TREND BOOK AW 16
CONTENTS
01
FIG 1, HOOD BY AIR 2016
MENSWEAR RAW IMPURE VENTURE & VOYAGE THE REVOLUTIONARY
PRINT SPREAD YOUR MESSAGE THE ILLUSTRATED INNOVATOR DIGITALLY DAZED
FIG 3, J&M DAVIDSON STORE
03
02
FIG 2, ZARA 2016
VM/ IN-STORE SENSIBLE SILENCE THE ARTS OF AFRICA LINE IT UP
FIG 4, MENSWEAR MOOD BOARD
01
MENSWEAR RAW IMPURE VENTURE & VOYAGE THE REVOLUTIONARY
MENSWEAR RAW IMPURE
RAW IMPURE In a time where society is facing rife issues such as global warming and pollution there has become issues within the fashion industry (and other industries) such as increased plastic wastage. Although a negative issue, it has allowed us to create postive changes such as an increase in the use of raw materials in fashion. Because of the need to be more conscious, influential designers and icons have created looks using these raw materials that reflect urban styles.
FIG 7, YEEXY 2015
FIG 6, YEEZY 2015
FIG 5, OWN IMAGE
FIG 8, RAW IMPURE MOOD BOARD
Frayed Navy
Burnt Teal
Dust
Smoked Out
Diluted Black
Raw impure’s visual aesthetic resembles and takes inspiration from artists such as Patrick Heron and John Chamberlain who create 3D pieces using materials. Inspired by found texture, the trend aims to be practical yet masculine and edgy. The colours and fabrics used often show washed and faded textures which closely relate to the message of recycling and reusing.
MENSWEAR VENTURE & VOYAGE
VENTURE & VOYAGE FIG 10, ZARA 2016
The rise in conscious consumers and sustainable advances has lead to a further appreciation of all things green within the fashion and art industries. Rather than the bright, tropical prints seen in previous seasons, the nature inspired themes are slightly more feminine and floral which also ties in with other androgynous menswear trends seen in the fashion industry. The theme also represents our society’s sudden obsession with travel and blogging this desire through social media sites such as Instagram.
FIG 9, OWN IMAGE
The trend itself has come at a time of massive scientific advancements in terms of how we grow plants and how we create a sustainable planet. This year we have seen the introduction of items like a ‘grow your own’ hydroponic indoor garden sold within accessible chain stores. This shows how the advancements have trickled down into the fashion industry creating talking points and common themes.
FIG 11, VENTURE & VOYAGE MOOD BOARD
Oak
Forest Green
Pastel Leaf
Cocoa
Midnight Blue
In previous menswear seasons the tropical prints have been bold and highly contrasted in colour. This season they become much more earthy and neutral to counter-act the feminine print.
MENSWEAR THE REVOLUTIONARY
THE REVOLUTIONARY The Revolutionary embodies all things Sci-Fi and futuristic with metallic textures, smart fabrics and boundary pushing shapes and silhouttes that don’t confine to just one gender. The trend comes at the perfect time after two years of blockbuster science fiction movies such as Interstellar, Gravity, The Martian and Star Wars: The Force Awakens which is reflected in the oversized robes and asymmetric hems. Alternatively, elsewhere in technology advancements in 3D printing are impacting the medical world and also helping to make changes to fast fashion- reflected in this trend that explores possible Utopia.
FIG 13, Y-3 2016
FIG 12, WGSN
Charcoal
Titanium
Danger
Neon Aqua
Key Designers in the movement bringing futuristic trends to the forefront are Hood By Air and Nasir Mazhar. We also saw Versace utilise UV features for their fall 2016 collection. Elsewhere in fashion, we see designers like Iris Van Herpen experimenting with the use of Silicone, laser cutting techniques, ultrasonic welding and magnetized fibers.
FIG 14, THE REVOLUTIONARY MOOD BOARD
FIG 15, PRINT MOOD BOARD
02
PRINT SPREAD YOUR MESSAGE THE ILLUSTRATED INNOVATOR DIGITALLY DAZED
PRINT SPREAD YOUR MESSAGE
SPREAD YOUR MESSAGE The slogan trend resonates freely amongst young people all over the globe. In a time of troubles where there is not much positivity in the political and financial world, the opportunity to express our own individual thoughts and opinions in a humorous manner through fashion is sought out. Inspired by social media sites such as Tumblr and the rise of the hashtag, fashion has become not only playful and sarcastic but also slightly nostalgic.
FIG 18, ASHISH 2014
FIG 17, TYLER JOE STREET STYLE
FIG 16, OWN IMAGE
The slogan trend first began with the ideals of using branding as identityseen famously in Moschino’s SS15 collection. Since then the slogan has moved into humorous catchphrases or opinionated statements. In 2014, Khloe Kardashian caused a stir when she was seen wearing a fake fur coat with the message ‘fxck yo fur’ sprayed on. The message inspired people all over the world due to it becoming a viral sensation across social media.
FIG 19, SPREAD YOUR MESSAGE MOOD BOARD
Onyx
Barbie
Scarlett Fever
Goldielocks
PRINT THE ILLUSTRATED INNOVATOR
FIG 20, LONDON STREET STYLE 2016
FIG 222, OWN IMAGE
In a world obsessed with the digital era where every move and moment is on social media, it’s not hard for us to reference iconic moments through fashion. For example, the Hotline Bling music video was recreated in fashion by several brands (such as o-mighty clothing). Although referencing media in fashion has been around for a few seasons, previously they were more refined (Rodarte Fall 2014 Star Wars collection for example) whereas now they take a youthful and energetic approach.
FIG 21, LIBERTINE 2015
THE ILLUSTRATED INNOVATOR
Cosmo
Kiss Me Kate
Oceana
Blue Lagoon
Evening Sky
Because of the inspiration from Pop Art and Comic book styles in the trend, the colours are bright but also co ordinate separating them from the bright but clashing tones of digital prints.
FIG 23, THE ILLUSTRATED INNOVATOR MOOD BOARD
PRINT DIGITALLY DAZED
DIGITALLY DAZED The advancements with 3D printing both within the fashion industry and other industries has inspired artists all over the globe to create work from digital graphics and 3D printing methods. It closely relates to the type of consumer who is enthused about futuristic advancements in science and fashion. The trend is also inspired by the need for these scientific advancements in terms of rectifying global issues.
FIG 24, WGSN
FIG 25, MISSONI 2016
FIG 26, DIGITALLY DAZED MOOD BOARD
Jet Black
Acid Yellow
Lava Fury
Powered Teal
Electra
The colours in the trend are a huge part as the clashing tones are what creates the choppy ‘confusing’ feel to the prints. Mostly focusing on primary colours, the palette is brightened to almost neon shades that pack a punch, solidifying the bold, over the top trend.
FIG 27, VM/ IN-STORE MOOD BOARD
03
VM/ IN-STORE SENSIBLE SILENCE THE ARTS OF AFRICA LINE IT UP
VM/IN-STORE SENSIBLE SILENCE
SENSIBLE SILENCE
Sensible Silence comes from the need for sustainable living. Changing Visual Merchandising often to new and modern designs in high street stores just isn’t feasible or ethical in todays current climate.
EUQITUOB ENUSTIK NOSIAM ,03 GIF
FIG 29, J&M DAVIDSON STORE
FIG 28, OWN IMAGE
To rectify the problem soft silhouettes in neutral colours pair to give a relaxed, simple feel that fits any trend or time frame whilst still managing to look like a classic style. Copper and chrome accents replace wooden textures and exposed fixtures and lighting are replaced by purposely worn paint and textures.
The soft colour palette in the trend bears striking resemblence to Wes Anderson film design and the architecture and materials are inspired by designers like Thom Fougere and Gloria Coelho
FIG 31, SENSIBLE SILENCE MOOD BOARD
Beech
Cool Slate
Concrete Rose
Translucent Blue
New Copper
VM/IN-STORE THE ARTS OF AFRICA
THE ARTS OF AFRICA African prints and styles often have connotations of earthliness and nature due to their warm colour palette and woody textures, so it’s no suprise in a time when many trends are inspired by conscientiousness and sustainability that these tones and patterns are being applied to Visual Merchandising. It also comes as an advancement of wooden, industrial styles we have been seeing in stores such as Urban Outfitters and Superdry for the past couple of years.
FIG 32 & FIG 33, OWN IMAGES
Cool Clay
Fresh Sand
Hummingbird
Berry
Bonfire
The trend is already being seen in European cities such as Berlin and Lleida. The independent boutiqes and new stores are adopting this style to give a warm welcoming feel whilst also giving the message they fit into new organic, conscientious lifestyles.
FIG 34, THE ARTS OF AFRICA MOOD BOARD
VM/IN-STORE LINE IT UP
LINE IT UP
As more and more futuristic trends seep into the Art and Fashion worlds, architecture and interior design are also begininning to reflect this through clean lines, strong lighting and symmetrical shaping. The minimal design and spaces also reacts to a changing climate and a damaging financial crisis by using the bare minimum to create new futuristic views.
FIG 36, SAINT LAURENT STORE FIG 35, OWN IMAGE
The biggest inspiration behind the trend is the mindset it comes from- the reaction to the previously mentioned issues leading consumers to rethink how many personal possessions we really need.
FIG 37, LINE IT UP MOOD BOARD
Nude
Blue Steel
Silver
Carbon Black
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Fig 1: Indigital Images (29th June 2015) Hood By Air SS 2016 (photograph) available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2016/mens/hood-byair/full-length-photos/gallery/1432298 [date accessed: 16th april 2016] Fig 2: Photographer unknown (2016) ‘I AM DENIM’ jeans (photograph) available at: http://www.zara.com/uk/en/trf/jeans/%22i-am-denim%22-collection-momfit-jeans-c379001p3233129.html [date accessed: 16th april 2016] Fig 3: Charles Hosea (3rd February 2016) J&M store interior (Photograph) available at: http://www.dezeen.com/2016/02/03/universal-design-studio-jmdavidson-store-london-barber-osgerby/ [date accessed: 16th april 2016] Fig 4: Mood board 1 (23rd April 2016)( Left to Right) - Image 1: GoRunway (27th June 2013) Dries Van Noten SS 2014 (Photograph) available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2014/ mens/dries-van-noten/full-length-photos/gallery/1000033 - Image 2: Kim Weston Arnold (date unknown) KTZ SS 2016 (photograph) available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-menswear/ ktz/slideshow/collection#12 - Image 3: Kim Weston Arnold (date unknow) KTZ SS 2016 (photograph) available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-menswear/ ktz/slideshow/collection#33 - Image 4: Own image (April 2016) Zara menswear (Photograph) - Image 5: Unknown Photographer (28th October 2015) MIT media lab Bio-skin fabric (photograph) available at: http://www.wired.co.uk/news/ archive/2015-10/28/mit-media-lab-biologic-living-sportswear/viewgallery/620144 Fig 5: Own image (May 2016) Textured Card (photograph) Fig 6: Alessandro Garofalo (date unknown) Yeezy FW 2015 (Photograph) available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/kanyewest-adidas-originals/slideshow/collection#27 [date accessed: 16th april 2016] Fig 7: Alessandro Garofalo (date unknown) Yeezy FW 2015 (Photograph) available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/kanyewest-adidas-originals/slideshow/collection#9 [date accessed: 16th april 2016] Fig 8: Own Work (19th April 2016) ‘Raw Impure’ (Mood board) Fig 9: Own Image (May 2016) ‘Venture & Voyage’ (Fabric Swatch)
Fig 10: Photographer Unknown (2016) ‘flower t-shirt’ (photograph) available at: http://www.zara.com/uk/en/man/t-shirts/view-all/ flowers-t-shirt-c719523p3431007.html [date accessed: 19th April 2016] Fig 11: Own Work (19th April 2016) ‘Venture & Voyage’ (Mood board) Fig 12: Photographer Unknown (date unknown) Forest Rohner at the international trade fair for technical textiles and non wovens (photograph) available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/post/118018140499/forster-rohner-2015-updates-of-conductive [date accessed 11th May 2016] Fig 13: Monica Feudi (date unknown) Y-3 FW 2016 (photograph) available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016menswear/y-3/slideshow/collection#11 [date accessed 11th May 2016] Fig 14: Own work (19th april 2016) ‘The Revolutionary’ (Mood board) Fig 15: Mood board 2 (22nd April 2016) (left to right) - Image 1: Own Image (3rd April 2016) Slogan Jumper, Zara store Derby (photograph) - Image 2: Own Image (18th April 2016) Printer Bomber Jacket, Zara store Nottingham (photograph) - Image 3:Valentino (date unknown) Valentino Resort 2015 (photograph) available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/ resort-2015/valentino/slideshow/collection#62 - Image 4: Photographer Unknown (date unknown) Slogan t-shirt (photograph) available at: http://www.zara.com/uk/en/man/tshirts/view-all/short-sleeve-t-shirt-c719523p3184182.html Fig 16: Own image (18th april 2016) Embroidered Jumper, Zara store Nottingham (Photograph) Fig 17: Tyler Joe Street Photography (January 28th 2016) Slogan t-shirt street style (photograph) available at: http://www.elle.com/ fashion/street-style/news/g27612/paris-couture-spring-2016-street-style/?slide=32 [date accessed 22nd april 2016] Fig 18: Photographer Unknown (date unknown) Ashish 2014 (photograph) available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/ pin/541909767643337902/ [date accessed 22nd april 2016] Fig 19: Own Work (19th April 2016) ‘Spread your message’ (Mood Board)
Fig 20: Photographer Unknown (date unknown) London fashion week 2016 street style (photograph) available at: http://wwd.com/ fashion-news/they-are-wearing/gallery/they-are-wearing-london-fashion-week-spring-10233260/#!8/undefined/?src=pinterest [date accessed 22nd april 2016] Fig 21:Photographer unknown (26th March 2015) Libertine coat FW 2015 (photograph) available at: http://www.patternprintsjournal. com/2015/03/prints-patterns-textures-and-textile_26.html [date accessed 23rd april 2016] Fig 22: Own image (3rd April 2016) Minnie Mouse Sweatshirt, Topshop store Derby (photograph) Fig 23:Own Work (19th April 2016) ‘The Illustrated Innovator’ (Mood Board) Fig 24: Photographer Unknown (date unknown) Geometric print (Image) available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/ board_viewer/&ticket=ST-11942-ztSEFPmQ6zt1RKVqMkNk-cas#/56055/page/7 [date accessed 22nd april 2016] Fig 25: Missoni (date unknown) Missoni FW 2016 (photograph) available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2016/missoni/ slideshow/collection#2 [date accessed 12th april 2016] Fig 26: Own work (19TH april 2016) ‘Digitally Dazed’ (Mood board) Fig 27: Mood board 3 (23rd april 2016) (left to right) - Image 1: Own image ( 3rd April 2016) Ikea wall hanging (photograph) - Image 2: Own Image (27th March 2016) Visual Merchandising, Zara store, Lleida Spain (photograph) - Image 3: Photographer Unknown (date unknown) Visual Merchandising (photograph) available at: http://blog.vanstee.be/ post/928218266 - Image 4: Austin and Anna Smith (unknown date) Interior design and styling (photograph) available at: http://annabode.com/ Fig 28: Own Image (7th May 2016) Fabric Swatch (photograph) Fig 29: Charles Hosea (3rd February 2016) J&M store interior (Photograph) available at: http://www.dezeen.com/2016/02/03/universaldesign-studio-jm-davidson-store-london-barber-osgerby/ [date accessed: 16th april 2016]
Fig 30: Edie Cohen (2015) ‘Masters of the House: Gildas Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki’s Maison Kitsuné Boutiques’ (photograph) available at: http://www.interiordesign.net/slideshows/detail/8509-masters-of-the-house/7/ [date accessed: 16th april 2016] Fig 31: Own work (21st april 2016) ‘Sensible Silence’ (Mood board) Fig 32: Own Image (3rd April 2016) Ikea Furnishing, Nottingham store (photograph) Fig 33: Own Image (3rd April 2016) Ikea Wall Hanging, Nottingham store (photograph) Fig 34: Own Work (21st april 2016) ‘The Arts of Africa’ (Mood Board) Fig 35: Own image (date unknown) Marble texture (photograph) Fig 36: Photographer Unknown (2015) Saint Laurent Visual Merchandising (Photograph) available at: http://styletaboo.tumblr.com/ post/132173574745/hedi-slimane-saint-laurent-38-faubourg-store [date accessed: 16th april 2016] Fig 37: Own work (21st April 2016) ‘Line It Up’ (Mood board)
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