June 2011 Spain Destination Guide by Canadian Traveller

A Canadian’s Guide To

Vibrant Cities heritage treasures flamenco food

A SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT TO THE JUNE 2011 ISSUE OF CANADIAN TRAVELLER

Asturias

Galicia

Cantabria Pais Vasco/Euskadi

La Rioja

Castilla y Leon

Navarra

Catalunya Aragon

Madrid

Dear Friends of Spain, I am delighted to be given the opportunity to share with you this new Guide about Spain developed by Canadian Traveller in collaboration with the Tourist Office of Spain in Canada. It is aimed to bring Spain a little bit closer to you and to showcase the best my country has to offer as a tourist destination. Reading through these pages you will learn about the history of this enchanting country, product of the many different peoples that contributed to the enrichment of its cultural legacy throughout the centuries, and you will also find out how Spain is nowadays a modern country that encompasses respect for its traditional heritage with modernity, offering great quality services, an amazing gastronomy and…lots of sunshine ! We invite you to learn more about Spain, and we hope to greet you there sometime in the future.

Extremadura Castilla la Mancha

ad unidana m i m c Ca Valen

Minorca

Mallorca Ibiza

Andalucia

Murcia

Canary Islands

Jorge Rubio Consul in Charge of Tourism Affairs in Canada

Formentera

Balearics

Inside Viva Espana!

The Wonders Of Spain

Spain’s Special Routes

Madrid – The Pulse Of The Nation

Barcelona – Catalan Capital

Regional Specialties

Just Do It In Spain

SPAIN – A SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT TO THE JUNE 2011 ISSUE OF CANADIAN TRAVELLER Published 12 times a year by

Written by: Christine Potter On the Cover: Valencia Photo Credit: MIRCEA BEZERGHEANU/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

201-2080 Hartley Avenue Coquitlam, BC Canada V3K 6W5 Tel: (604) 699-9990 Fax: (604) 699-9993

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Viva EspaË&#x153;na!

Spainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vast coastline draws watersport lovers for windsurfing, sailing, diving, fishing and cruising.

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Canadian Traveller 20

Dmitry Tsvetkov/Shutterstock.com

Flamenco is passionate, it's intense and it is originally from Anadalucia.

More things grow in the garden than the gardener sows, goes an

Top 10 Reasons To Visit Spain

old Spanish proverb. It’s an apt epithet for travellers to Spain, who

1. Flamenco. Originating in Andalucia, it communicates passion and pride. If you’re in Barcelona check out Tablao Flamenco Cordobes on Las Ramblas for some of the best. (www.tablaocordobes.com).

invariably find more than we expect. Food varies from region to region, just like the dining customs. You might choose a culinary theme taking in the seafood along the Atlantic coast like sea bream (besugo), hake (merluza), and other cold-water fish, or regional meats (pork, and the famous pata negra smoked ham, for instance) and local vegetables and fruits. The savours of Spain can be an adventure. Mainland Spain accounts for three-quarters of the Iberian Peninsula, and within its boundaries are numerous cultures and customs. Outsiders tend to think of Andalucia’s customs as typically Spanish: the breeding of the fiercest bulls, the training of the best matadors, the gypsy flamenco dancers, and so on. But they are uniquely Andalucian, even though found in other areas of Spain. Along the Galician coast, legacies from eighth-centuryBC Celtic settlers are found in customs such as bagpipe playing, traditional moonlight dances, and ancestor worship. Here, too, is the Costa de Morte, so named for the numerous shipwrecks off this coast. Further east, dinosaur tracks have been found in Asturias. When it comes to activities, Spain has them all, on and below land and sea, and in the air: hot-air ballooning, paragliding, sailing, diving, cycling, hiking and spelunking to name a few. And let’s not forget the colourful festivals, ranging from running with the bulls in Pamplona to mock battles between Christians and Moors.

4. A bullfight. Put your sensibilities on hold and experience the spectacle, typically running from April until September. There will be blood. 5. The beaches. Spain’s 4,000 kilometres of sunny coastline draw thousands to its 520 Blue Flag beaches. (Blue Flag is a global ecological award.) 6. The Alhambra Palace in Granada. A great legacy from the Moors, it was the childhood home of Queen Catherine, first wife of England’s Henry VIII. (Her parents Ferdinand and Isabella drove the Moors from Spain.) 7. Tapas. Often eaten as the evening meal. Sometimes free. 8. The parties. You’re gonna have fun, fun, fun… especially in Ibiza, party capital of the world. It’s wild. 9. S ports. With all that coast, sailing is hot. Wind surfing, sky diving, and river rafting too. Marathons are big in Barcelona and Madrid. Did we mention golf? 10. Relaxation. Spain has some of Europe’s best spas and wellness centres.

Beach lovers from around the world flock to Spain’s 4,000 kilometres of sunny coastline.

Tourist Office Of Spain

Spanish Tourist Office

3. Gaudi’s Barcelona. Spain’s most famous architect (gaudy Gaudi say some) is synonymous with the city. Tours are an easy way to take in his work.

A trip to Spain can be addictive. There’s so much to see, so much to experience, so much to feel, that once is simply not enough. You can learn more about it from www.spain.info\ca. q

Spain’s museums are amazing showcasing everything from the world’s largest art gallery (El Prado), to groundbreaking architecture (Guggenheim Bilbao).

Whimsical, imaginative, even gaudy aRE some of the adjectives for Antoni Gaudi’s work that graces Barcelona.

2. E l Prado in Madrid, the world’s largest art gallery with the world’s greatest art. (www.museudelprado.es)

Borodaev/Shutterstock.com

One of the best ways to see as much as possible in a relatively short time is to self-drive, and to stop wherever the fancy takes you – villages, towns, open plains, river valleys or mountain passes. Accommodation costs less than in many European countries, and choices range from modest hostels to some of Europe’s best hotels. Among the latter are state-run paradors – magnificent heritage buildings and modern, purposebuilt hotels. They’re all over the country, and while it’s rare to find one in the heart of a city, if you’re prepared to drive a little distance you’ll be well rewarded. Rates are surprisingly reasonable, whether you stay in a 16th-century palace, a centuries-old monastery with a working community of monks, the 10th-century castle parador in Tortosa near the Catalunya coast, or a modern edifice like the one in Salamanca. Many have swimming pools and fitness centre, with golf, tennis, fishing and other sports nearby. You’ll discover the much-used architectural terms “mudejar,” designs influenced by Muslims who were permitted to remain in Spain between the 11th and 15th century, and “Romanesque,” Christian-influenced design characterized by rounded arches and restrained use of mouldings.

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The Wonders Of Spain Tourist Office of Spain

A Look At Spain’s Heritage Gems

Perched on a hilltop, the old town of Segovia boasts a beautiful cathedral – and a forbidding fortress.

From the medieval walls of Avila to the scallop shell and star symbols of Santiago de Compostela, images of Spain’s World Heritage Sites are well known around the world. The highlights mentioned here are only a few of the nation’s treasures, and a comprehensive list is available at www.spain.info/ca Avila: Golden Walled City Avila’s walls, stretching 2.5 kilometres, are synonymous with the 1,000-year-old city. Beautifully restored in the 19th century, they glow golden in the Spanish sun. Pilgrims come here to revere native Saint Teresa (1515 – 1582) whose personal belongings are on display in a convent built over her birthplace. Segments from her eloquent writings, her sewing items, even her drum (played because she was not gifted with a voice) show us the saint as human being. Look up at Avila’s church towers and you’ll likely see storks, or at least their nests. Storks are symbols of luck, and encouraged to build nests on cradle-like structures provided. While you’re in Avila, don’t miss Los Davila Palace, a fortress made up of four houses dating to the 13th century.

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Caceres: The Heart Of Extremadura Caceres is small (pop. 91,000) but big on interesting historical sights. It’s the cultural heart of Extremadura (but not the capital – that’s Merida), nudging up to the middle of Portugal. Picturesque towers dominate the walled historic quarter, and cobblestone streets wind past fortified homes and Renaissance palaces, reflecting Spain’s golden age. Local specialty souvenirs abound in little stores, and even the convents sell delicious homemade sweets and pastries. Talking of convents (and monasteries and churches), take note of Caceres’ serene courtyards. Within the walls you’ll find Moorish wells, cool gardens, and the Barrio Judio (Jewish quarter). It’s as if time stands still in this glorious old city.

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Cordoba: A Roman Capital A network of squares, whitewashed courtyards, and twisting alleys surround the Great Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba, testimony to its multicultural background. Under Roman rule, this was the capital of Hispania Ulterior, and under the Moors the capital of the Umayyad Caliphate. History hasn’t deterred the city from moving ahead and Cordoba has some of Spain’s most modern infrastructures and services including high-speed rail service (AVE) linking major cities. Cordoba hosts myriad cultural events through the year, including Flamenco festivals, concerts, and ballet. And on the city’s outskirts is the Medina Azahara, an important building from Spain’s Andalusian heritage.

Tourist Office of Spain Shutterstock.com Tourist Office of Spain Mikhail Zahranachny/Shutterstock.com

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Cuenca: The Hanging Houses Approach Cuenca by car and you notice the vertical scenery starting at the river and topped by the fortress city, with ancient homes hewn into the rock. A luxury parador, once the 16th-century San Pablo convent, yields marvellous views of the river valley and the cliff top old town. Cuenca is pattered with medieval streets, plazas, museums and the imposing Bishop’s Palace. The main attraction is Casas Colgadas (hanging houses) dating to the 15th century and lovingly restored. (One houses the Museum of Spanish Abstract Art, among the best in Spain.) Cuenca is beloved by artists, both Spanish and international, and the area has some of Spain’s oldest examples of cave paintings.

Salamanca: The Brightest Jewel? The heritage cities are all jewels in Spain’s crown, but Salamanca might be the brightest. A Roman bridge leads to the university (founded in 1218) and the town – a museum of architecture – is preserved in its entirety as a national monument. See it as the late afternoon sun bathes the golden sandstone with soft light. You’ll fall in love. Don’t miss the 14th-century cathedral chapel. Students consider it good exam luck to spend the night with their feet resting on the effigy of Bishop Anaya. He’s buried here with his son, daughter and lover. The cathedral also displays the Cristo de las Batallas, an image of Christ carried into battle by El Cid. (You can learn more of Spain’s medieval hero in Burgos, where he was born and is buried.)

The old university is a marvel of space and light. Climb its broad stairs to the majestic library, opened in 1479. Countless treasures include original manuscripts from Cervantes, and examples of censorship from the Inquisition. If someone stole a library book, the punishment was expulsion from Spain. (As far as I could discover, it still is.) Salamanca is not to be missed, in my books.

Santiago de Compostela: The Pilgrims’ Way The first thing you notice in Santiago de Compostela is the number of pilgrims. This is the end of their journey and for the next few days, the city is theirs. Many have walked (or cycled or ridden horseback) 800 kilometres from the French border, some farther, and some a lot less. Their first stop is the magnificent cathedral, where their achievements (regardless of religion or lack of it) will be acknowledged. This is a vibrant university town with a spectacular array of restaurants, bars and hostelries, and a lively nightlife. An outstanding hotel is the beautiful parador in Obradoiro square, built for pilgrims in 1499. Today it’s also a monument, open to the public. Eye-catching for its modern design is the Galician Contemporary Art Centre, worth a visit to see the collections inside and views of the historic quarter from its terraces.

1. Toledo’s cathedral was built in 1227 during Moslem rule, and is one of the most important in Europe. 2. B eautifully restoreD in the 19th century, Avila’s walls are a symbol of this 1,000-year-old city. 3. The serene courtyards of the convents and monasteries in Caceres house Moorish wells and cool gardens. 4. Casa Colgadas (hanging houses) dating from the 15th century are one of Cuenca’s main attractions.

Tourist Office of Spain

5. Santago de Compostela is the end of the journey for pilgrims from around the world who follow the way of St. James.

6. The Great Mosque of Cordoba stands as testament to the time the city was the capital of the Umayyad Caliphate.

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Segovia: A Feast For The Senses

Toledo: A Museum City Toledo’s old town is protected on its hilltop perch, and reached after acre-upon-acre of apartment buildings and industry. Don’t be put off. Toledo

VanHart/ Shutterstock.com

Segovia is like a fairy tale city, with a hilltop old town boasting a cathedral so beautiful it’s known as “the lady of all cathedrals.” The entrance to the historic quarter is from Azoguejo Square with its dramatic Roman aqueduct. From here a labyrinth of small streets winds up, up to the peak, and on the way, yields views of rooftops in a hundred different shapes and shades of terra cotta. As you walk past Casa de los Picos (now home to the School of Applied Arts and Crafts) it’s impossible not to run your hands against the granite point walls. Segovia is a feast for the senses. Other notable medieval buildings include the Alhondiga corn exchange and the Torreon de Los Lozoya tower, both used for cultural exhibitions. Reward yourself with lunch in the parador’s restaurant, overlooking the Guadarrama mountains (snow capped when I visited and a ski area in winter). And treat yourself to a visit of Segovia beyond the ancient walls. You’ll find beautiful squares, gardens and numerous Romanesque buildings.

has been a city of steel manufacture for five centuries and the name is still a byword for quality. It’s an important capital in the Roman Catholic Church, and Holy Week (Easter) celebrations are second to none. The Cardinal of Toledo is leader of the church in Spain, and the cathedral one of the most important in Europe. It was built during Moslem rule, in 1227, when Christians were permitted to hold modified services. This is El Greco’s town. Several of his paintings are displayed in the Museum of Santa Cruz, including the evocative Tears of St. Peter. The Synagogue of Santa Maria la Blanca is well worth a visit for its fine architecture. Built in 1180, it’s the only synagogue remaining since the purge of the Jews during the Inquisition. q

A Roman bridge leads to the old town of Salamanca, one of the brightest jewels in Spain’s heritage crown.

Spain’s Special Routes Spain is criss-crossed with a number of designated “routes” offering trip-planning focus for groups with special interests. Via de la Plata (the Silver Route) travels a road used since Roman times, from Gijon, Asturias, to Seville. It passes through Granada, Caceres, and Salamanca among other places. You might find echoes of Washington Irving, who in 1829 travelled the trail in search of the soul of Andalucia. The Caliphate Route explores Spain under Moorish occupation, and their overthrow by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella. It passes through Cordoba, Montilla, Baena, and Granada. The latter houses that glorious Islamic legacy the Alhambra Palace, occupied by Ferdinand and Isabella, and their daughter Catherine. (She became the first wife of Britain’s Henry VIII.) Jewish history has an important role in Spain, and the Route of the Sefarad outlines areas of interest across the country. Jewish Quarters dating to pre-Inquisition are found in Caceres, Cordoba, Oviedo, Ribadavia (featured in the Festival of History each July), Segovia and Toledo.

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The Castilian Language Route also has its focus in the north, in the The Green Spain route takes travellers to the country’s lesser-known areas, particularly along the northern coast. Here, too, is the Cider Route, beautiful red-earth countryside of Castile and Leon, and La Rioja. The region is bright with wildflowers and the windmills evoke Don Quixote. The language has where the majority of tourists are Spaniards who come to participate in its roots in the ancient cities of Avila, Burgos, Salamanca, Santo Domingo de the area’s unique cider tasting. (Cider is poured from a raised arm into Silos and Valladolid – creating a delightful itinerary to interest anyone, language a glass held low and the amber liquid must “break” against the tumbler focused or not. to aerate it.) The Costa Verde (Green Coast) of Cantabria, Asturias, and You can find more information on these and other official Routes from Galicia is remarkably different from the southern Costas. Many beaches www.spain.info/ca. q remain pristine, and development tends to be low-key. (The area is prone to unpredictable weather.) Just a few kilometres southeast is La Rioja and one of several Wine Routes, this one extending into Castile and Leon. Any designated route from the Spanish Association of Wine-Producing Towns and Cities (ACEVIN) leads you to some of Spain’s oldest wine-growing regions. The Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James) is the famous pilgrimage drawing walkers from around the world to travel to Santiago de Compostella in Galicia. They walk, cycle, and even travel by horse. For many, religion has little to do with it. It’s about getting in touch with self, meeting like-minded fellow pilgrims, and experiencing life one kilometre at a time. There are several “caminos” (routes) to Santiago, but the one known as the “French Route,” some 800-kilometres from the border across the northern regions, has been popular since the ninth century. It passes through Sign along the Camino de Santiago, popular fields and plains, villages, over mountains and through valwith pilgrims since the ninth century. leys, and towns such as Pamplona, Burgos and Leon. tw_islascanarias_apr11 4/29/11 4:40 PM Page 1

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Madrid-

The Pulse Of The Nation Tapas, Flamenco & Royal Grace In Spain’s Capital

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Madrid is the gateway for most visitors from Canada, and it would be a shame not to spend at least a few days in this big, bustling capital (population 3.3 million). It sits, appropriately, in the country’s geographic heart. It’s the pulse of the nation’s business, the seat of its government, and home to King Juan Carlos and his family. And there’s plenty to see and do. When you unpack, leave your Canadian lifestyle in the luggage. Think siesta in the afternoon, because almost everything closes, and you’re going to need the time to recover from lunch, the main meal of the day, and to build energy for the night. Madrilenos work hard between 9 a.m. and 1:30 p.m., and again

from 4 p.m. to 6 or 7 p.m., but by 11, when we tend to think of our beds, they’re ready to go out to eat and party. Not just on weekends, either – this happens every night. Tapas bars are the places to start. From about 10:30 onwards the selection of small dishes – squid, sausage, veal, vegetables, etc. – is best sampled by bar hopping in Madrid’s Plaza Mayor with its lovely 17th-century buildings. But it’s crowded, so be prepared to eat your tapas while standing. For lunch, you can’t do better than visit one of the many restaurants in Plaza de Espana, a beautifully restored part of the old city. A sign outside El Cuchi (off the plaza at Calle de los Cuchilleros) proclaims “Hemingway never ate

Madrid, in the heart of Spain, is the pulse of business, seat of government and home to the royal family.

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here,” defying all the neighbouring cafes who claim the opposite. Nearby is Puerta del Sol, the most central square from which 10 streets radiate through the city. Here too is the stone slab Kilometre Zero - from which all distances in Spain are measured. Madrid is renowned for its historical buildings (three in the not-to-be-missed Plaza de la Villa) and magnificent art galleries, the most famous of which is certainly El Prado. Here you can spend hours with the masterpieces of Goya, Velasquez, Bosch, Picasso, et al. A tour of the austere Royal Palace reveals a collection of clocks cared for by a descendant

Nito/Shutterstock.com

Kilometre Zero, from which all distances in Spain are measured, sits in Puerta del Sol, the most central square in Madrid.

Flamenco is a soulstirring expression of Spain. Experience it in clubs throughout the country.

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Lev Radin/Shutterstock.com

of Columbus, and some magnificent tapestries. No ruler, I’m told, has ever defiled the imposing, symbolic throne by actually sitting on it. In fact the palace – now used only for state occasions – has not been lived in since 1931. “Our king and queen prefer a cosier little palace outside Madrid,” says my guide. I don’t blame them. A flamenco show is worth attending. When it’s well done the dance is a soul-stirring expression of Spain – but I recommend avoiding “tourist” shows such as the one I saw at Las Chinitas, where the ladies looked bored as they shouted traditional responses, and where the men bordered on the rotund. What happened to those knife-blade physiques? I tried to imagine Jose Greco at Weight Watchers. Best to ask the hotel staff where the Spaniards go. One of Europe’s busiest conference centres, Madrid’s range of event venues includes lavish palaces and castles and the modern conference centres. Check out local listings because you’re sure to find several events that you’d hate to miss. q

Vinicius Tupinamba/Shutterstock.com

head to Plaza Mayor, with its lovely 17th-century buildings and many, many tapas BARS.

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Barcelona-A Catalan Capital The famous Sagrada Familia cathedral was designed by maverick architect Antoni Gaudi (18521926) and is still a work in progress.

Tours visiting the film’s location highlights are already popular, with at least one including a stay in the luxurious Hotel Casa Fuster, a landmark building on the elegant Paseo de Gracia (or Passeig de Gracia in Catalan, the language of Barcelona). It overlooks the famous Sagrada Familia cathedral, the gem (and ongoing work-in-progress) of maverick architect Antoni Gaudi (1852 – 1926). There are sights that shouldn’t be missed in this vibrant capital of Catalonia, even if you’re there on business. (It’s one of Europe’s favourite meeting places.) The broad, 1.2-kilometre, tree-lined pedestrian walkway known as La Ramblas has lost a little of its past elegance (you’ll find the elegance remains on Ramblas Catalunyas to the north), but it’s still one the best people-watching spots in the city, lined with news kiosks, flower sellers, buskers and bird sellers. Wander a block or two east to explore the narrow streets of the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter). You’ll come to the 19th-century Place Reial, ruins of the old Roman city, and the enormous 14th-century cathedral, a glorious testament to gothic architecture. Nearby is my favourite Barcelona restaurant – Los Caracoles (The Snails) – even though others may top reviewers’ lists. It’s at Calle Escudellers, Number 14, and you’ll find chickens barbecuing over an open-fire right on the street. The smell is enough to drive anyone inside, and the food doesn’t disappoint. Reservations are recommended for dinner – call 34-933-023-185. A restaurant legend is Els Quatre Gats (The Four

La Ramblas, the tree-lined pedestrian walkway, is the best people-watching spot in the city, and to buy newspapers, flowers, even birds.

Barcelona was never out of the spotlight, but since 2009 when Penelope Cruz won her Best Supporting Actress Oscar for Woody Allen’s Vicki Cristina Barcelona, the city beckons more seductively than ever. Cruz’s work made the movie Oscar-worthy, but the scenery in and around Barcelona stole the show. Woody Allen did it right.

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Tourist Office of Spain

A Seaside City Of Gaudi, Gothic Wonders & Picasso

Turisme de Barcelona/Espai d’Imatge

Turisme de Barcelona/J. Jrullas

A World Heritage Site, Parc Guell, another of Gaudi’s visions, was originally designed as housing for the wealthy.

Cats, Catalan slang for “just a few people,” call 93-302-41-40). The place was a favourite of Picasso (and yes, featured in the movie) and the fin de siècle eating place was the locale of his first exposition. While we’re talking about one of Spain’s most famous native sons, you’ll enjoy the museum dedicated to his work on Calle Montecada. The street is worth a visit just to see the medieval mansions, many “modernized” in neo-classic style. For fans of the Olympic Games (Barcelona hosted them in 1992) a stroll around

A legacy of the 1992 Olympic Games is the Montjuic area with its beautiful views of the city and the sea.

Montjuic will evoke memories, and the view of the city and sea is beautiful. On the same mountain is Poble Espanol, with its collection of replica buildings from different Spanish regions – houses, palaces, whole streets even – all housed within a replica of Avila’s famous walls. Don’t miss a visit to Parc Guell, a must for Gaudi fans. The UNESCO World Heritage Site was intended as an early 20th-century housing complex for the wealthy, but it didn’t work. Commerce’s loss is the public’s gain, because it’s a favourite with families for picnics and gatherings. A city tour is the best way for first-time visitors to orient themselves, and you’ll spot markets, lively squares, museums and galleries that can keep you busy for days. q

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A walk through the Barri Gotic takes you past the 14th-century cathedral and ruins of the old Roman city.

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Tourist Office of Spain

Regional Specialties Travel Through The Country’s Regions & Explore Spain’s Colourful Culture

Heritage cities, and their attractions highlight a visit to Castile – Leon, like the Roman aquaduct in Segova.

What we call provinces, Spain calls regions and, a tad confusing perhaps, regions have within them provinces.

One of Andalucia’s best-known exports is sherry from Jerez de la Frontera, also renowned for its horses, its flamenco, and its well-preserved historic centre.

The Balearics

Extremadura

The Balearic Islands officially belong to Spain. Unofficially they belong only to themselves. They include Ibiza (the party-lovers’ island), Menorca, Formentera, and the main island, Mallorca, home of the Balearic capital Palma de Mallorca. Mallorca, an hour’s flight from Barcelona, offers big-city bustle and nightlife, a delightful Old Town in Palma, and a varied countryside ranging from mountains to almond orchards. (It was here that author George Sand brought her lover Franz Liszt in an effort to cure his consumption.) Fishing villages-turned-tourist resorts dot the coast, and inland villages and towns seem timeless. Challengeloving cyclists and hikers tackle the mountains, which lend ruggedness to the coastal scenery. Ibiza is the domain of those who love wild parties and clubbing. It’s deejay heaven, with an ongoing contest to find the best mixer and spinner. Rubbing shoulders with the beat is history, culture and a walled Old Town. Minorca, sized between Mallorca and Ibiza, is synonymous with peace and luxury. Accommodations range from the ultra-spectacular to charming rural hotels along the coast. You’re less likely to find bargain vacations on this island but when you want to splurge and enjoy historical sites, secluded beaches, sailing and

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golf, this is the place. Formentera, the smallest of the Balearics, has a wealth of bird life and a relaxed feel. Spain’s other maritime region, the Canary Islands, lies in the mid-Atlantic only 115 kilometres off the African coast. Tourism is booming among these once almostforgotten islands, but agriculture remains strong despite the new ports, hotels and golf courses. Of the seven large islands Tenerife, Lanzarote, La Palma, and Gran Canaria are best known, appealing to active vacationers.

Andalucia In southern Spain, Andalucia’s coastline spans 900 kilometres along the Mediterranean and Atlantic, the two bodies of water divided by the Strait of Gibraltar. North Africa is a near neighbour. The vast coastline curls into bays and coves with geological quirks like the steep summit of Farallon and rocky Calaburras Point. Andalucia is not only a haven for beach lovers. It draws hikers, birders and cyclists to its 22 national parks where they find mountains and plains, rivers and lakes, and the famous White Villages – 19 inland settlements around the province of Cadiz. These hilly, winding streets are hemmed with blindingly whitewashed buildings, designed to keep interiors cool. Nestled among the rocky peaks of Sierra de Grazalema Nature Reserve, they’re a photographer’s delight.

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Extremadura hugs the middle of neighbouring Portugal like a good friend. In fact the River Tagus runs through the region, flowing into Portugal and the Atlantic. As in so many parts of Spain, the area has seen a number of conquerors, from Roman to Visigoth, and their legacies are found in the architecture. In fact Merida, the regional capital, boasts more Roman monuments than any other Spanish city. It was the ancient capital of Roman Lusitania and it’s on Spain’s Silver Route. Extremadura also has its White Villages in Badajoz province, southwest of Caceres. And it has a literary heritage, keenly celebrated in Almendralejo, south of Merida, on the first weekend in June when residents dress in 19th-century style.

Castile – La Mancha The first image that comes to mind is Don Quixote tilting at windmills on the plains of La Mancha. Follow the route of Cervantes’ immortal knight for a fascinating tour. The journey starts in Argamasilla de Alba where, it’s thought, Cervantes began his tale while imprisoned in the town. The route passes through quiet towns like Ruidera, Ossa de Montiel, and El Bonillo, and

The blinding whitewash on the buildings of the White Villages around Cadiz keeps the interiors cool.

Tourist Office of Spain

You can follow the route of Don QuiXote, Cervantes’ fictional hero as he tilts aT windmills on the plaINS of La Mancha.

into the Lagunas de Ruidera nature reserve, a UNESCO Biosphere. Something Quixote probably did not do was explore a mine, an attraction recently developed in Spain. In the province of Ciudad Real, you can descend 700 metres below the earth’s surface at Almaden Mining Park, where mercury was extracted. Castile – La Mancha boasts five archaeological parks. Carranque, in the province of Toledo, features Roman buildings with the remains of homes, a temple and mills. Recopolis in Zorito de los Canes (Guadalajara province) takes visitors to the Middle Ages. In Saelices, Cuenca province, Segobriga dates to the Iron Age with ruins of Roman theatres and thermal baths. And at El Tolmo de Minateda at Hellin in Albacete province Bronze Age settlements plus Roman and Moorish burial sites provide a feast for fans of historical architecture.

eponymous third largest city, which blends ancient and modern in a dynamic culture. Stretching along Spain’s eastern coast, the region has many treasures to discover beyond the acres of modern tourist structures and miles of campgrounds, with antiquities and classical monuments dotted along the shores. It’s a popular destination for budget and family travellers who flock to the beaches, several of which hold the coveted European Blue Flag award. Maritime sports thrive here and the region is renowned for sailing. (It has hosted the America’s Cup and launched the Volvo Round the World Ocean Yacht Race.) The town of Valencia, with a population exceeding five million, celebrates a multitude of festivals through the year adding to its lively atmosphere.

Murcia

Describing Castile – Leon in a few words is like trying to stuff an elephant into a Mini. This is Spain’s largest region, and can claim numerous superlatives: heritage cities like Burgos (with a glorious cathedral housing the tomb of El Cid), Salamanca, Segovia, Avila, and the capital Valladolid; rivers, lakes and the Castile Canal offering boat trips and water sports; Spain’s deepest, longest canyons; nature reserves; thousands of ancient monuments including four Royal Sites under the aegis of the Spanish National Heritage; more than 300 castles…and we could go on.

Thanks to its mineral-rich waters, this region on the Mediterranean has numerous spa resorts including the open-air Mar Menor. A combination of spa and golf is increasingly popular and the area boasts several courses – with layouts ranging from gentle to challenging – near the cities of Murcia and Cartagena.

Valencia Valencia, says the classic Spanish song, “is the land of flowers, light and love.” The region is home to Spain’s

Castile – Leon

las fiestas You’d have to work hard to miss a fiesta on any trip to Spain. Think Bull Running in Pamplona, tomato throwing in Bunol (La Tomatino), Seville’s Feria de Abril (not always in April) or La Feria de Malaga, commemorating Christian victory over the Moors in 1538. Check them out at www.spain.info/ca.

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The beaches are gorgeous and the sunshine is warm along Catalunya’s coastline along the Balearic Sea.

Beautiful monasteries abound in Spain but two in this region are worth special mention: Royal Santa Clara Monastery in Tordesillas, a fine example of Mudejar (Arabic) art with old Moorish baths; and Santa Maria la Real de las Huelgas in Burgos, an active monastery with a well-known cloister and a textile museum. My personal favourite is a little monastery in the village of Santo Domingo de Silos in Burgos province. After a tour of the site, I heard the Benedictine monks chanting at their 7 p.m. service. It was spine-tingling. I found out later that the group became a huge hit on Europe’s music charts, much to their astonishment. Castile – Leon has something for everyone in the family, especially in reserves like Sierra de Gredos, with zip-lines, tree canopy walks and archery areas for Robin Hood games.

Aragon The name Aragon evokes princesses and dragons, fairy tales and mythology. It was once a kingdom, and does have myriad castles, medieval towns and remains of prehistoric habitation. The region is known through Europe as one of the best places for adventure, thanks to the national park system. And thanks to its low population density (second lowest in Spain) Aragon is known for its unspoiled landscape. The historic town of Jaca is well worth a visit. It has, arguably, Spain’s most important Romanesque cathedral. Aragon’s thermal spas, known to the Romans and Arabs, continue to offer pampering rejuvenation treatments. The springs extend across the region, and spa vacations are increasingly popular.

Catalunya Catalan people are fiercely independent, and have won the right to be educated and to do business in their own language. When you visit, you’ll see signs in Catalan and only sometimes in Castilian. Barcelona is the lively capital, and the coastline – stretching along the Balearic Sea in the

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Mediterranean – is almost wall-to-wall resorts. The tourists have good reason to flock here. The beaches are mostly gorgeous and the sunshine’s warm. If you go, take time to visit the active monastery at Montserrat. You can stay on site – it’s a lovely parador – and the Benedictine centre played a major role keeping Catalan alive during the dictatorship of Franco. The approach takes you through unique landscapes, and there are some magnificent hiking trails in these mountains. If you enjoy ancient monuments, check out the Roman aqueduct outside Tarragona, a city that was an important ancient port.

Green Spain – The North Embracing the regions of Galicia to the west, Asturias, Cantabria, and Pais Vasco (Basque country) on the eastern border, Green Spain, or Costa Verde, is a delight to discover. The sun is less predictable along this Atlantic coast (it’s in the Bay of Biscay which can be stormy) but the beaches are pristine, beautiful, natural. Each region has its own character. Galicia, for example, includes Cabo Finisterre, where Santiago de Compostela pilgrims traditionally burn their staffs, or some other item (socks, T-shirts, underwear) carried for weeks on the trail. In Cantabria and Asturias, Picos de Europa National Park is an impressive range of volcanic peaks, a pleasure to explore by car, cycle, or on foot. Wild horses roam the heights – a delight to happen upon. A number of nature reserves and caves dot the area, and the network of trails is superb, sometimes along unused railway lines, livestock trails, and even Roman roads. You’ll also find charming “agriturismo” accommodation, and “casa aldea” – bed-andbreakfast guesthouses. q More information from www.spain.info/ca.

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Spanish wines span the gamut of tastes. Rioja, tempranillo, verdejo, sherry of course, and many more. Liqueurs include Risoli from Cuenca, made from coffee, cinnamon, and orange peel. It goes well with local almond pastry, and sells in keepsake bottles shaped like Cuenca’s Casas Colgadas (hanging houses). Extremadura has fruit liqueurs from the Jerte valley: cherry, chestnut and blackberry especially. The area is also known for goat cheese and chestnut products. Visit any tavern or bar in the evening for tapas – little bites of deliciousness like chorizo, tortilla Espanol (a potato and egg frittata), Serrano ham, white beans, and so on. Tapas vary with the region, are invariably good, and often free with your drinks. Paella is the classic Spanish dish, originating in Valencia. The saffron-flavoured rice with seafood and meat is traditionally eaten on Sundays. In Galicia, it’s hard to beat the shellfish. Octopus is also popular, served in stews or simply with olive oil and bread. Castile – La Mancha is known for lamb, and pork appears in many traditional dishes of Extremadura and the northern regions. (The suckling pig is delectable.) In the Castile – Leon region, fresh fish from the Atlantic and from local rivers is excellent. Vegetarian? It’s not easy in Spain, but your saviour is the cheese – creamy or crumbly, sharp or mild, sheep, goat, or cow – the variety is surprising and tasty. Sweet tooth? Try turron, a confection made of honey, almonds, and egg whites. Choose the Menu del Dia for the most economical way to eat in Spain. Almost every restaurant offers a three-course set lunch (the main meal in Spain) for a very reasonable price, with wine included. More information: www.spain.info/ca Paella, a classic Spanish dish.

VLC/Valencia

Janice Strong

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Just Do It In Spain

Where Sports Are A National Passion

When it comes to sports, Spain has it, does it, and often wins it.

Oliver Hoffmann/Shutterstock.com

The nation has produced multiple champions of tennis, soccer, basketball, golf, Olympic gold medallists, winners of Tour de France…and the list goes on. A thrill for any fan is to visit the places that raised these champions, like the Mallorca of tennis whiz Rafael Nadal, or the Valencia of golf great Sergio Garcia. It’s as if a little piece of their skill and talent could transfer itself to us. We can but imagine, and Spain has the wherewithal to help us do it. Every region has its golf courses, and the mild climate in the south makes golf possible for much of the year. Major tournaments are no strangers to Spain. Malaga is one of the most popular areas with courses to suit players of all levels, including the famous Valderrama, where the Andalucia Masters takes place October 27 to 30 this year. Cycling and hiking vacations have never been more popular, and they can be as mild or as challenging as you wish. Mountain biking doesn’t get much better than in the Pyrenees, and hikers love Green Spain in the north, which also lends itself well to white water rafting and kayaking. You’ll find more river sports in the Pyrenees region and along the fast-flowing rivers of Aragon. Spaniards love speed, and they’ve adapted the passion to jet-boating on some rivers. You’ll even find waterskiing and windsurfing on a few inland waterways. Water sports are big all along the coast of course, including diving and snorkelling, parasailing and windsurfing. But remember that to sail, drive a motorboat,

Spain is considered a water sport capital of the world, hosting championship competitions like the America’s Cup and Volvo Round The World Ocean Yacht Race.

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or pull a water skier you need a licence and permit. Spain is a maritime nation with history so it’s no surprise that it’s considered a water sport capital of the world, hosting championship competitions. Valencia hosted the America’s Cup (2007) and Alicante is the launch port for this year’s Volvo Round the World Ocean Yacht Race in October. Valencia is in the spotlight these days, hosting major tennis tournaments (the Valencia Open 500 runs from October 29 to November 6 this year) and other world-class events. The city also features Formula One racing and major equestrian competitions. Active vacations can extend to the air and hot-air ballooning gives a great bird’s eye view of the land you’re travelling through. If your taste is edgier, go for paragliding or sky diving. It’s all here. Perhaps you prefer being underground? Check out the caving, or for gentler sightseeing, the recently opened mine attractions. If mountaineering is your choice, the Spanish Tourist Board offers itineraries to climb more than 120 peaks. Gentler slopes lend themselves to horse riding routes and mountain bike trails. And if you’re a birdwatcher, head to the parks of Andalucia where sightings of golden and imperial eagles are not uncommon. Find out more about these and other activities and events and whether you need permits for your chosen activities, from www.spain.info/ca. q

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