BNE Magazine Issue 37

FR EE YO M UR AG AZ IN E

ISSUE #37 MARCH/APRIL 2020

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Welcome to your free BNE magazine, brought to you by Brisbane Airport

U CONTENTS

22

5 Brisbane Airport News

24 First timer’s guide to Winton …

6 Play it again

26 Escape Extra

New route, fare deals, security upgrade, community grants, and more Drop your smart devices, retro games are back

8 Brisbane Insider

Women challenging us to look at fashion differently

STYLE 10 Dressed for success

Bending the rules to make a statement at work

ESCAPE 12 Tokyo Top 10

For a snapshot of chaos and calm, old and new, add this list of favourites to your itinerary

16 Wish you were here

After the fires Aussie towns are laying out the welcome mat

20 Taste of Kakadu

Food is not the only reason to visit the Top End during this festival

22 Wet and wild

… and the Vision Splendid Film Festival for an outback adventure this winter

Brisbane makes global cool list; underwater art; jetset food tour; outback golf, and more

42 Escape Extra

An inner city hotel in Brisbane is winning the war on waste

TASTE 30 Meet Brisbane Airport’s delicious new arrivals

Two of Brisbane’s hottest foodie success stories check in

WHAT’S ON 32 Queensland Ballet at 60

Plus Up Late at GOMA; Edith Piaf’s story in cabaret; first look at new work, and more

34 Director’s cut

Does award-winner Daniel Evans have the Midas touch? What you need to know about his next play

35 Events calendar What’s on in the city

The end of the wet season is just the beginning of the wildlife show at Bamurru Plains

GALLERY 37 Day in the Life 8

nofficially, we declare 2020 to be the year of travel. Of course, there are lots of good reasons to travel – way too many to list here – but there’s more incentive than ever to explore communities you’ve never been to, maybe never even heard of until now, and go off the beaten path. For the towns in Australia that have been ravaged by fire (or drought-stricken, or flooded), for others that came close, and still others that might just be on the way, you can make a contribution to their recovery by just being there. As a visitor you may discover a wonderful new experience but for the towns that you visit the benefits go beyond any money you might spend.

As Liz Mitchell, owner of Snowy River Cycling at Orbost in East Gippsland says in our Holiday Here This Year feature on pages 16-19: “When people come to visit they give us spirit, it feels like life is getting back to normal, it injects vitality, and that’s why we want them.” And isn’t that a good reason to travel?

People in transit at Brisbane Airport

NEED TO KNOW 38 Helpful information for

visitors to Brisbane Airport

40 Destination map 43 Brisbane region map

30 BNE magazine is published bi-monthly

by Brisbane Airport Corporation.

Brisbane Airport Corporation Head of Media and Corporate Communications: Leonie Vandeven Managing Editor: Heather McWhinnie (editor@bnemagazine.com.au) Advertising sales: advertising@bnemagazine.com.au Designers: Mhari Hughes and Leanne Thompson, PrintPublish Cover: Images courtesy Tourism and Events Queensland; Destination NSW; SA Tourism Commission; Destination Gippsland and Visit Victoria. ©2020 Brisbane Airport Corporation The contents of this publication are not for reproduction, redistribution or reuse by any means whatsoever or in any form whatsoever without express permission of the publisher. Advertising: all advertisements in BNE magazine are the responsibility of advertisers. Advertising is accepted on the understanding that it does not contravene the Trade Practices Act. Responsibility is not accepted by BNE magazine for statements made or the failure of any product or service to give satisfaction. The publication of any material or editorial does not necessarily constitute endorsement of views or opinions expressed. While every effort is made to avoid errors, some information contained in the publication may be superceded.

BNE March/April 2020 | 3

CHICAGOhere we come!

BRISBANE AIRPORT NEWS

New York, phht! Chicago is the Best Large City in the US according to readers of Condé Nast Traveler who shared a record-breaking 600,000 responses about their travel experiences last year in the lead-up to the magazine’s annual awards. And it’s no flash in the pan fad, this is the third time in a row the ‘Windy City’ has snagged the title from its coastal rivals but we’re not surprised because Chicago is a hotspot for world-class dining – so many Michelin stars to choose from – its Riverwalk has been expanded (we love a riverwalk), culture vultures can get lost in awesome museums, architecture and art, and then there are the must-see neighbourhoods … all good reasons to hop aboard one of Qantas’ new non-stop flights direct between Brisbane and Chicago taking off from 20 April. Like the new non-stop service between BNE and San Francisco that started in February, flights will be aboard Qantas’ 787-9 Dreamliners and the direct route, operating four times weekly from Qantas launches non-stop flights between Brisbane and Chicago four BNE, shaves a tidy six hours off the current return times weekly from 20 April flight time. Chicago here we come!

CHEAPER FARES to the OUTBACK

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ex Airlines has extended its popular Community Fare Scheme until 31 December 2020, discounting airfares between major tourist gateway cities and outback towns on its Queensland network. If you’re prepared to book more than 60 days in advance or take your chances on unsold seats 24 hours before travel then you could nab a saving of between 20 per cent and more than 35 per cent on routes between Brisbane and Birdsville, Townsville and Winton, Cairns and Mt Isa and more than a dozen other outback destinations such as Longreach, Charleville and Julia Creek. For details see www.rex.com.au

NEW SECURITY MEASURES at BRISBANE AIRPORT

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ome passengers travelling through Brisbane Airport already may have experienced new bodyscan screening which is being implemented at both Domestic and International Terminals and it’s just the beginning of a high-tech upgrade to security screening procedures which will be put in place over the next three years.

The body scanners will eventually replace the current walk-through metal detectors at all screening points and later this year installation will begin on new CT Technology to replace the X-ray machines now in use for carry-on baggage. According to Gary Chadwick, security operations manager at Brisbane Airport, the new processes will provide a higher standard of screening while being less intrusive and quicker for travellers. To hear Chadwick explain the new processes watch the video at www.bne.com.au/screeningupgrade

We’ve got some SPECIAL COMMUNITY EVENTS planned to celebrate the opening of BRISBANE AIRPORT’S NEW RUNWAY coming in July, so if you’d like to be among the first to find out how to JOIN THE FESTIVITIES sign up for Take-off eNews at www.bne.com.au

New fund to assist

regional communities

Townsville’s Picnic Bay Surf Life Saving Club (pictured below), based on the beach at Strand Park, is one of the first community groups to benefit from Brisbane Airport Corporation’s new Regional Giving Fund. The new initiative is an extension to the Community Giving Fund that has so far donated almost $400,000 to eligible projects that serve the community in the Brisbane Greater Region.

According to Jacinta Messer, Brisbane Airport Corporation’s sponsorship and events manager, the new Regional Giving Fund is an important next step.

“As the capital city gateway to Queensland, the connections between Brisbane and key regional cities and towns such as Townsville are growing so we want to help some of those organisations that are investing in their communities,” she says.

Over the last 12 months passenger numbers between Brisbane and Townsville increased to a record of more than one million passengers and Messer says she is confident that when the new runway at Brisbane Airport opens in July it will help travel to regional Queensland grow even further.

Meanwhile applications are now open until 31 March for the next round of grants from the Brisbanebased Community Giving Fund.

For information and to apply search Community Giving Fund at www.bne.com.au

CONNECT WITH BNE BNE March/April 2020 | 5

again

BRISBANE INSIDER

Play it

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ARCHIE BROTHERS CIRQUE ELECTRIQ, TOOMBUL Evoking a strong sense of nostalgia, this new kid on the arcade block opened in Brisbane late last year (following openings in Sydney in 2017 and Melbourne in 2018) and takes visitors back to the world of travelling circuses and fairground attractions where you can play the old shooting ducks game modernised with laser targets, try your luck on the ring toss built into an automated machine, knock down real or digital targets with balls, take a ride on the dodgem cars or hit the bowling lanes.

There’s also a Mario Kart racing game, Air Hockey, Whack n Win, NBA Hoops, Dragon Punch, redemption games, a photo booth, as well as two thrill-seeking virtual reality rides and a restaurant with crazy shakes, pizzas, cocktails and more.

Michael Schreiber, chief executive officer of Funlab, the same company behind Strike Bowling, Holey Moley Golf Club, Sky Zone and B. Lucky & Sons, says arcades are about 6 | BNE March/April 2020

Drop your smart devices, retro games are back, as Tonya Turner discovers a return to simpler times. “Everyone’s got powerful memories around visits to carnivals and sideshows, so there’s a powerful emotional connection. What we try to do is create experiences where people can socialise and meet friends and family in real life, so it’s a counterpoint to our digital lives. We’re trying to tap into that nostalgia and create a sense of familiarity in what is a fast-moving digital world,” he says.

Open seven days at Toombul Shopping Centre. See www.archiebrothers.com.au NETHERWORLD, FORTITUDE VALLEY With 15 pinball machines, 25 arcade games, a handful of 1990s consoles linked to old TV monitors and more than 100 board games, Netherworld is not your average pub.

Benjamin Nichols is one of the owners of this

popular ‘barcade’ which opened in January 2017 on the corner of a busy intersection in a heritage-listed building. Since then it has drawn a huge following offering up extras such as trivia nights, a full vegan menu with meat options and a large selection of Australian craft beer.

“The re-emergence of the arcade represents people’s want and love to share a space and have a good time together. It’s a great excuse to be social and part of a community. Making a pub an arcade makes perfect sense to us,” Nichols says. Although predominantly an adult-focused venue, kids are welcome with a guardian before 5pm and a family-friendly day is held once a month on Sunday mornings.

Open Tuesday to Sunday at 186 Brunswick Street, Fortitude Valley. See www.netherworldarcade.com

Main image: Zennieshia Butts

etro arcades filled with pinball machines and cabinet games are making a big comeback across Brisbane and, while Gen Xers are revelling in the nostalgic return to games of their childhoods, a new generation is discovering the joys of getting off their ‘smart’ devices to test their skills on the games where it all began.

The new fun parlours range from small barstyle Pinball Alleys to game dens that look like they belong under a Big Top, and there’s a high tech twist as virtual reality games are launching into the mainstream, all aimed at sharing the fun with friends and fellow players.

Taking us back to the past and into the gaming future, these Brisbane arcades are the latest in ‘kidulting’ fun …

The new fun parlours range from small bar-style Pinball Alleys to game dens that look like they belong under a Big Top. Opposite: Archie Brothers Cirque Electriq even has dodgem cars. Left: 1UP Arcade has more than 200 original and replica game machines. Below: Oche for darts

FIND MORE FUN AT …

Oche (darts and bar) is the first Australian venue for a concept that launched in Norway in 2018. Bar sport for sophisticates in an 85-minute time slot, plus a menu created by Ben Williamson (formerly head chef at perennially successful Gerard’s Bistro) paired with cocktails (or choose beer and wine if you must). Located in the historic Old Flour Mill Building, 111 Constance Street, Fortitude Valley. Open seven days.

See www.ochedart.com

1UP ARCADE, MORNINGSIDE Hidden away on the ground level of an industrial park, 1UP Arcade is a dark and cavernous space understood to be Australia’s largest retro arcade with about 220 original and replica game machines. Their bright and colourful lights flash throughout the huge open room where machines are grouped by type. First there are the upright cabinets including the oldest games in the arcade: a 1972 replica Pong and an original Space Invaders from 1972. There’s also an original Donkey Kong from 1982 on which competitions are played, and at least a dozen more. Then there are the pinballs, including a 1977 Evel Knievel game, the racing cabinets, shooting games, fighting games and sit-down cabinets for one or two players.

Owner Stephen Holmes, who opened 1UP almost three years ago, is a walking encyclopedia when it comes to gaming.

He explains it was the popularity of Space Invaders that really got arcades going back in the day, how pinballs evolved to include ramps and extra decks, how Neo Geo allowed multiple games on consoles for the first time, how Street Fighter and Daytona remain amongst the most popular games today, how arcades started disappearing in the 1990s when home games and consoles caught up to arcade hardware, and why he set up as a freeplay arcade with one cost at the door.

“This gives people the opportunity to sample all we have to offer and the ability to try new games without the worry of losing their coin in just a few moments,” he says.

Open Wednesday to Sunday at 230 Lytton Road, Morningside. See www.1uparcade.com.au

FREESPACE VR, FORTITUDE VALLEY Creating an arcade atmosphere without any of the traditional games, machines, lights and music that come with them might have been too big a challenge for some. Not Nick Wallace.

His virtual reality arcade, a short walk up the road from Netherworld, is a grungy and cosy space with comfy couches where friends can watch each other make strange movements in the air as they engage in virtual worlds. That’s if they’re not hooked up to one of the other headsets in a multi-player game, making the same strange movements as they fly through the air between city buildings, fight zombies, test their fear of heights or enter an underwater world.

In the 50 VR games on offer, including shooting games, horror experiences, dance and rhythm games, escape rooms, puzzles and other experiences, your sense of vision overrides reality and logic to make you believe you’re experiencing what you’re seeing with the resulting sweaty palms, increased heart rate and all.

Wallace opened Brisbane’s first and only full virtual reality arcade in April 2018 after working as a pilot for almost 10 years.

“I was feeling like I needed a break but wasn’t quite sure what I wanted to be doing,” he says. After visiting a virtual reality arcade in Sydney and discovering there was no such thing in Brisbane, he decided to start his own.

“We try to cater for everyone, from the more hard core gamers to those who would never call themselves a gamer,” Nick says.

Pincadia (pinball machines and arcade games) has some of the top player rated pinball machines, as well as a bar and diner-style menu, and hosts a women’s pinball league every fortnight. Located in a heritage building across the road from the Gabba. Open Tuesday to Sunday at 14 Logan Road, Woolloongabba. See www.pincadia.com Pinball Haus (pinball machines) is a haunt for pinball wizards with occasional pinball and pizza or pie events. Open Wednesday to Sunday at 36 Baxter Street, Fortitude Valley.

See www.facebook.com/pinballhaus/ Holey Moley Golf Club (putt-putt and karaoke) is open seven days at Wintergarden, Queen Street Mall, city.

See www.holeymoley.com.au B. Lucky & Sons (arcade and bar) offers arcade games similar to Archie Brothers Cirque Electriq, see opposite page.

Open seven days at TC Beirne Building, 315 Brunswick Street, Fortitude Valley.

See www.luckyandsons.com.au

Open Wednesday to Sunday at 295 St Pauls Terrace, Fortitude Valley. See www.freespacevr.com.au BNE March/April 2020 | 7

BRISBANE INSIDER

New life for past

fashion

As textile waste piles up in massive proportions a festival event turns the spotlight on women who aim to turn the tide, writes Brooke Falvey

B

esides underwear and shoes, Jane Milburn doesn’t recall the last piece of clothing she bought that was brand new.

“I’ve stopped buying almost any second-hand pieces too; I don’t envisage that I’ll buy much for the rest of my innings,” says the agricultural scientist, slow clothing pioneer and Churchill Fellow.

Slow and sustainable fashion isn’t just a passion for Milburn it is a way of life that began when she was a child growing up on a sheep farm in New Zealand where her mother and grandmother would sew, stitch and mend pieces rather than throw them away.

Keen to return to her roots and explore creative, sustainable, affordable and ethical ways of dressing Milburn established the website Textile Beat in 2013. The following year she upcycled her own clothing and taught others to do the same – every single day for a year – a project that led to the publication of her book, Slow Clothing: finding meaning in what we wear.

Now Milburn will share her passion when she joins another Brisbane fashion pioneer, Lydia Pearson, for the panel discussion ‘A Little Green Dress’ at this year’s WOW Festival, where she also will host a workshop focused on breathing new life into old t-shirts.

“With global supply chains pumping out 80 billion garments each year, most people have lost sight of where and how things are made, and what from, but we are starting to wake up to what this means for ourselves, and our environment,” Milburn says.

In 2017, ABC’s War on Waste program reported 6000kg of clothing and textiles go to landfill every 10 minutes in Australia.

“Cheap synthetic fibres and modern-day slavery means we are buying two to four times more clothes than we did two decades ago and we’ve lost the skills and knowledge about how to make, mend, care for and upcycle our clothes.”

But the tide is turning. “We’re going full circle now and handmade is becoming high status because it’s not so readily available, it’s not factory bought and it is a one-off. It makes it more meaningful and you look after it,” she says.

Milburn upcycled the silk dress she is wearing in the picture on this page from five spent garments. “I recreated them into something that suits me. It’s one of my favourite pieces. I’m always adapting everything; chopping up stuff, but I’m not expecting everyone to do that.”

Instead, Milburn suggests people start by making more conscious decisions when shopping. “Buy something that you’re going to get at least 30, if not 100, wears out of and that will last the distance.

“You can also revive vintage or second-hand clothes with styling, it doesn’t have to be sewing, and look for natural fibres, especially anything made locally as it gives a sense of province so you’ll feel more attached to it.”

She also recommends the app ‘Good On You’, which rates clothing brands for their impact on the environment, labour rights and animal protection.

“We need to buy less and wear it for longer if we want to minimise our footprint on the world.”

‘A Little Green Dress’ is one of the ‘Conversations on Sunday’ events included in the WOW Festival program, on 3-5 April at Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm. For details see www.wowaustralia.com.au 8 | BNE March/April 2020

Image: Robin McConchie

What you can do Not buying new is a challenge but you don’t have to look far for inspiration.

Here are two places to start …

SWOP CLOTHING EXCHANGE, WEST END More than 65,000 pieces of clothing passed through SWOP Clothing Exchange last year as people shunned ‘fast fashion’ in favour of ‘past fashion’.

SWOP founders Brigid Gordon and Beth Wicks opened their first boutique in Brisbane’s West End with the founding principles of affordability, community, inclusivity, and anti-waste “which remains at the centre of everything we do today,” says Gordon, and they have since opened boutiques in Melbourne (Collingwood) and Sydney (Newtown).

Stock for all three boutiques comes entirely from customers, with many able to buy something else without handing over any money.

“We offer payment for clothing with our buy, sell, trade model. Any items accepted for resale are priced, and from that resale price we offer payment of 25 per cent cash or 50 per cent store credit,” says Gordon.

Another of SWOP’s secrets to success is their carefully curated stock. “Our buyers hand pick every single piece that we sell, striving to stock a range of on-trend and vintage clothing and accessories for all bodies,” she says.

“We want our stores to be full of fantastic quality items that will be treasured for years to come.”

And that’s not all the pair are doing to contribute to the circular economy. Last year they opened their own op shop called OPY where 100 per cent of profits are given to charity, so far raising a healthy $10,000 assisting a variety of organisations from refugee and community help centres to wildlife conservation. All clothing items sold at OPY are under $12.50 and donated by customers at SWOP. Find Swop at 161 Boundary Street, West End and www.swop.net.au

BLOGGER HANNAH KLOSE, NEVER EVER PAY RETAIL Despite failing home economics in high school, Hannah Klose enjoys getting behind the sewing machine to upcycle her op shop finds.

“Some garments just need a nip and a tuck and they’re good to go again but I’ve also tried simple DIY projects; turning men’s shirts into dresses and off the shoulder tops. I wish my teacher could see me now,” says the popular Brisbane blogger who has more than 25,000 followers on Instagram and an online op shop on her website.

With the mantra ‘buy nothing new’ Klose proudly admits 99 per cent of her wardrobe is pre-loved, a trait she picked up from her parents.

“My parents are op shop obsessed and had us thrifting at the local tip when we were kids. I love the thrill of the chase and op shopping is like a giant treasure hunt,” she says.

For six years Klose has been sharing her finds online under her aptly named brand ‘Never Ever Pay Retail’, helping inspire change and shake off the stigma surrounding pre-loved clothes with a personal style she describes as “second-hand meets street”.

“Fashion is cyclical so you can usually find a vintage version of something that’s on trend right now at the op shops; there’s plenty of animal print, linen pieces, statement belts and two-piece suits out there which I’m loving!”

She recommends first-time thrifters go with a game plan of looks they’d like to create for less.

“Keep an op shop wishlist on your phone so you stay on track. Shop every rack from kids, to plus size and menswear and try everything on. I’d definitely take a wing woman too because sometimes you need a bit of feedback.”

Find more tips at www.nevereverpayretail.com.au/ and follow Klose @nevereverpayretail

MODERN MENDING

BY ERIN LEWIS-FITZGERALD Mending is trending and the author has created a comprehensive guide to mending clothes that combines creativity and sustainability, sharing step-bystep instructions for a range of techniques to bring new life to old clothes.

Modern Mending is out now, a new release from Affirm Press.

STYLE

DRESSED for SUCCESS Fallow coat $499, Candice jumpsuit $229

Kirsten knit dress $189, Laia leather croc belt $79

She wears Bexley coat $499, Lauren Eco suit trousers $199, Hail top $149 He wears New Hopkins wool suit jacket $549 and trousers $249, Uxbridge check shirt $149

Shiba blouse $189, Eva knit $149, Gigi leather skirt $399

She wears Lola Eco check blazer $349, Sally animal print skirt $229, Ursula scarf $129, Dana leather belt $69 He wears Blake wool blend blazer $349, Tommy Waffle crew knit $149, stretch charcoal striped trousers $169

Lucas shawl neck cardigan $169, Noah turtleneck knit $149, stretch skinny fit chinos $149

F

ormal dress codes now rarely apply – CEOs are often seen not wearing ties and, perhaps the last bastion of boring office attire, financial services firms, have relaxed their rules but that doesn’t mean that what you wear won’t impact your climb up the corporate ladder. Stylists and recruitment executives agree that how you dress for work is as much about personal branding as it is about corporate image and apparently the old adage ”dress for the job you want, not the job you have” still applies. Like it or not, first impressions count and, according to psychologists, they are made in a mere seven seconds. But beyond its influence on how others see you, one recent study suggests the way you dress also impacts how you think. Dressing professionally, it found, increased abstract thinking, a key to creativity and ‘seeing the bigger picture’. Other studies found what you wear can affect performance. Here, Oxford shows the way with co-ordinates that navigate everything from ‘Business Formal’ to ‘Smart Casual’ with a level of creative flair that still shows you mean business.

All fashion by Oxford, Level 2, Domestic Terminal, near Gate 23.

See more of the new collection at www.oxfordshop.com.au BNE March/April 2020 | 11

ESCAPE

Tokyo

TOP 10

It’s impossible to know Tokyo after just one visit but you can get a snapshot of its best bits, from skyscrapers to serene mountain bliss, from this list of a few of our favourite things ... and it’s easier than ever to get there with Virgin Australia’s new non-stop flights to Haneda International Airport

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hile people are shunning crowds everywhere else, there’s one place where the crowd IS the experience. It’s not called Shibuya Scramble for nothing – the pedestrian crossing at Shibuya in Tokyo is the busiest in the world where a reported 2500 people cross every 3.3 minutes of the day – and now there is a 47-level-high building named after it. Shibuya Scramble Square opened last November and rises 230 metres to an observation deck on the roof with only glass barriers between you and the majestic view across Tokyo, from the scramble crossing below to Mount Fuji.

But beyond the famous crossing, there are other reasons to start a Tokyo tour from here with an impressive fashion and arts scene, quaint alleyways dotted with shops, cafés, hip bars, great restaurants and more.

SHIBUYA A shopping hub for fashionistas, creators and designers, the streets of Shibuya continue to be trend-setting. The iconic building of Shibuya109 is a mecca for the young while Shibuya Hilaria and Seibu are modern complexes for sophisticated fashion shopping and dining.

Hachiko Statue is a popular meeting point, a memorial to the heart-warming story of the loyal dog that returned to the same spot every day for nine years to wait for his owner after he had died suddenly (retold in the film Hachi starring Richard Gere).

In the narrow streets off the Shibuya crossing, Center-Gai is the central hub for youth culture. Throughout the day, hordes of young people flock here in search of the latest in fashion and music.

LITTLE BROOKLYN – DAIKANYAMA In contrast, the neighbourhood of Daikanyama is often described as a “Little Brooklyn” a haven of brewpubs, brunch spots, gourmet delis, designer fashion and luxury accessories stores, and galleries in a network of backstreets. Look for the large green sunflower sculpture about a minute’s walk from the station for a good Insta-pic, then head off in search of Tsutaya Books, Caffè Michelangelo and your own discoveries. By the way don’t expect anything to open before 10am but they will be open late into the night.

EAT OUT Besides sushi, the one thing you have to eat in Tokyo is dumplings. Ginza Tenryu is often called one of the Big Three when it comes to jumbo-sized dumplings.

Shinjuku Kakekomi Gyoza is open 24 hours a day in the heart of Kabuki-cho, Shinjuku’s entertainment district, right next to the Godzilla head on top of the Shinjuku Toho Building. Next to savoring gyoza, you’ll get a vivid taste of izakaya (Japanese pub) culture here!

Gyoza no Osama, meaning ‘the king of dumplings’, is close to Asakusa’s Senso-ji Temple and has been open since 1954, charming both tourists and locals from its small space in an alley left of the busy Nakamise-dori street which is the approach to Senso-ji Temple. To find it look out for the yellow signboard outside.

Nicolai Bergmann Nomu Café is quite a different mood, opened by world-class Danish horticultural decorator Nicolai Bergmann. Located near Omotesando Station its calm atmosphere is a striking contrast to the surrounding area and when you walk through the entrance, it feels like stepping into a secret garden. The café is attached to the shop filled with flowers and greenery and flower arrangements even beneath the café’s glass table tops. Designed by Bergmann himself, and serving light-food dishes.

Ebisu Yokocho is just a two-minute walk from the east exit of Ebisu Station and the place to mingle with the young after work crowd who make this one of the busiest and liveliest spots in the city at night. It has been repurposed from an old shopping arcade to recreate the atmosphere of the ‘yokocho’ or back alleys and narrow lanes of the post war era. There are about 20 stores featuring oden, yakitori, yakiniku, Chinese cuisine, Western-style bars and more.

Shibuya Scramble BNE March/April 2020 | 13

ESCAPE

DRINK UP Tokyo is a city of skyscrapers so a visit to a rooftop bar has to be on top of the to-do list.

Shinjuku Beer Garden on top of the Lumine department store is another world of cold beers and barbecue, or wine and dine with a touch of glamour in a glamping tent, available in prebooked food and drink packages.

Rooftop Botanical Beer Garden at Tokyo Afrodite offers a menu of organic health-conscious, low-carb dishes rich in vitamins and protein – the most popular drink is the colour-changing butterfly pea lemonade.

Takao Beer Mount is a train ride away from the skyscrapers but on a clear day you can see the Tokyo Skytree from the highest beer garden in Tokyo. At 500 metres above sea level you can hike up a thirst on the way there or catch the cable car up. It’s open only in summer from June to October and operates an all-youcan-eat and drink system over 90-minute intervals with a side of mountain views from the terrace or garden.

SWEET TREATS Asakusa, alongside the Sumida River, is home to some of Tokyo’s most popular attractions such as the towering Tokyo Skytree, historical sites such as the Asakusa Shrine and the modern Sumida Hokusai Museum dedicated to the life and artwork of the Ukiyo-e woodblock print master, Katsushika Hokusai (known for his work The Great Wave). But it’s also a centre for a very different kind of ‘art’.

Amezaiku is a unique Japanese art that originated around the 8th century in which heated candy is cut, pulled and crafted by hand into various shapes. See these candied sculptures in the making at Ameshin store in Tokyo Solamachi underneath Tokyo Skytree, or visit Ameshin’s branch to attend a workshop and make your own!

Umezono Kissa dessert café offers classic Japanese desserts, and their most popular is ‘Awa-zenzai’ – a ‘bubbly’ sticky rice-cake and sweet red bean paste dolloped on top. This sweet dessert has been on their menu since they first opened – in 1854!

Asakusa’s oldest Ningyo-yaki store, called Kimuraya, sells small ‘doll’ cakes filled with red bean paste, baked in special moulds to create cute shapes and visitors can watch the process.

Asakusa Taiyaki Guraku is a favourite for its pastries but not all of them are sweet – spicy curry and bacon and egg are a few savoury hits on the menu! Learn to bake traditional Taiyaki and experiment with your own fillings at special cooking classes (advance bookings required).

A small bakery called Courage gives regular ‘An-pan’ (red bean buns) their own twist by adding fresh whipped cream to freshly baked buns filled with red bean paste, and they have become an Insta-hit because each is marked with a hot branding iron with the kanji symbol for Asakusa!

TIME OUT Tokyo may not be known for its waterways but they once were the lifeblood of the city, bustling with boats ferrying people and goods through the city during the Edo period (1603-1867). Today, new developments on Tokyo Bay and along the city’s waterfront pay homage to this history and are fast becoming some of the city’s most lively neighbourhoods.

The Harumi waterfront district of Tokyo, known for great views over the lower reaches of the Sumida River, will host visiting international athletes during the Olympic Games before being renovated as part of a new residential development.

But for now, visitors can explore the historic waterways a number of ways, year round.

14 | BNE March/April 2020

Waterways The ‘Yakatabune’ Pleasure Boat combines karaoke with a feast of traditional Japanese food including sushi and tempura, and a view of the big city lights by night.

Explore remnants of the Edo period at the Hama-rikyu Gardens right by the Imperial Palace. During the days of Edo this was the site of Edo Castle and the seat of the Tokugawa Shogun. Surrounded by an intricate system of moats, the castle was impenetrable. Today, it’s a popular spot for renting a boat to row a section of the Chidorigafuchi Moat, beautiful but very busy during cherry blossom season with trees flanking the water on both sides and petals carpeting the water as the blossoms fall.

River cruises operating along the Sumida, Kanda and Nihonbashi rivers are a relaxing way to take in the sights of the city, old and new.

Forests Tranquil forests, sacred mountains, deep gorges with rushing rivers and waterfalls are not usually associated with Japan’s neon capital Tokyo, but the vast Tama region covering Tokyo’s western side, just 90 minutes from the centre of the bustling city, offers just that and more.

If you haven’t tried Forest Therapy, Okutama is the place to start – immersing yourself in the beauty and tranquility of the trees is said to reduce stress, lower blood pressure and improve general well-being. ‘Forest therapists’ can guide you along a selection of available therapy roads and you can also do yoga in the woods, take relaxing classes such as pottery or making soba noodles, or just bask in the sunlight filtering through trees. The Tama area also boasts many waterfalls, including Hossawa Falls in the Okutama area, which is ranked as one of the top 100 waterfalls in Japan.

Mountains Mt Mitake (929 metres above sea level) is up the top of the list of unspoilt hiking spots in the area and at the peak sits Musashi-Mitake Shrine, Japan’s centre for the ancient tradition of mountain worship, founded back in 91BC and renowned as one of the most mystical places in the Kanto region.

The mountains also help provide mental focus for students at a secluded Ninja Training Camp at Akiruno in West Tama where part of the workshop heads into the woods to learn the true art of From top, opposite page: Nicolai Bergmann Nomu Café, designed by the survival with ninjutsu. floral decorator, has a Scandi-smart style; tasting Taiyaki; look for the Tama also has plenty of onsen to choose from for a relaxing soak sunflower to start your exploration of Daikanyama; Amezaiku looks like in an outdoor hot spring bath after a day of adventure. a glass sculpture but it’s candy – and you can make it; glamp out without leaving town at the Shinjuku rooftop Beer Garden on top of the Lumine Karuizawa is about an hour by the Shinkansen bullet train tower. This page, from top: take a river cruise to see a different side of the from Tokyo and its location in the highlands, surrounded by city or row a boat around the Chidorigafuchi Moat. verdant greenery, makes it a cool and pleasant respite from the city in summer, while in autumn the views are a mass of bronze and golden maple leaves and in winter it’s close to the ski playground of Nagano.

WHERE TO STAY

Images: Shutterstock/eamesBot/picture cells and Supplied

History Visit the weaving workshop of an award-winning artisan in Hachioji City and try your hand at Tama ori weaving, guided by a master. Delve into history with a visit to the historic town of Hinode-machi, home to many historical buildings including warehouses dating from the late Edo period.

In Ome, visit the 300-year-old Sawanoi sake brewery and its cavernous cellars to learn about the brewing process and how to enjoy sake. Advance bookings are required.

Kawagoe is an historical town about half an hour by train north of Tokyo in Saitama Prefecture, known as Little Edo for its Kurazukuri (clay-walled warehouse-style) buildings lining the main street that are reminiscent of an old town from the Edo Period. Kawagoe Castle and the Kitain Temple hold important clues to the city’s ties to Tokyo (Edo) in the past.

From the pod hotel to robot receptionists Tokyo has it all to choose from for accommodation but for families looking for convenience the Apartment Hotel Mimaru is close to public transport, has a kitchenette in rooms which can accommodate from four up to 10 people with a separate bathroom. Front-ofhouse staff speak English and a smart phone in each room has ‘Bebot’, a chatbot app that acts as a hotel concierge and guide for use in and outside the hotel, even able to make restaurant bookings.

Meanwhile kids will love the new Pokemon Rooms at Apartment Hotel Mimaru’s Ueno East and Hatchabori locations, decorated with the iconic characters top to bottom and the crockery too, and there’s a special gift for guests who stay in these rooms.

For more inspiration for Tokyo travel see www.gotokyo.org/en and for the Tama region see www.tamashima.tokyo/en/

Virgin Australia launches a new non-stop service between Brisbane and Tokyo’s Haneda International Airport from 29 March. See www.virginaustralia.com BNE March/April 2020 | 15

COVER STORY

After the fires Regions from Queensland’s Scenic Rim to South Australia’s Kangaroo Island are bouncing back after a helluva summer, but more visitors are key to their recovery HISTORIC BINNA BURRA LODGE, occupying a unique position in Lamington National Park, was one of the first casualties of the firestorm that hit Australia over summer but it’s also been held up as a leader in the recovery. The fires were devastating for the lodge, wiping out its original buildings and scorching its surrounds, forcing it to stand down most of its staff, but they have been inundated with offers of help from the community, its supporters have rallied to raise more than $100,000 in crowdfunding and they are flocking to its makeshift Headmaster’s Café which opened at an old school premises in Beechmont in January.

According to researchers from Griffith Institute for Tourism, the positive response to their recovery is a lesson for other tourism operators.

By keeping their connection with friends and followers in the aftermath of the fire, launching #BringBackBinnaBurra and using social media posts and newsletter updates of every step of the recovery they will minimise long-term effects on the visitor economy.

Meanwhile it appears that the #HolidayHereThisYear campaign initiated by Tourism Australia and offshoots from state bodies, such as #bookthemout and #LoveNSW, have resonated around the country with operators in affected regions reporting that the phones have started ringing again with more enquiries and bookings.

Others too have thrown their support behind areas hardest hit.

For example, QantasLink has announced it will double its flights between Adelaide and Kangaroo Island from July; the Caravan Industry Association of Australia has launched its Keep On Camping website with up-to-date information about parks to encourage travellers to return to affected regions; and Australian Wildlife Journeys is listing

voluntourism Bushfire Recovery Wildlife projects planned for July and August on its website.

But there’s still a way to go yet as the tourism industry faces huge losses this year, and not only businesses directly affected by bushfires.

One hotel owner in Tamborine Mountain told the ABC recently that he was open for business but had few bookings since before Christmas.

“It is really beautiful up here. With the rain it’s really green, waterfalls are flowing and are at their most spectacular. Please come up here,” he implored viewers.

It’s a message echoed in other regions. Craig Wickham, managing director of tour operator Exceptional Kangaroo Island, estimates he’s lost almost half a million dollars in revenue due to cancellations either during the fires or from guests fearing that the experience would not be what they had dreamed of.

“There’s still an area of 2500 square kilometres that is unburned and even parts of the island like Snellings Beach and Western River Cove, which did burn, are open for business. Seal Bay is open for the sea-lion experience and there are 18 conservation parks unaffected with lots of wildlife habitat protected and 200km of coastline untouched.

“Just by coming people are helping. Having guests back into the community reintroduces a sense of normalcy, which is so important after a fire,” Wickham says.

It can also quickly help operators turn their business around. In December Shane McLaughlin, owner of Hillbilly Cider at Bilpin in the Blue Mountains, west of Sydney, was fighting fires literally at his new cellar door – one that had taken the previous six months to build – their main road was closed, his family had evacuated to a safer place and, with help from friends, he managed to save the building from burning down. In January he had a record month. “People from far and wide were coming to spend money in Bilpin post fires. We found it incredibly moving that people would offer support in this way,” he says, and expects to reopen his repaired cellar door this month.

While there are dozens of examples of places to go and things to do to help the recovery, here are just a few to start you on your journey...

View of the Scenic Rim from Spicers Peak, Queensland 16 | BNE March/April 2020

Holiday

here this year

The best way to help regions recovering from fires is to go visit and the inspiration starts here …

QUEENSLAND

When people come to visit they give us spirit, it doesn’t just inject money, it injects vitality, and that’s why we want them.

Liz Mitchell, owner, Snowy River Cycling, East Gippsland, Vic

WALK THE SCENIC RIM TRAIL It’s ironic that fire has become integral to head chef Ash Martin’s cooking at Homage, the acclaimed restaurant at Spicers Hidden Vale in South East Queensland’s high country. When the homestead, and its kitchen, burnt down – not from bushfires but from an accidental fire – almost two years ago Martin and his squad decamped to the barn where Homage had been operating (deliciously so) until the opening of the rebuilt homestead last month. The outdoor coal-fired ‘kitchen’ has been retained and dinner here is a welcome treat before the 5-day Scenic Rim Trail walk begins in earnest – a seasonal walk available this year from April until November.

The trail traverses the Main Range National Park, part of the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area, from Mt Mistake to Cunningham’s Gap, and is a new extension to the 2-day walk already offered on a different section of trail from Spicers Peak Lodge – die-hards can even combine the two. History, wildlife and discovery are all part of the itinerary on the daily guided walks which are easy to moderate and cover distances up to about 18km each day. Meals and accommodation (in the relaxed luxury of ‘glamping’ tents and purpose-built eco cabins) are provided. For details see www.spicersretreats.com/scenic-rim-trail/ Spicers Hidden Vale and Grandchester are just over an hour’s drive south west of Brisbane

VICTORIA DRIVE THE SOUTH EAST COAST Gippsland has flown under the radar for a very long time according to Liz Mitchell, owner of Snowy River Cycling, which provides services and equipment for self-guided tours and hosts fully guided tours from Orbost along the East Gippsland Rail Trail. The physical beauty of the area is what made Mitchell and her husband settle there 20 years ago.

“East Gippsland has this unique environment where it’s bordered by the ocean and by some of the highest mountains in Australia up on the alpine area, and in between there’s an extraordinary array of landscapes in a very compact area, from mountains and temperate rainforest to coastal waterways, which is largely unknown. The people here are very genuine and very friendly, we’re not a hardened tourism area, we’ve got this amazing natural landscape that we love and we want to welcome people to it,” she says.

The Scenic Rim is such a spectacular region, with World Heritage-listed Gondwana rainforests, quaint villages and fabulous local produce. I grew up nearby and have always loved the area for its natural beauty and native wildlife – I’d love to see more Australians discover it.

Jude Turner, founder, Spicers Retreats BNE March/April 2020 | 17

COVER STORY

Mitchell’s advice to new visitors is to see the forests, get out on to the lakes and into the waterways by kayak, canoe or boat tours to see the wildlife and explore the natural environment, get on a bike, and visit the small towns like Buchan, known for its caves, and Bruthen, Lindenow and Paynesville where food and wine producers are just emerging. Mallacoota, which was in the line of the summer fires, is known by the locals for its seafood.

“Most of the fire stayed in the mountains and in the mountain foothills but the coastal corridor between Bairnsdale, Loch Spot and 90 Mile Beach, Nicholson, Metung, Lakes Entrance and Orbost was not affected,” says Mitchell and her final tip for visitors is one of her own favourites: end a day of touring with a beer on the veranda of the Marlo Pub at sunset.

Viletta Porcini, Mylor, SA

EAST GIPPSLAND WILDLIFE JOURNEY This four-day, small group tour for a maximum of eight people only is an easy introduction to East Gippsland’s lush rainforests, coastal heathlands, pristine beaches and waterways, spotting birds and wildlife along the way including echidnas on Raymond Island. There’s a chance to lend a helping hand, too, spending a short time on a remote beach to remove debris and disused fishing nets and help prevent injury to local marine life. The tour supports towns such as Orbost and Lakes Entrance, staying in charming lodge-style, owner-operated boutique accommodation and ventures out to regions that have not been impacted by fires. Operated

by Echidna Walkabout Nature Tours until 31 May. For details see www.australianwildlifejourneys.com Jetstar, Qantas, Tigerair and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Melbourne daily

SOUTH AUSTRALIA EAST END EXPLORER, KANGAROO ISLAND While some popular sights on Kangaroo Island such as Admiral’s Arch, Remarkable Rocks and Hudson Bay Sanctuary may be off limits for now while bushfire recovery continues, there is plenty more still to enjoy including the sea lions at Seal Bay, the secret beach at Stokes Bay, wineries, galleries, beaches, look-outs, hikes, dolphin swims, the dunes at Little Sahara, 4WD tours, quad-biking and more.

On the East End Explorer day tour for example, limestone cliffs, white sandy beaches, ice-age dunes, rolling hills and peaceful lagoons all come into view around the Dudley Peninsula, Pennington Bay and the south coast, which are the focus of this tour. Pelican Lagoon, Baudin Conservation Park and a picnic of local produce at a winery are included. Hosted by Exceptional Kangaroo Island. For details see www.australianwildlifejourneys.com and find more tours at www.exceptionalkangarooisland.com

The Summertown Aristologist, Summertown, SA

GATEWAY TO THE HILLS AND GOOD FOOD Stirling is the gateway to the Adelaide Hills and just 20 minutes from Adelaide. Just a walk along the main street, particularly in autumn, is picturesque, and like most of the villages in the Hills, you don’t have to go far for good food. Hotels, for a start, serve a cut above pub food – the Dining Room at the Stirling Hotel and the Crafers Hotel are standouts.

Off the beaten track, small spaces The Summertown Aristologist with its set share menu and Mylor’s Viletta Porcini which has a wait list for its intimate dining experiences in its lost-in-the-forest-type location are worth the effort of a bit of advance planning.

Jetstar, Qantas and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Adelaide. QantasLink and Rex fly between Adelaide and Kangaroo Island

An area of 2500 square kilometres [on Kangaroo Island] is unburned. There are 18 conservation parks unaffected with lots of wildlife habitat protected.

Craig Wickham, managing director, Exceptional Kangaroo Island

18 | BNE March/April 2020

You need to look hard to find burned vines now because everything has greened up since the rain; the vines are reshooting, there are green hills all around. You wouldn’t even notice the fire has been through.

Simon Tolley, owner, Simon Tolley Wines, Adelaide Hills

WINE TOURING FROM THE ADELAIDE HILLS

STAY OFF THE GRID

After fire swept through his vineyard at Woodside in the Adelaide Hills at New Year Simon Tolley says now, “you’d need to look hard to find burned vines because everything has greened up, vines are re-shooting, mid-rows are green and there’s green hills all around” after recent rains. Tolley still has a long road of recovery ahead to rebuild his vineyard but, surprisingly, his on-site luxury accommodation, Simon Tolley Lodge, survived unscathed as did the vines immediately in view.

The five-bedroom house is a wine lovers’ haven, able to accommodate from four to 10 adults in self-contained bliss with several vineyards within walking distance or a few kilometres down the road, including Murdoch Hill, Artwine, Bird in Hand and Petaluma, while McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley are less than an hour away for day trips. On the way back call into Woodside Cheese Wrights for the perfect accompaniment to your own wine tasting. See www.simontolleylodge.com.au There are 50 cellar doors, plus craft breweries, cider makers and small batch distilleries in the Adelaide Hills, so embrace your inner explorer and drive the scenic and windy routes between Hahndorf and Lobethal. Simply search Adelaide Hills wineries for the map or see www.adelaidehills.org.au for a list.

You may not be the only ones staying on the edge of the Capertree Valley canyon but it will feel like it in a Bubbletent, one of only three, each discreetly out of sight of the other on a 400-hectare working farm between the Blue Mountains National Park and the Wollemi National Park, north west of Sydney. The inflatable Bubbletent overlooks the second biggest canyon in the world (by width) serving up some spectacular scenery, including the stars at night, which can be viewed through the telescope provided. There’s a wood-fire heated bath outside, some cosy amenities, but take your own food and drink, including water, and hire an SUV to get there as it’s a rugged track to the front ‘door’. For details see www.bubbletentaustralia.com

Jetstar, Qantas and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Adelaide daily

NEW SOUTH WALES

Images: Main, previous page, Tourism and Events Queensland.

Left page top, SA Tourism Commission

SCENIC BLUE MOUNTAINS Known as Sydney’s backyard wilderness, the Blue Mountains is 90 minutes’ drive from the city and home to dramatic landscapes including the famous sandstone formation, the Three Sisters, and it’s a pretty amazing view from the Scenic Cableway, the steepest aerial cable car in the Southern Hemisphere. Then if you want to get a feel for just how steep these cliffs are, step onto the Scenic Railway, the world’s steepest incline passenger railway in the world, and adjust your seat pitch from ‘laidback’ to ‘cliffhanger’ at 64 degrees; or take a walk along the highest skyway in Australia. For details see www.scenicworld.com.au Take the time to explore Leura, Blackheath and the Megalong Valley.

It’s a breathtaking view from the historic Hydro Majestic Hotel at Medlow Bath but even better close up enjoying a Devonshire Tea with scones and apple pie at the Megalong Tea Rooms, Megalong Road. For details see www.megalongtearooms.com.au Communities along Bells Line of Road were hard hit by fires, but local businesses such as award-winning Hillbilly Cider are laying out the welcome mat again. Like Woodside in the Adelaide Hills, recent rain has turned the grass a vibrant green and burnt trees have all shot new growth so, according to Hillbilly’s owner Shane McLaughlin, it’s looking quite beautiful against the backdrop of black tree trunks.

McLaughlin also expects to have his new cellar door open in March.

See www.hillbillycider.com.au

Jetstar, Qantas, Tigerair and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Sydney daily

PICNIC FROM A DIFFERENT ANGLE, SOUTH COAST, NSW For a view of the New South Wales south coast from a different angle try an Outdoor Raw Cliffnic – yes, that’s a picnic while suspended over the Shoalhaven clifftops, with a view of rivers, mountains and beaches – and try to enjoy the locally-sourced wine and picnic without trembling.

According to Outdoor Raw owner Kyle Jones, each booking ends up supporting around 15 to 30 local fire-affected businesses. For details see www.outdoorraw.com.au/cliffnics Fly Corporate flies direct between Brisbane and Wollongong (Shellharbour). Jarvis Bay is about 90 minutes’ drive south.

ON TO THE WATER WITH CAPTAIN SPONGE Perhaps a bit less daunting but also an adventure is a day out on a boat with Brett Weingarth, otherwise known as Captain Sponge, on one of his Magical Oyster Tours. Sponge farms oyster leases in Merimbula and Pambula Lakes and down the Pambula River, and this is a chance to taste Sydney Rock Oysters straight from the water while learning about the local region. See www.magicaloystertours.com.au Qantas, Tigerair and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Canberra. Merimbula is about three hours’ drive south east.

Outdoor Raw Cliffnic, South Coast, NSW

ESCAPE

A TASTE OF KAKADU Discovering unique food dishes is not the only reason to add this festival to your travel wish list, writes Jennifer Johnston

K

akadu is our pantry, a source of natural unprocessed food accessible 365 days a year,” says our guide Jacqueline Cahill as she opens the palm of her hand revealing three small teardrop-shaped objects varying in colour from green to a speckled purple.

“These are Kakadu or green plums and they’re my favourite fruit,” she says at a stop on a bush tucker walk through the Mamukula Wetlands – about 30km from the township of Jabiru and about 250km from Darwin.

Cahill is a ranger in Kakadu National Park but she’s also a Ngombur/Murburkala woman born and raised within the park’s massive 19,804 square kilometres and shares stories of her culture, passing on what she has learnt from her mother to the next generations of her own family as well as visitors to the park.

When she was growing up, foraging walks were a family outing. If they were unable to get into the town of Jabiru for supplies they would head out into the park instead. “Mum would pack some tea, sugar, milk and salt into a pillowcase, together with fishing line and hooks, then we would set out walking along the rivers and creeks to catch fish, gather water yam and freshwater mussels,” she recalls.

These days, a foraging walk with a guide like Cahill is a highlight of the annual Taste of Kakadu festival giving city folk like me a local’s insight to the bush tucker that has sustained Australia’s oldest civilisation for thousands of years … from where to find it to how to eat it to best enjoy the flavours.

However, more than that, the festival is also a chance to join the locals in a 10-day celebration of their country and culture through a shared love of food. The program of events includes ground oven cook-ups, pop-up dinners and canapé cruises on Yellow Water Billabong, with ample opportunity to sample native foods such as crocodile, buffalo and barramundi flavoured with local fruit and bush herbs.

MIX OF OLD AND NEW WAYS ON THE MENU The journey can begin in the heart of town at the landmark Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel – built in the shape of one of the Territory’s most familiar creatures. Executive chef Duane Hartley prepares a special menu for Taste of Kakadu but serves a locallysourced and Indigenous-inspired menu all year round, even to the point of how the 20 | BNE March/April 2020

food is cooked – for example, kangaroo and wallaby is smoked in-house wrapped in pandanus leaves to mimic the traditional method of cooking in the ground.

“We try to mix traditional methods of cookery with new age techniques to best highlight Indigenous food,” says Hartley who works closely with the traditional owners collecting specialist ingredients from country.

“Our rosella and caramel apple crumble has local rosella, we use Kakadu plums in our smoked kangaroo salad, and native lemongrass in the panna cotta.”

At last year’s festival barramundi, tiger prawns, wallaby tail, smoked kangaroo, crocodile terrine and even cocktails were seasoned with ingredients such as finger limes, green ants, Kakadu plums, salt bush and warrigal greens on Hartley’s special menu.

MUST-DO DETOURS Taste of Kakadu is also a chance to explore the park’s natural wonders of rock art, abundant wildlife and rugged landscape.

From May shallow wetlands and billabongs are carpeted with water lilies, which also provide a source of food, from the stems that can be eaten like celery in salads to the seeds that are ground to flour for baking. After the wet season, as the floodplains dry out, animals and birds flock to the waterholes.

During Taste of Kakadu, sunset cruises depart daily from Cooinda on Yellow Water’s wetlands, which is also home to barramundi, saltwater crocs and an astonishing amount of birdlife. As the sun dips below the golden-tinged water canapés of crocodile, barramundi and buffalo are served as an Indigenous guide shares stories about this spectacular ecosystem.

Jabiru is also central to two of Kakadu’s most precious natural art galleries, the World Heritage-listed Nourlangie (Burrungkuy) which includes the Anbangbang rock art gallery, about 30 minutes’ drive to the south and Ubirr, in the shadow of the Arnhem Land escarpment, about 40 minutes north east. Both sites have walking tracks that pass by the well-preserved rock art – an ancient etching of a Tasmanian Tiger at Ubirr dates back 4000 years. And for anyone willing to take the slightly steeper but well-signed climb to the top of the rocky outcrop will be rewarded with stunning views over the Nadab floodplain, particularly at sunset (but bring a torch for the descent).

WHERE TO STAY JABIRU is the centre of festival activity and a good base for further exploration to Ubirr, Nourlangie, Cahills Crossing and Mamukala Wetlands.

The crocodile-shaped MERCURE KAKADU CROCODILE HOTEL (1 Flinders Street, Jabiru) is resortstyle accommodation 15 minutes from Bowali Visitor Centre. All rooms have ensuite bathrooms and there’s an onsite restaurant and bar. See www.kakadutourism.com/accommodation/ ANBINIK KAKADU RESORT, 83 Jabiru Drive, Jabiru offers accommodation from double rooms with shared bathroom facilities to suites and self-contained two-bedroom cabins that can sleep up to five people. There’s a seasonal restaurant and outdoor barbecues on site. See www.anbinik.com.au

NEED TO KNOW • Taste of Kakadu is on 22-31 May 2020. Look out for program details at www.parksaustralia.gov.au/kakadu/taste/ • Purchase a Kakadu visitor Park Pass online before you go or at several locations including the Bowali Visitor Centre within the park.

• A program of guided activities with rangers and traditional owners operates during the dry season from May to September. Information is available from the Bowali Visitor Centre in Jabiru or the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre in Yellow Water.

• Day tours are available from Darwin to Kakadu, or it’s a three-hour drive and rental cars are available from Darwin Airport. Most roads are accessible by 2WD unless otherwise stated.

Jetstar, Qantas and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Darwin.

Ranger Jacqueline Cahill leads a guided walk in Kakadu National Park during Taste of Kakadu Festival which showcases bush tucker in a variety of events including sunset cruises on Yellow Water Billabong – and, yes, there will be crocodiles

Images: NT Tourism/Peter Eve (Yellow Water); Adriana Alvarado (Maguk Waterfall); Graham Freeman (rock art)

While Taste of Kakadu is a showcase for Kakadu plums, star fruit, water lilies, freshwater clams and more, it’s worth allowing extra time to take a detour and explore the seriously beautiful scenery nearby, including rock art and the magic Maguk waterfall and rock pool

BNE March/April 2020 | 21

ESCAPE

WET AND WILD The end of the wet season is just the beginning of the wild show that begins at this Top End safari camp, writes Sue Wallace

22 | BNE March/April 2020

Text published under license from welltravelled.media.

Images: Peter Eve (opposite); Archie Sartracom (top); Emma Pritchett (centre)

I

t’s been called Australia’s answer to Botswana’s Okavango Delta, and as soon as you set foot onto Bamurru Plains you can see why. Located at Swim Creek Station on the edge of the Mary River floodplains, it is just a short distance west of the Kakadu National Park in the Northern Territory.

A dozen dusty buffalo and frisky calves are wandering by our safari-style bungalow as several inquisitive wallabies shade themselves under the lush trees. They have no idea they are being watched – that’s the beauty of these chic rustic lodgings with floor-to-ceiling fine mesh – it lets you see out but no one can see in.

Ever-alert wallabies respond to the slightest noise and female buffalo call their straying young to stay put as we watch well-concealed in one of 10 upmarket bungalows.

This is a special place where nature takes centre stage and guests are immersed in a unique Top End experience and given an opportunity to watch the prolific wildlife and birds in all their glory.

The area is home to one of the largest crocodile populations in the world, and the annual migration of more than 100,000 magpie geese is an extraordinary sight to be seen.

The focus here is on the environment and the longer you stay the more attuned you become to nature. During the wet season almost 100 square kilometres of the station is covered in water, providing a great habitat for baitfish to breed in the shallow waters of the floodplains.

Safari season at Bamurru Plains extends from March to November offering a kaleidoscope of wildlife viewing through the seasons. By road it’s a three-hour drive from Darwin and cars are left near the front gate with staff driving guests the last 20 minutes. The bungalows blend into the landscape and there’s no television, mini bar or even much mobile phone reception here. There is, however, a comfortable bed to sink into with fine linen and a choice of three pillows.

Instead of a television screen the entertainment is nature at its best, gazing straight out to the spectacular views over the floodplains. Inside the timber-floored bungalow there’s an ensuite with a high pressure shower and overhead fans for cooling – air conditioning is available at extra cost if required.

In the main lodge, there’s a long timber table, a lounge area with lots of interesting artefacts and a library of reference books that reveal everything you could want to know about the Top End. There’s also an open bar where guests can help themselves to wines, beer and spirits and a tuckedaway kitchen, where staff work their magic producing outback cuisine with a sophisticated edge.

Outdoors there is a huge veranda with fire pits, open-air pavilions with comfy couches for lounging and an infinity pool for cool-down lazing.

As for music, the bush takes over with a morning chorus of thousands of magpie geese and frogs break into croaky song at night.

Two activities are offered each day with time to chill out in camp – it is a little like Africa but here buffalo replace elephants and wallabies replace impala.

We set off at 4pm for a 4WD safari and sunset drinks on the floodplains where our guide, John, points out unusual flora and birds such as whistling kites and blue-winged kookaburras that are among the 236 species of birds in the area. But the best is yet to come as we sit and watch the blood-red sunset. We spot brolgas dancing in the distance while buffalo wander by and birds of all description take to the skies. On our way back we see agile wallabies and wallaroos grazing contentedly.

Back at camp there’s time for a dip in the pool before an informal fourcourse dinner and wine, while we listen to tales of the Top End and plan our next day.

A rechargeable torch lights our way back to our safari tent and we fall asleep to a symphony of bush noises.

Bamurru Plains is all about isolation and exclusivity and you won’t run into any other tourists apart from those staying at Bamurru Lodge, which is capped at 20 guests at the most.

The morning light wakes us early and we head out on a walk with John, who identifies various plants and trees before we head back for a hearty breakfast and get ready for the next activity, an airboat ride in the nearby floodplains.

Wearing ear muffs, John starts the noisy airboat and we are soon skimming across the floodplain that is home to thousands of magpie geese, plumed whistling duck, egrets, ibis, jabiru and a host of other birds.

It’s an amazing experience watching birds of all shapes and sizes taking flight.

When we stop for morning tea John tells us to listen for the sound of the murder birds. Right on cue we hear a screech.

We soon discover we are not alone and with a splash and a swish of a tail, see a crocodile disappearing under a water lily. Soon John spots another and it is apparent just how many crocodiles inhabit these waters.

The airboat, which is powered by an aircraft-like propeller, easily pushes through the shallows and provides an exhilarating look around the wetlands. We spot wild brumbies grazing on a green pick in the shade and a bush pig in a hurry.

Later, in search of more crocodiles, we head out on the nearby Sampan River which forms the station boundary and is home to one of the largest crocodile populations in the world.

We lose count of how many crocs we spot lazing riverside and in the water. At dinner that night, over steak cooked to perfection and a great red, there’s talk of who saw the biggest crocodile and John entertains us with fishing stories.

The Top End is renowned for its great fishing in coastal floodplains, billabongs and mangrove-fringed tidal rivers that empty into the Arafura Sea. The best time is during the run-off from the beginning of March to the end of April.

This experience in such a remote bush location with excellent guiding lives up to the description “wild bush luxury” and the memories will last a lifetime.

Jetstar, Qantas and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Darwin several times daily BNE March/April 2020 | 23

ESCAPE

FIRST TIMER’S GUIDE TO

WINTON and

THE VISION SPLENDID OUTBACK FILM FESTIVAL

C

alling all movie buffs – there’s no need to spend more than 20 hours in the air to attend Cannes or Sundance Film Festival.

Within three hours you can swap Brisbane for the bush to attend The Vision Splendid Outback Film Festival in Winton, Central Queensland.

Until recently, this town of about 1000 people was best known as the birthplace of Qantas and where Waltzing Matilda was first performed live. That is, until movie directors caught wind of its 50,000-plus square kilometres of vast plains, red dirt and sandstone ranges and turned it into ‘Hollywood of the Outback’.

In recent years Winton has played backdrop to several major film productions, including Nick Cave’s The Proposition, and welcomed the likes of Hollywood stars Guy Pearce and Emily Watson but you don’t need to be a movie star to experience Winton under the spotlight. Each winter, The Vision Splendid Outback Film Festival takes over the town for nine days of film action.

Here’s everything you need to know before you go…

The Royal Theatre

What to do at the festival There’s more to this film festival than turning up, grabbing a bucket of popcorn and settling into a recliner chair in the 100-year-old Royal Theatre – the oldest operating open-air cinema in Australia.

Like all good film festivals, you won’t want to miss the opening night.

Catch one of Australia’s best new films before heading to the North Gregory Hotel to brush shoulders with the who’s who of film stars and creators.

Book a seat at Brisbane Airport’s Breakfast with the Stars to discuss and dissect the selected films with industry special guests. The breakfasts are held daily, with a different guest each day.

Bringing the kids? The festival offers a special movie-themed Kids Club to keep them entertained, from games to arts and craft and teaching them about the outback film industry.

Stay for the Vision Splendid Short Film Competition on the final evening. Catch a selection of short films from emerging filmmakers and cast your vote for your favourite by throwing paper planes in the air.

What to do when you’re not at the festival Films might bring most of the visitors to Winton over festival weekend, but it’s the promise of dinosaurs, opals and Waltzing Matilda that lures the other 100,000 visitors each year.

When you’re not catching a film in the program, head to the Australian Age of Dinosaurs or Lark Quarry for a dinosaur encounter – meet “Banjo” Australia’s largest and most complete carnivorous dinosaur or check out the 3,300 stone footprints dating back 95 million years, from the world’s only recorded dinosaur stampede.

Allow time to visit the Waltzing Matilda Centre – the first museum in the world dedicated to a song – or try your hand at fossicking for local opals at Winton Opal Gems.

Channel your inner Slim Dusty at The Musical Fence located behind the Diamantina Heritage Truck and Machinery Museum. The permanent musical installation is a world first and was used by musician Gotye for a song that features on his Grammy Award-winning album Making Mirrors.

Images: Tourism and Events Queensland

This is one of the best reasons to head outback this winter, writes Rochelle Vaisanen

What to eat and drink It might be the outback, but you can still start your day with a barista-made coffee. Grab a table at the Musical Fence Café for eggs benny, pancakes or a big breakfast, or pick up a toasty or pastry to-go from Balamara Bakery (which, incidentally, accepts Bitcoin for payment too).

For true outback fare – think crumbed steak or chicken schnitzel – pull up a chair at the North Gregory Hotel, Tattersalls Hotel or Australian Hotel for lunch or dinner or for something more than pub grub the Daphne Mayo Dining Room at the North Gregory Hotel serves an à la carte menu focused on fresh and local ingredients, including seafood from the Gulf of Carpentaria and Coral Sea.

Sunrise

Where to stay The good thing about Winton is everything is just a walk away.

If you want to stay in the thick of the action, check in to the North Gregory Hotel where your accommodation comes with a slice of history – not only is this Winton institution nearly 140 years old, but it’s rumoured to be where Banjo Paterson first performed Waltzing Matilda.

Prefer to retire early? Boulder Opal Motor Inn is located at the edge of town – close enough to the action, but far enough to separate yourself from the late-night revellers.

With the town’s population swelling from less than a thousand to over three thousand during the festival and only a handful of hotels to choose from, make sure you secure your accommodation early.

The Vision Splendid Outback Film Festival is on in Winton from 26 June to 4 July 2020. Program details will be released in May but festival passes are available now at www.visionsplendidfilmfest.com For more information about things to do in Winton see www.outbackqueensland.com.au

Lark Quarry

QantasLink flies daily between Brisbane and Longreach where rental cars can be hired at the airport for the two-hour drive to Winton

BNE March/April 2020 | 25

ESCAPE EXTRA

GALLERY OF UNDERWATER ART

S

norkellers and divers in the Whitsundays watch out! That giant coral and oversize sea life you spy underwater may not be real – they are likely to be sculptures in the new underwater ‘gallery’ unveiled off Hayman Island, Hook Island and Langford Spit. The sculptures are the work of six Australian artists and include a four-metre-high single coral polyp, manta rays, a Maori Wrasse and turtle.

Meanwhile further north on the Queensland coast works by international underwater sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor and the Museum of Underwater Art (MOUA) have been installed offshore from Townsville.

Ocean Siren is modelled on 12-year-old Takoda Johnson, a local Wulgurukaba girl, and rises above the water just metres from the Strand on the city’s foreshore. In a light show that’s particularly dazzling at night, the sculpture changes colour as the water temperature changes.

Further out to sea, Coral Greenhouse (pictured here) is a mammoth sculpture garden installed 18 metres below the surface at John Brewer Reef and will be accessible by guided tours from April. The ‘greenhouse’ includes 20 figures, some also modelled on locals, called reef guardians, designed to raise awareness about reef conservation while the structure itself provides a man-made haven for new coral to grow and fish to thrive.

The sculptures are a first for the Great Barrier Reef but deCaires Taylor is a master of underwater art and created Nest, off one of the tiny Gili Islands in Indonesia and Museo Atlantico, Lanzarote in the Canary Islands that attract divers from around the world. More sculptures by deCaires Taylor are planned for locations near Palm Island and Magnetic Island off the north Queensland coast. See www.moua.com.au Jetstar, Qantas and Virgin Australia fly between Brisbane and Townsville several times daily; Jetstar and Virgin Australia fly between Brisbane and Whitsunday Coast

26 | BNE March/April 2020

HOTELS Update

BRISBANE IS COOL Anyone who lives here already knows Brisbane is cool but now the world knows it too as the city has made the top 10 on National Geographic Traveller’s Cool List 2020. The list appears in the March 2020 issue of National Geographic Traveller magazine and actually highlights 20 must-see destinations for the year ahead and Brisbane comes in at #8 on the list, the only Australian city to make the list at all, ahead of Los Angeles (#14) and Rio de Janeiro (#20).

According to the magazine’s editors mega developments, a boom in stylish hotels and hip laneways are giving the Queensland capital an injection of cool. Construction of the $3.6 billion Queen’s Wharf precinct underway, hot on the heels of Howard Smith Wharves opening last year, a spruced up Fortitude Valley and oncegrim laneways buzzing with indie shops and small bars all helped to get it on the list, and travellers seem to agree with its cool cred.

A record number of passengers travelled through Brisbane Airport last year bringing the total to more than 24 million for the first time.

While international passenger numbers grew the most, domestic passenger numbers flew past 17.7 million giving Brisbane Airport the strongest growth amongst Australia’s major gateway airports.

VILLA DE PRANAKORN has just opened in Bangkok’s historic Sam Yot district with luxury facilities including in-house restaurant serving Thai and pan-Asian dishes, poolside and lobby bars and fitness centre.

In what is becoming the norm now, the hotel has abandoned plastic for bamboo or paper packaging, and provides glass water bottles for guests to refill with filtered still drinking water produced onsite.

Villa de Pranakorn is in the neighbourhood of the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Yaowarat, street food stalls, chic cafés and Jay Fai, the city’s first Michelin-starred noodle joint. Everything else worth seeing is within easy reach by train from the Sam Yot MRT subway station just a short walk from the hotel. See www.villadepranakorn.com AirAsia and Thai Airways fly direct between Brisbane and Bangkok several times weekly

QT HOTELS & RESORTS group has devised a digital detox package to encourage guests to put themselves into flight mode and get grounded while staying at their properties. As part of the package, guests hand over their digital devices for a 12-hour break from 7pm to 7am, and indulge in a little self-care instead with the help of a few complimentary wellness treats (including beauty sleep powder, bath brew and a yoga mat). If you want to get social during the detox time there’s a wine and cheese or cocktail bar option in the package too. Available until October 2020 at QT properties in Australia and New Zealand. Search Power Down in promotions at www.qthotelsandresorts.com Air New Zealand, Jetstar, Qantas, Tigerair and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and cities with QT hotels

LANCEMORE CROSSLEY STREET is the latest boutique hotel to open its doors in the heart of Melbourne – you can’t get any closer to the hip laneway culture of the city than this, centrally located between the ‘Paris’ end of Bourke Street, theatre district, restaurants such as Gingerboy, Becco, the legendary Pellegrini’s and Chinatown.

With such stellar eateries in walking distance there is no need for in-house dining, but the rooftop bar (pictured above) offers a brilliant skyline view for pre-show or pre-dinner drinks. Open from 27 March at 51 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne. Bookings are now open at www.lancemore.com.au/crossley-st Jetstar, Qantas, Tigerair and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Melbourne daily BNE March/April 2020 | 27

ESCAPE EXTRA

SYDNEY’S GREAT WALK

New REEF HIDEAWAY

It’s one of the Great Barrier Reef’s most unspoilt islands but chances are it’s been off your bucket list radar ... until now. Wilson Island (below) became home to a new adults-only luxury eco-glamping hideaway this past summer but just months after opening it went into hibernation for a couple of months to allow the annual bird breeding and peak turtle hatching season to continue without interruption.

It reopens for stays from 1 April and it’s a nature-lover’s paradise with little more to do than swim, snorkel and paddle about the pristine waters surrounding this coral cay that lies 72km off the coast of Gladstone and 15km from neighbouring Heron Island.

As part of the Marine National Park that lies within the Southern Great Barrier Reef it is a ‘no touch, no take’ area so fishing, or collecting, are not allowed without a permit. That means that along with birds and turtles, marine life are abundant for snorkellers to view off the beach.

And it’s not going to be trampled by tourists with only nine Reef Safari Tents able to accommodate up to 18 people on the island at any one time, discreetly positioned between the trees so everyone has a beach view. The camp is battery and solar-powered, there’s no plastic of course, and even the glassware is upcycled but this is first class glamping for guests and all meals and island activities are included.

Getting there takes a bit of planning as the only access is by 25-minute boat transfer from Heron Island, which itself is a twohour boat ride from Gladstone (or about 30 minutes by seaplane or helicopter) – all of it weather dependant – but the destination is well worth the journey. See www.wilsonisland.com QantasLink and Virgin Australia (with Alliance Airlines) operate services direct between Brisbane and Gladstone daily

Images: Destination NSW

T

here are some great walks around Sydney Harbour and now they can be linked together for one mammoth Bondi to Manly Walk – or walking die-hards may go full throttle and add on the extra 6km from Bondi to Coogee as well! It’s not for the faint-hearted – the full waterfront walk from Bondi to Manly is 80km, following the harbour foreshore, crossing the Harbour Bridge and The Spit, passing through parks, alongside beaches and atop dramatic cliffs. But the point is to do it in stages, stopping off along the way in local guest houses, and enjoy the views (like sunsets behind the Harbour Bridge from Watson’s Bay), discover more about Sydney’s history, drop into local cafés and discover sites you never knew existed.

For information, itineraries and an interactive map see www.bonditomanly.com

Parsley Bay

Middle Head

Jetstar, Qantas, Tigerair and Virgin Australia fly between Brisbane and Sydney several times daily

28 | BNE March/April 2020

JETSET

food tour

H

ow far would you go for a fab foodie event? The heart of South Australian wine country at McLaren Vale, perhaps? Well pack your overnight bag because Tasting Australia Airlines is about to take off from Brisbane. The Alliance Airlines charter will depart from Brisbane Airport on 4 April, the early morning start softened by a champagne breakfast on board, and return by dinner time on Sunday 5 April.

From Adelaide guests will be whisked straight to Coriole Winery (right) and a long lunch created by the festival’s headline celebrity chef Marco Pierre White, alongside local stars, Africola owner Duncan Welgemoed and Coriole’s own head chef Tom Tilbury.

Next stop is a tour and tasting at d’Arenberg Cube, part winery, part art installation, before returning to Adelaide.

Overnight accommodation is not part of the package but special prices are offered at the Hilton in Victoria Square which is on the doorstep of another festival event, the Town Square, sampling some of Adelaide’s best street-style food from pop-up stalls. Tasting Australia Airlines package is $803.05 per person, not including accommodation.

For full program information and to book the Tasting Australia Airlines package see www.tastingaustralia.com.au

Alliance Airlines will operate the charter flight Brisbane to Adelaide for Tasting Australia

SEE THE OUTBACK AND (MAYBE)

win $1 million It’s not just the pros that can win big at golf. There’s $1 million up for grabs for a hole-in-one at this year’s Queensland Outback Masters – and anyone can play. Plus there are $10,000-prizes for hole-in-one challenges at each of five more outback locations in the lead up to the main game. All you have to do is play at least two out of the five rounds in the series across remote locations in Outback Queensland before fronting up to the final challenge in Longreach. You don’t even have to own golf clubs as they can be hired at each location. Each weekend is full of fun and special events including dinners under the stars. For more information and player pass prices see www.outbackqldmasters.com and mark this countdown to $1 million in your calendar now.

Biloela 20+21 June Blackall 11+12 July Charleville 27+28 June Hughenden 18+19 July Quilpie 4+5 July Longreach 24-26 July Fly Corporate, Rex Airlines and QantasLink fly between Brisbane and Queensland’s outback towns BNE March/April 2020 | 29

TASTE

Sweet dreams are made of this There are plenty who think Jodie Neilsen has a dream job, surrounded by chocolate all day and chief taste tester of mouthwatering flavours in rocky road, caramel lollipops, fruit and nut speckled slabs of ‘bark’ and lots more like you’ve never tasted before, but for Neilsen, owner of New Farm Confectionery, it’s not so much a job as a labour of love that has turned a side hustle into a delicious success.

Neilsen (below) admits she’s always been a sucker for everything sweet and loved baking, even in her childhood, but ‘chocolatier’ had never been on her career list when she was leaving school. Instead it was a plan hatched much later on a balcony, glass of wine in hand, while she was travelling in France.

What started from a market stall and progressed to a small shopfront in New Farm is now housed in a renovated mini warehouse just a suburb away in Newstead that is more than eight times the size of the previous digs, allowing for production, packaging and a small shop all on one site – and already it is being stretched to the limit as Neilsen and her team work almost around the clock to prepare for Easter.

That includes stocking a brand new shop in the recently revamped food and retail precinct on Level 2 of Brisbane Airport’s Domestic Terminal. It’s become our must-stop on the way to the departure gate for a sweet snack to take on board and we don’t mind sharing … here’s what we like about New Farm Confectionery …

How did this sweet journey begin?

I started making confectionery in my kitchen at home just making marshmallows and honeycomb. Initially I was selling them at Eagle Farm markets, moved on to Eat Street Markets and then to our first store in New Farm.

I never dreamed New Farm Confectionery would grow to what it is now, with more than 70 different products, more than 100 stockists, wholesale and corporate clients and a full production kitchen in Newstead.

What attracted you to focus on Parisian-inspired confectionery?

I love French food. Their traditional way of cooking, their love of cheese and mostly their love of elegant sweet dishes. In my travels around France, and particularly in Paris, I found many small confectionery shops that handcraft their products. One store in particular, À la Mère de Famille, which is the oldest chocolate shop in Paris, inspired me with their beautiful stores and delicious products.

How much chocolate do you make?

Generally we’re making about a tonne of chocolate products a month.

In the lead-up to Easter we quadruple production and double our staff numbers to meet demand.

How often do you add new flavours or products?

We always have something new in the works. Our inspiration comes from the ingredients that we work with and the fabulous imaginations of our team. We are currently trialling a product using some beautiful freezedried bananas from an Australian grower. This will be an inspiration for a Banoffee Pie-style product. Testing a new product is a delicious task to have to do!

Any special temptations coming for Easter?

Easter is one of our favourite times of the year to invent and play with our customers’ favourite flavours. We’re working on honeycomb-filled bunnies, caramel-filled eggs, marshmallow-filled eggs and much more.

What has been the best seller at Brisbane Airport so far?

Our biggest seller at the airport is the Chocolate Bark. These are beautiful slabs of chocolate that customers can buy by the weight and mix and match their flavours. All of our favourites at our Newstead store are at the airport. We wouldn’t want anyone to miss out!

Where to next?

So many plans! We are looking at further expansions, international and interstate and we are actively increasing our wholesale footprint interstate right now. In March I am heading off to Singapore to run some cooking classes.

New Farm Confectionery Brisbane Airport is on Level 2, Domestic Terminal, near Gate 25.

Magic

in the air

Dandelion & Driftwood, once a much-loved local café in suburban Hendra, just a click from Brisbane Airport, has now opened in the airport’s International Terminal but it turns out owners Peter and Penny Wolff have been here before.

When the new café opened late last year Peter shared a most romantic story about how he and Penny (right) first met at the terminal – over coffee! True story.

At the time both were working for another legendary Brisbane café as it prepared to open in Brisbane Airport’s brand new International Terminal in 1995. While there was instant chemistry at the time, it didn’t blossom into a partnership until years later when they reconnected and Wolff Coffee Roasters was born.

Now it is one of Brisbane’s most successful coffee families (daughter Xanthe has grown up with the business and spent time herself serving customers), operating from headquarters in Hendra that includes a roastery, coffee pop-up and academy that has seen an estimated 20,000 students from more than 30 countries pass through its doors in the last 10 years. Here’s why they are flocking to learn the Wolff way…

What led you to set up Wolff Coffee Roasters 10 years ago?

There is a Chinese proverb, “If we do not change direction, we are likely to end up where we are headed” so for Penny and myself we wanted to pivot and create a new and expansive business where creative patterns of thinking are nurtured, where collective aspiration is set free, and where people are continually learning how to grow as coffee professionals and lead together.

Portrait photography: Marc Grimwade

Dandelion & Driftwood has a history in the neighbourhood, where did that name come from?

Dandelion represents that magic blow ball that no one can resist wishing upon. With one single breath that magic spreads, being carried away by the wind and the dandelion travels like little parachutes for miles and miles across the earth.

Dandelions are the magic of what is in that cup in your hands that you are drinking and it embodies the delight, the enchantment, the science and the excitement in a magical cup.

Dandelions also symbolise faithfulness and happiness and both are integral to Dandelion & Driftwood. Dandelion characterises the yin of our concept in its subtle softness, delicate notes, refined presence and ability to bloom while Driftwood characterises the yang of our concept in natural formation, sturdy with rugged earthy links and an adventurous outlook.

In what other ways are you contributing to those local communities?

Social responsibility and giving back to our farmers’ communities is integral to our business and we assist each in many different ways.

For example, it could be a water tank in Kenya, school resources and backpacks for a local school in Costa Rica that borders a coffee farm we purchase from (and where many of the coffee cherry pickers’ children would attend), to supplying irrigation solutions in El Salvador.

What is your favourite part of the process of creating a coffee?

It’s the collaboration between the coffee producer and us as the roaster!

Multi-origin and multi-varietal blending is what Wolff Coffee Roasters is best known for, crafting blends to a house style. Our Edelweiss Blend is the original and most powerful expression of this philosophy, which results in a consistent style and quality across each harvest year.

How often do you introduce a new blend?

We look to seasons of nature and release four seasonal blends as well as two occasional blends, being Oktoberfest and Christmas Pudding.

What are you serving at Brisbane Airport?

Where does your coffee come from?

We offer two blends: Dandelion Blend is a sweet and jammy fruit-laden chocolate delight and Driftwood Blend is a rich dark chocolate, dried apricots, molasses and hint of earthiness to the finish. Both of these blends are exclusive to Dandelion & Driftwood.

Our key producing partners are in Kenya, El Salvador, Mexico, Guatemala, Costa Rica, Panama and Papua New Guinea.

Dandelion & Driftwood is on the Village Green on Level 3 at International Terminal, near Gate 80.

BNE March/April 2020 | 31

WHAT’S ON

Queensland Ballet

TURNS

60

It may be a senior citizen in the arts world but it is going through its most ambitious growth phase yet

W

hen the Lisner Ballet took to the stage in Brisbane for its first performance as a company in April 1960 it was a triumph – as much for founder Charles Lisner’s dogged determination as it was for any creative achievement. He had arrived in the city almost seven years earlier at age 25, with empty pockets and a vision to build Brisbane’s first professional ballet company, even rolling up his sleeves to help finish work on a purpose-built new theatre for the company before opening night.

Sixty years later, the ballet company has another artistic director but with no less lofty ambitions. Similarly, it has been

seven years since Li Cunxin (pictured left), Queensland Ballet’s current artistic director, arrived with a seemingly outrageous vision – for Queensland Ballet (QB) to be a global standard company, one of the powerhouse companies in the Pacific region.

“Everything we do is working to realise that vision,” says Li ahead of the company’s 60th Anniversary Gala in March. The special event will pay homage to its directors past and present in a program of excerpts from landmark ballets, starring guest artists from the Australian Ballet, the Royal Ballet (London) and former QB principal dancers Hao Bin and Meng Ningning.

“This company boasts one of the best artistic teams of anywhere in the world, with tremendous experience and credibility, and almost every one of them has danced in countries around world. We had 23 dancers when I arrived, now we have 60 full-time dancers from seven nationalities,” says Li. QB also collaborates with a number of international companies, such as London’s Royal Ballet and others from Winnipeg, Birmingham and Shanghai, to bring new works to Australia. But its own productions are the ones that have been breaking box office records, from lavish re-imaginings of classics such as Cinderella and Sleeping Beauty to the more avant-garde Strictly Gershwin, that wasn’t strictly ballet but a stylish blend of dance including tap and ballroom, set to a Gershwin soundtrack. It was the first time it had been performed by a foreign company outside London and people flocked from interstate to see it.

Even beyond its program QB is pushing its boundaries in other ways, too.

Charles Lisner started the company with an academy for student dancers that helped pay the bills until he could mount a stage production but, taking that to a super next

Queensland Ballet 60th Anniversary Gala is on 20-28 March at Playhouse, QPAC South Brisbane. Tickets from $100 plus fees see www.queenslandballet.com.au

level, just last month QB opened its new $18million training facility on the campus of Kelvin Grove College, where full-time students can attend academic studies as well as dance training and it will become a pool of future talent for the company.

Lisner was also a pioneer of taking ballet to regional areas, a tradition that not only continues today but has been vastly expanded. “In this anniversary year we are going to perform in more than 20 venues across Queensland and we have also increased our national touring footprint – we’ll be going back to Melbourne this year but to the Victorian Arts Centre for the first time. We’re also taking smaller groups to London and Switzerland so our international footprint is also expanding. We’re receiving more international invitations to tour so our reputation has definitely risen quite sharply,” says Li. But the icing on the cake – and by far the company’s most audacious project yet – is the redevelopment of the Thomas Dixon Centre in West End which not only provides expanded facilities for dancers and staff, it will add a new theatre, rooftop bar and champagne bars in converted WWll bunkers, opening up the space for community use. Naturally it all comes at a price and QB couldn’t have done it without some very generous benefactors, such as the Ian Potter Foundation, a contribution from the state government and largely public donations to foot the $60 million bill.

The Centre is expected to open before the end of the year.

“I think it is going to be the most ambitious dance facility in this country – the biggest undertaking ever.”

This concert’s

A

a steal

nyone who manages to snag a ticket to GOMA’s Up Late in March is in for a super mini concert for just $38 per person with stellar talent on the playbill including Montaigne, newly anointed Australia’s next entrant in Eurovision, and Unearthed discovery, singer-songwriter 20-year-old Miiesha (right), who hails from the small Aboriginal community of Woorabinda in Central Queensland and has quickly emerged as a star on the rise.

Also on the ticket are free pop-up performancs including Casus Circus, Bathroom Beats: Shower Karaoke and the Science+Chill Lounge with some nerdy sci-comics and playful experiments with a twist.

Up Late is on 20 March and (with different guests including Robert Forster) on 21 March at GOMA, tickets $38 per person. For the full line-up and tickets see www.qagoma.qld.gov.au/uplate

HWY, La Boite’s annual festival of new work that opens

up the doors of its performance space for audiences to get a sneak peek at pitch sessions, listen to first reads, join the conversation, step into a workshop and see an avant-garde

program of performances is back from 4-18 March.

Single show tickets start at $12 plus fees at www.laboite.com.au

Life and times of EDITH PIAF

Exposing Edith is more than mere cabaret as Michaela Burger and Greg Wain chart the life, loves and losses of Edith Piaf in a mix of music and dramatic performance. In between the songs that shot Piaf to stardom, such as ‘La Vie en Rose’ and ‘je ne regrette rien’, Burger recounts a collection of extraordinary stories of Piaf’s life, taking on a multitude of characters in the process, from several of her lovers to Edith Piaf herself.

On 19-21 March at Cremorne Theatre, QPAC, South Brisbane. Tickets from $59 plus fees at www.qpac.com.au

For the love

of objects

Three Brisbane artists have come together for an intimate exhibition that shows very different and creative views of artefacts that crowd our everyday lives and, perhaps, our homes. Each tells a story in a unique way: Helen McIntosh paints painstaking watercolours, capturing every layer of well-loved artefacts; Fran Van Krieken works with paint, paper, canvas, wood and cloth to create paintings, cut-outs and sculpted figures; and Linda Murray’s mixed media portraits reveal her fascination for hats. Exhibition opens with a launch event on 24 April at 6pm, (and closes 27 April) at Richard Randall Art Studio, Brisbane Botanic Gardens, Mt Coo-tha.

Painting by Helen McKintosh

BNE March/April 2020 | 33

WHAT’S ON

Di re c tor’s c ut

A

fter a successful run with a very modern take on Cinderella last year, and a new Matilda Award for his direction of that play, Daniel Evans is back with another production from new collaborators Myths Made Here – and, just like Cinderella, it’s not what you’d expect.

Medea, written by Kate Mulvany and Anne-Louise Sarks, is not really about Medea at all.

“Yes, it is her story and, yes, her tragic act of revenge casts a shadow across the world of this play but it’s actually about her two sons,” says Evans ahead of the play’s rehearsals. “The beauty of this version is that it puts Jason and Leon centrestage and gives them faces and voices, dreams and wants, in a story where they are usually never seen and only referred to in passing dialogue.

“It’s as though we’re revolving the entire myth and exposing the story from behind-the-scenes. In this way, Medea becomes something of a supporting character and we see the classic story in a whole new light.”

Should the audience google the original play by Euripides before seeing this production or is it best viewed fresh?

Absolutely! If anything it will only add to your experience of the play. But there’s no need to swot the Wikipedia entry or have a doctoral thesis in Ancient Greek Tragedy. We know as much as the boys about the events happening outside the room, which is to say, not a lot. Mum and Dad are fighting.

The bedroom door is locked. It’s getting late. The play is set in 2020: it’s happening here and now; there are no masks or robes in sight.

As a director, what do you like most about this play?

Just in case Greek mythology is not your strong point, director Daniel Evans gives us a behind-the-scenes summary of what you need to know about his latest project, Medea

I love that the play is able to somehow capture Medea – in all of her fear and pain and love – in small bursts into the boys’ bedroom. I love that her complexity collides with really ordinary conversations about Dad’s new girlfriend’s mansion or their pet goldfish Hercules and Cornelius.

There’s a tension between the outside world and the interior world of the bedroom – the play lives in that tension.

On one hand it’s very funny and heart-warming while on another it’s quite chilling and tragic.

There’s no getting away from the fact Medea is a tragic story. What would you like the audience to take away from it?

Audiences are in for a treat. It is a tragedy but this is not a tragic story – it’s actually a lot about love and family and the

A FRENCH point of view Polish up on your speed reading because the Alliance Française French Film Festival is back at Palace cinemas from 18 March to 14 April with almost 50 films on the program, including several screening for the first time in Australia. For the program and tickets see www.affrenchfilmfestival.org

34 | BNE March/April 2020

THE PERFECT NANNY (CHANSON DOUCE) When Myriam goes back to work she hires a nanny to look after her two young children who instantly becomes part of the family – but this is a taut thriller and it soon turns into every parent’s nightmare.

INVISIBLES (LES INVISIBLES) The film’s ‘invisible’ people are social workers and homeless women whose lives are rocked by the imminent closure of an illegal shelter. It navigates an acute social issue with a good dose of humour.

WHEN WHAT things we do because of those two things. I hope they fall in love with our Jasper and Leon, and Medea.

If you put away the original play (or close the tab on the Wikipedia entry), this is a recognisable scenario: two boys playing in a room while their parents fight downstairs.

There’s drama in that alone. The tragedy enters when a mother decides to cross a very fine line, not because she is a monster but because of the ferocity with which she loves her sons. The arc of this story can feel unfathomable, the play shows us quite the opposite.

If Euripides were alive to see this play what do you think he would say?

I think he’d love it. It’s as though we’re living in a house that he built, we’ve just chosen to paint the inside of it a different colour.

You’ve written your own award-winning play inspired by another Greek tragedy, Oedipus Doesn’t Live Here Anymore. What’s the attraction for a modern-day playwright in Greek mythology?

Greek mythology can feel like this very far-away, whitemarble-coated artefact but the stuff inside of it – the feats of passion, the acts of anger, the sacrifices of love – still swirl inside all of us today. The attraction, for me anyway, is that Greek mythology still shows us as we are: how far we might’ve come but how little we’ve travelled.

The world might look different but we still have those mythical parts, those ancient impulses, inside of us. The Greeks aren’t some ancient civilisation, they’re our forebears – we owe a lot of what we do, what we see, how we understand the world to them. Plus, they’re just kickass storytellers. They are, in many ways, the original HBO.

This is your second work with local collective Myths Made Here after Cinderella. Is modernising mythology going to be your modus operandi?

WHERE

MARCH 4-14

Mother, starring Noni Hazlehurst

Cremorne Theatre, QPAC, South Brisbane

5

A morning with author Elizabeth Gilbert

Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane

7-21

The 39 Steps

Brisbane Arts Theatre, Petrie Terrace, city

10

Mission Songs Project

Redland Performing Arts Centre, Cleveland

From 14

Triple X, Queensland Theatre

Bille Brown Theatre, South Brisbane

From 14

Curious George (for children)

Brisbane Arts Theatre, Petrie Terrace, city

Until 15

New Woman, exhibition

Museum of Brisbane, City Hall

18+19

Rolling Thunder Vietnam

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane

18-22

Hossein Khosravi, art projection

William Jolly Bridge, South Brisbane

From 18

Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, musical

Lyric Theatre, QPAC, South Brisbane

19

The Chaser

Fortitude Music Hall, Fortitude Valley

20

The Sapphires, musical

Logan Entertainment Centre

20

Fish Lane, City Sounds free music series

Wintergarden, Queen Street Mall

20-22

CMC Rocks

Willowbank, Ipswich

21

The Peasant Prince, Queensland Symphony Orchestra, family

Queensland Symphony Orchestra Studio, South Brisbane

From 21

Mavis Ngallametta, Show Me the Way to Go Home, exhibition

QAGOMA, South Brisbane

Until 22

Brisbane Comedy Festival

Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm and four more venues

25

Gravity and Other Myths

Redland Performing Arts Centre, Cleveland

25-29

World Science Festival

Various, Cultural Precinct, South Bank

26

The Australian Tenors

Redland Performing Arts Centre, Cleveland

27

Liza Meets Bassey

Logan Entertainment Centre

28

Ann Thomson, artist talk and exhibition

Mitchell Fine Art Gallery, Fortitude Valley

31

Celebrating Nina Simone, with Lisa Simone

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane

Christine Anu in concert, WOW Festival

Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm

Absolutely. What are the stories we tell over and over? And why? The modern day renderings of Matthew Whittet’s Cinderella and now Medea are subtly linked. They take a recognisable female character and radically shift the world around them so that we understand them differently. We live in a world of multiple truths and this is what the work we do is really about: there are always two sides to every story.

5

Sound Society, free live music

Banyan Lawn, Roma Street Parkland

9

Gipsy Kings

Medea is on from 28 April to 9 May at Cremorne Theatre, QPAC, South Brisbane. Tickets $49 plus fees. See www.qpac.com.au

Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane

10

Bluewater Festival

Shorncliffe Pier and foreshore

14

Sleeping Beauty (for children)

Brisbane Arts Theatre, Petrie Terrace, city

11-13

Marvel Live

Brisbane Entertainment Centre, Boondall

18

Under the Southern Stars, concert

Riverstage, City Botanic Gardens

18

Creative Generation Excellence GOMA, South Brisbane Awards in Visual Art 2020, exhibition

Until 19

Spoken, celebrating Queensland languages exhibition

State Library of Queensland, South Bank

Until 19

High Rotation, exhibition

Museum of Brisbane, City Hall

21

The Owl and the Pussycat (for children)

Redland Performing Arts Centre, Cleveland

21+22

Hubris, Daniel Sloss, comedian

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane

24

So Pop with the Pussycat Dolls

Brisbane Entertainment Centre, Boondall

24+26

Opera Gala, Queensland Symphony Orchestra

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane

25

Anzac Day Parade

Brisbane city

SPREAD YOUR WINGS (DONNE-MOI DES AILES) A tetchy father-and-son relationship takes a thrilling turn in this family adventure when they join forces to train a gaggle of newborn wild geese to take their first migratory flight away from captivity. Inspired by a true story.

APRIL 4

29

Ocean Film Festival

Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm

30

Spirit of the Dance

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane BNE March/April 2020 | 35

BOOKS

Around the world in books

The Lost Pianos of Siberia

by Sophy Roberts

From Australia to Norway, China to America, and a fantasy world in between, these books take you there on a wild ride of emotion and adventure

Siberia is often portrayed as a wasteland so it’s refreshing to read instead that dotted throughout this remote land are pianos, from grand instruments created during the boom years of the 19th century to humble Soviet-made uprights that found their way into equally modest homes. Roberts travelled the Siberian hinterland, Russia’s Far North and Far East for two years researching the human stories behind a rich history in piano music and this is an engaging discovery tour, not a text book read (Doubleday).

Braised Pork by An Yu The story begins in Beijing where Jia Jia’s husband dies suddenly leaving behind an unusual sketch as the only clue, but the rest of the journey turns out to be more self-discovery for Jia Jia as she searches for the meaning of the sketch. The trail takes her to Shanghai, the high plains of Tibet and into a dreamy otherworld of water but this is an emotional awakening not an action packed adventure (Harvill Secker).

American Dirt

by Jeanine Cummins This book had plenty of hype before it was released in January and has faced equal measures of controversy since so if you haven’t read it yet you might want to catch up and find out what all the fuss is about. Billed as a ground-breaking work of fiction inspired by the experiences of thousands of migrants who cross the US-Mexico border each year, the story revolves around a woman and her son as they flee a murdering drug cartel. Some readers, such as Oprah Winfrey, say it woke them up to the plight of migrants on the run, but others have accused Cummins of exploitation, appropriation and playing to stereotypes for a white liberal audience (Hachette).

The Dickens Boy

by Tom Keneally

Author An Yu 36 | BNE March/April 2020

Image: Tara Lengyel

Keneally is a master at weaving historical figures and events into compelling works of fiction and so he does with his new book, a reimagining of the adventures of Charles Dickens’ 10th child, Edward Bulwer Lytton Dickens, known as Plorn. At 16, and considered to be an under-achiever, Plorn is sent to Australia to apply himself and soon proves himself to be a plucky sort as he comes across a colourful cast of characters on his Antipodean adventure (Vintage Australia, published 31 March). Meet Tom Keneally at special events at North Lakes Library on 31 March and Cleveland Library on 1 April.

Good Dogs Don’t Make It to the South Pole

by Hans Olav Thyvold The storyteller here is a dog, a self-confessed couch potato who loses his master and drowns his sorrows in too many treats.

Tassen’s story is funny and moving as he contemplates his fate and forms a new bond with his master’s widow. She reads him stories and together they research an historic race to the South Pole, led by an intrepid pack of dogs, which proves to be an inspiration for them both when life throws another curve ball their way (Allen & Unwin).

The Last Smile in Sunder City

by Luke Arnold Apart from an uncanny resemblance to Michael Hutchence seen in the TV mini-series Never Tear Us Apart, Adelaide-born actor Arnold shows a talent for writing in his debut novel introducing rough diamond hero Fetch Phillips. The contemporary fantasy has been described as Chinatown meets Harry Potter and the line “I don’t work for humans” is intriguing enough to make us want to keep reading (Hachette).

Apeirogon

by Colum McCann This is an extraordinary novel, and not just because it is different to most in its structure and style. The story may seem simple enough as two men find common ground over a shared tragedy but it’s quite the opposite as one man is Israeli and one is Palestinean and each has lost a young daughter to bullets and bombs.

McCann intertwines centuries of culture and tradition, politics and violence with the power of love and friendship in an epic masterpiece (Bloomsbury).

The Wandering

by Intan Paramaditha This is a book for the new age – put yourself in the shoes of a global nomad and choose which way you want to go at the end of each chapter: Amsterdam or Zagreb, San Francisco or Los Angeles, with stops in Berlin, New York, Jakarta and more. Which relationships will you make or break? What gifts will you accept or not? It’s an interesting journey but where will you end up (Harvill Secker)?

Find more books at news@bne, Aero and News Travels, Domestic Terminal Level 2; express@bne

at Domestic Terminal Level 1; and News Travels at International Terminal Levels 2,3,4.

DAY IN THE LIFE James Fraser-Byass departing for Port Moresby after a holiday visiting family

Parvinder and Rajwinder Singh, from Bracken Ridge, with son Yuvi at the airport to farewell Mrs Singh senior travelling home to Delhi

Sisters Chloe and Chelsea McLachlan, from the Gold Coast, on their way to Bathurst, NSW

A RECORD NUMBER of passengers travelled through BRISBANE AIRPORT last year, taking the total to more than 24 MILLION, and giving BNE the BIGGEST BOOST in passenger numbers of any major airport in Australia – on the BUSIEST DAY of the year close to 82,000 TRAVELLERS passed through the gates of both terminals

Photography by Mark Turner

Gege Wen and Willow Wang, from Melbourne, Victoria, departing for Proserpine on their way to the Great Barrier Reef

Naomi Gowlett, from Doolandella, arriving home from Los Angeles

Elizabeth Browning, from Colorado USA, travelling home for holidays

Kamil Hepner, from Wellington, New Zealand, on his way to the Great Barrier Reef

BNE NEED TO KNOW

Enviro-friendly BUSES

A fleet of electric buses transports passengers between Brisbane Airport terminals and Skygate retail precinct or the long-stay AIRPARK. The buses are quieter and better for the environment, reducing carbon emissions equivalent to taking 100 cars off the road each year. Interiors, too, have been designed with travellers in mind, with plenty of luggage racks, three full-sized double doors for easy entry and exit and GPS next-stop announcements.

Brisbane Airport is the first Australian airport to introduce a fleet of 11 electric buses for passengers and services operating between the Domestic and International Terminals from 4am to 11pm daily; between the terminals and Skygate from 6.30am (weekdays, and from 8.30am weekends) to 6pm; and 24/7 between terminals and AIRPARK. Terminal Transfer Bus services are free. For timetables see www.bne.com.au/passenger/to-and-from/terminal-transfers

TRANSPORT OPTIONS AT BRISBANE AIRPORT PASSENGER PICK-UP ZONES

TERMINAL TRANSFERS Passengers transferring between the terminals can travel via the free Transfer Bus which departs at regular intervals from Level 2 International Terminal and Level 1 Domestic Terminal. See www.bne.com.au 38 | BNE March/April 2020

BNE PARKING Convenient, secure and undercover short and long-term parking is available within walking distance to both terminals. For more information about special offers and full product offering including valet, car washing, AIRPARK and more see www.bne.com.au

RIDE SHARE PICK-UP ZONES Look for the signs indicating Pre-Booked Express and Ride Booking (Ride Share) zones outside each terminal.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT TransLink is the local bus, ferry and train public transport network stretching north to Gympie, south to Coolangatta and west to Helidon. For information and timetables see www.translink.com.au or call 13 12 30.

TRANSPORT BOOKINGS Image: Uber

Domestic Terminal: A dedicated pick-up waiting area provides free parking for the first 30 minutes for drivers arriving to collect passengers from Domestic Terminal, located beside the P2 long term car park and accessed from Dryandra Road. Passengers can contact the driver when they are ready for collection and the driver can proceed to the pick-up location. For easy how to use instructions see www.bne.com.au International Terminal: The dedicated passenger pick-up area for international arrivals is located at ground level at the northern end of the International Terminal. It is accessible only to drivers collecting passengers who are ready and waiting at the kerb.

Alternatively, waiting areas with longer parking options can be found at the pick-up waiting area accessible from Dryandra Road (up to 30 minutes), Skygate shopping and dining precinct or Kingsford Smith Memorial (both up to two hours), all just minutes from International Terminal.

Drivers collecting passengers with a disability or mobility limitation from International Terminal can stop in accessible waiting bays on the Level 4 ‘Departures’ Road.

Domestic Terminal: On the central road between the taxi pick-up and passenger drop-off on either side of the Skywalk.

International Terminal: Outside the terminal at the southern end on ground level.

A Brisbane Airport access fee of $4 applies to all pick-ups from the Ride Booking zones, which will be added to your booking by your ride sharing service. For location maps see www.bne.com.au/to-from-brisbane-airport/ transport-options

Coach, rail, limousine and corporate car bookings can be made at the Visitor Information Centre, Level 2 International Terminal or Level 1 Domestic Terminal.

TAXIS AND AIRTRAIN Taxi ranks International Terminal Level 2, kerbside Domestic Terminal Level 1, kerbside Airtrain provides regular rail links between Brisbane Airport, Brisbane city, Gold Coast and TransLink network as well as terminal transfers. Tickets available in the terminal or at the station.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRES For information about accommodation, tours, transfer tickets and general enquiries, Visitor Information Centres are located on Level 2 International Terminal and Level 1 Domestic Terminal Central Area.

LOCAL AMENITIES

CURRENCY EXCHANGE Travelex currency exchange and transfer facilities are on Levels 2, 3 and 4 International Terminal.

Skygate is Brisbane Airport’s retail and dining precinct, a short free ride on the Transfer Bus from the terminals. There are more than 160 stores, including brand-name factory outlets, a 24/7 supermarket, hairdresser, gym, restaurants, chemist, medical clinic, hotel, beauty services, barber, tavern and golf leisure centre.

BAGGAGE LOCKERS

AIRPORT ambassadors Welcoming volunteers are available to answer questions and offer directions to visitors within Brisbane Airport’s Domestic and International Terminals. Look for ambassadors wearing bright blue shirts if you need assistance and our team of Chinese-speaking ambassadors wear red shirts.

TAX REFUND SCHEME (TRS) The TRS enables international travellers to claim a refund, subject to certain conditions, of the Goods and Services Tax (GST) and Wine Equalisation Tax (WET) that you pay on goods bought in Australia. For details see passenger information at www.bne.com.au If your purchase is part of your carry-on luggage: The TRS office is located past security and passport control, just to the right of the Lotte Duty Free entrance.

If your purchase is packed in luggage you intend to check: Before you check-in your luggage make your way to the Australian Border Force Client Services Office, located on Level 1 International Terminal. For further information call 1300 363 263 or see www.customs.gov.au

TOUR BRISBANE AIRPORT Do you have a question about the new runway?

Would you like to go ‘behind-the-scenes’ of airport operations? Brisbane Airport hosts free tours for community groups. Find out more at www.bne.com.au/tours

ROTARY CLUB OF BRISBANE AIRPORT The club is a vibrant group of professionals with a shared passion to support the local community who meet weekly and new members are always welcome.

For details see www.bneairportrotary.com

Find small, medium and large lockers for short and long-term hire at the terminal entrance to the public car park at International Terminal, at either end of Domestic Terminal, or next to the bus stop at Skygate.

DISABILITY ACCESS Airlines are responsible for assisting passengers with disabilities within terminals.

Passengers should refer to their airline’s policies prior to booking their ticket.

Dedicated Changing Places bathroom facilities for the use of travellers with special needs are located on the central ground floor area of Domestic Terminal (near Qantas baggage carousel 3) and on Level 4, International Terminal, near Flight Centre.

Facilities for assistance animals are available at International Terminal Level 3 Departures and Domestic Terminal Level 2 Central Area.

POLICE For assistance at Brisbane Airport telephone 13 12 37.

LOST PROPERTY International Terminal Visitor Information Centre, Level 2; call (07) 3406 3190 or email international@sqt.com.au

Domestic Terminal Enquiries first to airlines –

Qantas (gates 1-25) call +61 7 3867 3264 Virgin Australia (gates 38-50) call +61 7 3114 8150 Jetstar (gates 26-36) call + 61 7 3336 1752 Tigerair email ttbne.ops@aerocare.com.au before contacting Visitor Information Centre, Level 1; call (07) 3068 6698 or email domestic@sqt.com.au

Car parks and buses

Contact Visitor Information Centre as above.

WiFi access

Brisbane Airport has the fastest uncapped free WiFi in Australia available at International and Domestic Terminals.

BNE IT ALL BEGINS HERE

Seoul

CHINA

South Korea

Tokyo (Narita) and Tokyo (Haneda)* Japan

Shanghai** (Pudong)

Guangzhou

China

China

Shenzhen China

Dubai

United Arab Emirates

Hong Kong

Abu Dhabi

Bangkok

United Arab Emirates

Taipei Taiwan

China

Manila

Thailand

Philippines

Kuala Lumpur

Bandar Seri Begawan

Malaysia

Singapore

Brunei

Nauru Nauru

Singapore

Port Moresby

Munda Honiara

Papua New Guinea

Denpasar

Solomon Islands

Indonesia

5 8

Espiritu Sa Vanuatu

Port Vila Vanuatu

Noumea

BRISBANE

New Caledonia

Auckland

New Zealand

Wellington

New Zealand

Christchurch

New Zealand

Queenstown New Zealand

Dunedin

New Zealand

Destinations DIRECT FROM BRISBANE

AirAsia

Air Canada

Aircalin

40 | BNE March/April 2020

Air Niugini

Air New Zealand

Alliance Airlines

Air Vanuatu

China Airlines

Cathay Pacific

China Southern Airlines China Eastern Airlines

Etihad

Emirates

Fiji Airlines

Eva Air

Fly Corporate

Australia’s largest domestic network

CANADA

Domestic destinations

Vancouver

Canada

San Francisco USA

Chicago* USA

Los Angeles USA

Honolulu

USA

USA

Darwin

Apia

Cairns

Samoa

Cloncurry

anto

Mt Isa

Port Hedland

Longreach

Nadi Fiji

Uluru

Perth

Moranbah Barcaldine

Blackall

Alice Springs

Townsville

Emerald

Whitsunday Coast (Proserpine) Hamilton Island Mackay Rockhampton Gladstone

Biloela Bundaberg Windorah Charleville Fraser Coast (Hervey Bay) Birdsville Roma Miles Quilpie BRISBANE St George Toowoomba Thargomindah Cunnamulla Norfolk Island Moree Inverell Narrabri Coffs Harbour Tamworth Armidale Dubbo Port Macquarie

Adelaide

Newcastle Orange Sydney Lord Howe Island Wollongong Canberra Melbourne

Launceston Hobart

* Coming in March (Tokyo, Haneda) and April (Chicago) 2020. ** Seasonal service resumes late October 2020. Map not to scale. Airlines and destinations current at time of print.

Hainan Airlines

Jetstar

Hawaiian Airlines

Malaysia Airlines Korean Air

Nauru Airlines Malindo Air

Qantas/ QantasLink Philippine Airlines

Royal Brunei Airlines Rex

Singapore Airlines Samoa Airways

Thai Airways Solomon Airlines

Virgin Australia Tigerair

BNE March/April 2020 | 41

ESCAPE EXTRA

Winning the WAR ON WASTE

An inner city hotel leads the way in targeting zero waste

S

picers Balfour Hotel is a hidden gem between Brisbane Airport and the city. The elegantly refurbished Queenslander, nestled behind a screen of paperbark, frangipani and bamboo with a sneaky skyline view from its rear rooftop deck, has earned a fair share of accolades for its fine facilities, service and kitchen but it’s also leading the hospitality industry in another critical area, well on its way to becoming Queensland’s first zero waste hotel.

The boutique hotel and restaurant in New Farm is now recycling 95 per cent of its waste and generates just one domestic wheelie bin of landfill waste per fortnight, down from a previous total of two 600-litre commercial wheelie bins per week. According to sustainability officer, Alice Dahlberg, that is saving the hotel an estimated $5000 in additional landfill costs per year.

Hotel general manager Simon Magnus says he worked closely with Balfour Kitchen head chef Nick Stapleton to make changes across the business, from the kitchen to the guest bathrooms and even the mini bar.

“It’s important that we lead the way, not only for Spicers but to prove to the rest of the industry – hotels and restaurants – that zero waste is possible if you put your mind and soul into it,” he says. “You can actually achieve it quite quickly.”

The initiatives have been welcomed by guests, says Magnus, who claims it is winning them new customers. “They came on board a lot more than I thought. We’re picking up a lot of guests purely because they know we’re a sustainable company.” Dahlberg adds that they even make suggestions for further improvements which the company takes on board for future initiatives.

So far, changes have seen the elimination of hundreds of plastic preparation containers from the restaurant kitchen, specialist recycling of thousands of latex chefs’ gloves a month and the introduction of large, refillable amenities containers in guest bathrooms, replacing plastic miniatures that ended up in landfill.

Also key to its success, says Magnus, has been close collaboration with kitchen suppliers who no longer supply produce in Styrofoam boxes or plastic bags, reducing the amount of waste that enters the premises in the first place.

For Spicers Retreats founder and owner Jude Turner, it’s just the beginning. The group has set a minimum standard for all of its properties to adopt initiatives to achieve zero net waste which is already seeing major improvements. For example, Spicers Sangoma, in the Blue Mountains in NSW, has doubled its recycling and composts all its food waste which also has led to cost savings of 25 per cent. Turner now wants others in the industry to join them on the journey.

“We’re looking forward to working with other hotels and restaurants, the industry and government to find a way to reuse or recycle that last five per cent which doesn’t currently have a sustainable alternative or recycling service in Australia,” she says.

42 | BNE March/April 2020

WHAT’S NEARBY

Spicers Balfour provides home-away-from home accommodation in 17 rooms and suites and head chef Nick Stapleton’s Balfour Kitchen is a go-to for its award-winning Vietnamese inspired menu – even if you’re not a guest.

The hotel is just a walk away from some of Brisbane’s best addresses.

CHOUQUETTE, 19 BARKER STREET. You can’t be in the neighbourhood and not sneak a treat from this French patisserie at least once – afternoon tea perhaps!

CONTINENTAL CAFÉ, 21 BARKER STREET. “An oldie but a goodie” as one patron enthused about this cosy spot, still getting rave reviews from diners after nearly 20 years.

Open for lunch and dinner.

HIMALAYAN CAFÉ, 640 BRUNSWICK STREET. Cheap and cheerful Nepalese food where goat curry is a favourite. Vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free friendly.

EDWINA CORLETTE GALLERY, 629 BRUNSWICK STREET. Shows contemporary Australian and Asia-Pacific art in exhibitions that change monthly. Jan Murphy and Philip Bacon galleries are a little further down the road.

HOWARD SMITH WHARVES, 5 BOUNDARY STREET. Mingle with the cool crowd and dine at Stanley or Arc Dining, have a cocktail at Mr Percival’s or a cool ale at Felons while gazing down the barrel of Brisbane River under the Story Bridge.

BRISBANE REGION MAP

We respectfully acknowledge the Turrbal people, the Traditional Owners of the land on which Brisbane Airport stands, and pay respect to their Elders past, present and emerging. *The general locations of larger Indigenous language groups of South East Queensland on this map are indicative only, based on the AIATSIS Map of Indigenous Australia published by Aboriginal Studies Press.

Map illustration by Eun-Young Lim. Map is not to scale or exact and an indication only.

BNE March/April 2020 | 43

Day stay & refresh at brisbane airport hotels

relax

with a hotel room for the day!

bneahg.com.au