castles and stately homes

Skåne – a plain with castles and stately homes

Skåne, Sweden’s southernmost province, is famous for its castles, fortresses, manors and stately homes. The province contains at least 250 of these types of building.

When travelling through Skåne, you experience a varied landscape, with beautiful views of the Öresund and the Baltic Sea. It is intensively cultivated, a fertile area known as ”Sweden’s granary” – a valuable section of the long, narrow and largely barren country. Skåne has been part of Sweden since 1658, before which it belonged to Denmark.

The many wars between Denmark and Sweden often focused on the right to rule over Skåne, the fertile province. Hostilities between the two countries necessitated sound defences and strongly fortified buildings that could weather lengthy sieges.

Strong fortresses

Malmöhus slott, in central Malmö, is an exciting fortress. Standing strong and impressive surrounded by its moats, it is now a museum. Citadellet in Landskrona is an equally sturdy fortress. It now houses a museum and handicrafts centre. Flowers and vegetables flourish in allotments on the embankments of the fortress. Robust defences further north also protected the Öresund coast. The city of Helsingborg guards the narrowest point of the Öresund, with Kärnan, a dark brick tower that stands tall in the heart of the city. It was once a fortified castle that was vital to the city’s defences.

Sofiero – revel in rhododendrons

Sofiero lies further north along the Öresund. It was a royal summer palace, built in 1865.

Extension work was carried out over the years to add extra floors, towers and pinnacles – all made of brick. King Gustaf VI Adolf inherited the palace, and as he was very interested in horticulture, he transformed the grounds into a rhododendron paradise. The palace is now owned by the city of Helsingborg. Sofiero is a treat for all the senses with its beautiful parks in various styles, gardens, famous restaurant, and in summer its major musical and horticultural events. The view of Öresund and its busy shipping lanes is amazing. From Sofiero park you can also see Kronborg, the renaissance castle, on the Danish coast. Kronborg is Hamlet’s castle in Shakespeare’s play.

Sofiero palace park. Photo: skane.com© sydpol.com

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Glimmingehus – a medieval fortress

In the east of Skåne, out on the fertile plain of Österlen, the medieval fortress, Glimmingehus, is a dramatic contrast. Sofiero offers openness, flowers and beauty, whereas Glimmingehus stands like a dark exclamation mark in the south east of the province.

Glimmingehus. Photo: skane.com©sydpol.com

The fortress was constructed in the late 15th century for Admiral Jens Holgersten Ulfstand, who was the scourge of the Baltic Sea with his fleet and made many enemies. He therefore needed a secure fortress for himself and his family: granite walls – 2.5-metres thick, his own well in the cellar, small windows for snipers and his own food store. The fortress is currently owned by the Swedish state. It houses an excellent museum and a restaurant, and is one of Skåne’s top tourist attractions.

Mansions and villages nestled among the trees

These large buildings and farms characterise the Skåne landscape. The stately homes are hidden away, surrounded by groves on the plain, and feature long avenues of trees that lead to lavish parks. This type of avenue always tells you that you are close to a castle, stately home or manor house. You might even catch a glimpse of towers and pinnacles over the treetops.

Most of these buildings in Skåne were built in one of three periods: the majority were constructed during the Danish period up to 1658, a few from that time until 1800, and a considerable number during the 19th century when new prosperity rippled through the province. Visiting Skåne’s castles and stately homes is a good way of learning about the history of the province. The first period, before 1658, is perhaps the most interesting, when Sweden and Denmark had a joint history, joint building traditions and a joint nobility.

Fortresses from Vikings and monks

Here is a chronological overview of about 1000 years, highlighting some of the castles, fortresses and stately homes that are open to visitors: Bosjökloster by Lake Ringsjön in the heart of Skåne was a monastery founded in 1080. It is now an exquisitely beautiful pleasure palace, with a delightful park, rose garden, exhibitions and many activities.

Bäckaskogs slott in north-east Skåne, between the picturesque lakes, Ivösjön and Oppmannasjön, was also once a monastery, and was owned by the king in the 19th century.

The park at the manor today features a hotel and restaurant.

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Krapperup manor. Photo: skane.com©sydpol.com

Krapperups slott near Kullaberg in north-west Skåne is one of Sweden’s oldest estates, dating from the 13th century. It is now owned by the Gyllenstiernska Krapperup foundation.

The main manor house is only open for pre-arranged tours during certain parts of the year. The grounds feature a beautiful park, shop, café and art gallery that are open.

Several well-known 16th century castles and manors

Several of Skåne’s best known castles and manors were built in the 16th century: Svaneholm is an attractive renaissance castle with a famous inn and an interesting local history museum focusing on Rutger Macklean, an agricultural reformer.

Svaneholms castle. Foto: skane.com©sydpol.com

At the castles/manors of Torup and Trollenäs in south-west Skåne, the parks are open to the public. Torup and Trollenäs are also occasionally open for guided tours. Close to Torup there is an interesting farm labourers’ museum, and Trollenäs also features a café.

Hovdala slott, not far from Hässleholm, has gained new popularity. An interesting guided tour of the old Ehrenborg staterooms is also available. A thriving kitchen garden is open to

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visitors, and the attractive orangery in the park hosts various exhibitions. Concerts, storytelling evenings and many other activities take place throughout the summer.

Wanås is a castle north of Kristianstad that features a magnificent sculpture exhibition in its park. Art lovers from the whole world flock to Wanås to view the latest in contemporary art.

Stylish stately homes and castles, despite wartime

The 17th century, when Skåne finally became Swedish, was dominated by a series of wars between Sweden and Denmark. The town of Kristianstad in the north west of the province was founded to protect Skåne from Swedish attack. Despite troubled times, several beautiful castles and manors were built: Marsvinsholms slott, is a castle close to Ystad that nowadays hosts summertime theatre performances in the park. Sinclairsholm slott is a castle west of Hässleholm, where you can buy fresh asparagus during the season from the baron who has his asparagus crops right beside the castle. The oldest brick church in the Nordic countries, Gumlösa, dating from the late 12th century, is also nearby. Tomarps kungsgård estate in north-west Skåne. Here you can visit the art gallery and café situated in the wonderful old staterooms.

Marsvinsholm castle. Photo: skane.com©sydpol.com

Vrams Gunnarstorps slott, east of Helsingborg is a real gem. It is a stately home built in brick and has a well-known 300-year-old garden. The Christmas market held there is steeped in tradition, and gives visitors the chance to see the estate’s beautiful ’copper kitchen’.

Romance and riches

After the wars with Denmark, the 18th century was peaceful in Skåne. Grand buildings started to be constructed toward the end of the century, often in a romantic rococo style: Christinehofs slott is where the owner, Christina Piper, ran the largest company in the Nordic countries in the 18th century – an alum quarry. The manor is open to the public. Övedskloster is one of Sweden’s most beautiful groups of rococo buildings with attractive avenues and gardens. In the summer the park at this stately home is open for visitors. Castles and mansions dating from the 19th century were built specifically to be grand, without fortifications for defence purposes. Pleasure palaces were must-haves for affluent people.

Häckeberga slott, a manor on an island in its own lake, has branched out into gastronomy,

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as have Kronovall, Snogeholm and Örenäs. Here you can not only eat delicious cuisine, but also enjoy a comfortable stay in the splendid rooms.

Tourism and maintenance

During the 20th century, many castle and manor owners have renovated their properties and given them new areas of use - often in order to finance the expensive maintenance of the buildings. The castles and manors are an important part of Skåne’s history.

Many have become tourist attractions, offering a wealth of activities and experiences. Even though not all castles and manors are open to the public, owners are generally very generous in giving visitors access to the grounds and parks.

Don’t miss Fredriksdal!

There are numerous country houses in Skåne that resemble small manor houses. A fine example well worth visiting is Fredriksdal, Helsingborg’s open-air museum. It features an exquisite garden, a fun summer theatre, cafés, reconstructed home environments and a graphic design museum. An 18th century country estate has developed into a modern recreation centre.

Ove Torgny

Castles and stately homes that have their own websites: www.citadellet.com www.sofiero.helsingborg.se www.tomarps-kungsgard.com www.malmo.se/museer www.svaneholms-slott.se www.bosjokloster.se www.trollenas.com www.backaskogslott.se www.hovdalaslott.com www.sinclairsholm.se www.wanas.se www.christinehof.nu www.raa.se/glimmingehus www.petripumpa.se (Kronovall) www.krapperup.se

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