FR EE YO M UR AG AZ IN E
ISSUE #32 MAY/JUNE 2019
NEW TOURISM The ethical way to go TINY IS THE COSY WAY TO STAY SHOWSTOPPERS HUGH JACKMAN KATE MILLER-HEIDKE
ESCAPES
MIRANDA
TAPSELL
Safari in Botswana Winter in Sapporo Tea trail in north Queensland Sleep retreat in the city
LOVE IS ALL AROUND
We’re getting runway ready Brisbane’s new runway will take you more places and make us better connected than ever before. Stay up to date: bne.com.au/newrunway
Welcome to your free BNE magazine, brought to you by Brisbane Airport
T CONTENTS 4 6 8 10
Brisbane Airport News
Hugh Jackman steps into new role; more awards for Brisbane Airport; regional services ramped up
Brisbane Insider
Dancing CEOs; fashion winners; Lego masters, and more
Turning the film spotlight on the Top End and her home town
You can’t walk through winter without a good pair of boots
ESCAPE 14 Safari in Botswana
20 22 24
I QUEENSLAND 26 Melissa Downes
9News Queensland co-host
TASTE 28 Best of Scottish whiskies 30
Miranda Tapsell
STYLE 12 Booty call
18
14
The new tourism
How ‘purpose beyond profit’ is driving travel
Who’s stalking who on this wild adventure
Winter in Sapporo
Cool things to do off peak in Japan’s northern city
Tea break
Exploring Queensland’s tropical tea trail
Escape Extra
Vivid Sydney; new in NYC; sleep retreat, and more
4
Try before you buy at Brisbane Airport; new city hotspots
Winter warmers to taste and make What the best chefs are cooking and a recipe to try
WHAT’S ON 32 Australian stories in spotlight 34 35
Nostalgia by the sea; family saga rocks the stage, and more
Shows for all tastes
Music, dance and theatre to spice up cool nights
Events calendar
What’s happening around the city
GALLERY 40 Day in the life
On the ground, building Brisbane Airport’s new runway
Stay small
Tiny houses are the latest way to stay and play from the country to the coast
he movement towards ethical and sustainable tourism is growing according to latest pop polls and travel operators who make real efforts, not just token gestures, to provide experiences with ‘purpose beyond profit’ are likely to see their businesses thrive – just like Australia’s Intrepid Group has done (leading CEO James Thornton to coin the phrase). Find out how they, and others like them, are doing it on page 8. It inspires all of us to think more carefully when planning our next getaway – whether that might be a safari in Botswana like John Rosenthal’s adventure (p14) or going off grid in a cosy country cubby house (p20). Choose wisely and everyone benefits.
NEED TO KNOW 36 Helpful information for
visitors to Brisbane Airport
38 41 12
Destination map Brisbane region map
24 BNE magazine is published bi-monthly by Brisbane Airport Corporation. Brisbane Airport Corporation Head of Media and Corporate Communications: Leonie Vandeven Managing Editor: Heather McWhinnie (editor@bnemagazine.com.au) Advertising sales: advertising@bnemagazine.com.au Designers: Leanne Thompson and Mhari Hughes, PrintPublish Cover photography: Johnny Diaz Nicolaidis ©2019 Brisbane Airport Corporation The contents of this publication are not for reproduction, redistribution or reuse by any means whatsoever or in any form whatsoever without express permission of the publisher. Advertising: all advertisements in BNE magazine are the responsibility of advertisers. Advertising is accepted on the understanding that it does not contravene the Trade Practices Act. Responsibility is not accepted by BNE magazine for statements made or the failure of any product or service to give satisfaction. The publication of any material or editorial does not necessarily constitute endorsement of views or opinions expressed. While every effort is made to avoid errors, some information contained in the publication may be superceded.
BNE May/June 2019 | 3
BRISBANE AIRPORT NEWS
HUGH JACKMAN
steps out
in new role
He’s the ‘Greatest Showman’ so he’s a natural for a role like this, but it’s not his singing or acting talents that have made him the perfect choice to be the global ambassador for R.M. Williams’ iconic boots but his own style choices. Jackman has been a long-time fan of R.M. Williams boots and while visiting the workshop in Adelaide he told the local newspaper that he was proud to represent them around the world. “To me they are synonymous with being Australian. I wanted to have a pair ever since I was little; I think I nicked a pair of my mate’s and I still haven’t given them back! I wear them wherever I go because they are companions for life. R.M.’s have been a part of my life from my early stage days to where I am today.” And Jackman’s journey is far from over. The average person is likely to take more than 216,262,500 steps in their lifetime, which adds up to more than 170,000km or 4.4 laps around the world, and R.M. Williams boots are hand-made to withstand the wear and tear, each one made from a single piece of premium leather with a single seam at the back. Find the boots at R.M. Williams at Brisbane Airport, Level 3 (after security) International Terminal. See www.rmwilliams.com.au
B N E A W IN N E R
Brisbane Airport (BNE) has been voted Best Airport in Australia/Pacific for the third time in the Skytrax World Airport Awards. BNE also jumped up to 18th in the list of the World’s Top 100 Airports, the only Australian airport to make it into the top 20. It’s not the only award for the airport in recent months, with European-based online travel agency eDreams ranking BNE at number two in its list of 10 Best Airports in the World, behind Singapore. The results were drawn from close to 80,000 reviews from travellers over the last year who judged airports on their variety and quality of restaurants, shopping facilities, airport service and waiting areas. BNE was also recognised for its outstanding achievements in route development marketing at the Routes Asia 2019 Marketing Awards, winning the 20+ million passenger category and taking out the top gong as Overall Winner. Gert-Jan de Graaff, Brisbane Airport Corporation CEO, says the organisation has worked hard over the last few years to improve facilities, processes and the passenger experience at the airport’s terminals. “In the last financial year alone we invested more than $350 million across almost 300 projects, including the International Terminal concourse and apron expansion, self-service and bag drop upgrades, and improving our Interterminal Transfer facility.” The new runway, due to open next year, and the $40 million redevelopment of the Domestic Terminal which is currently underway will continue to strengthen its position as the future gateway to Australia and one of the best airports in the world, he says.
TIME
flies
It’s been 15 years since Jetstar launched services in Australia and it has consistently won awards for Best Low-Cost Airline since 2007. It has also expanded to include offshoots based in Singapore, Japan and Vietnam, and has carried more than 300 million passengers on flights it now operates to more than 85 destinations in 18 countries. Last year it launched the first direct service between Brisbane and Uluru. See www.jetstar.com
BNE Maps + More Download the Brisbane Airport app to access important flight information, terminal maps and parking, shopping and dining options at the airport. Add your itinerary and more. Available free for iPhone and Android at Google play and App Store 4 | BNE May/June 2019
Follow Brisbane Airport
MORE FLIGHTS
connecting to regional NSW Now it’s even easier to make a quick getaway to the wine and food bowl of Orange (below), go on safari in Dubbo (right) and explore the dramatic Illawarra coastline from Wollongong as regional airline Fly Corporate has increased its services between Brisbane and the NSW cities. Fly Corporate has doubled its flights between Brisbane and Orange, added four new services between Brisbane and Dubbo, including new Sunday and Thursday afternoon services, and added five new flights between Brisbane and Wollongong.
Images this page: Destination NSW
To see the complete regional network operated by Fly Corporate see www.flycorporate.com.au
Brisbane Airport Voted Best Airport in Australia/Pacific 2019 by travellers globally
bne.com.au BNE May/June 2019 | 5
BRISBANE INSIDER
CROWNING glory Using an Aussie sunrise as her inspiration and artfully recreating the colour palette using apricot and peach colours to achieve a rose gold tone on her model (right), Brisbane hairdresser Wendy Gunn has become the first Australian to win a prestigious world competition in France. Gunn, 69, has been a hairdresser for more than 50 years and beat entrants from more than 30 countries to win the top trophy. “It felt a bit like the hair industry’s version of Eurovision and proves you don’t need to be defined by your age,” says Gunn, following her win in the international L’Oreal Professionnel Style & Colour Trophy. “I never stop learning. I’m always eager to explore the latest trend techniques.” For her winning style Gunn, from Ink for Hair at Newmarket, picked up on one of the biggest trends seen throughout the competition. “To give your face some shape, you contour the hair using light and dark colours, such as the pink and bronze tones that are popular now,” she says.
Art and design takes over city Brisbane Art Design (BAD), is a new showcase of visual art and design talent hosted by Museum of Brisbane over 17 days in May. The program includes exhibitions, installations, artist talks, workshops, studio visits and tours across the city’s parks, laneways, galleries, artist spaces and design studios around the inner city and the centrepiece will be a major exhibition at Museum of Brisbane featuring robotics, interactive art, ceramics, jewellery, painting and more. Artist Justene Williams has created a video installation for the exhibition, drawing inspiration from themes as diverse as her suburban surroundings and her own dreams to weave together complex scenes incorporating live performance and experimental sound. In creating her work Williams is an artful scavenger, an expert in re-using and recycling materials and making what she can’t find, a skill that has grown from a childhood spent fossicking through her father’s wrecking yard, and is key to her work still today. BAD is on from 10-26 May and the major exhibition will stay at Museum of Brisbane, City Hall, until 11 August. See www.brisbaneartdesign.com.au Image: Jacquie Manning
Some of Brisbane’s bravest CEOs will be swapping the boardroom for the dance floor at City Hall to take part in a special event organised by Women’s Legal Service Queensland (WLSQ) to support the prevention of domestic violence. Elena Gosse, CEO of Australian Innovative Systems (AIS), is taking part for the second time – last year she raised more than $20,000 to help WLSQ provide free legal and social work assistance to women experiencing domestic violence, complex family law and sexual assault matters. One in five women in Australia will face domestic or family violence in their lifetime, and WLSQ assists more than 16,000 women each year. Calls to the service have increased almost 80 per cent in the last three years. Gosse (below, with her dance partner last year) has a very personal reason for adding her support to the cause as a survivor of domestic and family violence herself and this year her goal is to more than double her fundraising effort. Tom Walley, executive general manager of Flight Centre’s Australian leisure business is also ready to ‘Step Up’ and brings to the floor some serious dance cred, having performed three years straight at Flight Centre’s Global Gathering – most notably as Miley Cyrus on a ‘Wrecking Ball’ in Macau, and going all ‘La La’ with his best Ryan Gosling tap in Hawaii. All eyes will be on Walley to see how he can top that at City Hall. Last year the event raised more than $260,000 and this year the goal is to raise even more. Find out more and sponsor a dancer at www.dancingceos.com.au
Image: Stephane Feugère
CEOs can dance
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LEGO is all in the family Lyn Cramb, 71, has been the driving force behind two generations of Lego builders so when she received a text from her grandson Matt, 17, asking her if she would partner with him for Lego Masters Australia she couldn’t say no. The pair (pictured right with host Hamish Blake) are the youngest and oldest in the competition, now showing on the Nine Network, pitching their skills against seven other teams from around the country for an ultimate prize of $100,000. Matt was introduced to Lego by his grandmother, a retired maternal child health nurse, as a reward during his toilet training, earning him a set piece by piece and leading to a lifelong passion for ‘the bricks’. Today his Lego collection exceeds 20,000 pieces. Although he’s often tinkering with Lego, Matt says he enjoys it most when he’s building with family and friends so the competition in Lego Masters has been a great way to have fun with his grandma, starting as soon as they knew they had been accepted for the show. Lyn set up the rumpus room in her Brisbane home just for building Lego and they began regular practice sessions as a team, particularly to get used to building to a time limit which is the greatest challenge in the competition, says Matt. For Lyn the practice sessions were essential to get up to date with new pieces and techniques she hadn’t seen for at least 10 years, and family members rallied around for support – Lyn’s husband took over cooking and cleaning duties while the pair were “in training”. Building Lego, says Matt, is like having a conversation, “finding all the right pieces to communicate an idea in the best way possible”. Watch how well Matt and Lyn go on Lego Masters Australia, on Nine on Sunday nights at 7pm, and Monday and Tuesday nights at 7.30pm.
A previous live work by Justene Williams, Sydney Contemporary (2017)
Style YOUR OWN BAG
When Elizabeth O’Connor-Cowley’s children were young she created a fashion brand perfectly suited to kids just like hers, providing easy but funky fashion for tots to young teens. But now her own children are all grown up she’s moved on to a new venture – a luxury handbag and accessories collection called ‘article:’. There are five styles in the core collection and each can be customised with interchangeable straps, charms and accessories to create an individual look to suit different tastes and occasions. The bags are made by artisans using materials that are ethically sourced. See the collection at www.articleproduct.com
Elizabeth O’Connor-Cowley
BNE May/June 2019 | 7
FEATURE
THE NEW
tourism
Purpose beyond profit is the trend driving tourism growth now and companies, travellers and destinations are all winners, writes Tonya Turner
I
t’s no longer enough to hang towels up in the hotel bathroom and think you are doing your bit for the environment. Small eco steps such as conserving water and energy are one thing but sustainable and ethical travel is quite another. As social media fuels an explosion in global travel it has become more important than ever to find ways to stop travellers loving once beautiful destinations to death. They good news is it seems they are listening and the trend towards sustainable tourism is growing. According to a poll carried out by global insurance specialist AIG Travel more than three quarters of respondents believed sustainable travel is important, up from little more than half of respondents the year before. In reporting the findings a spokesperson for AIG said that travel agents and companies providing information on sustainable travel and incorporating sustainable travel practices into their offerings may enjoy higher consumer loyalty than those that don’t. That certainly seems to be working for Australia’s Intrepid Travel, which has become the world’s largest provider of adventure travel experiences. The company has recorded three years of record growth, which CEO James Thornton says is driven by an increasing global demand for sustainable travel and his company’s commitment to having a “Purpose Beyond Profit”. This awareness is part of a growing trend towards sustainable and ethical tourism which UNESCO describes as “tourism that respects both local people and the traveller, cultural heritage and the environment.” The UNWTO further defines it as “tourism that takes full account of its current and future economic, social and environmental impacts,
8 | BNE May/June 2019
addressing the needs of visitors, the industry, the environment and host communities.” Ecotourism Australia certifies and represents sustainable tourism businesses that operate in natural areas, ensuring they have a strong and well-managed commitment to sustainable practices. Its certification program is one of only six worldwide accredited through the Global Sustainable Tourism Council. Lina Cronin, audit manager, says: “Sustainable tourism is of paramount importance, not only because of our responsibility to take action against climate change and other environmental challenges of our time but also because of the fact that people will continue to travel. Without looking after the places and cultures that we visit these will no longer be around for future generations to enjoy.” It’s now considered best practice for those involved in the tourism industry to be part of a globally recognised certification program when it comes to sustainability. “There are lots of businesses now that are jumping on the ‘sustainability bandwagon’ and marketing themselves as being sustainable without having any hard facts or proof to back this up. For the consumer, it can be hard to tell the difference between a genuinely sustainable tourism business and one which is ‘greenwashing’. “We believe that tourism done well can be a force for positive change, fostering environmental and cultural understanding, appreciation and conservation. By treading lightly and being a more responsible tourist, we can help ensure that tourism creates better places for people to live in and better places for people to visit,” Cronin says.
HOW TO BE A RESPONSIBLE TRAVELLER:
Bikes or walking are the only way to travel for guests on Lord Howe Island (above and opposite), and visitor numbers are limited to 400 at any one time
Images: Destination NSW
In Australia, Lord Howe Island is just one example of a destination that has sustainability front and centre of its planning and management. Sometimes being sustainable means leaving things untouched. “Approximately 75 per cent of this UNESCO World Heritage listed island’s original natural vegetation remains intact and undisturbed,” Cronin says. Other times, sustainability requires making big changes. Costa Rica is set to become the world’s first single-use plastic and carbon-free country by 2021 (99 per cent of its energy has come from renewable resources such as solar, wind, hydropower and geothermal since 2014). It’s also high on the sustainability charts for its biodiversity, protected rainforests and wildlife. Elsewhere, Slovenia was recognised as the world’s most sustainable country by the United Nations in 2017 during the International Year for Sustainable Tourism and Development. In this country famous for its breathtaking natural scenery, they retain their lush forests, separate their waste, only allow cyclists, pedestrians and buses running on natural gas into the city centre (10 years ago its streets were clogged with traffic) and build green spaces like there’s no tomorrow. Slovenia ticked an incredible 96 out of 100 boxes on sustainability, environment, climate, culture, authenticity, nature, biodiversity and more to achieve the title. When it comes to benefiting local communities, tour operators with a sustainability focus are way ahead of the game. Last year Intrepid Group achieved B Corp certification following a rigorous three-year process and chief purpose officer Leigh Barnes says sustainable travel is the only kind of travel they do. Their small group adventure tours to more than 120 countries include destinations off the beaten track, meaning the tourist dollar is spread to areas that need it most, and they only use local guides wherever they go. “These jobs not only help local economies, they instil a sense of pride and empowerment to various cultures around the world,” Barnes says. In 2014, despite elephant rides being hugely popular with tourists, Intrepid became the first global tour operator to ban them. Since then, 180 others have followed. Further back in 2010, Intrepid became carbon neutral, offsetting 290,000 tonnes of carbon emissions from both their trips and offices worldwide. Kalgoorlie-Boulder, 500km inland from Perth, is one of Barnes’ personal favourites when it comes to sustainable destinations. “It’s implemented an innovative technology in the field of renewable energies combining solar thermal energy with ground heat exchangers. They have reduced gas consumption by more than 70 per cent and emissions by 216 tonnes per year. There is a social initiative which sees natives of the area take guided tours in Karlkurla Park, showing the flora and fauna and sharing their knowledge about natural medicines, the land and the history of the area,” he says. Adventure World Travel has also committed to a sustainability model to have a positive impact on the communities it visits to protect wildlife and marine life and care for the planet we call home. Managing director Neil Rodgers says all of its tours adhere to the World Animal Protection guidelines whereby all experiences are observational only. “If everyone made a few key changes when travelling such as reducing the consumption of single-use-plastic and making a conscious effort to pick up even just three pieces of rubbish when at a beach or park, purchasing from local artisans to keep their heritage and livelihood alive, as opposed to mass market souvenir stores – together we can make a difference,” he says.
1. Offset your flight; 2. A sk questions about how tour companies support the local economy, employ locals and minimise their impact on the environment; 3. L ook for companies with globally recognised certifications – these include B Corp, Earth Check and Ecotourism; 4. Reduce, refuse, re-use, recycle – same as at home people; 5. Swap your hotel room for a night in a local village; 6. Explore neighbourhood haunts instead of eating in chain restaurants; 7. B uy from local stores and artisans to benefit the community instead of big business.
BNE May/June 2019 | 9
COVER STORY
Love
10 | BNE May/June 2019
is all around for
Miranda
TAPSELL
The star’s latest film is a celebration of her homeland and the communities that made her who she is today, writes Heather McWhinnie
E
verything you hear about Miranda Tapsell is true,” says Gwilym Lee, her co-star in the new film Top End Wedding. “She has a kind of infectious spirit. She’s got such beautiful energy about herself. She’s a little pocket rocket,” he says. It’s true that Tapsell has been a driving force behind the film and its setting in the Northern Territory where the award-winning actress grew up. She not only stars in the film, she also shares the writing credit and is an associate producer. It has been a passion project for Tapsell, lasting five years from script development to screen, and in the meantime she has found her real life love, writer James Colley, whom she married in a similarly intimate and informal ceremony before family and friends in December last year. “I wrote Top End Wedding before I met James. So it was just a coincidence – I didn’t think in a million years when I was writing it that I was going to get my own,” she said following her wedding. It was, however, another unexpected partnership that gave birth to Top End Wedding. Tapsell loves romantic comedies and found a fellow fan in writer Joshua Tyler when they were teaching acting and screenwriting classes to aspiring students. During lunchtime conversations about Sleepless in Seattle, Four Weddings and a Funeral, Two Weeks Notice and other classics of the genre Tapsell also shared stories about where she grew up and in no time an idea was hatched. The pair were already drafting the script when they decided to take a road trip to the Northern Territory so that Tyler could get to see it through Tapsell’s eyes. “We drove around, took pictures and I got to share with him what I knew, because it’s one thing to talk about it in the bright lights of the city but it’s another to be immersed in that environment,” says Tapsell. The trip took them to stand-out sights that became locations for the film, such as Ubirr Rock in Kakadu National Park, Nitmiluk Gorge and the Tiwi Islands, and the footage became a teaser pitch to producers for their film. “I was determined I wanted to do a romantic comedy. I thought there’d by a whole lot more after The Sapphires and there’d be these feisty, funny Aboriginal screenplays. It didn’t happen. So I wrote it with Josh. It feels so empowering to make the films you want to see because if you wait for stories to happen they’re not necessarily going to be the stories that you want. “I love romantic comedies so much but I don’t see myself in a lot of the ones I watch. Even eight years on its amazing that The Sapphires is still the go-to film for so many of these communities. I saw a clip on YouTube recently of Yolngu girls from East Arnhem Land lip syncing to ‘Sugar Pie, Honey Bunch’ but that shouldn’t be the only film that gets to celebrate who they are and what they are about, so Top End Wedding is my love letter to the communities that made me who I am today.” Miranda Tapsell in Top End Wedding
It’s really beautiful to see someone who doesn’t look like the stereotypical Hollywood love interest, to see that there’s someone who loves them so much that they’re willing to go above and beyond Tapsell is eager for audiences to see how love and beauty cross all barriers. When she won two Logie Awards as a ‘new talent’ in her role on Love Child, Tapsell’s acceptance speech which called for more beautiful people of colour to be seen on screen received resounding cheers, and with Top End Wedding she’s practising what she preaches. “I hope what people take away from Top End Wedding when they see it is that it’s not just the Meg Ryans, Drew Barrymores and Reese Witherspoons that deserve love and respect because that’s what I’m very aware of about this genre, it doesn’t have many brown people in it and I’m really keen to show that. It’s really beautiful to see someone who doesn’t look like the stereotypical Hollywood love interest, to see that there’s someone who loves them so much that they’re willing to go above and beyond, where there is no doubt that they want to be with that woman. “It was really important to have black beauty celebrated. I want Aboriginal women to watch this.” Tapsell herself has been recognised as one of Australia’s Most Beautiful People in the annual list published by Who magazine. According to the magazine’s Stacey Hicks the candidates were chosen because their beauty goes beyond what they look like. “They are all strong, powerful and confident … they are genuinely beautiful people not just in looks, but in personality.” Tapsell grew up an only child, born in Darwin and raised in Jabiru near Kakadu where school holidays were filled with swimming, camping and bushwalking and home was filled with visiting cousins, aunts and uncles, but she was taunted through school. “My parents always encouraged me to be proud of growing up in the Territory and being Aboriginal but I was challenged a lot about why I said I was Aboriginal when I had a nonAboriginal dad, and I often got asked when was I going to grow (Tapsell is 150cm). Performing allowed me to embrace those parts of myself that others perhaps saw as a detriment and a lot of people saw me come out of my shell because of being on stage. They saw a side of me that was more than what they limited me to and I enjoyed that part of it,” she says. From performing for her family in the lounge room and joining the local tap dance group Tapsell has gone on to see her latest work recognised before an international audience –Top End Wedding had its world premiere at the prestigious Sundance Film Festival in the US. The film, she says, is everything she wanted it to be. “I’m extraordinarily proud of what I’ve done and I can’t wait to do more,” she says. Top End Wedding is in cinemas now BNE May/June 2019 | 11
STYLE
Booty call
Presley Natural Snake $259.95
Find Tony Bianco stores at Indooroopilly and Chermside Shopping Centres, Brisbane; Robina and Pacific Fair, Gold Coast; Myer Brisbane City, Carindale and Pacific Fair, Gold Coast; and online at www.tonybianco.com Maya Stepper photographed in New York City by Deniz Alaca 12 | BNE May/June 2019
Whatever the weather, you can’t walk through winter without a pair of boots and Tony Bianco’s latest collection is aptly named Wild Heart for its collision of inspiration between old west and urban modernity.
Presley black croc $259.95
Darci Black Hi-Shine $249.95
Scout Tan Arizona $269.9 Stefani Natural Kid Sued
e $399.95
5
Look closely and you’ll see western shapes in a range of rich, earthy suedes and polished leathers, featuring intricate stitching, toe cap details, plays on heel shape and harness details that pay tribute to a time of outlaws and wild west folklore.
Wild Natural Suede $3
49.95
In contrast, an animal vibe lets loose in croc-embossed leathers and natural snake patterns throughout. These are the game changers for a style well-tread.
Troi Milk Capretto $239.95 BNE May/June 2019 | 13
ESCAPE
SAFARI IN
Botswana
John Rosenthal gets a little too close for comfort to wandering elephants while finding much more than the Big Five on safari in Africa
P
ut your shoes on.” “What?” asks my wife Lisa, who has just woken me from a peaceful sleep to hear the sounds of a three-metre tall elephant thrashing through the trees outside our tent. “Put your shoes on,” I repeat. “If we have to bail out of this tent in a hurry, we don’t want to be running through the bush barefoot.” I’m not concerned about the elephant attacking us. We’ve spent the past three days watching literally thousands of these massive creatures graze and browse all kinds of vegetation. They haven’t shown the least bit of interest in us. What does trouble me, however, is the prospect of a heavy tree branch falling on the tent and crushing us. For while the elephants have been docile towards us humans, they’ve been hell on the trees, truncating most of them at about 2.5 metres high, and simply knocking down others that displease them. It’s four in the morning, and we’re standing in our pajamas and our trail shoes, wondering whether there’s literally about to be an elephant in the room. He’s so close to the other side of the flimsy piece of canvas that separates us that I can smell him. Through the tent’s mesh window, the full moon shines a spotlight on him as he edges still closer to the tent.
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The elephant’s trunk brushes lightly against the tent as he reaches for more branches, his eye meeting mine in the moonlight. Like all the other elephants we encountered during the daylight, he seems almost oblivious to our existence. And with good reason. If he wanted to, he and his seven tonnes could crush us like bugs. I can feel myself holding my breath, so I make a conscious effort to relax and inhale deeply. Our comfortable tent is equipped with not only a sink and toilet, but also an air horn we can sound if ever we feel in danger. I think about using it, but decide against it for fear that the noise might frighten the elephant into becoming aggressive. Plus, we don’t want to be the folks who woke up the entire camp because they were afraid of an elephant. Not that anybody else was sleeping through all that ruckus. Elephants aren’t exactly known for their stealth. If something gets in their way, they simply trample it. When the elephant tires of the browse nearest our tent, he proceeds to the foliage surrounding the people in the adjacent tent. I breathe a sigh of relief, as Lisa turns to me, still incredulous. “Holy crap,” we say almost in unison. “An elephant practically came into our tent.” The next morning, I look at the foliage above the tent and realise there aren’t any branches that could have plummeted onto our heads. Other elephants had long since stripped them away.
Mwamo, one of the guides, smiled at the foolish tourist when I told him of our plan to evacuate. He said we needn’t have worried; he’d never seen a tent felled by an elephant. But he added it was a good thing we didn’t leave the tent. Dead centre in one of the elephant’s 50cm diameter footprints were the tell-tale paw prints of the leopards that had also visited our camp later that night. Not far away were fresh tracks left by the hyenas that live in a nearby den. Apparently, there was a lot more nightlife in the Okavango Delta than I knew. Whatever embarrassment I feel at having been such a scaredy-cat the night before is immediately erased by the thought of seeing leopards. We chose Botswana because of its rich and abundant variety of wildlife, and we haven’t been disappointed. We spent the first three days of our safari at a lodge just outside Chobe National Park, where we lost count of all the zebras, hippos, cape buffalo, and giraffes (surprisingly well camouflaged for five-metre tall animals), not to mention warthogs, wildebeest and five different kinds of antelopes.
Clockwise from opposite page: A game drive from Muchenje Safari Lodge, Chobe; zebras near Muchenje; hippos (Jason Dutton-Smith); impala in Chobe National Park (Shutterstock); the bar at Muchenje Safari Lodge, Chobe; elephants at Chobe National Park. (Muchenje Safari Lodge images supplied.)
But we didn’t spot any leopards, and we only saw lions during the waning hours of that stay thanks to some quick and decisive tracking by our first guide, Lipps. He was just as frustrated as we were that we hadn’t seen any cats so, on our final game drive, he made it his mission to speed by all the garden-variety grass-eaters in search of predators. After a pre-dawn breakfast of porridge and coffee, we headed out in the cool early morning but two hours of driving around produced only more herbivores. As the African sun started rising and we started shedding our outer layers, we were ready to concede that it was getting too hot for lions to prowl. I saw Lipps register the disappointment on the faces in the truck. Just then, however, he crossed paths with a guide from another camp, who said he heard chatter about a pair of lions just down the road. We followed him for about 90 metres before he stops and turns around. “What are you doing, man?” exclaimed Lipps. “Can’t you see the tracks?” he cried, pointing down at the sandy soil. He drove maybe 15 metres past the other guide and motioned to a spot across the Chobe River. Two adolescent male lions were on the Namibia side, deciding where to cross. They plunged into the slow-moving water with the same relish as my Labrador retriever does, and swam across the river faster than Michael Phelps. Back on land on the Botswana side, they headed directly at us. The rival guide recovered from his shame and followed us to this spot, but other than him and his charges, there was nobody else around. The only sound I heard was the beating of my heart as the lions padded towards our vehicle. But they weren’t interested in us; lions tend to view vehicles as one very large tin can, rather than as six fish in a barrel. One of the lions passed in front of the jeep, the other went around the back, and they both disappeared into the thicket as quickly as they emerged. We’ll see another dozen lions on our trip, but none with the urgency that these two teenagers possessed. All the others we encounter are sleeping the day away, unconcerned about where they lie, taking full advantage of their title as king of the jungle. BNE May/June 2019 | 15
The wild dogs we find later that afternoon are another story. They too are sleeping in a meadow when our vehicle first rolls up on them. However, unlike the lions, they never completely relax. At least one of them always seems to have a round ear cocked. As the sun’s heat started to relent all three of them stir, shaking their heads to clear the cobwebs and yawning to reveal an impressive set of canines. We follow them around a bend, where they join up with several of their compatriots and begin making preparations to scare up dinner. There are 19 in all, 12 adults and seven puppies just old enough to join the hunting party. In theory, anyway. In size, the puppies look like three-quarter versions of their adult parents. But in demeanor, they’re little different than domesticated pups. Instead of stealing quietly through the bush, they yelp, wrestle with one another, run around in aimless circles, and lag so far behind the pack leaders that other dogs have to come back from the front to round them up. The lead dogs constitute an impressive operation, communicating silently how they should split up in order to flank and surround their prey. And if the puppies can keep up, I have no doubt we will be witness to a gruesome kill. Mwamo recounts a night earlier in the week when the same pack eviscerated an impala right in front of the dinner table, to the awe – and later, disgust – of the previous guests. This evening, though, the puppies simply will not co-operate; they refuse to be anything other than puppies. I can see the Darwinian calculation going on in the lead dog’s head: keep hunting and eat well tonight, or go hungry but make sure a laggard pup isn’t caught by lions. In the end, they choose the latter. We, on the other hand, face no such tough choices. As dusk begins to gather, it’s time for our favorite ritual of the trip: the sundowner. We hop out of the truck at a quiet meadow overlooking the river and Mwamo opens up a cooler full of drinks. The heat and the need to ward off malaria are excuse enough for a round of gin and tonics. After that, it’s back to camp for a homey, family-style dinner, and maybe another cocktail while sitting around the wood-burning fire, where the conversation returns to the elephantine excitement of the night before. Then it’s early to bed so we can do it all over again.
Image: Jason Dutton-Smith
ESCAPE
Khwai Tented Camp
GETTING THERE Emirates and Singapore Airlines fly to ports in South Africa where connections can be made to Botswana
WHERE TO STAY
Khwai Tented Camp (left) is set within the Okavango’s community-run Khwai Concession on the other side of Chobe. Accommodation is in six ensuite (toilets and sinks) tents dotted along a lagoon. As Khwai is a community-run concession all proceeds from tourism go directly to help the local people and projects through the Khwai Community Trust and the staff and their hospitality made this a memorable stay. For more information see www.africanbushcamps.com
16 | BNE May/June 2019
Text: published under license from welltravelled.media
Muchenje Safari Lodge (right), situated inside the Chobe Forest Reserve, offers luxury accommodation in 11 thatched cottages with indoor plumbing, air conditioning and a pool with views of the Chobe and Caprivi flood plain. For more information see www.muchenje.com
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Brisbane International Airport Departures and Arrivals stores NOW OPEN
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ESCAPE
WINTER IN
Sapporo
Kerry Heaney travels off-peak to Hokkaido and finds five fun ways to stay warm in the chilly climate Like a wild northern child, Hokkaido tops Japan geographically to offer visitors outstanding skiing, along with geothermal springs and spectacular seasonal scenery to explore. Japan’s second largest and least developed island has plenty for nature lovers and, with four distinct seasons, there is always a reason to return. In Spring cherry blossoms bloom and there’s a month-long tulip festival, Kamiyubetsu tulip matsuri, in May; Summer sees the island’s pleasant climate and green wilderness attract Japanese who want to escape the warm, humid weather of southern areas; in Autumn the leaf fall in Hokkaido is dramatic around mid-October which is also a great month to go hiking through the national parks. It is also the time for Hokkaido’s largest food festival, the Sapporo Autumn Fest, offering a chance to taste your way around the region’s local specialities. In Winter moisture from the Sea of Japan hits cold winds from Siberia to create the ultimate dry fluffy snow, making Hokkaido one of the best powder skiing destinations in the world. There are many other ways to enjoy Winter in the region, including diving under drift ice for extreme thrillseekers, but you don’t have to go far outside your comfort zone for a fun adventure in this snowy wonderland.
Sapporo Snow Festival
Barbecue after snowmobile tour
The auhor at Ninja Do
1 LEARN THE SKILLS OF A NINJA Like the covert actions of the ninja in the times of the feudal lords, the location of the Ninja Do training hall is kept secret to confuse their enemies. ‘Trainees’ meet at the Sapporo Tourist Information Centre to be transported to the destination and we arrive kerbside to be greeted by a man dressed head-to-toe in black and ushered into an unmarked building, straight down the stairs to a basement door with a large lock on the outside. The moves are all very mysterious and slightly dramatic, like we are extras in an episode of Monkey Magic (a classic Japanese television series from the 1970s and ’80s shown alongside The Goodies and Roger Ramjet). First there’s a lot of clothing to put on and tie up. Pants, top, headband and wrist guards and then, at least, I looked like a ninja! All I needed was a sword, but first I had to learn to walk silently and swiftly like a ninja, blow a dart into a target (fail), throw a ninja star into a target (fail) and escape from my enemies through hidden doors (pass). When I finally got my hands on a sword, I was schooled on drawing it from its sheath and standing ready to pounce. My tip is to select a sword that is shorter, not longer, than your arms! See www.hokkaido-ninjado.com
2 FISH ON A FROZEN RIVER Smelt fishing is a popular pastime in Sapporo during Winter when the Barato River ices over. Visitors can hire snow pants, boots and fishing gear. Tents and chairs are provided next to the ice holes to make it quite cosy but you do need to rug up for this one. Although smelt fishing is not easy at first, once you get the hang of baiting the rods with the tiny grubs and lowering the bait to the right level in the water, it’s quite rewarding. Even better, the fishing guides will cook your catch tempura-style at the end of the session, so there’s a mini fish feast for all. See www.h-takarajima.com
3 TAKE A SNOWMOBILE TOUR
Images: Main, smelt fishing and ramen, Japan National Tourism Organisation; Ramen Alley, tkyszk/Shutterstock.com
Snowmobile Land Sapporo takes groups of riders out into the mountainous forest for an hour to experience real snow wilderness. I felt confident handling the snowmobile, but a practice session around a curvy course helped hone my cornering skills. It is an easy route even for novices as the group departs and continues in one long follow-the-leader line. Driving through the snow while large, fat flakes drift down from above is exhilarating. Wearing the snow pants, boots, jacket and helmet provided, and with heat pads in my pockets, I felt invincible against the cold. Afterwards, we cooked lunch on a barbecue outside a real igloo (there’s an option to cook inside too). See www.snowmobilelandsapporo.com
Ramen
Ramen Alley
4 DISCOVER RAMEN ALLEY After a day out in the snow and ice, nothing warms your bones like a large bowl of ramen, the soup-based Japanese dish with noodles and different toppings which often comes with side dishes such as gyoza (dumplings). Sapporo’s Ramen Yokocho is a narrow, covered alleyway which has grown from seven ramen shops in 1951 to 17 shops today. Each restaurant has its menu in the window, and you can see the chefs inside preparing the food. Sapporo is the birthplace of miso ramen, but a seafood broth is also very popular. Not only is the soup filled with flavour and freshly made, it is also reasonably priced. I paid just over $12 for a big bowl of soup and a side of potsticker dumplings. Seating is at a long narrow bench right in front of the ‘kitchen’ so you can see everything the chef does. See www.ganso-yokocho.com
5 CLIMB AN ICE CASTLE The Sapporo Snow Festival each February is a spectacular sight of hundreds of elaborate ice sculptures, seen by millions of visitors to the city’s Odori Park every year, but just out of town the smaller scale Chitose and Lake Shikotsu Ice Festival also sees a magical kingdom of sculptures created on the lake banks by spraying water from the second deepest lake in Japan (363 metres). It’s cold, think -8°Celsius, as you walk through ice tunnels and climb ice stairs to the top of the ice castle. There is also an ice rink and a slide which are obvious favourites with excited children. During the day the ice festival creations glisten with a light blue colour in the sunlight. At night coloured lights turn the whole festival into a Winter wonderland. The festival has an eating area, but there are plenty of places to get a bite in the village before you walk down the hill to the lake. The festival at the lake is on from late January to mid-February each year and takes place about 40 minutes drive from Sapporo. On weekends and holidays you also may see fireworks or a Japanese taiko drumming performance. There are also hot springs nearby open to day visitors. See www.sapporo.travel/event/winter/lake-shikotsu-ice-festival Find out more ways to enjoy Hokkaido at http://en.visit-hokkaido.jp/
Tempura smelt
GETTING THERE
Smelt fishing on the frozen river
Qantas flies direct between Brisbane and Tokyo daily where there are more than 80 flights daily to Sapporo BNE May/June 2019 | 19
ESCAPE
STAY
small
Tiny houses have become a popular choice for travellers who want to explore the environment but keep their footprint small. As the trend picks up momentum more tiny houses are popping up on properties from the country to the coast and they pack plenty of character into their small frames. Here are 10 of the best to try … 1. CABN, KANGAROO VALLEY, NSW AND ADELAIDE HILLS, SA These tiny eco-friendly retreats are hidden in rugged bushland, sleep up to five (depending on your cosy quotient), have air conditioning and kitchenette for cooking or food packages can be added. There’s an outdoor fire pit to toast marshmallows and indoor heating at each but at ‘Arabella’ in Kangaroo Valley there’s a separate freestanding bathtub enclosed in its own glass cube to let the outside in. See www.cabn.life
2. UNYOKED, NSW AND VICTORIA Environmental warriors and twin brothers Cam and Chris Grant have set up six eco-friendly cabins, three in NSW (Southern Highlands and Lower Hunter) and three in Victoria (the wine-growing region of the Pyrenees Mountains and the Kyneton region west of Melbourne) where natureloving explorers can experience minimalist stays in the wilderness. That means solar power, composting toilets and, in some cases, no mobile reception. Cabins sleep two people. Channel your inner Bear Grylls. See www.unyoked.co 20 | BNE May/June 2019
Arabella CABN, Kangaroo Valley
6. TALLAROOK TINY HOME, SOUTH COAST, NSW This is the mini-me of an architecturally-designed home – polished wood floors, breakfast bar with river views, electric oven, full size refrigerator, ceiling fans and a deck, nestled in native bushland on the Clyde River on the South Coast of NSW (above). Immerse yourself in the natural beauty of the 20-hectare property with hikes, wildlife spotting, swimming or kayaking in the river (kayaks are provided) or get the yoga mat out on the deck, read a book or fire up the (Weber) barbie. Surf beaches are nearby. See www.tallarooktinyhome.com
7. NOOK DIVINE, BERRIMA, NSW
3. IN2THEWILD, NSW Chances are you’ll never have the same experience as anyone else staying in one of the In2thewild tiny homes (above) because these pop-ups are placed in temporary out-of-the-way locations about two hours from Sydney which remain secret until after booking. The petite, portable houses are named after the owners’ favourite book characters, and kitted out with hot shower and toilet, bedding for four people and a fire pit with outdoor seating. Your adventure could take you anywhere from Lake Macquarie to Shoalhaven. See www.in2thewild.co
Tucked in the historic town of Berrima in the Southern Highlands, Nook Divine is a quaint cottage with large deck, just a short walk to restaurants, museums, shopping, historic Berrima courthouse and more. Rich in history, Nook Divine shares a pretty landscaped property with the former Finlayson Memorial Presbyterian church circa 1867, now a private residence. Inside there’s a queen-sized bed, full kitchen, and plenty of thoughtful essentials such as fresh flowers, milk, leaf tea and luxury hand soap. See www.nookdivine.com
4. KINDLED, OBERON, NSW The tiny house sleeps up to four and sits on 100 hectares of land beside pristine gum tree conservation and the river in the Oberon Shire, about three hours west of Sydney. Look out for kangaroos, wombats and plenty of birdlife. The well-equipped dwelling has modern comforts including luxury bedding, air conditioning, soft linens and rain shower. See www.kindled.com.au
5. HALE DOUGLAS, SUNSHINE BEACH, QLD
Images: Destination NSW and Airbnb
The owners built this tiny cabin (below) inspired by their wedding travels in Hanalei Bay, Hawaii and its mood is boho surf. It sits in a secluded corner of the property away from the main house which is occupied by the owners and their friendly dog. Hale Douglas has been built of mostly reclaimed and repurposed building materials, has floor to ceiling louvred windows, a skylight that can be opened, kitchenette and bathroom, and ladder access to the loft bed. It’s close to the beach and restaurants. Find it on www.airbnb.com.au
8. 6SIXTEEN THE BANKS, WESTERN SYDNEY, NSW Not far from the cafés of Windsor, Kurrajong village and Glenbrook 6Sixteen (above) sits on a farm at Agnes Banks, Greater Western Sydney. With a plush loft bedroom and comfy pull-out sofa bed there’s enough room for a family of four and open spaces to soak up the views and the backdrop of the Blue Mountains. Adventurers will find ziplining and treetop adventures at Grose River Park, whitewater rafting and Blue Mountains hiking all in the vicinity. Find it on www.airbnb.com
9. THE LOFT, MUDGEE, NSW Perched on the edge of the Cudgegong Valley on a rural property just 12 minutes from Mudgee, The Loft is a rustic eco home for two with a chic Nordic-style interior. Italian-brewed coffee is provided as well as a range of teas, and a small library of books, magazines and games replaces WiFi and TV. Search The Loft at www.wildescapes.com.au
10. THE SURF SHACK, BYRON BAY, NSW Just 10 minutes drive from the heart of Byron Bay and a short stroll to Suffolk Park beach, this tiny home sits at the back of the owner’s house, with a private gate entry down the side and quiet garden to enjoy. Inside there’s a full kitchen and loft bed, and the owner is happy to help with advice on beaches, restaurants and more. See www.airbnb.com.au BNE May/June 2019 | 21
ESCAPE
Tea Break
Cath Johnsen takes a road trip from Cairns and finds herself in the middle of Queensland’s own tropical tea trail
L
ooking rather like an oversized possum but with a longer tail, a fluffy tree kangaroo looks up at me with wide brown eyes. Hurriedly, I replace my tea cup in the saucer and grapple for my phone to take a picture of the elusive local. Startled by my movement, it bounds off and deftly hoists itself into the highest boughs of the nearest tree. Often thought to be a myth, native Lumholtz’s tree kangaroo Lumholtz’s tree kangaroos are real, but are difficult to spot in the wild unless, of course, like me you happen to be sitting at the Nerada Tea Plantation and Visitor Centre near Malanda, about 90 minutes drive from Cairns, enjoying a refreshing cup of the local brew while admiring the view. Here, a family of tree kangaroos has taken up residence and been delighting visitors for years, says plantation director Tony Poyner who is also a long-time resident on the property and can’t imagine a better place to work. “Our farmland is surrounded by world-heritage national park, Mount Bartle Frere (the highest mountain in Queensland) and rolling hills with grazing cattle so it’s a pristine environment,” he says proudly. “We let the rain irrigate our crops, we don’t spray them with pesticides, and we are a single origin tea. The end result is a very clean, aromatic and honest tea, with a robust taste but no bitterness,” 22 | BNE May/June 2019
Nerada’s sustainable approach to farming, with a focus on the wellbeing of its staff as well as its environment, has earned it recognition as a Rainforest Alliance Certified operator. When I visit, the tea processing factory is abuzz with activity – loads of green Camellia Sinensis tea leaves are being deposited into withering bins to allow the moisture to evaporate, before being shredded to release their enzymes and then oxidised and dried to create the dark brown tea leaves that fill our cups. From my vantage point on the public viewing platform, I can see the tender leaves being crushed and cut to release their juices, resulting in the distinctive tea flavours. “Tea making does have a lot of science behind it because it will react in a certain way under certain conditions such as moisture, temperature, humidity and every other parameter you can think of, but ironing out those day-to-day and hour-to-hour parameters to ensure the flavour profile stays consistent … that is an art,” Poyner says. Location is also important. The high altitude, cooler temperatures and rich, volcanic soil of the Atherton Tablelands means the tea plants are slower growing and healthier, allowing essential oils to build in the leaves. Nerada Tea travels from the farm fields to supermarket shelves within as little as four weeks but visitors to the plantation Visitor Centre have the advantage of being able to sample the factory fresh brew and other varieties that can only be purchased online or at the plantation – teas such as the lighter Royal Devonshire or the strong and bold Colonial Brew. “You can taste the freshness of our teas,” Poyner says. “As tea ages, the taste changes. It mellows and the ‘wow’ factor will diminish. Like all produce, fresh is best.”
WHERE TO STAY It’s possible to tackle this itinerary within a day’s drive from Cairns, but there’s plenty to fill a longer visit to the tablelands. Linger longer at one of these overnight lodgings.
Tony Poyner at Nerada Tea Plantation
Poyner, who confesses to enjoying four or five cups of tea per day, is also Nerada’s chief tea tester, ensuring the quality of the Nerada tea brand. His tea tasting method is not high tech but reflects his years of experience. To demonstrate, Poyner places a scoop of tea leaves into a small spoutless pot, adds boiling water and allows the infusion to steep. After a few minutes, he pours the black tea into a cup and noisily slurps the liquid, to draw it across the palate. “I always taste the tea black and I’m checking for consistency across every cup,” he says. “The depth of colour is important too, and the aroma.” As he tests each sample, he offers me some expert tea tips. “Don’t continually boil the water as it deoxygenates it,” he says between slurps. “And if possible, try to use rain water, or water without chlorine. It really does make a difference.” Nerada is the largest tea grower in Australia but they’re not the only tea farm making the most of the region’s optimal growing conditions. Ulysses Tea, named after the famed blue butterflies that inhabit the tablelands, is also grown locally and features on the menu at the nearby Lake Barrine Teahouse. Only a 15-minute drive from the Nerada Estate, the teahouse is one of a few local retailers selling the boutique tea, which is not available in supermarkets or online. With the credentials of serving Devonshire teas since the 1930s, the Lake Barrine Teahouse matches the locally sourced tea with fluffy scones and homemade raspberry and plum jam. I take a seat on their outdoor terrace, overlooking the freshwater lake and rainforest, where a few raucous pelicans are the only disruption to the peaceful scene. Sipping on my cuppa, I’m struck by the rawness of the tea’s taste but find it milder in flavour than the Nerada cup. Visitors also flock to Lake Barrine to relax on the sedate boat cruises (tickets available at the café) and to tackle the lakeside hiking tracks that get walkers up close to giant kauri trees, towering red cedars and flowering umbrella trees in the protected rainforest. Back on the road, the circuit of Malanda, Millaa Millaa, Ellinjaa and Zillie waterfalls is a worthy detour, especially after rain. While that could be a day tour in itself my tea trail continues south, along the Palmerston Highway which leads to the zigzagging green fields of the Nucifora Tea
The Canopy Treehouses (www.canopytreehouses.com.au) are only 15 minutes south of Malanda and set in ancient rainforest which is home to cassowaries and an abundance of wildlife. Eden House Retreat (www.edenhouse.co) or Allumbah Pocket Cottages (www.allumbahpocketcottages.com.au) offer boutique accommodation in the quaint town of Yungaburra, 15 minutes north of Malanda, and walking distance to shops and restaurants.
plantation at Palmerston. There’s a self-service roadside stall where I pick up a packet of their loose leaf tea, only available at the farm (although their teabags are available in major supermarkets). It, too, is pesticide-free, full-bodied with a rich colour and taste, similar in profile to Nerada Tea. When I visit, the Nucifora tea company is constructing a teahouse on the property, due to open later this year, with plans to offer Devonshire teas, farm tours and tea tastings. In the meantime, the Mamu Tropical Skywalk is not far away and beckons for a walk. Located in the Wooroonooran National Park, about 30 minutes west of Innisfail, a cantilevered walkway reaches over the treetops and a 37-metre-high viewing deck gives a bird’s eye view over the spectacular volcanic gorge. The park is in the Wet Tropics World Heritage area that covers almost 9000 square kilometres of north east Queensland and during my visit, not surprisingly, it is humid and wet with cicadas and tropical birds chirping and singing noisily and happily. I’m told resident cassowaries are often seen foraging for insects on the rainforest floor, although I’m not lucky enough to spot one. The drive back to Cairns takes me past sugarcane fields and rows and rows of banana trees but my final pit-stop is at the picturesque Babinda Boulders swimming holes. Crystal-clear water pours continuously down from the mountains over giant granite boulders at the popular spot, but while others splash merrily in the natural pools I fill a water bottle to take back to Cairns for a few more cups of purest, flavoursome tea.
MORE TEA PLEASE A two-hour drive north of Cairns Daintree Tea’s Cubbagudta plantation is on Cape Tribulation Road at Diwan, surrounded by Daintree Rainforest, where visitors can stop at its roadside stall to buy a souvenir of farm-fresh tea and look at photos and old machinery on display. Tea connoisseurs will enjoy the smooth and mild taste of this unblended and pesticide-free tea which is also available online and in selected supermarkets on Queensland’s east coast.
GETTING THERE Jetstar, Qantas, Tigerair and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Cairns daily
Opposite page: Nucifora Tea Plantation. Left: Swimming at Millaa Millaa Falls and the Mamu Tropical Skywalk. Images Tourism and Events Queensland. BNE May/June 2019 | 23
ESCAPE EXTRA DINE ON A DUNE AT ULURU
V
oyages Ayers Rock Resort has launched its annual Tali Wiru dining experience overlooking Uluru for another season. Tali Wiru means ‘beautiful dune’ in local Pitjantjatjara language and the four-hour dinner does, indeed, take place on a remote dune overlooking The Rock and distant domes of Kata Tjuta, serving up innovative dishes that showcase local bush tucker as the sun goes down and a storyteller shares tales of Indigenous culture under the southern night sky. Tali Wiru is on daily until 15 October 2019 and is limited to just 20 guests each evening. Cost, from $375 per person includes return hotel transport. For details see www.ayersrockresort.com.au/tali-wiru
Sweet dreamsARE MADE ON THIS Four out of five travellers reported they have trouble sleeping when staying away from home in a recent survey, but there’s a fix for that. Following their own experiences of disrupted sleep and delayed recovery in transit, frequent travellers, good friends and young mums Danielle Knight and Shea Morrison formed The Goodnight Co to share their tips and remedies. They started with products such as silk pillows, a specially blended Goodnight Tea, spray mists, essential oils and specially curated sleep ritual kits and the popularity of those products has led them to create a Sleep Retreat. Knight and Morrison (below) will host a twonight weekend stay in the urban oasis of The Calile Hotel in Fortitude Valley to focus on wellness and sleep education, with the help of a team including a clinical naturopath, yoga, breathing and meditation instructors, to help guests overcome issues like jet lag, late nights and busy schedules while travelling. The Goodnight Co Sleep Retreat 7-9 June at The Calile Hotel, 48 James Street, Fortitude Valley. Cost from $2500 (single), $4500 (twin share) includes accommodation, meals, workshops, yoga and meditation sessions. See www.thegoodnightco.com.au
Jetstar flies direct between Brisbane and Uluru
10
TOP REASONS to visit Vivid Sydney
Sydney puts on its brightest arts and entertainment festival from 24 May until 15 June. Make a quick getaway to be inspired by illuminating ideas, performances and installations.
1
risbane’s Propaganda Mill creatives will once again be in the B spotlight with two grand projections in a program of more than 400 things to see, hear and do.
2
xplore a festival within a festival: from the Audiocraft Podcast E Festival to Freshflix Film Festival, Semi-Permanent to Sydney Film Festival.
3 4
xperience more than 10 electronic and indie music acts in one E day at Curve Ball, Carriageworks, Eveleigh.
5
troll over Sydney Harbour Bridge to experience City Sparkle, S an unforgettable view of Sydney Harbour lit up by thousands of LED lights and projections.
op on the train to Chatswood and play the giant Cascading H Harp (by Propaganda Mill) made of hollow metallic spheres. Be inspired by the traditional sounds of Tibetan meditation tunes or create your own joyful song of positivity and hope. While you are there, be immersed in the super-sized Trumpet Flowers. Jump on giant trumpet keys at the centre of the floral forest to make your own spectacular sound and light show.
6 7
ly through the night sky on Volaré, Luna Park’s newest ride, F described as a “magical wave swinger”.
8
arm up with a little exercise – take on the Sydney Harbour W Bridge Climb at dusk and catch Lights On from a prime vantage point from 6pm each evening.
9
njoy Sydney’s diverse and delicious restaurant scene and Vivid E Sydney inspired menus. Try $1 dumplings at The Argyle, Vivid Sydney inspired teppanyaki at Kobe Jones or a $19 take-out box from No.1 Bent Street then top it off with a glow in the dark cocktail at Opera Bar.
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ee the largest puppet constructed in Australia at Barangaroo. S The glowing giant Marri Dyin, meaning ‘Great Woman’ in Sydney Aboriginal language, will hunt and gather along Wulungul Walk each evening from Thursday to Sunday.
heck out some of the most ambitious and innovative local and C international artists performing at the Sydney Opera House as part of Vivid LIVE, including American synth-pop star Maggie Rogers and legendary jazz ground-breaker Herbie Hancock.
Jetstar, Tigerair, Qantas and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Sydney several times daily
24 | BNE May/June 2019
View the full program at www.vividsydney.com
Hudson Yards opens in NYC In New York everybody’s talking about Hudson Yards, the new $25 billion mega-development above the west side rail yards that includes a cluster of skyscrapers, public plazas, a new art space called The Shed and the 45-metre high ‘art installation’ temporarily called The Vessel (left). While The Vessel waits for a more formal name to be decided by public competition visitors can walk all over the $150 million structure, a honeycomb network of 154 flights of stairs, 2,500 steps and 80 landings that rise 16 stories above the plaza. Luxury fitness club empire Equinox will open its first hotel on the site, at 35 Hudson Yards, in June. Naturally there’s an emphasis on health and wellbeing, from the sleep-focused interior design of the rooms to the largest-ever-built Equinox Fitness Club on site, performance-driven menus and even access to in-room IV vitamin drips. Visiting Aussies who just can’t leave their avo on toast behind will love that one of New York’s favourite coffee shops has also moved in to the precinct. Expat Australian Nick Stone’s super successful Bluestone Lane is on Level 3, 20 Hudson Yards, offering its own wellness menu of organic teas, chai lattes, tasty toasties, great coffee as we know it, and more. Air Canada flies direct between Brisbane and Vancouver where onward connections can be made to New York
Image: Destination NSW
BNE May/June 2019 | 25
I
QUEENSLAND
Melissa Downes TV News presenter
Where do you live? My husband (D-J Wendt, producer of The Ten Tenors) and I have always lived in inner city suburbs, we love being close to everything and although sometimes we dream of a bigger backyard, I don’t think we’ll ever leave. We’re close to the river, which I love … Brisbane really is a city best seen from the river, and we have so many lovely walkways, we’re spoilt with options.
What would you recommend to visitors? Taking a ride on a CityCat is a must for anyone visiting Brisbane. It’s the best way to see our city and the surrounding suburbs … and that breeze is a very welcome relief on a hot day. I think Howard Smith Wharves is a brilliant new contender for a great day out in Brisbane with so many bars and restaurants to choose from to suit all needs.
What have been your best discoveries in the area? Sometimes people miss what is right in front of them – we have two amazing art galleries (QAGOMA) and the State Library side by side. When our children (daughters Dee Dee, 8, and Anja, 6) were younger we would be there nearly every week. They always have fantastic children’s workshops and Toddler Tuesdays is a great way to entertain the littlies and introduce them to art, while giving yourself some adult time as well – and it’s free.
Where was your best childhood holiday? As a young child I have very vivid memories of a camping trip at Mount Barney and some giant ants that were trying to bite me! But in my mid-teens it was the yearly summer holiday at the Gold Coast that I loved. There were a few families that holidayed together and we all got on really well. There was always something to do, and someone to do it with!
After you left school you spent a couple of years modelling in Sydney. What brought you back to Brisbane? Education! I had deferred my university studies and while I thoroughly enjoyed my two years in Sydney, I knew at some point I needed to finish my degree.
Image: Shutterstock
The Nine News studio is at Mt Coot-tha. Have you explored “The Mountain” beyond the studio?
26 | BNE May/June 2019
While I was training to walk the Simpson Desert for Youngcare, we hiked on Mt Coot-tha and I suddenly understood why so many people come here for fun! Sometimes when you work at a certain location, you don’t feel like “playing” there but Mt Coot-tha is a glorious place. I met so many interesting people exercising there, one of the more interesting was a support group for men, who found walking together helped ease their stress. The Planetarium is another amazing venue, it really does take to you another world … not to mention the Botanic Gardens. There’s even an art gallery at Mt Coot-tha, the Richard Randall Art Studio. My family once held an exhibition there, with paintings and art from members of the extended Downes clan.
Is there somewhere you enjoy going back to?
What’s a favourite family weekend outdoors? We love getting out on the water. South East Queensland has so many beautiful places to escape, the Gold Coast Broadwater is one of our favourites. On a sunny day, there’s nowhere else in the world that can compare … the water and sand is so clean. We love to go exploring when the tide is low and have found all sorts of sea life including starfish! And we always love trying our hand at fishing and crabbing as well.
Where and how did you meet your husband? We first met playing volleyball, back in the late ’80s. We both played for Queensland and would see each other at various competitions but we didn’t get together until quite a few years later. This year we’ll be celebrating our 22nd wedding anniversary.
What’s a good date night? We’re really lucky, every Wednesday night is date night as the children sleep over with their grandparents. Sometimes it’s lovely just to come home and have the night to ourselves but if we are heading out, we love Persone, the new Gambaro’s family Italian restaurant at Brisbane Quarter, adjacent to the W Hotel. The new Autumn menu is delicious and being able to enjoy a drink on the terrace afterwards is spectacular.
Where’s a favourite place for a family dinner? Now that the AFL footy season is on, our favourite place for a family night out is the Queensland Cricketers’ Club. It was recently renovated and looks very cool, so it’s a real treat to head out for dinner and watch your favourite team play at the same time! The kids love it too, there’s nothing better than running out on the field at the end of the game, especially if the Brisbane Lions have won.
We love heading to Stanthorpe to visit family who live on Storm King Dam. The drive out is beautiful and allows my husband and I to relive the holidays of our youth with a “road trip”, with a stop half way for morning tea. We have a few car games we play with the girls, I think we enjoy the games more than they do! It’s a really beautiful drive as well, the countryside is gorgeous, with the huge boulders – which are also great for adventuring once you’re there. There’s a real freedom there, big open spaces for the kids to play. We just need a bit more rain to fill up the dam at the moment. The cooler temperature is a real treat, it’s the closest place you get to a real Winter in Queensland, there’s even snow sometimes. My nephew is a local winemaker at Bungawarra Winery, so we’re always happy to try some local drops and hear about what the local industry is doing and achieving. I’m not sure everyone realises how much wines from the Granite Belt have improved, we’re always impressed, and you can easily spend a day visiting the cellar doors of the many that are there.
You did a 250km trek across the Simpson Desert in far west Queensland a few years ago to help raise funds for Youngcare. What was the most challenging thing about that? So many aspects of the preparation were difficult – there is the obvious one of actually getting fit enough to walk 35km every day for eight days ... but probably more challenging than that was learning about just how many young people with high care needs are forced to live in Aged Care. It was very inspiring to be so instrumental in changing that situation. Our group of trekkers raised more than $600,000 for Youngcare and it’s a wonderful feeling knowing that you’ve helped change someone’s life. The trek itself was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, walking across the desert, sleeping under the stars. One night the dingoes serenaded us as we slept. I could also tell you stories of deadly snakes, scorpions and killed centipedes but the incredible moments definitely outweighed that.
Is there anywhere in Queensland on your travel bucket list? There are so many amazing places in Queensland and you don’t have to spend money to experience them, but if I was going all out I’d love to stay at Qualia on Hamilton Island. The resort looks amazing and it’s on the doorstep of the Great Barrier Reef – what a perfect combination. In June Melissa Downes celebrates 10 years presenting Nine News Queensland with Andrew Lofthouse, 6pm weeknights on Channel Nine.
Image: Tourism and Events Queensland
Clockwise from main image: Melissa Downes; pool with a view at Qualia, Hamilton Island, is on the wish list; Howard Smith Wharves; food and terrace at Persone, Brisbane Quarter; the family at Stanthorpe. Opposite page: The Gold Coast Broadwater is a favourite weekend outdoors BNE May/June 2019 | 27
TASTE
A TA S T E O F
Scotland’s finest
Shane Batchler’s top picks GLENDRONACH $99 This 10-year-old whisky is hard to find in Australia and has what Batchler describes as a ‘sherry-bomb’ flavour.
THE BALVENIE 12 TRIPLE WOOD $99 Only available in duty free shops, The Balvenie 12-yearold single malt is from a small batch distillery in the whisky heartland of Speyside, Scotland, with a flavour sweet with honey tones, says Batchler.
DALMORE VALOUR $130 Aged in oak sherry casks for 30 years, Dalmore comes in a bottle stamped with a silver stag head. The flavour is sweet, like Christmas cake cherries, says Batchler.
GLENMORANGIE SIGNET $220
Kerry Heaney discovers a whisky specialist who offers an introduction to the world’s best at Brisbane Airport
W
hisky specialist Shane Batchler lives a life that many people dream about. By day he is surrounded by his favourite obsession at Brisbane International Terminal’s Lotte Duty Free Whisky Tasting Bar, and each evening he indulges in a dram from his private collection. Batchler has 325 bottles at home and 30 open for tasting, so he has plenty of options, but confesses that it’s often a whisky that he has been sharing with customers during the day that takes his fancy that evening. “I get some comfy clothes on, load up Netflix and join the two or three friends who are waiting for me at home for a taste of whatever I have been selling the most of during the week,” he says. It was a chance visit to a mate’s house where Batchler sampled the father’s Glenmorangie that sparked his passion and started the then 20-year-old on his whisky journey. After a stint working in the public service, Batchler joined Brisbane Airport’s duty free store three years ago to work at the whisky bar. Now 32, he shares his knowledge with customers, particularly in single malt Scotch Whisky, boosted by his extensive travel in Scotland. Batchler has been to 32 distilleries learning about the cask influences and flavour profiles of his favourite spirit. At Brisbane Airport, international travellers can start their journey in whisky exploration with a crash course at the bar and enjoy up to three free tastings of more than 100 varieties of Scotch before they fly. 28 | BNE May/June 2019
Made with coffee roasted barley. Batchler’s tasting tip is to add a dram to the end of a used espresso cup for a real flavour surprise.
TALISKER NEIST POINT $230 Sea mist from the west coast of Scotland settles over the barrels of this smoky whisky from the Isle of Skye, imparting an unusual salty tinge to the flavour. Batchler suggests novices begin with a sip of Aberlour, which is considered a ‘breakfast’ whisky in Scotland. Batchler starts the ‘tour’ by asking people if they prefer smoky or sweet and then takes the tastings from there. More seasoned whisky drinkers will also find some rare treats in the Lotte collection, including a 38-year-old Brora single malt whisky, available at an impressive $3800 a bottle or a 37-year-old Linkwood single malt whisky priced at a mere $1050 per bottle. Like fine wine a good Scotch whisky can increase in value with age, as Batchler has discovered with his own collection. His most prized item is an eight-year-old Talisker single malt from the 1980s, purchased for $600 five years ago and estimated to have a current value around $3000. While Batchler is a self-confessed collector of mostly single malts from Scotland, he says Australian brands are also popular with travellers looking for gifts and additions to their own collections, including Sullivans Cove and Hellyers Road from Tasmania, and Starward from Victoria. Lotte Duty Free also stocks whiskies from Canada, America and Japan. The Whisky Tasting Bar is at Lotte Duty Free, located on Level 3, Brisbane Airport International Terminal (after security and passport control) and is open for every departing flight. Find out more about duty free shopping at Brisbane Airport at www.bne.com.au/ Follow Kerry Heaney at www.eatdrinkandbekerry.net
What ’s new POLPETTA ITALIAN KITCHEN AND BAR may have opened at one of the
coolest addresses in the city on the ground floor of the Fantauzzo Art Series hotel at Howard Smith Wharves, but its mood is laidback and relaxed with a robust menu of rustic Roman flavours, including the risotto al fungi, tarragon and celeriac cream made with 12-month-aged carnaroli rice (pictured). All pasta is made fresh daily in-house and includes treats such as orecchiette with fish, mussels, saffron and cherry tomato in a white wine butter sauce or fettuccine with zucchini flowers. Meanwhile the orange panna cotta with pistachio biscotti and poached rhubarb is a stand out among the desserts. Steven Herold heads the kitchen and makes the most of local ingredients while drinks, too, have a local flavour, including beer from good neighbour Felons Brewing Co and grappa from Tamborine Mountain. At 5 Boundary Street, Brisbane. Open 7 days, breakfast lunch and dinner. See www.polpetta.com.au
GET ME TO THE GREEK According to Greek super chef Dimitris Katrivesis (left) – who boasts experience at Michelin starred restaurants El Bulli (Spain) and Ryugin (Tokyo) – a great dish is a complex work of art which should appeal to all five senses and, “once devoured, should remain in the memory like a painting, a melody, or a beautiful view”. Want to know what that tastes like? Katrivesis will prepare a Signature Degustation Dinner at Nostimo, South Brisbane, on 15 May (see www.nostimorestaurant.com.au). Then, on 18 and 19 May Katrivesis will join Nostimo’s chefin-residence, David Tsirekas, to show off his Greek yum-cha, a specialty he has perfected at his Athens restaurant, Fuga, and host cooking demonstrations at The Greek Club, 29 Edmondstone Street, South Brisbane. See www.paniyiri.com.au
EL MATADOR has a flair for the dramatic with its humidor filled with aged and cured meats in the Spanish tradition in plain view in the open kitchen, but the menu has an Aussie flavour with hand-picked mud crab, Moreton Bay bugs and Queensland prawns served on ice with salmorejo, aioli and lemon, grilled or baked Fraser Island sand crab, or smashed avo finding its way into breakfast dishes with corn fritters and spicy labneh. There’s a long list of tapas and pinchos to choose from and treats from the humidor, including a cold-smoked salted beef rump from local grass-fed Black Angus Australian beef. In Burnett Lane, behind 15 Adelaide Street, city. Open Monday to Saturday. See www.elmatador.com.au
CORELLA is the new venture by Paul McGivern and Bailee
Dewes (the creatives behind La Lune Wine Co, on Fish Lane, South Brisbane). Callum Gray is head chef and describes his food style as “trying not to over-complicate the plate” by using only a few ingredients that stand out, as seen in dishes such as tomatoes with almond curd and sorrel granita, wagyu with potato terrine, oyster mushroom and bitter greens, or macadamia butter parfait with cereal and feijoa sorbet (pictured). The menu will be changing regularly but there’s also a fixed price three-course menu ($39), a five-course tasting menu ($79) and BYO wine nights every Wednesday. At 62 Logan Road, Woolloongabba. Open for lunch from Thursday to Sunday and dinner from Tuesday to Saturday. See www.facebook.com/corella.restaurant BNE May/June 2019 | 29
TASTE
QUALITY PRODUCE INSPIRES Andy Ashby, head chef at Salon de Co, has created a seasonal menu that is as playfully modern as the quirky surrounds the restaurant inhabits inside the boutique Ovolo Inchcolm hotel. Against a backdrop of brass archways and eclectic collections of art and curios he showcases some of Queensland’s best produce in starters such as salt and vinegar churros with creamy camel milk cheese from the Scenic Rim, Queensland spanner crab and macadamia bite size tartlets, his own take on the Lamington for dessert – iced Daintree chocolate, coated in coconut and topped with Davidson plum – and our favourite, scampi from Tamborine Mountain fresh from the barbecue grill and served with melt-in-the-mouth pork jowl and Queensland blue pumpkin which Ashby shares in the recipe here ...
BBQ SCAMPI, PORK JOWL AND QUEENSLAND BLUE PUMPKIN Serves 4
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
1 Queensland blue pumpkin 100ml maple syrup 100g brown butter 50g miso paste 2kg pork jowl, skin off 1 bunch cime di rapa leaves (turnip top leaves) 400ml sunflower oil 4 shallots 1 garlic bulb 20g pepitas (sunflower seeds) 200g butter melted with a stick of tarragon 100ml crème fraîche 4 scampi, peeled Maldon sea salt and peppermill Small punnet of garlic chive flowers Small punnet of coriander cress
Trim off any unwanted muscle tissue and fat from the pork jowl. Brine the jowl for 2 hours, this method helps to season and relax the protein. If you have access to a sous vide machine set temperature to 82.2 degrees. Wash off the brine and bag the jowl before submerging in the water bath for 12 hours at the set temperature. This method can be done overnight and after the cook press between two trays. Roast the pumpkin at 210 degrees with the maple syrup and seasoning for approximately 1 hour, or until tender. Allow to slightly cool before applying weight on top of the pumpkin to squeeze out all the delicious pumpkin nectar. Remove the flesh with a spoon and add to the brown butter and miso paste, carefully work in a heavy base saucepan and add the crème fraîche. Blend until silky smooth, adjust the seasoning to taste and add a squeeze of lemon juice for balance if needed. Pass the pumpkin nectar through a fine sieve. Wash the cime di rapa leaves under cold water before blanching in hot salted water for 20 seconds, then plunge straight into ice to stop the cooking process. Once cold, pat dry, finely chop and set aside. Peel and finely dice the garlic and shallots. Place small saucepan on the stove and add 150ml sunflower oil, add the onion and garlic and cook at a very low temperature. Heat sunflower oil in a pan until almost smoking, then put in the pepitas and toast until golden. Season with a pinch of cumin powder and sea salt.
Brine recipe 100g table salt 3tbsp mustard seeds ½ bunch thyme 2 tbsp whole peppercorns 2 garlic cloves, crushed 3 bay leaves 1litre iced water
TO SERVE Render down the pork jowl in a non-stick pan until the jowl is golden. Gently warm up the pumpkin nectar consommé, pumpkin crème and the cime di rapa mixed with the confit shallot and garlic. Fire up the barbecue for the scampi tails and brush them with butter before gently cooking over open flame. This will only take 2-3 minutes as the scampi are delicate, and you want them to be tender. Place the cime di rapa mix in the bowl on the right side of your plate, and place the crispy pork jowl on top, then the barbecued scampi with the crushed pepitas. Add a spoon of the pumpkin crème next to your masterpiece. To garnish, add garlic chive flowers and coriander cress, these herbs will only help enhance the flavours of the dish. Be adventurous and entertaining by pouring the consommé at the table allowing the aroma to fill the room with delight – bon appetit! Salon de Co is at the Ovolo Inchcolm boutique hotel, 73 Wickham Terrace, Spring Hill. Open for dinner 7 days from 6pm. Reservations recommended, call 07 3226 8888 or email salondeco@ovolohotels.com
30 | BNE May/June 2019
TOP CHEFS IN SEASONAL MENUS
Winter warmers
New dishes on the menu at these city hotspots … LAMBERTS
Head chef Marcus Turner shows his passion for seafood in a new menu that showcases specialties such as line-caught toothfish, Murray cod, sustainably caught honey bugs and amu-ebi prawns alongside the perennial favourite seafood with house-made fettuccine. Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch and dinner at 21 Lambert Street, Kangaroo Point. See www.lambertsrestaurant.com.au
THE EURO Braised Bangalow pork belly with kimchi salad and nashi pear, Gold Coast tiger prawns, and Brisbane Valley quail are top picks starring local ingredients on the Autumn menu by partners Andrew Gunn (below) and Amélie Rabaud at The Euro while seared scallops with cauliflower puree, miso butter and crispy kale, or grilled octopus salad with black garlic (left) will satisfy seafood lovers. The Euro, 181 Mary Street, city. Open Monday to Friday for lunch and Monday to Saturday for dinner. See www.theeuro.com.au
BACCHUS Crocodile is the star of the autumn menu at Bacchus, cooked sous vide and served with red cabbage puree, toasted macadamia nuts, macadamia nut cream and black sesame seeds. Kangaroo loin with lemon potato, Champagne lobster in chardonnay sauce, and the seldom seen hanging tenderloin served with camel cheese and smoked eggplant round out a strongly Australian-themed menu. Bacchus is at Rydges South Bank, corner of Grey and Glenelg Streets, South Bank. Open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday. See www.bacchussouthbank.com.au
THREE BLUE DUCKS Black corn, Ping Tung long eggplant and tasty tomatoes grown year round are just a few of the local ingredients that have impressed the crew at Three Blue Ducks since bringing their laidback, fuss-free dining ethos north of the border to the W hotel. You’ll find the eggplant, for example, roasted from the wood oven and folded through soba noodle salad (above), with charred broccoli, wakame and a toasted sesame and miso vinaigrette on the lunch menu. Three Blue Ducks is on Level 3, W hotel, 81 North Quay, city. Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch and dinner. See www.threeblueducks.com/brisbane-2 BNE May/June 2019 | 31
WHAT’S ON
VOTE FOR KATE Has Kate Miller-Heidke got what it takes to win Eurovision? The altpop star and songwriter had a convincing win to be Australia’s entrant in this year’s song contest with a performance that included a costume that elevated her more than three metres off the ground and a back-up performer swaying aerobatically above her head on a bendy pole. If that sounds bizarre, it is! But that’s Eurovision, and Miller-Heidke has shown herself to be a master of theatricality in a career that already has been far from ordinary. She grew up and studied in Brisbane, training at the Queensland Conservatorium of Music before making her debut with Opera Queensland and playing in various bands. She’s performed at festivals including Woodford, Bluesfest and Coachella, had top 10 hits and performed with the Metropolitan Opera in New York; she was commissioned to write an opera based on John Marsden’s children’s book The Rabbits for Opera Australia which received critical acclaim and more recently she has written the music and lyrics, in collaboration with her husband Keir Nuttall, for Muriel’s Wedding The Musical which will open in Brisbane in September. When BNE went to press strict secrecy still surrounded the details of her performance and her costume for Eurovision with Miller-Heidke only prepared to say that it will be different and involve an element of technical mastery far beyond anything she’s ever done before. “It’s important to me to be entertaining and theatrical, to tell a story. Eurovision gives artists permission to go a bit more bonkers than they normally would and I wanted to embrace that,” she says. It’s also a rigorous process and Miller-Heidke will be in Tel Aviv for nearly three weeks for rostered rehearsals, press promotions and the final judging, which is determined 50/50 by the viewers’ vote and a selected panel. So, we can have a say in the outcome. But if we want to create history and give Australia its first-ever win in Eurovision we’ll have to be up early and vote for Kate Miller-Heidke during her first semi-final performance which will be broadcast live on SBS from 5am AEST on 15 May. To find out more see www.sbs.com.au/eurovision
Band on the run The reviews for Ursula Yovich’s band Barbara and the Camp Dogs in the musical play of the same name are so good that if she ever tired of her career as an actor and playwright she could probably go on the road as a muso quite successfully. But then that really would be life imitating art as that’s where Barbara and the Camp Dogs begins, as a struggling pub band trying to get a gig. There’s rock, a lot of rage, there’s fun and family drama – in other words a piece of theatre not to miss. Yovich (left), who co-wrote the script about her alter ego, stars with Ellen Crombie. Until 25 May at Bille Brown Theatre, South Brisbane. Tickets from $35 per person (35 and under) plus booking fees. See www.queenslandtheatre.com.au
32 | BNE May/June 2019
R AW POW ER OF
BOLSHOI
When Russia’s Bolshoi Ballet returns to Brisbane for an exclusive appearance as part of QPAC’s popular International Series it will present two masterful and very different ballets – Spartacus, all power, passion and dynamic action counterbalanced by the sheer beauty and grace of the triple bill Jewels, a work inspired by the emeralds, rubies and diamonds that caught choreographer George Balanchine’s eye in the shopfronts of New York City. At QPAC’s Lyric Theatre from 26 June to 7 July. Tickets from $79 per person plus booking fees. See www.qpac.com.au
OPERA QUEENSLAND artistic director Patrick Nolan directs Tosca, Puccini’s thrilling drama of power, love and treachery, at Lyric Theatre, QPAC, 13-22 June. Learn more about it at pre-concert talks before selected shows. See www.oq.com.au
MEGAN
turns on the music
Megan Mullally (above right) is perhaps best recognised for her Emmy Award-winning role as Grace’s PA on the sitcom Will & Grace but when she arrives in Brisbane for a one night only performance it will be an all singing, all dancing show with fellow actor Stephanie Hunt (above left) and their band Nancy and Beth. While the musical numbers are fully choreographed, what happens in between is not so who knows what might happen. So far the band has performed at venues and events as diverse as America’s Newport Folk Festival, the Grand Ole Opry in Nashville and London’s Royal Festival Hall. This is their first visit to Brisbane. Megan Mullally and her band Nancy and Beth perform on 19 June at Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane. Tickets from $85 per person plus booking fees. See www.qpac.com.au
Tenors share the love
When you’re one of the Ten Tenors and you’re about to get married the choice of music for the wedding is going to be a hot topic. For Paul Gelsumini, the longest serving member of the group, it was a conversation with producer and manager D-J Wendt about the song for the wedding dance and a serenade from his fellow tenors that sparked talk of a new album … Paul chose Ed Sheeran’s ‘Perfect’ for his first dance with his new wife when they married earlier this year, an exclusive preview, you could say, of what was to come on the Ten Tenors’ new album, Love is in the Air, featuring the song (in both English and Italian) which was released just weeks ago. The album is a celebration of wedding first dance songs and it’s one for true romantics with other hits including the stand-out hit from the film A Star is Born, ‘Shallow’, ‘Never Enough’ from The Greatest Showman and, of course, the title song. This is the Tenors’ 15th studio album and they have sold more than 1.2 million records worldwide. The Ten Tenors will be doing shows from Cairns to the Gold Coast as part of a national tour, landing in Brisbane on 23 May at Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane. Tickets from $95 per person plus booking fees. See www.qpac.com.au/ For other centres see www.tentenors.com BNE May/June 2019 | 33
WHAT’S ON
A POINT OF DIFFERENCE Elise Greig’s husband is always telling her to stop eavesdropping, and to stop staring at people but Greig (right) can’t stop – it’s an occupational addiction as an actor and as a playwright to be fascinated by the human character. But for her latest work, Magpie, Greig found her inspiration much closer to home. When she discovered she had Romani heritage she began researching her family history in detail and the more she learned, the more she realised there was a story that reached far beyond the family folklore. Magpie is Greig’s second play that draws on her Romani heritage to highlight issues of identity and the judgements that come with being part of an ethnic minority. The first was a one woman show based largely on her research; her latest is a more fictional drama, a murder mystery and a coming-of-age in reverse for the central character, Mordecai. Although once again elements of Greig’s research have found their way into the script, quite literally in the use of Romani language occasionally, she insists it is not her family’s story. Just as a magpie is a pariah in its world, Mordecai is the outsider returning to her family home after years spent living overseas. She discovers her old journal and sets out to uncover long dormant secrets that cursed her family and led to her leaving home at age 15. Against a backdrop of a Brisbane summer, and with flashbacks to the 1960s, she grapples with the relationships that have shaped her. Magpie is on 29 May to 8 June, at Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm. Tickets from $29 (preview only) or $45 per person, plus booking fees. See www.brisbanepowerhouse.org
VINTAGE GEMS All hail The King
Anthony Petrucci is the King of Parkes – the capital of Elvis Presley tributes with its annual festival to honour the rock ‘n’ roll legend and where Petrucci was crowned best of the bunch in 2018. Petrucci has been a fan of The King since childhood, making his television debut in a talent contest when he was 20 and going on to perform in Las Vegas and the King’s old home town, Tupelo, Mississippi. All hail The King when Petrucci (left) steps out on stage as his idol in the Class of ’59 The Rock & Roll Circus Tour alongside Scott Cameron as Buddy Holly, Matty Breen as Jerry Lee Lewis, James Nation-Ingle as Bill Haley and Simon O’Connor as The Big Bopper. If you’ve never heard the hits of the ’50s that changed the future of music, this is as close as you’ll get to the real thing in a two-hour crash course. On 31 May at Playhouse, QPAC, South Brisbane. Tickets from $60 plus booking fees. See www.qpac.com.au
Cooly rocks
Coolangatta will be rocking to the sounds of the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s with a street parade, dance displays, markets, and live entertainment during the five-day nostalgia fest that is Cooly Rocks On. Dance floors will be pumping with rock ‘n’ roll, swing and rockabilly, more than 500 cars will be on display and everyone’s encouraged to dress the part. From 5 to 9 June in the streets, parks and surrounds of ‘Cooly’. See www.coolyrockson.com
OW N K
O
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SATURDAY 27 JULY 2019 Royal International Convention Centre Brisbane
34 | BNE May/June 2019
Hot
WHEN WHAT
TICKETS
Rudimental
Toast to Our Differences is an album for our times and, after a rescheduling blip, East London lads Rudimental will at last be performing their latest hits live in Brisbane on 5 June at Riverstage. The single ‘These Days’ has already passed 2 million sales and is a triple platinum hit in Australia, while the band’s streaming stats are out of the stratosphere. Tickets from $91.54 plus booking fees at www.ticketmaster.com.au
Nick Murphy To make his latest album Run Fast Sleep Naked Nick Murphy spent four years travelling the world solo with a microphone in his suitcase, recording his vocal tracks in whichever spaces and environments most inspired him. Now Murphy, the artist formerly known as Chet Faker, is on his way home and will perform at the Tivoli, Fortitude Valley, on 8 May. Tickets from $74.35 plus booking fees at www.thetivoli.com.au
The Whitlams It’s a rare chance to see The Whitlams on tour and you’ll have to be quick if you want to see them at the Triffid in Newstead as two shows have already sold out. Tim Freedman says the band’s fourth album, Love This City, will form the core of the show, which includes gems such as ‘Blow Up the Pokies’. Tickets $61.75 plus booking fees at www.thetriffid.com.au
WHERE
MAY 3-11
Australian School of the Arts, Hairspray, the Broadway Musical
Redland Performing Arts Centre, Cleveland
4+5
Post Malone
Brisbane Entertainment Centre, Boondall
4+5
Model Train Show
Brisbane Showgrounds, Bowen Hills
5
Petula Clark
Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane
7
Billie Eilish
Riverstage, City Botanic Gardens
8
A Bowie Celebration – The Alumni Tour
Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane
8
Nick Murphy
The Tivoli, Fortitude Valley
9-12
NRL Magic Round, 8 matches
Suncorp Stadium, Milton
12
Brisbane Philharmonic Orchestra, Sunset Songs
The Old Museum, Bowen Hills
17
David Malouf with David Marr
Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm
17-25
Queensland Ballet, The Masters Series
Playhouse, QPAC, South Brisbane
18
Heed the Porter, music
The Old Museum, Bowen Hills
18
Brisbane Art and Design Tour, Museum of Brisbane
Fish Lane, South Brisbane
19
The Celtic Tenors
The Old Museum, Bowen Hills
24
BNE Design, free exhibition
Reddacliff Place, City
24
Vince Jones
Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm
25+26
Madman Anime Festival
Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane
28
The Illusionist
Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm
30
A Taste of Ireland
Logan Entertainment Centre, Logan Central
30
Flipside Circus, Revolve
Redland Performing Arts Centre, Cleveland
1
Theo Von
Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane
1
Eurosmash, comedy cabaret
Logan Entertainment Centre, Logan Central
2
Herbie Hancock
Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane
5
Rudimental
Riverstage, City Botanic Gardens
5
State of Origin Game 1
Suncorp Stadium, Milton
7
Clare Bowditch
Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm
9
World Travel Expo: The Americas
Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane
12
The Monkees, Michael Nesmith and Micky Dolenz
Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane
12-23
Judith Lucy v Men
Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm
JUNE
13
Alex Lahey
The Tivoli, Fortitude Valley
14
Anh Do, The Happiest Refugee Live
Logan Entertainment Centre, Logan Central
15
Dead Puppet Society Academy, free performance
Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm
19
Professor Brian Cox Universal World Tour
Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane
21
Finders Keepers Design Market
Brisbane Showgrounds, Bowen Hills
From 28
Disney on Ice
Brisbane Entertainment Centre, Boondall
28+29
L’Amante Anglaise
Gardens Theatre, QUT Gardens Point, city
29
Hot Rod and Street Machine Spectacular
Brisbane Showgrounds, Bowen Hills
29
Last Podcast on the Left
Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane
From 29
Queensland Theatre, City of Gold
Bille Brown Theatre, South Brisbane
From 29
Australian Film Series
Redland Performing Arts Centre, Cleveland BNE May/June 2019 | 35
BNE NEED TO KNOW
Enviro-friendly BUSES
A new fleet of electric buses transports passengers between Brisbane Airport terminals and Skygate retail precinct or the long-stay AIRPARK. The buses are quieter and better for the environment, reducing carbon emissions equivalent to taking 100 cars off the road each year. Interiors, too, have been designed with travellers in mind, with plenty of luggage racks, three fullsized double doors for easy entry and exit and GPS next-stop announcements.
Brisbane Airport is the first Australian airport to introduce a fleet of 11 electric buses for passengers and services operating between the Domestic and International Terminals from 4am to 11pm daily; between the terminals and Skygate from 6.30am (weekdays, and from 8.30am weekends) to 6pm; and 24/7 between terminals and AIRPARK. Terminal Transfer Bus services are free. For timetables see www.bne.com.au/passenger/to-and-from/terminal-transfers
TRANSPORT OPTIONS AT BRISBANE AIRPORT PASSENGER PICK-UP ZONES
TERMINAL TRANSFERS Passengers transferring between the terminals can travel via the free Transfer Bus which departs at regular intervals from Level 2 International Terminal and Level 1 Domestic Terminal. See the BNE app for timetables. 36 | BNE May/June 2019
BNE PARKING Convenient, secure and undercover short and long-term parking is available within walking distance to both terminals. For more information about special offers and full product offering including valet, car washing, AIRPARK and more see www.bne.com.au
RIDE SHARE PICK-UP ZONES Look for the signs indicating Pre-Booked Express and Ride Booking (Ride Share) zones outside each terminal.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT TransLink is the local bus, ferry and train public transport network stretching north to Gympie, south to Coolangatta and west to Helidon. For information and timetables see www.translink.com.au or call 13 12 30.
TRANSPORT BOOKINGS Image: Uber
Domestic Terminal: A dedicated pick-up waiting area provides free parking for the first 30 minutes for drivers arriving to collect passengers from Domestic Terminal, located beside the P2 long term car park and accessed from Dryandra Road. Passengers can contact the driver when they are ready for collection and the driver can proceed to the pick-up location. For easy how to use instructions see www.bne.com.au/ International Terminal: The dedicated passenger pick-up area for international arrivals is located at ground level at the northern end of the International Terminal. It is accessible only to drivers collecting passengers who are ready and waiting at the kerb. Alternatively, waiting areas with longer parking options can be found at the pick-up waiting area accessible from Dryandra Road (up to 30 minutes), Skygate shopping and dining precinct or Kingsford Smith Memorial (both up to two hours), all just minutes from International Terminal. Drivers collecting passengers with a disability or mobility limitation from International Terminal can stop in accessible waiting bays on the Level 4 ‘Departures’ Road.
Domestic Terminal: On the central road between the taxi pick-up and passenger drop-off on either side of the Skywalk. International Terminal: Outside the terminal at the southern end on ground level. A Brisbane Airport access fee of $3.90 applies to all pick-ups from the Ride Booking zones, which will be added to your booking by your ride sharing service. For location maps see www.bne.com.au/to-from-brisbane-airport/ transport-options
Coach, rail, limousine and corporate car bookings can be made at the Visitor Information Centre, Level 2 International Terminal or Level 1 Domestic Terminal.
TAXIS AND AIRTRAIN Taxi ranks International Terminal Level 2, kerbside Domestic Terminal Level 1, kerbside Airtrain provides regular rail links between Brisbane Airport, Brisbane city, Gold Coast and TransLink network as well as terminal transfers. Tickets available in the terminal or at the station.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRES For information about accommodation, tours, transfer tickets and general enquiries, Visitor Information Centres are located on Level 2 International Terminal and Level 1 Domestic Terminal Central Area.
LOCAL AMENITIES
CURRENCY EXCHANGE Travelex currency exchange and transfer facilities are on Levels 2, 3 and 4 International Terminal and Level 2 Domestic Terminal near Gate 23.
Skygate is Brisbane Airport’s retail and dining precinct, a short free ride on the Transfer Bus from the terminals. There are more than 160 stores, including brand-name factory outlets, a 24/7 supermarket, hairdresser, gym, restaurants, chemist, medical clinic, hotel, beauty services, barber, tavern and golf leisure centre.
BAGGAGE LOCKERS
AIRPORT ambassadors Welcoming volunteers are available to answer questions and offer directions to visitors within Brisbane Airport’s Domestic and International Terminals. Look for ambassadors wearing bright blue shirts if you need assistance and our team of Chinese-speaking ambassadors wear red shirts.
TAX REFUND SCHEME (TRS) The TRS enables international travellers to claim a refund, subject to certain conditions, of the Goods and Services Tax (GST) and Wine Equalisation Tax (WET) that you pay on goods bought in Australia. For details see passenger information at www.bne.com.au If your purchase is part of your carry-on luggage: The TRS office is located past security and passport control, just to the right of the JR/Duty Free entrance. If your purchase is packed in luggage you intend to check: Before you check-in your luggage make your way to the Australian Border Force Client Services Office, located on Level 1 International Terminal. For further information call 1300 363 263 or see www.customs.gov.au
TOUR BRISBANE AIRPORT Do you have a question about the new runway? Would you like to go ‘behind-the-scenes’ of airport operations? Brisbane Airport hosts free tours for community groups. Find out more at www.bne.com.au/tours
ROTARY CLUB OF BRISBANE AIRPORT The club is a vibrant group of professionals with a shared passion to support the local community who meet weekly and new members are always welcome. For details see www.bneairportrotary.com
Find small, medium and large lockers for short and long-term hire at the terminal entrance to the public car park at International Terminal, at either end of Domestic Terminal, or next to the bus stop at Skygate.
DISABILITY ACCESS Airlines are responsible for assisting passengers with disabilities within terminals. Passengers should refer to their airline’s policies prior to booking their ticket. Dedicated Changing Places bathroom facilities for the use of travellers with special needs are located on the central ground floor area of Domestic Terminal (near Qantas baggage carousel 3) and on Level 4, International Terminal, near Flight Centre. Facilities for assistance dogs are available at International Terminal Level 3 Departures and Domestic Terminal Level 2 Central Area.
POLICE For assistance at Brisbane Airport telephone 13 12 37.
LOST PROPERTY International Terminal Visitor Information Centre, Level 2; call (07) 3406 3190 or email international@sqt.com.au
Domestic Terminal Enquiries first to airlines –
Qantas (gates 1-25) call +61 7 3867 3264 Virgin Australia (gates 38-50) call +61 7 3114 8150 Jetstar (gates 26-36) call + 61 7 3336 1752 Tigerair email ttbne.ops@aerocare.com.au before contacting Visitor Information Centre, Level 1; call (07) 3068 6698 or email domestic@sqt.com.au
Car parks and buses
Contact Visitor Information Centre as above.
WiFi access
Brisbane Airport has the fastest uncapped free WiFi in Australia available at International and Domestic Terminals.
BNE IT ALL BEGINS HERE
Seoul
South Korea
Tokyo (Narita) Japan
Shanghai (Pudong)
Guangzhou
China
China
Shenzhen China
Dubai
United Arab Emirates
Bangkok
Abu Dhabi
Hong Kong
Taipei Taiwan
China
Thailand
United Arab Emirates
Manila
Philippines
Kuala Lumpur
Malaysia
Singapore
Bandar Seri Begawan Brunei*
Singapore
Port Moresby Papua New Guinea
Denpasar
3 8
Indonesia
BRISBANE
Destinations DIRECT FROM BRISBANE
AirAsia
Air Canada
Aircalin
38 | BNE May/June 2019
Air Niugini
Air New Zealand
Alliance Airlines
Air Vanuatu
China Airlines
Cathay Pacific
China Southern Airlines China Eastern Airlines
Etihad
Emirates
Fiji Airlines
Eva Air
Fly Corporate
Australia’s largest domestic network Vancouver
Domestic destinations
Canada
Los Angeles USA
Honolulu
USA
Darwin
Nauru Nauru
Cairns
Apia
Munda Honiara
Cloncurry
Samoa
Solomon Islands
Mt Isa
Port Hedland
Espiritu Santo
Longreach
Vanuatu
Noumea
New Caledonia
Auckland
Perth
New Zealand
Queenstown New Zealand
Whitsunday Coast (Proserpine) Hamilton Island Mackay Rockhampton Gladstone
Emerald
Biloela Bundaberg Windorah Charleville Fraser Coast (Hervey Bay) Birdsville Roma Miles Quilpie BRISBANE St George Toowoomba Thargomindah Cunnamulla Norfolk Island Moree Inverell Narrabri Coffs Harbour Tamworth Armidale Dubbo Port Macquarie
Uluru
Fiji
Moranbah Barcaldine
Blackall
Alice Springs
Port Vila Vanuatu Nadi
Townsville
Newcastle Orange Sydney Lord Howe Island Wollongong Canberra
Adelaide
Wellington New Zealand
Christchurch New Zealand
Melbourne
Dunedin
New Zealand
Launceston Hobart
*Commencing June 2019. Map not to scale. Please note airlines and destinations are current at time of print.
Hainan Airlines
Jetstar
Hawaiian Airlines
Malaysia Airlines Korean Air
Nauru Airlines Malindo Air
Qantas/ QantasLink Philippine Airlines
Royal Brunei Airlines Rex
Singapore Airlines Samoa Airways
Thai Airways Solomon Airlines
Virgin Australia Tigerair
BNE May/June 2019 | 39
DAY IN THE LIFE
Ant Halapua, Dryandra Road Underpass Project Delivery Manager, Brisbane Airport Corporation The Dryandra Road underpass provides public access to Brisbane Airport’s northern facilities and runs below the taxiways between the new runway and the terminals. The roof of the underpass is 1.6 metres thick and has been designed to carry the weight of aircraft up to 710 tonnes – that’s about 180 tonnes more than a fully-laden A380 passing overhead on the taxiway.
More than 2700 PEOPLE will have contributed to the construction of BRISBANE AIRPORT’S new RUNWAY by the time it opens next year. Here are a few who are helping to make it happen…
Danny Karreman, Quarry Manager, Karreman Quarries, Sheldon Supplying road base material for access roads and taxiways. In total more than 1.2 million tonnes of quarry products will be used on construction of the new runway.
Brad Johnson, Managing Director, Blask Engineering, Inglewood Supplying the structural steel for the jet thrust screens designed to deflect jet blasts away from vehicles travelling below the taxiways through the Dryandra Road underpass.
I can’t wait for the day I can fly out and look down and say, we did that Brad Johnson, Blask Engineering Paul Brady, Executive Director, Brady Marine & Civil, Yatala Building the jetty that extends out into Moreton Bay, housing 320 metres of high intensity approach lighting to assist aircraft landing on the new runway.
40 | BNE May/June 2019
Main image: Marc Grimwade
Robert Snowden, Group Quarry Manager, Neilsens Concrete, Brendale Supplying 120,000 tonnes of ‘clean’ sand for construction of the new runway which is 3.3km long.
Luke Brown, Environmental Manager – Landscaping, Skyway JV More than 300 hectares of landscaping is being done around the runway and taxiways, equal to the size of 269 Suncorp Stadiums, including laying a special turf that does not attract birds or wildlife that may be hazardous to aircraft.
BRISBANE REGION MAP
We respectfully acknowledge the Traditional Owners of the land on which Brisbane Airport stands and pay respect to their Elders past, present and emerging. *The general locations of larger Indigenous language groups of South East Queensland on this map are indicative only, based on the AIATSIS Map of Indigenous Australia published by Aboriginal Studies Press.
Map illustration by Eun-Young Lim. Map is not to scale or exact and an indication only.
BNE May/June 2019 | 41
BRISBANE AIRPORT NEWS
AIRPORT’S
hidden hero
PULLMAN
top 5
Image: Jen Dainer
IN WORLD’S
J
Pullman Brisbane Airport has been named Best Airport Hotel Australia/Pacific in the Skytrax World Airport Awards and ranked 5th in the World’s Best Airport Hotels 2019. The global awards are based on surveys of more than 13 million customers travelling through 550 airports. The five-star hotel provides executive facilities as well as rooms and suites and offers day rates for transiting passengers looking for a break, with access to a pool and restaurant. The Pullman is part of a $150 million development at Dryandra Road, just a few minutes walk from the Domestic Terminal, which includes ibis Brisbane Airport hotel and the 1800sqm Brisbane Airport Conference Centre. For more information see www.bneahg.com.au
ohn Hansford (above) is one of the hidden heroes working behind the scenes at Brisbane Airport – you’re not likely to see him going about his daily tasks but as an airside operations officer he’s one of a team that helps flights come and go smoothly from the terminals. But there’s another reason Hansford stands out – this year he celebrates 50 years on staff at Brisbane Airport and, as the company’s longest serving team member, has accumulated knowledge and experience of the airport’s history shared by few, if any, others. Hansford has been there since the Eagle Farm Aerodrome days and worked long hours to make the move “up the road” to the Brisbane Airport we know today, literally moving operations overnight. Since then he’s worked in a number of roles, from sheet metal worker to ground staff foreman, before becoming an airside operations officer and, like a champion plane spotter, he can identify an aircraft passing overhead when it’s no more than a blob in the sky, just from the sound it makes. He’s seen plenty and can tell 1000 stories, like the time a single-engine, single prop Beechcraft Bonanza came in for an emergency landing, detoured from up north, when its wheels wouldn’t come down. It skidded to a stop, the occupants got out OK, the wheels were fixed overnight, but before they could take off the next morning the door had to be tied up because it had been wrenched almost off, and they needed a longer run to get off the ground on limited power. Times, and operations, have changed but Hansford wouldn’t have it any other way. “One of my bosses once said, and it has always stuck with me, that it’s human nature to believe that if things are working, leave them alone. But with airports, if it’s not changing it’s not working.” And at 70 years young, John Hansford aims to stick around to see a few more changes yet at Brisbane Airport.
90years in Brisbane Qantas had just completed its first one million miles (1,600,000km) and had already carried more than 10,000 passengers when it moved its headquarters to Brisbane in 1929. The airline launched the 710km Charleville-Brisbane service, the first direct link to the coast, and soon after Hudson Fysh, the company’s manager and one of the founding partners, moved his young family from its base at Longreach to the capital city. From here, its fortunes grew, earning lucrative mail contracts and, six years later, operating its first overseas passenger flight from Brisbane to Singapore. Today the Qantas Group employs more than 30,000 people and posted the highest profit in its history ($1.6 billion) last financial year. Happy 90th Qantas. 42 | BNE May/June 2019
Voted BEST Airport Hotel in Australia / Pacific 2019 and 5th BEST Airport Hotel in the world. Featuring 132 luxuriously appointed guest rooms and suites, the hotel is perfectly positioned to accommodate your travel needs. Whether staying for the night or simply for the day, relax and unwind in the pergola on the pool deck or be enticed with Champagne and seafood from Apron Bar and Restaurant.
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