ISSUE 2-2017/2018
BUCHERER THE MAGAZINE
BREATHTAKING WATCHES AND JEWELLERY
MANERO MANERO FLYBACK FLYBACK AUTOMATIC AUTOMATIC|
|ROSE ROSE GOLD GOLD 18 K 18 K
carl-f-bucherer.com carl-f-bucherer.com
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CON T EN TS FOR E WOR D Jörg G. Bucherer
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T R EN DS & I NSPI R AT ION L ON D ON C A L L I NG
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Interview with Guido Zumbühl and David Coleridge
H ISTORY
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Great vision
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SHOPPI NG
Time to shine
V ISION & T R A DI T ION 24
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TA K I NG T I M E I N Zermatt
F ROM A L PI N E H ER DSM A N TO L I FE SAV ER
Interview with Bruno Jelk 34
WATCH M A K ER S N E WS
Timepieces for winter sport
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SCISSOR S . CU T. PA PER .
Interview with Esther Gerber
E DI TOR I A L WATCH E S Joie de vivre
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F OL L OW BU CH ER ER O N f b.c o m / b u c h e re ru k @ b u c h e re r_ u k p i n t e re s t .c o m / b u c h e re r p o.s t / Bu c h e re rYo uTu b e @ b u c h e re r_ u k
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T I M E & DAT E 56
T I M E PI ECE S G A L L E RY
Rolex, Carl F. Bucherer, IWC, Cartier, Hublot, Gucci, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Girard-Perregaux, Panerai, Longines, TAG Heuer, Tudor, Baume & Mercier, Rado
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T R AV E L T H E WOR L D W I T H LUCE R N E A RT IST RY Carl F. Bucherer
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S PE E DY A N D E L EG A N T
Interview with Baume & Mercier Alexandre Peraldi, Marie Chassot 72
B UCH E R E R BLU E E DI T IONS A family with cult status
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A N ICON T U R NS 60 Piaget
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S E RV ICE FOR A L L R EQU I R E M E N TS Interview with Severin Ernst
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E V E N TS & N E WS
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BUCH E R E R B OU T IQU E S
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Big Bang Ferrari King Gold. King Gold case inspired by the brands’ iconic lines. In-house UNICO chronograph. Interchangeable strap with a patented attachment. Limited edition of 500 pieces.
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FOREWORD
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JÖRG G. BUCHERER
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he year is drawing to a close. For Bucherer, this was a year with many high points. With our purchase of the British luxury retailer The Watch Gallery, we have expanded the business into the UK, bringing with us an exclusive touch of “Swissness”, and further estab lishing the Bucherer Group as a global brand. Since Bucherer was established in 1888, our credo has been to always keep moving forward, and never stand still. In this issue, we would like to whisk you away to the best parts of Zermatt in the Swiss mountains – our home. Not only have we opened a unique Rolex boutique in Zermatt in 2017, meaning that as of this winter season, the Bucherer business will be shining with a new splendour, but also the jewellery and watches featured in this magazine were photographed against the backdrop of this enchanting mountain village. And because we have always been dedi cated to making exquisite timepieces in addition to precious jewels, in this issue we present to you our most exclusive ones – from sporty chronographs for use on the slopes to elegant and complex watches for everyday use that last a lifetime. We will also give you a glimpse of our watch repair atelier and introduce Alexandre Peraldi, Director of the Baume & Mercier Design Studio and a master of his trade, who has designed a special watch for our Bucherer BLUE EDITIONS line. Now, as ever, it is the emotions of our customers, our traditions, the high level of quality we provide, and our Swiss values that drive us to keep on surprising you again and again. Chairman of the Board of Directors
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CONTRIBUTORS
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Ellin ANDEREGG
Marianne ESCHBACH
PHOTOGR APHER
JOURNALIST
She first discovered photogra phy during a college stay in the UK. On her return to Switzerland, she com pleted an apprenticeship as a media designer, later working as a graphic designer in leading advertising agencies. After her first nationwide fashion campaign in Switzerland, she founded her own business and today is in high demand as a pho tographer.
The journalist is a real profes sional in her field and worked for a long time as editor-in-chief at a re nowned Swiss fashion magazine. Her area of expertise includes watches and jewellery, among others. A con noisseur of the luxury branch, she has been observing the beautiful and pre cious things in life and the changes they have gone through for a number of years.
Filipa FERNANDES
Sabrina KAISER-KOSSMAYR
ST YLIST
PROJECT MANAGEMENT, EDITOR- IN - CHIEF
Filipa Fernandes studied fashion at the University for Art and Design in Basel. During her studies, she assist ed in the design de part ment at Maison Martin Margiela in Paris and worked in the fashion press office Totem. Today she does the styling for editorials and still-life pho tography in the fashion, beauty and high jewellery sectors.
The passionate networker and communication strategist comes from Austria and has been working on the international market with her media agency Cosmopolite media+relations GmbH since 2011. She particularly enjoys the chal lenge pre sent ed in her work, motivates and impassions her customers and staff, and values loyalt y and handshake quality.
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TRIBUTE TO BLUE Bucherer has gathered some of the world’s most refined watches under one prestigious roof since 1888. Together with our partners in time, we are introducing the Bucherer BLUE EDITIONS. This collaboration has opened doors to new levels of creativity and originality. Discover exclusive timepieces in blue: an inspired colour for watches that are truly unique.
Available exclusively in Bucherer stores
BUCHERER.COM
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TR ENDS & INSPIR ATION
INTERVIEW
LONDON CALLING!
Bucherer acquires The Watch Gallery — Bucherer’s acquisition of The Watch Gallery in London marks their expansion into Great Britain. Here at B Bucherer The Magazine, we wanted to discover more about the secrets to success and the upcoming strategy from Guido Zumbühl, CEO Bucherer AG, and David Coleridge, Chairman Bucherer UK (formerly The Watch Gallery). INTERVIEW: MARIANNE ESCHBACH – PHOTOS: BON WONGWANNAWAT
Mr Zumbühl, Mr Coleridge, would you agree with the statement that London is a top location today for the purchase of high-quality Swiss watches?
The Watch Gallery is a pioneer in the online trade of high-quality watches. What were the greatest challenges and opportunities in on line expansion?
Guido Zumbühl: London is a fas cinating global metropolis. In London, trends are created that are followed across the whole world. This lifestyle makes London unique. It is a huge asset for the Bucherer brand to now be present in this hotspot.
DC: The online business as such is a challenge! We are in the middle of intensive discussions on this sub ject with Bucherer. “All online” is still an experiment. We cannot yet say what we will be doing in 12 months’ time. The market is changing so rapidly, in unexpected directions. As a retailer, it is of utmost importance to remain ac tive and especially to lead the field. The UK market is the most de veloped online market in the world. In the UK, 20 per cent of sales are made online. They are followed in second place by the USA. This dynamic influ ences the watch business, which is more conservative and accepts ••
David Coleridge: There are elem ents that are the same and then there are elements that are funda mentally different. To put it bluntly, people come to London to see the city and they travel to Switzerland to purchase a watch. In London, the purchase of a watch is given second or third priority.
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David Coleridge, Chairman Bucherer UK (formerly The Watch Gallery)
Guido ZumbĂźhl, CEO Bucherer AG
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•• new technology at a slower pace. The UK is the leading online market place for everyone, whether it be the Richemont Group or the LVMH brands. It is our challenge to be faster and better than our competitors. GZ: Bucherer strongly welcomes the experience in the digital sector that The Watch Gallery brings with it. On the one hand, this accelerates our approach, because there is already an established understanding of what works best and what may not work too well. On the other hand, we can see a chance, due to Bucherer’s cap acity, to offer these fantastic services to a much larger customer base. How do the two brands Bucherer and The Watch Gallery complement each other and which is the stronger of the two companies?
GZ: Bucherer is the European leader in its sector today and has been in the business for almost 130 years. This established position, however, does not make us quietly complacent. We challenge ourselves every day, always with the objective of offering the best possible experi ence for our customers. The incomparable Bucherer experience is now meeting one of the dynamic markets, and our ability to innovate will be chal lenged and developed to an even higher level. These combined aspects will strengthen the Bucherer brand sustainably. DC: When we decided to sell the business, we scrutinised all significant watch retailers on the market as pos sible buyers. Bucherer stood at the very top of our wish list as a buyer. There are three reasons for this. Firstly, pa ny. Bucherer is a family-run com These companies do not invest for the short term but for a long time in the future. Secondly, we sell expen B B u c h e r e r T h e M a g a z i n e — I s s u e 2 -2 017/ 2 018
INTERVIEW
sive products; we have accordingly large and expensive stores. This also requires a long-term plan. Thirdly, the buyer had to be in a position to afford our business. There are surprisingly few retailers in our sector who uphold these values and have the wish, as well as the financial means, to expand on an international level. How does the future look for the employees? Will the new company keep all employees?
DC: A family-run company is also there for the employees. We want our people to feel secure and to offer them a challenge for the future. There fore, we had to choose a buyer who can invest and offer career chances. A family-run company with a longterm vision provides its people with stability. Our own business is based on a family-run company. It was David Morris The London Jew el ler Business. We acquired the watch business from the company 11 years ago. A number of the em ploy ees continue to work for us. We have al ways upheld the family values and were never too “corporate” in our ap proach. This is exactly the attitude that we admire at Bucherer. GZ: I can only agree with that, Bucherer is an extremely responsible employer. “Hire and fire” has no place in our principles. We want to work successfully in the long term with our employees. What do the Swiss think of the British? And what do the British think of the Swiss?
GZ: The Swiss love The British Way of Life. We understand only too well the sometimes headstrong men talit y the British display in their pursuit of freedom and independence. Our so ci e ties operate on similar ideas
on subjects such as a constitutional state, fundamental freedom, social and economic order and sound gov ernment leadership. Ultimately, we should not forget that the English were the pioneers of Alpinism and tourism in Switzerland. DC: The British associate Switzer land most frequently and obviously with snow and skiing. We all have this stereotypical mindset. Since the polit ical upsets in England, we have been scrutinising the Swiss political system more exactly and the re la tion ship between Switzerland and Europe. We would like to have that too. We have an innate respect for Switzerland. I have concluded to my amazement that we are extremely different with regard to planning and organis ation. In England we say, “It’ll be alright on the night”. We somehow make things possible. In Switzerland everything is organised. That is probably the greatest cultural difference. To what extent will Brexit influ ence the European economy?
DC: My opinion on Brexit is taint ed by my wishes and hopes. No one knows for sure what will happen. The English economy is such an important partner in Europe that there can never be a total break. However, while Switzerland maintains an extremely balanced relationship to the Union, it is more difficult for Great Britain to establish a similar relationship due to its size; the time frame is also too short. However, I strongly believe that with open ness on both sides and many complicated delays and transi tional periods, we will never be completely separate from each other. GZ: It is impossible to forecast that exactly. We Swiss know that there is life outside the EU. Nevertheless, at the same time the EU is a central ••
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Bucherer is the European leader in its sector today and has been in the business for almost 130 years. Guido Zumbühl, CEO Bucherer AG
•• partner and affiliated countries and neighbours such as Germany or France are its members. We are certain that London will retain its in com pa ra ble aura. The young, the creative and the courageous will de velop new visions of human life in this fantastic city.
Thirdly, in summer we launched our company-owned Carl F. Bucherer watch brand at Selfridges, one of the le gend ary locations for The Watch Gallery. Our businesses in London are becoming larger and more luxurious and offer a delightful shopping ex perience.
What can customers expect in the future from the combined strengths in business and online?
DC: As far as online shopping is concerned, we will support Bucherer in getting online faster in Europe.
GZ: It is about customer satisfac tion, and I think that we can offer an even better experience in the future. We can offer an even larger product range through the relationships that Bucherer maintains with the brands. We are bringing three important new products to the UK. Firstly the Bucherer BLUE EDITIONS. These Bucherer-exclusive blue watch models from leading watch manuf acturers are unique in our branch. We will launch them in England in October. Customers’ requests for special or rare products are consistently increasing in number. The Bucherer Blue Editions are our answer. Then we will introduce Bucherer Fine Jewellery to the UK.
Short question, short answer: London or Lucerne?
DC: Both. That is the only answer I can give. I love Lucerne because it gives me the feeling I am on a short break. When I step out of the train, I ask myself whether I am the only per son who comes here to work. I had to promise my wife to take her with me soon. The best thing about it is that I can be in both cities in one day. In the morning in London, in the afternoon in Lucerne. Like today. GZ: I completely agree with David: both! (laughs)
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HISTORY
GREAT VISION
and a lot of hard work — From a small jewellery and watch shop to an international giant in less than 130 years – the story of Bucherer, the Swiss family-run business. TEXT: MARIANNE ESCHBACH – PHOTOS: BUCHERER AG
1925, Bucherer designed a rectangular jewellery watch with a flexible, hand-wrought gold bracelet and an elaborate art nouveau case. A railwaytrack-style chapter ring for the minutes complemented the Arabic numerals for the hours.
1888, Carl Friedrich Bucherer. Like his father of the same name, Carl Friedrich Bucherer was a businessman and a full-blooded entrepreneur. He recognised the potential offered by Lucerne and brought watchmaking and the art of jewellery-making to its lakeshore.
Creativity and business acumen
So many lucky numbers at one time – under these conditions, whatever one touches can only turn to gold. In 1888, the goldsmith Carl Friedrich Bucherer, son of a toy retailer and haberdasher from Basel, probably had the blos soming tourism in Switzerland from the railway and steamboats in mind when he moved to Lucerne. With his wife, Louise, he had plans to open a jewellery and watch busi ness on Falkenplatz. In today’s world, we would describe the Bucherer husband and wife team as a power couple; both Carl Friedrich and Louise were born with creativity and business acumen. The shop soon became too small and they opened up larger premises on Kapellplatz and then on Schwanen platz. The business address, which is
1888, Carl Friedrich and Louise Bucherer opened a retail store selling watches, jewellery and precious stones on Lucerne’s Falkenplatz (pictured: Louise Bucherer-Humitzsch). Carl Friedrich Bucherer Sr provided the necessary start-up capital. The Bucherers were descended from a family of merchants in Basel.
still considered as the main business to day, has a direct view of Lake Lucerne and the two mythical moun tains; Rigi and Pilatus, which enticed trav el lers to the pretty picture-book city with the oldest wooden bridge in Europe. Two brothers on their travels
The Bucherer couple showed keen fore sight and had both their sons strategically and skilfully trained: Ernst completed his watchmaker ap pren tice ship in the Jura mountains, while Carl Eduard became a gold smith specialising in the fine design of watch casings in London. The brothers were very close and de cid ed after their training and after entering the family business in 1913 to go out and experience the world for a while. Berlin
seemed to be the perfect location for this, and in 1915 they opened a shop on the prestigious boulevard Unter den Linden. Ernst Bucherer became the Imperial Court Watchmaker. The ad venture in the metropolis ended rapid ly three years later with the November revolution and the abolition of the monarchy in Germany. The brothers closed the Berlin business and returned to Lucerne, but not without launching one more ladies’ watch col lec tion inspired by the exuberant attitude to life in the metropolis and early art deco. With their bustling lifestyle, they immediately began to expand the network of branches and soon the tourist country of Switzerland had Bucherer branches in the emerging holiday resorts Lugano, St. Moritz and Interlaken, where travellers from all over the world gathered.
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Pioneering acts and a family drama
It seems that the Bucherers always felt driven to tackle something new. Carl Eduard and Ernst headed out in the 20s to win over the South American market. They opened wholesale busi ness es in Chile and Argentina. In the meantime, Carl Eduard married Wilhelmina Heeb, the daugh ter of a lace and embroidery manufacturer from the canton of Appenzell which supplied haute couture in Paris with delicate fabric creations. Mina Bucherer-Heeb, called “Mimi”, was a woman of taste who had an instinct for beau ti ful, exclusive pieces. She was not fulfilled with the conventional duties of being a wife at that time. Instead, the confident young woman as sumed an active role in the South American busi ness: she was responsible for the purchase of gems, jewellery and watches and travelled around the world in this capacity. On 25 October 1927, the thriving inter nationalisation of the company and the Bucherer family history ex pe ri enced a dramatic stroke of fate. Mina Bucherer-Heeb was return ing from Europe on board the luxurious Italian South America liner Principessa Mafalda. With itsdestination in sight, the liner had a serious accident off the Brazilian coast: A propeller broke; large volumes of water penetrated into the hull and caused an explosion in the boiler. Panic broke out and over 300 of the 1,000 passengers on board lost their lives, although other ships were quickly on the spot and several hours passed before the Principessa Mafalda sank. Mina Bucherer-Heeb was one of those lost. The shipwreck is still rest ing in the depths of the Atlantic, undiscovered to date. And with it a valuable freight of jewellery and watches, which the entrepreneur’s wife had been carrying with her in the safe on board the ship.
HISTORY
Always in touch with the times
Devastated by their grief, widow Carl Eduard and his brother terminated their business in South America and returned to Switzerland. The global economic crisis also affected the Bucherer company. New de vel op ments such as the wristwatch and the automatic winding mechanism, which English watchmaker John Harwood had patented in the 20s in Switzerland, helped the sector to sustain success despite the temporarily difficult environ ment. Jewellery also gained the attention of wider circles. Around the turn of the century, two natural phenomena and one human development had awakened general interest in jewellery. In Bucherer’s founding year, a landslide in the Himalayas had brought exceptional sapphires to light. It is by no coin ci dence that Bucherer’s company colour is blue. In South Africa, workers discovered the huge diamonds Cullinan and Excelsior, which were split and polished by the Asscher brothers in Amsterdam. And, in 1925, when Kokichi Mikimoto from Japan presented his cultivated Akoya pearls at the world exhibition in Paris, an incredible triumphal procession for the pearl began. Bucherer consistently developed its skills in the watch and jewellery sector. At the same time, a close re la tion ship was formed between Bucherer and the lesser-known Rolex, which is still intact today and makes Bucherer the most significant retailer for Rolex watches. Economic miracle and times of crisis
The boom in the post-war years again accelerated Bucherer’s growth. The eco nom ic prosperity rekindled the desire to travel and the numerous tourists who visited Switzerland placed the purchase of a Swiss watch high up on their list of things to do. Preferably,
1924, the Bucherer brothers decided to include Rolex in the company’s range. Cooperation with the young Geneva-based brand developed into a fantastic partnership of exemplary character. Today, Bucherer is one of Rolex’s leading agents and has the largest choice of models available anywhere in the world.
this would be a Bucherer watch. Fol lowing the visit from the late American President Richard Nixon to the main business in Lucerne, Bucherer became highly renowned especially amongst Americans. Bucherer had taken over a company in Biel which specialised in the assembly of precision chrono meters and was able to produce 30,000 watches per year thanks to the latest work methods. The company was now headed by Ernst Bucherer, his son Erich and Jörg G. Bucherer, the son of the late Carl Eduard. In the euphoria of the 50s and 60s, the next storm was imminent,at least for the watch industry. In the 50s, an electrically powered clock mechanism ticked for the first time. In the 60s, Bucherer was part of a Swiss consortium which pro duced the first standard off-the-shelf quartz mechanism for watches. Initially still a luxury niche product, quartz mechanisms rapidly became massproduced goods with which the Asian manufacturers flooded the market and plunged the Swiss watch industry into a fundamental crisis from which it only recovered in the 90s. However, it was all the more strong for the experience.
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The case and strap attachments of this exquisite ladies’ watch are set with numerous diamonds. The crown is also beautifully decorated.
Two good friends: Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf and Ernst Bucherer
Success and expansions
Under Jörg G. Bucherer, who has been running the family business since 1977, extremely successful decades were to come for Bucherer. In the 80s, Lucerne became a Swiss tourist magnet. In particular, travellers from Asia visited the picturesque city in droves and prioritised shopping for a watch, or even several watches. The expertise and excellent service from the Bucherer is world renowned. The company opened numerous branches in Switzerland and began international expansion with the takeover of a famous watch business in Vienna. From 2001 onwards, the com pany began manufacturing watches under the brand Carl F. Bucherer, in honour of the company founder. In 2016, several million Swiss francs were invested in the expansion of manufac tur ing in Lengnau near Biel. In the summer of 2017, Carl F. Bucherer watch shops were opened in China and also in Lucerne. In the jewellery sector, Bucherer launched new diamond collections such as Lacrima with the teardrop-shaped emblem and a little later Vivelle, inspired by art deco and the era of Mina Bucherer-Heeb, who is also commemorated in the launch of the Tribute to Mimi diamond
watch by Carl F. Bucherer. In 2013, the business saw further success with stores opening in Germany, and, in addition to this, Bucherer opened the largest watch store in the world. In the centre of Paris, Bucherer opened a boutique to commemorate the 125th company anniversary. In our own jewellery atelier in Lucerne, exclusive High Jewellery creations were pro duced to mark Bucherer’s 125th anniversary. Despite economically challenging times, Bucherer undertook far-sighted business actions and strengthened the dynamics with new shop concepts and collections. Shopin-shop boutiques were designed for several of the best European department stores. In Copenhagen, Bucherer recently opened another business abroad. On the product side, the Bucherer BLUE EDITIONS watches, spe cially created for Bucherer by major brands including Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre or Tudor in the com pany colour blue have been enjoying success for the past year. The latest editions come from the Genevese manufacturer Baume & Mercier. In addition to this, jewellery has expand ed to include rings, necklaces and earrings from the new Peekaboo col lection; glittering in pale pastel tones and with diamonds since October. The
anticipated market entry into the UK through the acquisition of The Watch Gallery will culminate in October 2017 with the launch of the Bucherer brand to the world metropolis of London. This will definitely be a highlight of 2017 and will go down in Bucherer history, staying true to the motto from Jörg G. Bucherer in the jubilee pub li ca tion for the 125th birthday, “Resilience, untiring pursuit for success and a tremendous amount of hard work”.
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ROLEX, Oyster Perpetual Day Date 40, 18K white gold, 40 mm, in-house self-winding movement, day and date display, bezel set with diamonds (total approx. 2.18 ct), ₤ 42.700,–
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TIME TO SHINE. — These timepieces are the perfect accessories for both après-ski outfits and elegant evening looks.
IWC, Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days, stainless steel, 45 mm, with power-reserve display, ₤ 8.350,– JAEGER-LECOULTRE, Reverso Classic Medium Duetto, stainless steel, in-house hand-wound movement, hours and minutes on front and reverse identical, case set with diamonds (total approx. 0.52 ct), ₤ 8.050,– PIAGET, Polo S, stainless steel,
42 mm, self-winding movement, limited to 888 watches, ₤ 9.450,–
VISION & TRADITION
TA K ING TIME IN
ZERMATT. — Zermatt, the little town at the foot of the Matterhorn, is situated on the Swiss border with Italy. In Zermatt it appears that all is well in the world: cute black-faced sheep, marmots and squirrels. But Zermatt would not be Zermatt if that were all there was to it. TEXT: SABRINA KAISER-KOSSMAYR
Even if the Matterhorn is not the highest mountain in Switzerland, it is certainly one of the most impressive and most photographed mountains in the world. It exudes a sense of magic, from which hardly anyone can escape. Yes, it is the mountain of all mountains – the epitome of a classic mountain. It has become the Swiss national symbol with its distinctive 4 478-metre-high summit. However, the best view of the Matterhorn can be enjoyed looking from the bottom towards the top, from the centre of Zermatt. Almost a third of all mountains over 4 000 metres in the Alps are grouped around the town, which has 5 500 inhabi tants. It is hard to believe that Zermatt was nothing more than a mountain village only 150 years ago. Today it is a hiking paradise in summer and in winter, an El Dorado for skiing. Zermatt may focus on an affluent clientele, but its style is not as pretentious as for example in
St. Moritz: it has more of a sporty ambience. This is also linked to the local tradition of tourism. It began with the first ascent of the Matterhorn by the Englishman Edward Whymper in 1865. This sensation and the mountain village, which had been in a deep sleep until then, made the headlines. Today there are up to 140 people ascending the Matterhorn on some days. If you prefer to keep your feet on the ground and not climb around at high altitude, you may want to relish some culinary delicacies, because Zermatt is heaven on earth for gourmets. The local restaurants boast 254 Gault Millau points. Zermatt is also a veritable shopping paradise. You will be amazed by the selection on offer if you stroll along Bahnhofstrasse. We have compiled 14 addresses for you to make a visit to Zermatt simply unforgettable. True to the saying: Zermatt: small, but impressive!
© Shutterstock
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RESTAURANTS & HOTELS © Chez Vrony
Restaurant Chez Vrony Natural cordiality, sincere hospitality and a breathtaking view of the Matterhorn – that is Chez Vrony. Everything served here, from hay soup with barley and jerky or Bloody Mary soup with lamb chorizo and basil froth, tastes wonderful.
© Hotel Mirabeau
www.chezvrony.ch
Restaurant Veranda in Hotel Mirabeau Alain Kuster has been cooking in the 4-star Hotel Mirabeau for 27 years and he is considered a living chef legend in Zermatt. In the Veranda restau rant, he conjures up casual Alpine cuisine with his team, offering an exquisite à la carte menu and a 5-course menu that changes daily. B B u c h e r e r T h e M a g a z i n e — I s s u e 2 -2 017/ 2 018
www.hotel-mirabeau.ch
© Hotel Post
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Unique Hotel Post The mountain lodge vibe at the Unique Hotel Post gives a new twist to cosiness and mountain holidays. Regional natural mate rials, sandblasted wood, hundredyear-old drystone walls and linear, modern design make the Unique Hotel Post truly unique, both inside and out.
Luxury Loft by Heinz Julen Heinz Julen sets completely new standards in the 5-star luxury segment. The Luxury Loft is with out a doubt the most spectacular property in the whole of Zermatt. If you want to spend the night like a rock star, you may have to dig deep into your pocket, but in return a chef and butler are at your beck and call round the clocka, and you can celebrate to your heart’s content in the 600-square-metre living area. www.backstagehotel.ch
© Backstage Hotel
www.hotelpost.ch
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© Bayard Sport
LUXURY
Bayard Sport You always cut a good figure in an outfit from Bayard – in the town or on the slopes. Trendy, elegant or sporty – the multibrand store oozes Alpine life style and knows how to enthuse sportsmen and women, jet-setters and mountain lovers alike.
Bogner Boutique Freedom, sportiness and tradition! This motto does not only apply to Zermatt, but also to Bogner. The brand presents the Bogner vision in its Zermatt store with plenty of wood, light-flooded rooms, nat ural stone, glass and personal favourite pieces. If you want to conquer the mountain world true to the original style, you’ve come to the right place. www.bogner.com
© Bogner
www.bayardsport.ch
© Bucherer AG
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Bucherer Zermatt Bucherer stores can always be found on the most beautiful and popular retail and busi ness streets in Switzerland. It’s hardly surpris ing that the Zermatt store is located directly in the centre of the village on the popular Bahnhofstrasse. The boutique is undergoing complete ren o va tion at the moment. From 5 December, the Bucherer world will shine again in new splendour.
© Mykita
www.bucherer.com
Mykita Mykita Shop Zermatt provides the best vision for the mountains. It places particular focus on Mykita Mylon glasses – from minimalistic to extravagant, there is something for every face shape. But the glasses collection is not the only fascinating thing – the unusual, completely white store design is impressive. www.mykita.com
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TA K ING TIME IN
ART & CULTURE © Florian Aeby
Zermatt Unplugged Founded in 2007 by Thomas Sterchi and Marco Godat as a singer and songwriter festival, Zermatt Unplugged has increasingly evolved into a meeting point for fans of authentic sound. Musicians and bands such as Alanis Morissette, Billy Idol, Amy Macdonald, OneRepublic, Lauryn Hill, Roger Hodgson and many more were inspired by the idea of Unplugged and performed on the tent and club stages of the festival. www.zermatt-unplugged.ch
© Cervo
Freilichtspiele Zermatt The fact that Freilichtspiele Zermatt is a unique theatre experience can be attri buted first and foremost to the venue. The Matterhorn towers majestically over every thing and provides a constantly changing stage setting. To date, “The Matterhorn Story” and “Romeo and Julia on Gorner grat” have been staged on the highest open-air stage in Europe at 2 600 metres above sea level. Nature is a wonderful director. www.freilichtspiele-zermatt.ch
CERVO guests can choose from six chalets with a total of 36 rooms and suites. Classy materials, natural colours and tasteful design form the setting for unforgettable holiday moments with a view of the Matterhorn. As each house has its own spa, you can enjoy the beauty of the Alpine world here in an intimate atmosphere – just as if you were staying with good friends. www.cervo.ch
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© Freilichtspiele Zermatt
Cervo Zermatt
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© Snowboat
© Matterhorn Paradise
DISCOVERIES
Snowboat It’s impossible to ignore the influence here – Hans Julen’s designer signature stands out. Dreamy cocktails and delicious snacks are on offer in a relaxed atmosphere aboard the snowboat. If you’re a fan of après-ski, you will be in good hands here.
Moonlight descent The moon has always fascinated us. This mysticism can be felt up close on the moonlight descent from Gornergrat. After a hearty cheese fondue, ski back down into the valley and marvel as the moon kisses the Matterhorn and envelops it in a gentle silver veil. www.matterhornparadise.ch
Descent of Monte Rosa Monte Rosa, the mountain calls! Fly in the helicopter up to 4 200 metres above the snowy moun tains. Then click on your skis and glide down into the valley through pristine deep snow – in front of the impressive backdrop of fourthousander peaks. It’s sure to make every skier’s heart beat a little faster. www.alpincenter-zermatt.ch
© Alpincenter Zermatt
www.zermattsnowboat.com
VISION & TRADITION
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WATC H M A K E R S N E WS
FROM ALPINE HERDSMAN TO LIFESAVER. Bruno Jelk
— Bruno Jelk is the most famous mountain rescue responder in the Alps. In almost 35 years he has not only saved the lives of thousands of people as the head of rescue for Zermatt, but has also revolutionised the rescue services. His inventions and developments of devices have become standard rescue equipment worldwide. Bruno Jelk helps where he is needed: as an avalanche expert in Sochi or a trainer in Nepal. TEXT: SABRINA K AISER- KOSSMAYR
Your passion is mountain rescue. How long have you been saving lives? And what appeals to you most?
I have been an active mountain rescuer since I was a boy. From 1980 until 2014 I was the head of rescue for Zermatt. I also supervise a number of training programmes abroad such as air rescue in Nepal. In short, mountain res cue has simply been my life for the past 35 years. And today I am still in the mountains every day. In winter I often accompany ski teachers and mountain guides; in summer I go on mountain tours. I couldn’t live in the city. I can’t imagine a life without the mountains.
TISSOT, T-Touch Expert Solar,
black, titanium/PVD coating, 45 mm, solar quartz movement with touch technology, com pass, altimeter, weather fore cast multifunc tion, ₤ 795,–
How many mountain rescue as signments have you taken part in?
I’ve lost count. Air Zermatt alone has – including ski accidents – approxi mately 1 700 assignments each year. Tourism, alpinism and mountain rescue have changed drastically over the years. What has changed in par ticular about mountain rescue?
We used to have only the normal mountaineers here in Zermatt. New types of sport such as paragliding, extreme climbing and freeriding give rise to different and many more acci dents. Mountain rescue has to be pre pared for these problems, which are predominantly in the technical sector.
So the right equipment is espe cially important in mountain rescue. What do you always have with you?
My Tissot watch. The altimeter, stop watch and barometer are of particu lar importance. In the mountains it is crucial to be able to read the altitude at all times, especially when on foot. If you have this type of watch, you don’t need any more special devices, as you have all the important func tions on your wrist. This simplifies my work enormously. It is important that I can also use it in bad weather condi tions. The altimeter and compass are particularly important to be able to locate your position and work out in which direction you should be going. Christine Julen and Bruno Jelk at Bucherer Zermatt.
Has this been an incentive for new inventions from Jelk?
Yes. When a problem arises more than twice, I realise that a change has to be made in the technology or methods. That’s why we have always adapted the rescue services. I conse quently became an inventor and cre ator to be able to carry out rescue operations safely and efficiently. For ex ample, the development of the tripod is one of my inventions.
So the technical equipment is ex treme ly important, but what skills should a mountain rescuer have?
A lot of expertise. And of course you have to be able to climb well. A moun tain rescuer has to know the moun tains. Excellent knowledge of the area is a must when searching for missing persons. A mountain rescuer also has to be able to analyse well and to comprehend the casualty’s situation. This en sures that the casualty is found quicker and can receive optimal care.
The Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar is the first solar-powered touchscreen watch. It boasts a permanent analogue display and different digital displays. The following functions are also available by simply touching the watch screen: Weather, altimeter, chronograph, compass, alarm and countdown. Another feature of the watch is the bezel with compass that you can see even in the dark. In addition to the technical enhancements, the design of the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar is highly distinctive. Adventurers will appreciate the additional extras such as the extendable leather Velcro strap, which can even be worn over climbing gear.
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TIMEPIECES FOR WINTER SPORT. — Current sport watches look great and offer fantastic functionality, combined with wonderful comfort. However, these watches also cut a fine figure when taking things a little easier, too. PHOTOS: IVO MÜLLER
ROLEX, Oyster Perpetual Explorer, 904L steel, 39 mm, in-house self-winding movement, ₤ 4.800,– ROLEX, Oyster Perpetual Air-King, 904L steel, 40 mm, in-house self-winding movement, ₤ 4.550,– B B u c h e r e r T h e M a g a z i n e — I s s u e 2 -2 017/ 2 018
CARL F. BUCHERER,
Patravi TravelTec Black, stainless steel with black DLC coating, 46.6 mm, automatic movement, chronograph, 3 time zones, date display, ₤ 10.200,–
VISION & TRADITION
WATC H M A K E R S N E WS
IWC PILOT’S WATCH, Chronograph,
Edition “Le Petit Prince”, stainless steel, 43 mm, automatic movement, ₤ 4.490,– ROGER DUBUIS, Excalibur 42, carbon, 42 mm, in-house automatic movement, ₤ 14.400,–
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TUDOR, North Flag, stainless steel, 40 mm, in-house automatic movement, power-reserve display, ₤ 2.640,– JAEGER-LECOULTRE, Master
Chronograph, stainless steel, 40 mm, in-house automatic movement, ₤ 9.100,–
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GUCCI, G-Frame, stainless steel,
14 × 24 mm, ₤ 780,– TAG HEUER, Carrera, stainless steel,
32 mm, quartz movement, date display, mother-of-pearl dial, bezel set with diamonds (total approx. 0.62 ct), ₤ 2.800,–
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AUDEMARS PIGUET, Royal Oak,
stainless steel, 41 mm, automatic movement, ₤ 15.000,– PANERAI, Luminor 1950, ceramic,
44 mm, in-house automatic movement, flyback chronograph, ₤ 12.500,–
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GIRARD-PERREGAUX, Laureato 42, stainless steel, 42 mm, in-house automatic movement, ₤ 8.000,–
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BAUME & MERCIER, Clifton Club,
stainless steel, 42 mm, automatic movement, ₤ 1.650,– HUBLOT, Big Bang, 18K King Gold, 39 mm, automatic movement, 467 Diamonds (total approx. 3.95 ct), ₤ 43.500,–
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UP CLOSE
SCISSORS. CUT. PAPER. — Paper cutting has been her passion for over twenty years. Esther Gerber does not need anything more than a pen, scissors and paper. As a result of years of practice, she has developed her own personal style of presenting trees, people and watch movements as silhouettes in landscapes. Her delicate, wonderful masterpieces were on display in all Bucherer sales points this year, thanks to a unique collaboration. INTERVIEW: SABRINA K AISER- KOSSMAYR – PHOTOS: IVO MÜLLER
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A watchmaker needs an extremely steady hand and a great deal of sensitivity to assemble all the cogs in a watch. Both types of work require a high level of concentration.
We met Esther Gerber at her atelier in Rohrbach to exchange views on tradition, arts and crafts and attention to detail. Ms Gerber, how did you discover this rather unusual hobby?
I have always loved being creative. I am particularly fond of drawing. 26 years ago I attended a rural women’s paper cutting course. I was hooked immediately. Paper cutting always begins with a drawing, so I was able to indulge my passion and then create something from that draw ing. Each drawing is extremely per sonal and gives every paper cutter their own personal signature. What is the most important factor in paper cutting?
Cutting is a craft, which requires prac tice, practice. The more one practises, the more filigree the piece. Good drawing skills are also important. This is the only way to develop one’s own motifs. Every paper cutter should find their own pictures and imagery. Copy ing others was never something I did.
How long did it take until you found your own style?
I always had my own personal draw ing style, but I did refine it through the years. Paper cutters can immediately match the work of a paper cutter to the artist. My pieces have often been described as delightful, mainly be cause of my figures. Where do you get the ideas for your motifs?
My main inspiration is nature. Trees are my speciality. I generally make trees without leaves, so the structure of the trees can be seen. Structures
are hugely significant in paper cutting to express a concept. I draw al most everything from memory. How ever, when I draw mountains I have to draw from a template. I cannot cut a panorama of the Alps that is incor rect. Most of the other motifs emerge while drawing. One idea simply gives way to more and more ideas. A love of my homeland is one of my main in spirations. How long do you take for one paper cutting?
I need roughly three to six hours for a small picture. For a larger subject,
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it can take well over one hundred hours from the initial sketch until the paper cutting has been framed. The finer the cut, the longer the piece will take. What has been your largest pro ject to date?
The largest paper cutting that I have completed was 2.5 metres wide and 50 centimetres high. It was a paper cutting of the Alps and traditions in Berne. How expensive is a paper cutting? Can the amount of hours invested be expressed in money terms?
That depends on the size of the piece. But I do not see paper cutting as work. I love what I do and it is still my hobby, my great passion. How many pairs of scissors do you own?
I have one pair of scissors. Unlike many paper cutters, I work with only one pair of scissors. I feel free
VISION & TRADITION
UP CLOSE
with that pair. I can work in the garden in my deckchair. I do use a very spe cial pair of scissors that was custommade for me, called Gerber scissors. I was not completely satisfied with con ven tional scissors, so I had a pair of scissors made for my specific needs by Klötzli bladesmiths. You have been working with Bucherer for some time. How did that come about?
When Bucherer asked me to work with them I was faced with a substantial challenge. I did not know how I should present their jewellery. Paper cutting does not sparkle, it is not golden. It was not easy to integrate the art of watchmaking. Fortunately, I found a beautiful and fitting way of presenting all the components in close collabora tion with Bucherer. In this way, the art of traditional paper cutting fused with the high art of watch mak ing. I am extremely happy with the result.
Can the art of paper cutting be compared to the art of watchmaking?
Yes, definitely because of the finesse of the work. A watchmaker needs an extremely steady hand and a great deal of sensitivity to assemble all the cogs in a watch. Both types of work require a high level of concentration. That is why Bucherer and “Ms Gerber” are such a great match. (laughs). Thank you for your time!
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Precision is the most important skill that I have to demonstrate – I think that the watchmakers from Bucherer know what I’m talking about.
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VISION & TRADITION
E DI TOR I A L WATC H E S
JOIE DE VIVRE. PHOTOS: ELLIN ANDEREGG
HAIR & MAKE - UP: MARTIN DÜRRENMAT T
CARL F. BUCHERER, Manero Peripheral, stainless steel, 40.6 mm, self-winding movement, date display, mother-of-pearl dial, bezel set with diamonds (total approx. 0.60 ct), ₤ 7.300,– CARL F. BUCHERER, Manero CentralChrono, stainless steel, 42.5 mm, automatic movement, chronograph, 24-hour time display, date display, ₤ 4.300,– ROLEX, Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41, white Rolesor, in-house self-winding movement, date display, ₤ 6.900,–
BUCHERER FINE JEWELLERY,
see more on bucherer.com
© Thank you to our clothing sponsor, BOGNER.
MODELS: MARGARITA LA ZO, FALK NEUMANN
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TUDOR, Heritage Black Bay
Dark, stainless steel/PVD coating, in-house automatic movement, ₤ 2.970,–
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HUBLOT, Classic Fusion Aerofusion TWG Limited Edition, titanium, 45 mm, automatic movement, 45 pieces available worldwide, ₤ 13.800,– | CARTIER, Panthère de Cartier, rose gold, quartz
movement, case set with diamonds (total approx. 0.27 ct), ₤ 17.700,–
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TAG HEUER, Carrera, stainless steel, 39 mm, quartz movement, bezel set with diamonds (total approx. 0.79 ct), ₤ 3.150,–
BUCHERER FINE JEWELLERY, see more on bucherer.com
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BAUME & MERCIER, Classima, stainless steel, 31 mm, quartz movement, mother-of-pearl dial set with diamonds (total approx. 0.03 ct), ₤ 1.350,– JAEGER-LECOULTRE, TWG Exclusive, stainless steel, 27 mm, automatic movement, 30 pieces available worldwide, ₤ 8.300,–
VISION & TRADITION
E DI TOR I A L WATC H E S
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GUCCI, Dive, stainless steel, 45 mm, quartz movement, ₤ 980,– | PIAGET, Limelight Gala, white gold,
32 mm, quartz movement, case set with diamonds (total approx. 1.75 ct), ₤ 30.200,–
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AUDEMARS PIGUET, Royal Oak Offshore, stainless steel, 42 mm, chronograph, ₤ 21.600,– RADO, Coupole Classic, stainless steel/PVD coating, 41 mm, automatic movement, ₤ 1.030,–
BUCHERER FINE JEWELLERY, see more on bucherer.com
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VISION & TRADITION
E DI TOR I A L WATC H E S
Models: Margarita Lazo @ VipModels and Falk Neumann @ TimeModels. Hair & make-up: Martin Dürrenmatt.
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PANERAI, Luminor 1950, 18K rose
gold, 44 mm, in-house hand-wound movement, power-reserve display, second time zone, ₤ 24.000,– LONGINES, DolceVita, stainless steel,
quartz movement, case set with diamonds (total approx. 0.55 ct), ₤ 2.720,–
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AUDEMARS PIGUET, Millenary,
rose gold, hand-wound movement, ₤ 24.000,–
BUCHERER FINE JEWELLERY,
see more on bucherer.com
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TIME & DATE
TIMEPIECE GALLERY
TIMEPIECE GALLERY
PHOTOS: IVO MÜLLER
— Timepieces for every challenge. Classic design meets precision.
OYSTER PERPETUAL SKY-DWELLER,
white Rolesor, 42 mm, in-house self-winding movement, bidirectional rotatable Ring Command bezel, annual calendar, second time zone, ₤ 10.600,–
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OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST 41,
904L steel, 41 mm, in-house self-winding movement, date display, ₤ 5.450,–
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OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST 28,
white Rolesor, 28 mm, in-house self-winding movement, date display, ₤ 5.500,– OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT-MASTER 40,
Everose Rolesor, 40 mm, in-house self-winding movement, date display, bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel, ₤ 10.350,– OYSTER PERPETUAL COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA,
white gold, 40 mm, in-house self-winding movement, chronograph, Cerachrom bezel with tachymetric scale, ₤ 21.050,–
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OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT-MASTER II,
Everose Rolesor, 44 mm, in-house self-winding movement, small-seconds subdial, programmable countdown, Ring Command bezel with Cerachrom insert, ₤ 18.500,– OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE 40,
Everose gold, 40 mm, in-house self-winding movement, day and date display, ₤ 27.650,– OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST 41,
yellow Rolesor, 41 mm, in-house self-winding movement, date display, ₤ 9.350,–
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CELLINI DATE, white gold, 39 mm,
in-house self-winding movement, date display, ₤ 13.150,– CELLINI MOONPHASE, Everose gold,
39 mm, in-house self-winding movement, moonphase display, date display, ₤ 19.650,–
62 MANERO FLYBACK, stainless steel, 43 mm, automatic movement, chronograph, date display, ₤ 4.700,– MANERO FLYBACK, stainless steel, 43 mm, automatic movement, chronograph, date display, ₤ 4.700,– MANERO FLYBACK, red gold, 43 mm, automatic movement, chronograph, date display, ₤ 13.600,–
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63 MANERO POWERRESERVE, stainless steel,
42.5 mm, self-winding movement, power-reserve display, day display, big date, small-seconds subdial, limited to 188 watches, ₤ 7.500,– MANERO POWERRESERVE, stainless steel,
42.5 mm, self-winding movement, power-reserve display, day display, big date, small-seconds subdial, limited to 188 watches, ₤ 7.500,– MANERO PERIPHERAL, stainless steel,
40.6 mm, self-winding movement, date display, small-seconds subdial, mother-of-pearl dial, bezel set with diamonds (total approx 0.60 ct), ₤ 7.300,–
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TIMEPIECE GALLERY
TRAVEL THE WORLD WITH LUCERNE ARTISTRY. — Lucerne is always worth the trip. Classic and modern architecture, art and culture are just as much part of this enchanting city on Lake Lucerne as the Bucherer family company, founded in 1888. TEXT: SABRINA K AISER- KOSSMAYR
In the early days, it began as one specialist shop for watches and jewellery. It has long since be come an internationally operating company and Carl F. Bucherer a watch brand with an excellent reputation around the world – especially for those who feel at home anywhere in the world but like to surround themselves with familiar objects. They value the Manero Flyback as a stylish companion and ambassador for the city of Lucerne, the home of watch manufacturer Carl F. Bucherer. This nostalgic and at the same time cutting-edge chronograph provides the perfect companion on the wrist of sophisticated fashion-conscious indi viduals, wherever they go. In addition to the two premiere models with their silver-coloured dial, available in stainless steel or rose gold, three expressive variations joined the line in 2017. The version with steel casing has the distinguishing feature of a dial that changes colour from grey to dark blue depending on light penetration. The rose gold “Manero Flyback” with a jet black dial holds an almost magical fascination. The other rose gold chronograph presents itself as a particularly striking ambassador for the Baroque city of Lucerne and the Carl F. Bucherer company, with a cham pagne-coloured dial in varying shades. Regard-
less of which design you choose, there is plenty to discover on all the dials. At the outer edge, there is a tachymeter dial. If you are travelling to Lucerne by car, you can use it to time the average speed over one kilometre. Another feature is its fascinating three-dimensionality, produced by applied indices, an easily read calendar display, and lowered dials for the permanent second at 9 o’clock and the pendant for the 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock. By the way: The lovingly decorated CFB 1970 automatic calibre inside the elegant but sporty casing is a horolog ical delight: in addition to a classic ratchet wheel for measuring short intervals, the ticking oeuvre has a flyback function, which enables the user to record consecutive time intervals. In other words: to stop, return to the zero position and immediately restart the timer, you only need to activate the rest button at 4 o’clock once, whereas in conventional chronographs the button has to be activated three times. And veritable lovers of aesthetics will be delighted with the watch back: the transparent back cover of the Manero Flyback 43 mm casing allows you to admire the finest of mechanisms.
The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page. Aurelius Augustinus
MANERO FLYBACK, rose gold, 43 mm, automatic movement, chronograph, date display, ₤ 13.600,–
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INGENIEUR CHRONOGRAPH, stainless
steel, 42 mm, in-house automatic movement, chronograph, ₤ 7.250,– INGENIEUR CHRONOGRAPH, stainless
steel, 42 mm, in-house automatic movement, chronograph, ₤ 7.250,– INGENIEUR AUTOMATIC, stainless steel, 40 mm, automatic movement, ₤ 4.150,–
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TANK FRANÇAISE, stainless steel,
quartz movement, case set with diamonds (total approx. 0.62 ct), ₤ 7.200,– TANK LOUIS CARTIER, rose gold, Manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding, ₤ 7.750,–
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TIMEPIECE GALLERY
SPEEDY AND ELEGANT. — The story of Bucherer BLUE EDITIONS continues. A special edition of the sporty Clifton Club Shelby Cobra from Baume & Mercier is writing a new chapter. Alexandre Peraldi and Marie Chassot, head designer and marketing director for the 187-year-old watch manufacturer tell us about the creation process. TEXT: MARIANNE ESCHBACH – PHOTOS: THOMAS EGLI
How did the partnership between Bucherer and Baume & Mercier come about?
Marie Chassot: Bucherer and Baume & Mercier have had an excellent relationship for many years. We were one of the first watch manufacturers after Rolex in the 20s to work together with Bucherer. It was therefore only natural that Baume & Mercier would also play a part in the Bucherer BLUE EDITIONS family.
Alexandre Peraldi
Limited Edition Baume & Mercier Clifton Club Shelby Cobra for Bucherer BLUE EDITIONS, 44 mm, mechanical mechanism with automatic winding (Valjoux 7750) and chronograph, tachymeter and date display, stainless steel casing, sapphire glass base, sun satin-finished blue dial, calfskin strap, ₤ 3.800,–
Alexandre Peraldi: The groundwork had already been established through the existing partnership between Baume & Mercier and the sports car brand Shelby. We presented a special edition of our Clifton Club Shelby Cobra watch in blue and white at the SIHH watch salon in Geneva in January 2017. This model is a homage to the legendary i can racing car. The unusual Amer colour combination did not escape Bucherer’s attention. It made them realise that we would also fit perfectly into their blue collection. We had al ready had a few meetings with
Bucherer a while before, but this model at the Geneva watch salon ignited and enriched the discussions. Which values are common to Baume & Mercier and Bucherer?
MC: Without doubt and quite obviously the love of watches, of watchmaking and of good design. And the cultiva tion of a relationship to end consumers. AP: We are similar in our aesthetic standards. We have the same taste. Both companies love beautifully de vel oped products and crafts man ship. We share the same opinion on watchmaking details and quickly found a common approach together. How do you explain the success of the colour blue?
AP: In watchmaking, trends manifest themselves like swells in the ocean, rather than wave movements. It is often a matter of colour combinations and coloured straps. For example, the customers love green in the display cabinet, but they don’t buy it. In the
Baume & Mercier Clifton Club Shelby Cobra for Bucherer BLUE EDITIONS
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last while, tastes have changed some what. All brands are returning to the solid basis. This is, generally speaking, black and white. However, black is also somewhat dreary and not always appropriate. Blue is in the middle of the spectrum and it works really well. It is a challenge for designers be cause it is not a simple colour on a technical level for galvanism or PVD coatings. If you manage to achieve a top result with blue, you can be very happy. Today we say, blue is the new black. It is the punk version of black. At the moment it is just as successful as black before it. What is new in the Bucherer BLUE EDITIONS Shelby Cobra?
AP: Bucherer liked the blue a lot, so we left it. We simplified the dial by omitting the Shelby Cobra codes. It is simply a more discreet model. The small dials are colour-coordinated.
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And we worked in depth on the strap because it gives the watch its char acter. It looks like carbon but is black calfskin. We lined and stitched it in blue. The lining extends over the edge to provide extra protection. There were only 100 models made, each marked on the watch base with an engraving (“1 out of 100”). Why only blue details and not a completely blue strap?
MC: Coloured straps get worn out rel a tive ly quickly due to light and wear. The solution with the carbon finish in black looks beautiful. The blue seam and the blue lining give a sophisticated touch. It can only be seen when you look at the watch from the side or when you turn the watch. The blue shades on the dial and the strap are also different. But they complement each other perfectly all the same. This colour difference brings the design to life.
Which mechanism is in the watch? And which technical challenges did you have to overcome?
MC: The model works on a tried-andtested chronograph movement. The rotor in the Shelby Cobra was in spired by the spokes of the sports car. In the edition for Bucherer, it is manu factured in titanium and is intended to be reminiscent of the lightweight construction of the aluminium car. This marks the exclusivity of this partnership. AP: The rotor is technologically ad vanced. Generally it gets its momen tum from the asymmetric construction. It was a challenge to achieve the right momentum with this type of rotor disc. Our version turns due to the varying thickness of the oscillating weight. It is thinner at the centre and thicker at the periphery. But this is not visible.
71 If the Baume & Mercier “Clifton Club Shelby Cobra” is a sports car, is the Bucherer BLUE EDITIONS version then a sporty limousine?
AP: Let’s say it’s a very racy sports car with enough elegance to be driven along the boulevards in the city. What are your expectations of the joint project?
MC: Being part of Bucherer BLUE EDITIONS represents for us a recog nition of the collaboration with this traditional company, which has been in place for a long period of time. We are extremely proud to be part of
Bucherer BLUE EDITIONS. We consider it a success when our beautiful and successful watch, which underlines the connection between Baume & Mercier and Shelby, also becomes a commer cial success at Bucherer.
blue or turquoise... Marie and this project for Bucherer have awakened my interest in blue. It is easy and simple to wear. It is easy to combine. Blue can be both very relaxing and extremely elegant.
And finally: as a designer with what do you associate the colour blue?
AP: Universality. Sometimes I even ex clusively wear blue. Up to a few years ago I never wore blue at all. I didn’t feel right in blue clothes and didn’t have anything blue. Today I find blue an extremely beautiful colour. There are so many wonderful shades of blue. Prussian blue, lapis lazuli, cobalt
The Clifton Club Shelby ® Cobra Bucherer BLUE EDITIONS is presented in an elegant coffret in black and silver with a model of the Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupé on a scale of 1:43, extremely popular with collectors.
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A FAMILY WITH CULT STATUS. PHOTOS: IVO MÜLLER
LONGINES, The Longines Master Collection, stainless steel, 40 mm, automatic movement, ₤ 1.530,– | PANERAI, Radiomir 1940, red gold, 45 mm, in-house automatic movement, ₤ 19.600,– | PANERAI, Radiomir 1940, stainless steel, 45 mm, in-house automatic movement, ₤ 9.000,– TUDOR, Heritage Black Bay Bronze Blue, bronze, 43 mm, in-house automatic movement, supplied with additional leather strap, ₤ 2.860,– CARL F. BUCHERER, Manero Peripheral, stainless steel, 40.6 mm, in-house automatic movement, date display, ₤ 5.100,– | IWC, Portugieser Chronograph, rose gold, 40.9 mm, automatic movement, chronograph, ₤ 13.750,– | BAUME & MERCIER, Clifton Club Shelby Cobra, stainless steel,
44 mm, automatic movement, chronograph, limited to 100 watches, ₤ 3.800,–
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TIMEPIECE GALLERY
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AUDEMARS PIGUET, Royal Oak Tourbillon, stainless steel/rose gold, 41 mm, in-house hand-wound movement, ₤ 124.900,– | AUDEMARS PIGUET, Royal Oak Offshore, stainless steel/rose gold, 42 mm, automatic movement, chronograph, ₤ 27.100,– | AUDEMARS PIGUET, Royal Oak Offshore, stainless steel/rose gold, 37 mm, in-house automatic movement, chronograph, ₤ 27.100,–
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PIAGET, Altiplano, rose gold, 40 mm, manual-winding movement, ₤ 16.900,– | JAEGER-LECOULTRE, Master Ultra Thin Date, stainless steel, 40 mm, in-house automatic movement, ₤ 6.700,– JAEGER-LECOULTRE, Master Ultra Thin Date, rose gold, 40 mm, in-house automatic movement, ₤ 13.200,– | LONGINES, The Longines Master Collection, stainless steel, 36 mm, automatic movement, dial set with diamonds (total approx. 0.02 ct), ₤ 1.750,–
p o.s t / Bu c hWa t c h e s BBE
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CLASSIC FUSION BLUE TITANIUM,
titanium, 42 mm, automatic movement, ₤ 8.500,– CLASSIC FUSION AEROFUSION TWG LIMITED EDITION, titanium, 45 mm,
automatic movement, 45 pieces available worldwide, ₤ 13.800,– BIG BANG UNICO KING GOLD CERAMIC, 18K King Gold, 45 mm,
automatic movement, ₤ 30.400,–
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LE MARCHE DES MERVEILLES,
stainless steel, 38 mm, quartz movement, ₤ 590,– GUCCI PLEXIGLAS RAINBOW,
plexiglas, 24 × 40 mm, quartz movement, ₤ 650,– G TIMELESS, stainless steel, 38 mm,
quartz movement, ₤ 690,–
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TIME & DATE
TIMEPIECE GALLERY
MASTER ULTRA THIN MOON, white gold,
39 mm, in-house automatic movement, moon-phase display, ₤ 16.300,– MASTER CHRONOGRAPH, stainless
steel, 40 mm, in-house automatic movement, chronograph, ₤ 7.000,– MASTER ULTRA THIN RÉSERVE DE MARCHE, stainless steel, 39 mm,
in-house automatic movement, power-reserve display, ₤ 7.300,–
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RENDEZ-VOUS MOON MEDIUM,
rose gold, 34 mm, in-house automatic movement, moon-phase display, bezel set with diamonds (total approx. 0.69 ct), ₤ 19.900,–
80 POLO S, stainless steel,
42 mm, self-winding movement, ₤ 9.900,– ALTIPLANO, white gold, 40 mm, self-winding movement, ₤ 23.000,– LIMELIGHT GALA, rose gold,
32 mm, quartz movement, case set with diamonds (total approx. 1.76 ct), ₤ 34.800,–
81 LAUREATO 34, rose gold, 34 mm, in-house quartz movement, bezel set with diamonds (total approx. 0.82 ct), ₤ 22.500,–
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TIMEPIECE GALLERY
AN ICON TURNS 60. — The most elegant watch of all time is turning 60. The occasion for Piaget to celebrate the ultra-thin Altiplano with a limited anniversary collection. TEXT: SABRINA K AISER- KOSSMAYR
collection offers models in new and radiant colours, among them the 43 mm automatic model made of 18-carat white gold, bearing the historic al “Piaget Automatique” lettering, which adorned the very first watch dials from the brand. Equipped with an exception calibre 1203P, it marks time at just 3 mm in height. The sapphire glass base offers an uninterrupted view of the magnificent refine ment of the clock mechanism and the green sun guilloche dial enraptures the wearer with its elegant vintage effect coupled with a touch of modernity.
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PIAGET, Altiplano, yellow gold, B B u c h e r e r T h e M a g a z i n e — I s s u e 2 -2 017/ 2 018
40 mm, self-winding movement, date display, ₤ 23.300,–
© Piaget
Adopted in the early 1960s by French Actor Alain Delon, we see it today on the wrist of Ryan Reynolds. The icon came to life in 1957, when Valentin Piaget revolutionised the watch in dustry with the 9P ultra-thin manual winding move ment at, only 2 mm thick. Promoted in the 60s as the “watch for the international elite”, Piaget understood for decades how to readapt the watch to the tastes and style of its time. Fixed constants were purism, elegance and the highest level of horological refinement. The anniversary
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TIMEPIECE GALLERY
LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950, stainless
steel, 42 mm, in-house automatic movement, ₤ 7.500,– LUMINOR MARINA 1950, stainless steel,
44 mm, in-house automatic movement, ₤ 7.000,–
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LA GRANDE CLASSIQUE DE LONGINES,
stainless steel, 36 mm, automatic movement, ₤ 1.060,– THE LONGINES ELEGANT COLLECTION,
stainless steel/rose gold, 25.5 mm, automatic movement, mother-of-pearl dial, case and dial set with diamonds (total approx. 0.37 ct), ₤ 2.810,–
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86 AQUARACER, stainless steel, 43 mm,
automatic movement, ₤ 2.150,– AUTAVIA, stainless steel, 42 mm,
in-house automatic movement, chronograph, ₤ 4.150,– LINK LADY, stainless steel, 32 mm, quartz movement, mother-ofpearl dial set with diamonds (total approx. 0.11 ct), ₤ 1.850,–
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87 HERITAGE BLACK BAY, stainless steel, 41 mm, in-house automatic movement, chronograph, date display, supplied with additional fabric strap, ₤ 3.390,– HERITAGE BLACK BAY S&G,
stainless steel/yellow gold, 41 mm, in-house automatic movement, date display, unidirectional rotating 60-minute graduated bezel, supplied with additional fabric strap, ₤ 3.580,– CLAIR DE ROSE, stainless steel, 34 mm,
automatic movement, ₤ 1.670,–
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TIMEPIECE GALLERY CLIFTON CLUB, stainless steel, 42 mm,
automatic movement, ₤ 1.750,– CLASSIMA, stainless steel, 42 mm, automatic
movement, chronograph, ₤ 2.550,– CLASSIMA, stainless steel, 31 mm, quartz movement, moon-phase display, case set with diamonds (total approx. 0.03 ct), ₤ 1.300,–
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CENTRIX OPEN HEART, stainless steel/PVD coating and high-tech ceramic, 33 mm, automatic movement, dial set with diamonds (total approx. 0.23 ct), ₤ 1.860,–
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SERVICE FOR ALL REQUIREMENTS. — Only the best for your watch: “With our in-house, certified watchmaking workshop, we can guarantee excellent quality and fast processing.” Watchmaker Severin Ernst talks to The Bucherer Magazine. TEXT: MARIANNE ESCHBACH – PHOTOS: BON WONGWANNAWAT
Mr Ernst, what is involved in a watch revision?
Does a revision guarantee stable value retention?
A revision is a complete overhaul of the watch. This involves completely dismantling both the casing and the mechanism. The casing is cleaned, polished, satin-finished and all seals are replaced. Following reassembly, the casing is tested for water resist ance. All worn components in the mech a nism are replaced or pro cessed. Then it is cleaned, assembled, lubricated, fine-tuned and tested for accuracy. The final inspection takes at least four days.
Yes, of course. It is extremely impor tant. Wear and tear of the compo nents creates dirt, which forms a type of abrasive paste with the oil. It has to be removed to prevent damage to the mechanism.
Do you repair all brands of watch or only the concession brands?
Severin Ernst, Watchmaker
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Basically all brand-name watches can be brought to all Bucherer retail stores for repair. We are certified by different manufacturers to offer ser vice work. We send special calibres back to the manufacturer for revision and repair.
Which services do you offer around the clock?
In the retail stores we offer so-called quick services such as battery and strap change and minor partial re pairs. In the case of complete revi sions, larger repairs and special orders, we send the watches to our head office or return them to the manu facturer. For old watches and watch es that are no longer repaired by the manufacturer, we offer everything inhouse as far as possible through to the production of work parts. However, this type of service takes some time.
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1. Carl F. Bucherer PATRAVI EvoTec PowerReserve 2. Workstation with different tools 3. Work on the mechanism 4. At the heart of the matter
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EVENTS & NEWS
C A R L F. B U C H E R E R
More than a piece of home. The grand opening of the first Carl F. Bucherer boutique, which is located in an old-town house in Lucerne, was attended by Jörg G. Bucherer, brand ambassador and celebrated global star Li Bingbing as well as numerous other guests. The theme of the celebrations was “Feel at home in the world, be at home in Lucerne.”
From left: Jörg G. Bucherer (Chairman of the Board of Directors, Bucherer AG), Li Bingbing (Carl F. Bucherer brand ambassador), Sascha Moeri (CEO of Carl F. Bucherer)
BUCHERER MUNICH
It’s a man thing. The evening, which took place at the Bavarie brasserie, was dedicated to great vehicles, luxurious watches and exquisite food and drinks. A perfect combination, which included the current BMW 5 series and watch brands Rolex, IWC, TAG Heuer and Audemars Piguet from the Bucherer company. The invitation was accepted by approximately 40 guests, who enjoyed an evening of fast cars and high-quality branded watches.
BUCHERER UK
The Wonder Room. Selfridges, one of the most well-respected stores in the world, dominates the western end of Oxford Street. The store offers six stories with over 40 000 m2 of shopping space, eleven restaurants and cafés, two exhibition halls and numerous services. In the most exclusive area, “The Wonder Room”, offers visitors the opportunity to marvel at and purchase jewellery from Bucherer Fine Jewellery, alongside a wide selection from the watch col lection. This establishes the Swiss Bucherer Group’s presence on the major British market with several boutiques at the best locations in the heart of London. In spring 2018 and following the closure of the popup store, Bucherer will open its first Fine Jewellery boutique in the luxury department store situated in the best location.
ht g i l h Hig
B U C H E R E R L U GA N O
A party on the lake. In July, Bucherer painted Lake Lugano pink and took to the Hotel Lido Seegarten to present the gemstone of the moment, morganite, to the numerous ladies and gentlemen who attended the event. This feminine and fash ionable jewellery is reminiscent of fragrant blossoms, sweet macarons and pink candy floss. From left: Franz Reichholf, Director of Bucherer Lugano, with his charming team.
BUCHERER VIENNA
Veni. Vidi. Da Vinci. From left: Simona Huber (Director of the Hotel Lido Seegarten Lugano) with a guest.
The Italian embassy in Schloss Metternich, Vienna, was the setting for an exclusive cocktail party in May this year. In addition to the impressive venue, the Da Vinci collection drew everyone’s attention.
From left: Christian Fehrer, Hannes Pantli, Michael Hofer
BUCH ER ER BOU TIQU E S
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SWITZERLAND
9004 ST. GALLEN
60311 FRANKFURT
LONDON W12 7GD
6002 LUCERNE
Multergasse 15 Tel. +41 71 222 02 22
Kaiserstrasse 1 Tel. +49 69 13 88 20
Schwanenplatz 5 Tel. +41 41 369 77 00
7500 ST. MORITZ
20354 HAMBURG
The Village Westfield London Ariel Way Tel. +44 207 292 1245
4001 BASEL
Via Maistra 17 Tel. +41 81 833 31 03
Jungfernstieg 25 Tel. +49 40 34 34 67
LONDON WC2E 8HD
Freie Strasse 40 Tel. +41 61 261 40 00
3920 ZERMATT
20354 HAMBURG
3011 BERNE
Bahnhofstrasse 6 Tel. +41 27 967 53 53
Marktgasse 2 Tel. +41 31 328 90 90
Bucherer Alsterhaus Hamburg Jungfernstieg 16-20 Tel. +49 4034 06 88 60
8001 ZURICH
7270 DAVOS
Bahnhofstrasse 50 Tel. +41 44 211 26 35
Promenade 69 Tel. +41 81 410 00 50
8060 ZURICH-AIRPORT
1204 GENEVA
Airside Center Tel. +41 44 800 85 40
45, Rue du Rhône Tel. +41 22 319 62 66
8021 ZURICH
7 The Plaza Royal Opera House Arcade Covent Garden Tel. +44 207 952 2040
LONDON SW1X 7LJ 80331 MUNICH Neuhauser Strasse 2 Tel. +49 89 29 82 83
Rolex by Bucherer One Hyde Park 100 Knightsbridge Tel. +44 207 292 0345
80333 MUNICH Residenzstrasse 2 Tel. +49 89 23 88 54 60
AUSTRIA
Bucherer Jelmoli The House of Brands Tel. +41 44 211 88 18
90402 NUREMBERG
1010 VIENNA
Hefnersplatz 4–6 Tel. +49 911 205 170
Kärntner Strasse 2 Tel. +43 1 512 67 30
3800 INTERLAKEN
GERMANY
UK
FRANCE
Höheweg 39 & 43 & 45 Tel. +41 33 826 02 02
10117 BERLIN
LONDON W1A 1AB
75009 PARIS
1003 LAUSANNE
Friedrichstrasse 176–179 Tel. +49 30 204 10 49
12, boulevard des Capucines Tel. +33 1 70 99 18 88
1, Rue de Bourg Tel. +41 21 312 36 12
10719 BERLIN
Rolex by Bucherer Wonder Room, Selfridges 400 Oxford Street Tel. +44 207 318 3213
6600 LOCARNO
Kurfürstendamm 45 Tel. +49 30 880 40 30
LONDON W1A 1AB
Piazza Grande Tel. +41 91 751 86 48
40212 DUSSELDORF
6900 LUGANO
Königsallee 26 Tel. +49 211 32 80 83
1201 GENEVA 1, Quai Mont-Blanc Tel. +41 22 732 31 18
DENMARK Wonder Room, Selfridges 400 Oxford Street Tel. +44 207 318 3830
Via Nassa 56 Tel. +41 91 923 14 24
1100 COPENHAGEN Bucherer Illum Copenhagen Østergade 52 Tel. +45 33 14 40 02
bucherer.co.uk
A R R A N GE A N A P P OIN T M E N T W IT H T H E C O N CIERGE p o.s t / Bu c h - C o n t a c t
ISSUE 2-2017/2018 IMPRINT Chairman Jörg G. Bucherer
Head of Marketing Communication Projects Nina Schlink
CEO Guido Zumbühl
Project Managers Stephanie Amstad, Sandra Keller
Director of Marketing & Business Development Jörg Baumann
Art Direction Mazarine
Head of Marketing Communications Eveline Perritaz
Post Production Burki Scherer AG
Director Jewellery Matthias Heimberg
Still Life Photography Ivo Müller
Director Watches Patrick Marc Graf
Still Life Retouching Peter Schober, Promacx
Editor-in-Chief Sabrina Kaiser-Kossmayr
Printing House werk zwei Print + Medien Konstanz GmbH
The next B BUCHERER THE MAGAZINE issue will be published in May 2018. All rights reserved. Reproduction, in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited without written consent. B BUCHERER THE MAGAZINE can accept no responsibility for the material within these pages. The items of jewellery illustrated are made of 750/000 gold. Prices subject to change without notice. Some product illustrations are larger than actual size to show details more clearly. The magazine was printed on FSC-certified paper.
One of the hardest-working players in the history of the sport, he has inspired generations and the growth of football around the world. Entrepreneur, philanthropist and st yle icon, his inf luence on popular culture transcends the pitch. Some are born to follow. Others are #BornToDare
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DAVID BECKHAM