B&B Tradeshow Guide THE ROCK by BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG

tradeshow guide

THE ROCK BREAD & BUTTER AIRPORT BERLIN-TEMPELHOF

04 – 06 July 2012

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bread &

Airport B e rl i

D 46 TOM TAIL OR

D 35 Desigual

Polo

D 40 Redskins Territory

D 29 G-Star RAW, G-Star RAW Footwea

Legend Restaurant

Cash point

Café

Shuttle Stop

Bar

Visitor Sh uttle 10 a.m. – 7 p.m.

Wardrobe M etro Mas sage B&B Publication s In fo Point Toilets Toilets for disab led Main Entrance / Exit Ticket Scan Exhibitor Entrance

Parking fixed prices & B Airport & B Cit y Shuttle 3.30 p.m. – 7.30 p.m. Destinations : TXL Tegel, SXF Schönefeld, S+U Alexanderplatz every 30 minutes Ta xi T. +49 (0)30 26 10 26 T. +49 (0)30 44 33 22 T. +49 (0)30 20 20 20

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PLA LUF

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U - Bh f. Platz der Lu ftb

& B u tt e r

in -te mp e l h o f

NTRANCE EXIT

ATZ DER TBRÜCKE

b rücke

opening hours Wednesday, 04 July 2012 Thursday, 05 July 2012 Friday, 06 July 2012

10 a.m. – 7 p.m. 10 a.m. – 7 p.m. 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.

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Welcome To the rock W e l c o m e t o B r e a d & B u tt e r

BREAD & BUTTER 4th-6th JULY 2012 AREA SPORT & STREET HANGAR 1 BOOTH No. S2

SHOP TOMMY.COM

PEPE’S ON THE MOVE.

DENIM BASE STAND D23 pepejeans.com

URBAN SUPERIOR MEN, HALL 6, SR38

Brothers & Sisters BBB’s heart beats blue! Denim is our religion. With the Tempel of Denim, we embrace the new denim rise ahead. Come and enjoy a path-breaking, breathtaking celebration in blue: ........................

DENIM RELIGION SHOW ........................ PRODUCT • PASSION • PERFORMANCE Wednesday, 4th July 2012 2 p.m. and 5 p.m.

Thursday, 5th July 2012 2 p.m. and 4.30 p.m.

at the Tempel of Denim Airport Berlin-Tempelhof concept: Wink art direction: And Beyond Studios styling: Maarten Spruyt creation: Kevin Power chef de cabine hair & make-up: Andreas Bernhardt supported by: creative consulting: Kees Kreuter soundtrack: Star Studded Studios

Denim Religion In cooperation with the

UNITED BRANDS OF THE DENIM INDUSTRY

Welcome to bread & Butter berlin I am very glad that you are joining us at the tradeshow for selected brands in Berlin again this season. Fantastic, international collections, exceptional shows and performances await you – everyone has put a lot of effort in! Take the time to have a closer look, as, in addition to well-known brands, there are a lot of new names to discover – fresh collections that are generating an exciting buzz in the business, as fashion is exactly that: a good mix of the tried-andtested, seasoned with a pinch of what’s new. The styles we are seeing on the streets are proof of the dynamic that has developed: the fashionconscious target groups are no longer committing themselves; they are mixing the most diverse styles and brands, across all segments, to create their very own look – stereotypical thinking is a thing of the past. Which is all the more reason for me to recommend you to take some time out of your busy schedules and break up your regular routine to view the collections in areas that perhaps won’t be on your list – you’ll see it will definitely be worth your while! Make sure you drop by the BREAD & BUTTER Treasury. The area has grown significantly and is offering a wide range of unusual accessories and non-textile-gadgets: all attractive impulse purchases that can generate significant revenues for you. And don’t forget to visit our new area, the Berlin – Tempel of Denim. The next denim hype is

in the air, you can almost smell it. Seldom before has so much being going on in the jeans market as now. A lot has happened, especially in terms of sustainability and production methods. What started out as a niche has long outgrown its children’s shoes. After organic cotton and recycled denim, environmentallyfriendly finishing techniques such as ozone, laser and ice-blasting technology are the next big topics for the industry. The Berlin – Tempel of Denim is a precursor of this development and of the hype on the horizon. We are showing renowned brands, as well as interesting and in-spiring ones, which are still small but are playing an increasingly important role on the market. I would like to take this opportunity to thank Alberto Candiani from TRC Candiani – thanks to his support we can give you an insight into the latest production processes. And last but not least: “Denim Religions”! Under the motto “PRODUCT. PASSION. PERFORMANCE.” this breathtaking show is an expression of our belief: denim is our religion! The roles on the market are being redefined and it will be exciting to see who will succeed in using this upcoming denim hype to their advantage. I wish you an exciting three days at BREAD & BUTTER. I hope you enjoy your time with us and are able to take home plenty of inspiration for a great start to a successful season.

Y o u r s s i n c e r e ly,

karl-heinz Müller, president bread & butter

Bread & Butter berlin

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DISCLAIMER

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visit us in Berlin

Denim Base stanD D3

www.alberto-pants.com

W elcome

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Partners & Imprint

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The Rule Breakers

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Moods of Norway pink is the new black 040 Wolsey code: wool 2.0 046 Joop berlin story 047 Floris van bommel shoeting star 048 Robert Graham a-wop-bop-a-loo-bop 050 051

Treasury Treasures

Content Bensimon a man around the world

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Selim Varol art & toys 064

Sahara Safari desert sand vs. animal prints

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Bloch street dance 071 Guess 30 years of sexy

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Blue Wave Rising K.O.I. green is the blue cool

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Momotaro nippon fairytale 092 Nudie crĂ¨me-de-la-green

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3x1 jean me up scotty

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Denham detail is truth 096 Mustang 80 years & a little louder Closed bauhaus reloaded 022

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T h e r o c k â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

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T hree A nimals french elegance 103 Drykorn youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re my best friend

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Sport & Street H ouse of Flora

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Manuel Ritz sharp dressed man 116 Wooden Radio Fine Ecodesign connecting people 117 B rooks Brothers exciting ride 118 Donkey Products high-level humour 119 Bread & Butter for Charit y laughing hearts 122

summer 2012 Street Fashion the zine 130 Boy comeback boy

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Cit y Dolls english countryside vs. parisian chic Ronin the man behind the rock Patrick Mohr the squaring of the triangle

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Flip Flop 83 gram summer 140 Desigual a kind of magic 141 JCDC never lose the kid inside

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Bread & Butter Media points Bread & B utter Media Partners Job R ecruitments Berlin Map S

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Areas , Brands , Ma ps & Trend Forecasts Enclosed Booklet

Bread & Butter berlin

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THE

RULE BREAKERS © photo: Uniform for the Dedicated

by LUCIE MUIR

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B r e a d & B u tt e r b e r l i n

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the race is on to find the best s i g n at u r e p i ec e s t h at pa r t i c i pat i n g b r a n d s

Having plenty of choice is key, as anyone shopping the various categories at BREAD & BUTTER will of course tell you. But for retailers responding both to a changing consumer and a changing retail environment where the Internet has torn up the rulebook, how are today’s consumers buying? For many it seems, sometimes it pays to break a few fashion rules. Pairing Adidas’ limited edition sneakers with a sleek Drykorn suit, PRPS jeans with elegant brogues by Trickers… or how about a tailormade chambray shirt by Salvatore Piccolo teamed with chino pants by Closed? The same goes for womenswear, where punks wear “preppie-chic” and actual “preppies” give things a rock ‘n’ roll spin. Suffice to say the boundaries between brand pairings and traditional trends are increasingly blurred. Nowhere is this “mix & match” mentality more evident this season than at BREAD & BUTTER, or in this instance, the contemporary grouping, which includes Urban Superior, Fashion Now and Style Society. With so many categories to explore, this year’s marketing theme “The Rock” couldn’t be a more apt title. Where else can you get a better vantage point on such an eclectic mix of trends than here at BREAD & BUTTER. Overall, the three-day event is as a huge catwalk. It’s a place where thousands of people from the four corners of the world can congregate. Nowhere else could you observe so many different looks and styles! B&B is a true lifestyle experience, which makes its mark on world fashion each season. Visitors pick up ideas and translate

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them into their business, which aren’t necessarily fashion stores. “Inspiration” and “instinct” are the buzzwords this July. With everyone having to compete with the high street heavyweights – H&M, Zara… – the race is on to find the best signature pieces that participating brands have to offer. Retailers and consumers alike are hungry for news, with increasing numbers of buyers cherry-picking select pieces from a range of brands in several areas. There are no boundaries here either. After all there’s fun to be had in creating novel store displays with labels, which might never have been paired before. Just ask Karl-Heinz Müller, B&B President, who is the first to note a shift in buying patterns at the show. “Visitors are spending more time at B&B The rock —

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h av e to o f f e r .

to visit all areas,” he says. “This goes beyond the fashion-related areas like ‘Fashion Now’, ‘Style Society’, ‘Urban Superior Men & Women’ – ‘L.O.C.K.’ as well as the ‘Denim Base’ and even edgier segments such as ‘Sport & Street’ and ‘Street Fashion’ are increasingly busy.” How so? “Areas such as these are not just attracting retailers who are specialised in these styles. ‘Treasury’, which was only started one season ago has become more popular – as accessories are having a big impact on looks as well as in novel store displays. No one shuts himself off anymore – no discipline stands for itself.” Daniel Werner, Store Manager of 14 oz. Berlin takes the opinion that while every retailer has the chance to create their own looks and to inaugurate B r e a d & B u tt e r b e r l i n

their own trends, the trick is to pre-empt the customer’s buying decisions and to order labels which form a complete wardrobe. “As a retailer, you don’t necessarily buy what the customer thinks he wants, but you can succeed by cultivating the customer’s style and wardrobe, enabling them to become an individual trendsetter. I always consider whether we want to be a leader, an early adaptor or a follower. The answer is always leaders. We don’t try to discover the newest trend or look, we want to create our own authentic style.” With regard to his own store he adds “Brands that focus on a single product and become experts in their very own field are growing stronger and stronger. The customer, especially in our high-price 027

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women things are less “bling” and more “luxe” by way of great cuts and quality fabrics. These are the kind of looks more in tune with the international ready-to-wear runways – a growing source of inspiration for those showing at B&B. Giving her take on the trends which are filtering down from the ready-to-wear runways to B&B is Kate Schelter, stylist and founder of Kate Schelter LLC, a premier luxury brand-consulting agency based in New York “The lines between looks, preppie, chic geek, punk, and their appropriate places to be worn are becoming blurred, creating interesting hybrids.” For Sairey Stemp, Fashion Editor on the British edition of Cosmopolitan magazine, womenswear trends in particular are heading in a very interesting direction. “The dressy sports trend is something which is popular and on-going, particularly for the youth fashion market which is a big part of our focus,” says Stemp. “These brands can be innovative The rock —

segment, wants the best quality in exchange for his money and is increasingly looking to brands, which specialise in these particular items.” As for the show itself, Werner sees B&B as quite simply the most important event in his calendar. It’s a chance to snap up wardrobe essentials from brands with an interesting heritage. “When we look for new brands, we ask ourselves if this piece or brand has the potential to become one of the essential, timeless pieces in a well selected wardrobe. The products we order have to be timeless classics, which stand out in their authenticity and reflect a pronounced value and consciousness for outstanding quality. We also pay particular attention to brands with an interesting heritage, which are produced in small manufactures partially handcrafted under the best possible ecological and humanitarian conditions.” Meanwhile, the difficult economic climate has been a tremendous reality check for brands, suppliers, manufactures and retailers alike as they look at new ways in which to be relevant and unique over the coming decade. One way around this is to walk wider circles at B&B. That’s if you want to find really unique products, or so says Uniform for the Dedicated’s Fedrik Wikholm. “I think it is important to really buy into a brand. Just cherry-picking from one will generate a lack of confidence in store and confuse customers. At the same time I think it’s important to break boundaries, not to go with what you’ve always bought. Mix up the brand list and dare to create new looks using different brands. In short buy confident, relevant and exciting labels.” Not one for fleeting fashion trends he adds: “I don’t care much for trends. That is not what is going to make us all happy. Let’s leave that to H&M and other high street players, which will continue to dominate. For the rest of us, let’s just focus on brand identity, quality and honesty. Cool?” Love them or hate them, when it comes to getting a heads-up on next season’s key trends, BBB is the place to be. In the contemporary sector visitors can expect to see more dressed-up looks, albeit still with a casual edge, as we move forward into next spring. In terms of menswear, premium pieces are key, with a wider range of influences, while for

summer 2012

and reactive so it is always exciting to see what stories and trends they have up their sleeves. B&B is our first taste of the season and so it sets the scene for the season ahead and starts our creative juices flowing.” Today visitors make a beeline to the show from more than one hundred countries around the world. The show continues to be a hit with international magazines, blogs and trend forecasters who see it as an important fashion authority. Natalie Singh – Head of Denim and Youth at WGSN, the leading trend-analysis service for the apparel, style, design and retail industries, is one of those who regularly attend BREAD & BUTTER in search of the new. “We’ve been attending the Berlin edition of B&B since the very beginning, and have watched it change and evolve into the incredible event it is now,” says Singh. “We love the atmosphere and buzz that the show has – it’s always full of creative, like-minded people having a good

B r e a d & B u tt e r b e r l i n

“I think it is i m p o r ta n t t o r e a l ly buy into a brand.” (Fredrik wikholm, Uniform for t h e D e d i c at e d )

time, whilst passionately enthusing about sports/ casualwear. It is a great event for outfit- and people watching and we love the way the show spills out onto the areas outside the hall in the summer, like a mini festival. We also appreciate the time and effort that goes into the brand stands – the standard is really high. Lacoste Live stopped us in our tracks last time. Last season’s “Fire Dept. at L.O.C.K.” area, showcasing new, smaller brands is also a definite must-see for us. Mostly, what we like about B&B is that it never feels like work, it’s an exciting, fun show to cover (in a fabulous city) and we fight over who gets to go each season!” Of course it would be hard to miss the global phenomenon that is the fashion blog and its effect on the current sportswear trends. Moreover, the beauty of having up to the minute information on how diverse looks are being fused together in every major style capital across the globe is second to none. Nowadays, the fashion blogger’s viewpoint from the “street” or from the front row of a runway show is an instrumental tool for many a busy design team or marketing department. The aforementioned Kate Schetler for example, likes to keep abreast of the European street trends from her home city – New York. “The urban community is extremely savvy to the blogging movement and is therefore taking risks and experimenting – diversifying their looks. It’s amazing how much effort people devote to their looks when they know they will be caught on film. This is in contrast to just five years ago when seeing someone on the street was enough. Street style now has a lasting longevity in the public arena.” Joanna Tulej from Future Laboratory, one of Europe’s leading trend, brand and “futures” consultancies would agree. “The proliferation of fashion bloggers has certainly had a huge impact on the way modern sportswear brands are interpreted by the public.” 029

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“Street style has always praised the daring and the creative,” she adds. “Then there are the DIY dressers, who totally support the notion of mix-and-match, high/low dressing in terms of how consumers choose brands.” This is certainly true and while blogs may be a useful tool for any brand seeking creative inspiration, there are those who see long-term content as the way forward. Like thirty-four year old Siems Luckwald: he founded his fashion, beauty and lifestyle blog www.nahtlosblog.de in 2007. Following an initial foray into the usual street-style photos of snappy dressers, the blog has become a sophisticated voice on style, fashion, music and culture, with some 11,000 followers. Luckwald could of course increase those numbers, but is rather reluctant to do so for the following reason. “We would have to revert to what every other sixteen-year-old blogger in Berlin is doing, which is focusing purely on trends and street photography. We are simply too old to be doing that!” Fair point, especially if like he you have fifteen years of professional journalistic experience under your belt for publications including an editorial post on the German edition of The Financial Times’ “How To Spend It” magazine. By switching to a more grown-up tone, Nahtlos, which translates as “seamless”, is the only blog of its kind in Germany to run podcasts on iTunes. These include in-depth conversations with fashion’s leading lights and business leaders, as well as new names in the world of culture. “We forget that fashion blogs are a relatively new and just assume they have been around for ages,” notes Luckwald. “I think brands come to us because we are on the same page as them and we tell the fashion stories that the glossy magazines don’t want to tell. In other words, what people are wearing day-to-day as opposed to the kind of flamboyant looks you see in fashion shoots. That’s the beauty of blogs – they offer a great reality check!”

“There are no rules when it comes to putting together va r i o u s lo o k s .” (Rosie Williams)

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Luckwald also advises an element of caution in listening to what is essentially an inexperienced fashion opinion from some. “Brands are interested in selling their style, so they have to differentiate between street style, which so many blogs display in their posts, and what their grass roots customer base wants to wear tomorrow.” Rosie Williams is a freelance stylist who runs her own freelance fashion styling consultancy. Current clients include commercial brands such as Oasis and UK-based independent record label LAB Records. For the latter, she recently styled Future Proof featuring Kayne’s latest music video. “There are definitely no rules when it comes to putting together various looks – no matter who the client is!” she comments. “There is no such thing as having a purely smart outfit – or a purely casual outfit. The joy of working with young and fresh artists and designers is that boundaries are always being pushed and the “perfect look” doesn’t really exist anymore.” She continues: “Street trends will continue to develop and will aid the revival of classic items of clothing which can be incorporated into an outfit in new and interesting combinations. Style bloggers do have a huge impact on the pace of change with regards to street style and trends. 031

Style blogs are a great visual guide for consumers – especially when it comes to showing them how to put together an outfit. If a consumer isn’t quite sure how to match a pair of trainers with a basketball top and make it still feel dressy (possibly by adding a great pair of leather trousers and a tailored jacket!), then bloggers are often one step ahead of the curve. They will always be there to suggest new looks, and show consumers how to dress up (or down) items that they’d be too scared to mix and match on their own!” Marco Tomasi, Creative Director for Strellson Premium explains: “It goes without saying that fashion is extremely influenced by social media. A good example can be seen with today’s younger generation and how it has rediscovered tailoring from a totally different angle. Thanks to blogs and tweets, these inquisitive consumers go for more individual interpretations on trends and then make their own rules.” Tomasi also notes the rise of the “clued-up” shopper, those making very selective

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“There are a lot of buyers out there who need to find so m eth i ng di fferenT.” ( L o r n a H a l l , WGSN )

product choices, not just through information they have acquired on blogs but also on online retail portals such as Net-a-Porter, FarFetch and ASOS. With regard to the latter, the presentation of trends through their own online style magazines, advice sections and runway footage is instrumental in showing consumers how to mix brands and put new looks together. “Blogs and indeed fashion sites are very important and are going to be even more so in the near future,” he notes. “After all, they are platforms where the new generation feels very much at home and we can see that in our own well informed and educated consumers.” Just ask WGSN’s Head of Retail Lorna Hall. “Men aren’t shopping solely on a head-to-toe brand basis – but that doesn’t mean buyers aren’t focusing on key brands rather than taking a wider approach to their buying. The buyer is looking for brands that are bankable – confident from a styling and design detail point of view.” Not that this means they are suppressing experimentation of course. Buyers are aware that men are more fashion-literate and confident about their look, than they used to be and far more open to newer brands - even if they don’t want to change their overall look. They’re “new-brand-educated” because they spend a lot of time online allowing them to take some bold steps. That means they’re still adopting a dual approach – buying in-depth from key brands but also working with newer, smaller names. With women’s casual clothing shopping patterns, buyers are facing polarisation – the “flight to value” at the same time as the “flight to premium” battle. Many major retail chains are expert at offering value so it’s the premium end where the exciting things are going on. Says Hall: “Buyers are looking at a diverse number of sources, in what has become a very exciting marketplace. There are a lot of buyers out there The rock —

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who need to find something different, not just different products but different brands. Because of the Internet, shoppers can visit stores first but buy their product online, often at a cheaper price. To counter this, stores want labels that can’t easily be price compared. The shopper has to actually go to the store to get it before it sells out! That means a lot of buyers are looking for less-widely distributed brands in smaller runs.” We are also seeing increased activity from brands that invite customers into the design process and brand history – educating them about the brand in store. In this way brands are highlighting their quality and value in terms of design and also showing that they have an agenda other than fashion – something more meaningful to lift the consumer mood. Take the latest retail initiatives in London, starting with BOXPARK where many brands showing at B&B have set up shop here. As the world’s first pop-up mall it has secured its current Shoreditch location for the next five years. It carries a great mix of independent fashion and lifestyle brands, while the real talking point is the retail space itself. Set on disused railway land right B r e a d & B u tt e r b e r l i n

on the edge of the financial district, BOXPARK is made up of a series of corrugated shipping containers – each one stripped to create unique, low cost, “box shops.” As Company Director, Roger Wade says, “BOXPARK isn’t just for shopping. It’s a place to drop in and hang out. It’s what a real brand experience should be all about.” Wade, who has a fascination with large open spaces and architecture, especially loves B&B’s show grounds, having attended every edition since the show’s inception. He is also hungry for more specialist products and is looking forward to seeing an even more diverse mix of brands at the show. “A lot of independent brands have been squeezed out of the market place – especially here in the UK,” says Wade. “Brands were looking for a home that was different to the high street. That’s why I started BOXPARK, as a place to group together small brands such as Abuze and Onepiece who couldn’t afford to have their own stores.” As to the future, Wade will definitely be upping his game. “Everyone is looking to increase his or her premium offering,” he adds. 033

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opinion, the cookie cutter model is looking increasingly tired and outdated. “Everyone is scrambling to keep hold of every single customer and cannibalising the premium consumer,” says Bickley. “Retailers and buyers need to seek out all things for all people, if the ‘physical’ store is to succeed against the digital shopping portal.” He concludes that adding an air of mystery to the shop floor or window will certainly generate the kind of buzz required to boost business. And it’s not just stores, which are capturing the consumer’s imagination. A relatively new trend is emerging in the area of PR and marketing. Here, fashion agencies are also adding a touch of intrigue to make their brands more visible. Cue the pop-up PR shop, which groups new labels into a shop-like window or store setting even though they don’t actually sell directly to the public. For example, London-based “Cube PR” houses a concealed showroom, which can only be entered through its frequently changing pop-up shop overlooking the busy Lambs Conduit Street. For the passers-by who thought a new store had opened, it’s a rather bemusing concept. As far as The rock —

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©photos: Superdry (left), Marc O‘Polo (right)

“We have to present a finely-tuned edit at BOXPARK and as a result will be re-evaluating our own brand list for men’s and womenswear. Our trip to B&B this month is all about finding premium brands which are fresh and new.” Elsewhere, more “feel good” retail initiatives are springing up across the capital. These provide a diverse mix of brands and those all important premium products. Londonbased “Present” for example, is an independent menswear boutique, located just down the road from BOXPARK. It stocks around thirty different carefully chosen brands including Nanamica, Filson and Lacoste. Each brand is expertly styled in a gallery-like setting by owner’s Eddie Prendergast and Steve Davies. The other main attraction, aside from the clothes, is the Prufrock coffee espresso bar, which sits in the entranceway. The coffee counter is manned by award winning baristas and is just one of the ways in which this store has lightened the retail mood and attracted a loyal following. Mat Bickley runs UK-based “JOYNLONDON” – a digital marketing consultancy for global lifestyle brands. He is in no doubt that there has to be more to the humble fashion store nowadays. In his

“ T h e r e a r e d e f i n i t e ly no rules when it comes to putting together va r i o u s lo o k s ”

©photo: Merc

( ROSIE WILLIAMS ) Cube founders, Mark Slaney and Caroline Lamb are concerned, what better way to shake things up and present a great mix of brands in a totally different light. As to how a brand feels about being paired in new and exciting combinations on the shop floor for the most part the feedback is positive, with many brands happy to be hanging with their competitors on the same rack. Take leading fashion brand French Connection. For starters, it sells a healthy number of dresses, which are a reliable and ready-made outfit that can still be accessorised to create a personal look by retailers anywhere.

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“We love that!” enthuses Will Woodhams, Marketing Director for the fashion-forward label. “Because of our quality, it doesn’t look weird when you mix a French Connection dress, or any other item for that matter, with high-end bags or designer pieces. We find it is best not to slavishly follow trends in store. By merchandising different looks on the rails we create a more exciting shopping environment that hopefully steers the customer towards trying something new. While we like to offer guidance on looks, it’s really down to each individual’s personal interpretation.” Andy Tompsett, head of sales at Londonbased Merc, also sees mixing and matching brands to create new looks in store as a good thing. He prefers to throw out the rulebook when it comes to visual marketing. It’s this rebellious attitude, which comes into full force in the Merc stores. From London’s Carnaby Street to Perpignan in France, its seasonal trend stories are mixed up depending on local interest and core pieces and he is more than happy for Merc to sit alongside the competition.

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“ F o r t h e fa s h i o n i s ta , brand snobbery is a now a th i n g o f th e past.”

©photos: Tiger of Sweden (left page), Floris van Bommel (below), Gant Rugger (above)

(An dy to m ps et t, M erc)

B r e a d & B u tt e r b e r l i n

“This is what makes fashion so exciting!” says Tompsett. “Everything has been done before but now the consumer can mix brands and influences to achieve ultimate individuality. For the fashionista, brand snobbery is a now a thing of the past.” As has already been established, it’s not enough to have great product any more. In the branded market, you need to be doing everything right in terms of brand communication, store design, connecting with the customer and so on as consumers make more “considered” purchasing decisions. “We think it is important that shops create a strong profile – after all the shop is the brand!” says Morten Lind Sales Director at mbyM. After many years, the Danish label will be moving from the Fashion Now category to show in the Style Society grouping. “Buyers are looking for brands, which can offer a dynamic collection, frequent deliveries, good sale through, less long-term buying and more short- term buying in the season,” says Lind. “They look for specific pieces more than concepts. Still it is important to look for brands with a good profile, and where the balance between market level, quality and price is just right. I’m sure that showing in the Urban Superior grouping will become really important for us,” he says. “I’m one hundred percent confident that we will bring something completely different to this particular scene. I’ve always liked the dynamics between established and soon-to-be established classics and look forward to putting a new spin on things here.” Back at ground level, it pays for the collection to have a strong point of view, just as it is able to split itself into a variety of diverse looks and trends. Having a wide and interesting range is certainly the case at Moods of Norway where designers and cofounders Peder Børresen and Simen Staalnacke will be showing in the Urban Superior Men category. For them, signature pieces have never been more relevant. “Individualism is a strong factor in our designs but then it’s up to us to take that into account when creating collections,” says Staalnacke. “A brand needs to present a high degree of flexibility within its collections, so that the user can add their own touch and create different looks. People are mixing and matching more than ever. We really pleased about that, it fits with our ethos – ‘different clothes for different situations’.” Staalnacke’s co-partner also has a word to say on the subject. “As designers, we create whole looks and outfits which also consist of fantastic key pieces. It’s much easier for a new buyer coming to B&B to sprinkle their store with key pieces from various designers in order to differentiate. 037

However, it’s always worth bearing in mind how much you need from a collection in order to showcase a designer brand properly. And it’s important to buy so that you have an edge, a point of view and a store philosophy as well. You don’t want to spread the brand base too thin when it comes to the actual product mix.” Andreas Baumgärtner, Chief Operating Officer at Marc O’Polo sums things up nicely. “The trick of today’s fashion conscious customers is to play with the brands’ identity pieces,” he says pointing to Marc O’Polo’s sleek and chic long sleeve, garment-dyed sweatshirts, T-shirts and the coveted canvas traveller bag. “Every season we have to find our own inspiration and new ways in which to interpret Marc O’Polo. We are not a vertical retailer like Zara or H&M. We have to find the Marc O’Polo way – one that fits with our own values and ideas.” Samuel Ben-Avraham owner of Atrium, which boasts two stores in New York and one in Miami would agree. He can remember discovering brands such as Evisu and G-Star, in the early days of B&B. “It’s great to be able to cherry-pick brands at the show, but there are some negatives in bringing smaller independents into the US – suppliers’ costs etc.” says Ben-Avraham. “It can be very expensive with logistics and shipping etc. so I try to buy brands, which I instinctively feel are going to grow and turn into success stories.” In terms of US retail, the boutique owner notes that increasingly, things are taking a very different direction, particularly when it comes to investing in one-shop brands and looks. “There is less brand loyalty, no rules when it comes to trends – in fact in streetwear we are finding that our customers want sleeker, leaner lines, in addition to more prints and colour. Nowadays, our customers don’t always buy big brands and we find that we’re the trendsetters, the ones making up the stories, which are then copied. The beauty now is that there is a lot of opportunity for independent designers to break into the market, giving us more scope to create bigger trend stories.” And while Ben-Avraham agrees that this makes life more rewarding for a retailer, that’s not to say it makes things any easier. “I have to do a lot of homework researching specific products and looks on blogs, or online shopping portals before I arrive in Berlin,” he says. “Even when I’m there, if I don’t find what I am after in the halls, then I’m bound to see it being worn on someone at the show or even on the streets of Berlin. Then that picture you had in your mind of a certain look before you set out pops right before your very eyes!” 038

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ÂŠ photo: Uniform for the Dedicated B r e a d & B u tt e r b e r l i n

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PINK PUNKers M O O D S O F N O R way: P i n k i s t h e n e w b l a c k !

by TJ B R U D E R

Over the last few years, when you opened your (digital) newspaper, jumped on the SNS highway or just talked (chatted online) with your community of guys and girls, what did you see or hear? Nothing but doomy, gloomy, financial Armageddon, Mayan prophecy, end-of-the-world vibrations! So what do you do when you “just don’t wanna deal with it no more?” You change the mood by putting on your selection of favorite tunes or turning your antenna towards the “Moods of Norway”. 040

Three Norwegian guys, one mission. But how do you introduce these “guys” – their story is so positive yet slippery that it is tough to get a handle on it. Is it the “Heidi Meets Fashion on an Urban Happy Pill” story or are they the “Happy Kings of Juxtaposition”? Probably both, all at once and somewhere in between. One thing is for certain, though: a fashion label sporting a sometimes pink, sometimes gold, sometimes *&^*&^ tractor as its logo has got to have something special coo-coo-cookin’!! The rock —

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B r e a d & B u tt e r b e r l i n

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Heidi Meets F a s h i on on a n U r b a n H a pp y P i l l

The “cannot get more escapist than this” concept of “happy clothes for happy people” with a dash of Norwegian heritage is an awesome starting point and it doesn’t come as a surprise that the initial idea came to the three designers (Simen Staalnacke, Peder Børresen and Stefan Dahlkvist) after a few libations at an after-party in Hawaii in 2002. It was a sizzling idea then and still is now, ten years later. These three local boys with lots of globetrotting, international studies and long nights under their belt, have managed to put together a label which has time and time again exceeded the wildest expectations to such an extent that last year it logged nearly a whopping 40% growth in operating revenues. If that wasn’t enough, Moods of Norway has an amazing quarter million FB Likes – look out Lady Gaga!!! People just love the dose of happiness coming from the picturesque rural town of Stryn (population: 7,000), still home to its HQ and showroom. Rumor has it that even the models used for the Moods of Norway shoots come from that same geographic happy spot. A place that is home to icy glaciers and salmon fishing certainly has that extra dose of oxygen required to annihilate every trace of negativity. But all jokes and happy pills aside, the trio from Norway certainly knows what they are doing. Anyone who understands creative evolution knows that just “throwing” a few specks of colour on some fabric just doesn’t do the trick. However, colours (bright ones) are a very important element in the Moods of Norway collections as their favourite slogan shows: “Pink is the new black!”. Lots of bright colours accompanied by a bit of street, a bit of sporty ambiance as well as lots of urban/rural fusion coolness. Next to the obvious 042

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influences from all over the globe, Moods of Norway’s vast crayon-box-like selection of happy clothes always connects to its Norwegian roots. Even a complete national pride “Heia Norge” (“Go Norway!”) line including ties, bright red pants, shoes with red laces and a scarf, is prominently featured in this Moods of Norway’s super duper humorous “Grandma’s Webshop”. If the whole Norwegian parliament were dressed in and by Moods of Norway and while we’re at it, the rest of the global politically correct (!) posse, the world would certainly be a better and happier place. Being happy means living it up, not giving in and certainly not giving up. The world of Moods of Norway has no room for partypoopers but all the more for the wildest juxtapositions: tractors on cocktail suits, grass roofs on limos, suits and fishing boats in pink, being at the wrong place at the right time wearing a space-age flower-patterned suit when everybody else is wearing black. It’s all about bending the rules and doing what others don’t dare to do. The happy walk-in closet Imagine waking up in the morning and taking a stroll in your walk-in closet – you surely have one, don’t you?! If it were filled to the hilt with Moods of B r e a d & B u tt e r b e r l i n

Norway creations, you would always be set because there is something for every occasion, and for both the wanna be happy boy and girl alike. From formal to casual, from funky to craaazy funky, from top to bottom, literally, it’s all there. Looking at the selection of (knit) shirts, jackets, pants, shorts, suits, underwear, shoes and accessories, mixing and matching can become a permanent pink hobby. The Moods of Norway SS 2013 collection introduces even more exciting Norwegian fashion dreams to the world. It’s a totally mixed bag including a British tailored plaid blazer, funky coral coloured shorts, a preppy bow tie and made-in-Italy pink leather shoes. The options are endless, though. If you want, why not let yourself go a little and wear some cocktail tractor surf shorts with an assorted picnic flower suit jacket? No limits, right? For the ladies, there is just as much happiness waiting. How about some pink tractor and flower socks? In any case, knock yourself out! Be crazy and watch out for those hidden Norwegian Lapland pick-up lines. Man, am I happy !?! U r b a n S u p er i o r M e n : S R 3 5 . 1

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Mbym

PERFECT SIX by Danielle De Bie. Feminine, quirky and lots of fun – that’s the perfect mbyM girl. She’s a fashion lover who wants to feel sexy and isn't afraid to show it. She knows what she wants and will certainly tell you. She's on top of tomorrow’s trends and is always at least one step ahead. Of course she is! Since its launch in 2003, mbyM has been filling a big gap in the market with its high-profile, fast-moving fashion pieces. Six times a year mbyM presents its capsule collections which make the dreams of fashion-conscious women come true. mbyM provides the right look for any occasion by staying true to its guiding principle: wearable practicality, during the day and by night. mbyM juxtaposes raw femininity with urban chic, always with that unmistakable, edgy Danish twist. St yle Soci et y: ST 2 5

mexicana

Tex-mex to rock by Anna Frost. Tex-Mex meets sexy meets traditional production: there’s no other way of describing the boots by Mexicana. For over 25 years Mexicana boots have been synonymous with passion, rock’n’roll and freedom, as well as high quality standards. The handmade boots are meant to write history, accompany you your whole life and, above all, make you look damn hot! Forget cute, as these boots will really rock your socks off! Inspired by the modern Tex-Mex and Dia de los Muertos skulls the boots, adorned with either embroidery or studs, really look the part when paired with used denims or with a cocktail dress for a real style clash. After all, you never know where the evening will take you and which scandalous deeds you need to be prepared for. Always be prepared to rock the world! St yle Soci et y: ST 27. 2

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ondademar

Scheherazade’s dreams by Anna Frost. Close your eyes and let me take you on a journey to the Middle East, to the tales of 1001 Nights. Can you feel the heat? Breathe in the heady scents of the vibrantly coloured spices. Imagine the wealth of beautiful fabrics, prints, colours, patterns and textures. Now open your eyes and let me introduce you to OndadeMar, a brand that incorporates Middle Eastern folktales into our fast-moving lives. The 2013 Cruise collection entitled “NOMAD” includes beautiful swimwear, silk dresses, bags, hats, sandals and sarongs, inspired by Scheherazade, the Persian princess and mythical storyteller. The luxury brand was founded in Colombia and has since expanded its global presence. Chic cut-outs, hand embroidery from India and macramé, floral and animal touches are the perfect companions for every daydreamer’s journey. St yle Soci et y: ST 2 0 . 2

yerse

Thread WITH an ATTITUDE by Anna Frost. You either lose it quickly or you chase after it, weaving it in and out, using it to create something spectacular. Lluís Generó i Domènech has been doing the latter since Yerse was established in 1964. Now son Pep Generó is weaving the thread further to create the perfect symbiosis of tradition and unmistakeable design. The typical Yerse vintage look, bohemian style and easy-going casual feel of the garments clearly reflect the attitude of the wearer and are designed for a genuine, authentic woman, without the frippery or artifice. Here the spotlight is on a woman who feels unique and special, who embodies uncomplicated feminine bohemian and urban styles and appreciates high-quality materials. Yerse underlines her personal style without ever changing it. St yle Soci et y: ST 22 . 3

B r e a d & B u tt e r b e r l i n

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Wolsey

CODE: Wool 2.0

by TJ B r u d e r

With a history spanning more than 250 years, durability is virtually guaranteed. Wolsey was originally founded by the Woods family in Leicester, Britain’s hand-knitting hub in the 16th and 17th centuries. Still running the brand out of that same Leicester factory, it continues to inspire with superbly crafted menswear classics. Having dressed Britain’s soldiers, explorers, pioneers and royalty, Wolsey knows how to get it right from a functional as well as an aesthetic perspective. The 20th century brought some tremendous challenges for the world and during these difficult times Wolsey more than lived up to its responsibilities and expectations. A 75% share of its production capacity was spent on making 18 million garments for courageous British troops and their allies. The Navy Jersey was one of the signature knitwear items keeping the soldiers dry and warm and their spirits high. It was those really trying times that pushed Wolsey to keep producing exceptionally high-quality garments that were functional both on and off the battlefield.

There are quite a few noteworthy developments in Wolsey’s history, one being the discovery of ‘unshrinkable wool’. This invention changed the way woollen garments could be maintained by enabling them to be washed more frequently, resulting in improved hygiene and comfort. It also paved a smoother way towards creating clothes for sports and leisure: swimwear, football shirts, cricket jumpers, polo shirts, golf socks and the list goes on. Within the sports sector, Wolsey has manoeuvred its way masterfully all the way to the Olympics, making clothing for world-class athletes. Since 2010 Wolsey has been in the hands of the Hargreaves family who is still focusing on the brand’s inherent qualities of selective sourcing, craftsmanship and rugged but stylish aesthetics. So what does Wolsey have up its sleeve for spring/summer 2013? A cross between workwear and vintage tailoring, still continuing along the style code of military, uniform and the typical Wolsey sense of adventure. Wolsey — for all pioneers of life and style!

L.o.C.K.: L 1.2

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Joop

BERLIN STORY

b y D a n i e ll e d e b i e

Berlin. The capital. The world city. The myth. Since anyone can remember, Berlin has kept people in its grip – “I still have a suitcase in Berlin. It's staying there and that makes sense...coz if I have the desire, I'll go back there,“ sang Marlene Dietrich, who never forgot her hometown! The German design brand JOOP! always remained a Berliner at heart. Founded by Berlin native Wolfgang Joop in 1978, the label made a home for itself in the great cities of the world and yet always kept a suitcase in Berlin... JOOP! sees Berlin as its eternal, emotional home and bows before its founder, Wolfgang Joop, whose charismatic personality made a lasting impression on the brand. Today, in the Third Millennium and under new leadership, JOOP! is a modern interpretation of what began in 1978. In its newest conception JOOP! meshes passion, energy and creativity with Joop's Prussian values – creating a brand universe which embodies the complexity of casual yet elegant

urban life. JOOP! doesn't clothe people, it dresses them up, whether on or off stage – just as Wolfgang Joop once did, with a focused gaze but never with a raised finger. JOOP! collections are relaxed and unstressed. Deeply anchored in his emotional home, JOOP! has mastered the vocabulary of urban life, linking a light laisser-faire touch with big city elegance. The “Casual“ line offers favourite outfits for feel-good situations and unforced moments, while “Collection“ is perfect for the great moments in life – whether on the Red Carpet or in a business meeting, JOOP! is at home on all stages. Fashion by JOOP! always offers that certain something, but never too much – self-assured extravagance is the sacred mantra. JOOP! has arrived in Berlin, the suitcase has been unpacked; the famous Berlin nonchalance blended with German quality, spiced with a touch of glamour, eroticism and sexiness. JOOP! is a way of life – live every moment in style, just be JOOP!

Denim Base: D 2.1 & D 2.2

B r e a d & B u tt e r b e r l i n

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f lo r i s va n b o m m e l

Shoeting star

By A n n e k at r i n Lo o s s

He originally wanted to become a rock star and now he’s rocking the shoe business. Floris van Bommel is celebrated in the media as the “coolest shoemaker in the world”. Together with his brothers Reynier and Pepjin he runs the van Bommel shoe manufactory in Moergestel, 80 kilometres south of Amsterdam. Floris is the creative mind behind the brand. “What I love most about my job is creating. I love drawing, making music, building stuff, designing, writing, watching films, basically anything creative,” says Floris. Royal purveyor van Bommel had been producing classic men’s shoes made from suede and leather since 1734. Until Floris came along, bringing with him a vibrant mix of colours and materials: as well as coloured soles, bright zips and laces, he also likes adding lettering and photo motifs to his designs. Floris is bringing a splash of colour to the town of Moergestel and the world of traditional footwear. He joined his family’s company twelve years ago and since then the turnover has doubled. This success is based on solid foundations

and is resulting in some major changes. At the beginning of 2012 the shoe manufactory took full control of sales for Germany, one of its most important markets, which enables them to react better to the needs of German customers in the premium segment. So what is Floris planning for the future? “We don’t plan too much; we prefer to concentrate on making honest decisions.” One thing is important to him: “As a shoe factory with 278 years of history, we have to stay true to our roots.” According to Floris they turn down 99.9% of cooperation offers. “We could have had Floris van Bommel bikes, skates, clothing, fragrance, furniture… but that would just turn us into a mediocre marketing organisation and moneymaking machine.” If we keep focusing on shoes, our future will be much brighter.” But what makes him so sure? “I follow the advice of my favourite bands. Like for example The Ark, from Sweden, who sing lyrics like: ‘It takes a fool to remain sane’”. And even a fool could see that these shoes are made for rocking…

U r b a n s u p e r i o r w o m e n : SR 1 7

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Just a short flight from Berlin and many other European capitals lies magical Marrakech, Morocco. And with the arrival of Four Seasons Resort Marrakech, it’s never been easier to rediscover this enchanted city or to discover it anew. Come see a side of Marrakech you’ve never seen before, in the city’s only Urban Resort Oasis.

BBB SPECIAL For reservations from July 01 to September 30, 2012 all BBB attendees will receive complimentary breakfast for two and a complimentary room upgrade based upon availability. To make your reservation, please contact the resort's reservation team at (212) 524 359 200 or send an e-mail to: reservations.mrk@fourseasons.com and mention BBB or Bread & Butter. Visit us at www.fourseasons.com/marrakech

Robert Graham

A-WOP-BOP-A-LOO-BOP

by Danielle de bie

Robert Stock loves fashion! His appreciation of luxury style and sophisticated tailoring began when he was a child. And he also loves beautifully tailored shirts. Which isn’t surprising: as a young man he favoured the look of London’s worldfamous Savile Row, the cradle of bespoke, the “Golden Mile of Tailoring”. One could even call it a rags-to-riches tale: starting out as a stockroom boy, he went on to become a sales assistant at a menswear store, taught himself tailoring skills and became an apprentice trouser designer for Paul Ressler Ltd. Determined and confident, he set up his first trouser company Country Britches in 1967. By the time he was 21, sales were topping one million dollars! He sold the company after meeting Ralph Lauren, a fellow fashion designer in the starting blocks of his career. Together they launched Ralph Lauren’s successful Chaps collection. But after seven years Stock decided to go his own way again and created the sportswear line Country Roads by Robert Stock, another success

crowned by the Coty Fashion Award in 1978 and the prestigious Cutty Sark Award in 1986. In 2000 Stock spotted a gap in the menswear market and Robert Graham was born. Since its launch in 2001 the label has filled a niche in the luxury menswear segment. The prestigious line offers high-quality garments, conversation-provoking pieces. “American Eclectic” is the magical formula — a term that really sums it up. Countless styles, bearing the designer’s unmistakable hallmarks, all merge into one. Robert Graham is an eclectic universe with iconic fabrics and sophisticated tailoring, offering men’s sportswear, premium denim, as well as furnishings, accessories, outerwear and, again since 2011, women’s sportswear. As well as fashion, Robert Stock also loves Elvis! “If Elvis were alive today, he would be wearing Robert Graham for sure,” says Elvis Radio’s George Klein, Presley’s closest confidante, who recently interviewed Robert Stock on Sirius XM. No doubt about it: the King would definitely have been a huge fan of these exquisite shirts!

U r b a n s u p e r i o r m e n : SR 3 6 . 2

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BREAD & BUTTER - TREASURY treAsures

POM POM GARDEN We all grew up with pompoms, right? There’s hardly a kid out there who wasn’t condemned to wear a bobble cap! The only thing we really liked about them was the fluffy ball on top, the pom pom. Hong Kong born graphic designer Karen Hsu also loves the fuzzy bobbles and has opened up completely new pompom perspectives… Don’t worry though, the graduate of Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design hasn’t entered a career in cheerleading! In 2010 Karen founded Pom Pom Factory and the name says it all. Karen devised the initial concept

of the Pom Pom Factory after she became a resident window designer for A142, a womenswear boutique in Shoreditch. The beautiful hand-made pom pom displays caused a sensation and quickly became the talk of the town. Stylists, photographers and bloggers spread the word about Karen’s bespoke Pom Pom creations around the world and today her clientele includes such coveted names as Bonpoint Paris or Selfridges London. Forget about the bobble cap…

Pom Pom Factory shows how beautiful pompoms can be in BBB Treasury.

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inca starzinsky SINCE 2010, United Kingdom

inca starzinsky VuerichB.

Chiossi Cycles What were the most joyful and the most difficult experiences you’ve had since you started?

Slang Barcelona

The most difficult was probably trying to have everything made in the UK, as there is not much textile manufacturing left here, or in the rest of Europe.

Also, people in the UK seem to like to keep their supplier contacts private, which I can understand but it is very frustrating. The most joyful thing was to see the first products complete, with proper packaging and everything. I felt a very satisfying sense of accomplishment.

v.c. accessories SINCE 2008, Germany Zookie

Volkan Celik What were the most joyful and the most difficult experiences you’ve had since you started?

pokketmixer

Stoyn Ice-Cream

The most beautiful has been, and still is, when a customer tells you how happy and satisfied they are with your accessory!

What is your vision and mission? My vision is that the brand becomes so popular and well-known that everybody wants to have a limited piece of my collection but has to be prepared for it being out of stock ;-).

COYOTE BAGS

MusT Have, MusT buy, Must Gift!

SINCE 2011, CHILE

wewood

Matías Sierra & Florencia Tagle What is your vision and mission?

Votivo

Coyote Bags is a self-made brand which is inspired by the manufacturing principles of the past whilst meeting the urban lifestyle needs of today. We participate in the entire process,

focusing on each product individually, taking care of every detail and the quality of every bag, from start to finish. We also aim to reinvent the old way of making things, keeping alive the most powerful principles of simplicity, functionality and quality.

field notes

nach Jewellery

Opaco

MusT Have, MusT buy, Must Gift!

Braun büffel

MusT Have, MusT buy, Must Gift!

wemakethecake

Donkey Books

Oclock

my biotiful bag

papp up SINCE 2010, Germany

Cantemir Gheorghiu

my Closet

With “PAPP UP your life” we want to promote fun. PAPP UP accessories are a statement for a healthy dose of self-deprecation and more zest for life. Extensive field research on the Berlin party scene has proven that people

wearing PAPP UP accessories have more fun and more friends. A funky pair of specs is a door opener and breaks the ice. Striking, eye-catching, bright and bold, and of course made of paper – these features make each accessory a truly avantgarde fashion statement.

XXL Hardwear

Fredsbruder

What is your vision and mission?

le dd

HAY

Sal y Limon

palomar

Fashionology

my name is simone SINCE 2009, France

Caroline Castagna

rabito What were the most joyful and the most difficult experiences you’ve had since you started? Every new day has good and bad moments. Fortunately, there is more good than bad. But I have to confess that when Colette, the famous

SKIMp

IO?ION!

concept store in Paris, contacted me to sell my products, I had to read the e-mail ten times before it really sunk in. It was a great moment. And difficult experieces? Well there haven’t been any to speak of yet! And I hope it stays that way for a long time...

OBag

LAROGY

zwei

MusT Have, MusT buy, Must Gift!

airmici

boregart

Brandbook

Cover Lab

Atelier 145

archie grand

Case-Mate

Bread&Boxers

LAPàPORTER SINCE 2008, GERMANY

Ilka Brand Donkey products What were the most joyful and the most difficult experiences you’ve had since you started?

ESKA

The first orders from my online shop were just great! It started as soon as a few leading magazines showed my bags when I started. Basically the positive feedback

of customers who love the bags is the most beautiful thing to me, some even send me heart-warming e-mails. And a customer who buys repeatedly is a compliment and a nice affirmation. The most difficult was without a doubt having to set up the label without a financial backing.

drom FRAGRANCES

BOOKMAN David Axelsson What were the most joyful and the most difficult experiences you’ve had since you started? Joyful things happen all the time, like when Colette Paris started selling our product, or when Monocle wrote about us. Constantly meeting new people and extending our worldwide

SINCE 2011, Sweden

David Axelsson Gina Stewart Cox

network is exciting! Another amazing experience was our nomination for the Condé Nast Traveller Innovation and Design awards lately, when we were on the same stage with Vivienne Westwood and Christian Louboutin. The most difficult thing has been finding the right manufacturers.

aunts&uncles

kidneykaren

MusT Have, MusT buy, Must Gift!

KOTHAI

kusmi tea

lili radu

magma

Rosa rosa Maseda maseda

shoesenkel

MèDusa

Fauna&Flora

SUNPOCKET SINCE 2011, SWEDEN

Jacob Höglund

wooden radio FINE ECODESIGN

MusT Have, MusT buy, Must Gift!

Native Union What were the most joyful and the most difficult experiences you’ve had since you started? I was invited by GQ US to attend their April 2012 issue launch in Las Vegas. They covered the six best shades under $100 out of 300. The Sunpocket II Tortoise was

featured with 5 others on a full page. That was a great moment! Before this journey took off I had no experience in retail at all. When I started this project I was thrown into a totally new industry where I was supposed to know everything about eyewear. It has been difficult but so much fun.

triwa

MAY28TH SINCE 2010, CANADA

Agni Tilla What were the most joyful and the most difficult experiences you’ve had since you started? Overall the May28th journey has been joyful, especially as a result of all the amazing people that we have met over the last two and a half years: starting with my busi-

create bikes

ness partner Gillian to the customers with their stories about time and the meaning of 28th of May in their lives or our supportive business partners and other designers from around the world. The most difficult thing seems to be keeping up with the pace in which May28th is developing.

My stuff

RandomStyle

PETER IBRUEGGER SINCE 2009, UNITED KINGDOM

Peter Ibruegger

paperwallet What were the most joyful and the most difficult experiences you’ve had since you started?

TitiMadam

Joyful: As my brand communicates humour and charm I receive mostly very positive reactions – people love the products and appreciate the direct and

transparent connection to me as the designer. I enjoy being able to share an idea that manifests itself in a product that is accessible to everyone! Difficult: The most difficult aspect has been having to realize how fast my designs are copied by others in the commecial design world!

Ottimia

ODM

BREAD & BUTTER - TREASURY TReAsures

TAKE a BREAK TAKE A ... WOOUF! Colourful, original and decorative are three words to describe Woouf! Beanbags with a twist that offer more than just a place to sit. Woouf! beanbags come in a multitude of shapes and designs including a cupcake, vintage suitcase, hamburger, ghettoblaster and even an ice cream. Woouf! is sure to put a smile on your face! Season after season Woouf! succeeds in creating new surprising products that bring back the nostalgia of past eras. Collaborations with iconic brands like Adidas, Ray Ban, Google and Casio have resulted in spectacular beabags. There have also been cooperations with artists: Escif, David M. Buisan and Brosmind were the first to design their own Woouf! beanbags. All products are made in Barcelona with the utmost attention to quality anddetail. Treat yourself or your loved ones to the perfect gift of a Woouf!

Try them out at BBB Treasury… Take a break, take a Woouf and… Woouf!-up your life! 052

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y DREAMS

y PARADISE

STYLE SOCIETY | ST 11.4

A MAN AROUND THE WORLD BENSIMON: MORE THAN JUST GARMENTS

An inveterate traveller, he has gone from army surplus to fashion, from interior design to art, without ever veering from his personal vision for over 30 years. He inspires with a very particular lifestyle that is ahead of its time. Serge Bensimon gives us a warm welcome as always at his premises and lets us steal a look at his creative work behind the scenes. Everyone is preparing for the coming event that he reveals to us excitedly: “Passage Parisien”, an innovative movement that he has initiated. “We have been in this area for over 20 years, participated in its changes, and witnessed its evolution; this year, we wanted to bring it to life.” Around twenty brands responded to his initiative; with Bensimon, they will present their collections inhouse from the end of June until the end of July. Bensimon believes that fashion is inextricably linked to its environment. He wanted to share the very “Parisian” feeling with customers from all around the world during the fashion weeks and introduce a different approach to the new collections. “We are really motivated by this challenge! With some imagination and a lot of positive thinking, we could make things happen, and focus on the positive side of our trade rather than its constraints.”

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For a long time, this visionary has understood that fashion is more than just garments. Accessible and transgenerational, the Bensimon brand adopted a cross-disciplinary approach well ahead of its time. We trace the origins of the brand, one that explores well beyond the frontiers of the textile world. Going back to the roots of a brand unlike the others. In the 1970s, Serge Bensimon, having accomplished his traineeship with his father – whose success was built on military surplus imports – quickly becomes aware of the impact of military surplus on fashion. As the worthy heir of this tradition, he decides to found ‘Surplus Bensimon’ with his brother Yves. They are the first to refurbish uniforms and work garments before selling them as fashion items. Whilst perusing army stocks across the world, they come upon a huge stock of white tennis shoes. They then have the brilliant idea of dyeing them in a rainbow of colours. The product is such a success that they decide a few years later to create a model that is to become the famous Bensimon tennis shoe - the beginning of their international success. The Bensimon tennis shoe has become a legend, passing through the generations without gaining so much as a wrinkle.

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by BRUNO COLLIN

“ T his tennis shoe o p ene d the d oors f or us to the f ashion w or l d . ”

“This tennis shoe opened the doors for us to the fashion world. It is a shining example of our brand philosophy,” avows the creator. It has been the subject of numerous exhibitions and collaborations. Designers such as JeanPaul Gaultier, Andrea Crews and Fred Perry also brought out their versions of it, in the spirit of haute couture. Serge Bensimon tells us that a collaboration with DKNY is in the works. He’s a man of gut feeling and emotions. “You cannot work without emotion. It’s what drives our inspiration. One of the most beautiful emotions I have experienced was on the day that Jean-Paul Gaultier, a designer that I love and admire, asked us to collaborate with him on the tennis shoe.” In 1984, the two brothers expand the concept and launch the Bensimon Collection: two clothing lines for men and women focused on comfort, inspired by military style, the spirit of travel and the safari. Their success lies in remaking and rejuvenating military clothing such as jodhpurs, the safari jacket, shorts, the zippered cardigan, and jackets, giving them a ready-to-wear flair. The collections challenge the total look and high fashion trends by presenting clothing lines to be worn in either summer or winter, as the wearer chooses. The style is a sumptuous mix of styles and colours in a feminine spirit of casual chic, giving priority to comfort and quality materials. The clothing lines are produced in a wide range of colours and prints, and constructed with natural materials. The brand quickly rose to luxury status while staying accessible. Bensimon’s concept “Home Autour du monde” saw the light in 1989, an innovative concept and the first of its kind in France. It is the very definition of a concept store. Everything in it centres on a transversal approach. Conceived as a lifestyle that breaks away from the total look concept in fashion or interiors, HOME is a design space where fashion and interior design go together in perfect harmony. “Fashion doesn’t stop at fashion. Clothing, food and furniture are part of the same universe.”

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“ M y l i f e is just a c o l l e c tion o f ins p irations an d en c ounters ! ”

This is a place where all generations feel at home. Those in their thirties have grown up with the brand, but their grandmothers know it too, and the new generation have also grown to love it. The recent launch of the B.TEAM collection shows just how strongly the brand is rooted in its time. The collection is a new fashion line for teenagers, fans of the tennis shoe, featuring a mixed wardrobe that revisits the house classics. As the brand grows, its international network grows along with it. The French lifestyle crosses borders from Japan to the United States, cutting through Europe and South Africa. “Although we were already present on a number of continents, we wanted to develop our image beyond our borders. Our regular appearances at trade fairs and the support of our local agents have helped to reinforce our export strategy.” But Serge Bensimon has not yet reached the limits of his universe. The expression of his creativity knows no bounds, and other projects are taking shape. In 2005, Serge Bensimon offers his first two perfumes, “2005” and “1993”, which espouse strong values such as memories, generosity and comfort. They are sold at selected sales points, at the heart of the universe it embellishes. In 2009, the designer reveals another one of his passions when he takes over the famous Artazart bookstore and dedicates a new space to design, graphic design and architecture. In this legendary space, he creates a new concept based on books, objects and accessories and gives it his personal touch, influenced by his acute sense of fashion. It’s where he shares his favourites; internationally renowned photographers such as Martin Parr and Stephen Shore come to sign their books. In fall 2009, Serge Bensimon finally acquires a space where he can express his passion for art: the Gallery S. Bensimon. It is a place that lies right on the border between contemporary art and design, and promotes the work of young French and international designers. Four times a year the Gallery offers a journey through the creative world of today and gives certain perspectives on new European movements. It’s a kind of journal U r b a n S u p e rior W o m e n : S R 1 1 . 2

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filled with travel notes and applied sensations, permeated by the pursuit of quality in concept, materials and shapes. At this time, the Gallery S. Bensimon is presenting the work of Germany designer Tino Seubert. In the same vein, the Gallery S. Bensimon perfume is released in 2011, a pure and sensual scent and a new olfactory signature with substance. Lastly, an e-shop has been launched in order to stay anchored in the reality. True to his authentic nature and always ahead of the game, Serge Bensimon has come up with a new approach to e-commerce. The new site is a showcase for the many facets of the brand, selling not just all of the collection, but only exclusively available or prereleased products. The online customer can buy tennis shoes, a book from the Artazart bookstore or a piece from the Gallery S. Bensimon. â&#x20AC;&#x153;My life is just a collection of inspirations and encounters!â&#x20AC;? says Serge Bensimon in conclusion. He passes on his innate sense of beauty and of what truly matters to his teams â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an altruistic man to the end. During Bread & Butter, the Bensimon tennis shoe will be exhibited at a pop-up space at the Galeries Lafayette in Berlin. F or m or e infor m a t ion : b e nsi m on . co m g a ll e r y b e nsi m on . co m b e nsi m onl e b lo g . co m

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T h e A r t & T o y s s h o w , c u r r e n t ly i n B e r l i n , i s p r e s e n t i n g a r o u n d 3 , 0 0 0 e x h i b i t s

ART&

TOYS c o l l ec t i o n by s e l i m va r o l b y h e n r i k K Ăź r s c h n e r , p h o t o s b y J a n a Eb e r t

You will always need to put a face to something, always. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the smallest things you can imagine, or the biggest things conceivable. People, emotions, whatever. It only took forty one years for me to find a face for an emotion that I had always tried to picture in my mind. Passion is the emotion I am talking about here, and I discovered its face in the form of a guy called Selim Varol. And he did not come alone; he brought with him an army, of wonderful sculptures made of plastic, prints made from photos plastered on rooftops and bronze sculptures. He has even framed the actual rooftop of a favela in Rio de Janeiro that had been pasted with a giant photograph by JR. His exhibition is no joke; it makes you wonder who Bread & Butter berlin

the artists behind these toys are and what they do. They are our Warhols and Basquiats who have invented a new art form. And it is the mission of Selim, a collector of anything that appeals to him, to document this movement. It was in 1999 when he began his obsession with vinyl toys by New York artist KAWS, which he discovered by chance in Tokyo. And he has never looked back since. Selim Varol is a young guy who is originally from Turkey. It could even be said he is a young gun, as he is fast with words and with actions. He is also an enthusiastic gallery owner with a real flair for what and who should be featured in exhibitions and what will be at the cutting edge in the future. 065

S i n c e D e c a d e s S e l i m Va r o l ( 3 9 ) f r o m D ü s s e l d o r f h a s b e e n c o l l e c t i n g A R T

“ M y c o l l ec t i o n , t h at ’ s m e – my childhood, my friends, my heroes, m y r o l e m o d e l s , w h at I e n j oy, w h at m ov e s m e . P i c t u r e s f r o m m y j o u r n e y: at h o m e I ’ m a to u r i s t.” ( S e l i m Va r o l )

Now aged 39, Selim came to Germany when he was only two years old. Watching “Star Wars” when he was six somehow changed his world. He saw the film in an open-air cinema in Turkey: a starlit sky and “Star Wars”. That was all that was required for him to immerse himself in the world of modern pop art. When his mum gave away all of his toys when he was almost thirteen, believing that he was too old for them, he promised himself that one day he would get everything back. Everything and more… His exhibition, currently on show in Berlin, is vast, one vast togetherness of everything. Just one of the pieces would be the crown jewels of any 066

exhibition, but here there is room for smash hits only. All killer, no filler. He tells us that this is only 20 to 25 percent of his total toy collection and only 65 to 70 percent of his artwork. You will need some time for it to sink in that this is all one man’s collection. That’s if you’re not thinking that this is no big deal for someone who has the money to go nuts and buy anything they want. But this cannot be said about a guy who works his ass off to spend all of his money on something he believes in. That is where his passion comes from, his beliefs. And after a long day at the office with his brother and father, he likes to sit back and let his collection inspire him with renewed passion over and over again.

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s e l e c t e d p r i n t s o f S h e p a r d Fa i r e y

p a r t o f t h e Ka w s c o l l e c t i o n

Bread & Butter berlin

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this is the biggest exhibition of this art g e n r e to dat e , worldwide. N oth i n g was ever b i gg er or more extensive.

c o a r s e ja w s l o o s e r b l u s h e d i t i o n

Just some of the pieces he has brought from his hometown of Düsseldorf to Berlin are by artists including KAWS, Pete Fowler, Shepard Fairey, Futura, Bounty Hunter, Zeus, Blek le Rat, Banksy, James Jarvis, Ron English, Dave the Chimp, JR, Swoon, Jamie Hewlett, Mars 2, Phil Frost, Ricky Powell and many more. This collection is basically the who’s who of modern (street) art. Starting off as a collector of robots and little Star Wars figures to become perhaps one of the most important collectors on the planet is an art in itself. And, sitting amongst his huge pile of art and designer toys with a satisfied smile on his face, Selim is still the wonderful guy he always was. Passion has made him who he is and this passion has turned out to be an important contribution to the art world. It can be a wonderful thing, passion. This is an exhibition for the here and now, about the art out there that is just waiting to be appreciated. There is so much to choose from, and you can be sure that there is something to suit your

taste. Just because these artists are young doesn't mean they’re not worth your admiration. It just means they have fresh new ways of looking at things and seeing the world from a non-suit wearing, open-minded perspective and without prejudice. They are the future of what you will see on your kids’ walls and sideboards. Artwork that will be worshipped for what it is: quite simply art. Selim has now brought his collection of street art and collectable designer toys to Berlin. But if you think this is just another exhibition, allow me to set you straight: this is the biggest exhibition of this art genre to date, worldwide. Nothing was ever bigger or more extensive. Upon entering the me Collectors Room, the private museum of art collector Mr. Olbricht, you will start to see things you have never seen before and you will be confronted with ideas you have never imagined. But most of all, you will have your mind filled with new inspiration and new thoughts about street art. That is the true magic of this exhibition…

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Bloch

Street dance

b y D anielle de b ie

Jacob Bloch, a shoemaker from Russia, loved ballet. With fascination he would observe the dancers gliding weightlessly over the stage, rising above the physical exertion, gracefully smiling. When he fell in love with a ballerina at the beginning of the 1930s in Australia, his home of exile, he saw the other side of this gracefulness: pain and tears as soon as the curtain falls. He gave his beloved ballerina his word: he would alleviate her pain with the most comfortable pointe shoe. With this promise began the international success story of Bloch. For weeks, until he was holding them in his hand, Bloch obsessively worked on creating the perfect pair of pointe shoes. Just a short time later they were not only adorning the feet of his ballerina, but Bloch’s pointe shoes were also worn by Tamara Toumanova, the “Black Pearl of the Russian Ballet”, the world-renowned dancer David Lichine and the “Ballets Russes”, the groundbreaking ballet ensemble of the 20th century. And they are still worn to this day. Bloch has long since been at home on the biggest international stages

and dance floors and is one of the most successful shoe suppliers in the world. Ballet, jazz dance, tap, Latin, standard — Bloch has the perfect shoe for every discipline. The upcoming ballerina trend at the beginning of this millennium presented the company with a new challenge: professional dancers didn’t want to forgo the comfort of their Blochs in their free time. Enquiries for a leisure ballerina shoe came flooding into the London flagship store — and the idea for Bloch London was born. In 2008 the fashion line saw the light of day. Just like the company’s founder back in the day, the young Australian designer Jozette Hazzouri has only one thing in mind: creating the perfect shoe. She masterfully manages to bring the knowhow of the brand in line with the zeitgeist. The result is not only wonderful ballerinas but also wedges, classic high heels, ankle boots and jazz shoes, favourite shoes that you never want to take off — not only because they look so good, but also because they’re as comfortable as slippers. Possibly the most beautiful slippers in the world!

U r b an su p erior wo m en : S R 1 6 . 1

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THROUGH A BLACK-and-white FILTER GUESS: 30 years of Sexy

In thirty years the Marciano brothers built a fashion empire out of their brand, whose name – Guess – is known by all and worn everywhere, on all continents, and personified today by CEO Paul Marciano. The “Guess list” of ingredients for a success story: concept, products, legendary ads and expansion. In 1981, the four Marciano brothers – Maurice, Georges, Armand and Paul – decide to leave their native Marseilles in the south of France and settle in Los Angeles, a city they fell in love with while on family vacation. There they launch a jeans brand in the land of denim itself. The name Guess is given to this challenge in reference to a McDonald’s advertisement (“Guess what's in the new Big Mac?”). These are the same five letters that will soon be mounted on the building on Olympic Boulevard that will become their new HQ. The first product Guess brought out was Marilyn, a faded women’s jeans model with three zippers. It had an ultra slim fit and was so tight that you had to lie down just to get it on. This was the vision of the French brothers, who regarded their future American customers as aerobics fanatics eager to show off their hard-won hard bodies. At a time when the faded look was not particularly popular on the American market, the launch of the jeans was a challenge, more so when you consider 072

the unlikely possibility of young Frenchmen having any kind of sway in the original land of jeans. But the Marciano brothers were determined, and sent Marilyn to a number of big department stores in the U.S. The buyers at Bloomingdales were immediately taken and ordered 24 pairs. They sold out a few hours after hitting the shelves. The brand then expanded across the largest local retail networks: Bergdorf Goodman, Bonwit Teller, Nieman Marcus, not to mention Saks Fifth Avenue. From its position as an American wardrobe staple, Guess elevated denim towards the status of fashion accessory, giving it a “sexy aura”, broadening its scope with ranges of different cuts and innovative colours. Aside from the brand’s products, its focus on advertising is without a doubt one of the key drivers behind its success in becoming one of the essential labels in the denim universe. Whether in black and white or in colour, the Guess advertising style can be recognised immediately: seductive clothing styles within scenarios that evoke a story that is entirely up to the viewer’s imagination. The black and white graphics associated with Guess are “a reference to 50s and 60s cinema that has inspired me since the beginning. I want to create legendary images that will last forever, such as those of Brigitte Bardot, Marilyn Monroe or The rock —

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by BRUNO COLLIN

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Sophia Loren,” said Paul Marciano recently. His icons would bear the names Claudia Schiffer (“the archetypal Guess woman”), Anna Nicole Smith, Carla Bruni, Naomi Campbell, Laetitia Casta and Eva Herzigova. These were all girls with more voluptuous curves than generally seen in other models featured in advertising. The choice of faces and body shapes was deliberate, but so was the choice of artists and photographers who would become the ones to glorify them and embed them in the brand’s DNA. These photographers shared Paul Marciano’s vision: we can of course name Ellen von Unwerth, the long-standing Guess photographer, Daniela Federici, Herb Ritts and even Wayne Maser. Maser developed the first Guess campaign at Laguna Beach in California. While he was shooting the model Deidre Maguire, local police officers showed up demanding a shooting permit, which “ A T h ir d D e ca d e o f G u e s s ? I m ag e s ” ( R i z z oli ) , a v aila b l e in G u e s s s tor e s an d s e l e ct b oo k s tor e s in S e p t e m b e r

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the young Guess team obviously did not possess. A game of hide-and-seek with the authorities ensued, a story that Paul Marciano loves to recount as a parallel to the same “don’t give a damn” attitude behind the brand. “Wonder, passion and freedom” are his elements for the brand’s success. The brand’s ability to adapt to the expectations of its customers, as well as its solid business foundation, rooted in a powerful, influential image, are the keys to the phenomenal success of the brand, whose initial concept was to merge typically French and typically American elements to arrive at a typically international result. Since that moment at the beginning of the eighties when a couple dozen Marilyn jeans were sold at Bloomingdales, the Guess company has experienced monumental growth, with a turnover that has increased from six million dollars in 1982 to 2.7 billion dollars forecast for the end of the fiscal year 2012 (30 January 2012). Listed on the stock exchange since 1996, the development of GUESS? Inc. has been supported through licensing: glasses, shoes, beachwear, luggage, handbags and leather goods, The rock —

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G u e s s Foun d e r Paul Marciano w it h C lau d ia Sc h i f f e r an d Ell e n Von U n w e rt h

perfumes, jewellery and watches. The internationally renowned brand will be available by the end of 2012 in nearly 2000 shops, managed directly or under licence, in over 90 countries. Over the years that witnessed this extraordinary evolution, Armand and Georges Marciano gradually drifted away from the Guess story, and Maurice recently left the house, leaving Paul alone at the helm of one of the most seductive labels in history. GUESS celebrates the 30th anniversary of its delicious cocktail combining denim and sex appeal with the publication of an anthology of photos, “A Third Decade of Guess? Images”. The book contains the overwhelming evidence of the timelessness of the Guess brand’s imagery. The aesthetics associated with Guess seem to evolve together with models from the 80s who have been sent back in time to the 50s and 60s. And this was still the case, thirty years after the brand’s initial campaigns, with the special anniversary campaign honouring Claudia Schiffer, the historical muse and embodiment of Guess. B r e a d & B u tt e r b e r l i n

The thirty-year anniversary of Guess could not slip past without a celebration, which was held on the evening of May 3 at the Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris, with Claudia and photographer Ellen von Unwerth in attendance. The latter was the master behind the many iconic images of the brand, launched in 1981 by a group of brothers from Marseille who had gone off to California in search of their blue jean dreams, which they found waiting for them, stark and sensual, through a black-and-white filter. After its anniversary capsule collection, the most American of French jeans brands spoils its fans with an ambitious book that features over 200 photos (many of them unpublished) in honour of the sensual “Guess Girls”, including Naomi Campbell, Drew Barrymore, Carla Bruni, Laetitia Casta and Anna Nicole Smith.

H ot, h ot, h ot. D e ni m Ba s e : D 2 4

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More than 70% of the earth â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s surface is c ov e r e d by wat e r .

BLUE

b y E r i c M u s g r av e

WAVE

RISING

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Tides come in and tides go out, but the water’s always there. Denim is the like the water on Planet Fashion. Since teenagers were “invented” in the mid-50s, it’s been an ever-present essential ingredient for both men’s and women’s fashion style. And from 2013 onwards it’s going to remind us all just how powerful a force it can be. With the debut of Tempel of Denim, Bread & Butter BERLIN is announcing the dawn of the new age of jeanswear. The blue tide is coming in once again. There are very few fashion sectors that provoke the obsessive reactions that denim does. Maybe fine bespoke tailoring, maybe high-class vintage womenswear, maybe collectable sneakers. But blue denim jeanswear is unique for the extent of its appeal, its versatility, its practicality and its suitability as a medium of stylistic – and therefore personal – expression. It’s no coincidence that BBB’s timely, stunning and exciting initiative to relaunch the jeanswear sector is called Tempel of Denim. For its most devoted disciples, the blue cotton fabric wields mystical, even spiritual, powers. The more commercially-minded in the business, however, just give praise for how much money has been made – and will be made again – out of this reliable old favourite. Denim never dies, but, to state the obvious, it does sometimes fade away for a time. For the past few years, many denim sellers – but, it has to be stressed, not all – have had the blues because khaki chinos and their more brightly coloured cousins have dominated the bottoms market. But as sure as day follows night, jeanswear is on its way back, as the SS 2013 collections on show at Bread & Butter prove. “I am the third generation of my family to work in the clothing industry and you get to see that the denim market moves in five-to-six-year cycles. It’s now just coming out of one of the deepest troughs it’s been in. It is due for a serious

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revival starting next year,” says Nick Stavrakakis, London-based European distributor for Prps, the US label that has been one of the market-defining brands in recent years. Such optimism is backed by all the reports from the denim mills that produce the raw materials. “For four seasons, demand for denim has been going down, but the situation is a bit better now and we are expecting a positive trend for next season,” confirms Alberto Candiani, a fourth-generation of the family behind one of Europe’s most creative mills, the Milan-based TRC Candiani. Hamit Yenici, product development director of ISKO, a leading Turkish denim innovator, agrees: “We are doing quite well at the moment and our new collections have been well received. The women’s position, in particular, is better thanks to a demand for more fashionable items.” At Nudie Jeans in Gothenburg, sales and marketing director Andreas Åhrman is hopeful that talk will be transformed into action on the part of retail buyers. “Chinos have been strong for three years and the fall in denim sales has been marked, in both department stores and independents. There is definitely a lot of talk at present about the return of denim, but it has to be translated into orders,” he jokes. “I am expecting a good reaction to our new denim ranges at BBB.” If most observers agree denim is on the way back, not everyone believes it has been away. Charles Eisenhour, the vastly experienced executive with Pepe Jeans London, observes: “The main problem the sector has faced recently has been the amount of disposable income consumers have, not the demand for denim. Jeans are still an ongoing business. Germany, for example, would be nothing as a market without denim. But what’s happened is that denim has lost its way. It’s no longer the dominant item that sold all the time and never had to be marked down. Jeans can be

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“we are expecting a positive trend for next season.” ( A l b e r t o C a n d i a n i , TRC C a n d i a n i )

10 years old and people, especially men, are still happy wearing them. You can still wear your jeans even if they have a rip in them. Customers have not been buying replacement jeans – the ones they have in their wardrobe are fine. Especially as there has been no new trend for a while.” Alex Karalis, from Crämer & Co in Nuremberg, one’s of Germany’s leading jeans specialist retailers, is also positive about jeanswear: “Our shop sells 70% denim and we are selling at the same level as five years ago.” At one of the top Dutch jeans stores, Jeanspaleis, in Kerkrade, co-owner Roger Grivec, admits that chinos have affected denim sales and agrees that men are wearing their existing jeans for longer, but he states very firmly: “There is no life without denim. I would be naked without it. Once people have pairs of khaki, blue and red chinos in

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their wardrobe, are they really going to buy any more colours? I strongly believe in the 5-pocket jean. I don’t believe in these jeans with all the bullshit stuff on them. We are looking for jeans that are pure and honest. The fit is what sells jeans, not the brand.” Grivec’s comment is a useful reminder that it is perhaps the perception of denim in the consumers’ eyes that needs to be refocused. The denim sector has never been so complicated, so fragmented, or has offered so much choice as it does today. The whole spectrum is to be found at Bread & Butter, not just in Denim Base, which has around 50 exhibitors alone, but across both Urban Superior sections, L.O.C.K and Fire Dept. at L.O.C.K. in particular. European, American and Japanese companies each have a distinct take on the denim phenomenon.

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“It’s more about the look t h a n t h e b r a n d t h e s e d ay s . ” ( L au r e n c e Dav i s , C h o i c e )

Adding a new innovative, almost experimental, angle to this vast market are the participants in the Tempel of Denim, which include relatively new names such as Munich-based Patrick Mohr or The Rising Sun. From major labels that actually helped create the jeanswear phenomenon in their original countries, such as Wrangler Blue Bell, Mustang and Lee Cooper, to luxury niche jeans producers, like Prps Noir or Momotaro, the contingent on show at BBB is astonishing. Alongside major global players like G-Star Raw and Hilfiger Denim, and established fashion-forward denim brands like Nudie, Denham the Jeanmaker and Adriano Goldschmied, sit newer names like Kings of Indigo (K.O.I.). It’s highly appropriate that the gathering place of the sector should be the venue for the relaunch of denim as a market-making force. The market is, however, very different now than it was in the early 1980s, when denim jeanswear sales in Europe were suffering perhaps their worstever downturn. That situation was rectified from 1985 largely thanks to Levi’s getting a model called Nick Kamen to take his 501s off in a launderette. In our overloaded world of mass online communications, it is difficult to imagine anyone campaign, no matter how smartly executed, having that sort of seismic effect again. Yet the major brands still have some potency and their reaction to the new possibilities for a jeanswear revival will be eagerly watched. A further complication today that was not so well developed 25 years ago is the sophistication and the reach of the vertical fashion retailers like H&M, the Inditex group, Topshop, Topman, River Island and Primark. “The chains have been doing well ever since The Gap appeared in 1969,” observes Panos Sofianos from Tejidos Royo. “Brands are suffering now because of the success of the modern chains like Bershka and Abercrombie.”

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Alberto Candiani is of the same mind: “For the jeanswear revival, the premium end of the industry must take the lead because the big verticals will do their usual great job and steal their ideas.” Laurence Davis, owner of Choice, one of the best multi-brand fashion businesses in southern England, and the operator of a G-Star franchise shop in London, agrees: “My biggest concern is that the high street will ruin the revival of denim, which is exactly what they did with chinos. They have created a throw-away mentality among British men and youths, so now it’s hard to persuade them to spend £100 on a pair of jeans. It’s more about the look than the brand these days.” That reality is a real challenge to serious jeanswear brands. How they will catch, and keep, a fickle and well-informed consumer’s attention remains to be seen. What used to be remote and exotic, like insider brands in Japan or on the West Coast of the USA, are now found at the click of a mouse. While most agree that the denim revival is definitely underway, there is no holy gospel to be followed about how the market will react best. “Moving forward will jeans be a classic item or a fashion item? It will be both,” says Karalis from Crämer & Co, which sells a vast selection of more than 100 brands for men and women, including BBB exhibitors as varied as Cheap Monday, Dondup, Dr. Denim, Herrlicher, One Green Elephant and Scotch & Soda. “A 45-year-old who wants to wear denim with a blazer at work wants it clean and classic, while a 15-year-old wants a fashion denim line with attitude.” That versatility, that universality of appeal, is one of denim’s unique characteristics. It is why, even though it has been six decades since denim first entered the young fashion consumers’ consciousness, it still attracts new designers and ambitious fashion entrepreneurs.

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Amsterdam-based Jason Denham, founder of the fast-growing Denham the Jeanmaker, underlines that it is the industry’s collective responsibility to make jeanswear grab the consumers’ attention. “In recent seasons, yes, denim has been out of favour, but now is the time for it to be once again the centre of attention. To achieve this we need to see creativity in the mills, in the laundries and from the brands to show what can be done. That’s the beauty of indigo and of denim. It’s versatile; you can always come back to it. For spring 13 we will have a big emphasis on indigo as it is a part of the heritage. But while we worship tradition and love it and respect it, we are designers, not copycats. The 501 is a fantastic jean, but we don’t have to copy it. We have to create something new. The biggest crime is

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not knowing when to stop adding details. The truth is in the details.” Honesty, purity and truth are words often used to describe the upcoming directions in jeanswear. That plays into the hands of the premium-priced specialists who many expect to drive the imminent revival. “With the internet, people know what’s going on so fast these days,” says Menno van Meurs, co-owner with René Strolenberg of the influential Tenue de Nîmes jeans store in Amsterdam. “They don’t get fooled by brands trying to sell shit with big marketing campaigns. They are looking for quality and honesty and wellcrafted products.” Important brands in the store are Edwin from Japan, Acne from Sweden and Talleson from San Francisco – B&B exhibitors all proving that denim fever afflicts the entire world.

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H o n e s t y , p u r i t y & w e l l - c r a f t e d P r o d u c TS

“Denim is definitely coming back, but it will be led by influential retailers in 2013, with it taking off in the mainstream in spring 14” says Adam Jagger, buying director of Sarah Coggles, one the UK’s best premium multi-brand fashion businesses. Named as the “Most Inspiring” independent business by the Drapers fashion trade magazine earlier this year, Coggles does well with brands such as Prps, Levi’s Vintage, Nudie and Nobody. It will be adding Denham for spring 13 too. Underlining the volatility of the jeanswear sector, it dropped all its LA-based women’s jeans a year ago. “The business just fell off so quickly,” says Jagger. Laurence Davis of Choice agrees that women in particular are more interested in the look than the brand. “We have struggled to achieve any success with women’s jeans. In the UK they don’t want to pay £200 for a pair of LA women’s jeans when they can get a good-fitting jean from the high

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street for £30–£40.” “Women will buy jeans if it makes their ass look good,” states Roger Grivec from Jeanspaleis. “The first thing they do is turn round to see their reflection in the mirror. They don’t care about the brand, or the fabric or the weave construction – they are only interested in looking good. That’s why I still believe in the skinny jeans.” In recent seasons, the women’s skinny fit has been one of the few high points for the jeanswear sector. No one is predicting a decline in this flattering fit, but plenty are pitching with new ideas that take inspiration from the denim-rich 70s. “Some 90% of our bottoms are unisex skinny styles, but we have worked hard to add more distinct women’s cuts for spring 13,” reports Miles Gray, chairman of British eco-jeans brand Monkee Genes. “The Italians who have seen the samples really like the 70s-style with a higher, nipped-in waist.”

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Denham, which recently opened a women-only store in the Nine Streets area of Amsterdam, is developing a new interpretation of that other recent women’s favourite, the boyfriend jean. “About four years ago, the boyfriend jean did well, but since then the skinny jean has been the number 1. Flares happened in LA, but not really in Europe,” says Jason Denham. “For spring 13 we are adapting the boyfriend jean so that it is more like a ‘little brother’s jean’. It’s still like a male jean, loose at the top, but with a narrower silhouette below that.” Just as the male-female division is an important consideration to any jeans brand and retailer, another highly-charged subject for discussion is vintage versus contemporary, or authentic jeans against fashion jeans. At Royo, the head of denim design Panos Sofianos declares: “People are being bored by vintage, so there is going to be a lot less washing of jeans.” And Miles Gray adds: “People are sick of vintage. They want more fashion input.” At Volls in Darmstadt, another market-leading German jeans specialist, owner Klaus Volls is excited about the Kuro brand from Japan and Snake & Dagger, a British label that uses only Japanese selvedge denim. “I like the high quality attention you get from Japanese products,” he says, “but, as a category, jeans have something for everyone, from the dad to the denim hunter. For the upcoming revival, fashion jeans will be important. Consumers will need to know what the gimmick is. They want to feel secure, especially if they are paying a premium price, that they are making the right decision.” But the more purist approach still has its loyal adherents. Roger Grivec says: “I really rate Edwin jeans. They do a great jean at a reasonable price. Not 26 fits, just a good 5-pocket that suits lots of people.” Variety, as the saying goes, is the spice of life. There will be plenty of spice around at

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BBB this season as denim brands big and small show the versatility of jeanswear. “Everything is available to wear in denim fashion – from 22-inch flares to 14-inch bottoms,” says Pepe’s Eisenhour. “It used to be so simple with everyone following one trend, now everything is a possibility,” adds UK-based jeanswear designer Tim Browne, who is re-launching his own vintage-inspired Blue Collar Workers collection this season with an eye to bringing it to BBB in January 2014. “One important point for the jeanswear revival is that there will have to be enough difference between premium and mass market. Consumers over the age of 25 are more likely to be looking for heritage and quality. People want to make a special purchase rather than splashing their cash on four pieces that won’t last.” Retail buyers are likely to be overwhelmed by the range of denim options on show this season, with even more in the pipeline for autumn/winter 2014, which will be shown at next January’s edition of BBB. The consensus is that washes, in the main, will be lighter and will result in less aggressive finishes. Cleaner, neater-looking jeans will be the result. At Candiani, the Italian maestros have revived a dyeing technique from the 80s that sees the cotton fibres stretched in parallel alongside each other, rather than being dip-dyed in ropes, as is the usual indigo-dyeing technique. “The effect is less authentic-looking indigo denim but the process uses much less water. Also the indigo sits more superficially on the fibre, so it ages more quickly when worn,” says Alberto Candiani. In Turkey, Hamit Yenici from ISKO agrees with the trend towards lighter washes and even coloured denims (which can compete, of course, with coloured chinos). He reports: “There’s not so much news on guys’ fabrics, but there are a lot of innovations to enable extreme skinny fits and softer touch fabrics for girls. The market is looking for

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“j e a n s h av e s o m e t h i n g f o r e v e ryo n e , from the dad to the denim hunter.” (Klaus Voll , Volls)

better and better stretch denims that keep their shape and recover well.” The stretch phenomenon is giving denim designers plenty of opportunity to display their ingenuity. Candiani has a quality called Sling. Alberto Candiani describes it as “superperformance”. This technically advanced fabric combines two different types of elastomers – the fibres that provide the stretch – each representing 5% of the fibre content. It is an encouraging example of how market demand is stimulating technical innovation, which in turn re-invigorates the retail demand. Royo is also adding colour to denim; its palette for spring 13 is derived from brightly painted murals in Rio’s favela slums. Special constructions will produce three-dimensional effects, such as pronounced twills. And Panos Sofianos also believes strongly in polyurethane and resin coatings that give the jeans a leathery aspect or imbue them

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with a metallic surface finish. “Our customers want to see more details on their jeans, inside-out fabric treatments, laser work, patching…,” he explains. Blue is the true denim colour, but the spectrum is wide for the new season. “At the Premiere Vision edition for spring 13 there were many interesting new developments and a whole spectrum of blues, ranging from over-dyed intensive indigos through to washed-out pales and whitened indigos,” says Laura Keller, Amsterdam-based editor of the specialist textile magazine View2. “As well as a new cloudy blue, which has a greyish tinge, and lots of mid indigo shades, there were also ‘vitamin pill’ colours, such as spearmint, lemon yellow, turquoise, pink, red and white. So it's going to be a colourful season! The Turkish mill Bossa had a ‘Summer Garden’ concept that produced all these beautiful shades and more, but instead of being on a greige base that was ready for garment dyeing, it

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summer is always good for denim’s lighter interpretation, chambray, but lighter weight denims are also well represented – they look more substantial than classic chambray and react better to washing and finishing processes. Sweden’s Nudie Jeans is a brand that continues to influence the market. Even for autumn 12, sales and marketing director Andreas Åhrman confirms that the brand has been showing advanced washes which are subtle rather than aggressive and has also included dry denim in the line. Interestingly, he also suggests that some female consumers are moving away from skinny silhouettes to a more regular fit. At Denham, Jason Denham confirms the importance of a soft handle for women’s denims. “We get 90% of our women’s fabrics from Italy because they really understand the soft-touch aspect,” he says. James Holder, the creative product dynamo at Superdry, is excited about what he describes as

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was a true indigo yarn overdyed, so that the indigo cannot be seen. But when the fabric is scraped or worn, it will begin to allow the indigo beneath to show through the colour. That’s a really nice and very new effect.” Another high-fashion treatment that is likely to catch buyers’ eyes is glitter and plasticised finishes, which range from a subtle chintz-effect to an all-out gleam. Bossa offered “Glowing Whispers”, which from one aspect looks like flat denim, but when caught in the light transforms to a dazzling shiny surface. This is a finish so it can be applied to any denim base. The SS13 collections will be all about tactile touches, with lots of soapy handles and “dry” finishes, which fits in with the desire for cleaner, plainer, “more honest” jeanswear. Also to be noted, says Keller, are interesting structures, such as 100% indigo heavyweight canvas and Japanese workwear structures in shirting weights. Spring/

“Society is developing and people w i l l pay a l i t t l e b i t m o r e f o r a m o r e r e s p o n s i b ly s o u r c e d p r o d u c t . ” ( TONY TONNAER , K . O . I . )

“buttery suede-finish denim” for women. “For spring 13 we are really focusing on denim and providing a very clear offer,” he says. “We are going for fabrics that are thick and substantial, that really offer quality. The range will go from skinny black denim jeans to hot pants with frayed edges. A nice touch for us, since our corporate colour is orange, is our Copperfill treatment, which has an orange copper colour printed on the underside of the fabric. It’s only seen when you roll your jeans up.” Two important considerations for the industry – and they are often linked – are retail prices and the sustainability of manufacturing processes. Once notorious for its massive use of water, powerful dyes and other chemicals, the denim sector is notably advanced now in ecologically-sound processes. Some jeanswear brands, like Kuyichi from the Netherlands and Monkee Genes from the UK, make their eco-stance an essential part of the market positioning. Others take a more low-key approach, but still have a clear conscience. At B&B Pepe Jeans London will be showing its Tru Blue line, which is produced using no chemicals and has a washing process that uses fewer than five litres of water. “It used to take 150 litres,” says Pepe’s Charles Eisenhour, “but we are a responsible company, so we just do it rather than making a big thing about it. Talking about the good stuff you do can open yourself up to being exa mined about everything you do.” London-based textile consultant Ros Hibbert of Line Consultants has done a lot of work collating information on what is being done to improve the jeanswear industry’s reputation and performance. She says: “The potential for negative environmental impact of a pair of denim jeans is not limited to just the fibre and fabric manufacture. It can continue on through all areas of the supply chain, from garment manufacture and finishing

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treatments to customer laundry and issues with final, end-of-life disposal.” Improved technology coupled with unstable and rising raw material costs have led to the increase in weavers using their own production waste or cutting waste collected from customers. Although this was historically common practice for many mills, to reduce costs, the resulting fabric was always of lower standard. This is no longer the case. Post-consumer waste can be used, provided a continuous and reliable stream of recyclable material is available. The addition of some virgin fibre may be required for strength. Royo has an initiative under the name Denim Valley and its Renascut programme works with specific partner brands that operate a returns programme and is tailored to the exact needs of the company. The entire processing and reclamation takes place in the Denim Valley facility in Valencia, where the company reuses the fibre in high-quality warp and weft yarns. Similarly, Turkish weaver ISKO partners Nudie in its jeans recycling scheme, while Turkish mill ORTA works with Levi’s in its returns programme. Under the Candiani Recycled Programme, the company’s own waste from spinning, dyeing and weaving is combined with the legs of its customers’ surplus and seconds jeans to create a recycled cotton weft; some 35% of the new fabric comprises this recycled cotton. “It’s a nice and authentic-looking product,” says Alberto Candiani. There are plenty of other examples of producers taking a responsible attitude to manufacturing a fashion product. B&B exhibitor Monkee Genes was one of the first jeans labels to have a unique mix of accreditations from “The Soil Association” and the “Global Organic Textile Stan dards” (GOTS). In addition it uses its tags and jeans labelling to convey their message about acceptable production to their customers. The Made-by

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organisation works with brands such as G-Star, Mud Jeans and Kuyichi, where it is able to monitor & compare progress over several years in respect to sourcing and manufacturing. With sandblasting now widely banned, clean laser systems to produce surface finishes are generally acceptable, and have introduced the potential for delicate and sophisticated effects not normally associated with jeans. A collaboration between François Girbaud and the Spanish textile consultancy Jeanologia demonstrated this via a denim suiting collection where the “traditional” woven checks & striped patterns were created by laser while the electrical consumption per garment was reduced. As Hibbert observes: “Sustainability alone no longer suffices as a selling point, and it certainly is not a seasonal trend – but it is a fundamental principle underlying the future success of the industry. As Panos Sofianos of Tejidos Royo has rightly stated: ‘The future belongs to the eco movement’.” As with most subjects of discussion in the jeanswear sector, others remain somewhat less convinced. “It’s very difficult to get my customers interested in environmental processes,” says Alex Karalis from Crämer & Co. “Only 5% or maybe 10% pay attention.” Pep’s Eisenhour also recalls the legendary designer Adriano Goldschmied telling a US conference on denim earlier this year that technological processes should not dictate what the jeanswear industry does. “Adriano said that the designer’s first objective is to make beautiful things. If we can do it in a sustainable way, that’s good. But we all need to remember that we are still selling a fashion product – it has to look good.” Ros Hibbert agrees: “Improved developments must be able to incorporate seasonal fashion requirements while being economically viable.” That remains an on-going challenge to the sector.

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One of the pioneers of making jeanswear environmentally responsible is Tony Tonnaer, who was a co-founder of Kuyichi in the Netherlands in 2003. He was a director of that business for seven years and did much to change the perception of what was possible in jeans manufacturing. A year ago he started a new jeans label, Kings of Indigo, or K.O.I., which has the same ethos of responsible, sustainable production. K.O.I. is big on the mantra: Recycle. Repair. Reuse. “Of course, I hear people saying that sustainability is not relevant to the fashion jeans business,” says Tonnaer, “but my response is to say that ten years ago no one was aware of the issues. Now everyone is a bit aware. You see the same attitude in supermarkets, where people now question how the food got there, in cafés with coffee, in the energy business, in the popularity of hybrid cars. Society is developing and people will pay a little bit more for a more responsibly sourced product.” In terms of what consumers will pay in the current climate, pricing is a key issue for many brands and retailers. Despite the obvious success of lux labels like Prps Noir, which sells for £500–£800 and has 150 stockists in Europe, or the Italian brand Jacob Cohen, which sells for around £300–£400 in Harrods, many retailers are mindful that their consumers are not as free with their money as they once were. “For most of the market, pricing is coming back into commercial limits,” states Eisenhour at Pepe. “We used to sell lots in the 120–200 Euros price bracket, now it is 80–120 Euros. We are making a clean, clear denim proposition for spring 13, offering the sort of jeans that you can wear a lot. Our new Essentials range will sell for 75–85 Euros.” Alex Karalis at Crämer & Co admits that pricing is a real concern: “Our volume sales are at 100–130 Euros. But we can still get 160 Euros for a nice wash from Diesel.”

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“ t h e d e n i m r e v i va l i s n ’ t c o m i n g , it ’ s already h ere .” (Daniel Werner, 14 oz .)

Tony Tonnaer at K.O.I. says his main business is done at around 100–150 Euros, rising to 150–200 Euros for laser or ozone washes and up to 240 Euros for a premium Japanese fabric. Although he is excited about Kuro jeans from Japan that sell at 279–379 Euros and a new US brand called Telephone that retails at 200–219 Euros, Klaus Voll of Volls says that his main volume is done in the 129– 179 Euros bracket: “It’s just not possible for many young men to afford a pair of jeans for 400 Euros.” With all these points to discuss, there is likely to be lots of opinion exchanged during the long three days and nights of Bread & Butter. But by the end of it no one will be in any doubt that denim is heading back to its unique position at the centre of the young fashion sector. As everyone visiting the amazing Tempel of Denim will tell you, every pair of jeans tells a story and there are many more stories to be told.

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To maximise the opportunities, brands and retailers will have to work together to communicate denim strength to the consumer. And the 14 oz. store in Berlin is all set to do just that: “We will be making a huge denim statement during BBB as we have early autumn delivery from many of our brands,” says store manager Daniel Werner. “The spring/summer denim sales have been good. We have been doing well with AG Adriano Goldschmied for the girls who still like a skinny fit, but the real activity is being seen in men’s denim. Nudie is still very good for the young fashion guys, Denham’s even better and even more fashionable, 3x1 has been great with lighter weights in the summer, 12 oz and 13 oz, and Momotaro has worked with us to provide an entry price point of 200 Euros, which is affordable for premium Japanese denim. As far as we at 14 oz. are concerned, the denim revival isn’t coming, it’s already here.”

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GREEN IS THEBLUE COOL K.O.i.: American Authentics

M e e t J a pa n e s e E y e f o r D e ta i l

Tony Tonnaer is the denim innovator par excellence! He belongs to the new generation that is spicing up this big blue world. What’s more: he’s a pioneer in a crucial issue that not only concerns denim but all of us in the long run: sustainable denim production. The finite nature of our planet’s resources poses a substantial challenge to the textile industry overall, especially for denim producers whose entire livelihood depends upon cotton as an essential raw material. Cultivable land is limited. Experts and aid organizations have been warning about the depletion of water reserves for years — and not just in developing countries. So, what about denim? At least one pair of jeans can be found in each and every wardrobe. Jeans are socially accepted, ageless, and appeal to every generation. The market seems to be facing a new rise. How can future needs for the blue fabric be met whilst preserving our environment? Tony’s young denim label K.O.I. — short for Kings of Indigo — is part of the solution. Before founding his own label in 2011 he spent seven years working for Kuyichi. As their CEO he was involved in developing appealing yet eco-friendly garments and proved time and time again that “eco” does not exclude a cool look and feel: “I learned about how exciting it is to make great things by keeping on looking for cleaner and fairer production facilities,” states Tony Tonnaer. By founding K.O.I. he combined 090

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by Danielle de bie

the two things he loves most: making jeans and making things… better! Tony himself is a passionate “green shopper” but “whatever I buy needs to look, taste, smell and feel nice and,” he adds, “I try to consume as sustainably as possible while looking good.” With this principle in mind, Tony and his team create the sophisticated looks for K.O.I. K.O.I. pays homage to the cradle of denim by combining “American Authentics” with the unmatched Japanese eye for detail. Two essential elements form the foundation of Kings of Indigo: green, since the collection is entirely made of organic and recycled materials; blue, for their love of denim, their deep understanding of this versatile fabric and their fundamental know-how in denimmaking. I’d like to put it this way: Their favourite colour is blue while their heart beats green… or the other way around. K.O.I.’s guiding principle: Triple R for “Recycle, Repair, Re-use” — Tony likes to play with words since “alliterations always sound nice, like my name that does the same… TT”. The Triple R concept is a lot more than just a fun game — it means saving resources and protecting the environment! And it means looking good! The different styles named after past kings and queens have the same royal attitude as their namesakes: made of high-quality denim fabrics

from leading mills in Turkey, Italy and Japan, exclusively “made and washed in Europe”, excellent fits, distinctive washes and treatments, vegetable dyes and the unmistakable attention to detail — precious ingredients that are synonymous for quality. Galan, Philip, Clovis, John, Louis, Rani, Dido, Emma, Juno, Christina… Tony finds these names easily: “When developing a new style, I just go to Wikipedia to find a king or queen who fits the style.” But they have a deeper meaning: their immortality stands for longevity in a figurative sense. For spring/summer 2013 Tony Tonnaer and his team bring sustainability to the next level by presenting their new line “The Kings of Laundry”. Here, recycled fabrics meet the best clean washes of the moment: in collaboration with the Italian Elleti s.r.l. and Martelli, two of the world’s leading laundries, K.O.I. has developed state-of-the-art washes by using the newest technologies in laser, ozone and ice blasting. In doing so, Tony Tonnaer is once again setting new standards and continuing to live up to what he represents to me: a denim lover, a connoisseur and pioneer deserving our respect. And once again he is contributing to making this world a bit better, a bit greener but… not at the expense of beauty. The opposite is true: K.O.I. presents another range of jeans destined to become a true favourite. Forever. One of mine, for sure!

tempel of denim: TD 16. 4

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M o m ota r o

Nippon FAIRYTALE

by TJ B R U D E R

Momotaro Jeans are named after a famous Japanese fairytale about a hero called Momotaro who came to earth inside a giant peach. Years later he went on to defeat evil monsters together with his helpers, before becoming a wealthy and honourable man. This wonderful story, is all about dreams, aspirations and collaboration. Considering that Momotaro Jeans is a high-aspiration brand born in the Japanese denim town of Kojima in Okayama, it was only fitting to take on this historical name. So far, Momotaro is very much on target when it comes to taking the denim world by storm. Japanese denim from the south-western region of Okayama has firmly established itself as one of the very few premium sources of this cult fabric. In a rural setting close to the coast is the almost mystical Okayama denim family along with its denim mills, washing and indigo dyeing factories, as well as other specialised ateliers, factories and studios. Secluded and far away from ultra-commercial brainwaves, the “family” works together, hand in hand, creating premium denim quality using

traditional techniques, yet consistently pushing the boundaries. Cutting edge denim is the result. In the middle of this traditional denim hub, Momotaro Jeans cooks up its own delicious mix of tradition, lifestyle and fashion, making it a clothing brand with the self-proclaimed aspiration to be loved forever. The Momotaro mix is highlighted by four distinct lines: the Gold Label, Copper Label, Going To War Label and the Vintage Label. All made with the finest Zimbabwean cotton, they differ in weight, varying tones of indigo as well as cut and design details. The “Gold Label” uses fabric woven on a virtually obsolete hand loom, only capable of producing one metre of fabric per day. The hand-dyed yarn using specially prepared indigo dye (made with Sake rice wine) results in a very beautiful shade of blue. Momotaro’s “Going To War Label” is its darkest 15.7 oz indigo blue jean, which is very comfortable yet rugged in character and displays two signature white lines of uneven thickness on its back pocket. All you need to win the lifestyle war!

Temple of Denim: tD 16.7

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Nudie

Crème-de-la-Green

by TJ B R U D E R

A pair of jeans are supposed to be “lived”, not worn, and anything that has to do with life carries its share of responsibilities. Living life responsibly means not living beyond the means of our planet Nudie Jeans lives up to that responsibility! Many in fashion and beyond believe that being green cannot be cool. Nudie is proving them wrong in a big way. Cool in style and equally cool to our planet, it has a green mind with a blue heart. Nudie Jeans has gone for an important mark in its sustainable fashion strategy and self proclaimed goal: to deliver a denim collection entirely made from organic cotton and other organic raw materials by the fall of 2012. Founder and creative director, Maria Erixon Levin, explains: “To make this happen we had to start from scratch, change the way we work and together with our suppliers develop our very own organic fabrics. It’s been a struggle, to say the least, but it also gave us the opportunity to develop these fabrics in our own direction.” In its quest for an environmentally friendly production chain,

Nudie works hand in hand with the “crème-de-lagreen” such as the Fair Wear Foundation and The Textile Exchange. However, to be a respectful player in the denim world requires not only a green mind but also a super blue heart. Nudie’s handwritten logo type has become a visual icon in the deep blue sea, and can be taken as an indicator for its believes in traditional techniques, eye for detail and premium quality claims. For the premium and limited edition collections, Nudie uses selvage denim from Japan, Italy and Turkey. One of those limited edition lines is the Woad/Guado line. Before Indian Indigo was brought to Europe around 1498, blue dyestuff was made from the Woad plant. Nudie Jeans with its special line brought back this ancient Woad dyeing custom which had seen a slow phase-out in the 1700s. When using blue dyestuff derived from the Woad plant, the fabric makes a natural roller coaster ride in color from yellow to green to blue! A magical process for a magical Nudie lifestyle.

L.O.C.K.: L 42

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JEANMEUP SCOTTY 3x1: BESPOKE. BEBLUE. by Danielle de bie

One-of-a-kind. Unparalleled. Unique. A real experience for the most sophisticated denim aficionados. Founded in May 2011, 3x1 is the latest project by the grand seigneur of denim Scott Morrison, pioneer of the premium denim phenomenon and inventor of the iconic brands Paper Denim & Cloth and Earnest Sewn. 3x1 epitomises profound denim know-how, the love for the versatile blue fabric and a deep appreciation of quality and craftsmanship. The brand name is derived from denim’s standard weaving construction, the 3x1 right hand twill, while the “3” is also a reference to the fact that this is the third project by the exceptional talent Morrison, who, with his 3x1 concept, is setting yet another denim benchmark. At first sight, his large retail space covering an area of 4000 square feet has a gallery feel to it; a lot of glass, bright white and different shades of blue form a harmonious interplay with the dark wooden flooring and ancient-looking pillars. 94

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Based in Soho, Manhattan, 3x1 is a homage to denim and is both a flagship store and factory space with a fully equipped tailor’s workroom in the centre. This is the first time that the production process has been integrated into a retail store. 3x1 is thereby offering customers the opportunity to experience every step of true denim-making on the highest level. This results in a wealth of exceptional designs made from exquisite fabrics, in-cluding more than 70 selvedge and 50 nonselvedge denims, chambrays and twills, some of which are woven on the world’s rarest looms. Every pair is 100% handmade and finished using valuable hardware. The rotating stock of limited fabrics and styles is showcased on the walls like pieces of art. Buttons, studs, rivets and leather patches are all proudly presented behind glass. Under the hands of a team of skilled sewers, who are true masters of their craft, it is possible to witness the genesis of a pair of 3x1 jeans. This is an unrivalled experience that illustrates the many facets of denim and which helps us to understand its true beauty. “People love to learn how things are made; there’s always something magical about seeing the process itself. And perhaps it’s a sign of the times, but the thought that most resonates with me today is one of the value, uniqueness and transparency,” says Scott Morrison about his unprecedented summer 2012

concept, which is a marriage of product and production. And he is even going one step further with his bespoke option: the art of tailoring, denim tailoring to be precise. Based on the customer’s individual specifications, the 3x1 team proposes a choice of different fabrics, trims, fits, buttons, rivets etc. to allow them to customise their very own pair bearing their own hallmarks. Together with the head pattern-maker, Scott Morrison accompanies the customer all the way through the design process, from start to finish. But adding the very final touches is left to the wearer himself. A pair of 3x1 jeans will gradually develop their beauty over time with every day they are worn and, slowly but surely, the faded white lines, known as “whiskers”, will tell the wearer’s story and reveal his real identity. True to the motto: show me what you’re wearing and I’ll tell you who you are… Tempel of Denim: TD 15

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DETAIL IS TRUTH DENHAM: Known as THE JEANMAKER

He belongs to the new blue breed, the “wild ones” who have turned the denim industry upside down: Jason Denham, a.k.a. the jeanmaker. It all started in 1992 when the Englishman teamed up with fashion designer Joe Casley-Hayford to create his first jean for U2. He went on to make a career at Pepe Jeans, Swift Denim and Kuyichi. In 2001 he founded his own jeans brand, “Blue Blood”. Finally, in 2009, he introduced his latest blue phenomenon Denham – The Jeanmaker. Art, science and industrial design are the essential components of his craft. Unsurprisingly, his role models are an artist, a scientist and an engineer: Adriano Goldschmied, who gets up every morning at six, already thinking about new jeans ideas whilst drinking his first espresso, Francois Girbaud, the pioneer in the field of sustainable technology who invented stone-wash by washing some jeans in a cement mixer and, last but not least, Pierre Morriset, whose industrial way of thinking is the basis of many new cuts and shapes. Just like his role models, who have influenced the past three decades of jean-making, Jason has set new standards in denim again and again since the 96

outset of his career twenty years ago. Since then, he has earned genuine admiration amongst the denim crowd – even the dinosaurs have a deep respect for the Englishman whose blood can only be blue. It’s probably because he treats the blue fabric, its past achievements and the jeans he makes with this same respect. “Before creating a new pair of jeans I have to know its story and where it comes from,” says Denham. He has also created the “Garment Library”, an extensive archive in his Amsterdam headquarters, a treasure trove of denim history. Jeans from 1850, firemen's dungarees from the late 19th century, Japanese worker pants… a true source of inspiration. What’s old today is new tomorrow – for Jason Denham, such traditions are the foundation of his work. Based on this conviction and his philosophy of “the truth is in the detail” he creates jeans that combine progressive designs and experimentation with the heritage of jeanmaking. And with the right sense of time, because “the secret ingredient for creating a great jean is to know when to take your pencil off the paper and stop designing,” Jason explains another one The rock —

summer 2012

by Danielle de bie

of his major principles. He always finds the right balance of these components when making a Denham jean. Another good example for this perfect play with the old and the new are the two Denham stores at Amsterdam’s lively Nine Streets neighbourhood. While Denham Store 495 at Prinsengracht matches pure white with accents of warm traditional woodwork the Denham Women’s Boutique which just opened a few weeks from here at 17 Runstraat opposes pure modernism with rock & roll and bohemian nonchalance. Opposites attract: for Spring-Summer 2013 Denham and his design team meld the world of contemporary music festivals with the doctrine of contemporary military detailing. They hold up tradition by destroying conventions matching realtime utility, emblematic artwork, re-contextualized camo-prints and tiny accents of nearly high-vis color-shots as well as modern nylons and nylonblends. As a result, the worlds of music festival and mil-spec don’t seem so far apart after all. Thus, opposites… can also be very attractive! L.O.C.K.: L 10.2 & Tempel of denim: TD 2

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80 YEARS A Li tt le Louder

M U S T A N G : a l w a y s an e y e o n t h e F utu r e

The opening of the L. Hermann clothing factory in the Swabian town of Künzelsau doesn’t have much to do with the love of fine tailoring, the jeans myth or a galloping horse. The beginning of one of the biggest success stories of German entrepreneurship can only be blamed on rational considerations: practical thinking, the will to survive and, finally, the resolute determination of Luise Hermann. It’s the year 1932: it’s the Great Depression, World War II is in the air, her husband’s wood business is running poorly – a solution is needed, and quick. Necessity is the mother of invention, so Luise quickly taught herself tailoring and, supported by six seamtresses, sewed that first pair of worker pants on July 2, 1932 on the upper floor of her home. In 1944, Erika – the young Fräulein Hermann – got engaged to Albert Sefranek, from near Buttenheim – kicking off the second chapter of the success story, which was destined to spark a postwar fashion revolution. After the war, Albert entered his in-laws’ business. But trade was everything but brisk. Sefranek travelled throughout the country with his suitcase of samples, but often he wasn’t even given a chance to open it. The Hermann Company? From Künzelsau? Work coats, smocks, aprons? No thanks. Something new was needed! The story of six bottles of schnapps that Sefranek traded for six pairs of American trousers in a bar in the Frankfurt red-light district became a legend. A barter deal that laid the foundation for the first jeans even produced outside of the US and yet another chapter of innovation.

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by Danielle de bie

B r e a d & B u tt e r b e r l i n

In 1949, the first “carrousel rider pants”, as his mother-in-law Luise Hermann disparagingly named the trousers, went on sale. Hydro – instead of indigo blue, shoemaker’s rivets, dungaree instead of denim fabric – trousers that seemed illogical to the Germans at the time, because they were tight and bled when washed and carried the signature of the occupying power. But Sefranek kept the faith, in himself and in his trousers and in a new attitude towards life. His intiution would not disappoint! Slowly but surely, he found his way to success: in 1953 he introduced the first women’s jeans on

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the market – they were sold in bundels as “Girl’s camping trousers”. In 1955 he introduced cords to Europe. He laid a further milestone: from 1958, you bought “Mustangs”, whether camping, drainpipe, Yank, cowboy or rivet-pants! Mustang was synonymous with the American Way of Life; a homage to the American heroes of the big screen, Marlo Brando and James Dean who introduced jeans to the world. But it was also an international statement, because Mustang is known in all languages. And closer observation reveals clear parallels between the originator and his protagonist, the small, tough, compact pony known for its modest, persistant and independent character which rode into the world as a stylised logo. A brand which revolutionised the world of jeans: in 1961 Mustang set standards with the very first stretch jeans. And the first durable crease can be attributed to the Künzelsau denim-makers – the “normed Hermann trousers” were the most popular thing since sliced bread. By the mid-70s every German kid knew the brand with the horse. Heiner Sefranek entered the family business with an aim to expand with his father Albert. In 1981 they saddled up – Southern Europe was calling. Despite a slump in denim, Mustang doubled its sales. The denim boom of the late-80s again contributed to the further success of the company. The 90s brought with them big changes in the world of fashion. Now it wasn’t just about “getting dressed”. Like in the 60s and 70s, when jeans were a means of expression for the various protest movements, young people began again to express their attitudes through their clothing. Heiner Sefranek recognised this trend early. The 90s needed new, provocative concepts above and beyond the mass market. In 1993 he took a risk with the production and distribution of W&LT, the extravagent streetwear label of Belgian designer Walter van Beirendonk. The “Wild and Lethal Trash” fashion lived up to its motto “Kiss the Future”: van Beirendonk produced almost extraterrestrial creations with tonal modules, flares, or bursts of scent. Mustang prepared the stage to make W&LT unforgettable. Mustang was one of the first fashion brands to recognise the potential of music. Already in the late 70s, they founded their own record label in cooperation with Jupiter Records, signed a sponsoring deal with the rock band The Scorpions and set new standards in the mid-90s with the comprehensive marketing concept JAM – Jeans and Music in cooperation with leading music channel VIVA.

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G E R MAN R O C K BAN D T h e b o s s h o s s

The project included a weekly TV show, a magazine, the Mustang Roadshow with live concerts, the Jamtrax CD Sampler and the sponsoring of the Rock am Ring music festival. The concept was the first of its kind, it’s considered a model and once again underscored Mustang’s pioneer position. By 2003, Mustang was being sold in 44 countries worldwide. In 2007 the galloping horse belonged to the top 10 most-known clothing brands in Germany with a score of 87%. Only Lee jeans were more known. Other well-known competitors were left in the dust. Inexhaustible, never tired, always keeping an eye on the future: in the 80 years of its existence Mustang has earned a permanent spot in the Denim Hall of Fame, but wasn’t always given the credit it deserved – the fate of misunderstood lateral thinkers and pioneers who are ahead of their time. It feels a little as if time has cheated them out of the laurels they deserve. Perhaps it has something to do with their Swabian modesty or the poor decisions that are always made again and again in the battle for a share of a cake which isn’t growing, of which an ever growing number of actors want a slice. For 80 years the name Mustang has stood for the driving power of innovation. Again and again the company stood before seemingly unsurmountable obstacles. Equipped with the tenacity of its brand name and with a passion, a love for jeans and the right idea, the Mustang always gallops ahead to where he belongs: at the front. Under new management, Mustang is saddling up once again with Dietmar Axt. If you talk to him about Mustang, his eyes shine a little bluer... I would have expected the man I know as an analytical thinker

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and cool strategist to list numbers and facts as the logical explanation for the acquisition. Instead, he talks passionately about what Mustang means for him, about what he’s taken on for himself and where he wants to take the brand, which he wore himself during his youth. His enthusiasm is contagious and he easily converts you into a believer! He proved that he’s got what it takes with the successful re-positioning of the Diesel brand in Germany at the beginning of the second millennium. He talks about the strengths of Mustang, the brand’s strong potential. And in Mustang he sees more than just a clothing manufacturer – Mustang stands for a lifestyle, an attitude and for quality. In the Künzelsau headquarters they’ve already set up a new inhouse denim washing plant and sample sewing department for the development of new washes and prototypes. When it comes to positioning, Mustang is staying true to itself, as a brand of the middle, true denim for true people. And this fits perfectly with their latest coup: together with the popular German rock band The BossHoss, Mustang is presenting the “Mustang Black Edition by The BossHoss”. These guys like it “simple, uncomplicated, manly”. They’re cool, authentic and defiant – what belongs together comes together.

The quiet d ay s a r e l o ng g o n e ! Denim Base: D 42

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closed

Bauhaus reloaded

by Danielle de bie

Founded in 1978, the German label Closed is one of the few brands that could be described as a designer jeans label. It was certainly the first in Europe. The legendary Pedal Pusher was the first jeans design conceived by Closed in 1980. An icon that joins the ranks of such famous classics as Levi’s 501 and G-Star’s Elwood and that is definitely a phenomenon in today’s jeans business, which is flooded with new models every season. The Pedal Pusher has survived the times and is stronger than ever before. Borrowing references from a postman’s uniform, the Pedal Pusher is the foundation of all Closed designs. The arm rest pocket, angled at 33 degrees for easier access to the front pocket, the sacrum cut on the back yoke for an improved fit and the belt loop designed to hold accessories or tools are popular features of this Closed icon. An essential detail is the fly label in the front yoke inset seam, the visible hallmark that stands for unmistakable quality and genuine design. The Closed design philosophy is a nod to the

Bauhaus principle of form follows function. It’s all about finding the right balance between function and design to provide the Closed garments with these unmistakable hallmarks: the lack of unnecessary extras and ostentatious details in favour of a tactile experience. This singular ethic is one of the label’s priorities and represents its primary DNA. The label owns an extensive archive of international uniforms. Everything from vintage postal workers’ uniforms to military clothing serve as an essential source of inspiration and form the basis for the development of each collection. And these are inspirations that can be found again in the spring/summer 2013 collection: for an overall simplified feel, the men’s collection has a casual clean look, while the women’s designs are sophisticated and elegant. Upon closer inspection it is possible to glean some interesting details from the past which are being interpreted with a contemporary twist – designs that set form and function in perfect harmony.

urban superior men: Sr 9

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T H R e e A N I M A LS

FRENCH ELEGANCE

by TJ B r u d e r

“Paris or bust” - that was probably what Ming Yin thought when she headed off to the French capital from China in 2000 to continue her fashion design studies at the Bercot Studio. Fast-forward 11 years and Ming, who is still going strong in Paris, is lighting the torch for her own new menswear label, “Three Animals Paris Workshop”. A playful name full of hope, with the “Workshop” at the end expressing a strong sense of craftsmanship and direction. Indeed, the three animals (elephant, camel and goat), depicted in the ethnic-style logo, stand for treasure, a free mind and a classic yet adventurous spirit. A powerful mix and, not surprisingly, an “east meets west” creative endeavour. According to philosopher Lao Tse, the Tao follows a natural path, so this life philosophy and part of Yin’s own cultural background, is strongly reflected in her choice of natural materials like cotton, linen and wool, a lasting style and environmentallyfriendly production processes.

Three Animals is made for nostalgic minds. Eastern minimalism and understated nuances pair with the characteristic French flair. Ming Yin’s favourite period was the 1920s in Paris when fashion stood for elegance and masculinity. The label comes across as intellectually and culturally stimulating, a strong proponent of independent thinking and responsible consumption. No newcomer to freedom and adventure, Ming Yin was already a firm believer in creative freedom during her years as head designer for French fashion brand “Legend & Soul”. Now, heading Three Animals, she is conceptualising contemporary fashion with a traditional slant, catering to free-minded, intellectual men. For “Three Animals Paris Workshop”, S/S 2013 is bringing rich colours as well as a stronge focus on delicate details. Ethnic and handmade are the buzzwords in terms of the fabrics, in addition to brilliant pattern techniques and details from vintage masterpieces.

F i r e D e p t. at L . O . C . K . : F D 7

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D ry ko r n : I t S ta r t e d F r o m a r e a r T r u n k by K At h r i n H o l l m e r

A best friend is the one who you can go to with any questions, who you can take everywhere and who helps you when you don’t know where to turn. Hardly anyone would think of describing a garment as a friend though – although we do spend a lot of time with it up close and personal. Most of our cloths aren't important enough to put them in that friend category, but Drykorn certainly has the potential to become your best friend… In the beginning it was all about a love of trousers. Marco Götz even sold them from the boot of his car. As a trainee at René Lezard he produced his own first designs at the factory in Lahr in the Black Forest: woollen trousers for men, at a time when jeans were men’s favourites. Marco Götz’ idea was to offer ready-to-wear men’s trousers of a premium quality at affordable prices. At that time this was a unique concept on the market – which was met with great enthusiasm by customers. In 1996 Marco Götz officially set up his label Drykorn, which quickly made a name for itself amongst selected retailers. He consistently expanded his range and in 1999 started a ladies’ trouser collection. Jackets and suits, ladies’ blazers, coats, jerseys, knit-wear and shirts soon complemented the assortment. Step by step Marco Götz and his team decided to add further product groups. Today Drykorn produces two complete ladies’ and men’s collections with around 600 garments every year. In just fifteen years the label has developed from being a mere trouser brand to one of the leading German full-range suppliers. 104

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YOU’re My BEST FRIEND

And to this very day he has remained close to his product – which is not necessarily always the case with other labels. Drykorn opened its first own store in February 2008 in Berlin Mitte. Meanwhile the ladies’ collection can be found in a separate store, the men’s collection in two, divided into casual and ready-towear. The e-shop went online in September 2010. Urban, accessible and progressive – three words to describe Drykorn. Despite its success, the brand stays true to its style and its values. Starting with the price; Drykorn wants to be an affordable, accessible brand amongst the exclusive designer brands. With this attitude Marco Götz has achieved something unique: despite constant success and growth the label has retained its insider status. This may be down to the selective marketing, as right from the outset Drykorn has distributed its goods via upscale retailers and has positioned itself here between fashionable streetwear brands and international designers, as a first step into the premium segment. One thing that Drykorn has always been is likeable. Despite their claim “forbeautifulpeople”, which can be found in the inside lining of almost every garment. What at first glance may sound somewhat arrogant ultimately expresses two things: the healthy irony that they have maintained at Drykorn and the fact that the brand is for individualists, for self-confident people who don’t take themselves too seriously. Drykorn underlines its personality, without putting a stamp on it. Marco Götz’ company embodies the zeitgeist, but without putting it on a pedestal. It is aimed at those who make independent decisions – and although they are always interested in trends, they don’t allow themselves to be dictated to. Perhaps that is precisely the secret of Drykorn. It could also have something to do with the fact that the people who work at Drykorn all identify with what they do. The members of staff rarely wear anything but the label’s own garments. Out of a deep conviction. “We are our own target group. Everything we do is made for us,” says Marco Götz. And already we start to understand a little bit better why the brand is rather exclusive, but at the same time approachable: in fact just like your very best friend. Urban Superior Men: SR 37

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SPORT & STREET

{ HOUSE OF FLORA } BERLIN SUMMER 2012

4–6 JULY 2012 BREAD & BUT TER Airport Berlin-Tempelhof

WWW.BREADANDBUTTER.COM/SPORTANDSTREET

A l o h a r e a d er s Welcome to Sport & Street, the House of Flora edition. First of all, thank you for being here at BREAD & BUTTER, thank you for reading this. It means you are part of Sport & Street – part of our big family. My name is Joey Elgersma, your product manager for Sport & Street + D.O.C.K. On the following pages we will guide you through the highlights of the week, but before we do that I would like to give you a run-down of the time leading up to this July show: The first da ys of the SS12 season… It was a rainy day after the January edition of Bread & Butter, the BBC documentary series Human Planet was over and my remote control batteries were dead. My Sport & Street partner of the time, the infamous, curly-haired superwoman Michal Tesler from Berlin made the announcement that she was leaving us to go surfing in Bali for a couple of months and would then be focusing on her own online magazine in the future. I was in shock, how would I manage without her? But no fear, a few months down the line and I am still alive and going strong. Even though I still miss you, Curly Sue! A new era… The super swaggy man you see next to me is my old friend and new partner in crime, Mr Lee Stuart. He is a romantic neon hippie with a penchant for Dipset, crazy women and the movie Dirty Dancing. We met eight years ago in our hometown of Amsterdam, and now the two of us are responsible for your Hangar 1 experience. Welcome Lee, it’s great to have you here. Wishing you all the luck in the world for your first show! Awaiting you this week at House of Flora… I am proud of the brand list growing even stronger and the fact that we have been able to bring in new brands and welcome back some great ones, as well as the most relevant media partners and important buyers. Our prestige project, the D.O.C.K. – Department of Contemporary Keynotes, is going into its second season with an incredible, completely fresh line-up. On top of that we have been working on an awesome tropically themed collaboration with WeSC. We firmly believe in the motto “work hard, play hard” so there will be plenty of opportunities to party too. Get ready for it: we are presenting the first ever Sport & Street Festival, with the illest DJs from Amsterdam, Paris and London playing alongside the US’ finest hip hop artists of the moment! The festival will take place at the Festsaal Kreuzberg on 5th and 6th July, but more about that later… Sport & Street has always been the perfect example of mixing business with pleasure. This year we have fine-tuned both elements. Trust us when we say we’ll make sure you have another season packed with experiences you will never forget. Bringing all this together was another tough but truly exciting ride. Aloha kãkou, Joey Follow Sport & Street on Twitter & Instagram: @joeyelgersma @lee_stuart

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The

D.O.C.K. DEPARTMENT OF CONTEMPORARY KEYNOTES

who‘s who Patta XXX Bar

This is our good friend Guillaume Schmidt aka Gee, co-owner of the internationally re nowned sneaker shop Patta in Amsterdam. At the moment Team Patta is rolling out the second collection of their private label and it looks dope! Gee and his Patta family will be hosting the Patta XXX Bar on top of the D.O.C.K area, and Patta Soundsystem is responsible for the DJ set up at our festival. Drop by and have a listen! Follow Gee on Twitter: @Geepatta

2BOP

Straight outta South Africa, we welcome Bradley and Anthony, founder and creative director of 2BOP. The brand started out in 2004 and was a way to turn their passion for classic video games into a form of expression. And now they are both here in Berlin to share their Cape Town inspirations with the rest of the world. Follow 2BOP on twitter: @2bop

On top of the d.o.c.k.

d.o.c.k.: c 5

Primitive

Introducing Maneli Bawandi, European Head Of Sales for Primitive Distribution. “Everything Primitive drops is supposed to transport the feeling and lifestyle of the beautiful valley!” Find Primitive on the first floor of D.O.C.K. and visit their Berlin shop at Torstraße 102. Follow Primitive on Twitter: @PRIMITIVE_ d.o.c.k.: c 9

BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB & ICE CREAM

Meet Craig Ford, owner of BAPESTORE® LONDON and Director of Distribution, Sales & PR at a number of names* who distribute Mr Bathing Ape, Human Made, Billionaire Boys Club, aNYthing, Bedwin & the Heartbreakers and Gourmet across EMEA. As if that’s not enough, Craig also blogs for Hypebeast. We are very happy he has joined the D.O.C.K family this summer and we’re really looking forward to seeing his presentations of the BBC & Ice Cream lines. Follow a number of names* on Twitter: @anumberofnames Craig on hypebeast: http://hypebeast.com/blog/craigford/ d.o.c.k.: c 8 & C 7

Mishka NYC

This is Greg, the co-owner and President of Mishka NYC. Mishka has always been an ‘alternative’ streetwear brand, marching to the beat of its own drum, and will be premiering its spring 2013 collection as well as some up-and-coming special releases and collaborations on the ground level of D.O.C.K. d.o.c.k.: c 1

#VERYRAREPARIS

We are very pleased to announce a special project by Alex Sossah, creative director of WAD Magazine. Not only is WAD one of our media partners for this season, Alex also curates #VERYRAREPARIS, broadcasting the best upcoming Parisian designers Artisal Ansatz, Brooklyn We Go Hard, Coltesse, Laurence Airline/ OKUN, Maison Labiche, Monsieur Lacenaire, Pantheone & Pigalle. We’re lovin’ it. Follow Alex on Twitter: @alexsossah. Please use hashtag #veryrareparis d.o.c.k.: c 4

Dee & Ricky

Ssur/CAVIAR CARTEL

The Russian-born, New York-based artist and clothing designer Ruslan Karablin of Ssur/CAVIAR CARTEL has been making bold, controversial and confronting statements for quite some time now. Politics, culture clashes and everyday struggles are elements that resonate in his body of work. More recently he’s been very successful with his “Comme Des Fuckdown” design, originally introduced ten years ago! Follow Russ on Twitter: @SSUR69 d.o.c . k . : c 10

Meet Dee, meet Ricky. Don’t worry, we never know how to tell them apart either! These young New York City twins have been sharing their unique aesthetics for years now and have collaborated with Marc Jacobs, Casio G-Shock, and most notably PONY. They will be bringing the best of their work as well as plenty of swag and conversation starters to the show. Follow Dee & Ricky on Twitter: @DeeandRicky Dee & Ricky on Hypebeast: http://hypebeast.com/ blog/deericky/ d.o.c.k.: c 12

POINTER

One of our favourite neighbourhood stores in Berlin-Mitte is Pointer. Their SS13 collection pays homage to the British holiday heyday of the early 1970s. Personally, we love the collection! Go and see them on the ground-floor in the D.O.C.K. area (booth C 2) and let us know what you think! Follow Pointer Footwear on Twitter: @pointerfootwear d.o.c.k.: c 2

Filling Pieces

Have you met our kid brother Guillaume Philibert? You should. This dude started his fast-growing sneaker brand just two and a half years ago, with the intention of bridging the gap between highend and street style footwear and now he’s already rolling with the big boys! Follow Guillaume on Twitter: @FillingPieces d.o.c.k.: c 6

Black Scale

Meet Teron Stevenson, International Sales and Production Manager of Black Scale. The brand has quickly gained acclaim in the everchanging world of streetwear, recently also due to their collaboration with rapper of the moment, A$AP ROCKY. Black Scale will be show casing both their spring 13 and holiday 12 collections. Follow Black Scale on Twitter: @BlackScale d.o.c . k . : c 11

LONDON TAKEOVER II

We’ll let the Amazing Grace Ladoja introduce London Takeover II herself: London Takeover II is an energy through fashion, skate, digital, film, nails and music. Look at this lineup! Everyone involved is at the top of their game; from Martine Rose to Wah Nails to Palace, they all individually possess something interesting and unique and together they are a strong movement! Nasir Mazhar and Cassette Playa continue to push boundaries with their designs and exhibitions, and Trapstar have got the kids on lockdown. Follow Grace on twitter: @GraceLaDoja. Please use hashtag #londontakeoverII d.o.c.k.: c 3

u r ba n e a r s The good folks at Urbanears are treading new territory this month! Although theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been in the business for years now, July sees the release of their first ever DJ headphone: Zinken. Developed with the professional DJ in mind and with respect to the budget of the unpaid amateur, Zinken is chock-full of handy features like the turn-cable and ZoundPlug. Zinken is designed to be ultrawearable and does not absorb odours and sweat, whilst sitting comfortably on your head for long periods of time. It thrives in a DJ environment, but also excels at day-to-day use. Zinken drops on 15 July in seven different colours, with three more available from August. s p o r t & s t r e e t: S 18 . 3

O n i t s u k a t i g er Onitsuka Tiger has been part of sneaker culture since 1949 when Kihachiro Onitsuka started his small business in Kobe, Japan. Since then he has played a huge part in the industry's history by kicking off the jogging boom in the 1970s. In 1977 we saw the birth of ASICS, which meant Onitsuka Tiger went off the radar for a while until its great comeback in 2001. Ever since then Onitsuka Tiger has been cast as a niche Japanese brand with evergreen products that ensure a loyal and dedicated customer base. ASICS has also provided a lifestyle angle with ASICS SportStyle, which has had several successes with products like the AARON. Onitsuka Tiger has now decided to combine the entire lifestyle range of the brand and all its products together under one roof. The aim is to further consolidate the brand on the market and offer a more aggressive and competitive range to current and future retailers. There will be a visible difference in the way Onitsuka Tiger comes on the market from spring 2013, but what remains constant is the inherently Japanese attitude and the pioneering spirit of the founder. Pictured here is the ONITSUKA TIGER Omotesando store in Tokyo. s p o r t & s t r e e t: S 11 . 1

s u p er s u n g l a s s e s We love SUPER for continuously raising the bar in the eyewear sector. Their AW 2012–2013 Humanism collection “brings together and promises to cater to all manners of life, taste and persona lity” with the connecting threads of solid design and the new-retro SUPER aesthetic. Pictured here is one of our favourites, the Tapestry Giaguaro. s p o r t & s t r e e t: S 11 . 2

C l a r k s O r i g i na l s As the whole street wear scene grew up (a bit) the past years, one of our favorite shoes is the Desert Boot. Music and style go hand in hand in this little scene of ours so it’s only right that for SS13 Clarks Originals celebrates their classic and the recent comeback of vinyl “at the same damn time”. After all, music on vinyl was perfected in 1948 and the Desert Boot launched just two years later. For men and for women the collection takes as its inspiration the black vinyl records of yesteryear - grooves and all. Working in harmony with the Desert Boot’s trademark silhouette and its unmistakable crepe sole, the vinyl motif stitched onto the heel adds an exciting new dimension to one of the world’s most enduring styles. s p o r t & s t r e e t: S 10 . 2

S p o rt & S t r ee t House of Flora x WeSC This season we partnered up with WeSC, our good friends from Sweden, to create the limited edition Floral Party Pack. The pack features a combination of items that will make your summer party pop off, including a totebag, button down shirt and a 5 panel in a custom-made WeSC graphic titled the â&#x20AC;&#x153;WeSC jungle pattern.â&#x20AC;? We love the outcome. Make sure you get yourself a Sport & Street House of Flora x WeSC Floral Party Pack! s p o r t & s t r e e t: S 10 . 1

5 & 6 JULY 2 012 FESTSAAL KREUZBERG

PAT TA SOU NDSYSTEM D E E & RICKY # V ERYRAREPARIS LOND ON TA KEOVER II W W W. B R E A D A N D B U T T E R . C O M / S P O RTA N D S T R E E T

5 J U LY 2 012

D O O R S 1 0 P. M .

FESTSAAL KREUZBERG SKALITZERSTR. 130 10999 BERLIN

6 J U LY 2 012

D O O R S 1 0 P. M .

ADMISSION

B Y I N V I TAT I O N O N L Y !

Manuel Ritz

SHARP-dressed MAn

by Danielle de bie

We’re in the age of 2.0. The world is turning fast and faster. We’re running and running, always searching for the next adventure, the next big thing in a high-speed society. The choices and opportunities are boundless! We want to have it all! And always in style! Manuel Ritz is the perfect style solution for a world where big things happen. The collection appeals to guys who are ready to take on the next urban challenge and who are self-confident, brave, strong and, most importantly, styleconscious. Comfort and the art of tailoring are the utmost priorities! These are the essential components of styles that suit any occasion, carrying the distinctive trademark of Manuel Ritz. The perfectly fitted garments are the incarnation of workmanship at the highest level. They combine genuinely high-quality fabrics and sophisticated details with a creative mind, passion and an unmistakable

sense of fashion. The Italian gentlemen’s outfitter is a master in mixing and matching tradition and zeitgeist. This talent results in a collection which shows that elegance is not to be confused with snobbery: jackets, shirts, knits, trousers and accessories offer the perfect mix for open-minded cosmopolitans and urban heroes who face new challenges on a daily basis. They’ve got style, they’ve got taste and have no need to hide! A little bit of showing off is allowed, but understatement is the mandatory rule! Manuel Ritz, which saw the light of day in the eighties, can look back on a long history in fashion. But the Italian brand has arrived in the here and now by offering contemporary styles that are elegant yet casually cool. So what better closing line than lyrics from the legendary ZZ Top song: “’Cause every girl is crazy ‘bout a sharp-dressed man”… what are you waiting for guys?!

U r b a n s u p e r i o r m e n : SR 3 9

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w o o d e n r a d i o F INE E C ODE S I G N

CONNECTING PEOPLE

by Danielle de bie

“Radio” is short for a radio receiver transmitting signals through space via electromagnetic waves for the reception of audio transmissions… Its invention back in 1877 by Thomas Alva Edison was an essential achievement for mankind – linking the lost and the lonely, keeping up hopes yet bringing joy. By overcoming boundaries, real and imaginary, the radio has always helped connect people and cultures. Wooden radio connects cultures in a very particular way: from a wood workshop in Java, Indonesia these beautiful treasures make it to the most exclusive retail stores around the world. And their beauty goes way beyond their appearance! A radio receiver bearing the wooden radio signature is made entirely by hand – 16 hours of labour go into a single piece made by the designer Singgih Susilo Kartono and 40 young craftsmen. His workshop means more than a job to them – it is chance for professional advancement under fair conditions. With a portion of the revenue he was able to set up a tree nursery providing the

village with young plants. Singgih’s radios are made solely of local plantation wood, mostly pine – this explains why only 250 pieces leave his workroom every month. wooden radio is recognized as a successful example of economically and socially successful Ecodesign throughout the world. More than that: Since the company’s beginnings in 2007, Singgih’s efforts have been rewarded with an impressive number of leading design awards: Brit Insurance Design Award, London, Good Design Award/G-Mark, Tokio, Design Plus Award, Frankfurt, International Design Resource Award, Seattle, Indonesia Good Design Selection Awards, Jakarta – all fully deserved! Every piece is unique and combines wood with precious materials proving that outstanding design is not limited to the usual first-world design strongholds but can also be found miles from anywhere in a small village in Java, taking into account ecological sustainability. Just as radio has always done, wooden radio connects people by crossing social and geographic borders.

tr easu ry: T 13

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B r o o k s B r o T H E RS

exciting Ride

by TJ B R U D E R

An introduction seems almost superfluous for a fashion brand that’s been around for almost 200 years. Having weathered many ups (and downs) over time, Brooks Brothers, established in New York by Henry Sands Brooks in 1818, has kept an upper hand by focusing on its credo based on exceptional service, quality, style and value. The label’s mission, penned by Henry Sands Brooks himself, is still at the forefront of its daily operation: “To make and deal only in merchandise of the best quality, to sell it at a fair profit only and to deal only with those who seek and are capable of appreciating such merchandise.” The Brooks Brothers of the 21st century is a global retailer with over 400 stockists worldwide including those in North America. Its collection consists of items spanning genres from formal to casual, whilst remaining classic at all times. Serving ladies and gents across all ages, it is laced with historic first-to-market innovations such as seersucker,

madras, the non-iron shirt and the original buttondown collar. In our day and age many of these items are taken for granted and we forget how revolutionary their arrival was at the time. Innovations are always spawned by the combination of careful observation and determination. Good examples of this are the original buttondown collar and the Brooks Brothers “Number 1” model sack suit. The former had its origins in rugby where players would pin their collars down to keep them out of their face, and the latter was a response to university students ironing their threebutton jackets to create a two-button lapel collar. Very recently, a new retail format has been born to celebrate exactly these signature Brooks Brothers items - the Brooks Brothers Flatiron Shop located in the famous Flatiron District in New York City. The last 194 years have been an exciting ride for this icon, which was born in 1818 and is still going strong today.

l.o.c.k.: L 3.2

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Donkey ProdUCTS

HIGH-LEVEL HUMOUR

b y D a n i e l l e de b i e

The Berger family, now in its third generation, is a specialist in the sale of items that the world doesn’t necessarily need: grandmother Eva-Maria, who founded “Berger Geschenke” (Berger Gifts) in 1957, was the first to print dollar notes and crossword puzzles on toilet paper; father Michael founded the company Harlekin in 1969 – his Lusthansa (a play on the German airline name) sticker featuring the two familiar cranes in an univocal position created quite a stir; and then there’s Florian Berger… who, coming from a family of humour fanatics, actually had other plans. He studied economics, worked at a language school in the USA and set up an advertising agency in Hamburg with his childhood friend. But blood is thicker than water and Florian’s DNA eventually caught up with him. In 2007 he founded Donkey Products. And what does he sell? Teabags with cardboard tags featuring the faces of the Royal Family, soaps shaped like pink guns, porcelain saltshakers with the misleading inscription “Cocaine”, crocheted chainsaws and drills: quite simply things that the

world doesn’t need, but which always put a smile on the recipient's face and ensure plenty of fun and laughter. So what differentiates Donkey Products from the novelty trinkets to be had on every corner? Florian Berger develops his Donkey Products himself. He has a talent for seeing everyday objects in a different light and putting them in a new context. Florian Berger and his team consistently manage to develop products that have no purpose whatsoever other then adding a bit of fun to life, without being cheesy. It is this clever combination of humour and design that distinguishes the Donkey Products and which make them such sought-after items. And they are enjoying popularity far beyond the borders of Hamburg, the company’s hometown: you can meanwhile find Donkey Products in the museum shops of the most internationally renowned design temples like the Centre Pompidou in Paris and the Saatchi Gallery in London… the perfect combination of high-level humour and design!

TR EASU RY: t 2 0

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rare london

shopaholic’s favourite by Anna Frost. Starting out in 1999 as Fashionfinder, the Rare Fashion label was founded in 2002 and by 2005 it was already standing on its own feet with a website and own labels, followed in March 2012 by a perfect re-launch. Distributing in over 80 countries, Rare London is England’s most popular online shop. Typical British chic is what gets the online shopaholics’ hearts beating faster. Unique designs, based on vintage favourites or high fashion catwalk trends are being sent out to customers all over the world. The styles are orientated on the look of modern Brits, who, after all, can’t be wrong: it’s not without reason that Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge, is a style icon. Fashion blogs also like to recommend Rare London when it comes to finding the right outfit for every occasion. Fashion Now: F 26 . 2

sisters point

at the FASHION CAROUSEL by Danielle De Bie. The fashion carousel is spinning very fast! It’s all about the next big trend and owning coveted status symbols in a world obsessed with looks and image. Everyone wants to be wearing the hottest fashions and the sooner the better. Being on-trend shows that you’re in the know. But even today’s most sought-after “it” item is usually history by tomorrow. SisterS Point is the solution. The Danish fashion brand based in Arhus offers the latest trends as soon as they appear. Milan, Paris, New York, Berlin… the international catwalks are their inspiration. With their drive and talent SisterS Point converts these trends into headturning fashion and brings them directly to your wardrobe. Every week if you like, season after season, and all at great prices! Fashion Now: F 21 . 2

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ichi

Who dares, wins! by Anna Frost. Wouldn’t we all like to be the typical ICHI girl? A young lady who exudes confidence and explores the world with her eyes wide open, capturing the hearts of every man she meets, always one fashionable step ahead of the crowd whilst looking great with a touch of edginess that is also easy-going and uncomplicated. She knows what she wants and lives life to the full: every day is an adventure and a chance to express herself through her style, reinventing herself and making the odd personalised tweak or two. Mainstream is boring so she combines vintage with high fashion, creating unlikely looks, refusing to stick to style rules if she doesn’t want to and even inventing her own. She doesn’t take herself too seriously either and has fun with fashion. That’s why we admire her – because the ICHI girl dares to be different. Fashion Now: F 10 . 1

c o m pa Ñ Í a fa n tÁ s t i c a

Never out of style by Anna Frost. Not all brands like to be described as “trendy” and “in”. But words like uncomplicated, sophisticated and attention to detail pretty much hit the nail on the head when talking about Compañía Fantástica: the first choice for women who take their lives into their own hands, who act on the spur of the moment and who know what they want. Fashion doesn’t have to be a luxury if you can count on perfect outfits for every occasion that quench the cosmopolitan’s thirst for inspiration. Which is hardly surprising considering the designers are inspired by what they encounter on their travels. Denim, tulle, lace, romanticism, modernity or simply stunning chic – the garments are unique and in tune with the now. Peter Pan collars, for example, are already history for Compañía Fantástica. Fashion Now: F 19. 4

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Find us at the Gates and at the Luna Park!

Cooking course with celebrity chef Andreas schweiger this season the following brands support B&B for charity

Than k you very m uch !

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laughing

Hearts Bread&Butter for charity by Frank Brunner

It’s just before 6pm when the doorbell rings at the home of Sven, Steve, Daisy, Cora, Josefine and Lavinia. For three years the six siblings have been living at the Kinderhaus Berlin-Mitte children’s home, as their mother is seriously ill and unable to look after them on her own. There is a surprise in store for them on this particular evening. At the door is Nadine Weber from the Laughing Hearts association, holding a cheque for 1800 Euros. With this money the two boys and four girls between the ages of 4 and 13 will be able to fulfil their greatest wish: a holiday with their mother. Until now family holidays had been nothing but a distant dream and now they can finally enjoy a trip to the scenic Butjadingen peninsula in the North Sea. Just one true story of many... Since 2009 Laughing Hearts has been helping socially disadvantaged kids in Berlin. Help that is much needed. Almost 40 percent of the 490,000 children and young people under 18 in the German capital are at risk of poverty. The association now supports 14 children’s homes. “We want to make the children happy and give them stability and a perspective for the future,” says Nadine Weber. This is why Laughing Hearts invites the youngsters to see local Berlin sports teams in action, such as Hertha BSC (soccer) or the Eisbären (ice hockey), arranges theatre or cinema trips and bike rides, helps them look for vocational training positions and organises cooking courses with celebrity chef Andreas Schweiger.

Every month between five and ten events are organised by the non-profit organisation. The money to finance the projects mainly comes from sociallyresponsible companies in Berlin. “BREAD & BUTTER for Charity” has been helping Berlin children living in poverty since 2004, and has supported Laughing Hearts since 2011. Once again we invite you to visit the “B&B for Charity”-booth, where we sell items designed especially for the project like shirts, shoes and accessories. The entire proceeds from the collection are donated to Laughing Hearts. And once again several children from the homes will be able to experience the tradeshow live. Special highlight shortly before BBB: at the end of June, around 50 kids met up at the Berlin restaurant “Mom’s Favourite” for a big spaghetti feast. Afterwards they were able to pick out items of clothing provided free of charge by a children’s boutique and enter the “Who has the best shoe?” competition. TOM’S, a shoe label based in Los Angeles, gave each child a pair of shoes, which they were able to draw on and colour in, letting their creativity run wild. BREAD & BUTTER was instrumental in setting up the contacts for this cooperation. And TOM’S not only supports “B&B for Charity”. For every pair of shoes sold, they donate one pair to a child living in poverty. The label has meanwhile given away more than one million pairs and put a smile on the faces of one million children. BBB says thank you!

B r e a d & B u tt e r f o r c h a r i t y : L u n a p a r k & G a t e s

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Make hearts laugh!

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KnowledgeCotton Apparel Towel EUR 39.–

Pokket Mixer EUR 89.–

Anvil T-Shirt “The Rock ” EUR 29.–

2 0 Cent Smartphone Sticker EUR 5 .90

Armor Lux Under wear Men & Women EUR 29.–

BBB Mega St yle Magnets EUR 11 .–

Strict T-Shirt “The Rock ” EUR 29.–

Unlimited Fashion Line Pop Phone EUR 35 .–

Codello Scarf “The Rock ” EUR 39.–

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b u y A l i m i t e d i t e m AND s u p p o r t B & B f o r c h A r i t y MAGNO WoodenRadio MINI EUR 75 .– / 99.–

Armor Lux Baby Body EUR 35 .–

Bimba y Lola ets Uslu Airlines Nail Polish EUR 5 .– / 8 .–

Fruit of The Loom Kids T-Shirt EUR 15 .–

TOM ’s Shoes Adult / Youth / Tiny EUR 55 .– / 4 0.– / 35 .–

Fruit of The Loom Kids T-Shirt EUR 15 .–

Cruciani Bracelets “ Laughing Hearts” EUR 7.50

Fruit of The Loom Kids Hoodie EUR 29.–

Stetson Hat “The Rock ” EUR 79.–

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Superga

GLOBAL RUBBER SUPERLATIVE by TJ Bruder. As its name suggests, this Italian footwear brand is not short of superlatives: the first shoe to use rubber vulcanisation technology (in 1911), the first tennis shoe with a rubber sole and a history encompassing a whole century. Now a true global player, Superga has walked its way into many people’s shoe collections, including those of celebs Brad Pitt, Jessica Alba and Philippe Starck. High-profile creative collaborations, with the Olsen twins and Alexa Chung for example, are living proof of its status, creativity and perseverance to conquer. Presented as the “People’s shoes of Italy”, Superga’s creations feature a large selection of prints, colours and materials ready to adapt to any type of lifestyle – a truly “super” footwear chameleon! L.O.C.K.: L 34.3 & L 9

S a lvat o r e P i c c o l o

MISSION LUXURY by TJ Bruder. While many of us are still searching for our true calling in life, Salvatore Piccolo need look no further! Now in his early thirties, he has already spent half his life dedicated to shirtmaking. What started out as a job in an Italian shirt factory turned into a mission to create luxurious dress shirts. It is quite simply his attention to detail, dedication and hard work that have made him such a sought-after virtuoso of his craft. Stitch by stitch, these are the reasons why his creations are appreciated by people who value quality. The Salvatore Piccolo SS2013 collection is an exciting one, marking the launch of his first jacket line. And he is also expanding his shirt collection with the categories Special Indigo, Vintage Linen, Retro Line and Special White. L.O.C.K.: L 30.1

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L i g h t n i n g B o lt

BORN ON THE BEACHES by TJ Bruder. Deeply rooted in the Hawaiian surf culture of the 70s, Lightning Bolt still strikes with a fierce sense of freedom and adventure after more than four decades. Surfing icon Rory Russell, twice champion of the famous Pipeline Masters and the label’s poster child, helped propel the brand to great heights. Taglines like “A Pure Source” and “The Streak of Adventure” reveal the boldness of its soul and “A Wet Dream” is a reference to its free spirit. Originally born on the beaches of Maui, Lightning Bolt has since emerged from the salty waters and, in addition to its signature boardshorts, walkshorts and T-shirts, now offers denims, knits and light outerwear. Production methods now include exciting new ideas like polyester and yarn dyeing. ALOHA! L.O.C.K.: L 23.1

Gant Rugger

OFFSHOT REVIVAL by TJ Bruder. The G(i)ANT of “preppy” American East Coast Ivy League lifestyle with a large portion of European casual freedom. Originally from Connecticut, Gant started out offering only shirts, but over time, accompanied by a few acquisitions from Europe, has grown into a mature global lifestyle brand. Today it sells a full range of clothing for men, women and children in over 60 countries at 700 Gant stores and at a large number of selected premium retailers. Gant Rugger, an offshoot of Gant, is renow-ned for making rugby shirts an everyday fashion staple and is currently enjoying a revival, drawing on its original energy from the seventies, as well as its seemingly endless range of patterns, fabrics and colours. Gant: still American in spirit, modern and emancipated in style. L .O.C . K . : l 7. 1

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MassaUa

Passionate artisans by TJ Bruder. Time travel is always inextricably linked to juxtaposition and historic highlights. For Massaua, this is no different. Their unique quest for passion, craftsmanship and tradition is a homage to the finest natural materials, manual production and finishing. Berber wool, pure Zimbabwean cotton, a mix of Italian and Japanese traditional techniques, such as vegetable indigo dyeing and exclusive wool fabrics by Lanificio Bonotto, are just some of Massaua’s secret ingredients. Needless to say, its entire collection of men’s classics (trousers, jackets, waistcoats, shirts and ties) is handmade. Massaua line’s special combination of history and exceptional materials transformed by artisan processes results in a garment quality that is undeniably personal. F i r e D e p t. at L . O . C . K . : F D 1 5

Pedaled

Slowlutions for a fast world! by TJ Bruder. PEdALED, a cycling fashion label with a strong focus on sustainability is the brainchild of Japanese designer Hideto Suzuki. Disillusioned by short-lived fashions, Suzuki gave up his career as a fashion designer to design and build log cabins. Richer in experience, and with his favourite pastime of cycling in mind, he launched PEdALED in 2007. From the design to the production, the highly conscious label is entirely in Japanese hands. Intricate details, mostly natural materials and a smart fusion of urban outdoor style are keywords of the collection, which can be worn on or off your bike and includes jodhpur trousers called “hector” and a reflective denim jacket known as “tiny”, made from the world-renowned Okayama denim. F i r e D e p t. at L . O . C . K . : F D 6

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Lasco

100% AMERICA 110% STYLE by TJ Bruder. Lasco sneakers — 100% America, 110% indie style! Beyond typical corporate mechanisms and political (in)correctness there is a shoe brand that not only believes in the ultimate quality, but also in dignity and loyalty. When Greg Salas started the Los Angeles Shoe Company (Lasco) in 2008, he was fiercely determined to make it a 100% American production — from the sourcing of materials to the finishing touches. It wasn’t an easy feat, but four years later he has accomplished exactly that. With the reins completely in American hands, Lasco creates skater style sneaker masterpieces, using Horween Genuine Leather. Guaranteeing comfort and wearability with no compromises, these shoes make a lasting statement without being pretentious. F i r e D e p t. at L . O . C . K . : F D 4

Ta n n e r G o o d s

MADE TO LAST A LIFETIME by TJ Bruder. Form follows function at Tanner Goods in Oregon! A skilled team of artisan-minded designers and craftsmen is responsible for this “made to last a lifetime” collection. From shoes to wallets, bags, dog leads and collars, local materials are meticulously chosen and designs and processes carefully considered. Material highlights include vegetable tanned English Bridle American Leather that ages beautifully, and rare 10 oz. waxed canvas from the last textile mill of its kind in the USA. Drawing on tried and tested techniques and making use of vintage equipment really sets the label apart. The result: products that only get better over time and that you really form a bond with. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if all relationships lasted this long? F i r e D e p t. at L . O . C . K . : F D 2

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B y m ay r a f at e h

The zine For the first time ever, Street Fashion collaborates with the Berlin-based visual artist Atelier Conradi, to show the new fresh face of its brand portfolio with a creative bomb entitled THE ZINE. Spread on solely sixteen pages, the exclusive 800 produced copies are filled with this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brand highlights, a beautiful and extraordinary creative editorial and a focused zoom on selected products. Showing the finest and most influential collections of street fashion around, the unique rebellious aesthetic rising within the area, repre-

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senting lively youth culture at its best, was successfully translated onto static pages in THE ZINE. Apart from the printed version distributed to selected retailers, press, online media, and influencers worldwide, THE ZINE can also be viewed online at: www.breadandbutter.com/streetfashion Follow Street Fashion on Twitter & Instagram: @mayrafateh

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the artist Conny Dreher aka Atelier Conradi is thirty something and is what we can still call a true Berliner. The power worker studied fashion design and textiles at ESMOD Berlin, and after three years of working as a designer for Mustang Jeans she now decided to refocus on her first love; the world of illustration. Apart from proudly being part of the Berliner fashion label

and ladies crew LOOKYLOOKYPOSSE, and blogging on evewithoutadam.net, she is also designing visual works for music label such as Avotre and other local heroes. This is just the beginning! www.atelierconradi.de www.lookylookyposse.de

B u t, w h a t i s t h e St r e e t F a s h i o n a r e a r e a lly ? It is what each one of you could wear, any day, anytime and anywhere. It is what makes us feel confident, what will fit to any easy-going occasions. It is those good feeling basics, and those fearless looks which make parents roll their eyes, smile and say “we also wore that when we were young”. It is that unique piece which you wish no-one else in the world has; although you are fully aware that it is most probably a tumblr trend that each cool kid from down under could be wearing at the exact same time. But fans

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don’t care, and that’s what makes it special. Nobody cares, everybody just acts. They aren’t bound to trends; they just follow the ones they want to follow. They don’t care about your opinion; they just love you to turn heads when they are walking down the street – thank you for the free attention! Street Fashion is what brands sell but how you wear it, the unique twist which only you can give to the complete picture. Street Fashion is each and every one of you, making a desirable whole.

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BOY LON DON X STREET FASHION

Comeback Boy b y m ay r a f at e h

If you were following fashion throughout the 80’s and 90’s, you probably still remember the idiosyncratic eagle logo of this iconic brand. In 1977, founder and eccentric Stephane Raynor created the black and white trademark, which would become one of the most ubiquitous brands of this revolutionary era. Worn by pioneers such as Warhol, Madonna and Boy George, punks to new romantics, club kids to fashionistas, BOY always managed to infiltrate youth culture cutting right to its core, reaching out

to the epicenter of swag. Now, we can honorably say that BOY LONDON is celebrating its comeback – right inside of the Street Fashion Area! To celebrate the BOY presentation at BREAD & BUTTER, we are happy to present a 200 piece exclusive collaboration between BOY and the Street Fashion area. Reinventing the familiar cap, eagle logo tee and all-over printed leggings was our desire – leaving monochrome to the past and stepping into the future with silver details, for the first time ever, is our proud result.

Street Fashion : SF 2 0 . 2

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City Dolls E n g lish c o u ntryside v s . P arisian Chi c

3 5

1 . Dress NICE THINGS / 2 . Suede Moccasin MINNETONK A / 3 . Dress RARE LONDON / 4 . Metallic Heel Sandal VAGABOND / 5 . Silver Leather Jacket ELEVEN PARIS / 6 . Handbag LAVAND / 7. Lace Shorts ICHI / 8 . Blouse LAVAND / 9. Wooden Sandal KOAH / 1 0. Trousers KOOK AI / 11 . Blazer KOOK AI / 12 . Wallet DEPECHE D I S C O V ER IN S TY L E S O C IETY & FA S HION NO W

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r o c k ( t h e d e v i l s w a l l ) — Q u e d l i n b u r g

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man Rock

The

behind the

Ronin: the most of the right moment when it happens. by A n n e k at r i n lo o s s

You don’t look at these pictures. You look into them. Photos like symphonies – elaborately composed, charmingly staged, effectively tinted with colour. But always quietly. Each of Ronin’s photos emanates calmness. Even though the photographer himself is constantly on the move. He has worked as a photographer for more than 25 years – for Stern, Vogue and the magazine of the German newspaper Süddeutsche Zeitung. He has shot fashion, music and stars – and this season’s BBB campaign, including the cover of this Tradeshow Guide. The 45-year-old is just as much a part of Bread & Butter as the frenetic buzz of activity at the headquarters during the countdown to the tradeshow. It was inevitable that Ronin would take the photography career

path: his grandfather was a war-time photographer; his father had a darkroom at home and gave the then 13-year-old his first Leica. Ronin has been taking photos ever since. For three years he has dedicated himself exclusively to art, working as an oldschool photographer with a focus on modern pop-art interpretations. “I want to make colour harmonies visible, as well as emphasising the beauty of nature.” The people in his pictures remain splashes of paint, always anonymous, often in abstract poses. “I work a lot with extreme athletes and artists.” From the idea to the realisation it’s not uncommon for one or two years to pass. Ronin often waits hours, sometimes days, for the right light, but is always ready to make the most of the right moment when it happens.

Ronin — Whiteout 5.0 E x h i b i t i o n o p e n i n g : 4 J u ly 2 0 1 2 , 8 p . m . at t h e E m p o r e o f the Bread & Butter Entrance Hall

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Kiss — Berlin

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“ I want to make colour harmonies visible, as well as emphasising the beauty o f n at u r e .” (Ronin)

va l e r i — b e r l i n

You don‘t look at these pictures. You look into them. Photos like symphonies — elaborately composed, charmingly staged, effectively tinted with colour. But always quietly. Each of Ronin’s photos

emanates calmness. Even though the photographer himself is constantly on the move. He has worked as a photographer for more than 25 years — for Stern, Vogue and the magazine of the German newspaper Süddeutsche Zeitung. He has shot fashion, music and stars – and this season’s BBB campaign, including the cover of this Tradeshow Guide. The 45-year-old is just as much a part of Bread & Butter Berlin as the frenetic buzz of activity at the headquarters during the countdown to the tradeshow. It was inevitable that Ronin would take the photography career path: his grandfather was a war-time photographer; his father had a darkroom at home and gave the then

The clowns — engelberg , Switzerland

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THE SQUARING OF THE PAT R I C K M O h r : I M P E R F E C T P E R F E C T I O N by Danielle de bie

The triangle is an important element in Munich designer Patrick Mohr’s life. It constantly crosses his path, as if by fate. Why? He doesn’t know; all he knows is that he feels protected by triangles, safe somehow. They are omnipresent in his life: in his apartment, in his atelier in a Munich courtyard, as a tattoo on his chest and, of course, the triangle is an integral part of his trademark. After our chat I set about finding an explanation for this triangle story – mythology and world religions attribute the most diverse symbolism to the triangle. For Plato, the Greek philosopher, the equilateral triangle was the symbol of perfection… Is it Patrick Mohr’s desire to attain perfection through imperfection? When he presented his first collection in July 2009, he gave the imperfect a stage, in the most spectacular way: it was 25 homeless people who presented his designs at Berlin Fashion Week! A scandal in the fashion circus, where blingbling and glamour usually prevail. A world which Patrick doesn’t really know what to make of anyway. His show was the talk of the town – in her highly anticipated report following her Berlin visit, Suzie

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Menkes, the much-feared fashion critic of the International Herald Tribune, only found two names worth mentioning: Boss and… Patrick Mohr, the new hope for German fashion. Of course he was delighted, who wouldn’t be?! But mostly about the fact that he had managed to attract a little attention to a subject which is all too often swept under the carpet, as well as giving a little recognition to those people most of us prefer to ignore. And the shows of the following seasons were no less spectacular: in January 2010 he sent androgynous models in bearded, bald-headed masks down the catwalk – the show was rated by the NY Times as the “best event” – this was followed in July by bodybuilders with rabbit teeth. But the audience was almost disappointed by his surprisingly moderate show in January 2011 – no less impressive, but different to what the chic and beautiful had been expecting of the enfant terrible from Munich. Suddenly the designer was focusing on showing his beautiful clothing, the only imperfection was the models’ faces, their mouths unrecognisable; one small remnant of the

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extreme and a reminiscence of the creative and the artistic he carries inside him, and which are such a big part of him. Patrick not only sees himself as a creative and an artist, but also as a businessman – an approach unfortunately rarely followed by talented young designers! He’s not interested in being in the spotlight, in which one all too often becomes a victim of beauty. He wants to see the fashion that he makes worn not only by millionaires but also by the “ordinary people”, as he calls them – people like him, for whom luxury means more than “the more expensive, the better”. But this only works when he confronts the extreme with the wearable, when his work breaks through the boundaries of the avant-garde and when he is well positioned on all levels. None of his garments cost more than 500 Euros – that is important to him! And with his somewhat different streetwear collection he is showing everyone that ambitious design and quality do not have to suffer because of moderate prices. And he must be on the right track: how else can it be explained that such renowned stores as Pool in Munich, which stocks designs by names like Dries van Noten, Maison Martin Margiela and Rick Owens, have been supporting Patrick from the outset?! When I rang the store, stating the reason for my call, all I heard down the line, even before I could finish my sentence, was a spontaneous “Patrick is great!”, which told me a lot about the enthusiasm his products and personality engender.

His jeans “are also great!” Stretchy. Chewy. Fancy. Tasty. Under the name Quadrangle. Two styles, Chives and Carrot, unisex, one length, all made in Europe, for 99 Euros! Trademark: the little, squareshaped stud with – what else? – a triangle. Also available at Pool where they are flying off the shelves! Perhaps also because he has set the bar so high. He, of all people, who didn’t used to have a clue about denim… And so the imperfect one set about creating perfection, as he wanted to show the world that he could create the perfect jeans. And he has succeeded! And this is where we come full circle, as a large, equilateral triangle with the tip pointing downwards represents trust in divine guidance and points to the fact that we, ourselves, are the cause of everything that happens to us. I wish you every continued success, Patrick Mohr. From the bottom of my heart! Patrick on Patrick:

“ I ’ m ma d e u p of corner s an d e d g e s , an d h a v e b een t h e trian g u l ar pe g in a s q u are h o l e a l l m y l ife . ” Sometimes it’s exactly in these corners that true talent and success lie.

temple of denim: TD 6

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Flip*Flop

83 gram summer

By A n n e k at r i n Lo o s s

The concept couldn’t be simpler: one sole, two straps… it’s not a trick, it’s a Flip*Flop. The ultimate synonym for sun, sea and sand. Flip*Flops were presented in Germany for the first time in 1998; a few years later they were celebrated as Vogue’s 2002 Highlight of the Year – and have been the most well-known beach shoes ever since. There is a family-run company behind the brand: in addition to Kangaroos and Flip*Flop, father Bernd D. Hummel also runs a company specialised in the refurbishment of business properties. While Julia Hummel (32) joined Kangaroos as creative director in 2008, her sister Anne-Katrin (34) has been promoting Flip*Flop since 2007. She is an architect and was only supposed to design a Flip*Flop store but ended up taking on the management and design for the whole brand. One of her most important steps was developing of a textile collection: “I always think in terms of full outfits: a scarf to match the dress, shoes to match the bracelet, necklace or belt”, Anne-Katrin says. So the offer includes bikinis, necklaces,

trousers and scarves that can all be effortlessly combined. Just like the classic Flip*Flop – the brand’s 83 gram bestseller to date – which this summer will be available in neon and pastel colours. A special honour for the brand was its cooperation with Kostas Murkudis, who is meanwhile head designer of Hamburg label Closed. “I met Kostas when he needed leather flip-flops for a show. We hit it off straight away.” The idea of making shoes together soon followed. With his designs featuring striking ribbed high heels and soles, either in brightly coloured layers, or elegant in just one colour, the 47-year-old is helping Flip*Flop establish itself as a shoe label to be reckoned with. Flip*Flop is all about holidays. And as everyone loves anything to do with holidays, their customer base is constantly growing: the third Flip*Flop store, after Amsterdam and Berlin, opened on 2 May 2012 in Cologne. Suitable premises are yet to be found in Hamburg and Munich. And the label is also keen to expand its network of international retail partners.

U r b a n s u p e r i o r w o m e n : SR 1 6 . 2

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desigual

A Kind of MAGIC

b y D a n i e ll e d e b i e

Desigual speaks its very own language. When the label was launched in 1984 under the motto “Desigual is not the same” the world of fashion was instantly made that little bit brighter with its colourful cheerful designs. Desigual is like a hearty laugh that exudes pure joie de vivre and optimism and brings joy to others. The innovative label is always on the lookout for new creative ideas to provide their customers the world over with the next brightly coloured surprise. And Cirque du Soleil also makes the world a little bit brighter. Founded in 1984 by the street artists Guy Laliberté and Daniel Gauthier in Montreal, Canada, their first shows were an absolute sensation. The Australian “Circus of the Sun” redefined the word circus all over again and set benchmarks in the world of artists and travelling performers, causing a small revolution in the entertainment industry – never before had there

been such an intense form of artistic expression, embedded in a spectacle of music and colours – acrobatics at their very best. The fascination of the elaborate, fanciful costumes, the acrobats’ artistic skills and the fascinating backdrops of the Cirque du Soleil inspired Desigual to create a most unusual collection: “Desigual inspired by Cirque du Soleil”. Handfinished designs, baroque elements as a homage to old circus traditions, elaborate cotton embroidery and sequins, fabrics hand painted with motifs from various Cirque du Soleil shows and provocative, precious designs from the world of theatre – every garment incorporates a detail inspired by the costumes of the Cirque du Soleil artists. “Desigual inspired by Cirque du Soleil” is probably the most unusual interpretation of the magic of Cirque du Soleil... a unique spectacle with the unmistakeable Desigual signature!

Denim Base: D 35

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NEVER LOSE

THE KID INSIDE! JCDC: secrets of youth by jean-charles de Castelbajac

by Danielle de bie

Is it something to do with his origins? Born in Casablanca in 1949, the French fashion designer JeanCharles de Castelbajac harks from an old aristocratic family from Gascogne, a historical province in south-western France. Not unlike d’Artagnan! The chevalier and legendary musketeer from the pen of Alexandre Dumas is – like Jean-Charles de Castelbajac – a child of Gascogne – proud, intrepid, fearless, brave and romantic. Always ready for another audacious adventure. An daring comparison perhaps... I had the opportunity to meet Monsieur de Castelbajac personally a few years ago after an event in Berlin – an encounter I’ll never forgot! A true experience! Mesmerized, we listened this storyteller: curious, untiring, always soaking up new impressions and weaving new stories out of them. He uses fashion to tell these stories, and to cast people under his spell. Early on, at the age of 19, Jean-Charles created his first collection for Ko and Co., a fashion house belonging to his mother Jeanne-Blanche de Castelbajac. His first fashion show followed in 1969. And in 1979, the thirty-year-old founded his own brand and rose to become the celebrated star of the New Age era. De Castelbajac always moved outside of the conventional. He played with hightech elements and was one of the first to bridge the gap between fashion and functionality – lengthening a ski-jacket to create a quilted coat – which has been copied countless times! He is famous for his striking prints – logos, messages and B r e a d & B u tt e r b e r l i n

images in bright colours. His fractured chic stirred passions. His hand-painted fabrics exemplified the “wearable art” movement of the 80s. De Castelbajac is fascinated by everyday objects – sticky tape, Lego blocks, dolls... nothing is too ordinary to awaken his curiosity. He loves film, music and art. This ceaseless fascination and love form the fertile ground out of which his fashion and artworks grow: a blend of culture and the everyday, paired with a conceptional thinking as the highest guiding principle. Far more than a fashion designer in the classical sense, he is an artist who employs fashion to tell his stories; a visionary acting outside of trends, a lateral thinker who refuses to be categorised – it’s impossible to squeeze him into one of the usual fashion industry boxes. Inexhaustible, he followed the call of his colleagues: besides working on his own collection, he designed the Sportmax line for the Italian brand Max Mara, and in the mid-1990s, designed for the famous Paris studio Courrèges. In the new millennium, the experimenter broke through the limits of prêt-à-porter, and designed a Limited Edition for the traditional French sneaker brand Le Coq Sportif and cooperated with the young label, Smiley Collection. De Castelbajac made film costumes for Woody Allen’s “Annie Hall”, for Isabelle Adjani in “Violette & François”, and Rie Rasmussen in Brian De Palma’s “Femme Fatale”. In 2003, SarahJessica Parker wore his creations in Sex and the City, while in 2009 Lady Gaga caused an uproar with his coat made out of Kermit puppets. 143

V a n e ss a P a r a d i s

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, fashion designer for the stars. In 1997, he was even invited to the Vatican to design the robes of Pope John Paul II. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac loves the unusual. He is driven by a restless spirit, always looking for the next adventure, the next challenge. Now he has found it in JCDC, his young label, launched in 2010. Exceptional, colourful and eye-catching – JCDC is an homage to one of his most important sources of inspiration: Pop Art. De Castelbajac’s collection is a canvas for forms, colours and patterns that are reminiscent of Andy Warhol, Keith Haring and Michel Basquiat, but nonetheless carry the unique signature of their creator. JCDC, the young, affordable fashion line by Monsieur de Castelbajac is a fresh, modern collection for fashionistas who love the extraordinary. JCDC is a statement: bold, intrepid, fearless and... a little bit romantic. Just like the two gentlemen from Gascogne, d’Artagan the chevalier and JeanCharles de Castelbajac, the aristocrat. And thankfully, the kid who lives on inside of him! Please, dear Jean-Charles, never stop playing! St yle soci et y: ST 16 . 2

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An honest dedication to high-quality manufacturing. Icon pieces for your wardrobe that will stay with you for a long time. Products to be worn and lived in. Brought to you with expert knowledge

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www.14oz-berlin.com

and a down-to-earth attitude.

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A strong, profiled portfolio of up-and-coming & signature brands.

Neue SchĂśnhauser StraĂ&#x;e 13 . 10178 Berlin . Germany Monday to Saturday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Call: +49 (0)30 280 40 514

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any question? Anything? Anytime? Anywhere?

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be the place to for fashion.

Berlin. Stylish. Progressive. En vogue.

Fashion Made in Berlin.

July 3–8, 2012 www.fashion-week-berlin.de

International, unconventional, distinctive – creative professionals all over the world have their eye on Berlin. Today, hardly any other city sets as many trends as the German capital while simultaneously being an affordable and great place to live. Fashionistas, designers and photographers continue to be inspired by Berlin’s unfinished charm: at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, at the BREAD & BUTTER and PREMIUM fairs and in many stores and clubs. This is great news for the roughly 800 labels active in the Berlin-Brandenburg capital region. Their clientele has tremendous purchasing power, a new generation of well-educated designers is emerging, and funding is made to measure. How does Berlin suit you? www.berlin-partner.de | www.businesslocationcenter.de/Fashion

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Authentizität, Service und

„

qualitativ hochwertige Produkte stehen bei der Auswahl unserer Lieferanten an erster Stelle. Die TextilWirtschaft liefert uns wöchentlich segmentübergreifende Nachrichten und wichtige Informationen.

Daniel Werner, Store Manager, 14 oz. Berlin

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NEWS

FASHION

BUSINESS

WIR MACHEN MARKEN

D: 8€, A: 8€, CHF: 11, LUX: 8€, B: 8,50€, NL: 9,50€, I: 9€ F: 9€, SKR: 80, DKR: 75, NKR: 80, UK: £8, USA/others: $12

Summer 2012 | Issue 5

B&B Media partners fashion & lifest yle Pres s

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design is all in we go all in We believe in the potential of what people can achieve. We believe in designing only the best. Explore the adidas design studios at our World of Sport headquarters in southern Germany.

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18.06.12 17:51

CONFIDENT, STRONG, ELEGANT WITH A DOWN-TO-EARTH ATTITUDE

WE ARE LOOKING FOR QUALIFIED, ENTHUSIASTIC AND EXPERIENCED STAFF (M/F) In October, we will open our new destination at the Berlin Kurfürstendamm in the “Haus Cumberland”. For this extraordinary store, we’re looking for qualified, enthusiastic and experienced staff. Please send your complete application and CV in German by E-mail to: Daniel Werner – Store Manager 14 oz. Berlin d.werner@14oz-berlin.com

www.14oz-berlin.com

With more than 20 years experience in

ASSISTANT in the b&b sales department

recruiting and executive search for the fashion, lifestyle and sports industry we have the market knowledge as well as the appropriate feeling for the fashion world to

BREAD & butter – tradeshow for selected brands is now offering a permanent position as assistant in the sales department (Denim Base & L.O.C.K) in our headquarters in Berlin. We offer: – an international working environment – a wide range of tasks in a young team Tasks: – Team assistance, customer service, organization & communication, research and customer acquisition – Back office Requirements: – University degree or equivalent education in business, com munication, fashion or in textile & clothing technology

– Experience with jobs, intern ships and education in one of the above mentioned fields required – Language skills: fluent in English and second language Italian, French or Japanese; German is a plus – Computer skills: standard programs (MS Office) – Experience in database-driven application software is a plus – Soft skills: self-initiative, ambi tion, being communicative and able to work in a team, being able to work in a well-struc tured and independent way, stress resistance

Please send your complete application to the following address: by Email: alex.kernlinger@breadandbutter.com by mail: BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG, Attn: Alexander Kernlinger Münzstr. 13, 10178 Berlin, Germany

www.breadandbutter.com

satisfy your individual needs.

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Our network offers access to the industry’s talents and executive specialists – see it from a company’s perspective as well as an employee’s!

GHC Fashion Recruiting Schackstrasse 1 D-80539 Munich Tel. +49 89 120 21 85-13 Fax +49 89 120 21 85-12 andreas.huber@ghcompany.de

We are looking for

SALES AGENTS for Germany and worldwide Please send your full application, including CV, job references as well as a recent photo by email to: Sandra Erlacher s.erlacher@schiesser.com

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We are looking for German & European Distributors. Please visit us at booth XY to discuss. Contact: Andy Gadsden andy@jujushoes.co.uk Cell: 07825367618

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Berlin c

city map

Goodbye & See you on 16 –18 January 2013