B&R's The Slow Road Fall 2018 | Issue One by Butterfield & Robinson

The Magazine of Butterfield & Robinson | Inspired. Insightful. In Deep. | Issue 1

UNEXPECTED PERU This Latin American gem is so much more than Machu Picchu | P. 26

Europe's Best Kept Secret?

In an unexpected corner of the Continent, adventure awaits

Full Family Adventure

How to plan the perfect generation-spanning journey

Amazing Asian Hotels Discover the Pacific's best coastal retreats

Upfront / Contents

Contents Dossier Check In | P. 10 Rounding up Asia's most luxe, over-thetop, one-of-a-kind coastal retreats. Notes From the Road | P. 12 How Marrakech transformed from architectural marvel to artistic mecca. B&R Q&A | P. 16 One of Burgundy's premier wine experts reveals his favourite vintages. Remote Luxury | P. 18 At Newfoundland's Fogo Island Inn, remoteness meets refinement. How to Act Like a Local | P. 20 Want to endear yourself to Eastern Europeans? You absolutely have to... What We're Drinking | P. 22 Learn about two incredible locales through two of our favourite libations: Danish akvavit and Rioja's reds. Taste of a Place | P. 24 An inside guide to the diverse and delectable cuisine of Sicily.

The Way Out Holiday Gift Guide | P. 45 We've rounded up a curated selection of gifts that even the adventurer who has everything will love. Where to Buy Directory | P. 48 Ready to hit the (slow) road? Choose a travel expert who can craft a personalized journey just for you. Departure | P. 50 Still think of Mexico as the domain of spring break and all-inclusive resorts? Think again.

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Upfront / Contents & Contributors

Features Off the Beaten Trail in Peru | P. 26 Everyone flocks to Machu Picchu, but as Peru expert Veronika Macas writes, those willing to venture off the beaten trail discover the depths of a country that many visit, but few truly see. A Full Family Adventure | P. 34 How does a family that spans two continents and three generations plan a journey that everyone can enjoy? With a little expert help. Croatia & Slovenia | P. 40 In the shadow of powerhouse destinations Italy and Austria sits a region with all the hallmarks of a world-class hot spot, but almost none of the hype— at least, not yet...

Contributors

Veronika Macas

Tom Abraham

Michele Harvey

Lewis Evans

Adventurous, active and utterly thorough, when not splitting her time between Toronto and Switzerland, Veronika can be found climbing mountains in Peru or glamping in the Galapagos. When we asked her to write a piece revealing Peru's hidden charms (p. 26), her first draft was at least twice as long as we asked for. Like we said: utterly thorough.

Tom Abraham has adventure in his blood. Not only is his sister Marianne a fellow Trip Designer and itinerant globetrotter, but so are his kids! When he set off to research the incredible—and often overlooked—charms of northern Croatia and Slovenia (p. 40), he couldn't go solo; his wife and two kids went with him—and stayed for three full months.

South Africa born and bred, Michele can practically plan an incredible African adventure in her sleep. So when B&R co-founders Martha and George Butterfield asked her to plan a multi-generational journey for their entire family (p. 34), she pulled out all the stops to craft an adventure that would satisfy three generations of savvy travellers.

Lewis can order a coffee in at least five European languages. And while he likes to joke that this often results in his being served a crusty cheese sandwich and pretending it's what he wanted, we nonetheless tasked him with parsing through Eastern Europe's social mores to create a guide that will help you ingratiate yourself to the locals (p. 20).

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Upfront / President's Letter

Inspired. Insightful. In deep.

This magazine is our humble attempt to manifest in print the spirit that animates our trips; to give you a feeling for the texture and nuance and magic that emanates from everything we do.

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More than 420 years after Shakespeare so eloquently answered the question, “What’s in a name?” we found ourselves faced with an admittedly less philosophical (though much more timely) question: What’s in a tagline? And more specifically, what was in ours? The answer, we realized, was not enough. For years we had been using the stalwart “Biking and Walking Since 1966,” which perfectly expressed our company’s deep heritage and pioneering role in creating the active-luxury travel niche. What it didn’t do was… well, much else, really. But as you’ve no doubt realized, we have a specific sensibility: a unique way of experiencing the world on an intimate scale and at a human pace; a passionate commitment to the search for authenticity and meaning; and a belief that life’s adventures should be savoured slowly rather than merely consumed. That’s why, a few years ago, we officially adopted the tagline “Slow Down to See the World,” a true expression of not just what we do, but who we are. And with the launch of this magazine, we’re able to express our identity in even more depth. The Slow Road is our humble attempt to manifest in print the spirit that animates our trips; to give you a feeling for the texture and nuance and magic that emanates from everything we do. It’s also an opportunity to introduce you to some of the colourful personalities who embody this spirit: the talented people who passionately explore the globe in pursuit of inspired and insightful stories that take you in deep. They’ll be the first to tell you that they’re not quite as eloquent as The Bard— but they’re much better travelled. I hope you enjoy meandering through the pages of The Slow Road. Cheers, Norman Howe, President & Publisher norman.howe@butterfield.com

Dossier / Wow

Feel like striking out on your own? The Dolomites are perfect for self-guided adventures.

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Dossier / Wow

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Reach New Heights Delve Into the Dolomites For decades, Florence, Rome, Venice and Amalfi have hogged all the attention, and understandably so. But tucked away in Italy's northernmost point, sandwiched between Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Austria, lies the alpine province of Bolzano, better known for its most famous attraction: the Dolomites. An unspoiled enclave replete with fresh alpine air, soaring peaks and sprawling valleys, the Dolomite mountains are blissfully little-trafficked compared to Italy's heavy hitters—does it still count as a "hidden gem" if the main attraction is an illustrious mountain range?—but just as jaw-dropping, as you can probably tell from this shot. Here you’ll find a harmonious hybrid of cultures, where calming and structured Germanic roots have managed to find common ground with the gregarious and food-oriented Italians, creating a fascinating confluence of cultures that informs everything from the cuisine to the dress code (but don't worry: the lederhosen are optional).

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Dossier / Check In

Asia's Most Incredible Coastal Retreats If there’s anything better than a luxe, one-of-a-kind, over-the-top hotel, it’s a luxe, one-of-a-kind, over-the-top hotel with an ocean view. We challenged our Asia experts to track down the continent's most resplendent coastal hotels, and they came back with a list of stunning shoreside respites that combine incredible views with local charm and lavish luxury.

Four Seasons Nam Hai, Hoi An, Vietnam Situated along the country’s most celebrated beach, Four Seasons Nam Hai offers a tranquil respite from Vietnam’s culturally rich central coast, replete with UNESCO World Heritage sites and cultural marvels. Stunning, private ocean villas allow you to take in the sights and sounds of the sea; the Heart of the Earth spa, built upon a lotus pond, recharges the body.

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Dossier / Check In

Six Senses Yao Noi, Phuket, Thailand

Lamp no Yado Ryokan, Noto Peninsula, Japan

Floating in your private pool and gazing upon the iconic limestone pinnacles of Phang Nga Bay as they emerge from the horizon, you’ll feel serenely separate from the world—and blissfully at peace. Wellness is at the core of everything Six Senses does, and at Yao Noi that means private suites with breathtaking views, handmade mattresses designed for optimal sleep and a blissfully sumptuous spa.

Most coastal properties are perched over a bay; Lamp no Yado has its own. A perfect blend of Japanese tradition and modern luxury, the ryokan opened 430 years ago as a hot spring bath and still features a kimono-clad staff and the Kashikiri bath, Nami no Yu, as its focal point. Sit in an onsen that's stood sentry on the northern coast of the Noto for hundreds of years and watch as water steams up off the bath.

Amankila, East Bali

Aqua Mekong, Mekong River, Indochina

Conceived by architect Ed Tuttle, Amankila literally translates to “peaceful hill,” but that barely scratches the surface of this breathtaking property on Bali’s east coast. Thirty-four free-standing Balinese beach houses sit atop stilts that tower over the trees, each with a private terrace to take in the tranquil view, while recurring motifs reference the ruins of the nearby water palace at Ujung.

Why retreat to the coast when you could retreat along it? Designed by Saigon’s Noor Design and sourced from local, sustainable materials, the Aqua Mekong is a floating five-star retreat that combines the classic aesthetic of the world’s most sophisticated hotels with the ability to experience life along the shores of the Mekong. By day, explore worldfamous landmarks in Siem Reap, Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh.

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Dossier / Notes From the Road

“A visit to Marrakech was a great shock to me,” Yves Saint Laurent said after first visting the city in 1966. “This city taught me colour.”

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Dossier / Notes From the Road

Marrakech the Muse Long an architectural marvel, with the arrival of the YSL Museum and a burgeoning art scene, Marrakech has evolved into an artistic mecca. Pop quiz: which city has had the greatest influence on women’s fashion over the past 50 years? Paris, Milan, New York and London would all be fair guesses, but for our money, the answer is Marrakech. Home to a densely packed medieval medina that emanates colours, scents and creative inspiration, Marrakech played muse to the founding father of modern womenswear for nearly five decades. In the 20th century, few designers had a greater influence on what women wore than the Algerian-born, Paris-trained Yves Saint Laurent, who infused menswear staples like the trench coat and pantsuit with a feminine allure that granted women power while maintaining their femininity—it was Saint Laurent who invented le smoking, and introduced “safari chic” into the lexicon. And no city inspired him more than Marrakech. Each December and June, from 1966 until his retirement from fashion design in 2002, he would flee his home in Paris for Morocco’s cultural capital, where he designed his collections. “A visit to Marrakech was a great

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shock to me,” Saint Laurent said. “This city taught me colour.” Today, the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech stands shrine to the designer’s creative legacy. Having just celebrated its first anniversary, in its inaugural year the museum has refocused the world’s attention on Marrakech’s status as a leading creative hub. In addition to the YSL museum and the famous botanical garden of Jacques Majorelle, a burgeoning art scene—spurred largely by the work of pop artist Hassan Hajjaj, Morocco’s answer to Andy Warhol—has sprung up within the medina, imbuing the old city with a modern vibe and refreshed artistic fervor. We’ve been travelling to Marrakech for decades, and have long admired the intricately patterned textiles, the unique blend of Moorish and French architecture, and the incomparable spirit of the people. But with the new YSL museum re-entrenching the city’s status as a hub of artistic inspiration, our own creative trip-design juices are flowing—and we’ve never felt more inclined to visit.

Dossier / On the Verge

In addition to some spectacular views and incredible hikes, Isalo National Park offers a unique glimpse into the country's geology and famed gemstone industry.

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Dossier / On the Verge

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Wild, Wild Country Marvelling at Madagascar’s Diverse Beauty No island on earth is older than Madagascar—and at this particular moment, none is quite as fascinating, either. An evolutionary and cultural melting pot, the island has always stirred the imagination, thanks in no small part to its almost-unfathomable levels of biodiversity. You'll find a fantastic menagerie of marine life, reptiles, birds and mammals (including more than 100 species of lemur, like the ring-tailed variety pictured here) lurking throughout Madagascar's vast plains and lush rainforests. Socially and economically, a growing stability has opened the country up, allowing for the establishment of new hotel and lodge properties, and (much more importantly) providing us the opportunity to forge local connections on the ground. But from the splendour of the landscapes to the elegance of wild lemurs pirouetting in the tree canopy, above all, Madagascar's draw remains its beauty. – Michele Harvey

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Dossier / B&R Q&A

Did You Know? In 1395 Philippe the Bold, the Duke of Burgundy, declared pinot noir the only red grape variety to be planted in the Côte d’Or.

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Dossier / B&R Q&A

Burgundy's Best Wines One of Burgundy’s premier wine experts explains the region's oenological obsession, and (somewhat reluctantly) reveals his favourite vintages

In idyllic Beaune, the beating heart of Burgundian wine country, everyone is a wine expert. But even in a town as oenologically educated as this, Jean-Pierre Renard’s encyclopedic knowledge of Burgundian vintages stands apart. As a professor of wine appreciation and tasting at the Beaune Centre for Continuing Education, the University of Burgundy and the École des Vins de Bourgogne, Jean-Pierre has been tasting Burgundy wines for four decades—and he loves nothing more than sharing his knowledge (along with a good bottle of Pinot, bien sur). The Slow Road recently cleared our calendar and tapped into Jean-Pierre’s unparallelled insight to learn more about Burgundians’ unique relationship to wine, what makes the region stand out, and—most importantly— which vintages and bottles he most recommends. The Slow Road: You’ve lived and worked in Burgundy for more than 40 years. What sets Burgundy apart? What makes Burgundian pinot noir and chardonnay so distinct from other regions? First and foremost, pinot noir and chardonnay were born in Burgundy. They’re local grapes, perfectly well adapted to the soils and the climate of the region, and they give birth to elegant, subtle, fresh and complex wines. Can you describe the relationship that Burgundians have to wine? For Burgundians, wine is not an ordinary product, it’s a way of life. You share wine with family, with friends. It’s the symbol of life and hospitality. I love the proverb that says: “Beware of water drinkers, they have a secret to hide.” Everyone can enjoy a good bottle of wine, and there’s no need to spend a fortune. (Except, of course, for label drinkers who judge a wine solely on its label.) You can find some excellent Burgundy wines at a decent price.

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What are some of the most commonly held misconceptions about wine? One of the most popular misconceptions is probably to believe that all wines made with the same grape variety should be identical. Each wine has its own characteristics, depending on the type of soil, the parcel [of land], the exposition and the wine-making process (what we call terroir). Burgundy produces thousands of different wines each year, and here, wines take the name of the region, village or plot of land where they come from, rather than the grape. In Burgundy, we don’t drink chardonnay, but Mâcon-Villages, Meursault, Chablis, Montrachet. We don’t drink pinot noir, but Bourgogne rouge, Pommard, Chambolle-Musigny, Corton. Do you have a favourite appellation? Or maybe a favourite vintage? Why not ask a father, “Who is your favourite child?” It’s impossible to say. It depends on the moment, the mood you are in, and very importantly, the friends we are with. (Never forget— wine has to be shared.) With that said, for me personally, the 1947, 1949, 1959, 1969, 1978 and 1985 vintages are fantastic. More recently, 1990, 1999, 2010 and 2015 are superb. For travellers looking to bring a bottle or two back home with them, what would you recommend they pick up? White wine drinkers will be pleased with Meursault 1er cru, Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru or Montrachet Grand Cru. For those who prefer red, Volnay or Chambolle-Musigny 1ers crus make good choices, as do any Grand Cru (Musigny and Richebourg are some of my personal favourites). Merci, Jean-Pierre! Santé!

Dossier / Remote Luxury

Finding the Finer Things at the End of the Earth A tiny speck buoyed off the coast of Newfoundland, itself an island province floating off of Canada’s eastern shore, calling Fogo Island “remote” is like calling Meryl Streep a “decent” actress. A journey to the eponymous Fogo Island Inn feels like you’re detaching yourself from the rest of the world—like you’re not in another place, but on another plain. But don’t let the far-flung locale fool you: the inn perfectly embodies the idea that remoteness and refinement need not be mutually exclusive.

“Fogo Island is such a singular place with such a singular culture. For islanders, the Inn is a vessel to hold our stories. For our guests, it offers a refuge from the madding world, a retreat to the harmonizing magic of the north Atlantic.” –Fogo Island Inn founder Zita Cobb

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Dossier / Remote Luxury

Incredible Cuisine Chef Jonathan Gushue draws from the bounty of the island’s subarctic landscape and the depths of the North Atlantic that surround it to offer dishes rich with ingredients that are fished, farmed and foraged locally; think scallops with parsnips and rhubarb jelly, salt cod and shaved turnip, roasted cabbage and bakeapples. Awesome Architecture Designed by Newfoundland native Todd Saunders, the 43,000 square-foot inn is perched on stilts above the North Atlantic coast, providing all 29 suites with exceptional ocean views. The inn houses a heritage library and contemporary art gallery curated by local artists, in addition to a bar, lounge and spectacular dining room, from which you can watch as chunks of icebergs bob and whales breach offshore through towering floorto-ceiling windows. Exceptional Hospitality The service at the Inn is worldclass, but what truly sets Fogo apart isn't the welcome you get from the staff, but from the locals. As part of the inn’s community host program, fishers, artisans, teachers and craftspeople introduce you to their way of life, offering a rare opportunity to immerse yourself into Fogo’s unique culture and experience the island's lifestyle firsthand.

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Curious Courtesies By Lewis Evans

Dossier / Act Like a Local

How to Blend in from Bohemia to Bavaria A brief guide to avoiding the dreaded foot-in-mouth disease (in the interest of public safety, of course) and ingratiating yourself to the locals in Central Europe The Greeting

In Austria, an upbeat Grüß Gott (meaning “Greet God”) is the way to go. This same expression will pass muster in Bavaria, where a casual servus (“hello”) can also be used, but is most definitely not acceptable in the rest of Germany, where guten morgen/tag/abend (good morning/day/evening) is de rigueur. While in the Czech Republic, focus on the handshake, as this must be strong and not watered down with other gestures. Think two statues crushing hands and you’re on the right track. If you are doing this in someone’s house, let only your eyes glide to your feet to ensure that you remembered to remove your shoes. When in Hungary, first remove your gloves, then engage in a short and firm shake. Whatever you do, do not touch someone’s elbow or pull them in close during the handshake process. Germans don’t engage in superfluous touching either, something that extends to their belongings—no man hugs while giving someone’s 7-series BMW a loving pat on the hood.

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The Meal

In Austria, you may trigger a scandal by not shouting mahlzeit (literally: “meal time”) upon entering a restaurant. Germans prefer a more subdued guten appetit and are mortified to learn that English speakers don’t have a similar expression. But this shortcoming is soon forgiven, and they will happily share space at their table as long as you first ask, Ist hier frei? (This seat taken?) The Czechs have a more relaxed approach, as long as you have a large beer in hand, and, when squeezing through crowded spaces, face the people you are passing rather than turn your back. In Hungary, meals must start with a soup and are frequently interspersed with shots of palinka (fruit brandy). Chicken can be eaten by hand, but don’t even think of raising your fork to your mouth with the rounded side facing up—you will immediately be challenged to a duel, as you will if you bite unbuttered bread instead of ripping it, or begin to eat before everyone in the group has been served. Please, enjoy your meal.

Going for a Drink

In the Czech Republic, the man enters the pub or restaurant first and leaves first—you never know what riffraff you may find lurking in or outside. It is also considered rude to have less than a dozen large beers if you are out with friends. Five dollars should be enough to pay for these. (Boy, do I love the Czech Republic.) If you find yourself sitting under a bell in a German bar, refrain from using it. Ring it and you just bought everyone in earshot a drink. Don’t miss out on the lovely Austrian traditions of the absacker, the very last drink of the evening, or the summer spritzer. For this you pour generous amounts of sparkling water into white wine, then proceed to spend the entire summer slightly buzzed, but never drunk. (I believe they also have this tradition in the Hamptons.) Clinking glasses of beer was banned in Hungary until 1998. Why? Because after the Habsburgs defeated the Hungarian revolution in 1848, they celebrated by raucously cheersing with their beer glasses, prompting a 150-year Hungarian boycott.

National Identities

Austrians are Austrians and most definitely not Germans. The Czechs, meanwhile, live in Central Europe and are nowhere near Eastern Europe—don’t make the mistake of insinuating otherwise. Nationalism in Germany is sort of taboo, and many Germans prefer to identify with their home state or region rather than with Germany. However, this generally goes out the window while cheering on the home team during the World Cup (except, perhaps, during this year’s games against Mexico and South Korea). Until 1918, Hungary was twice its current size. Still a sensitive topic, best avoided by suggesting to your interlocutor that you both have another palinka.

Dossier / What We're Drinking

What We're Drinking We love to learn about a region through its libations, so we tapped writer and wine expert Dick Snyder to introduce you to two very different but equally delectable drinks: Danish akvavit and the reds of Rioja 

Akvavit, Denmark

What It Is Akvavit (a.k.a. aquavit or akevitt) is basically the Scandinavian version of gin—but not quite. It’s a distilled spirit made in a manner similar to gin, but it tastes nothing like it, flavoured principally by caraway, along with botanicals such as dill, fennel, citrus peel, cumin and anise. Akvavit has been produced since the 15thC and is legally required to have a minimum 37.5% alcohol. Its taste can vary from delicate to complex spice and faint citrus, and the colour may range from clear to yellowish to light brown. Clear akvavit is called taffel. Where it Comes From This delicious aperitif is Scandinavia’s contribution to the world of spirits. Danes and Swedes make theirs out of wheat or barley; it is not traditionally aged and is usually clear. Norwegians, on the other hand, opt for a distillate based on the humble potato, and are known to age their akvavit in previously used oak sherry casks. When/How to Drink It In Scandinavia, akvavit is traditionally enjoyed at social gatherings and festivities like Christmas and weddings. You drink it at the beginning of a cocktail party and throughout appetizers to excite the palate and help digestion.

Usually served very cold and sipped from shot glasses, Swedes and Finns traditionally pair it with crayfish parties in late summer. Short on crayfish? Opt for Scandinavian dishes like gravlax, smoked fish and pickled herring, along with rye bread, pungent cured meats and pickles. Aged versions from Norway may be served at room temperature in tulip-shaped glasses. Why We Love It What’s not to love? For one thing, it can be hard to find outside of Europe, so it’s an exciting change of pace to enjoy before dinner with your salty snacks. And since drinking from a shot glass is generally frowned upon after college, here’s a built-in excuse to get a little wild. There’s really no other spirit like it, so it’s fun to pull a bottle out of the freezer and show off to your friends that your palate extends beyond the usual beer, wine and whisky. Did You Know? In recent years, modern microdistillers are jumping on the akvavit tradition and making their own localized versions of the spirit. The Newfoundland Distillery Co. makes it with locally produced barley, honey, peat, juniper and herbs.

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Dossier / What We're Drinking

Rioja Wine, Spain  What It Is Not a grape, or even a style of wine, Rioja is a region of Northern Spain, called La Rioja by the locals. Today, the wines are riding a wave of popularity, in part because they represent considerable value. Quality in the region has gone up, and the styles of wine reflect this—from traditional to contemporary. An influx of French winemakers in the late 1860s— who fled the vine-killing phylloxera epidemic that decimated France—influenced the local style. Under the French, most of whom were Bordelais, the wines were made to be aged and to exhibit the spice-and-smoke influences of oak barrels. Across the board, these wines are delicious, rich and spicy, with distinct vanilla-coconut and violet tones. Older Gran Reservas are outstanding food wines while young Jovens and Crianzas are perfect patio sippers. They’re pretty much all red, made predominantly from the Tempranillo grape. Some white Riojas do exist, but are harder to find. Where It Comes From Three distinct regions contribute to Rioja wines: Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta and Rioja Baja. Though many wines are a blend of grapes from all three areas, you will find bottles labeled with specific origin as well. Very generally, it’s said that Alta makes wines of higher quality and in an old world style, while Alavesa produces wines with more body. Baja enjoys the influence of the Mediterranean, and the wines are often higher in alcohol and deeply coloured. Where, When and How to Drink It Wines from Rioja are remarkably distinct. Tempranillo is a spicy grape with red and black berry fruit, floral tones, and bright acidity—flavours that combine well with the influence of oak and ageing. Basic-level Rioja might see little to no aging. A crianza wine will have one year in oak, and have a barely distinguishable hint of spice and smoke. From there, it’s all about ageing and oak influence, with Reserva (one year in oak and two in bottle) and cellar-worthy Gran Reserva (two years in oak and three in bottle, only produced in the best vintages) among the most formidable of the world’s full-bodied and expressive wines. These wines are perfect for big meaty dishes like lamb (a local specialty) or holiday dinners and roasts. They’re warming wines for chilly evenings, when your home is full of friends and the table is full of delicious things.

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Dossier / Taste of a Place

How to Savour Like a Sicilian Resting just off the toe of Italy’s boot, Sicily's flavours are unmistakably Italian, but over the centuries they’ve acquired Greek, Spanish, French and Arabic influences, resulting in a cuisine that's as diverse as it is delectable. From sweet cannoli to hyperlocal cheeses, twirl your fork around a few of our favourites!

Arancini | Literally translating to “little oranges,” these fried, stuffed rice croquettes pack a big punch. Savoury and satisfying, you’ll usually find them filled with ragù, mozzarella, or peas, but other variants include a side of butter or bechamel sauce, or fillings of mushrooms, pistachios or eggplant.

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Dossier / Taste of a Place

Ragusano cheese | Rarely found outside its hometown of Ragusa, this must-try cow’s milk truly reflects the local terroir. With nutty notes of buttery straw, crusty bread, fresh mushrooms and honey, it’s made exclusively from the milk of local Modicana cows raised on fresh grass or hay.

Parmigiana di melanzane | We have Sicily to thank for this cucina povera classic, also known as eggplant parmigiana. Simple and hearty, fried eggplant slices are layered with tomato sauce and cheese, then baked. (The complicated part? Naples and Parma also stake a claim to inventing it.)

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Farsu magru | “Sicilian meatloaf” arrived on the island by way of the Angevins in the 13th century. A thinly pounded sheet of veal is filled with a stuffing of bread, ham, cheese, onions and herbs, with boiled eggs in the centre, finished with an outer layer of bacon slices and topped with red sauce.

Cannoli | Hailing from Palermo and Messina, cannoli (which is the plural term, the singular of which is “cannolo”) were historically served as a sweet treat during Carnevale. But as mere mortals, medieval Sicilians couldn’t resist the urge to indulge year-round, and it soon became a staple of Sicilian cuisine.

Arequipa's architectural wonders, including the incredible colour of the Santa Catalina de Siena Monastery, make it well worth the journey.

OFF

THE BEATEN TRAIL Everyone flocks to the Lost City (and with good reason), but as B&Râ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Peru expert Veronika Macas explains, this country is so much more than Machu Picchu. Find out why this is the perfect place to ditch the guidebook and discover the depths of a country that many visit, but few truly see.

ompared to magazine writers, filmmakers have it easy. Yes, I realize how biased that probably sounds. But let me explain. In order to properly capture a region’s essence, writers have to suffer. We toil away in front of our keyboards, desperately clamouring for the right combination of words to describe not just what a place looks like, but how it feels—its vibe, its milieu, its ineffable je ne sais quoi. (To wit: I scoured the thesaurus for 20 minutes before settling on “milieu.”) Filmmakers, on the other hand, know no such struggles. In order to inform the audience they’re in Paris, Rome, New York or Sydney, all they need to do is drop in a quick establishing shot of the Eiffel Tower, Coliseum, Statue of Liberty or Opera House, respectively. Landmarks of this calibre are so famously unmistakable, they come to not just identify a place, but emblematize it. For more than a century now, Machu Picchu has been just such an icon. Since Hiram Bingham’s first fateful trip to the Incan site in 1911 —and especially after the publishing of his 1948 memoir The Lost City of the Inca, which propelled his journey into the popular consciousness—Machu Picchu has been Peru’s most visited attraction. At its peak, Machu Picchu attracted more than one million tourists each year. Even with restrictions encouraged by UNESCO and imposed by the Peruvian government, upwards of 900,000 still visit annually, taking the Hiram Bingham Train from Cusco to stare at the sun gate, or hike the nearby (and nearly as famous) Inca Trail. And to be fair, Machu Picchu’s appeal is obvious—I don’t think I’ve ever had an experience as transcendent as seeing it at sundown, after all the tourists had cleared out. (Working for B&R has its perks.) But I sometimes pity those who hop a flight out of the country as soon as they’ve checked the spectacle off of their bucket list. I’ve spent a decade globetrotting for both work and pleasure, and I’ve found few countries that boast as wide a breadth of natural wonders, or as rich a reservoir of cultural heritage. That so few people take the time to savour all that Peru has to offer is one of travel’s greatest travesties— and one that I'm determined to correct. With all due respect to The Lost City, I think it’s high time that people found out about Peru’s myriad other unforgettable adventures. There are enough off-the-grid, little known and overlooked experiences here to fill an entire magazine, but I think my editor would kill me if I took up that much space. (Editor’s Note: That’s true.) So in the interest of brevity, here are five of my absolute favourite parts of Peru that most people never get to experience.

"I’ve found few countries that boast as wide a breadth of natural wonders, or as rich a reservoir of cultural heritage."

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Clockwise from top left: No trip to Peru is complete without a Pisco sour; Colca Canyon offers exceptional hiking (and mercifully few tourists); a suspension bridge soars above the Amazonian rain forest in Tambopata National Reserve; Peru's reputation as a culinary hub precedes it (fresh scallops, anyone?)

The Amazon

When was the last time you fished for piranhas and swam with pink dolphins? That's what I thought. The Peruvian Amazon is a treasure that's somehow remained hidden from the vast majority of the travel industry. The lush natural rainforest plays host to a slew of incredible creatures, from alligators and anacondas to jaguars and spider monkeys, and even its human inhabitants have embraced the idea of being off the gridâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the region's main urban hub is Iquitos, the biggest city in the world that you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t actually drive to. The best way to experience it is to quite literally go with the flow by floating down the Amazon River. Using a luxe cruise ship like the Aria Amazon

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as your home base, you can take skiffs that venture deeper into the heart of the jungle for wildlife viewing, and dock in remote villages to meet the locals and explore on foot. Opportunities for water-based adventure abound, including kayaking, canoeing and swimming in the Amazon River by day. By night, you can break out a telescope and gawk as constellations come to life in the skies of the Southern Hemisphere.

The Sacred Valley

Peru Amazon River Trujillo Lima Sacred Valley Arequipa

The aptly named Sacred Valley is a visually stunning, incredibly rich playground for adventure. Some of the best hiking trails in the world intersect the valley, passing through ancient ruins,

Opposite page: Escaping the main tourist destinations allows you to experience life as Peruvians live it. This page: Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no better way to float down the Amazon River than on the stunning Aria Amazon.

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agricultural enclaves and sweeping valleys, all of it lined by the Andes mountains. Here you can truly disconnect and commune with the natural world; hiking through the valley feels like stepping back into a simpler, more peaceful era, in which people had a deeper connection to the earth. And speaking of people, the few you encounter along the way are locals who still live off the land the way their ancestors have for generations. Though they have every right to be protective of the natural beauty on which they live and work, they're incredibly welcoming. On one hike, our group passed by a local woman who kindly offered us fresh, hot potatoes from her huatia (a sort of underground earth oven, shaped like a pyramid). But the Sacred Valley isn't solely for serenity—adrenaline junkies will find plenty of adventures, too. Mountain bikers flock to this part of Peru, and those who prefer four wheels to two can take it all in on ATVs, while those who prefer four legs to four wheels can ride horseback on gorgeous Peruvian paso horses. Want to get on the water? Kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding and white water rafting are all on offer here. And if you're looking for a little elevation, you can rock-climb up a mountain side and zipline back down, or paraglide above to explore it from the perspective of the Incan gods.

Clockwise from top left: Peruvian locals are unfailingly friendly and colourful (sometimes literally); catching waves at Huanchaco Beach; the coastal views of Miraflores in Lima

Arequipa & Colca Canyon

Your Instagram feed will love Arequipa. A colonial-era gem awash in white buildings made from hand-cut sillar stone, Arequipa is a gorgeous city in an even more stunning setting. Three volcanoes frame the city, towering (safely) in the distance and providing the city with some stunning views, which few visitors to Peru ever get to drink in. But there's much more to take in than the views—the food scene in Arequipa is incredible. A historical trade hub that connected Cusco and Lake Titicaca with countries such as Bolivia and Chile, Arequipa has evolved into a melting pot where a mix of cultures, flavours, ingredients and spices come together in the local picanterias (lunch spots), creating a unique culinary experience. You've got to try some rocoto relleno, Peru's version of a stuffed pepper, and chupe de camarones, a shrimp chowder. Then you can wash it all down with chicha morada, a delicious drink made from purple Peruvian corn. (Of course, no one will blame you for ordering a Pisco sour, either!) Culture and history abound in Arequipa too, including the Santa Catalina Monastery, an architectural stunner that recounts the scandalous tenure of the nuns who once lived there, and Juanita, a mummy discovered when a glacier melted to reveal her tomb. As if the city itself weren’t enough of a draw, Arequipa provides a gateway to the stunning Colca Canyon, whose terraced valleys are even less trafficked than those in the Sacred Valley, despite the fact that some points of Colca reach greater depths than the Grand Canyon. With excellent river rafting, adventure junkies will again

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find plenty to love, while both the hiking and the horseback riding here is incredible, offering postcard-perfect views at every turn.

Trujillo and the North

Few people realize that the best archaeology experience in Peru has nothing to do with Machu Picchu. Best known as the home of Peru's traditional marinera dance, Trujillo is a coastal town in northwestern Peru that not only boasts beautiful and colourful colonial architecture, but acts as a gateway to pre-Incan archaeological sites that bring ancient history to life. Nearby marvels include the Huaca de la Luna ("the moon temple"), one of the most important spiritual sites for the Moche culture, who populated the area from 100 to 700 AD, and El Brujo, the temples of which are adorned with polychrome reliefs depicting wars, gods and an ancient way of life. But the best part is what—or maybe I should say who— isn't there. Because so many people forego Trujillo, savvy travellers are treated to a raw and relatively tourist-free experience that puts them directly in touch with the city's heritage—sometimes literally, in fact. With so few tourists, there’s little need for ropes and barriers, meaning there's nothing stopping you from reaching out to literally touch ancient history.

Lima

Often overlooked or skipped by those flocking to Machu Picchu and Cusco, Lima is arguably the culinary capital of the world right now, boasting three coveted spots on the list of The World's 50 Best Restaurants. Lima's restaurant scene has garnered a ton of attention from the press, but few editorials (and, thankfully, not many tourists) seem to appreciate just how cool the rest of the city is. Perched on the coast of the Pacific, the city offers sea, surf, sand and some incredible ocean views. Farther inland, Lima's myriad unique neighbourhoods make it the perfect place to meander on foot. In posh Miraflores, upscale shops, stunning sea views and great restaurants are complemented by huacas, the pre-Incan ruins scattered throughout the neighbourhood, which add a bit of culture to all that class. In boho-chic Barranco, boutique shops and local artists dot a unique and colourful neighbourhood just begging to be snapped for social media. And in the city centre, fabulous architecture denotes the legacy of the conquistadors who once reigned over the city. Be sure to check out Aliaga House, the oldest Colonial mansion in Lima, where consecutive generations of the Aliaga family have lived since the land was first granted to Jerónimo de Aliaga in 1535!

Veronika Macas is a B&R Trip Designer specializing in Peru, Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands (and an absolute fiend for Pisco sours). Connect with Veronika: veronika@theslowroad.com

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How Grandma and Grandpa Grabbed the Trip by The Horn(s) How does a family that spans two continents and three generations plan a journey that everyone can enjoy? With careful planning, some expert help, and a close encounter with an endangered speciesâ&#x20AC;Ś

By Michele Harvey

hinoceroses are incredible creatures to see up close. For one thing, they’re critically endangered—conservationists estimate that the black rhino population decreased by a whopping 96% between 1970 and 1995—making an in-person sighting all too rare. For another, they’re enormous: 13 feet long, six feet tall, and weighing in somewhere around 4,000 pounds. And then, of course, there’s the horn, a pointed protrusion of rock-hard keratin, measuring anywhere between 20 inches to three feet in length, designed by evolution to help rhinos break through whatever needs breaking: thick branches; solid ground; a predator’s bones. All of which is to say that although rhinos are herbivores, you could be forgiven for feeling a little intimidated in their presence. “We were in awe,” says George Butterfield. B&R’s intrepid co-founders George and Martha found themselves face to face with rhinos last year when they took their family—their son David and his wife Juliette, their daughter Nathalie and her husband Niall, and all eight of their grandchildren—on a trip to southern Africa, where they could not only be together, but share an adventure that would leave the typical “family vacation” in its dust. Revelling in the rhinos’ imposing presence in Matobo National Park, they kept a respectful distance as they marvelled at the majestic creatures. Well, most of them kept their distance. “We’re standing there in awe, and little Ellie wants to run up and pat the rhino!” George says with a smile as he recalls the reaction of his fearless 7-year-old granddaughter. “And we’re restraining her and telling her, ‘This is a wild animal, you must stay away!’ She wasn’t scared at all. She was thrilled!” Juggling everyone’s schedules, preferences and interests can make family vacations tricky to plan, even for a family of three—and especially for a family that spans three generations. But with open minds and a little creativity, the format can easily be turned into an adventure that thrills family members of all ages. “We wanted to do something really special and unique,” Martha says of the Butterfields’ African adventure, which included stops in Zimbabwe, Mozambique and South Africa. “We wanted to give [the whole family] an experience they would remember, that would be eye-opening for the grandkids but also a ton of fun.” As the founders of an award-winning travel company, the Butterfields naturally looked pretty far afield for a destination that would elucidate both their young grandchildren and their

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well travelled adult children. For their family, Africa was a natural choice. But you don’t need to pore over maps or scour the globe in search of the perfect locale for a full-family adventure (see "3 Awesome Locales for Multi-Generational Trips" on the next page). Instead, planning the perfect trip for all ages is as easy as picking up the phone: tour operators are increasingly crafting multi-generational trips designed to enchant any traveller, whether they’re young, or just young at heart. “We’ve been planning multi-generational trips for decades now,” says Brad Crockett, Director of Africa & Asia-Pacific at Butterfield & Robinson. “We get a lot of people saying they want to do something with the whole family, but getting everyone’s schedules to line up is hard enough, nevermind finding something that pleases everyone. So we tell travellers that if they can do the first part, we’ll handle the second.” Even after a lifetime spent helping people slow down to see the world— and doing plenty of globe-trotting themselves—they found that when it came time to plan a trip all 14 members of their family could enjoy, they needed help. “We had done some smaller family trips in Europe and North America, but we were only able to take a few grandkids at a time,” Martha says. “When we finally found a window where we knew the whole family was available, we thought we better get some expert help.”

“We wanted a trip that would be really special and unique.”

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3 Awesome Locales for Multi-Generational Trips: 1. COSTA RICA The jewel of Central America sparkles for the whole family. Gawk at the country’s natural splendour, from the magnificence of Rincon de la Vieja Volcano National Park and the sprawling landscapes of tropical jungle, to the rich and (literally) colourful locals, like toucans, monkeys, manikins and butterflies. Adventure seekers will be in heaven as they ride ATVs and horses, snorkel and surf on San Juanillo Beach and fly through the forest on ziplines.

2. PROVENCE Provence is an obvious choice for mom, dad, grandma and grandpa: the picturesque hills, sumptuous food, delectable wine and languid pace of the south of France are rightfully legendary. But this region is full of surprises, too, not the least of which is how many adventures await for travellers who aren’t quite old enough to enjoy a glass of grenache: from ropes courses and kayaking to pottery, painting and kid-friendly cooking classes (this is France, after all).

3. VANCOUVER ISLAND Whether you and your brood prefer a trek or a treat, you’ll find something for everyone on Canada’s westernmost coast. Want to ride? We’ve found the best bike paths through the British Columbia backcountry. Feel like slowing down? Why not float along the river on self-built driftwood rafts? Getting peckish? We know a perfect spot to eat sushi next to crashing surf. No matter what you’re looking for, Vancouver Island offers incredible adventures.

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That’s where I came in. As B&R’s resident African Trip Designer, I’ve planned dozens of family excursions that run the gamut from exhilarating eco-lodges to luxe private wine tastings—sometimes on the same trip! When I heard the Butterfields were looking for an African adventure for the whole family, I knew exactly how to design something everyone would remember. I knew Martha and George had been to Africa before, so I made sure to craft an itinerary that would excite seasoned travellers and youthful first-timers in equal measure. The opportunity to combine world wonders like Victoria Falls and the UNESCO-protected Matobo Hills with more personal experiences like family dinners and downtime at the stunning Somalisa Camp (pictured at left) was a combination they couldn’t resist. Of course, for all my careful planning and Africa’s natural splendour, the trip’s real pleasures had nothing to do with wanderlust. “The big thing is just getting together,” Martha says, especially since the family is fanned out across two continents—David, Juliette and their kids live in Burgundy, while Nathalie, Niall and their family are based in Toronto. “It was a wonderful opportunity for the cousins to get together and scream and hoot and holler and play around,” George says. As it turns out, the kids felt the same—and they wanted to show their appreciation. George and Martha had given each one a small bit of walking-around money that they could use on-trip. But the kids had another idea. “The kids decided to pool their money and buy a piece of art for their grandparents from the Somalisa store,” George and Martha’s son David explains. Granddaughter Nina and grandson George made the presentation in front of the whole family, bestowing their grandparents with a one-foot tall beaded sculpture to thank them for the experience. “It was just an incredible presentation of love and affection for us and how much fun the cousins were all having together,” George says, the surprise still present in his voice months after the trip. “It was a very, very special moment.”

Michele Harvey was B&R's first-ever guide in South Africa, before becoming a Trip Designer and B&R's resident Africa expert. Connect with Michele: michele@theslowroad.com

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CROATIA & SLOVENIA The Overlooked, Over-the-Top Awesomeness of

In the shadow of powerhouse destinations Italy and Austria sits a region with all the hallmarks of a world-class hot spot, but almost none of the hypeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;at least, not yet By Tom Abraham

Opposite page: Slovenia’s Bled Castle sits perched atop the city of Bled, at the southern foot of the Karawanks mountain range. This page: UNESCO refers to the Škocjan Caves, a World Heritage Site, with just three words: “Outstanding Universal Value.” And they might be underselling it.

should have worn a fedora. As I delved deeper into Slovenia’s Škocjan Caves, humbly admiring the ominous-looking stalactites dangling 500 feet above my head, I felt exactly like Indiana Jones in search of the Lost Ark—minus Harrison Ford’s good looks, leather jacket, and of course, iconic headwear. Stifling the urge to crack a bullwhip, I followed him deeper into one of the world’s largest networks of interconnected underground tunnels, phenomenal not just in its scope, but in its raw, breathtaking beauty. A World Heritage Site, UNESCO only has one headline on its website for the caves: “Outstanding Universal Value.” It took us about two hours to walk through the six kilometres (four miles) of limestone tunnels that run beneath Slovenia’s Karst region, near the southwest border with Italy, mostly because I insisted we stop every minute or two to marvel at the height of the caverns, the depths of the Reka river below us, the towering stalagmites and the waterfalls— did I mention there are waterfalls? I’ve been lucky enough to traverse this planet from British

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Columbia to Bhutan and back again many times over, but even I was blown away by the spectacle. In particular, I was struck by the realization that something so big, so immense, had been hiding right under my feet. You could easily stand directly above the caves and have no idea they even exist, never mind the fact that they look like an action-adventure movie come to life. I couldn’t help but think about what a perfect microcosm the caves are for the corner of Europe they tunnel under. I’ve been designing trips in central and eastern Europe for years, long enough to see Dubrovnik and the Dalmatian Coast become some of the continent’s most sought-after locales. And while I still recommend seeing the country’s stunning south, I was determined to find a way to experience Croatia without the crowds. My search led me north into the country’s much less visited Istria region, and across the border into Slovenia, where I realized that UNESCO’s headline is spot-on, but its focus too narrow. Some of the best food, wine, activities and adventures in all of Europe can be found in the former Yugoslavia, By Johnwhere Doe

few think to look, and even fewer visit. But as I discovered, those who do quickly come to understand that the “Outstanding Universal Value” isn’t hidden underground—it’s present nearly everywhere you look. Uncommon Warmth and Incredible Splendour One of the first things I noticed about the region was the welcoming sort of warmth I got from the people, which you don’t necessarily experience in regions more accustomed to the hustled coming and going of tourists. When you go to markets, shops and restaurants here, people have time for conversation and they’re genuinely interested in you, in where you’re from. Their kindliness immediately put me at ease, despite the fact that my language skills were limited to a few key menu items. By welcoming me into the fold so graciously, they made me feel like the region’s vast, natural splendour existed as much for me as for them. And splendour is the operative word. Geographically, this region astounds. Slovenia feels enormous and imposing, all limestone crags, open fields and dramatic scenery. In Istria,

it’s the diversity that stands out most. You can stand on the shore, slathered in sunscreen and full beach regalia, and bask in the warmth of the sun, all while looking at the snowcapped mountains that you’ll be skiing a day or two later. I arrived in winter and stayed until spring, long enough to see Slovenia transform into a veritable playground, replete with rafting, kayaking, ziplining, camping, swimming, snorkelling, fly fishing, hiking and biking. (Istria is perhaps a little less adventure-inclined, though the biking and hiking are both world-class.) In the winter, skiing becomes the main attraction, particularly in the Julian Alps, which play host to some of the best alpine and nordic skiing in the world. I had only been in Kranjska Gora for a few days when the Nordic Junior World Cup came through town in mid-February, setting up a sprint race through the middle of town. We managed to talk my ski-obsessed daughter, who was with me on the trip, into racing (and as a proud father, I’d be remiss not to mention that she placed second overall). But the real thrill of the experience was the opportunity to share in the passions of the

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Opposite page: Croatia’s Plitvice Lakes National Park. This page: fresh Croatian cuisine and the charming baroque town of Varazdin.

Urban Exploration: 4 Must-See Cities In (and Around) Croatia & Slovenia

1. Ljubljana Slovenia's delightful riverside capital is one of Europe's hippest and most charming small cities. Take in Tivoli Park and the expansive green space, stroll the eminently walkable streets to work up an appetite, then enjoy dinner in the stunning Ljubljana Castle complex, which offers gorgeous views from its perch above town.

2. Zagreb With a history dating back to Roman times, Croatia's capital is an architectural wonder, replete with Austro-Hungarian edifices, the Gothic Zagreb Cathedral and the colourful tiles on the roof of St. Mark's Church. After all that architecture, rest and refuel at the outdoor cafes along pedestrian-friendly Tkalčićeva Street.

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3. Trieste This port city in Italy's northeast is only a short hop from Istria and Slovenia, and well worth the journey. A confluence of Italian, Austro-Hungarian and Slovenian influences lend Trieste a vaguely Eastern European atmosphere, as do its gorgeous sea views, interesting architecture and casual-but-charming cafes and pubs.

4. Podgorica Montenegro's capital fascinatingly combines old and new. While not much of the old remains thanks to WWII bombing (a Turkish clock tower in the old town nods to the city's Ottoman past) the city has rebuilt itself into something of an anomaly: an ancient European capital with a modern edge, and a laidback Mediterranean atmosphere.

local people, who came to introduce themselves and welcome us into their world. The whole experience served as a perfect example of the way activities can bridge language and cultural gaps, allowing foreigners to build a familiarity and intimacy with their local hosts that couldn’t be established just by touring through town and going back to the hotel each night. Familiar Food, Phenomenal Chefs What sets Slovenian cuisine apart isn’t that the ingredients are particularly novel or unique—it’s that despite their commonality, they taste incredible. While this is true throughout the country, nowhere is it more evident than in tiny Kobarid (population 1,090), and more specifically in the kitchen of Hisa Franko, headed by chef Ana Roš. Roš has rightfully earned accolades for turning her in-laws’ small family restaurant into an international sensation, and was named the best female chef in the world by members of The World's 50 Best Restaurants academy (the smartest of whom don’t bother with the qualifier “female”). Her innovative spin on traditional Slovenian recipes deserves all the accolades it's received, but I had amazing culinary experiences throughout the country. Hearty pork and beef dishes abound, often followed by vanilla ice cream awash in Slovenia’s signature pumpkin seed oil, which adds an intensely nutty taste. Italian Influence, Meet Istria’s Abundance Across the Slovenian border in the northern Croatian province of Istria, meanwhile, the food is simply incredible, thanks in no small part to the longstanding influence of

their Italian neighbours, who are just a stone's throw away across the Gulf of Trieste. The region used to serve as the breadbasket to Venice thanks to the railway running from Poreč straight through Trieste, and much of what the Italians loved about the food can still be seen and tasted there today: the olive oil has been ranked among the best in the world by the Flos Olei, the international extra virgin olive oil guide; the truffle forests are productive and much sought after; the fish is excellent; the lamb and other meats superb. We feasted our way across northern Croatia and, if it weren’t for the language being spoken by the restaurant staff, could have easily mistaken it for Veneto. Excellent wine abounds across both regions too. Slovenia’s major wine region, Brda, borders Italy and produces splendid sparkling wines, excellent reds and even stronger whites. In Istria you find the delectable malvazija varietal in white and the terans in red, both of which are native to the region and rarely found outside of it, making the oenological experience both exceptional and unique. All in all, the culinary experience was easily on par with (and at some meals, undoubtedly better than) powerhouses like France, Spain and Italy, but with far less fanfare. Which is exactly what I had come to expect from a region that has all the hallmarks of a world class travel destination, but none of the hype. Well, almost none of the hype.

Tom Abraham has planned (and participated in) adventures in nearly every corner of the globe. Connect with Tom: tom@theslowroad.com

Istria offers both beauty and diversity. Visit charming towns like Rovinj (left), or hit the beach and bask in the sun.

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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

Gifts for The

Adventurer

With the holidays around the corner, we asked our expert trip designers for gift ideas that are (almost) as unique as the journeys they devise. First up, a curated gift list for the adventurer who has everything.

1. Marmot Daypack, marmot.com; 2. GoTenna Off Grid Communications Service, gotenna.com; 3. Vintner's Daughter Active Botanical Serum, vintnersdaughter.com; 4. Arcteryx Beta SL Jacket, arcteryx.com; 5. Brunello Cucinelli Hiking Boots, shop.brunellocucinelli.com; 6. Kindle Oasis Ereader, amazon.com; 7. Nikon Monarch Binoculars, nikonsportoptics.com

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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

Gifts for The

Foodie

The best way to explore a culture is through its cuisine. But if you're anything like us, your passion for good food doesn't disappear when you get homeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and with these culinary appliances and accessories, it doesn't have to.

1 2

1. Cocktail Travel Kit, food52.com; 2. Berti Cheese Knives, match1995.com; 3. Modernist Cuisine, amazon.com; 4. Truffle Making Kit, uncommongoods.com; 5. Fidgi Olive Wood Mill, peugeot-saveurs.com; 6. Gaggia Brera Super, gaggia.com

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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

Gifts for The

Photographer

Good trips make for interesting shots. Great trips offer fine photography. B&R trips include incredible, mindblowing "I-never-ever-ever-want-to-forget-this" moments. And armed with gadgets like these, you never will.

5 1. Portrait Lens for iPhone, shopmoment.com; 2. Fujifilm Instax Mini Camera, fujifilm.com; 3. Magic Pro 2 Drone, dji.com; 4. MeFoto Tripod, mefotto.com; 5. Camera Mode Dial Cufflinks, cufflinks.com; 6. Calendar Box Set; artifactuprising.com 7. Lo and Sons Camera Bag, loandsons.com

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The Way Out / Where to Buy Guide

AFRICA & MIDDLE EAST Christine Tucker Kenya, Rwanda, Seychelles, Tanzania, Uganda christine@theslowroad.com Michele Harvey Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, Zambia, Zimbabwe michele@theslowroad.com Orsolya Kako Morocco orsolya@theslowroad.com Brad Crockett Regional Director brad@theslowroad.com

ASIA PACIFIC Annalise Andrews Australia analise@theslowroad.com Chris Litt China, Mongolia chris.litt@theslowroad.com Karen Macrae Bali, Borneo, Bhutan, India, Nepal, Thailand, Myanmar karen@theslowroad.com



Where to Buy Guide Ready for adventure? Not sure who to talk to? Choose a region that’s piqued your interest below, then pick one of our expert Trip Designers to start crafting a trip made just for you. Think of them as travel’s answer to haute couture fashion designers: Savile Row meets Savoir Faire. Margiela meets Magellan. And your dreams meet reality.

Orsolya Kako Japan orsolya@theslowroad.com Nathan Lane Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Sri Lanka nathan@theslowroad.com Rob Grieve Australia, New Zealand rob@theslowroad.com Steve Wilson India steve@theslowroad.com Brad Crockett Regional Director brad@theslowroad.com

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The Way Out / Masthead

FRANCE Annik Boulva Brittany, Normandy annik@theslowroad.com Dana Quinn Provence dana@theslowroad.com JĂŠrome BorĂŠ Alsace, Bordeaux, Champagne, Dordogne, Loire jerome@theslowroad.com Marya Valli Corsica marya@theslowroad.com Kathy Stewart Regional Director kathy@theslowroad.com

ITALY Christina Cain Basilicata, Puglia christina@theslowroad.com

Lewis Evans Camino de Santiago, Costa Brava lewis@theslowroad.com

Marianne Abraham British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Alaska, Hawaii marianne@theslowroad.com

Oscar Biedma Portugal, Spain oscar@theslowroad.com

Jonathan Lansdell Regional Director jonathan@theslowroad.com

Kathy Stewart Regional Director kathy@theslowroad.com

EUROPE

LATIN AMERICA Amanda Gary Argentina, Patagonia, Uruguay amanda@theslowroad.com Anna Ines Figaro NW Argentina, Bolivia anna@theslowroad.com Dale Sherrow Costa Rica, Mexico dale@theslowroad.com

Courtney Mundy Amalfi, Tuscany, Umbria courtney@theslowroad.com

Stephanie Gulledge Brazil, Chile, Colombia stephanie@theslowroad.com

Dana Quinn Cinque Terre, Italian Lakes, Sicily dana@theslowroad.com

Steve Wilson Argentina, Costa Rica steve@theslowroad.com

Georgia Yuill Dolomites, Sardinia, Veneto georgia@theslowroad.com

Veronika Macas Ecuador, Galapagos, Peru veronika@theslowroad.com

Marya Valli Piemonte marya@theslowroad.com Chris Mark Regional Director chris.mark@theslowroad.com

SPAIN & PORTUGAL Christine Tucker Andalucia, Basque Country, Mallorca christine@theslowroad.com

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Brad Crockett Regional Director brad@theslowroad.com

NORTH AMERICA Annik Boulva Arizona, California, Utah annik@theslowroad.com Dane Tredway Newfoundland, Quebec dane@theslowroad.com

Annik Boulva Holland annik@theslowroad.com Dane Tredway England, Ireland, Scotland dane@theslowroad.com Gabriella Brundu Norway gabriella@theslowroad.com Lewis Evans Germany, Hungary, Austria lewis@theslowroad.com Marya Valli Denmark, Sweden, Switzerland marya@theslowroad.com Orsolya Kako Iceland orsolya@theslowroad.com Tom Abraham Croatia, Greece, Romania, Slovenia, Bulgaria tom@theslowroad.com Kathy Stewart Regional Director, Western Europe kathy@theslowroad.com Chris Mark Regional Director, Central & Eastern Europe chris.mark@theslowroad.com Get in Touch Start planning your dream trip: butterfield.com 1.866.551.9090

President and Publisher Norman Howe

EDITORIAL Editorial Director Trish Kaliciak Managing Editor Dave Bowden Contributing Editor Charmaine Pang Copy Editor Clare Gibbons Contributors Veronika Macas, Michele Harvey, Tom Abraham, Lewis Evans Dick Snyder

ART Artistic Direction Key Gordon Communications Creative Director Grant Gordon Senior Art Directors Joe Gorecki and Jordan Puopolo Contributing Photographers Juliette Butterfield, Phil Haemmerle, Sarah Kerr

ADVERTISING Director of Business Development Yannick Pichler For inquiries, please contact: yannick.pichler@butterfield.com Direct: 416.864.2022 Toll-free: 800.678.1147 x222

The Way Out / Departure

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Viva La Mexico! Now’s the time to see this vibrant country anew If you still think of Mexico as the exclusive domain of spring break, all-inclusive resorts and tequila shots, think again. A vibrant arts scene in Guadalajara, drool-worthy cuisine from bustling Mexico City to colonial Oaxaca, and an influx of achingly beautiful hotels has piqued our interest. That all this has arisen in a country long rich with Mesoamerican legends, sky-reaching pyramids, centuries-old temples and pristine beaches explains why Mexico has moved to the top of our "must-do now" list. Plunge into sparkling-blue cenotes, lose yourself in bustling markets, venture into ancient ruins or snorkel with whale sharks—this is Mexico's moment. And the best part? You can still get the tequila shots. (After all, if it ain’t broke…)

70 BOND STREE T, SUITE 300, TORONTO, ON CANADA M5B 1 X3 1.800.678.1 147 BUT TERFIELD.COM

If there’s anything better than slowing down in Sicily, it’s chowing down there. Turn to page 24 to find out why.