September 2012 Canadian's Guide to Northwest Florida

A Canadian’s Guide To

South Walton PENSACOLA Emerald coast Panama City Beach

Sun, Sand & A Whole Lotta Fun A Destination Guide Supplement To The September 2012 Issue Of

Northwest Florida’s Gulf Coast, Florida’s best kept secret, lies along sugar-white sandy shores that greet emerald green water. This tropical stretch of beaches is home to days spent deep-sea fishing, golfing on top-rated courses, shopping, dining on local cuisine and soaking in the sun on the beach or beside a resort pool... and ResortQuest has a place for you close to all the action. With the unexpected spaciousness, amenities and freedom of a fully furnished beach home or condominium... You’ll be comfortable whether your travels include two people or twenty. Call about our long term stays and low winter rates!

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2009, 2010, 2011 & 2012

A Canadian’s Guide To

Panama City Beach

South Walton

Pensacola

Emerald coast

NORTHWEST FLORIDA – A SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT TO THE SEPTEMBER 2012 ISSUE OF CANADIAN TRAVELLER Published 12 times a year by

THE DESTINATION SALES RESOURCE FOR TRAVEL PROFESSIONALS

Printed in Canada

Contents © 2012 by ACT Communications Inc. All Rights Reserved. ISBN 1207-1463

Written by: Josephine Matyas Cover Photo: Emerald Coast CVB

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83 Canadian Traveller September 2012NW Florida

Panama City Beach

Panama City Beach Is A Florida Classic

In Panama City Beach (PCB), it’s all about the beachfront and a “come as you are” kind of attitude (it’s famous for the 30-kilometre stretch of white quartz crystal sand). Known as a REAL. FUN. BEACH destination, PCB sports rows of waterfront restaurants, boutiques, family-friendly attractions and outfitters selling fishing excursions, windsurfing, parasailing and paddleboarding.

A classic Florida beach town that has recently gone through a positive renaissance, PCB is known as a happening kind of place: It’s popular with families year-round, snowbirds in the winter and becomes a favourite for college kids at spring break.

Explore The Outdoors Panama City Beach is bookended by state parks, with lots of hiking and quiet beach opportunities. Just east of downtown, St. Andrews State Park is the perfect antidote when you need a break from the city’s bustling energy, with a campground that’s very popular with Canadians.

St. Andrews is just a stone’s throw away from Panama City Beach’s busy restaurants and attractions, and yet an outdoorsman’s delight of diverse habitats: rolling white sand dunes, salt and freshwater marshes, grass flats and forest.

The park is known for its dune ecosystem, home to the best wind surfing beach on the Gulf coast and a stretch of sand that’s great for watching sunsets. Sea oats and Florida

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rosemary anchor the fragile, shifting dunes in place. In the summer months, loggerhead sea turtles nest along the beachfront. In the winter, the ponds, trees and shrubbery are home to migratory birds. The parkland intersects with the Great Florida Birding Trail, a 3,200-kilometre, self-guided highway trail connecting 500 birding and wildlife viewing sites throughout the state.

A self-guided nature trail around Gator Lake crosses through stands of tall slash pine, sabal palm (the Florida state tree), sand live oak and sand pine. Hikers may share the pathway with great blue herons or great and snowy egrets that have an island rookery in the park.

The wind makes this Gulfside beach a favourite with windsurfers and kiteboarders. For a great afternoon, pack a

A Classic Florida beach town, Panama City Beach and its 30 kilometres of white sand beach is known as a Real. Fun Beach. Beach destination.

Get In Touch With Your Shopping Diva Shopping is one of the top activities for visitors to Panama City Beach. And there’s shopping galore at the massive open-air Pier Park lifestyle centre, northwest Florida’s largest shopping, dining and entertainment venue. Here you’ll find a massive mix of chain stores and eclectic boutiques that have become the “new” downtown of Panama City Beach. Anything with a beach theme, they’ve got in spades. Novelty shops, chic clothing, pottery, beachwear….

Many of the shops are locally owned and operated, with an eclectic mix of craft and artisan shops as well as many of the traditional name brand stores.

Pier Park has become the entertainment and shopping hub of PCB and it shows in the special events that fill the calendar.

There’s a blow out celebration for Independence Day on July 4, a New Year’s Eve Beach Ball Drop and a huge Mardi Gras parade.

There’s shopping galore at the massive open-air Pier Park lifestyle centre. Many of the shops are locally owned and operated, with an eclectic mix of craft and artisan shops as well as many name brand stores.

Photos Panama City Beach CVB

picnic, a blanket and some sunscreen, find a spot on the beach and watch the colourful kites splash across the sky.

In spring and summer, shuttle boat tours go from the mainland of the park to Shell Island, a pristine barrier island where the waves, the breeze and the seagulls are the only distractions. The island is known for its sand dunes, fresh water swamp, thick woods and sugar-white sands. Pack your snorkelling gear, fishing pole, bathing suit and sunscreen.

Camp Helen State Park is bordered on three sides by the Gulf of Mexico and Lake Powell – one of the largest coastal dune lakes in Florida and a perfect location to try stand-up paddle boarding.

Natural areas range from coastal dunes and salt marshes along the Gulf to freshwater wetlands and sand pine scrub along the lake.

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Panama City Beach Good Eats Breakfast: Andy’s Flour Power Bakery & Café is where the locals hang.

Enormous plates of Flour Power French Toast are what put Andy’s on the map – fresh-baked French bread dipped in a cinnamon and brown sugar batter, grilled until golden, then topped with toasted pecans and sliced strawberries. Order the industrial-size mugs of coffee.

Lunch: Hook’d Pier Bar & Grill is on the Gulf beside the new 460-metre long City Pier. Try the Fish Taco Plate – a soft, warm tortilla stuffed with fresh fish and topped with homemade jalapeno slaw and mango salsa.

Dinner: At the Saltwater Grill, a huge saltwater aquarium grabs your attention as soon as you walk through the front door. The restaurant is known for, well, seafood, like the Gulf-catch of red snapper, shrimp and grouper. The early dining menu (from 4 to 5:30 p.m. daily) is a great way to snag specials on prime rib, yellowfin tuna or mahi mahi.

TOP: Camp Helen State Park is bordered on three sides by the Gulf of Mexico and Lake Powell – one of the largest coastal dune lakes in Florida.

The odd and the oneof-a-kind fill Ripley’s Believe It Or Not, one of the Panhandle’s most popular indoor attractions.

Recognized by Golf Digest as one of America’s top three golf towns, Panama City Beach boasts championship fairways and Stay and Play golf packages.

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10 Ways To Chill 1. There are miles of boardwalks, walking and biking trails at the new Panama City Beach Conservation Park. The park covers an area of protected wetlands that were rehydrated and reclaimed to create an area for wildlife that can be enjoyed by outdoor enthusiasts. Trails are open daily from sunrise to sunset and are dog friendly.

2. Get out the binoculars and spend the day on the Great Florida Birding Trail at St. Andrews State Park. The park’s sawtooth palmettos, pinewoods and shrubs are a safe nesting sites for birds including blue jays, egrets, herons and pelicans.

3. Championship fairways are open year round and Stay and Play golf packages make a golf visit to PCB a great way to spend some time.

With more than 320 days of sunshine each year, the area courses are a good bet for great weather on the links. Golf Digest recognized Panama City Beach as one of America’s top three golf towns.

4. Many hotels, motels and rental condos offer discounted rates for extended stays of 30 days or longer.

5. Resorts, local senior centres or community groups offer customized programs for seniors, including golf outings, swimming clubs for exercise, shopping excursions, wine and food events, card parties and day trips.

6. Visit the tasting room at the Panama City Beach Winery, a tropical winery where they specialize in citrus, berry and fruit wines.

7. Rent a bike and hop onto the Gulf front pathways. A delivery service can bring the bikes right to your hotel or condo.

8. Spend an evening at the races at the Ebro Greyhound Park. Friday and Saturday nights the park serves up an all-you-can-eat prime rib buffet.

9. Natural and undeveloped Shell Island offers excellent snorkelling and secluded beaches. Access is by boat only. It’s a great spot for shelling and for watching the pods of bottlenose dolphins (PCB has one of the world’s highest concentrations of the playful creatures). There are no facilities on the island, so pack water and a snack.

10. Music concerts are a great way to spend a PCB weekend. There’s live music at the new Fishale Taphouse & Grill, where they have more than 60 craft beers on tap.

10 Things For Families 1. The odd and the one-of-a-kind fill Ripley’s Believe It Or Not, one of the Panhandle’s most popular indoor attractions.

2. Kids of all ages love mini-golf, which makes it the perfect way for

Florida September 2012 Canadian Traveller 86

l . F U N. a e r beach. www.visitpanamacitybeach.com families to spend time together. The Coconut Creek Family Fun Park has two 18-hole mini-golf courses – and tots five and under play free.

3. Spend a beach day at St. Andrews State Park, named by Travel Magazine, Southern Living and Trip Advisor as one of the nation’s top beaches. If you are doing the outdoorsy thing, St. Andrews has two campground loops with 176 sites, many on the Grand Lagoon.

4. The Gran Maze at Coconut Creek is a football field-size human labyrinth where the goal is to find four checkpoints. Families can work together as a team to solve the maze puzzle in record time.

5. Get cool at the new four-metre tall, Coke bottle-shaped water mister at the Pier Park lifestyle centre.

6. Spend loose change feeding the rides at the Miracle Strip at Pier Park amusement park.

7. Kids who love animals will love ZooWorld, home to more than 260 exotic animals, including alligators, grey wolves, parrots and a new pair of red kangaroo joeys.

8. All kids love playing in the water and they’ll go nuts over Shipwreck Island Waterpark. A great way for kids to challenge adults is on the new Pirate’s Plunge Racing Slide – duelling slides side by side that drop from an 18-metre tall tower.

The tropical themed waterpark includes curving flumes, rapid river rides, a wave pool and a lazy river.

9. Tour the PCB coastline on board Shark Bite Tours’ amphibian boats. These unusual vehicles have stationary tires and can drive from land directly into the water. The one-hour narrated tour floats and drives past sugary white beaches, uninhabited Shell Island at St. Andrews State Park and local historic points of interest.

10. Try stand-up paddleboarding with a rental from Mr. Surfs Surf Shop. Kids get the hang of things quickly with the oversized boards on calm waters.

Pets Welcome • Doggie Beach, a 150-metre stretch of sugary white sand alongside City Pier, allows on-leash dogs to frolic in the waves with their owners.

• PCB has several off-leash parks (alas, no swimming) including Frank Brown Park and 4.8 hectares at Zollie Young Dog Park (just off US 231).

• The city’s new Doggie Dining Law allows restaurants with outdoor seating to welcome well-behaved dogs in those areas.

• When strolling and shopping through Pier Park, keep an eye open for the centre’s two outdoor doggie water fountains. It’s important to keep “man’s best friend” hydrated!

• In the “dog days of summer” the outdoor amphitheatre across the street from Pier Park hosts a “Summer Concert Series” on Thursday nights during the summer. Well behaved, on-leash pets are welcome.

• Explore beautiful Shell Island by taking the pet-friendly St. Andrew Bay Ferry or rent a boat from pet-friendly Adventures at Sea or Scotty Boat Rentals.

• Visit www.visitpanamacitybeach.com/do/for-dog-lovers for a listing of pet friendly lodging and dining or www.bayfwd.org for more local information.

Locals Say • Best place to watch the sunset is aboard a two-hour catamaran cruise, like Island Time Sailing, where you’ll be joined by Atlantic bottlenose dolphins jumping and splashing around the boat.

• Foodies can sign up for cooking lessons at the popular local restaurant, Liza’s Kitchen. Relax, watch and learn while the chef whips up a four-course, gourmet feast including wines perfectly paired to each course.

• Panama City Beach is known for its twin long piers – which the locals will tell you are some of the best fishing spots in the area. In addition to casting from the pier, the larger area is known for sport fishing, back bay fishing and fly fishing. As well, Panama City Beach is home to one of the country’s largest sport fishing fleets.

87 Canadian Traveller September 2012 NW Florida

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FU N . l a . re beach. www.visitpanamacitybeach.com

Mark Your Calendar • Columbus Day weekend (October 4 to 7) brings a wave of fun-filled adventures to Panama City Beach with the Pirates of the High Seas Fest, a weekend of parades and sword-swinging showdowns, culminating with a duelling fireworks display re-enacting the Battle of the Seven Seas.

• The five-day Seafood and Music Festival celebrates seafood, fishing, culinary arts, music, entertainment, arts and culture in Panama City Beach. October 24-28, 2012.

• On December 30 the inaugural Biggest Loser Half Marathon and 5K RunWalk leaves the starting gate. PCB has partnered with Dan and Jackie Evans, contestants on The Biggest Loser, Season 5 to offer the RunWalk as a nonintimidating environment, with longer course time limits to allow walkers to complete the race at their own pace.

• Get your resolutions in order and welcome the New Year at the 5th Annual Beach Ball Drop on December 31. This yearly tradition takes place in Pier Park, when an 800-pound glowing beach ball descends to signify the New Year. Earlier in the evening a family ball drop, consisting of 10,000 inflatable beach balls, is dropped from the sky, and there’s a fireworks display.

• Mardi Gras Festivals fill three weekends in Panama City Beach. Block parties, live music, arts and crafts and bead throwing. 2013 Mardi Gras parades can be found around town on January 25-26, February 1-2 and February 8-9.

• The annual Seabreeze Jazz Festival draws music lovers near and far for the sounds of contemporary jazz. More than 20,000 fans come for the award-winning festival (named “Top 10 Jazz Festival in the USA” by JAZZIZ Magazine). April 17-21, 2013.

Ask The Experts www.visitpanamacitybeach.com www.pcbgolftravel.com www.visitflorida.com Kids go nuts over Shipwreck Island Waterpark. The tropical themed waterpark includes curving flumes, rapid river rides, a wave pool and a lazy river.

Take part in our popular Winter Guest Program and Activities December through February!

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Photos South Walton TDC

South Walton

Head Back To A Simpler Time In South Walton A collection of 15 unique beach neighbourhoods makes up the region of South Walton.

Sprinkled along a 43-kilometre stretch of the Gulf of Mexico, they are known for their fine, white sand and small, upscale communities. Whether old or new, the towns all have a timeless feel – many visitors choose this area for its uncomplicated, quiet and mellow vibe. In South Walton, time spent at the beach is the essence of a carefree time when life was simpler.

South Walton is especially popular with northern visitors seeking sun and warm air in the winter, as well as families at Christmas, spring break and the summer months. The majority of properties are condominiums, townhouses and houses, making it a good choice for a multigenerational get together and group getaways. There are very few chain properties, and high rises are few and far between.

The Original Florida BeachStyle Communities The older communities of Grayton Beach, Sandestin, Miramar, Seacrest and Seagrove are classic Florida towns circa the 1920s, some with narrow laneways awash with white picket fences and small weathered clapboard cottages (height restrictions keep all new development to four storeys). These neighbourhoods ooze charm and feel like their roots are planted deep.

Discover The New Urbanist Communities South Walton is an innovative study in urban planning.

Beginning in the mid-1980s, a handful of new residential communities made it from the drawing boards of some very forward thinking architects to this streetscape along the Gulf. Coined “new urbanism,” the design goal was a small town feel, with bike pathways and green space, and all major streets leading to the area’s trademark sparkling white beaches.

But each of the new urbanist communities is stamped with its own unique layout, colour and feel. Here’s a sampler: The hand that designed the neighbourhood of Alys Beach was all about green practices and sustainability.

The bleached white buildings reflect the rays of the sun, reducing the need for air conditioning. Pretty cobblestone streets allow runoff to filter into the groundwater slowly and naturally. Homes are oriented to maximize the effects of cooling breezes off the Gulf. Public greenery is indigenous plants, and the entire development backs onto an eight-hectare preserved wetland.

Remember Jim Carrey on the big screen in The Truman Show? The movie about a small town that was too good to be true was filmed at Seaside, the first of the new style, planned communities. The tidy streets of Seaside are filled with cottages and homes that look like they’ve been handed down across the generations; but they’re actually really teenagers, over-the-top wholesome with bike paths and skateboard paths for kids. Every Seaside home has a white picket fence, but no two on any one street can be the same. Almost all the homes are rental properties and appeal to families, group getaways and those with the beach and sunset mindset.

Named for the dune rosemary plant, Rosemary Beach’s Dutch and West Indies-inspired architecture spells “beach time.” Muted colours of nature, Bermuda shutters and wide second-floor porches add to the relaxed fe el. The rental units here are popular with families.

In South Walton, time spent at the beach is the essence of a carefree time when life was simpler.

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South Walton

This stretch of the Florida Panhandle has the largest concentration of rare coastal dune lakes in the world.

Don a lifejacket and take a two-hour guided kayak tour; the wildlife watching is spectacular.

Alys Beach is all about green practices and sustainability, from white buildings that reflect the sun, to cobblestone streets that allow runoff to filter into the groundwater slowly and naturally.

Fits Every Need At the far west end of South Walton, the expansive Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort offers every rental configuration imaginable: over 1,300 condos, villas, town homes and hotel rooms, all laid out in 30 resort neighbourhoods on 969 hectares. Resort units come equipped with full kitchen facilities (ranging from microwaves and mini fridges in the hotel rooms to fully stocked kitchen and dining areas in the luxurious villas and town homes), so keeping the meal budget under control is easy. The resort’s pedestrian-friendly Village of Baytowne Wharf has a variety of restaurants from takeout to upscale dining.

Besides splashing in the water along the resort’s 11 kilometres of white sand beachfront, there are

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complimentary kayaks, canoes and boogie boards, bicycles, a fitness centre and spa, 72 holes of golf on four championship courses, 15 tennis courts, 19 swimming pools, a 113-slip marina and a certified children’s program.

Explore The Outdoors South Walton is blessed with thousands of hectares of protected land, including the spectacular Grayton Beach State Park. The park provides hours – and days – of enjoyment for outdoor enthusiasts.

“This is primarily a fragile dune environment,” explains Murray Balkcom, a guide with Walco Eco Tours. “The park includes Western Lake, one of the unique coastal dune lakes. One of the things that makes these lakes unique is what lives there – a little bit of everything, because the brackish level of the water is always changing.”

The park’s dune trail meanders along the secondary dunes (those at a slightly higher elevation, backing onto the upland pine forest, resulting in a more diverse ecosystem). The plants that line the pathway are generally scrubby – naturally pruned back by the harsh salt spray coming off the Gulf.

The park is also part of The Great Florida Birding Trail.

Where the wind and water allow, an oasis of small trees has sprung up. Sand live oak, Southern magnolias and hardy saw palmettos are what Balkcom calls “dune builders” and provide nesting grounds for migratory birds like savannah sparrow, eastern towhee and orange-crowned warbler.

Loaner binoculars and field guides are available.

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South Walton • F orty per cent of Walton County’s land is preserved for nature, including five state-owned swaths of pristine coastal wilderness.

• T he communities and neighbourhoods are designed for walking – everything is on a pedestrian scale and laid out in a way that promotes friendly exchanges between neighbours.

•B icycles are a way of life here. The Timpoochee Trail, a 30-kilometre paved bike path, runs along the Gulf of Mexico, linking the three waterfront state parks and tying together a dozen of South Walton’s scenic beach communities.

• S outh Walton boasts a thriving arts scene with small galleries and artisan-owned boutiques, stocked chocka-block with artistic treasures. Hunt out the Bayou Arts Center as well as artist colonies at Gulf Place, Ruskin Park in Seaside and Shops of Grayton.

• T here are nearly 60 public beach access points along the 43-kilometre stretch.

• T he resort of WaterColor Inn & Resort in Santa Rosa Beach is the home of YOLO Board Adventures, the company to bring stand-up paddleboarding into the mainstream. The area’s 15 natural lakes are ripe for exploration by YOLO board or kayak and you can rent the equipment right at YOLO Board Adventures on Western Lake.

• J ust north of Choctawhatchee Bay, the innovative, LEEDcertified E.O. Wilson Biophilia Center offers visitors the unique opportunity to learn about native creatures like birds of prey and gopher tortoises, with presentations by the centre’s wildlife experts.

Forty per cent of Walton County’s land is preserved for nature, including five stateowned swaths of pristine coastal wilderness. Put on a pair of hiking shoes and explore the trails through protected lands.

“In a harsh environment like the dunes,” he says, “this shade invites in a lot of plant and animal life.”

Only In South Walton • T his stretch of the Florida Panhandle has the largest concentration of rare coastal dune lakes in the world.

Coastal dune lakes are formed when the wind pushes the sand dunes up against the water, creating a dam. The shallow lake water is usually open to the Gulf, allowing salt water and fresh water to continuously exchange and flush out the lake, creating distinctive ecosystems. Only five areas in the world are known to have coastal dune lakes.

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Good Eats Breakfast: The Donut Hole in Santa Rosa Beach, bakes a wide variety of freshly made donuts, with popular flavours including red velvet and key lime pie. Or choose pancakes, omelets or French toast. Portions are generous and prices are reasonable.

Lunch: In old-style Grayton Beach, The Red Bar is a colourful spot known for crab cakes topped with a tangy citrus beure blanc, the fried shrimp po’boy, frosty drinks and live music that rocks the place most evenings. In the newer community of Seaside, a collection of funky Airstream trailers house affordable takeout eateries serving barbecue, gourmet hot dogs topped with homemade chili and customized fruit smoothies.

Dinner: Can’t seem to get your fill of seafood even though you’re right next to the source? The Marina Bar & Grill at Sandestin Resort’s Baytowne Marina is known for the Marina Seafood Basket, a platter full of crispy shrimp, crab cakes and fried oysters. The Grill is a great place to watch the sun set over the Choctawhatchee Bay – to celebrate the end of each day, the staff sounds a cannon.

5 Ways To Chill 1. G olf beside the natural dunes at the Tom Fazio-designed course at Camp Creek Golf Club. Awarded distinction as a Certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary, Camp Creek is

CT SEPTEMBER NW FL

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www.visitsouthwalton.com

ensure ‘live’ area does not go beyond .25” of the trim. Notify client that cut off could occur. o beyond .25” of the trim. Notify client that cut off could occur.

In old-style Grayton Beach, The Red Bar is a colourful spot known for crab cakes topped with a tangy citrus beure blanc, the fried shrimp po’boy, frosty drinks and live music that rocks the place most evenings.

one of the most environmentally friendly courses in the southeastern U.S. The certification means the course design and maintenance adheres to stringent standards designed to help preserve and enhance the environmental quality of the landscape.

2. These beaches have powder soft sand made for walking. Take a long stroll along the sand at sunset.

3. Put on a pair of hiking shoes and explore the trails through 8,080 hectares of protected state forests.

4. If a second wedding is on the horizon, consider a beach wedding in South Walton. Most of the beaches are managed, but a wedding planner can help navigate the formalities and fees (under 50 people and it’s free).

5. Don a lifejacket and take a two-hour guided kayak tour of the area’s rare coastal dune lakes. It’s easy to paddle and the wildlife watching is spectacular.

Bring binoculars.

5 Things For Families 1. Bike the paved Timpoochee Trail, stopping at beaches along the way for a swim.

2. Build sandcastles at the beach, then watch the high tide wash them away. Come back the next day and start all over again.

3. Go for ice cream to Heavenly Shortcakes in Seaside. Take your picture with the giant triple-scoop ice cream cone out front.

4. Escape the trappings of telephone, TV and the Internet and rent an “unplugged” cabin for an overnight stay at Grayton Beach State Park. Book early, cabins sell out fast.

5. Pick a starry night and have a family bonfire on the beach (fire permit and fee required).

Locals Say • T he Artists at Gulf Place Art Co-op in Santa Rosa Beach hosts the Wine Walkabout, a wine tasting with live music held on the third Thursday of every month.

• Stake your spot on the rooftop deck at Bud & Alley’s, order a glass of chilled Pinot Grigio and watch the sun pop below the horizon

while the sky turns pink and purple.

•H ave your kids try the zipline at The Village of Baytowne Wharf in Sandestin’s giant playground.

•C atch up on world news at Fonville Press in Alys Beach. The international newsstand is known for its variety of periodicals. Settle into a chair in the courtyard with a good read and a steaming mug of cappuccino.

Most Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings, Fonville showcases some of the area’s best musical performers. On the second Friday of each month Fonville hosts the ever-popular Trivia Night.

• E njoy a concert at one of the free musical performances at the Seaside Amphitheater, or Sandestin’s Village of Baytowne Wharf.

• Take a guided horseback trip with Gulfside Trail Rides through Point Washington State Forest, a 6,060-hectare preserve with trails galore for hiking, biking and riding.

Mark Your Calendar • Taste of the Beach is a three-day wine lovers’ gala where guests choose to attend any or all of five individually priced events, each showcasing an assortment of premium vintners. First week in November.

• The 30A Songwriters Festival features three nights and two days of musical performances by industry greats, rising song-writing stars and local talent. January 2013.

• Every President’s Day, the Village of Baytowne Wharf in the Sandestin Beach and Golf Resort hosts the annual Sandestin Gumbo Festival. Pots of gumbo paired with live Cajun music make for a spicy time.

February.

• ArtsQuest Fine Arts and Music Festival showcases over 130 international exhibiting artists, live music on three stages, arts activities for children, interactive public art projects led by visiting artists, and art demos led by local artists and art groups. Spring 2013.

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Pensacola

Pensacola Boasts Old World Southern Charm & Stunning Beaches

The rich history of the Pensacola Bay Area – Pensacola, Pensacola Beach and Perdido Key, at the far west of the Florida Panhandle – dates back more than 450 years to the first major settlement attempt in the U.S. (1559). With its wrought iron balconies, charming streets lined with local boutiques, art galleries and restaurants, downtown Pensacola possesses an Old World feel just steps away from stunning sugar-white sand beaches.

The Pensacola Bay Area is famous for the protected Gulf Islands National Seashore, the largest tract of protected seashore in the U.S. Encompassing Pensacola Beach and Perdido Key, this pristine stretch of beach is a hotspot for biodiversity, offering unique opportunities for snorkeling, bird watching, canoeing, kayaking, exploring historic sites along the way or simply taking in breathtaking views.

Due to its abundance of fresh Gulf Coast seafood and international influences, the Pensacola Bay Area is infused with a very agreeable food obsession. Sandwich board signs for crawfish and gumbo spring up along

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the sidewalks, luring hungry drivers into roadside diners.

Shrimp boats bob along the dockside. Somewhere, always, there is a pot of shrimp on the boil.

Delve Into History Explore the city streets. The streets of downtown Pensacola are lined with historic brick buildings, many of which have a New Orleans-like feel. Street signs like La Rua, Gonzalez and Alcaniz speak to a Spanish past, there’s a church on almost every corner, and red, pink and white azaleas burst from prize-winning gardens. St. Michael’s

Photos Pensacola Bay Area CVB

The T.T. Wentworth, Jr. Florida State Museum proudly displays the cementing of Pensacola’s pivotal role in Northwest Florida history through four floors of self-guided exhibits.

The Pensacola Bay Area is famous for the protected Gulf Islands National Seashore, the largest tract of protected seashore in the U.S.

Cemetery is a quick stroll through local history – with markers dating back to the 1700s, it is the oldest in Florida. History is richly layered in Pensacola, from the ghosts of explorers and settlers to the pride along modern boulevards.

Walk a living museum. Pensacola claims it is “America’s first settlement,” established in 1559 by the Spanish explorer Don Tristan de Luna who was on the hunt to the New World for gold, silver and lucrative trade routes. Within weeks of landing, his expedition was pummelled by a hurricane, sinking seven of its 11 ships and destroying most of the life-sustaining supplies. Within two years, the colonists cut their losses, abandoned the site, and the flipping of the land and the strategic waters began in earnest. Five flags have flown over the city – Spanish, French, British, the Confederacy and the United States – and the story of each is told at the Historic Pensacola Village, a living museum of local history.

“We give you 450 years of history, starting at the de Luna landing and wrapping up in the early 20th century,” says museum historian Shana Marcey. In the museum’s one square city block there are 13 historic buildings included in a guided tour and an additional five historic buildings that are self-guided. Each of the buildings and the costumed interpreters brings to life a specific theme or period of time in the development of Pensacola.

Get grounded in the history. Immediately next door to the village, the T.T. Wentworth, Jr. Florida State Museum (admission free, four floors of self-guided exhibits) proudly displays the flip-flop of Pensacola, known as the City of Five Flags, under European flags and the cementing of its pivotal role in Northwest Florida history.

Centuries before Pensacola became a tourist destination, European superpowers were elbowing each other out of the way to rule these strategic waters. The region changed hands eight times in the space of 120 years as the Spanish, the French, the English – and finally, the United States of America – scrambled to control a bay broad and deep enough to shelter a fleet of warships. In the times of the conquests of the Americas, whomever held Pensacola Bay had a stronghold on defending the territories of the New World.

Getting a bird’s-eye view. It’s 177 steps to the top of the historic Pensacola Lighthouse, over a century-and-ahalf old and one of the tallest brick lighthouses in America.

Now on the National Register of Historic Places, the flashing white light still blinks at 20-second intervals as a navigational aid to watercraft in the bay. They say that the lighthouse keeper’s quarters are haunted…full moon and ghost tours are offered throughout the year for those not easily intimidated.

Defending the bay. “For the past 500 years, European powers have been sailing into Pensacola Bay,” explains Beckie Mims, a National Park Service ranger at Gulf Islands National Seashore. “When the U.S. took the territory in 1821, they decided to build defensive forts to protect the waters.”

One of these 19th-century fortifications, Fort Barrancas, was positioned to blast cannonballs at enemy ships 95 Canadian Traveller September 2012 NW Florida

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Pensacola

Kayaking the beginning of the Florida Paddling Trail is just one of many free things to do in Pensacola.

Others include visiting local museums and festivals like Mardi Gras and the Pensacola Seafood Festival.

More than 150 meticulouslyrestored aircraft are on display at any one time at the National Naval Aviation Museum.

Free walking tours are available with retired military volunteers.

entering the harbour, although shots were never fired prior to the Civil War. Deactivated after the Second World War, weeds covered the fort until the National Park Service took ownership and began an extensive restoration in the 1970s.

Now a National Park site, the kite-shaped, brick fortress once housed cannons and rifles behind metre-thick walls. When under siege, more than 500 men lived in tent encampments in the surrounding fields. In times of peace, just two lonely souls held down the sprawling, waterside property.

Stand in awe at the National Naval Aviation Museum. The number two attraction after the fantastic stretches of white beach is the National Naval Aviation Museum, one of the largest air and space museums in the world. More than 150 meticulously-restored aircraft are on display at any one time. Free walking tours are available with retired military volunteers. Highlights are the Blue Angels aerobatic team display and a peek into the museum’s restoration wing.

Explore the outdoors. Separated from the bustling urban area of the city, Pensacola Beach sits on a long spit of land known as Santa Rosa Island, one of the world’s longest barrier islands, and encompasses part of the Gulf Islands National Seashore. Dune camping, kite flying, surf fishing and anything to do on, in or above the water is popular here.

Johnson Beach on Perdido Key is perfect for a swim, playing in the waves, snorkelling, fishing, beachcombing or biking and hiking.

Good Eats Breakfast: It’s more brunch than breakfast, but you can find a plate full of Southern culinary zip when you order grits à ya ya at The Fish House – spicy Gulf jumbo shrimp top a mix of sautéed spinach, Portobello mushrooms, applewood-smoked bacon, garlic, shallots and cream, all

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served over a heaping bed of smoked Gouda cheese grits.

If you want to head to the beach for a picnic brunch, they’ll even wrap it up for takeout.

Lunch: You can jump from the shrimp boat into the side door of Joe Patti’s Seafood Market, one of the largest fresh seafood markets in the whole Southeast and a Pensacola institution. Locals in-the-know arrive with empty coolers, stocking up on seafood for the week. For a great lunch, shop at Joe’s for a loaf of oven-warm bread and a bucket of freshly-steamed Gulf shrimp. The perfect picnic spot is just down the road at Bartram Park.

Dinner: How about a break from seafood? McGuire’s Irish Pub is a local landmark known for the two-dozen varieties of enormous Black Angus burgers that range from the mainstream (Extra Sharp Cheddar Steak Burger) to the unusual (Hot Fudge Burger or the famous Terrible Garbage Burger that is garnished with every topping available, from peanut butter to blue cheese). The ambience is pure Irish pub, with small booths, lots of action and a cosy décor.

6 Ways To Explore 1. Find the waterfront statue and fountain at Plaza de Luna, marking the historic 1559 landing of the Spanish explorer, Tristan de Luna.

2. Take a break from the heat in the Museum of Commerce at the Historic Pensacola Village. The reconstructed streetscape replicates turn of the century businesses like the newspaper office, barbershop and leather and harness shop.

3. F ind the original anchor from one of the de Luna expedition ships, on display at the T.T. Wentworth, Jr. Museum.

4. Downtown Pensacola is home to the “big five in the arts” – ballet, opera, symphony, theatre and an accredited museum of the visual arts.

5. While not officially recorded, a harmless shot fired on the drawbridge of Fort Barrancas on the night of January 8, 1861 is sometimes considered the first shot in the U.S. Civil War. 6. Head for an adult drink at the famous Flora-Bama Lounge, straddling the state lines between Florida and Alabama, right on the Gulf of Mexico.

6 Things For Kids To Do 1. Order a frosty mug of McGuire’s Irish Pub’s house-brewed root beer made from natural sassafras root. Want to rev them up? Let them know there are more than a million one-dollar bills stapled to the ceiling. But it’s definitely hands off!

Order up a plate full of Southern culinary zip with grits à ya ya at The Fish House – spicy Gulf jumbo shrimp top a mix of sautéed vegetables, bacon and cream, heaped on a bed of smoked Gouda cheese grits.

2. Climb to the top of the Pensacola Lighthouse for fantastic views of the Pensacola Pass. Then drop the hint that the lighthouse is haunted – even SyFy Ghost Hunters thinks so, cementing its reputation as “one of the most haunted lighthouses in America.”

3. Explore the tunnels behind metre-thick walls at Fort Barrancas. At one time the fort housed 400 state of the art cannons, built largely by American forces as a deterrent to invaders.

4. Get a crick in your neck from gazing overhead at the National Naval Aviation Museum’s magnificent display of aircraft. Bonus: it’s family-friendly and free.

5. Sign up kids for the new National Flight Academy’s five or three-day immersive Ambition AIR program (for students grades 7 through 12). Camp days are filled with hands-on missions and virtual simulators to learn science, technology, engineering and math concepts.

6. The shallow waters at Quietwater Beach make it the perfect spot for families with small children.

Pets Welcome The fenced, off-leash Bayview Dog Park combines a wide stretch of beach and the waters of Bayou Texar (the doggie swim area is clearly marked by buoys). It’s a popular spot with both locals and visitors. The well equipped park has a shower to rinse off saltwater-soaked dogs, a shaded canopy area with picnic tables for the humans, and a large grassy area marked by a whimsical, oversized red fire hydrant.

Two other Pensacola parks have off-leash areas: the Shoreline Bark Trail in Gulf Breeze and Roger Scott Dog Park near the Pensacola airport, but Bayview Dog Park is the only one with an off-leash swimming area.

Locals Say

• F or something completely different at New Year’s, head to downtown Pensacola for the Annual Pelican Drop, when a three-metre, half-ton illuminated pelican is dropped 30 metres at the stroke of midnight.

10 Free Things To Do 1. Visit the National Naval Aviation Museum.

2. Learn about history at the T.T. Wentworth, Jr. Florida State Museum.

3. Join one of the ranger-led programs at the Gulf Islands National Seashore.

4. Watch the world-famous Blue Angels practice.

5. Search for seashells and sand dollars at Pensacola Beach and Perdido Key. 6. Follow the AfricanAmerican Heritage Trail to sites like St. Michael’s Cemetery, Fort Pickens and Johnson Beach.

7. Tour the battery, parade grounds and tunnels at Fort Barrancas.

• I f you’re travelling with a group, call Joe Patti’s Seafood Market to arrange a behind-the-scenes tour of how seafood is transferred off the shrimp boats and stored in the enormous ice room.

8. Get that Gulf-vibe at the Pensacola Seafood Festival.

• S targaze away from the city lights along the dunes at Gulf Islands National Seashore, Johnson Beach or Pensacola Beach. The soft, powdery sand is nicknamed “singing sand” because it squeaks underfoot.

10. K ayak the beginning of the Florida Paddling Trail.

• S ome people have reported the ghostly image of a Confederate soldier in the tunnels of Fort Barrancas.

•V isitors can watch the world-famous Navy’s Blue Angels practice their awe-inspiring aerial manoeuvres on Tuesday and Wednesday mornings from March through November, followed by a chance to meet the pilots. Bring hat and sunscreen.

9. Catch beads at an area Mardi Gras parade.

Ask The Experts www.visitpensacola.com www.visitflorida.com

97 Canadian Traveller September 2012 NW Florida

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Emerald Coast

THE Sun Always Shines & The Fish Always Bite On The Emerald Coast

The towns of Destin, Fort Walton Beach and Okaloosa Island anchor the busy 39-kilometre stretch of coastline known as the Emerald Coast. The museums, condos and fishing attract snowbirds by the boatload, while families come for the myriad of high octane attractions to keep kids busy.

The coastline’s trademark sugar-white sand is made up of pure Appalachian quartz and stays cool even in the heat of summer. It’s that same high quartz content that gives the water its signature emerald green colour by reflecting sunlight back up through the surf.

In the mid-1800s, Choctawhatchee Bay’s claim to fame was the birth of charter fishing in the Panhandle region.

With that launch, a healthy charter fishing industry was off and running and the area never looked back. In recent days, charter fishing in Destin and Fort Walton Beach continues to be a huge draw for visitors – Destin Harbor is home to the largest fishing charter fleet in Florida.

The big draw on the Emerald Coast is the water – kayaking, boating, swimming, diving and kiteboarding. And fishing. Especially fishing. The town of Destin is officially known as “The World’s Luckiest Fishing Village” and the salt and fresh waters lure anglers who are eager to toss their lines into the clear, warm depths and try their luck.

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5 Ways To Cast A Line 1. C harter a pontoon boat for some back bay fishing in the saltwater of Choctawhatchee Bay. The bay waters are known for Spanish mackerel, redfish, flounder and speckled trout.

2. Pier fishing from the bridges is popular, especially for visitors who are not travelling with their boats. Casting from small jetties and bridges hooks speckled trout, white snapper and redfish.

3. Grab your gear and join the Destin Fishing Rodeo. Signup is free to anglers fishing aboard a registered boat in the Rodeo.

4. T ry some offshore fishing. Just a short boat ride from the coast, the offshore shelf drops to depths of over 30 metres. Troll for mahi mahi, tuna, sailfish and wahoo.

5. Do a little after-hours fishing from the Okaloosa Island Fishing Pier in Fort Walton Beach. The 385-metre long pier is lit for night fishing. It’s a favourite spot where the locals

Photos Emerald Coast CVB

The coastline’s trademark sugar-white sand stays cool even in the heat of summer and gives the water its signature emerald green colour by reflecting sunlight back up through the surf.

catch tarpon, tuna and king mackerel. Bait and tackle rentals are available and no fishing licence is required.

Discover The Museums Air Force Armament Museum. “It looks just like something from Star Wars,” says Jack Dorr, a Vietnam veteran and volunteer tour guide at the Air Force Armament Museum. “This SR-71 Blackbird is the most popular plane here because it’s the fastest one and the most space age looking one. Everyone comes out and says oohh and ahh.”

The museum is filled to the rafters with impressive warbird aircraft and a display of weapons and intelligencegathering technology such as seismic reconnaissance sensors that are able to listen in and track movements from a great distance away.

Another popular display is the Airborne Battlefield Command Control Center, a multi control airborne bank that was loaded lock, stock and barrel into the back of a military aircraft.

Destin History & Fishing Museum. “The Gulf fisheries are some of the most productive in the world,” says Miss Kathy at the Destin History & Fishing Museum. Born and

raised on the back bay, her ancestors settled in the area immediately after the U.S. Civil War. “For the first 100 years there were just eight original families here. Then the first bridge was built in 1935 and the rest of the world discovered Destin.”

It’s been 175 years since seafarer Leonard Destin saw the potential for a fishing industry in Destin’s Choctawhatchee Bay. What started with simple handlines and seine nets has exploded to the largest charter fishing industry in the state. The tale of “The World’s Luckiest Fishing Village” is played out at the Destin History & Fishing Museum, including maps, historical photos, rods and reels and fishing equipment from lures to electronic fish finders.

Indian Temple Mound Museum. A time capsule of information, the large shell mound in downtown Fort Walton Beach is thought to be one of the largest humanmade prehistoric earthworks constructed on saltwater.

Considered a sacred site by Native Americans, the handbuilt mound is now a protected archaeological site.

The truncated pyramid made from sand, shells and clay was created as a political and religious centre and was originally the base for a temple building, a spot that was the focal point for spiritual ceremonies. At the time, 99 Canadian Traveller September 2012 NW Florida

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Emerald Coast

Escapees from the northern chill like to stroll HarborWalk Village’s collection of shops, fishing charters, bars and restaurants along the Destin waterfront.

The big draw on the Emerald Coast is the water – kayaking, boating, swimming, diving, kiteboarding – and fishing from places like the Okaloosa Island pier. Destin is officially known as “The World’s Luckiest Fishing Village”.

it would have dominated the landscape and was the centre of a Native American settlement, circa 700-1500.

A small building houses artifacts from the early Native American culture, including pottery, spearpoints, jewellery and tools made from shells and stone.

Good Eats Breakfast: Snowbirds love, love, love the Donut Hole in Destin. As soon as you step inside, the addictive sweetness of fresh baking fills the air as all of the warm, doughy creations are made on site. The glass display cases with rows of donuts, cruellers and muffins fill just as fast as they sell them.

Lunch: Bathing suits are okay-fine at The Back Porch Seafood & Oyster House in

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Destin. The Back Porch’s initial claim to fame is the invention of the amberjack sandwich, served chargrilled, bronzed, blackened or fried. Coupled with a glass of “The Ultimate Back Porch Punch” and a view of the turquoise Gulf waters, it’s the perfect way to break up a day.

Dinner: There’s fresh and then there’s fresh right off the dock. AJ’s Seafood & Oyster Bar is right on the docks at Destin’s historic inner harbour, so the catch doesn’t get any fresher. Start with fried blue crab claws served with AJ’s signature Key lime sauce. For a main, put away the calorie counter and order the N’awlins shrimp, served with traditional New Orleans seasonings and swimming in a pool of melted butter. There’s dancing upstairs at the Bimini Bar, named one of the Top 100 Nightclubs in America, where live music plays seven days a week, from 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. AJ’s is also the weigh-in spot for the Fishing Rodeo tournament, so the crowds can get large and spirited.

5 Ways To Chill 1. Escapees from the northern chill like to stroll HarborWalk Village’s collection of shops, fishing charters, bars and restaurants along the Destin waterfront.

2. Visit the Air Force Armament Museum on Eglin Air Force Base, just outside Destin. There are more than 25 planes on display, including a P51 Mustang, the renowned Second World War Allied fighter and the titanium SR-71 Blackbird, the reconnaissance plane that flew at Mach 3.2 from New York City to San Francisco in under an hour.

3. Over a dozen championship greens have long, oak-lined fairways, lush greens and challenging water hazards to satisfy golfers from beginner to pro.

4. The mysterious 100-fathom curve – the dropoff marking the beginning of blue water, leaving behind the shallows

Every child who enters a fish in the Destin Fishing Rodeo that weighs onepound or more gets a rod and reel and a certificate suitable for framing.

of the coastal region – is close to shore along the Emerald Coast, making for excellent snorkelling and scuba diving opportunities without having to travel far offshore by boat. The shallow waters are great spots to don a mask and snorkel and spot loggerhead sea turtles, giant manta rays and scores of brightly coloured tropical fish.

5. Pack a picnic and sign up for a sunset cruise where the setting sun and the playful dolphins share centre stage.

5 Things For Families 1. If the kids have energy to burn, HarborWalk Village waterfront may have everything you need – aqua adventures, dolphin cruises, weekly fireworks and seasonal festivals. If they’re in the mood for communing with nature, you can grab a rental kayak and paddle out past the Destin Bridge to Crab Island for a little solitude.

2. Every child who enters a fish in the Destin Fishing Rodeo that weighs one-pound or more gets a rod and reel and a certificate suitable for framing. Fishing on the pier bridge jetty is free for anglers 14 years and younger (anglers over 15 pay a small fee).

3. Visit the Camp Walton Schoolhouse for a blast to the past when one-room schoolhouses were the norm. In the early 1900s there were no bridges and no roads throughout the area. Students had to get to class on time by boat.

4. Scout for dolphins. Either rent a pontoon boat and find a swimming spot or book a seat on a glassbottom boat for a dolphin cruise.

5. Feed the penguins and the stingrays at the Gulfarium Marine Adventure Park.

Gulfarium is the second oldest marine park in the U.S. and is known for dolphin and sea lion shows as well as “talks with the trainers” who handle the park’s otters and reptiles.

The Perfect Day • S tart lazy with a swim in the Gulf while you map out the rest of the day.

• Spread a blanket on the dune beach at the shallows along the Santa Rosa Sound and Destin Harbor for a front row seat at spying some dolphins at play.

• Head into town for a basket of peel-n-eat Gulf shrimp or a platter of hand-breaded fried oysters. The seafood is as fresh here as anywhere, so indulge, indulge, indulge.

• A short nap seems in order to recharge for an afternoon back on the water.

• Bundle up your rod and tackle (or rent some if needed) and join in a fishing expedition with one of the many Emerald Coast outfitters.

• Tie your boat up behind AJ’s Seafood & Oyster Bar for dinner and have the restaurant’s chef cook up your catch.

• Just in time, hop on a charter for a sunset cruise – it’s the perfect way to end the day.

Locals Say • If you can’t make it down for the Destin Annual Fishing Rodeo, you can still watch the weigh-in action beamed live by webcam. The entire month of October is dedicated to the Rodeo, with over 100 categories and 35 species of fish drawing thousands from around the world. An online webcam beams the weigh-ins live.

• The displays at the Destin History & Fishing Museum are a real treasure trove. Included among the artifacts: a rod and reel once used by author Ernest Hemingway.

• Over the summer, HarborWalk Village has fireworks every Thursday over the Destin Harbor and on Saturdays there’s Rock the Docks featuring free concerts.

• Take a stroll along the newly expanded Destin boardwalk. The boardwalk now connects HarborWalk Village to many 101 Canadian Traveller September 2012 NW Florida

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Emerald Coast Over a dozen championship greens have long, oak-lined fairways, lush greens and challenging water hazards to satisfy golfers from beginner to pro.

• • • •

other restaurants and shops along the harbour. You can walk along the water, see all of the charter and fishing boats, and stop for a bite to eat or grab a drink.

F resh fish! Local favourites are grouper, flounder, amberjack and red snapper. Most restaurants serve up freshly shucked raw oysters.

F or a spectacular view, make the drive over the Marler Bridge eastbound from Okaloosa Island, heading into Destin.

Hang out at Crab Island on the weekends. Known as Crab Island by the locals, it’s actually a sandbar next to the Marler Bridge where people anchor their boats and chill.

Along Santa Rosa Boulevard there are seven public beach access points with free parking and bathrooms.

Mark Your Calendar • D estin History & Fishing Museum’s Annual Gumbo Contest. Free admission to the museum on the day of the contest and after judging the gumbo is sold for the tasting. January.

• A nnual HarborWalk Marina Destin Cobia Tournament attracts hundreds of anglers. March.

• A nnual Destin Seafood Festival. Delicious seafood, live music, and arts and crafts kick off the Destin Fishing Rodeo. September.

• D estin Fishing Rodeo. A month long event of wall-towall fishing considered by many to be the ultimate tournament for saltwater anglers. Daily weigh-ins are free and open to the public. October.

• Destin Festival of the Arts. A juried fine arts show displaying work from artists around the country. October.

Ask The Experts www.emeraldcoastfl.com www.destinfishingrodeo.org www.visitflorida.com

Gulfarium is the second oldest marine park in the U.S. and is known for dolphin and sea lion shows as well as “talks with the trainers” who handle the park’s otters and reptiles.

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