words created with minimalistic touches or jewelry from the “1001 Nights” series are a sort of talisman that can change your fate if you believe in them.

SAQARELI

Ketevan Saqareli has been making jewelry for several years now. The jewelry is intended for those who believe that self-expression and underscoring one’s individualism is of essential importance. She has her own distinctive style and through various interpretations of enamel technology she creates jewelry with original designs and vivid colors. Jewelry made of precious or semiprecious metals and gems is a kind of interplay between time and style. Earrings called “Tita” that have a Sovietperiod design, bring a different sort of emotion to her collection. As a result, you will feel like the most modern person while wearing accessories that your grandma could have been wearing. Jewelry items created based on the themes presented in Georgian modernist artist Petre Otskheli’s paintings are the most popular among Ketevan’s pieces, including the re-imagined “Euroman” necklace and faceted earrings made with black and white ornaments.

Buyers.ge

Dotstbilisi.com

SOFIA GONGLI

Sopo Gongliashvili’s pieces are a treasure that you either have or don’t have. Several years ago when Gongliashvili presented her pieces at London Fashion Week’s Fashion Showcase, her work was assessed in the following manner:

“It’s not simply jewelry, it has to be sold in art museums.”

Vitreous enamel pieces created by Sopo are not just jewelry; they have gained their distinctive place in people’s wardrobes for quite some time now. Yes, in the wardrobes, because due to their massiveness, colors and beauty, one can’t simply call them jewelry. Magical birds perched on earrings, massive rings/paintings covering the whole wrist or crocodiles motionlessly lying across the wrists, fascinate the visitors with their unbelievable color synthesis, simplicity of figures and oriental esthetics.

Curioconcept.com

Buyers.ge

SOLO Boutique

SILHOUETTE

“Georgia has only recently appeared on the international fashion stage. However, interest in the country is rapidly increasing. That factor, as well as our desire to create something new and interesting together made us think it was time to start a joint venture. That’s how Silhouette Jewelry was created,” say the creators of this interesting brand. Their collections made of silver, brass and enamel have always had specific theme. It may be African motifs or the 2018 spring/summer collection called “Visionary Woman”. Hearts, stars and crowns beautifully fitted to ears with a harmonious synthesis of enamel and brass are intended for really visionary, merry and daring women.

Moreislove.com

Dotstbilisi.com

Farfetch.com

SOLO Boutique

MORE IS LOVE

MORE is LOVE was founded in 2012 by Nino Eliava and Ana Mokia. Their friendship started in Mexico where they happened to travel while they were quite young. Then they went to London, where they studied the basics of business management and worked really hard. That’s how the online shop was launched, which at the same time laid the foundation for creating a new accessory brand called “0711”. MORE is LOVE offers its customers an impressive array of accessories and jewelry. Individuals with various tastes will have access to high-demand new brands like Walk of Shame, Kimhekim, 0711 and LIYA on this online shop. MORE is LOVE’s team assists the buyers in making the right choices through its online magazine. In 2018 on the 5th anniversary of the company’s inception, MORE is LOVE opened its first shop in the middle of Tbilisi at 14 Leo Kiacheli Street.

Moreislove.com

I don’t know how about you, but I clearly remember the musthave tube shaped hats of my childhood, which you had to put on your head and go to school wearing. Two years ago, Ketevan Kherkheulidze created a similar kind of headwear for herself and after receiving a lot of compliments, she decided to manufacture it for sale. However, unlike the “tube” headwear of our childhood, Keti’s MUZARADI (helmet) is elegant and distinguished. Kherkheulidzes’ family emblem is depicted on the light headwear made with various colors and materials. This little touch makes the Georgian designer’s “invention” even more attractive. If you’re wondering how a military element can turn into a fashion and beauty attribute, you have to try on Keti Kherkheulidze’s helmet.

Moreislove.com

Buyers.ge

Flyingpainter.com

Chaos Concept Store

ESHVI

“ESHVI” is a London-based jewelry brand that has its own distinctive style. Jewelry created for strong women will remind you of the interplay between living colors and design. After Natia Chkhartishvili graduated from London’s Central Saint Martins College of Arts and Design she founded a jewelry brand called ESHVI together with Tamar Svanidze. The work on the first collection took eight months and quickly found its way onto the pages of Vogue’s Elle and Harpers Bazaar magazines.

“For me quality is the most important factor in achieving success. I don’t want ESHVI to be sold everywhere, it has its own niche and specific customers; it’s distinguished by its individual style,” Natia noted in one of her interviews. Designer Gisele Ganne makes sure that the style is distinctive. Previously she worked as Stephen Webster’s main designer and now she’s making jewelry adorned with expensive metals and gems. In addition to both expensive and inexpensive jewelry, they recently started to make small bags and hats as well.

eshvi.co.uk

Moreislove.com

Farfetch.com

SOLO Boutique

DJABA DIASSAMIDZE

“He’s a serious designer, but he also knows how to make sure his fans have a good time in his clothes,” – Vogue wrote about Georgian designer Djaba Diassamidze’s collection. Djaba graduated from Haute Couture Syndicate School in France and has been living in Paris since he was 17. He worked on private commissions the first few years. He says he still can’t regard fashion as a profession, because he believes that interest in clothing and sense of style are inherent qualities. He creates dresses for various types of women and adds: “I create it and let it go. It will be found and fitted by whoever pleases.”

ObjectNews is an experimental shop situated in the lobby of Stamba Hotel. Imagine wanting to buy jewelry and going to hotel Stamba based on a friend’s advice. Since the ordinary-looking lob-

by doesn’t resemble a jewelry shop, you’re looking in different directions in a confused manner and when finally you see the shop, the smiling guide approaches you and takes you to the world of discovery. The idea to create this unusual shop belongs to Tamar Khoshtaria, and she shared it with Mariam Natroshvili and Detu Jincharadze. That’s why various boxes placed on the shelves contain jewlry made by Xoshtrik and Sadarismelia. You open each box together with the guide, look through the absolutely unique pieces inside and listen to the stories of how they were created.

“The silver pieces placed in the box incorporate various thoughts, dreams or consistent patterns” –the shop creators say.

His collections are dominated by black, white and red colors. Each show looks like a theatrical play. His shows are a mixture of drama and intimacy. Women wearing Djaba Diassamidze’s classic style clothing are amazingly elegant, sexy and graceful. Angelina Jolie wore his hat for her recent Vanity Fair photo session. Farfetch.com;

CHRONOGRAPH – “TIME RECORDER”

There is a clock inside a tower in a historic building situated on the main city square where thousands of Tbilisi residents and visitors mill about. Each hour the clock chimes to the tune of Laghidze’s “Tbilisio”, letting passersby know that an hour has passed.

Each person has a different reaction to this pleasant phenomenon; some are even a bit scared by the chimes, because of the environment, which is noisy and fast. Dozens of watches tick on the ground floor of the same building, but the time is different there – calm, reliable and future oriented. This is how it has been for the last six years.

Upon its opening, Chronograph, a jewelry, accessories and watch boutique situated on the ground floor of the historic building has become an organic part of the old building’s contemporary life.

The boutique’s double glass doors close automatically as soon as one enters, muting the sounds of the vibrant cityscape outside. Visitors are greeted by a sparkling wooden floor, walls covered of wood paneling, with items neatly placed under glass showcases. Some accessories are displayed on the wooden islands placed around the hall. There are several spaces here. One of the halls has a VIP room at the end, where you can sit down in an armchair, enjoy a high-quality alcoholic beverage and proceed to shop with comfort.

Aside from its elegant environment, Chronograph is also distinguished for its exquisite service. Consultants don’t bore visitors; if required, they provide them with information about the items in a complete and comprehensible fashion.

Visitors to Chronograph will be enraptured by all the sparkling items displayed in the showcases. One can’t help being bewitched by Chopard’s newest collection, especially the bracelet and the ring featuring a white heart. You will be mesmerized by Chopardissimo’s modern, but classic wedding ring adorned with a diamond. Another item of adoration is Jaeger Le Coultre’s exquisitely refined wrist watch called Master Ultra Thin Moon.

Chronograph features watches from 12 leading brands. Items from each brand are constantly updated based on the collections. Therefore, it’s impossible to visit the boutique without selecting

Aside from the fact that Chronograph offers its patrons the world’s leading brands of premium and luxury jewelry and watches, you can also purchase children’s accessories, boxes/ safes for storing watches or jewelry and even a photo frame.

At the end of the day, if you want something truly unique and inspiring, something that no one else in the entire galaxy has, Chronograph is a must visit for you.

Chronograph doesn’t end its client interaction with the sale. Chronograph watch specialist Edgar Karapetian, is the best watch-maker in the country.

According to the dictionary, a Chronograph is a tool for measuring the smallest periods of time – a sort of “time recorder”. It can also be an ancient written monument that world history. The word “chronograph” may be interpreted in two ways in the shop situated at 2 Freedom Square: by buying an item here you write your own history and also time-keeping starts anew.

THE MAGIC GEOGRAPHY OF CLUBBING

Bassiani is not just a club. It is an institution - these words by the bellboy from Wes Anderson’s Grand Budapest Hotel best describes the essence of Bassiani. This club has raised the ante in Tbilisi’s music scene. Many have found a second home in this joint reigning under the Dinamo Stadium, because here you can be what you are; it is a place where the different are not bullied, and where relations build on respect and love.

It may be difficult today to appreciate how Bassiani has changed our worldview, but time will come when sociologists will delve into it. Meanwhile, you can visit the club and dance your shoes off (the favorite phrase of K. Ivanov, the vocalist for СБПЧ, a Russian indie band) on Bassiani’s main dance floor, or the smaller Horoom hall with relatively softer music and brighter lighting.

There are two ways to get into Bassiani. You either buy a ticket after passing face control, or you register on the club's website and, after verification, buy your pass online. One ticket per person is strictly enforced. It’s probably clear why.

2 Tsereteli Avenue www.bassiani.com

ALEXANDRE BAGRATION-DAVITASHVILI

KHIDI

It is called Khidi (The Bridge) because it is located under a bridge. No one would have imagined so much space inside the furthest pillar of Bagrationi Bridge, large enough to fit a club with a sizeable hall, a small dance floor, enormous public circulation areas, and a courtyard. The mean techno music here will give you goosebumps. The club’s perfect acoustics, along with lighting and the sound engineer, will help you embrace the music to the max. Khidi and Bassiani strike a balance between the two banks of the Mtkvari River, making the outskirts of Tbilisi all the more appealing. As mentioned, some of the most exciting techno music is offered here, but there is much more to it - softer laid-back and experimental tunes are played in the smaller hall, known affectionately as G2. Khidi frequently hosts cultural events and ceremonies of different styles, most notably the recent Elektronavti award ceremony and a meeting with film director David Lynch - glory be his name! To get into Khidi, all you have to do is pass face control. If you do not feel like standing in line, just register on the website and buy tickets online after verification.

It’s on the right bank of the Mtkvari River in the furthest pillar of Bagrationi Bridge.

www.khidi.ge

DRAMA

“From Heaven To Drama is a neutral indie territory, a symbiosis of arts, with music to listen to and social parties to enjoy,” reads Drama's website. Frankly, Drama is the coolest bar in the history of Tbilisi, winning our hearts and minds with its neon lights since inception. The bar is located in a gorgeous early 20th century modernist building still referred to as Melik Azaryants' House in honor of its old owner.

After having passed tough face control, you find yourself in a place adorned with rugs, where furniture from the time of Soviet modernism harmonizes perfectly with red neon lights, tall figs, and artificial palm trees.

These details, along with a no smoking policy, create a perfectly positive atmosphere. On Thursdays, Drama offers music to listen, dance music on Fridays and Saturdays, and more energetic stuff on Sundays.

37 Rustaveli Avenue

(Across from Rustaveli subway station)

www.facebook.com/pg/dramatbilisi

MTKVARZE

In every city taken by developing countries as role models of clubbing, the nicest establishments are located outside the downtown area, and for good reason, or reasons. As a rule, the suburbs are rich in vacated buildings and facilities with the empty space inside ideal for an electronic rave. Moreover, the rent is cheap and, most importantly, it is far from residential areas - no sleepless neighbors to call the police and demand your arrest as the ringleader of rave crime. The first club in Georgia to take the bold step of moving outside downtown was Dalood, a premature move, in my opinion - similar to Akhenaten renouncing the pantheon and embracing monotheism - because other clubs and ravers of that time could not keep up with Dalood, so the club eventually closed.

Mtkvarze was the first club of our time to have moved to the suburbs. With the same naming convention as Khidi, it is called Mtkvarze because it hangs over the Mtkvari River. The 1950s building of a seafood restaurant and a pub in one has turned into an excellent club featuring Sadar Bahar, Black Madonna, Rune Lindbaek, Roy Perez, Tama Sumo, Bjorn Torske, and many other music celebrities. The music at Mtkvraze is softer in comparison to Khidi or Bassiani.

The club may remind you of Watergate in Berlin. Mtkvarze incorporates two dance floors and one mammoth balcony for mingling. Both sunset and dawn are simply spellbinding here. The club frequently hosts exhibitions, film screenings, and lectures.

It’s on the right bank of the Mtkvari River, adjacent to Bagrationi Bridge. www.facebook.com/mtkvarze

CAFE GALLERY

Akhvlediani Street, formerly known as Perovskaya Street, used to be dotted with irrational - or maybe the other way around, very rational - imitations of pubs and bars with noisy cover bands. The opening of a small, cozy, and quiet cafe made our, that is, the snob community’s, day. In the early 2000s, artist Sandro Antadze’s Cafe Gallery was quick to become our favorite place: a fireplace, white walls decorated with Sandro’s paintings of choice, a small and comfortable courtyard, high ceilings, large windows and, most importantly, the plaque of honor celebrating Gallery’s friends and featuring our passport photos.

Those who did not happen to have a passport photo would donate their library passes or IDs. Someone went so far as to pin a London Underground travel card. Two or three years into operation, when parties intensified at Gallery, Sandro Antadze’s neighbors made it clear to him that it was about time he find a larger place. This is how Cafe Gallery wound up in a building housing a Russian church until the 1920s.

MEOBA

What does the word meoba (identity) mean? It is a superlative form stemming from the pronoun me (I in Georgian) defined by opinion journalist Hermann Szabo as follows: “Transcendental I free of ego’s negative.” Initially, the Meoba Bar was a festival project developed for KaZantip. Later, however, on popular demand, it transformed into a permanently operating bar and found abode near the Opera House. Recently, Das Aleviplatz, a place for drinking and photo sessions, was arranged inside Meoba, in designing which the bar’s owners were inspired by the Berlin Underground.

Meoba brings together Tbilisi’s elite youth who never shy away from drinking. Alcohol here is affordable and high quality at the same time. Since May 1, Meoba has been a smoke-free establishment. Accordingly, you can stay here for hours sipping your beer. Meoba’s signature cocktails are “Meoba”, “Chachalgini”, and “Pirshi”. Preplanned music programs at Meoba are offered only on Thursdays. As part of the My Vinyl offer, musically savvy guests can bring their own vinyl discs and listen to them far into the night. The bar is open every day, from 4-5 pm.

23 Rustaveli Avenue, Tbilisi www.facebook.com/meobayvelas

The new place was all about a new house, mouthwatering food, a larger courtyard, and more windows and fresh air. Back in its day, Cafe Gallery enlivened Tbilisi's dormant club life and emerged as the first gay-friendly joint. Yes, all were equal and happy in Cafe Gallery, a pleasant innovation in the extremely masculine Tbilisi of that time. Gallery is a place that has taught homophobes that the truth is in love, and that it does not matter with whom you are sleeping. What matters is to get enough sleep. The parties at Cafe Gallery are grand and highly recommended, with dances sometimes starting on Friday night and carrying on until Monday, just like in the glorious Panorama bar.

48 Rustaveli Avenue, on the corner of Griboedov Street www.facebook.com/pg/cafegallery.ge

BAUHAUS

Fairly recently, the renovation of Bauhaus’s second floor was completed. “I must be in Weimar.” This is the likeliest first impression you will get in this beautiful establishment with plain furniture and panel windows permitting lots of light. The bar called Bauhaus, initially operating in Sololaki, subsequently moved to the territory of the Nauka skate trash bar in the Deda Ena Park. Bauhaus is the best place to spend time in summer.

After wandering on the Mshrali (Dry) Bridge, you can delight in the establishment’s cool and affordable cocktails, such as 10 GEL Aperol Spritz, for example.

You can also enjoy cool sparkling wine and a variety of beers, and even dance a little in the evening. Bauhaus, together with neighboring Cafesito, has surely earned the Deda Ena Park, the only skate park in town, one more star in our imaginary ranking. In Bauhaus, you realize right away that Tbilisi’s youth are incredibly lively and beautiful, and that things are certainly looking up - a public restroom used to operate in this spot.

Deda Ena Park, Tbilisi

www.facebook.com/bauhauscafetbilisi

BLOW

This bar, which occupies the floor above Cafe Gallery, may remind you of Drama, but the thing is that the setting is more compactly arranged here.

The mirrors in the mansard of an old church building, where soft music is played on weekends, reflect the fireplace, candles, and different decorations. Blow is an ideal place for gold-digging.

GATE

At some point in history, the Contemporary Art Space in Batumi’s Miracle Park split in two and gave rise to Gate and Botanico. The latter is a relatively new lovely bar, while Gate steadily upholds Batumi’s techno reputation. House music and outright techno alike are appreciated here.

It is one of the rare music establishments in Batumi to continue operating beyond tourist season to offer performances by some of the coolest Georgian and visiting musicians. The only problem is that, around 6 am, the police arrive to stop the music. Things may change in the future, but last time I checked, we welcomed sunrise in silence.

Miracle Park, Batumi www.facebook.com/thegatebatumi

REFLECTOR

Next to Kutaisi University, one comes across a cozy quaint building with Chinese decorative elements. This example of modernist architecture was built in the early 20th century.

Its owner was a Chinese tea trader whose wealth was, of course, confiscated by the Soviet authorities. Today, this building houses the best establishment in its history.

Reflector is a club established by dedicated enthusiasts, a place where the best parties in Georgia are held on weekends.

Dancing through the night to hardcore techno is the preferred pastime activity here. Ravers from all over Georgia come here to listen to Georgian music celebrities.

Reflector's parties instill a sense of the uninhibited innocence of Detroit's basements of the 1980s. Reflector is on its way to revolutionize culture in the city.

Gold-digging is an urban term describing a search for wealthy partners. As a rule, a typical Tbilisi bohemian warms up in Blow and then moves on to another club. The bar's location in downtown, across from the Radisson Blu Iveria Hotel, is pretty convenient for moving around.

34 Griboedov Street, Tbilisi

www.facebook.com/BlowBarTbilisi

Funnily enough, the club's face control has no regard for authority or big names, so you may easily be told to hit the road, which is why you have to make sure you are on the list to enjoy the party.

Queen Tamar Street, Kutaisi

www.fecebook.com/clubreflector

ART AND FIGURES

A large canvass is spread on the floor. Two figures stand against a shining carrot-colored background. There’s nothing new at one glance, I can feel the artist’s style and world in a second. However, my attention is immediately drawn by one detail and I stare at it mesmerized – the figures on the canvass stand next to each other. The girl is holding the boy’s two fingers in her fist; she’s squeezing them tight and at the same time she’s looking at me.

“Maka, what a wonderful detail!” I tell artist Maka Batiashvili as I tilt my head from side to side in order to better take in the painting. “I painted this whole picture just for that one detail,” Maka replies, “otherwise, it would have been just another cute painting.”

PROJECTARTBEAT’S BEST-SELLING ARTISTS:

MAKA BATIASHVILI $50-4, 000

IRAKLI BUGIANI $400-9, 000

MAIA NAVERIANI $400-10, 000

LADO POCHKHUA $500-5, 500

BESO UZNADZE $400-7, 000

“Pair” Maka Batiashvili.

“After we hung Maka’s painting, the room became calm,” one of Maka’s clients said once. It was at that point that I realized that what Maka Batiashvili’s magical world of figures brings is the calm. Her paintings are stored in Ali Koch’s (Turkey) and David Schnell’s (Germany) collections. Besides exhibitions, Maka’s works have lots of buyers at Istanbul, UK and Ukraine art fairs.

“Maka Batiashvili is the best-selling artist in our gallery. Her paintings are sold for $4, 000,” Natia Bukia, one of the founders of ProjectArtBeat tells me. This modern art gallery launched its activities three and a half years ago with online sales and mobile exhibition areas. However, ProjectArtBeat founders soon opened a permanent exhibition hall at 14 Ingorokva Street in Tbilisi, where modern art connoisseurs are welcome to attend the exhibitions of Georgian artists. Together with its artists, ProjectArtBeat visits many international art fairs during the year. Participation in art fairs is prestigious for the gallery and it helps the artists realize what they’re painting and what trends there are in the world of art. In addition, art fairs raise the visibility artists, which has an impact on sales and prices.

Pricing is one of the most important issues. Gallery owner reviews the price an author offers and they define the final rate together. Of course, the size and composition of the painting plays a role. However, the main defining factor is the painting’s history and the artist’s biography – where they have been exhibited, whose collections their works are preserved in, what biennales and art fairs they have been a part of.

Attending international art fairs, whether in Dubai or Istanbul, is associated with quite large expenses. It’s true that in some places young galleries enjoy discounted prices; but each trip still costs up to $20,000. On the other hand, that is the area where art is sold.

“Maka Batiashvili is a star of the Istanbul Art Fair,” Natia continues, “her paintings are sold the most frequently. Maia Naveriani is the highest priced artist, whose

MAKA BATIASHVILI IS AN EMINENT MODERN ARTIST. HER PAINTINGS ARE MOVIE SHOTS “STOLEN” FROM EVERYDAY LIFE. SHE TURNS THEM INTO ORIGINAL PICTURES THROUGH UNEXPECTED DETAILS AND EXPRESSIVE CHARACTERS – WHETHER IT BE A BAR SCENE THAT MAKA CREATED AFTER A TRIP TO CHINA, A DANCING FIGURE OR A PATIENT PREPPED FOR SURGERY. MAKA HAS PARTICIPATED IN MANY SOLO AND GROUP EXHIBITIONS IN GEORGIA, THE NETHERLANDS, CZECH REPUBLIC, FRANCE, NORWAY, GERMANY, ITALY, USA, SOUTH KOREA AND CHINA… HER WORKS ARE OFTEN DISPLAYED AT ART FAIRS HELD IN ISTANBUL, THE UNITED KINGDOM AND UKRAINE. TOGETHER WITH ITS ARTISTS, PROJECTARTBEAT VISITS MANY INTERNATIONAL ART FAIRS DURING THE YEAR. PARTICIPATION IN ART FAIRS IS PRESTIGIOUS FOR THE GALLERY AND IT HELPS THE ARTISTS REALIZE WHAT THEY’RE PAINTING AND WHAT TRENDS THERE ARE IN THE WORLD OF ART. IN ADDITION, ART FAIRS RAISE THE VISIBILITY OF ARTISTS, WHICH HAS AN IMPACT ON SALES AND PRICES.

Maka Batiashvili. Photo by: Helen Ianovski

– WHAT’S THAT? – I’M ASKING NATIA. – THESE ARE NIKA’S OBJECTS, NIKA SAKHANBERIDZE’S.

– IS IT A JEWEL BOX? – MM, YES, MAYBE.

TOGETHER WITH ITS ARTISTS, PROJECTARTBEAT VISITS MANY INTERNATIONAL ART FAIRS DURING THE YEAR. PARTICIPATION IN ART FAIRS IS PRESTIGIOUS FOR THE GALLERY AND IT HELPS THE ARTISTS REALIZE WHAT THEY’RE PAINTING AND WHAT TRENDS THERE ARE IN THE WORLD OF ART. IN ADDITION, ART FAIRS RAISE THE VISIBILITY ARTISTS, WHICH HAS AN IMPACT ON SALES AND PRICES.

works cost $8,000 – they sell in Georgia quite well too.” It doesn’t matter where they sell paintings, whether it’s at a Tbilisi exhibition or the Dubai Art Fair, the price is always the same.

“What? You take these pieces to Dubai and don’t raise the price?”

“That’s what people often ask me, of course not. A painting should have one and the same price everywhere,” Natia says. Many galleries can’t assume the obligation of having to sign exclusive contracts with artists, so basically all galleries cooperate with all artists. Most galleries are unable to provide financial security to artists for a long-term period, which means renting them studios, paying them salaries, working on raising their visibility, printing catalogues for them and presenting their work at biennales and exhibitions. Therefore, Georgian galleries mostly exist through commissions from the pieces that are exhibited in their areas and sold from there. This commission is different in depending on the galleries and for different artists (ranging from between 20%-50%).

“There are artists that successfully sell their works both in Georgia and abroad. Nowadays, the internet makes it easier to sell your pieces. The other day I mailed my painting to Arizona and it arrived there in a week. Generally, it’s quite easy to find an artist in Georgia, that’s why everybody is trying to get in touch with them without involving galleries in the transaction. The clients have often contacted me directly,” Maka tells me.

Selling paintings from the studio, without paying commissions to the gallery, harms both the gallery and the market. In that case, the price of the artist’s work is not registered anywhere and consequently the pricing process of the concrete artist remains vague.

Maka Batiashvili is an exception in ProjectArtBeat’s case, because the gallery has an exclusive contract with her that contains specific obligations. Maka cannot sell any pieces without the gallery’s involvement. 50% of the selling price goes to ProjectArtBeat. At the same time, the gallery is obliged to purchase the artist’s pieces and pay her monthly salary in that form if her sales are down for a certain period of time.

However, according to Natia, they haven’t had any problems selling Maka’s pieces yet. In 2017, one of the wealthiest Turkish art collectors bought Maka’s two large-sized paintings at Istanbul Fair and that will naturally increase the artist’s value. Due to the fact that most galleries cannot offer

Natia Bukia. ProjectArtBeat

exclusive contracts to artists, cooperation between the gallery owners and artists in Georgia is based solely on trust. Gallery owners say that they are absolutely defenseless and they have no other option. They have to trust artists that they wouldn’t sell their works from studios in the case they start cooperating with them.

“It’s true that a contract with a gallery owner somehow restricts you, but on the other hand, if you don’t fully dedicate yourself to this work then nothing will come out of it. I may spend the whole day painting and be solely consumed by that activity. I can never be a teacher and an artist at the same time, while the gallery helps me exactly in that area,” Maka explains.

“It’s a big luxury to be an artist and be able to support oneself. I remember once reading an address on Instagram saying: “Don’t buy [the work of] dead artists, because they no longer need money!” While this work is not profitable, the fact that the gallery has managed to support itself for more than a year now is a big achievement. It’s true that Maka is the only artist we have an exclusive contract with, but we’ve never had problems with other artists. Our artists understand the importance of market prices and that works of art have to have the same prices everywhere. We trust them; the market is also gradually changing. If previously demand for modern artists was small, now it’s no longer the case. I have many friends who buy paintings – some for investment, some because they simply like them. I’m glad that our buyers are mostly young people, with their own businesses and they also love art,” Natia tells me at the end of the conversation.

I only now notice five various colored items behind us on a window sill. They look like jewel boxes, but quite strange-looking ones. I get closer and remove the cover. The cover is made of wrapped around acryl.

“What’s that?” I ask Natia.

“These are Nika’s objects – Nika Sakhanberidze’s.”

“Is it a jewel box?”

“Mm, yes, maybe.”

“I sell the pieces I like myself and my professional conscience is satisfied with that. I’m absolutely sure about the quality of those pieces and adequacy of their prices,” the founder of Baia Gallery, Baia Tsikoridze tells me.

Baia has been in this business for the last 25 years, she’s the owner of the first private gallery in Tbilisi. Therefore, when you are interested in discussing painting and sales, “then” and “now”, you must meet Baia Tsikoridze.

“Since we don’t have artist ratings and market statistics in Georgia, all gallery owners will give you information they believe is true,” Baia says. “The subjective viewpoint of an artist, gallery or buyer should not define the value of a piece; the prices should be defined by the art market, based on accurate data, prices of sold pieces, annual statistics, price change indices and ratings. However, paintings are still sold straight from the studios circumventing the galleries. Therefore, when an artist comes to me and says they sold the painting for $100,000 and can’t produce a document proving that, the data won’t end up on my website.”

The technological study or expert evaluation of works of art does not take place on our art market. Therefore, it’s impossible to insure the work (as it can’t be valuated) or establish its authenticity. Correspondingly, buyers are also unprotected in Georgia, because nobody conducts the official monitoring of data and buyers often don’t know what an artist may be worth.

BAIA GALLERY’S BESTSELLING ARTISTS:

MERAB ABRAMISHVILI $5 000-90, 150

IRAKLI PARJIANI $1 000-50, 000

KOTE SULABERIDZE $300-25, 000

TENGIZ MARI $2, 000-7, 000

GURANDA KLIBADZE $500-7 000

Baia Tsikoridze. “Baia Gallery”

The absence of an expert evaluation may result in you buying a forged work of art. The technological, visual and informational inspection of a piece helps define when the painting was created, whether the painting really belongs to the specific author based on its visual inspection and in whose collection or in which gallery it was last preserved.

According to Baia, due to the absence of an appraisal system, various works by different artists are often forged (for example the works of Edmond Kalandadze and Irakli Parjiani). On November 25, 2016, a suspicious piece called “Demon with a Sword” presented as Niko Pirosmani’s painting was displayed at France’s Leclere Maison de Ventes auction house’s Armenian Art Section (that auction house is not considered to be a high-level establishment). Nor did the painting look like a Pirosmani work judging by its style and other characteristics. However, it was still sold for nearly $11, 000.

“Our gallery has been studying the Georgian art market for the last 25 years and we now have quite a large database that includes the prices of the works of Georgian artists both in Georgia and abroad. Based on this database, we’ve been working on developing a website called “Price and Rating” for the last 4 years. I believe it will be presented in about six months. The website will provide exhaustive information to buyers pertaining to prices and indices. As a result, investment values of Georgian works of art will be defined. The interests of artists, private collectors, buyers and galleries will be protected and the artists’ ratings will be defined.”

“There’s a danger that artists and gallery owners may be swept away by commercialism. As a result, the price of the piece may end up being higher than its artistic value,” Baia says, pointing out another problem – repetition of one and the same composition. Quite often artists would paint a composition and then create several versions of it. All of them are then sold for the same price. On international markets it’s necessary to indicate how many versions of a series of works exist and

“Black Cheetah”. Merab Abramishvili

Exhibition poster, Sotheby’s Auction House, London, New Bond Street

this information has to be indicated in a catalogue-raisonne (a sort of document containing detailed data about the painting and the artist). Correspondingly, the price of the first version is substantially higher than the price of its copies. It doesn’t happen this way in Georgia, so several buyers may end up buying identical pieces for the same price.

During the conversation I notice Merab Abramishvili’s paintings in the corner. I discovered his work many years ago. I immediately singled out his “frescos” among the works of art displayed in the hall due to their frankness and amazing calmness. It was a strange feeling; first I thought I was standing in a black cave and looking through frescos of primordial beauty holding a candle in my hands. Then they looked like old rugs to me that one had to observe closely, because being worn out by time, they didn’t seem to have long to live.

Abramishvili is the best example of an artist’s rising price. He first appeared on the Georgian art market at the end of the 1980s and he’s been considered to be one of the highest-priced artists since. His paintings became especially valuable starting from 2013-2014 when Baia Gallery presented he and other Georgian artists at the Crossroads Exhibition held at Sotheby’s auction house. In 2006, the price of his works increased significantly for the first time, ranged from $1,000 to $10,000. However, once his paintings sold at Sotheby’s for the first time, the price of his paintings surges to the $8,000-40,000 range. Today Abramishvili’s paintings are successfully sold at both Sotheby’s and Christie’s and this modern Georgian artist’s works are sold at record rates on the international market.

Baia recalls an anecdote about Merab Abramishvili. In 1995 a Dutch lady visited her gallery and liked Abramisvhili’s “Samasi Aragveli” (Three Hundred Aragvelians) painting; she went straight to his studio and bought it for $500. 21 years later in 2016, Abramishvili’s “Samasi Aragveli” painting was sold for £62,500 at a Sotheby’s auction titled “The Modern Orient”. This was the highest auction price paid for an Abramishvili painting. However, Baia believes the price will increase even more.

“A work of art presented at an auction starts with a fallback price. There were cases when paintings failed to sell abroad, but were sold here for much higher prices. I think it depends on the attitude of collectors towards this artist and it amounts to a sort of victory for the local market. Based on Merab Abramishvili’s example, we can say that we have joined international art market,” notes Baia.

The existence of art collectors is also important for the development of the local market. Some buy works of art based on personal taste, expertise and demands, and some buy the paintings because of the nametags or as an investment. The rest think about interior design, as for them a painting is just a part of the décor. Nowadays being an art collector is quite a prestigious social status and publications like Forbes, Business Insider and The Telegraph periodically publish the lists of the richest and most profitable collectors.

While some collectors enjoy paintings they own behind closed doors, kept forever under lock and key, the others found museums with the paintings they have collected over the years and those museums are now quite famous. Sergei Shchukin was one of such collectors. Despite mocking from his compatriots, he collected and commissioned paintings from the likes of Gauguin, Monet, Matisse and Picasso. Nowadays, his

THE TECHNOLOGICAL STUDY OR EXPERT EVALUATION OF WORKS OF ART DOES NOT TAKE PLACE ON OUR ART MARKET.THEREFORE, IT’S IMPOSSIBLE TO INSURE THE WORK (AS IT CAN’T BE VALUATED) OR ESTABLISH ITS AUTHENTICITY. CORRESPONDINGLY, BUYERS ARE ALSO UNPROTECTED IN GEORGIA, BECAUSE NOBODY CONDUCTS THE OFFICIAL MONITORING OF DATA AND BUYERS OFTEN DON’T KNOW WHAT AN ARTIST MAY BE WORTH.

Room 1. Giorgi Kochiashvili

Room 2. Giorgi Kochiashvili

treasury is one of the most revered collections of the State Hermitage and the Moscow Pushkin State Museum of Art. Or take for example Frieder Burda, whose impressive collection of German expressionists, abstractionists and modern artists (Gerhard Richter, Sigmar Polke and George Baselitz) became the basis of the Frieder Burda Museum in Baden-Baden. One cannot help mentioning Peggy Guggenheim in that regard, whose museum in Venice now exhibits cubism, abstractionism, surrealism and abstract expressionism masterpieces from the likes of Picasso, Braque, Leger, Dali, Kandinsky, Malevich, Chagall, Pollock, Ernst, Miro, Man Ray and others.

“People are copycats. They always look at who bought this or that artist, whose collection the particular artist is part of and so on. In America it’s really like that. One time a well-known art collector bought a painting of one of my young artists at the International Contemporary Art Fair in Madrid (ARCO). After that, people would come to me and ask who the buyer was and whether there was any painting left from that particular artist. Being an art collector is all about status and one needs to work in order to achieve that status. There are a few knowledgeable art collectors in Georgia right now and, to tell you the truth, I don’t even know who the Georgian “financially secured public” may look up to,” explains curator Irina Popiashvili.

Irina lived in New York for more than 20 years. She has an interesting creative experience under her belt. She’s quite familiar with the US art market, with its trends and rules. In 2005, she opened the Newman Popiashvili Gallery in Chelsea together with her partner Marisa Newman; it hosted a lot of wellknown artists. After that, Irina cooperated with various leading galleries. Several years ago, she founded Popiashvili Gvaberidze Window at the Vitrina (showcase) Gallery in Tbilisi, together with Tamuna Gvaberidze, and in 2017, together with contemporary art consultant Lika Chkuaseli, she created a Tbilisi Kunsthalle mobile exhibition area. She does not differentiate between commerce and creative liberty and says both of them are equally important. She believes that an artist’s expectation of being able to exist only through selling paintings is a concept from the previous century and that modern artists should be able to coexist with business. However, this does not mean following the directives of and accepting the orders from gallery owners.

“You can only do it with an artisan,”

Irina says.

As for artists, she’s interested to know what they create and what they can offer her. She’s in constant search for young artists. Meanwhile, she’s collected quite a large collection. For her there are two reasons to buy a painting: either she just doesn’t want to let go of a good painting or she wants to support a young artist.

In fact, when I’m trying to discover new contemporary artists, I always go to Irina. For example, I discovered Giorgi Kochiashvili on Irina’s Instagram page. Giorgi Kochiashvili is a unique artist on the Georgian art market with his tropical motifs, harmonious combination of colors and his individual manner of storytelling. Of course when talking about this young artist and his works we again raise the familiar issue – sales. I wonder how the pricing of a young, yet unknown author takes place. I ask Irina about that and I remember that Kochiashvili’s works are worth between 6,000-10,000 GEL.

“For example, in New York the price for the work of a young modern artist is based on where they studied or who bought their pieces. Of course many other details need to be taken into account. For example, how long they worked on a particular painting, what materials were used and most importantly, what emotional connection an artist has with their work.”

ARTISTS, WHO IRINA POPIASHVILI RECOMMENDS:

GIORGI KOCHIASHVILI

(ART CONSULTANT IRINA POPIASHVILI) -

6 000-10 000 GEL

ANASTASIA AKHVLEDIANI800-2000 GEL

LEVAN CHELIDZE (LEADER WINDOW

PROJECT) 500-15 000 EUR

SALOME JOKHADZE (STUDENT) -

300-500 GEL

GIORGI GELADZE (STUDENT)                                         100-1,000 EUROS

Irina Popiashvili. Curator © Khatuna Khutsishvili

NATURALLY, THERE’S A LOT MORE TO DO WHEN YOU DEAL WITH A YOUNG ARTIST, BECAUSE YOUR MISSION IS TO INTRODUCE AN ABSOLUTELY UNKNOWN ARTIST TO THE MARKET RATHER THAN LADO GUDIASHVILI FOR EXAMPLE. ACCORDING TO IRINA, THE MOST PROBLEMATIC PART OF ARTIST-GALLERY OWNERDEALER-BUYER IS THE BUYER, BECAUSE THE LATTER CANNOT UNDERSTAND WHAT THE GALLERY OWNER’S ROLE IS IN ALL THIS.

In other words anyone can set the price whichever way they like? I asked. “No, of course not. If any of my students decides to set the price of their painting at $4,500 I would tell them it’s unrealistic. However, I keep telling and teaching them that they should never say “I don’t know”. You should always know how much your piece is worth.”

Naturally, there’s a lot more to do when you deal with a young artist, because your mission is to introduce an absolutely unknown artist to the market rather than Lado Gudiashvili for example. According to Irina, the most problematic part of the artist-gallery owner-dealer-buyer relationship is the buyer, because the latter cannot understand what the gallery owner’s role is in all this.

“It’s a well-known fact that American artist David Salle had to wait for 4 years to meet New-York based art dealer Leo Castelli. Over there people realize how important it is to work with a prestigious gallery. In Georgia, since our recommendations don’t come in the form of gold bullions, people just don’t understand what we are needed for. Many people don’t like it when Giorgi tells them to come to me if they want to buy his paintings. Some of them never come here, they take offense.”

Irina always wondered how one artist could cooperate with several different gallery owners, which is the reality of the contemporary Georgian art market.

“I believe the 1990s art market was damaged and spoiled by that chaos and absence of exclusivity. That’s why many interesting artists of that period are sold at substantially lower rates now,” she explains.

Irina is the Dean of the Visual Arts and Design School at Free University. That faculty is quite popular among the young people interested in contemporary art. One of the reasons for this popularity is the fact that along with art, its dean is trying to teach future artists, gallery owners and art dealers how to do business. She believes that one of the problems of the Georgian art market has always been the reluctance to talk about haggling over money, which this generation should overcome. Therefore, this year she tasked the 4th year students she teaches about the institutions and infrastructure of contemporary art to organize a noncharity auction. The students had to select the paintings, set their prices, find a venue, prepare/print a special catalogue and mobilize people on their own.

More than 10,000 GEL has been generated through the auction. Irina often tells her students that an artist should know what they are painting, who they show it to and how they are going to sell it.

We finish our meeting with the discussion about future artists. Irina says that young contemporary Georgian artists will not be able to gain experience and knowledge from the original source, since museums don’t display the works of the artists that belong to the previous generation. For example, Sergo Kobuladze is a distant artist that exists only in a virtual space for them just like Jeff Koons or George Condo. That’s why she calls the new generation the “zero generation”, which is starting to form its own visual language from scratch, from the internet rather than the local area. Because of that, their communication and thinking language is mostly being formed in social networks and subcultures. Meanwhile the rest of society has yet to catch up with all of that.

FOR

TRAVELERS IN TIME AND SPACE

Do you know where east and west converge? They converge at the start of Akhvlediani rise, in the old Sirajkhan building. This cultural heritage monument was built in 1872 on the left bank of the Mtkvari River, and the Vinotel House has been there since 2015. Travel through time and space begins as soon as you step foot inside the hotel: layers of old and new, European and oriental seamlessly merge with one another under a colorful, ornamental ceiling.

Upon entering, one would be forgiven if one asked: is this a hotel or a gallery? However, the tinkle of the bell at the reception desk will convince you that you came to the right place. In fact, this is the very bell that was used in the old Tbilisi hotel called London. Authenticity is all around: the unique painted ceiling, the old furniture, brick archway, mirror, rugs, photos and wine artifacts. The interior is so cozy and attractive that you may even forget why you came. Meanwhile the building is filled with the enticing aroma of natural wines.

The quality of Vinotel restaurant is confirmed by the victory at a recent international competition. Vinotel restaurant won the World Luxury Restaurant Award’s two nominations (Best Wine Restaurant and Best Traditional Restaurant in Europe) among more than 100 finalists representing 40 countries. Vinotel is the first Georgian brand to win San Moritz’s “Special Hotel” nomination in 2017; one year after its opening Vinotel received the highest score on booking.com (9.2) and in 2017, it was named the best hotel in TripAdvisor’s Travelers’ Choice nomination.

Vinotel has a collection of rare wines that were produced in small wine cellars; they go well with both Georgian and European dishes. Guests can pair them with a range of delicious entrées and appetizers. Try the Gebzhalia with hot cream sauce, the Svanetian chvishtari (cornbread made with cheese), the duck liver soufflé, the Italian millet, or order the fried cottage cheese to accompany the veal ribs in Saperavi. The Svanetian veal kubdari is also delicious, as well as the Kakhetian salmon baked in bamboo leaves and the Tushetian lamb rib served in mint and cottage cheese sauce.

You can visit the wine tasting hall and select wines for your meal while your food is being prepared. There is a house sommelier on hand to help you make your wine selection.

Vinotel is an ideal Tbilisi micro-model with its colors, style, forms and synthesis of cultures. Here the city history has its own color, flavor and aroma. Enjoy Tushetian thyme, mint or chamomile tea and share your opinions in our book of impressions, where you can read the entries made by celebrities like David Lynch or representatives of the New York Times and the White House.

Your Home in Georgia