Vancouver Island North Explorer Guide 2016

The

VANCOUVER

ISLAND NORTH EXPLORER GUIDE 2016

Escape into Nature.

Alert Bay Discover our World Arts | Culture | Heritage U’mista Cultural Centre Alert Bay Visitor Centre and Art Gallery Alert Bay Museum Big House & World’s Tallest Totem Pole ‘Namgis Burial Ground with stand of totems

Activities Whale watching Fishing, Nature Trails Traditional Canoes Tennis Courts, Skate Park Kayaking

Health Hospital and Health Centre Personal Care Services

Business Full service Marina Accommodations Hotels, B&B’s Cabins Campground Bike Rentals Grocery store | Pharmacy Restaurants | Pubs Liquor Store | Post Office Churches | Banking | Hair Salon

For general inquiries: Alert Bay Visitor Centre

For your cultural planning contact: U’mista Cultural Centre Phone: (250) 974-5403 Fax: (250) 974-5499 Toll Free: 1-800-690-8222 E-mail: info@umista.ca 2 | www.northislandgazette.com

www.umista.ca

Phone: (250) 974-5024 Fax: (250) 974-5026 E-mail: info@alertbay.ca

www.alertbay.ca

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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communities

Welcome to Vancouver Island North

|

Ocean vast © Boomer Jerritt

alert bay

Vancouver Island North is the first word and last stop in western Canada for relaxed and spontaneous eco-adventure. The upper third of the Canadian Pacific’s largest island is unspoiled and largely undiscovered yet just a day’s travel from Vancouver, Victoria and Seattle. It offers a breathtaking palette of parks, forests, lakes, saltwater inlets and jigsaw-puzzle coastline. Black bears forage for berries, whales splash at sea and eagles glide overhead. The region also stretches past the shores of Vancouver Island to include magnificent Knight Inlet and a swath of the Great Bear Rainforest on the mainland of British Columbia.

Our friendly towns and villages are charmingly relaxed, pleasingly civilized and within easy reach of the area’s many special wild places.

Once unpacked, you’re free to experience the North Island at your own pace. Spend your days out at sea, exploring magical coastlines, or immersed in our inland wilderness. Meet and mingle with the friendly locals at cultural, seasonal and community festivals. Shop for crafts created on the North Island. Experience First Nations traditions, art, and living culture.

Dine on the day’s catch around a campfire or treat yourself to a meal at one of our restaurants.

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As the sun sinks in the west, relax with your traveling companions wherever you’ve settled – wilderness campground, B&B, cabin, cottage, hotel or resort. Trade stories, flip through digital snapshots and plan tomorrow’s new adventure. After all the fresh air and active playtime, you’ll sleep well and awake refreshed, revitalized and ready for more.

Explore the North Island on your own with goanywhere impulsiveness. Or hand the reigns to expert guides and charter operators. Troll for salmon in Queen Charlotte Strait or steelhead and trout in inland lakes. Watch as orcas power their way to the ocean surface. Ski world-class powder at crowd-free Mount Cain.

Photograph black bears on the Island and their grizzly counterparts in the Great Bear Rainforest on the adjacent mainland coast.

Run the world’s fastest navigable tidal rapids.

Try scuba diving at God’s Pocket Marine Park, surfing at Raft Cove or kayaking on the sheltered east or wild west coasts. Perhaps best of all, strap on a backpack for a trek to windswept, impossibly scenic Cape Scott Provincial Park at the island’s northern tip.

The Kwakwaka’wakw peoples have called this region home for thousands of years. Alert Bay is internationally known for its First Nations cultural centre, public dance performances

and the world’s tallest totem pole. Gain a deeper connection to the land and the people by taking a guided cultural tour.

Fishing, logging and mining drew the first European settlers north in the 1860s, and their history is documented in a good selection of local museums. Telegraph Cove is a virtual museum in itself with its wooden buildings, boardwalk and whale interpretive centre. Peaceful oceanfront communities like Sointula, Sayward and Quatsino remain havens for the same getaway-from-it-all dreams that drew their original homesteaders.

“find yourself while getting lost in nature” Enjoy the amenities of our towns and villages.

And visit during summer festival season for a taste of authentic community spirit. Whether you’re seeking adventure or relaxation, this remote yet accessible corner of British Columbia serves up outdoor pleasures with a satisfying dash of comfort.

activities whale watching

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wildlife viewing sport fishing

hiking cape scott provincial park kayaking caving diving

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museums & cultural centres 21

twitter.com/vinorthtourism

first nations

facilities & info charters

facebook.com/vancouverislandnorth.ca

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places to stay ways to play and relax

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travelling 22

2016 events calendar 24 camping & recreation sites 25 regional map 26

places to eat

2016 Vancouver Island North Guide Published by the North Island Gazette www.northislandgazette.com

© Boomer Jerritt

youtube.com/VancouverIslandNorth

communities alert bay broughton archipelago

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44 33

holberg & winter harbour

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port alice

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port hardy

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port mcneill

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In partenership with: Vancouver Island Tourism www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

quatsino

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sayward

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©2015 North Island Gazette No portion of the magazine may be reproduced without the written permission of the North Island Gazette.

sointula

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telegraph cove

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woss & nimpkish valley

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zeballos

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Box 458, Port Hardy BC V0N 2P0 Phone 250-949-6225 Design & Production publisher@northislandgazette.com publisher: Kathy O’Reilly-Taylor sales: Natasha Griffiths graphic design: Marnie Neaves

Knight Inlet Grizzly Bears © Boomer Jerritt

coal harbour

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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| whale watching

These waters are one of the most predictable places to see killer whales in the wild.

Whale Watching Vancouver Island North’s most celebrated residents are its marine mammals.

Members of a population of some 285 fish-eating orcas known as the “Northern Residents” are often in the area in pursuit of salmon. The more stealthy mammaleating population of orca known as “Transients” or “Bigg’s killer whales” are also often hunting in the area.

Back from the brink of extinction, humpback whales are now also a regular sighting and make this area all the more

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remarkable for its marine mammal diversity.

Sightseeing trips may also encounter Pacific harbour seals, Dall’s and harbour porpoise, Minke whales and a prodigious array of seabirds. Acrobatic Pacific whitesided dolphins and the world’s largest sea lion species, the Steller sea lion, are in the area year-round, though spring and fall are the most predictable times to see large numbers of both. The sight of dozens of sea lions lazing on the rocks and growling loudly is unforgettable.

Orca near Robson Bight Ecological Reserve © Destination BC

Vancouver Island North tour operators view all of these magnificent creatures with respect. The small community of operators here is dedicated to ensuring safe, sustainable encounters that serve marine mammals and sightseers in equal measure.

Captains closely adhere to “Be Whale Wise” guidelines that dictate that boats stay at least 100 meters away from any whales. That’s not to say these remarkable mammals won’t make a memorable encounter on their own terms.

DID YOU KNOW: The wildlife viewing community on Northern Vancouver Island cares so much about the whales that they initiated a program to inform boaters how to do what’s right for the whales. When you see the Whale Watch Flag raised on a nearby vessel, it means whales are in the area Slow down and watch for blows.

See www.nimmsa.org for more information on this program.

BE WHALE WISE. The following guidelines apply to all tour operators, commercial and pleasure craft, as well as kayaks and other self-propelled vessels: •

Be cautious and courteous, approaching known areas of marine wildlife activity with extreme caution

•

Reduce speed to less than 7 knots when within 400 meters of the nearest whale

•

Keep clear of the whales’ path of travel

•

Do not approach whales from the front or behind, always approach and depart from the side

•

Do not approach or position your vessel closer than 100 meters to any whale

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Stay on the offshore side of the whales when they are travelling close to shore

•

Do not swim with, touch or feed marine wildlife

In addition with the return of humpback whales to the area, for the sake of both human and whale safety, extra measures are required to avoid collision: •

Humpbacks are large, can surface suddenly and be very unaware of boats.

•

Be on the lookout for blows at all times.

•

Go slow if you see a blow.

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If you see the Whale Watch Flag raised on boats, slow down as this means whales are near.

•

See the Marine Education and Research Society’s page for known areas of known whale density and further information on safe boater behaviour around whales www.mersociety. org/blowgoslow.htm

•

Please report incidents e.g. disturbance, collision and entanglement to: DFO’s Reporting Line 1-800-465-4336.

Get out on the water with local experts offering tours from the North Island communities of Telegraph Cove, Port McNeill, Alert Bay, or Port Hardy.

See www.vancouverislandnorth. ca/whale-watching for listings.

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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| Grizzly bear in Knight Inlet © Boomer Jerritt

wildlife viewing

Wildlife Viewing Wild things roam here. Expect your first sightings to be majestic bald eagles riding the updrafts overhead or perhaps a black bear munching on sweet grass at the edge of Highway 19 (locally known as “bear alley”). The Roosevelt Elk and Vancouver Island Marmot are unique to the region.

Great blue herons fish at the edge of estuaries that echo with the sweet call of songbirds.

The Vancouver Island North region includes a section of the mainland coast that is renowned as one of the

world’s finest destinations for grizzly bear sightseeing. Day tours depart

“Wild things roam here” from Telegraph Cove to Knight Inlet by boat, and multi-day tours (including accommodation at a floating wilderness lodge) head to the Great Bear Rainforest from Port Hardy by floatplane.

See www.vancouverislandnorth.ca/bearviewing for listings.

Scarlet Point Seafoods Ltd

To stay safe and make the most of these rare photo opportunities, please be aware of the following when encountering wildlife: •

Always travel in a group and keep a close eye on small children and pets for safety when hiking in the woods

•

Talk, sing, whistle or wear a bell when hiking in order to avoid startling a wild animal

•

If you encounter a wild animal, stay back a respectful distance so that they do not feel threatened

•

Do not feed wild animals

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If confronted by a wild animal, pick up small children, make yourself look as large as possible, back away slowly and leave the area

•

Never run from a wild animal

•

The safest encounter (for both you and the animal) is an encounter that is avoided

6710 Hardy Bay Road PO Box 308 Port Hardy, BC V0N 2P0

Tel: 250-949-6630 Fax: 250-949-6313 scarlet@cablerocket.com

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acti v ities

| © Boomer Jerritt

sport fishing

Sport Fishing Immerse yourself in one of the North Island’s most enjoyable pastimes. Cast a line as you motor past postcard maritime scenery. Wait patiently for the big ones to bite while enjoying the camaraderie of fellow passengers and the good humour of the laidback guides who lead charter expeditions. Then get set to reel in the catch of the day, soon to be cleaned and readied for either the evening campfire or professionally prepared, frozen or vacuumpacked, for the trip home.

All five varieties of Pacific salmon run fast on migration routes that travel down the west and east side of the Island, occasionally detouring on tides and currents out into the Queen Charlotte Strait. That gives North Island fishing enthusiasts first dibs on these members of the genus known as Oncorhynchus (aka the big pink ones) as they head south to their spawning grounds.

30+ years experience in local waters.

Float your own boat at one of the many convenient ramps in our waterfront communities. Or hire a qualified charter operator. Local guides supply all the gear and advice necessary to reel in prize catches. Comfortable fishing boats are available by the half-day or day (be sure to book in advance). And you don’t have to go far from shore since the fish are typically biting within the length of a fishing line cast from any available dock.

Visitor Information Centers have leads on guides and useful tips on what’s biting when and where. Also available are maps of the logging roads that head to steelhead and trout-filled wilderness lakes and streams.

These routes are bumpy, and a solid fourwheel drive vehicle is recommended (but not essential provided one drives slow and easy).Salmon tend to migrate from May through September, and their numbers

Fishing Charters & Sightseeing Tours Come enjoy a day on our 20 foot Bayliner Trophy equipped with all the necessary safety gear as well as any local waters in e c n e ri e p x e fishing lus”that is needed. ars pgear “30 ye250.284.6204 Regan Hickling r.com shingcharte fi h c 250.209.2779 Cell a e b le b 779 m

Alice, B Box 1, Port

“all five varieties of pacific salmon run on migration routes past the north island” locally, as are crab, prawns, oysters and mussels. Ask around at dockside or visit the Fisheries and Oceans Canada website, www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca, for tips about regulations, licenses and conservation areas. See www.vancouverislandnorth.ca/ sport-fishing for charter and guide listings.

DID YOU KNOW:

Rumble Beach

Regan Hick

peak in the summer and fall. Halibut are abundant from March to September. Red snapper and ling cod are also caught

ling

u www.rwww.rumblebeachfishingcharters.com 250-209-2 204 or cell: -6 4 8 -2 0 5 2 Box • 1, Port Alice BC V0N 2N0 C V0N 2N0

All recreational sport fishing license are now delivered electronically through the National Recreational Licensing System, www-ops2.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/ nrls-sndpp/index-eng.cfm – Purchase yours in advance.

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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TOP 10 FISHING HOLES

| Fishing © Boomer Jerritt

sport fishing

Freshwater

Saltwater

Nimpkish Lake Schoen Lake Roberts Lake Victoria Lake Woss Lake O’Connor Lake Quatse River Nahwitti River Keogh River Cluxewe River

Blackfish Sound Duval Point Gordon Group Masterman Island Telegraph Cove Cormorant Island Cluxewe River Mouth Wells Passage Haddington Island Quatsino Sound

+ LOCALS KNOW: In early September the boat is optional! An incredible fishing experience can be had right from the dock or the seashore near the mouth North Island rivers as the salmon start returning during the spawning season.

You caught the big one... ...what are you going to do with it?

We can help with:

Custom Smoking Custom filleting & vacuum packaging Shipping services available, some restrictions apply.

Port McNeill 250-956-FISH(3474) C: 250.230.0579 TF: 1.855.805. FISH(3474)

To pre-arrange any of these services call

wwww.vanislefishing.com

1-877-949-8781 www.hardybuoys.com

9300 Trustee Road, Port Hardy • 250-949-8781

(in the North Island Mall)

Full and Half Day Charters Available!

Larry Weber Larry Weber 250-902-9493 250-902-9493

larry@leisuresuitcharters.com Larry Weber larry@leisuresuitcharters.com www.leisuresuitcharters.com www.leisuresuitcharters.com 250-902-9493 www.fishhardercharters.com

Fishhardercharters@gmail.com

Specializing in fishing trips for salmon,

Specializing in fishing trips for salmon, halibut&&steelhead. steelhead. halibut

Specializing in fishing trips for salmon, larry@leisuresuitcharters.com Specializing in fishing trips for salmon, halibut & steelhead. www.leisuresuitcharters.com Call Ryan Conway (604) 907-1613 PO Box 692 Port Hardy, BC V0N 2P0 halibut & steelhead.

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acti v ities

| View of Nimpkish Valley from Woss lookout tower ©

hiking

Hiking www.vinmap.ca

“every day on vancouver island north dawns with fresh possibilities for those eager to explore the region on foot.”

Take it easy with short, scenic loop routes.

Spend the day hiking there and back to a postcard picnic spot by lake, river or ocean.

Or go long on overnight and multi-day backpacking treks into the heart of nature.

Casual hikers can map out the day’s agenda over breakfast, then embark on a series of diverse trails. Dedicated trails and abandoned logging roads penetrate deep into the landscape. Many seaside communities are lined with wheelchairaccessible seawalls and boardwalks perfect for family outings and sunset strolls prior to an evening meal. View a Google map with trail locations and information at

www.vinmap.ca or inquire at Local Visitor Centres for details on such hiking options as the following: Port Hardy’s Quatse Loop and Estuary Trail lead from the fisherman’s wharf and oceanfront hotels. The Quatse Estuary is home to eagles, herons and all kinds of birdlife. The forested 2.5 km Quatse Loop trail veers off and follows the river past the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre with its interpretive displays and hatchery.

Beachcombers flock to Storey’s Beach, an inviting stretch of sand near Fort Rupert just south of Port Hardy. Wade in the gentle tides or tackle the rugged 11 km out-andback Tex Lyon Trail. The beach is one terminus of the lovely Fort Rupert Trail, a newly upgraded route that follows an ancient First Nations pathway through the forest and past a lake to Bear Cove Road.

The Port McNeill Rotary Trail is a wide, smooth, crushed gravel pathway that runs along Highway 19 and into the Town of Port McNeill. A short distance north of Port McNeill the Cluxewe Salt Marsh Trail offers a sweet 45-minute return trip to the beach.

Find a forest walk along the road to Port Alice where the Marble River Trail offers hikers two destinations, Emerald Pools or Bear Falls - especially exciting during the spawning season when the salmon leap through the air in order to pass the falls on their upstream journey.

All the First Nations must-sees of Alert Bay on Cormorant Island are within an easy hike of the ferry terminal. There’s an uphill climb (or relaxed drive) to the Ecological Park with its marsh boardwalk, excellent birdwatching and network of forested trails.

Otherwise more relaxed strolling can be had at sea level along the restored boardwalk and oceanfront seawall.

Follow in the footsteps of Sointula’s pioneers along Malcolm Island’s historic Mateoja Heritage Trail, a 6-km return trip. Or watch for orcas when hiking the aptly named Beautiful Bay Trail (5km return).

For a truly unique west coast experience, head past the community of Holberg accessed via gravel logging road from Port Hardy. Look for the signs to Raft Cove, a provincial park with a moderately challenging, 2.5 km trail leading through the coastal rainforest out to the open Pacific Ocean.

The Sayward Futures Society manages a series of lovely wilderness hiking trails, including the two-hour forested Cottonwood Loop and, for those with the four-wheel drive vehicles necessary to access it, the Stowe Creek Trail leading to the peak of H’Kusam Mountain.

Get up into the alpine on the short-but-steep Woss Lookout Trail for a panoramic view of the Nimpkish Valley from the recently resorted fire lookout tower.

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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DID YOU KNOW:

|

The North Coast Trail in Cape Scott Provincial Park is a 58 km multi-day hiking route that opened in 2008 and is already considered by many to be one of the best backcountry adventures in the world.

cape scott

North Coast Trail © Steve Fines www.natureone.ca

Cape Scott Provincial Park www.capescottpark.com

Travel is a journey, not a destination, and it’s a memorable one when taken step by remarkable step.

Still relatively undiscovered, the sweeping tidal flats, forested trails and oceanslammed headlands of Cape Scott Provincial Park are increasingly showing up on the radar of the international backpacking community.

Day hikers and family groups can get a satisfying taste of the larger possibilities by taking the 90-minute return trail to San Josef Bay’s sandy beach on a wellgroomed gravel path from the trailhead parking lot. Backpackers seeking a tougher

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challenge take the original Cape Scott Trail along 16 km of varied terrain to incredible beach camping at Nels Bight.

The hardiest adventurers, meanwhile, find the ultimate backcountry experience on the North Coast Trail. This is a gloriously challenging grind suitable for experienced hikers capable of tackling steep headlands, muddy sections and gorges with the aid of fixed ropes, boardwalks and cable cars. The 58 km one-way trip requires a minimum of five days.

Travel to the Cape Scott trailhead by driving past Holberg on the gravel logging road or arrange a shuttle from Port Hardy. Water access to Shushartie Bay, the other end of the North Coast Trail, is also available from Port Hardy by water taxi. Shuttle and boat services provided by Cape Scott Water Taxi www.capescottwatertaxi.com.

Many backpackers who want a taste of this park’s rugged beauty without the multi-day trek of the North Coast Trail embark from the Cape Scott trailhead to Nissen Bight, Nels Bight and Guise Bay, all within a day’s hike out.

In 2014 a new Ranger Cabin was constructed at Nels Bight. With 100% off the grid construction and facilities, it is outfitted with solar power and led lighting, a water catchment system, gray water dispersal, and propane appliances. The cabin is staffed during the summer and will function as an emergency shelter for the public during the off season. Please respect this space if visiting during the winter.

Those who head to Cape Scott itself are invited to sign the guest book at the lighthouse. Expect to see trace evidence along the trail of the late 19th century Danish settlers who tried to make this beautiful area their new home in the new world.

Always come prepared! The weather is highly changeable, and layered clothing topped by sturdy rain gear is essential.

Overnight campsites are dotted along these routes. Be sure to check out the Virtual Hike of the park by visiting www. capescottpark.com.

acti v ities

DID YOU KNOW:

|

Killer whale watching from a kayak in Johnstone Strait was rated #2 in the Lonely Planet’s Top 10 list of Canadian Adventures.

Kayaking © Boomer Jerritt

k ayaking

Kayaking North Coast Trail Shuttle Cape Scott Water Taxi Port Hardy to the Cape Scott North Coast Trail

ONE STOP LAND & WATER TRANSPORTATION. The Cape Scott North Coast Trail Shuttle

Runs from May 1 – Sept.15 Cells: 250-902-8208 • 250-902-8202

www.northcoasttrailshuttle.com

Paddle into shallow coves, up narrow creeks and across lakes while appreciating a silence broken only by the soft smack of paddle against water. Hug the coastline or strike out for a nearby island to picnic on a deserted sandy beach. Since technique and balance are more important than sheer strength, this is one sport that’s increasingly popular with men, women and kids alike.

Strap your own transportation to a roof rack, rent from a local outfitter, or sign up for a guided tour in this world-class paddling destination. View intertidal life in the clear, cold waters. Seals, sea lions, orcas and maybe even humpback whales are happy to welcome respectful, low-impact visitors to their aquatic playground. The Lonely Planet travel guide ranked killer whale watching from a kayak in Johnstone Strait #2 in their Top 10 list of Canadian Adventures.

Guides and fellow kayakers become fast friends on day trips or longer excursions that might

include sleepovers in rustic campgrounds, comfor table base camps or luxurious resorts hidden away on remote islands.

Weather and sea conditions can change quickly, so be prepared and travel in a group. A number of local kayaking companies offer tours, lessons and rentals.

Enjoy your on the water experience at your own pace.

E xperienced, long- distance kayakers tackle the West Coast Vancouver Island North Marine Trail, a newly designated route that traces the coastline from Port Hardy past Cape Scott Provincial Park and all the way to Tofino (www.bcmarinetrails. org). After exploring the local waters, kayakers heading north to the spectacular Great Bear Rainforest and Haida Gwaii sail via BC Ferries from Port Hardy’s Bear Cove terminal.

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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| caving

Caving seeking an accessible yet thrillingly unique new experience?

Vancouver Island North boasts the highest concentration of caves in Canada.

Water has worked its alchemical magic on the rugged landscape for hundreds of thousands of years. Result: The relatively soft karst (limestone) topography is riddled with networks of subterranean getaways – some suitable for beginners, others only for the most expert cavers.

Little Huson Caves © Boomer Jerritt

Rookies of all ages can explore at Little Huson Caves Regional Park, a 45-minute drive south of Port McNeill, off the Zeballos road. A self-guided tour here includes stops at a natural rock bridge and walk-in, cathedral-style cave.

+ LOCALS KNOW: There is more to Little Huson Caves Regional Park than the main land bridge feature. There are a number of other caves to explore, a crystal clear river with a unique limestone riverbank, and Little Huson Lake is a short hike upstream. Bring a flashlight and remember that caution should always be used when exploring caves.

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Everyone can get an easy access look at some of Canada’s finest karst formations from viewing platforms set up along the Alice Lake Loop. It includes stops at the Eternal Fountain with its soothing waterfall, and the Devil’s Bath, a very good example of a cenote, much the same as those found in the Yucatan.

For their part, experienced cavers can explore some of the longest, deepest karst caves in Canada. On the north Island, several of these caves are concentrated in two areas rich in limestone, the Quatsino formation and the Parsons Bay formations – the later is not exclusive to the north Island region as it stretches farther south on Vancouver Island. When exploring underground always have at least two sources of light and a helmet, and let someone know where you are going and when to expect your return. Guides are strongly recommended for the more difficult treks, and regional authorities ask that cavers steer clear of any unmapped caves.

Information about the sport on Vancouver Island can be found through the Canadian Caver website at www.cancaver.ca.

acti v ities

| diving

DID YOU KNOW:

Hooded Nudibranchs and Juvenile Giant Pacific Octopus © Jackie Hildering - www.TheMarineDectective.com

The reason you can’t see to the bottom in these cold, dark waters is because there is so much life! When you can see to the bottom, there is far less plankton which fuels the food web. For more on this see The Marine Detective’s video clip by Googling “The Reason You Can’t See to the Bottom...”.

Diving www.TheMarineDetective.com Zip up a dry suit, strap on a scuba cylinder and sink below the surface into an incredible marine wonderland. Vancouver Island North is world-renowned for its scuba diving. These cold (around 10°C), clear, current-fed waters are home to an extraordinary diversity of life in jaw-dropping density and colour.

In these rich waters, species often exceed the limits given in field guides and unlike many tropical areas, virtually no surface is left uninhabited. You are truly visiting another world of amazingly mysterious and diverse organisms.

It is common to encounter more than ten species of nudibranch on a single dive. Giant Pacific octopuses and wolf eels might be spotted around their dens. And rockfish may school around you. The rock walls are brightly painted with red soft coral, multi-hued sponges

and vibrant anemones and sea stars. It’s an underwater photographer’s dreamscape.

Seemingly endless stretches of coastline provide equally endless dive opportunities.

Favorite spots in the area include the concentration of dive sites in the Broughton and Blackfish Archipelagos; the gardens of Zeballos; the Decorated Warbonnet © Jackie Hildering - www.TheMarineDectective.com expansive walls of Browning Pass near God’s Pocket Marine Provincial Park; and the vibrant life of resort. Whichever way you get your feet wet in this addictive pastime, you’re sure to want to Quatsino Narrows. explore all that this cold-water diver’s paradise Choose to rent gear (dry suits are a must) and has to offer. join a local operator on guided trips out to prime locations; or settle into the comfort of a dive

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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Places to Stay

Port Alice RV Park & Campground & Oceanview Restaurant

l u f i t u Beeaanview 1201 Marine Dr. oc

full hookups cablevision tenting laundry facilities wheelchair accessible boat storage coffee shop full washrooms with large showers

Port Alice, BC

(250) 284-3422

Camping on Northern Vancouver Island Breathtaking Estuary and Riverside Views Many easy pull through sites | Beautifully treed tenting area Free hot showers and fiand rewoodRiverside | Laundry facilities Breathtaking Estuary Views Five minutes from BC Ferries | Clean, safe & family friendly environment

Many easy pull through www.porthardyrvresort.com Toll Free:sites 1-855-949-8118 8080 Goodspeed Road, Porttenting Hardy, British Columbia Beautifully treed area

Ozzie & Retta Vezina

AN OCEAN STORM

PORT HARDY RV RESORT & CAMPGROUND

BED & BREAKFAST Luxury Oceanfront Accommodations with beach access YOUR HOSTS

Dave & Michele Andrews TEL: 250.949.9611 CELL: 250.949.0358 www.anoceanstormbb.com | anoceanstormbb@cablerocket.com 5885 Beaver Harbour Rd. Storeys Beach, Port Hardy B.C.

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Free hot showers and firewood Laundry facilities Ocean Comfort B&B Five minutes from BC Ferries Clean, safe & family friendly environment

www.porthardyrvresort.com Toll Free: 1-855-949-8118 8080 Goodspeed Road, Port Hardy, British Columbia

2926 Woodland Drive, Box 256, Port McNeill, V0N 2R0

250-956-0002 | 250-230-4495

www.oceancomfort.net

Port Hardy harbour © Boomer Jerritt

Haida-Way Motor Inn

Upgraded rooms | Competitive rates Kitchenettes, non-smoking. Fridge microwave & coffee maker in each room. Free WIFI. Cafe, Dining room & Pub. Cold beer & wine store onsite.

1.800.956.3373 | 1.250.956.3373 1817 Campbell Way, Port McNeill www.pmhotels.com

Quatsino Chalet

Scotia Bay Resort Oceanside RV Parking Fully services sites Suite rentals | Boat Moorage

+1 250 284 3338 111 Nigei Street, Port Alice BC, Canada

250.949.6484 Fax 250.949.8486 Scotia Bay, Port Hardy masales@telus.net www.scotiabayresort.com

www.quatsinochalethotel.com

Cluxewe Resort

A Natural Wonder on Beautiful North Vancouver Island Come camping or stay in our fully equipped cottage by the sea and eat in our oceanside cafe.

GET HERE!! Go fly fishing right on our beach, go kayaking, birdwatching, hiking, barbecuing and play in our playground. “ A must do” come to the Cluxewe Cafe. Come enjoy our delicious food, relaxing atmosphere right on the ocean.

Call the Cafe today at 1-250-230-1006.

Cluxewe Resort

A Natural Wonder on Beautiful North Vancouver Island

Book your stay with us today at 1-250-949-0378 Email us at relax@cluxewe.com Check out our website www.cluxewe.com www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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Beach at Grant Bay ©

Ways to Play and Relax

With a wealth of recreational, entertaining, and educational alternatives, the towns of Vancouver Island North offer numerous options for go-your-own-way activities.

Check Visitor Centres, coffee shop bulletin boards, the “Hot Spots” section of the North Island Gazette, or www.vancouverislandnorth. ca/events for the latest on festivals, concerts, special events, exhibits and other fun activities.

Shop for art, crafts, fashion and edible goodies (like locally made smoked and candied salmon). Galleries, retail outlets and

museum gift shops sell the splendid, natureinspired work of local artisans and First Nations artists – jewelers, carvers, painters, sculptors, photographers and textile workers included.

Enjoy a drop-in work-out, yoga class and much else at recreation centres in the region.

Pamper yourself with a spa treatment or a massage from skilled bodyworkers.

Make a splash at the indoor pool in Port Hardy, then relax in the hot tub and sauna.

Swim in Port McNeill’s outdoor pool from May through August. Or take a refreshing dip in the ocean or one of our many cold, crystal clear lakes and rivers.

Plan a tour of museums found in Alert Bay, Coal Harbour, Port Hardy, Port McNeill, Port Alice, Quatsino, Telegraph Cove, Sointula and even tiny Echo Bay and Winter Harbour, each with their own unique focus and stories

to share. See page 21 for more details.

Experience First Nations culture and traditional dances (July and August only) at the ‘Namgis Big House in Alert Bay. Just down the hill is the U’mista Cultural Centre and its world-renowned collection of potlatch regalia.

Learn about marine mammal conservation and the diverse ecology of Johnstone Strait at Telegraph Cove’s Whale Interpretive Centre.

Children’s games and interactive displays make this a popular spot for youngsters.

Check out Port Hardy’s Quatse River Hatchery and the Salmon Stewardship Centre to view and learn more about the lifecycle of these long-distance swimmers and their importance to the local economy.

For more ideas on ways to play see www. vancouverislandnorth.ca/things-to-do.

The Shed Outdoor Store More than just bikes!

“Head to the Shed”

250.956.2686 #3C-311 Hemlock St., Port McNeill (behind subway) Mon-Sat 10am-6pm

Cove

Enjoy the Water?

Surfboard rentals are available.

Check out our largest selection of summer apparel.

7053B Market St, Port Hardy

250.949.7553

18 | www.northislandgazette.com

Whale Interpretive Centre, Telegraph Cove, BC email: society@killerwhalecentre.org web: www.killerwhalecentre.org Wind Surfing © Boomer Jerritt

Visit the WIC and: • view an invertebrate Aquarium • enjoy a “kids corner” of activities • have easy access to the interpreters • view marine education videos & presentations • view articulated skeletons and further Hours: displays (baleen, invertebrate, plankton, May-Sep Open Daily Oct-May by appointment only whaling artifacts) Box 2-3, Telegraph Cove, BC V0N 3J0 250.928.3129 (May - Sep) 250.928.3187 (Oct - May)

Cedar Park

Resort & Golfing

Seven Hills Golf Country Club

• • • •

A scenic 9 hole course nested in the North Island forest and rated as one of BC’s best 9 hole courses.

Par 35 rating 68.7/slope 128 Pro Shop | Restaurant (fully licensed) Driving range Power cart rentals | Club rentals RV sites - full hook-up

Seven Hills Golf & Country Club

250-949-9818 sevenhillsgolf.ca

Take Port Alice Hwy turnoff, only 2 minutes away.

Health is where the heart is.

RV Sites • Cottages • Golfing www.cedarpark-resort.com

Privately Owned Resort Overlooking Historical Haddington Island ~ 9 Hole Par 3 Golf course ~ Frisbee Disk Golfing ~ Full Hook up RV Sites (spacious grassy areas) ~Wireless Internet service

While you are visiting come into our store for all your needs.

Pharmacy Hours Mon-Fri: 9am-9pm Sat: 9am-6pm • Sun: 11am-4pm

PH: 250-956-2270

Box 130 Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0

cedarparkresort.portmcneill@gmail.com info@cedarpark-resort.com

Airmiles can now be collected at Rexall

Patricia’s Patricia’s Stitches

Want to get out and go shopping?

Peoples Drug Mart is the perfect place to go!

Making Wearable MakingYour YourRepairable Repairable Wearable Wearable Making Your Repairable

Full Service Pharmacy & Home Health Care Department

Professional ProfessionalAlterations Alterations Professional Alterations Hemming Hemming Hemming Zipper ZipperReplacement Replacement Zipper Replacement Lightweightand and Lightweight Lightweight HeavyweightFabrics Fabrics Heavyweight Fabrics Heavyweight

Wide selection of Souvenirs, Giftware and Much More!

Locally owned & operated

8925 Granville Street Port Hardy » 250-949-6552

Port McNeill 1584 Broughton Blvd

250-956-3126

8810Seaview SeaviewDrive, Drive,Port PortHardy, Hardy,BC BC 8810 Seaview Drive, Port 8810 250-949-6111 • 250-230-0670 250-949-6111 •• 250-230-0670 250-230-0670 250-949-6111

patty_fisher_@@hotmail.com patty_fisher_ hotmail.com www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

19

Telegraph Cove Boardwalk ©

Places to Eat

Specializing in Cantonese and Canadian Fare for over 20 years

Eat, relax and enjoy Telegraph Cove Resort’s beautiful Killer Whale Café or Old Saltery Pub Great food. Great service. Beautiful view.

Dining Room | Lounge | Take-out Catering | Banquets | Meeting rooms 250-949-8381

9040 Granville St. Port Hardy Inn

1.250.928.3155

www.telegraphcoveresort.com

Located on the historic Telegraph Cove boardwalk

Scarlet Ibis Restaurant & Pub

Something for Everyone.

Great daily lunch and dinner specials 8700 Hastings Street, Port Hardy BC

250.949.7811 20 | www.northislandgazette.com

Good food, good friends & Good times for the entire family Last stop going in ... first stop coming out for Cape Scott Provincial Park.

250.288.3386 Downtown Holberg Tues through Sat 12pm - 10pm and Sun & Mon 12pm - 9pm

Museums & Cultural Centres Cultural explorers can dig deep into the ancient, recent and living histories of Vancouver Island North when visiting a surprisingly diverse range of cultural treasure boxes packed with colorful displays and exhibits.

Go back to the source at the Port Hardy Museum and Archives, which houses artifacts from a local archeological dig at Bear Cove – the oldest known site of human habitation on Vancouver Island (circa 5850 BCE). Exhibits change regularly while shining thematic lights on First

Nations history, the Hudson’s Bay Company and European settlement.

The U’mista Cultural Centre in Alert Bay is respected far and wide as one of Canada’s finest First Nations museums with its unparalleled collection of potlatch regalia. Modeled after a big house, it is dedicated to preserving the heritage of the Kwakwaka’wakw. The gift shop features superb jewelry, carvings, textiles and more.

Forestry has been a leading commercial activity on the North Island since European settlers arrived in the 1860s. Based in a sturdy log house, the Port

inhabitants of Johnstone Strait.

Highlights include interactive displa ys, a k id ’s cor ner, educational films and the skeletal remains of whales, dolphins and other wildlife.

Learn about the perilous journey of salmon and their incredible survival stories at the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre in Port Hardy. Located beside a working hatchery, the centre features interactive exhibits, games and a family theatre.

The Port Alice Heritage Centre, above the fire hall, offers a look at the town’s intriguing history. It’s also the site of the Visitor Information Centre and a

DID YOU KNOW: It only takes 2 ½ hours to drive from the Comox Valley to Port McNeill. The communities of Vancouver Island North are closer than you might think!

McNeill Heritage Museum tracks local history with archival photos, exhibits and vintage logging equipment.

An easy walk from the ferry landing, the Sointula Museum is home to artifacts, archival records and displays related to the colourful history of Malcolm Island. A primary focus is on the Finnish immigrants who arrived here at the beginning of the 1900s to launch a short-lived utopian commune.

B o a te r s h e a d i n g n o r t hwe s t across Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound are advised to linger in Echo Bay and visit Billy Procter’s Museum and Gift Shop. The author and lifelong area resident has collected fascinating memorabilia from the logging, fishing and trapping eras.

Whale Interpretive Centre © Boomer Jerritt

Telegraph Cove’s family friendly Whale Interpretive Centre is dedicated to raising public awareness about the fragile ecosystem and migrator y

gift shop that sells locally made art, crafts and greeting cards.

Discover the rich history of Coal Harbour as a whaling station and military base thanks to resident Joel Eilertsen, who welcomes visitors to his collection in the town’s old Air Force hangar.

Artifacts and archival material are stored and displayed in the Quatsino Museum across from the government dock. It’s open daily in July and August in the early afternoon, and throughout the year during weekend lunch hours. Email curator Gwen Hansen for a private showing: quatsino.museum@recn.ca.

Take a look back at the unique story of a remote coastal community. The Winter Harbour historical photo collection is open to the public in the museum room near the Government Wharf Monday, Wednesday and Friday 9 am – 1 pm or by appointment (250) 969-4331.

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Travelling

AHOYBC.com is a new, interactive travel planning tool and travel resource for boaters exploring the west coast of British Columbia – see the Broughton Archipelago/Johnstone Strait and Vancouver Island West sections for details on boating in the North Island region.

Telegraph Cove Sunset © T. Meinhold

DID YOU KNOW:

www.drivebc.ca bc road report

1.800.550.4997

All roads on the North Island lead to Hwy 19. Routes into communities like Sayward, Port Alice and Coal Harbour are modern, paved thoroughfares. Other wilderness retreats and camping areas are only accessible via gravel logging roads. Visibility along these

often very dusty roads can be restricted, so extreme caution is recommended. Remember: Logging trucks always have the right of way. See the Resource Road User Safety Guide at www.bcforestsafe. org/files/tk_pdfs/gde_resrd.pdf.

Discover the North Island

Ferries and water taxis are vital transportation links. Sointula (25 minute sailing) and Alert Bay (45 minute sailing) are a short ferry ride from Port McNeill. Port Hardy’s Bear Cove terminal is the gateway for sailings to Prince Rupert and connections to the Central Coast.

Contact www.BCFerries.com, or phone 1-888-223-3779. If you are looking to charter a boat to a coastal destination check at the Visitor Centres for assistance in selecting a water taxi service provider.

By bus

Monday to Saturday Bus routes serve: Port McNeill Port Hardy Fort Rupert Quatsino/Coal Harbour Zone fares apply.

Call or visit the website for info.

0327

Regional District of Mount Waddington

Transit Info 250·956·3151 • www.bctransit.com 22 | www.northislandgazette.com

When travelling by water, Channel 16 is strictly reserved for emergency communications. Weather information is available by calling 250-949-7148, or by tuning into Channels 21B or Wx 1, 2, or 3 on your VHF radio. Harbour Authorities, marina resorts, and fuel docks monitor Channel 66. See AHOYBC.com for west coast and Vancouver Island ocean boating information, including interactive maps displaying marina, harbour, and facility markers for trip planning and travel.

Port Hardy airport has scheduled daily service to Vancouver and beyond. Charter companies in Port McNeill, Alert Bay and Port Hardy offer scenic flights and service to smaller communities.

Seaplanes and helicopters can be booked for flightseeing trips while also dropping off passengers at wilderness fishing lodges.

Tofino Bus provides daily scheduled bus service that connects the North Island with mid and south Island destinations and connections to Vancouver. It is recommended that you book your ticket in advance by calling 866-986-3466 or online at www.tofinobus.com.

Pick-up and drop-off available in Port Hardy, Port McNeill, Port Alice turn-off, Woss and Sayward junction. Local transit links North Island communities and is wheelchair accessible. For scheduling and fare information, contact Mount Waddington Transit (250-956-3151) www.transitbc.com/regions/mtw.

First Nations

Alert Bay on Cormorant Island is internationally renowned for its storytelling, summertime dance performances and the potlatch treasures housed inside the mustsee U’mista Cultural Centre. The world’s tallest totem pole stands vigil outside the ‘Namgis Big House.

“take a canoe trip or enjoy a salmon bbq with first nations guides.”

the colourful displays of traditional and contemporary artwork in many locations throughout the village – keep your eye out for a favourite piece to add to your personal collection.

Fort Rupert on the southern outskirts of Port Hardy is home to the Kwakiutl First Nation.

Take a walking tour of this friendly enclave by the sea and watch for internationally renowned carvers creating magnificent art from chunks of timber.

Climb aboard in Port Hardy for a culturally inspired adventure to the world’s fastest navigable tidal rapids where your guide will help you visualize this area as it was years ago through stories of their traditional territory. Or launch your marine based cultural adventure from Telegraph Cove or Port McNeill to connect with the past, present, and future of the Kwakwaka’wakw people on a tour to the Village of Alert Bay, or Yukusam (Hanson) Island.

© Destination BC/ Jordan Manley

For more than 8000 years, Canada’s First Nations people have shared this wild coastal region with eagles, black bears, orca and salmon. After a long period of cultural repression, ancient traditions are again thriving as the Kwakwaka’wakw First Nation preserves and celebrates their culture through art, dance, music, language and a sustainable day-to-day relationship with the natural world.

See www.vancouverislandnorth.ca/culturaltours for listings.

And visit an oceanfront graveyard filled with majestic memorial poles (please view respectfully from the road). Enjoy

DID YOU KNOW: In partnership with FirstVoices, a language legacy program, the U’mista Cultural Society has released a Kwak’wala app in the iTunes store to share the native language of the Kwak’wala speaking people.

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

23

date

event

location

JAN

Sat, January 16 Sat, January 23

North Island Concert Society presents Locarno Cain Cup

Port Hardy Mount Cain Ski Area

FEB

Sat – Sun, February 6 - 7 Sat, February 13 Sat & Sun, February 21 - 22

Back Country Festival North Island Concert Society presents Dockside Drive Telefest

Mount Cain Ski Area Port Hardy Mount Cain Ski Area

MAR

Sun, March 6 Sat, March 19

North Island Concert Society presents Bergmann Duo Kid’s Fest

Port Hardy Mount Cain Ski Area

APR

Fri – Sun, April 22 - 24

Doug Innes Memorial Spring Bird Count

Sointula

MAY

Sun, May 8 Fri – Mon, May 20 - 23 Sat – Sun, May 21 - 22

Sointula Seniors Plant Sale Sointula Baseball Tournament Tri-Port Motocross Race Weekend

Sointula Sointula 7 Mile Track (just north of Port McNeill)

JUNE

Wed, June 8 Thurs – Sun, June 16 - 19 Fri – Sun, June 17 - 19 Sat – Sun, June 18 - 19

Oceans Day Celebration 58th Annual June Sports BC’s Family Fishing Weekend 1/8 Mile Drag Racing

Port Hardy Alert Bay BC Port McNeill Airport

Canada Day Regatta Canada Day Celebrations Port McNeill Logger Sports

Sointula Port Hardy, Port McNeill & Port Alice Port McNeill

JULY

Fri, July 1 Fri, July 1 Sat, July 2 Every Thurs, Fri, Sat July 7 – August 27

Fri – Sun, July 15-17 Fri, July 22 Fri – Sun, July 22 - 24 Sat, July 23 Sat – Sun, July 23 - 24 Sat, July 30 Sat, July 30 Sun, July 31 Sun, July 31

T’sasala Cultural Group Traditional Native Dance Performances FILOMI Days & Port Hardy’s 50th Anniversary 34th Annual Alert Bay Sea Fest 9th Annual Alert Bay Art Fest 15th Annual Alert Bay Music Fest 1/8 Mile Drag Racing Telegraph Cove Boardwalk Craft Fair Alert Bay Salmon Run Alert Bay 360 Eco Paddle Telegraph Cove Fishing Derby

Alert Bay Port Hardy Alert Bay Alert Bay Alert Bay Port McNeill Airport Telegraph Cove Alert Bay Alert Bay Telegraph Cove

AUGUST

Every Thurs, Fri, Sat July 7 – August 27

Sat, August 13 Sat, August 20 Sat – Sun, August 20 - 21 Fri – Sun, August 26 - 28

T’sasala Cultural Group Traditional Native Dance Performances Annual Sointula Pet Parade OrcaFest 1/8 Mile Drag Racing Salmon Days

Alert Bay Sointula Port McNeill Port McNeill Airport Sointula

SEPT

Sat – Sun, September 10 - 11 Sun, September 25

Mount Waddington Regional Fall Fair Rivers Day

Port Hardy Port Hardy

OCT

Mon, October 31 Mon, October 31

Halloween Costume Crawl Halloween Fireworks

Port Hardy Port Hardy

NOV

Tues, November 1 Fri – Sun, November 18 - 20

Pumpkin Patch Walk Sointula Winter Festival

Port Hardy Sointula

DEC

2016 Events - Vancouver Island North

2016 Events

What’s Happening here.

Sun, December 4 January 1 (2017)

Santa Claus Parade Polar Bear Swim

Port Hardy Port Hardy & Port McNeill

All events are subject to change, please visit www.vancouverislandnorth.ca/events for most current listing.

24 | www.northislandgazette.com

Link River Regional Park www.rdmw.bc.ca/regional-services/parks

250.288.3682

250.956.3301

Marble River Provincial Park www.bcparks.ca Port Alice RV Park 1201 Marine Drive

250.284.3422

PORT HARDY

Georgie Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca Port Hardy RV Resort & Campground www.porthardyrvresort.com

855.949.8118

Quatse River Campground www.quatsecampground.ca

866.949.2395

Scotia Bay Resort www.scotiabayresort.com

250.949.6484

Seven Hills Golf & RV Park www.sevenhillsgolf.ca

250.949.9818

Stryker Bay RV Park stryker@cablerocket.com

888.839.8022

PORT McNEILL

Wildwoods Campsite www.wildwoodscampsite.com

250.949.6753

Broughton Strait Campground broughtonstrait@hotmail.com

250.956.3224

Cedar Park Resort & Golfing www. cedarparkresort-rv.com

250.956.2270

Cluxewe Resort www.cluxeweresort.com

250.949.0378

Bere Point www.rdmw.bc.ca/regional-services/parks

250.956.3301

Harmony Shores Campground www.harmonyshores.ca

250.949.0201

Sointula Hostel www.sointulahostel.com

250.208.8939

Alder Bay Resort www.alderbayresort.com

888.956.4117

Telegraph Cove Resort www.telegraphcoveresort.com

800.200.4665

Telegraph Cove Marina & RV Park www.telegraphcove.ca

877.835.2683

Cape Scott Provincial Park www.bcparks.ca Raft Cove Provincial Park www.bcparks.ca San Josef Heritage Park

250.282.3682

Kwaksistah Campground www.rdmw.bc.ca/regional-services/parks

250.956.3301

Outpost at Winter Harbour www.winterharbour.ca

250.969.4333

Winter Harbour Marina & RV www.winterharbourlodge.ca

250.969.4293

Bonanza Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca Schoen Lake Provincial Park www.bcparks.ca Vernon Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca Woss Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca

Clint Beek (Keogh Lake) www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca

Atluck Lake Via Atluck Rd, off the main road to Zeballos

Ida Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca Kathleen Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca

SAYWARD

SOINTULA

San Josef Heritage Park

TELEGRAPH COVE

Nahwitti Lake www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca

WEST COAST

Cape Scott Provincial Park www.bcparks.ca | www.capescottpark.com

Nothing says summer like tent camping. Vancouver Island North caters to those who enjoy sleeping under the stars with options ranging from fullservice family friendly spots to basic wilderness sites. Campgrounds in the region are provided by a mix of operators: forest companies, the Regional District of Mount Waddington, BC Provincial Parks, the Ministry of Natural Resource Operations, and private owners. The list here is only a partial summary of regional recreation sites. Please check at local Visitor Centres for further information.

WINTER HARBOUR

250.974.5213

WOSS / NIMPKISH

Alert Bay Campground www.alertbay.ca

Elk Creek Forest Recreation Site

250.282.0018

Kelsey Bay RV & Campground

250.282.3762

Sayward Valley Resort

250.282.3204

Village Centre Campground

250.282.5512

ZEBALLOS & ZEBALLOS ROAD

PORT ALICE

HOLBERG

ALERT BAY

Camping & Recreation Sites

Anutz Lake On River Main Rd, off the main road to Zeballos Cevallos Campsite www.zeballos.com

250.761.4229

Fair Harbour Marina & Campground www.gatewaytokyuquot.com 250.483.3382 | 250.287.2223 Resolution Campsite 4km from Zeballos, on Fair Harbour Road Swan Song In Zeballos Zeballos RV Park www.zeballos.com

250.761.4229

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

25

26 | www.northislandgazette.com

Port Hardy

RETURN-IT CENTRE

North Island’s only full refund beer & bottle depot.

We take at no charge: Styrofoam | Tin Cans | Light Bulbs

Small Appliances | Batteries | Electronics | Glass Jars All Curb Side Recycling | Full refund on all Beverage Containers Paint and Cardboard

Open 4 days a week Thurs – Sun 9:30am-4:30pm After Hours Bulk Dropoff Call 250-949-1668 9300 Trustee Road, Port Hardy 250-949-7700

Don’t leave town without it!

The great thing about having a Save-onMore card is that its benefits travel with you. But don’t worry if you don’t have a card. Just sign up in store and start taking advantage of the benefits right away.

Thunderbird Mall Port Hardy 250-949-6455 Hours: 8am-9pm everyday

www.overwaitea.com

B.C.’s very own food people.

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

27

By logging road or boat, outdoor adventurers can access prime West Coast recreation sites such as Side Bay, Gooding Cove, Harvey Cove, Brooks Peninsula, Winter Harbour, Alice Lake, Link River, Victoria Lake and more!

Activities      

Fishing Kayaking Mountain Biking Hiking Golf Scuba Diving

Services            

Accommodations & Campground Restaurants & Groceries Boat Launch & Fuel Services Gas Station & Fishing Bank & ATM Post Office Liquor Store Tourism Centre Fishing & Sightseeing Charters Health Centre Library Free Sani-Dump

Photos by Darrell McIntosh

28 | www.northislandgazette.com

www.portalice.ca info@portalice.ca 250-284-3391

Port Alice © Darrell McIntosh

Port Alice gateway to the wild and wonderful west coast www . portalice . ca

visitor centre 250.284.3391

Do-it-yourself adventurers find peace, lovely west-coast scenery and crowd-free access to the great outdoors in Port Alice. Perched on a pretty hillside facing the Neroutsos Inlet, this thriving community is the most southerly access point to Quatsino Sound and invites kayakers, scuba divers, charter fishing guides and recreational fishers bound for the open Pacific.

The town is a base camp for expeditions via boat or logging road to such remote getaways as Side Bay, Gooding Cove, Harvey Cove, Brooks Peninsula and Klaskino Inlet. Inquire at the Tourism Centre beside the town office for directions before heading out on the back roads. Public launch facilities in town offer ocean access for travelers towing their own boat or kayak. Or get out on the water with a charter fishing or wildlife-viewing guide.

Link River and Spruce Bay campgrounds at nearby Alice and Victoria Lakes are both favorite spots for freshwater fishing and outdoor recreation. The newly developed Alice Lake Loop Recreational Corridor provides easy access to view geological wonders like Devil’s Bath and the Eternal Fountain, part of the vast stretches of limestone that make Vancouver Island North prime caving country.

Wilderness hiking is at its best along the Marble River Trail leading to Bear Falls and Emerald Pools. Access the trail at Marble River Park and campsite along scenic Hwy 30 to Port Alice.

“Hundreds of species of birds visit neroutsos inlet throughout the year” In town, stroll the Sea accessible pathway community’s coastline. the short distance to Walk-out Island when the tide is low, and don’t forget your binoculars!

These same waters are home to orca, humpback, and grey whales, seals, sea otters, California and Steller sea lions, and migrating salmon.

Walk, a wheelchairthat follows the Have a picnic, hike

Cyclists of all skill levels tackle the trails of the Rumble Mountain. Golfers head for the Port Alice Golf and Country Club, a challenging nine-hole course set against glorious mountain and ocean vistas; it once earned recognition from Ripley’s Believe It Or Not! as the only course in the world requiring golfers to play around or over an Anglican church (which has since been removed).

The Tourism & Heritage Center offers information for travelers, a small gift shop stocked with souvenirs made by local artisans, and a well-documented look into Port Alice’s past. The town’s history dates back to the opening of a pulp mill circa World War I. It became the province’s first instant municipality in 1965 when the town was relocated from the mill site to its present

Inlet Haven B&B

• totally private entrances • all rooms nonsmoking • wireless Internet • pets & children welcome

Port Alice, Po Port Alilice A c , BC ce C www.inlethaven.com jimbon@cablerocket.com

250-284-3216

Jim & Bonnie Overland

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

29

Grant bay © Steven Fines - www.natureone.ca

“ Hiking, surfing or fishing adventures are top priority for most visitors headed to the northwest coast of Vancouver Island.”

Holberg & Winter Harbour

The village of Holberg is worth a long linger, and not strictly to enjoy the pub food and welcoming ambience at the renowned Scarlet Ibis. Visit Ronning’s Garden, a circa 1910 homestead on the old San Josef Wagon Road whose vast and exotic grounds sit in the middle of the rainforest. This unique garden, started by pioneering settler Bernt Ronning, complete with monkey puzzle trees and fascinating plants from around the world, almost disappeared when he left his homestead, but has now been restored.

Hiking, surfing or kayaking adventures are top priority for most visitors headed to the northwest coast of Vancouver Island.

Cape Scott Provincial Park is an unspoiled

30 | www.northislandgazette.com

wonderland with its deserted beaches, sculpted coastline and marathon hiking trails. Raft Cove Provincial Park attracts day trippers and campers who set up their tents on the sandy beach. And please keep it quiet, but surfers who prize seclusion and bestkept-secret beachfronts have rediscovered Raft Cove’s big waves. Other beaches to be explored are San Josef Bay and Hecht Beach.

way to learn some of the history of this remote community. Expect to head home with harbour photos of the playful sea otters that pop their curious heads above water and float on their backs. Kayakers will also put their waterproof digital cameras to good use when exploring the many paddling adventures available in Quatsino Sound via a Winter Harbour launch.

From Holberg, the gravel road ends at Winter Harbour. This tiny and historic fishing village offers safe year-round anchorage, a seaside boardwalk and access to oceanfront hikes along Botel Park Trail and out to the prime beachcombing at Grant Bay. The hamlet’s museum is an informative and entertaining

The village of Winter Harbour shines during the sport fishing season. Fishing lodges, campgrounds and marinas fill with folks looking for the ultimate fishing destination.

The close proximity to the abundant Pacific west coast makes Winter Harbour the ideal spot for catching the big one.

Fishing Boat © Boomer Jerritt

Echoes and evidence of boom times in a classic west-coast rainforest environment can be found on journeys to what was once the site of the world’s largest floating logging camp. Holberg is an hour’s drive northwest of Port Hardy and the last stop before Cape Scott Provincial Park. The gravel logging road that takes you there is part of the fun, especially when stopping at the Shoe Tree – started as a joke by a local resident and now a Vancouver Island legend thanks to the hundreds of boots, sandals and shoes on its trunk and slung across its branches.

© Boomer Jerritt

Alert Bay home of the killer whale www . alertbay . ca

visitor centre 250.974.5024

Alert Bay is a rare, precious and unique First Nation cultural tourism experience. Said to be one of the last authentic fishing villages on Canada’s west coast, it’s easily accessible via a scenic 35-minute ferry ride from Port McNeill.

Alert Bay offers visitors museums, art galleries, a bustling marina, friendly locals and cozy accommodations and restaurants set within an unparalleled northern Pacific wilderness environment. The town centre, with its colorful heritage buildings dating back to the late 1800’s, sits on the sheltered western coastline of Cormorant Island.

‘Yalis is home to the ‘Namgis of the Kwakwaka’wakw (Kwakwala speaking people).

per formances take place Thursday to Saturday in July and until the third weekend in August. Visit the original ‘Namgis Burial Grounds to see memorial and other Totem Poles (please view respectfully from the road only) as well as other Totem Poles and Archways spread throughout the Island.

Join in unique adventures such as Cedar Bark weaving, NusaStory telling, salmon barbecues and island tours provided by local guides.

Cormorant Island has more than 16 km (10 miles) of hiking and biking trails. The Ecological Park above town features a marshland boardwalk (a favorite spot for bald eagles and other birds) and an easy forest trail network marked with interpretive signage. Embark from the community of Alert Bay for a whale watching, fishing or kayak expedition.

Steep climbs may make parts of the island a challenge, so it is recommended that visitors bring their vehicles.

U’mista Cultural Centre, an internationally-renowned cultural centre, showcases the famed “Potlatch Collection” of ceremonial regalia, confiscated from the Kwakwaka’wakw in 1922 and reclaimed from various institutions and private collections around the world.

U’mista is a great place to start a remarkable First Nation cultural experience. Don’t miss the Alert Bay Library-Museum located at 116 Fir Street. The museum offers additional First Nation and other pieces and artifacts found during the early permanent settlement of Alert Bay. Towering above the traditional Big House in ‘Yalis is the world’s tallest Totem Pole, carved in two sections by six Kwakwaka’wakw artists (it was originally 53m/173 feet, but the top 10 feet of the pole fell to the ground during a storm in 2007). Watch a traditional dance performance by the T’sasala Cultural Group in the Big House, the only time the Big House is open for viewing. Regular

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

31

Steven Fines © www.natureone.ca

Quatsino

“step back to a simpler way of life still linked to the land...”

www . quatsino . org In 1894 Norwegian colonists arrived in Quatsino Sound aboard the steamship Mischief, with shared dreams of a prosperous life in this remote North Island wilderness.

They chose an idyllic stretch of sunny shoreline and began work to build their new community.

The land, forest and sea provided an income for these hardy souls and the community soon became a central hub for the Quatsino Sound area, providing goods and services to support the influx of settlers and job seekers.

Nestled near the government wharf is historic St. Olaf’s Anglican Church. Dating back to 1897 and originally built as a small one room school, it is one of the oldest buildings still in use on northern Vancouver Island. The ‘new’ Quatsino Elementary School was built

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in 1933 overlooking the government wharf, is one of the last one-room schools in BC. With a minimum enrollment of just six students, it offers a unique and fantastic educational opportunity. The community’s Bergh Cove Organic Schoolyard Garden now shares this site and provides fresh produce during the harvest season.

The Quatsino Museum & Archives, just across from the government dock, provides free highspeed internet access and light snacks in addition to offering a glimpse at Quatsino’s rich and diverse 121 year history. Open from 1 to 2 PM daily during July & August and every weekend from September to June. Special openings can be arranged by contacting quatsino.museum@recn.ca.

Today the tiny hamlet of Quatsino, which is 15 minutes by water taxi (Quatsino Sound Marine Transport 250-949-6358) and 6 minutes by air (Air Cab 250-949-6371) , is a quiet place where change comes slowly. With just 8 km of gravel road connecting homes, fishing lodges and retreats that stretch single file along the shoreline, residents and visitors alike take pleasure in a breath of fresh air as they step back to a simpler way of life still linked to the land, forest and sea. Immerse yourself in solitude at one of Quatsino’s picturesque lodges, experience the abundance on a guided fishing trip, kayak along the quiet inland waters of the Sound or surround yourself in natural beauty while hiking the Colony Lake Trail.

DID YOU KNOW: When it closed in 1995 the Island Copper Mine, located between Port Hardy and Coal Harbour, was deeper than the Red Sea and at one time was the lowest excavated point on earth.

Coal Harbour Road trips on the North Island are a treat for those who relish leisurely, spontaneous explorations that deliver memorable vistas, dozens of digital snapshots and many surprising rewards. One such detour off the highway just south of Port Hardy leads to Coal Harbour, a marine hub providing access to the fertile fishing grounds of Quatsino Sound.

Over the last century Coal Harbour has been a mining town, military base and whaling station. Today it’s the perfect launch point for fishing charters, boaters, kayakers and campers heading into the scenic coastal waters and old-growth forests of Vancouver Island North’s wilderness areas. Explore Coal

Harbour itself to learn the history and meet some of the locals, among whom is a growing community of artisans.

Step back in time and take a look into the history of Coal Harbour. There is a small space at the Aircab float plane hangar, near the marina, that is filled with a private collection, open to visitors, of local artifacts from the town’s logging and whaling periods as well as its time during the Second World War as a Royal Canadian Air Force base.

On the grounds is the mammoth 6m/20 ft jawbone of a blue whale – evidence that Canada’s last whaling station operated here until the mid-1960s.

The ultimate experience in Sportfishing and kayaking on the west coast of Vancouver Island, B.C. Canada

Something old is new again in Coal Harbour.

The Hornsby Steam Crawler, a one-of-akind, custom build steam crawler tractor has returned to the community for public display.

This unique piece of machinery was inspired by the Yukon Gold Rush and customized for use in the forest industry on the British Columbia Coast.

Boaters get provisions, coffee and sandwiches at the Whale’s Reach community store.

Quatsino First Nations operate a marina in Coal Harbour that has serviced moorage, public washrooms, showers and a laundromat.

QUATSINO LODGE

Located in Quatsino Sound, Quatsino Lodge is the perfect choice for fishing adventures, corporate getaways and family vacations.

Phone/Fax 250.338.7473

TF 1.866.279.5061 www.quatsinolodge.com thequatsinolodge@gmail.com

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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A million dollar view....

Passionate about ethical viewing & conservation!

GLEN LYON INN & SUITES Port Hardy Modern Port Hardy Accommodations

with Nature at Its Best! rated “excellent”

Wir sprechen Deutsch!

contact us for group tours & custom charters whale watching & grizzly bear excursions

1-866-501-6722 or 250-287-7008

adventurewhalewatching.com campbell river across from fisherman’s Wharf

Enjoy nature with us!

FISHING, KAYAKING, WHALE-WATCHING, HIKING

44 deluxe rooms with spectacular ocean views Business suites and family rooms | Pub and restaurant on premises | Close to town and ferry terminal Free wireless internet Small meeting room (10-12 people)

www.glenlyoninn.com 6435 Hardy Bay Rd, Port Hardy

250-949-7115 | 1.877.949.7115 34 | www.northislandgazette.com

Panoramic ocean view from the rooms.

Ferry shuttle available through North Island Transportation.

Pet-friendly rooms available • Wireless internet in the building Senior/corporate discount rates available off the peak season.

Some triple rooms available.

All rooms are accessible by stairs only.

www.northshoreinnph.com

NORTH SHORE INN reservation@northshoreinnph.com 7370 Market Street, Port Hardy 250-949-8500 • 1-877-949-8516

Pacific white-sided dolphin © Destination BC/ Jordan Manley

“ Orcas, humpbacks and dolphins can be found offshore in Queen Charlotte Strait...”

Port Hardy Live the Adventure

www . visitporthardy . com visitor centre 1.866.427.3901

Easy access to the great outdoors, creature comforts, shopping and dining, cooperative and First Nations art galleries, plenty of accommodation options and ancient archeological finds. It’s all available in Vancouver Island North’s largest centre (population: 4,000), a friendly town with developing cultural and eco-tourism industries that sits pretty at the very edge of the coastal wilderness.

BC Ferries’ famous “Inside Passage” long-haul sailing to Prince Rupert on the mainland arrives and departs from nearby Bear Cove, as do summer-only sailings on the “Discovery Coast” connector route. The Inside Passage journey was recently rated as one of the most beautiful ferry trips in the world by the discerning editors of Travel+Leisure magazine. Port Hardy is also the main departure point for water taxis and land shuttles destined for Cape Scott Provincial Park’s magnificent North Coast Trail.

“Live the Adventure” is Port Hardy’s motto, and many ferry passengers wisely book rooms and explore this remote yet civilized part of the world for a few fascinating days before or after their sailings. Landbased adventurers discover hiking, caving and wildlife such as bald eagles and black bears, the latter frequently seen grazing alongside local roads and wandering the banks of the Quatse River. Wildlifewatching daytrips depart from a bustling town marina packed with fishing vessels and visiting pleasure craft. Orcas, humpbacks and dolphins can be found offshore in Queen Charlotte Strait while longer treks out to sea head to grizzly bear country in Smith and Knight Inlets along the mainland coast.

Also nearby is the big-wave surfing at Raft Cove, world-class scuba diving at God’s Pocket Provincial Marine Park, and freshwater fishing in local lakes and river systems. Coal Harbour, just 20 minutes away by car, provides boaters and kayakers with a convenient launch point for trips to the wild west coast via Quatsino Sound. A bumpy ride of less than an hour past the village of Holberg leads to the windswept, see-forever beaches of Cape Scott Provincial Park.

Curious adventurers meanwhile, can get a taste of an eerie subterranean world at Devil’s Bath, one geological wonder in a series of them included in the Alice Lake Loop tour.

Another pleasurable option is to simply hang out in Port Hardy and relish the myriad of diversions found within town limits. Picnic with the family on stretches of sand at Storey’s Beach. Shop for locally produced art, crafts, and seafood (the town is famous for

its smoked and candied salmon).

Snap pictures of the chainsaw carvings at Carrot Park. Thrill to stock car and motocross races in the summer. Step back into the past at the Port Hardy Museum and Archives. Check out the work of local artists at the cooperative art gallery. Or take a pleasant, forest-shaded riverside stroll from the marina to the Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre, an interpretive exhibition space and hatchery rolled into one modern facility.

Totem poles dotted throughout Port Hardy are a tribute to the people who have lived off the resources of land and sea here for over 8,000 years. Today’s Kwakiutl First Nation reside in Fort Rupert, a few minutes south of town with its colourful murals, totems, cemetery, and white shell beach. Internationally renowned carvers demonstrate their skills, crack jokes and share stories at the Copper Maker Gallery, a favorite stop for art collectors.

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Marine Electronics & Supplies

✮ Certified inboard/ outboard mechanic ✮ Sales & Service

Wildwoods is the place to come for great camping & fishing.

Full facilities ■ Small boat wharf Pets allowed ■ Showers and more!

Family owned & operated

Stryker Electronics Ltd. 6710 Hardy Bay Road Port Hardy

250-949-8022 » 1-888-839-8022 stryker@cablerocket.com

Day Tours 250-902-WOLF (9653)

Departure Point: Port McNeill

Sea Wolf Adventures invites you to come and journey with us to view and learn about local grizzly bears, whales, dolphins, and First Nations culture on an intimate tour with few guests: 6 people max. Breakfast, lunch, and drinks included. Marine head onboard.

www.seawolfadventures.ca 36 | www.northislandgazette.com

Wildwoods Campground

250.949.6753

Located on Bear Cove Road

Box 801, Port Hardy, BC or 250.949.7454 www.wildwoodscampsite.com

DID YOU KNOW: In Port Hardy, you can camp in an ancient forest and still be within walking distance to town.

Red cedar in the rainforest © Destination BC/ Tom Ryan

The town’s roots are saluted annually during FILOMI Days on the third weekend in July.

FILOMI stands for ‘fishing-logging-mining,’ and its namesake festival has become Port Hardy’s signature summer event. The festivities include a salmon derby, boatbuilding contest, street hockey and volleyball tournaments, the Tri-Port Dragon Boat Society Regatta, a parade, and spectacular fireworks display. Summer gets underway in June with Oceans Day. In the fall, costumed kids spill out on to Market Street for trickor-treating during the Costume Crawl, while grinning jack-o’-lanterns and a haunted house highlight family friendly Halloween fun during the Pumpkin Patch Walk. And Christmas is heralded with a Santa Claus parade in early December.

Hiking is one of Port Hardy’s most popular pastimes, and there are trails galore for all fitness levels in town and within a short drive.

The newest is the Fort Rupert Trail, which follows an ancient First Nations path from Bear Cove Road to Storey’s Beach; the hourlong one-way ramble winds through the forest, across a boardwalk and alongside a sparkling lake. Far more rugged and challenging is the 11 km out-and-back Tex Lyon Trail, which can be accessed from Storey’s Beach. The Marble River Trail off the road to Port Alice offers an easy hike out to salmon-spawning viewing areas at Bear Falls. The Nahwitti Trail near Holberg is another gentle route through old-growth giants to Nahwitti Lake.

And day hikers get a teaser of the marathon hiking possibilities in Cape Scott Provincial Park by driving west past the Shoe Tree to the park’s trailhead and walking the 2.5 km out to breathtaking San Josef Bay, the trail takes about 45 minutes on a well groomed trail to get to the beach where you will walk out on to a huge stretch of white sand. The trail to San Josef Bay is accessible for high clearance “BOB” style strollers and power assisted wheelchairs equipped for gravel trails with some sloping sections.

The staff at the Visitor Centre is happy to assist with information on local attractions and activities. It’s open year-round in the heart of town on Market Street. Make your choice here from a diverse slate of accommodations that includes hotels, B&Bs, cabins, cottages, hostels and campgrounds.

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Open 7 days a week to serve you

Your one stop fishing store!

• Camping • Fishing • Housewares

• Hardware & much much more!

Ace Hardware

7070 Market Street, Port Hardy

250-949-7155

North Coast Trail Shuttle Cape Scott Water Taxi ONE STOP LAND & WATER TRANSPORTATION.

Port Hardy to the Cape Scott North Coast Trail North Coast Trail Shuttle runs from May 1 – Sept.15 Cells: 250-902-8208 • 250-902-8202

www.northcoasttrailshuttle.com

Quarterdeck INN & MARINA RESORT

Let us package your experience of a lifetime!

Deluxe facilities • 40 ocean view rooms • 150-slip marina with power & water Fuel dock & propane • Showers & laundry • Tackle shop and convenience items Meeting room • Quarterdeck Pub & Restaurant • Liquor store

www.quarterdeckresort.net

Enjoy our Daily Drink & Food Specials served from 11am-11pm Let us serve you in the restaurant, banquet room or your favorite outdoor or indoor spot.

6555 Hardy Bay Rd, Port Hardy, BC • 250-949-6922 | 1.877.902.0459 38 | www.northislandgazette.com

San Josef Bay, Cape Scott Provincial Park © Boomer Jerritt

“ the road past holberg leads to the windswept, see forever beaches of cape scott provincial park.”

Quatse River Regional Park & Campground

rt Hardy BC

8400 Byng Road - Po

Sani-Dump 62 tent or RV Sites in Laundry FREE Wifi hotspot - Co FREE hot showers dly Hiking trails - Pet Frien

gles How many bears & ea atse campground? can you spot at the Qu

pground.ca www.quatsecam 250-949-2395 1-866-949-2395 •

Visit Us!

8400 Byng Road, Port Hardy, BC

For hours of operation and more information call or email us at

(250) 902-0336 info@thesalmoncentre.org *Use the code: NIGuide2016 to receive 1 FREE Adult Admission!

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1.

PHOTOS: 1. Experience Sport Fish Charters - like nowhere else! 2. Explore local beaches with kids. 3. Camp at Cape Scott & hike the North Coast Trail.

4. Explore Salmon rivers & fish the day away! 5. Relax on Storey’s Beach year round. 6. Shop in Port Hardy 7. Watch Black Bears in the wild 2.

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3.

4.

PORT HARDY

VANCOUVER ISLAND

VICTORIA

PORT HARDY VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE VISIT US AT 7250 Market Street Port Hardy, British Columbia www.visitporthardy.com

1.866.427.3901 250.949.7622 #visitporthardy

Visit Port Hardy. Live the Adventure! Pack for all kinds of weather, pick up a fresh lunch from a local eatery and step into a rugged, rich, resilient world that will live in your thoughts forever! Experience all there is to do inside & outdoors; find out more at www.visitporthardy.com #visitporthardy 5.

6.

7.

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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Harbour, Port McNeill © Boomer Jerritt

Port McNeill gateway to the broughton archipelago www . portmcneill . ca visitor centre 250.956.3881

This friendly, unpretentious and welcoming ecotourism capital is two hours north of Campbell River and four hours drive from BC Ferries terminals in Nanaimo. That’s not far given that the town provides direct access to the pristine channels, mazy waterways and sheltered moorages of the worldrenowned Broughton Archipelago Provincial Marine Park. Better still, its central location on Vancouver Island’s northeast coastline makes it a great spot for spontaneous and unplanned jaunts around the region as a whole, especially with Alert Bay and Sointula just short sails away from Port McNeill’s own BC Ferries dock.

Many visitors settle in for multi-night stays by booking local accommodations, pitching tents or parking RVs, then checking out the town’s amenities. Learn about the area’s ancient and contemporary history at the Port McNeill Heritage Museum, which houses a rich collection of artifacts inside a rustic log building. Catch a movie or concert at the local theatre (check for schedule). Play a round or two with an ocean view at the par-three golf course. Dine on wide array of seafood or a range of ethnic fare – Greek, Mexican, Italian and Chinese included.

Or take photos of friends and loved ones dwarfed by the world’s largest Sitka Spruce burl. (A burl is the unique outgrowth of wood that grows from the trunks of big trees).

One favorite destination in town is the seawall and newly expanded harbour area.

Drink in the ocean views here along with a cup of barista-prepared coffee as bald eagles circle above a busy waterfront dotted with pleasure craft, whale watching vessels, fishing boats and float planes. The marina is especially busy from May to September

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as boaters pull in to refuel and pick up provisions before heading back out into one of the planet’s most beautiful and pristine maritime environments.

Cormorant Island and Sointula on Malcolm Island, two wonderful destinations with plenty of heritage, history and natural splendor of their own. Back on terra firma in Port McNeill, hikers enjoy striding along the Schoolhouse Creek trail next to a salmon enhancement stream that runs through town. The Port McNeill Rotary Trail reaching out from the townsite and along Highway 19 is excellent for those extra-long walks

The postcard Johnstone Strait and Broughton Archipelago, with dozens of small, undeveloped islands, is worldrenowned for whale watching, sea kayaking and scuba diving. Each of these pastimes is expertly served by an array of guides, suppliers and rental operations – all of them providing ready access to the region’s spectacular offshore wildlife. The area is Enjoy 20 minute scenic tours from one famed for killer whales, of 4 great locations. humpback whales, Pacific white-sided Give us a call for your dolphins, Steller sea * * Adventure of a lifetime! lions, Minke whales, harbour seals, Dall’s PORT MCNEILL CAMPBELL porpoise and a who’s RIVER who of seabirds. Local guides offer everything from daytrips to week-long adventures.

There’s also a host of fishing charter operations here whose expertise includes finding halibut and * * the five Pacific salmon Custom tours available species - chinook, Photo shoots, wildlife, VICTORIA sockeye, pink, chum NANAIMO Mountain Top picnics and coho. with Champagne! *Cost based on 3 passenger minimum.

Island hoppers take

West Coast

Helicopter Tours 125 $125

$

90

$

BC Ferries sailings to nearby Alert Bay on

175

$

250.956.2244 (Port McNeill), 250.286.8863 (Campbell River), 250.754.5448 (Nanaimo/ Victoria)

Haida-Way Motor Inn

+ LOCALS KNOW: Port McNeill is a great home base for all North Island activities whether by land or sea. Its central location makes it convenient for all tourist experiences and adventures. or distance jogging. The forest surrounding the town features a network of mountain bike trails for the two-wheeled adventurers - maps can be found at the local visitor centre, these also make for lovely forest hiking trails as well.

The town’s population swells in the summer months for the annual Orcafest, a weekend bonanza featuring an open-air market, parade, and slo-pitch baseball tournament. Dragracing enthusiasts take in the heart-pounding action at the Rumble on the Runway series.

There is also the Logger Sports with such events as axe throwing and hot saw. Those who want to get away from it all can strap in for flightseeing excursions

via plane or helicopter. The whirlybirds can also do drop-off and pick-up runs to the region’s remote and wild backcountry.

But summer isn’t the only primetime for a visit to Port McNeill and the north Island. Mount Cain, Vancouver Island North’s local ski hill near the community of Woss, is a super-scenic winter getaway for powder-lovers and downhill sliders. No need to get behind the wheel, from Port McNeill Mount Waddington Regional Transit connects with the Mount Cain ski shuttle so you can ride as a passenger all the way up.

Upgraded rooms at a competitive rate Non-smoking kitchen units Complimentary breakfast* | Free WIFI access Microwave, Fridge & Coffee maker in each room Cafe, Dining room and Pub Cold beer & wine store onsite 1-800-956-3373 OR 1-250-956-3373 1817 Campbell Way, Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0

www.pmhotels.com *included w/ regular room rate

Complete Shopping Port McNeill 1705 Campbell Way

Groceries • Produce • Meat Dairy • Deli • Bakery Huge Selection • Friendly Staff Open daily 8 am - 9 pm

250-956-4404 www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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Broughton Archipelago This is one of the most breathtakingly beautiful spots on the planet with a relaxed pace and expansive wilderness area. The unimaginable natural beauty and solitude are just a couple of the things that make this region such an irresistible marine destination. Visitors with go-anywhere freedom can immerse themselves in the midst of it all at water level - either by kayak, pleasure boat or on guided wildlife expeditions.

The region’s legendary sailing and paddling expeditions head deep into the Broughton Archipelago, a mazy region of waterways and numerous islands large and small

44 | www.northislandgazette.com

clustered northeast of Port McNeill beyond Sointula and Alert Bay. Every traveller’s experience here will be unique yet it’s sure to include deep inhales of crisp ocean air, open-water adventures, long stretches of shoreline exploration and a few tricky tidal crossings. Paddle or sail where you choose into impossibly scenic inlets or onto white-shell beaches. Camp under a sky alight with a million stars or fall asleep while rocking gently in a secluded moorage.

Wilderness enthusiasts looking for ecofriendly adventures will find luxuriously remote floating lodge accommodation here capped by access to health services such

as acupressure massage amid spectacular wilderness scenery. Most memorably of all, there’s sure to be sightings of seals, orcas or even humpback whales. Waterproof digital cameras will get a serious workout, guaranteed.

Echo Bay on Gilford Island is one of the region’s main ports of call, either by water or floatplane. It’s home to a full-service marina as well as a remarkable museum and replica hand-loggers shack created by author, naturalist and retired fisherman Billy Proctor. Shop for art, dine at a pig roast, take a wilderness painting class and head into the forest on guided forays for

Humpback Surfacing © Steven Fines - www.natureone.ca

Kayaking © Boomer Jerritt

“...camp under a sky alight with a million stars or fall asleep while rocking gently in a secluded moorage.”

broughton archipelago

PADDLER’S INN

wild food. Marinas, affordable lodgings and oceanside campgrounds can also be found up Tribune Channel, past the narrows into Drury Inlet and throughout this postcard region.

Those seeking a more solitary communion with nature can easily find it in one of the many secluded coves noted in boaters’ guides to the Broughton Archipelago. In every way, the Broughton Archipelago welcomes your visit and can enrich your life by connecting you with its peaceful nature.

- Floathouse Cabins & Inn - Waterfront Cabins - Kitchenettes or Group Catering - Water Taxi Service - Kayak Rentals & Transport - On site Massage - Forest Trails, Lake & Sauna - Peace & Quiet

+ LOCALS KNOW: The slower you go the more you see!

250.230.0088 | www.paddlersinn.ca www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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TELEGRAPH

COVE Resort & Campground a truely unique EXPERIENCE 120 Site wooded RV Park & Campsite.

NEW!

Trailhead for Blinkhorn Trail

Campfires permitted and firewood available.

Wastell Manor, 5 room Antique Hotel.

20 fully contained cabins and houses for rent.

Many have woodstoves.

140 berth Marina and launch ramp.

Marine gas, coffee shop, general store, shops, wireless Internet available.

Killer Whale Cafe, Old Satery Pub

Salmon Barbeques on Wednesday & Saturday evenings at the restaurant.

Great Sport Fishing Area Fishing Charters for Salmon & Halibut available.

46 | www.northislandgazette.com

Telegraph Cove Step back in time and set sail into a marine wonderland at Telegraph Cove. This historic and picturesque waterfront village is perched at the entrance to Johnstone Strait, the Broughton Archipelago Marine Park and the Blackfish Archipelago. A top-10 winner of best towns to visit in a poll of Canadian travel writers, it’s among the last surviving boardwalk communities on the west coast.

Kayakers, wildlife viewers, pleasure boaters, scuba divers and sports-fishing enthusiasts clearly agree as they book early to avoid disappointment and magnetically return to this secluded, truly magical dot on the Vancouver Island North map.

Whale watching vessels set out on daytrips and multi-day adventures during the May to October season. Visitors here have the opportunity to enter into a rare, precious and respectful experience in wildlife viewing.

The density and abundance of marine mammals in this area is truly astonishing. It is common to have the privilege of spotting killer whales (orca), humpback whales,

Minke whales, Steller sea lions, Dall’s and harbour porpoise, harbour seals and Pacific white-sided dolphins. River otters and black bears are also often sighted.

These waters are one of most predictable places to see killer whales in the wild. The area is frequented by both the mammaleating killer whale population known as “Bigg’s killer whales” (or “Transients”) and the inshore fish-eating killer whale population known as the “Northern Residents.” The latter come to the area to feed on salmon and to rub their bellies on “rubbing beaches”. They are the only population of killer whales in the world known to have this rubbing behaviour.

The beaches they most often use have been recognized as critical habitat and are protected as a sanctuary known as the Dr. Michael Bigg Ecological Reserve at Robson Bight. Both the land and water areas of the Reserve are not open to the public.

The Whale Interpretive Centre (WIC) in Telegraph Cove provides an additional

Sea Lions © Steven Fines - www.natureone.ca

visitors here have the opportunity to enter into a rare, precious and respectful experience in wildlife viewing .

opportunity to learn about local marine life. This wonderful facility offers a highly educational and engaging experience that focuses on the biology of local marine mammals, the threats they face, and how we can all work toward their conservation.

The WIC is home to a fascinating collection of marine mammal skeletons and interactive displays. The feature skeleton is that of a 60’ (17 meter) fin whale.

The number of marine mammals is testament to the productivity of this current rich area and the resulting large numbers of salmon and other fish on which the marine mammals feed. This means that this one of the best areas on Vancouver Island for sport fishermen to haul in a prize catch.

Telegraph Cove’s history is embodied in its restored wooden buildings and boardwalk.

In 1912, it was chosen as the northern terminus for the telegraph line from Campbell River and earned a name in the process. A lumber mill and salmon saltery followed. During the Second World War

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viewing daytrips) along with a the Royal Canadian Air Force restaurant and pub, a general operated a sawmill here with a store and two patio cafés. large crew. The lumber cut was Result: It’s a pleasure to unwind used for building the airports at Port Hardy, Coal Harbour, Bella Bella, and Price Rupert. Its genesis into a whalewatching mecca The MV Gikumi, built in 1954 began in 1980 with

by Fred Wastell, was British the launch of BC’s Columbia’s first whale watching first such enterprise.

DID YOU KNOW:

A 20-minute drive

Farewell Harbour Wilderness and Fishing Lodge 250-902-WOLF (9653)

Departure Point: Direct flights from Campbell River to the lodge. Sea taxi from Telegraph Cove.

Culturally Immersive Experiences Wilderness and Wildlife Experiences World class salmon fishing Traditional and contemporary cuisine First Nation family owned ~ Family atmosphere All inclusive packages; including return airfare

www.seawolfadventures.com

Your Gateway to

vessel. She has lived in Telegraph Cove her whole life and still resides in Telegraph Cove today.

south of Port McNeill and yet still a world away, Telegraph Cove is home to a resort with historic cabins along the boardwalk, condo-style lodging, two campgrounds, RV parks, vacation rental homes and a pair of full-service marinas.

The town’s small array of businesses includes its tour operators (whale watching, kayak adventures/rentals, fishing-charters, aboriginal cultural tours, and grizzly bear

here in comfort after a day on the water, trading stories about spectacular sightings over a good meal before enjoying a deep sleep in this peaceful getaway destination.

Adventure!

➽ Waterfront Dockside 29 Suites have full kitchens and spectacular views of Telegraph Cove & Johnstone Strait ➽ RV Park - full service - stunning ocean and cove views ➽ Marina & launch - power, water and wide sturdy cedar docks ➽ Orca, Humpback, Porpoise, Dolphin... marine Life at its finest ➽ Outstanding fishing, boating, kayaking and hiking

Now sellingt Waterfrons!

Home Site

Explore the wonders of historic Telegraph Cove

Telegraph Cove Marina & RV PARK 1-250-928-3163 or 1-877-Tel-Cove » www.telegraphcove.ca 48 | www.northislandgazette.com

Mountain Biking © Boomer Jerritt

Sayward www . portofkelseybay . com visitor centre 250.282.0018

Detour off the fast track and take a deep, invigorating breath of clean west coast air as you enter a land of forests, mountains and winding hiking trails on the edge of peaceful Johnston Strait. Sayward is the gateway to Vancouver Island North’s rich bounty of outdoor pleasures. The quaint and rustic village is an hour’s scenic highway drive north of Campbell River and 90 minutes south of Port McNeill.

Get oriented for unscripted, do-it-yourself outdoor adventure by checking in at the wharf at the end of Sayward Road in Kelsey Bay. Here you’ll find maps, accommodation information and friendly advice on area hiking, walking, bicycling, fishing, canoeing, kayaking, camping (by the village pond or oceanside), wildlife/bird watching and killer whale, dolphin and porpoise sightings.

Backpackers and casual hikers explore a trail network that follows ancient First Nations trade routes in criss-crossing what’s aptly named as the Valley of Trails. The Dalrymple Forest Interpretive Trail offers a gentle self-guided stroll to a shaded, moss-scented glade. Test stamina and strength on the challenging Kusam

Klimb, a day-long ascent and return on Mt. H’Kusam; awe-inspiring valley views and lush alpine picnic spots reward those who reach the mile-high summit. White River Provincial Park is a small, undeveloped wilderness area that offers excellent fishing opportunities and protection for important Roosevelt elk and black bear habitat. This scenic park and its old-growth forest were stunning enough for Hollywood to take notice – portions of White River were used as a film site for the movie The Scarlet Letter, filmed here in 1994. Visitors to the park today will find remnants of the film set, including wide boardwalks designed to accommodate horse-drawn carriages.

A short loop trail through the forest leads down to the White River. Along the way, visitors will be rewarded with views of some massive Douglas fir and western red cedar trees – giants which, no doubt, helped White River earn the nickname, “the Cathedral Grove of the North Island.”

Three unserviced campsites in Sayward serve those who trek off the grid. Yet the wilderness has also been tamed in beautiful fashion in a few easily accessible

spots. Nature buffs, couples and family groups wander acres of woodland trails at the Victorian Garden Gate Manor.

Birdwatchers eager for sightings of trumpeter swans, herons, bald eagles and more head for the estuary at the Salmon River Wildlife Reserve or the wheelchairaccessible Kelly’s Trail. Local guides can be hired for fishing expeditions and wildlife viewing.

Sayward’s wharf and community life gets busy in the summer. Artists display their works during summer weekends at Ocean View Gifts in Al’s Room, on the Wharf in Kelsey Bay. This wharf is owned and

www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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operated by Sayward Futures Society, a not for profit organization whose volunteers not only look after the wharf, but also work in the Gift store/Tourist Info Centre. The store carries local artwork, some groceries, snacks and fishing tackle.

An annual vintage car show is held in June. Artists, including world-renowned wood carver Glenn Greensides, display their work at Art in the Park in July. August

features the Oscar Daze slo-pitch baseball tournament on the BC Day long weekend and the Tour de Rock Fishing Derby, a fundraiser for Cops for Cancer, on the third weekend of the month. Fresh produce and good food are great reasons to visit the Saturday farmer’s market before relaxing in Heritage Park in the shade of an oak tree planted in 1936 to mark the coronation of England’s King George IV

Watch for a mysterious steamy ring round the peak of H’Kusam Mountain - the Kwakwaka’wakw called it Hiatsee Saklekum: “Where the breath of the sea lion gathers at the blow-hole”.

CYPRESS COFFEE HUT & GALLERY Pizza ~ Hot Dogs ~ Espresso Latte ~ Cappuccino ~ Fruit Smoothies 16 Flavours of Ice Cream OPEN 11:00 am - 8:00 pm

SAYWARD JUNCTION

GAS & CONVENIENCE Propane | Gas | Diesel | Souvenirs

250.282.3232

COLD BEER & WINE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK COLD BEER AT LIQUOR STORE PRICES

Corner of Sayward turnoff & Island Hwy 50 | www.northislandgazette.com

Sointula Harbour © Dan Hillertt

CYPRESS TREE

+ LOCALS KNOW:

Rainbow © Dan Hillertt

Worldwide, Malcolm Island is the only place where old fishing nets are washed, cut with a particular technique, and woven together to create unique rugs by local ladies.

Sointula a place of harmony

www . sointulainfo . ca visitor centre 250.973.2001

A fascinating history, bikes to borrow, a historic co-operative store and plenty of rural charm and character makes Sointula on sprawling Malcolm Island a memorable getaway from the already remote pleasures of Vancouver Island North. The town’s name means “place of harmony” in Finnish. It was established in 1901 when a colony of Finnish settlers arrived with utopian dreams. While their ambitious plans were derailed within a decade, visitors will quickly learn that these visionaries chose the right place for a fresh air and salt water paradise on earth.

Most visitors today arrive via a 25-minute BC Ferries sailing from Port McNeill.

Many park their cars and travel either as pedestrians or cyclists. From May to September, those without bikes can

borrow one for the day by checking in at the Sointula Resource Centre right off the ferry dock. The island invites exploration, and a car is helpful when heading to popular destinations like Bere Point, Mitchell Bay or the Pulteney Point Lighthouse. Boaters utilize the good moorage in the Malcolm Island Lions Harbour.

Hikers rack up the mileage on the Mateoja Heritage trail, the path of early pioneer homesteaders. Ocean breezes and easy strolling are in store on the Kaleva Road Walkway, a 3 km seaside interpretive trail overlooking Broughton Strait. Bere Point Regional Park and campground is the starting point for the Beautiful Bay trail, which winds along a rocky ridge that offers breathtaking ocean glimpses. Some hikers

are lucky enough to witness killer whales rubbing on the pebble beach below the viewing platform at the start of the trail.

Visit the local museum, one of the best for its size, to learn about the island’s unique history. Drop into BC’s longest running cooperative store, formed as the Sointula Co-operative Store Association in 1909 (open Tues to Sat). A delectable bakery, a burger joint and a seasonal restaurant provide a good range of food options, and it’s possible to shop for island made art and crafts at a few shops and home studios. The Sointula Resource Centre Society’s visitor information staff can point the way to the island’s campgrounds, B&B establishments and other accommodation options.

On beautiful Malcolm Island, enjoy a relaxing camping experience.

Close to ferry and all ameneties that Sointula has to offer.

We are happy to provide RV sites with electricity Tent and RV sites just a step off the beach - Showers/Flush toilets Firewood - Pet friendly

185 Kaleva Rd, Malcolm Island, BC, Canada

Phone: 250-949-0201 Fax: 250-973-6143

www.harmonyshores.ca

harmonyshorescamping@gmail.com www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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DID YOU KNOW:

Zeballos

Zeballos ©

For access to Kyuquot, Fair Harbour and the wilds of the west coast, Zeballos is a great jumping off point with the accommodation and services provided in the village.

www.zeballos.com

an outdoor adventure destination on the shelterd inland pacific coastline of vancouver island north.

It’s a perfect jumping-off point for Kyuquot Sound and the marine getaways at Catala and Nuchatlitz provincial parks.

Hire maritime guides and their boats in town or bring your own transportation. To get here, head north for 15 minutes from Woss on Highway 19, then travel west for about an hour

on a gravel logging road. The scenery, rewarding vistas and remote beauty of the place fully justifies the trip.

waters of the open Pacific. Or cast lines for cut-throat and rainbow trout in the Zeballos and Kaouk rivers. Scuba divers explore the rock walls at Tahsis Narrows, surfers head for Nootka Island, and birdwatchers congregate in local estuaries.

This was once booming goldSituated on the shore of Zeballos Inlet this scenic village provides rush country. Between 1938 paddle-prone visitors with easy kayak access to at the Zeballos and 1942, a bustling town boat launch. Depart from here on typically calm waters for a short rose practically overnight as daytrip to Little Zeballos or do a half day paddle, then explore the the fever peaked with the trails and visit the museum. extraction of $13 million in After enjoying the relaxed pace of Zeballos, motorists can follow claims. Production halted postthe gravel road to Fair Harbour, a great launching point for marine World War II when the price of adventures. Gorgeous, beach-lined Rugged Point Marine Park is an gold dropped and material and easy day paddle from the shoreline. labour costs spiked, leaving stores of the precious metal in the ground. Those who remained turned to forestry and fish processing, key industries to this day. Explore regional There’s Gold In Them Hills! history at the family-friendly Heritage Buildings, Self GuidedWalking Tours, Heritage Museum Zeballos Heritage Museum.

Outdoor Recreation Paradise Sport fishing is a favorite way Sportfishing, Kayaking, Walking Trails, Birdwatching, Diving, Rock Climbing to get out on the water in Visitor Services pursuit of salmon, halibut, red Restaurants, Accommodations, Camping snapper and rockfish. Troll in and RV Sites, Boat Launch, Store, Fuel the relatively sheltered Zeballos Call us at (250) 761-4229 between 8:30-4:30 Mon. to Fri. Inlet. Cruise towards the or check us out online at www.zeballos.com Esperanza Inlet and the wilder

52 | www.northislandgazette.com

Come, Explore & Discover

One of BC’s best-kept secret ski hills, plentiful hiking trails, watersports-friendly lakes, intriguing local history and a largely unspoiled natural landscape: It’s all part of the adventure that awaits active explorers who turn off Highway 19 at Woss, some 130 km north of Campbell River.

Logging has been a mainstay occupation here in the Nimpkish Valley since European settlers first arrived.

In fact, Woss is the site of the only operational railroad logging enterprise in Canada.

Steam Locomotive 113, built in 1920 for rail logging, is a historic local treasure that honours the community’s heritage and is now a registered Heritage Site along with the Woss Fire Lookout located just north of the community.

Beyond the logging zones are emerald-green parks and backcountry wilderness. The Nimpkish Valley Ecological

Reserve protects the oldest trees in the region. Schoen means “beautiful” in German, and it’s exactly the right word for Schoen Lake Provincial Park (open March to October).

Boaters launch from its gravel beaches, and climbers head for the heights via the trail network at Schoen. Pinder Peak and Rugged Mountain also have wilderness trail networks for adventuresome climbers. For a birds-eye view of the valley, hike the fairly short (1.8 km), fairly steep (rope-assisted sections), Woss Lookout Trail and take in the rugged vista from the recently resorted fire lookout tower.

North of Woss is Nimpkish Lake, a breezy favourite with windsurfers and kiteboarders.

Get a taste of the caving experience at Little Huson Regional Park’s “walk-in” limestone caves and unique land formations.

Powder blues aren’t an issue for North Island skiers.

Mount Cain © Boomer Jerritt

Woss & Nimpkish Valley hike the woss lookout trail and take in the rugged vista.

Open on weekends and select Monday’s during the ski season (conditions permitting), Mount Cain is a funky, community-run, family-oriented resort virtually free of line-ups. With room aplenty to carve sweeping ‘s’ patterns into the snow that’s piled up during the week, enthusiasts ride the t-bar lifts, inhale pure oxygen and test themselves on 18 runs and 457 metres of vertical drop. Caféstyle meals, slope-side accommodations and affordable lift prices contribute to the relaxed vibes. Off-season, Mount Cain’s high alpine meadows attract hikers and wildlife watchers.

Discover Vancouver Island’s best

POWDER Visit us for your next ski vacation 1-888-668-6622 www.mountcain.com www.vancouverislandnorth.ca

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Grizzly Bears of Knight inlet

1-888-643-9319 • 1-250-928-3090 contact@tiderip.com www.grizzlycanada.com

54 | www.northislandgazette.com

nature

adventure

history

Whale Watch telegraph cove

www.stubbs-island.com British ColumBia’s 1st Whale WatChing Company – Founded 1980

ReseRvations 1-800-665-3066 stubbs island Whale Watching is dedicated to ethical wildlife viewing, education and conservation.

rated “excellent”