BNE Magazine Issue 23

FR EE YO M UR AG AZ IN E

ISSUE #23 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017

WIN AIRFARES TO BEIJING STYLE

HOLIDAY TAKEAWAYS SUN SMART SWIMWEAR

ESCAPE

THE LURE OF THE TOP END EXCLUSIVELY YOURS ISLANDS TO RENT OFF THE BEATEN TRACK IN JAPAN

OFFBEAT TOURS SEE BRISBANE DIFFERENTLY

Catriona

Rowntree

NEW AMBASSADOR FOR BRISBANE

Take the Jet ng o g n o l l Wo ane b s i r B to rne u o b l e & M

TINAT S E D NEW

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With exceptional inflight service, complimentary beverages and snacks, our JETGO aircraft boast speed, comfort, the quietest cabins and the smallest environmental foot print in its class.

When flying to your next destination... Take the Jet.

Gold Coast

Wagga Wagga

from

Brisbane

Tamworth

from

Brisbane

Dubbo

from

NEW

259 200 277 259 258 228 260 200 169 238 195 196

* *

Brisbane

Albury

from

Brisbane

Wagga Wagga

from

Gold Coast

Townsville

from

Gold Coast

Albury

from

Rockhampton

Townsville

from

Gold Coast

Rockhampton

from

Dubbo

Melbourne (Essendon)

from

NEW

Melbourne (Essendon)

from

Wollongong

NEW

Brisbane

from

*

*

TOWNSVILLE

*

ROCKHAMPTON

* BRISBANE GOLD COAST

* *

*

TAMWORTH

DUBBO

WOLLONGONG

WAGGA WAGGA

*

Illawarra Regional Airport

ALBURY MELBOURNE

Essendon Airport

*†

*†

10039BNE

Wollongong

NETWORK KEY

*Fare rules and conditions apply. Fares are one way and include 15kg checked luggage and 7kg carry on. Fares are subject to change and are correct at time of publication. † Commences 30 October 2017 (subject to regulatory approval, Wollongong only).

BOOK ONLINE

or call 1300 328 000

Celebrating #ExperienceJETGO

Welcome to your free BNE magazine, brought to you by Brisbane Airport

CONTENTS

A

s a presenter on TV travel show Getaway for more than 20 years Catriona Rowntree has learned how to be travel wise and shares her top 10 tips on page 11 – worth checking out before you book a ticket to Beijing which is the newest destination easy to access direct from Brisbane Airport. Air China launches its four-times weekly flights in December and if you haven’t been before then our beginner’s guide (page 16) is a good place to start. We also start our countdown to the Gold Coast 2018 Commonwealth Games (page 30) with a clever hack to find front row seats for some events – and a good feed – without paying a fortune.

22 7

28

4

7

Brisbane Airport News Queen’s Baton Relay on its way to Brisbane Airport; lost property auction and more

Brisbane Insider

Students make design debut; the story of Brisbane told three ways and more

10

Catriona Rowntree

12

14

New ambassador for Brisbane

Style to go Best looks for a summer holiday

Sun smart swimwear Cancer scare leads to hit swim range

ESCAPE 16 Beginner’s guide to Beijing

19

New flights will make it even easier to get there from Brisbane

Win airfares to Beijing

Enter our competition for a chance to win tickets

20

Hooked on the Top End

Why visitors are flocking to the Northern Territory

22

Castaway on a private island

Islands you can rent like an A-lister just for you and your besties

24

Escape Extra

Epic drives of the world; flash camping on Straddie; off the beaten track in Japan and more

42

Offbeat tours in Brisbane

Ghosts, poets and war heroes are the guides with a difference

FOOD & DRINK 28 Holiday spirits

The best cocktails at Brisbane Airport, and how to make them

30 Countdown to GC2018

Where to find food with a view of free events such as the marathon

14 20

WHAT’S ON 32 Lorde comes of age

34

35

The young singer has ticked off some big wins and she’s on her way to Brisbane; Wonderland Festival kicks off summer; five hot concert events not to miss

Marriage under the microscope Real life couple dissects a relationship on stage; outdoor cinema is back and carols go underground

Events calendar Find out what’s happening around the city

MY BRISBANE 36 Li Cunxin

Queensland Ballet artistic director shares his favourite places and pastimes

GALLERY 39 Day in the life

People in transit at Brisbane Airport

NEED TO KNOW 38 Helpful information for

visitors to Brisbane Airport

40 43

Destination map Brisbane region map

BNE magazine is published bi-monthly

by Brisbane Airport Corporation Brisbane Airport Corporation Corporate Communications and Media Manager: Leonie Vandeven Managing Editor: Heather McWhinnie email: editor@bnemagazine.com.au Advertising sales: advertising@bnemagazine.com.au Designer: Stephen Bryett; Cover photography of Catriona Rowntree by Ross Coffey ©2017 Brisbane Airport Corporation. The contents of this publication are not for reproduction, redistribution or reuse by any means whatsoever or in any form whatsoever without express permission of the publisher.

Advertising: all advertisements in BNE magazine are the responsibility of advertisers. Advertising is accepted on the understanding that it does not contravene the Trade Practices Act. Responsibility is not accepted by BNE magazine for statements made or the failure of any product or service to give satisfaction. The publication of any material or editorial does not necessarily constitute endorsement of views or opinions expressed. While every effort is made to avoid errors, some information contained in the publication may be superceded.

BRISBANE AIRPORT NEWS

BATON RELAY begins in Brisbane

The Queen’s Baton will arrive at Brisbane Airport on Christmas Eve to start the Australian leg of its journey to the opening ceremony of the Gold Coast Commonwealth Games on 4 April. Here are some fast facts about the Queen’s Baton Relay: Baton’s journey will take 100 days, visit every state and 1 The territory, passing through 188 cities and townships from

Dreamliner is model aircraft

Hobart in the south to Perth in the west, Alice Springs in the centre and Hammond Island, in the Torres Strait off the coast of far north Queensland.

the Gold Coast the Queen’s 2 ByBatonthewilltimehaveit reaches travelled 230,000km around the world, 40,000km in Australia, in 388 days.

technology on board allows the Baton to be tracked 3 GPS on its journey in real-time. You can follow it online at www.gc2018.com/qbr

of the Baton are made from macadamia wood and 4 Parts reclaimed plastic collected from the ocean, waterways, beaches and surrounding areas of the Gold Coast to raise awareness about over-consumption, pollution and sustainability.

buggy, vintage vehicle, plane, train, helicopter, horse 5 Beach and boat are just some of the ways the Baton will make its way around Queensland before arriving at the Gold Coast on 2 April.

youngest Batonbearer is aged 10, Corbin Easton from 6 The Caloundra, and the oldest is aged 100, Bill Bruce from Nebo, in Queensland. Celebrity Batonbearers include Olympians Susie O’Neill (Brisbane) and Brooke Hanson (Gold Coast), singer Dami Im (Daisy Hill) and retired rugby league player Justin Hodges (Cairns).

Brisbane Airport is an official supplier of the Commonwealth Games and will be the gateway to many athletes competing at venues here and on the Gold Coast from 4 to 15 April 2018.

Since Qantas announced it will base four of its new 787 Dreamliner aircraft in Brisbane to service ultra-long haul routes from the city, Brisbane Airport’s artist-in-residence Ben Craig, aka Ben the Brick Builder, has been hard at work creating a model of the new aircraft from almost 3000 LEGO® bricks which is on display at the central satellite, Domestic Terminal Level 2.

Craig spent more than 50 hours building the model and will share his skills at workshops at the airport and Skygate during the summer school holidays. Craig has also built a miniature cross-section of Brisbane Airport’s International Terminal which is on display at the Green, Departures Level 3, and he is currently working on translating passengers’ travel experiences into scenes made from LEGO pieces that will be displayed on special ‘cube walls’ in both terminals in the new year. For details see www.BNEbricks.com.au

AIR CHINA new arrival Air China is the newest international airline to fly to Brisbane, launching services direct between China’s capital city Beijing and Brisbane four times weekly from 11 December. The airline is China’s national carrier and connects with 18 destinations in Europe, nine in North America and more than 150 cities throughout China and Asia from its home base in Bejing. See www.airchina.com.au For your chance to win airfares to Beijing enter our competition on page 19

GC2018 Ambassador Sally Pearson with the Queen’s Baton

MILESTONES Happy anniversary to these airlines that have been flying into BNE for …

4 | BNE November/December 2017

EVA AIR

CHINA AIRLINES

ETIHAD AIRWAYS

JETGO

years

years

years

years

24

14

10

5

Stars to the rescue of

TAMBO TEDDY

In Brisbane Airport’s television commercial, now on air in Queensland and northern NSW, all eyes are on Brisbane-born rugby league legend Cameron Smith (pictured right), singer/songwriter Pete Murray and travel presenter Catriona Rowntree as they come to the rescue of a teddy bear dropped at the kerb of the terminal and return it to its young owner Lucas (pictured right with Smith) just before he boards an international flight with his family. But this bear is no ordinary teddy. Basil, the Tambo Teddy star of the commercial, is made by hand from pure woollen sheepskin in the town of Tambo, population less than 400, more than 800km north west of Brisbane.

Tambo Teddies are the brainchild of three enterprising women who came up with the idea of making the teddies to help save their droughtstricken town and provide another source of income for their woolgrowing community. Since then more than 40,000 Tambo Teddies have been sold, young Prince George and Princess Charlotte have got one each and, while the original three founders have retired, another three ladies now run the business continuing to make the teddies that are sold online and around Australia (see www.tamboteddies.com.au)

On high at new hotels Brisbane’s newest hotels have opened at Brisbane Airport, just steps from the Domestic Terminal, with rooms boasting views over the runway, towards the city and out to Moreton Bay. The most panoramic views can be seen from the new Sky Lounge rooftop bar (below) in the ibis hotel (www.ibisba.com.au) and from the Executive Lounge inside the 5-star Pullman hotel (www.pullmanba.com.au). The hotels adjoin the new Brisbane Airport Conference Centre (www.bneacc.com.au) which can host up to 600 delegates over 13 different meeting spaces at any given time. Pullman and ibis hotels and Brisbane Airport Conference Centre are just 15 minutes from the city by Airtrain, at 2 Dryandra Road, Brisbane Airport.

BAG AN AUCTION BARGAIN You’d be surprised what people leave behind at Brisbane Airport, and don’t reclaim, from surfboards and prosthetic limbs to crutches and prams (no babies inside), even a cooking hotplate.

Hundreds of mobile phones, laptops and tablets, some designer handbags, perfumes and a heap of jewellery also find their way to the lost property office at the airport but now those unclaimed goods are being turned over to Pickles auctioneers and will be sold, with proceeds donated to Australia Zoo’s Wildlife Warriors to assist their education and preservation programs. Online auction is on 24 to 29 November with a viewing day on 25 November. Look for Brisbane Airport Online Lost Property Auction on the Pickles website at www.pickles.com.au

AMENITIES for special needs Brisbane Airport (BNE) is the first airport in Australia to open a dedicated ‘Changing Places’ facility for passengers with special needs. The new amenities are a breakthrough for people with disabilities and their carers who might otherwise find it difficult to travel without access to the purpose-built spaces with specialised equipment. BNE’s new facility is located on the central ground floor area of the Domestic Terminal (near Qantas baggage carousel 3) and another will be opened in the International Terminal next year. The new facilities are part of a multi-million dollar plan being implemented at Brisbane Airport to improve access and facilities for people with special needs.

BNE November/December 2017 | 5

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VIP HOSPITALITY PACKAGES STARTING FROM $125PP

BRISBANE INSIDER

BOLD RUNWAY DEBUT

BLING RINGS IN 100 YEARS Queensland Premier Anastasia Palaszczuk once had an after-school job in one of their stores, streets in Kenmore still bear names that honour the family patriarch (Gem Road, Sapphire Court, for example) and its landmark arcade building became the scene of a notorious murder in the 1940s.

Jewellery retailer Wallace Bishop has had a colourful history in the 100 years since its first store opened in Adelaide Street in the city and, as it celebrates the anniversary of its centenary, historian Catherine Kenny has been working on documenting the family’s story since the beginning of the year with the view to eventually publish a book. Family members, relatives and colleagues Australiawide and as far afield as Birmingham, England have been interviewed, tracing the business’ beginnings with company founder Wallace Bishop to its success today as one of Australia’s oldest business dynasties, which includes 50 stores, more than 500 employees and the largest watch and jewellery workshop in the Southern Hemisphere.

It’s still a family affair as the fifth generation enters the business and current CEO Stuart Bishop says it continues to be a business of craftsmen. They make about 300 rings by hand every year and complete more than 400 repairs a day in the workshop.

To celebrate the centenary Stuart has designed a special collection of 17 cocktail rings featuring gems such as emeralds, sapphires and diamonds sourced from travels around the world and ranging in price from $10,000.

Alexander, William, Stuart and Wal Bishop, above, in the workshop.

Photography by Eric Wang

Above, from left: Tiarne Logan, Alex Foreman and Elena Ong, Year 12 students at Kelvin Grove State College, and their Bold designs on the runway

T

here was a collective gasp from the audience at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Festival (MBFF) when the designers of the Bold collection came out to take their bow after their runway show – three teenage girls still wearing their school uniforms (it was a school night) who had been watching every move of their garments being styled backstage before they were paraded out.

For Tiarne Logan, Alex Foreman and Elena Ong, all Year 12 students at Kelvin Grove State College, it was the culmination of five months intensive preparation, working in and outside class hours to plan, design and make their collection by showtime, and the pressure was on. Not only are they the first school students to show at MBFF, it was the first time the school’s fashion students had shown their work in such a public arena (beyond shows for family and friends).

According to teacher Carol Turnbull the experience was intended to empower the girls and it began with the name of their

collection. Bold, says student Alex Foreman, is about “having confidence in women and confidence in yourself, to believe in yourself and live the dream,” she says.

For each of the Bold team that means a future in fashion, all of them heading for tertiary degree courses in the new year. Carol Turnbull insists the Bold collection will go on at Kelvin Grove State College with new cohorts of students and, encouraged by the reception at MBFF (which included an approach from a boutique for design opportunities), it will evolve to include next steps such as manufacturing and retail.

BNE November/December 2017 | 7

BRISBANE INSIDER

SONGS AND STORIES

THAT DEFINE BRISBANE

Walk through history Spirits of the Red Sand is an Indigenous experience with a difference. More than a cultural demonstration or song and dance performance it is a dramatic recreation of the clash between Aboriginal and British cultures in the 19th century. Based on true historical events, it is re-enacted by Aboriginal actors who are direct descendants of the ‘mobs’ – their families – who experienced many of the events they bring to life in the show and the audience moves between different sets – a church, a village, outside a jail – as the story unfolds.

Ipswich-based Aboriginal Elder Eddie Ruska and his son Shannon were inspired to develop the project after visiting the Tamaki Maori Village in New Zealand last year. The Ruskas have been running the Nunukul Yuggera drama and dance group for more than 20 years as a way to educate others about Indigenous culture and to reconnect at-risk youth with their Aboriginal heritage but it was the Tamaki Maori Village that showed them a whole new way that guests could interact with their storytelling.

Spirits of the Red Sand takes place within Beenleigh Historical Village where pre-Colonial dwellings have been reconstructed and each night the village comes alive with authentic activities.

Cost from $110 per person self-drive or $120 with transfers from Brisbane or the Gold Coast. Tip: take the transfer for extra storytelling on the way by showmen drivers! Each experience includes a buffet dinner and lasts more than two hours, not including transfers. See www.spiritsredsand.com 8 | BNE November/December 2017

W

arning: you will leave the Story of Brisbane walking tour at Brisbane Powerhouse with a reading list that could take several months to get through and the tour does leave you wanting to know more, thanks to the entertaining presentation by actors Tim Mullooly and Therese Collie (pictured left). The hour-long tour is no ordinary stroll, and no dry history lesson either. Instead Tim and Therese use excerpts from some of the best writers born-orbred in Brisbane, all with a unique perspective on the city, from the poetry of Oodgeroo Noonuccal and the Ballad of Moreton Bay (you’re invited to sing along) to Streets of Your Town by the Go Betweens and a hip hop rendition of Gabba Greens councillor Jonathan Sri’s Roots Down. There’s some light relief in skits from Steele Rudd’s characters Dad and Dave and young ladies flirting with American GIs relayed from Estelle Pinney’s Time Out For Living as the group passes secret spots at the Powerhouse that aren’t shown on any maps.

In all there’s a repertoire of 17 different works referenced during the one-hour tour, including David Malouf’s Johnno, John Birmingham’s He Died with a Falafel in his Hand and Venero Armanno’s Firehead, and if you ever wanted to know how our New World City became known as BrisVegas, then John Kennedy’s lyrics will set you straight. But that’s only scratching the surface of the source material Tim and Therese still have to draw from, which Tim says stretches to a repertoire of 200 to 300 pieces. They’re also not the only stories told on the tour. If there are any locals in the group then chances are they will share anecdotes of their own or their ancestors to add to the picture of what makes Brisbane unique.

And yes, you do get a handout list of the literary works featured on the tour if you should be inclined to further reading or listening.

The Story of Brisbane tours run every Wednesday from 10.00am at Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm.

Cost $30 per person plus booking fee, for details see www.brisbanepowerhouse.org

View from the OLD WINDMILL window

The Old Windmill in Spring Hill is Queensland’s oldest building still standing, seen from a contemporary point of view in a new exhibition open until December.

Queensland State Archives opened its files to Griffith University’s College of Art students to create works reflecting the history of Australia’s last remaining windmill tower and the tumultuous events that took place around it – from protests in the nearby park and riots in the city streets to plague, murders across the road and hangings from its own windows.

Queensland College of Art student Dominique Chen, whose photographic collage My Brother’s Keeper (pictured) is part of the exhibition, says the landmark was a familiar sight when she was growing up yet she admits she knew little of the windmill’s history beyond its convict origins until she became involved in the project.

“I loved working with the archival images and getting a deep sense of the site through my research,” says Chen, who layered images of the different stages of the Old Windmill’s history in her work – from its days as a place of convict punishment, grain grinding and executions to its role as a time-keeper, signal and broadcast tower and now tourist landmark.

Curators of the exhibition have also created a short film that uses the windmill as a lens to illustrate significant events in the birth and development of Brisbane.

The Windmill of Your Mind: Stories Inspired by Queensland’s Oldest Building exhibition is at Queensland State Archives, 435 Compton Road, Runcorn, open 9am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday and the second Saturday of each month. Entry, free. See www.archives.qld.gov.au

FOR THE LOVE OF

BOOKS

Book lovers across Brisbane are making the most of the ‘share economy’ by reading, and recycling, their books as part of a growing Street Library program. Founder and avid reader Nic Lowe saw the idea in the US and built his own Street Library and installed it outside his house in November two years ago with the aim to encourage literacy and a connection with the local community. The results have been beyond his expectations.

“I thought reaching 500 libraries by the end of 2018 would be a stretch but we are nearly there now,” says Lowe, who has raised his goal to reach 5000 libraries by 2020. Lowe is the co-founder of car share service GoGet and wants to see more people share their books in the community rather than hoard them.

“It’s an invitation to share the joys of reading with your neighbours,” says Lowe.

Anyone can set up a Street Library, either by buying one (from the Street Library website and delivered flat-packed to your door) or making their own and setting it up in the front yard or at the front fence, accessible to the street so that books can be easily borrowed and others added. Registering its location on the Street Library website allows others to find them.

Heather Grant-Campbell and her husband Craig (pictured above) set up Brisbane’s first Street Library in Piddington Street, Ashgrove last year, using materials salvaged from a renovation project. It now has its own Facebook page (Piddington Pages Street Library) to promote its changing contents and Heather says it holds nice surprises for them as well as for borrowers when people add new books.

Anyone can borrow a Street Library book and return it to the Street Library network or pass it on to friends. There is no obligation to give a book in return but so far there has been no shortage of books exchanged. Each little library holds about 20 to 40 books depending on their size.

“The average Street Library turns over about once per week.

Some, like the one outside my kids’ school, turn over six times a week! We think we recycled about $2.6 million worth of books last year and the equivalent of more than 200 tonnes of paper,” says Lowe. Find out more at www.streetlibrary.org.au

BNE November/December 2017 | 9

COVER STORY

C AT R I O N A ROWNTR E E NEW AMBASSADOR FOR BRISBANE

I

n an essay about her late father Catriona Rowntree revealed that he had given each of his children a gift when they left school. A small amount of money to do with whatever they liked, so long as it would benefit their lives. “My sister put it towards an aroundthe-world ticket, my brother put it towards a car. I used it to help pay for a diploma course in journalism,” she wrote.

So began a journey even Australia’s best known travel presenter didn’t see coming. That small step has led to a career spanning 22 years working in a field many would envy, travelling the globe and showing viewers back home what makes a place tick.

Rowntree developed her passion for travel early, taking an epic ancient history trip through Greece and Egypt when she was 15. “I knew the moment I left school that somehow I would find myself in a profession that allowed me to explore that passion but I never in my life thought that a girl like me could get a gig like Getaway,” she says.

“I don’t have a list of degrees, I’ve never been in a reality show, I’m not a model but I’m up for anything. So often people look at jobs and think that couldn’t happen to them but I can honestly say persistence leads to victory.”

10 | BNE November/December 2017

Rowntree started at the bottom and worked her way up, first as a researcher, then as a presenter on community radio before she joined a metro station. From there she jumped to children’s television and quickly graduated from researcher to host, writer and producer.

So when the opportunity for Getaway came along, “my boss knew I had the skills to look after myself. I write my own material. I have a studio set up at home. I don’t have a makeup artist or a stylist.

“I began when it wasn’t about fame and there was no such thing as social media so I never had to obsess about followers, I just had to focus on doing the best job possible.”

Another lesson learned from her father.

“The best piece of advice that my Dad ever gave me is that there are two types of people in life: the ‘gunnas’ and the ‘doers’ and that I should always aim to be among the latter.

“My boss knows he can send me out and it will be fuss-free and we’ll get the job done.

I’m not the sort of person who’s going to sit in the car and wait for someone else to do the work. I’m out there talking to people and putting the story together myself,” which perhaps explains why Rowntree has lasted on the show for more than 20 years

as other presenters have come and gone.

Now she also curates her own website (at www.journeystocome.com), which includes podcasts, and regularly posts to Instagram and Twitter to stay connected with followers who have a voracious appetite for her travel tips.

Her innate curiosity means she never misses an opportunity to learn something about her destination. For example, in France recently she was standing in a long queue outside Europe’s largest bookstore in Bordeaux and while she was waiting she turned around, turned her phone on record and interviewed the young man standing behind her for 15 minutes for a local’s view of Bordeaux.

That same curiosity has been applied in her new role as ambassador for a campaign to promote Brisbane Airport, its home town and its network of destinations. One of the first things Rowntree did was interview everyone she could get access to at the airport, from marketing directors to restaurant owners.

“Wherever I go I love chatting to the locals to find out what is unique about that area.

At Brisbane Airport I interviewed everyone everywhere I was going to share people’s stories, which really is what I enjoy,” she says.

Images: Nine Network/Getaway

Catriona Rowntree is a travel veteran but she’s got some very clear reasons why she likes travelling through Brisbane Airport

In Cook Islands

In Bhutan

In Peru

CATRIONA’S

TRAVEL WISE TIPS

In Africa

The campaign is a first for an Australian airport and a first for Rowntree who, surprisingly for her many years in travel, has never endorsed an airport. “I have never put my name to a project like this before simply because there are so many airports that tick me off,” says the very frequent flyer.

“It astounds me the number of airports even being built today that still get it wrong. There are some fundamental things such as good signage, easy access to help passengers get somewhere quickly … Locals in Brisbane don’t know how fortunate they are to have a train that can take you straight into the city, easy access for limo drivers, fantastic local produce on the menu, cleanliness in the airport, somewhere to chill with a good coffee, or get a facial if you’re in the airport for a few hours. There are so many details that put the passenger first and enhance the traveller’s journey.”

If anyone knows a good airport when she sees one, it’s Rowntree who travels through a few every week on assignment for Getaway on her way to some amazing destinations, many before they were social-media-trendy.

“I’ve crawled my way through the Pyramids in Egypt, travelled with a Palestinian group

In Venice

1

retracing the steps of Mary and Joseph from Nazareth to Bethlehem and we were one of the first non-news crews to go into Croatia after the war. I remember one of the women giving me the biggest hug and just crying that we were there to promote their beautiful county and welcome people back to Dubrovnik.”

Rowntree estimates she has so far visited about 80 countries which is not a huge checklist but she returns to many over and over again. Bhutan still ranks as a favourite of all time for the life lessons learned.

“I remember we had to do a climb to see the remarkable Tiger’s Nest Monastery and I admit I was whingeing at the start and kept asking why we couldn’t take a donkey to save time but we walked up with the locals who were singing to the gods and spinning prayer wheels and following the ethos that what you put into your life is what you’ll take back and if you put the effort in you’ll enjoy the reward at the top. I left that country, where they believe gross domestic happiness is more important than gross domestic product, I think a better person. The more I travel the more I realise how much I’ve yet to see and the only annoying thing about my job is that the bucket list is infinite.”

1

There’s always another plane – if you miss your flight the sky will not fall

2

Never take away anything you’d be upset to lose

3

If you can fit it in the overhead locker, just buy it

4

Don’t take away anything that needs ironing

5

One of my favourite shops at the airport is the chemist.

Stock up before you go on your favourite little products that you think you can get overseas but you can’t

6

Don’t be obsessed about money. It’s remarkable how the little Cirrus sign on the back of your bank card is sometimes all that is required

7

Don’t underestimate the importance of learning a few words of the local language of wherever you are going before you go

8

Be respectful of the culture you are going to

9

Research the climate that you are flying into, that always helps with your packing

10

Always get travel insurance

BNE November/December 2017 | 11

STYLE

Monica T-bar sandal $99.95 Mini circle drop earrings $12.95

Panama hat $49.95, playsuit $119.95

style

Shoulder frill dress $229.95

S

TO G O

ummer may not start officially until 1 December but we’re already dreaming of Singapore Slings at sunset, brunch by the beach and staying cool as a cucumber instead of hot under the collar from 9 until 5. Seed Heritage makes the holiday mix and match easy with its latest collection of short and long dresses, playsuits, palazzo pants, shoulder-baring tops and Riviera-inspired accessories. And even if you haven’t got it all together by the time you reach the bag drop, stay cool – Seed Heritage now has a store at Brisbane Airport Domestic Terminal for holiday-inspired shopping (as well as stores at key holiday destinations in Queensland – Wintergarden Brisbane city, Noosa, Pacific Fair and Marina Mirage Gold Coast and more …)

Spice floral dress $139.95

Alex Perry gown $1800

Arianna pouch $49.95 12 | BNE November/December 2017

Wide brim metallic detail hat $59.95

Caitlin sandal $69.95

Krystal sandal $89.95

Peek-a-boo crop top $79.95 and stripe shorts $79.95, Rosa Pom Pom tote $59.95 Broderie top $119.95, denim shorts $69.95, Maddie raffiagoes slinghere bag $59.95 Item name $000

Petra espadrille $99.95

Mexicola earrings $29.95

Kaylee Pom Pom tote $79.95 Ink Edge Crochet Panama $49.95

Willow slide $89.95

Bonnie cross over slide $59.95

Piper dress $129.95

Tie hem top $89.95, maxi skirt $119.95, Asta gold slides $99.95

All fashion and accessories from Seed Heritage, now open at Brisbane Airport, Domestic Terminal Level 2, near Gate 22. There is also a Seed Heritage Outlet store at DFO, Skygate, Brisbane Airport. For all other stores see www.seedheritage.com BNE November/December 2017 | 13

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Meriton Suites Herschel Street Brisbane’s tallest hotel

STYLE EXTRA

“We wanted to help spread awareness about sun damage and change the way people think sun protection should look,” says Kirsty. The result is their label Mara Swim which has been nearly two years in the making as the sisters – both now young mums and living more than 1000km apart in Brisbane and Townsville – tapped into emerging designer programs and learnt as much as they could about fashion and sun protection and combining the two.

They launched their website earlier this year showcasing the Mara Swim capsule collection of one-piece swimsuits, tops and swim pants in colourful, bold prints and fabrics with a UV protection of 50+ and it is generating a wave of support. Champion surfer Sally Fitzgibbons has helped spread the message, seen wearing the Goddess one-piece in a picture posted on her Instagram account, and there has been a spike in sales on the website since the collection was shown at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Festival in Brisbane in September.

For sisters Kirsty and Naomi it’s a welcome affirmation their decision to launch the label was a good one. “We want women to take care of themselves and we believe that if our designs are not only protective but beautiful too then women will be more likely to do just that, and hopefully they will feel great about themselves while they are enjoying time in the sun,” says Kirsty.

SUN SMART

See the collection at www.maraswim.com.au

SWIMWEAR

S

isters Kirsty Parnell and Naomi Collings are acutely aware of the dangers of skin cancer – they grew up in north Queensland which continues to record the highest rate of skin cancer in the world, and it was Kirsty’s chance spotting of a suspicious skin mole on the back of her sister’s arm that may have saved Naomi’s life.

Skin cancers account for the largest number of cancers diagnosed in Australia each year and the Australian Cancer Research Foundation reports that melanoma is the most common cancer in young Australians aged 15-39.

Kirsty urged her sister to have her mole checked and Naomi now sports a scar where the melanoma was removed, a constant reminder to be vigilant about sun protection and checking her skin for new melanomas.

Fair-skinned redhead Naomi has had four more removed since and continues to be checked by a health professional every six months.

The experience was not only a wake-up call, it also presented the sisters with a new creative outlet and a business opportunity. Disappointed with the lack of stylish sun-smart swimwear in the marketplace the pair decided to design their own.

Sisters in business Kirsty Parnell (left) and Naomi Collings Top, Goddess one piece and right, Lava one piece, $199 each BNE November/December 2017 | 15

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As new direct flights between Brisbane and Beijing take off, many new visitors will discover the city. Here’s how to see it like an expert, with a little help from Natasha Dragun who has returned again and again

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO

BEIJING T

here are many cities in the world that you can visit time and time again and always find familiar haunts. Beijing is not one of them. The city has been on a fast track to modernisation and the frenzied pace is, at times, dizzying but its collision of cultures is also inspiring and exciting, and there’s always something new to do and see around town.

Photography by Vincent St Thomas

HISTORY & CULTURE

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I’ve lost track of the number of times I’ve visited the Forbidden City, but every time I go I’m mesmerised by the design of the vast complex. Once an imperial palace from the Ming dynasty until the end of the Qing, the UNESCO-listed attraction is the largest palatial complex in the world, its 900 buildings ringed by more than three kilometres of scarlet citadel walls. You can hire an official guide but I prefer picking up one of the audio guides and exploring at my own pace.

Allow a full day and start with a stroll across the massive Tiananmen Square, also home to the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong, before entering the palace complex. At the exit, climb the hill in Jingshan Park for views of the monument.

About 15 kilometres to the north west is the Summer Palace, a one-time playground for emperors looking to flee the heat of Beijing in the warmer months. It’s the largest and most well-preserved royal park in China, home to a huge lake as well as hilltop temples, gardens, pavilions and bridges. Lace up your walking shoes and do a circuit of the lake along the West Causeway to return along the east shore (or vice versa). It gets you away from the crowds and the views are gorgeous. Another way to avoid the crowds is to check in to the luxury Aman Beijing Summer Palace hotel which gives guests out-of-hours access to the World Heritage Site.

Snaking across China’s northern border, the Great Wall is a series of fortifications stretching thousands of kilometres with a history that dates back more than 2000 years. Today, visitors most

Beijing has been on a fast track to modernisation but its collision of cultures is also inspiring and exciting and there is always something new to do and see around town adventurous galleries, not to mention boutiques, cafés, studios and hotels. The neighbourhood of grey-brick buildings in the north east of Beijing was once packed with labourers but the factories were eventually decommissioned and stayed empty for years until 2000 when the city’s artist community relocated there, lured by cheap rent and lofty, light-filled spaces. Highlights today include 798 Art Factory, UCCA, Springs Centre of the Arts, Long March Space and Faurschou Foundation Beijing – there are plenty of quirky alfresco sculptures and murals as well.

A 10-minute drive north east of 798 is Caochangdi Art District, which I find a quiet alternative to its more established sister and home to contemporary White Space Beijing, known for collaborating with emerging and established artists, as well as Galerie Urs Meile, Video Bureau and de Sarthe Beijing. I often begin the day here before visiting 798, where it’s easier to bookend gallery hopping with a meal or drink in one of the many bars and restaurants that dot the complex.

Red Gate Gallery is a Beijing institution for good reason. One of the city’s contemporary art pioneers, the space has a dramatic setting atop the magnificent 16th century Dongbianmen Watchtower. It was opened in 1991 by

Australian-born Brian Wallace, who’s been involved in the city’s burgeoning art scene since his arrival as a student in the 1980s. Today it represents 20 artists, with monthly solo and group exhibitions.

EAT & DRINK When I first arrived in Beijing I was overwhelmed by the diversity of the cuisine.

There was no beef in black-bean sauce or sweet-and-sour pork. Instead, there were the bright flavours of wild mushrooms and herbs in Yunnanese cuisine, there were spicy lamb skewers cooked over open flames in traditional Xinjiang style, there were steaming bowls of Sichuan fish laced with numbing chillies, and there were noodles and dumplings with every filling imaginable.

Walk down any street in Beijing and you’ll find an assortment of hole-in-the-wall familystyle restaurants serving dumplings and steamed buns to hungry locals.

Not far from the Drum and Bell towers in the central lakes district is popular Zhang Mama, where you can sample spicy Sichuan favourites for a handful of dollars. Not far away is Xian Lao Man, a great place if you want

ART & DESIGN A series of restored Bauhaus-style factories and warehouses, Beijing’s 798 Art District is home to some of China’s most avant-garde and

Photography by EQRoy

often see it by section: Badaling is the most popular, for its proximity to Beijing as well as for its well-restored ramparts and walkways, but less-crowded alternatives include Simatai (a crumbling, rugged stretch of wall), Jinshanling (for serious hikers) and Mutianyu, which is my personal favourite.

Mutianyu, about 70 kilometres north east of the city, is one of the best preserved sections of the wall, with more than 20 watchtowers over a two-kilometre walk. There are chairlifts up and fun lovers can take the toboggan slide down.

There are a number of villages at the foot of the wall here, home to cafés as well as trendsetting hotels and it’s worth staying overnight to explore further, eat local cuisine and enjoy a glass of wine on a patio overlooking the wall.

Opposite page: top, views from the Summer Palace; bottom, walking the Great Wall. Left: cycling in Beijing’s 798 district.

Images: Shutterstock.com BNE November/December 2017 | 17

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to sample different Chinese cuisines. Classic Sichuan dishes are on the menu alongside different varieties of dumplings and flavourful noodle dishes.

Dumplings are a Beijing staple and you’ll find them fast and cheap at Qing Feng Steamed Dumpling Shop, a chain that serves hearty meat and vegetable buns and tasty sides. Green Bites offers a healthier, more mindful version of the classic dish serving up tasty parcels filled with organic vegetables from local farms and you can pair your jiaozi with salads and fresh juice – and they deliver.

Spend a bit more at Pure Lotus for vegetarian fare like you’ve never had before, meat-free versions of Chinese classics made from vegetables and tofu in its infinite forms, and the space is cool and calming.

My favourite modern Sichuan restaurant is Transit, located in a restored hutong (courtyard) house in the central lakes district. Begin with cocktails before ordering chilli-spiked dishes such as ‘mouthwatering chicken’, with its numbing flavours and hints of sesame, and dandan mian (noodles topped with spicy pork).

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Photography by Zvonimir Atletic

Photography by A.Aleksandravicius

Below: walk down any street in Beijing and you’ll find an assortment of hole-in-thewall family-style restaurants serving dumplings and steamed buns to hungry locals. Right: the pedestrianonly Qianmen Street is a must-visit to see its beautifully restored shopfronts and intricate city gates. Images: Shutterstock.com

In the same neighbourhood is Mei Fu, occupying a renovated courtyard home decorated to give visitors a taste of 1930s Peking opera – think velvet curtains, antique furniture and black-and-white photos of operatic stars.

The set menu revolves around cuisine from Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces, with a focus on seafood.

There are plenty of arguments over the city’s best Beijing duck restaurant, and Da Dong often wins. The roast ducks are carved tableside and come with freshly made pancakes and condiments. There are a plethora of other duck dishes on the menu as well, backed up with a range of vegetable dishes and soups.

You can’t visit China and not try the local firewater, baijiu, and the best place to develop an appreciation is at Capital Spirits. This industrial-chic space offers a ‘flight’ giving you a taste of each of the four major types, accompanied by explanations from bar staff.

The spirit is much easier to enjoy in cocktails such as the Baijiu Sour, which sees the rice liquor muddled with Cointreau, sour mix, orange bitters and kaffir lime.

SHOP From Ming-dynasty antiques to fine teas, kitschy t-shirts, designer handbags and cuttingedge fashions, shopping in Beijing has it all.

While there’s a certain appeal to the city’s glam malls – I love The Place in Sanlitun for its incredible 250-metre-long LED ‘skyscreen’ –

there’s something thrilling about bargaining for your goods at a market.

Each floor of Silk Street is dedicated to a different product, whether it’s homewares or sporting equipment, sunglasses or pearls. I always end my shopping session here with a manicure and pedicure from one of the small salons on the top floor.

Panjiayuan Antiques Market, also known as the ‘Dirt Market’ because many stallholders spread their wares out on the ground, is by far my favourite retail destination. There are rows and rows of antiques and replicas, paintings and posters, and you won’t leave empty handed.

Given the size of Beijing, it’s best to tackle one neighbourhood per day when it comes to shopping. Lively Sanlitun is the main restaurant and nightlife district and The Village is a series of architecturally bold buildings, home to dozens of shops, restaurants and a cinema. My favourite places include Shanghai Trio, Brand New China and the Scent Library, surrounded by big name designers such as Vera Wang, Kenzo and Kate Spade.

I also love exploring the leafy, atmospheric streets around Beijing’s central lakes. On Guozijian Jie there are homewares stores, teashops and contemporary clothing. At Jingcheng Baixing you can pick up quirky souvenirs such as handcrafted toys and games, traditional paintings and sculptures and, a few shops away, Paint stocks fashion and accessories by some of China’s most daring designers. It’s easy to lose yourself in the surrounding streets

and alleys, home to craft stores and galleries and plenty of small bars and restaurants – the ideal place to end the day.

While it can get extremely busy, Qianmen street nearby is a must-visit if only for its history. This strip has been a commercial hub for more than 600 years – it was renovated for the 2008 Olympic Games and now has beautifully restored shopfronts and intricate city gates, and the fact that it is pedestrian-only makes a visit all the more enjoyable.

SLEEP From big-name brands to boutique boltholes, Beijing is home to some of the most designdriven hotels in Asia. I’m a repeat visitor to The Opposite House (www.theoppositehouse.com), for its central location in Sanlitun as well as for its sleek rooms conceptualised by Japanese designer Kengo Kuma. Studios are all blonde wood and white walls, with floor-to-ceiling windows, hinoki tubs and lacquered Chinese chests, iPads and iPods preloaded with music and neighbourhood guides.

Within easy reach of the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square The Orchid is a boutique hotel in the middle of atmospheric Baochao

Hutong (www.theorchidbeijing.com). There are only 10 rooms surrounding two serene inner courtyards, offering a rare glimpse into traditional life in the Chinese capital.

I’ve spent many an evening on the rooftop terrace, which offers stellar views of the Drum and Bell Towers and the historic hutong neighbourhoods that surround.

There have been times when I’ve visited Beijing’s 798 Art District and never wanted to leave. Rooms and public spaces at Gracie Art Hotel Beijing (www.graciearthotel.com) are decorated with eye-popping contemporary art and Ming-style furniture lacquered in bold colours. Gaze out the window and see largerthan-life sculptures or graffiti murals by the district’s artists in residence.

At the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall there are a number of accommodation options in surrounding villages, including The Brickyard, once a tile factory now transformed into 25 guest rooms with views of the wall.

Accommodations are minimally, but tastefully, furnished, with exposed brick and stone walls, rainforest showers and skylights. Other highlights include a spa, restaurant, fireplace and bikes that you can rent to explore the countryside (www.brickyardatmutianyu.com).

The Brickyard

The Opposite House

Air China begins direct services between Brisbane and Beijing on 11 December departing four times a week. See www.airchina.com.au

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HOOKED ON THE

T

Top End

he Northern Territory is home to some of the best fishing in the world, helped by a long-term strategy by the state government to limit commercial fishing and protect wild stocks. It’s been a bonanza for the Territory, where one group on a recent trip to Arnhem Land boasted they had caught 350 ‘barras’ just two days into a four-day trip (and released all but enough for dinner), while another guest hooked an impressive one-metre-plus catch of the day and yet another boat came home one day with a haul of 95 fish on board.

While there’s good fishing all year round in the Territory, this time of year is particularly good – known by the locals as the ‘build-up’, the season from October to December which gets its name from the rising temperatures and humidity before the monsoonal wet season sets in. It’s also the start of breeding season and the local barra get more active – teasing the fishermen on their tails.

And there’s another lure to hook a barra in Territory waters before the end February 2018 – a whopping $1 million prize. The annual Million Dollar Fish competition kicked off in October and fishermen have four more months to try to catch 101 tagged barramundi that have been released across the Top End, from as far north as remote Wiligi in Arnhem Land to as far south as Borroloola on the McArthur River, and from as far west as Dundee Beach and Bathurst Island to Nhulunbuy in the east.

Only one fish carries the $1 million tag but 100 others carry a tag worth $10,000 each – well, 94 at the time of BNE going to print as six tags had already been redeemed!

Even without that teaser, barramundi fishing is the national sport in the Northern Territory, the fish everyone wants to catch – and catching one is quite an adventure, says Alex Julius, fishing guru and editor of the National Australian Fishing Annual, based in Darwin. “It grows big, it gets out of the water and leaps across the surface with spectacular jumps. It’s a stunning fish to look at, silvery white – there’s hardly another fish that’s more attractive to look at – and it’s bloody good eating,” he says. But even this die-hard angler says the experience is not all about the fish. “Your eyes are always looking at nature: birds, animals – crocodiles as well but that’s all right as long as you stay out of the water – beautiful lily pads and wonderful vegetation, cycads, paperbarks and all that.”

There’s no doubt the Northern Territory has a vast network of waterways – huge tidal rivers, inland billabongs, mangrove-lined estuaries, a harbour vastly bigger than the one in Sydney and a picturesque coastline.

So where does a beginner, well, begin?

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Darwin

The harbour has been closed to commercial netting for more than 20 years so this is a good place to start, says Julius. It’s easily accessible, big and exploring any of the harbour arms is like going back 500 years, to see the land as it used to be. “Shoal Bay, fed by the Howard River, is very good barramundi fishing in the build-up,” says Julius. Large barramundi are regularly caught at ‘The Rock’ in Shoal Bay during the build-up.

Lesser known to outsiders is the good bottom fishing in Darwin Harbour. Artificial reefs provide good catches of jewfish, coral trout and golden snapper, and crabbing is also good, says Julius. There are many charter and tour operators for beginners and experts alike, for example www.darwinharbourfishingcharters.com.au Even if you don’t catch anything the ‘Best Fish and Chips in Australia’ are – you guessed it – in Darwin at Frying Nemo, which was announced the winner of a nationwide vote in September.

Tiwi Islands

Bathurst and Melville islands, known as the Tiwi islands, lie about 80km north of Darwin where there is some great estuary fishing for barramundi and excellent blue water fishing, but access is not allowed without a permit and travel is by ferry or light aircraft from Darwin. This is a trip best taken with a guided tour. For example, see www.tiwiadventures.com.au

Kakadu

World heritage-listed Kakadu National Park has a rich Aboriginal cultural heritage and some excellent fishing but strict regulations apply.

Within the park the tidal sections of the South and East Alligator Rivers are easily accessed by sealed roads and concrete boat ramps.

There are dozens of pristine billabongs on Kakadu’s floodplains and plenty of barramundi to be caught at most of them and Julius reckons the region comes into its own during the run-off (March and April).

Shannon Summerton is one of the converted who came from Adelaide and didn’t want to go back. Now he runs Kakadu Fishing Tours, see www.kakadufishingtours.com.au

Arnhem Land

As this is the largest and most remote Aboriginal land reserve in the country the best way to travel here is with an accredited tour operator who will look after all the required permits and offer guiding services, equipment and even accommodation. Remember those big

Arnhem Land Barramundi Lodge, about 300km north east of Darwin and near the Aboriginal community of Maningrida, accommodates up to 18 guests in quite new luxury ‘Safari Suites’ for a getaway of serious sport fishing in this pristine natural environment

Fishing is so good in the Northern Territory it’s hard not to get hooked, even for first timers, and there’s a million dollar prize for one lucky catch

catches mentioned earlier? They were caught by guests at Arnhem Land Barramundi Lodge, near the Aboriginal community of Maningrida, about 300km (a 60-minute flight) north east of Darwin where the fishing is so good guests are known to get cranky if barra is not on the dinner menu!

The lodge has upped the ante on the Million Dollar Fish challenge – the first guest to bag a tagged barra before 28 February will receive future travel to the lodge to match their official competition winnings of $10,000. See www.barralodge.com.au

Katherine

The Victoria River region to the west, the Daly River to the north west, Kakadu to the north east and the Roper River and Borroloola region to the south east all provide good fishing from Katherine. Julius’s tip is to call in to see Warren De With at Rod and Rifle Tackleworld in town to get the local knowledge about where to go, what you need and even where to stay. In fact this is a hot tip for any location – the local tackle shop will have their finger on the pulse of where the fish are biting.

The Roper is famous for its barramundi fishing, particularly east of Roper Bar, the crossing separating the saltwater and freshwater sections of the river.

It provides great lure fishing during the run-off, but there’s good barra to be caught through the dry season (May to September) too on live bait.

Julius admits the Daly River is a favourite of his, halfway between Darwin and Katherine. “It’s the most beautiful river in the Northern Territory in my opinion, and it’s almost all barra fishing.” This is where you’ll find the river lined with rainforest and tall paperbarks. The bonus is that many that have fallen into the river over the years now provide perfect snag habitats for barramundi.

For more information see www.northernterritory.com and where to stay, play and fish at www.milliondollarfish.com.au

Fly direct between Brisbane and Darwin daily with services operated by Jetstar, Qantas, Tigerair and Virgin Australia

15% off your room rates all year round!

Atop Singapore's Famous Orchard Road BNE November/December 2017 | 21

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C A S TAWAY O N A P R I VAT E I S L A N D

From unlimited Champagne to camping like a survivor, there’s an island you can rent for you and your besties on the Great Barrier Reef coast, as Shelley Thomas discovers

ORPHEUS ISLAND

This 14-room luxury private island resort, 80km north of Townsville, is blessed with a perfect beach, giant clam ‘garden’ and a day spa named Gwandalan for ‘rest and peace’ that embraces the principles of Indigenous herbalism and healing.

Spend a day out in Pioneer Bay on a dinghy adventure, or exploring the work of the marine research station to find out about more than 1000 species of fish found on the surrounding reef and snorkel among more than 340 varieties of coral.

It’s all yours for … $24,400 a night (minimum three nights) for up to 28 guests, including gourmet meals created with fresh local produce, Australian fine wines and beer, daily snorkelling and nature-based guided activities, use of motorised dinghies, paddleboards, kayaks, catamarans, snorkelling equipment and light fishing gear. See www.orpheus.com.au

BEDARRA ISLAND

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Billed as the “ultimate in barefoot luxury”, this private island resort off the coast of Mission Beach, between Cairns and Townsville, has welcomed a string of A-listers including Elton John, but it keeps the number of guests strictly limited as part of a passionate commitment to

minimise its impact on the environment. After a sustainability study six years ago it reduced the number of guest villas to nine, each one camouflaged by the rainforest but commanding spectacular ocean views.

Guests can expect the full range of creature comforts and all-inclusive activities (kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, snorkelling and fishing gear, dinghies, tennis, even gourmet picnic hampers).

It’s all yours for … exclusive use starts from $15,450 a night for ‘everything’. That includes exquisite food and wine for you and your 17 closest friends. Oh, and unlimited Jacquart Champagne. Cheers! See www.bedarra.com.au

HAGGERSTONE ISLAND

Anna Turner, who jointly owns the resort with husband Roy, first anchored off the remote island in the 1970s at the age of 18, while looking for treasure with her filmmaker dad (John Heyer). It took another 10 years or so for her to return to carve out a life for her now grown-up family and a few lucky guests.

According to Anna, Haggerstone Island (located so far up the east coast of Australia – about 600km north of Cairns – that the nearest

Following a sustainability study the number of guest villas on Bedarra Island has been reduced, each one camouflaged by the rainforest but commanding spectacular ocean views town, Lockhart River, is still a 40-minute flight away), is the “best place to shake the world out of people”. It comes with a 45-foot jet boat, a skipper (Anna’s husband, or son, Sam) and a mission to take you wherever you please: mainland waterfalls, the Sir Charles Hardy Islands, or spearfishing the nearby reefs.

Haggerstone is also a foodie haven. Roy is adept at cooking and his signature dish is a toss-up between lobster ravioli, caught fresh and adapted from a Nobu recipe, and coral trout with curry leaves.

It’s all yours for … $6800 per night (minimum four nights – including meals, accommodation, equipment hire, tackle, bait and activities). A prime spot for you and 11 guests to go all Swiss Family Robinson. For details see www.haggerstoneisland.com.au

PUMPKIN ISLAND

Orpheus Island

A tiny gem of just six hectares located off the coast of Yeppoon, in the Southern Great Barrier Reef’s Keppel Group of islands, Pumpkin Island is something of a do-it-yourself option (no chef or housekeeping), but who’s to complain when accommodation is covered in seven self-catering, eco-friendly cottages and bungalows (all with private decks and barbecues). Paddle boats, kayaks and stand-up paddleboards are provided free of charge.

It’s all yours for … $2870 per night for 14 adults (more can be accommodated at extra

Pumpkin Island

charge and children under 16 stay free). See www.pumpkinisland.com.au

LIZARD ISLAND

‘Exclusively yours’ on this Great Barrier Reef island, 240km north of Cairns and 27km off the Queensland coast, means accommodation for up to 80 guests, three gourmet meals a day, picnic hampers if desired, Champagne, premium Australian wines and use of a motorised dinghy to explore the surrounding 24 powdery white beaches. Access is only by private charter flight from Cairns.

It’s all yours for ... a starting price of $230,000 for a minimum two nights. For more information see www.lizardisland.com.au

‘SURVIVOR’ ISLAND

The adventure begins the moment you’re dropped off on Middle Island, off the shore of 1770 (just shy of 500km north of Brisbane) by boat and then you can create your own Survivorstyle strategy. It’s BYO sleeping bag to stay in tents (with a view) but facilities stretch to a camp kitchen and fridge – and you’re still in paradise.

Action ranges from kayaking, sandboarding, snorkelling, swimming, exploring by polycraft boat, sea and creek fishing, or hiking to Queensland’s oldest lighthouse on Bustard Head.

It’s all yours for … $2250 per night for exclusive use of a 15-man camp site. See www.1770castaway.com.au

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ESCAPE EXTRA

DRIVE THIS WAY It was an epic drive across continents taken by Tony and Maureen Wheeler more than 40 years ago that provided them with the inspiration to launch Lonely Planet guide books, but they’re not the only ones who have found the lure of the open road irresistible and the newest Lonely Planet book provides fresh inspiration to travel cross country – on any continent.

Epic Drives of the World contains more than 50 of the best routes, from classics such as Route 66 (from Los Angeles to Chicago) and the Pacific Coast Highway in the US to the Great Ocean Road in Victoria and the Great Barrier Reef Drive, otherwise known as the Captain Cook Highway, in North Queensland. Some are challenging (such as crossing the Kalahari Desert in Botswana) and others not very long (such as the traverse from the Scottish mainland to the Isle of Skye) but once you take to these roads, you won’t want to stop. Epic Drives of the World, published by Lonely Planet, is out now.

Qantas and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Los Angeles to connect with the start of Route 66

NEW CLIFFTOP BEACH CLUB IN BALI

Ulu Cliffhouse is the newest beach club to open in the surfer’s paradise of Uluwatu on the south western tip of Bali. In a nod to the popularity of the local beaches, named in the top five surf spots in the world, there’s a resident surfboard shaper, while facilities include a music recording studio, art space, pool, a cliff-hugging bar and DJs to spin the tunes day and night from the clifftop vantage point. Meanwhile the menu boasts refreshments that include house-made cold pressed juices, body tonics, kombucha, jamu and raw bar specialties by the Peruvian chef. It’s been open only a month and so far the reviews are all five star. See www.ulucliffhouse.com Jetstar, Malindo Air and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Bali

Straddie glam camp is back Following the success of last year’s ‘pop up’ Flash Camp on North Stradbroke Island, the glam tents are back on the beachfront at Adder Rock, near the village of Point Lookout on the island’s northern coast. Each tent includes comfortable bedding, fresh towels, chairs and power, fully set up for the arrival of guests.

Bathroom facilities are shared with the Adder Rock camp site and nearby facilities include a general store, scuba centre and Point Lookout’s restaurants and shops within walking distance. Glampers can explore the island, known as ‘Minjerribah’ by the local Quandamooka people, by taking the North Gorge Walk, scubadiving or snorkelling, fishing, hiking to freshwater lakes or taking a 4WD tour on the beach. Rates from $99 per night for two people.

See www.straddiecamping.com.au or call (07) 3409 9668.

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WOW FACTOR IN SHANGHAI

There’s no fear of missing out during a stay at the new W Shanghai The Bund hotel, it’s close to many of the attractions of the city but even if you arrive clueless about what to do and where to go, W’s signature Whatever/Whenever service is available to tap into the best experiences, such as a private moonlight cruise along the Huangpu River, shopping Nanjinglu with a personal stylist, making xiaolongbao under the eagle eye of master chefs or just scoring the hottest tickets and best tables in town.

Guests also can connect to W Insider for a local’s guide to what’s new, next or not-to-miss.

Even room types are not ‘suites’ but a choice of ‘wonderful’, ‘spectacular’ or ‘fabulous’ rooms and the ‘Extreme WOW’ equivalent of a presidential suite. W Shanghai The Bund is at 66 Lvshun Road, Shanghai, less than 35km from Shanghai Pudong Airport and accessible by metro.

China Eastern Airlines flies daily direct between Brisbane and Shanghai

Comfortable rooms and honest, authentic service are just the start - Jen Fast, free Wi-Fi throughout the Hotel Be at the airport in 25 minutes with direct access to the AirTrain Start the day right with Espresso coffee machines in every room In the heart of the CBD, just 5 minutes from Queen Street Mall Always the best rates on offer, visit hoteljen.com to book now

Hotel Jen Brisbane, 159 Roma Street, Brisbane, 4000 hjbb@hoteljen.com | www.hoteljen.com | 3238 2222 BNE November/December 2017 | 25

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CULTURAL MASTERPIECE FOR MIDDLE EAST

WINDOW ON THE REEF A $54 million aquarium has opened in Cairns as a centre to educate visitors about the Great Barrier Reef and rainforest. Inside it displays 10 life-like ecosystems, 71 live exhibits and 15,000 creatures but, according to manager Julie Cullen, it’s purpose is to provide more than just a lot to look at. “In order to instil the importance of respecting, protecting and conserving precious reef and rainforest environments, we must first promote understanding. It is particularly important to create awareness among visitors of the animals and plants that are critically endangered or rarely seen, such as emerald green tree monitors, freshwater sawfish, Jardine River painted turtles and scalloped hammerhead sharks.”

A walk through the Cairns Aquarium can take more than two hours to follow a path of habitats from rainforest to mangroves, on to the Great Barrier Reef and the open sea. Open daily, entry from $42 (adult).

For more information see www.cairnsaquarium.com.au Jetstar, Qantas/QantasLink, Tigerair and Virgin Australia fly direct between Brisbane and Cairns

Louvre Abu Dhabi opens in November showcasing more than 600 artworks that originate from civilisations all over the world and at least half are on loan from 13 leading museums in France, including its namesake in Paris. The opening collections include works by legendary masters such as Leonardo da Vinci, Vincent van Gogh and Pablo Picasso as well as contemporary artists and new commissions created specifically for Louvre Abu Dhabi. The museum itself is a work of art, a cluster of 23 galleries sitting below a 180-metre-wide dome made from nearly 8000 metal stars set in a geometric pattern that create a ‘rain of light’ when sunshine filters through. Louvre Abu Dhabi is on Saadiyat Island, less than 10 minutes from downtown Abu Dhabi.

Etihad flies direct between Brisbane and Abu Dhabi daily

FROM

UN & FES E F G SAOR A F

3 3-10

$69

M.AU

INDOOR SKYDIVING IN THE HEART OF SURFERS PARADISE | GOLD COAST

26 | BNE November/December 2017

NEW APP TO FOLLOW

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK IN JAPAN

T

ohoku is a region north of Tokyo that has so far been off the radar for all but the most intrepid travellers but a new guide aims to smooth the way for more visitors.

Sendai, the gateway to the region, is one of the best-kept secrets in Japan and just 90 minutes by bullet train from Tokyo. It provides an entry point to lush, unspoilt landscapes (April and May sees it in all its cherry blossom splendour), cultural sites such as the Yamadera Risshakuji Temple (worth climbing the 1000+ steps up a mountainside to see), hot springs, cycling and hiking trails, and more sushi restaurants in the Miyagi prefecture than any other district in Japan.

Visitors also can explore samurai villages, local wineries, make their own saké (at Sekinoichi Sake Brewery), learn crafts with local artisans and meditate like a monk.

The new website also provides a guide to accommodation options from traditional Ryokans and farm stays to luxury spas such as Chikusenso Mt.Zao Onsen Resort & Spa, Yunushi Ichijo, Onyado Kawasemi and the Oirase Keiryu Hotel on the edge of a stream that displays stunning ice falls in winter.

Activities include snowshoe walking and skiing or mountain biking and nature walks in summer. Find out more about exploring Tohoku region at www.luxurytraveljapan.jp

Japan National Tourism Organisation (JNTO) has launched a new free app to make travel in the country even easier. It provides a range of helpful information from public transport routes and locations for free WiFi or ATMs to restaurant listings, luggage forwarding and storage locations, safety alerts and more. Available for iPhones and Android in English, Korean and Chinese languages. See www.jnto.go.jp/smartapp

Qantas flies direct between Brisbane and Tokyo daily

y a l P d Stay aat n

BRISBANE MARRIOTT

Soak up the sights of Brisbane as you “stay and play” in style at Brisbane Marriott.

Enjoy a night or two in a river view room and feast on a variety of dining options including our Seafood Dinner Buffet, Afternoon Tea and Buffet Breakfast.

For our latest deals visit: brisbanemarriott.com or call (07) 3303 8000

BNE November/December 2017 | 27

TASTE

Holiday SPIRITS Tanquillity Brisbane River Grill, International Terminal, Level 3 A passenger travelling to Vanuatu asked mixologist Ricardo Baker to surprise her with something tropical and that provided the inspiration for the Tanquillity cocktail now on the menu at Brisbane River Grill and one of its most popular drinks.

Ingredients 2 lime wedges 30ml gin 15ml Midori Melon Liqueur

It’s not unusual for holidaymakers to start their trip before they reach the departure gate with a cocktail that evokes their destination: something fruity on the way to Hawaii perhaps, or classics such as the Manhattan and Singapore Sling. Foodie blogger Kerry Heaney found five of the best served at Brisbane Airport 15ml Malibu Coconut Rum 30ml pineapple juice 4-6 mint leaves Ice

To make: muddle the lime wedges in a shaker then add gin, Midori Melon Liqueur, Malibu Coconut Rum and pineapple juice. Take the mint leaves in your hand and gently clap your hands together until you can smell the mint aroma. Drop the mint into the shaker and fill with ice. Shake vigorously and double strain into a chilled martini glass.

Windmill & Co, International Terminal, Level 3 The mixologists at Windmill & Co combine their barista expertise with their spirit-ual talent, blending espresso with liqueurs and artistically layering the flavours in the pour. A coffee-cultured update on New York’s popular martini.

Rum Old Fashioned Aviation Pier Café and Bar, Domestic Terminal, next to Gate 43 Small batch Cargo Cult spiced rum is the base of Aviation Pier’s simple but popular Old Fashioned. The bar has given it a unique twist, swapping the traditional Old Fashioned whiskey base with spiced rum, produced from rich volcanic soils, pure water and sugarcane grown in the sundrenched tropics of the South Pacific, its sweetness tempered by dry spices that give it an extra kick. The first step on an adventure to the Top End, we say.

Ingredients 60ml Cargo Cult spiced rum 20ml simple sugar syrup Dash of bitters Lemon twist

To make: mix the ingredients in a short glass over ice and garnish with a twist of lemon.

Cocktail photography by Eric Wang

28 | BNE November/December 2017

Corretto Café & Bar, International Terminal, Level 4 Manager Lee McKimmin’s own passion for blueberries and mojitos led to this combination on the cocktail menu and they soon discovered patrons loved it too. A refreshing aperitif before boarding for a tropical island getaway. The bar celebrates the festive season in November and December serving a cheese board special with two glasses of house wine for $35 from 4-5pm and with $15 cocktails from 4-6pm on Fridays and Sundays.

Christmas-themed cocktails, including a Santa Claus-mopolitan and The Grinch, also will be added to the menu for a limited time.

Ingredients 60ml Bacardi Rum 5-7 blueberries 5ml lime juice 1-3 lime slices 7 mint leaves 15ml ginger simple syrup* Soda water Edible flowers for garnish

Macciato Martini

Ingredients 30ml Patron XO Café 15ml Frangelico 10ml simple sugar syrup 30ml espresso 15ml Baileys Irish Cream Liqueur 3 coffee beans for garnish

Blueberry Mojito

Gettin’ Figgy wit It

Glasshouse Bar, Domestic Terminal, near Gate 40 This funky twist on a classic To make: chill a martini glass with mojito is a nod to the ’90s hit by actor, rapper and comedian Will ice then discard ice. Pour Patron Smith ‘Gettin’ Jiggy wit It’, and XO, Frangelico, simple syrup and espresso into a Boston shaker with based on the new Esprit de Figues ice, shake hard, strain three quarters fig-flavoured liqueur. A sip before embarking to the Whitsundays of mixture into martini glass. Add perhaps? Cocktails are $15 at Baileys to the shaker and shake Glasshouse Bar during November hard again. Strain the remainder and December. of mixture into the martini glass Ingredients using a cocktail spoon to help layer.

30ml Esprit de Figues Liqueur Garnish with coffee beans.

15ml lychee liqueur 15ml lime juice Lemonade Soda water Lime ‘wheel’ slices for garnish Fresh mint sprigs for garnish

To make: fill a hurricane glass with crushed ice. Pour in liqueurs and lime juice. Top it off with equal parts lemonade and soda water and garnish with lime slices and mint sprig.

To make: muddle mint, blueberries, ginger syrup and fresh lime together then add ice, pour over Bacardi and top up with soda water. Garnish with more mint, lime slices, flowers and a blueberry straw (blueberries on a small skewer). *Make as for simple syrup with sugar and water, adding 100g of fresh ginger peeled and cut into very thin rounds, steep then strain before adding to drink mix.

HEAR THE BNE BEATS Music is in the air at Brisbane Airport over the festive season as local musicians perform at selected venues within the International and Domestic Terminals. Tune in at Domestic Terminal Level 2 Fridays 4-7pm at Great Northern Bar (near Gate 36) and Sundays 4-7pm at Glasshouse Bar (near Gate 40). At International Terminal the music plays on Wednesdays 4-7pm and Fridays 10pm-1am at Brisbane River Grill Level 3 (after security), Thursdays 4-7pm at Corretto Café and Bar Level 4 (before security) and Fridays 4-7pm at The Botanist Level 4 (before security).

TASTE

Countdown to GC2018

FOOD WITH A VIEW The race is on to find medal-worthy tables with winning views at the Gold Coast 2018 Commonwealth Games, as Geoff Stead reports

T

he countdown to the Commonwealth Games has begun and while athletes across 18 sports and seven para-sports are putting in the training hard yards ready to go for gold we’ve been on the lookout for the not-so-obvious vantage points to catch some Games action while soaking up picture-postcard views.

Just imagine – marathon runners on the iconic esplanade at Surfers Paradise; road race walkers going heel-toe along the beachfront at Currumbin; beach volleyballers spiking and digging in the shadow of the giant Norfolk pines at Coolangatta; and road cyclists racing the clock through the lush green Gold Coast Hinterland.

Like the athletes now in heavy training, Games fans who were quickest out of the starting blocks might have snared the best tickets at sought-after stadium events but some of the best seats at several events could be just a restaurant reservation away.

Events including the marathon, triathlon, road cycling and the road race walk will go past some of the Gold Coast’s coolest cafés and restaurants and within cheering distance of several beachside bars and sun-drenched watering holes. Simply study the GC2018 program (see www.gc2018.com), identify the non-stadium events that get your heart racing and be among the first to book a trackside table. Here’s a guide to give you a starting chance …

EVENTS: Race walks 8 April; Cycling Time Trial 10 April; Cycling Road Race 14 April

CURRUMBIN BEACHFRONT

Currumbin is one of the most beautiful beaches on the Gold Coast. From the Alley to Elephant Rock is a broad white, sandy beach flanked by the winding Duringan Street and Pacific Parade that will be the start and finish point for some of the world’s best cyclists and road walkers as they race for glory.

TOP SPOTS: CURRUMBIN Currumbin Vikings SLSC (741 Pacific Parade, Currumbin) www.supporters.currumbinslsc.com.au/ Taking GC2018 bookings: Yes. Salt Mill (785 Pacific Parade, Currumbin). Taking GC2018 bookings: Don’t take bookings, limited space.

Elephant Rock Café (776 Pacific Parade, Currumbin) www.elephantrock.com.au/ Taking GC2018 bookings: Yes. Beach Shack Café (818 Pacific Parade, Currumbin). Taking GC2018 bookings: Yes. Above and right: Elephant Rock Café

These are not the only venues on the courses and status for bookings and opening times during the Commonwealth Games should be checked before visiting.

Café Dbar

between Greenmount and Coolangatta and the adjoining Marine Parade is home to chic cuisine and fabulous beachside bistros.

TOP SPOTS: COOLANGATTA Coolangatta SLSC (Marine Parade, Coolangatta) www.coolangattasurfclub.com/ Taking GC2018 bookings: No. Bin 72 (121/72-80 Marine Parade, Coolangatta) www.bin72.com.au/ Taking GC2018 bookings: Yes.

EVENT: Beach Volleyball 6-12 April

COOLANGATTA BEACHFRONT Cooly Rocks On is an annual nostalgia festival at Coolangatta Beach but those words could easily become the mantra for this stretch of coastline when beach volleyball comes to town during the 2018 Gold Coast Commonwealth Games. While medal matches will be played in a purpose-built, ticketed stadium overlooking the famous Kirra Point surf break, warmup and practise courts will be on the beach 30 | BNE November/December 2017

Café 28 (The Strand, 72-80 Marine Parade, Coolangatta). Taking GC2018 bookings: No bookings required.

Raw Energy (110 Marine Parade, Coolangatta) www.rawenergy.com.au/ Taking GC2018 bookings: Yes. George’s Paragon (110 Marine Parade, Coolangatta) www.georgesparagon.com/ Taking GC2018 bookings: Only take bookings for more than 10 guests.

Café Dbar (275 Boundary Street, Coolangatta) www.cafedbar.co/ Taking GC2018 bookings: No, but call ahead if you have a group to check space is available.

Café 28

Fun on the side EVENTS: Marathon 15 April; Triathlon 5 April

SOUTHPORT BROADWATER PARKLANDS The marathon course hugs the shoreline for about 20km between Biggera Waters and Burleigh Heads, passing many good eateries in between.

While the course is a gruelling 42.195km for competitors, spectators will be able to watch them run both ways as they complete the circuit, along the sea front at Main Beach, past millionaire’s row at Mermaid Beach and past Pelican Point at Labrador.

The Triathlon is a sprint event for the first time at this Commonwealth Games and while the swim event and finish line is a ticketed enclosure, the 20km bike circuit and 1.5km run from Broadwater Parklands to Biggera Waters is free to watch along the same stretch of road as the marathon.

TOP SPOTS: NORTHERN GOLD COAST-SURFERS PARADISEMERMAID BEACH Three Sixty Grand Hotel (360 Marine Parade, Labrador) www.thegrandhotel.com.au/ Taking GC2018 bookings: Yes. Charis Seafood (371 Marine Parade, Labrador) www.charisseafood.com.au/ Taking GC2018 bookings: No bookings required.

Seaduction Restaurant + Bar (8 The Esplanade, Surfers Paradise) www.seaduction.com.au/ Taking GC2018 bookings: Provisional bookings contingent on any functions booked at same time Sandbar (52 Esplanade, Surfers Paradise). Taking GC2018 bookings: Yes. Hurricane’s Grill and Bar (4-14 The Esplanade, Level 1, Surfers Paradise) www.hurricanesgrillandbar.com.au/ Taking GC2018 bookings: Yes. Q1 Skypoint Observation Deck (9 Hamilton Avenue, Surfers Paradise) www.skypoint.com.au/ Taking GC2018 bookings: No bookings required unless guest list exceeds 20 people.

Gringo Loco Cantina (101/4 Esplanade, Surfers Paradise) www.gringolococantina.com.au/ Taking GC2018 bookings: Yes. Lola’s Restaurant (101 Old Burleigh Road, Broadbeach) www.lolasrestaurants.com/ Taking GC2018 bookings: Yes. Northcliffe SLSC (51 Garfield Terrace, Surfers Paradise) www.northcliffesurfclub.com.au/ Taking GC2018 bookings: Yes. TOP SPOTS: MIAMI-BURLEIGH HEADS Piccolo Espresso (2 Hythe Street, Miami). Taking GC2018 bookings: Not yet but everyone is welcome on the day.

BSKT Café (4 Lavarack Road, Nobby’s Beach) www.bskt.com.au/ Taking GC2018 bookings: Yes and can book online.

Burleigh Heads Hotel (4 The Esplanade, Burleigh Heads) www.burleighheadshotel.com.au/ Taking GC2018 bookings: Yes. Above and right: Three Sixty, Grand Hotel, Labrador

DINNER AND DANCE Tango dancing lessons brought Stewart Shuker and Julie Trace together and now they are sharing the love at their café – which is so much more than a coffee spot. By day it’s a quiet oasis in the vibrant hubbub of West End’s main street, serving an exceptional collection of herbal teas – Blue Magic, Apple Tree and Well Being are just a few – alongside their special coffee roast. Then at night the drinks list turns to cocktails and on occasional Saturdays the deck becomes the dance floor for tango and salsa – with experts from local school Rio Rhythmics setting the tempo and everyone invited to join in. The name says a lot about your hosts – Stewart is an artist and his works infiltrate the space while Julie has an eye for content and curates it perfectly here. Artista is in the West Village lane at 97 Boundary Street, West End, open seven days and Friday and Saturday nights.

See www.facebook.com/artistacoffee/

Christmas comedy While the posh Stamford Plaza Brisbane is a far cry from the shambolic scenes of the Fawlty Towers dining room made famous by the television show in the 1970s, it’s not afraid to serve up a side of comic hilarity with Christmas dinner as host to a performance of Faulty Towers the Dining Experience.

Guests become diners at the ‘Faulty Towers’ restaurant as characters Basil, Sybil and Manuel meddle through the meal service with eye-watering consequences in a mostly improvised homage to the iconic TV series. At River Room, Stamford Plaza Brisbane, 13 December.

Cost, $159 per person includes three-course dinner. To book call (07) 3100 5749 or see www.stamford.com.au

WHAT’S ON

COMING OF AGE

On the eve of turning 21 Lorde has already achieved star status, winning two Grammy Awards, curating a blockbuster film soundtrack, playing the main stage at Coachella and releasing her second charttopping album. KEN SUMMIT spoke to her ahead of her arrival in Brisbane on the Melodrama world tour …

The single ‘Green Light’ is about … moving on from something that you wanted to let go of for a long time. The green light that I wanted was the freedom of not being tied up in a situation or agonising about someone or something. So it’s that freedom of being solo that I was talking about.

I hope I’m not too much of a drama queen … but I do feel everything really intensely. So I think there is an element of melodrama in these sort of vivid, exaggerated emotions which I do have. I think I’m quite chilled but I can see something out of the window and be like, ‘Ah that’s so amazing’ and be so moved by it, which is probably how melodrama manifests for me.

My latest album is called Melodrama because … when you’re 19 (when I wrote it) everything feels like the biggest deal in the world and my emotions felt so singular like, ‘No-one’s ever been this sad before’ or ‘No-one’s ever been this happy’. So there was sort of an element of me laughing at myself. It was also just the craziest year, so politically turbulent, and then all the ups and downs of my personal life. It really felt like we were living in a literal melodrama.

I have always … had a deep voice, I’ve always sung alto in choirs and bass in quartets and it’s just who I am.

HOT TICKETS

It can be full-on being a young person in 2017… young people are so politically aware

No matter what your favourite era of music is, from ’60s pop and ’70s folk to present day hip hop, there’s a feast of entertainment coming our way as legends in the biz land in Brisbane for mega concerts to kick start summer

32 | BNE November/December 2017

right now and socially aware and just trying to be in conversation with each other about a lot of that stuff and trying to make sense of it.

It was actually nice to turn 20 … I felt like it was time to leave being a teenager behind. I felt good about moving on. [Lorde turns 21 on 7 November.]

As I get older … I feel like I’m much more settled in knowing that I am quite singular and that’s OK [laughs]. It gets a bit deep with the music, I find myself talking about my mental state and it’s full-on.

I have always … had such a strong opinion about all things production and as I’ve got older I’ve felt more confident asserting myself in that way. The music is inside my brain and if I just stopped at the writing it wouldn’t sound like my brain. So, stepping up and becoming a producer I found super liberating. I love doing it.

I’ve got a bit of a goal for myself … in the next couple of years as I’m on tour I want to get better and I eventually want to produce an entire record myself.

Text: The Interview People Image:©Vincent Ferrane/modds/ Headpress

Lorde

Lorde plays the Riverstage, City Botanic Gardens, 23 November.

Tickets $99 plus fees, see www.ticketmaster.com.au

Drake

Culture Club

Fans have been teased there may be another collaboration in the air between Drake and The Weeknd, most recently when the two appeared on stage together at OVO Fest in their home town of Toronto, but the two chart-toppers are not likely to cross paths touring Australia (see right). Drake plays Brisbane Entertainment Centre on 10 November. Tickets from $101.75 plus fees, see www.ticketek.com.au

Boy George is making the most of his popularity as a coach on the The Voice Australia and brings Culture Club back for another national tour before he joins the judging panel on The Voice again next year. Another ’80s icon, Tom Bailey from The Thompson Twins, supports with the Eurogliders. At Brisbane Entertainment Centre, 2 December. Tickets from $124.30 plus fees, see www.ticketek.com.au

WELCOME TO

WONDERLAND

PUTTING ON THE GLITZ After a sold-out season in last year’s Wonderland Bombshell Burlesque is back and puts the Vegas back in BrisVegas with a fast-paced and flashy tribute to the glitziest city on Earth, on 30 November to 2 December, tickets $35 (adult) plus fees.

Just when you need some light relief at the end of the year along comes the delightfully whacky Wonderland Festival at Brisbane Powerhouse, promising an end-of-year send-off in true carnival spirit. Brisbane Powerhouse artistic director Kris Stewart calls it “Brisbane’s ultimate summer-starter” popping the cork night after night on a world-class program of unabashed revelry.

“You’re encouraged to have a rowdy time,” he says. There are more than 25 events to inspire the revelry. Here are five top picks…

SEARCH FOR MR RIGHT

THE POWER OF ILLUSION

In There’s Something About Mary(s) Cassie George conjures all the men she thought she’d meet and all the men she did meet who shared her passion for jazz, dance and Liza Minnelli while studying musical theatre, on 23-26 November, tickets $25 (adult) plus fees.

Magician Pete Booth and mentalist Sean Mergard use their powers to conjure a notorious killer in Nefarious, but will he show? A peek behind the curtain of illusion, on 23-26 November, tickets $25 plus fees.

NEW USE FOR WASTE Making comment on the sort of world young people will inherit in a growing mountain of rubbish, a dozen young performers use discarded objects in an energetic display of aerials and circus acts in Wasteland, on 24-25 November, tickets $24 (adult) plus fees.

HEART-POUNDING ACROBATICS Circus artist Marianna Joslin was born with a rare heart condition that went undiagnosed for years and her latest work Fallot is modern acrobatics with a heart-beating rhythm, on 23-26 November, tickets $27 (adult) plus fees.

Wonderland Festival is on 23 November to 3 December at Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm. For program and tickets see www.brisbanepowerhouse.org

The Weeknd

Sir Paul McCartney

Yusuf/Cat Stevens

There’s no doubt The Weeknd is a ‘Starboy’, with two Grammy Awards, an Academy Award nomination and record sales in the millions in just a couple of years. His Starboy: Legend of the Fall world tour began in February, immediately attracting rave reviews, and includes Australia for the first time, landing at Brisbane Entertainment Centre on 6 December. Tickets from $109.90 plus fees. See www.livenation.com.au

Legend in his own lifetime, Rock and Roll Hall of Famer and 21-time Grammy Award winner Sir Paul McCartney tours Australia for the first time in 24 years with a show that celebrates his career from his earliest work with The Quarrymen to his most recent collaboration with Kanye West and Rihanna, and there will be fireworks!

At Suncorp Stadium, 9 December. Tickets from $169 plus fees at www.ticketek.com.au

Another Rock and Roll Hall of Famer, Yusuf, aka Cat Stevens, celebrates 50 years since his debut album and first hit single. Since then Tea for the Tillerman and Teaser and the Firecat made him a household name in the Baby Boomer generation and since 9/11 he has become an outspoken advocate for peace and unity. At Brisbane Entertainment Centre, 9 December. Tickets from $168.50 plus fees, see www.ticketek.com.au

BNE November/December 2017 | 33

WHAT’S ON

A Marriage Adrift When Ingmar Bergman’s Scenes from a Marriage first aired on Swedish television in the 1970s it was lauded on one hand for its realism and insight to the psychological tension within a marriage, yet blamed on another for its supposed influence on the increasing divorce rates in Sweden and Europe at the time.

One critic at the time called it “one of the truest, most luminous love stories ever made” and several film directors have credited it with influencing their own works years later. It appears to have stood the test of time, most recently adapted for the stage by Australian playwright Joanna Murray-Smith which will have its Australian premiere in Brisbane.

Director of the Queensland Theatre production Paige Rattray says this adaptation is true to the original and audiences can expect a wild ride as it dissects the complexity of marriage.

The story focuses on Marianne and Johan, a power couple who appear to have the perfect marriage until infidelity shatters the façade, and the play follows the twists and turns of their relationship over the next 10 years. Award-winning actors Marta Dusseldorp and Ben Winspear, who starred together as husband and wife in A Place to Call Home and are married in real-life, play the couple at odds with each other on stage but Dusseldorp says it’s not about a couple destroying each other. “It’s about a couple learning to communicate with each other; actually there are very few arguments in the piece,” she says. Yet it is a painful anatomy of a relationship breakdown and director Paige Rattray says audiences are likely to experience their own conflicting feelings as they witness it. While it may be a show of tough love it will be worth watching for the rare opportunity to see Dusseldorp and Winspear on stage together.

Scenes from a Marriage is on at Playhouse, QPAC, South Brisbane, from 11 November to 3 December. Tickets $55-$86 plus fees, see www.queenslandtheatre.com.au

MOVIES IN THE

MOONLIGHT

Summer nights means pulling up a beanbag or spreading out your blanket to watch a movie outdoors. At American Express Openair Cinema on the Rainforest Green, South Bank Parklands, near the Wheel of Brisbane, recent releases including Blade Runner 2049 (pictured), starring Ryan Gosling, Battle of the Sexes and The Mountain Between Us are on the program until 19 November and there’s a Long Table Dinner event on 18 November (www.openaircinemas.com.au).

Then Moonlight Cinema returns to New Farm Park from 7 December through to March (for the program see www.moonlight.com.au) which also has a Gold Grass VIP reserved viewing area with waiter service.

EXTREME

DANCE Sarah Aiken and Rebecca Jensen (right) have earned a reputation as two of the most daring contemporary artists who push the boundaries of movement while exploring issues of physical perception in a technical age. The two collaborate once again in Dance: a Double Bill at Metro Arts Theatre, Brisbane city, 6-9 December.

Tickets $35 (adult), see www.metroarts.com.au

TERRIERS IN OZ There’s a stellar cast lined up for the Wizard of Oz when it opens on 4 November but the two most likely to steal the show are Cairn Terriers Flick and Trouble – sharing the role of Toto in the family classic – who have a few tricks of their own ready to perform on stage. The production will also raise funds for the RSPCA to support local animal care and adoption facilities in Queensland. At Lyric Theatre, QPAC, South Brisbane from 4 November.

Tickets from $49.90 plus fees, see www.qpac.com.au

34 | BNE November/December 2017

WHEN WHAT

WHERE

NOVEMBER

CAROLS IN THE RESERVOIR O’ Come All Ye Faithfull to hear Christmas carols in the Spring Hill Reservoir, six metres underground in Wickham Park on the edge of the CBD (and just behind the Old Windmill). The Underground Opera Company describes the natural acoustics of the 150-year-old reservoir as “sensational”, enhancing the sound of their performers, and the setting is made more intimate by the arched caverns within the reservoir. Carols in the Reservoir, Wickham Terrace, Spring Hill, 1-17 December. Tickets from $70.30-$80.49 plus fees at www.ticketmaster.com.au

TROPFEST

A STEP TO SUCCESS

Image: Krista Kennell/Shutterstock.com

Success at Tropfest’s short film festival seems to bode well for aspiring film talent – Rebel Wilson (below) won her first award as Best Actress at Tropfest and has since become a leading lady in Hollywood, while director Alethea Jones, who also won at Tropfest has, in the last year, released her first feature film in the US and been announced as the director of the next film adaptation of Barbie, starring Anne Hathaway. Last year half the festival finalists were female which, hopefully, also bodes well for the industry’s future. Tropfest is open to anyone with a camera and there’s still time to enter with submissions due by 11 January 2018. Every year there is a signature item that has to be featured in any entry and this year it is ‘rose’. Keep it short, films must be no longer than seven minutes. See details at www.tropfest.org.au

Until 18

David Hayes ‘Trajectory’, exhibition

Mitchell Fine Art, Fortitude Valley

3

Adele and Amy Songbook

Tivoli, Fortitude Valley

From 4

A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Forum

Brisbane Arts Theatre, Petrie Terrace, Brisbane

4

Brian Cox Live

Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane

4+5

Dog Lovers Show

Brisbane Showgrounds, Bowen Hills

4+5

Wogs at Work

Tivoli, Fortitude Valley

9-11

Losing It, Digi Youth Arts, theatre

Roundhouse Theatre, Kelvin Grove

10

The Baby Animals

The Triffid, Newstead

10

Bootleg Beatles

Tivoli, Fortitude Valley

10

Bianca del Rio, Blame It On Rio

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane

10-12

Supanova

Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane

11

Paul Kelly

Riverstage, City Botanic Gardens

11

Something For Kate

The Triffid, Newstead

11

Take That Live

Brisbane Entertainment Centre, Boondall

14-17

Radical Reels Tour, extreme sports on film

Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm

17

Bullets v Wildcats, basketball

Brisbane Entertainment Centre, Boondall

17

Brisbane Roar v Melbourne City, soccer

Suncorp Stadium, Milton

18

Noel McKenna, Landscape – Mapped, exhibition

Queensland Art Gallery, South Brisbane

From 18

Brisbane Roar v Melbourne City, soccer

Suncorp Stadium, Milton

21

Politics in the Pub

Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm

21

UB40

Tivoli, Fortitude Valley

21

The Rhythms of Ireland

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane

23

Australia v England First Test, The Ashes

The Gabba, Brisbane

23

San Cisco

The Triffid, Newstead

23

Asia Pacific Screen Awards

Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane

23-26

Mama Alto Torch Songs

Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm

29

Shawn Mendes

Brisbane Entertainment Centre, Boondall

From 30

Love/Hate Actually, comedy

Brisbane Powerhouse, New Farm

DECEMBER 1-2

Awakening, Aboriginal Centre for the Performing Arts

Cremorne Theatre, QPAC, South Brisbane

2

Rugby League World Cup Final

Suncorp Stadium, Milton

2

J. Cole

Riverstage, City Botanic Gardens

2

Broadway to La Scala, Lisa McCune, Teddy Tahu Rhodes, David Hobson, Greta Bradman

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane

3

Brisbane Bullets v New Zealand Breakers, basketball

Brisbane Convention and Exhibition Centre, South Brisbane

3

Jack Johnson

Riverstage, City Botanic Gardens

3

Camerata - The White Mouse

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane

From 9

Me, Myselfie and I

GOMA Children’s Art Centre, South Brisbane

16

Wiggly Christmas Big Show

Brisbane Entertainment Centre, Boondall

17

Brisbane Roar v Melbourne Victory, soccer

Suncorp Stadium, Milton

21

Brisbane Roar v Perth Glory, soccer

Suncorp Stadium, Milton

22-23

Spirit of Christmas concert

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane

From 26

Mamma Mia! The Musical

Lyric Theatre, QPAC, South Brisbane

31

Queensland Pops New Year’s Eve Gala

Concert Hall, QPAC, South Brisbane

BNE November/December 2017 | 35

MY BRISBANE

LI CUNXIN ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, QUEENSLAND BALLET

Li Cunxin has had an extraordinary life that has led him from an impoverished childhood in China to the leading stages of the world as a ballet dancer and to the hallowed halls of Melbourne’s financial district as a stockbroker. Five years ago he was lured back to the world of dance to take up the role of artistic director of Queensland Ballet.

During his tenure the company has broken box office records with sellout performances and taken their productions on the road to London.

It’s a life that has been well documented in his autobiography Mao’s Last Dancer, also adapted for the big screen by film-maker Bruce Beresford, and in December a new exhibition opens at Museum of Brisbane which features neverseen-before interviews, performance footage and personal artefacts to reveal an intimate portrait of the artist and the man.

Where do you live and how long have you been there?

I’ve lived in Hamilton, just 6km north of Brisbane’s CBD, for five years, since taking up the role of artistic director of Queensland Ballet.

What do you like most about your neighbourhood?

Its proximity to my work and Brisbane Airport, good transportation options and really great schools.

How has Brisbane changed since you have been here?

There is a better culinary culture emerging, more vibrant performing arts scenes and there is more aspiration and optimism about the future for Brisbane.

What further changes would you like to see happen in the city?

I’d like to see another one to two new performing arts theatres that are iconic and world class to meet the current demands and to accommodate future growth. I’d also like to see better utilisation of the beautiful Brisbane River and better transport systems to meet future demands.

Where are you happiest?

Walking along Brisbane River, especially along the South Bank arts precinct; we love

36 | BNE November/December 2017

experiencing fireworks over the river too. Or enjoying the outstanding beauty of Noosa.

Where do you always take visitors?

GOMA, Philip Bacon Galleries, Queensland Museum and performances at QPAC because they are world class; Lone Pine to visit the cute koalas and kangaroos because they are unique to Australia.

Have you made any great new local discoveries lately?

The Bromley Room at West Village, West End. David Bromley’s wonderful art works are a must see. The Bromley Room is a feast for the soul and is well worth a visit. I hope it stays as a permanent space in West End and Brisbane. He is a real artistic gem! And the mud crabs from Moreton Bay are delicious!

Queensland Ballet is based at West End. Any insider tips for other things not to miss in the area?

West End is such a melting pot of people, cultures and food! There are some great cafés that have sprung up in recent years like Morning After (corner Vulture and Cambridge Streets) and Plenty (284 Montague Road). I’m never disappointed by the food at these places.

For outstanding organic bread and baked

Clockwise from left: Li Cunxin at Queensland Ballet headquarters in West End and in the rehearsal room, above; a dish from Urbane, 181 Mary Street, city; classic tailoring at Mitchell Ogilvie, 168 Edward Street, city; swimming, reading and basking in the sunshine at Noosa is a favourite weekend away (image: Tourism and Events Queensland).

treats you can’t go past West End stalwart Sol Breads (23 Vulture Street). I love that between Hardgrave Road and Boundary Street in West End you can sample just about any world cuisine you like. The variety is amazing. The streetscape of West End is constantly changing as the area gets more developed but it still seems to maintain its unique character.

What are you most proud of since becoming artistic director of Queensland Ballet?

Taking Queensland Ballet to perform in London’s iconic Coliseum Theatre for the first time in our company’s 55-year history; witnessing the phenomenal growth of our company in national and international stature; breaking box office records four years in a row; attracting some of the world’s best creatives such as our new artistic associate Liam Scarlett and building a world class team.

What can audiences look forward to in the Queensland Ballet season in 2018?

We will have five very exciting programs including a world premiere of La Bayadere by our talented ballet master Greg Horsman following his box office blockbusters of Coppelia and Sleeping Beauty. We also have a powerful double bill of Carmen and Firebird by two of the ballet world’s royalties: Carlos Acosta and Liam Scarlett.

Following the incredibly successful season of Bespoke at Brisbane Powerhouse this year, we will have an even more innovative Bespoke season in

2018. We’ll also be taking our successful Swan Lake to five Queensland regional centres and we’ll take Liam Scarlett’s whimsical A Midnight’s Dream to Melbourne. A very exciting year!

Your contract continues until 2020, what do you hope to achieve with Queensland Ballet by then?

A world class repertoire of new and traditional works; a world class company and academy that command international recognition and respect; state-of-the-art homes for our company and academy to work and strive; an organisation that’s known to be the best in what we do on and off stage; and to ensure the company is on a sustainable foundation both artistically and financially.

You will be dancing in The Nutcracker for one night only on 10 December. How are you training for that? Have you missed being on stage?

I have had to bring my discipline back into my daily practise schedule on top of my directorship duties, with a lot of pain and agony in between. I would be lying if I said I didn’t miss performing, but it’s a privilege and great opportunity to dance with our world class dancers in Ben Stevenson’s magical The Nutcracker!

What’s your favourite meal to eat out and where?

Urbane (181 Mary Street, Brisbane), because it has a nice ambience and wonderful food.

What’s your favourite weekend activity?

Going to a friend’s place in Noosa, swim in the ocean, read books, basking in the glorious sun and cooking delicious food. I enjoy a relaxing weekend with my family to recharge.

Where do you like to shop?

Mitchell Ogilvie on Edward Street for my clothing needs. I like their quality, style and friendly service. I like to go to Chinatown in Fortitude Valley for my Chinese grocery shopping. I like to stroll and shop on Hastings Street in Noosa, there are some nice stylish and quality shops there. My wife and I also enjoy going to restaurants on James Street in Fortitude Valley.

What’s your most travelled international destination from Brisbane?

London. It’s one of the most vibrant artistic and cultural cities in the world. I like to immerse myself in the vast choices of international performance offerings and experiences. It’s also a city where many ballet creatives reside and gather where I can do my ballet-related business.

Mao’s Last Dancer the exhibition: a Portrait of Li Cunxin opens at Museum of Brisbane, City Hall, from 1 December. For details see www.museumofbrisbane.com.au The Nutcracker is on 8-16 December at Lyric Theatre, QPAC. Li Cunxin dances for one performance only on 10 December. See the program at www.queenslandballet.com.au BNE November/December 2017 | 37

NEED TO KNOW

Welcoming volunteers are available to answer questions and offer directions to visitors within Brisbane Airport’s Domestic and International Terminals. Look for ambassadors wearing bright blue shirts if you need assistance and our team of Chinesespeaking ambassadors wear red shirts.

BNE PARKING

Convenient, secure and undercover short and long-term parking is available within walking distance to both terminals. For special offers and full product offering including valet, car washing, the new AIRPARK and more see www.bne.com.au

TERMINAL TRANSFERS

Passengers transferring between the terminals can travel via the free Transfer Bus which departs at regular intervals from Level 2 International Terminal and Level 1 Domestic Terminal and travels via Skygate.

dedicated Pick Up Waiting Area with 30 minutes free parking for drivers arriving to collect passengers from the Domestic Terminal. While drivers are allowed to pick up arriving passengers on the Departures Pick Up Road at the front of the terminal, the designated Pick Up Waiting Area helps avoid congestion for all travellers. It is located beside the P2 long-term car park and can be accessed via Dryandra Road (see map right) where drivers can wait for passengers who are not yet ready to be collected. When the passenger is ready for collection the driver can proceed to the pick up location. Parking in the waiting area is free for the first 30 minutes. For easy how-to use instructions see www.bne.com.au

Coach, rail, limousine and corporate car bookings can be made at the Visitor Information Centre, Level 2 International Terminal or Level 1 Domestic Terminal.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT TransLink is the local bus, ferry and train public transport network stretching north to Gympie, south to Coolangatta and west to Helidon. For information and timetables see www.translink.com.au or call 13 12 30.

TAXIS AND AIRTRAIN Taxi ranks are located kerbside Level 2 International Terminal and Level 1 Domestic Terminal. Airtrain provides regular rail links between Brisbane Airport, Brisbane city, Gold Coast and TransLink network as well as terminal transfers. Tickets available in the terminal or at the station.

BNE Maps + More Download the Brisbane Airport app to access important flight information, terminal maps and parking, shopping and dining options at the airport. Add your itinerary and more. Available free for iPhone and Android at Google play and App Store.

38 38 | BNE November/December July/August 2016 2017

PUBLIC WAITING AREA

P2 P1

AIRPORT DRIVE

D om

estic Termin

al

IMPORTANT INFORMATION Visitor Information Centres For information about accommodation, tours, transfer tickets and general enquiries, Visitor Information Centres are on Level 2 International Terminal and Level 1 Domestic Terminal Central Area.

TRANSPORT BOOKINGS

DRYANDRA ROAD

SKYWALK

Airport ambassadors

MORETON DRIVE

BRISBANE AIRPORT has a

Currency exchange Travelex currency exchange and transfer facilities are on Levels 2, 3 and 4 International Terminal and Level 2 Domestic Terminal near Gate 23.

Baggage lockers Find small, medium and large lockers for short and long-term hire at the terminal entrance to the public car park at the International Terminal, at either end of the Domestic Terminal, or next to the bus stop at Skygate.

Tax Refund Scheme (TRS) The TRS enables you to claim a refund, subject to certain conditions, of the Goods and Services Tax (GST) and Wine Equalisation Tax (WET) that you pay on goods bought in Australia. Call 1300 363 263 or see www.customs.gov.au Lost property International: enquiries to Visitor Information Centre, Level 2; call (07) 3406 3190 or email international@sqt.com.au. Domestic: enquiries first to your airline. Qantas call (07) 3867 3264, Virgin Australia (07) 3114 8150, Jetstar (07) 3336 1752 or email Tigerair at ttbne.ops@ aerocare.com.au before contacting the Visitor Information Centre on Level 1; call (07) 3068 6698 or send emails to domestic@sqt.com.au Disability Access Lifts, travelators, ramps, aerobridges, rest points, accessible parking spaces and toilet

facilities are in place for passengers with limited mobility or disabilities. Airlines are

responsible for assisting passengers with disabilities within terminals. Passengers should refer to their airline’s policies prior to booking their ticket.

There is no porter service or any form of direct assistance provided at Brisbane Airport other than any assistance that may be provided by the passenger’s airline.

A dedicated Changing Places bathroom facility for the use of travellers with special needs is located on the central ground floor area of Domestic Terminal (near Qantas baggage carousel 3).

Facilities for assistance dogs are available at International Terminal Level 3 Departures and Domestic Terminal Level 2 Central Area.

WiFi access Brisbane Airport has the fastest uncapped free WiFi in Australia available at International Terminal and Domestic Terminal Central Area.

Local amenities Skygate is Brisbane Airport’s retail and dining precinct, a short free ride on the Transfer Bus from the terminals. There are more than 130 stores, including brand-name factory outlets, a 24/7 supermarket, hairdresser, gym, restaurants, chemist, medical clinic, hotel, beauty services, barber, tavern and golf leisure centre.

Prayer Room A multi-denominational prayer room is located at International Terminal Level 4.

Police For assistance at Brisbane Airport telephone 13 12 37.

Tour Brisbane Airport Have a question about the new runway? Want to know more about Brisbane Airport? Join a free community bus tour. For information and to book see www.bne.com.au/tours

DAY IN THE LIFE

Elizabeth Burke from Moffat Beach, Sunshine Coast, in transit to Emerald for work

Tahli and Milla Flinn departing for Cairns after visiting Brisbane with their parents

BRISBANE AIRPORT is the gateway to 83 CITIES across AUSTRALIA and overseas, opening up a WORLD of adventure for almost 23 MILLION passengers every year

Luke Boon, Blake Falko and Jake Eve arriving home in Brisbane from World Jump Rope competitions in Canada and USA

Ollie Shepherd met Jewel Vincin with flowers on her arrival home in Brisbane from Port Moresby

Sharon Brooks on her way home to the Sunshine Coast after visiting family in Barbados

Photography by Marc Grimwade

Lily and Nicole Stiven arriving from Auckland for a holiday at Alexandra Headland, Sunshine Coast

Roisin Fowley and Aaron Spring arriving from Sligo, Ireland, for a working holiday in Brisbane

Ching Hui Kuo arriving from Taipei, Taiwan on her way to Cairns for a holiday

Jo Timion from Eumundi, Sunshine Coast, on her way to Sydney for work

BRISBANE TO THE WORLD

Seoul

Beijing*

South Korea

China

Tokyo (Narita) Japan

Shanghai (Pudong)

Guangzhou China

China

Shenzhen China

Dubai

United Arab Emirates

Bangkok

Abu Dhabi

Hong Kong

Taipei

Thailand

United Arab Emirates

Taiwan

China

Manila

Philippines

Kuala Lumpur

Malaysia

Singapore

Singapore

Port Moresby Papua New Guinea

Denpasar Indonesia

BRISBANE

BRISBANE

to the world

To 83 destinations direct from Brisbane and beyond

Air China Air Canada

Air Niugini Air New Zealand

40 | BNE November/December 2017

Aircalin Air Vanuatu

Cathay Pacific Alliance Airlines

China Eastern Airlines China Airlines

Emirates China Southern Airlines

Eva Air Etihad

Fly Corporate Fiji Airlines

Hainan Airlines

Vancouver

Canada

Los Angeles USA

Honolulu USA

Darwin

Nauru Nauru

Cairns

Apia Honiara

Solomon Islands

Port Hedland

Espiritu Santo Vanuatu

Port Vila Vanuatu

Nadi

Charleville Fraser Coast (Hervey Bay) Roma Miles BRISBANE Quilpie BRISBANE St George Toowoomba Thargomindah Cunnamulla Norfolk Island Moree Inverell Narrabri Coffs Harbour Tamworth Armidale Dubbo Port Macquarie Birdsville

Fiji

Noumea

New Caledonia

Perth

Auckland

New Zealand

Queenstown New Zealand

Townsville

Whitsunday Coast (Proserpine) Hamilton Island Moranbah Mackay Mt Isa Barcaldine Rockhampton Longreach Gladstone Emerald Blackall Alice Springs Biloela Bundaberg Windorah Cloncurry

Samoa

Adelaide

Wellington New Zealand

Christchurch

Newcastle Orange Sydney Lord Howe Wollongong Island Wagga Wagga Canberra Albury

New Zealand

Melbourne

Dunedin

New Zealand

Launceston Hobart

*Air China begins new services between Beijing and Brisbane from 11 December. Map not to scale. Please note airlines and destinations are current at time of print.

Hawaiian Airlines

Jetstar Jetgo

Malindo Air Korean Air

Philippine Airlines Nauru Airlines

Rex Qantas/ QantasLink

Solomon Airlines Singapore Airlines

Tigerair Thai Airways

Virgin Australia

BNE November/December 2017 | 41

ESCAPE EXTRA

MOST HAUNTED

Ghost tour guide Lily Avalon has some spooky stories to tell during a walk through South Brisbane Cemetery but it’s what visitors see and hear themselves on the tours that is just as entertaining. Some people hear bells ringing, others see a young boy running around the top of the hill even before Avalon can offer an explanation – and we’re not about to give away the stories here. The South Brisbane Cemetery tour is just one of several ghost tours hosted weekly by Brisbane Ghost Tours.

Others include a walking Haunted Brisbane tour of the city, inside Boggo Road Gaol (sometimes guided by an ex-inmate or warden) and Toowong Cemetery (with its history of satanic rituals, grave robbing and suspected serial killers buried in the grounds).

OFFBEAT

TOURS

Brisbane Ghost Tours from $30 (adult). For details see www.brisbaneghosttours.com.au

SEE BRISBANE DIFFERENTLY

Murdering MAYHEM Bloody Brisbane tours expose the city’s deadly history.

The two-hour walking tour covers about three city blocks and, according to tour guide Lily Avalon, there’s a crime scene almost every 10 metres. The tour focuses on some of the city’s most notorious murders, some still unsolved, and traces a trail from Wickham Terrace where two doctors were killed and three bombs detonated, to the site of the ‘Brisbane Arcade Murder’ which remains controversial today as the family of the convicted killer continues to protest his innocence.

Bloody Brisbane walking tour departs four times a week at 7pm from King George Square, city.

Bookings essential. Cost: $35 (adult). For details see www.brisbanecrimetours.com.au

Queensland Performing Arts Centre stages more than 1200 shows each year, from blockbuster musicals to the Royal Ballet, but few in the audience know the stories from behind the scenes about how those productions make it to the stage. Those tales are saved for the backstage tours that depart every week, planned according to what shows are playing at the time. Visitors get to take a peek at dressing rooms, stage sets, walk through the history and architecture of the building, view the 7000-pipe organ in the Concert Hall and, when possible, step out on the stage to see the theatres from a performer’s point of view. Guides have plenty of stories to share on the way. Who was counting, for example, that there were 180 costume changes in every performance of recent hit show Kinky Boots, or that there were 30 pairs of Kinky Boots used in the show, each single one made with 600 Swarovski crystals.

QPAC backstage tours depart every Friday at 10.30am Cost: $15 per adult. For details see www.qpac.com.au

There are weekly tours and occasional reenactments of scenes from Brisbane’s military history at Fort Lytton which was the city’s key defence post until the end of WW II, but its night tours provide a more intimate story of the fortress through the eyes of Great War hero Ray Stanley who was born in Brisbane and served at Fort Lytton before being sent to Gallipoli and then the Western Front. The story is brought to life by actors, sound and light effects between the grassy embankments of the remnant fort.

Image: Steve Browne

Fort Lytton at Night tours booked by demand and start from 6.30pm. Cost: $30 per adult. For details see www.fortlytton.org.au

Brisbane Poetry Map provides intimate stories of city icons you won’t find in any tourist brochure, told in the words of a diverse range of writers and poets – from Luka Lesson’s memoir of a misspent youth hanging out at Rankins on the Mall, recounted in his signature hip-hop rhythm, to Bronwyn Lea’s lyrical view from Scouts Place on top of Kangaroo Point Cliffs and Sam Wagan Watson’s reflection on the clash of cultures at The World Turns sculpture outside GOMA at South Bank. There are five trails to follow: the CBD, Fortitude Valley, South Bank, Kurilpa (West End) and Kangaroo Point with at least five stops on each.

Brisbane Poetry Map trails are free to follow with audio at www.brisbanepoetrymap.com

Home IN A BRIDGE A bedroom window you could fish from, parties in the ballroom, joggers inadvertently running up the stairs; such are the memories of life inside the Walter Taylor Bridge where the families of the original toll collectors of the bridge once lived and which was occupied for more than 70 years before it became a popular stop on a walking tour guided by Brisbane Greeters. Today the hour-long tour that includes a look inside a bridge apartment reveals a lot more about the site’s history, from the discovery of gold to tales of lost convicts and its early life as a toll bridge before it became the busy thoroughfare it is now.

Brisbane Greeter tours of Walter Taylor Bridge are free and depart daily between 9am and 3pm by prior booking only. See www.visitbrisbane.com.au or call 3156 6364

Image: Kgbo/commons.wikimedia.org

POETRY trail

WARTIME MEMORIES

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BACKSTAGE whispers

BRISBANE REGION MAP

We respectfully acknowledge the Traditional Owners of the land on which Brisbane Airport stands and pay respect to their Elders past, present and emerging. *The general locations of larger Indigenous language groups of South East Queensland on this map are indicative only, based on the AIATSIS Map of Indigenous Australia published by Aboriginal Studies Press

Map illustration by Eun-Young Lim. Map is not to scale or exact and an indication only.

BNE November/December 2017 | 43

INTRODUCING

07 3188 7300

07 3188 7373

07 3139 8100

Featuring the Cribb Island Beach Club, Apron Restaurant, executive lounge, rooftop bar, state-of-the-art conference centre and a full suite of guest amenities and services.

NOW OPEN www.bneahg.com.au Located adjacent to Domestic Terminal, Brisbane Airport.