Paul Smith context

PAUL SMITH CONTEXT brontey white

PAUL SMITH

CONTEXT

What is the brand all about?

Paul smith is a brand described by the designer himself as ‘quintessentially British.’ His consumers are described as ‘...creative customers; actors, architects and a lot of bike riders too...But basically, someone who is quite confident, who is not looking for what I call ‘attention seeking’ clothes’ (Doody,2016.)

A long running favourite at London fashion week, the brand also has a large appeal in the Asian market with over 250 stores in Japan alone. However, despite all of this 2015 saw an 11.3% decrease in wholesale turnover. So what is causing the problem?

Well aside from economic issues across the globe changing the way we shop- I have identified the way Paul Smith interacts with his consumer as a weakness.

Figure 1- Paul Smith Tokyo show

Figure 2- Paul Smith

Figure 3- Paul Smith models

‘Social media channels are only the beginning’

Although Paul Smith uses social media, it is not used to interact with their customers. Moreover, though every brand has social media channels, if used in the right way it can decrease marketing costs and increase traffic to their website (DeMers, 2014.) Though social media channels are only the beginning to interacting with consumers ‘a strategic and open social media can morph customers into being brand loyal’ (Bell, 2013.) Social media is just one aspect, however, of interacting with consumers and something that most of Paul Smiths competitors will already be doing. One of Paul Smith’s biggest competitors is London Fashion Week giant: Burberry. In a discussion of technology in London Fashion Week, The Guardian explores the theory that ‘Paris may be the undisputed capital of high fashion, but when it comes to high tech fashion, London leads.’(Wood, 2014) this is backed up by countless technological advances made by Paul Smiths competitor Burberry that allows them to interact with consumers in a new and innovative method.

Figure 4- Burberry Campaign

Where are their competitors doing well?

For example, Burberry used seamless integration methods to make its London fashion week instantly shoppable on Apple TV’s around the world earlier this year. They are also renowned for their digital in-store experiences. But past this, they have introduced a new marketing method to their strategy by exploring a technique called ‘Dark Social’- social media advertising ‘that covers email and instant messaging services that can’t be tracked by web analytics.’ (WGSN, 2016.)

This is important to take into consideration as an Experian case study exploring ‘The Importance of Intelligent Interactions’ provides insight evidencing that consumers are now more than ever relating interactions with their own devices to brands and advertising. The quote ‘Smartphone penetration in January 2013 reached 60% in the UK’ shows how ‘Dark Social’ can be applied to consumers in their everyday routines. Although Paul Smith himself has identified his consumer as ‘...creative customers; actors, architects and a lot of bike riders too...

But basically, someone who is quite confident, who is not looking for what I call ‘attention seeking’ clothes’ (Doody,2016.)

Who is the

brands consumer?

Figure 5- Paul Smith 2014

‘The always on consumer is no longer simply the domain of the young and tech-savvy. Always on is a nationwide phenomenon that affects everyone.’

I think Paul Smith’s current consumer who he aims at interacting with should be his male customers who fit in this category, specifically ages 35-50. This is because of his 5.6% sales rise in 2016 after a good year in men’s suits- the brand shows potential in developing their tailoring business even further and this could be used to their advantage when interacting with their consumer. According to ‘The Importance of Intelligent Interactions’ ‘the always on consumer is no longer simply the domain of the young and tech-savvy. Always on is a nationwide phenomenon that affects everyone.’ (Experian, 2013.) This shows how Paul Smith still should be using technology to interact with his consumer even though they aren’t in what is deemed as the ‘technology generation.’

Looking further into the Psychology of men and technology, I found an article that explores the theory of the way males and females identify with technology. A key quote ‘...The way in which they use it is very different, video games for example, are played almost exclusively by boys and young men.’ Shows how Paul Smith has identified a massive opportunity upon the release of his ‘DinoJumper’ game released on the app store. The game not only links his Dinosaur motif and uses a storytelling method a lot of designers are using via Instagram and Snapchat currently, but also makes way for a larger assortment of product placement. This game app could also be used to link via advertising to another Paul Smith app (solely for online shopping). Men look at shopping differently to Women and this should be considered when appealing to them

How can they solve the problem?

Figure 6- Paul Smith app

Evolution takes shopping back to how Women would forage, giving the impression this is why women like to shop slowly and methodically, whereas men (linking back to hunting) want to get the item and go. (Byker and Kruger, 2009.) This key theory identifies how men shop and what they want from a brand- the opportunity to get something quickly and effectively. Paul Smith can apply this knowledge when considering interaction by creating something accessible from a range of devices that is quick to use and fun.

Figure 7- Paul Smith Itunes

‘more content, more personalisation and better approaches to messaging across a broader variety and diverse network of channels.’

‘...Devices enable users to become part of that ecosystem that surrounds technology and promote a direct dialogue between people, products and services.’ Is a quote from ‘Wearable: wearable technologies, marketing and customer experience’ (Lalli and Prunesti, 2014) that provides insight into why customers expect to be able to reach and interact with a brand through mobile and/or portable devices. Because it makes consumers feel like they are interacting with the brand directly, they expect thoughtful, meaningful and co-ordinated responses.

When it comes to Paul Smiths interaction, this means more content, more personalisation and better approaches to messaging across a broader variety and diverse network of channels. (Experian, 2013.) To find out more about the way men shop and what the best method of technology to interact with them is, I would next conduct primary research. When considering what I should find out, I think it would be best engage system 2 thinking to get the participants thinking about the way they feel when using technology and the way they feel when shopping.The aim of this is to abandon the logic system 1 thinking would cause as logically participants may give negative views on advertising and the way brands use it. According to Graves’ theory ‘Developing cost effective yet meaningful live tests should be a much higher priority than reaching for the researchers clip-board or convening a focus group...’ (Graves, 2010).

Taking this into consideration, I have come up with primary research methods that I feel would be effective and insightful.

Figure 8- Paul Smith campaign 2015

In-depth interview

So far I only know the way in which men like to shop differently to women.

I also want to find out why they think differently about shopping and how this will affect the methods they choose to do it in. It will also be helpful to understand the ways in which men connect to technology in comparison to women.

To gain a further understanding of gender differences and how this would affect marketing to predominantly men, I would do an in-depth interview with psychology professor Bernice Wright here at Nottingham Trent who specialises in gender studies. Questions would be based around finding out as much as possible about the ways men make decisions and how Paul Smith could use this to their advantage.

This particular form of research has its advantages because it gives opinions from an industry professional with experience in this particular area. It could be difficult to analyse the answers however as they may be based on bias and opinion.

Deep dive

Secondary research highlights how people use their devices now more than ever and how they are particularly interested in using them for online purchases. It also highlights that this consumer who is always on their phone is not as young as before. I want to find more about older men in the target consumer age group I identified earlier and the way they are using their devices and what they are going on.

To do so I would carry out ‘Day in the life of’ deep dives with five different participants between the ages of 35 and 50 analysing quantitative data. I would keep track of the number of times they go on their phones in a day, what apps they go on in that day and what their most overall used app is. I think this would help to understand the best channels to market on and if this older man is even going online and on certain apps as much as secondary research has identified they are. The problem with this deep dive experiment would be considering that this sample would all have very different personalities and the results may depend on the individual. If possible it would be better to get a larger sample size as a way of acquiring a median or average.

Figure 9- Paul Smith 2015

Research method Interview

Deep Dive

Sample

Purpose

Strengths

Weaknesses

The purpose of The strengths 10 men ages 35 the interviews of this kind of would be to research would be to 50 understand the ability to gain the differences several opinions between males and use the shopping and insights to gain an females. This average basis or a would help to median. understand them better and gain info such as how much time they spend shopping.

Sometimes participants don’t provide as much detail as you would like and which means you aren’t able to gain extensive insight from the interviews.

The purpose 5 men ages 35 of doing deep to 50 dive days in the life following five men would be to gain an understanding of how men use technology on a day to day basis.

For example I would be able to evaluate how many times in a day they go on their phone, what apps they use most commonly and what devices they use.

The overall weakness regarding this primary research method would be the consideration of how long it would take to obtain a viable sample that would allow insights into the consumer.

Gaining personal looks in to the participants and men and their use of technology overall. Also the ability to gain a large amount of info over a long period of time.

References Anon (2016a) Dark Social: The opportunity for marketers. Available at: https://www. wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/64624/page/1 (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Bell, T. (2016) Establishing brand loyalty through social media: TTU outpost: COMC: TTU. Available at: http://www.depts.ttu.edu/comc/research/outpost/blog/brand-loyalty. php (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

DeMers,J (2014) The Top 10 Benefits Of Social Media Marketing. Available at:http:// www.forbes.com/sites/jaysondemers/2014/08/11/the-top-10-benefits-of-social-mediamarketing/#7e7024832a4d (Accessed: 24 October 2016) Doody,M. (2016) Why Paul Smith is a ’uniquely British’ brand | lifestyle | DW.COM | 16.09.2016. Available at: http://www.dw.com/en/why-paul-smith-is-a-uniquely-britishbrand/a-19556281 (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Graves, P. (2010) Consumerology: The myth of market research, the truth about consumers and the psychology of shopping. Boston: Nicholas Brealey Publishing.

Kruger, D. and Byker, D. (2009) ‘Evolved foraging psychology underlies sex differences in shoping experiences and behaviors.’, Journal of Social, Evolutionary, and Cultural Psychology, 3.4, pp. 328–342.

Rodriguez, A. (2013) The importance of intelligent interactions meeting the demands of the ‘always on’ consumer. Available at: http://www.experian.co.uk/assets/marketingservices/white-papers/wp-intelligent-interactions.pdf (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Wood, A. (2015) London fashion week: Why technology is in fashion. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/media-network/media-network-blog/2014/sep/12/ london-fashion-week-technology-burberry (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Predictable Bibliography Anon (2014a) Holiday strategy: Store app innovation. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com. ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/55353/page/1 (Accessed: 26 October 2016).

Anon (2014b) Messaging apps: How brands use them. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com. ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/54437/page/1 (Accessed: 26 October 2016).

Anon (2016a) Dark Social: The opportunity for marketers. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/ content/board_viewer/#/64624/page/1 (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Anon (2016b) Shoppable TV Advertising. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/65115/page/1 (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Bell, T. (2016) Establishing brand loyalty through social media: TTU outpost: COMC: TTU. Available at: http://www.depts.ttu.edu/comc/research/outpost/blog/brand-loyalty.php (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Buchanan,V. (2016) Burberry break-in. Available at: https://www.lsnglobal.com/briefing/ article/19029/burberry-break-in (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Chitrakorn, K. (2015) This week on BoF careers: Paul Smith, Sweden unlimited. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/careers/this-week-on-bof-careers-paul-smithsweden-unlimited (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Doody,M. (2016) Why Paul Smith is a ’uniquely British’ brand | lifestyle | DW.COM | 16.09.2016.

Available at: http://www.dw.com/en/why-paul-smith-is-a-uniquely-british-brand/a-19556281 (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Firth, P. and Rees, T. (2011) Tweetwalkers: Burberry in step with technology. Available at: https:// www.lsnglobal.com/briefing/article/4497/tweetwalkers-burberry-in-step-with-technology (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Food fraud, London Fashion Week, Subsidised flights (22nd feb 2016) Available at: http://www. bbc.co.uk/programmes/b07142lg (Accessed: 24 October 2016) Graves, P. (2010) Consumerology: The myth of market research, the truth about consumers and the psychology of shopping. Boston: Nicholas Brealey Publishing.

Halliday, S. (2015) Paul Smith on comeback trail after tough year, product is streamlined, online grows. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/news/paul-smith-on-comeback-trail-after-tough-yearproduct-is-streamlined-online-grows/ (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Inc, 24 7 and slideshare (2012) Why should companies give importance to customer interaction services? Available at: http://www.slideshare.net/247Inc/why-should-companiesgive-importance-to-customer-interaction-services (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Johnson, R.M. (2013) Paul Smith says you need a head that can change hats every hour.

Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/first-person/paul-smith-says-you-needa-head-that-can-change-hats-every-hour (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Lea-Greenwood, G. (2008) Fashion marketing communications. United Kingdom: Blackwell Publishing.

McBride, K. (2016) Four brands storming the world of fashion and technology. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/media-network/media-network-blog/2014/sep/05/burberryralph-lauren-fashion-technology-brands (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Posner, H. (2011) Marketing fashion. London: Laurence King Pub. Prunesti, A. and Lalli, F. (2014) Wearable: Wearable technologies, marketing and customer experiences. E–book edition edn. italy: Creative commons attribution.

Rodriguez, A. (2013) The importance of intelligent interactions meeting the demands of the ‘always on’ consumer. Available at: http://www.experian.co.uk/assets/marketing-services/whitepapers/wp-intelligent-interactions.pdf (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Siganporia, S. (2016) Paul Smith’s latest collaboration is all about Diwali. Available at: http:// www.vogue.in/content/paul-smiths-latest-collaboration-is-all-about-diwali/#s-cust0 (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Tran, K.T.L. (2016) Paul Smith and John Tierney’s pretty in pink fashion collaboration. Available at: http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/paul-smith-john-tierney-melrose-pink-fashioncollaboration-10657400/ (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Wood, A. (2015) London fashion week: Why technology is in fashion. Available at: https://www. theguardian.com/media-network/media-network-blog/2014/sep/12/london-fashion-weektechnology-burberry (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Unpredictable Bibliography Adas, M. and M, A. (1992) Machines as the measure of men science, technology, and ideologies of western dominance. Baltimore, MD, United States: Cornell University Press.

Brenston, M. (no date) Worlds apart: Women, men and technology. Available at: http://www. medialit.org/reading-room/worlds-apart-women-men-and-technology (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Exit Through The Gift Shop (2010) Banksy, Revolver Entertainment.

Fidelman, M. (2012) Here’s the real reason there are not more women in technology. Available at: http://www.forbes.com/sites/markfidelman/2012/06/05/heres-the-real-reason-there-are-not-morewomen-in-technology/#1b472a9741e9 (Accessed: 24 October 2016).

Kruger, D. and Byker, D. (2009) ‘Evolved foraging psychology underlies sex differences in shoping experiences and behaviors.’, Journal of Social, Evolutionary, and Cultural Psychology, 3.4, pp. 328– 342.

The Apprentice (2016) BBC iPlayer, .

Illustrations Figure 1 Unknown (unknown date) Paul Smith Tokyo show (ONLINE) available at: http://www. japantimes.co.jp/life/2011/10/30/general/ps-i-love-japan-and-japan-loves-paul-smith-it-seems/#.

WDtxmLKLTIV Figure 2 Paul Smith Facebook (9th February 2016) Paul Smith (ONLINE) available at: https:// fashionunited.uk/news/business/paul-smith-restructures-business-in-response-to-a-fashion-worldgone-mad/2016020919340 Figure 3 Paul Smith Facebook (9th February 2016) Paul Smith models (ONLINE) available at: https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/paul-smith-restructures-business-in-response-to-a-fashionworld-gone-mad/2016020919340 Figure 4 Unknown (2015) Burberry campaign available at:http://marketingtochina.com/top-10advertising-campaigns-wechat/ Figure 5 Unknown (2014) Paul Smith AW campaign available at: http://theessentialist.blogspot. co.uk/2014/09/paul-smith-ad-campaign-fallwinter.html Figure 6 Patrick Fry (2015) Paul Smith app available at: http://www.patrickfry.co.uk/paul-smith-ipadapp/ Figure 7 Paul Smith Online (2015) Paul Smith ITunes available at:http://www.paulsmith.co.uk/eu-en/ shop/stories/aw16/apple-music Figure 8 Unknown (2015) Paul Smith ad available at: http://www.fashionbeans.com/2015/paul-smithss-2015-advertising-campaign/ Figure 9 Adriano B. (2015) Paul Smith campaign available at: http://www.paulsmith.co.uk/uk-en/shop/ stories/ss16/hello-my-name-is-paul-smith-glasgow-lighthouse

PAUL SMITH CONTEXT brontey white