BNE Magazine Issue 30

FR EE YO M UR AG AZ IN E

ISSUE #30 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019

LET’S GO

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QUICK GETAWAYS Why the PACIFIC ISLANDS are hot right now Coast to coast by train

FOOD

Adam Liaw’s Chinese odyssey

WHAT’S ON

SPOTLIGHT ON NEW TALENT

LIAM HEMSWORTH

We’re getting runway ready Brisbane’s new runway will take you more places and make us better connected than ever before.

Stay up to date: bne.com.au/newrunway

Welcome to your free BNE magazine, brought to you by Brisbane Airport

F

lat out is how we want to be at this time of year, and we don’t mean ‘busy’. No this is the time our heads turn to our next holiday (even if we’re already on one) and there’s plenty of inspiration in this issue, from the white sand beaches of the Pacific islands on our doorstep (see pages 14-19) to the city and country short breaks in our yearlong guide to quick getaways, all 52 of them (on pages 12-13), or the rail journey that crosses the country coast to coast (see pages 24-25). There’s bound to be something you haven’t done yet. And the one thing we never leave home without is a good book (see page 36) because, for the holiday purist, screen time on a vacay is totally taboo. Happy holidays …

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CONTENTS 4 5 8

Brisbane Airport News

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Next chapter for books

24

Great train adventure

42

Tallebudgera for teens

Vision for future airport; program for career development Technology can’t beat our passion for printed books

Liam Hemsworth

Why he’s the perfect love hero

STYLE 10 Colour splash

An Australian fashion designer and an American artist team up to create a vibrant collection

ESCAPE 12 52 short breaks 14 17 20

Pack your bags for a quick getaway

Samoa, the happy place

Pacific dreaming

Canada’s stately chateaux

Feel like royalty in the stylish surrounds of these hotels that look like fairytale castles

Coast to coast on The Ghan

A 13-year-old shares his highlights at this favourite holiday spot

I QUEENSLAND 26 Ashleigh Barty Tennis player

TASTE 29 A taste of China 30

Why this Pacific paradise is the next best thing Find adventure, new cultures and natural beauty at these island destinations on Brisbane’s doorstep

Escape Extra

What’s new, including ‘Martian Domes’ and an ‘underground hotel’

Adam Liaw’s very personal culinary journey and a recipe to make

What’s new

All night dining, Howard Smith Wharves open for business, and more

WHAT’S ON 32 New talent in spotlight 34

Plus dance in wonderland; rom-com on stage, and more

Art of fashion

Cultural connections in art; cracking comedy, and more

BNE magazine is published bi-monthly by Brisbane Airport Corporation Brisbane Airport Corporation Corporate Communications and Media Manager: Leonie Vandeven Managing Editor: Heather McWhinnie (editor@bnemagazine.com.au) Advertising sales: advertising@bnemagazine.com.au Designers: Leanne Thompson and Mhari Hughes, PrintPublish Intern: Aneira Pretorius

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35

Events calendar

Find out what’s happening around the city

GALLERY 37 Day in the life

People in transit at Brisbane Airport

NEED TO KNOW 38 Helpful information for

visitors to Brisbane Airport

40 43

Destination map Brisbane region map

©2019 Brisbane Airport Corporation.

The contents of this publication are not for reproduction, redistribution or reuse by any means whatsoever or in any form whatsoever without express permission of the publisher. Advertising: all advertisements in BNE magazine are the responsibility of advertisers. Advertising is accepted on the understanding that it does not contravene the Trade Practices Act. Responsibility is not accepted by BNE magazine for statements made or the failure of any product or service to give satisfaction. The publication of any material or editorial does not necessarily constitute endorsement of views or opinions expressed. While every effort is made to avoid errors, some information contained in the publication may be superceded.

BNE January/February 2019 | 3

BRISBANE AIRPORT NEWS

PROGRAM HELPING

YOUNG VISION

for future airport

As Brisbane Airport plans to open public consultation on its draft Master Plan for 2020, management is already looking ahead 20 years (as it did prior to the development of the new runway set to open next year) and already students at five Brisbane schools have been invited to share their vision.

It began three years ago with a collaboration between Brisbane Airport Corporation and St Paul’s School in Brisbane’s northern suburbs when Year 3 students were tasked with imagining the air travel experience of the future and to provide ideas for everything from improved infrastructure and transport systems to aircraft, entertainment, security, baggage handling and catering. From hovercraft wheelchairs to ziplines that connect different parts of the airport, there have been no limits to their ingenuity.

In a two-day design symposium held before end of term last year students from St Paul’s were joined by more future thinkers from schools at Morningside, Coorparoo, Kelvin Grove and Petrie. Their ‘prototypes’ included a mass transit system to distribute everything from shopping, cargo and fuel around the airport, a wind farm at the bay to charge batteries used across the precinct, and a remote facility for driverless cars giving easy access to the precinct for passengers, visitors and workers.

Brisbane Airport Corporation’s Master Plan program manager Steve Grant says the workshops are important to see the future airport through the eyes of the next generation of travellers and stakeholders and St Paul’s School design teacher Justin Hill agrees.

“These 8-year-olds are able to let their imagination influence their ideas. Their fresh ideas could be the next level of innovation that Brisbane Airport needs in preparing for 2040,” he says.

4 | BNE January/February 2019

When Geoff Fabila (pictured above) travelled to Europe recently he was paying closer attention to the airport terminals he was passing through than your average holidaymaker and it taught him a lot about the passenger experience, he says. It wasn’t officially a work trip but, unofficially, it provided some valuable research for the new job he started soon after he returned.

Fabila, 22, is the new Terminals Facilitation Co-ordinator working within the operations team at Brisbane Airport in his first job since completing his Business and Commerce degree last year. In his new role Fabila will be looking closely at how to make the passenger’s journey through Brisbane Airport as easy and efficient as possible, from check-in and bag drop to boarding and from the arrival gate.

“When I was overseas, I noticed what they were doing in the airports I travelled through; the way people moved around and the good things they did. Even though there were language barriers, I noticed how important it was to have simple way-finding and people to help and reassure you if you are confused. Even if those people smile it can really change your experience and that happened to me a few times,” he says. “I realised how well we do that here in Brisbane.”

Fabila may be new in his job but he is already very familiar with the workings of Brisbane Airport. Before he was appointed to his newly created position he had been working at the airport for almost two years, starting as Brisbane Airport Corporation’s first intern from the Career Trackers program and taking on parttime roles around the airport while he was studying for his university degree.

Career Trackers is a national internship program for Indigenous students and, with connections to the Jabirr Jabirr people of north Western Australia, Fabila was eligible to apply through his university.

The program pairs tertiary students with companies for a summer internship that typically lasts three months but Fabila showed an appetite for learning and a willingness to work hard which opened up opportunities at Brisbane Airport that continued for 18 months. In that time Fabila was able to see how all aspects of the airport work, from retail and marketing to media and communications, customer experience and operations.

It’s led Fabila in quite a different direction than he expected when he first started university. “I didn’t really know what I wanted to do when I first enrolled in university but the internship opened my eyes to a whole other world that I hadn’t thought of (as a career) before. I discovered I’m a ‘people person’. I love the mobility of my position at the airport. I don’t think I could sit in one spot all day, I prefer getting out to meet all sorts of people.”

Career Trackers is a non-profit organisation that works with companies across Australia to create internship opportunities and hosts leadership development programs for Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander tertiary students. Brisbane Airport Corporation has just taken on its third intern in the program and Career Trackers has also partnered with organisations including Accor, Tourism and Events Queensland, Qantas and Top Deck Travel. They estimate that by 2020 there will be 1000 graduates of the Career Trackers program in the workforce.

Photography by Grace Smith

build careers

FEATURE

A NEW CHAPTER

for books

Not even technology can beat a good book, as these independent booksellers show, writes Tonya Turner

Julie Tjiandra, of Scrumptious Reads

Photography by Marc Grimwade

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en years ago it was all doom and gloom for bookshops.

The prediction was that e-books would kill off the print industry and online sales would see bookshops become a thing of the past. But while technology has made its disruptions, print book sales are on the rise, e-book sales have plateaued and people continue to seek out a tactile experience when it comes to not just reading their books but browsing and buying them too.

In 2017 print book sales in Australia totalled $1.07 billion, marking four years of continuous growth according to Nielsen BookScan. The intimate spaces of independent bookstores have played a big part, where people can enjoy the real-life experience of talking to dedicated owners and staff, attend author talks and events, and leave holding their next read in their own two hands. Meet three Brisbane bookshop owners writing their own chapter in the tale of the independents.

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FEATURE ARCHIVES FINE BOOKS

Hamish Alcorn

In a heritage-listed building on Charlotte Street in the heart of the CBD, Archives Fine Books is a kind of antidote to the high-end retailers and multi-million dollar showrooms on nearby Queen Street Mall. Signs out the front of what is believed to be the state’s largest second-hand bookstore read “1,000,000 books” and “cash for books”. Once inside, the smell of old books reawakens the senses. Tall timber bookshelves are filled with books on every topic imaginable and tables are set out library-style for customers to peruse, read and contemplate.

After completing a degree in classics and ancient history and stints at beekeeping, bakery work and online editing, Hamish Alcorn took over Archives in 2008. “I begged and borrowed to take up the opportunity,” he says. “I love books, I love old things and I love the smell, provenance and history of second-hand books.”

At the time of writing, Archives has the only William Blake on the market in Australia, a collection of 19th century English historian Agnes Strickland’s work and a poetry collection that belonged to Queensland poet and artist Billy Jones.

Last year Alcorn and his partner Dawn Albinger celebrated 10 years running the bookshop which first opened in 1985. Although they’ve had to slash prices, cut staff, reduce their opening hours and be careful with purchasing to survive, they are excited about what lies ahead, including poetry launches and creating libraries for businesses and private homes.

“One of the reasons we have survived I think is because Archives has always been a booklover’s store,” Hamish says. “There is a solid portion of the population who still purchase books and we are, of course, cheaper as well as stocking many books which are out of print.

There is a smaller, but still important, portion of people, including young people, who actually prefer secondhand books, for the feel of history.”

SCRUMPTIOUS READS

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BOOKSHOPS FOR THEBUCKET LIST THESE STORES ARE TOP SPOTS FOR BROWSING IF YOU LIKE A GOOD READ

Image: Shutterstock

If you’re looking for a book that has anything to do with food, you’ll likely find it at Scrumptious Reads. The Brisbane bookshop owned by Julie Tjiandra is tucked up against a small homewares store and café on a quiet street in inner-city Red Hill. With its French windows, black and white chequered floors and spiral staircase, the charming store offers culinary inspiration from every corner of the globe including cookbooks, specialty magazines, chef biographies and foodie fiction.

Scrumptious Reads opened in Fortitude Valley’s trendy James Street in 2012 and relocated to its bigger Red Hill premises five years later. “We needed more space because of all the events,” Julie says. The former landscape architect and events manager had always wanted to own a bookstore. “Cookbooks bring the reader into the minds of other cultures. They teach us not just about food but also the history, traditions and customs of different lands,” she says. “Over the last decade or so there has been an increase in awareness about all aspects of food, where it comes from, how it has been raised and grown. With this awareness the thirst for knowledge has also increased and the number of books published covering all aspects of the culinary world has been on the increase every year.”

Along with author talks and workshops, a cookbook club has been key to the store’s success. The monthly event held in the private dining room downstairs sees chef and ex-Masterchef contestant Danielle Dixon choose a menu to cook from a featured book and follow the recipes exactly to reveal how they work.

On any given day, customers may also find themselves rubbing shoulders with some of the city’s most renowned chefs such as Ben Williamson (Gerard’s Bistro), Shaun Malone (Bucci) and PJ McMillan (Harvey’s/Tinderbox Kitchen) as they browse the shelves searching for culinary wisdom. With renovations well underway, Julie has big plans for the future. “I’m in it for the long haul,” she says. “The number of independent bookstores in Brisbane shows that customers still love the experience of going into a bookstore and supporting their local businesses.”

PULP FICTION After working in the book trade for most of his adult life Ron Serdiuk moved to Brisbane in 1995 when he decided to open his own bookshop, Pulp Fiction. Specialising in science fiction, fantasy, crime and mystery, the small store is tucked away up the stairs at the back of an arcade on Adelaide Street.

Although it might not get a lot of foot traffic, its strong base of loyal customers are more than familiar with its hidden location and have helped to ensure its survival for 24 years and counting. “Because we’re so specialist we have a lot of depth in the genres we keep,” Serdiuk says. “We talk to our customers quite a lot as most are regulars and they’re the best source of information about what’s good, bad or indifferent … Books that are bestsellers here at Pulp are frequently things that no bookshop anywhere else has likely even heard of.”

Keeping up with publishing trends has also been vital. “One minute it’s all about science fiction then suddenly variations of fantasy are in. Vampires, urban fantasy, then steampunk, then flintlock fantasy. Then the pendulum swings again and it’s something else that’s the new direction,” Serdiuk says.

The genres sold at the store are among the most popular in the e-book format which he admits has made things difficult, but not impossible. “It’s part of the mix now and you just have to work with it and fortunately it seems that many people get sick of reading onscreen for work all day and would rather just have an actual book for recreational reading,” he says.

Millions of books will be on sale at bargain prices at the next Lifeline Bookfest 19-27 January at Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane. Entry is free. The last event helped raise more than $1.1 million for the 24-hour Lifeline Crisis Support Line.

Ron Serdiuk

SHAKESPEARE AND COMPANY 37 rue de la Bûcherie, Paris V Shakespeare and Company is an Englishlanguage bookshop in the heart of Paris, on the Left Bank. Since opening in 1951, it has become a literary institution, a meeting place for anglophone writers and readers from around the world. The shop’s founder, the late George Whitman, said he created the bookstore like someone would write a novel, building each room like a chapter.

“I like people to open the door the way they open a book, a book that leads into a magic world in their imaginations,” he said.

Now run by his daughter Sylvia, it is host to literary festivals, weekly events and, as in the old days, aspiring writers can sleep over.

There’s also a café.

CITY LIGHTS 261 Columbus Avenue, San Francisco, California City Lights was a literary meeting place

for the Beat Generation and its legacy of anti-authoritarian politics and insurgent thinking continues to be a strong influence in the selection of titles found in store across a broad range of categories including poetry, fiction, translations, politics, history, philosophy, music, spirituality and more. It also publishes titles under the City Lights masthead, reinforcing its commitment to innovative and progressive ideas. The shop may have become world-famous but it has retained an intimate, casual and anarchic charm.

THE BOOKSHOP 17 North Main Street, Wigtown, Scotland Scotland doesn’t just have a legendary bookshop it has a National Book Town, Wigtown, home to about 1000 residents (and thousands more visitors during the Wigtown Book Festival, on from 27 September to 6 October in 2019) and 12 bookshops beside the sea in the southern

region of Galloway and its oldest bookshop is, well, The Bookshop. It’s also Scotland’s largest second-hand bookshop boasting about 100,000 books within its walls. The Diary of a Bookseller by owner Shaun Bythell is a must-read before you go.

ATLANTIS BOOKS Oia, Santorini, Greece Oliver Wise and Craig Walzer were university students on holiday in Santorini when they were inspired, over a few glasses of whiskey, to open their bookshop.

Sixteen years later they now also sell rare antiquarian books and collectors’ first editions, and publish their own books and posters. The shop stocks literature in English, French, Italian, Spanish, German, Chinese and, of course, Greek. There are new and used books of modern classic fiction and non-fiction as well as selections of poetry, philosophy, art, and all things Greek interest. In the summer season it is open until midnight.

BNE January/February 2019 | 7

COVER STORY

LIAM HEMSWORTH

He’s the new love hero on screen and off

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L

ike his older brother, Chris, before him Liam Hemsworth is winning hearts as a leading man in Hollywood. As far back as 2010 Details magazine selected the younger Hemsworth as one of its ‘Next Generation Leading Men’ and he has since fulfilled that prediction with roles in The Hunger Games franchise (opposite Jennifer Lawrence), The Dressmaker (opposite Kate Winslet) and he will be seen next in Isn’t it Romantic (opposite Rebel Wilson) on screens from Valentine’s Day. But off screen too, there’s a lot to love about the youngest Hemsworth who turns 29 in January, including …

He loves his work Hemsworth was interested in acting from a young age, performing in plays when he was at school, and landing a recurring role on Neighbours at age 17. With two older brothers who had both been on the soap before him, the youngest Hemsworth says he was inspired to pursue acting from watching them. And, although they admit to a ‘friendly’ rivalry in most things, they continue to support each other in their acting careers.

“In my eyes I’ve never seen someone work harder or care about something more than my brother Chris. There’s never a time where he would cut corners or be half-ass at it. He puts absolutely everything into his work. When I first started auditioning, he always made sure that I knew my lines. Chris has a true passion for making films. And he’s [bloody] good at it.”

It’s a passion shared. “In high school I never considered doing something that I wasn’t passionate about. From a young age I wanted to make movies because I simply loved movies.

It never made sense to me to go off and do the standard nine-to-five job in something I didn’t enjoy. I think it’s why I became successful. If you’re truly passionate about something you’ll make it happen,” Hemsworth told online magazine Lane.

He loves his family According to Hemsworth, the drive comes from his parents. “They always taught us to be open minded about all walks of life and to work hard at something we love. They gave us the freedom and responsibility to make our own choices, which I think was one of the greatest gifts you can give a child. Something I’ll pass onto my children one day,” he says.

He loves animals Hemsworth is often photographed with his dog Tani (opposite page), and she’s not the only one in the menagerie he shares with fiancée Miley Cyrus. Tani is a rescue dog and Hemsworth is a big supporter of the cause, encouraging others to do the same. “If you’re going to get a dog, get a rescue,” he says. More poignantly, Cyrus gave him a big shout out on social media recently, calling him a hero, when he rounded up all their animals to save them from the Malibu fires which eventually destroyed their property. Hemsworth has even changed his diet partly because of his views on animal welfare.

He loves food While being interviewed about his training regimen during filming of The Hunger Games Hemsworth admitted it was tough. “I’m an eater,” he said. “If I have one addiction in life, it’s probably food.” But co-star Woody Harrelson helped change his perspective and soon after filming wrapped Hemsworth became vegan.

“He’s (Harrelson) been vegan for, I don’t know, 30 years or something. So, with the facts I was gathering and then just how I was physically feeling, I felt like I had to do something different, so I adopted this vegandiet lifestyle,” he told Men’s Fitness at the time.

“I’ve found no negatives to eating like this. I feel nothing but positive, mentally and physically. I love it. I feel like it also has a kind of a domino effect on the rest of my life,” he said.

That appears to be including his brother Chris, who has also had to follow a strict training regimen for his role as Thor. “Chris is obviously extremely healthy and has had to work out a lot over the past few years but he’s constantly trying to figure out what’s best for his system. Through talking to me, he’s somewhat adapting, I think, to eating more vegetables and more plant-based stuff.”

Hemsworth on the set of Isn’t it Romantic Images this page: James Devaney and Gotham/Getty Images

Hemsworth also happens to be an amazing cook, says fiancée Miley Cyrus, and he’s not too shy to admit it. “I studied cooking all through high school,” Hemsworth explains.

He loves the outdoors The Hemsworth boys spent their childhood on Phillip Island, south of Melbourne, where they were encouraged to be active outdoors instead of watching TV. It’s not surprising they were all keen surfers but Liam took it most seriously, competing until he was 18, and he still surfs as much as he can today. “Surfing’s my favourite thing to do in the world,” he says.

He loves children Hemsworth is uncle to seven nieces and nephews – eldest brother Luke has a son and three daughters and Chris has twin sons and a daughter – and when they all get together Uncle Liam admits it gets very loud. But even beyond his close relationship with his brothers’ kids his own family upbringing has inspired him to be an ambassador for the Australian Childhood Foundation (alongside brother Chris, who is patron, and fellow actors including Eric and Rebecca Bana). The foundation is a not-for profit organisation that provides services to help children and families affected by abuse.

“I have the best parents you can have. They have worked in child protection for 20 years and have only ever given me encouragement and support. The world is a scary enough place as it is for children. It is important that home should always be a safe place for them,” he says. … and he has hidden talents Off the film set Hemsworth says he does a lot of painting. “That’s how I spend a lot of my downtime, painting. I always loved art in high school; it’s like doing meditation or something.

You just let yourself go for a while and focus on the moment at hand, and you can stop worrying about everything in your life.”

Isn’t it Romantic is in cinemas from 14 February.

STYLE

Artist and textile designer Kindah Khalidy is known for her vivid and playful paintings that have adorned the walls of Facebook’s headquarters in California and decorated Vans sneakers for the seriously stylish.

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his summer her work appears as wearable art in a collaboration with Australian fashion designer Lisa Gorman, available from the Gorman boutique which is part of a multi-million dollar redevelopment of QueensPlaza in the heart of Brisbane’s CBD. As part of the centre’s makeover Gorman is joined by other prestige Australian designers including Aje, Alice McCall, Camilla, Sass & Bide, Scanlan Theodore, Viktoria & Woods and Zimmermann, while Dior will join the luxury roll call which already includes Louis Vuitton, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tiffany & Co, Burberry, Bulgari and more. Look out for a premium cocktail bar and balcony dining hot spot coming soon.

Colour Splash All fashion is Kindah Khalidy x gorman. Recommended Retail Prices approximate.

For more stockists see www.gormanshop.com.au 10 | BNE January/February 2019

Scape dress $259; Pop Stripe pleated backpack $69; Lucia sunglasses $169; Madagascan earrings $69; Anna mules $189

Photography by Jesse Chamberlin Marble

Celebration jumpsuit $269; Madagascan earrings $69; Light Show ‘flatform’ sandals $199

Light Show top $229; Party Popper skort $109; Museum Date headband $39; Shapes socks $14; Column heels $229

End of the Rainbow jacket $99; Picnic pantsuit $249; Geo Flower earrings $69; Checkmate sandals $169

Holiday mini $169; Rib top $129; Wiggle hoop earrings $49; Holiday socks $16; Column heels $229

Shapes strappy sundress $229; Twist and Shake earrings $59; Pop Stripe socks $16

BNE January/February 2019 | 11

ESCAPE

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6. Bypass the high rise of Surfers Paradise for a vintage-style break at La Costa Motel, 50 metres from the beach at Bilinga. Vintage bicycles are available for guests to take a ride along the boardwalk and the local surf club is 10 minutes walk away for lunch or dinner. See www.lacostamotel.com.au 7. Paper Daisy is an award-winning restaurant worth driving over the border for but why rush back when you can stay overnight at Halcyon House and enjoy some quality leisure at Cabarita Beach the next day, including a Nourishing Body Boost at the Halcyon Spa. See www.halcyonhouse.com.au

QUICK

8. Ride the Spirit of Queensland from Brisbane to Cairns – a 24-hour rail journey that includes in-seat entertainment, on board showers and a club car to while away the hours. See www.queenslandrailtravel.com.au

G E TAWAY S

at Urliup about 20 minutes from town. See www.misterespaandretreat.com 13. Watch a Birds of Prey show, visit a glow worm grotto, zipline through the tree canopy, or join a storyteller’s tour during a stay at O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat in the Lamington National Park and picnic at the Canungra Valley Vineyards down the road, about two hours drive south from Brisbane. See www.oreillys.com.au 14. Norfolk Island is less than two and a half hours flying time from Brisbane and with Air New Zealand flights departing every Saturday and Tuesday it’s an easy four day break. Plan an itinerary at www.norfolkisland.com.au 15. The Whitsundays are less than two hours flying time away, from Brisbane to Hamilton Island with Qantas and Virgin Australia. Enjoy a reef trip, golf, spa treatments, wildlife encounters and more. See www.hamiltonisland.com.au

A year’s worth of short breaks to refresh body and soul

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2 1. Go off-road on the Sirromet Winery property for a Wild Food and Wine Safari and stay overnight in a luxury Sanctuary cabin on site at Mt Cotton about 40 minutes drive from Brisbane. See www.sirromet.com 2. The Calile Hotel, in the heart of fashionable James Street is an oasis in the hubbub of Fortitude Valley, with a super cool lobby bar and pool terrace restaurant. Stay here for shopping, dining and bar-hopping.

See www.thecalilehotel.com 3. Snorkel amid the wrecks, take a dip in the champagne pools, ride a beach bike or paddle a glass bottom kayak at Tangalooma on Moreton Island, 90 minutes from Brisbane by ferry. See www.tangalooma.com 4. Take a road trip somewhere new – like Chinchilla, four hours west of Brisbane, and have a laugh at the annual Melon Festival (1417 February this year).

5. Explore the Lockyer Valley from Branell Homestead, in Laidley, about one hour west of Brisbane city. Stay in the homestead suites and enjoy local markets (on every Friday) in Laidley.

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9. Tai Chi has long been a staple early morning ritual during a wellness retreat at Gwinganna in the Gold Coast hinterland but a new dedicated yoga retreat beckons 28-31 March. See www.gwinganna.com 10. Enjoy some Southern Country Queensland hospitality in Warwick and surrounds about two hours drive from Brisbane. Stay in a former convent (Abbey of the Roses), ride a bike around town, eat out at Bluebird Kitchen, drive to historic Glengallan Homestead and see P. L. Travers’ (author of Mary Poppins) childhood home at Allora as you explore the region. See www.southernqueenslandcountry.com.au 11. Spend a few days at Taste Tamworth 5-14 April, 75 minutes flight time from Brisbane with Fly Corporate.

12. Visit the Margaret Olley Art Centre at the Tweed Regional Gallery during a stay at Murwillumbah. Time the getaway for 17-26 May to be part of the annual Murwillumbah Art Trail festivities of pop-up galleries, street events, art, performance and film shows.

Retreat to the cosy Mistere villas overnight

16. You can get to the Great Barrier Reef (and back) in just one day on a scenic flight from Brisbane to Lady Elliot Island, departing from Redcliffe. See www.ladyelliot.com.au 17. Fossick for gems at Inverell in NSW, aka Sapphire City, 65 minutes flying time from Brisbane with Fly Corporate. Find out what else to do there at www.visitnsw.com 18. Fly to Wollongong in about two hours with Fly Corporate and take a Harley Davidson tour along the Spectacular Grand Pacific Drive high above the coastline. Find more things to do at www.visitwollongong.com.au 19. Join an artisan workshop (blacksmithing, leather plaiting, furniture making), stroll through one (or more) of 150 parks or take in a show at the heritage Empire Theatre in Toowoomba 90 minutes drive west of Brisbane. Find more things to do at www.southernqueenslandcountry.com.au 20. Fly to Roma west of Brisbane in just over an hour and stay overnight to join an all-day tour in the Carnarvon Ranges with Boobook tours. See www.boobookecotours.com.au

21. Browse Melbourne’s laneways for great bars, dining, shopping and art. Fly there in two hours 20 minutes from Brisbane. For a guide to laneways see www.visitvictoria.com

north of Noosa. Paddle the Everglades in a kayak or on a board. Eat at The Apollonian Hotel. See www.visitnoosa.com.au

22. Adelaide Festival and Womadelaide in March are good times to explore the city’s bar and dining hot spots. Fly there in about two hours 30 minutes from Brisbane.

32. Rug up for a short stay at Queensland’s coldest place, Stanthorpe, a centre for wineries, craft brewers, fruit growers and home to Christmas in July festivities. See www.southernqueenslandcountry.com.au

23. Sail away on a P&O short break cruise for three nights from Brisbane and back, enjoying a program of Food and Wine activities, country music and more. For the full program of short break cruises see www.pocruises.com.au

33. Splurge at The Darling at Broadbeach on the Gold Coast. Suites start from $1231 per room per night with breakfast but it’s all glam, and watch the sun go down over drinks at Nineteen. See www.star.com.au

24. Include a camel safari on Lighthouse Beach in a visit to Port Macquarie. Flight time is just over an hour from Brisbane with Virgin Australia. See www.portmacquarieinfo.com.au 25. Snorkel at Green Island and view Cairns from above on the Kuranda Skyrail. Flight time is just over two hours from Brisbane. See www.visitcairns.com.au 26. Visit a brewery, take a bushwalk, do a cooking class, shop for cheeses, stay in The Castle at Mt Tamborine in the hinterland just over an hour’s drive from Brisbane.

34. Park yourself at Narrows Escape Rainforest Retreat, at the start of the Sunshine Coast Hinterland Great Walk, at Montville to explore walks, villages, lakes and waterfalls. See www.narrowsescape.com.au 35. Check out the Best New Hotel in the World, Auckland’s Hotel Grand Windsor at 58 Queen Street, as a base for sightseeing in the city. See www.hotelgrandwindsor.com

on the river and three solid blocks of dining options. See www.emporiumhotels.com.au 45. Create your own cook’s tour to the best cooking classes on the Sunshine Coast, starting with Amytis Gardens at Kiels Mountain, then Spirit House at Yandina, Life’s a Feast at Noosaville and The Cooking School in Noosa.

46. Sharpen your photography skills on a North Stradbroke Island Retreat with travel photojournalist Danielle Lancaster 27-30 April. See www.blue-dog.com.au 47. Be a tourist in your own city. Book into a city hotel and take a Brisbane Greeters tour by day and an adventure segway tour at night.

Take a foodie tour the next day and explore a new precinct – like King Street at the Brisbane Showgrounds.

48. Catch the Vivid Festival in Sydney in May, check out the dining options at Barangaroo and book a show that’s not coming to Brisbane. Fly there in 90 minutes from Brisbane.

36. Hervey Bay is not only a prime whale watching spot on Queensland’s Fraser Coast it’s also a world-class marlin fishing ground so hop aboard the Kekoa for a fishing tour, and stay nearby at Mantra Hervey Bay. See www.kekoa.com.au 37. Follow in the footsteps of the Duke and Duchess of Sussex on Fraser Island, then sign up for the Bush Tucker Talk and Taste experience at Kingfisher Bay Resort. See www.kingfisherbay.com 38. Be part of the farm to fork process at Kay and Dave Tommerup’s Dairy Farm at Kerry, 75 minutes from Brisbane in the Scenic Rim. See www.tommerupsfarmstay.com.au 39. Visit Canberra, for galleries, museums and truffle hunting, less than two hours flight time from Brisbane with Qantas and Virgin Australia.

40. Skipper your own houseboat on the Noosa River and surrounding lakes. See www.luxuryafloatnoosa.com.au

23 27. Walk the three-day Spicers Peak Scenic Rim Trail staying overnight at Spicers Canopy ‘glamping tents’. See www.spicersretreats.com 28. The newly renovated Brisbane Marriott in the city is five minutes walk to the new Howard Smith Wharves dining precinct and the ferry to Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. See www.marriott.com.au/Brisbane 29. The French style of New Caledonia is just over two hours flying time from Brisbane with Aircalin. See www.newcaledonia.travel/en/ 30. Jetstar flies direct between Brisbane and Uluru for easy escapes to explore ‘the Rock’, dine under the stars and view the Field of Light. See www.ayersrockresort.com.au 31. Go off the grid and camp at Boreen Point campground on the shore of Lake Cootharaba,

41. Fly to Newcastle, 90 minutes flight time from Brisbane with Virgin Australia, and check out the local craft brews – beer and coffee – walk the Bathers Way and swim in the Bogey Hole. See www.visitnewcastle.com.au 42. Take the 50-minute ferry ride to Minjerribah (North Stradbroke Island) for swimming, fishing, ‘glamping’, walking the Gorge track and watching for whales (June to October), the Quandamooka Festival (June to August) and Island Vibe Festival (end October 2019). See www.minjerribahcamping.com.au 43. Get up close to kangaroos and wallabies on the beach at Cape Hillsborough, near Mackay, 95 minutes flight time from Brisbane with Jetstar, Qantas and Virgin Australia. See www.mackayregion.com 44. Book into the new Emporium Hotel at South Bank, walking distance to the Cultural Precinct for shows, exhibitions, twilight walks

36 49. Go on safari to Taronga Western Plains Zoo, Dubbo, and sleep in a Zoofari lodge or at the Billabong Camp with the animals just outside.

Fly there in about two hours with Fly Corporate.

See www.taronga.org.au/dubbo-zoo 50. Discover the Southern Moreton Bay Islands. Book a B&B, catch the ferry from Cleveland, visit the local artists on Macleay Island, go for sail, and hop on the interisland ferry.

51. Go totally Robinson Crusoe and camp on uninhabited Peel Island, or ‘Teerk Roo Ra’, in southern Moreton Bay. Access is only by boat and campers need to be completely self-sufficient. Permits required. See www.parks.des.qld.gov.au 52. Find enlightenment at the annual Woodford Folk Festival, one hour north of Brisbane, where the speakers and ideas program is as long as the music playlist. Camp onsite or stay nearby and trip in each day. See www.woodfordfolkfestival.com BNE January/February 2019 | 13

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NEED TO KNOW GO … between May and early November before the wet season.

ENTRY … no visa required for stays less than 60 days.

SPEND … the Samoan currency is the tala; 1 WST= 53c AUD approximately.

Carry cash outside Apia as ATMs are scarce.

DRIVE … note where the fill-up stations are, there aren’t many. Speed limit is 40kmh in Apia, 56kmh outside the city.

DON’T MISS … most resorts host a cultural Fiafia night of song, dance and special food every week.

PACK … snorkelling gear. Resorts usually provide it but if you want to be ready to go, anywhere and anytime – the opportunities are there – then have your own.

Samoa Still largely unspoilt and uncrowded Samoa is a hidden gem in the Pacific.

Here are four reasons visitors are smiling, writes Heather McWhinnie

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S

amoans say they are the happiest people on Earth and after a week there I’m not going to argue. Immediately we landed we were welcomed by a group of musicians serenading visitors in the airport arrivals hall – at 7am. Yes, the night flight from Brisbane arrives just in time for breakfast and time to plan a day of discovery. That begins with a tour of Apia, the capital of Samoa on the island of Upolu, and a visit to the Cultural Village for an introduction to Fa’a Samoa – ‘the Samoan way’. Here are different ways to experience it …

CULTURE Music and dance are integral to the Samoan way. Another welcome committee was waiting at Taumeasina Resort with a musical serenade.

This time it was performed by resort staff and followed with a cool drink and presentation of a floral ‘lei’.

Taumeasina runs daily shuttles to the city centre where a cultural tour can begin. Music is playing once again at the Cultural Village where Chris Solomona has been guiding visitors in the Samoan way for years. The tour is free and takes place daily, but any fears of commercialisation you may have can be quickly dispelled - the participants don’t get paid, but a donation is appreciated to help maintain the facilities and cover the costs of food and materials – for each visitor gets to make a plate from a palm frond, eat food cooked in an umu (hot stone covered pit oven) and watch while the inner bark from a tree is transformed into a soft fabric.

Images: David Kirkland/Samoa Tourism Authority except resort images

the happy place

There’s a more intimate demonstration of the Samoan art of traditional Ta Tau, or tattooing, observed under strict protocols as this is a painstaking skill, and you can take that literally, with powerful meaning. The traditional Samoan tattoo – from the waist to the knee – is a painful badge of honour that takes weeks, sometimes months, to complete at sessions of hours and days at a time, performed with a single tool (not an electric needle) and without any anaesthetic. While it is a great honour for men of a village to be tattooed in this way, there is also great shame if they fail to complete the whole process so it is not always encouraged in a village. There is also great responsibility then for the man to serve his village.

Family values remain strong in Samoa with generations of family members living as neighbours for life in the villages they were born. Sunday continues to be a day of rest, men rise early to cook the umu meal which the whole village shares and everyone goes to church – visitors welcome.

NATURE

White sand beaches ring the island of Upolu

Local mythology and legend says Samoans descended from the gods and heavens to inhabit the islands and their natural beauty is, indeed, heavenly. Surrounded by a fringing reef the main islands are ringed by a necklace of pearl-white beaches, rich with inland forests and waterfalls, freshwater pools, taro and coconut plantations, and there are no deadly creatures to fear.

An introduction to the diversity of Samoa’s landscape starts only a few kilometres up the hill from Apia in VAILIMA and the Botanic Gardens that surround the former home (now a museum) of author Robert Louis Stevenson. Within the reserve there’s a waterfall and freshwater pool where you can take a dip just as Stevenson did in the 1890s.

The hike up MT VAEA, to the peak where Stevenson is buried, is quite a different track to the manicured lawns and flowering plants of the gardens. The ‘easy’ way is at least an hour’s walk up a narrow bush track, fondly called the Road of Loving Hearts, that you don’t want to be doing past 9am in 30-degree heat. The ‘quick’ but harder way is steps all the way (estimated to take 30 minutes), arriving at the same vantage point and a panoramic view of Apia. I took the steps down.

Upolu island is only 75km long and 26km wide so it doesn’t take long to drive around the whole island even on the meandering coast road but it is worth cutting through the middle on the Cross Island Road if only to witness the marked change in temperature, terrain and drizzling rainfall during the traverse. It’s a welcome change from the tropical heat that is common all year round on the rest of the island.

From our south-side base at Seabreeze Resort near the village of Aufaga (and otherwise known as Paradise Cove) it’s not far to view the SOPOAGA WATERFALL from a lookout across the gorge or walk the bush trail to the TOGITOGIGA WATERFALL that cascades through several levels into swimming holes (there’s a bit of a leap of faith involved to get in the water). This is also a short walk to the entrance of O LE PUPU-PUE NATIONAL PARK where there are several hiking trails,

Basket weaving at Seabreeze Resort

including the three-hour (return) rainforest walk to the PEAPEA CAVES, a lava tube cave formed thousands of years ago and home to a small bird called a peapea or white-rumped swiftlet.

ADVENTURE Also likely to get the adrenalin pumping is a dip in the PIULA CAVE POOL, about 45 minutes from Apia on the north coast road. It’s on land inside the grounds of the Piula Theological College in the village of Lufilufi and entry fees apply but it’s a surreal experience.

The freshwater spring flows from an old lava tube but so far professional divers have not been able to find its source. For swimmers it’s an eery feeling to explore a little way into the dark, and the creeps start to kick in as the rock walls get closer and the cave ceiling lower as the stream twists and turns underground. There’s supposed to be a second cave beyond but who’s game to keep going in the dark? Not me. It’s probably only seconds before I’m paddling back into the light and content instead to look for fish swimming in the sunny pool.

TO SUA TRENCH is another swimming challenge. It’s not hard, but there are ropes across the trench now to stop people getting sucked out in strong currents, and that’s after you climb down into the 30-metre hole by a wooden stepladder. Above ground there are pretty gardens for picnics and barbecues, and a clifftop walk to see the cave from the ocean side.

Snorkelling is possible almost anywhere, sheltered in the lagoon and close to island outcrops. Just five minutes from Apia’s town centre PALOLO DEEP MARINE RESERVE is a protected pool to view coral and all sorts of fish species (BYO snorkel gear and beach towel) in a natural aquarium, about 100 metres offshore. There’s a minimal entry fee and a visit is best timed at high tide.

Robert Louis Stevenson’s former home at Vailima

Children on a bus in Apia BNE January/February 2019 | 15

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WHERE TO STAY

Above: the freshwater Piula Cave Pool. Below: food at Taumeasina Island Resort and Seabreeze Resort. Right: view from the pool at Seabreeze Resort on the south coast of Upolu

On the south side of the island Seabreeze Resort at Aufaga has its own natural mini aquarium between the beach and an island that stands only metres offshore – the ancient burial ground of a village chief. Although no one is allowed to set foot on the sacred ground it provides lots of idle viewing of small fish around the edges.

Just past the beach fales of Lalomanu, turtles swim in the deeper waters of the bay between the beach and NAMUA ISLAND and it’s quite a treat to hitch a ride on a villager’s tinnie and spot the turtles on the way.

There’s some snorkelling on the other side of the bay but the best times to see a turtle are the dawn and dusk feeding times. To do that you might want to stay on the island in a fale (you can book it), and the villagers will supply the food.

Kayaking, too, is a relaxing way to tour around the lagoons, from almost any location, just be mindful of the tides.

FOOD It’s hard not to eat healthy food in Samoa as it is plentiful, from fresh seafood caught daily to fruit and vegetables grown locally. Root vegetables such as taro and breadfruit are everywhere (stop by the Marketi Fou in Apia to see the wide range available and sample some things you may not have seen before) or grab a coconut juice (in the coconut shell) from the drive-through market ‘Ahliki’ on Taufusi Street; oka (raw fish marinated in lemon, onion and coconut cream) is on most menus in resorts and cafés; and palusami (taro leaves baked in coconut cream) is served as part of the umu menu in the Cultural Village. Crayfish, snapper, tuna, mahi mahi and octopus are fresh from the market and palolo is a special fish delicacy.

Pork and chicken are the prized meats served at an umu.

Samoan researchers have also found an innovative use for its prolific taro crops, whiskey, and a rum made from local sugar cane as well as a gin made from Polynesian plum are in the pipeline.

Seabreeze Resort Upolu, south coast Chris and Wendy Booth have done what many Australians dream of, created their own little piece of paradise on a tropical island. A builder in Brisbane for 30 years, Chris first went to Samoa – as many do – surfing with a mate, then with his son, then he took his partner Wendy and they started building Seabreeze Resort at Aufaga.

Now they run one of the world’s best resorts, according to the World Travel Awards where it was judged Samoa’s leading hotel for the sixth year in a row in 2018. Staff sing the welcome to guests (and farewell) at this adults-only resort of only 11 villas, one a selfcontained Honeymoon Villa on its own headland, and all boasting decks with double hammocks, some with daybeds, a pool bar, overwater restaurant, rental cars on site and bespoke tours.

Snorkel gear and glass bottom kayaks are available for the use of guests. Transfers are provided to and from Faleolo International Airport 50km (1.5hrs drive) away. Close to: To Sua Trench, Lalomanu Beach and Namua Island, Sopoaga and Togitogiga Waterfalls, Peapea Cave and the east side of Upolu. Don’t miss: Fiafia night on Friday.

See www.seabreezesamoa.com

Taumeasina Island Resort Upolu, north coast

Taumeasina Island Resort is the newest on Upolu, open only two years and built on its own private island just five minutes (2.5km) from Apia and 45 minutes from Faleolo International Airport. Rooms have ocean views and there are two and three bedroom villas, three restaurants, two pools, spa, tennis court, kayaks, catamarans and a tour desk. There’s an activity program posted daily that includes everything from learning Samoan dance and how to tie a lavalava (sarong) to bingo and aqua aerobics. Close to: Apia, Palolo Marine Reserve, Vailima and Piula Cave Pool. Don’t miss: Fiafia night on Saturday. See www.taumeasinaislandresortsamoa.com

MORE OPTIONS: There are places to suit all sorts. Corporate types might like Aggie Grey’s in the centre of Apia, with its meeting facilities, casino next door and walking distance to nightlife; on the other hand beach fales are made for adventurers – minimal facilities, but a comfy mattress and (maybe) a mosquito net for sleeping on the water’s edge with food supplied by the villagers or a laid-back café.

Samoa Airways flies direct between Brisbane and Apia twice weekly. See www.samoaairways.com 16 | BNE January/February 2019

Pacific Dreaming Brisbane provides a direct route to the best islands in the Pacific for holidays full of adventure, culture and natural beauty

Fiji Less than four hours flying time direct from Brisbane are more than 300 islands in the Fiji archipelago where there are so many things to do and see that one trip is not enough to experience all it has to offer, from jet boating and natural rock-chute waterslides to rainforest walks, river rafting, world class surfing and more.

One of the newest ways to explore local villages off the beaten track is on electric powered pushbike carriages that follow a rail line once used in the sugarcane industry. Guides on the Ecotrax Tours share their stories and there’s time to stop at remote beaches for a swim and cool refreshments on the way. Prefer to walk? Talanoa Treks offer one-day and multi-day guided hiking tours overland with overnight stays in local villages.

Fiji has been a popular location for film-makers and it’s easy to see why in the stunning scenery and beaches of the Coral Coast on the south western edge of the main island, Viti Levu. This is where you’ll find luxurious accommodation such as Nanuku Auberge Resort which occupies a private estate of more than 200 hectares on the beachfront at Pacific Harbour. Adventure is not far away but this is also foodies heaven with unique experiences including Treetop Dining over the water’s edge and an exceptional Fijian Food Safari.

With so many islands to explore it’s hard to stop at just one and Six Senses Fiji recently opened on Malolo Island, part of the Mamanuca Islands group, with a focus on wellness that includes a yoga pavilion, alchemy bar and superfoods menu. For more information see www.fiji.travel Fiji Airways and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Nadi daily.

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Hawai’i A little more than nine hours flying time from Brisbane Airport, Honolulu is the gateway to the Hawaiian Islands. Away from the sand and surf there’s an historically-rich and vibrant Indigenous host culture to discover and a thriving arts scene – bookmark the Honolulu Biennial in 2019 (8 March to 5 May) and the Honolulu Festival (8-10 March 2019).

Friday nights are key, too, for mingling with the locals when art galleries, boutique retailers and cool eateries extend their hours for postsunset strollers. Honolulu’s Chinatown and Kaimuki neighbourhoods welcome after-dark visitors to their monthly First Friday Downtown Art Walk and Third Fridays Kaimuki town exploration nights.

Save the date, too, for the Hanapepe Town Friday Art Night on Kaua’i, the main street Friday Town Parties in either Wailuku, Lahaina, Makawao or Kihei on Maui, or the Fifth Friday events around Dole Park in Lanai City (March, May, August and November in 2019), offering

a fun way to explore each town’s personality and culture.

On the Island of Hawai’i’s west side, Kona’s historic Kailua Village shuts down a portion of its bayside Alii Drive to accommodate the artist, merchant and food vendors taking part in the monthly (Sunday) Kokua Kailua Village Stroll and on the opposite side of the island almost any day is a great one to explore the eclectic restaurants, bars, cafés, bakeries, retailers, museums and more, situated in the century-old buildings of Hilo’s historic downtown district which is also home base for the popular Hilo Farmers Market.

Kailua-Kona is also on the doorstep of Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park where you can spot centuries-old ‘loko ia’ (Hawaiian fishponds), protected wetlands, native birdlife and beach-snoozing Hawaiian green sea turtles on the coastal trail. Participate in crafts and skills practised by early Hawaiians and gain a richer understanding of the culture at Pu’ukoholā O Hōnaunau National Historical

Park at Hōnaunau and Pu’ukoholā Heiau National Historic Site at Kawaihae. At all three, explore segments of the Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail, an island-circling foot trail used by early Hawaiians to travel between coastal settlements.

Along the way look out for and taste traditional food favourites including ‘kālua’ and ‘laulau’ (pork), ‘poke’ (diced raw fish), a ‘luau’ feast and dishes made from ‘kalo’ (taro), ‘uala’ (sweet potato) and ‘ulu’ (breadfruit).

You’ll also find Portuguese, Chinese, Filipino, Japanese, Korean and Puerto Rican food, introduced by field labourers during Hawai’i’s sugar and pineapple plantation era. Save the date for the Hawaiian Food and Wine Festival 5-27 October 2019 which takes place across several islands and features a roster of more than 150 chefs and producers.

Hawaiian Airlines flies direct between Brisbane and Honolulu three times weekly.

Just two hours and 20 minutes flying time from Brisbane, New Caledonia is the closest South Pacific destination to Brisbane and an eco hotspot, home to the largest marine park on Earth. Larger than Alaska, twice the size of Texas, three times the size of Germany, the Natural Park of the Coral Sea protects more than one million square kilometres of marine ecosystem that is a sanctuary for 25 species of marine mammals, 48 shark species, 19 species of nesting birds and five species of sea turtles.

New Caledonia is also the cosmopolitan hub of the South Pacific with its French influence on food, boutique shopping on Rue de Sébastopol, Rue de l’Alma and La Promenade and nightlife around Anse Vata Bay and Baie de Citrons. There’s a Latin Quarter, Chinatown and morning markets selling everything from fresh croissants and coffee to papaya and passionfruit. For more information see www.newcaledonia.travel Aircalin and Qantas fly direct between Brisbane and Noumea several times a week.

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Images: Fiji Tourism; Hawaii Tourism; New Caledonia Tourism; Tourism Solomons and Vanuatu Tourism

New Caledonia

Vanuatu Two hours 30 minutes flying time direct from Brisbane, Vanuatu is one of Australia’s closest island neighbours and a nation of contrasts. You can browse colourful markets or visit the casino in Port Vila, sip French Champagne or drink down a bottle of the local Tusker beer (available from the local supermarket), fly by private helicopter to your own private island or get back to nature exploring wild forests and remote waterfalls.

The volcanic geography means the islands are lush with tropical rainforests, mountain ranges, streams and waterfalls. Guided treks traverse plantations, dense rainforest, fresh water rivers and local villages to hidden caves, waterfalls and beaches. Boat cruises (on board the Coongoola sailing ship), horse-riding tours and guided day tours are great ways to explore the natural beauty of Vanuatu. For more information see www.tourismvanuatu.com Air Vanuatu and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Port Vila several times a week.

Solomon Islands Less than three hours flying time direct from Brisbane, the Solomon Islands is a scattered archipelago of nearly 1000 richly forested, mountainous islands and low-lying coral atolls that has attracted international visitors since 1568 when Spanish explorer Alvaro de Mendana sailed into its pristine waters.

Mendana’s legacy can be found in the islands today which still bear the Spanish names he gave them – Santa Isabel, San Cristóbal and, perhaps the most recognised of all, Guadalcanal which takes its name from a small township in Andalucia in southern Spain.

They remained mostly undisturbed until the British arrived about 300 years later, then the Pacific became engulfed in World War II. The battle of Guadalcanal is one of the most famous of the war and today World War II buffs will find hidden relics in village museums created and curated by locals.

Since the island nation gained its independence in the 1970s it has once again become a destination for travellers wanting to detour from the beaten track – surfers, divers, birdwatchers, sports fishermen, yachties and culture-lovers.

While there are hotels in Honiara, you haven’t really seen the Solomons until you’ve taken a motorised canoe ride to any of the surrounding islands for a more authentic experience, from lagoon-based watersports and spectacular diving from the island resorts in the Western Provinces (Sanbis and Fatboys near Gizo are two of the best) to the more remote Rendova Island and Titiru Eco Lodge near Munda. For more information see www.visitsolomons.com.sb Solomon Airlines and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Honiara times several times weekly.

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chateaux

CANADA’S STATELY

They are the grand dames in the Fairmont Hotels and Resorts collection and make every guest feel like royalty, as Leonie Vandeven discovers CASTLE IN THE CITY IN VANCOUVER Eat: Black gold. Shades of green. Impression of Monet’s water lilies. Elk in the woods. These are not new shades of paint, they are stories on a plate served at Fairmont Hotel Vancouver’s Notch8 Restaurant. Truly imaginative and utterly delicious seasonal food dictated by nature and served as individual works of art are a lasting memory of Fairmont’s ‘Castle in the City’.

Outside: Holding a prime downtown location, Fairmont Hotel Vancouver is minutes away from some of the city’s biggest attractions including Granville Island, Robson Street shopping, Stanley Park Seawall, Vancouver Aquarium, Gastown, Canada Place and Science World. Shoppers are spoilt for choice with highend brands Tiffany and Louis Vuitton nearby.

Inside: Last year Fairmont Hotel Vancouver unveiled the results of a four-year, $55 million restoration inspired by the hotel’s rich history, including the Heritage Suites on the 14th floor which show a luxe attention to detail to incorporate heirlooms of its storied past with modern amenities and commemorate the Royal visit by King George VI and Queen Elizabeth who were guests at the grand opening in 1939.

Legend: Some guests love this hotel so much they have never left. Legend has it that the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver is ‘enchanted’ by a friendly ghost, the glamorous Lady in Red.

MUST DO • Pinch the bathroom soaps and lotions. It’s impossible not to when it’s the luxury Le Labo Rose 31 products with your name personally printed on the label.

• Order the sublime coconut chia pudding with organic yoghurt and seasonal berries for breakfast.

• Relax with a signature cocktail at Notch8 while enjoying live jazz entertainment. Requests welcome.

Images, this page: Fairmont Hotel Vancouver; food at Notch8; a Heritage Suite on the 14th floor. Opposite page: Fairmont Chateau Whistler in winter, the pool terrace in summer, Alta Lake and dining at Wildflower Terrace 20 | BNE January/February 2019

ALPINE WONDERLAND IN WHISTLER Outside: Nestled against the backdrop of Whistler’s iconic Blackcomb Mountain in Upper Village, Fairmont Chateau Whistler appears like a castle in a fairy tale hugged by gardens of colourful tulips, daffodils and spruce and cloaked by snow-topped peaks.

Inside: The hotel itself, being five-star, is exemplary, with spacious rooms, dreamy beds with puffy white doonas, premium toiletries, WiFi and views to die for. In Winter it is a ski-in ski-out resort where a valet collects your gear at the door and stores it while you enjoy a tipple at the bar or warm yourself by the fire.

Natural high: In Spring and Summer activities extend to golf, bush walking the lush countryside, bear-watching, ziplining over spruce forest canyons and mountain biking some of the world’s best trails.

Indulge: After all that activity the delicious Scandinave Spa is the perfect wind-down.

Eat: The Wildflower Restaurant offers a delectable seasonal menu with a focus on regional produce and serves honey harvested from its own rooftop hives as part of the Alpine Breakfast Buffet spread. At dinner, the Tomato Gin Soup is highly recommended; not only is it constructed and flambéed at your table, the flavours captured in a simple bowl of anything but humble tomato soup warm the cockles of your heart. More cafés, bars and shopping options are a short stroll away.

MUST DO • Join the free Fairmont Gold Club for exclusive extras during your stay. Its benefits cover all Fairmont properties.

• Take Fairmont Canine Ambassador ‘Alta’ for a walk.

• Go bear spotting (from a distance) around the 9th hole of the Whistler golf course, though we weren’t lucky enough to spot one during our stay.

• Catch the regular free shuttle bus to the other village precincts.

• Enjoy a botanical gin and tonic cocktail spiced with charred rosemary and sage at Bar Oso in Whistler Village.

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Outside: Commanding breathtaking views of Victoria’s bustling inner harbour (which doubles as an international airport for an endless stream of seaplanes) The Empress, built in 1908, is a National Historic Site in Canada and one of the most stunning properties in the Fairmont family.

MUST DO

Inside: Following a recent $60 million renovation, The Empress is at her regal best, retaining the grandeur that has attracted kings and queens, Hollywood starlets and political heavyweights in its time, but offering modern luxury down to the finest detail. The spacious rooms have upgraded bathrooms, flat screen TVs, charging ports, WiFi, luxury toiletries and comfy king-sized beds spread with crisp linen.

• Order The Empress 1908 Gin which transforms in colour from indigo to a soft pink with a splash of citrus.

• Visit the resident marmot ‘Roger’ who shares his little slice of paradise in The Empress gardens with the hotel’s bee hives.

• Munch through bowls of the famous charcoalspiced popcorn at the Q Bar. One bowl is not enough. Trust me.

• Indulge in the lush Willow Stream Spa facilities for a treatment or enjoy the Finnish style sauna, steam inhalation room and mineral pool.

Highlight: High Tea in the Lobby Lounge is an art form, available to visitors as well as in-house guests. The tea selection is exquisitely presented in a timber box with compartments showcasing 21 ethically-sourced tea combinations. Tea is served in bone China that was designed for use by Queen Elizabeth in 1939 accompanied by house-made treats such as shortbread, raisin scones with clotted cream and strawberry lavender jam, and caramel banana cake (rumoured to be Prince Harry’s favourite). It is said Sir Winston Churchill himself bypassed Prohibition Laws by requesting his gin be served in a teapot at The Empress.

Eat: Q at the Empress is the main restaurant, serving delightfully inventive cuisine showcasing local delicacies that may only be in season for a few weeks a year. Don’t be shy in asking the wait staff to explain items on the menu or you might miss out on tasting things as wonderful as fiddleheads (greens), geoduck (very large clam), halibut and steelhead (fish).

Fairmont Empress in Victoria, British Columbia; Queens’ portraits behind the Q Bar; the tea selection; high tea in the lobby lounge and the grand lobby entrance with chandelier

GETTING THERE Air Canada flies direct between Brisbane and Vancouver daily.

See www.aircanada.com 22 | BNE January/February 2019

Find special package deals at Fairmont Hotels and Resorts at www.travelassociates.com

The writer was a guest of Fairmont Hotels and Resorts, Travel Associates and Air Canada

REGAL IN VICTORIA

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Like a

MARTIAN

The red sands of Wadi Rum in Jordan were an ideal stand-in for an inhospitable Mars in the film The Martian but visitors wanting to spend a few nights in the surreal desert landscape will have a very different spaceage experience, complete with WiFi if required, in the Martian Domes now open in what the local Bedouins call the ‘Valley of the Moon’.

It was the film that inspired the Sun City Camp owner to create the domes (pictured above) which come equipped with all mod cons – including private bathroom and shower, hot water, air conditioning, guest toiletries, mini bar (no alcohol), 24-hour check-in, and fresh cooked local food in the dining tent. But best of all they are situated on the age-old trading route between Amman and Aqaba in a protected wilderness that offers stunning views in every direction of towering sand dunes, naturally carved rock formations and a starlit night sky.

Exploration can be made on foot, by camel, 4WD or hot air balloon or, like astronaut Mark Watney in The Martian, you may just want to take a moment to sit quietly on a sand dune and bask in the serenity of it all and appreciate the vast beauty that has been home to the semi-nomadic Bedouins for thousands of years. Accommodation in the Martian Domes is about $320 per night and deluxe glamping tent accommodation is also available for about $170 per night including breakfast and dinner (but prices are subject to change). For more information and bookings see www.suncitycamp.com Etihad Airways flies direct between Brisbane and Abu Dhabi and Emirates flies direct between Brisbane and Dubai for onward connections to Amman, Jordan

Wonderland IS NEXT LEVEL It’s been described as the world’s first underground hotel and the construction team behind the new InterContinental Shanghai Wonderland (pictured below) certainly has turned luxury hotel design upside down – building 18 storeys down into an abandoned quarry instead of going up, up and up like so many of the towering skyscrapers in Shanghai’s buzzing city centre.

Situated in the Sheshan Mountain Range, a little more than an hour’s drive west of Shanghai’s Pudong International Airport, the new hotel clings to the cliff face 88 metres down the wall of the quarry, with two floors extending above ground and 16 below, which includes two floors underwater.

All rooms have spectacular views of waterfalls and the surrounding cliffs but the bedrooms in the two-level underwater loft are definitely next level – encased within a turquoise aquarium where guests can view schools of fish swimming by. Facilities are luxe to the max and a room price to match, with an opening offer starting at around $775 per night (including breakfast). For information and bookings see www.ihg.com

China Eastern Airlines flies up to seven times weekly direct between Brisbane and Shanghai

Fantastico!

Hugging a cliff face of its own is Brisbane’s newest boutique hotel, The Fantauzzo, which sits snugly under the iconic Story Bridge and right alongside the coolest new food and drink venues that have been opening in rapid succession over the last month on the newly restored Howard Smith Wharves (see more on page 30). It’s a dream location, just a few minutes walk from the city and Fortitude Valley with views looking down two reaches of Brisbane River.

The Fantauzzo takes its name from award-winning artist Vincent Fantauzzo (and husband of actor Asher Keddie) whose works will be featured throughout the hotel and, while bookings are already being taken, it will not officially open its doors until March. Room rates start from $309 per night. See www.artserieshotels.com.au.

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ESCAPE

GREAT TRAIN ADVENTURE This year The Ghan celebrates 90 years of Outback adventure, and Chris Viney discovers why it is known as one of the world’s great rail journeys

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here’s an enthusiastic female trainspotter in Darwin who has seen the trans-continental train called The Ghan arrive and depart dozens of times since it first rolled into Darwin in February 2004.

She’s at the station with her camera twice a week – she knows all the crews and she has more than 500 photographs of the engines and carriages of this wonderful train.

One of these days, she plans to climb aboard and make the trip south – until then, she’s happy to simply record the comings and goings of what has become one of the world’s great railway journeys.

Named in memory of the Afghan camel drivers who helped to pioneer the harsh and beautiful Red Centre of Australia, the train runs between Darwin and Adelaide for three days and 2979 kilometres – tropical mangroves and crocodiles at one end, stately gardens and church spires at the other.

In between the two extremes is the lush tropical vegetation lining the steep banks of the mighty Katherine Gorge, the broad streets of Alice Springs, the endless red sands of the desert (not barren and empty, but teeming with life) and the white ghost gums and purple MacDonnell Ranges that seem to leap from an Albert Namatjira canvas.

NEED TO KNOW • Departures: From Adelaide every Wednesday; from Darwin every Sunday • Distance: Adelaide to Darwin 2979km • Duration: 54 hours (four days and three nights) • Speed: Average 85km/h (max. 115km/h) • Stops: Katherine, Alice Springs, and Coober Pedy (Expedition only)

Enjoy the view Long-distance train travel is a wonderful way to see these changing landscapes. From the sofa in your cabin or in the friendly atmosphere of the Outback Explorer Lounge, the countryside slides past – the train moves along at a good clip (average speed 85km/h), but it feels pleasantly relaxed, unlike long-distance driving, which demands constant concentration and forces you to remain seated in the same position for hour after hour.

Not on The Ghan – it’s one of the great pleasures of the trip to stroll along to the lounge for a morning coffee, afternoon tea, a sundowner or a nightcap. The Outback Explorer is the social hub of the train. This is the place to meet fellow travellers, enjoy a chat, share stories, relax with a good book or just gaze out at the moving world, keeping an eye out for elusive wildlife – emus, kangaroos, camels.

Text: Published under license from www.welltravelled.media

Taste the best Three meals a day are served aboard The Ghan and dining is a delight when the view from your table is ever-changing. Silver sparkles on white linen in the classically-styled Queen Adelaide Restaurant, where the menu features regional specialties as varied as the country along the train’s continent-wide route. There’s barramundi from Northern Territory waters and saltbush-flavoured lamb from South Australia; beef from Outback cattle stations, wines from Barossa Valley vineyards and even wild foods of the desert itself, like the tender kangaroo fillet with bush peach sauce.

Crossing a big country at the easy pace of a long-distance train means there’s plenty of time to appreciate the vastness of the continent. All day long, the desert slips by your window. While you sleep (after transforming the settee in your cabin into comfortable sleeping berths) the train rolls on through the darkness. Next morning, there it is again – sand and spinifex, an ocean of red stretching to a ruler-straight horizon under a piercingly blue Outback sky.

Images, opposite page: The Ghan en route. This page: inside a Premium Service Cabin and the Premium Club Lounge.

Below: a cruise along the Nitmiluk Gorge, Katherine

Detour off the rails Initially The Ghan’s route from Adelaide stopped at Alice Springs. The final challenging link northward to Darwin (following the line of the Overland Telegraph, a single wire that first connected Adelaide via Darwin with Great Britain in 1872) was opened in 2004, completing the coast to coast route that cuts across the middle of the continent.

There are two brief stops on the journey; at Katherine, 330 kilometres south of Darwin and at Alice Springs, close to the halfway point of the line. Many Ghan travellers take the opportunity to spend a few days at ‘A Town Called Alice’, venturing out to experience Red Centre icons of Uluru, Palm Valley and Kings Canyon, before re-joining the train to continue northward or southward.

At each stop, there’s a variety of excellent Whistle Stop Tour options to choose. In Katherine, these include a town shuttle tour, a boat cruise through the magnificent Katherine Gorge, a canoe trip on the Katherine River; a short bushwalk in tropical bushland, with great views down to the river and its line of towering cliffs; or the highly-recommended helicopter flight, which is undoubtedly the most thrilling and spectacular way to get a feeling for the landscapes.

In Alice Springs, you can explore the town on a guided tour; follow the tracks of the Afghan pioneers on a camel ride; join a quad bike tour; take a helicopter flight to Simpsons Gap; or visit the award-winning Alice Springs Desert Park, where a range of habitats are re-created to show how hundreds of species of animals and plants survive in the desert. The sensational free-flying bird display is simply amazing to watch as a blackbreasted buzzard uses a rock to smash an emu egg!

After the Whistle Stop experience, it’s all aboard for the next stage of the journey – meeting new friends over a pre-dinner drink, enjoying delicious meals and fine wines, retiring to your cabin with the gentle and soothing motion of the train to lull you to sleep – why would you travel any other way?

Find out more about The Ghan packages at www.greatsouthernrail.com.au

Qantas and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Adelaide or Darwin BNE January/February 2019 | 25

I

QUEENSLAND

ASHLEIGH

BARTY TENNIS PLAYER

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Brisbane’s Ashleigh Barty is Australia’s highest ranked female player on the WTA Tour and she’s just hitting her stride, rounding out last season with the best Grand Slam results of her career and her second Newcombe Medal in a row.

Both come just two years back on the court after she took a break to play cricket in the inaugural Women’s Big Bash League for 18 months.

Since she returned to the WTA Tour Barty has skyrocketed from a singles ranking of 200 up to 15 and won her first Grand Slam

Doubles Title at the US Open last year from a previous ranking of 40.

Tennis commentators, as well as her competition, are taking notice. In a New York Times survey recently a group of more than 20 coaches, former players and analysts judged Barty to be one of the most dangerous players on the Tour and rivals have been studying her game before each match.

This is Barty’s time to shine and when she takes to the court in the Australian Open (January 14-27) all of Queensland will be behind her.

Where are you from?

I understand you like fishing. Where’s a favourite fishing spot?

What are your best memories of growing up in the area?

My favourite fishing spot is North Straddie. It brings back fishing memories with my uncles from when I was young.

Hanging out with my friends playing sport on the weekend.

School sport, tennis, chipping around the front yard and playing touch footy with my neighbours. My sisters and I had a very happy childhood growing up in Ipswich.

How did you start playing tennis?

What do you like most about your neighbourhood?

What do you do to hang out there?

A round of golf at Brookwater, a coffee at my local café, taking my dogs for a walk in the park.

Any good haunts you can share with us?

Merlo at Orion is my everyday coffee spot and my favourite local breakfast café is Journeys Kitchen. The food and coffee options in my area are getting better and better.

Is there anywhere in Brisbane you go for an ultimate girls day out with your mum and sisters?

My sister Sara and I just did a coffee-making course which I loved. Otherwise my sisters Ali and Sara, my mum Josie and my niece Lucy love a girls’ coffee date in one of our local cafés.

What’s the first thing you do when you get home after travelling on tour?

Get a good Australian coffee and take my dogs for a long walk.

What places or things to do would you recommend to visitors to the area?

Robelle Domain Central Parklands. An amazing spot to take the dogs for a walk, have a family picnic or barbecue, spend time at the mini water park or just have a game of touch footy on a Sunday afternoon.

Do you have a favourite holiday spot in Queensland?

North Stradbroke Island. My family and I have holidayed in North Straddie for years and I have many happy memories there.

Tourism and Events Queensland

I started playing when I was 4 years old and Dad took me to West Brisbane Tennis Club for lessons. Jim Joyce was my first coach and still has an influence on my tennis today.

Does any of the rest of your family play tennis?

How close my family and I live to each other! Spending time with my family is something I make the most of when I am home.

Photography by Julian Finney/Getty Images

It is one place I completely disconnect from the world and feel relaxed. And the ice cream shop is the best in the world.

I grew up in Springfield, Ipswich and still live in the area.

Wherever I am in the world, this part of Queensland is my home and I love coming back here. I can’t see myself living anywhere else.

My sister Ali and I played doubles together when we were little.

Our doubles career was very short lived though! My Dad was a great golfer too.

You’re the National Indigenous Tennis Ambassador for Tennis Australia, what does that involve and what has the program achieved so far?

I am very proud of my Indigenous heritage and have loved being Tennis Australia’s Indigenous Ambassador over the last year.

Our goal is to encourage Indigenous kids to get active and enjoy their tennis, something I am passionate about. I visited the Tiwi Islands last year and met some of our young players. I hope to do more to help the Indigenous community moving forward.

You had a great year on court in 2018 – what are you looking forward to most in 2019?

Starting off my season at home in front of Aussie fans and hopefully making Australia proud; and continuing to build on my 2018 results and striving for the WTA top 10.

How often are you travelling on the tour each year, and what’s your top travel tip?

I am on the Tour over 30 weeks of the year and in 2018 I got on over 60 flights … so it’s a lot of travel! My tip ... I always unpack my suitcase to make a hotel room feel more like home.

Any destinations on your travel bucket list?

North Queensland. I’d love to check out some of the fishing spots up there.

Off the court, Barty likes to play golf at Brookwater Golf Club; go fishing – North Stradboke Island is a favourite spot; enjoy a coffee at her local Merlo café; and, as a National Indigenous Tennis Ambassador for Tennis Australia, she recently visited the Tiwi Islands to encourage young children to get active.

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TASTE

A taste of

China

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Photography by Adam Liaw

hinese has topped the list as Australia’s favourite international food for years, according to Roy Morgan Research but our understanding of the cuisine barely scratches the surface, says celebrity chef Adam Liaw (pictured right).

“It’s without doubt one of the most fascinating food cultures on Earth,” he says. “Our experience is limited mainly to Cantonese-style food served in most Chinese restaurants in Australia but China has hundreds of different cuisines that go back thousands of years and have had more impact on the world than any other. They were curing ham thousands of years before the Italians, brought tea to the English and even gave Australia good old tomato sauce.”

Over the years Liaw has travelled widely in China and in his new TV series Destination Flavour China (SBS) he returns to share a personal journey tracing the culinary influences that inspired his passion for cooking from an early age. He begins in Beijing where his English-born mother made her home 30 years ago and travels through the provinces that gave birth to the eight great regional Chinese cuisines, including Sichuan, Shandong, Anhui, Jiansu and Zhejiang, ending his discovery tour at his father’s homeland, Hainan Island. Here, the popular master chef shares a recipe from his travels.

This recipe and image is from Destination Flavour by Adam Liaw (Hardie Grant & SBS Books). Adam Liaw’s new TV series Destination Flavour China is on SBS on Wednesday nights at 7.30pm until the end of January (and encore screenings on Sunday nights on SBS Food from 9.30pm) but if you miss any episodes or want to catch it later you can view it for free on SBS On Demand.

For more recipes see sbs.com.au/destinationflavour

SHANDONG ROAST CHICKEN Serves: 4 | Preparation time: 20mins | Standing time: overnight Cooking time: 1hr | Level of difficulty: Easy INGREDIENTS • 1 whole free-range chicken, about 1.6kg • 1/2 tsp salt • 2 tbsp dark soy sauce • 2 tbsp Shaoxing wine • 2 tsp grated ginger, juice only (optional) • 1 tsp sugar • 1 tbsp vegetable oil Shandong sauce • 60ml (1/4 cup) black vinegar • 2 tsp soy sauce • 2 tsp sugar • 2 bird’s eye chillies, thinly sliced • 1 coriander plant, stalk and root finely chopped, leaves reserved • 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

METHOD 1. Rub the chicken all over with the salt, inside and out.

2. Place the dark soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, ginger juice and sugar in a small bowl and stir to dissolve the sugar. Rub all the marinade over the chicken. Refrigerate the chicken overnight, leaving it uncovered to help the skin dry out. If you don’t have time to dry the chicken overnight (or even if you do), you can help dry out the skin by blowing it with a hairdryer for about 10 minutes. Drying the skin helps create a crisp skin.

3. Preheat the oven to 200˚C. Place the chicken in a baking dish and brush all over with the oil. Roast for 1 hour, then remove from the oven and rest for 15 minutes. If you like, you can butterfly the chicken and roast it for 40-45 minutes instead.

4. For the Shandong sauce, combine all the ingredients together in a bowl, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add a few spoons of the rendered chicken oil from the pan.

5. Cut the chicken into pieces and serve smothered in the Shandong sauce and scattered with coriander leaves.

BNE January/February 2019 | 29

TASTE

PERFECT FOR

sundowners

Inspired by heritage rotundas in Brisbane’s parks, the octagonal Mr Percival’s is the stand-out venue of Brisbane’s newest entertainment precinct, Howard Smith Wharves, jutting out over the river under the Story Bridge. Damien Styles (formerly of The Fish House, Burleigh Heads) leads the kitchen with a focus on aperitivo-style snacks – fried zucchini fritters, lobster rolls, anchovies in olive oil, lemon and garlic, or whipped cod roe served with a warm baguette are just a few. Big doors on all sides create the perfect indoor outdoor ambience with a whimsical decor inside and stunning views of the city from the deck as the sun goes down. Open from 11am seven days at 5 Boundary Street, city. See www.mrpercivals.com.au

Tribute to Beirne

Beirne Lane, the new 24/7 social hotspot in Fortitude Valley also honours an historical landmark – opening in the heritage-listed T.C Beirne building, once the Valley’s first department store. Food, too, pays tribute to the store’s founder with dishes that reflect his Irish heritage, as well as, apparently, his love for Japan. The menu

by Zac Sykes (right) includes an extensive list of bar snacks, a raw bar, selections from the grill and dessert. That includes such tasty morsels as cheesy Japanese curry covered chips, chicken fat popcorn and spicy pork rinds with seaweed crisps and peanuts. The new motto is dine and drink all day, dance all night. Find it at 315 Brunswick Street, Fortitude Valley. See www.beirnelane.co

Roll on down to the river

Proud Mary has moved into Brisbane Powerhouse, bringing a taste of soul food and Bloody Marys to the riverfront adjacent to New Farm Park.

The food menu is influenced by New Orleans and the French heritage of chef Jennifer Motsch so strap in for some oyster po’ boys, griddled crab cakes, buckets of prawns and crispy squid or connect over sharing buckets of fried chicken with muffins and build-your-own beef brisket tortillas. Start at the deep end and jump straight in to the Queen Mary Long Brunch every Saturday from 10.30am to 1.30pm, complete with bottomless Bloody Marys or bubbles, if you want. Open seven days. See www.proudmarybrisbanepowerhouse.com.au

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FUEL UP In 1885 Karl Benz’s Motorwagen was the world’s first petrol-powered vehicle to hit the road, but in 2019 its namesake is the first dining venue to be attached to a Mercedes-Benz boutique in Australia and it’s right in the centre of Brisbane’s CBD. The new Motorwagen proposes casual dining with a European flair, serving up dishes such as savoury macarons with saffron risotto (and a more Aussiefied watermelon, fetta and beetroot salad), or perhaps an Italian ravioli for larger appetites and a buttermilk panna cotta for dessert. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner at 300 Adelaide Street, city. See www.motorwagen.com.au

OUT FOR A DUCK

New food providore Mercado in the ever-growing King Street dining precinct has opened The Duck Room blending flavours from Hong Kong, Taiwan and Japan with its signature roast duck. The specialty adds to the dine-in experience at Mercado which features its hero produce in tasting plates and a selection of Cheung Fun (rice noodle rolls), meat dishes, fresh seafood platters, wood fired pizzas and more. Open for dining from 7am, marketplace open from 8am seven days. Find it at Brisbane Showgrounds, 3/30 King Street Bowen Hills. See www.mercadobrisbane.com.au

Star chef RETURNS TO OPEN

Seeds

Bruno Loubet is back in Brisbane to share his wholesome outlook on food, writes Kerry Heaney

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here was some sadness in London when highly acclaimed Michelin-star chef Bruno Loubet shut up his vegetable-centric Grain Store restaurant in 2017 and moved back to Australia.

When it opened four years earlier, Grain Store was at the forefront of putting vegetables before meat on menus at the trendy end of town and even had an outlet at Gatwick Airport – a dramatic change for London’s foodie crowd and a coup for Loubet who had spent decades serving up more classic French bistro fare in England and Australia.

But London’s loss is Brisbane’s gain as Loubet has returned to realise his dream of living an ethically sustainable life with his family in South East Queensland. “I always wanted to come back to Australia and live a sustainable organic life in the country,” he says. The timing seemed just right. When Loubet sold Grain Store in London, a dream property at Willow Vale in the Gold Coast hinterland that he and his wife Catherine had seen once before came back on the market and the classic Queenslander on acreage has become their new home.

Loubet’s own diet is mainly vegetarian and now he is sharing his passion for plant-based fresh and healthy food with an appreciative audience of travellers with the opening of Seeds by Bruno Loubet at Brisbane Airport’s Domestic Terminal.

Seeds has been open only for a short time but airline staff have quickly become regulars. “It is common for people to come back after they have finished their meal and thank the staff for the food which is very pleasing,” Loubet says.

The Seeds concept is a new and refreshing combination of plant-based options, all made on-site. It starts with six different base salads, each designed to be a substantial meal.

Diners select their salad and can decide whether or not to add a protein option such as chicken poached with Asian flavours or mushrooms roasted with miso. Then there is a choice of six different dressings, served in individual bottles so diners can add to suit their own personal taste.

There is no doubt about the freshness of the salad and wrap ingredients.

Video screens on the serving counter show how some of the dishes are made and chefs can be seen working in the Seeds kitchen.

“It is restaurant quality food made for takeaway,” says Loubet.

Seeds by Bruno Loubet is open on Level 2, after security, at the Qantas Café Court, Domestic Terminal, Brisbane Airport. For more dining options at Brisbane Airport see www.bne.com.au/ Follow Kerry Heaney at www.eatdrinkandbekerry.net BNE January/February 2019 | 31

WHAT’S ON

Rhythm of life IN THE CITY

She’s played Myley Cyrus in Wrecking Ball, Adele in Rumour Has It and Fay in Ladies in Black and, after a successful run in the cast of Beautiful, the Carole King Musical, Naomi Price (left) is back centre stage in Sweet Charity, a world-wide hit from Broadway. This production is a more intimate rendering, taking audiences inside the Fandango Ballroom in 1966 to see close up dance hall hostess Sweet Charity Valentine navigate the pitfalls of life and love in the big city. It’s a fun-filled rom-com between songs like ‘Big Spender’ and ‘The Rhythm of Life’ that gets the toes tapping. From 24 January to 10 February at Visy Theatre, Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm. Tickets from $65 plus fees at www.brisbanepowerhouse.org

Gotta love a BUM JOKE You can’t go past a good bum joke to keep the kids entertained and the master of the art is award-winning author Andy Griffiths who will make a special appearance to sign copies of his books at the world premiere of The Day My Bum Went Psycho, at Brisbane Arts Theatre. This is the story of a boy, his runaway bum and some of the most dangerous bums in the world in an ultimate kid adventure. From 19 January to 9 March, weekends only, at Brisbane Arts Theatre, Petrie Terrace, city. Andy Griffiths appears on 27 January. Tickets from $20 plus fees, see www.artstheatre.com.au

LIFE on the edge

Queensland Theatre director Jason Klarwein (centre, above) takes on Arthur Miller’s withering commentary on capitalism in the company’s season opener Death of a Salesman. The Pulitzer prize-winning play, written in 1949, has been called the greatest play of the 20th century and has lost none of its power in its critique of contemporary life, viewed through the eyes of salesman Willy Loman. Once king of the road, Loman finds himself veering off it, sidelined by his younger boss, behind on his mortgage, jealous of his successful neighbours and at odds with his family.

From 9 February to 2 March at Playhouse, QPAC, South Brisbane.

Tickets from $73 plus fees, see www.qpac.com.au

to watch The Mountain Goat Valley Crawl transforms Fortitude Valley into a multi-venue festival on Saturday 16 February, held across 10 venues and boasting more than 50 acts, all for free.

Here are some of the locals to watch…

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INIGO

LALKA

Singer, songwriter and multi-instrumentalist Erin Fitzsimon can be heard in a number of musical guises but her passion project is Inigo, where alt-pop meets new-soul. Ever since her first single ‘Hurricane’ was released Fitzsimon has been experimenting with different sounds for Inigo, making her a fun and vibrant performer, and a popular guest on the festival and tour circuit. Her new EP is up next. Stay tuned.

Lalka trained as a classical musician but turned to electronic music to take charge of her own sound and express herself more creatively. She not only writes and records, she produces her own songs, and directs and edits her own videos, keeping ahead of the curve with adventurous and action-packed productions. Now, three singles later, and with a growing list of supporters, she is firmly on the watch list.

ALICE CRASHES

Wonderland

The humour and eccentricity of Lewis Carroll’s whimsical story is transformed into a ballet on a Broadway scale in the Australian Ballet’s production of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. Making its debut in Brisbane, the award-winning ballet brings the tale to life with extravagant sets, magnificent costumes, cinematic music, high-tech wizadry and a dazzling display of dance that includes a tap-dancing Mad Hatter, a rampaging Queen of Hearts and a shimmying White Rabbit in this family-friendly adventure. From 25 February to 2 March at Lyric Theatre, QPAC, South Brisbane. Tickets from $51 plus fees, see www.qpac.com.au

Ancient culture revived Films from ASIA PACIFIC Rapid social changes in contemporary India have sparked a resurgence in independent filmmaking with storylines that challenge long-standing social mores. As part of APT9 at GOMA the cinema program includes a series of ‘New Bollywood: Currents in Indian Cinema’ films including award-winners such as the cheeky comedy about democracy Newton (2017) and the gently powerful Hotel Salvation (2016, left) as well as the controversial and hugely popular romance Sairat (2016). The APT9 cinema program also includes Contemporary Mellow Dramas from East Asia. Films are free.

Find the program for January and February at Australian Cinémathèque, www.qagoma.qld.gov.au

In Shen Yun’s latest production stories from the distant past are retold in the language of classical music and dance, a theatrical experience that traverses 5000 years of traditional Chinese culture.

Celestial maidens and valiant warriors perform sometimes gravity-defying skills in vibrant ethnic and folk dances that fill the stage with colour and energy, reviving ancient legends and lifting the spirit.

On 26 and 27 February at Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane. Tickets from $109 plus fees, see www.qpac.com.au

TINY CASTLE

THE BONNIE DOONS

SAN MEI

There’s nothing tiny about this foursome of James Walker, Will Rowles, Ben Goulter and Chris Trupp who have made a big impact playing live ever since their first single went public, little more than a year ago. Since then they have continued to make waves as a live band, playing at iconic venues such as Black Bear Lodge and The Zoo in the Valley, and The Milk Factory in South Brisbane to an indie-rock fan club.

Taking their inspiration from artists such as Red Hot Chili Peppers, Sticky Fingers, Hendrix and Oasis, it’s no surprise to fans that the Bonnie Doons should take out The Brightside’s Battle of the Bands competition last year. They’ve supported Wolfmother and Bootleg Rascal on tour and their first singles have had nothing less than four-star reviews.

Their debut EP, due out in February, will get the party started.

Gold Coaster Emily Hamilton, better known now as San Mei, began her musical journey at the keys of her family piano, her Dad’s favourite Beatles records and classic ’60s pop tunes playing in the background. Her influences have since matured and her first EP earned her some solid airplay on new music playlists. Her second led to a supporting role on Holy Holy’s Australian tour and, as they say, good things come in threes …

BNE January/February 2019 | 33

WHAT’S ON

Closer look at landscapes

Above: Mona Vale Beach by Amanda Penrose Hart. Right: Tali by Alice Nampitjinpa

ALL ABOUT PIXELS

A

rtists view landscapes differently, from the Western tradition of natural scenery and a contemporary vision of urban sprawl to Aboriginal paintings that explore an ancient connection to the landscape, viewed instead from a topographical perspective. Such an eclectic mix of the way different artists portray landscapes through painting is revealed in the exhibition Landscapes, curated by Mitchell Fine Art Gallery and showing at Sofitel Brisbane Central, Turbot Street, city until March 2019.

Cultural connection IN ART Brisbane-based artist Dale Harding is a descendant of the Bidjara, Ghungalu and Garingbal peoples of Central and Western Queensland, who examines the political and social histories of his family and community through his works across diverse media. Current Iterations will be his largest exhibition to date, featuring new and recent works, including a major new body of sculptures. From 9 February to 30 March at Institute of Modern Art (IMA) Brisbane, Judith Wright Centre, 420 Brunswick Street, Fortitude Valley.

LO N E S TA R I N

I

nspired by retro games and technology, Power to the Pixel is an exhibition that highlights the nostalgic art style, bringing every small detail into focus.

Stand in close to see every pixel, or step back to view the impact of the image as a whole and enjoy the work of some of the best pixel artists in the world. Free, from 15 January to 17 February in the Visy foyer at Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm.

spotlight

Almost every material artist Mona Ryder uses has a history, or has been used in a different way than she applies it in her work – mussel shells, human hair, vintage chairs, shoes, even burnt toast are presented as fragmented memories of life, love and loss which can be seen in the exhibition Mona Ryder Lone Star, the most significant showing of her work in 10 years.

For almost half a century Ryder has challenged audiences with her exploration of themes based on relationships and gender rituals in day-to-day life, such as motherhood, birth and domesticity. This exhibition includes new and some neverbefore-shown works but Ryder encourages viewers to create their own associations of the work and take something away for themselves. Until 16 February at artisan, Brisbane Showgrounds precinct, 45 King Street, Bowen Hills.

FASHION AS

art

Dress Code, a new exhibition at Museum of Brisbane, looks at different cultural approaches to making, wearing and buying fashion across the Asia Pacific and features work by artist-in-residence, costume maker Gerwyn Davies, an installation by Lisa Hilli and newly commissioned work by artists Hannah Gartside, Emily McGuire and Grace Lillian Lee. Cairns-based Lee (left) draws inspiration from her Indigenous heritage and is best known for her detailed wearable artworks that merge Torres Strait Islander weaving traditions with contemporary fashion practice. Lee works closely with Indigenous communities for collaboration and to mentor others in creative expression.

Dress Code, on until 28 January, is part of the Museum’s celebration of art, fashion and culture this summer, which includes the major exhibition of Easton Pearson’s Archive collection. At Museum of Brisbane, City Hall, see www.museumofbrisbane.com.au

love

Looking for

Broken Romantics: A Unicorn’s Quest For Love is a magical ‘mixed tape’ of broken romantic memories, which was a hit of the Edinburgh Fringe Festival last year. Created by singer/songwriter Emma Dean and performed with her Broken Romantics band, it features original music, storytelling and popular songs by Sia, Foo Fighters, physical theatre and more. On 22 and 23 February at Visy Theatre, Brisbane Powerhouse. Tickets from $39 plus fees, see www.brisbanepowerhouse.org

CRACKER COMEDY The Brisbane Comedy Festival turns 10 this year and celebrates with a bumper four-week program that sees Aussie expat Felicity Ward (right) return home from sell-out shows in the UK – and a nomination for Best Comedy at the esteemed Edinburgh Fringe last year – for a one-night only performance of Busting the Nut. Ward is joined on the program by Australia’s finest – including Nazeem Hussain, Lawrence Mooney, Tim Ferguson, Mel Buttle and the Double Denim girls, Michelle Brasier and Laura Frew – as well as international ring-ins such as Danny Bhoy, Ronny Chieng and Canada’s DeAnne Smith. Felicity Ward appears on 23 February at Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm. Tickets from $38 plus fees at www.brisbanepowerhouse.org Brisbane Comedy Festival is on from 22 February to 24 March at Brisbane Powerhouse, Brisbane City Hall and Sunnybank’s SunPAC Theatre. See the program at www.brisbanecomedyfestival.com.au

New world music

Jade New World Collective is an initiative of QPAC to transcend boundaries and foster original music that reflects the evolving cultural landscape of the city. In its premiere concert, Crystal Moonlight, the collective features Indigenous didgeridoo musician David Williams, Japanese koto master Takako Haggarty Nishibori, Nepalese tabla virtuoso Dheeraj Shrestha, and Australian guitarist Dr Anthony Garcia (below). The result is a contemporary performance of Indigenous Australian music integrated with Western classical and traditional Asian soundscapes. Stay tuned for more guest musicians to be added to the repertoire. On 26 February at Cremorne Theatre, QPAC, South Brisbane. Tickets from $39 plus fees, see www.qpac.com.au

WHEN WHAT

WHERE

JANUARY 2

Jersey Boys

Lyric Theatre, QPAC, South Brisbane

4

Deadly 60 Down Under

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane

6

The Kooks

Eatons Hill Hotel, Eatons Hill

12

For Shore Festival

Sandstone Point Hotel, Sandstone Point

15

Mumford & Sons

Brisbane Entertainment Centre, Boondall

16

Gabriel Iglesias, One Show Fits All World Tour

Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane

17

Dress Code Curator Tour

Museum of Brisbane, City Hall

18

A Salon of Larrikins

Cremorne Theatre, QPAC, South Brisbane

19

Phil Collins

Suncorp Stadium, Milton

20

So Frenchy So Chic

Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm

23

Florence and the Machine

Riverstage, City Botanic Gardens

From 24 Aust v Sri Lanka Day-Night Test

The Gabba, Woolloongabba

25

Tribute to Talking Heads

The Triffid, Newstead

27

Holy Green Festival

Sandstone Point Hotel, Sandstone Point

Until 28 Dress Code, exhibition

Museum of Brisbane, City Hall

29

Elaine Page

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane

30

Slash and his band Myles Kennedy Brisbane Convention and Exhibition & The Conspirators Centre, South Brisbane

From 31 Keith Urban

Brisbane Entertainment Centre, Boondall

From 31 Songs and Times of Sam Cook

Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm

FEBRUARY 1-3

Anh Do, The Happiest Refugee

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane

1

Boyce Avenue

Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane

7

Unpacking the Archive Designer Tour: Easton Pearson

Museum of Brisbane, City Hall

8

The Kings of Country Rock

Redland Performing Arts Centre, Cleveland

8

The Beautiful Girls

The Triffid, Newstead

From 9

BrisAsia Festival

Various

9

Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire in concert with QSO

Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane

10

An evening with Nigella Lawson

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane

12

Politics in the Pub

Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm

13

Nickelback

Brisbane Entertainment Centre, Boondall

14

The Seen and Unseen, film screening, BrisAsia Festival

Museum of Brisbane, City Hall

16+17

World Travel Expo

Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane

From 16

Single Asian Female

La Boite Theatre, Kelvin Grove

19

Nashville Live

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane

19

Maroon 5

Brisbane Entertainment Centre, Boondall

22

John Butler Trio

Riverstage, City Botanic Gardens

23

Nitro Circus

Suncorp Stadium, Milton

27

Orbital

The Triffid, Newstead

27

Bananarama

Eatons Hill Hotel, Eatons Hill BNE January/February 2019 | 35

BOOKS

Holiday

LONG HAUL FIRE AND BLOOD

READING

George R.R Martin As Game of Thrones finally comes to an end on TV screens this year, George R.R Martin goes back in time to where it all began, 300 years before the Starks and Lannisters, when dragons ruled Westeros. In his latest book, Fire and Blood (HarperVoyager), Martin chronicles the history of the Targaryens in Westeros from the conquest that united the Seven Kingdoms under Targaryen rule through to the Dance of the Dragons, the Targaryen civil war that nearly ended their dynasty forever.

SHORT HAUL TURBULENCE

David Szalay SECRET CITY: THE CAPITAL FILES In David Szalay’s Turbulence Steve Lewis and Chris Uhlmann (Jonathan Cape) 12 people When Secret City: The Capital Files was released co-author embark on 12 plane journeys Chris Uhlmann said that some Australian politicians around the world, from London imagined themselves to be characters in the book, “but then to Madrid, to Toronto, to again, they have vivid imaginations,” he joked at the time.

Delhi, to Doha and beyond, The book has been called a ‘House of Cards, Canberra each to see lovers, parents, style’ and Uhlmann as well as his co-author Steve children, siblings, or nobody Lewis have plenty of experience as reporters from the at all, and each in some way press gallery to bring biting wit to this taut thriller touching the life of the next. that spills on secrets, subterfuge, conspiracy and cover-up in Originally commissioned as a radio series, Turbulence brings all 12 short our own political capital. By the way, it is fiction, says Uhlmann! stories together in this book and deftly depicts the ripple effect that, knowingly or otherwise, a person’s actions have on those around them.

A BEER IN THE LOIRE

Tommy Barnes Tommy Barnes tells his real-life story of a Bernard Cohen turbulent journey in A Beer in the Loire Vogel award winner Bernard Cohen was also inspired (Muswell Press), leaving his dead-end by relationships for his first short story collection, job in the city to pursue his dream of When I Saw an Animal (UQP). “The stories were drawn brewing beer – in the wine country from the ways strangers, friends or siblings, clients or of France. It’s far from an easy road professionals speak to and treat each other, relationships and he doesn’t sugar-coat it. He across generations, often at cross-purposes and, of course, our settles in a dilapidated house, cross-species relationships. In the stories, animals are sometimes knows little about brewing, has companions – but more disturbingly human rivals, playthings, a few calamities on the way, and wrestles with a demon industrial products, totems and (in the title story) nightmares,” he dog, but he muddles through, meets some colourful says. The tales are filled with a sharp wit and dark humour. characters and somehow survives. He even shares a collection of beer recipes which may just inspire the reader to entertain thoughts of a life change too.

WHEN I SAW AN ANIMAL

ROAR

Cecelia Ahern Irish author Cecelia Ahern’s 30 stories about 30 women in Roar (HarperCollins) are provocative and witty, with titles such as ‘The Woman Who Slowly Disappeared’ and ‘The Woman Who Returned and Exchanged Her Husband’. They capture the moments the characters are overwhelmed by guilt, confusion, frustration, intimidation, exhaustion – private moments that will resonate with women everywhere.

THE NIGHT TRAIN Thom Jones The Night Train (Faber) is a collection of new and selected stories by short-fiction legend Thom Jones who died in 2016.

His characters are grifters and drifters, rogues and ne’er-dowells – some lovable, some not – but all highly entertaining, their stories often bleakly and outrageously comic.

36 | BNE January/February 2019

SAVING YOU Charlotte Nash In Saving You (Hachette) Brisbane writer Charlotte Nash conjures an emotionally compelling drama around a single mother who meets three pensioners on the run from their care home and they become odd travel companions on a cross-country road trip to find her missing child.

ZEBRA Debra Adelaide A body buried in a suburban backyard. A love affair born in a bookshop. A very strange gift for a most unusual Prime Minister ... these are just a few of the tantalising, poignant, wry and just a little fantastical collection of short stories – and one singular novella – in Zebra (Picador) by bestselling author and associate professor in creative writing at UTS, Debra Adelaide.

Find more good reads at Watermark Books & Café, Newslink, Aero and News Travels, Domestic Terminal Level 2 and at News Travels, International Terminal Levels 2, 3, 4.

DAY IN THE LIFE Reta Albert is farewelled by her nephews Bill, Terry, Neil and Dale on her departure for Seattle, USA

Isabella and Abigail Sweetney departing for a holiday to the Philippines, Egypt and Macau

Fili Galumalemana and son Henry farewell Kimmy and Fletcher on their way to Las Vegas

BRISBANE AIRPORT is the gateway to 83 CITIES across Australia and overseas, opening up a WORLD of adventure for more than 23 MILLION passengers every year. These are just a few snapped on their journey...

Mila and Ruby Gorrow with Xenia Kelch departing for Bali

Rob and Isabella Ford returning to Perth after a holiday on the Gold Coast Avery Moore waits for her friend Caitlyn arriving from Colorado, USA Rebecca and Chloe Jacobsen from Townsville, in transit to Sydney for a show and shopping

Andrew McVittie, from the Sunshine Coast, in transit to Emerald

Army Sergeant Joe Rounds welcomed home from duties in Iraq with Task Group Taji 7 Tayla and Evelyn Tudehope departing for Auckland

BNE NEED TO KNOW

Enviro-friendly BUSES

A new fleet of electric buses transports passengers between Brisbane Airport terminals and Skygate retail precinct or the long-stay AIRPARK. The buses are quieter and better for the environment, reducing carbon emissions equivalent to taking 100 cars off the road each year. Interiors, too, have been designed with travellers in mind, with plenty of luggage racks, three fullsized double doors for easy entry and exit and GPS next-stop announcements.

Brisbane Airport is the first Australian airport to introduce a fleet of 11 electric buses for passengers and services operating between the Domestic and International Terminals from 4am to 11pm daily; between the terminals and Skygate from 6.30am (weekdays, and from 8.30am weekends) to 6pm; and 24/7 between terminals and AIRPARK. Terminal Transfer Bus services are free. For timetables see www.bne.com.au/passenger/to-and-from/terminal-transfers

TRANSPORT OPTIONS AT BRISBANE AIRPORT PASSENGER PICK-UP ZONES

TERMINAL TRANSFERS Passengers transferring between the terminals can travel via the free Transfer Bus which departs at regular intervals from Level 2 International Terminal and Level 1 Domestic Terminal. See the BNE app for timetables.

38 | BNE January/February 2019

BNE PARKING Convenient, secure and undercover short and long-term parking is available within walking distance to both terminals. For more information about special offers and full product offering including valet, car washing, AIRPARK and more see www.bne.com.au

RIDE SHARE PICK-UP ZONES Look for the signs indicating Pre-Booked Express and Ride Booking (Ride Share) zones outside each terminal.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT TransLink is the local bus, ferry and train public transport network stretching north to Gympie, south to Coolangatta and west to Helidon. For information and timetables see www.translink.com.au or call 13 12 30.

TRANSPORT BOOKINGS Image: Uber

Domestic Terminal: A dedicated pick-up waiting area provides free parking for the first 30 minutes for drivers arriving to collect passengers from Domestic Terminal, located beside the P2 long term car park and accessed from Dryandra Road. Passengers can contact the driver when they are ready for collection and the driver can proceed to the pick-up location. For easy how to use instructions see www.bne.com.au/ International Terminal: The dedicated passenger pick-up area for international arrivals is located at ground level at the northern end of the International Terminal. It is accessible only to drivers collecting passengers who are ready and waiting at the kerb.

Alternatively, waiting areas with longer parking options can be found at the pick-up waiting area accessible from Dryandra Road (up to 30 minutes), Skygate shopping and dining precinct or Kingsford Smith Memorial (both up to two hours), all just minutes from International Terminal.

Drivers collecting passengers with a disability or mobility limitation from International Terminal can stop in accessible waiting bays on the Level 4 ‘Departures’ Road.

Domestic Terminal: On the central road between the taxi pick-up and passenger drop-off on either side of the Skywalk.

International Terminal: Outside the terminal at the southern end on ground level.

A Brisbane Airport access fee of $3.90 applies to all pick-ups from the Ride Booking zones, which will be added to your booking by your ride sharing service. For location maps see www.bne.com.au/to-from-brisbane-airport/ transport-options

Coach, rail, limousine and corporate car bookings can be made at the Visitor Information Centre, Level 2 International Terminal or Level 1 Domestic Terminal.

TAXIS AND AIRTRAIN Taxi ranks International Terminal Level 2, kerbside Domestic Terminal Level 1, kerbside Airtrain provides regular rail links between Brisbane Airport, Brisbane city, Gold Coast and TransLink network as well as terminal transfers. Tickets available in the terminal or at the station.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRES For information about accommodation, tours, transfer tickets and general enquiries, Visitor Information Centres are located on Level 2 International Terminal and Level 1 Domestic Terminal Central Area.

LOCAL AMENITIES

CURRENCY EXCHANGE Travelex currency exchange and transfer facilities are on Levels 2, 3 and 4 International Terminal and Level 2 Domestic Terminal near Gate 23.

Skygate is Brisbane Airport’s retail and dining precinct, a short free ride on the Transfer Bus from the terminals. There are more than 160 stores, including brand-name factory outlets, a 24/7 supermarket, hairdresser, gym, restaurants, chemist, medical clinic, hotel, beauty services, barber, tavern and golf leisure centre.

BAGGAGE LOCKERS

AIRPORT ambassadors Welcoming volunteers are available to answer questions and offer directions to visitors within Brisbane Airport’s Domestic and International Terminals. Look for ambassadors wearing bright blue shirts if you need assistance and our team of Chinese-speaking ambassadors wear red shirts.

TAX REFUND SCHEME (TRS) The TRS enables international travellers to claim a refund, subject to certain conditions, of the Goods and Services Tax (GST) and Wine Equalisation Tax (WET) that you pay on goods bought in Australia. For details see passenger information at www.bne.com.au If your purchase is part of your carry-on luggage: The TRS office is located past security and passport control, just to the right of the JR/Duty Free entrance.

If your purchase is packed in luggage you intend to check: Before you check-in your luggage make your way to the Australian Border Force Client Services Office, located on Level 1 International Terminal. For further information call 1300 363 263 or see www.customs.gov.au

TOUR BRISBANE AIRPORT Do you have a question about the new runway?

Would you like to go ‘behind-the-scenes’ of airport operations? Brisbane Airport hosts free tours for community groups. Find out more at www.bne.com.au/tours

ROTARY CLUB OF BRISBANE AIRPORT The club is a vibrant group of professionals with a shared passion to support the local community who meet weekly and new members are always welcome.

For details see www.bneairportrotary.com

Find small, medium and large lockers for short and long-term hire at the terminal entrance to the public car park at International Terminal, at either end of Domestic Terminal, or next to the bus stop at Skygate.

DISABILITY ACCESS Airlines are responsible for assisting passengers with disabilities within terminals.

Passengers should refer to their airline’s policies prior to booking their ticket.

Dedicated Changing Places bathroom facilities for the use of travellers with special needs are located on the central ground floor area of Domestic Terminal (near Qantas baggage carousel 3) and on Level 4, International Terminal, near Flight Centre.

Facilities for assistance dogs are available at International Terminal Level 3 Departures and Domestic Terminal Level 2 Central Area.

POLICE For assistance at Brisbane Airport telephone 13 12 37.

LOST PROPERTY International Terminal Visitor Information Centre, Level 2; call (07) 3406 3190 or email international@sqt.com.au

Domestic Terminal Enquiries first to airlines –

Qantas (gates 1-25) call +61 7 3867 3264 Virgin Australia (gates 38-50) call +61 7 3114 8150 Jetstar (gates 26-36) call + 61 7 3336 1752 Tigerair email ttbne.ops@aerocare.com.au before contacting Visitor Information Centre, Level 1; call (07) 3068 6698 or email domestic@sqt.com.au

Car parks and buses

Contact Visitor Information Centre as above.

WiFi access

Brisbane Airport has the fastest uncapped free WiFi in Australia available at International Terminal and Domestic Terminal Central Area.

BNE IT ALL BEGINS HERE

Seoul

Beijing

South Korea

China

Tokyo (Narita) Japan

Shanghai (Pudong)

Guangzhou

China

China

Shenzhen China

Dubai

United Arab Emirates

Bangkok

Abu Dhabi

Hong Kong

Taipei Taiwan

China

Thailand

United Arab Emirates

Manila

Philippines

Kuala Lumpur

Malaysia

Singapore Singapore

Port Moresby Papua New Guinea

Denpasar

3 8

Indonesia

BRISBANE

Destinations DIRECT FROM BRISBANE

Air China Air Canada

Air Niugini Air New Zealand

40 | BNE January/February 2019

Aircalin Air Vanuatu

Cathay Pacific Alliance Airlines

China Eastern Airlines China Airlines

Eva Air

Emirates China Southern Airlines

Etihad

Fly Corporate Fiji Airlines

Australia’s largest domestic network Vancouver

Domestic destinations

Canada

Los Angeles USA

Honolulu

USA

Darwin

Nauru Nauru

Cairns

Apia

Munda Honiara

Solomon Islands

Mt Isa

Port Hedland

Espiritu Santo

Longreach

Vanuatu

Alice Springs

Port Vila Vanuatu Nadi

New Caledonia

Perth

Auckland New Zealand

Queenstown New Zealand

Moranbah Barcaldine Emerald

Blackall

Whitsunday Coast (Proserpine) Hamilton Island Mackay Rockhampton Gladstone

Biloela Bundaberg Windorah Charleville Fraser Coast (Hervey Bay) Birdsville Roma Miles Quilpie BRISBANE St George Toowoomba Thargomindah Cunnamulla Norfolk Island Moree Inverell Narrabri Coffs Harbour Tamworth Armidale Dubbo Port Macquarie

Uluru

Fiji

Noumea

Townsville

Cloncurry

Samoa

Newcastle Orange Sydney Lord Howe Island Wollongong Canberra

Adelaide

Wellington New Zealand

Christchurch New Zealand

Melbourne

Dunedin

New Zealand

Launceston Hobart

Map not to scale. Please note airlines and destinations are current at time of print.

Hawaiian Airlines Hainan Airlines

Korean Air Jetstar

Malindo Air Malaysia Airlines

Philippine Airlines Nauru Airlines

Rex Qantas/ QantasLink

Singapore Airlines Samoa Airways

Thai Airways Solomon Airlines

Virgin Australia Tigerair

BNE January/February 2019 | 41

ESCAPE EXTRA

Tallebudgera FOR TEENS

Images: Destination Gold Coast and Tallebudgera Creek Tourist Park

Holidays at Tallebudgera Creek are the stuff that childhood memories are made on. It’s a favourite destination, where the creek meets the ocean just south of Burleigh Heads, that keeps families coming back through generations ... just like DECLAN VANDEVEN who has been camping at the Tallebudgera Creek Tourist Park with his family every year for the last 10. Now, at age 13, it’s still his favourite place to holiday and this is why he thinks it’s a top spot for young teens …

FISHING: Tallebudgera means ‘good fish’ in Aboriginal language and you can do it all here – creek or beach, netting, yabbying and worming. You’re not going to catch a record breaker, but there’s heaps of whiting, bream and flathead willing to take your bait from dawn to dusk. You can even make a quick buck catching and selling beach worms or yabbies to other fishermen.

PADDLE-BOARDING AND TRIKE RIDING: Hired by the hour it’s a brilliant way

to get on the water or around the park, rain, hail or shine. Word of warning, while the sea breeze makes it easy to get miles up the creek on a paddle-board, coming back into a headwind is my definition of hell.

SUNSET BEACH GAMES: Pack an esky, bring a bat and stumps, a footy or volleyball, a portal speaker, your playlist and some snacks, crank up the music and watch the sun go down.

Don’t worry if you don’t have a full team, plenty of others will want in on the game once you start.

BEACH CAMP FIRE NIGHT: The secluded beaches on the Burleigh side of Tallebudgera Creek are perfect for a night-time gathering toasting marshmallows around a beach fire pit (just check for fire restrictions before you go and make sure the fire and embers are completely out with water before you leave).

BURLEIGH HEADLAND WALK: Run or walk this awesome track that winds through the shady bushland around the headland and up to the peak and back. Spot whales and watch surfers from the point and keep an eye out for water dragons, butterflies, snakes, birds and ‘Cock Rock’ along the way.

FREE PARK EVENTS: Don’t underestimate the free stuff, it’s not all face-painting for kids. We can’t get enough of the free sausage sizzles, pizzas, ice-cream and movies. There’s a schedule of events posted every day.

NEW FRIENDS: I’ve been catching up with

the same kids once a year for 10 years and each year brings new people and new adventures.

Some families have boats and tubes on the creek who will happily take you for a spin and there’s lots of sharing of skateboards, bikes, scooters and footballs.

SWIMMING, SURFING AND SLIDING:

A day can go something like this – morning catching waves at the surf beach, lunchtime dominating the slides in the park pool (there are three) and a lazy afternoon at the creek – or do them all in an hour, they are all within 10 minutes walk.

TREASURE HUNT: Pester the parents to set up a competitive treasure hunt or race around the park game for you and your mates.

Looking for certain items or doing various challenges under a time limit is serious fun, especially when there are prizes up for grabs.

LEAVE THE TECH BEHIND:It sounds a bit naff but if your parents are like mine and play card, board and boules games with their friends, join in. It’s pretty fun when you beat your Dad at poker.

For more information and bookings see Tallebudgera Creek at www.goldcoasttouristparks.com.au

42 | BNE January/February 2019

BRISBANE REGION MAP

We respectfully acknowledge the Traditional Owners of the land on which Brisbane Airport stands and pay respect to their Elders past, present and emerging. *The general locations of larger Indigenous language groups of South East Queensland on this map are indicative only, based on the AIATSIS Map of Indigenous Australia published by Aboriginal Studies Press.

Map illustration by Eun-Young Lim. Map is not to scale or exact and an indication only.

BNE January/February 2019 | 43

SPOILT FOR CHOICE AT BRISBANE AIRPORT

Relax and unwind at your choice of three quality accommodation options within the Brisbane Airport precinct. Perfectly positioned as the closest hotels to Brisbane Airport, the Pullman, Novotel and ibis Brisbane Airport Hotels are sure to entice even the most seasoned travellers.

LANDING NOW www.bneahg.com.au | 07 3139 8114