level 3 prep
dissertation proposal Brontey White . N0515045 . FASH20032
contents
2
Preface
7 9 15
Intro
Idea 1
Idea 2
25 27 28 29
Conclusion
33
Appendix
Illustrations
Referencing
Bibliography
Preface Fashion Communication and Promotion has allowed me to develop both my visual and my analytical skills. Exploring areas like Journalism, Marketing, Photography and Art Direction has allowed me to expand my knowledge and skills in a variety of sectors. Reflecting on my feedback from the past one and a half years, it’s clear to me I have strengths and weaknesses both visually and analytically. I plan on further analysis into these strengths and weaknesses to find what area I would place myself in the FCP triangle. When taking into account the FCP triangle, I would say my strengths lie in the execution and creative concept sectors. This is because I have strong interest in work where I can incorporate research into a medium like Photography. This has lead to me wanting to pursue a career in Art Direction or Videography.
strengths
- Strong, professional written skills and being able to reflect on my previous work to a high standard. - Staying organised and on top of workloads - Making strong connections in my work to contextual references and my research - Interesting use of incorporating visuals
weaknesses
- poor presenting skills, getting nervous and struggling without scripts. - Mood boards and layouts - Implementing theory
Fig 1- SWOT analyis
FCP TRIANGLE
Art Direction, Styling, Photography, Film Making, Set Design
Execution
Creative Concept
Big Idea
Context
Fig 2- FCP triangle
Visual Merchandising, Styling, Videography, Art Director
intro
Going into level 3, the subject matters I have decided to explore at this point are both topics I feel explore the future of Fashion. I have chosen to look at things I am very passionate about such as Science, Fashion and Film. My topics are areas that can be better understood by primary and secondary research and are also subjects that I believe, could be turned into a creative execution. Specifically from this report, I hope to gain a better understanding of the topics in mention from a professional point of view considering postive and negative aspects of the topic and critically evaluating my research.
idea 1 sci-fI fashion
‘‘Though fashion tends to be cyclical, new technology creates exceptions. It allows clothes that have never existed before. Some of the most influential trends of the last 100 years of fashion have been inspired by new science’’ (Barbara Brownie, 2013)
My first idea involves the exploration of smart fashion and the role Sci-Fi movies have played in the inspiration for this. Science Fiction movies first became a popular genre after the 1927 movie ‘Metropolis’. After that came the innovators that still influence both fashion and new movies today; War of the Worlds, Barberella, and 2001: A space Odyssey to name a few. These new innovative films at the time started the trend of futuristic fashion and inspired designers such as Andre Courreges and even Mary Quant as she began to incorporate the use of PVC. Although there has been rises and falls in the popularity of Sci-Fi movies, as it stands the two highest grossing movies ever happen to be within the genre- Star Wars: The Force Awakens (2015) and Avatar (2009) (Filmsite.org).They are driving this trend alongside current designers interested in the fusion of Science and Fashion such as Iris Van Herpen and Issey Miyake. ‘The cult of celebrity and its relationship to the world of fashion is becoming an increasingly important factor within the fashion PR remit.’ (Harriet Posner, 2011.) This quote shows that celebrity icons (such as Lady Gaga) wearing designers like Iris Van Herpens garments is also a driving force behind the rise in things like wearable technology, something only seen in Sci-Fi movies for a long time. Smart garments and wearable technology used to only exist in films but now thanks to companies like Samsung, they are becoming reality. In fact IMS research has predicted that wearable technology sales will increase to 171 million units in 2016 and ABI research has predicted 485 million units by 2018. (Fabio Lalli Alessandro Prunesti, 2014.) Ipads, voice reaction systems, flip phones and GPS were all things featured on Star Trek long before they existed showing the possible impact films have on reality. Advancements like 3D printing, fabrics that have anti-bacterial properties and the spray on fabric brand ‘Fabrican’ have been in development for a few years but other consequences include up and coming fashion garments for sale like the Reebok ‘Alien Stomper’ based on the film Alien itself. I picked this particular topic because I felt it was an area of interest that could possibly relate to the sectors of the industry I would like to work in. Therefore taking this into account, in terms of level 3, the future of this trend could be either creating a brand that fuses Sci-Fi and fashion together or producing something that would create awareness of current advancements. Fig 3- Rihanna for Dior, 2016.
Original Sci-fi movies such as Metropolis, Barbarella, the first Star Wars, War of the worlds, The Day The Earth Stood Still and Invasion Of The Body Snatchers. Designers such as Andre Courreges and Mary Quant.
Rise in Sci-fi movies such as The Hunger Games, Star Trek etc... Designers adopting the latest technology like Iris van Herpen.
New companies created specifically to investigate the correlation between science and fashion. The beginning of use of new tech like VR.
Experimentation and advancements with 3D printing. Fashion and Science collaborations like the Sony dress. Developments in alternative fabrics, materials and sustainable practices.
Fig 4- Cartogram
SURVEY %
.10
41
‘Do you think a company that attempts to turn Science-Fiction concepts and inventions into reality is beneficial?’
9%
.9 36
5%
.5 20
7%
1.3
Yes
No
As means of primary research, I produced a basic questionnaire. The questionnaire was intended to get an overall awareness of how much the potential consumer already knows about Science within Fashion, whether they find it interesting and if they would be interested in the fusion if the fusion itself was to benefit society rather than create a please aesthetic. The sample size was 82 people and the results were fairly different to my preconceptions. To the question ‘Do you think a company that attempts to turn Science-Fiction concepts and inventions into reality is beneficial?’ only one respondent answered ‘no.’ in comparison to the 41% who said yes.
I’m not sure
Only if the creations are beneficial
This tells me that not only are other people interested in the idea, by thinking it’s beneficial- they actually want it to happen! Furthermore, when asked ‘Do you think the media should report on advancements in this particular area more frequently?’ a staggering 80% answered ‘yes’ showing that the consumer has identified the need for more awareness and wants to know more. This also shows a gap in the market for someone to create something in the area that is commercially viable and accessible to the consumers and also celebrates the link between Sci-Fi and fashion as 67% of my survey respondents reported that they watch Sci-Fi movies Fig 5- Survey Data
big idea
Philanthropic, Generous, Helpful, well informed, inquisitive, open minded.
After taking into consideration the research from my cartogram and results of the survey I definitely thought investigating the correlation between Science fiction and fashion was a viable idea. I really want to find out more about the correlation between Sci-Fi and fashion and whether it will continue to have an impact on the fashion industry as science advances. As a consequence of the trend, new companies like ‘SciFutures’ are emerging. ‘SciFutures’ is a company that works alongside businesses to aim and make concepts from Sci-Fi movies a reality. In preparation for level 3, I plan on contacting the science team within the company in hopes of gaining an interview for more research into the links between Science Fiction and fashion. In my opinion, this would give me a deeper understanding of a) the role sci-fi has played as an inspiration for their creations and b) how they think future technology and advancements will not only impact the industry but also the ordinary consumer. The problem with my idea, is that I am potentially investigating things within science like wearable technologies and these are already not that accessible to the consumer because of issues like privacy (Fabio Lalli Alessandro Prunesti, 2014.) This means with my idea I will have to address the problem and create a solution by either finding a way to overcome the issues mentioned or by creating an execution that displays awareness around the topic and engages the consumer by means of imforming them on the current trends, advancements and fusions of science and fashion. The consumer itself, I have partially identified (from analysis of my survey and research) as a person aged 20-40 (young enough to keep up with current trends but old enough to have their own personal opinions and the means to buy items for themselves.) with the qualities listed above. The profile though not complete until all of my primary research is done, helps me to gain a wider understanding of who I would be targeting and the values they focus on most.
Ages 20-40 years
Well informed on current advancements
High street oriented
I feel a route giving awareness of the topic to the consumer would be a good idea as my consumer is open minded and inquisitive. They have already said they would like more media reports on Science and Fashion so I have identified a gap in the market I could address. In preparation for Level 3, I would contact several professors who specialise in areas such as wearable technology or support the idea of fashion and science to gain more research to investigate the correlation between Sci-Fi & Fashion. Fig 6- Consumer Chart
idea 2 The K-Beauty Boom
Fig 7- Korean Beauty, NY Mag
The beauty industry is something that has always fascinated me due to its persuasion in convincing women that make-up and beauty products are something that they need- especially todays Asian market. The Asian beauty consumer makes up 40% of total sales (Mark Tungate, 2011) around the world and is estimated to be worth a huge $44 billion and we are also expected to see 80% of global skincare revenue by 2019 to come from Asia. (Kati Chitrakorn, Business of Fashion, 2015.) This shows us that whilst we think of ourselves, in the westernised world to be most concerned with beauty and physical appearance- it’s actually Asia who lead the ranks in the beauty market. This is something to consider due to their extreme beauty routines, as according to Vogue, the process of their beauty regime can involve up to 11 steps in a day. The western world developing Asian beauty ideals could impact every aspect of everyday life as most people I know wouldn’t be able to fit a routine so extensive into their day. However this is too broad for me and I want to look specifically at South Korea because of their even stricter beauty regimes- a country where what you look like can determine the job that you get. The plastic surgery industry in Korea dominates the world and has the highest rate globally. “It is estimated that one in five South Korean women have had some form of cosmetic enhancement, compared to about one in 20 American women. Korean men are also fixated with beauty – around 15% of plastic surgery patients are males.” ( Examiner, 2016.) With this statistic, I can conclude that South Korea has some beauty ideals that are stronger and even more dominating then in the western world of beauty and that cosmetic surgery is seen as a lesser deal than it is in America and the United Kingdom. I want to investigate how this will impact westernised beauty, whether it already is and how modern views on physical appearance will change if we adhere to a culture so focused and fascinated on plastic surgery. South Koreas obsession with physical appearance started as a result of the Korean war, when doctors started giving eyelid surgeries to interested Korean citizens- resulting in the cosmetic procedure known today as ‘blepharoplasty’ (New Yorker, 2015.) The results of surgery were a hit and the procedure caught on fast. Because of the popularity in the procedure, popular media Anime illustrations were created with wide eyes, small features and pale skin- thus bringing caucasian features even further into South Koreas beauty standards.
Driving this trend and force even further was the fact that these ‘Caucasian’ features were beginning to seep into the celebrity world of South Korea. Koreas music industry is known for being ground breaking and has its own name; ‘K-pop’. This K-pop obsession not only dominates music but also the beauty industry with many teenage girls aiming to look like and emulate the style of those involved. The physiques are underweight but also curvy, the face has large eyes and high cheekbones but small upturned noses and the make-up is girly, bright and glowy. This highly contrasts against American and English beauty trends where we are obsessed with ‘contouring’ and ‘baking’ made famous by many of our most famous celebrities. The impact of being influenced by American beauty over the years, has led to a contrast in the views and debates surrounding the Korean beauty industry. On one hand we see publications such as Vogue, Allure, Elle and Marie Claire advertising and reporting on the best korean products and why we should adopt their practices. And on the other hand, we see activist and tattoo artist Grace Neutral pairing up with i-d to bring a mini docu-series showcasing the hidden, more negative aspects of the korean beauty industry. A more direct impact of the rise of K-pop is the previously mentioned rise in cosmetic surgery, with girls as young as 16 being given cosmetic surgery as a gift. As a consequence of all this we are starting to see what is known as the ‘Asian-ification’ of beauty, particularly in the US, with Asia’s largest make-up brand AmorePacific reporting an increase of USA sales by 49% from 2013 to 2014 (Business of Fashion, 2015). In conclusion I can begin to see how the USA is slowly beginning to embrace and incorporate their products and rituals, which leads me to think we will also be seeing young girls in the USA adopting the mindset that plastic surgery is normal and getting more of it and at a younger age. However after informing myself on all aspects of Korean beauty that are not necessarily well reported on, I feel that if younger girls (and boys) knew these factors, they would reconsider before being so influenced by Asian beauty. For example, until watching the ‘Beyond Korea’s billion dollar beauty industry’ mini docu-series by i-d magazine and Grace Neutral I had no idea that tattooing in Korea is illegal as to them it is reminiscent of gang culture and crime. This is interesting to me as many girls my age that I know who I would assume to be the prime consumer have tattoos and would feel strongly on the restrictions of personal style.
Fig 8- Grace Neutral for I-D mag
The Korean War, Dr David Ralph Millard, Blepharoplasty surgery, Anime & Barbie
K-pop, Korean dramas, and brands such as ‘Too Cool For School’
Common products like BB & CCs creams introduced into westernised beauty market, Articles and documentaries on Korean beauty, rise in cosmetic surgery. rise in technology focusing on beauty, normalcy of cosmetic surgery in the US, adopting korean marketing techniques
Fig 9- Cartogram
interviews
Fig 10- Amrezy Instagram
From initial secondary research and the conclusions I was assuming from it, I decided to produce a series of interviews getting a detailed look into people’s opinions on various aspects of the beauty industry, Korean beauty, plastic surgery and personal identity. This helped to understand whether people knew about Korea’s current influence on the beauty industry and what they thought of their beauty ideals. When asking my interviewees questions about their views on having a sense of personal identity and whether they think people can have one if we all look the same, a key factor that was mentioned by three candidates was the already prominent influence of the kardashians in western culture. They identified how most of us already aim for a certain type of beauty (many times portrayed by America’s most famous family) which can be visibly seen through social media. The mention of the Kardashian and Jenner influence tied in with my research into K-Pop and how its strong media presence influences young people in Korea. Whilst analysing my statistics in early research lead to me believe that Korea’s beauty industry is far more extreme than Americas and Europe’s, my interviews have pointed out key theories and points that I had not considered. Although Korea’s beauty industry on the surface may seem more extreme, I am starting to believe this is just because it is so different to our cultures and ideals. For example, although they have a larger percentage of people getting plastic surgery, in the US the ‘contouring’ trend has taken over beauty routines basically creating a more refined, chiselled version of you- the same effects as plastic surgery without the invasiveness and cost (illustrated in the images shown). As well as this, whilst Korea’s view on beauty sits on the idea of being clean cut and well polished, in Europe and America there is a much more expressive element in the use of tattoos and piercings. 3 out of 5 of my interviewees said they had tattoos or were at least considering getting them which is an entirely different view on beauty to the young people of South Korea where the connotations of tattoos are that of gang culture and crime.
Fig 11- Styledbyhrush Instagram
Fig 12- Carlibel Instragram
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Fig 12- Consumer Profile
consumer and big idea Initially in this report I was expecting to find sole information and research backing up my preconceptions about Korean beauty making a strong impact on western beauty. However after some research I think the impact will more be on plastic surgery rather than their whole beauty industry as a whole. The future of this trend as a result of my findings could be to explore the concept of clones in terms of lack of personal identity due to most people aspiring to the same look and physical appearance. If we all aspire to the same thing will anyone be unique and how will the next generation have a sense of personal identity if they can modify themselves at any given time? “They’ll be a cheaper or watered down version and they aren’t always best for you” (Charlie-Rae Legge, 2016) is a point made by one of my interviewees. The quote is important to factor because that is another aspect of the industry to consider. If they are targeting young women and teenagers (people who are often prone to following trends due to peer pressure) how many will struggle financially because of the expenses of following trends and turn to alternatives like black market surgeries? Because of this I think there is a problem that needs addressing and that is the glamorisation of surgery and the encouragement in media to young women. A way of addressing the subject in a non informative, factual method could be to produce a magazine that discourages the trends seen on social media and aims to show beauty and fashion in a creative, unique way. Taking into account the consumer, as the impact of Korean beauty is predominantly on the millennials- the magazine could be based online to fit to the correct platforms the consumers are already most likely using.
Conclusion
In conclusion, both ideas have several routes to explore and develop. The ideas are both timely as there is new advancements being made in both areas all the time- for example in the process of writing this the Dior and Rihanna eyewear collaboration has been released inspired by Star Trek showing the continuous influence film has on fashion (in this case specifically Sci-fi). The ideas can be experimented with in terms of branding as they are potential trends that will influence the future of fashion and beauty. To carry on the research and development over summer, I plan on carrying out more in depth, creative and specific research to obtain a wider range of opinions and facts that can be used. There are several English professors involved in brands in my cartogram that I would like to speak to in relation to idea 1. Moreover for idea 2, I would like the opportunity for a focus group amongst reading and watching more relating to the beauty industry.
list of illustrations List of illustrations Fig 1- Brontey White (15th May 2016) SWOT analysis (OWN IMAGES) Fig 2- Brontey White (15th May 2016) FCP triangle (OWN WORK) Fig 3- Unknown (May 2916) Rihanna for Dior (ONLINE)n available at: http://i-d.vice.com/en_us/ article/rihanna-and-dior-unveil-retrofuturistic-eyewear-collaboration-inspired-by-star-trek?utm_ source=idfbus [date accessed: 26th May 2016] Fig 4: Brontey White (14th May 2016) Cartogram 1 (OWN WORK) Fig 5: Brontey White (22nd May 2016) Research data visualization (OWN WORK) Fig 6: Brontey White (22nd May 2016) Consumer Profile chart (OWN WORK) Fig 7: Seong Joon Cho (Unknown Date) Korean Beauty Images (ONLINE) available at: http://nymag. com/thecut/2015/09/korean-beauty-and-the-government.html [date accessed: 27th May 2016) Fig 8: Unknown (Unknown date) Grace Neutral for I-D magazine (ONLINE) available at: https://i-d. vice.com/en_gb/topic/grace-neutral (date accessed: 26th may 2016) Fig 9: Brontey White (25th May 2016) Cartogram 2 (OWN WORK) Fig 10: Amra Olević (April 2016) Beauty Blog image on ‘kylie cosmetics’ (ONLINE) available at: https:// www.instagram.com/p/BDtjaeJPByC/?taken-by=amrezy Fig 11: Hrush Achemyan (April 2016) Beauty Blog image on ‘kylie cosmetics’ (ONLINE) available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/BDxVzajMJ0a/?taken-by=styledbyhrush Fig 12: Carli Bybel (April 2016) Beauty Blog image on ‘kylie cosmetics’ (ONLINE) available at: https:// www.instagram.com/p/BD1KjbKOzBq/?taken-by=carlibel Fig 13: Brontey White (28th May 2016) Consumer Profile (OWN WORK)
References References Idea 1 Brownie, Barbara (2013) ‘How Sci-fi fashion has changed’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/costume-and-culture/2013/aug/09/how-sci-fi-fashion-changed [date accessed 16th may 2016] Lalli, Fabio and Prunesti, Alessandro (2014) ‘Wearable: Wearable technologies, marketing and customer experience’ (KINDLE EDITION) IQUII. Posner, Harriet (2011) ‘Marketing Fashion’ (BOOK) Laurence King. Unknown (Unknown date) ‘all-time box office 100’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.filmsite.org/boxoffice.html [date accessed: 16th may 2016] Idea 2 Chitrakorn, Kati (July 8th, 2015) ‘The Asian-ification of beauty’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/global-currents/the-asian-ification-of-beauty [Date accessed: 22nd May 2016] Legge, Charlie-Rae (May 26th, 2015) Interview (See Appendix) Peterson, Jhonson (May 4th, 2016) ‘Welcome to Seoul - the cosmetic surgery capital of the world’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.examiner.com/article/welcome-to-seoul-the-cosmetic-surgery-capital-of-the-world [Date accessed: 21st May 2016] Marx, Patricia (March 23rd, 2015) ‘About Face’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/03/23/about-face Tungate, Mark (2011) ‘The face of Asian beauty’ (ONLINE NEWSPAPER) Haymarket Business Publications Ltd. Available at: http://search.proquest.com/docview/993086858/abstract/45F4F6B8B5974358PQ/1?accountid=14693 [Date accessed: 23rd May 2016]
bibliography Idea 1 ‘AMC Filmsite’ (2016) available at: http://www.filmsite.org/boxoffice.html [date accessed: 21st May 2016] ‘Descience’ (2016) available at: http://www.fashiondescience.com/ [date accessed: 21st May 2016] ‘Fabrican’ (2016) available at: http://www.fabricanltd.com/ [date accessed: 12th May 2016] ‘Sci-Futures’ (2016) ‘SciFutures accelerates innovation with Science-Fiction prototyping’ (WEBSITE) available at: http://www.scifutures.com/ [date accessed: 15th May 2016] Anon (May 13th, 2016) ‘Growth Opportunities for the Global Carbon Black in the Textile Fiber Industry 2015-2020 - Research and Markets’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/ growth-opportunities-for-the-global-carbon-black-in-the-textile-fiber-industry-2015-2020---research-and-markets-579356231.html [date accessed: May 16th 2016] Anon (May 2nd, 2016) ‘what you’ll be wearing in 2050: Dragon skin and bones?’ (ONLINE) available at: http:// edition.cnn.com/2016/05/02/fashion/iris-van-herpen-manus-x-machina/index.html [date accessed: May 10th 2016] Brownie, Barbara (2013) ‘How Sci-fi fashion has changed’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.theguardian.com/ fashion/costume-and-culture/2013/aug/09/how-sci-fi-fashion-changed [date accessed 16th may 2016] Gaimster, Julia (2011) ‘Visual Research Methods in Fashion’ (BOOK) Berg Publishers [date accessed 15th May 2016] Godart, Frederic (2012) ‘Unveiling Fashion: Business, Culture, and Identity in the Most Glamorous Industry’ (KINDLE EDITION) Palgrave Macmillan [date accessed: 21st May 2016] Jadran, Farah (26th April, 2016) ‘Fashion meets function with ‘smart’ fabrics at Cornell’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.localsyr.com/news/local-news/fashion-meets-function-with-smart-fabrics-at-cornell [date accessed: 20th May 2016] Kessler, Sarah (September 8th, 2013) ‘8 Star Trek Gadgets That Are No Longer Fiction’ (ONLINE) available at: http://mashable.com/2011/09/08/star-trek-gadgets/#2zl7aRM_ckq3 [date accessed: May 18th 2016] Lalli, Fabio and Prunesti, Alessandro (2014) ‘Wearable: Wearable technologies, marketing and customer experience’ (KINDLE EDITION) IQUII. Morris, Nathalie (November 5th 2014) ‘What we’ll be wearing in the future (if classic sci-fi films got it right)’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/what-we-ll-wearing-future-classicsci-fi-films [date accessed: May 17th 2016] Nassaris, Esther (21st January, 2016) ‘Female leads, diversity and an engagement with complex global issues makes science-fiction so popular among young people’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/ student/istudents/female-leads-diversity-and-an-engagement-with-complex-global-issues-makes-science-fictionso-popular-a6825851.html [date accessed: 20th May 2016]
Perchard, Edward (27th April, 2016) ‘CALLS FOR FASHION INDUSTRY TO ACT ON MICROFIBRES’ (ONLINE) available at: http://resource.co/article/calls-fashion-industry-act-microfibres-11033 [date accessed: 20th May 2016] Posner, Harriet (2011) ‘Marketing Fashion’ (BOOK) Laurence King. Rudgard, Olivia (25th June, 2015) Sci-fi or real life? ‘Six fictional ideas that are happening now’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/technology/11698607/Sci-fi-or-real-life-Six-fictional-ideas-that-arehappening-now.html [date accessed: 20th May 2016] Taube, Aaron (June 12th, 2014) ‘Lowe’s Made A Star Trek-Style ‘Holoroom’ To Test Home Improvement Projects But It’s Not *Quite* The Same’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.businessinsider.com/lowes-holoroom-v-star-trek-holodeck-2014-6?IR=T [date accessed: May 17th 2016] Unknown (Unknown date) ‘all-time box office 100’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.filmsite.org/boxoffice. html [date accessed: 16th may 2016]
Idea 2: American Society of Plastic Surgeons (25th February 2016) “Annual plastic surgery statistics reflect the changing face of plastic surgery.” Available at: https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2016/02/160225181636. htm [date accessed: 23rd May 2016] Anon (20th April, 2016) ‘South Korean culture is key to its shopping success say speakers at Condé Nast luxury conference’ available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/news/?p=1296716&h=true [date accessed: 26th May 2016] Anon (April 2016) ‘Beauty and Personal Care in South Korea’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.euromonitor.com/beauty-and-personal-care-in-south-korea/report [date accessed: 20th May] Anon (April, 2016) ‘Estée Lauder exec: Beauty industry is catching the Korean Wave’ available at: https:// www.luxurydaily.com/beauty-industry-catches-the-korean-wave-estee-lauder-exec/ [date accessed: 23rd May 2016] Bauknecht, Sara (17th May, 2016) ‘Cosmetic surgery trends to watch’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.duluthnewstribune.com/news/health/4028205-cosmetic-surgery-trends-watch [date accessed: 23rd May 2016] Boyd, Sarah (14th May 2015) ‘Korean Skincare Trends Taking Over the US Beauty Industry’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.forbes.com/sites/sboyd/2015/05/14/korean-skincare-trends-taking-over-the-us-beauty-industry/#356f7c0c7ff1 [date accessed: 20th May] Chitrakorn, Kati (July 8th, 2015) ‘The Asian-ification of beauty’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/global-currents/the-asian-ification-of-beauty [Date accessed: 22nd May 2016] Conlon, Scarlett (28th April, 2016) ‘Six Fascinating Korean Beauty Facts’ available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/ beauty/2016/04/28/k-discovery-korean-beauty-trends [date accessed: 26th May 2016] i-d staff (11th May 2016) ‘what happens when you challenge korea’s traditional idea of beauty?’ (ONLINE VIDEO) available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/video/what-happens-when-you-challenge-koreas-traditionalidea-of-beauty [date accessed: 21st May 2016]
i-d staff (17th May 2016) ‘a look at the influence of gangs and k-pop on korean beauty ideals’ (ONLINE VIDEO) available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/video/a-look-at-the-influence-of-gangs-and-k-pop-on-korean-beauty-ideals [date accessed: 21st May 2016] i-d staff (3rd May 2016) ‘exploring korea's illegal tattooing scene’ (ONLINE VIDEO) available at: https://i-d.vice. com/en_gb/video/exploring-koreas-illegal-tattooing-scene [date accessed: 21st May 2016] Ji-Eun, Seo (19th May 2016) ‘Samsung Electronics debuts mirror of the future’ (ONLINE) available at: http://koreajoongangdaily.joins.com/news/article/article.aspx?aid=3018895 [date accessed: 23rd May 2016] Lee, Rachel (1st May 2016) ‘Korean beauty industry inspires ASEAN’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/nation/2016/05/176_203785.html [date accessed: 18th May 2016] Legge, Charlie-Rae (May 26th, 2015) Interview (See Appendix) Marx, Patricia (March 23rd, 2015) ‘About Face’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/03/23/about-face Pak, Eudie (25th March 2015) ‘the Ugly Truth about the ‘100 Years of Korean Beauty’ Video’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/eudie-pak/the-ugly-truth-about-the-100-years-of-korean-beauty-video_b_6936460. html [date accessed: 17th May 2016] Perez, Ashley (31st May 2013) ‘I Wasn’t Beautiful Enough To Live In South Korea’ (ONLINE) available at: https:// www.buzzfeed.com/ashleyperez/i-wasnt-beautiful-enough-to-live-in-south-korea?utm_term=.jrz60R59QE#.sdzkgqYQ7w [date accessed: 17th May 2016] Peterson, Jhonson (May 4th, 2016) ‘Welcome to Seoul - the cosmetic surgery capital of the world’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.examiner.com/article/welcome-to-seoul-the-cosmetic-surgery-capital-of-the-world [Date accessed: 21st May 2016] Posner, Harriet (2011) ‘Marketing Fashion’ (BOOK) Laurence King. Shin, Laura (13th November 2014) ‘Inside the Booming Korean Skincare Market’ (ONLINE) http://www.fastcompany.com/3038283/why-korean-skincare-is-booming [date accessed: 20th May] Tai, Crystal (21st April, 2016) ‘Plastic Surgery as a New Form of Luxury?’ (ONLINE) available at: http://wwd.com/ business-news/financial/plastic-surgery-as-new-form-of-luxury-10416619/ [date accessed: 23rd May 2016] Tungate, Mark (2011) ‘The face of Asian beauty’ (ONLINE NEWSPAPER) Haymarket Business Publications Ltd. Available at: http://search.proquest.com/docview/993086858/abstract/45F4F6B8B5974358PQ/1?accountid=14693 [Date accessed: 23rd May 2016] Tyrimou, Nicole (5th November 2015) ‘riding the Korean Wave: How K-Pop, K-Drama and K-Beauty are Influencing Consumers’ available at: http://blog.euromonitor.com/2015/11/riding-the-korean-wave-how-k-pop-k-dramaand-k-beauty-are-influencing-consumers.html [date accessed: 20th May] Yee, Theresa (13th January 2016) ‘Global beauty- Seoul’ (ONLINE) available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/63843/page/1 [date accessed: 16th May 2016] Yujin,Yuri (22nd October 2015) ‘Inner & outer beauty- Korean Products’ (ONLINE) available at: https://www.wgsn. com/content/board_viewer/#/62563/page/2 [date accessed: 16th May 2016] Rogers, Patrick (Unknown date) ‘11 Korean Beauty Products That’ll Transform Your Skin’ (ONLINE) available at: http://www.allure.com/beauty-products/2015/korean-skin-care-products#slide=1 [date accessed: 21St May]
appendix Research Method
Sample
Purpose
Strengths
Survey through Survey Monkey and shared via Social media. ‘Investigating the correlation between Science and Fashion’
Ages 18-64 82 respondents
To gain an understanding of how much people know about science in fashion, if they find it interesting and whether they think concepts based on Sci-Fi movies should be developed
Being able to obtain responses from a large variety of people of different ages and backgrounds quickly and effectively
One on One interviews discussing their interest in beauty, cosmetic surgery, personal identity and the Korean beauty industry.
Ages 20-21 5 Participants
To gain an understanding from girls in the prime target consumer on their opinions on current beauty, extreme beauty, personal identity and Korean beauty.
Gaining lengthy, detailed answered and being able to ask further questions depending on their answers. (Tailoring to the individual)
Attempted email interview with SciFutures
N/A
To see what the work they produce is influenced by, how they see the technology they use influencing fashion and what they envision for the future.
Gaining insight from professionals in the field. Understanding the topic from an industry point of view. Reliable source of info.
Methodology Table Weaknesses
Outcomes
Effectiveness of Research
Unable to draw as much info or detail from someone as you want and unable to gage initial reactions.
Majority of the candidates were interested in the fusion of Science and Fashion but thought it should be more widely reported on in the media. This shows a need for more awareness surounding current advancements
The survey has proved effective as it has allowed me to see current interest in Sci-Fi and Fashion- As well as the fusion of both. It has also helped me address a gap in the market for more awareness on the subject needed.
Hard to analyse data and findings as it is qualitative not quantitive. Small sample doesn’t give generalised view of audience.
Key areas and points that I had not thought about were picked up on. Conflicting opinions that made for interesting and contradicting research that shows further, more specific research is needed.
Somewhat effective as it gave me detailed answers and points to research I had not considered. However, didn’t give statistics and hard to analyse data consistently based on a sample of 5 students.
As the company is American and the only contact info is email, awaiting response and being a slow process is an issue.
N/A
N/A
Future Research Research Method
Sample
Purpose
Strengths
Interview Via Email
Dr Manel Torres of Fabrican Ltd
To gain insight from an industry professional on what influenced his creation, how he thinks Science will advance in fashion and how important he thinks it is.
Being able to get detailed opinions and info from someone sucessful in the field. Reliable source.
Interview Via Email
Yuly Fuentes Medel Ph.D of FashionDescience
To understand what the driving force behind her realising the need for a team of artists exploring Fashion and Science together was, as well as gaining insight into why she thinks it’s important and how it will progress.
Being able to get detailed opinions and info from someone sucessful in the field. Reliable source.
minimum 5, ages Focus group discovering the impact Sci-fi and Fashion have had 18- 25 on millenials
To obtain a greater understanding of how many Sci-fi movies millenials watch, what they think of them, how they feel about fashion and their overall opinions on my idea.
Being able to get detailed answers from a tribe or group that gives a generalised view on topics from that age group.
Ethnographic research observing the average females beauty routine.
To gain an understanding of current millenials routines, how much time is spent on beauty, the cost and the type of products being used in comparison to korean beauty
Detailed looks by observation, doesn’t really on verbal communication or opinion which can be tricky to get as much info as you want.
Minimum sample of 5, 18-25
Weaknesses
Outcomes
Effectiveness
The possibility of no reply. Hard to compare against other research as it is so specific and there is nothing else like his creation.
Gaining insight into a specific area. Seeing what has influenced current leading professionals and gaining more research that way.
N/A
The possibility of no reply. Hard to compare against other research as it is so specific and there is nothing else like her creation.
Gaining insight into a specific area. Seeing what has influenced current leading professionals and gaining more research that way.
N/A
Qualitative not quantative and hard to analyse as different opinions could contradict each other.
Deeper insight into the new generations ideas, thoughts and opinions on science in fashion and what they think are the importances surrounding it.
N/A
It could be inaccurate, do they really do this on a daily basis or are they just doing it because im asking?
Insight into how likely it is that the target consumer would have time to adopt korean routines, whether they want too and how extreme their current beauty ideals are.
N/A
Interview Transcript What is your name? Charlie Rae Legge What is your age? 20 Describe your interest in the beauty industry? I’m not 100% into it or trends, that’s not very me, its not something is think about spending money on, I’d rather the product was good for me On average how many skincare products do you use a day? I say three, yeah three. Face wash and moisturiser What are your views on plastic surgery? Erm I don’t mind it if it’s for self esteem or medical issues i don’t agree with it for excessive need. What are your views on alternative beauty such as tattoos, body modification etc? Fine, I don’t think someone should be judged and in a job role if they have tattoos or whatever, it doesn’t alter the person you are Did you know that tattooing in Korea is a criminal offence? I didn’t its ridiculous. It represents you and it reflects you, you’re not a bad person etc id feel like i was hiding being myself Do you have any tattoos yourself or are you planning on getting any? I haven’t, I really wanted one when my great granddad died, but im really indecisive and i think it would bother me, i wouldn’t say no though Going back to korea, I’ve been doing some research on their beauty industry and I’ve found something’s out that I think may shock people in our culture. In korea its common practice to be given a job based on your appearance rather than your education or skill set alone, and because of this one in five women have plastic surgery and 15% of plastic surgery patients are men. As you walk through streets of shops, a large percentage are surgeries and hospitals specialising in plastic surgery. Kids are given leaflets on it at school and girls of 16 often get gifts of plastic surgery upon graduation. If they haven’t had it by 18, they definitely have by 25. What are you views on this? I think it’s crazy, I think it’s really quite shocking. Its not made apparent in western society. It’s scary for children cos it’s just conditioning the behaviour Do you think Europe and America could become like this and adopt these beauty ideals knowing that we are already using their products and implementing their marketing techniques? I think the western society already went through this with celeb society in the early 2000s and i wouldn’t be surprised if it came along with this. I think its a shame people cant happy with themselves. I think Europe and America are a lot to blame for the beauty ideals. Do you think you can have any sense of personal identity if people are all following the same styles and aiming for the same appearance? I think whether you want to or not, you fit into a tribe. No ones really individual are they. I suppose the Korean industry are trying to fit to us aren’t they but we’re trying to fit to the media.
Do you think developing a sense of personal identity is important for adolescents? Yeah i do, its important to have a voice.You can be very pushed away, the government get the word really don’t they, its important to develop a voice. What do you think the effects of following Koreas beauty standards would be on young people prone to following trends like me and you? I think it’d be quite dangerous i think this is where the early 2000s and black market surgeries and i think a lot of people could be harmed. Its so accessible now. Does it worry you? Why or why not? Yeah it does, because everything trickles down and they’ll be a cheaper or watered down version and they aren’t always best for you. I don’t know how many countries this surgery thing is the norm for.
Ethics Forms - See level 3 sketchbook
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