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Elegance

is an attitude

Simon Baker

There are 300 days of sunshine and 850 km of beaches in Portugal. This country is the best choice for travelling at any time of year. This issue of Voyager by SOLO is dedicated to Portugal. When travelling to Portugal, take into account Aka Morchiladze’s advice and walk around the country by the ocean “without sunglasses”; discover the soul of the sea in a city by the river; listen to the story of Queen Ketevan’s martyrdom, as told by in the 1,080-tile azulejo in the Convento da Graca Church; learn how the Portuguese tourada is different from the Spanish corrida; see what is reflected in Jose Aviles’ mirror – Portugal’s youngest and most successful chef; learn why the legendary coach cursed “Benfica”; why the most famous Portuguese writer prohibited death; taste “manly wine that did not like to travel”; and listen to Fado – the form of song taken from the Portuguese word for sorrow, which locals believe is fundamental to understanding their country.

One of Europe’s oldest capitals is uniquely impressive. Modern architecture lives alongside moor-style criss-crossing streets and centuries-old structures.

Like the royal family, you can escape Lisbon’s hot summer to Sintra – the city lost in a mountain valley and covered with green forest. It breathes with a noble calmness. Or go west and visit the nearby Cascais and Estoril beaches where Europe’s best seashore resort was established 100 years ago.

If you’re looking for a beach vacation, go directly to the Algarve. Here you will find white sandy beaches from horizon to horizon, bays encompassed by golden rocks, and the eternally peaceful, warm and blue ocean. The 200 km coastline is the best place for any kind of water sport, surfing and windsurfing. The yearround green meadows make the Algarve a golfer’s paradise. Visit Benagil, believed to be the best beach on the planet. Here you’ll find a crystal clear, sandy beach, rock formations and caves; make sure to search for the “secret” beach by one of the arched rocks. You can only access it from the sea.

Start getting acquainted with Portugal through Porto, Lisbon’s ambitious rival, and the country’s marine and

wine-making capital, then travel to Braga to see the Bom Jesus cathedral that hangs in the sky.

If you like adventures, you can look for the Holy Grail in Tomar, just like the Knights Templar, or visit Alentejo, to see ancient cities like Evora and Elvas, which are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Travel from mainland Portugal to Madeira, known as the safest place on earth and a haven for tourists. Due to the ideal climate (the average temperature in winter is 18oC and in summer is 28-33oC), visitors flock here all year round. You will also enjoy Porto Santos – and island located 50 km away from Madeira. It is called the Golden Island for its golden sand.

Learn how a small county became continental Europe’s far post, and how the country’s inhabitants, sailors by birth, linked the Atlantic Ocean to Indian Ocean, Europe to Africa, India, China and Japan, and in fact created a new model of the world.

The Portuguese were the first to create the phenomenon of globalization. Many things that you find here, including its cuisine, are a result of cultural exchange and relations, made during the great era of European discoveries. Portuguese cuisine is like a mirror that on the one hand reflects the country’s individualism, and on the other hand its openness to the whole world. If you are a true fish lover, then Portugal is your target; 80 species of the best quality fish and seafood are ready for tasting.

You should know beforehand that right after you return from this magical country, you will be overcome by saudade. Saudade is a holy Portuguese sorrow but a good sorrow – getting pleasure from sadness, and the joy and longing of nostalgia. What is gone and is now remembered fondly. It is impossible to heal this sorrow. Saudade can’t be translated into any other language, but you can feel it. This is the sadness of longing for Portugal – the country that will turn into a great discovery and which you will not be able to forget.

Tea Skhirieli Editor-in-chief

Editor-in-Chief

Tea Skhirieli Designer

Nino Kavelashvili

Illustrations by Maia Sumabdze

Translation by Lika Barabadze

Turismo de Portugal

Authors:

Aka Morchiladze

Lasha Bughadze

Salome Dadunashvili

Nino Daraseli

Bidzina Baratashvili

Kakha Tolordava

Nikoloz Chkhaidze

Marina Kipshidze

Irina Bagauri

Ciuka Kipshidze

Project Manager / SOLO DIRECTOR

Nino Chikovani

Project Consultant

Nino Gegeshidze

SOLO Brand Manager

Keti Nikoleishvili

Zaza Chiladze

Mzia Chikhradze

Guranda Pachulia

Tea Gvasalia

Administrative Assitant

Giorgi Vasadze

Advertisement Manager

Nazi Goshadze

Publisher: LTD SOLO

Phone.: +995 32 2 44 44 00

ISSN: 2346-8130

Advertising: +995 599 330 364 / Published material owned by LTD SOLO. Written Consent of the Company necessary for use of any material published in this magazine.

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THE CITY OF MISCHIEVOUS WINDS

SALOME DADUNASHVILI

“Because I have been to Lisbon with my father”.

Pippi Longstocking

In 1755, something broke down in the depths of the Atlantic Ocean, under layers of the cold November water. It was as if the spring that held unseen clockwork, fell out and disintegrated. A devastating earthquake rapidly reached the shore.

The city was sleeping on that shore.

In several horrible minutes, the jewel of the Kingdom of Portugal was in ruins. Lisbon greeted the day of all saints in silence. The city was still covered in dust and fire when a wall of Tsunami crushed down upon it. The city that flourished beside the ocean was now being drowned, like a victim chained to the shore, to be consumed by a sea monster.

When the waters retreated, only the memories of this once beautiful city remained…and everything started anew.

There’s a commotion on the last station of the red tram. Everyone wants to ride the next one. No one wants to walk the inclining streets towards the top. These streets turn even the most comfortable footwear into iron shoes. The tram driver

checks people’s tickets; she has curly, golden hair, combed by the morning wind. She patiently endures this transparent comb – she knows that the wind is her friend. The wind is the oldest and the most honorary citizen of Lisbon.

Oh, the mischievous wind of Lisbon. The main hooligan, stylist and patriot of the city. It steals tourists’ hats, messes little boys’ unruly hair and waves pretty girls’ dresses. It then jumps up the streets – those streets, which the tourists, packed into the red trams like sardines, consume with their eyes.

The wind touches the dome of St. George’s Cathedral and scares away the pigeons. It then kicks the shining, azulejo-covered walls, then whistles and comes back down. It rushes by the fado taverns in Alfama, grabs a few musical notes, stirs the pleasant aroma of fried fish, and brushes past pedestrians.

Finally, it strolls down Commerce Square, flies over the shore and splashes seagulls with the salty water of Atlantic. It grabs the smell of salty water and iodine and envelops the proud statue of the Marques de Pombal on Freedom Avenue. The Marques is pleased with his work. Lisbon, rebuilt after the earthquake, became an entirely different

city. Criss-crossing medieval streets and dead ends were replaced with planned, free districts.

However, nothing can completely straighten Lisbon out. Sometimes one thinks that this city, defying all of the laws of physics, only consists of uphills, as if Lisbon reaches up – up and up, above and beyond, to touch the sky.

It’s no surprise that the wind loves this city.

After all, where can a wind live, if not in a city that hangs in the sky?

This is why the wind is Lisbon’s patriot. It brought smells of far-away lands and whispered magical words into sailors’ ears. It then waved their sails and just like a happy dolphin, accompanied the ships in search of eastern sweetness as far as the horizon.

This wind probably brought the keen king of Itaka to the shore after the war of Troy. In Lisbon, they love the legend that Odysseus founded the settlement where the city sprang.

Arabs were eventually replaced by Norwegian crusaders; moors by Christians. The wind stood unchanged. It carried the flavor of sugar cane and the sound of slaves moaning from the ships in the 16th century.

Peaceful people live in Lisbon because the wind is mischievous for them. They work, love and talk with lips that are sunburned and cracked from the wind; they talk as if they sing and they sing as if they moan. Fado can be appalling – like the howling of the wind on a moonless night – or beautiful like tender rustle of leaves.

This wind gushes in Lisbon today. Ever-present and all-knowing, and, most importantly, omnipotent like a magician. Neither kind, nor evil –a mischievous wind.

So, if you get lost in the tangle of Lisbon’s streets and don’t know where to go, just follow the wind.

ALFAMA

Alfama is one of the oldest districts of Lisbon, and is a delightful maze of narrow cobbled streets and ancient houses, which lead up the steep hill from the Tejo Estuary to the castle.

Originally, Alfama was situated outside of the city walls and was associated with poverty and squalor, where only the poor and disadvantaged resided. As Lisbon grew into an important port, the district retained its lowly status as the tough and deprived dis -

trict where sailors and dock workers lived. Today, Alfama has shrugged off its grim reputation, being transformed into a fashionable artisan district, while still retaining its character and dilapidated charm.

Alfama’s labyrinth of streets are best explored by simply getting lost in, as around every corner or steep climb is a delightful tiny plaza, unique shop, funky café or wonderful viewpoint.

GRAÇA

The Graça District is one of Lisbon’s oldest suburbs, located on top of her highest hill, a few blocks northeast of the Castelo de Sao Jorge and just up the hill from São Vincente de Fora Monastery. The neighbourhood, which centres around the Lago da Graça (the number 28 tram stops here), boasts some of the most spectacular views in Lisbon. The most famous viewpoint is the Miradouro de Santa Graca, which offers up the whole of central Lisbon and the castle to the north. An open-air cafe, open late into the night in Summer, is a favourite with young locals.

LAPA

West of the centre, the well-heeled district of Lapa contain some of the city’s finest mansions and embassies, many with dazzling views over the Tagus. This is a quieter, more residential side to Lisbon, yet you’re only a short tram or bus ride from the city centre one way and the historic sites of Belém the other. This is also where you’ll find the splendid Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, an art gallery featuring the likes of Hieronymus Bosch, Dürer, Rodin and Cranach.

shops and walking up to the observation deck. Miradouros is better during the day, while visiting the nightclubs and restaurants is better in the evening. There are so many gastronomic locations here that the Lisboans joke that wherever you look, there is a restaurant. Most of them are closed until the evening. The bars are usually small so people mingle in the narrow streets of Bairro Alto with their glasses in their hand.

BAIRRO ALTO

The Bairro Alto district is considered the most glamorous in Lisbon. You will find luxury shops, the most fashionable nightclubs and the best restaurants here. Despite the diverse choice, you should come to this district with a specific goal in mind – checking out the

ESTRELA

The heart of Estrela district is the eponymous basilica (Basilica da Estrela), surrounded by a beautiful garden. It was built on a mountain in 1790. It is highlighted by its large dome and baroque-style facade.

The Estrela locals are proud to have one of the oldest cafés in the city - Brasileira - where you can have delicious coffee and a snack.

CHIADO

Chiado will take you back to the beginning of the 20th century to the favorite quarters of Portuguese writers Fernando Pessoa and Eça de Queirós.

This elegant neighborhood located between Bairro Alto and Baixa Pombalina

PRINCIPE REAL

This district was named after Dom Pedro V, the son of Maria II. It is located in the northern part of Bairro Alto. This fashionable district has many of the best restaurants and concept stores.

The Principe Real district is in high demand as a living area and a shopping destination. This quiet area is known for its palaces, museums and parks, with a beautiful botanical garden too.

is filled with symbols. The literary guild’s intellectual club, Chiado, established in 1856, became the center of Portuguese romanticism.

Today this cosmopolitan, lively district is the city’s most important shopping area. Here you will also find the Sao Luis, San Carlos and Trinidad theaters.

BAIXA

Avenida da Liberdade – the Liberty Avenue – is a 1,100 m long, 90 m wide boulevard located in the center of Lisbon with wonderful greenery and pedestrian walkways.

It was created in 1879-1886 under the influence of the Parisian boulevards.

BELÉM

Belém is the district of Lisbon with the highest number of historical monuments per sq. km. This place served as the starting point for the journeys of Vasco de Gama and other navigators who sailed down the Tagus River to dis-

This Boulevard became an important stage in the city’s expansion and development northward.

Rich families settled here and began to build elite houses. In 20th-21st centuries, the Baixa district was expanded with high-end apartments, hotels, restaurants and stores. Today, Avenida da Liberdade, due to its boutiques and luxury brands, is

cover new lands. The very same district is home to the famous Belém Tower and the Jeronimos Monastery, which are UNESCO World Heritage sites. In Belém, you should also visit the Coach Museum, the Berardo Museum collection and the МААТ.

are surrounded by cafés and shops. The north side approaches an elegant facade of the National Theater. On the left stands the Rossio railway station - a remarkable 19th-century structure built in the Neo-Manueline style. From here, the trains depart to Sintra, while the escalators will take you to the upper part of the city.

In close proximity there is a third, smaller square, Praca da Figueira, with a monument of King John I on horseback.

ranked 35th in the ratings of the world's most luxurious streets.

From Commerce Square (Praca do Comercio), by the monument of the Portuguese King Joseph I and where once, on the coast of the Tagus river, the royal palace stood, we follow Rua Augusta down to the lower part of the city – Lisbon’s business quarter with offices, stores and restaurants.

Beyond the triumphal arch, one can see a “grid” of streets, crossing each other perpendicularly. Following the 1755 earthquake, Marques do Pombal completely rebuilt the center of Lisbon on the ruins of the old city, so most of the Baixa district buildings date back to the 18th century.

That period marked the emergence of seismically retrofitted buildings in city planning, and the introduction of many streets built around a central axis. The streets were named after various crafts and craftsmen of that time: cobblers, postmen, goldsmiths, etc.

SQUARES

There are several remarkable squares in Lisbon above the Tagus River: The first among them - Rossio - is covered with a patterned mosaic. The second - Dom Pedro IV square (Praca de Dom Pedro IV) - is decorated with a monument and fountains. In the past, bull fights and auto-da-fé took place here, but today they

The Foz Palace (18th century) and Avenida Palace Hotel facades face the Restaudores square (Praca dos Restaudores), which, thanks to a high obelisk, can be seen from all sides.

ALCÂNTARA / DOCAS

The Alcântara district, located near the 25th of April Bridge, is the mecca of Lisbon's night life. Former warehouses now host numerous

PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES

You should definitely visit this district because of its architecture and places for relaxation. Lisbon's most modern district located on the shore of the Tagus River was built as part of the Expo-98 universal exhibition at the end of the 20th century. There are several modern architectural masterpieces in Parque das Nações: the Oriente Station (Author: Santiago Calatrava), the Por-

night clubs. During the day, many restaurants and bars work in the same buildings offering cuisines from different countries. From these places, you can enjoy spectacular views of the Tagus River and its south coast, as well as the 25th April Bridge. Here you will also find the LX Factory - a former factory but now a center of nightlife. When you get tired of historical sightseeing in the city, take a walk in the Docas – it's a perfect place for relaxation and entertainment.

OCEANÁRIO DE LISBOA

The oceanarium comprises two buildings: one built in 1998, and the second connected to the first by a passage which was built in 2011. One million people visit this place every year. The total area of the oceanarium is about 20,000 sq. m. and the number of aquariums exceeds 30. Among them is one of gigantic proportions. It can hold 5 million liters of water. One can look into this aquarium at different levels. The oceanarium is home to more than 8,000 living organisms of 500 different species.

tuguese National Pavilion by Alvaro Siza, the St. Gabriel and St. Rafael twin towers, as well as the flagship tower of Vasco da Gama – the tallest building in the country.

There are several halls around the gigantic aquarium where different climatic conditions are imitated, be it the Indian tropics or the icy Antarctic, along with the animals that live in those respective conditions.

The Lisbon oceanarium is among the few aquariums in the world where you can encounter the ocean sunfish (lat. Mola mola). It lives in unique, specially designed conditions.

Open: in summer – 10:00 am - 8:00 pm (Entrance until 07:00 pm), in winter – 10:00 am - 7:00 pm (Last entry at 6:00 pm).

Ticket price: for 13-64 year old visitors - 16.20 €; 4-12 years and above 65 years old- 10.80 €; Family ticket (2 adults, 2 children)39 €; Admission is free for children up to three years old.

Esplanada D. Carlos I

CALÇADA PORTUGUESA

Portuguese mosaic is a special type of pavement that is widespread in Portuguese-speaking countries. You will hardly find a sidewalk in Lisbon that is not covered in such tiles. Tra-

QUIOSQUES

The kiosk is the main detail of the Lisbon Street landscape. The French Art Nouveau style kiosk made with curly metalwork first appeared in the 19th century in 1869 on Prachita Rossio.

You will notice the colored rooster figures everywhere in Portugal. In Portugal, the rooster is the symbol of justice. According to legend, a young Galician was taking a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela and had to spend a night in the city of Bercelos. His hostess tried to seduce him but in vain. The insulted woman put silverware into the young man’s bag and in the morning accused him of stealing it. The young man was sentenced to hanging.

He prayed to St Jacob for mercy and then told the judge that as soon as he is hanged, a fried rooster will crow at his dinner table. This is exactly what happened as soon as the noose was fastened on his neck. The judge rushed to the square – the young man survived and returned to Bercelos years later to erect a large statue of a rooster there.

ditionally, black and white basalt and limestone tiles were used for Portuguese mosaics, but you can also encounter red, brown, greyblue, and yellow tiles.

The most common are abstract paintings created with different colored tiles on sidewalks. There are genuine masterpiece among them. Be careful during the rain as you can easily slip on them.

Comment

The small kiosk sold tobacco, newspapers, lottery tickets and light drinks. This tradition continues to this day.

In the small booths of different colors and designs, you can purchase truly Portuguese products - lemonade, Ginjinha, Port wine, almonds and cod pastry. Currently, there are 70 kiosks in the city.

Never wear high-heeled shoes when walking in Lisbon. With its steep slopes and pavements, walking in such shoes in the city is impossible. Those who were not born in Lisbon risk hurting their ankles.

So-called platform shoes are the only types of high shoes that you will be able to walk in. And you should forget about stilettoes.

JACARANDA

The Jacaranda blossom from mid-May to midJune. Some trees blossom again during a warm autumn. Travelers plan their trips to Lisbon to witness this beautiful blossoming.

FESTAS DOS SANTOS POPULARES

In June, Portugal’s national saints are celebrated. The so-called Santos Populares is celebrated with festivals and colorful street marches (arraiis) which take place all over the country on the nights of the St. Anthony, St. John and St. Peter's holidays.

The most important holiday in Lisbon is Dia de Santo António (12-13 July night). These celebrations are carried out with unprecedented joy. The streets are decorated with floral arches, air balloons, and scented pots of manjerico (basil).

Public marches are held (marchas populares) with musical accompaniment; hundreds of people from all districts of the city gather at the main artery, Av. da Liberdade, although Alfama, Graça, Bica, Mouraria and Madragoa are no less crowded and joyful during these days.

Traditional cabbage soup (caldo verde) and grilled sardines are served in the medieval squares and streets; everybody sings and dances all night. The celebration is concluded by a procession starting from Alfama Santo António Church, located near Lisbon Cathedral (Sé).

SÉ DE LISBOA

King Afonso I commenced construction of the patriarchal cathedral after the liberation of Lisbon from the moors (1147). The Roman Catholic cathedral was later expanded and a Gothic yard and semi-circle gallery for the Royal Pantheon were built. It was later damaged by severe earthquakes. In the XVII century, clothing chambers were constructed in the Mannerist style. In the XVIII century, the Capella Santíssimo, a Baroque altar, a southern tower and two organs were added.

Open: every day: 9 am – 7 pm

IGREJA DE SÃO ROQUE

Lisbon’s Church of Saint Roch is one of the oldest Jesuit churches in the Portuguese-speaking world. The interior consists of eight chapels, an alter and a transept. The interior of the church with its simple façade is rich in gold-encrusted tiles and marble. The chapel ornaments are especially impressive.

John the Baptist's chapel, a Baroque masterpiece, was brought from Rome and assembled here. It is adorned with gold, silver, semi-precious stones and XVI-century decorative tiles. It is dedicated to St. Roch, the patron saint against the plague. The Museu de Arte Sacra, a sacred art museum, is located here. It houses a rich collection of religious objects and relics. Open: weekdays – 9:30 am – 5 pm; holidays - 9:30 am – 1pm; entrance for free.

The Museu de Arte Sacra ticket price: 1.5 €

Largo Trindade Coelho

CARMO CONVENT

SÃO JORGE CASTLE

Saint George’s fortress is located at the center of Lisbon on the mountain. Traces of Phoenicians, Greeks and Carthaginians date back to VI BC. Roman invaders erected the fortress to protect themselves against the Lusitanians. Swabians and Visigoths conquered it in the fifth century and the Muslims in the eighth. The fortress was conquered again by Afonso I in 1147 who named it St. George's fortress. In the XIII century, the royal residence was housed in the fortress; from the XVI century, it was used as a prison and later it became the headquarters for Casa Pia de Lisboa – an organization that promotes the rights and protection of children and youth. You can have a snack in the beautiful cafés by the fortress, sip some wine, watch some freely-strolling peacocks and enjoy the views over the city.

One of the fortress towers, which overlooks Lisbon, houses the camera obscura invented by Leonardo da Vinci. It is used to see optical images of objects. Thanks to its mirror system, a large hemisphere-shaped screen displays a 360-degree panorama of Lisbon in total darkness. Ticket price: 7.5 €

BASILICA DA ESTRELA

The Star Basilica is a beautiful cathedral in the late Baroque style with a triangular front, a clock placed between the two bell towers, monumental sculptures, and whitepink marble interior.

Entry to the viewing point costs 5 €.

Praça da Estrela

The ruins of the Order of the Carmelites convent are one of the most important sights in Lisbon. It was founded by the Portuguese knight and national hero Nuno Álvares Pereira in 1389; he later became a monk. After four centuries, an earthquake damaged the structure (1755). Restoration work began at the end of the XVIII century but was halted in 1834 due to the diminishing influence of religious orders. In the nineteenth century, under the influence of the aesthetic of that time, it was decided to leave the ruins untouched. Ticket price: 4 €

Largo do Carmo

AQUEDUTO DAS ÁGUAS LIVRES

The "Free Waters” aqueduct withstood Lisbon’s devastating earthquake. It was saved by its arched construction - the columns amortized it and reduced the power of the force. From 1732, for more than 200 years, an aqueduct was used to supply drinking water, but in 1967 it was shut down. Out of 35 arches, one is 65 meters long - the highest stone arch in the world.

Largo da Sé

R. de Santa Cruz do Castelo

Calçada da Quintinha 6

PRAÇA DO COMÉRCIO

One of the main attractions in Lisbon is the Praça do Comércio, which is now among Europe's largest squares (36 000 sq.m / 180x200 m). A statue of King Jose I (1775) stands at the center

ARCO DA RUA AUGUSTA

A figure representing "triumph" (glory) stands at the highest point of the arch. It awards "genius" and "dignity". Below them stand Viriathus, the leader of the Lusitanians, the mariner Vasco da Gama, the politician Pombal, and the army commander Pereira.

The top left shows symbols representing the Douro River and the Tagus River. You can reach the arch via an eleva-

of the square. The locals call it Terreiro do Paço (Palace Square). The place is most beautiful at sunset; a breathtaking view of the Tagus River and the 25 de Abril Bridge opens up from here.

tor or two helical staircases. Here you can enjoy an impressive view of Commerce Square and the Baixa district. Ticket price: 2.5 €

GARE DO ORIENTE

This structure, built by the Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, has giant wings and zigzagged roof. It is as if the lacework of pseudo-classical metal roofs and concrete roofing coils were crafted not by human beings but by nature.

CASA DOS BICOS

This asymmetric building is constructed like an Italian palazzo.

The designers tried to combine the most incompatible styles - Renaissance, Manuelino and Venetian Gothic. Brás de Albuquerque, the extravagant

In the outskirts of Lisbon, there is a huge statue of Christ in the town of Almada. It is just 10 meters shorter than the famous sculpture in Rio de Janeiro. In 1940, the Portuguese begged God to prevent World War II from spreading to their country. Portugal is among the small number of European countries where no war operations took place. It is said that women saved the money that built the statue as a sign of their gratitude for their sons, fathers and husbands not having died in the war. The sculpture is located near the Tagus coast and the 25 de Abril Bridge.

Alto do Pragal, Av. Cristo Rei

The capital of Portugal is connected with the rest of the country via two bridges. The lacework construction of the 25 de Abril Bridge is the safest structure in Lisbon - it can withstand all earthquakes.

The second bridge, which is considered to be the longest in Europe, bears the name of the legendary Mariner, Vasco da Gama. However, critics say that the bridge accounts for only about 829 m of the structures full length of 17 km – the rest is viaducts and underground roads.

son of the ex-king of the Portuguese part of India, demanded that the façade of the building be adorned with diamond-shaped décor. Since 2012, it has housed the foundation of the Nobel Prize recipient Jose Saramago.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 10.

LX FACTORY

This is Lisbon's creative center, ornamented with the industrial decor of the XIX century. The former factory in the Alcantara district has now become a hub for artists, designers and musicians. An open-air market is held on Sundays.

R. Rodrigues de Faria 103

CRISTO REI

Ponte 25 de Abril Ponte Vasco da Gama

ELEVADOR DE SANTA JUSTA

Created at the turn of the 20th century by Gustave Eiffel’s disciple, Raoul Mesnier du Ponsard, the neo-gothic style Santa Justa Elevator connects Baixa, the lower part of mountainous Lisbon, to the higher part, Carmo. The only vertical elevator in the city was officially opened by the King of Portugal Carlos I in 1901. In 1907, the steam engine was replaced with an electric motor. This elevator is a part of Lisbon’s cultural heritage – a monument of engineering innovation and an entertaining spectacle of scientific-technical progress –with art nouveau style booths, wooden panels, mirrors, win-

ELÉTRICO 28

This legendary wooden tram - with its yellow exterior, deafening sound and a route that follows the hills - is a true symbol of the city, a public transport and a tourist attraction. Be alert, high-class pick-pockets “work” on tram # 28.

Ticket price per person: 3 €

There are four so-called elevators in Lisbon. Three of them move on rails; one is a regular lift.

dows and 19 sitting and 10 standing places. The distance between the two stops of the elevator moving in rotation is 30 m; the construction is 45 m tall. The supporting poles are of molded iron with beautiful metal work. From its height, you can enjoy the view of futuristic facades and historic buildings. The elevator is overloaded at peak hours.

GLORIA FUNICULAR

The Gloria mountain funicular is one of the oldest in Europe. It appeared on the streets of Lisbon in 1885 and operated on a steam engine before switching to electric power in 1915.

Route: Praça RestauradoresS. Pedro de Alcântara

LAVRA FUNICULAR

BICA FUNICULAR

The Bica funicular was opened in 1892. Its route is considered to be the most beautiful. You can also follow it on foot and enjoy the small houses decorated with Azulejo tiles.

Initially, the funicular moved at the expense of a change in the weight balance, which was achieved by employing water reservoirs in turns. In 1896, it was equipped with a steam engine, and since 1914 has been powered by electric.

You can also get to the square through a spiral staircase.

Route: Largo do Carmo - Rua do Ouro works every day: March-October – 07:00 am –11:00 pm, November-February – 07:00 am - 9:00 pm

The observation deck is open all year round – 08:30 am8:30 pm.

A return ticket costs 5.15 €

TRAVEL FROM THE AIRPORT

As the airport is located in the city, and you can get to the center of Lisbon in 20-30 minutes, taxi fares are considerably lower than in other European capitals. Make sure to give the taxi driver the exact amount because they “never have any change”. From the airport to the city center: 7-14 km, 15.20 €

This is the oldest funicular in Lisbon; it opened in 1884. It passes along the narrow Calcada do Lavra street. There is a striking observation deck – Jardim do Torel – near the top-most stop.

Route : Largo da Anunciada _ Rua Câmara Pestana

A return funicular ticket price: 1.30 € with transport card - 3.70 € with a driver. Works on: Monday-Thursday: 07:15 am – 11:55 pm, Friday – 07:15 am – 12:25 am, Saturday – 08:45 am – 00:25 pm, Sunday and holidays09:15 am – 11:55 am

SUBWAY

The Red Line connects the airport and the center and takes about 30 minutes. At peak times, a train arrives every 5 minutes; at other times it’s every 12 minutes. In Lisbon, the metro operates from 06:30 am to 01:00 pm. With a Viva Viagem travel card, a 1.40 € ticket is valid for an hour.

A LISBOA CARD is a travel card that you can use in all types of public transport. Additionally, you will get a ticket discount in 26 museums and will be able to take the train to Sintra and Cascais for free. The 24-hour card costs 18.50 €; 48 hours is 31.50 €; and 72 hours is 39 €. For children under the age of 12, the tickets cost 11.50 €, 17.50 € and 20.50 € respectively.

Comment

The most affordable way to use transportation in Lisbon is to purchase a Viva Viagem travel card, which costs 0.50 € and is valid for one-year.

You can refill the card for a single trip or purchase a 24-hour unlimited travel pass on the subway and Carris networks for 6€.

Only one person can use the card at a time. You can buy them in ticket booths or using the automated machines.

Route : Rua S. Pedro de Alcântara _ Largo Calhariz

First day – Classic Lisbon

 Œ Avenida da Liberdade, which is famous for its high-class shops and hotels, is an excellent “introduction” to the city with its traditionally designed pavements.

 When you reach the Restauradores square, you will be able to get to the Rossio Railway Station in a few steps - from there you can travel to Sintra. Right by it is the eponymous square with a beautiful fountain.

 Follow the Rua Augusta pedestrian street to the river, pass under the triumphal arch (you can take an elevator to its top and enjoy spectacular views of the city), and you will find yourself on the largest square in Europe –Comercio.

 The Ribeira das Naus promenade and the “Urban beach” are the best places to relax by the water. Right here is the historic Ribeira market, currently known as Time Out Market, where all the best restaurants and cafes are concentrated and you can have a wonderful lunch.

 Jeronimos Monastery – with your energy restored, take a taxi to Belem. The main attraction in Belem is the monastery with its amazing stone decorations, where the tomb of Vasco da Gama is located.

 Coaches Museum’s – you should definitely see the fabulous coaches and contemporary art exhibits (Andy Warhol, Picasso, Dali, David Kakabadze) displayed at the Berardo Museum.

 Padrão dos Descobrimentos - Get to know the geography of the Portuguese colonies on an enormous mosaic map in front of the Monument of Discoveries and continue to the Belém Tower. This is the most legendary monument in Lisbon and you should definitely make time to study its architectural details.

 Take tram-15 to get back to the city center. Take the historic tram 28 from Commerce Square and go to Lisbon’s oldest district, Alfama

 You can enjoy beautiful views of the city from the Portas do Sol terrace and enjoy the best sunset of your life.

 The Lx Factory restaurants under the monumental 25th April bridge will be the best conclusion to your day.

TAXI

Taxis are beige colored in Portugal, but you can still encounter some older cars with a traditional black body and green roof.

The landing price in taxi is 3.25 € during the day and 3.90 € at night. You pay the price according to the meter. If you order a cab by phone, you will pay an additional 0.80 €.

Second day – Modern Lisbon

 Parque das Nações – Travel from the Rossio train station to the Oriente station, which was created by the renowned architect Santiago Calatrava. There are many architectural masterpieces in the Parque das Nações district, including the Portuguese Pavilion by Álvaro Siza and the Vasco da Gama Tower.

 Vasco da Gama mall in Lisbon is not only known for shopping but for its many cafes, which will offer you a good lunch.

 Oceanário de Lisboa is one of the world’s best oceanariums; it holds 5 million liters of water and houses more than 8,000 living organisms.

 Museu Calouste Gulbenkian - visiting this museum is worth it even to see the Rembrandt, Rubens and Monet works. The museum also preserves a distinctive and unique collection of jewels created by René Lalique

 Café A Brasileira - all travelers to Lisbon have a coffee in this café in the “company” of the poet Fernando Pessoa.

 If you continue on from the Camões square, you will reach the Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo. This is a beautiful, colorful street with a historical funicular travelling along it.

 Bairro do Avillez is a magical place located at 18 Nova da Trindade street on the road to São Roque Cathedral. Have a dinner here and continue on to the cathedral. In São Roque, you can see one of the most beautiful and precious chapels in the world.

 Follow the hill up from the São Pedro de Alcântara observation deck and you will find the most beautiful and romantic place in Lisbon. There are many cafes around the square and the best musicians always play here

 Continue on to Rua Dom Pedro V. This is a fashionable shopping street with galleries and cafés; from here, you will reach the Praça do Príncipe square, surrounded by colorful buildings. Visit the Embaixada concept store, if not for shopping then to view any of the exhibitions.

 You can conclude this impression-filled day in the charismatic Bar Pavilhão Chinês (R. Dom Pedro V 89).

TAX-FREE

You will be charged extra for luggage transportation in the trunk – the fee is 1.60 € regardless of the weight and quantity of luggage.

If you are going out of the city, the cost of a taxi will be calculated by kilometer, including the way to the city (regardless of whether you are returning or not); the client also covers the toll road fees.

In order to receive “Tax Free” returns, the cost of single purchases after subtracting the VAT should be no less than 49.88 €. Depending on the VAT rate, the minimum amount of the purchase should be:

61,35€ _ VAT 23% (in total, any goods);

57,86€ _ VAT 16% (On Madeira and the Azores Islands);

56,36€ – VAT 13% (wine);

52,87€ – VAT 6% (books, lenses).

Recommended routes search on the map

MUSEU NACIONAL DE ARTE ANTIGA

The Portuguese National Gallery has a rich collection of XIV-XX century European art. Bosch‘s “TEMPTATION OF ST. ANTHONY” is the museum’s star attraction. Here you can see Durer and Rafael's works too. The Japanese XVI-century screens on display are remarkable. This black-spotted, painted panels, are factually historical documents that accurately illustrate Portuguese trade relations with Japan.

Historians study the appearance of important historical characters, including Henry the Navigator, based on the XV-centu-

OPEN: FROM WEDNESDAY TO SUNDAY – 10 AM-6 PM. CLOSED ON MONDAYS AND TUESDAYS AT 2.

TICKET PRICE: 6 €; SIGNING FOR CHILDREN UNDER 12 IS FREE.

MUSEU NACIONAL DOS COCHES

The Museum of Royal Carriages has the most outstanding and rich collection of carriages in Europe. The exhibits are so much more than just means of movement. They are awe-inspiring, high-level sculptural compositions.

Initially, the museum was housed in the Belem palace horseback-riding building, but on its 110th anniversary it was moved to a new building, designed by the famous architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha.

Pay special attention to the carriage that was created for the Portuguese Embassy in France during the reign of King Louis XIV and the Portuguese ambassador’s carriage, made in 1716 for Pope Clement XI.

Open: every day at 10 am – 6 pm; closed Mondays.

Ticket price: 8 €

Praça Afonso De Albuquerque, Belem

ry Portuguese painter. The Chinese porcelain collection is also of great importance. Generally, the museum’s collection is a reflection of Portuguese trade relations.

The collection of jewelry and ecclesiastical items is unique. These items were made from the first gold obtained from Vasco da Gama’s travels.

Rua Das Janelas Verdes, Lapa

MUSEU DE MARINHA

Another must-see Belem museum is the museum of navigation. Of course, it is clear that the museum dedicated to navigation in Portugal is of utmost interest, since 90 percent of the country’s history is related to the distant seas. This space is perfect for kids that love pirate games. The 17,000 exhibits will fully familiarize you with the history of the Portuguese fleet, including in the XX century.

You will see the royal ships of the XVIII century in a separate hall. The oldest exhibit of the museum is the Archangel Rafael sculpture that adorned Vasco da Gama’s ship during his first trip to India. The ships (barges) recall famous historical figures: for example, German Kaiser Wilhelm II and Queen Elizabeth II of England.

The museum also houses replicas of XVI-century marine maps and globes, including a globe made in 1645 by Willem Jansz Blaeu – the most famous globe maker.

Open: from October to March – 10 am -5 pm, from April to September – 10 am – 6 pm. Closed on Mondays.

Ticket price: 6.50 €; Half off for Children ages 6-12.

Praça Do Império, Belem

MUSEU CALOUSTE GULBENKIAN

Calouste Gulbenkian was one of the world's first oil businessmen. The collector had many multilateral interests. During World War II, he left Paris with his colossal wealth and art collection and moved to Lisbon. As an expression of is gratitude to Portugal, he passed on his collection to the country after his death.

Today, the Gulbenkian Foundation conducts a number of important projects but the main one is the museum’s beautiful garden – itself a work of art.

This is one of the most versatile and valuable private collections that visitors can access. It includes exhibits from XVI-century paintings to the decorative art of the XVIII-XIX centuries. It houses the best ceramic products of the Ottoman and Persian empires and textiles, unique carpets and Chinese porcelain, Egyptian artifacts and gold coins dating back to Alexander the Great. The Gulbenkian museum has everything that has ever been valued by humankind. The Rembrandt, Rubens and Monnet masterpieces alone are reasons enough for a visit.

One of the museum's rooms keeps a distinctive and unique collection of jewelry created by René Lalique. Gulbenkian’s contemporary René Lalique was the founder of the epony-

mous French glass manufacturing company. The Art-Nouveau wave opened a new opportunity for Lalique: a new era in the design of jewelry through glass, plastic materials, and Lalique’s talent. Gulbenkian liked his works from the beginning and his collection includes 172 jewelry items created by Lalique. Some were worn by well-known women like Sarah Bernhard. Open: every day at 10 am – 5 pm; closed Tuesdays.

Ticket price: 10 €

Av. De Berna 45a, 1067-001 Lisboa

MUSEU COLEÇÃO BERARDO

The Museum of Modern Art was opened in Belem in 2007. The exquisite collection is located in a building harmoniously integrated with the maritime city’s architectural design. Works by Warhol, Magritte, Picasso, Miro, Bacon, and Pollock provide an overview of XX-century art.

The works belongs to Portuguese magnate Joe Berardo who long wanted to find a suitable space for his rich collection. Despite great interest from Paris and Miami, the Portuguese

government has done everything it can to keep the collection in the country.

Georgian visitors will enjoy a pleasant surprise at the beginning of the exposition - Davit Kakabadze's work. Besides Kakabadze, among the exhibits you will see Basquiat’s "PATER", Francis Bacon’s “OEDIPUS AND THE SPHINX AFTER INGRES", Balthus’ "PORTRAIT DE FEMME EN ROBE BLEUE" and Marc Chagall’s “LA FTETE DU MARIAGE". Ticket price: 5 €

Praça Do Império, Belem

MUSEU NACIONAL DO AZULEJO

A trip to Azulejo, the Portuguese tile museum, is worthwhile. The museum is unique in Europe and holds the richest collection of authentic tiles. The oldest exhibits date back to the XV century. Here you can also learn how Azulejos are created. The museum is located in the Madre DE DEUS CONVENT Monastery. The monastery was damaged as a result of an earthquake but after restoration work became one of the most beautiful and richly-decorated buildings in the city. The St. Anthony chapel is very impressive. The museum's special pride is a 23 meter-long mural made of 1,300 white and blue tiles, created in 1738. It depicts Lisbon.

Open: Wednesday to Sunday – 10 am- 6 pm, Tuesdays – 2 pm – 6 pm. Closed Mondays.Bilth Price: 5 €

CASA-MUSEU MEDEIROS E ALMEIDA

Another distinctive museum in Lisbon is the collection of XVIIXX century art located in the residence of Antonio Medeira e Almeida. The exhibition of 25 paintings, furniture and dishes are impressive. Here you can see the works of George Romney and Thomas Gainsborough, a wooden rose clock created by the most famous furniture manufacturers of the XIX century and a Louis XIV-style cabinet. The silver room features a dinner set owned by Napoleon Bonaparte, while the porcelain room displays dining sets from the Han dynasty.

Open: Monday to Friday – 1 pm -5: 30 pm, Saturdays – 10 am – 5:30 pm. Closed Sundays. Ticket price: 7.30 €

Rua Rosa Araújo 41

MUSEU DO ORIENTE

The Oriental Art Museum is located in the former warehouse. Here are the most important exhibits that illustrate the Portugueses’ influence in Asia. It houses Chinese, Japanese and Indonesian ceramics, paintings, textiles and decorative art works; maps that portray Portugal’s colonial past and the Catholic influence that the Portuguese brought to Asia. The collection belongs to the Eastern Foundation and includes art works from the XVI century onwards.

Open: 10 am – 6 pm, Friday – 10 am –10 pm. Closed Mondays.

MUDE

This design and fashion museum's name means "change" in Portuguese. It is a symbolic word for fashion and design and a work plan for the Museum of Design. The largest exhibition consists of the Portuguese businessman's collection. There are 230 designer works, including Dior’s legendary New Look works and dresses by Vivienne Westwood, JeanPaul Gautier and Yves Saint Laurent. The design department is decorated with works by Philippe Starck, Piero Fornasetti and Le Corbusier. The collection of 1930s glass and jewelry items is especially interesting.

Open: 10 am – 8 pm, Friday and Saturday at 10 am – 1 pm. Closed Mondays.

Rua Augusta 24

Rua Madre De Deus 4

Avenida Brasilia, Doca De Alcântara

VALVERDE

The classic and elegant Valverde Hotel is a real oasis in the city center. Due to careful planning, it feels like a private residence.

This new hotel is located on the rich historic Avenida da Liberdade. The building has been restored and arranged to create a homely environment. Each room has a different col-

or palette with rich carpets, while the interior is furnished with comfortable, modern furniture, art and antiques. The hotel has a beautiful garden where guests can enjoy drinks from the bar or afternoon tea.

The Sítio bar and restaurant provides a cozy atmosphere where guests can enjoy snacks or dinner at any time of day.

In addition to the usual classic dishes, the menu features the chef’s gastronomic offer of the day.

Like the hotel's aesthetics, the restaurant has both vintage and modern furniture combined with XVIII-century engravings and eclectic lighting.

You can enjoy a wonderful lunch or dinner, or relax by the pool in a garden decorated with colorful furniture. Pateo’s musical events make it a popular attraction for Lisbon's creative elite.

Rooms: starting at 210 € Avenida da Liberdade 164

PESTANA PALACE

The Pestana Palace Lisboa is located in a XIX-century restored palace. It is one of the best hotels in the world, known for its extraordinary service. It is close to the city's main attractions such as the Tower of Belém, the Belém Cultural

Center and Jerónimos Monastery. With two indoor and outdoor swimming pools and its spa, garden, restaurants and impressive views, Pestna is unique.

The hotel's restaurant Valle Flôr is one of the best in Lisbon. It is located in the former palace ballroom. The oriental Casa do Lago garden opens up in the summer months and offers a seasonal menu.

Bar Allegro is the perfect place for tasting cocktails and other drinks. Do not forget about the spa, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, Turkish bath and various types of body care available.

Rooms: starting at 170 € Rua Jau 54

Portugal employs the following hotel classification: Hotels (hotéis) are divided into 5 categories (one to 5 stars) according to their location, comfort and services.

Apartment hotels (hotéis apartamentos) are rated from 2 to 5 stars and an ideal option for those who want to pursue a certain independence but do not want to decline the entire range of hotel services.

Estalagem – these are very cozy 4- or 5-star hotels with local characteristics.

Pousadas - These hotels are located in buildings with cultural and historic value or especially picturesque views. There are four types of pousadas: "historical", "historical design", "nature" and "charm".

TIVOLI AVENIDA LIBERDADE

Tivoli Avenida Liberdade Lisboa is on the list of the best five-star hotels in the center of Lisbon.

Celebrities, politicians and royalty stay there.

The hotel has high-end comfortable rooms and suites with wonderful views of Lisbon.

Guests can enjoy many benefits, such as the best contemporary Portuguese cuisine from the restaurant Terraço on the rooftop (with Michelin Star recipi-

ent Chef Rui Paula), as well as the hotel’s spa, exercise hall, swimming pool and other facilities.

The spa offers individual therapies and a variety of relaxation procedures.

Cervejaria Liberdade's menu features delicious sea food dishes, traditional rice dishes and tasty meats, and a variety of sushi and sashimi. Here you can taste miniature lobsters, oysters and Mirandesa steak.

Wine tasting - Tivoli introduces the history of Portuguese wine. Participants can try five different types of wine and some starters prepared by the chef.

Sky bar – This summer bar on the rooftop of the building with its panoramic view, wonderful cocktails, mojitos, and live DJ is the best way to relax. The view across the Lisbon Hills and the Tagus River opens up from the Sky Bar. Unlike other clubs, Sky Bar and its cocktails symbolize a new style of relaxation. Order a Champagne Cooler, a brandy with triple liqueur, champagne and mint, and feast your eyes on the pleasant views from the rooftop.

Rooms: starting at 220 € Avenida da Liberdade 185

MEMMO PRÍNCIPE REAL

This secret hotel is located between a narrow street and a small tunnel. It provides panoramic views. The 41-

room, five-star boutique hotel is located in a historic location; the royal family lived here once and the aristocratic elements of the building remain intact.

Both modern and classic styles are mixed while the excellent service and authenticity is the Príncipe Real's motto.

The hotel is located in a quiet district, surrounded with gardens, squares and colorful buildings.

Café Príncipe Real is located in the

heart of the hotel. The cafe, bar and restaurant with its pool and city views offer exclusive cuisine and signature cocktails.

Rooms: starting at 110 € Rua D. Pedro V 56 J

BAIXA HOUSE

If you want to live like a local in a noisy area of Lisbon, stay in this beautiful hotel in the historic Baixa. This is a combination of fashionable apartments with boutique touches located

in the center of the city. Thirteen cozy, well-furnished apartments are housed in the restored old XVIII-century building; most of the original interiors are still intact. The apartments have fully equipped private kitchens. You will find

yogurt, orange juice, ham and cheese in the refrigerator; freshly-baked pastries are served in the afternoon.

Rooms: starting at 115 € Rua dos Fanqueiros 81

THERE ARE SPECIAL TOURIST FEES IN PORTUGAL - EVERY VISITOR OLDER THAN 13 YEARS MUST PAY A HOSPITALITY FEE FOR EACH NIGHT SPENT IN A HOTEL, PRIVATE HOUSE OR OTHER LICENSED TOURIST APARTMENT; THE HOSPITALITY FEE IS 2€ IN PORTO AND 1€ IN LISBON.

LOCO

Contemporary Cuisine

This is a slightly unusual restaurant where the kitchen is bigger than the dining room. It features only two menus: Loco - with at least 18 items, and Descobrir – an introduction to Alexandre Silva's cooking. This chef is an author of the restaurant concept. As soon as he opened the restaurant, he received a Michelin star.

Lunch for 2 with a glass of wine starts at 130 €. Open: Tuesday-Saturday –7pm -11pm.

Rua dos Navegantes 53B

ELEVEN Seafood

If you love seafood, then this minimalistic restaurant with its six-dish lobster menu is ideal for you.

The lobster ceviche and seared lobster with celery, coral cumin and fermented daikon are exceptionally delicious. The restaurant's fish dishes harmoniously combine Portuguese culinary tradition and Asian flavors - lobster with beets, cocoa and maracuia, sopa da pedra (stone soup) with lobster and spinach, mollusks, caviar and wide variety of cheese.

A La Carte Menu for 2 persons - 150€, glasses of wine – starting at 9€.

Open: Monday-Saturday – 12:30pm3pm. 7:30pm – 11pm. Closed on Sundays.

Rodrigues 1070

PALÁCIO CHIADO

Seafood / Sushi

Take a trip to Palácio Chiado if only for its unique building. The building houses eight restaurants and bars on two floors. The first-floor bar offers great steaks and salads. The upper-floor bar has champagne and seafood delicacies. There is also a sushi restaurant where you can enjoy the best sushi in Lisbon.

Lunch for 2 with a glass of wine starts at 130 €.

Open: every day – 12pm – 12am; open till 2am on Fridays.

Rua do Alecrim 70

DE CASTRO

Modern Portuguese Cuisine

The reputation of the restaurant is determined by Chef Miguel Castro e Silva. He personally chooses the ingredients, including the wine and cheese.

He is the creator of the famous restaurant Praca das Flores and is known for his thorough knowledge of Portuguese gastronomy and the revival of traditional cuisine. Try xerém (corn porridge), duck liver with garlic jam and maronesa - lamb with rice and mushrooms. The outdoor space is especially pleasant on hot days.

Dinner for 2 with a glass of wine starts at 100€.

Open: Tuesday-Saturday – 12:30pm -11pm; Sunday – 12:30pm -5pm.

Praça das Flores 46

Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa opened Alma as a sign of his return to haute cuisine. He earned a Michelin star in the very first year. According to the chef, he and his team disregarded some basic rules of hospitality: for example, the tables are not covered with white linen tablecloths.

The interior is modern and minimalist, devoid of anything that draws attention away from tasting the dishes.

A La Carte Menu for 2 starts at 100€, glasses of wine start at 7€.

Open: Tuesday-Sunday – 12:30pm -3:30pm. 7pm – 11pm.

Rua Anchieta, 15

100 MANEIRAS

Gastronomic Laboratory

This place is famous for the concept of "cod fish on a clothes line”crunchy, dried cod served on an elegant clothes line. This is the gastronomic laboratory of Ljubomir Stanisic, Michelin star winner. The nine-part menu is a love letter to seafood, full of unique interpretations of wonderful dishes.

Lunch/dinner for 2 with a glass of wine - 70-110€.

Open: everyday 7pm – 2am.

Rua do Teixeira 35

ALMA Fish

Rua Marquês de Fronteira, Jardim Amália

PEIXOLA

Fish Restaurant

Only fish dishes are served in Peixola. This small restaurant offers a pleasant gastronomic experience. The dining space is arranged in a long bar-type hall. It offers raw and cooked delicacies, including ceviches and tacos inspired by Central American cuisine as well as wasabi salmon.

Lunch/dinner for 2 with a glass of wine60€;

Open: Sunday-Thursday - 6pm – 12am.

Friday-Saturday – 6pm – 2am.

Rua do Alecrim 35

CERVEJARIA MEANS A BREWERY, BUT THE TERM OFTEN INDICATES PLACES WITH INFORMAL DINING SPACES, FRESH SEAFOOD, SIMPLE TRADITIONAL DISHES AND COLD BEER.

CERVEJARIA TRINDADE

Historical Brewery

This is one of the most beautiful restaurants in Lisbon. The original 1800s walls are a reminder of its monastic past. Because of the interior and traditional Portuguese cuisine, the restaurant is always full of locals or visitors. It has been the leading beer house in Lisbon since 1836 and is still popular for its steaks and seafood.

Lunch for 2 with a glass of wine starts at 60€.

Open: Sunday-Thursday – 12pm – 12am; Friday-Saturday - 12pm – 1am

R. Nova da Trindade 20 C

RESTAURANTE DOCA PEIXE

Fish Dishes

CASA DO PEIXE Fish

This modest restaurant, located in the Saldanha Market, has a centuries-old history of preparing the best sardines. Casa do Peixe has the best coal grill and is always full of locals who want to taste juicy sardines.

Lunch for 2 with a glass of wine starts at 50 €.

Open: Monday-Saturday – 12pm- 4pm R. Eng. Vieira da Silva 2A

FLORESTA DAS ESCADINHAS

Sardines

Fl oresta Das Escadinhas is located a few minutes from the beach, offering exceptionally delicious sardines. The grilled fish is delicious with potato, cucumbers and bread. This small and cozy restaurant is located on a narrow street. If you can find it, you will be rewarded with some of the best sardine dishes in the city.

In this restaurant, you pick the fish that you would like to eat.

It is then immediately placed on the grill or in the oven. Then you can order something from the diverse starter menu. The restaurant directly overlooks the beach and the 25 de Abril bridge.

Lunch for 2 with a glass of wine starts at 50€. Open: every day – 12:30pm -3:00pm; 7:00pm – 12am.

Doca Santo Amaro, Armazém 14

CERVEJARIA RAMIRO

Seafood

The legendary Cervejaria Ramiro has been spoiling diners with the best seafood since the 1950s. High-quality ingredients determine the quality of the dishes. Fresh oysters and shrimp, mollusks with butter sauce - ideal food with an ice-cold beer.

Cervejaria Ramiro is one of the most popular seafood restaurants in Lisbon and attracts a lot of people due to its excellent quality and authenticity.

Lunch for 2 with a glass of wine starts at 60€.

Open: Tuesday-Sunday – 12pm –12:30am.

Av. Almirante Reis 1

CERVICHERIA

Fish, Seafood

This small restaurant is one of the most popular places in Lisbon. Chef Kiko Martins has other famous restaurants as well. The menu offers the Peruvian cocktail Pisco Sour, raw-cooked fish, fresh salads and a wonderful dish comprising grilled octopus with sweet potato. The only drawback of the restaurant is its popularity - you cannot reserve a table, so you will have to queue (even the chef’s mother had to wait an hour for a table). You can use the waiting time to taste cocktails.

Lunch for 2 with a glass of wine starts at 40€.

Open: everyday – 12pm -12am

R. de Santa Justa 3

Lunch for 2 with a glass of wine starts at 130 €.

Open: everyday – 12am -12pm

Avenida Dom Perdo V 129

ZE DA MOURARIA

Traditional Portuguese Cuisine

This restaurant, located in Mouraria, Fado’s native district, is the perfect place for traditional Portuguese dishes. Like in classic Portuguese taverns, the walls are blue. The place mainly serves enormous portions of meat and fish dishes. The calamari with the most delicious sauce and fried sweet potato garnish is exceptional. The restaurant is always full of locals, but it's worth standing in line. Dishes for two 40€.

Open: Monday-Saturday – 12pm4pm

R. João do Outeiro 24

TABERNA DA RUA DAS FLORES

Traditional Cuisine with Modern Touches

A narrow, traditional hall with shelves full of local artisanal produce and tapas prepared according to the old recipes – this a contemporary continuation of history. The decor is similar to the old taverns, and the menu is written on big boards placed by the tables. Dishes of the day include traditional cuisine from all regions of Portugal but with a modern touch.

RESTAURANTE BASTARDO

Combination of Portuguese and Asian cuisine

RESTAURANTE AS SALGADEIRAS

Classic Portuguese Cuisine

This family-style restaurant serves up Portuguese dishes and the best wine. Restaurante As Salgadeiras is located in a former bakery. The renovated area includes old stone arches and large brick stoves that have been left untouched. The menu mainly consists of Alentejo and northern Portuguese cuisine. Several types of cod constitute the main dishes.

Lunch for 2 with a glass of wine starts at 70 €. Open: everyday – 7:30pm -12am.

R. das Salgadeiras 18

RESTAURANTS ARE USUALLY OPEN FROM 12PM TO 3PM DURING THE DAY AND FROM 7PM TO 10PM IN THE EVENING, THOUGH MANY OF THEM, ESPECIALLY IN BIG CITIES, STAY OPEN TILL LATE.

Try the mollusks, fresh tuna with sesame seeds, chocolate with cherry and liqueur dessert.

Lunch for 2 with a glass of wine starts at 70€; Open: Monday-Friday – 12pm-11.30pm; Saturday – 6pm –11.30pm

Rua das Flores 103

BICA DO SAPATO

Classic Portuguese Menu / Sushi Bar

This large terrace by the river is ideal for lunch. John Malkovich is a co-owner of the restaurant. It is a great place for those who like spotting celebrities.

The restaurant features a classic Portuguese menu and a sushi bar on the first floor. Lunch for 2 with a glass of wine starts at 80€.

Open: Monday – 5pm-12am; Tuesday-Saturday – 12pm-12am; Sunday – 12:30pm-4pm; Sushi Bar: Monday-Saturday – 07:30pm-12am.

Armazém B, Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, Cais da Pedra

LAURENTINA Tascas

Bacalhau Brás, made of fish, eggs, finely chopped fried potatoes, coriander and olives, is one of the most delicious of the 50 versions of bacalhau.

Lunch for 2 with a glass of wine starts at 50 €. Open: every day – 12pm -11pm.

Avenida Conde Valbom 71 A

The interior design consists of a unique mix of vintage chairs, carpets and posters. The menu is a pleasant combination of Portuguese and Asian cuisine: for example, bacalhau with eggplant and kombu (algae). The dishes are paired with wine that you can order by the glass.

Lunch for 2 with a glass of wine starts at 60€.

Open: every day – 12pm -11pm

Rua da Betesga 3

TASCAS ARE FAMILY RESTAURANTS THAT MAKE YOU FEEL LIKE YOU’RE ENJOYING GRANDMOTHER’S DISHES IN HER DINING ROOM. HERE, YOU WILL FIND AFFORDABLE PRICES, HOMEMADE FOOD AND FANTASTIC AROMAS.

GAMBRINUS

Traditional Portuguese

A true calm oasis lies behind the wooden door of this restaurant, which has been hosting guests since 1940. Make sure you get a crepe suzette, which will be flamed up for you at the table. You will not regret 34 € you pay for it.

Lunch for 2 with a glass of wine starts at 80€. Open: every day – 12pm -1.30am.

Rua das Partas de Santo Antão 23

CONSERVEIRA DE LISBOA

An old wooden cupboard in a canned fish store contains cans with a vintage label – the more expensive varieties have a woman on them, relatively cheaper varieties a cat or a ship.

The cans’ labels in the Conservira de Lisboa replicate the images of historic tin cans. Preserved in oil or tomato sauce, the sardines, cod, tuna, mackerel, anchovies, octopus, and calamari are so tasty that if you buy 5-6 cans, at home you will regret that you did not get twice as much.

Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 34

SALA OGIVAL

In this wine tasting hall, you will discover the unique flavors of Portuguese wines. You can purchase an Enocard and try 3-6 wines from different regions.

Open: Monday-Saturday – 11am -7pm

GARRAFEIRA NACIONAL

Established in 1927, Garrafeira Nacional (the national cellar) is almost a hundred-year-old house that is a distinctive landmark for all oenophiles. This brand, spread across three branches in Lisbon (in Santa Justa, Conceição and Mercado da Ribeira), offers the largest variety of the best wines.

Here you can find all varieties of Portuguese wine as well as whiskey, brandy, gin, champagne and wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy. Open: every day - 10am -9pm

Rua da Conceição 20/26

QUEIJARIA

In Queijaria, you can taste 50 different kinds of cheese. The bar also serves smoked meat, wine and craft beer.

Open: Tuesday-Thursday - 1pm -10pm; Friday-Saturday - 1pm -12am; Sunday - 1pm - 8am.

Rua das Flores, 64

AN ESPRESSO COFFEE, ADORED BY THE PORTUGUESE (THEY LOVINGLY CALL IT "BICA") WILL COST YOU 60 TO 70 CENTS AT THE COUNTER OF A TRADITIONAL CAFE. COFFEE WITH MILK, KNOWN AS "GALAO", COSTS FROM 70 CENTS TO 1.20 EURO, WHILE A CUP OF TEA IS 1-1.50 EURO. A GLASS OF FRESH ORANGE JUICE COSTS ABOUT 2.50 EURO, WHILE BEER OR COLA COST 1-1.50 EURO. A HAM AND CHEESE SANDWICH WILL COST YOU FROM 1.50 TO 2.50 EURO, AND BREAD AND BUTTER IS 2 EURO AT MOST.

MANTEIGARIA SILVA

This shop is 100 years old. In one part of it, you will be offered dried cod (bacalhau), while in another you can buy cheese as well a special type of pork leg (presunto), which is similar to prosciutto and jamon. The local cheese is like a small bread roll, with a crust on the outside and a soft filling on the inside. The

goat and sheep cheeses are the most flavorful.

Apart from the historical store, located at Rua Dom Antão de Almada 1, you can buy Manteigaria Silva's products at the Ribeira Market (Av. 24 de Julho 49) and Bairro do Avillez (Nova da Trindade 18) branches.

LOJA DOS AÇORES

The Azores archipelago is a green paradise and home to unique delicacies. In this shop, you can buy more than 1,000 products from the nine-island archipelago, including Gorreana tea, liqueurs, pastry, cheese and sausages.

Rua da Madalena 115

Rua Viriato 14C

TIME OUT MARKET

24 restaurants and 8 bars are located at Mercado Da Ribeira – the largest and oldest market in Lisbon, covering 7,000 m2 One concept unites all of the best things that Lisbon has to offer.

MARISQUEIRA AZUL

The chefs are real experts and are guided by the best traditions of Portuguese cuisine. The two main things to try are fresh mollusks and ice-cold beer.

SEA ME

This place features high-quality fish and mollusk dishes and is one of Portugal's best gastronomic spaces, fusing Portuguese and Japanese cuisine, offering the finest nigiri sushi, perch with algae and cuttlefish.

OPEN: SUNDAY-WEDNESDAY - 10.00-00.00, THURSDAYSATURDAY - 10.00-02.00.

Mercado Da Ribeira, Avenida 24 De Julho

orful corner at Mercado Da Ribeira offering a variety of culinary inventions with Portuguese aromas.

HENRIQUE SÁ PESSOA

This is one of the most elite chefs. His dishes are created according to Portuguese traditions with international touches. They receive positive reviews even from the most pretentious critics.

O PREGO DA PEIXARIA

The position held by Pastel De Nata among Portuguese baked goods is similar to the position of Prego Da Peixaria in the sandwich world – it is a national treasure. Try a classic sandwich - steak with Bolo Do Caco bread from Madeira, or an alternative version with fish.

NÓS É MAIS BOLOS

The best cakes in the city are sold here. New versions of classic cakes or desserts based on traditional recipes are available and all of them are delicious. The ingredients and recipes are wonderful, featuring lots of chocolate, caramel, cream and berries, cheesecakes, Brazilian-style chocolate brigadeiros, lemon tarts, banana cakes and so on.

L 'ÉCLAIR

BALCÃO DA ESQUINA

Balcão Da Esquina is the ideal place to experience the concept of the legendary Chef Vitor Sobral. Enjoy traditional Portuguese appetizers with the main accent on seafood as well as salted cod dishes.

COZINHA DA FELICIDADE

The name of the restaurant means "happy cuisine", though it is named after Chef Susana Felicidade. Once a lawyer and now a chef, Felicidade also owns other restaurants and a col-

L'éclair was established when Mercado Da Ribeira was founded - in May 2014. Since then, it has become a place that you must visit for its authentic style, the ingenuity of the ingredients, and the chef’s craft. Make sure you try an éclair with salted caramel.

Avenida da Liberdade is Lisbon's most fashionable avenue. JNcQUOI is the most prestigious venue here, located across the three floors of the historic cinema, Tivoli. Inspired by Parisian attitudes, JNcQUOI introduces a new concept to Portugal that combines a restaurant, bar, products and clothing stores.

Paula Amorim, the eldest daughter of Americo Amorim, is the author of the concept. Americo Amorim was the richest entrepreneur in Portugal – his business group includes corks, energy, finance, forestry, real estate and luxury brands.

JNcQUOI:

FOOD, BEVERAGES, SHOPS

DELIBAR

A bar on the balcony offers a light breakfast. A wine boutique and gastronomic shop is located nearby featuring carefully selected, sophisticated Portuguese and European products. Here you can purchase all kinds of cheese and other delicacies. I recommend trying a lobster hot dog, Algarve oysters, perch, truffle ovos rotos and cod.

FASHION CLINIQUE SHOP

THE PHILOSOPHY OF JNCQUOI IS TO CREATE AN ENVIRONMENT IN WHICH FASHION IS COMBINED WITH GASTRONOMY IN THREE DIFFERENT BUT INTERCONNECTED SPACES.

RESTAURANT JNCQUOI

This environment is designed for a calm lunch to enjoy some beautiful food. The diverse menu features truffle cake, burata, Alaskan crab, goat ragout, fresh cod with beans and pepper and sea perch ceviche.

The menu here is the most extensive in the whole of Portugal - it consists of 500 dishes. The old frescoes and wonderful views of the restaurant create a cosmopolitan atmosphere reminiscent of the distant past. Bold, experimental dishes are skillfully prepared in an open kitchen.

Open: Restaurant: Monday-Sunday –12 pm -12 am

Delibar:

Sunday-Wednesday: 12 pm – 12 am; Thursday-Saturday12 pm – 2 am.

Fashion Store:

Monday-Saturday –10 am- 8 pm; Sunday –12pm -12 pm

Av. da Liberdade 182-184, 1250-146 Lisboa, Portugal

JNcQUOI's third floor houses the concept shop Fashion Clinic Men. Impressive portfolios of international luxury brands are presented: Balenciaga, Balmain, Christian Louboutin, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Givenchy, Gucci, Saint Laurent, Tom Ford and Valentino, as well as a collection of the Fashion Clinic's private labels. Men's clothing can be ordered for sewing as well.

A Ladurée counter (the legendary French confectionery), a magnificent bakery, wine tasting zones, an art corner and Assouline books on design are housed in separate sections.

CONFEITARIA DOS PASTÉIS DE BELÉM

Pastéis de Belém pastries are the biggest point of pride for this confectionery shop, which if not the oldest is definitely the most well-known in Lisbon. According to legend, the recipe was given to the original owner of the confectionery by monks from a nearby Hieronymite monastery. These small pastries with crème and layered dough are made all around Portugal, although it is believed that Pastéis de Belém withstands any competition.

These pastries costs little more than a euro, and the bakery makes more than 20,000 of them a day.

Rua Belém 84-92

CONFEITARIA NACIONAL

This confectionery which features a spiral staircase, wooden chairs and mirrors behind the counter, has been in business since 1829. Make sure to try Bolo Rei, a festive cake with candied fruit, which has been made here since the middle of the 19th century. Among the best things you can try here are a nutmeg or cinnamon cake, Aletria (an egg vermicelli pastry with lemon and cinnamon) and chocolate sausage with walnuts, Salame de Chocolate.

A BRASILEIRA

The Portuguese nostalgically reminisce about the time when Portugal was at the height of its colonial power, when caravels loaded with silk, spices or coffee sailed Lisbon from all around the world. Initilly locals did not like coffee, so a Brazilian Adriano Telles opened a shop - A Brasileira - and started to offer coffee. Soon all Lisboans were having a small cup of Brazilian coffee at this place.

CASA DOS OVOS MOLES

This is the place to try the famous and delicious Aveiro "sweet eggs" (ovos moles). The cafe offers the best Portuguese nunnery sweets, which have a five-century history. Here, you will find Celeste from Santarem, Dom Rodrigo from Algarve, Fidalgo from Evora, Pastel from Tentu Galia, the traditional sponge cake Pisto Pão de Ló from Ovar, and Abade de Priscos pudding from Braga.

Open: Tuesday-Friday - 11 am -7 pm; Saturday-Sunday – 10:30 am -7:30 pm

Calçada da Estrela, 142

A GINJINHA

Ginjinha Liqueur has been sold in this old bar off Praça de São Domingos since 1840. Francisco Espinheira, a Gallician immigrant whose portrait proudly overlooks the bar, advised local monks to mix Ginjinha (cherry) and Aguardente (a strong Portuguese brandy) and add sugar, water and cinnamon. Today, Ginjinha is served in chocolate baskets that are eaten with the liqueur. Open: 9 am -10 pm

Largo de São Domingos 8

Today, you can take a table in this historic cafe and sit by the statue of legendary writer Fernando Pessoa.

Price of a Cup of coffee: 2 €

Rua Garrett 120

PASTELARIA BENARD

Pastelaria was founded in 1868 and was the favorite gathering place for aristocrats in the 19th century. Today, you can have best croissant in Lisbon here.

CAFÉ NICOLA

This café, located in a beautiful Art Deco building, has been a gathering place for writers and politicians since 1794. This tradition continues to this day in the café acknowledged to be the best place for lunch in the city.

Praça Dom Pedro IV (Rossio) 24-25

Praça da Figueira 18B

Rua Garrett 104

SANTINI

Gelados Santini is the most famous Portuguese ice cream. Its owners, the Santini family, supplied ice cream to several European royal courts.

Gelados Santini's ice cream is made of natural ingredients.

R. do Carmo 9

AMORINO BAIXA

You can try the world famous Amorino ice cream in the Baixa district. Amorino Baixa offers an ideal combination of quality, taste and consistency. All of Amorino's ingredients are organic. Popular flavors of this ice cream range from various fruits to Ecuadorian chocolate

ARTISANI

and from Sicilian citrus to genuine Italian espresso. You can enjoy the best waffles, crepes and Italian coffee here as well.

R. Augusta 209

Ice cream lovers can watch the preparation process for themselves here, made from 100% local natural products. The enormous range of available flavors, crafted with lemon, basil, cinnamon and honey, is a great temptation for all ice cream lovers.

Av. Alvares Cabra 65B Lisbon

GELADOS CONCHANATA

This ice cream parlor, opened by the Tarlattini family in 1948, maintains its reputation to this day in Lisbon.

COPPENHAGEN COFFEE LAB Coffee

This coffee laboratory located near the Praça das Flores offers a diverse choice of coffees. The coffee beans used in preparation of the local beverages, are roasted and prepared by a company located in Copenhagen.

Open: Monday-Friday - 8am-6pm; Saturday-Sunday - 10am-6pm

Rua Nova da Piedade 10

In Honorato, you will be offered 14 types of burgers with French fries. Here, you will also find a choice of up to 50 craft beers.

Open: Sunday-Thursday - 12pm12 am; Friday-Saturday - 12pm2am.

TARTINE Lunch

Apart from a bakery, there is a restaurant here as well, where you can try tartine (fried beef tartine is es-

pecially tasty), salad and pasta. Tartine is the ideal choice for brunch. Open: every day – 10am-8pm

R. Serpa Pinto 15-A

Comment

• When greeting each other, the Portuguese kiss, even if they only met the person once before. Male friends greet each other with a warm hug. Male and female or two female friends kiss each other once on each cheek.

• Punctuality is not a common thing, simply because people are not the masters of time, and such an approach is more convenient for them.

• In Portuguese, the men say "obrigado" ("thank you"), or, literally, "I'm in debt" – the women say "obrigada".

The most popular are the banana, mango and pistachio ice creams.

• Never use mocking or irony while joking. The humor has its boundaries and it is not expressed through making fun of others or themselves here. The Portuguese do not use self-irony. Forget sarcasm and bitter wit.

HONORATO Lunch

Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro 12

Av. da Igreja 28A

LIBERDADE high-class shopping is located on one of the world's widest (20 meters wider than Paris ChampsElisées) and one of Europe's most expensive streets.

FASHION CLINIC WOMAN

The best buyers choose the latest collections by Gucci, Givenchy, Isabel Marant, Stella Mccartney, Balmain, Christian Louboutin, Aquazzura, Manolo Blahnik, and Jimmy Choo. Fashion Clinic offers shopping lovers French macarons in Ladurée – the legendary French confectionery franchise in Portugal. Open: MondaySaturday – 10 am – 7:30 pm.

Tivoli Forum (Avenida da Liberdade 180)

LOJA DAS MEIAS

This is one of Lisisson's most luxurious shopping spaces across two exclusive areas, which include the brands Dior and Celine. Loja das Meias's luxury multi-brand network is considered the best in Portugal. Open: Monday-Saturday –10:30 am – 7:30 pm

Avenida da Liberdade 254

ANDRÈ OPTICAS

This is a dream shop for glasses lovers. The leading branch in Liberdade even has a Zen garden to help you relax. Apart from the exclusive glasses on offer, you can design your own models.

STIVALI

This space carries the following brands: Valentino, Saint Laurent and Chloé. There are other brands in this store too, like Chanel, which have exclusive shoe, bag and accessories collections. Dolce & Gabanna, Moncler, Fendi, Brunello Cucinelli, and Elli Saab are present as well. There’s also a legendary Roger Vivier corner, who made his Portuguese debut in Stivali.

Open: Monday-Saturday – 10 am-7 pm

Avenida da Liberdade 38B

OTRO PERFUME CONCEPT

"To choose a perfume is an art" reads the legend on the wall of Otro Perfume Concept. Perfumes in this unique space are displayed as valuable items, like museum exhibits or rare jewelry. The Otro Perfume Concept is based on high-class fragrance markets. Here you can only find the best brands: Amuage, Clive Christian, Sospiro, Memo Paris, Nishane, etc. Open: Monday-Saturday – 10 am – 7:30 pm

Avenida da Liberdade 180D

TIVOLI FORUM

It's impossible to look away from the Gucci collection, and refrain from visiting other shops that are located here: Machado Joalheiros, Fashion Clinic, Otro, Philosophie and Adolfo Dominguez.

Restaurants are located on the lower floors - an ideal place for lunch or a snack while shopping.

Open: Monday-Saturday10 am – 7:30 pm

Avenida da Liberdade 136-A

PURIFICACÍON GARCÍA

This Spanish creator emphasizes novelty, cheerfulness and elegance, and uses modern textiles. His templates are geometric. The collection includes men’s and women’s wear and accessories.

Open: Monday-Saturday10 am – 7:30 pm

Open: every day - 10 am –7 pm. (stores); 10 am –9 pm. (restaurants)

Avenida da Liberdade 180

COS

This is the first store of Swedish brand COS in Portugal. The concept is – “style is more than fashion”. The brand offers high-quality men’s and women’s wear with a functional design and at affordable prices.

Open: Monday-Saturday10 am – 8 pm; Sunday –12 pm – 8 pm

Avenida da Liberdade 67C

Avenida da Liberdade 150-154

NUDE FASHION STORE

The elegant and minimalistic environment of the concept shop consists of gray and glossy cement walls. It features brands such as Mes Demoiselles, Norma Kamali, By Timo, Cecilia Prado and California Anine Bing.

Open: Monday-Saturday10 am – 7 pm

Travessa do Carmo 8

MA&CE

Martha and Cecile (Ma & Ce) are two friends who founded the following brands in Lisbon: Claris Virot, Robin's Jeans, Stefan Green, Leonie and D.A.T.E. Sneakers. Here you will find Christophe Sauvat, Twin-Set, Intropia and Reiko Jeans clothes and accessories.

Open: Monday-Friday – 10 am-7 pm; Saturday – 11 am7 pm

Rua Paiva da Andreade 1

LUVARIA ULISSES

LIVRARIA BERTRAND

Livraria Bertrand, founded in 1732, is one of the oldest functional bookstores in the world. The store has numerous rooms with books on different topics.

Open: Monday-Saturday –9 am-10 pm; Sunday –11 am-8 pm

Rua Garrett 73-75

ISABEL LOPES DA SILVA

Isabel Lopes, the shop owner, offers the best collection of antique jewelry to antiques lovers.

Rua da Escola Politécnica 67

21PR CONCEPT STORE

Príncipe Real is a lifestyle concept store. You will find a unique collection of fashionable items in 21PR, including jewelry, decorative items and fragrances, by brands and designers such as Fornasetti, MAD et LEN, L'Objet and Tom Dixon.

Open: Monday-Saturday –10:30 am-8 pm

Praça do Príncipe Real 21

Located in the center of Lisbon, Luvaria Ulisses is the smallest store in Europe. In this "storeroom", which is about the size of a book cabinet, you can buy or order perfect leather gloves. The service is individual, because at 2 sq.m, the shop can only host one client at a time. The technologies and services have not changed since 1925 when the store opened. A pair of gloves costs 40 €.

Rua do Carmo 87

EMBAIXADA

This gallery is located in the Neo-Mauritian building erected in the 1800s. Its halls host dozens of boutiques where tradition, creativity, innovative design and fashion are combined.

Embaixada mainly features Portuguese designers. The beautiful interior is inspired by Mauritian architecture and Art-Nouveau details.

There are exhibition galleries and several restaurants in the open air yard.

Praça do Príncipe Real 26

CASA PAU-BRASIL

This bright store introduces tropical coolness to the city. Casa PauBrasil is a platform for presenting famous Brazilian designers to the Portuguese and European markets.

As well as its 17 designers, the store also promotes cosmetics and gastronomic brands.

Open: 12 am-8 pm

SKINLIFE BY DENNIS & PATRICK

42

Cosmetic products and high-grade perfumes are selected with the utmost care here (including Frederic Malle, Eve Lom and Atelier Cologne). This area provides a refined environment, personalized consultations and spa procedures.

Open: Monday-Saturday - 10:30 am -7 pm

Rua Paiva de Andrade 4

FIGARO’S BARBER SHOP

Nostalgic barbershops are in fashion. That is exactly what Figaro's Barbershop is, where only men and dogs can get a cut. Hairstyles start from the 1920s and include the 1950s. They will shave your beard with a razor and remove the foam with a hot towel. Even David Beckham has visited Figaro's Barbershop.

Open: Monday-Saturday – 11 am – 8 pm

Rua do Alecrim 39; Rua da Madalena 63

Rua da Escola Politécnica

BOUTIQUE DOS RELÓGIOS PLUS AVENIDA

Breguet, Breitling, IWC, Chanel, Blancpain, Piaget, Bulgari, Jaquet Droz, Omega, Greubel Forsey, Longines, Richard Mille, Girard Perregaux, Hublot, Audemars, Piguet ... the list could go on forever.

Boutique dos Relógios Plus Avenida is a temple for watch lovers. The shop has a wine bar and a "Portuguese corner" – a hall decorated with azulejo. Open: every day – 10 am- 7 pm

Avenida da Liberdade 129

LEITÃO & IRMÃO

In 1887, Leitão & Irmão was awarded the honorary title of the Royal Crown Jeweler by King Louis I.

This workshop used to make jewelry for kings and queens, popes and emperors. Founded in 1822, this brand is almost as old as Cartier. It is an important brand in the Portuguese dining silver and jewelry world.

The collection presents individually designed engagement rings, jewelry, cutlery and dining sets.

Open: Monday-Friday10 am-8 pm; weekends10 am-7 pm

Largo do Chiado 16-17

EL CORTE INGLÉS

Burberry, Loewe, Ralph Lauren, Carolina Herrera, Longchamp, La Perla, Escada, Bulgari, Versace, Sergio Rossi and Coach are just some of the high-class brands presented here. El Corte Inglés's shopping space in Portugal is its only location outside Spain.

Open: Monday-Thursday - 10am-10pm; Friday-Saturday10am-11:30pm

Avenida António Augusto

KNOT

This Portuguese children's clothing brand is known for its classical style and high-quality materials, featuring harmonious combinations of refined details and colors. Knot items are for girls and boys under 10 years. The store also includes baby items, accessories, signature fragrances and shoes.

Open: every day - 10 am-11 pm

Centro Colombo (Avenida Lusíada); Amoreiras Shopping Centre (Avenida Eng. Duarte Pacheco)

PÓ DE TALCO

ELEMENTS

Items by the Portuguese brand Dos Santos emphasize innovation and creativity.

You can also buy jewelry by Antonio Bernardo, Niessing, Meister and Vanrycke.

Open: every day - 10 am-11 pm

Amoreiras Shopping Centre

MARIA AVILLEZ JEWELLERY

The jeweler Maria Avalilez’s works are based on her search for various materials, graphics and simple forms. Her workshop is open to the public and the designer herself personally receives orders. Open: T uesdayFriday – 12 pm -7 pm

Rua da Lapa 104B

If you are looking for clothing for a special day in your child's life, you will find unique clothes in this store. This 30-year-old Portuguese brand pays a great deal of attention to the quality of detail and texture of its products. Here you can also buy baby clothes, shorts, t-shirts, dresses and accessories. Open: Monday-Saturday - 10:30 am -7:30 pm

Rua da Escola Politécnica 82-A

Comment

SHOPS ARE OPEN ON WEEKDAYS FROM 9 OR 10 AM TO 7 PM. SOME SHOPS ARE CLOSED FOR A LUNCH BREAK FROM 1 PM TO 3 PM. IN THE PERIOD FROM JANUARY TO NOVEMBER, MOST SHOPS CLOSE AT 1 PM ON SATURDAYS, THOUGH THERE ARE ALWAYS SHOPS IN THE CITY CENTER THAT ARE OPEN IN THE AFTERNOON. BIG SHOPPING CENTERS ARE OPEN ALL YEAR AROUND FROM 10 AM TO 12 AM.

LUX FRAGIL

Doca do Jardim do Tabaco, Alfama

John Malkovich is one of the owners of this club. There are three dance floors: the modern club music area, the alternative and jazz area and a bar on the roof terrace. The extravagant interior includes crystal chandeliers, criss-crossed neon lights and an enormous dance area. Apart from the diverse selection of music, guests can enjoy numerous classic drinks and cocktails.

This is the most famous club in Lisbon since 1998 and located in an old warehouse at the docks, the world's most famous DJs play here. The door policy is very strict, and the entrance fee is €12-30.

Open: Thursday - Saturday – 11pm to 6am

BOSQ LX Factory , Alcântara

John Malkovich is one of the owners of this club. There are three dance floors: the modern club music area, the alternative and jazz area and a bar on the roof terrace. The extravagant interior includes crystal chandeliers, criss-crossed neon lights and an enormous dance area. Apart from the diverse selection of music, guests can enjoy numerous classic drinks and cocktails.

This is the most famous club in Lisbon since 1998 and located in an old warehouse at the docks, the world's most famous DJs play here. The door policy is very strict, and the entrance fee is €12-30.

Open: Thursday - Saturday – 11pm to 6am

Rua Rodrigues de Faria 103

INCOGNITO Bairro Alto

SILK C LUB Chiado

John Malkovich is one of the owners of this club. There are three dance floors: the modern club music area, the alternative and jazz area and a bar on the roof terrace. The extravagant interior includes crystal chandeliers, criss-crossed neon lights and an enormous dance area. Apart from the diverse selection of music, guests can enjoy numerous classic drinks and cocktails.

This is the most famous club in Lisbon since 1998 and located in an old warehouse at the docks, the world's most famous DJs play here. The door policy is very strict, and the entrance fee is €12-30.

Open: Thursday-Saturday – 11pm to 6am

Rua da Misericórdia 14

John Malkovich is one of the owners of this club. There are three dance floors: the modern club music area, the alternative and jazz area and a bar on the roof terrace. The extravagant interior includes crystal chandeliers, criss-crossed neon lights and an enormous dance area. Apart from the diverse selection of music, guests can enjoy numerous classic drinks and cocktails. This is the most famous club in Lisbon since 1998 and located in an old warehouse at the docks, the world's most famous DJs play here. The door policy is very strict, and the entrance fee is €12-30.

Open: Thursday - Saturday – 11pm to 6am

Rua dos Polais de São Bento 37

DOCK’S CLUB Alcântara

John Malkovich is one of the owners of this club. There are three dance floors: the modern club music area, the alternative and jazz area and a bar on the roof terrace. The extravagant interior includes crystal chandeliers, criss-crossed neon lights and an enormous dance area. Apart from the diverse selection of music, guests can enjoy numerous classic drinks and cocktails.

This is the most famous club in Lisbon since 1998 and located in an old warehouse at the docks, the world's most famous DJs play here. The door policy is very strict, and the entrance fee is €12-30.

Open: Thursday - Saturday – 11pm to 6am

Rua da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa 226

UTOPIA Monte Estoril

John Malkovich is one of the owners of this club. There are three dance floors: the modern club music area, the alternative and jazz area and a bar on the roof terrace. The extravagant interior includes crystal chandeliers, criss-crossed neon lights and an enormous dance area.

Apart from the diverse selection of music, guests can enjoy numerous classic drinks and cocktails.

This is the most famous club in Lisbon since 1998 and located in an old warehouse at the docks, the world's most famous DJs play here. The door policy is very strict, and the entrance fee is €12-30.

Open: Thursday - Saturday – 11pm to 6am

Avenida de Sabóia 486

Av. Infante Dom Henrique

PENSÃO AMOR

Bairro Alto, Bica & Cais do Sodre

Since opening, the eclectic Pensão Amor ("Boarding House of Love") has served as a gathering place for artists and intellectuals to drink, talk and share ideas. Entering the bar, you find yourself in a colorful world with a mysterious red glow and the best cocktails. The walls are covered in erotic paintings, mirrors and posters of burlesque dancers.

The cozy lighting, created in honor of the building’s history, draws steam-like stripes. Creative cocktails, craft beer and wine will make an unforgettable impression. Open: every day – 2pm -3am.

19

CINCO LOUNGE

Práncipe Real

The chef of this cocktail bar has received a Michelin Star. Apart from the delicious classic cocktails, you can also try impressive inventions that contain only premium alcoholic beverages and fresh fruit.

This is a great place to relax, offering up to 100 cocktails. It is the home of mixologist Jose Maria Robertson, last year’s bartender of the year.

Open: 9am - 2am

Rua Ruben A. Leitão 17-A

LER DEVAGAR

LX Factory , Alcântara

This astonishing bookstore and bar is one of the most interesting destinations in the LX Factory creative space, located in a former factory in the Alcântara district, under the Ponte 25 de Abril Bridge. Amid two enormous floors full of old books, you can sit and have a drink at the bar. Theater performances, concerts, and Sunday flea markets take place here. The district is known for its numerous former factories that host up to 20 bars and restaurants.

Open: Monday, Sunday – 12pm-9pm, Tuesday-Thursday – 12pm-12am, Friday-Saturday – 12pm-2am.

R. Rodrigues de Faria 103

RED FROG

Avenida da Liberdade

PAVILHÃO CHINÊS

Bairro Alto, Bica & Cais do Sodre

In this unique bar called "The Chinese Pavilion", you get the impression that you are having a drink in a museum. Initially, food was traded in the building, later turning to trade in old and unusual items. Gradually, Pavilhão Chines has become one of the most popular bars in Lisbon. It will allow you to travel in time and space, its walls and wooden cupboards decorated with items from bygone eras created in different parts of the world, including artifacts, maps and miniature airplanes.

Open: Monday-Saturday - 6pm -2am; Sunday - 9pm - 2am.

RADIO HOTEL

Alcântara

This premium club, bar and live music venue attracts large crowds, especially during themed nights such as Brown Sugar. Make sure to arrive early to avoid standing in a long line.

The interior features an eclectic selection of furniture and neon illumination. The two-level dance floor includes a cocktail lounge and VIP zone.

The best DJs come here to play modern music. The club is famous for its GinTonic, which is served with strawberry and cucumber.

Open: Friday-Saturday - 11am -4am.

Trav. Conde da Ponte 12

Designed as a speakeasy (US prohibition era-style bar), this venue serves the type of cocktails made on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean during prohibition. You must press a button to enter the bar. Comfortably designed with a magnificent cocktail hall and elegant armchairs, the atmosphere is unmatched. Soft music, mainly jazz, funk or rock, plays in the background. The interior design is inspired by the 1920s and 1930s. Open: every day6pm -2am ; closed on Sundays.

Rua do Alecrim

Rua do Salitre 5A

MOST BARS AND CLUBS ARE CLOSED ON SUNDAYS AND MONDAYS.

R. Dom Pedro V 89

THE INSÓLITO

Bairro Alto

The Insólito has a beautiful terrace with some of the city's finest views. Make sure to try the Deer Bloody Mary, made with a special Bloody Mary mix, fresh mozzarella and basil.

O BOM O MAU E O VILÃO

Bairro Alto, Bica & Cais do Sodre

This ambitious project borrows its name from Sergio Leone's film "The Good, the Bad and the Ugly".

Everything comes together here - bar, restaurant, movie club and music hall hosting daily concerts and DJ nights. Unlike many Lisbon bars, the music is mainly soul, funk, afrobeat and jazz instead of techno and house. In addition to the many interesting features, the atmosphere, vintage interior and a wide selection of drinks are all very impressive.

This is an ideal place to spend time with friends, especially since many drinks are sold at a reduced price from 7pm - 9pm.

Open: Monday-Thursday - 7pm-2am, Friday-Saturday-7pm-3am.

Rua Do Alecrim 21

Open: Tuesday-Saturday - 6pm -12:30am, closed on Sundays and Mondays.

Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara 83

ROOFTOP BAR

Baixa Pombalina

This fantastic bar, located on the Hotel Mundial’s roof terrace, is amazing at sunset. A matchless view of Lisbon opens up from the panoramic lounge. Apart from the delicious cocktails, in the summer the guests come for the Sunset DJ events.

Open: 6.30pm - 12.30am

Praça Martim Moniz 2

RIO MARAVILHA

LX Factory , Alcântara

Here you will find a panoramic terrace, restaurant and bar. Famous musicians from all over the world play in the great hall.

The delicious cocktails on offer include Pop Rocks Margarita, with tequila, raspberry and sparkling candy, as well as Pineapple Rum, with lime and pineapple juice, honey, rosemary and pepper.

Decorated in velvet, this restaurant and bar offers a menu of 80 different premium branded Gin - Tonics. This space, located in a former monastery, Convento da Igreja dos Mártires, is in the most prestigious district of the city.

Restaurant Largo's chef is the famous Miguel Castro Silva. The bar serves delicious cocktails. Open: every day12.30pm -3pm ; 7:30pm - 12am.

Rua Serpa Pinto 10A

AVERAGE PRICES: COCKTAIL– 7.50€ BEER (0.5L) – 4.50€ WINE – 4.50€

Open: Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday – 12:30pm - 2am, Tuesday6pm - 2am; Closed on Mondays.

R. Rodrigues de Faria 103

LARGO Chiado

LISBON

LASHA BUGADZE

I took an interesting trip in 2000; it started in Lisbon and finished in Berlin. I criss-crossed Europe together with two of my Georgian friends and a hundred foreign friends, and years later I wrote a novel called “Literary Express” based on this experience.

I kept the concept of the cities, the trains full of writers and the trip intact in my mind, though I have replaced real people with made-up characters for ethical and other delicate concerns.

I have not changed my original impressions and the anxious or happy episodes characteristic of any journey, despite the fact that I linked it with a sad context – the war in 2008.

This episode describes the arrival of Georgian writers in Lisbon, where their European adventure began. Portugal became the gateway to Europe for me and for the characters in the novel. So much time has passed since, though Lisboa still remains vivid and attractive in my mind...

Excerpt from the novel “Literary Express” LISBON

The Poet Z. Meipariani and I are standing in the airport exit, looking for that one person who is supposed to have our names down on a piece of paper. Numerous travelers arrive with us, many paper-holding hosts greet them, though none of the papers carry our names. All of the names are unfamiliar.

Those who arrived with use easily find their selves (or names), while Zviad and I stand in the exit like mushrooms. I know what I will do: I have Heinz’s number, as well as some guy called Iliko’s number (they told me that Iliko is a Georgian student who lives in Germany and will be our guide or something like that). I can call them, if needed.

“They stood us up?” Zviad asks a rhetorical question, though it is apparent by his tone that he doesn’t care: he relies on me.

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“Germans would not do that”, I say. “Impossible. Maybe we misunderstood something?”

“Zaza, did we arrive somewhere else?” He is in a joking mood. That’s when I realize, comically on the one hand, but tragically on the other, our course of events: those scribbles on the paper of the man with the tanned face and shiny shoes are our names and not a list of some consumer items:

Mr. Xaxa, Mr. Jviadh, Welcome to Lisboa!

You can probably imagine how humiliating it is to approach this Portuguese man with his shiny shoes and tell him that you are Xaxa; that he is tired of standing there only because he was expecting to meet somethings called Xaxa and Jviadh.

“Don’t they have the letter Z?” Zviad asksme, surprised, while I shake our host’s hand and told him with a sly smile (which is really contempt):

“Hi, I am Xaxa”.

“Zdrastvuite”, says Zviad and this is where I find out that he does not know English.

The bus where they place us fully conveys the post-Soviet conflicts of the 1990s: Armenian writers occupy the front seats—Ms. Anait and Mr. Arthur Zeitutsian; Eldar Aliev (I’d be surprised if he had a different last name) from Azerbaijan is somewhere in the middle; and at the back, on the elevated central chair, Raul Aldamov, a Chechen poet. Russians stepped in after us and greeted us with a Russian accent: “Khelow”. The first one was younger with a beard and glasses (dubbed “the small Russian”); the other one was red-faced and older (consequently, dubbed “the big Russian”). The second one carried a thermos.

The Armenians acted intelligently, smiled at us parentally and talked quietly. I could not tell who the man and the woman were: spouses, lovers or just colleagues? Both were aging gracefully, though one couldn’t call them elderly. I could tell

that the woman was from an elite Armenian category - with a silvery shiny scarf wrapped around her head and tight jeans on her fat thighs.

I smelled Europe when I got out of the airport building. One of my acquaintances warned me that Portugal was Europe’s most faulty country and stupid me, I believed him – I even told this to unsuspecting Zviad, with a wise and experienced expression on my face. But, we were in heaven! Portugal was

beautiful. Even the healthy and shiny highway that we watched from our ethno-conflicted bus…and the old city placed on the hill, tiny restaurants, and some kind of lightness and happiness that people carry with them. The houses, squares, small streets, dishes, climate and the ability to touch history - all of these were marked with signs of happiness.

Despite numerous new impressions, the intelligent Armenians faced us, quiet and uninteresting Georgians. We were very

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sleepy and could not say a word. My soul and Zviad’s remained in yesterday’s Tbilisi. We later found out that Eldar Aliev from Azerbaijan was the most famous writer among the Caucasus penmen – even the poet Zviad had read one of his detective stories. He had invented Investigator Kraus (or something like that). I could not picture this “officially” dressed man crafting detective stories. He looked like a Soviet official from my childhood; he dressed smartly and treated women with exaggerated elegance.

In any case, a normal European would have committed a suicide in our bus since the air was vibrating with deeply politically incorrect passions. It’s so sad when you haven’t even met a person and he already annoys you.

You don’t know what kind of books he writes, what he’s like, if he’s kind or not really. Merely because he is Azeri and you are say, Armenian, he just has to annoy you. Take those Russians – I don’t even know their virtues, but they still make me anxious. Bombing people. Weren’t they trying to kill Elene and me a month ago? Infantile prejudices and preconceptions. If it were not for our countries, the atmosphere in our bus would become as transparent as Lisboa’s ocean-saturated air.

We met the Georgian student Iliko in the hotel lobby. Such “Ilikos” greeted writers from other countries as well. When they mentioned a student, I pictured a young girl or boy looking for additional income while they were studying; however, I was wrong. Iliko was a tired, old enough, balding bachelor with a jacket clearly acquired at a legendary discount - a jacket that could adorn a character from a science fiction movie.

Iliko and Zviad did not like each other from the beginning. I felt sympathy towards this unusual, lonesome, and knowledgeable person. I love when someone else gives me instructions on everyday issues. This is why I liked Elene in the first place. She made all the decisions. Somehow that’s how it worked out. I can’t say that Iliko reminded me of Elene, though he gave excellent instructions. On the contrary, Zviad hated this in people.

“They will give you the key now”, Iliko gave us orders after greeting us. “This is the registration point. After you register, go up to your rooms. Don’t smoke in the rooms or the alarm will go off and you’ll get kicked out. We are in the old city. Wander the streets. The locals like it when you address them in French – not in English. Portogalo… do you know who the Gauls were? They were French… they don’t understand Georgian.

The seafood in the restaurants is great… visit Pedro IV square - that’s grand… Europe for you starts from this country. At three, they break bread here. They served us some shit for

Artist/"Drawing Jesus"

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breakfast, but come down regardless, let others see us. Also, you’ll eat a bit”.

He was annoyed and joked at the same time. That was his way of talking.

“If that’s how they feed us in Portugal, imagine what they’ll do to us in Poland!” he laughed in the end and led us to the tables beside the elevators.

The registration point for the literary express was set up in one of the lobby corners. A smiling, yet strict girl gave us two small bags and threw information at us with a pleasant sternness (she was German, though she talked in angry English): “In your bag you will find a travel map, a photo catalogue of all

of the participants, money and room keys. Everyone should gather in the lobby at five; you will meet your colleagues at dinner”.

The girl’s name was Irmel, she had blond hair and round glasses. Iliko conversed with her swiftly, in authentic German, and even made her laugh. He then described her in the elevator: “She is a kind girl, but a psychopath. I know her from Berlin. She was all over this one Turkish tea server”, - Iliko sighed. “I haven’t had sex for eight months. One could flirt with her a bit…”

Zviad and me occupied the second floor, Iliko - the third. Zviad’s windows overlooked old Lisbon, while mine the overlooked the courtyard. Iliko visited me after a while.

“Did you find slippers?” - He asked.

I looked around and discovered single-use, soft slippers under a chair.

“Bastards, they did not give me slippers! You’ll probably have a robe as well”, said Iliko and looked in the bathroom, though he did not find anything interesting.

“Do they only provide slippers for the writers?” He looked at my slippers, upset.

“Take them”, I told him. “I’ve brought mine”.

“Yes?” His eyes lit up with joy.

“I never leave Tbilisi without slippers”.

“Yes, these are good”, he said and squished the slippers into his checkered jacket pocket.

“These are not really single-use”, he explained. “You can use them later too. Why should we leave them here?!”

“Hey”, he called before leaving. “Rest a bit, we break bread in two hours! Lisboa is awaiting!”

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136 PARK AND GARDEN

Lisbon was never mentioned in any official documents as the country's capital. In 1255, Afonso III lost interest in the royal city of the time - Coimbra - and moved the royal throne to Lisbon, which quickly became the most important city in Portugal and the de facto capital.

In 1808, the Portuguese royal family fled from Napoleon's army to Rio de Janeiro, and declared it the capital of the Kingdom of Portugal. That title held until 1822 when Brazil gained its independence.

A STRONG EARTHQUAKE HIT PORTUGAL IN NOVEMBER OF 1755 FOLLOWED BY A NO LESS TERRIBLE TSUNAMI. AS A RESULT, LISBON WAS COMPLETELY DESTROYED. THE CAPITAL WAS THEN REBUILT AT THE END OF THE 18TH CENTURY.

Tagus is the largest river on the Iberian Peninsula and thus can hold all of the military vessels in the world.

Lisbon is not built on the coast of the ocean, but rather at the embouchure of the Tagus River where the so-called Mar da Palha (translated as "the straw sea ") is formed. It will take you about 20 minutes to get from Lisbon to the nearest beach. The banks of the Tagus River stand in for beaches in the city: sunbathing is allowed, while swimming is not.

2 943 000 POPULATION

19576 A RESTAURANT

18 MIRADOURO –A LOOKOUT POINT

41 A MUSEUM

182 AN ART GALLERY

63 A HISTORIC STORE

59 A MONUMENT PROTECTED BY THE STATE

IN 2017, IT DID NOT RAIN IN LISBON FOR 236 DAYS / 2,799 HOURS.

THE AVERAGE ANNUAL TEMPERATURE IN THE SUNNIEST EUROPEAN CITY IS 18.1 0 C.

THE SIX-LANE SUSPENDED BRIDGE "VASCO DA GAMA" IN LISBON IS THE LONGEST IN EUROPE (17,2 KM).

THE 235-YEAR-OLD CAFE MARTINIO DA ARCADA IS THE OLDEST IN THE CITY; LIVRARIA BERTRAND, THE OLDEST BOOK SHOP IN THE WORLD, IS 285 YEARS OLD.

LISBON IS REFERRED TO AS THE "CITY OF THE 7 HILLS", BUT IN FACT THE NUMBER OF HILLS LARGER.

PRICES

A TWO-COURSE MENU IN A RESTAURANT FOR TWO PERSONS

LISBON WAS FOUNDED IN 1200 BC AND TO THIS DAY IS ONE OF THE OLDEST CAPITALS OF EUROPE. 0,80€ 5,27€

PORTUGAL IS LOCATED IN THE FURTHERMOST SOUTHWESTERN PART OF EUROPE. IT ALSO INCLUDES THE MADEIRA AND AZORES ARCHIPELAGOS OF THE ATLANTIC OCEAN. THE CONTINENTAL AREA OF THE COUNTRY IS 88 889 SQ. KM.

IN 1373, KING FERDINAND I OF PORTUGAL SIGNED A TREATY WITH ENGLAND. THE TREATY BETWEEN THESE TWO STATES IS MAINTAINED TO THIS DAY AND IS CONSIDERED THE OLDEST UNBROKEN CONTRACT IN THE WORLD.

PORTUGAL WAS THE FIRST OF THE COLONIAL NATIONS TO ABOLISH SLAVERY

THE PORTUGUESE FINALLY RELINQUISHED ITS COLONIES ONLY IN 1975.

PORTUGAL'S CURRENT BORDERS HAVE NOT CHANGED SINCE 1249.

PORTUGAL

PORTUGUESE IS THE SECOND MOST POPULAR ROMAN LANGUAGE IS THE WORLD AFTER SPANISH. 250 MILLION PEOPLE LIVING ON DIFFERENT CONTINENTS SPEAK PORTUGUESE. THIS LANGUAGE, ACCORDING TO ITS COVERAGE, IS THE 6TH MOST SPOKEN IN THE WORLD AND 3RD IN EUROPE.

PORTUGUESE IS THE OFFICIAL LANGUAGE OF 9 STATES: PORTUGAL, BRAZIL, ANGOLA, MOZAMBIQUE, CAPE VERDE, GUINEA-BISSAU, SAN TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE, EAST TIMOR AND MACAO (ALONG WITH CHINESE).

PORTUGUESE-SPEAKING PEOPLE ARE COLLECTIVELY REFERRED TO AS LUSOPHONES – AFTER THE ROMAN PROVINCE, LUSITANIA , WHICH USED TO BE LOCATED IN WHAT IS NOW MODERN PORTUGAL. THE COMBINATION OF ALL PORTUGUESE-SPEAKING TERRITORIES IS CALLED THE LUSOPHONY.

Tempura – a fried vegetables and fish / meat dish –was introduced to Asia by the Portuguese. The word "temperar" means “to bake” Portuguese.

The Portuguese are responsible for the popularity of tea in Europe. Gaspar de Cruz, a Portuguese missionary, was the first to call Chinese “chai” "tea" in 1560.

POPULATION SIZE

10,36 MLN

AVERAGE LIFE EXPECTANCY MALE - 78 YEARS ; FEMALES 84 YEARS

81% OF PORTUGAL’S POPULATION IS ROMAN CATHOLIC. CHRISTIANITY WAS PREACHED IN THE COUNTRY IN THE 1ST CENTURY WHEN THIS TERRITORY WAS A PART OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE.

PORTUGAL’S GDP IN 2016 WAS 218 087 MILLION EUR

PER CAPITA INCOME _ 20 575€

UNEMPLOYMENT RATE _ 9,9%

PORTUGAL’S STATE COAT OF ARMS AND FLAG DEPICT THE SAME VISUAL DETAILTHE OLDEST ASTRONOMICAL TOOL, CREATED IN THE 3RD CENTURY BC. SEAFARERS USED IT TO DETERMINE COORDINATES.

PORTUGAL IS ONE OF THE OLDEST COUNTRIES IN EUROPE AND ASIA AND THE WESTERNMOST COUNTRY ON THIS CONTINENT.

A SOFT CLIMATE WITH AROUND 3,000 HOURS OF SUNSHINE A YEAR AND 850 KM OF COASTLINE ALONG THE ATLANTIC OCEAN MAKE PORTUGAL AN IDEAL PLACE FOR REST AND RELAXATION ANY TIME OF THE YEAR.

MOST RESIDENTIAL HOUSES DO NOT HAVE CENTRAL HEATING.

THE PORTUGUESE HAVE VERY HIGH REGARD FOR THE COUNTRY'S ECOSYSTEM. ELECTRIC BILLS SHOW WHERE CONSUMERS’ ELECTRICITY HAS COME FROM.

In November 2011, the name of the surfer Garrett McNamara entered the Guinness Book of Records as the first person to ride the highest wave in the world, which measured 78 feet and appeared along the coast of Portugal.

THE PORTUGUESE TRAVELER FERDINAND MAGELLAN WAS THE FIRST PERSON TO TRAVEL AROUND THE WORLD. THE NAVAL EXPEDITION UNDER HIS LEADERSHIP COMMENCED ON 20 SEPTEMBER 1519 AND CONCLUDED ON 6 SEPTEMBER 1522.

WITHOUT SUNGLASSES

Anyone going to Portugal should know that this coastal country is not like any other European country, including Spain, its only terrestrial neighbor and eternal ‘frenemy’. It is completely different and probably always was.

Being different is so tasty, sweet and sturdy, and you won’t be able to get it out of your heart once it gets there. You will always want to go back.

The things that I can list and the pictures. The pictures that will never end: Belem Palace and coffee at Apolonia Station at 6am served in a thimble-sized cup, amply-mustached short men with black eyes that simultaneously express joy and sadness, countless

scores of saints statues, the blind asking for alms with money-boxes hanging on their chests, fish on a brass plate, unclear whether it was roasted on the stove or under the sun, and the Cascais rocks. The goldsmith’s street that Fernando Pessoa was in love with it, the first coffee shop in the world, the thin-walled pensaos where you fall asleep to be awaken by the song of your Brazilian neighbor, the white wine, called ‘green’ the Marques of Pombal statue and various statues in general: of kings and sailors in Lisbon’s trading squares, the stealthy, magic dusk that settles among the districts scattered in the hills, the lamps and unsteady cobblestones in Alfama and further afield, Bairro Alto, right there, in Chiado.

AKA MORCHILADZE

Are these touristic places? Yes and no at the same time. Emptying a site of everything and turning it into a tourist attraction does not work here. There are no such places here.

LISBOA CIDADE MIO (LISBON, MY CITY) SOUNDS

A BIT LIKE “TBILISI, MY CITY OF SUN AND ROSES”, THOUGH WITH A DIFFERENT TUNE, A TUNE THAT BELONGS ONLY TO THIS CITY, AND IF YOU HEAR IT SOMEWHERE ELSE, IT COMES FROM HERE. FADO, THE LOCAL SONG, CITY SONG, SIMULTANEOUSLY THE HEART KILLER, HEART GRASPER, HEART MELTER AND ENGAGER.

It carries the essence of Portuguese feelings, known to the world as the pronunciation of the Portuguese word saudade in the Cape Verdean Creole dialect, otherwise also known as sodade. Saudade is an unusual feeling, probably long and perhaps everlasting.

It conveys a person’s light, soft sadness, a longing towards something lost forever, never achieved and loved. It is complicated but a Portuguese feeling, not regarded as heavy or negative. Of course, saudade expresses much about the local soul.

Look at the ocean and saudade. Maybe, it is impossible otherwise. This is how the environment is here.

Portugal is a country strapped to the ocean. The railway stretched between two big cities rushes you from Lisbon to Porto. From one window you see the ocean and from the other vineyards scattered in the hills. This goes on for the whole route.

This is an old country with a great past. A long time ago, it could’ve developed as an empire, though that did not work out. Maybe there were not enough people, or some other reason, I don’t know, and maybe that’s good, since its history would’ve been different. However, the sailors, decedents of ancient Lusitania, sailed everywhere and often were the first to arrive. They went as far as their strength and desire to sail would stretch.

There was a time when foreign novelties would be unloaded right in the trading square and you could see all sorts of things. I think you can feel the sea’s soul in the architecture. It is still here. It is present even in small

towns away from the sea or international seaside resorts – famous Portuguese sand covered with Westerners, it is still everywhere.

You know the pictures are endless. If we believe that travelling is pictures, Portugal is a champion in that regard. They say that devil is in the detail, though we can change the saying, Portugal is in the detail.

Some say that it is overly melancholic, some claim it is too hot, some add that it is too monotonous, though none of them are right if you understand that you’ve mistaken peace for melancholia, learned how to walk on the shaded side of the street and have taken of your sunglasses to deconstruct monotony.

For example, you can’t walk in Sintra with sunglasses on. You simply won’t notice a lot. Generally, this is Portugal: you’ll soon find out that it is too good to walk about in sunglasses. Even in Faro, where you go for sun and water, ten times more awaits you a bit away from the shore.

There are so many things. Let’s say, Porto and Gaia, with a river in the middle, I think it is called the Douro. The famous rabelos boats navigated this river, loaded with port which we call portwein. Like Venice and gondolas, here you find port and rabelos. The old brick factories at the port look a bit like fortresses. Portugal and port and the ocean and the ancient streets and Via Caterina’s almost stiff cliffs are all fortresses.

The city is called a port, what else do you want?! It is a good city, a good big city, with bridges designed by Eiffel and thousands of sweet details. The food is delicious everywhere. Seafood is fresh, cheap and simple.

In such countries, if there are such countries, and Portugal is not the only one, whether in Coimbra or in Braga, it gets dark somehow sweetly, gradually and peacefully. And the dawn in these places is wide, soft and without the conundrum of noisy subways.

THESE ARE PLACES TO GO, TO REMEMBER, TO LOVE. TRULY, THERE ARE NOT SO MANY SUCH PLACES LEFT. THEY ARE VERY NECESSARY FOR THE MODERN WORLD. NEVERTHELESS, PORTUGAL HAS ITS OWN DIFFICULT AND PAINFUL PAST. JUST THINK OF HOW LONG SALAZAR WAS IN POWER. THAT IS ANOTHER STORY HOWEVER.

THE LAND OF GREAT DISCOVERIES

IRINA BAGAURI

In the XV century, at the beginning of the time of the historic discoveries, the Kingdom of Portugal was a small place by the sea. No man dared sail the sea, believing that it was a place of darkness, abyss and monsters.

The widespread belief that medieval scientists believed the earth to be flat is not supported by the scientific works of that era. However, there was a lot of resistance to the contrary, including unknown lands and, therefore, incomplete maps, lack of knowledge and tools for navigating, proper vessels, and most importantly, the fear of unknown, which was one of the main hurdles to discovering the new world.

Travelers in different parts of the earth were already exploring nearby sea and the land routes. Venice was the eastern gateway to Europe and held a monopoly on Asian goods. The Ottomans controlled most of the Silk Road. Though the Arabs sailed into the Indian Ocean and Chinese

The great geographical discoveries of Portugal are associated with the reign of Manuel I (1495-1521): Vasco da Gama reached India in 1498, Pedro Álvares Cabral discovered Brazil, and Afonso de Albuquerque founded the first colonies in the Persian Gulf.

Afonso de Albuquerque’s expeditions stretched Portugal from the Red Sea and East Africa to the South China Sea and the Spice (Maluku) Islands. In 1510, he conquered Goa and thus strengthened Portugal’s expansionist aspirations.

Map of Portugal's Great Discoveries in a square, Lisbon

crisscrossed the Pacific Ocean, no one dared go further at a time when science and fabulous legends combined without contradiction.

On one hand, medieval European scholars and cartographers calculated the length of the equator and created almost flawless maps; on the other hand, they seriously described and portrayed terrible creatures that roamed the remote corners of the Earth, now alive only in “Fantastic Beasts” by J.K. Rowling.

For example, until the XV century, Cape Bojador was the dividing line of the universe: the sea boiled beyond the line, and if a daring sailor were to somehow endure its heat, he would not be able to avoid the sea monsters. No one could survive their wrath.

Portuguese Prince Henry the Navigator was the first to venture to cross the terrifying line to discover and claim unknown parts for Europe. The fifth in line to the Portuguese throne, according to his contemporaries, he was a mysterious man and a devout Christian. The crownless nobleman, called the navigator, did not like to sail. Instead, he was moved by a great thirst for knowledge and fame. All kinds of people gathered around the Prince, which was a great disturbance at the time, and he relied on them to receive information about the scientific inventions of the far-flung, gold-rich kingdoms of the East.

The stories of Henry the Navigator, like most of the stories of that time, are mythical. Legend has it that the Prince’s purpose was to find the Holy Grail, the Arc of the Covenant, and research the lands of the legendary Prester John, often identified as David the Builder. These lands were said to cover the territory Ethiopia, and the corrupt inhabitants of foreign lands had to be converted to Christ's faith. Naturally, nobody knows exactly what passions

IN 1994, AFTER THE TREATY OF TORDESILLAS, SPAIN AND PORTUGAL SPLIT THE DISCOVERED LANDS IN HALF. PORTUGAL RECEIVED THE EAST OF THE "NEW WORLD", INCLUDING BRAZIL, AFRICA AND ASIA. THE FIRST GLOBAL EMPIRE, PORTUGAL BECAME THE LONGEST COLONIAL FORCE IN HISTORY, LASTING SIX CENTURIES FROM THE CEUTA COLONY IN 1415 UNTIL MACAU JOINED CHINA IN 1999.

guided Prince Henry, the Grand Master of Christ’s order: nostalgia towards crusades, desire to conquer new lands, treasure hunt, fame and glory, or simply finding a way to save an isolated country and find new passages via the ocean.

He planned to bypass Venice and the traditional route, circle the African continent and enter the lands of the East, which supplied Europe with expensive goods, porcelain, precious gems, spices, ivory and silk. Henry the Navigator approached the matter pragmatically, rationally and scientifically.

The Prince established the first maritime academy in history. It was built in 1416 on land granted by the King in the

1. Henry the Navigator and the School of Sagres

2. Astrolabe - The ancient astronomical tool (III century BC) used by mariners to determine coordinates.

3. Globe - Lisbon Maritime Museum

4. Europe, Portugal, Spain, 1657

THE LOPO HOMEM-REINEIS ATLAS IS A PORTUGUESE ATLAS FROM 1519 THAT CONSISTS OF 12 MAPS. LOPO HOMEM, THE PORTUGUESE COSMOGRAPHER, IS THE AUTHOR OF THIS ATLAS.

THE FATHER-SON TEAM OF PEDRO AND JORGE REINEL ASSISTED HIM. THE MAPS DEPICT THE ATLANTIC OCEAN, NORTHERN EUROPE, AZORES, MADAGASCAR, INDONESIA, CHINA SEA, BRAZIL AND THE NORTH SEA. THE DESCRIPTION OF BRAZIL ON THE 20TH

ANNIVERSARY OF THE CONQUEST OF ITS CONQUEST BY CABRAL IS PARTICULARLY INTERESTING.

THE ATLAS WAS IN FRANCE IN THE 16TH CENTURY. IN 1897, BÉNIGNE EMMANUEL CLÉMENT MILLER, EMPLOYEE OF THE NATIONAL LIBRARY OF FRANCE, BOUGHT IT AND THE ATLAS WAS NAMED AFTER HIM. THE ATLAS IS STILL KEPT IN THE NATIONAL LIBRARY OF FRANCE.

extreme southwest of Portugal on Cape Sagres, which was considered the end of the universe until the 15th century. The Prince used the Templar Knights’ wealth to build it. The main tasks of the academy were the preparation of professional seafarers, shipbuilding and maritime maps and tools. He employed invited scientists, astrologers and shipbuilders from different countries.

Using new routes to get to familiar places was a dangerous venture: while robbers threatened caravans on the ground, sea pirates troubled the ships. In addition, the European ships that sailed well in closed waters were unable to survive ocean storms.

The Caravel, an innovative ship, was created to solve this problem. It was a flexible, fast and solid vessel that was relatively small compared to previous ships. Due to the triangular rolling sails, it could use not only tail winds but also side winds.

The first expedition was a disaster. The sailors were terrified of crossing the line. In 1434, Portuguese Gil Eanes was the first to cross Cape Bojador, and the myths about sea monsters and boiling waters were thus shattered. Windstorms were the monsters, and the Portuguese eventually learned how to tame them.

Henry the Navigator died in 1460. He did not live to witness the major geographical findings he so longed to see, but

Fernando Magellan

Vasco da Gama

The Caravel, a vessel with high boards and overheads on the bow and stern, was common in the XIII-XVII centuries in Mediterranean countries.

all of them are linked to his name and were accomplished due to the maritime academy founded by him.

In 1487-1488, Portuguese Bartolomeu Dias was the first to round the southern tip of the African continent.

In 1492, Cristopher Columbus from Genoa, who acquired maritime knowledge in Portugal, sailed to America.

In 1498, Portuguese Vasco da Gama set sail on the route originally designed by Columbus, which the Genoese mariner accidentally missed. Vasco da Gama sailed around the African continent and reached India.

In 1500, Pedro Álvares Cabral discovered Brazil and declared South America as Portugal's property.

In 1503, Afonso de Albuquerque sailed to India and built a Fort in Cochin. In 1506-09, he conquered Arabian ports located on the eastern coast of Africa and the Arabian Peninsula. In 1510, he conquered Goa and in 1511 the Strait of Malacca and the Strait of Hormuz, located on the far east of the Gulf of Persia.

In 1519, Portuguese Fernando Magellan (under the flag of the Spanish Kingdom) first traveled around the world.

The Portuguese became the first to connect the Atlantic Ocean to the Indian Ocean and reached Africa, India, South-East Asia, China, and Japan from Europe via the sea. Because of these discoveries, Portugal became one of Europe's wealthiest and most powerful states, and the place that was believed to be the end of the earth in medieval times became a passage to the new world.

Portugal had established itself as a maritime state. Trade, missionary activity, new places of residence, and contacts with civilizations increased, and the cultures grew bigger and influenced each other. Humans, animals, plants, objects and ideas crossed the world in all directions.

Slowly but steadily, items that were used only in certain regions spread worldwide, whether it was sugar, pepper, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, tobacco, coffee, chocolate, tea, cotton, porcelain or firearms.

Eastern markets started focusing on the products that had large demand in Europe. Export industries were created – for example, Chinese porcelain of the famed Ming dynasty, which was first brought to Europe by the Portuguese.

Chinese artisans gradually begin to create items that depicted noble European coats of arms and narratives. Later, Portugal started producing its own porcelain, imitating Chinese examples. It was known throughout Europe and contributed greatly to the interest in ceramics among the Dutch. Hence, the famous Delft porcelain was created.

The story of the great discoveries has been repeatedly rewritten. The history of colonization is full of many awkward pages and numerous evils committed in the name of Christ. Many ships sank during the expeditions and few sailors were lucky enough to return to their homeland.

However, the efforts and courage of all these people, who at the expense of their own lives sailed seas never before known, mapped new lands, measured distances, invented navigational and astrological tools and studied the waters, winds and stars, completely changed the consciousness of humankind.

Thanks to their discoveries, the earth became larger and more secure, while the world became more diverse.

AZULEJO

Azulejo is a form of painted tin-glazed ceramic tilework. It is used to decorate walls. We often just call such items ‘tiles’ and use them in the bathroom, but in Portugal, azulejo is the ornamental face of the country. It is not merely a tile, it is the many stories depicted upon it.

Azulejo’s roots are Arabic. During Saracen rule, Arabs left a heavy mark on Spanish and Portuguese art. However, it should be noted that since then, azulejo has turned into a completely Portuguese thing, and anyone who comes to this country and is exposed to multitude of sights, will especially remember azulejo.

The interior and exterior walls of numerous palaces, public buildings, residences, churches and fortifications are adorned with azulejo. Portugal is impossible to imagine without it. Azulejo tiles depict biblical stories, unforgettable historical episodes, and many famous or not so famous stories.

One might think that this form of art was created precisely for Portugal, since azulejo is an integral, natural and original part of the country.

Portuguese Azulejo tiles comprise blue painting on a white ceramic background, which perfectly suits the country’s character, with its peaceful coastline, suntanned melancholia, importance of the sea landscape, its power and culture. These characteristics have determined the authentic character of this small country.

Azulejo is Portugal’s tangible past and the manifestation of its soul, something that is hard to discover today, and one of its stories is related to Georgia.

The azulejo in the Convento da Graca Church in Lisbon depicts the torture of Queen Ketevan. It was created in the 19th century, hundred years after the martyrdom of the Kakheti queen in Shiraz. Until recently, it was covered up, as the place was used as a kindergarten.

THE MARTYRDOM OF THE GEORGIAN QUEEN WAS KNOWN IN PORTUGAL, AND THIS TERRIFYING IMAGE PROBABLY APPEARED ON THE WALLS OF A NUNS’ MONASTERY, SINCE THE FIGURE OF A MARTYR QUEEN WAS A VERY RARE OCCURRENCE IN EUROPE AT THAT TIME AND WAS REGARDED AS A SPECIAL MORAL PEARL.

Furthermore, Augustinian monk Ambrosio dos Anjos petitioned for a long time for the pope to make Ketevan a saint. This never happened despite the fact Ambrosio had personally witnessed the queen’s torture and described it. He knew Ketevan well before the torture.

Ambrosio dos Anjos also asked the Persian shah to give him the remains of the queen. He later found the remains independently, dug them up and with the help

AKA MORCHILDZE

of missionaries, took them to India and then to Georgia, where they were delivered to King Teimuraz, Ketevan’s son, the tortured king of Kakheti. The monk met the king and told him the story.

When Ambrosio dos Anjos petitioned the pope, he wrote that the queen died a catholic martyr, though later he denied this statement. He was a missionary and tried to fulfill his own goals—it was a great deal for Augustinians to have a martyr catholic queen, both in the face of the East and Europe, which was in the middle of the 30-year war.

However, the Augustinian monk was probably moved by something that went beyond his missionary goalsthe respect of one Christian towards another. This was the first and last time that Ambrosio witnessed a person being tortured for their faith, and it was a person he knew well and admired. He liked her humility, firm character, faith and even appearance. He wrote that she was worthy of leading a whole empire, not only a small kingdom.

Ambrosio’s writing probably deeply impressed Augustinian monks. The pope did not acknowledge Ketevan’s Catholicism, yet alone sainthood, but the story remained exemplary, and it is not surprising that Augustinians thanked the lord that he let them be by the great queen’s side during her torture.

THE GRACA CONVENT IS ONE OF THE OLDEST AUGUSTINIAN SANCTUARIES IN LISBON. GRACA MEANS GOD’S GRACE, AND THE DISTRICT IS CALLED GRACA AS WELL. THE MONASTERY CARRIES TRACES OF DIFFERENT CENTURIES AND STYLES. IT WAS SHAKEN BY LISBON’S GREAT EARTHQUAKE AND HAS EXPERIENCED MANY OTHER THINGS TOO.

Graca church, one of Lisbon’s oldest churches, was erected by Augustinian monks at the same time as the monastery in the 14th century. The monastery was the biggest and richest at the time and accommodated 1,500 people. Today, it is used as a military barracks, and thus only the church is open for viewing.

It is truly surprising that Georgia, forgotten for centuries and known for a legend, more exactly, for fragments of legends, has its own azulejo that depicts a painful and powerful day in our history in a distant, magic city, without Georgians even being aware of it.

The church façade and bell tower are in baroque style, with many pictures and sculptures inside. The XV-XVII century azulejo is intact. Graca monastery’s capitolium hall is adorned with a 1,080-tile azulejo mural depicting the torture of queen Keteven. It is in a traditional Portuguese style, with glazed blue tiles. The mural portrays Queen Ketevan’s visit to Iran, her torture and the deliverance of the holy remains to King Teimuraz, her son. Queen Ketevan’s martyrdom was well known in Portugal, as confirmed by the mural, which was created a century after the queen’s death. Portuguese Augustinian missionary Father Ambrosio dos Anjos witnessed her death. He found her remains after searching for three months and 13 days. He described the horrible torture in his writing: “the great queen and martyr Ketevan died; an earthly queen became a heavenly queen”. Augustinian monks risked their lives to hide the holy remains and then transport them to different monasteries.

MIRADOURO DA GRAÇA (VIEWPOINT; MIRADOURO TRANSLATES AS “GOLDEN VIEW” IN PORTUGUESE) PROVIDES ONE OF THE BEST VIEWS OF THE CITY.

IGREJA E CONVENTO DA GRAÇA

LISBON’S ARCHITECTURAL GRAMMAR

There is no sea in Lisbon but you will rarely find such a “Maritime” city as Portugal’s capital. The sea and ocean spaces can be felt from every point - in the sky, in the air, in the wind . . . The proximity of the sea is felt the most prominently away from the center in Belem.

Belem is home to Lisbon’s four most interesting buildings – two old and two new. The first of the old had a religious purpose and the second a military, although they are very much alike stylistically and were both built in the 16th century.

The Jerónimos monastery with its massive nave and twostory wing with monk living quarters is the best example of the so-called Manueline style.

This transitive style is characterized by adding renaissancestyle decorations to Gothic buildings. The ocean’s proximity can also be felt in its ornaments – seaweed, exotic fruit, distant shores discovered by the Portuguese explorers …

The Belem tower was also created in the Manueline style. It is distinguishable by its unique esthetics and does not look anything like other buildings of this type. For a long time, the tower served as a castle and later as a prison. Although today it stands standing in unusual solitude, it was once a city gate.

The 1755 tsunami threw the tower into the river bed. The building was constructed in 1521 by Fransisco di Aruda. The hexagonal shape underlines its “maritime” character. The tower is often compared to a Caravella.

In Belem, there is also the so-called ‘Monument of the Discoveries” located near the tower. It was put up in 1960 in honor of King Henry the Navigator. Even though the king was never an explorer, he is considered to be the inspiration behind and the organizer of the great expeditions. The monument has a grandiose look, characteristic of the Salazar dictatorship period. Despite the fact that many Lisboans do not like it, the monument is an important symbol through its expression and “maritime” character.

One more distinguished building in Belem’s architectural landscape is the Cultural Center. It was designed by two architects – the Italian Vittorio Gregotti and the Portuguese Manuel Salgado.

The Belem Tower was built in the Age of Discovery by the decree of Manuel I as a tribute to the patron saint of Lisbon (S. Vicente de Belém).

The cathedral was built to immortalize Vasco da Gama’s grandiose journey, which is why the building’s gothic décor is dominated by maritime elements –anchors, coral reefs, ocean dwellers, ropes and nautical nodes. The combination of gothic and maritime style in architecture was later called the Manuelino style (estilo manuelino).

In 1496, King Manuel I asked the Pope’s permission to build a monastery to

immortalize Vasco da Gama’s future success, who was just beginning his great journey to discover a naval route from Europe to India. The construction site for the Jeronimos Monastery was selected near the Tagus river on the site of an old church of the Order of Christ.

In 1600, after its completion, the monastery was given to the Order of St Jerome (Jeronimos in Portuguese). As a result, it received its name from that order. It has an alternate name – Santa

MONUMENTO AOS DESCOBRIMENTOS

This monument is dedicated to the navigators and writers of the Age of Discovery. A 50 m diameter "Rose of the Winds" is depicted on the square in front of the monument. At the center is a 14 m planisphere portraying the routes of Portuguese caravels and carracks.

PALACE OF AJUDA

On 1 November 1755, Lisbon was shaken and all but completely destroyed by an earthquake, including the royal palace.

The royal family survived as they were outside of the city at the time. Joseph I was so scared that he refused to live in a stone building thereafter and ordered the construction

Maria de Belen. The cathedral was built using the money that Portugal received by discovering the new trade routes.

Two architects managed the construction during the reign of Manuel I. The first, Diogo Boitac, created the outline of the monastery. In 1513, the king purchased additional land for the construction so the plan was updated and the scale of the works increased. The second architect Juan de Castilho began to manage the construction in 1517. The south portal, the order members’ hall, the claustro (a closed yard), the refectory and the ossuaries were built under his management. The works were continued by Diogo de Torralva (1540-1551), and concluded by Jérôme de Rouen. The chancel (the space between the nave and the altar) was built according to his designs, which were in contrast to the overall style of Mannerism.

Admission to the monastery is 10€. Admission to the church is free of charge. You can buy tickets online to avoid the queues. Open: October-May, every day –10:00 am to 5:30 pm (last admission at 5.00 pm); May – September, everyday - 10:00 am – 6:30 pm (last admission at 6.00 pm)

Praça do Império

of a new wooden palace. The people called it "The Royal Barracks". Some 40 years later (1794), this building was destroyed by fire. Only after that was the royal palace of Ajuda built, where you can witness Portuguese royal luxury.

Entrance fee: 10€

Largo Ajuda

Vasco da Gama was a famous Portuguese explorer who discovered the naval route to India. This later became a global financial artery. He spent most of his life away from home and found rest in his own country only after his death. King Manuel I, the poet Luís de Camões and the writer Fernando Pessoa are also buried in Jerónimos Monastery.

The center houses the Berardo museum with its rich collection of modern art. The Cultural Center, despite its minimalist architecture, fits harmoniously with its surroundings through masterful use of building materials. The center of Lisbon is mountainous. Of the seven hills on which the center resides, some are so steep that ropeways have had to be built.

Lisbon, which survived the modern world wars, was a victim of several great disasters.

The 1755 earthquake and tsunami took the lives of 60,000 people – almost a quarter of the city. The ruins of Carmo square located near the Rossio square serve as a memorial to this catastrophe. The marquis built the new district according to a rational planning system: a regular network of streets, large rectangular squares from Praça

da Figueira to Praça da Comercio (which faces the river from four sides). To ensure fire safety, he began using traditional Portuguese tiles – Azulejo. After a century, the efforts of Marquis de Pombal were crowned with the construction of the Avenida da Liberdade. Todays, this street is Lisbon’s “Champs-Elysées”.

Lisbon is developing by converting port and industrial zones outside the city center. The Lisboans chose the right path by not giving these areas to developers to build soulless housing districts on. In turn, many architects and designers have taken part in the rehabilitation and adaptation process. As a result, many inactive fish factories, warehouses and workshops have been turned into hotels, cafes, restaurants and cultural centers, all of which has become an inseparable part of Lisbon’s charm.

REHABILITATION IS A DRY, ENDLESS PROJECT. IT MUST BE COMPLETELY OPEN IN ORDER TO COORDINATE TIME AND CONTEXT, AND TO PROMOTE THE VIABILITY OF DIFFERENT STRUCTURES." –ALVARO SIZA

This ensured that the population did not leave the district; on the contrary, they became fully involved in the rehabilitation works.

RECONSTRUCTION OF CHIADO

Another lesser but still quite tragic event in Lisbon’s history was the 1988 fire that completely destroyed Chiado –one of the largest districts of the so-called upper city. This catastrophe concluded the long process of Chiado’s degradation and kick-started its reconstruction and restoration. Reconstruction, conducted by the famous Portuguese architect Alvaro Siza, took several years and is considered one of the most successful examples of reconstruction of a historic center in the world.

The first priority was to create an integrated development program to enhance the image and residential appearance of the district. The first thing that was created was a system of metal pedestrian streets.

Alvaro Siza worked on the reconstruction project for a whole decade. The project was completed in 1990. Its basic concept was based on reimagining the 18th century “Pombaline” style. Using stone blocks, building materials and colors, the new district harmoniously blended in with the architecture of the surrounding districts.

Siza’s architectural plan included the nearby districts along with the burned area, aiming at a complete rehabilitation of the center that was in a dire economic situation. Siza created a unified network of public spaces in the form of squares, streets, patios, terraces, churches, underground carparks and shopping centers. This network then facilitated the creation of private spaces. The project fulfilled two main goals: the historical environment was not violated and the district has since achieved economic success.

THE LYRICAL MODERNISM OF ALVARO SIZA

Alvaro Siza is a living “dinosaur” of modernism. It’s hard to overexaggerate the impact of his work as an architect and teacher on Portugal as well as the whole world; however, I think that Siza is also loved in Portugal just for the fact that he's simply a good man. The winner of numerous prizes and a world-renowned architecture teacher, Alvaro Siza remains very modest. At the same time, he is a celebrated musician, singer and poet – it could be said that Siza is a living descendant of Portugal’s cultural heritage.

The buildings created by Siza in the tradition of contemporary modernism are full of the lyricism, poetry and expressionism inherent in the Portuguese character. Each angle of his buildings creates a completely different composition and all of those compositions are flawless.

ÁLVARO SIZA AWARDS:

1988 – VAN DER ROHE AWARD; 1992 – PRITZKER PRIZE; 1998 – JAPAN’S PRAEMIUM IMPERIALE; 2001 – WOLF PRIZE; 2009 – ROYAL INSTITUTE OF BRITISH ARCHITECTS GOLD MEDAL

2012 – VENICE ARCHITECTURE BIENNALE WITH THE GOLDEN LION AWARD;

Siza was born in 1933. After graduating from Porto School of Fine Art in 1954, he worked as an architect.

Over his 50-year career, Alvaro Siza has built 250 objects. The student of the renowned Fernando Tavora, he spent twenty years building middleclass houses with gardens. Since his childhood, he had dreamt of becoming a sculptor, which is why he constructs his buildings like sculptures. He prioritizes proportions and rectilinearity over decoration.

Despite his worldwide acclaim, Siza mainly works in Portugal where he is still worshipped.

He employs minimal technical means and the materials he has experience with: concrete, glass, old bricks. Siza’s projects are neither beautiful nor photogenic. In order to appreciate his works, one needs time, silence and foresight. Proportions, texture, illumination and space make his works look like sculptures.

Iberê Camargo Foundation Brazil, Porto - Alegre, 2008

Alvaro Siza built the building for the famous Brazilian artist Iberê Camargo's exposition in a narrow section between a mountain and a highway. Due to the scarcity of space, he placed galleries at different levels. Various fragments, interconnected with sculptural ramps, exit the building and enter it again. The great Guaiba River flows nearby: the museum windows allow for beautiful views of the river. The materials and color of the façade underline the building’s sculptural shape. Siza used glass to illuminate the light timber interior.

Serralves modern art museum Porto, 2007

The main building consists of an exhibition space, offices and a terraced restaurant. A colossal door serves to divide or connect the halls to each other. Light flows into the room through openings in the ceiling. Ventilation is carried out though incisions in the walls. The stone or plastered facades, the marble floors, the abstract minimalist walls, the unexpected views of the outside garden from the windows – all of these elements conduct a peaceful dialogue with the landscape.

Vidago Palace Spa Portugal, Vidago, 2012

Alvaro Siza added a new architectural touch in his spa center for Hotel Vidago Palace Ensemble, which dates back to the beginning of the 20th century and was originally built as a royal palace. Siza built a modernist-minimalist center using terracotta textures to connect the old and th e new. White plastered walls and bright interior stones create a perfect contrast to the colored façade. The newly constructed wing is modestly submerged in the ground to avoid covering the view of the landscape park.

Serralves Museum

FADO – ON THE THRESHOLD OF MELANCHOLIC HAPPINESS

The word Fado means ‘fate’ in Portuguese, and in the opinion of the Portuguese people, their country is impossible to understand without knowing this song form.

Fado is part of the spirit of Portugal, with blues in the depths of it, and as a blues, it is a result of the chaos in people’s hearts. That's why it is universal. Though language is its pillar, it is effective beyond semantics, as its second pillar is the human voice saturated with emotion.

When the fadistas (Fado singers) finish even the most tragic song, they smile and wait for the listener to smile as well because the only thing that remains beyond pain is a smile of relief. Being a fadista means walking hand in

BEING A FADISTA MEANS WALKING HAND IN HAND WITH FEELINGS OF LOVE AND A SENSE OF PAIN CAUSED BY LONGING.

EVERY FADISTA HAS HIS/HER OWN FADO, LIKE ALL BLUES ARTISTS HAVE THEIR KIND OF BLUES. OTHERWISE, YOU CANNOT LIVE IN FADO, OR SING IT.

KAKHA TOLORDAVA

Amalia Rodrigues, May 19, 1959

hand with feelings of love and a sense of pain caused by longing. Every fadista has his/her own Fado, like all blues artists have their kind of blues. Otherwise, you cannot live in Fado, or sing it.

One more important word to understand for Fado (and Portuguese people) is saudade. This word is a manifestation of the emotional state of the Portuguese and expresses light sadness, nostalgia, fast-moving happiness and unobtainable sorrow. However, saudade is never dark and negative - it is wrapped in a kind of romantic glow and is a feeling of a soul cleansed through tragic love. The Portuguese think that saudade is what differentiates them from other nations.

If you have saudade then you're a true Portuguese and you know what Fado is when the fadista sings: "naked words that you kiss upon the end of night, the words disappear when they crash across your sorrow” - you and the fadista are as one. This inseparable pair, Fado and Portugal, Portugal and saudade, saudade and Fado, has another pairing - Fado and Lisbon, especially Lisbon's two most multicultural regions, Alfama and Mouraria.

It's impossible to visit Lisbon and come back without touching this acoustic stoicism. “Alfama alleys, old Lisbon streets... every Fado tells of your past, Ah, Alfama alleys kissed by the moon, I want to live there, close to Fado!". It does not matter whether you understand these words, if the fadista is good, you will surely picture Lisbon’s alleys and streets and the people who live there.

The first official quadraphonic Fado recording dates back to 1902, but the music is much older. Even the most eminent Fado experts cannot definitely say when it emerged in Portugal, but one thing is certain: 1830 is the start of its official history, the date of Fado’s first performance in Lisbon. Many believe that it started during the Napoleonic era and the so-called peninsular wars. Fearing that the French and Spaniards would invade Lisbon, the English moved the royal family to Brazil. The royal court comprised 15,000 people, and it was a unique historical case of colonial inversion from one country to another. It was beneficial for both countries in many ways, including culturally. After all, this event contributed to Brazil's independence.

The Portuguese royal family spent 14 years (1807-1821) in Brazil, and it is likely that Fado travelled back with them, though not with the "elite" but rather with the “common" people: servants, stable boys, cooks, and handmaids.

In the end, this is just an assumption, and thus it is difficult to trace Fado’s roots. If Fado is a Brazilian phenomenon, then the original source is Africa and the slaves brought to the American continent, as it is known that initially Fado was based on a very popular Afro-Brazilian slow dance. After crossing to Portugal, the dance lost its body and syncopation, gained lyrics and slowly became a lyrical song - an Afro-Brazilian blues that became the urban folk song of Lisbon.

Shortly after the royal family returned to the capital, Fado was heard all across the city’s taverns and brothels. Thus, Fado became Lisbon’s property and its soundtrack, although this story is not the only version of its origin, and Fado experts often talk about the influence of the Moors and troubadours; they also mention sailors.

One thing is clear: Fado is a marginal music, and hence it carries such a simple musical point of view (a guitar and Guitarra Portuguesa – an oval, small Portuguese guitar are the basic tools required for Fado), but it is so rich emotionally.

Fado is the music of common folk, and it speaks to listeners in the language of their problems and feelings. It is a sufficiently elastic to easily adapt to a wide range of sensations and situations, and these sensations and situations are transported to another dimension through Fado - in the dimension where any of the characters in the song, the quality of the relationship and the items are conveyed to listeners so vividly that it is absolutely impossible not to empathize.

This is probably why it is difficult for a lot of people to hide their emotions, and thus the casas de Fado where Fado is performed (not the concert version of Fado!) are usually semi-dark rooms, and exposing emotions is not shameful

(A

GUITAR AND GUITARRA PORTUGUESA –AN OVAL, SMALL PORTUGUESE GUITAR ARE THE BASIC TOOLS REQUIRED FOR FADO.

for the fadista or the listeners. Darkness helps crystalize Fado, and at the same time Fado is an appropriate musical form to overcome darkness. Fado moves from light to light, driven by such phrases: "You wash your clothes in the river and chop woods for my coffin with your axes..."

Fado is such a flexible song form that it suited well anarchic ideas that had emerged in Portugal. This is one of the most unfamiliar phases of Fado history, and many do not know about it. Via Fado, people sang of the troubled life of the working class, the ideas of Marx and Lenin, the possibility of revolutionary change.

Furthermore, when the authoritarian regime of Estado Novo (New State) was established in Portugal in 1933, just like the Brazilian junta and Samba and Bossa Nova,

Fado began to adjust to its own interests. Fadistas could not sing about certain topics throughout the long Estado Novo period (1933-1974) because every fadista was required to pass a state exam and could perform only after receiving a certificate.

Even though the regime never trusted Fado, Fado become the national music, though at this time its poster singers glorified family values and love of the homeland. However, Fado endured this blow and returned to the Portuguese enriched.

THE FIRST OFFICIAL QUADRAPHONIC FADO RECORDING DATES BACK TO 1902, BUT THE MUSIC IS MUCH OLDER. EVEN THE MOST EMINENT FADO EXPERTS CANNOT DEFINITELY SAY WHEN IT EMERGED IN PORTUGAL, BUT ONE THING IS CERTAIN: 1830 IS THE START OF ITS OFFICIAL HISTORY, THE DATE OF FADO’S FIRST PERFORMANCE IN LISBON.

Fado was never taught in music institutions and is not taught there today. It is unity of songs gathered on the streets of Lisbon, Coimbra or any other city. Fado’s resemblance to blues is noticeable. It involves the passing down of knowledge among fadistas, knowledge mainly acquired in taverns, brothels and ports. Every fadista adds their own style.

In this respect, Fado is like a jazz standard. Certain Fado songs, just like a jazz standard, are endlessly refined by every subsequent fadista. Fado was started by men, but due to its emotional charge, it always strayed in the direction of women, until one day women started to sing Fado songs, and as expected, these melancholic songs suited them well. The first woman to sing Fado and play guitar was Maria Severa, a very beautiful prostitute,

mistress of Count Francisco de Paul and the first Grande Dame of Fado. Today, anyone who writes about Fado, usually mentions her first. She died in 1846. With so many great fadistas and so much poetry in traditional and crossover music living in the heart of Portuguese people, when former mayor of Lisbon Pedro Santana officially requested the recognition of Fado as cultural heritage in 2009, UNESCO took only two years to accept this proposal. In 2011, Fado was placed on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage List.

Many doors open for those who come upon Fado for the first time. Maria Teresa de Noronha, Fernando Farinha, Carlos do Carmo, Branco, Mariza, Ana Moura, Ana Sofia Varela, Herminia Silva, Maria da Fe, Joana Amendoeira, Dulce Pontes or Portuguese band Madredeus - all of these make for a really good start for any beginner. No matter how one gets into this melancholic acoustic environment, there is one mandatory entrance door for everyone: Amalia Rodrigues, "the Fado Queen" and "Voice of the Century", who introduced Fado to the world and made it mainstream. Today, Fado and Rodrigues are perceived as synonyms for the Portuguese and both have determined the national identity. That's why, after her death in 1999, the Portuguese government announced three days of national mourning, and for those few days, all Portuguese were "Amaliano" - fans of Amalia.

"We, the Portuguese have created Fado," said Rodrigues once. “Why? Because we have so many reasons for sorrow. God has put our home in a place that nobody would visit, unless it was necessary. We have Spain neighboring us from one side, who has always threatened us with a sword in hand, and on the other - a frightening ocean. So we had enough time for sorrow and suffering and that is exactly what Fado is. "

"WE, THE PORTUGUESE HAVE CREATED FADO," SAID RODRIGUES ONCE. “WHY? BECAUSE WE HAVE SO MANY REASONS FOR SORROW. GOD HAS PUT OUR HOME IN A PLACE THAT NOBODY WOULD VISIT, UNLESS IT WAS NECESSARY. WE HAVE SPAIN NEIGHBORING US FROM ONE SIDE, WHO HAS ALWAYS THREATENED US WITH A SWORD IN HAND, AND ON THE OTHER - A FRIGHTENING OCEAN. SO WE HAD ENOUGH TIME FOR SORROW AND SUFFERING AND THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT FADO IS. "

Today, everyone and everything in the Fado world is marked with her presence, so people who wish to understand Fado during their trip to Portugal should visit the Rodrigues museum in Lisbon as well as the Fado Museum in Alfama. Rodrigues remains the starting point even for those who are tired of museum trips. Afterwards, all that is left is to wander the streets of Lisbon because these streets best keep Fado’s secrets and are the best Fado story-tellers.

Recommendation

CLUBE DE FADO

This Fado house was founded by guitarist Mario Pacheco in a building that is over three centuries old. It is located behind Lisbon’s cathedral. A gothic, elliptical ceiling and stone columns provide the aquatics. Four different fadistas sing here daily, including Maria Ana Bobone and Rodrigo Costa Félix. Open: every day 8pm – 2am

Rua São João da Praça, 86

A NINI - Rua Dom Francisco Manuel de Melo, 44 ADEGA MACHADO - Rua do Norte, 91

With dinner, the cost of attendance is 50 euros.

The best Fado houses in Lisbon. Here you can listen to Fado performed by professionals or amateurs and sample traditional Portuguese dishes.

APOCRYPHAL SARAMAGO

I was going to meet the man I am about to tell you about 18 years ago in Lisbon, but I fell victim to a transportation strike and was unable to reach my destination. I arrived at the epicenter of the event when only a whiff of perfume lingered after the famous speaker.

People I saw there all talked about him, his coming and leaving, and it was hard for me to form an image based on this diverse mosaic.

Instead of the canonical version, I had received the apocryphal version of him, conveyed exactly like the man wrote in his most famous apocryphal novel “The Gospel According to Jesus”.

His viewers described the man in so much detail that I had a feeling that not one but ten Jose Saramagos have left this strong, sweet aroma.

One of them told me that the celebrated Portuguese writer was escorted by policemen (this turned out to be a lie). Another claimed that he was accompanied by a proud and beautiful woman, his wife. A third informed me that the writer greeted his collegues from various countries pathetically, loudly and ridiculoiusly, just like Fidel Castro used to do.

The only thing that Jose Saramago and the aforementioned Castro have in common is that they were both

LASHA BUGADZE

© Fundação José Saramago

communists, though their communism was very different. The Portuguese writer was an intellectual European communist, and as such, naturally was distinctively different than the ill-omened practical communists, many of whom we know from our tragic history.

Poverty-stricken in childhood, he hated capitalists that exploited the working class, though he never fell so low as to praise Lenin, Stalin or Mao. He believed that the largest communism experiment, the Soviet Union, was the most anti-communist scheme and always tried to separate “apocryphal” communism from “canonical” communism. In any case, unlike Jean-Paul Sartre, he never said he was too old to change his mind about the Soviet Union and never praised the USSR like some, including Picasso, who received ample free paint from there to depict his famous peace dove.

He set the creation of historic, or super-historic, if you will, alternatives as his literary goal: apocryphs that bring novelty into the canonic model – shocking for many. However, there is no pretense that the apocryphal version would replace the established one, but was the manifestation of an era - where the twentieth century had its own version of the ‘gospel’. For example, “The Gospel According to Jesus” portrays a twentieth-century “Jesus” (in any case, he comes after Marx’s Communist Manifesto), while Cain in his last novel is more upset and skeptical than the biblical one, and lot more so than the one created by Byron’s imagination.

People were as angry at “The Gospel According to Jesus” as they were at Nikos Kazantzakis’ “Last Temptation of Christ”, though, thank god, a lot less angry than they were at Salman Rushdie 10 years ago– the price on his head was established in Iran in 1989. However, as these things usually go, the most angry people usually have not even read one phrase by the authors in question. How could angry men understand stylistically or conceptually confusing books when they do not have skill to read and comprehend mere newspaper article titles.

However, those who have read “The Gospel According to Jesus” would surely be surprised by the discovery that this communist turned out to be a great faithful, just like Tertullianus believed, because it was absurd. A Lisbon cardinal stated that it was impossible for the faithful to dislike Saramago’s apocryphal “gospel”.

Turning absurdity into reality is a challenge like the one that Don Quixote of La Mancha, his literary-geographic

neigbour, faced. Just as there was a “non-reality” that was more real than reality for the Cervantes character, so was death for Saramago’s characters… and not because his literature claims to be eternal but because the writer abolished death in one of his most absurdly believable novels, “Death Interrupted”, where he mocked not death but everlasting life.

When 18 years ago in Lisbon I was to meet Saramago but only met the remnants of his eau de cologne, the statue of the second (or maybe the first) Portuguese writer, Fernando Pessoa, sat down at the city’s old square - as if the poet enjoyed being in café and had just finished his coffee (and not naked and wrapped in sheets like sculptors depict poets in our country). And I heard that Saramago’s statue was near Pessoa statue but that his proud and beautiful wife complained that the real Jose was different.

That’s true, Saramago is different from everyone.

TURNING ABSURDITY INTO REALITY IS A CHALLENGE LIKE THE ONE THAT DON QUIXOTE OF LA MANCHA, HIS LITERARY-GEOGRAPHIC NEIGBOUR, FACED. JUST AS THERE WAS A “NONREALITY” THAT WAS MORE REAL THAN REALITY FOR THE CERVANTES CHARACTER, SO WAS DEATH FOR SARAMAGO’S CHARACTERS… AND NOT BECAUSE HIS LITERATURE CLAIMS TO BE ETERNAL BUT BECAUSE THE WRITER ABOLISHED DEATH IN ONE OF HIS MOST ABSURDLY BELIEVABLE NOVELS, “DEATH INTERRUPTED”, WHERE HE MOCKED NOT DEATH BUT EVERLASTING LIFE.

©

Fundação José Saramago

MARINA KIPSHIDZE

The Portuguese Tourada is different from the Spanish Corrida. The humanity is different: Tourada is less cruel. The bull cannot kill the opponent because its horns are smoothed and special leather caps are placed on them.

Marquis de Pombal, the most influential XVIII-century government minister, banned the ruthless treatment of bulls. King Miguel I (1828-1834) and Queen Maria II ultimately established Tourada rules to free the battle from blood. The rules of Tourada have not changed since the time of Marques de Pombal (1699-1782).

Clowns take the arena before the start of the show. They distract the bull when the battle becomes difficult. A richly-dressed cavaleiro the enters on a Lusitano horse. These horses are considered to be the most advantageous for Tourada as they are not afraid of bulls, are enduring, brave, and motivated.

Historically, cavaleiros were noblemen and their clothes are valuable and impressive. In Portugal, there are many dynasties that follow this craft; the festive outfits are passed down through generations.

After the cavaleiro, forcados enter the arena and try to subjugate the bull. Historically, they could not boast of their noble origins. Most of them only fought because of their love for the art of Tourada and did not receive any payment for their hazardous job.

TOURADA

The cavaleiro holds a farpa - a small spear, which has a 2cm double-edged hook. When the spear is thrown into the bull’s nidao (between the shoulders and neck), the fat under the skin hardens and the animal is not hurt too much. After the cavaleiro stabs the bull with several farpas, eight forcados take to the stage. Their roles are strictly defined.

They have no weapons. Some of them are defenders and some are attackers. For example, one of them attacks from the front, excites the bull, and receives the first blow.

The most powerful forcados grab the bull by its tail and “dance” with him. The rest of them attack. In contrast to the Spanish toreadors, forcados do not use red cloths and mantle. They demonstrate their swiftness and flexibility.

Their task is to capture the bull and corner him so that he won’t be able to move. Audience shouts out encouragingly, and demand more craftsmanship. When they get hold of the bull, a little herd of calm bulls come out and move towards the stalls.

The herd instinct pushes the bull to follow them and leave the arena. There is no animal slaughter or bloodshed; the animal rests, his wounds heal, and he prepares for the next Tourada.

Never use the term "toreador" in Portugal – use forcado instead.

WHERE TO SEE A TOURADA

The most interesting and spectacular shows are held in Campo Pequeno, Lisbon. You can order tickets online or buy in advance at the stadium boxes, otherwise you will have to stand in the long queues and might not even get close enough to see this impressive sight.

PARTICIPANTS AND ACCESSORIES:

Cavaleiros - riders dressed in XVII-century costume;

Toiro - bull;

Bandarilheiros – a cape which is yellow on one side, and red or dark pink on the other;

Forcados - eight men who catch and detain the bull;

Ganadeiro - chooses a bull for each cavaleiro;

Campinos - men dressed in peasant clothes that approach the stalls at the end of the show.

Embalador - the man who fastens caps on the bull’s horns;

Banda - a group of musicians who perform traditional melodies for Tourada;

Corneteiro - a man who blows the bull’s horn at the end of each lide.

Tourada usually starts at 10 pm. Remember, the front row is not the best place - the seventh row of the third seating area is considered the best. It is located on the opposite side of the gate that the bulls pass through to get on to the field. From there, you can even observe the angry bull even before it comes out of the arena.

Ticket price for Lisbon Campo Pequeno:

First rows of areas I-II - 75 €; areas III and VII - 70 €, IV-VI - 65 €. Each subsequent row is cheaper by 5 €. The cheapest ticket costs 22.5 €.

Prices in smaller cities are less than 10 €.

CAMPO PEQUENO

The first historical document that describes the fight on the Campo Pequeno field dates back to 1741. It is kept in the Royal Library of the Palace of Mafra. The field has witnessed not only Touradas but also a number of other important events. Concerts by famous musicians and other events are held on the reconstructed arena.

THE CURSE OF RONALDO, EUSEBIO AND GUTTMANN

One can claim with great confidence that European soccer today, and even world soccer, "speaks with a Portuguese accent", and I don’t mean because of the Brazilian national team’s many successes.

Judge for yourself: In the December-January period a year ago, Cristiano Ronaldo reaped his annual harvest of prizes, adding to his rich personal collection his second consecutive and fifth overall Ballon d'Or, among others. He again caught up with the great Argentine Leo Messi and is co-holder of

the record. I don’t think anybody has held as many leather balls, let alone golden ones! Those two geniuses also hold the same number of "Golden Boots" (4), awarded to the leading striker in a European season!

When talking about records, we must recall Ronaldo's totally unreal performances in the Champions League games, where he is the leader in terms of goals scored, ensuring consecutive wins in this prestigious tournament for Real Madrid. With every score he improves his own phenomenal

BIDZINA BARATASHVILI

THE NATIONAL TEAM IS WINNING, RONALDO RULES THE FIELD AND THE FANS ARE HAPPY!

Cristiano Ronaldo

record – this year he even passed the 120-goal mark! And the kinds of goals he scores are incredible – recently in Turin he scored with a bicycle kick against Juventus that even Van Basten or Fischer would have envied. It was no surprise that the Italian public, who have seen it all, rose to their feet and awarded him an ovation!

Now, let's mention the national team. Until recently, Portugal was considered a team dependent on its leader. In 2004, during the Euro championships in Portugal, the home team was twice bested by the Greeks, and skeptics labeled it a team "in fear of decisive matches". The hosts, considered to be among the main contenders, had at its core the golden generation of Luis Figo and Rui Costa, who won two consecutive youth World Cups and the European Championship (headed by Ronaldo). First, they lost the opening match to characterless Greece (1-2), and then won, letting the Greeks play the national anthem, written by Nikolaos Mantzaros, on "Da Luz" to celebrate the result of the finals (0-1)!

In the 2016 Euro championship, the Portuguese left the completely opposite impression and in a way rewrote the history of continental soccer. First, they displayed a good level of long-term tactical planning in France when they won their group while conserving strength. Many considered three draws to be a sign of weakness, but those who can

FIRST, THE MOZABIQUE PLAYERS MÁRIO ESTEVES COLUNA AND EUSÉBIO DA SILVA FERREIRA BROUGHT VICTORY TO LISBON’S BENFICA IN TWO CONSEQUTIVE UEFA CHAMPIONS LEAGUE CUPS, THEN THEY PUT THE NATIONAL TEAM AMONG THE WORLD’S ELITE AND BROUGHT HOME THE BRONZE MEDAL FROM ENGLAND IN 1966.

THE TROPHY COLLECTION OF EUSEBIO, KNOWN AS THE BLACK PANTER, INCLUDES TWO EUROPEAN GOLDEN SHOES, A BALLON D'OR RECEIVED IN 1965, AND THE GOLDEN BOOT FOR BEING LEADING GOAL SCORER AT THE 1966 WORLD CUP (9 GOALS).

remember probably recalled the 1982 Italian national team, which started similarly and went on to win the World Cup in Spain. During the knock-out stages of the tournament, Fernando Santos' players displayed strength of character when keeping the Croats and Welsh from scoring. They remained strong during a penalty shoot-out against Poland (5-4). Finally, they bested the host French team with goals from Eder in the endlessly stretched out final, even without Cristiano, who got injured on the 25th minute – that’s what I call a metamorphosis!

In short, the team wins, Ronaldo reigns and the fans are happy! Portugal played its first international match on December 18, 1921, in Madrid and lost 1-3 to neighboring Spain. The only thing worth remembering is the goal scored by Alberto Augusto in the 75th minute, the national team’s first goal out of almost a thousand.

Portugal did not have any tangible success until the end of the 1950s. They lost to Spain 0-9 in the 1930s and to England 0-10 in the 1940s! However, one or two high-profile players could still be found back then. The best among them were Manuel Vasques, José António Travassos and "Matateu". Travassos was even invited to play on a European team against Great Britain in August 1955 (Europe team won 4-1), and Matateu’s goal brought a first historic victory against England in 1955 (3-1).

Mário Esteves Coluna

Eusébio da Silva Ferreira

It was Matateu’s success that led Portuguese functionaries to pay attention to players born in the African colonies. A Mozambican boy, brilliant among the "Belenenses" players, he twice became the championship’s top goalscorer, and having scored 218 goals in 289 games, 13 of them for the national team, earned the nickname of " the Eighth Wonder of the World".

Unfortunately, he never played alongside two other Mozambique players, stars of the next generation - Mário Esteves Coluna and Eusébio da Silva Ferreira - who brought victory to Lisbon’s Benfica in two consecutive UEFA Champions League Cups and then put the national team among the world’s elite and brought home the bronze medal from the World Cup in England in 1966.

Many have written about Coluna and Eusébio. I will only tell you that the former won 16 titles in Portugal (10 championships, 6 cups), while the latter, Eusebio, known as the Black Panter, has a trophy collection that includes 11 championships, 5 cups, two European Golden Boots, and a Ballon d'Or received in 1965!

By the way, Eusebio was nominated for this prize 11 times and received 2 "silver balls" besides winning once. Add to this the title of the 1966 World Cup’s leading goalscorer (9 goals) and the historic turnaround in a match against North Korea – in the 25th minute the Asians were winning 3-0 and Eusebio saved Portugal by scoring 4 goals - and you will see why he was compared to Pelé and how he won the personal duel with the "King" in the same World Cup in a match that ended with Brazil’s defeat (3-1)!

Years later, Eusébio's accomplishments would partially be repeated by Luis Figo (Ballon d'Or) and Fernando Gomes (Golden Boot), and then Ronaldo's era began.

Among the achievements by Portuguese teams, we should mention that Porto has won the Champions League and Intercontinental Cups, twice each. Sporting Lisbon has won the Cup Winners’ Cup. I should also note one fact: after Benfica won the Champions Cup in 1962, it reached the finals of various European championships eight times (5 Champions Cups / League + 3 European League) and lost in all eight games!

Legend connects these failures to the curse of Bela Guttmann, Lisbon’s Hungarian coach. Apparently after the 1962 triumph, Guttmann asked the club owners for a raise. After he was declined, he left his job, saying: you won’t have a success in Europe without me for a hundred years! Since than, Guttmann's curse restlessly hangs over Benfica.

1963, Final of the Champions Cup: Benfica was winning against Milan but lost 1-2;

1965, Final of the Champions Cup: Minimal loss against Milan’s Inter 0-1;

1968, Final of the Champions Cup: Draw in the main time with Manchester Utd and defeat in extra time 1-4;

1983 UEFA Cup Final: Defeat in a two-match duel with Anderlecht 0-1, 1-1;

1988, Final of the Champions Cup: Defeat in penalty shootout against Eindhoven 5-6;

1990, Final of the Champions Cup: Defeat against Milan 0-1;

2013, European League finals: Defeat against Chelsea with a goal scored in the additional minute added by the referee 1-2;

Eusébio da Silva Ferreira, Béla Guttmann and Mário Esteves Coluna, 1962

Béla Guttmann

2014 European League Final: Defeat in penalty shoot-out against Seville 2-4.

I attended the 2013 and 2014 European League finals (in Amsterdam and Turin) myself. On May 14, 2014, at Juventus’s Stadium, I was given an opportunity to meet with Eusébio.

When asked a trivial question about the Guttmann curse, he replied with a sad smile: "I visited Bela’s grave in Vienna twice before the Chelsea and Milan finals asking him to lift the curse.” He was definitely counting on it that evening.

In that year, the Champions League final was held in Benfica’s Estadio da Luz. I flew directly from Turin to Lisbon. On May 24, when I arrived at this fantastic arena to watch the Madrid derby (Real vs Atletico) I, like many fans before me, stopped by the monument of this ingenious forward and took photos at this sacred place. Then I looked at the ticket, took directions from a local volunteer, and rushed to Gate 18 for VIP guests.

IMAGINE MY SURPRISE WHEN AS SOON AS I ENTERED THE HALL, I WAS ASKED, ALONG WITH OTHER GUESTS, TO POSE WITH A RECENT BRONZE SCULPTURE BY HUNGARIAN ARTIST LÁSZLÓ SZATMÁRI JUHOS (FEBRUARY 28, 2014) OF BÉLA GUTTMANN HUGGING TWO CHAMPIONS’ CUPS AND SMILING FROM A PODIUM AT ME!

Portuguese soccer stands on 3 "whales" and each boast a distinctively beautifully, modern stadium.

All three stadiums opened in 2003 after getting a makeover as the country was preparing to host the European Championship. They have something like Bela Guttmann's curse upon them: Portuguese soccer has suffered shameful defeats in each of the three stadiums!

Sporting’s Estádio José Alvalade was renovated first, erected after the removal of the old structure which bore the same name. Sporting had spent the 1956-2000 period there, and now the sports complex is owned by Alvalade XXI.

Capacity / Field size: 50 095/105 x 68 m

Architect: Tomas Taveira

Construction cost: 105 million euros

Soon, Benfica followed their city neighbours and in 2002 razed the old Estadio da Luz to the ground and built a new

one in two years. Besides being called "The Stadium of Light", it is also referred to as "The Cathedral".

Capacity / Field size: 64 642/105 × 68 m

Opened on 25 October 2003.

Architect: Damon Lavelle

Construction cost: 118.7 million euro

The story of Porto’s renovated arena, Estádio do Dragão, where the club had moved from the old Das Antas, started in a better manner. The opening ceremony was crowned by a win in a friendly match against Barcelona in what was Leo Messi’s debut for the Catalans.

Capacity / field size: 50 033 / 105×68 m

Opened on 16 November 2003.

Architect: Manuel Salgado

Construction cost: 125 million euros

Estádio José Alvalade

Estádio da Luz

Estádio do Dragão

WHAT IS REFLECTED IN JOSÉ AVILLEZ’S MIRROR

Rua Nova da Trindade meanders through Shiadu, one of the liveliest districts of Lisbon

This strange street seems to always go upwards, elegantly rocking its Azuleju-clad body, sharing hundreds of amazing flavors with Lisbon's mischievous winds. The passersby, mesmerized by the astounding aromas, look at the restaurant windows, laid with porcelain, and suddenly remember that they are very hungry and, as if hypnotized, join the queue. This is the queue to "Bairro do Avillez” – one of the restaurants of the youngest and most popular Portuguese chefs, José Avillez.

To get to this lively space, where the Michelin star chef does his magic, for lunch or dinner, you should make a reservation or wait patiently in line.

To the high arched walls of the the former monastery, the refined aromas and the scent of vanilla will come as no surprise. The creative process of Portuguese cuisine traditionally took place in walls not unlike these, when monks and nuns –like the real alchemists – created recipes of such subtle dishes that some ingredients are still astounding. Portuguese

navigators and merchants were introduced to the world cuisine as far back as the 16th century. The exotic aromas of the far and middle east have easily taken foothold in Lisbon. The Portuguese learned egg yolk desserts from Thailand and now they are traditional, and they introduced tempura to Japan as well.

José Avillez took the openness of Portuguese cuisine and an interesting architectural space, and mixed them with his imagination to create a unique product. Waves of steam and

SALOME DADUNASHVILI

José Avillez

© Paulo Barata

dozens of different flavors flow into the open patio space of “Bairro do Avillez” from an open kitchen. In the desserts section, liquid nitrogen covers the floor like a fog. Clients looking at this culinary performance fidget restlessly in their chairs in anticipation.

In the evenings, a secret door hidden in the depths of the restaurant opens for the select few. A cabaret show of culinary delights takes place through here. Lucky ticket-holders make themselves comfortable in soft armchairs and entrust all of their senses to “Beco Cabaret Gourmet”.

The chef is involved in everything at Avillez. He is concerned about the color of the walls, the shape of the chairs, the texture of the fabric. He works closely with his architect friends and from the onset of his career, the creation of the restaurant space has been as important to him as the menu itself.

José Avillez has lively eyes, tousled hair like a teenager and explosive energy. Stopping for him is equal to death, and he always believes that his best restaurant will be his next one.

OPEN: EVERY DAY 12 PM -12 AM

CANTINA PERUANA

OPEN: MONDAY – FRIDAY 7PM-12AM; SATURDAY-SUNDAY 12:30PM-3PM, 9PM-12AM

R. NOVA DA TRINDADE 18

WE LOVE TO SETTLE OUR AFFAIRS AT THE DINNER TABLE. OUR ENTIRE SOCIAL LIFE REVOLVES AROUND THE TABLE. WE LOVE GOOD FOOD, AND WE LOVE TO EAT – THAT’S WHY WE APPRECIATE GOOD INGREDIENTS AND DEMAND THAT THE FOOD IS OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY.

Culinary art is a world trend, but the popularity and celebrity status puts additional pressure on chefs. Every chef tries to invent and bring something new to culinary art and cook something new.

What does Portuguese cuisine offer the world?

Portuguese cuisine with its traditions, tastes and influences has always been a source of inspiration for me. I am proud of our cuisine, because it’s very rich, diverse and indigenous,

while simultaneously being part of the Mediterranean nutrition system.

The difference in Portuguese cuisine is due to the cultural exchange and relationships that happened during the era of discoveries. These ingredients and different food preparation techniques from foreign countries have influenced and continue to enrich our cuisine.

BAIRRO DO AVILLEZ

© Paulo Barata

© Paulo Barata

© Paulo Barata

All regions have different, special products: wine, cheese, breads, olive oil, spices, herbs, meat, fish and seafood. I am sure that we have the best fish and seafood in the world. The spaces you create combine harmoniously with the food you prepare. How does your creative process work – how do you come up with a new concept? What comes first: the idea of a new dish or a space where the next restaurant will be located? What is the source of your inspiration: a new product, a location in the city, people?

Traditional Portuguese cuisine itself is a source of great inspiration for me. Despite the fact that all my restaurants have different concepts, you will see Portuguese influences more or less everywhere. The creative process is difficult, because

friends and our neighbors. I studied business communication in college but in the last year of my studies, my desire for cooking grew more and more. Once, I accidentally found myself in a professional kitchen, and I felt how my heart started to beat faster. This was the moment – when I felt such strong emotions, I realized that I had found my path.

Portugal is a truly unique country that managed to create a great empire despite its small size. It was able to be an equal player on a global scale. The history of the country says a lot about its people's mentality.

Does the national character influence traditional food?

PORTUGUESE CUISINE IS RICH AND VERSATILE. I AM VERY GRATEFUL TO ALL THOSE TRAVELERS AND NAVIGATORS WHO HAVE MADE OUR DISHES SO DIVERSE. OUR CUISINE HAS BASICALLY MERGED WITH THE AFRICAN AND ASIAN GASTRONOMICAL UNIVERSES.

many things have influenced me – the past, the present, my journeys, people and landscapes – all of these have left a mark on my inner world. At first, I worked out the whole project in considerable detail in my head and only afterwards did I begin to execute it.

This refers to both the concept of the restaurant and the dishes. The process mainly happens in my mind. When, for instance, I start preparing a new dish, it's already 90 % completed, and I refine only the small details. My inner demand to create something new – that drive comes from my passion for food and the desire to amaze others.

Can you tell us how you began to prepare food and when you decided to dedicate your life to this work?

When I look back to the past, I see that I had a very special attitude towards food from my childhood. To tell you the truth, this was more of a love to eat (laughs). I began preparing food at home when I was 7 years old. I baked and sold cookies with my sister. Our "victims" were mainly our family members, their

Portuguese cuisine is rich and versatile. I am very grateful to all those travelers and navigators who have made our dishes so diverse. Our cuisine has basically merged with the African and Asian gastronomical universes. Portugal also has a very diverse landscape, climatic conditions and land composition. Our country is interesting in geographical terms –it is not homogeneous. Northern Portugal is mountainous while the central and coastal areas are a mixture of dunes and pine forests, and southern Portugal, known as Alentejo, is a paradise for plants. Hence every region has its own product (cheese, ham, meat, fruits, vegetables, herbs) and due to that, a different cuisine. That is why we have such diversity. I like it because our cuisine reflects our openness towards the whole world. Also, it has the ability to absorb foreign ingredients and adapt them or prepare different dishes with the same products.

Travel, discovery and vigor - I would describe the Portuguese people with these three words. What words would you use to describe the Portuguese and local cuisine?

Tradition, quality, taste.

Food is a very important part of tradition and holds a special place in all cultures. What role does food play in Portugal; how do the people and you personally understand its significance?

We love to settle our affairs at the dinner table. Our entire social life revolves around the table. We love good food, and we love to eat – that’s why we appreciate good ingredients and demand that the food is of the highest quality.

© José Avillez

© José Avillez

You have created your own culinary empire and have already achieved a great deal of success – so much so that it’s probably impossible to achieve anything more at your age. Is there anything left to dream of? What are your goals now?

Naturally, I am a dreamer and I constantly think of different projects. Those new ideas give me new energy to break established frameworks and surpass the limits of regular potential. The process itself is more important for me – the experience – rather than the final result.

Can you please name three traditional dishes that you would recommend to a person who wants to travel to Portugal and fully appreciate your cuisine?

Traditional Portuguese cuisine has so many different ingredient and aromas that it makes choosing just three very difficult. This is what my list of favorite dishes looks like:

1 - Bulhão Pato clams - I love when fresh clams are perfectly mixed with top quality olive oil, garlic, coriander and lemon juice. It's a completely unique taste.

2 - Brás style codfish – Thinly-sliced codfish mixed with onions, grilled potatoes, eggs, coriander and olives. I especially love this dish because it brings me happy memories and takes me back to my childhood. This is why I always include my version of this dish in the menu, for example, at Café Lisboa.

3 - Pastel de Nata – Everybody tries this dessert when travelling to Portugal. It is seemingly simple: a tartlet of layered dough with vanilla crème. Pastel de Nata is best when served warm and sprinkled with cinnamon. I love this dessert so much that I created my best version of it and you can find it at Café Lisboa and Bairro do Avillez.

There is no pure culinary tradition protected from any outside influences. What do you think was the biggest influence on Portuguese cuisine?

As I already mentioned, the distinguishing aspect of our cuisine is the accomplishment of cultural exchange and the active role of the Portuguese during the Age of Discovery. That is why one can find many typical traits of African and Asian gastronomy in our cuisine. Whatever the case, we would not have all of these influences if it weren’t for our spirit of openness towards the world. The Portuguese created the first phenomenon of globalization. Our cuisine is a mirror in which our individualism is reflected.

NATURALLY, I AM A DREAMER AND I CONSTANTLY THINK OF DIFFERENT PROJECTS. THOSE NEW IDEAS GIVE ME NEW ENERGY TO BREAK ESTABLISHED FRAMEWORKS AND SURPASS THE LIMITS OF REGULAR POTENTIAL. THE PROCESS ITSELF IS MORE IMPORTANT FOR ME – THE EXPERIENCE – RATHER THAN THE FINAL RESULT.

© José Avillez

© José Avillez

BELCANTO

"Belcanto" is the first and only restaurant in Portugal to hold two Michelin stars. It is the crowning jewel of José Avillez’s culinary empire. It is located in Shiadu – a lively and prestigious district of Lisbon with a long history. The restaurant was opened as far back as 1958 by the national theater and was the home of country’s greatest poet, Fernando Pessoa.

CAFÉ LISBOA

"Café Lisboa" is located directly at the Lisbon National Opera Theater. This is an outstanding place and you should definitely visit it at least once while in Lisbon.

"Café Lisboa" has a full lunch menu and dinner menu and offers a choice of delicious desserts - including traditional Portuguese sweets perfected by Jose Avillez himself. There is nothing better than sitting on the "Café Lisboa " open terrace in good weather.

During the theatrical season, you can enjoy watching the

BECO CABARET GOURMET

"Beco" Cabaret is one of the most exciting creations of Jose Avillez. This cabaret, inspired by the American prohibition era, is hidden behind a mirrored wall in “Bairro do Avillez”. Along with the chef's best culinary creations, which are performances by themselves, your senses will be rejuvenated by this cabaret show. You need to buy

Open: every day 12pm-12am

Largo

But “Belcanto’s” new life began with Jose Avillez in 2012. Here all the chef’s ideas are elevated to the highest levels of sophistication. The restaurant gained its first Michelin star in its first year and its second in 2014.

Open: lunch – 12:30 pm -3 pm, dinner- 7 pm -11 pm; Closed on Sundays and Mondays.

Largo de São Carlos 10

PIZZARIA LISBOA

Even though it's an Italian restaurant and you may think that visiting it will be excessive when travelling to Portugal, you will be sorely mistaken.

The softest burrata and melted parmigiano over crunchy pizza, sophisticated rizotos and a great choice of home-made pastas promises bursts of aromas that you will struggle to find anywhere in Italy. Jose Avillez's father owned one of the first pizzerias in Portugal, and that is why Jose dreamed of

opening his own pizzeria in childhood. Today, the chef’s dream come true will become your culinary paradise.

Open: Monday-Friday –12:30pm -3pm, 7 pm-12 am; Saturday – 12.30 pm-12 am; Sunday – 12.30pm-11am.

a ticket in order to get into the cabaret. Dinner and the show will cost 95 EUR per person. The dinner price does not include drinks.

DINNER AND SHOW:

WEDNESDAY - SATURDAY –08:30 PM -10:45PM, NIGHT

SHOW: FRIDAY - SATURDAY –12:00 PM -12:50 AM; CLOSED ON SUNDAYS, MONDAYS AND TUESDAYS. YOU SHOULD MAKE RESERVATIONS IN ADVANCE.

crème de la crème of Lisbon society with a glass of champagne.

de São Carlos 23

R. Duques de Bragança 5H

R. Nova da Trindade 18

© Paulo Barata

© José Avillez

© Paulo Barata

© Paulo Barata

© Paulo Barata

THE "PASSPORT" OF PORTUGUESE CUISINE

The Mediterranean diet, the rations that UNESCO has included in its list of intangible monuments of cultural heritage, is the main feature of the "passport" of Portuguese cuisine.

This diet is based on fruits and vegetables; high-quality breads made from unprocessed (cracked) grains; dried or fresh legumes (beans, Turkish peas, chick-peas and others); dried fruit, raisins and oily crops (walnuts, almonds, chestnuts and other nuts); olive oil as the core type of fat; a variety of fish; and red meat, which has a secondary role in the diet.

In Portuguese cuisine, different kinds of fresh products are preferred in different seasons. They are sold in shops or in traditional markets. The agriculture produce reflects the harvesting rhythm and creates a plain and simple cuisine, where cooking rules are aimed at maintaining the nutritional value of foods included in the dish.

There are a variety of soups in Portuguese cuisine also; meat dishes – broths (cozidos), meat stewed over low heat (guisados), and meat stewed with vegetables (calendiradas), which preserves the anti-oxidative properties of the ingredients and contribute to a healthy life.

The Mediterranean diet is distinguished by moderate consumption of dairy products, use of aromatic herbs, and limited use of salt. According to this regime, wine is also consumed in moderation. It is only taken during the meal, and water is considered the main drink during the day.

Relationships and communications between people sitting at a dining table are the main feature of Mediterranean cuisine - this is a ritual, which gathers friends and relatives and is recognized as the main manifestation of hospitality.

You will find the best qualities of the Mediterranean diet in Portuguese cuisine: a range of food found in the sea or on land, including local endemic ingredients, as well as produce from distant lands, brought here during the time of great geographical discoveries.

The Portuguese diet clearly demonstrates the process of gathering and spreading gastronomic knowledge – a successful culinary relationship among different cultures and generations.

The harmonious interconnection of the different types of climate, landscape, culture and lifestyle, along with its widely stretched Atlantic coast, made Portugal the true homeland of the Mediterranean diet.

Comment FROM THE SARDINES AND WHAT HAS BECOME THE COUNTRY'S SYMBOL – SALTED COD – TO SOFT LOBSTERS AND SHRIMPS, PORTUGUESE SEAFOOD AND FISH ARE FLAWLESS.

Usually, the Portuguese eat three times a day: they have breakfast between 7 am and 10 am, often in a café near their homes. Traditionally, breakfast is light and consists of a drink (coffee or juice) and toast or a sandwich.

The Portuguese eat a more substantial meal in the afternoon and the evening. They have lunch from 12 pm to 2:30 pm in a café or a small restaurant near their job. Dinner time is from 7:30 pm to 10:30 pm.

A full Portuguese meal includes soup, a main dish and a dessert (sweets or fruit). Many have a snack between lunch and dinner (at about 5 pm) – a pastry with juice or another drink.

TENS OF RECIPES OF COD, AÇORDA (A BREAD SOUP), MIGAS (CHOPPED BREAD ROASTED IN OIL, GARLIC AND HERBS), MARINADE, RICE, STEWED BEANS, EGG-YOLK DESSERTS – TRADITIONAL PORTUGUESE CUISINE IS SURPRISINGLY RICH, AND EVEN THE MOST EXPERIENCED GOURMANDS ARE AMAZED BY IT.

SARDINHA

They have a special love for sardines in Portugal. Canned sardines are a common souvenir sold in traditional shops. You can find fried sardines in almost every restaurant's entrée menu. Small sardines fried in oil is a wonderful snack before dinner, paired with green wine.

BACALHAU

Dishes prepared from bacalhau (dried salted cod) are the foundation of Portuguese cuisine. You will encounter this fish everywhere and see it prepared in every possible way. Only in Portugal are there up to 1,000 known recipes of this fish. In many regions of Portugal, Bacalhau is prepared as a traditional Christmas dish.

TRIPAS À MODA DO PORTO

This dish - pig's intestines à la Porto – today is a culinary symbol of Porto. It has a long history. When the Portuguese King Henry was preparing a naval expedition, he asked the Porto locals to help supply the fleet with food. The Porto dwellers gave all the meat to the king, and were left only with pig intestines. The history of this dish began back then; today it is served with sausages, vegetables and beans, but the main ingredient is still the innards. Over time, the dish became so popular in Porto that locals are sometimes called "Triparas".

CALDEIRADA

This dish made from different varieties of fish and potatoes is also called fishermen’s soup. At least two varieties of fish are used in its preparation and there is no upper limit. This is explained by the fact that the fishermen were preparing food from what they had caught that day. It is similar to the French bouillabaisse. Fish is sometimes mixed with various sea foods: mollusks, shrimps and octopus. The fish mix is boiled and then potatoes, green peppers, tomatoes, coriander, bay leaves and black pepper are added. They also use Port wine, white wine or brandy. This soup is not salted because the seafood are already salty enough.

Strangely, this is the only fish in Portugal that they eat salted instead of fresh. This tradition has a long history related to Portuguese maritime history. This method of salting fish is Scandinavian and was created by the Norwegians.

Salted cod could withstand long journeys easily – this is why you can eat some version of it in any European harbor. Bacalhau is traditionally served with potatoes, onions and green wine.

Cod is particularly well-suited to salting because it has less fat, and fat prevents salted water getting inside the fish. Cod was cheap and so most sailors ate it. This 500-year-old tradition has left its mark not only on the Portuguese but also on the sailing traditions of the Normans, Bretons and English.

FRANCESINHA

If you are planning to try Francesinha - a typical Porto food - you should not eat anything that day before hand. This dish is so nutritious that not everyone can finish it. Imagine thick slices of white bread, and between them layered roasted pork, a variety of sausages, roast beef, all covered with a thick layer of melted cheese and topped with fried eggs. It is placed in tomatoes and beer sauce and served with fried potatoes. Francesinha was invented in Porto in 1960 as an analogue of the French croque-monsieur. To this day, the dish is the city’s calling card despite the fact that it is already very popular across Portugal.

LINGUIÇA

Before preparing it, the fish is chilled for 24 hours to remove any excess salt and return elasticity to the fish. The Catholic Church also helped the popularity of Bacalhau as they ate fish instead of meat when they fasted. In Portugal, you will find dozens of varieties of Bacalhau. Its selection is a separate ritual. The customer has the right to touch, smell and even taste the fish.

This dish is a type of smoked pork sausage popular in Portugal and Brazil. Traditionally, sausages and smoked sausages are used as components of others dishes in these countries. Linguiça is served with rice and beans or is used in other pork dishes. The Portuguese introduced this sausage to Brazil and Angola, where it is still popular. The most popular variety of Linguiça in Portugal is Calabresa. It is made with red pepper, which is its key difference from other Portuguese Linguica.

CALDO VERDE

This is a soup made from a type of green cabbage; it is usually prepared for special occasions. You will see it at weddings and baptisms, as well as on the Saint John’s holiday in Braga. The main ingredients are herbs and potatoes with garlic and onions. The soup is usually served with a variety of sausages. Smoked sausages are added to the soup at the end. Also, Caldo Verde is traditionally eaten with croutons made of Portuguese grain bread called Broa. Caldo Verde was invented in the Minho region. After that, this soup conquered not only the rest of Portugal but all Portuguese-speaking countries.

CARNE DE PORCO À ALENTEJANA

This traditional pork dish is a strange combination of meat and shellfish. It is prepared with potatoes and coriander and is one of the most popular dishes in Portugal. The meat is placed in a white wine marinade with paprika, garlic, coriander and bay leaf. The fried meat is combined with shellfish and then removed from the heat. The soft texture of the shellfish and pork create a strange and refined combination. The dish is served with fried or baked potatoes. The name of this dish is derived from its region - Alentejo. This is where they breed black Iberian pigs.

FEIJOADA

This is a traditional dish made from red beans, beef and pork. You will also find this dish anywhere where Portuguese sailors have set foot - for example, in Goa, India, Macau or Angola. The ways in which it is prepared may differ slightly but the main principle is the same. The name of the dish comes from feijão, which means beans in Portuguese. The beans are cooked in a clay pot over a low fire and then pork and beef is added to them. The history of this dish begins with the Roman Empire. The Romans spread the tradition of preparing legumes and meat together all across Europe. The dish is served with rice and smoked or regular sausages.

AMÊIJOAS À BULHÃO PATO

This Portuguese dish is named after Bulhão Pato, a 19th-century writer. Bulhão Pato was a famous gourmand, and shellfish prepared in white wine was his favorite dish. A similar dish is popular in Spain called fisherman’s style shellfish. There are a lot of variations on this dish, for example, one with onions and tomato paste added. Sometimes shellfish are prepared with paprika and carrots but the most traditional version uses white wine and garlic. Sometimes, in order to thicken the sauce, pieces of bread are added to it.

AÇORDA

Açorda is a typical Portuguese dish, which is nothing more than thinly sliced bread with garlic, coriander, olive oil and vinegar paste topped with a poached egg. Before serving the hot egg is sprayed with water so that the bread is softened. The homeland of this bread dish is the Alentejo region. Açorda is sometimes prepared with prawns and cream and Bacalhau.

AZEITÃO

Azeitão is a creamy cheese that is made in the town of Azeitão, near Lisbon. Unpasteurized sheep milk is used in its preparation. It is interesting that unlike other types of cheese, in order to sour the milk, flowers are used instead of an animal-based ferment. This is why Azeitão is especially popular among vegetarians. Until it is aged, this cheese is hard from the outside and has a creamy structure on the inside.

CABRA TRANSMONTANO

This is a very hard cheese made from goat’s milk in northern Portugal. Not all kinds of goat’s milk are suitable for making this cheese – the special Cabra, Serrana Negra's is required for it. These cheese is aged for at least 60 days and is often grated to sprinkle on other dishes.

EVORA DE L’ALENTEJO

This cheese comes in semisoft or hard varieties and is made from unpasteurized sheep’s milk. It has a creamy taste, is salty, and with aging, the specific sheep taste becomes more intense. There is a method of storing Evora in olive oil which is popular in Alenteju.

NISA

This is a hard cheese, which is also made from unpasteurized milk from the Saloio breed of sheep. A vegetable ferment is also used in its preparation. Milk from Saloio sheep is distinguished by its high quality. This cheese has grass and citrus aromas.

PICO

This cheese is either made entirely from cow's milk, or with a little goat’s milk too. It is made on Pico Island, which is one of the Azores Islands. This yellow cheese is hard on the outside but soft and creamy on the inside. Pico is distinguished by its very strong smell.

The Portuguese love desserts very much; hundreds of confectionery shop window displays are full of orderly lines of sugary treats. Almost every dessert is richly packed with yellow crème made from egg yolks. Such diversity of desserts is understandable if you remember that the Portuguese colonies produced this exquisite product in abundance while local cooks were always well supplied with cloves, cinnamon, vanilla and other spices thanks to the trade routes.

The extreme love for eggs has a logical explanation: monks who prepared delicacies in monasteries scattered throughout Portuguese territory mixed local and imported ingredients. The tender attitude towards the egg is one of their merits. The monasteries had variety of uses for egg whites so they needed to find different ways to store and use the remaining egg yolks. They used sugar powder for preservation, and then used the eggs to prepare desserts.

PASTEL DE FEIJÃO

PASTEL DE NATA

One of the most famous cakes in Portugal is made as a rich vanilla crème with a caramelized top placed in a layered dough tartlet. Pastel de Nata is very similar to Pastel de Belem and you can try it in many places in Lisbon. The dough should be very crunchy and the filling very creamy.

SERICAIA

Sericaia is a traditional Portuguese egg pudding. Its creation is also connected with a monastery. Traditionally, eggs are the main ingredient but in this case the whites are used along with the yolks, which makes this dessert more airy. The pudding is topped with Alentejo’s famous plums.

BOLO DE MEL DA MADEIRA

Bolo de Mel da Madeira is a dark cake with aromas of honey, hazelnuts, anise, cloves and cinnamon. It is considered to be the oldest dessert made on the island of Madeira and is over 600 years old.

According to tradition, you should break this cake up by hand instead of cutting it with a knife.

TORTA DE AZEITÃO

Torta de Azeitão is a creamy roll made yet again from egg yolks. Its creation is attributed to Manuel Rodriguez.

This blind man achieved great success and fame thanks to this soft creamy roll.

Pastel de Feijão is probably one of the strangest Portuguese desserts. It is known as a bean cake and is made of white boiled beans and almonds. It is hard to know what Joaquina Rodriguez from Torres was thinking in the late 19th century when she invented it.

TRAVESSEIRO DE SINTRA

Travesseiro de Sintra can be translated as "Sintra’s pillow", which presumably suggests that you should think of this dessert even in your dreams.

The cake is shaped like a pillow and is made with almond and egg crème. It was created in 1862 in Casa Piriquita –a bakery in the city of Sintra.

According to legend, they found the recipe in an old culinary book, improved it, and added a secret ingredient.

PUDIM ABADE DE PRISCOS

Manuel Joaquim Machado

Rebelo, the Abbott of Prisco parish, is considered to be the greatest Portuguese chef of the 19th century.

TOUCINHO DO CÉU

Using melted ham fat to prepare Portuguese desserts is not uncommon.

Toucinho do Céu is one such dessert; its name literally means "the ham from paradise".

The nuns of Santa Clara monastery created it in the 18th century. The grounded almonds added to the dessert gives it its distinctive structure.

Lemon and cinnamon flavours balance the dessert’s sweetness.

It is known that the Abbott indulged the royal family with unique feasts. His pudding, famous for its velvety structure, contained melted ham fat.

It is not clear how he managed to hide the taste of ham in his dessert. If you have heard nothing about its recipe, when tasting this creamy dessert you will only recognize Port wine, cinnamon, citrus and egg yolk.

LICOR BEIRÃO

Licor Beirão is a Portuguese liqueur – its recipe is a trade secret.

The owner, J. Carranca Redondo, has only ever revealed one thing: that the liqueur is made through double distil-

lation of herbs and their seeds. The herbs originate from different parts of the world, including Malaysia, Brazil and Thailand.

This delicious and popular Portuguese beverage is made in the Lousa mountains from 12 different herbs with medical properties as well as distinctive aromas, including eucalyptus, cinnamon and rosemary.

The liquor was first created in the nineteenth century as a medical treatment in the pharmaceutical company of Lousa. It was used for abdominal pain but today it is one of the region’s most popular alcoholic beverages.

AGUARDENTE PORTUGUESA

AZORES

Azores are famous for its diverse aromatic palette. The most delicious Azores are made with dewberry (amora) and maracuja (maracujá) aromas, although pineapple, banana and milk varieties are also very popular (milk liqueur may not sound very appetizing, but it is amazingly delicious). The orange liquor is very popular in mainland Portugal, which truly is a summer drink.

VINHO VERDE

The name "green wine" is associated with the popular color of the Minho province where it is produced. It also refers to its acidity, which is the property of the immature green grapes. Red or white, this wine is distinguished by its amazing lightness and freshness. It is best paired with fish and seafood, which can be found in abundance on the Portuguese coast.

White wines are more popular – a drink with a fresh texture and a distinctive aroma which will bring you great pleasure. You should have it on a hot summer’s afternoon as an aperitif with a salad or light meal.

GINJA DE ÓBIDOS

Affectionately called ginjinha, this is a very popular alcoholic beverage made of sour cherries softened in their own juice. Ginja flows endlessly on the feast of St Anthony. Some small historical bars do not even carry any other drinks. You can buy a small cup at a street booth.

You can find Ginja de Óbidos, often called ginjinha, in any traditional Portuguese food and beverage store. They will also serve it to you in small bars. This red drink gets its excellent color from the sour cherries it is made from, and is often served in small chocolate glasses. Sweet and delicious ginjinha is an ideal drink at night.

Aguardente is one of the strongest drinks with 3556% alcohol content. This is a kind of Portuguese brandy or schnapps. The best Aguardente has a refined taste and is reminiscent of a cognac. If you like strong drinks, make sure to try Aguardente. There are several varieties of this drink, for example, Aguardente vínica is created by distilling a good or low quality wine. After aging, it is turned into guardente velha (old, burning water).

Aguardente bagaceira is made from the pips of

the grapes that remain after the harvest and has 50-80% alcohol content.

Café com Cheirinho is a mix of this drink and espresso it is also referred to as café com música (coffee with music).

ROASTED CHESTNUT LIQUEUR

Clarinha is a type of Portuguese chestnut that grows in the Alentejo highlands. This chestnut is small and very sweet.

This liquor, made from brandy, sugar and chestnuts, includes Clarinha ashes.

Vinho Verde vineyards are mostly concentrated in the river valleys and are influenced by the climate near the Atlantic Ocean. In the pursuit of solar rays, the vines grow on trees, climb fences and crawl into wheat fields.

Vinho Verde was being in Portugal as far back as the 13th century. Today, this wine makes up 25 percent of the country's production.

The green wine-producing Minho province is one of the oldest winemaking regions in the country.

THE MANLY WINE THAT DOESN’T LIKE TO TRAVEL

In my youth, only Russians drank port wine. They drank it for the sole fact that it was the cheapest wine produced in the Soviet Union and it got you intoxicated faster.

At that time, the most popular brand of Soviet port wine was the so-called "Three Sevens", which was referred to as "the three axes" (for the likeness of the number 7 to an axe). One of my

Russian acquaintances, a frequent consumer of this brand, called it "the three sixes". "It's not a wine, but an evil beast that consumes you from the inside", he used to say, and gazed frightened at a dark amber-colored liquid poured into a faceted glass.

Then he would gulp it down, his face would change, and I knew that he would be happy until the next morn-

ing. "Taste it”, he used to say to me sometimes, “it’s like an ugly woman that you still love for some strange reason!” Only once did he convince me –I tried it and then read him a long lecture about Georgian wine.

"Ah, Georgian wine!” he sighed. "There is not enough Georgian wine to satisfy all Russians; our fate is a vodka and the three axes, my friend!" Then he looked at

KAKHA TOLORDAVA

me with suspicion and asked:" Do you know even one Georgian who drinks port wine?" “No”, I replied. I did not lie.In short, we Georgians did not drink port wine because it was considered to be a "drunkard’s" drink, who drank it because Soviet port wine was a well-fortified cheap wine. But one thing united us both: no actual knowledge of what port wine really was. That is why some used to call port wine the “this disgusting Russian thing”.

That was probably the time when the famous Russian saying appeared: "I will tell everyone that you mix vodka with port wine!" As you will find out below, this saying was completely meaningless in reference to port wine. It appeared in everyday speech from a complete ignorance of the matter and for a long time was used to ridicule those who dishonored vodka.

In short, this is where the completely unjustified reputation that preceded this very worthy, and not in fact Russian but Portuguese, wine came from. Though, on the other hand, due to the continuous consumption of a low-quality version of this notable beverage, Russia switched faster to the high-quality version, when for many of us it still remains something quite un-

familiar. Do you know any Georgians who consume port wine?

Port wine – a wine made of grapes gathered on the slopes of the Douro Valley in Portugal – is a unique phenomenon born of the conflict between two countries. In 1667, by the decree of Jean-Baptiste Colbert, Louis XVI's minister of finances, France barred the import of English goods to France.

In response, Charles II, the Stewart king of England, Scotland and Ireland at

that time, put an embargo on French wines in England.

England was left without French wine and while looking for a substitute approached one of its most trusted partners - Portugal. Many English merchants were living there at that time; the relationship between these two countries was on the same level, beginning with the Treaty of Windsor in 1386.

The process of replacing French wines with Portuguese ones was initiated by

the English and Portuguese merchants who lived in Viana do Castelo, but one must mention that this process had started long before that – the "wine route" from Portugal to England had existed since the Treaty of Windsor but the simple Portuguese wines could not compete with the more expensive, complex and rich French wines.

Therefore, as they knew the tastes of Englishmen, the merchants from Viana do Castelo decided to move to the Douru Valley and offer the English more full-bodied wines from that area.

This did not turn out to be an easy task as they had to transport the wine from the Douru Valley to Viana do Castelo

and then to England; the Douru Valley wine turned out to be very troublesome – it did not take to travel well. As a result, the merchants “bended” the "wine route" a little bit to the south and moved to Oporto ot Porto, a town at the mouth of the Atlante Ocean at one of the Douru shorelines.

This is how this city became the center of the wine trade and exports. It also gave its name to the wine of the Douru Valley, port wine – the wine of Porto.

A wine that resisted travel needed to be tamed. It is not known today who had the idea to add the wine spirit to the wine that was prepared for travelling. Different sources tell different

stories, but the fact is that it happened and such unexpected interference in the natural fermentation process gave Douru wine enough endurance to travel but also enriched its bouquet, made it thicker, increased its alcohol content, and turned it into a completely unique product.

History has not retained the names of those Englishmen who were the first to try the Douru fortified wines, but the fact is that the whole of England loved it so much that to this day the English army and navy toast the Queen with port wine. Aside from the above, this artificial meddling added another property to port – great potential for aging.

The time required to establish port wine’s reputation moved slowly but to its benefit. Until 1756, port wine was made using the old technology, but it took 100 years for port to reach its current level of quality, and during this time many educated people, ensured of port’s exclusivity, have “wandered” into its “scope of vision”.

In the opinion of the Portuguese, Joseph James Forester – an English merchant and wine exporter – was one of the most important figures in achieving port wine’s refinement. He arrived in Portugal in 1831 and in his first 12 years there, managed to create a detailed map of the Douru Valley, wrote a

number of important texts on improving the navigation of port wine, anonymously published a pamphlet against those who didn’t prepare it well, and did it all so well that Fernando II, the Portuguese king, awarded him the title of baron.

Donna Antonia Adelaide Fereira (18111896) was the second important port wine enthusiast – a woman who traveled to England to learn how to save, preserve and refine the grape varieties growing on the Douru gorges and returned her knowledge to the Douru valley.

The locals praised her and served her so faithfully that after her death, 30 perfectly upkept vineyards remained for this variety of wine. To this day, she remains one of the most important promoters of port wine as well as the most influential figure in its history.

This wine has had many such loyal supporters since than – professionals and enthusiasts who have taken care of its growth and quality for centuries, and with whose support port wine first moved into airlocked wooden barrels, and then to glass vessels and cisterns, each time presenting itself in a new way to consumers.

The process of creating port wine is one of the most strictly controlled processes in the history of wine and its di-

versity and numerous varieties is very impressive.

"Port wine land" is an enormous and rich territory! Port can be white (branco), red (rubi), golden (tawny), pink (rosé); dry, lightly dry, extra dry; sweet, semi-sweet, with a residue and many others. It can also be aged in bottles, barrels or cisterns, and stored in those vessels for 10, 20, 30, 40 or more years.

All of these wines tell different tales to consumers, but in any case, the crown of it all is vintage port wines. This is a world of its own.

It is impossible to thoroughly study such diversity by just reading various texts about this wine. Port wine, as well as any other wine, likes when you talk to it face-to-face – that is when it reveals its true nature and character and there is nothing better than visiting "port wine land" to experience its qualities, especially when you know all its long and winding “stories”. It is hard to imagine Portugal without port wine –all of the Portuguese people will attest to that.

If you have a chance, raise your first glass while travelling in Portugal, consider yourself very lucky, as port is a hospitable and courageous wine, and even though it is unique anywhere you encounter it, it is still incomparable within its own territory.

PORTO

SEA GATE OF PORTUGAL

The city of Porto, founded by the Romans, is famous for its wines, which became popular in England after the Treaty of Methuen in 1703. It later benefited greatly from being the main port of the centuries-old empire. The glossy interior space of the baroque-style Golden Temple of Francisco is proof enough. Thanks to its strategic location, the city became an important industrial center in the XVIII-XIX centuries.

Today, Porto, the richest city in Portugal, is returning to its old significance. The city, which gave the country its name, holds the title of the capital of winemaking and is Lisbon's ambitious rival. In recent years, it has become a national as well as a European center of gastronomy and design. That is why we can equally recommend visiting Porto to the lovers of antiquities, port wine and Fado, and to those who enjoy modern architecture and design.

Until recently, people only visited this picturesque settlement in the foggy valley of the Douro River to taste good wine, explore the Serralves Museum, or attend football matches. Holidaymakers were more attracted to the beaches of the Algarve, the Lisbon hills, and the frothy waves along the coast. However, a few years ago, the city suddenly transformed, discovered new creative potential, and successfully overcame its

economic difficulties (Portugal, as well as Italy, Ireland, Greece and Spain, suffered a great deal during the global recession). It is strange, but these tough challenges helped keep Porto's colorful narrow streets the way they were before.

Today, in this relaxed city, many new comfortable hotels have been opened in medieval buildings, and it has been put on the map of the world's best gastronomic places due to its delicious cuisine, leading clubs and bars, and democratic prices.

"Lisbon is just a smoke, and in Porto they work" - this expression accurately reflects the competition between the two "capital cities" – the sunny capital of the Tegus River and the foggy city of the Douro River of merchants and industries. Inhabitants of Porto are convinced that Porto is an intellectual and creative center and a cradle of freedom.

You will personally see why the inhabitants of Porto are justified in this claim.

SÉ CATEDRAL DO PORTO

Portugal's main cathedral, Sé do Porto, is located at the highest point of the city, so the pavilion on the side of the building is one of the best for viewing Porto.

This Roman Catholic cathedral was built in the XII century. The 17th-century chancel, designed by Portuguese masters, is outstanding. There is also a beautiful inner courtyard decorated with traditional tiles.

The temple and viewing point are free to visit; a visit to the interior yard and the museum costs 3 €. Open: 9 am -12:30 am, 2:30 pm-7 pm.

Terreiro da Sé

PONTE MARIA PIA

The city of Porto is built along the banks of the Douro River. It was decided in the 1870s that the two banks should be connected by a railway bridge. Gustave Eiffel won the contract for the project.

The netlike bridge, named after the wife of King Luis I, Maria Savoy, was an architectural masterpiece of the times. It is 160 meters long and 60 meters high.

PONTE LUIS I

RIBEIRA

The most colorful district of Porto is located along the shores of the Douro River. It is on the UNESCO heritage list. Many houses in Ribeiro are 300 years old and people still live in them. There are lots of tilted stairs, narrow streets, taverns, small restaurants and bars where you will be offered traditional Portuguese fishermen’s food.

The distinctive symbol of Porto is one of the world’s most beautiful bridges, Ponte Luis I, named after the famous Portuguese king. The bridge is simultaneously a pedestrian, car and railway bridge.The construction project was completed by Gustave Eiffel’s student, the Belgian engineer Theophile Seyrig. It connects the Ribeiro district with Villa Nova and Villa Nova de Gaia, which are located on the other side of the river. The bridge was opened in 1886 and comprises two levels. The first is 392 meters long and the second 174 km long. The latter is decorated with a huge metal arch. Approximately 3,000 tons of iron were used to build the bridge.

PORTO HAS THE MOST BRIDGES OF ANY CITY IN EUROPE –SIX BRIDGES CROSS THE DOURO RIVER.

IGREJA E TORRE DOS CLÉRIGOS

The tower of Clerigos is one of the most famous symbols of Porto. As a cathedral, it can be seen from everywhere in the city. For hundreds of years, this building represented a landmark for vessels arriving in Porto from the Atlantic.

IGREJA DE SAO FRANCISCO

Members of the order of St Francis of Assisi had appeared in Porto by the XIII century. They immediately started building their own church. The works ended in the XV century and the outside facade of the building has not changed since. This church is a vivid example of Portuguese Gothic style.

IGREJA DO CARMO AND IGREJA DOS CARMELITAS IS A TWIN CHURCH LOCATED IN ONE BUILDING AND DIVIDED BY A ONE-METER WIDE HOUSE, AS IN THE 18TH CENTURY IT WAS FORBIDDEN FOR CHURCHES TO HAVE A COMMON WALL.

PALÁCIO DA BOLSA

The market palace was part of an XIII-century church. During the Portuguese civil war in 1832, fire destroyed the galleries of the monastery; however, the church remained untouched. In 1841, Queen Maria II gave parts of the burnt monastery to merchants for a commercial association.

The central so-called nations yard is covered by an eight-pointed glass dome. The lower part is decorated with coats of arms of the nations that Portugal had commercial relationships with in the XIX century. The Arabic Hall is the most impressive place in the palace. It is decorated in an exotic neo-Mauritanian style. Gustave Eiffel's working room is displayed here. Open every day– 9am-6.30pm

UNLIKE LISBON, THE 1755 EARTHQUAKE DID NOT AFFECT PORTO. HENCE, OLDER ARCHITECTURE IS BETTER PRESERVED HERE. THE BAROQUESTYLE CHURCHES OF THE ORATORIANS (IGREJA SANTO ANTÓNIO DOS CONGREGADOS, RUA SÁ DA BANDEIRA, 11), IGREJA DO CARMO (RUA CARMO) AND CARMELITES ARE DECORATED WITH WHOLE PANELS OF COBALT-COATED TILES (AZULEJOS) AND WITH GOLDEN ORNAMENTS INSIDE. IT IS BELIEVED THAT TILE TECHNOLOGY WAS BROUGHT BY KING MANUEL I FROM SPAIN IN THE XVI CENTURY.

A CAPELA DAS ALMAS

PAÇO EPISCOPAL

The former residence of Porto’s bishops is located on an elevated site near the cathedral. The building is a clear example of how the late Baroque and Rococo styles were used in the city’s architecture.

The house of the bishop was apparently built around the XII-XIII centuries. In 1387, it hosted the wedding of King Joao I to Philippa of Lancaster.

Open 9am-1pm, 2pm-6pm, closed on Wednesdays and Sundays

Terreiro da Sé, 4050-573 Porto

This small church from the XVIII century is not distinguishable from its surrounding landscape. It was renovated with azulejo tiles in 1929. Since then, the building has become a special sightseeing place. No other building is decorated with so many beautiful blue and white tiles. Numerous historic and mythological scenes are depicted on them.

Rua de Santa Catarina 428

R. de Ferreira Borges

R. de São Filipe de Nery

Rua do Infante D. Henrique

PRAÇA DA LIBERDADE

Near the old city, next to the mediaeval curved streets, at the turn of the XIX-XX centuries, new bourgeois districts emerged with banks and grand hotels. At the center of these districts is Freedom Square (Praça da Liberdade).

The most beautiful administrative building in the city – a neo-Baroque construction is located here – decorated with a 70-meter tower.

FUNDAÇÃO DE SERRALVES

The Serralves Foundation offers a beautiful park and art deco villa to visitors, representing the work of Jose Marques da Silva.

The modern art museum is also located nearby. It was built by the living symbol of Porto and winner of the Pritzker Price – the famous architect Alvaro Siza Vieira.

TRAM

The first tram appeared in Porto in 1872 during the “tram” period. The wagons were carried by donkeys, instead of horses, who faithfully served the public transport until 1904 when the trams started to run on steam engines and then electricity.

Later, many routes of this expensive means of transportation were canceled.

SÃO BENTO

For thousands of years, Porto, as implied by its name, was primarily a port. However, one hundred years ago, a new land transportation center - San Bento railway station - was built in the city.

The architect Jose Marques da Silva chose the method of the French Beux-Arts to decorate the building, although the main hall is decorated using azulejo tiles depicting historic scenes.

Praça de Almeida Garrett

CASA DA MÚSICA

Porto’s symphony orchestra has a beautiful residence known as Music House designed by the successful Dutch architect, Rem Koolhaas. The asymmetric building, one side of which seems to be buried in the ground, has two halls, a small hall and a larger auditorium. The big hall can host 1,300 spectators. It has two huge stained-glass windows, the curved surfaces of which enhance the sound.

Avenida da Boavista 604-610

MERCADO DO BOLHÃO

Mercado do Bolhao is the biggest market in the city; it turned one hundred years old in 2014.

The historic neoclassic building is comprised of two levels.

Fresh fish, seafood, farmers’ produce and other foods are sold here. Visiting the market to eat the best fish is a very wise decision.

R. Formosa 214

In the XXI century, the trams returned to the city streets. Buses and a newly-built subway operate in Porto but the trams are respected in a different way.

It only has three lines but taking a tram in the city center or along the bank of the Douro is very pleasant, and is also the fastest mode of travel.

A RARE TOURISTIC ATTRACTION, ALL OF THE TRAM WAGONS ARE OLD, HAVING BEEN BUILT IN THE 1920S OR 1930S. TO LEARN MORE, VISITORS CAN VISIT THE TRAM MUSEUM – MUSEU DO CARRO ELÉCTRICO (ALAMEDA BASÍLIO TELES, 51).

Rua Dom João de Castro 210

VILA NOVA DE GAIA

THE CITY OF VILA NOVA DE GAIA IS LOCATED ON THE OPPOSITE SITE OF THE DOURO RIVER ON THE LEFT BANK. THE FAMOUS PORT WINE IS ACTUALLY STORED THERE RATHER THAN IN PORTO, AS IS OFTEN ASSUMED.

MOSTEIRO DA SERRA DO PILAR

This monastery that belonged to Saint Augustine is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. There is an interesting building inside the monastery - a round church, which is the exact copy of the Saint Mary church in Rome. It was built in 1538 during the reign of King John III. During this period, Portugal was occupied by its neighbor Spain, and the Spanish called it Virgin Mary in Pillar. In 1832, during the siege of Porto, the monastery was turned into an improvised fortress. At the beginning of

the XX century, army barracks were located there. Today, it hosts Sera du Pillar’s artillery regiment. There is a wonderful Miradoro from which you can see beautiful views of Porto and the River Douro.

Largo de Avis _ Santa Marinha

SANDY COASTS RUN NORTH AND SOUTH OF THE DOURO RIVER. IN THE SUMMER, YOU CAN STAY IN THE CITY AND GO TO THE BEACH BY CAR OR BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT.

Praia de Lavadores - Via Nova De Gaia is one of the best sandy beaches where you can also find sand dunes.

Most of the Blue Flags that signify high standards and quality are located here. This is a one km long sandy beach with wooden esplanadas. There are numerous cafes and restaurants. From the restaurants, you can enjoy wonderful views of the Atlantic.

These beaches are essentially located inside Porto as Foz is part of Porto. Along the beaches you will find Foz’s best shops, restaurants and bars.

PORT WINE

Porto is the home of port wine and the companies that make this excellent beverage. The main manufacturers are Calem, Sandeman, Cockburn, W.&J.

RABELO

Rabelos were traditional cargo ships that were used to transport port wine from Vila Nova de Gaia to Porto. Today, they are used for tours, which offer you the best views of the six bridges of Porto and the storage areas for the Port wine.

The Graham wineries and others like them are located along the coastline. Port wine is sweet and strong (18-200). It is only made from grapes that grow in the Douro River valley. Porto is built where the River Douro meets the Atlantic Ocean. This is the place where Port wine became familiar to the rest of the world.

If you plan a tour in the city of Port wine, you will get to know how this drink is different from wine, as well as the distinctive methods used to make it.

Distance from Porto is 6 km.

The Praia Da Luz, Praia Do Molhe and Praia De Gondarém beaches are located in Foz, along the Avenida Brasil, at the mouth of the River Douro.

GOLF

The establishment of golf in Porto is very much related to the English community, which created the first golf club in Espino in the XIX century. Today there are famous golf courses of different difficulties located in Porto and Northern Portugal.

The Estela Golf Club was established in 1989. The 72-point pitch has 4 ten shot holes and 5 four shot holes. The specially cut grass guarantees a quick and pleasant game.

Lugar Rio Alto, Estela distance from Porto: 54 km

Praia Da Luz is a beach with huge rocks that is especially popular in summer. There are a number of esplanades where you will want to relax and watch the sunset. Most importantly, the best night clubs are located here.

The distance from the center of Porto is 8 km.

Oporto Golf Club

This is the oldest golf club in the area, having been established by English port wine producers in 1890. It has a 71-point pitch, four shot 3 holes, 11 shot 4 holes and three shot 5 holes.

Dress code: traditional golf attire. A handicap certificate is mandatory.

Paramos, Espinho –distance from Porto: 21 km

The cruise starts from Ribeiro and ends at the embouchure of Douro and the Atlantic Ocean.

THE YEATMAN HOTEL

This hotel is well-known among wine lovers the world over as it has an impressive collection of the finest Portuguese wines. Degustation and master classes are held here often.

Eighty-two individually decorated rooms and suites have their own small terrace looking out at Ribeiro.

Traditional Portuguese ceramic décor and wine-themed books make the hotel unique. Two Michelin star restaurants are located nearby where Chef Ricardo Costa offers regional and sea food dishes.

The hotel has both outdoor and indoor swimming pools. Pets are permitted.

Standard room price starts at 250 Euros

Rua do Choupelo, 4400-088 Vila Nova de Gaia

wooden stairs and some rooms have retro-style baths. Traditional Portuguese design elements are also used in the interior. The hotel’s 41 rooms are of different styles and sizes; however, all of them are comfortable and spacious.

The hotel restaurant, Galleria do Largo, is located on the first floor and also has its own terrace. Here you can taste Porto’s famous dish, Tripas à Moda do Porto.

PESTANA PALÁCIO DO FREIXO – POUSADA

Located 3 km from the city center, Pestana Palácio do Freixo has been acknowledged as a national monument. It is a unique example of the Baroque style with green space and gardens spread across 10,000 square meters. The hotel has 87 comfortable rooms and suites overlooking the Douro River.

PORTO A.S. 1829 HOTEL

Boutique Hotel

This hotel is located in one of Europe’s oldest stationary shops, the Araujo & Sobrinho building, which was built in 1829. There is a shop in the hall of the hotel even today. To honor the history of the building, the printing industry theme is evident in the hotel’s decor, including old printing machines, photos of the shop and wooden tools. Red carpet covers the

1872 RIVER HOUSE

This cozy hotel is located in the popular district of Ribeiro on the bank of the Douro River. It is very close to most of the town’s attractions.

From the hotel, you can walk to Palácio da Bolsa and Igreja Monumento de São

The price for a standard room starts from 88 euros and 108 euros in peak season.

Largo de São Domingos 50

In the hotel’s restaurant, you will experience a truly gastronomic adventure through its sea food. Bar Nason offers a comfortable space full of regional wines, unique cocktails and wonderful views.

In the Magic Spa, you will be offered rejuvenating face and body procedures, a swimming pool, a sauna and a Turkish bath. The hotel’s roof-top pool as well as the pool in the garden are perfect places to relax. The hotel has a hall with mirrors where jazz nights are held. One of the halls contains the remains of one of the town’s oldest frescos. If you are traveling in Porto with a child, this is an ideal place to stay.

Prices for a standard room start at 150 euros.

Rua da Estrada Nacional 108

Francisco. 1872 River House is known for its comfort and it is continuously maintaining this characteristic. Its eight rooms exhibit coziness, peacefulness and varied decor.

The price for a standard room starts at 108 euros.

Rua do Infante D. Henrique 133

MAJESTIC CAFÉ

The shopping street Santa Catarina is one of the liveliest streets in Porto. The flow of pedestrians never stops here but it is so quiet in Café Majestic that it is as if the 21st century decided to stay at the doorstep. This opulent cafe has astonished everyone who has passed by it since 1921 with the scent of vanilla and freshly baked buns. Initially, the cafe was named “Elite”, which was later changed to “Elite Majestic”. Designed according to the popular Art Nouveau movement in Paris, it soon gained a name as a gathering place for Porto’s elite.

J. K. ROWLING SPENT A NUMBER OF HOURS IN THIS EXACT CAFE WHEN SHE WAS WORKING ON HER FIRST BOOK OF THE HARRY POTTER SERIES.

During different periods, the café has been visited by the poets Jose Reijo and Antonio Nobre, the philosopher Leonardo Coimbra, the sculptor Jose Rodriguez, and the artists Alves Armando, Angelo de Sousa and Jorje Pinero.

You can still eat a traditional or continental breakfast and partake in the British-Portuguese tradition of 5 o’clock tea.

Rua Santa Catarina 112

A PÉROLA DO BOLHÃO

You will find many attractions from the world of Portuguese cuisine at this shop – from marinated sardines to local cheeses.

Behind its ornamented, art nouveau facade, you will find a real encyclopedia of Portuguese products and see wines with fruity aromas, salty cheeses, smoked sausages and bacalhau. You definitely need to buy the best souvenir from

Open everyday 09:30 am -7:30 pm; Saturday until 1pm; closed Sundays.

R. Formosa 279

LIVRARIA LELLO

The Portuguese claim that the book store located in Porto, bearing a song-like name Livraria Lello, is the most beautiful book shop in the world.

Livraria Lello attracts attention due to its exquisite, wooden interior, beautiful staircase and trolley for book distribution, although the range of books on offer is also excellent.

The shop was opened in 1869 and is one of the oldest in Porto. Even though today, it is necessary to buy a ticket to enter Livreria Lello, not many people leave the shop without a book.

A ticket costs 4 euros but it is a kind of voucher as the cost is subtracted from any book you purchase.

Livreria Lello inspired J.K. Rowling when she was writing her Harry Potter series, hence you will find many

Harry Potter books on the shelves. The shop is exquisite not only because of the amount of books it sells but also because of the architecture of the building and its interior design.

It consists of two floors. The impressive staircase leads us to the second floor, and the roof of the building features stunning stained glass.

Open: Monday to Friday 10 am-7:30 pm; weekend 10 am-9 pm.

R. das Carmelitas 144

Porto – beautifully packaged canned sardines.

TRAÇA Portuguese Dishes

AN AMAZING PLACE FOR LUNCH, WITH AFFORDABLE, AUTHENTIC PORTUGUESE DISHES AND ART NOUVEAU DECOR.

The largo São Domingos square is Porto’s culinary Mecca, and Traca is the first of its apostles. It created its own concept in the city – a perfect combination of Iberian snacks and huge pieces of cow meat.

Definitely order foie gras with caramelized apple, deer carpaccio or octopus. Dinner will cost you around 50 euros for two persons with wine.

Open: Monday to Thursday – 12 pm – 3 pm and 5 pm- 11 pm, Friday-Saturday 7:30 pm – 1 am.

Largo São Domingos 88

BARÃO FLADGATE Fish Dishes

Located in the port of Taylor, in between the wineries, Barão Fladgate is a very popular restaurant. You can eat delicious food on the terrace during the warm days and nights of summer, enjoy the Douro River and beautiful views of Porto, and walk through its fragrant garden.

The menu consists of typical Portuguese delicacies such as roasted kid, lamb, duck, salted cod, octopus and marine ridge (karas). The inner dining area is traditional and elegant with granite walls and huge windows.

Dinner for two with wine will cost you 60 euros. Open every day – 12:30 pm-3 pm; 7:30 pm -10:30 pm

Rua do Choupelo 250, Vila Nova de Gaia

CANTINA 32 Bistro

There are two rules in Cantina 32. Don’t refuse the bread and order a cheesecake. Start with warm white bread that you can dip in a banana butter. Later, definitely taste the octopus, and also try the Portuguese mushrooms with tomato and cheese. There is a big selection of wines on offer in this bistro. Fish and sea food dishes go extremely well with the dry white wine Quinta de Santiago Alvarinho, Vinho Verde. The industrial interior of the bistro with its glass ceiling and Edison lights create a unique atmosphere. It is necessary to make your reservation in advance. Dinner for two with a glass of wine will cost you 50 euros.

CHEESECAKE IS A FAMOUS DESSERT AT CANTINA 32, WHICH IS UNTRADITIONALLY SERVED IN A CLAY POT. MINT LEAVES DECORATE THE FLUFFY AND CRUNCHY SURFACE AND THEREFORE EACH CHEESECAKE LOOKS LIKE A FLOWER POT. UNDERNEATH THE BISCUIT, YOU WILL FIND A GENTLE CHEESECAKE WITH MELTED LAYERS OF CARAMEL. THE GENTLE STRUCTURE OF THE CHEESECAKE WITH ITS BANANA AROMA, THE SWEETNESS OF THE CARAMEL AND THE CRUNCHY BISCUIT LAYER CREATES AN IDEAL DESERT.

Open: Monday to Saturday - 12:30 pm3 pm; 6:30 pm -11 pm

R. das Flores, 32

MERCADOR CAFÉ Breakfast and Brunch

This is an ideal place for breakfast and snacks. It is located in one of the most beautiful streets of Porto, Rua das Flores. Homemade cakes and pastries are displayed in the shop windows, and toasties or lunches based on traditional recipes are available all day and are delicious. The long interior with displays full of wines, decorative items from different countries and vintage glamour has an almost Parisian atmosphere, and the kitchen located behind a sheet of colored glass creates a special sense of coziness.

Toasts from – 4.80€; open: everyday – 08:30 am - 8 pm

R. das Flores 180

CHOCOLATARIA EQUADOR

The relationship between Portugal and Chocolate started when Christopher Columbus first saw cocoa seeds in 1502.

You can taste handmade, distinctive flavors and truffles presented in vintage packaging and chocolate tiles at Chocolateria Equador.

I recommend you taste chocolate with port wine, red paprika, ginger and berries.

Open: Monday to Saturday 11 am- 7:30 pm, price from 3 euros

Rua das Flores 298

CASA DE CHÁ DA BOA NOVA

This restaurant, offering contemporary Portuguese cuisine at the edge of Porto, near the Atlantic Ocean, was built as a small tea room in 1963 as the first famous work of the architect Alvaro Siza.

Two years ago, after a massive reconstruction, Casa de Cha moved to a range of expensive restaurants. Here you will be offered modern versions of old Portuguese dishes. The interior is preserved with care.

Elegant simplicity, which was a must in 1960 for a poor country, today represents a distinctive type of luxury. This is the gastronomic world of chefcook Rui Paula.

PEDRO LEMOS

This restaurant, named after Chef Pedro Lemos, offers modern Portuguese cuisine following traditional recipes but is not afraid of new and impressive tastes. On the menu, you will see dishes like: blue lobster, John Dory, octopus, shrimps, Algarve black pig meat and lamb.

Here you will be able to order modern local gastronomical tastes and the finest Portuguese wines. In 2015, Pedro Lemos was granted a Michelin star.

DOP Haute cuisine

Porto’s most popular Michelin-star restaurant is Rui Paula’s Dop. The chef is distinctively communicable and talks to their guests, recommends dishes or shows how their food is prepared. The menu changes often; however, certain dishes are continuously cooked, for example, sea angel with Mondego rice and seafood, or a piglet with potatoes and cider sauce.

Open - Monday– 7:30 pm -11 pm, Tuesday-Saturday – 12:30 pm-3 pm; 7:30 pm- 11pm.

THERE IS A LARGE NUMBER OF FISH AND SEA FOOD DISHES ON THE MENU, WHICH ARE MADE FROM ONLY THE HIGHESTQUALITY INGREDIENTS. THE VIEWS OVER THE SKY, SEA AND CLIFFS AND THE AMAZING SERVICE MAKE THIS PLACE EVEN MORE IMPRESSIVE.

Dinner for two with a glass of wine will cost 50100 euros.

Avenida da Liberdade (Junto ao Farol), Leça da Palmeira

Dinner for two with a glass of wine will cost you 60 euros. Open: Tuesday-Saturday – 12:30 pm-3 pm, 7:30 pm-11 pm.

Rua do Padre Luís Cabral 974

CANTINHO DO AVILLEZ

Signature Cuisine

In the center of old Porto, Mouzinho da Silverira’s restaurant creates a cheerful and light atmosphere with its colorful decorations. There are a number of Portuguese retro-style details, such as vintage chairs and traditional salt and pepper grinders, which go very well with the charm of old Porto’s streets. Regarding the cuisine, the dishes created by the legendary Chef Aviles are amazing.

Dinner for two costs 35 euros.

Open - Monday to Friday 12:30pm -3 pm; 7 pm – 12 am; Saturday-Sunday 12:30 pm -12 am

Rua Mouzinho da Silveira 166

Dinner for two with wine costs 80€

Largo São Domingos 18

© Paulo Barata

© Paulo Barata

MATOSINHOS

PRAIA DE MATOSINHOS

Matosinhos beaches have white sand and clear blue sea, plus there are a number of sea food restaurants just a few steps away, which made the town famous across the world. The beach is very popular in the summer, patrolled by life guards, and easy to reach from Porto. You can attend surfing classes and take a personal trainer or rent a bike.

TITO 2 Sea Products

Every gourmand who visits this restaurant on the shore of the Atlantic says that there is life before Tito II and after Tito II. You can sense the amazing smell of grilled fish from the end of the street. Here they prepare freshly caught anchovies, sardines, octopuses and squid every morning.

CRUISE TERMINAL OF THE PORT OF LEIXÕES

Due to its spiral shape and glossy white surface, Leixões Porto Cruise Terminal is an ideal place to take photos. The terminal is also the center of Porto’s scientific university and technological park and plays a significant role in sea research.

The building belongs to the architectural firm, Luis Pedro Silva.

Rua do Godinho, Portaria junto do monumento Senhor do Padrão, Matosinhos

If you visit Porto, like sea food and want to have a tasty dinner, you need to go to the fishing settlement of Matosinio, north of Porto. You can reach it via the subway if you get off at Brito Capelo station and follow the smell of the barbeque smoke. You will then soon discover Rua Heróis de França with sideby-side restaurants.

You will taste fresh and delicious seafood products here every day except Monday.

You will never forget the sweet taste of shrimps blended with the gentle aroma of orange cedar and butter, grilled octopus salad and amazing fish baked in foil.

If you are a real gourmand, you need to taste the homemade crème brulée also. You will not be able to surprise anyone with the seafood in Portugal; however, Tito II’s culinary adventure offers a truly unforgettable experience.

Dinner for two with wine costs 60 euros. Open: 10 am-3 pm, 7 pm-11 pm

R. Heróis de França, 321, Matosinhos

MARISQUEIRA ANTIGA Fish and Seafood

This restaurant opened in 1957 in Matozinio. The menu consists of a huge list of fish and seafood dishes and it is definitely worth visiting. One of its main delicacies is acorda, which is cooked from a type of lobster (lavagante).

There are numerous other delicacies waiting for you here tooshrimps, mollusks, crabs,, sea curls and lamprey are just the tip of this gastronomic iceberg. Dinner for two with a bottle of wine costs 60 euros. Open every day – 12 pm-1 am.

628 R. Roberto Ivens, Matosinhos

IT IS A 10-MINUTE DRIVE FROM THE CENTER OF PORTO, AND A 20-MINUTE SUBWAY RIDE.

THE WALL BAR & LOUNGE

This bar in the old district of Baixa attracts guests with its diverse music in the evenings. The wall located behind the bar is its main attraction. This geometric 3-D wall is not only a new element of design but also displays a wide variety of drinks.

The mosaic of the wall is a kind of a map with names of all of the countries represented by the choice of drinks. The DJs play almost every type of music.

Open every day – 3 pm to-4 am

Rua Cândido dos Reis 90, Baixa

FABRIK

This bar and club, with its glossy industrial design, truly justifies its name, inspired by the former factory it occupies, and is one of the distinct places to taste cocktails in Porto.

The logo at the door depicts a smoky factory, and inside you will find cozy neon lights and dark walls and flooring. They have the best cocktails in the city – the freshly prepared caipirinhas and mojitos have a special reputation. The strawberry and blackberry flavors are especially popular.

Open: Tuesday to Saturday – 6 pm – 2 am

Rua Galeria de Paris 109

CONCEIÇÃO 35

This club, located in the center of Baixa, became popular straight after it opened, due to its modern design, delicious food, drinks and ambience. The interior is diverse with vintage and art deco elements that blend perfectly with its red walls, faded wood, industrial fa -

BONAPARTE

This legendary pub was established along the river by a German gentleman in 1977 and has since become a favorite meeting point for locals and tourists.

Here you will find a traditional azulejo, dark wooden elements and kitschy accessories from the Napoleonic period, which create a unique environment. The pub has some of the best beers and whiskies as well as amazing mojitos and gin and tonics. Open: Friday-Saturday – 5 pm3 am, Sunday-Thursday – 5 pm-2 am

Av. do Brasil 130

ERA UMA VEZ EM PARIS

The name of this bar means “Once in Paris”, inspired by its location. It is located on the street of Rua Galeria de Paris and is a wonderful combination of a bohemian space, a cafe and a bar and satisfies the criteria required for all three. Its attractive decor uses fine red tones and numerous vintage features, making you travel in a period of jazz in Paris.

The walls have black and white photos. Antique lights, elegant curtains, marble-surfaced tables, and velvet and leather chairs create a distinctive mood.

Open: Monday to Saturday - 7 pm–4 am

R. Galeria de Paris 106-108

cade and daylight. During the day, you can snack on sandwiches. The DJ plays until 4 am at the weekends and the bartender mixes the best cocktails.

Open: Monday-Thursday – 9 pm-2 am, Friday-Saturday - 9 pm-4 am

Rua da Conceição 35

BOTEQUIM NOSTALGIC

This riverside Tapas restaurant is also a cocktail bar. Its bright interior, wooden chairs and big white umbrellas create a beach club atmosphere. The dining area is mainly outside and on chilly days, you will be offered heating. The tapas menu consists of fresh delicacies - olives, spiced cheese, fried sausage, cod. Here you can taste gin with strawberry, mint, apple and berry flavors.

Open every day – 12 pm-2 am

Praça Ribeira

CASA DO LIVRO

This was a former book store and the interior contains shelves full of books, wallpapers, miniature lamps and a black piano even today.

It is full of people in the evening with jazz playing and sometimes pianists. You will be offered classic cocktails and the best champagne.

Open: Tuesday-Thursday – 9.30 pm-3 am, Friday-Saturday– 9:30 pm-4 am

Rua Galerias Paris 85

CAFÉ AU LAIT

This is a successful hybrid of a café and a bar. Here you will be served Porto’s best coffee and it also offers a very good-quality selection of tea. During the day, people come for a light lunch, and at night it is popular for music and drinks. You will hear jazz and blues at the weekdays and at the weekends the DJs throw parties.

Open: Tuesday-Saturday – 11 pm-4 am

Rua Galeria de Paris 46

TOINO ABEL

Tioni Abel bags are handmade and demonstrate the brand’s unique heritage. This family business is a symbol of Portuguese artisanal production. The brand’s tradition is to

WRONG WEATHER

The flagship of the Porto shopping scene, the concept store Wrong Weather, offers an amazing collection of shoes, including bold concepts from Adidas and Golden Goose sneakers, and accessories from Comme des Garcons.

The shop includes international brands (JUUN J, Marni and Kenzo) as well as works by local designers such as Nair Xavier, who creates products for young men.

CLERIGOS IN

Clerigos In is an optical accessory concept store, distinguished by its well-thought-out concept. It sells perfumes, accessories and optical accessories and will give you an unforgettable shopping experience. Here you will discover Super’s democratically designed sunglasses, and products by Mykita. On the nearby shelves, you will find Portuguese brands that are popular among the younger generation as well as Hugo Costas shoes and Chiara Ferragnis loafers. Open: 10.00-20.00.

EARLYMADE

THE FEETING ROOM

This shop is a bastion of intellectual consumerism. The inventory of the Feeting Room includes cotton shirts for men, club suits and shoes, as well as comfortable cardigans, cotton t-shirts and silver accessories for women.

You will also discover amazing and useful items for home decor as well as creative keychains and pins.

Largo dos Lóios 86

A VIDA PORTUGUESA

This shop sells sweets, ceramics, perfume, clothes and shoes. Here you will also find fish cans and traditional Portuguese products.

When you touch some of their handmade soap, you will recall that fragrances and spices were the main products of Portugal’s foreign trade.

Galeria de Paris 20

This is the most fashionable shop in the city. Its name is both a lifestyle and a brand. It is a shop and an art platform that combines concept store, art residence and exhibition spaces in the center of the Bombarda Art District. Exclusive, modern and unique items are sold here and great attention is paid to every detail. Most importantly, the brands and items that are exhibited here have a strong connection with Portugal.

Open: every day – 12 pm-8 pm.

Rua do Rosário 235

LUIS ONOFRE

Luis Onofre appeared in 1990 when he took over his grandma’s shoe company established in 1939. In 1999, he released his first collection and later was creating shoes for Kenzo and Chacharel. His creations are worn by the Queen of Spain, the actress Naomi Watts and other famous people.

Open: Monday-Saturday –10 am-7.30 pm.

Avenida da Boavista 3483

work with natural products, and the bags are created using vegetable tanned leather.

ALMA VIVA

There are numerous toys, tea sets and books in this store; however, the vintage robots, cars and animals are the most impressive.

Praça Dona Filipa de Lencastre 49

CLAUS PORTO

This brand is 130 years old. The soaps are handmade and carry the aromas of plants picked up at Portuguese villages. The colorful packaging of the products is a piece of art in itself, and are recognizable by their vintage graphic designs.

Open every day – 10 am -8 pm.

Rua das Flores 22

Av. da Boavista 754

R. das Carmelitas 151

I decided to go to Braga one windy day. The sky was covered with a layer of grey clouds; they lay on the horizon, predicting doom, and stuck to Porto’s roofs tiles like a black cloak. The wind hummed among the São Bento walls that were covered with beautiful azulejo tiles. Getting soaked in the rain and catching a cold did not seem like a good idea, but I thought that God would protect those who seek Portugal’s sacred places and I stepped into the train that stopped at the platform.

Portuguese grandmothers, clad in raincoats and comfortable shoes, occupied the standard colorful velvet chairs of the light rail train. Also, as is customary, everyone (except me) was equipped with a large umbrella. I took a free chair by the window and was about to take a customary nap when the most non-customary young couple sat in front of me.

The boy was about eighteen. He had blond messy hair and blue eyes. He had a hard time controlling his large, manly hands that “were attached” to the child’s body. The girl had dark hair, a nice smile and eyes full of so much love that I thought I was in a Mexican telenovela.

They sat by the window, hugging, and immediately took out a Braga guidebook. They were choosing places to see, whether to visit Bom Jesus Church first or just wander the streets. It was so sentimental that I even contemplated tearing up but got embarrassed in front of the real Portuguese grandmas.

From that moment on, Braga became the city of lovers for me. I spent the whole journey enveloped in a cloud of love. The train stopped at almost every station, which was very interesting. Touristic Portugal disappeared somewhere. Real meadows, yards and real Portuguese weather were outside. It rained 10 times; the sun came out 10 times and the sky got dark 10 times.

SALOME DADUNASHVILI

1.

The Holy Cross chapel

The cave on the Holy Cross chapel mountain

Despite the Passion Week, the peak of the Easter preparations, Braga station was almost empty. Braga and especially Bom Jesus Church are among the most important pilgrimage sites in Europe for the faithful, along with Santiago de Compostela in Spain, which is located several hours away.

I stepped on the freshly-rained-on street and the wind choked me with my own scarf like a snake. I lost my orientation and when I got free from the hovering fabric, I found myself in front of the bus. It had a large sign: Bom Jesus. Despite the fact that I had planned to walk into the city first, I recognized fate.

The wind pushed me into an empty bus, bought my ticket, and threw me down on the seat. The bus shuddered and embarked upon the road and in 15 minutes drove on to a beautiful hill covered with blooming trees. White stairs glittered somewhere on top – a 116-meter Baroque cascade. Bom Jesus Church hung in the air above it, in royal peace.

The first chapel was built on the hill in 1373. The church of the Holy Cross was developed in the XV-XVI centuries and in 1629 became established as a place of pilgrimage. The construction of Bom Jesus Church commenced in 1722, based on Manuel Pinto Villalobos’ project. It was dedicated to the passions of Christ. Later, the architect Carlos Amarante built a new church in its place in the neoclassical style. It was completed in 1834.

The bus stopped at the foothills; the clouds scattered and the sun shone. Its rays were reflected by thousands of raindrops on the camellia roses. I got dizzy from the fresh air and walked towards the funicular.

The funicular was built in 1882. It was the first one on the Iberian Peninsula and still runs to this day. The entrance was closed. A note stated that the funicular was open in winter from 8:55 am to 12:55 pm and from 13:55 pm to 17:55 pm, and in summer from 8:55 am to 7:55pm. I could not waste an hour waiting for it. What could I do?! I sadly looked at the top of the hill, and up hopefully at the sky, and stepped into the magical forest.

This was the right choice. Had the funicular worked, I would have never seen pink camelia petals on the moss-covered

stairs; would not have felt moist air and smelt the wet soil and grass; would not have seen shamelessly sparkling pink azalea trees; and would not have heard the birds chirping… Thousands of faithful pilgrims take these stairs every year. Sculptures placed along these white-and-black stairs remind pilgrims of Jerusalem’s Via Dolorosa.

When you come out of the dark forest onto the glistening, magnificent white staircase, with your senses acute as a result of the road you’ve taken, you begin to understand why each fountain located on several segments of the staircase is dedicated to different senses: sight, smell, hearing, touch, taste – everything human that one should overcome to learn the truth.

You walk up with no rest on this staircase that hangs in the sky and in the end you get to the Garden of Eden, with a glorious church in the center. The Garden of Eden also has a small hotel. You can drink coffee or call a cab from its terrace if you don’t want to take a bus back to Braga.

I decided to use Manuel Joaquin Gomez’s funicular and sat in the wagonette. The descent from the magic mountain was so fast that before I knew it, I was sitting in the number 2 bus, which brought me back to the center of Braga.

Braga has a very rich history, dating back to Roman times. During the Reconquista, Braga was a center of Christianity on the Iberian Peninsula before Santiago de Compostela.

The old city center was decorated with palm branches before Easter. Walls, adorned with ceramic tiles, glistened with thousands of colors. Groups of happy people strolled along the streets, laughing and talking loudly with each other.

The great cathedral of Braga was covered in palm branches and flowers. There was an entrance fee. An antique market was set up around it, held every Sunday. The city center was tiny. I had seen everything in an hour. I was rich – I carried a purchase, a carefully wrapped antique mirror in my pocket. This is when the rain poured again and I rushed into a café for shelter.

A glass display case was full of sugared desserts. Tibia, the traditional dessert, looked the most attractive. Tibia is similar to French choux. This dessert was introduced to me as Braga’s own and brought to me on a white plate.

Café A Brasileira (Largo do Barão de São Martinho 17) turned out to be one of the oldest in Braga, with marble tables and very polite servers.

The rain was over and as I went towards the station, I came across a strange crowd on one of the streets: happy people with Easter cake in one hand and a small bottle of port wine in another. Suddenly, kind people gave me those too. I found out that this was the way Braga church celebrated the run-up to Easter: it fed passersby. Armed with spiritual and physical food and tipsy on sweet port wine, with the wind pushing

me along from behind, I almost ran to the station. The train with its colorful, velvet chairs awaited me. The Portuguese grandmas were there as well. The train took off and it started to rain again.

A two-way ride to Porto costs 7€. The train leaves São Bento station every 30 minutes. It arrives at the platform pretty early, so you can peacefully take a seat; just remember to validate your ticker at the special yellow boxes located on the platform. A ride takes more than the promised 50 minutes, since the train stops at every station, so keep in mind that you will need an hour and a half.

Make sure to check the schedule of trains departing to Porto and thus avoid pointless waiting at the station.

It takes 10 minutes to walk from the station to the city center. However, if you decide to visit Bom Jesus, wait for the #2 bus

SÉ DE BRAGA

Braga Cathedral is one of the oldest and most important churches in Portugal. Its construction began in the 12th century. Construction of the cathedral was ordered by Teresa and Henry, the parents of Afonso I, the first king of Portugal. The cathedral continued to develop for centuries. The portico was added to the main entrance in the 15th century, and the Baroque period is responsible for the two bell towers. The cathedral pipe organ is also designed in the Baroque style.

TESOURO - MUSEU DA SÉ

The cathedral museum holds the most important treasure in the city. The precious collection includes ecclesiastical clothing, dishes and jewelry. The museum’s permanent exposition is entitled "The Roots of Eternity: The Church of Jesus Christ" and makes use of three rooms. The items displayed here are of utmost importance to Portuguese history. A clear example of this is the cross, which was taken by Pedro Álvares Cabral to Brazil, and which was used to conduct the first mass on the new land.

The museum is open from Tuesday to Saturday 09:30 am -12:30 pm and 02:30 pm - 5:30 pm

In summer – 09:30 am – 6:00 pm

R. Dom Paio Mendes

Rua Dom Paio Mendes - Rossio da Sé 4700-424 Braga

5. Braga Cathedral

3. The Congregados Basilica

at the station (price 1.65€). Bom Jesus buses leave every 30 minutes.

The funicular leaves every 30 minutes as well, though I strongly recommend that you climb the stairs. There is another interesting church on the hill – you need 40 minutes to walk there. You can call a cab from the hotel on the hill, but make sure that you talk with the driver beforehand as there is no transportation on the hill.

The funicular ride costs 2 Euros and lasts five minutes. You can ride the #2 bus back to Braga. If you plan a morning trip, then you may have enough time to visit Guimaraes, located 30 minutes away from Braga. In this case, you won’t have time to sit in a café. The ticket from Porto to Braga includes Guimaraes.

WITH A 2,000-YEAR HISTORY, PORTUGAL’S OLDEST CITY, ESTABLISHED BY THE EMPEROR AUGUSTUS, TODAY IS THE YOUNGEST IN THE COUNTRY ACCORDING TO THE POPULATION’S AGE. THE BRAGA BISHOPRIC IS VERY OLD AS WELL. IT WAS HIGHLY INFLUENTIAL ON THE IBERIAN PENINSULA AND AT ONE TIME RIVALED THE POWER OF SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA. THE SYMBOL OF MODERN BRAGA IS THE STADIUM BUILT AFTER BY THE PRITZKER PRIZE WINNER, EDUARDO SOUTO DE MOURA.

GUIMARÃES

The history of Guimarães is closely intertwined with Portuguese statehood. This medieval city, due to the rare historical authenticity of its historic center, is a UNESCO World Architecture Monument site. In 1128, "the cradle of Portugal was rocked". The events that took place in this city led to Portugal’s independence.

"Portugal was born here" states the inscription on one of the towers of the old city. In the 19th century, the old city walls collapsed and Guimarães went through a significant reconstruction, although the old city was not damaged.

The Palace of the Dukes of Braganza with its famous stovepipes; the Castle of Guimarães; and the city’s historic center are the must-see sights of Guimarães.

4. The Archiepiscopal palace and garden of Santa Bárbara.

MONUMENT OF AFONSO I –THE FIRST KING OR PORTUGAL –BORN IN GUIMARÃES IN 1109.

SAINT MARY IS A HIGHLY RESPECTED SAINT IN PORTUGAL.

Fátima, where according to legend, the Holy Mother of God appeared before three little shepherds in 1917, and is one of the sacred places in Portugal and a cult place of Virgin Mary.

This location became even more famous when Pope John Paul II became a great admirer of the Virgin Mary of Fatima. According to legend, the Virgin Mary first appeared in Fatima on May 13 and then on the 13th of every month until October; that’s why pilgrims come here on the 13th of every month.

May 13 is the date of the main religious holiday in Fatima, one of its key moments being a walk with candles, the Procissão das Velas, on the evening of May 12. Thousands of believers with candles in their hands fill the Holy Square.

The walk of repentance, Procissão do Adeus, takes place on May 13th and is very

TOMAR FÁTIMA

THE HOLY TRINITY CATHEDRAL SMALL BASILICA, IGREJA DA SANTÍSSIMA TRINDADE - BASÍLICA MENOR, CAN ACCOMMODATE 8,700 PEOPLE. ITS DESIGNERS WERE THE GREEK ARCHITECT ALEXANDROS TOMBAZIS AND THE PORTUGUESE ARCHITECTS ALVARO SIZA VIEIRA AND PEDRO CALAPEZ.

impressive. The Basilica de Nossa Senhora do Rosário de Fátima is located at the entrance of the territory open for the faithful, Reconto das Orações. Its largest tower is 65 meters. The monument of Jesus’ Sacred Heart, Monumento ao Sagrado Coração de Jesus, is located in the middle of the square, while the Chapel of the Holy Virgin, Capela das Aparições, is located on the other.

According to legend, this is the place where the Virgin Mary asked the children to build a chapel. You can also visit the Museum of Sacred Arts and Ethnology (Museu de Arte Sacra e Etnologia), Fatima Museum (Museo Fátima 1917), and the museum, where the Christmas manger and settlement in Bethlehem are reenacted by moving figures (Presepio e Aldeia de Belém Animados).

Fátima is 120 km from Lisbon and 180 km from Porto.

The Order of the Knights Templar was established in Portugal in the XII century to help Christian kings with the Reconquista and to continue the crusades. The palace of the Templars was founded in 1160 in Tomar.

It was similar to fortifications in the Holy Land and was considered the most modern building in the Portuguese Kingdom. However, in 1312, Pope Clement V dissolved the order to end its greatness and power. Later, the Order of Christ was created in Portugal.

You can imagine searching for the Holy Grail in the heart of Portugal when you visit Castelo de Almourol, the town of Constância and the mysterious tower – Torre de Dornes. The town was a gathering place for knights and heroes searching for the Grail.

Visit the National Forest - Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes. The tower located here is adorned with frescoes; it is called Charolinha, which resembles Christ’s monastery in its form.

Tomar is 120 km from Lisbon and 173 km from Porto.

IN CHRIST’S MONASTERY, CONVENTO DE CRISTO, YOU WILL FIND THAT THE DEAMBULTORY WAS CONSTRUCTED SIMILAR TO THE LORD’S GRAVE IN JERUSALEM AND THAT THE MANUELINOSTYLE CHURCH, WHERE THE ORDER WAS ESTABLISHED, REPLICATES THE PROPORTIONS OF SOLOMON'S TEMPLE.

ÓBIDOS

The small town of Obidos greets guests with white houses. In 1148, King Afonso rescued the city from Arab invaders. Subsequently, King Denis gave Obidos to his wife, Queen Isabel. Until 1883 the town and its surroundings were the property of the Portuguese kings.

The centennial walls and the tower surrounded by an Arab-style fortress, which currently houses the hotel Pousada Castelo Óbidos and was built by King Denis, are the best examples of Portuguese medieval defensive architecture.

CASTELO E CONJUNTO URBANO DA VILA DE ÓBIDOS. THE MEDIEVAL SPIRIT IS ALIVE IN THE CITY'S FORTIFICATION COMPLEX. IT IS SURROUNDED BY HIGH WALLS. THE WHOLE OBIDOS DEVELOPMENT STARTS FROM THIS FORTRESS, ITS GATEWAY AND THE CENTRAL SQUARE.

OBIDOS WILL CHARM YOU WITH ITS MULTITUDE OF FLOWERS AND PLANTS.

The entrance to the city, the south gate of the Virgin Mary, is decorated with XVIII-century tiles. The medieval atmosphere prevails inside the walls of the fortress, which lights up in the sunset. This atmosphere is created by the sloping streets, old whitewashed houses with blue or yellow angles, and the Manuelino-style doors and windows – all reminiscent of the contribution of King Manuel I (XVI century) to the town’s development.

VISIT ST. MARY'S CATHEDRAL, THE BEAUTIFUL CHAPEL OF ST. MARTIN, AND THE CHURCH OF CHRIST BEYOND THE FORTRESS WALLS.

OBIDOS IS 80 KM FROM LISBON. FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO TRAVEL BY CAR, THERE IS A CAR PARK BESIDE THE CITY ENTRANCE, AWAY FROM THE HISTORICAL CENTER. YOU CAN TRAVEL TO OBIDOS BY TRAIN TOO; THE RAILWAY STATION IS LOCATED OUTSIDE THE FORTRESS WALLS AND YOU WILL HAVE TO WALK 10-15 MINUTES UP THE SLOPE. THERE IS AN ALTERNATIVE – CALL A CAB.

Not far from the capital city, near the Atlantic Ocean, it has always been a strategically important town, located in a very prominent place. There is a large sandy beach near Obidos – the Royal Beach (Praia d'El Rey), where golf lovers can play. The magnificent view of the Atlantic Ocean opens up from the square. Visit the city of Caldas da Rainha; its history is also associated with the royal family. From there you can reach the Foz do Arelho beach.

This coast unites the Obidos lagoon with the sea and it is a great place for dinner, and to relax at the sea shore at sunset. Here you can taste delicious shrimp and dishes prepared from fresh fish.

CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL

In April, the most devoted dessert lovers travel from around the world to Obidos where the International Chocolate Festival is held.

The streets of this old city showcase biscuits and candies. Most children visit the "Kids Chocolate House" where they can cook desserts themselves. Master classes are available for adults to learn how to prepare a variety of chocolates. Professional competitions such as

"Chocolate Master of the Year" and "International Competition of Chocolate Recipes" take place here.

The festival also features sculptures made of chocolate, which are indeed works of art.

IGREJA DA GRAÇA

Follow Giraldo Square via Rua da República to Igreja da Graça. The Lord's Temple Cathedral was built in the 16th century by King Joao III as a project for Miguel de Arruda.

ÉVORA

The cities of the Altenejo region - Evora and Elvas - are on the list of mankind’s finest cultural and historical heritage. Remnants of past centuries are preserved in the following cities: Santarém, Portalegre and Beja, as well as the old Jewish quarters, especially Castelo de Vide.

THE ROOTS OF EVORA’S HISTORY REACH THE ROMAN ERA. ITS GOLDEN AGE WAS IN THE XV CENTURY WHEN THE PORTUGUESE ROYAL FAMILY AND NOBLEMEN LIVED THERE. THE HISTORIC IMPORTANCE OF THE CITY IS REFLECTED IN ITS ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE. THE UNIVERSITY OF EVORA OPENED IN THE XVI CENTURY AND THE CITY BECAME A CENTER OF SCIENCE AND EDUCATION. THAT IS WHY EVORA IS INCLUDED IN UNESCO’S WORLD HERITAGE LIST.

ERMIDA DE SÃO BRÁS

The chapel of Sao Bras located on the Rossio Square is one of the first examples of the Manueline-Mudejar style of architecture. The impact of Arab culture is tangible.

SÉ DE ÉVORA

Evora’s cathedral is the largest Gothic temple in Portugal. It also contains fortification elements. The central dome displays a rare form of Portuguese art. It dates back to the XIII century.

Romanesque-Gothic figures on the portico invite you into the church. The main chapel was rebuilt in the Baroque style in 1718. The marble altar contrasts with the otherwise ascetic style of the cathedral. A statue of the Virgin Mary stands directly across from the gold-encrusted wooden statue of the Archangel Gabriel, located in the central nave. An enormous XVIII-century organ is housed in the upper part.

The cathedral’s two tall symmetrical towers are one of the main attractions of the city. The North Tower exhibits priceless religious art.

This church, in the Mannerist style, is a magnificent example of architecture of the era. The unique monument reflects Palladian influences.

The façade and portico feature two angels and four Atlases in the four corners – symbols of four rivers. The locals call them "God’s favorite boys."

PRAÇA DO GIRALDO

This square is Evora’s heart. Start exploring the city from there.

The XVI-century marble fountain has 8 spouts, each symbolizing one of the main streets running from the square.

XVI century Igreja de Santo Antão is located in one of the corners. After entering the staircase, you step into the interior of the Church, where you will be amazed by the altar and sacred art in this chapel.

This coastal town always fought for freedom. These battles are its main mark on the history of mankind.

The 843-arch grandiose aqueduct (Aqueduto) greets guests to the town. It stretches for about 7 kilometers. Architect Francisco de Arruda, the designer of the Lisbon Torre de Belém, constructed it. The world’s largest defensive, bastion-type structures are located in Elvas. They form a star over a 10 km area, demonstrating the development of war-time strategic architecture (from ancient times to XIX). This defensive structure is included in UNESCO’s list of world heritage sites.

The structures include Islamic and medieval fortresses, as well as the XVII century girdle influenced by the Dutch Vauban style.

The oldest part of the city is in the center, in the Castelo district. Go to Praça da República to walk to the former cathedral, now Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Assunção. On the way, you will see the Dominican Cathedral (Igreja das Domínicas).

It has an octagonal shape and retains its original architecture. The Pillar of Shame and the Ferdinand Tower (Torre Fernandina)

are located along this route as well. You will also notice arches, which indicate the existence of former gateways to the fortress.

While visiting Elvas, we recommend that you see other sights too, such as the San Dominguez and San Francesco temples, the military museum, the modern art museum (Museu de Arte Contemporânea), and the Joao Carpinteiro Photography Musuem (Museo de Fotografia João Carpinteiro), which houses an exquisite exhibition of the history of photography, a 1898 camera, and documents dating back to 1860.

SINTRA

PALACE AT THE CROSSROADS OF A THOUSAND WINDS

SALOME DADUNASHVILI

Prince Ferdinand, the husband of Maria II, Queen of Portugal, had a hereditary love for romantic palaces. His uncle Ludwig almost sacrificed his kingdom to construct Neuschwanstein Castle in Germany. Ferdinand also adored walls that appeared to grow from mountain peaks.

The Palácio Nacional da Pena - the Pena palace - is a dream in Sintra. A happy exception when something so desirable became accessible. This palace is a dream of the 19th century – the Prince's obsession, which became a reality.

Portugal's royal family always escaped Lisbon’s hot summers. This small town is lost in a valley covered by green forests. It breathes with an aristocratic calmness. The circulation of blue blood set the rhythm for this city. It still remains a place for strong and influential people. Only the wind from the Atlantic Ocean breaks the calm. Due to the wind, it is much cooler in

Sintra than in Lisbon. The Palácio Nacional de Sintra, the Old Royal Residence located in the center of the city, cannot be missed - its two large white chimneys are visible from every angle. The fireplace was always lit in the huge royal kitchen, which served the whole royal court. 18th century Azulejo adorn its richly decorated halls.

Perhaps this palace was not very romantic for Ferdinand. Instead of trivial fireplaces, he wanted to see towers.

His attention was drawn by the old monastery on the top of the mountain.

The monastery was created in the Manuelino style (the 16th-century Portuguese Renaissance, named after King Manuel the Fortunate, who reigned at that time). It was later abandoned, though this symbol of the greatness of old Portugal become a solid foundation for the construction of a new palace. The Romantic-style park in front of the palace is an integral part of the complex.

Over the centuries, the Pena monastery remained a quiet place. It could hold 18 monks. In the 18th century, the building was damaged by lightning. The devastating earthquake that destroyed Lisbon followed in 1755 and for decades the monastery was abandoned. The ruins impressed Ferdinand so much that he immediately started construction.

Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwege, a young German mining engineer, was commissioned to build a Romantic-style palace.

Construction began in 1842 and continued until Ferdinand’s death in 1885. Prince Ferdinand and Queen Maria got actively involved in the construction and decoration of the palace from 1847 onwards. Ferdinand came up with the idea of a central gateway. Triton sits in the shell, his feet covered with scales and vines growing from his shoulders. This sculpture was a symbol of the Portuguese state - to celebrate its culture of domination of the sea and cultivation of the land.

It was not easy to turn an old abbey into a royal palace. Despite the rich exterior, noble residents had to endure low ceilings. The royal family's apartment rooms were accessed via a patio. It still has a fountain where stone turtles hold a shell.

The romantic king appreciated painting and painted one of the walls in his workshop himself.

The palace walls have seen many famous people and it left a profound impression on people with an artistic nature. One of them was Lord Byron, who dedicated a poem to the palace. He wrote in his diary: "palaces and gardens rising in the midst of rocks."

Upon Prince’s orders, plants from all over the world covered 200 hectares of the garden. North American sequoias, Japanese camellias, Chinese gingko trees and ferns that grow like trees… the colored walls of Pena grew dull and looked grey by comparison. After fresh renovations, the palace façade now has vivid colors. The pink and orange walls have a golden glow in sunset.

As a result of the recently completed renovations, the palace has returned to its original colors. The pink and orange walls in the sun's rays are still golden.

Princess Amelia, the last queen of Portugal, spent a night in the palace before she fled the country. The 1910 republic revolution ended the monarchy and the new government nationalized Pena palace.

Pena palace was the last breath of the brilliance of the Portuguese Royal Court. This happens when kings spend more time on painting than on politics. Harsh times soon changed everything but before the last king of Portugal and his son were executed at the main square of Lisbon, and before the Azulejo-covered walls depicted the sorrow of his devastated mother, there was Pena Palace. A dream palace – a royal family nest on the top of the mountain at the crossroads of a thousand winds.

Sintra is a 40-minute car ride away from Lisbon. Make sure to take a warm jacket as Sintra is cool even in the warmest days of summer.

The city is so attractive and interesting it's definitely worth staying in a small hotel and visiting the palace early in the morning. Parking at the palace

QUINTA DA REGALEIRA

In addition to the Pena palace, Sintra houses several remarkable historic monuments. One of the most famous is Palácio e Quinta da Regaleira. This impressive palace, built in the Mauritian style, used to belong to an eccentric British millionaire. It is said that the owner was fond of occultism.

Maybe that’s why the park seems so magical. The only thing we know for sure is that Quinta da Regaleira leaves an unforgettable impression. It has a new owner now – the American pop star Madonna bought it in 2017. Admission price: 12 €.

The imitation well/spiral gallery consists of nine arches going down into the ground, each of which has 15 steps. According to legend, the well is symbolic of Dante’s nine circles of hell. At the bottom of the well there is a compass over a Knights Templar cross, which is said to have been Monteiro’s herald. According to legend, masonic rituals were held here.

is difficult so it is better to take a taxi or purchase a tour in a local tourist agency. In this case, your transportation will take you directly to the palace garden.

More courageous guests take the garden paths to the top of the mountain; you can also ride special shuttles that will bring you to the palace. The wild garden, where many exotic plants grow, is very interesting as well. You can return on foot.

Visitors usually take a one-day tour to Sintra. However, you won’t get bored if you stay for three days, especially since the local restaurants are known for their traditional delicacies. If you wish to get away from Lisbon's noisy streets and spend two or three days listening to birds chirping and admiring the beautiful architecture, Sintra will not disappoint.

If you’d like to spend time like a royal, you can stay in Palácio De Seteais Sintra. This palace was built in 1783 with its grandiose halls and park.

There are two packages for a group tour from Lisbon: a 5-hour and 8-hour tour that includes Cascais and Cape Roca. The five-hour tour costs 48 €; it covers a visit to the Pena palace and a guide is provided. You can also travel independently and hire a car with a driver (price: 200 €). From Lisbon, you can travel by train; a two-way ticket price is 8 € and the journey lasts 40-50 minutes, though you’d need a taxi at the other end to get to the palace.

CASCAIS

Cascais and Estoril – the coastal strip north of Lisbon – became a cosmopolitan travel destination after King Louis I turned the castle in the Cascais gulf into a royal summer royal residence in 1870. The mild climate and 260 days of sunshine per year led European aristocratic families to build luxury palaces for themselves, following the royal couple. The settlement soon turned into a splendid resort.

MUSEU DOS BISCAINHOS

The "Aristocrat Castle" belonged to a noble family a few centuries ago. Today, this building houses the Museu dos Biscainhos. The collection includes valuable artefacts from the Roman period.

CONVENTO DE NOSSA SENHORA DA PIEDADE

LAID OUT BY THE SEA COASTLINE, CASCAIS, ONCE A FISHING VILLAGE, EVOLVED AT A FAST PACE SINCE IT BECAME A HARBOR FOR SHIPS HEADING TO LISBON IN THE 14TH CENTURY.

MUSEU CONDES DE CASTRO GUIMARÃES

Many grand palaces remain in Cascais today. The most famous among them is the Palacio de Condes de Castro in Guimarães. Today, a very interesting museum of over 25,000 books is located within its walls. This is one of the largest book collections in Portugal. There are a number of genuine rarities among them that are over 500 years old.

You can get to Cascais, which is located 20 km from Lisbon, by taking the seaside route (Estrada Marginal) or by train. All along the trip you can enjoy picturesque landscapes of the Tegus valley and Estoril’s beautiful coastline. The beaches remain the main attractions of Cascais. You can relax at the ones located in the gulf or at the Guincho beach, which is part of the Sintra-Cascais suburban park. There are excellent conditions for surfing and windsurfing there.

Today, the whole coastline is covered with magnificent beaches. Guincho - the largest among them - is a true paradise for surfers due to its large waves.

bar and yard. Fortaleza is a prestigious gastronomic venue but the prices are quite affordable.

Estrada do Guincho

FORTALEZA DO GUINCHO

The hotel's restaurant, which boasts three Michelin stars, offers local cuisine. It houses an excellent

This nunnery was founded in the middle of the 17th century. For years, it housed the world's first (official) school of philosophy. Today, a cultural center is located here.

Av. Rei Humberto II de Itália

Av. Rei Humberto II de Itália Parque Marechal Camona

MUSEUM OF THE BRITISH PAINTER PAULA REGO - CASA DAS HISTÓRIAS PAULA REGO. ARCHITECT: EDUARDO SOUTO DE MORA.

This unique historic building was once the residence of the Italian kings in exile.

The Grande Real Villa Italia is surrounded by large stone terraces and a pool. It is worth mentioning its magnificent interior decorated with antiques and works of art, and adorned with rare types of wood and exquisite marble.

GRANDE REAL VILLA ITALIA

Av. Rei Humberto II de Itália

R. Frei Nicolau de Oliveira 100

Located 15 km from Lisbon on the Cascais shore, Estoril is a tourist center of Portugal. Many high-end hotels and night clubs are located there.

This small settlement became the country’s largest trading port in the XIV century. In the era of great geographical discoveries, it played a crucial role, linking discoverers, merchants and the rest of Europe. Later, for a long time, Estoril remained a fishing village and became a tourist hub by the end of the XIX and the beginning of the XX century.

Estoril became a favorite destination for royal families and aristocrats. At differ-

ESTORIL

The Portuguese were right when they called this gloomy, violent cliff “the edge”. Cabo da Roca is the extreme western point of the European continent. The Atlantic Ocean and North America lie ahead. Here, on the edge of the land, you feel helpless, like a grain of sand scattered in the cosmos. The terrible power of the ocean will surprise you. Enjoy the fantastic colors of the sunset–- here the sun goes down directly into the ocean.

ent times, the city was a shelter for persecuted kings, a new home for migrants during World War II, and a window to America.

ESTORIL HAS AN ATLANTIC CLIMATE. THE LONG SUMMER DAYS ARE FOLLOWED BY WARM RAINY WEATHER IN WINTER.

It is called the world's most sunny city. The Gulf Stream determines its pleasant climate, with an all-year beach season. However, the summer months are considered the best time to visit when the air temperature is +30 and the water is +20 degrees.

BOCA DO INFERNO

The little bay is encompassed by jagged rocks and caves; the waves against them sound enchanting, reminiscent of a wild beast. The locals considered it a mystical place. According to legend, the entrance to the underworld is located near the rock.

THE BEAUTIFUL SHORES AND CLEAN AIR ATTRACT TRAVELERS TO ESTORIL. MAGNIFICENT VILLAS, GLORIOUS PALACES, HIGH-END HOTELS AND GOLDEN SANDS BEACHES ARE LOCATED HERE.

CASINO ESTORIL

Estoril Casino is considered the biggest in Europe. During World War II, many spies visited it and planned their war ventures. Ian Fleming, the celebrated English writer and journalist and author of the James Bond series, said that it was his favorite place. After visiting the casino, he was inspired to write a new James Bond book – Casino Royale.

Gala concerts are held daily in Casino Estoril. Clients' appearance is of the utmost importance. For example, if you wish to play roulette, you must make sure to wear a tie and submit your passport upon entry. Every day there is a wonderful performance of live music in English, Spanish and Portuguese.

Apart from the entertainment halls, the casino houses an art gallery where you can browse the works of modern artists and sculptors.

CABO DA ROCA

OAK CORKS

Christian monk Dom Perignon laid foundation for using oak corks for bottles. In the middle of the XVII century, he tested over a hundred different materials and concluded that neither hemp, nor piece of wood wrapped in hemp stores the wine as well, as oak cork.

Oak cork does not burn, it does not lose its properties in water, does not conduct fluids and gases. It is believed that the very small amount of air that can get in the bottle through the cork pores only improves the quality of the wine. After compression, the cork initial volume is partially restored, which is why the bottle is tightly fitted.

QUERCUS SUBER IS SPECIES OF OAK THAT IS USED FOR MAKING CORKS

More than half of the world's corks (52, 2%) are manufactured in Portugal.

Perennial oak trees that are the source of these valuable raw materials are unique plants; they live a long time and have a great ability to regenerate.

After the oak (Quercus suber) gets 25 years old, it changes bark every ten years. An extractor uses a very sharp axe to make two types of cuts on the tree: one horizontal cut around

THE OLDEST CORK OAK IN PORTUGAL IS 212 YEARS OLD. THIS TREE HAS ALREADY PRODUCES A TONE AND HALF CORK.

the plant, and several vertical delicate cuts, trying not damage the tree.

THE WORKS ARE CARRIED OUT FROM THE BEGINNING OF MAY TO AUGUST, WITH THE EXCEPTION OF HOT DAYS WHEN THE WINDS MAY DAMAGE THE GENTLE SURFACE OF THE TREE WITHOUT THE BARK. THE OAKS "APPRECIATE" SUCH AN ATTENTIVE ATTITUDE TOWARD THEM AND PRODUCE NEW RAW MATERIALS OVER THE YEARS.

A wine bottle cork is made of the third harvest, which has the desired structure. Afterwards, the oak cork gives can be harvested every 10 years, for a century and a half. It provides raw materials and a full-grown, good harvest for about 15-16 times. Cork is stripped only manually. Layers are boiled, dried and freed from unusable parts. It is boiled several more times and stored in moist conditions for 9-12 months. Then the cork layers are thrown into the water for the third time, cut into parts, kept for another three months and only then molded into the final shape.

The products are carefully handled and inspected for foreign smells and substances that may ruin the wine's vibrant properties. Afterwards, corks are vacuum sealed and sent to wine producers.

Cork oak forests occupy a total of 730 thousand hectares in Portugal; every tree is marked with the date when it was barked.

The law has been protecting the oak forests, as part of the national heritage, for years. The pace of restoration of forests today is 10 hectares annually.

ACCORDING TO THE SURVEY OF WINE LOVERS, 75% OF RESPONDENTS PREFER SEALED BOTTLED WINE, WHILE 69% THINK THAT THE NATURAL CORK SIGNIFIES BETTER QUALITY OF WINE.

© The Portuguese Cork Association (APCOR)

ALGARVE

The Algarve region has year-round sunshine (3000 hrs.), a mild climate, fine white sandy beaches stretching from horizon to horizon, small lagoons surrounded by golden cliffs and an eternally peaceful, warm and blue ocean. Deserted islands are located between the Ria Formosa lagoon and the sea.

The 200 km coastline is the best place for all types of water sports, sailing, surfing and windsurfing.

Its beaches stretch over 200 km from the southwestern coast of Aljezur to the extreme east point (Vila Real de Santo António). Most of them are well-protected and satisfy the European Blue Flag standard.

LAGOS

Lagos has an exciting history. In ancient times, it was called Lacobriga. Celtic tribes settled here in 2000 BC, were chased away by the Phoenicians, who were then replaced by Greeks – and then the Carthaginians. It flourished in the Roman era. In the X century, the Arabs built a protective fortress around the lagoon. In 1249, it returned to the Kingdom of Portugal.

The XV century – the period of great geographical discoveries – was the lagoon’s golden age. Located on the opposite side of the African continent, the lagoon became an important port from which many exotic goods, ivory, gold and silver were transported to Portugal.

The Algarve has everything you need to relax and enjoy life. Its history of navigation and piracy gives it an unusual charm, displayed by fishermen’s colorful trail boats and yachts from all over the world.

FOLLOW THE AVENIDA DOS DESCOBRIMENTOS TO FIND THE BEAUTIFUL YACHT MARINA, MARINA DE LAGOS. CARAVELA BOA ESPERANÇA – A COPY OF THE OLD PORTUGUESE CARAVELAS – FLOATS AMONG THE MANY YACHTS.

Start your route in Lagos from Forte da Ponta da Bandeira until you reach the Castello dos Governadores.

THE 15TH-CENTURY IGREJA DE SANTA MARIA WITH ITS INTERESTING 18THCENTURY ALTAR IS LOCATED NEARBY. VISIT THE IGREJA DE SANTO ANTÓNIO WITH ITS CRUDE FACADE AND GOLD-ENCRUSTED INTERIOR.

Meia Praia's coastline stretches five kilometers to the east; it ends at Laguna Alvor. Smaller beaches are located on the other side. The shore is washed by pristine waves. It has a special beauty due to the erosion of the rocks.

Its beaches include: Batata, Pinhão, Dona Ana and Camilo. You can access them easily from the center of Lagos.

THE ALGARVE HAS 40 GOLF COURSES. IT HAS BEEN RECOGNIZED AS ONE THE BEST VENUES IN THE WORLD FOR PROFESSIONAL GOLFERS AS WELL AS AMATEURS.

YELLOW LAGOS MEIA PRAIA

This hotel offers 200 luxury rooms, all of which are furnished with peaceful, light-colored and exclusive furniture. The hotel’s panoramic view encompasses the beach and the pool. There is also an excellent restaurant serving international cuisine, and the bar offers the best regional wines.

R. Jardim da Meia Praia 8600-315 Lagos

VALMAR VILLAS

Valmar Villas is located in a beautiful and historic building complex. Restored wooden ceilings and stone elements remain in the rooms and halls. All of the rooms are decorated with beautiful wooden furniture with handmade detailing. The hotel houses an interesting collection of old paintings and photos also.

Estr. do Monte Carapeto 11

BOUTIQUE HOTEL MIRANDA

This hotel’s beautiful rooms are decorated with different styles. Some of them are minimalistic and decorated with modern furniture while others

ARTISTAS

bear classical designs and sophisticated antique furniture. Colorful textiles and interesting lighting systems are everywhere. The wooden décor determines each room’s elegant atmosphere.

Rua das Violetas - Porto de Mós

This restaurant offers the most popular local cuisine as well as signature sea food dishes.

R. Cândido dos Reis 68

OASIS

This restaurant is one of the most popular places in the city so you should make a reservation in advance.

BENAGIL

The world’s finest beach is located in the Algarve region, near the village of Benagil. Here you’ll find a crystal clear, sandy beach as well as rock formations and caves. The water is transparent and you will be able to observe the marine life in it. There is a secret beach accessible only from the sea.

Marina de Lagos, Loja 15 e 16

ARRIBALE

In addition to the excellent quality of the dishes, this restaurant has distinctly friendly staff. Diners who can’t imagine dinner without fish delicacies will especially appreciate this place.

R. de Sá 40

FARO

Faro is the capital of the Algarve region. The Ria Formosa lagoon, Portugal’s largest wildlife reservoir, occupies a large area in the region. It is among the most rare places in Europe where the shoreline is preserved untouched, with its lakes, small islands and marshes.

In the old historical town, pay attention to the Cathedral, the nearby Episcopal Palace of the XVII century and the Arco da Vila. The eight-kilometer-long sandy beach is encircled by the lagoon. The beach is perfect for sailboats or pleasant strolls.

Portugal’s southernmost point is located on the island of Kulatra, near Faro, which is 45 minutes away via sea transportation.

Here you will find a beautiful beacon on Santa Maria's cape.

PRAIA DA ILHA DE FARO

Faro Island is located west in the chain of islands that separate the Ria Formosa lagoon from the open ocean. It is a part of the natural preserve territory. Many restaurants are located there serving many delicacies, including European sole with rice.

TASCA

Tasca's national cuisine stands out among Faro’s many restaurants. The main distinguishing feature is the endless list of Portuguese dishes and impressive portion sizes.

R. do Alportel 38

CAMANÉ

Another popular restaurant that features national cuisine is located on the central beach of Faro. It is better to book a table in advance.

Av. Poente 9

DOIS IRMÃOS

DESERTA

Trips to an uninhabited island are a popular pastime in Faro. You can get there via a water taxi. The island’s beautiful white beach is its main attraction and the only facility is a small restaurant. You can relax in the atmosphere of complete solitude on the beach, stroll in wonderful places, dine in the restaurant in the evening and enjoy the sunset.

POUSADA DE SÃO BRÁS

Dois Irmãos restaurant is located in a beautiful old building, where you can enjoy cuisine from different countries.

Praça Ferreira de Almeida 15

MONTE DO CASAL

This restaurant resembles a village tavern but is especially popular among gourmands who appreciate grilled fish.

Cerro do Lobo

A visit to this restaurant, Pousada de São Brás, which only serves national cuisine, will be an interesting culinary adventure for Portuguese wine lovers. The largest wine cellar on the island is located here. Its diverse wine map and extensive menu has options for even the most refined gourmands.

São Brás de Alportel

TEA RITUAL

The five o'clock tea tradition originated in England under Portuguese influence. In 1543, the Portuguese were the first inhabitants of the continent to experience tea culture in Japan. The sea has played a crucial role in spreading tea on the old continent. In the 16th century, the Portuguese were the first to travel to China for tea, and in 1750 they were the first to plant tea plantations.

A LITTLE LATER, PORTUGUESE PRINCESS CATHERINE OF BRAGANZA MARRIED ENGLAND'S KING CHARLES II. ALONG WITH AN INCREDIBLY BIG DOWRY, SHE BROUGHT A BOX FULL OF TEA TO MISTY ALBION. THE ENGLISH FELL IN LOVE WITH THE DRINK, AND SOON DRINKING TEA BECAME AN ESSENTIAL RITUAL. TODAY, THIS RITUAL IS CALLED CHÁ DAS CINCO IN PORTUGUESE – 5 O'CLOCK TEA.

The tea ritual allowed the nobility to demonstrate expensive porcelain china sets and surprise visitors with a diversity of desserts. The Portuguese were the first to bring Chinese porcelain to Europe. Thus, Portugal can be credited with the world-famous tradition that the English are so proud of today.

OLIVE TOURISM

Portuguese olive oil has a fruity aroma, with a rich flavor, golden or yellowish-green color, and an acidic, bitter, salty, soft or intense taste.

Portugal is among the countries strongly influenced by the Mediterranean climate. Olive gardens dominate its landscapes. The diversity of olive varieties and rich choice of olive oils in Portugal are due to differences in soil properties and the natural environment.

While in Portugal, you can visit places where the best olive oil is pressed. Special tours are held in the following regions: Trás-os-Montes, Beira Interior, Ribatejo, Moura, Alentejo Interior and Norte Alentejano.

Portugal is the leader in the creation of unique varieties and combinations that are in accordance with specific harvests, timing of consumption, type of consumer, etc.

Extra class natural product – Azeite Virgeme Extra occupies the highest point of the olive oil pyramid. It is the pride of the Portuguese olive oil industry. This variety, which makes up only a small part of global olive oil production, is made with healthy, mature olives. It can be made only by a mechanical means, without heating, which preserves taste, flavor, vitamins and antioxidants.

It is considered ideal for salads and other freshly prepared dishes (soups, ragouts etc.). This variety of olive oil is irreplaceable, bringing a final nuance to the dish. It is also used as a bread-dipping sauce. Therefore, I recommend trying tiborna – toast with olive oil.

If you are unable to plan an olive tour, you can do a delicious olive oil tasting in Lisbon’s Banca de Pau store and restaurant, where they sell the best products from the Trás-os-Montes region.

Casa de Santo Amaro Praemium

olive oil is made from centennial olive trees. Tasting costs 5 euro. Each olive oil has its own unique fragrance and taste. These characteristics are determined by factors such as climate, tree species and maturity of the fruit. Tasting allows you to determine the three main features of the flavor: quality, acidity and bitterness. I recommend tasting olives with almond and blueberry paste.

Open: Every day except Sunday 12pm -11pm

Banca de Pau; R. Nova de São Mamede 38A, Lisboa

love diving in the depths of the sea will be able to discover a rich and diverse biological universe with colorful fish and centuries-old treasures.

The history of Portugal is also the history of the achievements of those navigators who in bygone times sailed across the ocean and overcame dangerous gulfs and powerful streams in order to reach the Earth’s edge. Even though maritime navigation is now managed through modern technologies, love of the sea and adventure is still in every Portuguese person’s blood. They greet guests with love, especially those who come from the sea.

SEA TOURISM

The long Portuguese coastline, located in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, is a true paradise for all those who love to walk by the sea. Here guests will find all the beauty of the ocean landscape.

The calm waters perfectly suit gentle swimming, and the large waves get your adrenaline pumping. The ocean displays many different dimensions of its universe and only those who truly love water can understand it. The beauty of the sea is the “constant magnitude" revealed in the glorious rocks on the shore or the sand dunes. One can find locations best suited for any water sports in Portugal.

Some parts of the Portuguese coastline are considered the best in the world for regattas. Hence, various tournaments and international championships are held here. Those who

Those who travel to Portugal on their yacht will always find a suitable gulf and port anywhere along the country’s coastline, where one can safely anchor one’s boat. The harbors have excellent infrastructure and a variety of services which will let you continue your journey of getting to know the picturesque Portugal on land.

Starting from 1 am on the last Sunday of October to 1 am on the last Sunday of March, the official time of continental Portugal and Madeira is aligned with world time. From 1 am on the last Sunday of March to 1 am on the last Sunday of October, Portugal adopts summer time, which is one hour ahead of world time.

The best “observation deck” in Lisbon is the Tagus River. The cruises on the river are managed by Transtejo. The first of the main tours, “The Sights of Lisbon" (20 €, departure from the Terreiro do Paço ferry terminal) lasts 2.5 hours. You will see the city’s past, present and future unfold in front of you. The second tour – “The Geographical Discoveries” (15 €, departure from the Cais do Sodré ferry terminal) – will tell you the whole history of the Portuguese Empire in an hour.

ROADS

The branching network of Portuguese roads includes various types of roads: motorways (AE), main roads (IP), secondary roads (IC), national roads (EN) and municipal roads.

A green corridor (Via Verde) where the necessary amount will be automatically charged to your card though a new electronic system is present on every category of road; however, this service can only be used by those who have a special green corridor identifier card. This card should be purchased in advance at Brisa's sales points.

RAILWAY

The CP-Comboios de Portugal (www.cp.pt) company operates a wide network railway, which covers the whole country and connects Portugal to Madrid and Paris. You can take a night train (TGV, Express) from Paris Montparnasse to Lisbon (Lisboa Santa Apolonia); It will take 20 hours and 4 minutes (including 1 hour and 24 minutes transfer time). The train ticket costs between 211 and 270 Euros. From Madrid, you can travel on a comfortable Trenhotel train from Recoletos Station in the city center to Lisboa Santa Apolonia station in 9 hrs and 38 minutes (including 2 hours and 31 minutes transfer time). Depending on the seat you choose, your ticket will cost between 72 and 116 Euros.

A seat on Alfa Pendular (the fastest and most comfortable train) from Lisbon to Porto or vice versa, depending on the type of carriage, will cost between 30.30 and 42.40 Euros, while the intercity Intercidades will cost between 24 to 35.90 Euros. Apart from the standard tariffs, you can take advantage of discounted daily trips with a “Tourist Ticket” (Bilhete Turístico). This will allow you to travel to Lisbon’s suburbs (Lines: Sintra / Azambuja, Cascais and Sado) and Porto (lines: Aveiro, Braga, Guimaraes and Marco de Canaveses). One can also purchase a beach ticket (Bilhete Praia) that allows you to travel to the nearest beaches from Lisbon, Porto and Coimbra.

RENTING A CAR

Everyone who has a valid ID card can rent a car in Portugal (an ID card for a European citizen or a foreign passport for a citizen from another country); one must only present a driver's license with at least one year of driving experience having passed.

BUSES

All Portuguese towns, villages and main settlements are connected via regular bus routes. You can find additional information on routes, schedules, and current travel rates on the National Express Network website www.rede-expressos.pt.

DRIVING A CAR

In Portugal, they drive on the right-hand side of the road. Traffic signs in Portugal are in accordance with international standards. Seat belts are mandatory. You should always carry the following documents: identity document; driver’s license; insurance certificate; vehicle registration certificate or comparable and vehicle identification document (technical passport) or comparable. Those caught without these documents will be asked to pay an immediate fine.

Ponta Delgada

Madeira

Açores

THALASSOTHERAPY

Marina Kipshidze

There’s nothing better than old recipes for taking care of your health and mood and avoiding everyday routine. Nature offers ingredients for this recipe: good weather, sun, clean air, clear waters, herbs and algae with medicinal properties.

All of these goodies can be obtained in Portugal, in spas or thermal resorts, or in the sea and the mountains.

Many wonderful health programs are available today. They are individually tailored to your needs.

There are many types of relaxation procedures available that are essential to restore one’s physical or mental balance. They include: traditional methods of treatment using thermal wa-

ters with healing properties and rich mineral composition; a thalassotherapy course on the coastal area with the Atlantic Ocean waters; and relaxation sessions set against the background of beautiful landscapes, based on unique elements such as wine, chocolate, and hot stones.

There is a huge selection of spa centers in Portugal. Here you can find natural “shelters", get “cured” from the “ailments of the modern world“, find inner calm and restore your energy.

THALASSOTHERAPY IN THE SOUTH OF PORTUGAL

It's no coincidence that we feel better at the seashore. For those who are looking for nice sensations and restored health, the healing properties of the Portuguese coastal waters will return their inner balance.

The ocean's wealth of water is the best place for coastal thalassotherapy. Sea water is a source of vital elements. It resembles human plasma and has a great effect on our physical and psychological health. Oceanic water contains iodine, magnesium, lithium, zinc, copper, selenium and calcium. These are the basic mineral substances of our body.

The use of ocean water, along with the substances obtained from the sea air and the water (such as algae, sand and mineral mud), have a great impact on the body. Programs include fatigue and stress relief, general recovery and rehabilitation after illness. A separate program is selected for each client.

There are specialized centers in the central and northern parts of Portugal, in Porto, Algarve, Lisbon, Madeira and Porto Santo, which carry the most modern equipment. Rejuvenating, energizing and moisturizing - these common epithets are suitable for all procedures.

Among the many programs available in the Algarve's attractive beaches, you can choose weight loss or leg muscle tone improvement methods. Your body will thank you for

this, and the sunny days will become exceptionally beautiful for you.

Due to the iodine, calcium and magnesium present in sand and sea water, these treatment programs are an ideal way to combat the fatigue that you experience in your everyday life. Your body and skin gains a special brilliance due to the combination of algae, mud and sand.

Saltwater basin procedures are perfectly adapted to a range of relaxation methods such as aromatherapy, hot stones, yoga and meditation. Located in the immediate vicinity of the sea, all of this is designed to restore the body and spiritual peace.

DUE TO THE IODINE, CALCIUM AND MAGNESIUM PRESENT IN SAND AND SEA WATER, TREATMENT PROGRAMS ARE AN IDEAL WAY TO COMBAT THE FATIGUE THAT YOU EXPERIENCE IN YOUR EVERYDAY LIFE. YOUR BODY AND SKIN GAINS A SPECIAL BRILLIANCE DUE TO THE COMBINATION OF ALGAE, MUD AND SAND.

THERMAL SPRINGS OF CENTRAL PORTUGAL

The best sensations are ensured even after a few days attending thermal resorts. Central Portugal offers a great choice of thermal procedures. Thanks to its geological features, this region is saturated with thermal springs. Hot, clean water produced in the depths of the Earth have a rich chemical and mineral composition. They cure various diseases. We will present some key resorts, though this region holds so many springs – it is as if nature is calling us to find them and relax in their calm environment.

TERMAS DO LUSO

This thermal spring resort was built in 1852. Some of the historic buildings still remain intact. Serra do Buçaco is surrounded by beautiful forests covering the mountains. Termas do Luso offers a classical thermal water program, spa center cosmetic procedures and drinkable minerals for the treatment of cardiovascular diseases and the musculoskeletal system.

AQUADOME

This spa center, located on Unhais da Serra, is the only mountain spa resort in Portugal. It was created for health recovery, disease prevention and self-improvement. It offers various activities in the open air to improve your physical condition and restore your mental balance.

TERMAS DE SÃO PEDRO DO SUL

This balneological station has a long history. Artefacts found here indicate that the Ancient Romans used thermal water 2,000 years ago, and King Afonsu Henriques, the first king of united Portugal, came for treatment in the XII century. Today, the station is equipped with the latest equipment and offers a wide range of procedures.

CALDAS DA FELGUEIRA

This beautiful resort, located close to Nelas, is a quiet place in the Mondego River valley. The landscape is in perfect harmony with a range of health rituals, ensuring a good mood for all visitors. The resort offers a variety of programs for combating stress and restoring one’s spiritual health.

VILALARA THALASSA RESORT

This thalassotherapy center is one of the best in Europe. The sophisticated five-star hotel complex is part of the Accor group and satisfies all the requirements of the International Federation of Thalassotherapy.

A high-quality service is guaranteed by the medical personnel, including osteopaths, hydrotherapists, and physiotherapists. These people are the best thalassotherapy professionals.

Weight-loss programs, anti-tobacco treatment programs, leg muscle tone-enhancement treatments and others are worth mentioning alongside the traditional programs. The so-called basic complex includes body shape improvement and cosmetic procedures. The spa center offers “à la carte” procedures that include osteopathy treatment, shiatsu massage, reiki massage and tai chi exercises.

Praia das Gaivotas, Alporchinhos, Porches

BALNEOLOGICAL RESORTS IN PORTUGAL AND NORTH PORTUGAL

Balneological resorts are considered to be the greatest treasure of the region. Some springs reach the surface of the Earth at high temperatures, and their therapeutic effects are widely recognized. The medicinal properties of these springs have been known since ancient times; these include thermal resorts such as Termas de Caldelas, São Vicente, Taipas and Chaves. The latter was named after the Roman Emperor Flavio Vespertinus (Aquae Flaviae) who used the healing properties of these waters 2,000 years ago to cure his legions. Other sources (Caldas da Saúde and Caldas de Aregos) gained popularity in the medieval period.

While these balneological stations are still primarily used for their healing mineral properties, there are special programs to improve one’s body tone and mood. The procedures include showers, baths, massages and more. In these ultra comfortable spaces, you will find long or short programs that promise you relaxation, health restoration, a better mood, beauty and many other good things.

The northern Portuguese resorts are ideal for improving the quality of your life, for overcoming stress, and for relaxation. You will find yourself in an atmosphere that is full of inspiration and tranquility.

Several resorts in the Minho green area and the National Park are a real paradise. These places offer a primal beauty and innovation. Some of the modern spa centers were built by world-renowned architects, including Siza Vieira (Termas de Pedras Salgadas and Spa de Vidago); some resorts are located in the vicinity of historic sights or can be found in the midst of a lush green environment. These resorts are comfortable “shelters” that restore your energy.

SIX SENSES DOURO VALLEY

The XIX-century building stands on the mountain, overlooking the picturesque gardens and vineyards of the Douro valley. A balneological resort recently opened in this building. Guests are offered spa procedures, wine tasting and an outdoor infinity pool.

The interior of the Six Senses Douro Valley hotel perfectly combines sophistication with the historic traditions of the region, and the decor is made of natural wood and stone materials.

The collection of wine, which is owned by two managers, includes more than 750 brands of different ages and regions. Restaurant Vale Abraão, with its open kitchen and wooden oven, offers local and international cuisine.

Fresh air flows through the hotel, which covers 8 hectares. There are several relaxation and meditation zones surrounded by forests and organic vegetable gardens.

The Spa Salon at Six Senses has ten treatment rooms. It offers various concepts, including recreational and yoga programs, wine and grape spa procedures.

Guests can enjoy the heated indoor pool and hydro massages, aroma-saunas, arctic showers, soft waterbeds and a library. Six Senses Douro Valley is 127 miles from Porto International Airport.

Quinta de Vale Abraão – Samodães 5100-758 Lamego

MADEIRA

AN ISLAND WITHOUT BEACHES

TEA GVASALIA

About five million years ago, a powerful volcanic eruption occurred in the Atlantic Ocean,

…And a new unnamed archipelago appeared on our planet, inhabited at that time by the ancestors of the dinosaurs. The archipelago was covered with impassable forests. It patiently awaited the explorers until the 15th century. Based on the archipelago’s geographical location, they had to be Spanish or Portuguese.

The Portuguese were luckier that time. In 1418, João Gonçalves Zarco and Tristão Vaz Teixeira – Prince Henry the Navigator’s two captains – explored the coast of Africa. During their ventures, they were caught in a storm and found a foreign island. They named the island Porto Santo, and reported their discoveries to the king upon their return home.

The overjoyed prince urgently sent colonizers to assimilate the new territories. Two years later, the same Gonçalves Zarco was walking down the island's coast when he spotted a long dark cloud that lay across the horizon. For eight days he waited for it to scatter; on the ninth day he ven -

tured towards the mysterious cloud with his sailors, discovered a new island all covered with forest which he called Madeira – a tree (timber).

According to legend, if took them seven years to burn down the forest and make it habitable. On the freedup lands, the Portuguese first planted wheat, and then sugar cane. Thanks to this sugar culture, which was valued as high as gold at that time, Madeira flourished.

NINETEENTH-CENTURY DOCTORS NOTED THE ISLAND’S THERAPEUTIC CLIMATE, WHICH LED THE EUROPEAN BEAU-MONDE TO SWITCH FROM THE FRENCH RIVIERA TO MADEIRA.

Today, Madeira is a tourist paradise and acclaimed as the safest place to live in the world. Due to its perfect climate (winter temperatures of 18 degrees and summer of 28-33 degrees on average), the flow of tourists does not stop on the island in any season of the year, especially since an international airport was built in its capital city of Funchal.

Madeira has no beaches that tourists usually like. The coast is narrow and rocky, but almost every hotel has a pool, spa and all the goodies that a person needs for relaxation.

In 2010, in order to make the historic district more beautiful, the City Hall decided to paint the doors of the 170 houses on Santa Maria Street. The experiment proved successful. Tourists love the painted doors as well as the menus of small restaurants located in that area.

Due to the abundance of flowers, Madeira is often called the floating garden. There are so many exotic flowers of amazing beauty here that a special holiday is held here in early April when the city streets are covered with floral carpets.

Madeira is a mountainous island. There are ropeways leading to several notable sights so that tourists do not get tired hiking. One of the main places to visit is the Virgin Mary Church. To reach it, you will need to travel in a cable car for 11 minutes at 600m altitude.

If you are fit, enjoy active rest and mountain hiking is your hobby, you must visit the Levadas. The Levadas are old water channels that criss-cross the island. In olden times, these channels were used to supply the local population with drinking water; today they have been turned into tourist trails.

Toboggan – a sledge chain with wooden handles - was once the main mean of transportation for the inhabitants of Madeira: they mounted it to descend the slopes to Funchal.

Today, tobogganing is a way to entertain travelers who have come to visit the tropical gardens of the Monte Mountain. Traditionally, they are driven by men dressed in white costumes, straw hats and rubber boots; a ticket to the city center costs 15 € per person.

SOCCER FANS KNOW VERY WELL THAT PORTUGAL’S PRIDE, CRISTIANO RONALDO, WAS BORN AND RAISED ON MADEIRA. FUNCHAL AIRPORT IS NAMED AFTER HIM.

MERCADO DE LOS LAVRADORES

Thanks to its fertile land and subtropical climate, Portugal grows numerous varieties of fruit and vegetables, which are offered at lower than regular European prices.

Along the way, you can see old-style, straw-covered Madeira huts; enjoy magnificent views; and even reach the NATO radar site, which is located on the island’s highest point at 1,860 meters above sea level.

EVERY TRAVELER KNOWS THAT YOU CANNOT LEAVE MADEIRA UNTIL YOU TRY MADERA. AT MAX ROMER, YOU CAN HEAR THE HISTORY OF THIS WINE, AS WELL AS TRY FOUR VARIETIES OF IT. MADERA IS AGED IN SPECIAL BARRELS UNDER DIRECT SUNLIGHT, WHICH GIVES IT AN AMBER COLOR AND CARAMEL TASTE. ONE OF MADERA’S VARIETIES IS ENJOYED BEFORE DINNER AS AN APERITIF; THE OTHER IS SERVED AS A DESSERT TOGETHER WITH BOLO DE MEL, WHICH IS SIMILAR TO A CAKE.

If you want some refreshment while roaming the town, try poncho. You can find it in many bars, but the one made in Taberna da Poncha (Lage Serra de Água, 9350-309 Ribeira Brava) is probably the best. The main ingredients of the drink are sugar cane vodka, orange or lemon juice, and honey.

FUNCHAL

IF YOU DO NOT DO ANYTHING ELSE ON MADEIRA, THE SPA PROCEDURES AVAILABLE ALONE ARE WORTH THE VISIT. JUST IMAGINE AN INLAND OCEAN SOMEWHERE IN THE ATLANTIC, WITH SUN BEAMS, IODINE AND OZONESATURATED AIR, SUBTROPICAL PLANTS BLOSSOMING WITH MESMERIZING COLORS, HEALTHY FOOD, FISH FRESHLY BROUGHT FROM THE SEA, FRUITS AND VEGETABLES GROWN ON THE FERTILE SOIL OF THE ISLAND WITHOUT ANY CHEMICAL ADDITIVES, AND THE WINE. APART FROM ITS TRADITIONAL USE AS A BEVERAGE, WINE IS ACTIVELY AND EFFECTIVELY INTEGRATED INTO SPA PROCEDURES.

APART FROM EXPORTS OF WINE, FLOWERS, FRUIT AND VEGETABLES, ONE OF THE MAIN DRIVING FORCES OF THE ISLAND’S ECONOMY IS TOURISM. TRAVELERS ASSOCIATE A GOOD VACATION WITH GOOD EATING AND DRINKING. THERE ARE MANY WONDERFUL RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS IN MADEIRA.

RESTAURANTE PLANKA

Watching the sun set into the ocean from the terrace of the Planka restaurant is a distinct pleasure, especially if it is accompanied with Portuguese grilled meat, Espetada, or swordfish served with maracuya souse. The portions are big and delicious. After dinner, the restaurant owner will offer you Êponcha.

Dinner for two, including wine and desserts, will cost 90 €.

Caminho Voltas 110B

HOTEL REID’S PALACE

Surrounded by a beautiful garden, this hotel opened in 2006 and is suited to family vacations. It has two swimming pools, a relaxation area and a wide selection of spa procedures. From the hotel, you can enjoy beautiful ocean views. A great deal of attention is paid to the dress code here, so you would not be able to enter in shorts. If you need to walk to the center of Funchal, it will take around half an hour. Rooms start from 200 €.

Estrada Monumental 139; 9000-098

THE VINE HOTEL

In the Vine Hotel, which holds the title of the best spa-hotel in Europe, you will be treated to several courses of wine therapy. You will emerge with completely clean and rejuvenated skin.

The hotel's chef holds several Michelin stars, which means you are guaranteed to have a wide choice of delicious dishes after your spa procedures.

You can enjoy several varieties of the local wine, Madera, and enjoy the view of Funchal from the restaurant terrace.

In addition to the vino therapy, the hotel offers aromatherapy, anti-stress massage, a swimming pool, hot stone massage and other earthly pleasures.

Prices start from 160-200 € on average.

Rua dos Aranhas 27-A, Funchal

O CLASSICO

Enjoy the ocean views and try the octopus, used in many local dishes, oyster soup and goat kid cutlet. All of this will cost you 60€ for two persons.

Estrada Monum

IF YOU DECIDE TO TRY ESPETADA - THE BEST PORTUGUESE GRILLED MEAT – YOU MUST VISIT THE LITTLE VILLAGE OF CAMARA DE LOBOS. ONE PORTION OF GRILLED MEAT WITH SALAD AND FRIED POTATOES WILL COST YOU 15 €.

CIDADE VELHA

This restaurant is located in the old city. Here the seafood, grilled meat and desserts are equally delicious.

Dinner for two can cost up to 100 €.

Rua Portao de Sao Tiago 21

IL GALLO D'ORO

This place is a true paradise for gourmands and wine enthusiasts. A sommelier will aid you in choosing the wine.

The two-Michelin-star owner Chef Benoît will offer you delicious meals and creative desserts and after dinner you will feel fully satisfied. The pleasurable experience here is topped with the ocean view and refreshing breeze. Dinner for two will cost you up to 200 €.

Rua Estrada monumental 147

THE MOST POPULAR AMONG THE FISH ARE SWORDFISH AND TUNA, CAVACO LOBSTER CAUGHT IN THE WATERS OF MADEIRA, AND LAPAS MOLLUSKS.

PORTO SANTO

NO LESS PLEASURE AWAITS YOU ON THE ISLAND OF PORTO SANTO, LOCATED 50 KM FROM MADEIRA. YOU CAN GET THERE FROM MADEIRA, BY BOAT, FERRY OR PLANE (A FLIGHT TAKES ONLY 15 MINUTES). YOU CAN TAKE A CRUISE SHIP OR A PLANE FROM LISBON AND PORTO TOO. PORTO SANTO IS SMALLER THAN MADEIRA, THOUGH IT HAS BEACHES STRETCHED ACROSS 9 KILOMETERS. IT IS OFTEN CALLED THE "GOLDEN ISLAND" FOR ITS GOLDEN SAND. ITS BEACHES LEAD THE LIST OF PORTUGAL’S TOP SEVEN BEACHES, WHILE THE LOCAL HEALING WATERS ARE ACTIVELY USED IN SPA PROCEDURES. THE LOCAL HOTELS OFFER ALL OF THE CONDITIONS NEEDED FOR PHYSICAL AND MENTAL REST, RECOVERY AND RELAXATION.

HOTEL PORTO SANTO & SPA

You will be taken through ancient rituals in Porto Santo & Spa, massaged with hot stones, scrubbed with ocean salts and ocean-filtered water, and after you will be placed in a scented bath. For those who love oriental rituals, there is a Turkish bath here, and when you go outside, you will find yourself in an exotic garden. Prices start from 120 €.

Campo de Baixa; 9400-015

APART HOTEL LUAMAR

This hotel is located in Porto Santo, a minute’s drive away from the ocean, and therefore you will be able to enjoy the magnificent views. The bar in the open swimming pool offers a great variety of refreshing drinks and cocktails. There is also a sauna and massage rooms. Prices start from 80 €.

Cabeixo da Ponta

VILA BALEIRA THALASSA RESORT

Out of "Vila Baleira’s" 256 rooms, 32 are suites and 56 are apartments. You can have many distinct spa procedures here besides thalassotherapy. You can ride a horse along the beach, ride a bicycle on the mountain trails, and dive into the ocean. The hotel has a sauna, two swimming pools, a jacuzzi, a golf course and a tasty menu. Rooms start from 150 €.

Sitio do Cabeco da Ponta 243

VILA ALENCASTRE

This restaurant offers Portuguese and European cuisine. Their specialty is local swordfish with garlic sauce, which costs approximately 30 €.

The price includes a salad and potatoes.

Campo de Baixo

WINE BAR 3V’S

This space is more a wine bar than a restaurant. Here, you can try local winesPorto Santo and Moscatel – which will be specially paired with food for you: fish, pork steaks, vegetarian salads or sweets.

You will spend 40-50 € per person in this bar on average.

Manuel Gregorio Pestana 8

RESTAURANTE PORTO SANTO GOLFE

As you might have guessed, this restaurant is located at the golf course and here, apart from delicious tuna steak, chocolate desserts and vegetarian or vegan dishes, you will be offered several varieties of Madera wine. Prices start from 50€.

Campo de golfe do Porto Santo

O ROCHEDO

The specialty of this cozy restaurant is a seafood set served in a large plate with tomatoes and fried potatoes. You can try the wheat soup for an appetizer. Even though the interior decorations are dominated by grape vines and wine barrels, people usually come here to drink beer due to the great variety on offer.

Prices vary from 30 to 60 € per person, based on food and drinks.

COLUMBUS HOUSE-MUSEUM

On Porto Santo, they will proudly show you the Christopher Columbus house-museum. He traveled to Madeira in 1478 and married Filipa, the daughter of the island governor, Bartolomeu Perestrelo. His father-in-law was the one who had given him his maritime maps, which Columbus studied and which inspired him to travel to India. His personal items are kept like the most precious treasures. Apart from this museum, there are no noteworthy sights on this island, which measures 11 km long and 6 km across.

Dr. Nuno Silvestre Teixeira